Dream Escape Magazine | Spring 2022

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DREAM ESCAPE MAGAZINE

dreamescape.co.uk

£8 $11

Spring 2022 | Issue 05

Exclusive Travel Experiences to England, Scotland, Ireland & Wales


A trailblazing destination For centuries The K Club – a 550-acre resort set deep in the Kildare countryside – has allured, captivated and inspired visionary men and women. From the plucky heroics of an exiled aristocrat, to the high-living glamour of a Hollywood tycoon, a trailblazing spirit has always been a part of who we are. So whether you seek a glamorous escape with a generous dash of old-school Irish hospitality, or simply luxuriant relaxation in storied surroundings, The K Club is yours to discover. e. reservations@kclub.ie t. +353 1 601 7200 | www.kclub.ie

The K Club, Straffan, County Kildare.

TIME TO PLAY


WELCOME COVER PHOTO —

London building in Mayfair (Berkeley Square) decorated with peonies and with matching doormen during the week of Chelsea Flower Show © GETTY IMAGES

HIGHLIGHT —

May 2022 will see the return of the Chelsea Flower Show and this year's theme is 'wild', with a special focus on connecting with nature, bringing the wilderness back, and the power of plants. Read more in our article on page 61

linkedin.com/company/ dream-escape-int

@Dreamescapeltd

@DreamescapeUK

FIRST WORDS —

W

E ARE THRILLED to share our Spring Edition with you as this marks out our first-year anniversary of the Dream Escape magazine. I hope that you will agree that in each edition we are providing engaging features and inspiring travel experiences for travellers wishing to visit the UK & Ireland. To say that the year has leapt off the starting blocks would be a huge understatement, indeed, I’m not sure that I can recall a busier winter period. The world of hospitality is very much open for business once again and we are looking forward to an exciting spring and summer. It is heartening to see so many families travelling together and making up for the lost time of the last few years. I hope you enjoy what I think is another great issue of our magazine and that it inspires your future travel plans.

David

DAVID TOBIN OWNER AND DIRECTOR – OUR VIDEOS...

@DreamEscapeLtd

Luxury Scotland by Dream Escape Luxury Ireland by Dream Escape

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Situated within its thousands of acres of lochs and mountains and set centrally within the Highlands National Nature Reserve

glenaffricestate.com


CONTENTS SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 05 —

SOCIAL CALENDAR SPRING 2022

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12 From a multi-sensory Van Gogh exhibition to the Glasgow Film Festival, St Patrick’s Day, Easter parades and horse races, not to mention the new Superbloom Tower of London for the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee, it’s an action-packed season

GLENEAGLES TOWNHOUSE

22 The renowned Glenagles Hotel in Scotland’s

Perthshire is opening its first Edinburgh outlet this spring, and Dream Escape brings you a sneak peek of the two historic buildings

WHAT’S NEW TRAVEL BULLETIN

26 We’re ready to discover the brand-new Kintyre

66 (K66) route in Scotland, the Game of Thrones studio tour in Northern Ireland, luxurious new properties in the Cotswolds and Edinburgh, and the launch of a book for English garden eccentrics

MEET THE CHEF: SKYE GYNGELL

28 Acclaimed chef Skye Gyngell shows us around luxurious Heckfield Place in Hampshire, where she is culinary director

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Platinum Jubilee ‘Superbloom’ at the Tower of London

INTERVIEW WITH CHARLEY BOORMAN

INSIDE THE REAL DOWNTON ABBEY

enthusiast wants Dream Escape readers to join him on an exclusive, action-packed tour of Scotland

Lord Carnavon at Highclere Castle about life behind the scenes at the real Downton Abbey →

36 The TV star and motorbike

42 We have an exclusive chat with

Downton Abbey: A New Era (© 2022 Focus Features) dreamescapemagazine.com

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60 HEAVENLY IRELAND

52 We explore CLIFF, a collection of stunning

five-star properties in Ireland, with owner Barry O’Callaghan

CHELSEA FLOWER SHOW 2022

60 Everything you need to know about the

garden exhibitions at the world’s greatest flower show, with a focus this year on the positive power of plants

HORSES FOR COURSES

67 Ireland’s County Kildare is known as the

‘Thoroughbred County’ for a reason, and we show you how to enjoy the horse racing in style

VALE OF LLANGOLLEN

72 We explore one of Wales’ most beautiful geographic settings, popular with hikers and heritage enthusiasts

Chelsea Flower Show (© RHS/Georgi Mabee)

Jupiter Artland – a sculpture park and art gallery outside Edinburgh

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SOMERSET’S GOURMET AND GARDEN SCENE

78 The West Country is about so much more

than Cheddar and cider – Somerset has exquisite gardens as well, with exclusive opportunities for Dream Escape readers at The Newt in Bruton

WILD ART OF SCOTLAND

86 We count down the top ten Scottish artistic experiences to truly appreciate its unique landscapes

WITH A SPRING IN OUR STEP

94 A seasonal walk through the Ballynatray

Estate in Ireland’s County Cork is idyllic in spring

THE LAST WORD FROM ROSEMARY AND SAGE

98 Dream Escape’s Head of Guiding, Rosie

Peattie and resident fount of knowledge Sally Strange, both Blue Badge Guides, recommend some exciting outdoor Scottish experiences and cultural London ones ⬥

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E XQUISITE. ELEGA NT. unforgettable.

+ 4 4 (0) 20 793 0 8181 | W H I T E H A L L PL AC E , LO N D O N S W1A 2B D CO R I N T H I A .CO M / LO N D O N


MAGAZINE

Meet the team...

