British Travel Journal | Summer 2019 by Contista Media

B R I T I S H T R AV E L JOURNAL SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02

CITY | COAST | COUNTRY

BritishTravelJournal.com

sea to shore

GOURMAND’S TOUR OF CORNWALL WITH NATHAN OUTLAW

WIN

a luxury short break staying on a floating hotel!

weekend adventure

£5.00

48 HOURS AT CORNWALL'S MOST FAMOUS SURF DESTINATION, FISTRAL BEACH, NEWQUAY

blue sky thinking

DISCOVER WORLD-CLASS OPEN AIR THEATRE LOCATIONS FROM CLIFF TOPS TO ABBEY RUINS

EVENTS ■ IDYLLIC DESTINATIONS ■ MICHELIN STAR RESTAURANTS ■ LUXURY HOTELS ■ NEW EXPERIENCES

WHICH IS THE MOST ICONIC HOTEL IN THE UK? #Siblingrivalry

CHEWTON GLEN, HAMPSHIRE

CLIVEDEN HOUSE, BERKSHIRE

THE LYGON ARMS, COTSWOLDS

11 CADOGAN GARDENS, LONDON

ICONICLUXURYHOTELS.COM

E DI TO R ’ S L E T T E R CONTRIBUTIONS

BRITISH

TRAVEL

J O U R N A L

BritishTravelJournal.com EDITORS E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F Jessica Way F E A T U R E S E D I T O R Samantha Rutherford CHIEF SUB-EDITOR

Angela Harding

EXPERT CONTRIBUTORS F O O D & D R I N K Chantal Borciani A R T S & C U LT U R E Melanie Abrams H I S T O R Y & H E R I TA G E Robin Glover S H O P P I N G & L I F E S T Y L E Emma Johnson D E S T I N A T I O N S P E C I A L I S T Adrian Mourby T R A V E L & A D V E N T U R E Max Wooldridge A U T H E N T I C T O U R S Jules Mittra O U T D O O R S & E V E N T S Felix Rowe FRONT COVER IMAGE The Headland Hotel Fistral Beach, Newquay, Cornwall headlandhotel.co.uk PUBLISHED BY

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WELCOME

OORAY IT’S THE SUMMER! – and all I want to do is travel – I want to see as much of the British Isles in this glistening sunshine as I possibly can, and with tourism in the UK rising rapidly from previous years, it seems I am not alone. While it’s always fun to take time out exploring our stunning landscapes and visiting our cultural attractions, when the weather is warm, it adds so much more to the enjoyment of the experience. Like touring the new South West Coast 300 driving route in Scotland for example – watching a beautiful sunset each evening, stopping off to enjoy ice-cream, and walking barefoot along the beach, p48. Our food columnist, Chantal Borciani, has been enjoying the coast too, with my second favourite ‘s’ of the summer, ‘seafood’ – Nathan Outlaw takes her on a gourmand’s tour of the spectacular Cornish coastline, p30. I was lucky enough to visit the wonderful new Machrie Hotel on the Isle of Islay, which you can read more about in our ‘In search of Scotch Whisky’ feature, p42. Heading further inland, in anticipation of the Championships, the Grand Slam tennis tournament, we are behind-the-scenes at Wimbledon, p36 – where we look forward to biting on some delicious strawberries while watching the challengers to defending champions Novak Djokovic and Angelique Kerber. Trying your hand at something new is an essential part of every travel writers agenda – and highlights this season include; playing on the new Padel courts at Stoke Park, p11; learning to ride the waves at surfer’s paradise, Fistral Beach, Newquay, p70; joining a cookery class to improve the culinary skills, p86; and finding adventures after-dark with our 10 unique experiences, p22. Luxury hotels and places to stay have not gone unnoticed this season either, as we visit the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway, Heckfield Place, p80; bring you a round-up of some of the finest coastal retreats, p84; and offer you the opportunity to win an unforgettable stay in a beautifully styled cabin aboard Edinburgh’s new floating hotel, Fingal, p26! Together with our regular Travel News, p11, Cultural Agenda, p15, and travel itineraries, from p48, I hope this issue of British Travel Journal continues to inspire your upcoming travel plans – and that the sun keeps shining! Wishing everyone a wonderful summer. u

Jessicax

Jessica Way, Editor -In-Chief Jessica@britishtraveljournal.com

BritishTravelJournal.com

Do s EThi G

Mig T

A fantastic series of fully supported, one-day hiking marathons all over the UK. Every Mighty Hike is easily accessible and will take you to some of the most beautiful and unspoiled parts of our country. Bring your family, bring your friends and take a step forward for people living with cancer.

Find out more and sign up at macmillan.org.uk/mightyhikes

Macmillan Cancer Support, registered charity in England and Wales (261017), Scotland (SC039907) and the Isle of Man (604). Also operating in Northern Ireland.

CONTENTS SUMMER 2019 | ISSUE 02

Fingal, Edinburgh

Jubilee Pool Penzance

The Championships, Wimbledon

C O M P E T I T I O N

WIN A NIGHT OF LUXURY IN EDINBURGH... We are offering you and your companion the chance to stay aboard Fingal, in Edinburgh, including tickets to The Royal Yacht Britannia with a delicious Champagne Cream Tea!

JOTTINGS

11 15 22

TRAVEL NEWS

A look at what’s new, and travel noteworthy, in the British Isles.

CULTURAL AGENDA

Dates for your diary of things you don’t want to miss out on this summer.

10 UNIQUE EXPERIENCES YOU MUST TRY AF TER DARK

Moonwalks, night running, star-gazing, late-evening kayaking, rope-swinging... Finding the fun when the lights go down!

VICTUALS

Discover what’s new in the scene of British hospitality, Michelin-star chefs, restaurants, hotels and spas.

F E AT U R E S

NATHAN OUTLAW: SEA TO SHORE

TOP SEEDS: BEHIND THE SCENES AT WIMBLED ON

IN SEARCH OF SCOTCH WHISKY

Michelin star-chef Nathan Outlaw takes our food columnist on a gourmand’s tour of the wonderful Cornish coastline.

Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s most prestigious British sporting spectacles.

There are many reasons to visit Scotland, but its popular whisky industry is surely one of the best! We take a look at the brands and which distilleries to visit. à

BritishTravelJournal.com

EDITOR BUYS

GIFT TO ALL SUBSCRIBERS! Diamond Reef Knot Pendant £1,160 sheilafleet.com

ITINERARIES

SCOTLAND’S SOUTH WEST COAST 300

Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty of the new SWC300 touring route - a stunning drive of over 300 miles along the coast of South West Scotland.

Subscribe to British Travel Journal today and receive the ultimate in travel size luxury toiletries - worth £20! See page 40 for more or visit: britishtraveljournal.com /subscribe

THE GREAT WEST WAY

England’s first ever touring route, destined to become one of the premier routes in Europe, and probably the world.

IN FOCUS: PETWORTH

Discover this pretty historic market town, home to the National Trust’s Petworth House and Park, West Sussex.

WEEKEND BREAK: FISTRAL BEACH, NEWQUAY

LIFESTYLE

A surf paradise serving the country’s finest pasties – it’s no wonder this Cornish coastline is home to one of the nation's favourite seaside towns.

Loudoun Hill and the Spirit Of Scotland sculpture by Richard Price, near Darvel, East Ayrshire

INVESTOR

There has never been a more provident time to invest in Modern British Art – owning a piece of British art history, buying something beautiful, that may eventually provide a return on your investment.

HECKFIELD PLACE

ESCAPE TO THE COAST

Chantal Borciani discovers the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway – An exquisite new hotel redefining British country stays. Stay in a beautiful beach lodge, chic apartment or exquisite cottage, where you can listen to the waves, just steps from the beach, looking out to magnificent views.

D AY T R I P P E R

COOKERY SCHOOLS

Whether you are a budding chef wanting to finesse your culinary skills or you just want to try something new, a course at one of the UK’s best cookery schools is a must.

BritishTravelJournal.com

BLUE SKY THINKING: OPEN AIR THEATRE

From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness worldclass open-air theatre this summer at a range of iconic British locations.

FOR YOUR JOURNEY

Latest books, travel gadgets and our British travel inspired crossword.

WE A RE... THE D ISCOVERERS NAVIGATE OUR SEA KINGDOM WHERE IS WONDERS MEET THE

â&#x20AC;Śwandering the enchanted glens with the breeze that travels over plains and mountains, to the towering chasms that cascade to the depths of our emerald sea. Imagine a place where we, the Discoverers, roam through landscapes carved by Mother Nature and lit by distant stars. We stroll along coastal paths kissed by the dramatic seascapes that surround our magical Island, seek out the unexpected and the extraordinary, and wake up in sublime surroundings where we are reminded how life should be.

ROUTE KEY PLANE FERRY

WHO BOUND LAND WATER...

THE GREAT BRITISH ESCAPE!

S T O K E PA R K Stoke Park is a luxury 5 AA Red Star Hotel, Spa and Country Club set within 300 acres of beautiful parkland and offers world-class sporting and leisure facilities.

FACILITIES INCLUDE: • 49 Bedrooms and Suites • Award winning Spa • 27 hole Championship Golf Course • David Leadbetter Golf Academy • 3 Restaurants and Bars, including Humphry’s (3 AA Rosettes) • 13 Tennis Courts (indoor, grass and artificial clay) • 2 Padel Courts • Indoor Pool • State-of-the-art Gym with Fitness, Hot Yoga and Spinning Studios hosting up to 50 classes per week • Tinies Kids Club and Crèche • Games Room • Playground

For Hotel Reservations please call 01753 717171 or email reservations@stokepark.com Stoke Park, Park Road, Stoke Poges, Buckinghamshire SL2 4PG | www.stokepark.com

T R AV E L N E W S WHAT 'S NEW

Destinations | Renovations | Launches | Celebrations

Q U EEN O F T HE HEB R I DE S The Machrie Hotel and Links on the stunning Isle of Islay, nestled beside seven miles of pristine beach, has now opened. campbellgrayhotels.com

See also page 45

BE ONE OF THE FIRST TO TRAVEL ON THE NEW CALEDONIAN SLEEPER! New Caledonian Sleeper carriages have now been unveiled on the Lowlander route between London and Glasgow/Edinburgh, and on the Highlander route between London and Aberdeen, Inverness and Fort William. Designed to accommodate the modern-day traveller, the new trains offer rooms with double beds and en-suites – for the first time in the history of Caledonian Sleeper. Other new features include a hotel-style keycard entry system, charging panels and WiFi throughout the train. To find out more or to book a journey visit sleeper.scot

ST EA M D R EA M S A new vintage steam train service (from 4 June) offers journeys from London’s Waterloo Station to Windsor with elegant Pullman Style Dining carriages. royalwindsorsteamexpress.co.uk

A S O L I D S O LU T I O N WE LOVE

PI ONEER I NG IN PADEL

With predictions the sport is on the cusp of a British breakthrough, Stoke Park has become the first 5 Star Hotel in the UK to open Padel courts for members and guests staying in the hotel. stokepark.com

HAWKSTO N E HA L L

This magnificent Grade I listed 18th Century mansion in Shropshire, set within 88 acres, has for the first time in its 550 year history, opened its doors as a luxurious 37-bedroom hotel. hawkstonehall.co.uk

These solid beauty bars mean no more liquids and no more leaks when travelling!  ethiqueworld.com

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TRAV EL N E WS

TRIPLE WIN FOR YORKSHIRE Yorkshire Sculpture Park might have only just opened its new £3.6 million visitor centre, The Weston, but it's already winning, with three awards, from this year's RIBA Yorkshire Awards. ysp.org.uk

SU N DAY M OV I E C LUB SHOWIN G ICO N IC BR I T I S H C L A S S I C S Sunborn London has announced the re-launch of their Sunday Movie Club, with the new theme – Best of British. Enjoy Afternoon Tea followed by a screening of some of the most classic and well known movies of all time, including; Four Weddings and a Funeral, The King’s Speech, Bridget Jones’ Diary and many more, held in the grand, spacious auditorium located in the bow of the boat. Open to hotel residents and visitors to the yacht alike. Sunborn London is located adjacent to the ExCel centre and close to local attractions including the O2, Greenwich and the Emirates Air Line. Traditional Afternoon Tea with Laurent Perrier tasting and movie is priced £50 per person sunbornlondon.com

WINDERMERE JETTY LAUNCH The brand new museum of boats, steam and stories where visitors can sail on Osprey, a fully-restored Edwardian steam launch, has now opened its doors. windermerejetty.org

I N STAGR A M HI GHL I G H T "The Kelpies, 30-metre-high statues can be visited free at The Helix (Falkirk). The largest equine sculptures in the world..." instagram.com/britishtraveljournal

F I F T Y OF TH E UK 'S FIN EST HOT EL S HAVE BEEN FO U N D For the first time in its 37-year history, Pride of Britain Hotels has reached its self-imposed limit of 50 hotels, with the introduction of The Royal Crescent Hotel & Spa, Bath, into its collection of luxury independently-owned hotels - while Calcot & Spa, set within 220 acres of meadowland in the Cotswolds, has been named Pride of Britain Hotel of the Year 2019 for delivering outstanding hospitality. prideofbritainhotels.com

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#britishtraveljournal

EXPERIENCE MORE W I T H P R I D E O F B R I TA I N H OT E L S

ON THE COAST

D I S C OV E R A L L O U R E X P E R I E N C E S O N L I N E TO DAY

www.prideofbritainhotels.com/experiences

T H E A RT O F G R E AT H O S P I TA L I T Y Independently Owned | Luxury & Boutique Hotels | 50 Member Hotel Limit

0808 250 3121 â&#x20AC;¢ prideofbritainhotels.com

Unforgettable Cornwall Holidays DISCOVER YOU R COR NISH GE M

Let Cornish Gems set the scene for your holiday highlife in Cornwall. Choose from 180 luxury holiday homes offering beautiful settings for groups of up to 20.

BE ACH APARTMENTS • COUNTRY HOUSES • COASTAL COTTAGES • DOG FRIENDLY

cornishgems.com | 01872 241 241

C U LT U R A L A G E N D A HOT THIS SEASON

Colour and Light: The Art and Influence of the Scottish Colourists 18 OCTOBER 2019-JANUARY 2020 Featuring at the Lake District's Abbot Hall Art Gallery this exhibition presents the work of and influences of Scottish Colourists... centred on master-works from the renowned Fleming Collection which is the finest collection of Scottish art outside public museums and institutions. It follows their major summer show of Turner and Ruskin (p18)  abbothall.org.uk

à BritishTravelJournal.com

S J Peploe, Luxembourg Gardens, c. 1910, The Fleming Wyfold Collection

HIGHLIGHT

The Illusionists: Card tricks of Yo Ho Jin

A Midsummer Night's Dream at Shakespeare's Rose Theatre, York. Photo by Ant Robling Photography

THEATRE & SHOWS

WHAT WE'RE BOOKING Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre 25 JUNE-01 SEPTEMBER (YORK) 08 JULY-07 SEPTEMBER (BLENHEIM PALACE) 13th century Clifford’s Tower in York and Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire form the backdrops for a summer of Shakespeare. See popular works like Hamlet and Macbeth in a pop up playhouse inspired by the bard’s 1587 Rose Theatre. Whilst the surrounding re-created Elizabethan villages set the medieval mood.  shakespearerosetheatre.com

Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show 23 JULY-02 AUGUST After over two million people visited his exhibition, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, on its marathon global tour, the provocative fashion designer is now telling his story in cabaret. The extravagant, unconventional show at London’s Southbank Centre mirrors his fashion. Don your feathers and corsets for this stylish party.

The Illusionists 06 JULY-01 SEPTEMBER Abracadabra – The Illusionists re-appear at London’s Shaftesbury Theatre. Among the mind bending line-up are the stylish card tricks of Yo Ho Jin and daredevil escapology by Jonathan Goodwin who can also throw a knife or two. Then there’s Adam Trent’s high tech tricks with his music and comedy interludes. See them before they disappear.  theillusionistslive.com

Uncle Vanya 18 JULY-03 AUGUST Bath’s Grade II listed Georgian theatre hosts one of this season’s most tantalising stage debuts. Upper crust actor, Rupert Everett turns director in a new version of Anton Chekhov’s Uncle Vanya at the Theatre Royal by award-winning playwright, David Hare. This re-mastered tale of disruption and unrequited love also stars Everett.  theatreroyal.co.uk

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Theatre Royal Bath

Jean Paul Gaultier: Fashion Freak Show

Rupert Everett to star in Uncle Vanya

 southbankcentre.co.uk

Cindy Sherman 133.15 Untitled Film Still # 15

John Frederick Lewis: Blackburn, In the Bezestein, El Khan Khalil, Cairo

John Frederick Lewis 09 JULY-03 NOVEMBER For an exotic tour of Cairo to Constantinople in the 19th century, head to the Watts Gallery in Compton village, Surrey which is showing the oils and watercolours of British Orientalist artist, John Frederick Lewis. His detailed vibrant images bring alive his heady lifestyle from busy bazaars to romantic gardens.

Cindy Sherman 27 JUNE-15 SEPTEMBER The National Portrait Gallery is hosting this summer’s blockbuster - the UK’s first retrospective of American artist, Cindy Sherman. Around 180 images of her manipulated selfies since the 1970s will be on display including her ground breaking Untitled Film Series, Centerfolds and others never seen before.

 wattsgallery.org.uk

 npg.org.uk

Natalia Goncharova 06 JUNE-08 SEPTEMBER Discover the breath-taking versatility of early 20th century Russian avant garde artist, Natalia Goncharova, who has her first UK retrospective at Tate Modern. Alongside her vivid paintings and lithographs of Russian life, discover her book designs, textiles and experimental costumes and set designs for Sergei Diaghilev’s iconic Ballets Russes including The Firebird.

Keith Haring 14 JUNE-10 NOVEMBER With the 1980s en vogue, head to Tate Liverpool to immerse yourself in the decade. For the dockside gallery is celebrating one of the era’s poster boys, Keith Haring. Ahead of his time, he even put subway drawings on gallery walls. Alongside his cartoon-like works, his collaborations with Madonna, Grace Jones and other 80s icons are there too.

Edouard Vuillard: The Poetry Of The Everday 24 MAY-15 SEPTEMBER Bath’s Holburne Museum is drenched in colour this summer as 40 works by Post Impressionist, Edouard Vuillard are on show. These intimate scenes including his mother pinning her bun, two women chatting and a game of shuttlecock show how he turns the simplest activity into the most emotionally charged scene.

 tate.org.uk

 holburne.org

EXHIBITIONS

WHAT WE'RE SEEING

Natalia Goncharova's set design for the final scene of The Firebird

Tseng Kwong Chi, Keith Haring in subway car, (New York)

Edouard Vuillard's The Game of Shuttlecock

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John Ruskin, Dawn, Coniston, 1873, Watercolour over pencil, acquired with the support of a V&A Purchase Grant and the Friends of Abbot Hall Art Gallery, Kendal, Cumbria.

