STILL WINES RUN DEEP English still wine used to be the poor relation but it’s fast catching up its sparkling sister Words | Adrian Mourby
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N RECENT YEARS British sparkling wine has taken off so impressively that French vineyards are now investing in the productive Sussex countryside. Yet English still wines have remained at the Cinderella end of the market, dowdy and overlooked. In all fairness the quality of English still wine has until recently been variable. In the early, pioneer years (our first modern vineyards were only planted in the late 60s and early 70s) there was an over-reliance on hardy Muller Thurgau and Bacchus, German grapes which grew well in English soils and could cope with the English climate, but produced still wines with a rather sour taste. Over the last ten years, however, the quality of English wines has generally improved, with French sparkling wine grapes like Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and
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Pinot Meunier proving that they can thrive in southern England. Still wines have followed where their sparkling siblings led with blended wine a particular success. Climate change allied with the work of Plumpton College’s new Wine Research Facility in Sussex has meant that southern England is beginning to challenge even its French neighbours for both still and sparkling wines. Currently there are over 500 vineyards in England but the output is still not huge. Many vineyards and wineries sell by internet and many have their own restaurants and hotels to supply so English wines do not have a major supermarket presence as yet. But that’s a very good reason to go and visit the vineyards. Here are six still wine producers who will make you welcome. à