SPRING 2022 | ISSUE 05

EDITOR IN CHIEF –

Owner and Director

Jessica Way jessica.way@contistamedia.co.uk

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS –

Melanie Abrams, Jillian Bolger, Chantal Borciani, Sophie Farrah, Emma Johnson, Suzanne Jones, Annabel Mackie, Karyn Noble, Samantha Rutherford

DIGITAL DISTRIBUTION MANAGER –

Adrian Wilkinson adrian.wilkinson@contistamedia.co.uk

DREAM ESCAPE LUXURY TRAVEL DESIGNERS – HEAD OF TRAVEL DESIGN Lesley Scott lesley@dreamescape.co.uk

HEAD OF PRODUCT Louise Murray louise@dreamescape.co.uk

david@dreamescape.co.uk

Top events this season ? “There is so much to look forward to as we kick off the Queen's Jubilee celebrations. Spring is all about flowers and new beginnings, and I am super excited to see the Superbloom Tower of London.”

sue@dreamescape.co.uk

HOLLY MACKIE –

HEAD OF CLIENT SERVICES Karen Darlow karen@dreamescape.co.uk

HEAD OF SALES

Owner and Director

Emer Mortell emer@dreamescape.co.uk

PUBLISHED BY –

Dream Escape Leading luxury travel design company and destination specialist dreamescape.co.uk

Who inspires you? “I have found inspiration from a variety of people, ranging from Ernest Shackleton and David Attenborough to the composer John Williams.”

Sue brings over 20 years of experience in sales, marketing and event management in the UK and Ireland travel industry. Sue started her career working for a leading luxury tour operator in London before enjoying 15 years at Tourism Ireland, where she was responsible for various marketing and communications campaigns for the consumer, travel trade, golf, and business tourism sectors. Having moved to the British Virgin Islands in 2011 with her family, she is no stranger to high-end travel experiences, the great outdoors and an odd hurricane or two! ⬥

Rebecca Morrison rebecca@dreamescape.co.uk

BROUGHT TO YOU BY –

David founded Dream Escape with Holly in 2005. Based in Edinburgh, the vision was to create once-in-a-lifetime trips and events for a select group of well-travelled and discerning clients. David's previous marketing career included roles at ITV, Saatchi & Saatchi and Carat, where he worked across a wide range of clients. Prior to starting Dream Escape he was a Board Director at MediaCom London and Scotland, responsible for Audi UK and The Scottish Executive. David is a keen cyclist, and across the last few years has cycled around the Wild Atlantic Way in Ireland and the North Coast 500 in Scotland, raising money for various charities supporting people living with cancer. ⬥

SUE MORRIS –

HEAD OF GUEST EXPERIENCE

Contista Media Contract publishers for the UK travel and tourism industry contistamedia.co.uk

DAVID TOBIN –

Head of Marketing

DREAM ESCAPE

holly@dreamescape.co.uk

Holly started her career at Carlson Marketing in Singapore after completing her Business & Psychology MA in Edinburgh. After a few years in London working at various advertising agencies, including TBWA, she moved to Edinburgh. Holly is passionate about travel and has a wealth of knowledge, having travelled extensively, including overlanding from India and Nepal back to England. As well as enjoying as much time as she can with her family, Holly would love to complete more charity challenges and get to some of the far-flung places on the map that have always been on her list to visit. ⬥ What experience has recently inspired you? “ A journey to a beautiful part of the Highlands with majestic snowcapped munros, cascading waterfalls, soft lighting, and many wonderful artists and artisans tucked away waiting to be discovered.”

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk

DREAM ESCAPE


The Fife Arms, Mar Rd, Braemar, Aberdeenshire, AB35 5YN, Scotland ~ 01339 720202 ~ reservations@thefifearms.com ~ www.thefifearms.com


AN EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER FROM A WHISKY LIKE NO OTHER

OPEN NOW

PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY


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CONTRIBUTORS Spring 2022 —

SKYE GYNGELL — Chef, Heckfield Place: Renowned for her distinctively seasonal, elegant cooking, Skye is one of Britain’s most respected chefs. She divides her time between chic London restaurant Spring, and luxurious country hotel, Heckfield Place, where she is culinary director. How would you spend a day off at Heckfield Place? “I would walk around the farm and have an arboretum tour, and then I'd go wild swimming in one of the beautiful lakes. It’s really a special thing to do” See page 28 ⬥

CHRIS HAYES — Professional Jockey: Chris Hayes learned his craft as a young apprentice jockey at the Curragh in Kildare's heartland, riding many winners to date at this special track. How does it feel to win a big race? “When Awtaad won the Tattersalls Irish 2000 Guineas in 2016, it was for trainer Kevin Prendergast, who I have been with since I started. We received an unbelievable reception when we came in (to the winner’s enclosure). It was real local success and one that I will never forget.” See page 66 ⬥

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LORD CARNARVON — The 8th Earl of Carnarvon: Lord Carnarvon is involved in every aspect of running Highclere Castle, the magnificent ancestral home with extensive landscaped parkland and a working farm that is the fictional home to Downton Abbey. What do you do if you ever have any free time in your busy schedule? “I never tire of the beauty of Highclere and walk, run or ride most days. I love gardening and planting new trees. I have a love of the thoroughbred horse and racing and have two brood mares so try my luck with one or two in training. Stalking in the Highlands and skiing in The Alps are other hobbies as is buying paintings from time to time.” See page 42 ⬥

CHARLEY BOORMAN — Famous Adventurer: Intrepid explorer and motorcycle enthusiast Charley has travelled the world several times over. Now, the famous adventurer is gearing up for his next big adventure; an exclusive, action-packed tour of Scotland with Dream Escape. When you’re not busy traveling, how do you like to spend your time? “I live near Guildford, in the heart of the Surrey Hills, and there is some of the best downhill mountain biking in southern Britain to be found here. Electric bicycles are also amazing - you can go anywhere you want!” See page 36 ⬥

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SOCIAL

CALENDAR Spring 2022

BEATRIX POTTER: DRAWN TO NATURE

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON

MARCH 12

— 12 February 2022–8 January 2023 | Delve into the life of fabled children’s author, Beatrix Potter (1866–1943) at the Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A). Her much-loved characters Peter Rabbit, Jemima Puddle-Duck, naughty Squirrel Nutkin, and many more are as fresh today as they were when she created them (1901–1930). Inspirations for Potter's tales are displayed. There’s the dolls’ house that's famed for being vandalised in The Tale of Two Bad Mice, as well as her early sketches of rabbits, hedgehogs (Mrs Tiggy-Winkle) and more. Letters, family photos, and even her clogs offer intimate insights, while a video of Potter's Lake District neighbourhood today shows her other environmental legacy.⬥ dreamescapemagazine.com


Don't miss...