Ruskin, Turner And The Storm Cloud 12 JULY-05 OCTOBER J.M.W. Turner’s stormy landscapes arrive at Kendal’s 18th century Abbot Hall Art Gallery in the Lake District, revealing a romantic view of British hotspots from the Kent Medway to Lancaster Sands. Alongside lesser known work of Victorian art critic, John Ruskin, on the 200th anniversary of his birth. The exhibition offers a fresh take on Turner’s iconic works.  abbothall.org.uk

John Akomfrah 06 JULY-27 OCTOBER The films of award winning British artist John Akomfrah take centre stage at the Baltic Centre for Contemporary Art in Gateshead. The immersive multi-channel installations, celebrating black identity, includes his deep dive into the New Orleans jazz scene as well as his poetic interpretation of a 16th century Albrecht Dürer painting.  baltic.art

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John Akomfrah, Peripeteia, 2012 Single channel HD colour video, 5.1 sound, 17 minutes 28 seconds Courtesy of Smoking Dogs Films and Lisson Gallery

Phoebe Cummings Source (clay) Bornholm Kunstmuseum, Denmark 2018

A Tea Journey: From The Mountains To The Table 06 JULY-22 SEPTEMBER Afternoon tea is still chic – whether at The Ritz or The Berkeley. Now Compton Verney is exploring the cultural significance of this popular drink with an ambitious exhibition – from 7th to 10th century Tang dynasty tea vessels, a 2010 bamboo and paper Japanese tea house by Kazuhiro Yajima, to a model clipper and samples.

SHOPPING

WHERE WE'RE SPENDING

BRITISH TRAVEL

J O U R N A L

Loves...

 comptonverney.org.uk

Sheila Fleet Jewellery

Head to Princes Square, Glasgow's award-winning retail destination, for Sheila Fleet’s brand new store, filled with her stylish unique collections, inspired by the beautiful islands of Orkney.

After the Taking of Tea, 2019 © Charlotte Hodes, Photographer Stephen Heaton

 sheilafleet.com

WHERE WE'RE INVESTING

Queen Victoria’s Palace 20 JULY-29 SEPTEMBER Queen Victoria has barely disappeared from our TV screens. Now Buckingham Palace’s summer exhibition reveals how the young monarch turned an unloved residence into today’s royal headquarters. Amongst Royal Collection artefacts, tap your foot to a waltz danced at the Crimean Ball and marvel at the Ballroom’s original decoration.  rct.uk

The Lakes by YOO An idyllic estate in the Cotswolds, The Lakes by YOO, is for the first time offering the opportunity to invest in a state-of-the-art apartment, right on the water’s edge, alongside its 130+ houses. These new £1m-plus threebed apartments are to be fully-serviced by The Lakes concierge and owners and guests have access to the estate’s facilities. A unique investment opportunity – as here you can buy the apartment, enjoy it and rent it out.  thelakesbyyoo.com

GANT'S 70th Birthday Collection

Inspired by the coastal living lifestyle, numerous shades of ocean blue dominate the color palette of preppy American sportswear brand GANT's 70th anniversary collection.  gant.co.uk

London Designer Outlet

Combining the best of online with outlet shopping, Dropit is a new shopping app available at London Designer Outlet, offering a nifty store-to-door delivery service of all purchases made within its 50 stores – and with the option to deliver to homes, hotels or workplaces.  londondesigneroutlet.com

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Wilderness Festival

Royal Ascot © Third Light/ Getty Images

Henley Royal Regatta

FAIRS & FESTIVALS

WHERE WE’RE PARTYING Royal Ascot 18 JUNE-22 JUNE Dress to impress at Royal Ascot – whether you are invited to the Royal Enclosure or closer to the horseracing action in the Queen Anne Enclosure. Invest in new tails at New & Lingwood or a new Stephen Jones hat. Be there at 2pm sharp to see the royals on parade.  ascot.co.uk

Henley Royal Regatta 03 JULY-07 JULY What better way to spend a hot summer’s day than by the banks of the River Thames in Henley – watching the world and rowers go by with a glass of fizz? Don your best blazer or tea dress for the members’ only Stewards’ Enclosure or rock a rowing look elsewhere.  hrr.co.uk

Glastonbury Festival 26 JUNE-30 JUNE The Killers, The Cure, Stormzy and even Kylie are the headline acts at this year’s Glastonbury Festival at Worthy Farm in Somerset. Whilst the Pyramid Stage is where to hear the big guns, experiment with up and coming music at the John Peel Stage or underground beats at Babylon Uprising.

Masterpiece London Art Fair 27 JUNE-03 JULY Nestling in the Royal Hospital Chelsea grounds lies this top notch eclectic art and design fair. Look for Banksy’s spray paint Kissing Coppers at the Geoffrey Diner Gallery and Lyndsey Ingram’s must see prints by Grayson Perry, the Chapman Brothers and others. Whilst Hong Kong jeweller, Cindy Chao will unveil her 2019 one-of-a-kind butterfly.

 glastonburyfestivals.co.uk

 masterpiecefair.com

BritishTravelJournal.com

Edinburgh International Film Festival 19 JUNE-30 JUNE Edinburgh might be colder than Cannes, but the screenings at the city’s international film festival are equally hot. Billy Elliott and The Hurt Locker have been among them. Modern and cult Spanish films are this year’s focus - kicking off with Tommy Smith and the Scottish National Jazz Orchestra’s take on Miles Davis’s Sketches of Spain.  edfilmfest.org.uk

Wilderness Festival 01 AUGUST-04 AUGUST This Oxfordshire festival is one of the swankiest. Amongst sets by Tom Odell, the reformed Bombay Bicycle Club, there’s art, dance and more. Activities range from horse-riding to axe throwing. Whilst for ultimate zen, try Paddleboard yoga or the spa. Posh food is on offer too by top chefs.  wildernessfestival.com

WHAT WE’RE WATCHING

C U LT U R A L H I G H L I G H T S

Yesterday 28 JUNE The Beatles and their music are the subject of this summer’s Brit flick, Yesterday - as a struggling musician (newcomer, Himesh Patel) takes credit for their songs when he realises that no one else has heard of them. Spot Liverpool’s Penny Lane as one of the many British locations.  yesterdaymovie.com

WHAT WE'RE READING WHAT WE’RE LISTENING TO

WHAT WE'RE DISCOVERING

The 1975 It’s been a big year for Manchester quartet, The 1975 - scooping top two BRIT awards for British group and British album. Now we’re eagerly waiting for their latest album, Notes on a Conditional Form, to drop this summer. Meanwhile, head to Glasgow, Leeds and Reading in August to listen to them live.

Tendril Is The Night 27 JUNE-07 JULY Glimpse into Chelsea’s cultural history with a visit to the open studio home of sculptor turned potter, Kate Braine at 20 Cheyne Row.Discover her colourful ceramics in the Edwardian drawing room and beyond and her garden kiln. With former homes of Mick Jagger and Marianne Faithfull, Whistler and others nearby - it’s London’s hidden cultural enclave.

 the1975.com

 #KateBrainePots

Take The Slow Road: England & Wales Plan new ways to see England and Wales with this lively book on camper van and motorhome trips by Martin Dorey published by Conway. Discover 28 routes and their hidden highlights like the waterfalls en route from Harrogate to Bolton Abbey or Blakeney Point’s seal colony in North Norfolk. Helpful tips include where to eat, stay and the number of days needed to explore.  bloomsbury.com

Rusty Orange Scorched Lava Alien Flowers

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10 of the best

UNIQUE

EXPERIENCES YO U M U S T T RY

After Dark!

STARGAZING IN SCOTLAND

Head to Glenapp Castle to see clear night skies in their amazing glory. Thanks to minimal pollution, Galloway Forest Park in Ayrshire is home to some of Europe’s darkest skies. Join Glenapp’s Stargazing Experience for hot chocolate, night binoculars and an expert dark sky ranger who will explain everything on view: the myriad of stars, the Milky Way, maybe even the Northern Lights.

 glenappcastle.com

BritishTravelJournal.com

Not all of the UK goes to sleep after dark, and you don’t have to either. The Museum of London recently announced it will open overnight from 2023 but, until then, here’s a selection of adventures and experiences to try when the sun goes down: Words | Max Wooldridge

E XP E R IE N C E S

DUNWICH DYNAMO

On 13/14 July, join hundreds of cycle enthusiasts – on road bikes, tandems and recumbents - for the Dunwich Dynamo, an annual 200km overnight ride from Hackney, in East London, to the lost medieval city of Dunwich on the Suffolk coast.

At low tide, as the English Channel recedes, Jersey doubles in size to 116 square miles. Discover underwater secrets on a fascinating night walk to Seymour Tower, a small fort on an islet a mile offshore. See bioluminescent creatures and marine life across the exposed rocky seabed by the light of a full moon. They are known as “moonwalks” after the terrain’s resemblance to a lunar landscape.  jerseywalkadventures.co.uk

 southwarkcyclists.org.uk

JERSEY MOONWALKS

LUMIERE FESTIVAL

Fancy a moonlit jog through ancient woodlands or Georgian landscaped gardens? Each autumn and winter, The National Trust hosts a programme of after-dark trail runs at a number of its properties across the UK.

See local and global artists light up buildings and public spaces in London, Durham and other UK cities with light installations and illuminations and large-scale projections. The UK’s largest light festival, now in its 10th year, runs from 14-17 November 2019.

 nationaltrust.org.uk

 lumiere-festival.com

NIGHT RUNNING - VARIOUS LOCATIONS

BritishTravelJournal.com

LONDON’S NIGHT FOOD MARKETS

8 WILDLIFE SPOTTING IN CARMARTHENSHIRE

Spot nocturnal animals like otters, beavers and badgers in their natural habitat in a 300-acre farm in Carmarthenshire. You’ll also be helping a not-for-profit wildlife company reintroduce wild beavers in Wales.  bevistrust.comk

London’s street food scene has enjoyed nothing short of a revolution in recent years, with many derelict and disused spaces being transformed into night food markets. Try Shoreditch’s Dinerama, Canary Wharf’s Giant Robot and Lewisham's Model Market for mouth-watering global cuisine.  streetfeast.com

ROPE-SWINGING

Each month, between May and November, Lincoln Castle runs themed evening tours of William the Conqueror’s fine fortress. Visit the castle’s Victorian prison, see a medieval cooking demonstration, a falconry masterclass, or take a wall walk for twilight views of the city.

 lincolncastle.com

NIGHT WALKS ALONG THE WALLS OF LINCOLN CASTLE

IN DARKNESS

Perfect your Tarzan call and take a leap in the dark in North Yorkshire’s Dalby Forest. Go Ape’s Adventures After Hours programme features twilight zip-wires and the chance to get to grips with the high ropes after dark.  goape.co.uk

Experience some of the best night skies in the UK on a full moon kayak adventure in the heart of the Norfolk Broads. See the moon and the stars reflected in the tranquil waters aboard an easy-to-paddle two-seater kayak. The two-and-ahalf hour adventure takes place on Hickling Broad and the surrounding narrow reed bed backwaters.

N I G H T K AYA K I N G I N N O R F O L K 24

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 norfolkoutdooradventures.co.uk

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Staying aboard Fingal in Edinburgh

Enter our competition to win an indulgent five-star break for two, with a truly Royal award-winning experience, in the Port of Leith

HE LUCKY WINNER, and their guest, will be welcomed aboard Fingal, a luxury floating hotel permanently berthed on Edinburghâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vibrant waterfront, just a short stroll to the shops, restaurants and galleries. Fingal started life as a lighthouse tender, helping maintain lighthouses and transporting their keepers, equipment and supplies to some

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of the most treacherous locations in Scotland. Now she has been transformed into an exquisite 23 cabin boutique hotel, with decks for stargazing and Champagne, by the award winning team at The Royal Yacht Britannia. This is where time slows to a gentle deck stroll, where you can experience the unhurried luxury of life on board ship and every contour and curve, every angle and tilt

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▶ of Fingal is certain to offer a totally unique experience, far removed from your everyday world. Just a short walk from the hotel, the lucky duo will be further rewarded with a magnificent ‘Royal Day Out’, at Scotland’s Best Visitor Attraction – The Royal Yacht Britannia, where they will enjoy stunning panoramic waterfront views, and a delicious Champagne Cream Tea in the Royal Deck Tea Room. Britannia was launched from the John Brown & Company shipyard in Clydebank, Scotland, on 16 April, 1953. For over 44 years the Royal Yacht served the Royal Family, travelling more than a million nautical miles to become one of the most famous ships in the world. To Her Majesty The Queen, Britannia provided the perfect Royal residence for glittering state visits, official receptions, Royal honeymoons and relaxing family holidays. For Great Britain, she was a majestic symbol of the Commonwealth and a proud ambassador,

generating billions of pounds in trade deals. For the Royal Family and the 220 dedicated crew of Royal Yachtsmen, she was home. Step aboard this famous ship and follow in the footsteps of Royalty. Explore Britannia’s five decks with the free audio guide, available in 30 languages, as well as a children’s tour and British Sign Language tablet. See the elegant State Apartments and the gleaming Engine Room. See where Prince William and Prince Harry spent their summer holidays. Discover where kings and queens, world leaders and celebrities were wined and dined; from Frank Sinatra and Liz Taylor to Nelson Mandela and Sir Winston Churchill. In the Royal Deck Tea Room you can enjoy freshly prepared, homemade food, stunning views and a warm welcome. Treat yourself with speciality teas, coffees and lunch where the Royal Family previously would have enjoyed drinks receptions, sumptuous buffets, or played deck games. u

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britishtraveljournal.com In addition to an overnight stay on board Fingal, tickets to visit The Royal Yacht Britannia, and a delicious afternoon tea, the lucky winner will also be sent a complimentary annual subscription to British Travel Journal with a Travel Trio gift set from Noble Isle. L A ST E N T R I E S 3 1 AU G U ST 2 0 1 9

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Aldern ey s Stunni â&#x20AC;&#x2122; ng Back drop

Alderney is bursting with flavour. From local produce and rich creamy milk to seafood straight from the islands clear waters, all of which is stocked across the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shops and can be enjoyed in our delightful cafes and restaurants.

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1-12 JULY

VICTUALS WHAT 'S NEW

Restaurants | Food | Drink | Hotels

S COT L A N D ’ S F I R ST VO DK A D I ST I L L ERY EXP ERI E NC E Located 20 miles north of Dundee, Ogilvy Vodka – Scotland’s first potato vodka distillery – has opened the doors of its new £150K visitor centre. ogilvyspirits.com

SCALLOPS, SUNSHINE AND SPARKLING WINE! Nyetimber Dorset Seafood Festival, one of the UK’s top seafood festivals, is set to take place over the weekend of 13-14 July, along Weymouth’s historic and picturesque harbour. The award-winning event, now in its 12th year, is free to attend and offers over 100 stalls of seafood, chef demos, children’s activities and delicious English sparkling wine. Drawing crowds of over 50,000 people, it is home to the top names in seafood producers, chefs, and fishermen from Dorset and across the country. dorsetseafood.co.uk

F I N E EN GL I S H FI Z Z Digby Fine English has recently opened their elegant new tasting room and cellar door in the beautiful town of Arundel, West Sussex. digby-fine-english.com

NEW

TH E F LOATIN G SPA

Revitalise with this unique spa experience, moored on the banks of the Monkey Island Estate - a private island with 30 exquisite guest rooms - now open in Bray-on-Thames. monkeyislandestate.co.uk

MANDARIN ORIENTAL

Following a multi-million pound restoration, Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London has now re-opened, and is honouring the hotel’s illustrious 117-year history with a series of events. mandarinoriental.com

We love this new cookbook priced £18, from mezepublishing.co.uk and summery bottle of 2019 Babylonstoren Mourvèdre Rosé, priced £14.90, from babylonstoren.com

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INTERVIEW WITH

N AT H A N O U T L AW

Sea to Shore

An esteemed culinary career ignited by the sea, Michelin star wizard Nathan Outlaw takes food columnist Chantal Borciani on a gourmand’s tour of the Cornish coastline!

MASTER OF SEAFOOD and the seasonal, Nathan Outlaw has wowed food critics, trained under the tutelage of top chefs, earned his Michelin stars and stripes and is now synonymous with the finest Cornish dining. Widely regarded as Cornwall’s greatest chef in residence, Nathan’s eponymous Port Isaac fish restaurant holds two Michelin stars and has also been crowned the UK’s top restaurant in the 2019 Food & Drink Guide – for the second year running. Not bad for a boy who grew up hundreds of miles away in Kent. The son of a chef, aged eight Nathan was buttering toast during breakfast service in his dad’s kitchen. He worked in kitchens on evenings and weekends and his first job out of Thanet’s catering college was at the Intercontinental, followed by stints with renowned chefs including Gary Rhodes and Eric Chavot. Passionate about seafood, Nathan soon landed on Rick Stein’s doorstep in Padstow. “It was 1996, and at the time there were only really a handful of excellent fish restaurants

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and Rick’s Seafood Restaurant was the place. I just knew I had to do it. I told myself, if you're going to work somewhere, work in the best place in the world for seafood’, and that was Rick's,” Nathan says. “It was a brilliant time to be working there. It was manically busy but good fun.” Today, Nathan owns his two Michelin star Restaurant Nathan Outlaw near Port Isaac and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, located literally metres down the road, which boasts another coveted star. He usually spends a couple of days a week in London, where he is slated to open a new restaurant at The Goring hotel, where Kate Middleton famously spent the night before her wedding to Prince William. “I'd be lying if I said I was ever not ready to come back to Cornwall after a couple of days in London. I mean, just look at it.” Nathan is sitting by the kitchen pass in Port Isaac, and gestures to the window where barrelling surf races towards the Cornish shore and a winter’s sunset floods the sky with crimson and mauve spindles. “I'd always had my eye on this building,”

he says of the Restaurant Nathan Outlaw property, which overlooks the charming and tiny bay of Port Gaverne. “I'll never leave this place. And that's the first time I've ever felt like that.” Positively effervescent when it comes to Cornish produce, Nathan eschews trends and continues to write his set tasting menu at Restaurant Nathan Outlaw everyday depending on the catch that comes in. For Nathan, who has made his home in Cornwall, West Country traditions and its bewitching landscape are all part of the county’s rich allure. “If you arrive on a Friday evening, head to the pub. I like the St Kew Inn – it’s a real Cornish hostelry that dates back to the 15th century. You might be lucky and hear some shanty songs being sung there. “There are so many beautiful beaches both on the north and south shores but I tend to visit Trevone most. I like it there

because there are two beaches; one sandy and one rocky so you get the best of both worlds. I also like the little beach just below my restaurant at Port Gaverne. It’s tiny, but when the tide is low you can explore all the rock pools with the kids. I love walking along the Camel Trail and the walk from Port Isaac along to Port Quinn has amazing views and will really blow away the cobwebs." A foodie through and through, Nathan has recommendations for every

day of the week. “For a Saturday lunch head to somewhere like Appletons at Trevibban Mill vineyard and winery where you can enjoy relaxed food food in a beautiful setting. The Lost Gardens of Heligan are spectacular for a Saturday afternoon stroll or the Eden Project has loads of activities – you can zip line across the entire place!” If you’re a keen home cook, Nathan recommends heading to the Port Isaac Seafood School down by the à

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With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, plus the outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly just a ferry hop away, Penzance has never been short of reasons to visit.

harbour where George Cleave and his team will show you the day’s catch and give advice on how to prepare and cook it. “On Saturday night, head to one of the really nice restaurants, my one's pretty good!” Nathan laughs. “And down the road at the Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen of course. Paul Ainsworth in Padstow is really good, a lovely restaurant right in the centre of the harbour town. “There are some superb restaurants if you want to head further afield, too. I recently visited The Driftwood on the Roseland peninsula – Chris Eden is head chef there and is the only Michelin star Cornish chef ever so that’s a bit special.”