Van Gogh Alive, Edinburgh, Scotland

17 March–17 July 2022 | Step into Van Gogh’s sunflower meadow and other paintings at the multisensory Van Gogh Alive experience in Edinburgh’s Festival Square. Meanwhile, in London’s Courtauld Gallery, see the man as he saw himself in self-portraits to 8 May.

GLASGOW FILM FESTIVAL

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

DANCE REFLECTIONS BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

LONDON — 9–23 March 2022 | Parisian jeweller, Van Cleef & Arpels has dance running through its DNA – from its ballerina jewels to collaborations with legendary choreographers like Black Swan’s Benjamin Millepied. Now the house presents a new international contemporary dance

MARCH

— 2–13 March 2022 | For a heady mix of emerging, groundbreaking and international cinema, head to the Glasgow Film Festival at the Glasgow Film Theatre and other venues across the UK. Opening this year’s top-notch roster is Mark Rylance’s new thriller, The Outfit, where Savile Row tailoring meets the mafia. Other premieres include Christina Ricci in the horror flick, Monstrous. Also worth finding are the Scandi film noirs and hot new films from Africa notably The Gravedigger’s Wife, which premiered in Cannes. For throwback treats, see classic screen performances from 1962, including Sean Connery as James Bond in Dr No. ⬥

festival, Dance Reflections – and London is the first stop. Highlights include works by American postmodern pioneer Trisha Brown, innovative Boris Charmatz’s recent solo Somnole, Christian Rizzo’s multifaceted Une Maison and the yoga-inspired moves of Kurdish artist Rauf Yasit, aka Rubberlegz Day. Evening performances are citywide, and venues include the Royal Opera House, Tate Modern Tanks, and Hackney’s Earth Theatre. ⬥ dreamescapemagazine.com

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FASHIONING MASCULINITIES: THE ART OF MENSWEAR

VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM LONDON

MARCH

— 19 March–6 November 2022 | Menswear veers from the traditional to the wildly experimental. Consider Giorgio Armani’s singlebreasted two-piece black suit to Rick Owens’ lamp-helmets at January’s Paris menswear shows. The market is expanding too – with revenues of US$559,038 million expected this year, according to Statista. Now the Victoria & Albert Museum is showcasing the art of menswear since the Renaissance for the first time – including photos, paintings, sculptures and around 100 looks. See Jean Paul Gaultier’s irreverent mash-up of tailored suit and sari, for example, or Edward Crutchley’s genderbending corset and full brocade skirt. ⬥

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Dream Escape loves...

Easter Bonnet Workshops, London

1 March–31 May 2022| Treat your children to fashion fun with Mini Milliners' founder, Michelle Stroud. They’ll decorate a straw hat with crêpe-paper flowers, for example, or bead a fascinator. And even better: you can take it home.

ST PATRICK’S FESTIVAL

IRELAND

MARCH

— 16–20 March 2022 | Parades dominate Irish cities as the country celebrates its patron saint, St Patrick, this month. Dublin has the largest parade, stretching from Parnell Square to St Stephen’s Green. Book a grandstand seat for the best views of the spectacle – ideally, by St Patrick’s Cathedral. Alternatively, head south to medieval Kilkenny, where its parade will bypass the castle and include cartoon wolves (aka Amazon TV’s Wolfwalkers, made by local animators). Other highlights include a traditional Irish music festival, a fire-dance show and landmarks such as the 13th-century St Francis Abbey lit in green. ⬥

THE CHELTENHAM FESTIVAL

CHELTENHAM RACECOURSE — 15–18 March 2022 | See the best trainers, jockeys and horses at Cheltenham Festival, with its 28 races including the Queen Mother Champion Chase and the Cheltenham Gold Cup. Make a smart statement in an embellished hat by Londonbased Turkish designer Merve Bayindir

and pair with an Erdem dress or Zegna. Private boxes are the places to be. Try the third-floor Chez Roux box with its private balcony, view over the racecourse, and Champagne starter. Or be one of the first to taste the fine dining at new restaurant Four Eighty, overlooking the home straight. For the smartest experience, stay at the nearby No 131 or George hotels. ⬥ dreamescapemagazine.com

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INSPIRED: ART INSPIRED BY THEATRE, LITERATURE & MUSIC

GUILDHALL ART GALLERY, LONDON — 08 April–11 September 2022 | Guildhall Art Gallery are mounting a fascinating new exhibition exploring the presence of literature and music in paintings and sculptures by celebrated artists in the 19th and 20th century. The Guildhall’s art collection is as nationally significant as its position above London’s Roman Amphitheatre; and Inspired will not only reflect on London’s Victorian past but look to the resulting relationship between the arts, theatre, literature and music. The exhibition will also will show how sources like novels were increasingly popular during the 19th century. ⬥

BOYLESPORTS IRISH GRAND NATIONAL

FAIRYHOUSE RACECOURSE, IRELAND

APRIL

— 18 April 2022 | For the biggest date in Ireland’s horseracing calendar, head to the Fairyhouse racecourse for the BoyleSports Irish Grand National. Located in the village of Ratoath, County Meath, the racecourse has hosted the Grand National since 1870. It’s Ladies Day too – so don hats and heels to win the style prize. Watch the race from a private suite or at a Bobbyjo Bistro table, which also gives access to the main stand. Relax at the 18th-century Dunboyne Castle Hotel, with its deluxe spa, hammam and Ivy restaurant. ⬥

Dream Escape loves...