“Down in the Penzance area, The Shore is run by Bruce Rennie and impressively he does it all himself. It’s just him in the kitchen and he cooks fantastic seafood. Ben's Cornish Kitchen is another Penzance gem, where diners can enjoy Cornish food cooked to a very high standard.” With unmissable sights including nearby Marazion’s tidal island and ancient castle of St Michael’s Mount, the Jubilee Pool, an Art Deco lido on Penzance's Promenade, plus the outlying microclimatic Isles of Scilly

just a ferry hop away, Penzance has never been short of reasons to visit, but thanks to an influx of inventive chefs, its food scene is now really coming of age. Another food haven not to miss is the town’s first smokehouse at The Cornish Barn where hip cocktails are served alongside home-smoked Cornish meat and fish. And with local vineyards, breweries, bountiful fish markets and farms across both shores, it’s little surprise Cornwall is a magnet for gourmands and top chefs alike. Round off your visit trying local ales in the seafaring inns that dot both magical coasts, Nathan says, and you’ll soon see why this eminent chef would never live anywhere else. à

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WHERE TO STAY: North Cornwall: The Scarlet For the ultimate Cornish beach escape, this eco hotel set on the spectacular north coast is simply unbeatable and is an easy drive from Padstow and Port Isaac. With a reedfringed outdoor pool, two clifftop hot tubs, an award-winning spa and a sea-view sauna, The Scarlet offers five-star relaxation rooted in the heart and soul of its Cornish location. Local art adorns the walls, the whole hotel smells incredible thanks to the Cornish Oula toiletires and around every corner guests are greeted with soul-soothing views of the sea. The adult-only retreat blends into the hillside overlooking the creamy surf of Mawgan Porth and the marigold beach lies just footsteps through the wild grass meadow garden. Settle into a sea-view couples pod, enjoy fine dining with one of the best sunsets in Cornwall and then doze off to the sound of waves hitting the shore. The South West Coast Path winds right along the front of the hotel, ideal for hikes across to the glorious expanses of Watergate Bay. A spellbinding coastal retreat. ď&#x2018;ł scarlethotel.co.uk

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TA ST E O F CO R N WA L L Marazion: Godolphin Arms Experience the time and tides of Cornwall like never before; guests can watch the shifting sands around Mounts Bay as the tide sweeps across the causeway eventually lapping at the hotel brickwork. Fall to sleep to the sound of the sea and wake to the ever-changing vistas and sunrise above St Michael’s Mount. For beach walks, sensational sunsets and extraordinary access to St Michael’s Mount, this commanding position is second to none. For the best views in the house, book the remarkably well priced family apartment in Room 11, where sea views abound and a picture window captures the endless beauty of Mounts Bay and the iconic castle.  godolphinarms.co.uk

Penzance: Chapel House One of the most exquisitely designed boutique hotels in Cornwall, Chapel House occupies a captivating Georgian townhouse in the old quarter. Dating back to 1790, with former inhabitants including Admiral

Samuel Hood Linzee of HMS Temeraire, the guesthouse has been painstakingly restored and today mixes the old with contemporary flashes of genius. A baby grand sits alongside abstract art, beamed bedrooms boast sumptuous open-plan polished concrete bathrooms, and crackling in-room log burners contrast with vibrant Ercol furniture – staying here is an adventure. Flooded with natural light, the property’s plethora of picture windows make the most of the jaw-dropping sea views. The stylish top loft bedroom is a particular favourite and features an en suite bathroom glass ceiling that retracts so guests can bathe under the stars with the view of the chapel spires. The graceful décor extends to two apartments that adjoin the main house, which provide guests with even more privacy and living space. Apartment 1 has no less than three balconies and panoramic views of Penzance harbour. An exceptional find, with Bruce Rennie’s The Shore just footsteps away.

ABOVE: RESTAURANT NATHAN OUTLAW Raw Mackerel, roast onion, parsnip, chilli oil

 chapelhousepz.co.uk

ABOVE: DRIFTWOOD 40 Day Old Fillet of Ruby Red Beef Cooked Over Coals, Smoked Bone Marrow, Garlic & Spinach followed by Lemon Verbena, Shortbread, White Chocolate & Macadamia Nut BELOW: AINSWORTH Paul Ainsworth at No. 6, Padstow Trifle

Pictured opposite page: The Scarlet. Picture above in a clockwise direction from top left, Chapel House; Bottom left, Godolphin Arms.

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TOP SEEDS

Behind-the-Scenes

Welcome to Wimbledon – one of the world’s most prestigious British sporting spectacles Words | Chantal Borciani

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The ball boys and girls line up for their official photocall outside the clubhouse

� AELTC/Joel Marklund

TRAVEL INSPIRATION

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VERY SUMMER, MORE than 470,000 tennis fans descend on London SW19’s hallowed turf for the annual Wimbledon Championships. The iconic British tennis event is broadcast to millions and is rooted in quintessential tradition and pageantry. Dating back to the 1870s when the inaugural tournament was held in front of a crowd of 200 spectators, today the annual sporting spectacle is held at Wimbledon’s All England Lawn Tennis Club (AELTC) and attracts Hollywood stars and royalty alike, with Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge a passionate patron of the AELTC. In the run up to the tournament, the All England Club is, not surprisingly, a hive of activity. The courts, where all eyes will soon be fixed, are the responsibility of the fastidious grounds team, headed up by Neil Stubley. As head groundsman, it is Neil’s responsibility to ensure the 40 courts are in perfect condition when the gates open. “There’s definitely pressure. It’s arguably one of the top three sporting events in the world,” Neil explains as he walks alongside the immaculately manicured edge of Centre Court. Neil began working at the All England Club on a work placement in 1995 and has risen through the ranks. He has a rather modest team of 15 full-time groundsmen, which doubles in size during the summer

“With this July’s tournament on the horizon, the grounds staff will work day and night to ensure every painstaking detail is perfect”

Pictured Left: The Venus Rosewater Dish and The Gentlemen's Singles Trophy on Centre Court. Selling strawberries at the kiosk on St Mary's Walk.

Images

� AELTC/Thomas Lovelock/ Chris Raphael/ Joe Toth/Ben Queenborough

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and is “responsible for everything that grows”. This includes the 50,000 plants that adorn the club, the iconic Boston Ivy which clads the famous clubhouse, and every millimetre of the 100 per cent rye grass that is laid on each court. “We measure the courts every day for hardness, moisture, chlorophyll content and so on. The grass is cut to 8mm for The Championships and each court has a tailored irrigation system run from a centralised computer.” The aim, Neil says, is for absolute consistency. “In theory, anyone like Roger [Federer] or Andy [Murray] should be able to go onto any of the match courts or practice courts two hours before heading on to Centre Court or No. 1 Court and they should all play exactly the same”. “These days tennis players don’t leave anything to chance. During the Championships, we’ll get players like Djokovic asking what yesterday’s weather might have done to the court, or what time we cut the courts that day and if it was the same time as yesterday because they’re always looking for that extra one per cent,” Neil explains. Since 1922 there have only been seven tournaments without rain interruptions recorded and in recent years, Neil and his team have dealt with heatwaves, hail and everything in between. “In 2017, two heat-waves struck London just before The Championships opened. We were getting 40c temperatures on the playing surface. So two weeks before the tournament we were trying to manage grass that pretty much shuts down above 28c.” While Neil and his team tend to the courts, a rather unusual member of the Wimbledon grounds team takes to the skies. Rufus the Harris Hawk has been working at Wimbledon since 2007, and has his own AELTC security pass with his job title detailed officially as ‘Bird Scarer’. Rufus usually starts flying around 5am during The Championships and patrols the courts until 9am to ensure that the iconic ivy-green seats remain unsullied for spectators. Rufus’s handler Imogen Davis explains: “We visit most weeks of the year as a pigeon deterrent. Rufus even has a purple and green coloured hood to wear at Wimbledon and his own social media accounts.” With the courts maintained to exacting standards and even the resident hawk in uniform, it goes without saying that the same degree of precision is applied to every other facet of the tournament. Around 54,250 balls are used during The Championships every year with each ball kept at 68°F before use; the stringing team work night and day and string over 2,000 rackets, equal to over 40 miles

Pictured Below: Ground Staff mow and stripe Court 18.

COURT ACTION

290TENNIS MILLION BALLS

could fit into Centre Court with the roof closed

39,000 SPECTATORS

are allowed in the grounds at any one time

303,277

GLASSES OF PIMM’S are on average consumed

21,917

BOTTLES OF CHAMPAGNE are on average popped!

Pictured Above: Garbine Muguruza (ESP) in action against Venus Williams (USA) in the Ladiesí Singles Final on Centre Court 2017 Championships at Wimbledon.

of string; and the traditional strawberries and cream devoured by so many visitors – 166,055 portions during 2017’s Championships to be exact – are usually Grade 1 English strawberries from the ‘The Garden of England’, Kent. The strawberries are picked daily at 4am, collected from the packing plant at 9am and are delivered to the Club by 11am for inspection and hulling, for guests to enjoy on the same day. New for 2019 will be the retractable roof on No.1 Court – the completion of a three-year build, which also includes refurbished hospitality suites; two more rows of approximately 900 seats; the creation of a two-level public plaza named the Walled Garden; and a larger big screen for the famously atmospheric outdoor viewing hill, which in recent years has coined the moniker of Murray Mound. As Wimbledon has grown, so too has its influence and impact on the local community. The Wimbledon Foundation, the charity of the AELTC, has awarded over £1.75 million to local projects since the Foundation began in 2013 and plays a pivotal role in opening up the complex to schools and charities. After each Championship, the Foundation also helps redistribute unclaimed lost property and resources. “In 2018 we donated 2,500 plants to local charities, sent camping equipment left behind to the YMCA Wimbledon, donated IT equipment to local charities, unclaimed spectacles to Vision Aid Overseas, and donated unwanted clothing items to local night shelters and the Red Cross Refugee Centre,” explains Helen Parker, head of Wimbledon Foundation. The Championships’ impact both at grass roots level and on the world stage continues at a pace but if you don’t have a golden ticket to the on-court action for this year fear not as The Wimbledon Lawn Tennis Museum and tours of the All England Club are open year round

129MPH FASTEST ALL

TIME SERVE (LADIES) Venus Williams (2008)

76,603 ICE CREAMS

are on average enjoyed

307,277

TEA AND COFFEE cups are served on average per tournament

33,000KG STRAWBERRIES

were consumed during the 2017 tournament

and offer visitors a glimpse behind-the-scenes of this historic site, with access to Centre Court, the BBC TV studio, the members' balcony and the iconic players' entrance. With this July’s tournament on the horizon, the grounds staff will work day and night to ensure every painstaking detail is perfect. And the last job to do? Changing the scoreboards on Centre Court, which remain as they stood at the final ‘Game, set, match’ at the Ladies’ and Mens’ finals until the new action kicks off for this year’s Championships. u

THE 2019 CHAMPIONSHIPS IS HELD M O N D AY 1 J U LY – S U N D AY 1 4 J U LY  WIMBLEDON.COM

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In search of

SCOTCH WHISKY Over four million visitors a year beat a path to Scotland's distilleries for an authentic taste of the country

HERE ARE MANY REASONS to visit Scotland, but its whisky industry is by far one of the best. Unlike many major manufacturing sites, the average Scottish distillery is almost always located in the countryside. Because they draw their water from the purest springs and streams, whisky-makers tend to work in clean, unsullied rural locations. And most of these tend to be picturesque. Often you’ll find the famous drink being distilled inside idiosyncratic old buildings that have evolved over time, many of them with distinctive pagoda-like wooden rooves. Step inside and you’ll invariably be met with a cocktail of highly distinctive smells: old wood, grain, yeast and spirit. You’re also likely to be met by an enthusiastic team who love sharing their commitment to Scotland’s uisge beatha (the Celtic words for water of life). The whisky industry is thriving today – with the result that the names of lots of tiny Scottish villages are famous all round the world – so it can be hard to believe that in the 1980s “Scotch” was verging on the unfashionable. A drink that had evolved over centuries had become the tipple for old men and many distilleries were on the brink of closure. The reasons for whisky’s subsequent recovery are many and complex. Clever marketing, astute management and increasing affluence in the east may have had something to do with it but the resurgence within a generation is extraordinary.

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Today whisky is not just one of Scotland’s major exports, but one of the reasons people from all over the world come to visit. Uisge beatha began in feudal times as a crofter’s spirit brewed and sold locally and used to provide a powerful kick-start to the day. Not diluted as it is today (to around 40% alcohol) this original “water of life” probably actually shortened life expectancy. Invigoration or anaesthesia against the cold Scottish mornings was probably the main benefit of whisky in those early days. In the nineteenth century however the first enterprising Scots merchants began buying up raw local whiskies and blending them to create a predictable – and enjoyable – taste in every bottle. The rapid improvement in the quality of blended whiskies like Johnnie Walker, Famous Grouse and Dewar’s had the knock-on effect of encouraging individual distilleries to improve the quality of their own single (unblended) malts. These days, although there are still great blended whiskies out there, it is the single malts that sell for thousands of pounds at auction and it is the individual distilleries that attract pilgrims from all over the world who come just to pay homage to the home of their favourite dram. ________________________________________________________ Just as French wines rely on the individual terroir where the grapes are produced, so Scots whisky is an embodiment of the landscape over which the water flows before going into each à

Words | Adrian Mourby

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Visitors enjoy a guided tour of the Clydeside Distillery, Glasgow

Whisky is one of Scotland’s most valuable commodities, attracting visitors from all over the world, with one in five visitors making a trip to a whisky distillery during their stay - VisitScotland whisky. Single malts are also influenced by the local peat that may stoke the fires at the distillery. For this reason Scotland’s bleak islands, its green glens, its lowland pastures and rolling northern moors all contribute to the unique flavour of each and every whisky. The barrels in which ageing takes places also influence that flavour, No wonder no two whiskies ever taste the same. Nowadays six whisky producing regions are recognised in Scotland although they are hugely different in size. “Lowland” is an area scarce in distilleries between Edinburgh and Glasgow, conversely “Highland” is really four massive regions – North, East, West and Central – that are found to the north of Lowland. Then there is “Speyside”, a tiny area between the Grampian Mountains and the Moray Firth, which is as densely overpopulated by distilleries as Lowland is underpopulated. Meanwhile to the west – and only eleven miles from the coast of Northern Ireland – lies “Islay”, a single island that is home to eight major distilleries. Campbeltown – once the whisky capital of the world but which ironically almost closed up shop in the twentieth century – sits nearby on the mainland. Finally there is the region known as “The Islands” which comprises every other island distillery that isn’t on Islay itself. If you are confused then just to make matters more complicated the Scotch Whisky Association officially lumps all the islands – except Islay – into the Highland region. Conversely, many whisky experts subdivide the Highlands into four separate inner regions. There is no simple appellation system for Scottish Whisky. Because each region has its individual qualities the Scotch Whisky Experience in Edinburgh offers a very accessible 50-minute audio-visual crash course (with tastings) that explains whisky and its regional characteristics. But nothing beats the experience of visiting a distillery and having the magic explained to you in situ. All that polished, complex bespoke equipment inside can cause

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OBAN IN THE HIGHLANDS

Founded in 1794 by two brothers, this distillery passed through many hands down the centuries and occasionally fell “silent”. Today Oban is one of Scotland’s smallest distilleries, producing a single malt typical of the West Highlands, drier and smokier than the light, sweet malts of other Highland regions. This old grey stone building sits near a busy quayside and looks rather forbidding from the outside, but there is a very friendly new visitor centre within.  obanwhisky.com

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Where to stay

The Airds Hotel is a small gourmet-dining country house 19 miles to the north of Oban on the shores of Loch Linhe. It was originally an inn for drovers bringing their cattle from the islands but is now one of the most comfortable hotels in the area, celebrated for its excellent food and for its tranquil views across to the Morvern Peninsula.  airds-hotel.com

the mind to boggle. What do the grist mill, mash tun, washbacks and copper pot stills actually do? What is a spirit receiver and why is it kept locked? And why do all of these pieces of Heath-Robinson invention look so different? The byzantine machinery of each distillery is as individual as the taste of the whisky it produces. Finally, the great thing about a whisky tour is that it unleashes a terrible thirst and that is what the tasting room at the end of the visit is designed to sate. There are so many distilleries to enjoy in Scotland – far too many for the average visitor to ever reach – but here is our selection of just one from each region. à

GLENKINCHIE IN THE LOWLANDS

There aren’t many distilleries around the Scottish capital but Glenkinchie, set in undulating farmland 15 miles to the southeast of Edinburgh is the nearest. Founded in 1825, the distillery went through uncertain times before being completely rebuilt in 1881. In 2013 it was awarded Scotland’s prize for Best Lowland Single Malt. This picturesque brick building is an easy-going place to visit and its whiskies have distinct grassy sweetness on the palate.  malts.com

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Where to stay

The Balmoral Hotel stands commandingly above Edinburgh’s Waverley Station and is famous for containing the room in which JK Rowling completed her last Harry Potter novel. It’s a slow drive out to Glenkinchie, but when you get back to Edinburgh make sure to spend an evening with one of the hotel’s kilted Whisky Ambassadors who will help you enjoy whisky as never before.  roccofortehotels.com

LAGAVULIN ISLE OF ISLAY

Dating from 1816 and housed in a sequence of white-washed buildings with a distinctive twin-towered roof, Lagavulin has a long-running rivalry with the nearby Laphroaig distillery. Although the two distilleries are only a mile apart, the water and the peat each uses are sufficiently different to create two very distinct whiskies. The 16-year-old Lagavulin is considered by many to be the benchmark for a great Islay whisky.  malts.com

WE LOVE

Where to stay

Recently reopened, The Machrie Hotel is set in the dunes of Islay, six miles from Lagavulin village. Its 47 bedrooms have views across island’s peat plains, over the hotel’s own golf course or as far as the remote Mull of Oa peninsula. Seven miles of pristine beaches and the opportunity to spot white eagles, puffins, short-eared owls and waders make this an hotel for wildlife enthusiasts as well as golfers and whisky-lovers.  campbellgrayhotels.com

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CARDHU SPEYSIDE

Started as an illicit still in 1810 by the whisky smuggler John Cumming, Cardhu became respectable when Johnnie Walker & Sons of Kilmarnock became a regular purchaser of its single malts to go into their famous blend. Eventually in 1893 Cumming’s daughter-inlaw sold the distillery to Johnnie Walker on the condition that the family could continue its day-to-day running of the stills. A company myth runs that spiders in the tun room have always had a beneficial effect on the fermentation process and this has led them to being a protected species at the distillery.  cardhudistillery.com

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Where to stay

Cardhu Country House is a former manse half a mile from the distillery. It offers just six bedrooms with salmon and sea trout fishing nearby. The house is at the heart of Speyside’s Malt Whisky Trail, a unique signposted tour that visitors can follow to eight local distilleries, including Dallas Dhu which is now a whisky museum and visitor centre.  cardhucountryhouse.co.uk

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DONT MISS HIGHLAND WHISKY FESTIVAL

A new annual celebration of the established Highland Whisky Trail.  highlandwhiskyfestival.co.uk

GLEN SCOTIA CAMPBELTOWN

Campbeltown was once the powerhouse of Scottish whisky production with over 30 distilleries. Unfortunately, Prohibition in the United States wrecked its export market. These days the region is rebuilding with three revitalised distilleries. Glen Scotia, founded in 1834, is one of the smallest distilling operations in Scotland with just seven employees. Five single malts are produced here, including the Victoriana, a modern recreation of their classic Victorian Single Malt. Exposing the casks to the unique salty sea air of Campbeltown during ageing is said to contribute to the whisky’s distinctive taste.  glenscotia.com

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Where to stay

Carradales Luxury Guest House Fourteen miles north along the coast from the Glen Scotia Distillery sits this cosy four-bedroom Victorian guest house warmed by log fires. The nearby fishing village of Carradale has its own golf course plus a local bus that goes five times a day into Campbeltown itself.  carradales.com

TALISKER

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Where to stay

Twenty miles north of Talisker stands Skeabost, a In 1960 when fire destroyed former hunting lodge that was most of Skye’s most famous rebuilt for comfort in 1871. distillery, its five uniquelyWith the River Snizort running shaped stills – odd-looking through its grounds this is the might be a less diplomatic perfect place for salmon and word – were rebuilt in exacting trout fishing. It is also the only detail. Everyone agreed that hotel on Skye with its own golf the shape of the stills might course. The recent renovation has somehow be responsible for blended the original Victorian the whisky’s unique spicy features with contemporary flavour. furniture and tweeds in dramatic A maritime location primary colours. alongside Loch Harport also  skeabosthotel.com affects the taste in a subtle way. Talisker was much enjoyed by Robert Louis Stevenson who praised the whisky in his poem “The Scotsman’s Return from Abroad”. Today Talisker is held by many to be the quintessential Islands Whisky.  malts.com

THE LOWDOWN GETTING THERE

British Airways fly to Edinburgh and Glasgow several times a day from Heathrow, Gatwick and London City airports with single fares from as little as £35.  ba.com plane

INTRODUCTION

For the most user-friendly introduction to Scots Whisky visit The Scotch Whisky Experience next to Edinburgh Castle: 354 Castlehill, 0131 220 0441 scotchwhiskyexperience.co.uk

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THE ISLE OF SKYE

Mull of Galloway Lighthouse

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Images in this feature are Â©VisitScotland/Kenny Lam/Paul Tomkins

ITINERARIES

SOUTH WEST COAST 300

Scotland

Jessica Way explores the magnificent beauty of the south west coast of Scotland, discovering some of the finest hotels to stay in and places to visit along the way

OU'VE PROBABLY ALREADY heard of Scotland’s North Coast 500, a circular route around the northern top of Scotland from and to Inverness, and now, more recently, the South West Coastal 300 route has launched, a stunning drive of just over 300 miles, firmly placed on the travel itinerary wish-list for tourists looking to experience their own slice of Scotland. There is no one way to travel and explore either the NC500 or SWC300, the choice of where you start, and finish, is yours too. Both scenic driving routes cover several hundred miles, and you could easily spend weeks at a time exploring a single stretch of the coast, and still feel you have only just scratched the surface. The choice of spectacular white sandy beaches, pretty coastal towns and villages, and landscapes filled with soaring mountain views, makes discovering your own coastal adventure as easy as the coastal breeze itself. Much of the west coast, although sometimes exposed to the whims of the North Atlantic weather, is shielded by the inner isles, with easy access to island-hop across to the likes of Arran, Islay, Jura, Mull, Iona and Skye - making our only touring challenge avoiding island temptation and sticking to our pre-planned route!

EDINBURGH TO DUMFRIES Flying from Southampton to Edinburgh our SWC300 journey began with a pleasant two-hour drive south to Dumfries, known as the ‘Queen of the South’. Picking up our hire car from the airport (we used enterprise.co.uk) was straightforward, and touring by car is made easy in Scotland. In addition to the motorways and good main roads, there is an excellent network of lightly trafficked rural roads, as well as strong signposting for the main tourist routes. While driving look out too for the many brown ‘Thistle Signs’ by the road that point the way to all kinds of walks, trails, attractions and adventures. About half way on this journey we stopped to see Scotland’s Highest Village – Wanlockhead. Sitting at an altitude of 467 metres, and home to The Museum of Lead Mining, which tells the story of the local industry and allows you to go down a former working mine. There’s also a lovely tea room serving pasties, homemade soup, scones, cakes and other light bites. Once in Dumfries itself we really enjoyed visiting the Robert Burns House (robertburns.org). Now a free museum, with friendly volunteers and a donations box, it was previously the house in which Robert Burns lived à

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Kirkcudbright Harbour and Marina

and where he wrote some of his best poems. There are many of his most famous quotes to read and inspire, and a lovely touch is seeing the inscription of his initials scratched into the window pane of his bedroom. Enjoying a day of culture, our next visit was to the fabulous new visitor centre, Moat Brae (peterpanmoatbrae.org), described by author J.M. Barrie as his 'enchanted land' – and the place where Peter Pan, and the imagination within his stories, was born. Moat Brae itself was originally the home of J.M. Barrie’s school friends Henry and Stewart Babbington – with his own house just a few hundred metres away – Barrie is quoted to say “I was more in that house (Moat Brae) more than any other in Dumfries” and himself acknowledged Moat Brae as being his inspiration behind Neverland. Ten years of fundraising and restoration work has gone into turning this impressive, historically significant Georgian house, and gardens, into a modern, light, freeflowing, interactive museum space. You should definitely make a visit if you are passing by Dumfries – we were really impressed. It has been achieved beautifully – while remaining sympathetic to the original features. Inspiring imagination and creativity is at the heart of the museum – which aims to inspire and offer new opportunities to children (and young people) interested in creative writing and literacy. With the local community and many passionate people behind the project, I am sure the museum will be a huge success for Scotland. We rested our heads for the night at the Cairndale Hotel and Leisure Club (cairndalehotel.co.uk) where we enjoyed a delicious four course Table d’Hote dinner in the Reivers Restaurant. Following a morning visit to the hotel's own private leisure club, The Barracuda Club, where they offer a range of beauty treatments including holistic and aromatherapy therapies, and a hearty full Scottish breakfast, we were back on the road. ROCKLIFFE TO PORTPATRICK In search of some sea-side tranquillity and fresh sea air we headed south towards the Solway Firth. Our first stop of the morning was at the pretty, quiet coastal village of Rockliffe – a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded in parts by large rocks and rock pools, lined with rows of pretty white-stone and pastel cottages. There is a large car park just before you reach the bay or limited 20-minute parking at the beach itself. For us that was enough time to soak up the views and enjoy an ice-cream. On less sunny days when the ice-cream van stays at home (we were lucky with the weather – and mine was a 99!) there is also a curios/antiques shop which serves takeaway coffees that can be enjoyed sitting out on the green. If you enjoy walking, there is a superb linear coastal walk linking Rockcliffe to the east - with Sandyhills, a picturesque sandy beach - said to be one of the finest 50

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“Our first stop of the morning was at the pretty, quiet coastal village of Rockliffe – a beautiful sandy bay, surrounded in parts by large rocks and rock pools, lined with rows of pretty white-stone and pastel cottages.”

The Harbour Cottage Gallery in Kirkcudbright

cliff walks in Britain with stunning clifftop scenery and views across the Solway Firth to Cumbria and the Isle of Man. There is also an infrequent bus service leading back to the start – so if you wanted to give your legs a rest there’s no need to walk. Heading in the opposite direction (west) there is a more manageable mile-long Jubilee Footpath linking Rockliffe to Kippford – a charming waterside location with several places to choose from for lunch. Known as the Solway Riviera, popular with yachtsmen, Kippford is lined with granite and white-washed houses, colourful cottages, a gift shop and café. We choose The Anchor pub (which also has rooms) for a locally sourced fresh seafood platter, and crab sandwich washed down with a refreshing juice.

Back in the car we continued our journey west towards Kirkcudbright, passing Dundrennan Abbey - dating back to 1142, and previously a Cistercian monastery - and where Mary Queen of Scots spent her final night in Scotland back in 1568. It was also close to here where we drove past a 35 foot Wickerman, which I am fairly certain must have been on the grounds of East Kirkcarswell Farm, in memory of the Wickerman Festival, and founder, Jamie Gilroy who was tragically killed by gunshot to his head in December 2014. The music festival, which had been held at his farm since 2001, had become world-famous – likened to a smaller version of Glastonbury – it attracted the likes of Scissor Sisters, James, The Proclaimers and many more.

Traditionally the festival would end at around midnight with the burning of a giant wickerman built by local craftsmen Trevor Leat and Alex Rigg. The designs for these became ever more elaborate and inventive over the years. Kirkcudbright, known as 'Scotland's Artists’ Town', made a quirky stopping point. It was easy to park, and we enjoyed looking in the new Kirkcudbright Gallery and some of the independent craft shops and galleries. There’s an interesting harbour where you can get ice-cream and fish and chips, and an old-fashioned looking petrol station where we filled up the car. Next we crossed the bridge over the River Dee and drove alongside the shore past the beautiful Dhoon beach with its views of Little Ross Island and its lighthouse. Continuing along the B727 via Borgue we joined the A75 and took a divert to explore Gatehouse of Fleet – and I am so pleased we did. Here we discovered the less-well known Carrick Bay and Knockbrex viewing point – a stretch which has been voted ‘Favourite Beach in Dumfries and Galloway’, but is still quiet from tourism. A hidden gem – not completely hidden of course, after-all ‘we’ found it - but there was hardly a car, or soul, in sight. The sea level was so low we could have walked across to Mossyard, had there been time, but we did enjoy walking barefoot on the sand and dipping our toes in the sea. Continuing along the A75 passing Creetown, the route took us to Newton Stewart (another great stopping point for shops and cafés) and with stunning views of the Galloway Hills and Wigtown Bay. From here it is just over an hour’s drive to Scotland`s most southerly point - the remote Mull of Galloway – where you can delight in views of the Galloway Hills, Lakeland Fells, the Isle of Man and even the Mountains of Mourne. This is one of the highlights of the route and somewhere you could spend several hours simply soaking up the atmosphere and views! Climb the 115 steps to the top of the fabulous Mull of Galloway Lighthouse, where a spectacular view from the balcony and lightroom will reward you for your efforts! Pop in to the Gallie Craig award-winning cliff top coffee house or make time for a visit to the RSPB Nature Reserve. From here re-trace your route and, just before Drummore, follow the signs for Port Logan. Here we turned à

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Pictured left; Portpatrick Harbour Kirkcudbright. Pictured below and opposite page; 5 Star Luxury Hotel, Glenapp Castle.

right, and, after a couple of miles, rejoined the A716 northwards. Port Logan has another beautiful beach and nearby is ‘Scotland's most Exotic Garden’ – Logan Botanic Garden. From here you are not very far from Portpatrick, where you will find several bars and restaurants on the harbourside, pastel-coloured houses, set around a small bay with cliffs forming the backdrop. GLENAPP AND GALLOWAY FOREST PARK From Portpatrick we headed north past Stranraer onto the A77 along the coast of Loch Ryan to Cairnryan where we could see the ferries sail from terminals at each end of the village across to nearby Northern Ireland. Shortly afterwards we arrived in 5-star paradise for our next overnight stay - easily one of the most beautiful hotels in Britain. Glenapp Castle Hotel is ideally situated on the South West Coast 300 route – and an absolute must (if your budget allows). Let the team take care of your itinerary for a couple of days – they’ve just launched an exciting and unique variety of experiences from mountain biking, archery, private falconry displays, stargazing, golf, whisky tastings – there’s even ‘forest bathing’. The castle itself, built in 1870, is a strikingly beautiful example of the Scottish baronial style of architecture. Designed by the celebrated Scottish architect David Bryce 52

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“We arrived in 5-star paradise for our next overnight stay - easily one of the most beautiful hotels in Britain.”

for Mr. James Hunter, the Deputy Lord Lieutenant of Ayrshire, the castle’s mellow sandstone battlements are topped by soaring turrets and towers, earning Glenapp a rightful place as one of the most romantic castles in Scotland. In January, the castle took delivery of their new boat, the ‘Glenapp Castle’ which can take up to eight guests on private sea safaris exploring the stunning clear waters, remote beaches and the amazing sealife and birds they are blessed with on their doorstep. In addition to this, the castle has stunning gardens and grounds for you to explore and enjoy at your leisure, including the wooded Glen walk. You are warmly encouraged to take a map, jump into a pair of Hunter boots, and grab a Glenapp jacket, before heading out to enjoy the sights, sounds and scents of thirty-six acres of castle grounds. You could easily spend an afternoon strolling the carefully tended lawns and pathways, surrounded by the vast array of exotic plants that have been collected since Victorian days. We enjoyed taking a stroll through their beautiful walled gardens, where we came across their wonderful Italian garden, designed by Gertrude Jekyll, and a historic Victorian glasshouse – currently being restored by talented craftsmen to its former glory. In time this will be a wonderful space where they will grow more of their own fruit and vegetables. And that’s not the only improvements being made at this incredible hotel – there’s also the excitement of the imminent launch of their 4-bedroom penthouse

apartment, sure to rival some of the finest private suites in the world. I was given a sneak-peek, hard-hat tour, of the conversion, starting with a trip up the beautiful spiral staircase (in the castle's turrets) which links the bedroom suites and reception rooms, as well as leading guests to the private roof terrace with 360 degree views over the surrounding countryside and coastline. And what a view – I was told you can see as far as Ireland on a clear day! This space will be perfect for small groups... there's also a drawing room which can be used for private dining, a sitting room, games room, kitchen, sauna and beauty treatment room, along with an astonishing master bedroom suite boasting more magnificent views. Glenapp Castle Hotel is also the perfect base for exploring the Galloway Tourist Route (from National Trust Scotland). This route, stretching through the lush countryside of Dumfries & Galloway and into Ayrshire, in the very heart of Burns’ country, takes in Gretna Green before continuing on to Dumfries (where we started our tour). From Dalbeattie you then venture through the

beautiful Galloway Forest Park, just a 40 minute drive inland from Glenapp Castle Hotel, and an absolute must for spotting wildlife – 774 km² of unspoilt countryside with many rare and endangered species, including red deer and wild goats, and can you believe it, a fifth of all of Scotland’s red squirrels! There are three visitor centres, and the option to choose from two scenic Forest Drives; either follow in the footsteps of Robert the Bruce or take a picnic beside a peaceful loch. The area is also Scotland’s first Dark Sky Park – and one of the best places to stargaze in Europe. Some of the guests staying at Glenapp look on the castle as their home away from home, with many repeat visitors, who have been guests for several years. Between receiving the finest quality of hospitality, in an atmosphere of peace, tranquillity and relaxation – nothing is too much trouble for their staff who are ready and eager to be at your service. The staff were exemplary - always offering to go the extra mile to make your stay as enjoyable, and memorable, as possible. For such a grand castle – surrounded by 12,000 acres of Lord Inchcape’s Glenapp

Estate – it is refreshingly unpretentious too. Currently there are 17 luxurious and spacious suites and bedrooms, each individually furnished with a unique combination of fabrics, art and antiques. We stayed in a Junior Suite, situated in the East Wing of the castle, furnished in grand stately Victorian décor, complete with fireplace, large windows, and a luxurious marble bathroom. For our evening meal we chose the six course gourmet menu – courses included Spinach and Quail’s Egg, Duck Foie Gras Bonbon and Fillet of Loch Duart Salmon – finished off at the end of the evening with a warming dram of whisky in the lounge! The food and service was flawless, and unobtrusive – a lovely evening. AYRSHIRE AND SANQUHAR Following our wonderful stay at Glenapp Castle we were back on the road, a downhill coastal route heading towards Ballantrae, with beautiful views, and where we had our first proper glimpse of Ailsa Craig - a volcanic (extinct) island famed for the granite used for curling stones, and home to over 40,000 sea birds with a summit of 1,100 feet. à

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SO U T H WE ST COA ST 30 0

A view towards Turnberry Lighthouse and Ailsa Craig from the 8th green of the new King Robert the Bruce golf course at Trump Turnberry, Ayrshire

As we entered Ballantrae we took a left turn, pausing for a moment, to take in the stunning views of Ailsa Craig, and Arran, lying just offshore from the harbour. We then followed the A77 along the coast for another half an hour where we reached Turnberry, then on to the A719 – and our next destination, another triumphant 5-star hotel within this glorious stretch of coastline – the iconic Trump Turnberry Resort. Known throughout the world for its incredible championship links golf courses – there’s an entirely different vibe here from Glenapp, less personal, more energetic, however it’s another fabulous choice – especially if you love golf and sporting activities. Trump Turnberry is home to three exceptional golf courses, the Open Championship Ailsa course, King Robert the Bruce and the Arran – giving it the accolade as one of the finest golf resorts anywhere in the world. There’s also a fantastic onsite activity centre, Turnberry Adventures, offering guests a variety of activities including, archery, horse riding, quad bike safaris, mini highland games and water zorbing. Naturally there's a 54

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luxurious spa, offering a range of ESPA treatments, and a lovely swimming pool where we enjoyed a refreshing dip. Trump Turnberry has over 100 years of heritage and history – and, with the gleaming white-washed buildings and immaculate lawns, golf courses, lighthouse and amazing sea views, the resort is an impressive sight. Resident Piper, Bryce McCulloch’s Scottish Bagpipe music added to the spirited ambience. The ‘big news’ for the resort this year is the launch of their stylish new collection of nine two-bedroom cottage suites lovingly restored, following a £1.6 million investment, back to their full glory. The Cottage Suites, dating back to 1902, have been elegantly designed and furnished – the interiors, inspired from the surroundings and rich heritage, have many of the signature Turnberry touches you would expect, combining a timeless, cosy interior with modern functionality. The suites offer a self-contained private haven for guests – with all of the perks of a traditional hotel suite, yet with even more space. A great option for families, with cots, high chairs and stair gates available, and/or