Loch Lomond Springfest, Balloch, Scotland

2–3 April 2022 | For a lively weekend of whisky, hog roasts, cooking demos and live music, head to Loch Lomond's shores. Pop-up bars serve extra fizz, with gourmet street food also on the menu. Discover local craft too.

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An historic moment...

The Oxford & Cambridge Boat Race, London

3 April 2022 | The long-standing rowing rivalry between Oxford and Cambridge Universities returns to the River Thames from Putney Embankment.

KELMSCOTT MANOR

COTSWOLDS

APRIL

— 1 April 2022 | After a £6-million makeover, Kelmscott Manor reopens. The late-16th-century manor was the Cotswolds retreat of William Morris, the Victorian textile designer, poet and novelist – as well as the father of the Arts And Crafts Movement. Amid structural repairs and new exhibition spaces, the stone-flagged Old Hall, bedrooms and green room have been restored to how they would have been in Morris’s day. Discover furniture and furnishings by Morris and his illustrious contemporaries. ⬥

RAPHAEL NATIONAL GALLERY

LONDON — 9 April–31 July 2022 | This season’s must-visit art show is Raphael’s retrospective, marking 500 years since the Renaissance maestro’s death (the show has been delayed by 18 months, due to COVID-19). Born Raffaello Santi (1483–1520), his elegiac, colourful paintings of Madonnas, saints and contemporaries still define Western images of beauty. Works have come to London from institutions such as Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, while his imposing take on the Pope’s nephew Lorenzo de’ Medici, Duke of Urbino, is from a private collection. This comprehensive exhibition also includes his lesser-known activities – see his early designs for St Peter’s Basilica in Rome, for example. ⬥ dreamescapemagazine.com

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The Chelsea Flower Show, Royal Hospital Chelsea, London

GLYNDEBOURNE FESTIVAL

LEWES, SUSSEX — 21 May–28 August 2022 | Pack a picnic for the Glyndebourne Festival. Relish new productions of such favourites as Puccini’s La bohème or experiment with rarer stagings like The Wreckers by suffragette Ethel Smythe, which is a love story set in a Cornish fishing village. ⬥

MAY 18

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IMAGES IN THIS FEATURE ARE COURTESY OF AND © TATE / SAM DAY / MARTIN ARGYROGLO / CITY OF LONDON CORPORATION / INPHO / LASZLO GECZO IAN BAKER PHOTOGRAPHY / ANTHONY UPTON FOR THE JOCKEY CLUB / JAMES BELLORINI / TONY WOODS / MARSHA ARNOLD / KIT HOUGHTON

24–28 May 2022| Start summer with a flourish at the Chelsea Flower Show. Join royals among the show gardens. Take mindful time in the sanctuaries. While in the Grand Pavilion, look for the debut plants’ section.


BLACKWATER VALLEY OPERA FESTIVAL

WATERFORD, IRELAND — 31 May–6 June 2022 | Lismore Castle is the backdrop for the Blackwater Valley Opera Festival. Now in its 12th year, the festival mixes concerts, recitals and readings with operas. Headliners include Gluck’s Orfeo ed Euridice, and award-winning Spanish soprano Núria Rial with the Irish Baroque performing Orchestra. The Cliff House Hotel offers easy access. ⬥

HAY FESTIVAL

DAIRY MEADOWS, HAY-ON-WYE, WALES

MAY

— 26 May–5 June 2022 | Head to Wales for one of the best literary events, the Hay Festival. Hear actor and author Stephen Fry discuss his new book, Homecoming, or how Bernadine Evaristo created history by winning the Booker Prize in 2019. Evaristo was the first black woman to win this prestigious book award. Then there’s Jarvis Cocker talking about his former band Pulp and more, as his memoir, Good Pop, Bad Pop, is released. New this year is the open-air theatre at Hay Castle, constructed especially for the festival. See performances such as Julius Caesar by Shakespeare’s Globe on Tour. For extra style, book a luxe pod at nearby Cynefin Retreats. ⬥

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Self-catering accommodation for weekends and holiday breaks along with exclusive use rental of the estate house all year round Ballynatray, Youghal, Co. Cork, Ireland www.ballynatray.com


Try something new...

Weird Sensation Feels Good, Design Museum, London

From 13 May 2022 | For a tingling digital experience, the Design Museum’s latest exhibition explains ASMR Autonomous Sensory Meridian Response; namely a physical sensation triggered by video sound, touch and movement.

ISLAY FESTIVAL OF MUSIC & MALT

ISLE OF ISLAY, SCOTLAND

BADMINTON ESTATE, GLOUCESTERSHIRE — 4–8 May 2022 | Hobnob with royalty and British high society at the Badminton Horse Trials in the grounds of the home to Dukes of Beaufort since 1682. While dressage, showjumping, and the crosscountry race are the main events, discover

other spectacles, such as the Shetland Pony Grand National, and the Parade of the Duke of Beaufort's Hounds on the last day. Best place to mingle is the Weatherbys Hamilton Members’ Enclosure, so reserve places early for breakfast or lunch (top tip: the Breakfast Bellini on cross-country Saturday). For more laid-back fun, grab a picnic table by the lakeside. ⬥

MAY

BADMINTON HORSE TRIALS

— 27 May–4 June 2022 | Discover the Hebridean island of Islay for nine days of malt whisky tasting, traditional Scottish music, and group Cèilidh dancing. See where your favourite tipple is made at the distillery open days – whether you prefer a classic Laphroaig or a biodynamic Bruichladdich. Make time to explore this historic isle, which dates to around AD 560. It’s a haven for wildlife, from soaring golden eagles to Loch Gruinart’s sunbathing seals, and has soft sandy beaches such as Machir Bay, also known for its spectacular sunsets. For an insightful overview, there’s the Museum of Islay Life in Port Charlotte, where the intimate displays stretch back to prehistory. ⬥

Looking Ahead...