Culzean Castle from Croy Shore, South Ayrshire. Picture Credit: Paul Tomkins

The Cottage Suites at Machrie Lodge Lounge

dog owners, designed to be dog friendly, with gourmet treats, plush dog beds, water bowls and toys available on request. There’s a wide choice of unique dining experiences, including the signature restaurant 1906, which takes its name from the year Turnberry opened; an elegant Grand Tea Lounge and Bar, home to the opulent afternoon tea; and Duel in the Sun restaurant overlooking the legendary Ailsa golf course. We opted for 1906, which offers classic dishes with a modern twist. Here we enjoyed a lovely meal, and as the sun set, out came our unique Chef’s Table experience – our Orkney beef steak diane, one of their signature dishes, being cooked to our preference at our table. Dessert was another timeless classic, 1906 Crepe Suzette, flambéed at our table side before being served with Grand Marnier, orange and vanilla ice cream. Our waitress was lovely – very warm and chatty, and enjoyed telling us how lucky she felt to have her job at Trump Turnberry – a step up from her previous job, she told us, where she’d been serving fish and chips. The surrounding area offers even more to explore – from castles to distilleries, from beaches to the birthplace of Robert Burns – you could spend several days or more exploring Ayrshire. Back on the road we passed the entrance to Culzean Castle and drove down the ‘Electric Brae’ where your car appears to be rolling uphill! Onwards the road approaches Dunure with more jawdropping views of Arran. A detour of a mile or so from here brings you to Dunure Village - a pretty harbour and the extensive ruins of its 13th Century Castle and Dovecote. Return to the A719 from where it’s a short distance to Alloway, a suburb of Ayr and famed for being the birthplace of Robert Burns and the setting for his epic poem, Tam o’ Shanter. Our final stop – here we visited Burns Cottage and Burns Birthplace Museum, housing his life’s work, before heading back on the road for the airport. An endlessly fascinating region of Scotland. We loved the variety of quaint coastal villages, diverse landscapes, and culturally inspiring attractions in this single stretch of coastline. It was an extraordinary journey that has given us an appetite for more. Missing the haggis already, the more rugged NC500 route is now firmly in our sights. u

F O R M O R E I N F O R M AT I O N O N VISITING SCOTLAND, PLEASE VISIT  VISITSCOTLAND.COM

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NEW TOURING ROUTE

G R E AT W E S T W AY

London to Bristol

This summer marks an exciting moment for luxury travel in the UK with the opening of England’s first ever touring route, destined to become one of the premier routes in Europe, and probably the world

ORMING A BROAD corridor on either side of the historic King’s Road’ (known as the ‘A4’ today), the Great West Way links two of England’s foremost historic port-cities; London in the east, and Bristol in the west. This road has been one of the most important routes in England for almost two millennia. At around 125 miles in total length, the Great West Way passes through, or close to, some of the most spectacular and fascinating landscapes, locations, attractions, history, experiences and cultural highlights that England has to offer. From the prehistoric to the ultra-modern, from rural idylls to urban jungles, the Great West Way offers curious, inquisitive travellers the opportunity to go way beyond the routine tourist experience and connect with England more powerfully and authentically than ever before. For those with the requisite resources, time and interest, it’s the perfect way to discover England, in luxury, unhampered and at a pace that is relaxed and immersive. With so much on offer, creating the perfect itinerary for you won’t be difficult, but here’s mine... Starting in London, the Great West Way begins in the heart of the historic City. As it heads west out of the city through Richmond and Twickenham, it passes

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Buckingham Palace, well outside the city when first built, past the Ritz, before escaping the capital through Windsor and the suburbs and satellite towns that orbit London’s west flank. An ideal starting point for exploring the Great West Way, especially for those having just arrived from overseas, is The Langley, a recently opened 5-star hotel just on the outskirts of London, only 10 miles from Heathrow. Destined to become one of England’s most prestigious country hotels and originally the Duke of Marlborough’s hunting lodge (ie the Churchills), The Langley recalls the character, charm and elegance of an imperial age whilst offering the comfort, service and facilities of a contemporary 5-star hotel. The rooms are sumptuously yet tastefully decorated, the spa complex is stunning, and the hotel boasts a signature restaurant, bar and exquisite afternoon tea. However, for food lovers, Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck is just a mere 20 minutes away and offers one of the most extraordinary culinary experiences in the world, and one that people travel across the world to experience. As such, booking far in advance is a necessity. Assuming an overnight stay at The Langley, a visit to Windsor and its famous castle may be an essential stop for some. Personally, Eton, on the opposite à

Words | Jules Mittra

Mounted police officers at Windsor Castle

Pictured above: Eton High Street; Pictured below: Eton College; Pictured opposite page top to bottom-right: Highclere Castle signage and exterior; West Kennet Long-barrow; Great Bedwyn, and the Avebury Stone Circle

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bank of the river Thames and connected to Windsor by a pretty foot-bridge, is a more enticing, enchanting and less crowded prospect. Home to Eton College one of the world’s most prestigious and oldest schools, both the town and the school are fascinating places to visit. Call the College up ahead and it is often possible to find times to visit the school or at least parts of it, including the 1400s King’s Chapel, often guided by one of the scholars, replete in his top hat and tails. However, the town is also worth perusing, if only for a stroll along its Victorian streets with stores that seem to have stood still in time: gentlemen’s outfitters with displays of fine hats, riding-coats and assorted gentlemanly attire, sweet shops with jars of hardboiled marvels. It may be obvious but travelling by car along the Great West Way provides the most flexible and simplest way of exploring the route; however, there’s no need for the transport to be any less interesting than the route itself. Whether you’d prefer to self-drive or enjoy the views from the back seat, there are plenty of options for hiring a classic British car for the trip from companies such as ‘Bespokes’, or ‘Vintage Classics'. Assuming Windsor and Eton are morning stops, the afternoon should offer something different. One such option would be a visit to Silchester. Silchester has to be one of the most incredible hidden gems along the Great West Way. Once a significant Roman town, it was

abandoned in the early 400s following the Roman army’s sudden departure, recalled in a vain attempt to save Rome from the barbarian hordes. Silchester’s walls were too long, and the site lacked a natural defensive location or adequate water supply, so its inhabitants seemingly abandoned it in favour of more secure Roman towns such as Bath and London. Today its walls, gatehouses, road plan and even amphitheatre are still visible, with the rest of the site left to grazing cattle and sheep. It’s an extraordinary place to visit; quiet, peaceful and evocative, and a great stop before making the short hop over to near-by Heckfield Place for another night of divine luxury. Continuing the journey west the following day, the route along the King’s Road/A4 provides passes you by historic town after historic town and achingly beautiful countryside. Fans of Downton Abbey may want to stop by Highclere Castle; it’s a busy stop today but a drive from that point to Marlborough takes in some of the most spectacular countryside in the south of England. Before arriving at Marlborough, the village of Great Bedwyn offers a myriad of incredible experiences. First is Wilton Windmill, a rare example of a maintained windmill, with private guided tours available and bags of flour to take home. For fans of the industrial era, one of the UKs most significant industrial treasures - the world’s oldest working steam engine at Crofton Beam Engines, is close by. Designed by Watt, the man who spurred the industrial revolution with the first efficient steam engine, this engine has been pumping water up for the nearby canal for over 200 years. Enjoy a private, guided tour before stopping for lunch at the award winning Three Tuns Freehouse. Whilst Stonehenge is recognised the world over, just twenty miles north of it lies another prehistoric UNESCO world heritage site that to me at least, is more awesome, mysterious and magical. Avebury Stone Circle is the largest stone circle or ‘henge’ anywhere

GRE AT WE ST WAY

“Silchester has to be one of the most incredible hidden gems along the Great West Way... It’s an extraordinary place to visit; quiet, peaceful and evocative” in Europe. Located within a gentle bowl of hill lines, its scale and location is truly awe inspiring. By way of comparison, Stonehenge’s diameter is approximately 98 metres, whilst Avebury’s is 347 metres across. And although we are fairly confident about Stonehenge’s purpose, Avebury’s remains a mystery. Touch its imperious stones and walk along its enormous earth-banks, built up out of the chalk spoil taken from the deep, wide ditches beneath and gaze upon the prehistoric monuments that dot the landscape all around it. Aside from the stone circle itself, Avebury also boasts several other fascinating prehistoric features nearby; the 2.5km stone avenue that links Avebury to the ancient Ridgeway path, Silbury hill, the largest man-made mound in Europe built over generations, similar in size to a contemporary Egyptian pyramid, and finally, West Kennet Long-barrow. This ancient burial chamber was first constructed over 5500 years ago and remained in constant use for over a thousand years. Step inside to discover remarkable Neolithic burial chambers and the detritus of modern-day druids and pagans who still enter the tomb to leave votive offerings of candles, corn dollies and ribbons in honour of the spirits. It’s a completely ethereal experience.

If a change of scene is required, perhaps a sensory experience like tasting some of the fine local produce would be desirable? Cheesemakers, Distillers, Artisan food producers can be found dotted across the region, but perhaps unexpectedly, so can wine-makers. England, not traditionally known for its wines, is fast developing as a wine producing nation. Its southern chalk soils are perfect bedding ground for champagne style varietals and the warming climate is rapidly making southern England a Goldilocks zone for such wines. It’s still very much a cottage industry, but outstanding vineyards are emerging across the Great West Way region. One such vineyard is a’Beckett’s Vineyard. Stop by for a private tour of the facilities, vines, process and of course, a wine tasting. As a contrast to the luxury hotel, a great alternative is a stay at a private rental. The Three Daggers Spa Barn. The Three Daggers was originally a simple coaching inn on the road at Edington, Wiltshire, but today, under the stewardship of a wealthy and passionate owner, it boasts one of the finest restaurants in the area, as well as its own craft beer brewery (which can be visited privately), a first-class farm shop filled with local produce and delicious delicacies and pickles no longer in common use. Most importantly however, is the accommodation itself. The Three Daggers has its own rooms, but also offers one of the most sumptuous, private and well-equipped private holiday rentals anywhere in the region. The Three Daggers Spa Barn is a complex of buildings for private hire that sits high above the road and inn below, looking across to the vale beyond. The vista is breathtaking; stunning hill-lines, fields, villages and distant towers and church spires fill the view. Enjoy a little tranquillity, quietly reading under soft light, on a comfy sofa whilst gazing across the view from the comfort of the glass-fronted barn that serves as the communal living à

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G R EAT W E ST WAY Pictured left-right: The Henge Shop, Marlborough; Great Chalfield Manor, Wiltshire and Caen Hill Locks at Devizes

“Bath also offers the perfect base from which to explore the local region – in essence, to discover England.”

area. Or clamber into the spa-pool at the very top of the property, enjoying a glass or two of champagne, as dusk falls on the scene below and the bubbling heated waters of the pool turn to steam as they meet the cool air above. Stonehenge is an ideal stop the following day; it’s a must-see but whilst ‘inner-circle access’ tours are possible, unless you plan on block-booking the entire 30 inner-access places, a guided tour with a knowledgeable expert offers a better experience. The newly installed path allows visitors to come within a few metres of the stones during regular hours whilst an inner-access tour means that you’ll always be struggling to keep the 20 plus other people out of your photos as they wander inside the circle. There’s also an incredible variety of options for venturing away from the wellknown as well. For those interested in grand historical houses, and breath-taking gardens,

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Images courtesy of greatwestway.co.uk

a visit to Great Chalfield Manor is a must. Owned by the same family who’ve held it since the early 1800s, it is now partially maintained by the National Trust so open to the public, but available for private viewings. Lunch or drinks on the lawn with Patsy and Robert is a spectacular experience worth investing in. However you choose to fill your day, the next stop is Bath, and there is no better way of heading into this fabulous historic town than by climbing aboard a narrow boat at Bradford on Avon and making the gentle cruise into Bath over a matter of four or so hours. The canal was built to facilitate the movement of goods in the industrial revolution but today, travelling the stretch of canal from Bradford on Avon to Bath offers one of the most relaxing and interesting experiences you could hope for. Say hello to other canal residents, stop at one of the pubs or cafés enroute, journey over great stone viaducts, through picturesque tunnels and deep locks, and pass creamy coloured stone rows of Georgian houses, emerging in the heart of Bath. There’s no better way to enter the city. When it comes to accommodation in Bath, there simply is no better choice than the Royal Crescent Hotel. Located at the centre of one of Europe’s most recognised and celebrated residential buildings, the hotel provides luxury, comfort and an oasis

of peace for visitors to this extraordinary city. Boasting period rooms and décor as befits a building that symbolised the zenith of Georgian architecture and British imperial confidence, the Hotel’s restaurant is firstclass as are its spa and facilities. Its greatest asset to me though, is its gardens. Located at the rear of the building and enclosed by the converted coach-houses behind, the hotel’s gardens are a hidden gem in themselves and the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon tea. Just minutes from all of the attractions of Bath, yet purposefully designed as a suburb to the city in the 1770’s, so that the residents could enjoy the pleasures of getting a sedan chair into, and out of town, the Royal Crescent Hotel offers the opportunity to stay in a world-famous heritage building, alongside the service, facilities and tranquillity expected of a 5-star hotel. Bath itself is a city that deserves a stay of several nights. Though it can be seen in a day, a more leisurely stay to explore its UNESCO world heritage protected architecture, incredibly well-preserved Roman Baths complex, majestic Abbey, and plethora of art galleries, small museums, restaurants, bars, streets, independent shops and one of the best theatres in the country, a single day in Bath is a little miserly. Bath also offers the perfect base from which to explore the local region – in essence, to discover England. Located at the southern tip of the Cotswolds, Bath is less than an hour from Stonehenge, Glastonbury, Cheddar Gorge, Bristol and Wales. The region is à

Descend into an expansive and eccentric land, populated with over 1,000 animals from all continents. Delve into 450 years of history spanning 16 generations of the Thynn family with Longleat House; one of the finest examples of Elizabethan architecture in Britain. Home to the UK’s original safari park established in 1966, Longleat is also the only animal collection in England to have southern koalas. Book online at longleat.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available.

Explore Gough’s Cave where the oldest, most complete skeleton in Britain, dating back 10,000 years, was discovered in 1903. Wander up the 274 steps of Jacob’s Ladder and then on to the highest, inland limestone cliff formation to find an abundance of wildlife including the rare Cheddar pink, then descend into the caves to marvel at the beautiful, natural rock formations. Book online at cheddargorge.co.uk and save up to 15%, group discounts also available.

Follow the paths taken by generations of travellers… Discover Longleat and Cheddar Gorge & Caves, both within easy reach of the Great West Way.

GreatWestWay.co.uk

Kids go FREE

EXPLORE THE GREAT WEST WAYÂ® WITH AN EXPERT GUIDE Chauffeur driven tours with a Blue Badge Guide

www.southwestdriverguide.co.uk | southwestguide@gmail.com

GRE AT WE ST WAY Pictured below left-right: The Cross Baths; Pulteney Bridge and river weir; Clifton suspension bridge; and Royal Ascot

teeming with history, landscapes, artisans, food and beverage producers, gardens, grand houses, steam railways and more. In fact, Bath and the region offer so many interesting choices for those looking to do something unique and different, from private dining whilst enjoying the historic ‘Cross Bath’, to enjoying private tours of its galleries or museums, to caving, boating, ballooning or a private steam train ride with dinner served in a historic dining car, Bath and the region offer almost anything you can imagine. Bath’s larger neighbour, Bristol, is the end point for the Great West Way, and is just as worthy of a stay as Bath. The two cities are connected by a 15 minute train ride, and are often seen as twin cities. If that is so, they are more Danny Devito and Arnold Scwartzenegger than identical siblings. Bristol, just inland from the mouth of the River Avon, was historically England’s second port (after London) until the industrial revolution made larger ships and deeper ports Liverpool, Glasgow and Belfast more relevant. Whereas Bath is small, genteal

and homogenous (both in its architecture and residents), Bristol is diffuse, edgy, industrial and creative. Bristol is a city of neighbourhoods and diverse experiences. It’s an incubator for art and creativity (Banksy, Wallace and Gromit, Portishead and the Chemical Brothers all originate in Bristol) but the city is also known for its industrial innovation; The world’s first suspension bridge, the world’s first fully steam powered screw-propelled steam ship as well as one of the few remaining Concordes all reside there. Whatever it is about ‘England’ that engages and excites you most, the Great West Way most likely has it and probably offers the best experience of it you’re likely to find. It is a true treasure trove of discoveries, possibilities and experiences. For those wishing to go beyond the generic and formulaic - and to do it in style… Welcome to the Great West Way. u Jules Mittra is the founder of Around and About Bath (aroundandaboutbath.com), an innovative tour company transforming the local travel experience: From sightseeing to discovery, meaning and connection. RESOURCES

Download a Great West Way map free from their website: GreatWestWay.co.uk/explore/maps Order a copy of the Great West Way Travel Magazine: isubscribe.co.uk

SUMMER EVENTS  R O YA L A S C O T

18-22 JUNE

Arguably England’s most famous – and grandest – horse racing event, with five days of races each kicked off by a royal carriage parade. This is your chance to wave at The Queen and to wear a fabulous hat!

ascot.co.uk  H E N L E Y R O YA L R E G A T T A

3 - 7 J U LY

Established in 1839, this annual regatta attracts rowing crews from around the world to its five days of head to head knockout competitions and is regarded as an integral part of the English social season.

hrr.co.uk  B AT H C A R N I VA L

1 3 J U LY

Bath’s biggest party features a procession of more than 1,000 dancers and musicians through the city plus plenty of world music on the sound systems and at Party in the Park in Sydney Gardens.

bathcarnival.co.uk  B R I S T O L I N T E R N AT I O N A L

B A L L O O N F I E S TA 8-11 AUGUST

Europe’s largest annual meeting of hot air balloons brings colour to the sky above Bristol with twice-daily mass balloon launches and the chance to take a ride yourself.

bristolballoonfiesta.co.uk

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IN FOCUS

PETWORTH

West Sussex

Jessica Way heads to Petworth, a picturesque market town nestled in the heart of the South Downs National Park, to discover that there’s much more to this stylish up-coming destination than the antique shops it's renowned for

NE HOUR FROM LONDON, this delightful historic town with its cobbled streets, hidden lanes and picturesque chocolate-box cottages, draped in wisteria, looks more like a quintessentially country-chic getaway than the stuffy old-fashioned history-buff’s treasure trove that I’d imagined it to be. I really had no idea; I am pleasantly surprised to see a town that has not simply relied on its history and heritage (of which it has a great deal), or the droves of Mayfair residents, (who flock to its antiques stores to furnish out their million-pound pads), to keep afloat. Petworth has moved with the times – and you certainly don’t need to be among the super-rich to enjoy it. You can enjoy a day here exploring the town by simply milling around, no need for your car or much in the way of forward planning (just the regular town map leaflet readily available to pick up) - and you won’t be likely to break the amount of steps record on your fitbit either. Nor will you be bored, go hungry, or feel thirsty – and this is what surprised me the most about Petworth. There is enough by way of tea rooms, modern gastro pubs, delicatessens, fashion and art shops, dotted around the little market square for a day of culture, shopping and first-class dining experiences – not to disappoint even that of a Sloane’s highstandards. Most recently, the New Street Bar & Grill opened its doors (last summer), previously a fine dining restaurant under the name of The Leconfield, now a stylishly modern, air-conditioned restaurant and bar, with pretty patio perfect for alfresco dining on warmer days.