Superbloom Tower of London

1 June–18 September 2022 Slide into the 20 million new blooms in the Tower of London’s moat that celebrate the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee. dreamescapemagazine.com

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Gleneagles Townhouse From the Dream Escape Private Residence Collection:

Gleneagles Hotel is set to open its first-ever city outpost in Edinburgh this spring. The Gleneagles Townhouse will span two historic buildings on one of the city’s grandest squares. WORDS | ANNABEL MACKIE

W

HEN GLENEAGLES, the magnificent countryside estate, set in the heart of the glorious Perthshire countryside, first opened its doors in 1924 it was described as a ‘Riviera in the Highlands’. Soon, to celebrate its 100th birthday, the renowned hotel will open its first-ever city outpost; situated on St Andrew Square, one of Edinburgh’s finest addresses. It will be an uber-glamorous addition to the city that earned the nickname the ‘Athens of the North’ in the 19th century, due to its proliferation of elegant classical-style buildings. Although the Gleneagles Townhouse won’t be on as expansive a scale as the 850-acre sporting and country resort, the property will be just as grand. The 33 luxurious bedrooms, with a wealth of rich architectural detail and original period character, coupled with the lavish interiors, and all the modern necessities that

discerning travellers demand. The Townhouse is situated on the east side of one of the grandest squares in Edinburgh, a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. In addition to the individually designed guest rooms, The Townhouse will consist of an all-day restaurant, several bars, a holistic wellness spa and gym. It is also home to a private members’ club, housed in the banks’ former boardroom, a lounge bar restaurant and snug, where members can work, meet up with friends and have a drink. Designed by Ennismore Design Studio, the fivestar hotel has been an incredible labour of love for the creative team, who have worked tirelessly with the project architect 3D Reid over the past five years, especially as they had to factor in the additional challenges and setbacks caused by COVID-19. Ennismore’s Design Director Charles North describes the design focus as paying homage to the → dreamescapemagazine.com

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noble building’s heritage. “It was to sensitively restore and enhance one of the city’s finest listed buildings. This involved the alteration, extension, and refurbishment of two notable Category A-listed buildings of significant and architectural character.” One of these was a traditional 1780s sandstone townhouse (no. 38) while the other was the British Linen Bank, built in 1846 and which, latterly, housed the Bank of Scotland. Of particular architectural significance is the threestorey former bank (no. 37), which was designed by one of Scotland’s most pre-eminent architects David Bryce, best known for perfecting the Scottish Baronial style. Bryce was a prolific architect, and examples of other of his notable works in the city include Fettes College, the former Royal Infirmary Hospital, and the Bank of Scotland headquarters that sits majestically on The Mound overlooking Princes Street Gardens. The handsome sandstone building features a richly decorative facade, with six monumental fluted Corinthian columns topped by an elaborate entablature with foliate carving. These are supported by six life-size statues representing Navigation, Commerce, Manufacture, Science, Art, and Agriculture, all crafted by Alexander Handyside Ritchie. The building is described by Professor Miles Glendinning, the author of History of Scottish Architecture as “a composition of Baalbek-like

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grandeur”, referencing the great temple ruins of Baalbek in the Lebanon while another architect described it as, “a fragment of Imperial Rome”. When Dream Escape asked Design Director Charles North what kind of condition the building was in prior to the renovation process, he said it was fairly run down. He told us that: “The hotel is actually located in two separate buildings (no. 37 & 38), which we’ve designed to be one harmonious hotel. The former bank buildings were left derelict for some years. An icon of the cityscape, it’s been given a new lease of life and brought back to its former glory.” Guests will discover plenty of clues all over The Townhouse that link the hotel with its previous incarnation as a bank, such as the new restaurant The Spence – located in the banking hall – and the spa in the bank vaults. Specialist craftspeople were brought in to restore many of the original period features. Charles gives several examples of these. “We’ve kept the existing tiled floor throughout the ground floor, where possible. There is also the stained-glass window feature in the reception, plus the grand historical staircase and the floor have all been maintained.” He also points out several original fireplaces, including two in the Members’ Lounge. He added that in The Spence, “There are grand stone columns, where guests can also spot the name of the previous bank owner etched with gold detailing into the top perimeter of the room – a nod to the building’s impressive history”. Furthermore, he added that they have retained in the reception a War Memorial that commemorates the memory of the 68 bank employees who died during World War I. One of the most striking architectural features in the building is the magnificent, gilded ceiling cupola (dome) that allows natural light to flood into The Spence, the brasserie-style restaurant. It's located in the former bank hall, and diners will be able to admire the restored stained-glass panels and view portraits of important people of history, such as James Watt, inventor of the steam engine, as they peruse the modern Scottish menu at the all-day restaurant. Charles believes the focus is to show the importance