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The menu focuses on fresh, top quality local ingredients cooked simply, to a high standard - with many local suppliers such as Nyetimber, Goodwood and Nutbourne on the menu. Expect quality British fare, from daily specials to classics, such as Marinated Kentish Lamb Rump and Locally Reared Sussex Beef from the grill, and amongst the starters, Crispy Squid Rings and Gressingham Duck Croquettes. Around the corner is 'The Hungry Guest Cheese Room' and if you didn’t know about it before you might first notice it on the New Street Bar & Grill dessert menu – not just their cheese, their biscuits too – in fact there’s a lot more to ‘The Hungry Guest’ story than just cheese and biscuits... They have a food shop, a butcher's, and a café in town – I visited all three and felt rather envious of the locals having such fabulous fare, artisan foods, and home-made produce within such easy reach of their daily lives. I am a fan of shopping ‘local’ for my meat, veg, butcher's and bakery goods, and here you are spoilt for choice. I was sure to fill up my shopping bags, and savour every mouthful of the Hungry Guest Breakfast from their café (Lombard Street just off the main square, they serve food here all day) – award winning sausage, dry cured bacon, slow roasted tomatoes, Portobello mushroom, poached eggs and sourdough toast. Their coffee, although not their own brand (it was Illy, awarded the most ethical coffee company in the world), was so good that I went back to their shop (in Middle Street) to buy some of my own. Back to the cheese – they have an exceptional collection of artisan and farmhouse, many sourced from the British Isles. à

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“There’s a plethora of walking trails to choose from, rolling countryside and open park spaces surround this town.”

The Cheese Room is lined with classics such as Cheddar, Stilton and Roquefort as well as less familiar cheeses, such as Bleu de Termignon and Brie de Meaux. Don’t be put off by the glass-sided walk-in doors either, you are encouraged to go in and ask questions (and taste the cheese). The doors are there to keep the humidity up and the temperature down, not the cheese-lovers out. There’s a Cheesemonger who will be there to offer you advice, and recommend accompaniments too… pickled cherries, truffle honey or fig paste anyone? From savoury to sweet – there’s also a traditional sweet shop well-worth a visit, Coco Café and Sugar Lounge, where oldfashioned sweet jars are filled with whimsical delights – bonbons, lollies, liquorice and lots more. Coco Lola – the ice cream van is open from April -October for ice cream, sundaes, knickerbocker glorys and sodas – and it

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also makes a great option for lunch offering more than the name suggests, served in the charming sugar lounge, designed to feel reminiscent of the film ‘Chocolat’. Aside from spending my time eating, I met many independent-shop owners, selling quirky gifts, art, and on-trend fashion, all within a short walk (or loop) from the central market square. Shopping here is a millionmiles away from the modern commercial high streets - and this is before I’ve even mentioned the word ‘antiques’. Petworth is internationally recognised as being a major hub for antiques, often being described as ‘The Antiques Centre of the South’. There are over 30 antique shops dotted around the town – with interior brand name, Augustus Brandt taking pole position – with both a showroom and lifestyle shop, each within easy walking distance of each other. Augustus Brandt's 7,500 square feet showroom is the jewel in the crown - an enticing destination store for home interiors, set within the inspirational surroundings of Newlands House, a spacious Georgian Grade II listed town house and adjacent coach house. Give yourself enough time to visit here – there’s over 17 different rooms to explore (open six days a week). Discover a carefully curated selection of objects, bridging antique and contemporary furniture, artworks, photography and collectables from renowned designers, such as Linley and William Yeoward. There is a room dedicated to Lucan Fashion country and shooting clothing and a new room promoting celebrated Brazilian furniture designer, Casa Botelho. There’s also an ever-expanding range of gifts and offerings, including Mungo and Maud pet accessories, Argentine home brand, La Claraz, and Italian leather store, Giobagnara. Then there’s the lifestyle store in Market Square – selling a gorgeous range of accessories, furnishings and gifts. You will find collections from brands such as David Linley, established by the Queen’s nephew, with gifts in wood, leather, glass and silver to the colourful Santorus ranges of bold and

colourful silk scarves and stationery. It was a beautifully crafted Quaternity Chess set which caught my eye, priced £1,500 (Instruction Book Included) but not yet having mastered the 2-player game I decided I was not quite ready for the 4-player version and resisted temptation, opting instead for a candle from the famous Cire Trudon, France’s oldest candle company, priced £75. With all this food and shopping choice, you might feel the need to walk it off, and with Petworth’s rural location, set in the heart of the South Downs National Park, you are in the right place. There’s a plethora of walking trails to choose from, rolling countryside and open park spaces surround this town. A favourite with the locals is Petworth Town and Shimmings Valley path (ifootpath. com), or for longer rambles try Pulborough to Petworth (walkingclub.org.uk). Then there’s Petworth Park itself. Wandering through the streets you are unlikely to go far without coming across a National Trust sign for Petworth House and Gardens. One of the country’s most famous stately homes, surrounded by a vast wall, which, according to the locals, was constructed to keep the servants in rather than the vagabonds out. Spanning 900 years of history and passing through just one family, Petworth House was built as to rival the palaces of Europe - a vast mansion set in a beautiful 283-hectare (700-acre) deer park, landscaped by ‘Capability’ Brown and immortalised in Turner’s paintings. You can step inside this English 'Versailles' for £15.90 for an adult/£8.00 for a child, and while the gardens adjoining the house are included in the entry fee, you can access a larger portion of them – known as à

HOLIDAYS IN HOMES OF DISTINCTION in Petworth and locally in the South Downs National Park

SOARING IMPOSING

For availability and choice of 20 cottages around Petworth and over 80 in the South Downs please visit our website or give us a call on 01798 877336 www.amberleyhousecottages.co.uk

Ancient Castle, Stately Home & Gardens for more details, call 01903 882173 or visit www.arundelcastle.org

FREE HOUSE • EAST DEAN

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Petworth Park – for free. Simply pass through the long tunnel and some rather grand iron gates to explore the 700-acre park at your leisure. WHERE WE STAYED Ryde House, on Angel Street, a newly refurbished three-bedroom Georgian villa tucked away almost secretly (by just a simple gate in the wall) from the quiet town - the shops, pubs, restaurants, butchers', bakery, and other yet-to-be discovered attractions, just a short stroll away from our front door. The property is grand and beautifully furnished, in fact it could nearly be mistaken for another of Augustus Brandt’s luxurious showrooms. Elegant and understated, an early 19th Century Grade II listed building full of charm and character. There's a pretty walled courtyard garden to welcome you before you reach the front door. Inside the interiors are just as grand, there’s a large sitting room, a dining room, light and spacious Shaker style kitchen, three cosy bedrooms and bathroom upstairs. There is plenty of room here to entertain, and to feel completely at home amid the antique rugs, woven tapestry, cosy cushions and fireplaces. Thought has been given to the details, with luxury touches, such as a delightful (yes you’ve guessed it Hungry Guest!) hamper of foodie treats waiting for you in the kitchen, fresh flowers in the dining room, to the selection of games, movies, books and music inviting you to start the wood burner, light the candles, and rejoice in the sitting room. High-ceilings, grand staircase and long passageways give the property a feeling of space and elegance, while the mix of antique furniture with modern styling, neutral

colours, and homely furnishings, is both relaxing and energising. Under the same ownership as Ryde House is the wonderfully stylish Angel Inn (practically next door) with origins as old as Petworth House, and where modern luxury comes as standard; this is another great option for breakfast, lunch or dinner. You can also stay here - there are seven beautifully designed guest rooms, medieval origins, reflected in original beams, fireplaces and quirky passageways. Aside from the architecture, food and luxury accommodation, Petworth is a destination of art, culture and music. To experience the town’s full zenith of community spirit, with proud locals displaying their ‘home-grown’ talent, then the Petworth Summer Festival, (16 July-3 August) is a must. See the town come alive with classical concerts, jazz, cabaret, theatre, comedy and visual arts. There are events all through the year, to include the pertinent Petworth Park Antiques and Fine Art Fair (10–12 May), Petfringe (12 April) comedy, the nearby Goodwood Revival (13-15 September) and Festival of Speed (4-7 July), and later in the year the Literary Festival returns (26 October-3 November). With all this just over an hour’s drive from London and only 30 minutes from the south coast, I’m surprised more people aren’t packing up their bags and heading to Petworth. Cultural treasures, locally farmed fare, stylish shops, beautiful countryside - It certainly ticked all the right boxes for me. u

PLACES TO VISIT P E T WO RT H H O U S E

Inspired by the Baroque palaces of Europe, a stately mansion nestled housing the finest art collection in the care of the National Trust.

nationaltrust.org.uk S O U T H D O W N S N AT I O N A L PA R K

From rolling hills to bustling market towns, the South Downs National Park's landscapes cover 1,600km2 of breathtaking views and hidden rural gems. A rich tapestry of wildlife, tranquility and visitor attractions.

southdowns.gov.uk C O W D R AY P A R K

The home of polo in the South of England. Enjoy a relaxed picnic lunch lawn side watching some of polo's highest rated players, or enjoy 18 holes on Cowdray's revered golf course.

cowdray.co.uk G O O D W O O D E S TAT E

The Goodwood Estate in the heart of West Sussex is not only home to world famous events, Festival of Speed, Goodwood Revival and the Qatar Goodwood Festival, there is also The Goodwood Hotel, Waterbeach Spa, two golf courses, and sustainable restaurant, Farmer, Butcher, Chef. Plus there are a number of driving and flying experiences for an unforgettable day out.

goodwood.com WEST DEAN GARDENS

Nestled at the foot of the South Downs, West Dean Gardens is one of the country's greatest restored gardens. Visitors can explore a wide range of historic features on a gentle walk around the grounds.

westdean.org.uk/gardens

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WEEKEND BREAK

FISTRAL BEACH N E W Q U AY

Cornwall

Cornwall is known for its stunning beaches, world-class surfing, fresh seafood and picturesque harbours. In pursuit of a taste of this summer-utopia, Jessica Way takes a family weekend break to Newquay's iconic Fistral Beach on the west coast

SURFERS PARADISE”. “But mum I can’t surf?” said my 15 year old daughter as we travelled the four hour car journey from Southampton. “It’s ok”, I reassured her, we’ll take a lesson together. We could have caught a flight (its just 40 minutes from London Gatwick to Newquay) but with four wet suits, bodyboards and beach towels filling up the roof rack, we made the right choice. The excitement levels rise as we reach the hotel, both daughters recognising the dramatic Victorian red brick immediately from one of their best-loved movies, The Witches, “

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from the book by Roald Dahl. We are staying at The Headland Hotel – where the Grand High Witch (Anjelica Huston) plotted to kill children, turning them into mice, and where the Hotel Manager (Rowan Atkinson) tried desperately to protect his hotels' reputation. We arrive to check in, though sadly it’s not with Rowan Atkinson, however we are told about him – “in real life he is just like Mr Bean…” the girls chuckle and Joshua (Front of House Operations Manager) continues… “On one occasion, he ran a bath, and went to bed without turning the taps off. The flood

reached the ground floor from his second-floor bedroom and all the equipment, the photocopier, electric typewriters, that were in the film’s production office (in the first-floor bedroom) were completely written off!”. The grand lounge is in view from the reception desk, accessible through a white-wooden panelled glass door frame. It invites us in to further explore the red carpet and stylish antique furniture; white beaming arches, high ceilings, chandeliers, fireplaces, and fabulous draping curtains around the great bay windows, where light is flooding in to the hotel. This is modern luxury - the grotty carpets and shoddy interiors are nowhere to be seen. “It’s rooms 223, 227 and 205 that were used in the movie” Joshua tells us. “(No, I’m sorry girls – that’s not where we are staying tonight)”. We are gently escorted to follow the porter back outside – and as we walk, we agree, any wide-eyed children looking around the hotel for mice today would be likely to fail.

as has its spa (the first ‘Five Bubble’ rated spa in the region) – and they are not stopping there. The overall ambition is huge, with the launch of a stunning new outdoor swimming pool and leisure complex planned for launch in 2020 – and more recently the announcement of their new 5-star self-catering cottages. Perched on a private clifftop, luxury cottages just yards from the UK's most famous beach? Yes please! We were lucky enough to be amongst the first to try them out. Designed to offer a more flexible, relaxed coastal experience, and as an alternative option to staying in one of the 95 bedrooms within the hotel, but still offering guests use of their hotel, spa and rosette-worthy dining. Like ours, most of the holiday cottages (there are 39 in total) offer ocean views, and outdoor spaces such as a deck, balcony or lawn, and I loved that seasonal and fresh farm à

WHERE WE STAYED The Headland Hotel and Spa are celebrating 40 years (in 2019) since the owners John and Carolyn Armstrong first bought the property. A labour of love – it has cost them around £30 million over four decades on improvements and repairs. Though this is an investment that has paid off; the multi-award-winning hotel has been completely transformed,

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As featured on our front cover!

Pictured left: Enjoying lunch on the terrace at The Headland Hotel

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produce could be delivered direct to your door. The interior is as awesome as the waves from the sea below, surf-inspired, coastal chic, with luxury touches throughout – as well as practicality, such as having a large area for hanging and drying your wetsuit. There’s a modern, beachy, sky blue and turquoise green colour scheme, complimented by crisp white paint work, contemporary artwork, painted wooden shutters, light oak furniture, bright flowers, colourful fruit bowls, and stylish candles splashing vibrant colour throughout the large open plan kitchen and living area. Light and airy – and the views are spectacular. You need to walk across the hotel car-park to get to the spa, located at the rear of the hotel, but they are happy for you to stroll around in your dressing gown and slippers. The spa includes six stylish treatment rooms, to include a VIP suite, Rhassoul mud chamber and Swedish sauna, there’s also a Cornish salt steam room, hot tub, aromatherapy showers,

hydrotherapy pool and state-of-the-art gym. I escaped to enjoy a lovely 40 minute Indian Head Massage, then it was time to hit the beach. THE PERFECT WAVE Forget Maui and Malibu, Newquay's famous Fistral Beach has some of the best breakers around. Between autumn and spring surfers can test their skill with impressive swells known to reach up to 12 feet high. This much-loved beach is known as being one of the most consistent and best surfing beaches in Europe. Summer is perfect for beginners to have a go though, with 1-4ft waves gracing the shoreline. Surfing aside, it’s a beautiful long and sandy beach, backed by dramatically beautiful rocks and cliffs. It’s a great allrounder, perfect for strolling, sunset-watching and sandcastles, as well as being home to a number of restaurants, including Rick Steins famous fish & chips (or try the take-away Pad Thai Pictured left: Jessica's husband and daughters outside The Headland Hotel overlooking Fistral Beach

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noodles – delicious!) Another must try is the Fistral Beach Pasty Shack, serving one of the best Cornish Pasties you will find in Cornwall - simply, delicious food. So although Fistral Beach has earned its place as the destination choice of many competitions and festivals in every surfer's competitive and social calendar, it is also a friendly, lively, picturesque spot, welcoming to everyone – including those who, like me, are in search of their first taste of wavefuelled excitement. First, we head down to the Surf Sanctuary to get kitted out for these wave-riding endeavours. The Headland offers introductory surf classes, hire, and improver and private lessons, as well as coasteering, kite surfing and stand-up paddle boarding. We opt for straightforward surfing… though we discover it's far from straightforward! Even the 4ft waves we find challenging. We spend more time practising our method on the beach than we do actually attempting the waves. However, it’s great fun, our instructor is fantastic, and we are enjoying the experience. By the afternoon we are back in the sea, full of grit and determination, and with a lot of super-fast arm paddling our persistence starts to show signs of paying off. The girls are

catching the occasional wave, while I am mostly on my knees, until finally I stand and, keeping my balance, don’t fall. It’s taken me what feels like a million attempts, but it’s all worth it for that one wave – incredible. I feel so alive, I can actually surf (well, kinda). DURING BOARDMASTERS Boardmasters Festival, held every August, (7-11 August 2019) is a great time to visit – the beach is transformed into a vibrant surf festival complete with installations, live music, Cornish food stalls and bustling surf shopping village. In fact, the festival has become so popular that it’s split between two iconic locations, Fistral Beach and Watergate Bay (a 20 minute drive from The Headland Hotel). During the festival, Watergate Bay is the home to the main music arena. With multiple stages, bars, foodie feasts, fest-stalls and rides, it’s a show-stopping music-lover’s haven. u

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INVESTOR

Panter & Hall. Donald Hamilton-Fraser RA (1929-2009) Study Spinnaker

MODERN BRITISH ART

Words | Emma Johnson

Buying something beautiful, that may eventually provide a return on your investment, is a great way to own a piece of British art history. And there has never been a more provident time to invest in Modern British Art Ă

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Pictured Left-Right: Banksy, The Kissing Coppers and Gladwell & Patterson, Francis Picabia, both featuring at Masterpice London 2019.

HE TREND FOR INVESTING in high net worth items such as wine, art and rare books is often fuelled by media headlines proclaiming huge profits from recent sales - Hugh Grant, for instance, pocketed an £11 million profit for selling an Andy Warhol, and more recently, in November 2018, a David Hockney painting made $90.3 million at auction. And, while it can be a good way to put your money into something that you love, and that may bring a decent return over time, experts warn that caution is still to be advised. “These kinds of profits are black swans in the every day world of art dealing,” says Matthew Hall, founder and director of Panter & Hall Gallery in London. This is not to say, however, that in general, areas of the art world cannot rise significantly in value. Tastes change and whole schools of painting or individual artists can be rediscovered through a new interior design trend, or the concerted efforts of a dealer with a vested interest. In addition, art lasts for hundreds of years, and in many cases outlives its owners; while the wide-ranging availability of art from different genres and artists, means all budgets are accounted for too. For the investor, those on a limited budget can invest in an emerging artist when their prices are low, while those with bigger budgets or more knowledge can choose to pick a painting at a good price, and at a good time. T H E C A S E F O R M O D E R N B R I T I S H A RT But what is the right time, or the right painting? For British art, it is now. British art has always been a fairly robust area of the art market, and it has consistently proven itself to be central to the art world. Modern 76

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“Remember that condition is everything. Always check the condition of a work and make sure to research any conservation or restoration work carried out. ”

British Art is a direct result of the wealth of talent in the UK, which has some of the most highly regarded art schools in the world and many of the world's most acclaimed galleries and museums. It has for centuries produced world-famous artists and continues to have an outstanding record for producing extremely talented new artists with investment potential. “Where better to acquire a work of art than from a country that continues to produce ground-breaking artists,” says Matthew Hall. Essentially covering the area of 20th century British paintings, sculpture and works on paper, Modern British Art has a solid international reputation. Typified by a wide-ranging approach to style and genre, covering two world wars and over a century of work, it is an era that continues to evolve, as many modern artists that don’t consider themselves ‘contemporary’ have fallen under the Modern British bracket. Key names include Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud, David Hockney, Barbara Hepworth, Howard Hodgkin, L.S. Lowry, Ben Nicholson, Henry Moore and Bridget Riley – while Frank Bowling, Stanley Spencer, Damien Hirst, Banksy, Anish Kapoor, Chris Ofili, Paula Rego, Rachel Whiteread and Gilbert and George also fall into this category. Today, Modern British Art has never been more popular, says Penny Day, director and head of sales for modern British and Irish art at Bonhams. “The field of Modern British Art has seen a real surge in recent years and I think collectors are drawn to it as representing good value for money. Unlike the fields of Impressionist or Contemporary Art, it is still possible

D AY-T R I P P E R

to acquire a really good example by a 20th Century British artist for under £100,000 and indeed prices can start from as low as £500. Demand has increased year on year and we see no likelihood of that changing.” What makes Modern British Art a good investment of course, is a finite supply of goods, and the fact that it is a relatively clear and easy to analyse area of art. There are tiers of star artists who can be graded and valued and minor acolytes who benefit from their associations. “The prevailing dealer hegemony ensures that the prices are generally supported both at auction and at fairs, and the scale of supply allows for future sustainability,” explains Hall. “What was an academic backwater is now, thirty years on, a truly global market and as blue chip as any art market can be at this level.” H OW TO I N V E ST B E PA S S I O N AT E As with many investments of this nature, your first consideration must be a passion for the subject, long before you consider profits. “Buy what you genuinely love and can afford and you should not go too far wrong,” says Robin Light, director of Crane Kalman Gallery in London. It is a view echoed by many of his peers. “As trite as it sounds, buy something you love,” continues Hall. “The chances are that you will be living with it for a very long time, so you may as well enjoy it.” Simon Tovey, associate specialist at Phillips action house in London, who also heads up their annual New Now show, echoes this sentiment, explaining that when

B E K N OW L E D G E A B L E Investing in art should also be a chance to indulge a passion or pique an interest. Try to focus your investment or collection on an area, medium or specific artist that you like; picking a theme or a name helps to keep things coherent, especially if you eventually want to sell a collection as a whole. Be appreciative of all there is to learn, and take time to become knowledgeable. “Go to museums, galleries, exhibitions and art fairs,” says Robin Light. “You will find that most curators, dealers and artists are interesting, good people. They will share knowledge and exchange useful information and views which, in turn, should help you to make the right decisions based on your experiences.” If you find an artist whose works you admire, look at previous prices achieved at auction (Artnet and Artprice are good tools for this) which can give you a good idea of the market value, and stop you from overpaying. “Always buy the best example you can budget for,” advises Simon Tovey. This might mean a great work on paper over a lesser painting, or it might mean a bigger painting over a smaller one that you prefer. “For a new collector, I would always say to go bigger if you can, so you’ll have a stand-out work,” says Rebecca Wilson, chief curator at Saatchi Art. Hall agrees with assessment, and cautions buyers to think not just about names, but quality too. “There is a temptation to buy a third-rate work by a first division artist, however it will always be a third-rate work. A first-rate work by a à

A Fine Yarn Painting by Alec Cumming

“Art is a question of taste. If you truly believe in one artist’s talent, you’ll be a great ambassador and will contribute to seeing their market value rise ”

you’re talking about an investment of this nature, money is simply not the only object. “I would advise that anyone looking to buy a work of art should treat it as a purchase, rather than as a financial investment. Buying artwork should be an emotionally rewarding investment and an enjoyable experience.” “Allow yourself to be guided by instinct,” adds Vera Kampf who heads up Singulart, an online art portal. “Art is a question of taste. If you truly believe in one artist’s talent, you’ll be a great ambassador and will contribute to seeing their market value rise.

ONES TO WATCH S TA N L E Y S P E N C E R

“An A-lister. Spencer’s record for an oil painting stands at nearly $10m and yet it is still possible to pick up drawings in the low thousands.” (Matthew Hall, Panter & Hall) IDRIS KHAN

“I can get lost in the depth and beauty of each of his creations be it a large scale print or an exquisite work on paper such as the one we recently sold.” (Simon Tovey, Phillips) E D S AY E

“I don’t think he has had the attention yet that he deserves and he’s a pretty special artist with a unique vision and great integrity and technique” (Sara Ryan, New Blood Art) ORLANDA BROOM

“She’s a British artist of distinction and experience, whose works have featured in many solo shows across the UK.” (Vera Kampf, Singulart) ALEC CUMMING

“Alec spends his time between the UK and India, and travel and new places play a big part in his works. His paintings are vibrant windows onto another world, evoking a strong sense of the distinctive light, sky, and colours of specific places.” (Rebecca Wilson, Saatchi Art) F RA N C I SZ K A T H E M E RS O N

“A highly talented Polish artist who relocated to London in 1940 and founded the influential Gaberbocchus Press with her husband, and developed her own distinctive style. (Angus Granlund, Christie’s)

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A place of luxury with a wealth of history. A A place place of of luxury luxury A place of luxury From the thriving designer shopping district of Mayfairof to thehistory. world’s most renowned art collections with a wealth A place of luxury with a wealth of history. and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest rooms, a tranquil with a wealth ofwith history. Park Room serving the British tradition of Afternoon Tea, JW Steakhouse, Corrigan’s Mayfair Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location.

with a wealth of history.

Welcome to JW Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park Lane and overlooking

or Ruya Londontofor culinary experiences. Everysituated detail of stay and withoverlooking us is designed Welcome JWexceptional Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally on your Park Lane Royal Hyde Park, our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by a unique location. Royal Hyde our hotel offers truly authentic experiences inspired by Lane a unique to nurture andHouse celebrate your personal passions. Welcome to JWPark, Marriott Grosvenor London. Ideally situated on Park and location. overlooking FromRoyal the thriving designer shopping of Mayfair to the world’s most by renowned collections Hyde Park, our hotel offersdistrict truly authentic experiences inspired a uniqueart location.

From the thriving designer shopping district of Mayfair to the world’s most experience renowned art collections look to cultural providing you with an unforgettable Welcome JWWe Marriott Grosvenor House London. Ideally situated on Park and overlooking andto museums with forward outstanding attractions. We offer exceptional guestLane rooms, a tranquil and the museums with outstanding cultural attractions. exceptional rooms, tranquil From thriving designer shopping district of MayfairWe to offer the world’s most guest renowned artacollections Park Room serving British tradition Afternoonexperiences Tea, with JW inspired Steakhouse, Mayfair Royal Hyde Park, ourthe hotel offers trulyofauthentic byCorrigan’s a unique location.

Park Room serving British tradition Afternoon We Tea,offer withexceptional JW Steakhouse, Mayfair and museums with the outstanding culturalof attractions. guestCorrigan’s rooms, a tranquil or Ruya London for exceptional culinary experiences. Every detail of your stay with us is designed or Ruya London for exceptional culinary experiences. Every detail of your stay with us is designed Park Room serving the British tradition of Afternoon Tea, with JW Steakhouse, Corrigan’s Mayfair From the thriving designer shopping district of Mayfair the world’s most renowned art collections to nurture and celebrate your to personal passions. to nurture and celebrate yourEvery personal passions. or Ruya London for exceptional culinary experiences. detail of your stay with us is designed and museums with outstanding cultural attractions. We offer exceptional guest rooms, a tranquil To make a reservation visit: londongrosvenorhouse.com We look forward to providing you with unforgettable experience to nurture and celebrate youran personal passions. We British look forward to providing you withTea, an unforgettable experience Corrigan’s Mayfair Park Room serving the tradition of Afternoon with JW Steakhouse, look forward to providing you with Every an unforgettable experience or Ruya London for We exceptional culinary experiences. detail of your stay with us is designed

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currently lesser-valued artist will always be a pleasure to live with and has the potential to rise in value if the artist is rediscovered by the market in the future.” BE THOROUGH Remember that condition is everything. Always check the condition of a work and make sure to research any conservation or restoration work carried out. “Oils can be cunningly restored but a reputable dealer will point any problems out and price accordingly. Damage on works on paper, particularly prints, can seriously affect their value,” says Hall. As with most things, it’s important to accept what you don’t know, and that there are those with better knowledge, insight and connections, who can help take your passion for something and turn it into an investment. Decide what your objective is and choose the help you need on this basis. If you are buying purely for investment you need a good advisor, and if you are buying a piece that you love, which might eventually lead to an investment, then go somewhere like an online gallery or portal where the selection process has been done for you and then buy something you like. “Buy from an agent, dealer or gallery you know and trust, who has underpinning their offering a good relationship with the artists,” says Sara Ryan. If possible, also buy from a dealer who is a member of a recognised trade

John Bratby, Venetian Backwater

Crackle Vine on Aluminium, Orlanda Broom

A S K T HE E XP E RT

organisation – LAPADA, CINOA, BADA or SLAD are the best-known. “Much can go wrong in buying work from smaller auctions or unaccredited traders, there can often be little or no come back in the small print,” cautions Hall. NEW NAMES As you start to gain more confidence in your investment, you may find your interests expanding too. Supporting more contemporary artists is a really interesting way to develop your art knowledge, and to help shape the market of the future. “I love the fact that by investing in emerging artists you are supporting them right at the time they need it,” says Sara Ryan... “By giving them their first endorsement you are impacting the value of the piece you have invested in. The artist is encouraged to make more work, and other collectors consider them to be collectible, and the artist gains traction. It’s quite a compelling combination of ethics meets upside.” Of course, the most important thing to remember, is that ‘a good investment’ comes in many guises. “We would all like our assets to grow, but there is also the benefit of living with something lifeenhancing and beautiful,” says Robin Light. “And being the guardian of a painting or object, and looking after it for a certain amount of time and passing it on for the next generation to appreciate. We must not forget that most art outlives all of us.” u

ANGUS GRANLUND, D I R E C T O R , H E A D O F D AY S A L E , M O D E R N B R I T I S H A R T, CHRISTIE’S

When investing in art, whether starting a collection or expanding one, it’s important to buy from the heart. î YO U S H O U L D WA N T TO L I V E W I T H T H E W O R K Y O U B U Y, R E G A R D L E S S O F I T S VA L U E

It’s important to view exhibitions to discover which works strike a chord with you. The Modern British Art category covers a very broad and eclectic period of creativity, spanning the 20th century through to the YBA’s. î T H E F U T U R E VA L U E O F A W O R K I S D I F F I C U LT T O P R E D I C T A N D C A N ’ T B E G UA RA N T E E D.

Reputable artists like Henry Moore, Barbara Hepworth and Ben Nicholson will hold their value over time, while the market for less established artists is prone to larger fluctuations. Keep an eye on exhibitions at leading art institutions as these can help promote an artist to a broader audience. î A N A RT I S T T O WAT C H T H I S Y E A R I S F RA N K B OW L I N G .

He has a long-overdue retrospective at Tate Britain from May to August, while Bridget Riley is having a major retrospective in October at the Hayward Gallery. We will be offering works by both of these artists in our June sales. DON'T MISS

May/June - ‘Sculpture in the Square’, an annual exhibition of outdoor sculpture in St James’s Square with large scale pieces from Henry Moore, Elisabeth Frink and Barry Flanagan.

For more information visit christies.com

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HOTEL REVIEW

HECKFIELD PLACE

Hampshire

A little over an hour from London, a hotel with a no-expense spared approach to design is redefining British country stays. Chantal Borciani discovers the hotel Meghan and Harry chose for their private getaway…

HEY SAY THE BEST THINGS come to those who wait, and in the case of Heckfield Place, the world was waiting a while. Originally due to open in 2012, the launch of the most exciting country house hotel to hit the UK hospitality landscape in two decades finally opened its doors in September 2018. Passion project of billionaire owner Gerald Chan, it is rumoured the wait was so the owner could get things just right. Though, renovating a Grade II listed mansion, where even the stone plant pots flanking the ornamental fountain are under protective covenant, would be no nimble feat for any owner. Set in 400 acres of bucolic Hampshire countryside, Heckfield Place was home to the Lefevre family for most of the 19th century, one of the most notable residents being Charles Shaw-Lefevre, Viscount Eversley, speaker of the House of Commons. Under Eversley’s head gardener, William Wildsmith, the estate gained an arboretum and ornamental lake, and became renowned for its exotic hothouse fruits. Today, undisclosed millions have been spent on the renovations and the refined and elegant result is still just as tightly interwoven with the landscape as ever. Mature woodland cocoons the estate, walled gardens are fragrant with roses and lavender, and a market garden and biodynamic farm supplies the hotel’s exquisite restaurants. At the entrance we are ushered past a sweeping staircase lined with black and white prints to a floor to ceiling French window. The

team like guests to instantly lay eyes on the rolling countryside that surrounds them, and the picture window overlooking not one but two lakes certainly sets the tone for things to come. We move through to the vast ‘morning room’ (the name denotes the ideal time to repose and drink in the views) where early spring sunlight streams through yet more lofty windows, illuminating reading chairs and silken soft sofas. The bookcase is filled with literature to make “guests think”, while in the adjoining Drawing Room an original fireplace is offset with a giant gilded mirror, and contemporary art punctuates the soothing grey walls wonderfully. Every day, homemade scones, whipped butter and seasonal homemade preserves are laid out for afternoon tea; a blissful nod to the traditions of proper country life. The interior vision is the work of designer Ben Thompson, who trained under Ilse Crawford and worked on the revered Ett Hem hotel in Stockholm. In Heckfield, Thompson has created a sublime detailed country retreat, where natural textures, plants and a palette of muted greys, velvet creams and forest greens reflect the surroundings, while antiques, hand-picked art and crystal chandeliers add dashes of drama. In the main house, six spectacular signature rooms are the grandest offerings, each providing acres of space, lavish bathrooms, individual designs and even their own bespoke scent. These start from £1,750 a night, rocketing up to £10,000 for a night in the à

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hotel’s Long Room. The preserve of the Hollywood elite and nobility – the Duke and Duchess of Sussex are rumoured to have chosen Heckfield for their babymoon this year – the Long Room offers a vast private apartment with vaulted ceiling, private kitchen, sitting and dining room and secluded terrace. Fortunately for mere mortals, entry-level ‘Friends’ rooms start at £350 per night. For (seriously) special occasions, our Master Room, at £800 a night, was set in the wing known as the ‘Corridors’, and was all but flawless. Alongside the dressing room, there’s a luxurious country style bathroom, ample loft-feel style living space and capacious bed. The suite is dressed with Georgian timber furniture, hand-knotted wool rugs, original British artworks from the owner’s private collection, handmade throws and antiquities that feel lavishly curated yet rooted in place and purpose. Smaller, artisanal touches embolden the narrative; a corn dolly is used as the ‘do not disturb’ sign, your wooden room key (the hotel is soon to be fully plastic-free) comes in an envelope embossed with your initials, seasonal bouquets and single stems are deftly positioned, and woven baskets hang on hooks next to a wool covered hot water bottle – is there anything more delightfully English? On the writing desk, a selection of three tomes including John Ruskin’s On Art & Life and Virginia Woolf’s A Room of One’s Own feel thoughtfully selected. Even the mini bars prove noteworthy. Each cabinet is bespoke and painted to match its room, drawers glide open, freshly ground coffee is set in handmade pots, a run of supple leather pouches hold other accoutrement while homemade cordials and freshly baked cookies sit snugly in place. Even the kettle is bespoke; jet black and modernist. Despite the achingly good interior, Heckfield is as much about ensconcing one’s self in the land as it is about snuggling down in your suite’s billowing sofas. There are Hunter wellies, wax jackets and umbrellas on hand for guests in the Boot Room and maps of the gardens and routes around the undulating woodland to follow. We stroll down the gentle slope past Heckfield’s upper and lower lakes looping around to the ancient woodland where California Coast Redwood Sequoias, Blue Atlas Cedars, Grand Firs and Douglas Firs tower – with some trees dating back to the 18th Century. A testament to pioneering horticulturalist William Wildsmith, Heckfield’s forest, gardens, terraces and walled oasis have been expertly restored in the last few years and are now a pleasure ground for guests to explore. Run biodynamically, Home Farm is also open to guests and lies at one end of the estate with crops, chickens, saddleback pigs, a 70-strong flock of sheep and an expansive market garden and orchard. When we visit, thousands of tulip bulbs are nearing bloom, soon to be whisked up the hill to adorn the myriad vases in Heckfield’s rooms and corridors. In a few weeks, the farm’s peonies, 82

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“Despite the achingly good interior, Heckfield is as much about ensconcing one’s self in the land as it is about snuggling down in your suite’s billowing sofas.”

sweet peas and roses will take their place. Similarly, the produce that grows supplies the changing menus at Heckfield’s two restaurants; Marle and Hearth. Skye Gyngell, of London’s Spring restaurant, is the hotel’s culinary director and both restaurants smack wonderfully of her commitment to produce and 'field to fork' dining. Centred around an open fire, Hearth is as intimate as it is atmospheric. Housed in the renovated coaching stables and a haven of exposed brick, beams and earthenware styling, the restaurant is only open to guests of the hotel and all dishes are cooked on the crackling fire. Ensure to look skyward during your meal, as the bell in the clock tower above the Hearth’s tables is not only older than Big Ben, it was made by the same brothers who manufactured it. Marle, named after a class of soil, feels part verdant summerhouse, part upscale dining room. There’s a lakeview terrace or tables inside that sit under swathes of luscious foliage. At one corner, a vast skylight – adorned with yet more trailing greenery – floods the area with light and is a beautiful spot for breakfast. This year, Heckfield will add a vast spa to its box of tricks (the current bothy spa only has three treatment rooms) and there are plans afoot for a country pub on the estate, plus homestays and cookery courses on the farm. Whatever comes, it is sure to be decidedly upscale and exceptionally well thought out. Unstuffy yet brimming with tradition and history, Heckfield Place may have a royal price tag but it also offers a new take on sophisticated British luxury where seasons and nature are intrinsic to the design cues and character of your stay. u

01665 710700

coquetcottages.co.uk

Mae’r gweision yn edrych ymlaen at eich croesawu i gartref y Cyrnol Prichard a’ch diddanu â hanesion eu bywyd nhw a bywyd y boneddigion! The servants look forward to welcoming you to the home of Colonel Prichard and regaling you with stories of their life and those of the Gentry!