An icon of the cityscape, it’s been given a new lease of life and brought back to its former glory of the position of this room as the beating heart of the building as it was in the past. He says: “We wanted to reference its previous life as the centre of the building, so installed a central horseshoeshaped bar underneath the dome, with elements of the design such as the panelled bar and the gantry lighting nodding back to the historic counter.” It’s not just the banking hall that’s been given a new lease of life but also the former bank vaults, which have retained their original doors and terrazzo-style flooring. These days, instead of finding banknotes and bars of gold, you’ll find weights and barbells in the gym, while there is a state-of-the-art spa in the hotel’s health and wellness area. The building has not, however, been content to rest on its historic laurels, and there are several striking modern design additions featuring fresh contemporary interiors and Scottish artwork. One of the most glamorous of these is Lamplighters, the stunning rooftop terrace that is part of a modern extension to the original townhouse and features a beautiful, curved timber bar. Guests will be able to soak in the spectacular views of the medieval Old Town and the Georgian beauty of the New Town from the al fresco terrace with a cocktail in hand. With its enticing juxtaposition of richly ornate decorative style and timeless period character with chic contemporary decor and striking modern additions, The Townhouse will certainly add glamour and style to this beautiful garden square in the heart of Edinburgh’s city centre. And, even if you’re not a betting person, we’re banking on The Townhouse to be another Gleneagles success story.

Pictured previous page: Lamplighters Bar; The Members' Lounge Pictured clockwise from left: The Spence; Health and Wellness Area; Bedroom

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Lesley Scott, Head of Travel Design “We are all very excited about this new addition to our Edinburgh collection of properties. As a huge fan and preferred supplier of Gleneagles, we will look forward to creating some truly inspirational experiences around this iconic building in the heart of this historic city”. ⬥

lesley@dreamescape.co.uk

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WHAT’S

NEW TRAVEL BULLETIN

NORTHERN IRELAND GAME OF THRONES STUDIO TOUR IS NOW OPEN! — Relive the greatest scenes of Game of Thrones with props and costumes on display from the TV series at the brand new Studio Tour, now open in Banbridge. Whether you're a movie buff or a curious explorer, step behind the scenes and discover the fascinating world of special effects used to create the most epic moments on Game of Thrones. Located at the acclaimed series’ original filming location at Linen Mill Studios, the Official Game of Thrones Studio Tour transports fans into the very heart of Westeros to see breathtaking imagery, captivating sets, original props and costumes and more behind-the-scenes elements from the hit HBO series. Ask your Dream Escape design planner to arrange a special visit. ⬥

KINTYRE 66 (K66) LAUNCH — Guests of Dream Escape are now able to visit the brand new Kintyre 66 (K66), a 66-mile circular loop around one of Scotland’s most scenic regions made famous by Sir Paul McCartney’s 1978 Christmas number one song 'Mull of Kintyre'. Inspired by Route 66 in the US, the K66 journey takes in both the west and east coast of the unspoilt peninsula in Argyll, from the top at Kennacraig to the bottom at Campbeltown, and covering six key regions West Kintyre; Gigha; Machrihanish and Southend; Campbeltown; East Kintyre; and Tarbert and Skipness. Enjoy white sandy beaches, breathtaking vistas (views across to Northern Ireland on a clear day) and pretty harbours, with many unspoiled places to discover, including Ballochroy Standing Stones, Saddell Castle, Keil Caves and Beinn An Tuirc Distillery. There are also over six incredible golf courses and it is just a few hours' drive from Glasgow and Edinburgh. ⬥ 26

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IMAGE COURTESY OF AND © VISITSCOTLAND / PAUL TOMKINS

SCOTLAND


IN THE CITY

EDINBURGH, SCOTLAND

Observatory House

New to the Dream Escape property collection, the historic 18th–century Observatory House on Calton Hill, part of Edinburgh's dramatic skyline, has been revitalised by Collective – the centre for contemporary art on Calton Hill, with profits going to support the charitable organisation's mission to bring people together around new art. Don't miss our Ten of the Best Scottish Art article on page 86.

THE FOX AT ODDINGTON — Opening in June 2022, The Fox, tucked away in the picturesque Cotswold’s village of Oddington, will be Carole Bamford’s second pub with rooms, following the launch of The Wild Rabbit. The Fox at Oddington joins The Wild Rabbit and Daylesford Cottages, 14 self-catered cottages based at the farm and neighbouring Kingham Village. Already wellloved as a pit stop for country walks, a cottage opposite a pub with its own private walled garden offers an alternative place to stay. ⬥

ENGLISH GARDEN ECCENTRICS Three Hundred Years of Extraordinary Groves, Burrowings, Mountains and Menageries — In his new book, English Garden Eccentrics, renowned landscape architect and historian Todd Longstaffe-Gowan reveals a series of obscure and eccentric English garden-makers who, between the early 17th and the early 20th centuries, created intensely personal and idiosyncratic gardens. With quirky and compelling illustrations and chapters, English Garden Eccentrics brings together garden and landscape history with cultural insights and biography. ⬥

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Heckfield Place

Meet the Chef Interview with Skye Gyngell

One of Britain’s most respected chefs, Skye Gyngell talks seasonality, simplicity and reconnecting with the land at luxury hotel, Heckfield Place. WORDS | SOPHIE FARRAH

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UCKED AWAY in leafy Hampshire lies Heckfield Place, a grand Georgian home and sprawling estate that redefines the idea of a luxury hotel for the modern age. Here, nature is king, and every effort is made to enable guests to slow down and feel a sense of connection to their surroundings. From the handcrafted natural materials used throughout the hotel’s soothing interiors, to the ever-changing seasonal menus created with produce from the hotel’s own farm, dairy and orchards, Heckfield exudes a uniquely serene sense of place. “It could be the 18th century, or it could be 2025 – time seems to stop at Heckfield,” muses