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CORNWALL SALTPONDS HOUSE

PEMBROKESHIRE DRAGON'S EYE

An exquisite cottage with a stunning, unobstructed sea views. Scandi inspired (there's a marvellous Scandinavian Jøtul woodburning stove that is more like a piece of art!) Grade II listed luxury cottage to rent in Mousehole, recently restored with stunning interiors. Up to 4 guests and child - Priced from £995 for a 7-night stay. saltpondshouse.com

This is a great base to explore nearby Cardigan Bay, while enjoying its remote lakeside position and eye-like design, Plus, with access to a shared hot tub, games room and pizza oven, there is plenty to do on site. Featured on Channel 4's 'Cabins in the Wild' series. Priced from £214 for a 3 night stay, originalcottages.co.uk

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CORNWALL THE BEACH HUT Millook, Widemouth Bay Perched on a grassy knoll right on the beachfront, The Beach Hut is set in the small valley of Millook between the popular harbour towns of Bude and Boscastle. Rediscover the simple life at this secluded selfcatering - and iconically Cornish - beach hut. First built in the 1920s for use as a genteel tearoom, The Beach Hut is the ultimate coastal hideaway. This unique beach shack in North Cornwall occupies an enviable nook on the edge of a stunning coastal 52 acre estate, making it an idyllic location to inspire writers, artists and lovers alike. Up to 2 guests - Priced from £1,750 per week, £1,295 per short break. thebeachhut. uniquehomestays.com

NORFOLK THE CATTLE SHED

CORNWALL THE SIGNAL STATION

Set in a peaceful village setting just a few miles from Wellsnext-the-Sea. New this year, the loft style luxury, chic apartment has undergone a complete and truly sympathetic restoration. Sleeps 8-10 guests and welcomes 2 dogs. Priced from £1,650 per week or from £1,238 for 3 nights' self-catering. originalcottages.co.uk

Journey to the end of the earth to this iconic and historic maritime home settled high on the cliffs of Cornwall’s wild Lizard Peninsula. Once offering safe passage to voyaging ships, The Signal Station is the most southerly self-catering home in the land where chic, understated charm perfectly complements the ever-changing horizon. Up to 6 guests. Priced from £1,925 per week, £1,395 per short break. thesignalstation.uniquehomestays.com

NORTH DEVON WHIMBRELS

TRESCO FLYING BOAT COTTAGES

Beach or private pool? Sleeps up to 12. Priced from £1,031 for 3 nights nicheretreats.co.uk

luxurious, 5 star hideaways right on the beach. Priced from £2,205 per week tresco.co.uk

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COOKERY SCHOOLS Whether you are a budding chef wanting to finesse your culinary skills or you just want to try something fun and different - a course at one of the UK’s best cookery schools is an absolute must Words | Chantal Borciani

FROM CELEBRITY CHEF-LED KITCHENS TO STUNNING RURAL RETREATS, HERE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVOURITE COOKERY SCHOOLS THAT THE UK HAS TO OFFER... MAHÉ - PADSTOW, CORNWALL Adjoining the acclaimed Paul Ainsworth at No.6 in Padstow, Mahé is a new cookery school run by the Michelin-starred chef John Walton in conjunction with Paul and his wife Emma. It opened in May and runs from Thursday through to Saturday, providing an elegant and intimate space in which guests can discover how to create stunning dishes. The cookery courses are completely tailored to each guest and are priced from £250 per person which includes breakfast, a behind-the-scenes tour, lunch in No.6’s private room and a goody bag.

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PIED A TERRE MASTERCLASS KITCHEN EXPERIENCE - FITZROVIA, LONDON If you have ever dreamt of working in a Michelinstarred kitchen, then a culinary masterclass at London’s Pied a Terre is an absolute must. Every Friday, five aspiring chefs can enter the kitchen and work alongside the team; helping them create some of Pied a Terre’s most renowned dishes. The class will demonstrate how the restaurant creates their exciting dishes and will give you the skills and expertise to take home and try out on your friends and family. Guests will also receive a goodie bag full of treats and can enjoy a 4-course lunch with paired wines.

THE KITCHEN - CHEWTON GLEN, NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE The Kitchen, a standalone cookery school at Chewton Glen Hotel & Spa, is headed up by celebrity chef James Martin. It offers a range of courses, including baking, seafood and cocktail-making classes. You can even cook alongside the chef himself. The ‘Cook with James Martin’ classes are held for a maximum of 12 guests over a morning or afternoon. Participants can watch James prepare two of his favourite dishes, such as lobster ravioli and funnel cake with blueberry and gin compote, and then will have the opportunity to try recreating it under his watchful eye. Individual classes start from £95, while the ‘Cook with James’ class is priced at £350 per person. THE WOODSPEEN RESTAURANT AND COOKERY SCHOOL - NEWBURY, BERKSHIRE Run by acclaimed chef John Campbell, the Woodspeen cookery school runs a wide range of courses throughout the year. The courses are always based around seasonal ingredients cultivated from the school and restaurant's vegetable plot. Participants can even go out into the plots to pick their produce of choice. From simple summer dining to vegan focused courses, there is something for everyone and each course is very hands on, which helps develop the guest’s skills and learning. à

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Explore the glorious historic West Dean Gardens Enjoy every season at West Dean in the heart of the South Downs. Relax and unwind with beautiful Lavant Valley views.

West Dean Gardens, Chichester, West Sussex, PO18 0RX Tel: 01243 818210

www.westdeangardens.org.uk

15/02/2019 09:58

RICK STEIN’S COOKERY SCHOOL, PADSTOW, CORNWALL If you are a fan of seafood, you should head down to the delightful town of Padstow in Cornwall to Rick Stein's Cookery School. Whilst the focus is on the preparation and cooking of fish, guests can also participate in classes in Indian, Far Eastern, Italian and Mexican cuisine. The cookery school was initially started for the chefs working at the restaurant to undertake intense training in the preparation and cooking a fish and shellfish, but this was eventually offered out to the public who wanted to develop their skills in preparing seafood. From lobster thermidor to Singapore chilli crab, there are ten different workshops to choose from and courses start at just £95 for an evening session. THE NORTHCOTE COOKERY SCHOOL, BLACKBURN, LANCASHIRE Step into Northcote’s intimate Cookery School in the heart of Lancashire and you will soon feel at home. Whether you are just getting started when it comes to cooking or are a culinary whizz, a course at the Northcote Cookery School will provide you with the inspiration and tips that you need to create new dishes to enjoy at home.

Choose from fundamentals such as preparing meat and fish dishes, how to create the ideal dinner party menu as well as more specialist courses such as advanced cookery techniques. You can even undertake a course with Northcote’s own acclaimed Executive Chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen learning to create three of Lisa’s favourite dishes. RAYMOND BLANC COOKERY SCHOOL, GREAT MILTON, OXFORDSHIRE The Raymond Blanc Cookery School at Belmond Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons hotel in Oxford runs a range of cookery courses in kitchens next door to those of its two-Michelin starred restaurant. Indeed, the two kitchens are only separated by a series of glass windows, so you'll feel like a pro no matter what level of skills you have. From half-day introductions to dinner party master classes, there are some great classes to choose from many of which focus on recipes and dishes which have inspired Raymond Blanc himself. à

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Half day courses start from £185 per person and include all tuition, ingredients and refreshments, while full day courses are priced from £365, which also includes a working lunch. HH&CO BACKSTAGE AT THE LIME WOOD, NEW FOREST, HAMPSHIRE Drawing on Angela and Luke’s fresh, confident approach to cooking and eating and their signature home-cooked style, the Lime Wood’s cookery school HH&Co Backstage offers a unique, fun and informal way of learning how to cook delicious food! The courses, which includes Italian cuisine, seafood, pastry and how to cook that all-important roast are suitable for everyone from complete beginners to aspiring master chefs. Their hands-on, relaxed style aims to improve participants' culinary skills whilst giving the confidence and inspiration to go home and get cooking in their own kitchen. OUTCOOK COOKERY SCHOOL, ALNWICK, NORTHUMBERLAND Situated in the heart of Northumberland, the Outcook Home Cookery School takes an informal and fun approach towards cooking. From Mediterranean and South East Asian cuisine to fish and seafood, guests 90

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can either opt to take a regular course or to try a private bespoke session with one of the school’s chefs. Either way, you can expect to leave with a lasting appreciation of both the local Northumbrian produce and North East hospitality. THE COOKERY SCHOOL AT DAYLESFORD, COTSWOLDS NEAR KINGHAM, GLOUCESTERSHIRE From beginners looking to learn new skills to more confident cooks who are looking for more inspiration in their own kitchens, the Daylesford Cookery School offers a superb selection of courses that will whet any appetite. This unique place of culinary excellence is housed in a beautifully restored stone barn, surrounded by stunning Cotswold countryside and 2350 acres of working farmland. It will equip you with a range of techniques, recipes and principles to help you make the most of their delicious seasonal ingredients. u

BLUE SKY THINKING

Open Air Theatre

From cliff tops to abbey ruins, witness world-class open-air theatre this summer at a range of iconic British locations Words | Felix Rowe

HAT COULD BE MORE enchanting than witnessing live theatre set within one of the country’s most beautiful backdrops? Rugged cliff tops, sandy beaches, lidos, palace lawns, ancient abbey ruins and grand country houses – all play host to critically acclaimed, award-winning theatre over the summer. Ideal for all the family, simply bring a picnic and blanket, then relax in comfort with a glass of wine, while the troupe entertain you as the sun sets. Outdoor theatre brings you much closer to the action – crashing waves and occasional downpours only add to the drama, as the actors respond to

heckles from seagulls or sheep. Countless productions pop up at jaw-dropping locations across the UK, offering everything from Shakespeare to slapstick, sometimes both at once. Perhaps unsurprisingly, A Midsummer Night’s Dream is a popular choice, with an array of interpretations to be experienced. What’s more, the admission price will often include pre-show entry to the garden or country house hosting the event. We challenge you to find a better way to spend a summer’s evening. So unpack your hamper, get comfy and let the show begin! à

THE MINACK THEATRE PORTHCURNO, CORNWALL

Arguably the Holy Grail of British outdoor theatre, you’ll be hard pushed to find a more dramatic setting to stage a performance. Literally perched on a cliff edge above the Atlantic in far west Cornwall, the Minack resembles the ruin of an ancient Greek amphitheatre. Though an entirely modern creation fashioned largely out of concrete, its story is no less fascinating. A gloriously eccentric lady, Rowena Cade, bought the remote headland for a mere £100 in the 1920s, and swiftly organised a production of (yes) A Midsummer Night’s Dream. Following its success, Rowena sought a more permanent stage, and so in the early 1930s began to build the amphitheatre herself, enlisting the help of two gardeners. The Minack staged its first official performance, The Tempest, to glowing national reviews in 1932. Rowena continued adding to the theatre throughout her life and could often be seen hand mixing concrete well into her 80s. Now, almost 90 years on from its first performance, the theatre continues to thrive, with a varied summer programme including Romeo & Juliet and Great Expectations.

Box office: 01736 810181  minack.com

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GLAMIS CASTLE ANGUS

REGENT ’S PARK OPEN AIR THEATRE LONDON

Where better to witness ‘the Scottish Play’ than in the grounds of the historic Scottish castle that actually inspired it? Glamis Castle is a real feast for the senses. With a thousand-year history dating back to the real Macbeth, the current building is largely a seventeenth century creation, complete with imposing parapets and turrets. The Ancestral seat of the Earl and Countess of Strathmore and Kinghorne, Glamis is both the Queen Mother’s childhood home and birthplace of her daughter, Princess Margaret. On 16th July, The Three Inch Fools, a troupe of five actors and musicians take on two Shakespeare productions in the grounds. Sit back and enjoy an evening of Much Ado About Nothing and Macbeth itself (matinee performance). To get into the spirit, you can even take the ‘Macbeth Trail’ in the grounds. But, with no disrespect intended to the Bard, the real story of Glamis is perhaps even more intriguing. The castle’s colourful history encompasses several shady characters inducing the ‘Monster of Glamis’, Earl Beardie who played cards with the Devil, and the ‘White Lady’ – an apparition for whom a seat in the chapel still remains reserved to this day. Box office: Order online  glamis-castle.co.uk

Spectacular, world-class theatre staged in a beautiful Royal Park in the heart of the capital. If that sounds tempting, then you’re in luck. Just minutes from Baker Street station, Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre offers the calibre of productions you would expect in the most prestigious West End theatres, only in a stunning outdoor setting. This summer offers a vibrant programme, with extended runs of the English National Opera’s Hansel and Gretel, A Midsummer Night’s Dream, as well as the Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice classic, Evita. As with the venue itself, these lavish, large-scale productions are designed to dazzle. Regardless of your show of choice, it’s bound to be a spectacle at Regent’s Park. There are also special relaxed, captioned and audio description performances on select dates to help enrich the experience if required.

Box office: 0333 4003562  openairtheatre.com

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ILLYRIA

 illyria.co.uk

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Another fantastic touring company is Illyria, which The Telegraph has rightly labeled ‘top notch outdoor theatre’. Wherever you find yourself across Britain this summer, you have a fairly good chance of catching a performance. Illyria will be popping up throughout Scotland, Wales and England in some truly wonderful locations. Fulham Palace, Glastonbury Abbey, Sandford Parks Lido, Arundel Castle, The Lake District, Gordon Castle Walled Garden (Scotland), Drum Castle (Scotland) – the list goes on. This year’s programme really does have something for everyone, with performances of Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves, Shakespeare’s The Tempest and Mary Shelley’s Frankenstein bound to set the country alight.

NATIONWIDE

SMALLHYTHE PLACE KENT

ACROSS THE SOUTH WEST Of course, a stunning venue is something to behold in itself, but it’s the touring companies putting on the shows that really make them come alive. A prime example is Cornwall’s Miracle Theatre, which celebrates its 40th anniversary this year with a tour of A Perfect World from June to August across the South West. The Minack is just one of many staggering and unusual venues where you can witness the action, from beaches to gardens. Some others include a Neolithic henge in Dorset (Maumbury Rings); a subtropical garden amphitheatre by the Helford River (Trebah); a cliff overlooking the Jurassic Coast (Kimmeridge Bay); various locations on the Isles of Scilly; and several Cornish castles (Bude, Launceston, Restormel and St Mawes). To make the St Mawes Castle performance even more memorable, indulge in the ‘Showboat’ package, taking a specially charted ferry from neighbouring Falmouth.  miracletheatre.co.uk

MIRACLE THEATRE

On a smaller scale, though no less enchanting, is Smallhythe Place in Tenterden, Kent. In fact its intimate setting only adds to its charm. Managed by the National Trust, Smallhythe Place is a beautifully preserved timberframed cottage, perhaps dating from the late fourteenth century. It was once home to the eminent Victorian Shakespearian actress Ellen Terry, and her daughter created the ‘Barn Theatre’ in the seventeenth century thatched barn in her honour. Still going strong today, it is complemented by several open-air performances in the beautifully-kept gardens. The Winter’s Tale is probably the last thing you’d expect to see in the height of summer, but this adaptation of Shakespeare’s classic by Changeling (13th July) is one not to miss, with the intriguing promise of ‘just a hint of ABBA’ surely worth investigation alone. Other summer open-air performances include Alice in Wonderland (7th August) and Sense and Sensibility (15th August). Arrive early to enjoy a pre-show evening picnic in the gardens.  nationaltrust.org.uk

/smallhythe-place

NATIONAL TRUST VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Smallhythe Place is but one of countless National Trust properties nationwide, from the grand to the snug, that regularly hosts open-air performances. Whether you hanker for a classic such as Wuthering Heights, or perhaps something a little more contemporary like Gangsta Granny, you’re well catered for. Many, such as Scotney Castle, offer a VIP theatre experience, which includes a welcome drink, as well as a mezze platter to sup on and a tub of artisan ice cream for the interval – all to be enjoyed in style and comfort in the VIP area. What’s more, children are welcome and under-fives go free. Why not experience Austen as it should be, in the grounds of a grand stately home like Attingham Park in Shrewsbury; or laugh along to Wind in the Willows in a country pile worthy of Toad Hall. Visit the National Trust website to find a performance near you.  nationaltrust.org.uk

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BRITISH TRAVEL JOURNAL CROSSWORD 02

The first twenty correct crosswords received will be rewarded with a free gift of Newby Teas - simply send your completed crossword (or the answers) with your choice of Moroccan Mint, Jasmine Blossom, Earl Grey or English Breakfast tea, and your postal address, by post to British Travel Journal, Mitchell House, Brook Avenue, Warsash, Southampton, Hampshire, SO31 9HP, or email the answers to crossword@britishtraveljournal.com

ACROSS

DOWN

1 Stornoway castle (4) 4 As "Titanic" was supposed to be (10) 9 Found between Dover and Calais (6) 10 One way to buy (2,6) 11 Like Glyndebourne's auditorium (9-6) 12 Christmas Dancer? (8) 15 Chester's Roman name (4) 18 What a rocker aspires to be (4) 19 What futile complaints fall on (4,4) 21 Disorganised cartel bakes fare for an early bite (9,6) 25 Felicity Kendal's birth borough (8) 26 Anglo-Saxon kingdom stretching from Offa's Dyke to East Anglia (6) 27 Lord's-based cricket club (10) 28 King's ---, base for visiting Sandringham (4)

2 Outgoing type (9) 3 DNA collectors (5) 4 Still in R&D (8) 5 Locale of Dawyck Botanic Garden (5) 6 Free (2-4) 7 Writer --- Dumas (9) 8 Jazz singer Cleo (5) 13 Business as usual (9) 14 X-ray dose (3) 16 Change aviator in turbulence (9) 17 Park home to the Princess Royal (8) 20 Pour out freely (6) 22 Joint Hay Festival creator, with Norman and Peter Florence (5) 23 Sudden burst of applause (5) 24 Reading has a museum dedicated to this kind of life (5)

Answers will be printed in the Autumn Issue out 29 August ANSWERS TO CROSSWORD 01 ACROSS: 1 Smith 4 Thrashers 10 Tintagel 11 Newark 12 Trossachs 13 Using 15 Day-glo 17 Monmouth 19 Psalmody 21 Carrot 22 Nancy, 24 Arresting 27 Embryo 28 Identity 29 Gypsy moth 30 Orlop. DOWN: 2 Main roads 3 Totes 5 Holkham 6 Anne 7 Hawksmoor 8 Reran 9 Iguanodon 14 Snickered 16 Gold cards 18 Two and two 20 Yorkist 23 Armoy 25 Tutor 26 Holm.

F O R YO U R J O U R N E Y Books, apps, travel gadgets and crossword

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CITY | COAST | COUNTRY

IN THE STARS

GASTRONOMIC DELIGHTS AND A CONSTELLATION OF MICHELIN STARS JUST WAITING TO BE EXPLORED

DREAM ESCAPE

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Distinguished artist Philip Hughes records eleven iconic walks across the length and breadth of Britain, from Allt Coire Pheiginn in Scotland to Zennor Head in Cornwall. Â£15.99, amazon.co.uk 98

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Articles inside

Interview with Nathan Outlaw

Cookery Schools

Wimbledon Behind-the-Scenes

Great West Way - New UK Touring Route from London to Bristol

In search of Scotch Whisky