Skye Gyngell, the hotel’s culinary director and one of Britain’s most acclaimed chefs. “Even though it’s close to London, it really feels a world away...” A similar distance, perhaps, between the eminent chef that we know today and 17-yearold Syke, who had no interest in cooking and was instead reading law at Sydney University. “When I was studying, I got a job washing up in a little charcuterie, and the woman who owned it was incredibly encouraging of me. She would teach me how to make things, like mayonnaise from scratch, and I completely fell in love with it,” Skye recalls affectionately. “I wasn't particularly confident as a teenager →

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Spring and Heckfield Place, where she has overseen all things edible since its conception and subsequent opening in 2018. The 17th-century Georgian mansion took seven years to meticulously restore from its classical origins, lovingly reimagined by American owner Gerald Chan and UK-based interior designer Ben Thompson. “It was a real passion project for Gerald, so in many ways it feels like a home. He has been over every detail – he literally knows every cushion. The walls are covered in his beautiful art collection, it's full of flowers picked from the gardens and the air just runs through it. It’s a very comfortable, contemplative place.” Dream Escape's Travel Design team organise restorative stays in the hotel’s 39 beautiful bedrooms and five sumptuous ‘signature rooms’, many of which offer sweeping views across the 400-acre estate and the countryside beyond.

Pictured previous spread: Skye Gyngell, culinary director, Heckfield Place Pictured left to right: Box of produce from Heckfield Home Farm; Ice cream made using fresh Heckfield cream; Marle Restaurant

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and I realised that as soon as I was in the kitchen, I felt comfortable and grounded. It became my happy place.” Having discovered her raison d'être, Skye quit university and trained as a chef in Sydney and then Paris. Next, a move to London and the role of head chef at the now renowned Petersham Nurseries Café, where Skye quickly became well known for her distinctively seasonal, elegant cooking. In 2011, it earned her a Michelin star. Today, she divides her time between chic London restaurant

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From day one, we wanted to make everything at Heckfield. “ Every jam, every cordial, the breads and pastries, the liquors in the bar, the ice cream - everything...” On a clear day, Windsor Castle can be spotted in the distance. Also on the estate is a pretty, timber-framed twobedroom cottage, Church Lodge, ideal for families looking for stylish seclusion. The epitome of Georgian elegance, the hotel’s interiors are graceful and contemporary while also effortlessly welcoming and warm. Skye’s approach to the hotel’s food offering is similarly thoughtful and flawlessly executed, with her signature style of simplicity, seasonality and sustainability evident throughout. “From day one, we wanted to make everything at Heckfield. Every jam, every cordial, the breads and pastries, the liquors in the bar, the ice cream –

everything. We also produce our own eggs and honey, and we have our own dairy, so we make things like yoghurt and milk. We even have a Heckfield cheese,” she explains. “It’s a huge undertaking, but we’ve really tried to capture that sense of place. In the rooms you’ll find freshly baked biscuits and fresh fruit from the garden, and guests love that the cream in their coffee or the milk in their porridge has also come from the estate. That’s what we’re trying to do – it's about making that connection to your surroundings and enjoying the immediacy of it,” she adds. “It definitely tastes better too. Blueberries from Peru are probably about two weeks old by the time they

get to the supermarket – it's just not the same as a ripe plum that has been picked in the orchard that morning.” If the House is the heart of Heckfield, then the biodynamic garden and certifiedorganic farm is its soul. All manner of fresh ingredients are harvested every day ready to be served in one of the hotel’s two beautiful restaurants; there is the light-filled Marle, which in 2022 was awarded a Michelin Green Star; a prestigious accolade that recognises an outstanding commitment to sustainability as well as culinary excellence. Here, guests can enjoy the likes of Heckfield lamb with broad beans, peas, turnips and horseradish cream, farm leaves with shallot vinaigrette, and hazelnut →

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Pictured left to right: The Glass House, where afternoon tea is served; Open-fire kitchen in Hearth

At Hearth, the “food is very soulful,

and the fire gives a very particular flavour which is incredibly beautiful

meringue cake with home-made rhubarb ice cream. Elsewhere there is Hearth, once the estate stable, where a curated selection of dishes is cooked over an open fire; the fivecourse tasting menu, exclusively for hotel guests, is not to be missed. For an exquisite dining experience, Dream Escape’s travel designers organise the elegant Dining Room, a private space with a long wooden table, antique furniture and soft lighting. “At Hearth, the food is very soulful, and the fire gives a very particular flavour which is incredibly beautiful. It’s also a very cosy space, filled with sheepskins and blankets. Gerald refused to put any lighting outside, so at night it's really dark, like proper countryside. Everything about it is very intimate,” explains Skye. “My style of food is quite ‘magpie’, I take bits and pieces from everywhere, but the one thread that goes through it all is purity of ingredients. All the menus at

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Heckfield are incredibly produce-driven, with every ingredient speaking for itself. It’s very stripped-back cooking,” she adds. “Without wanting to sound like a cliché, and I think it does with chefs a lot now, but provenance of ingredients is really important to me. I believe that food grown in good, clean soil is really important; we talk about the ocean's health, but we need to think about soil health as well.” Softly spoken Skye talks warmly and almost poetically about the symbiotic relationship between her cooking and the abundant produce that the estate

provides, but while the kitchen and farm work hand in hand, what is available when is entirely down to the earth’s natural rhythms. “When you work really seasonally, you get so excited about ingredients,” she enthuses. “One of my favourites is mulberries, I used to pick them with my grandfather so they're very nostalgic for me. Mulberry ice cream is my dream!” Heckfield’s further gastronomic delights include celestial-inspired cocktails made with ingredients from the gardens, served under a giant →

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Pictured clockwise from bottom: Sourdough bread; Seasonal dessert in Marle; Drawing Room; Seasonal dishes in Hearth Pictured opposite page left to right: View to the House over the Upper Lake; The Pavillion in summer down by the Lower Lake

We always leave one lovely “cake out for people to help

themselves to, like it was their own house. We make all our own jams for the cakes too

disco ball in the small but perfectly formed Moon Bar. In the warmer months, a sumptuous, seasonal afternoon tea is served in the light-flooded Glasshouse tucked away in the garden and, whatever the weather, a freshly baked cake appears in the House each afternoon. “We always leave one lovely cake out for people to help themselves to, like it was their own house. We make all our own jams for the cakes too,” says Skye. After a slice (or two…), there is plenty of

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opportunity to enjoy the great British countryside that surrounds the luxurious, rural escape. Guests can go wild swimming and boating on the estate’s beautiful lakes, explore ancient woodlands, take part in outdoor meditation and exercise classes or enjoy a spot of badminton, croquet or pétanque. Cycling and hiking are also available, along with guided walks of the estate and gardens, and regular tours of the farm. Dream Escape coordinates further country pursuits, such as fishing, birdwatching, falconry and archery, and local activities including clay pigeon shooting, golf, horse riding and more. A trip to the nearby pretty village of Chawton, once home to English novelist Jane Austen, is another wonderful way to spend an afternoon. Back at the House, there is an incredibly glamorous and deeply comfortable state-of-the-


art screening room and event space, which hosts a busy programme of new film releases, in-person workshops and regular talks by guest speakers. There’s also an extensive library, vast wine cellar and an elegant Drawing Room, where board games and squishy sofas await. If pampering appeals, then Dream Escape’s travel designers arrange luxurious treatments at the hotel’s charming Little Bothy spa, which uses ethically sourced, all-natural products from the hotel’s own Wildsmith Skin range. A larger spa, with an indoor swimming pool, is due to open in 2022. “There’s plenty to do, but it’s a slow pace. We’re so busy and overstimulated in life, at Heckfield you can just curl up with the newspaper and listen to the crackle of the fire. It’s an incredibly restorative place,” says Skye. While guests soak up Heckfield’s soothing ambience, it is of course a different story in the kitchen for Skye and her team, but as the old adage goes; ‘if you do what you love, you'll never work a day in your life’… “I'm definitely not as quick as everybody else in the kitchen, it's very much a young person's game. It's long hours, you need a lot of physical and mental energy, but I love it. I love it today as much as I did when I first started 40 years ago,” Skye smiles. “I would have been a terrible lawyer anyway...”

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Sally Strange, Blue Badge Guide “I visited Heckfield Place on a perfect winter’s day when all thoughts of spring seemed distant. But despite the dormant season, there were signs of nature everywhere in abundant displays of autumn foliage, bowls brimming with seasonal fruits, and glasses filled with herbs just waiting for the mixicologist to shake up a cocktail. Heckfield Place truly encapsulates a ‘home from home’ sense of welcome and, whatever the season, this unique hotel truly promises the perfect place to retreat, rest, and recharge whilst being cocooned in a sophisticated ambience eating the freshest and finest of foods. And that’s before even beginning to explore what lies within the estate : roll on summer!” ⬥

sally@dreamescape.co.uk

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Charley Boorman INTERVIEW

WITH

With countless travel documentaries under his belt, there is almost nowhere on the planet that TV star and motorbike enthusiast Charley Boorman hasn’t explored. Now, the famous adventurer is gearing up for his next big trip: an exclusive, action-packed tour of Scotland, where Dream Escape guests can discover one of the intrepid explorer’s favourite countries, with the man himself. WORDS | SOPHIE FARRAH

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“My career basically disappeared because I kept taking movies based on their fantastic filming locations, rather than the script!” he laughs. In 1996, on the set of The Serpent’s Kiss, a chance meeting with actor and fellow motorcycle enthusiast Ewan McGregor led to a lifelong friendship and numerous televised adventures; most recently The Long Way Up, which saw the pair travelling 13,000 miles through 13 countries, from Ushuaia in Argentina to Los Angeles, all on electric motorcycles. “Electric gives you a completely different connection to your surroundings,” Charley explains. “I remember pulling over in Patagonia and there was a herd of llamas by the road, and because we didn’t have big vibrating engines, they didn’t run away. We pulled up beside them and they just sat there with their long eyelashes, blinking at us.”

IMAGES ARE COURTESY OF © BELSTAFF / HARLEY DAVIDSON / APPLE TV+ / VISITSCOTLAND/SCOTTISH VIEWPOINT

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ORN IN LONDON in 1966, Charley Boorman caught the travel bug young. As the son of acclaimed film director, John Boorman, he grew up in Ireland, Los Angeles and the UK, and spent his formative years travelling the world, hopping from one filming location to the next. “My dad always enjoyed a challenge, I think I definitely get my sense of adventure from him,” Charley smiles. “We followed him around the world, wherever he was going, and if there were any roles in his films for children, he’d just use us, because we were free!” While unpaid, these early roles marked the start of Charley’s on-screen career; as an actor, he had successes with the likes of Excalibur, The Emerald Forest and more, but it wasn’t long before his wanderlust started to prove a distraction…


Pictured previous page: Charley Boorman on his Harley Davidson electric Livewire bike Pictured left to right: Charley Boorman and Ewan McGregor go the ‘Long Way Up’ from Patagonia to LA on electric motorcycles; Charley Boorman riding in the wild on his Harley Davidson

Dozens more TV series, a few serious bike crashes and a brush with testicular cancer later, and Charley’s appetite for adventure remains as insatiable as ever, and while he may have been around the world a few times now, there is one particular place that he carries a torch for… “I’ve been visiting Scotland for over 30 years now, it’s a big part of my life, and it’s the most extraordinary place. I am passionate about it,” he explains. Using their combined experience and unrivalled local knowledge, Dream Escape and Charley have created a completely unique itinerary designed to uncover the wild

Electric [motorcycle] gives you a “completely different connection to your surroundings” side of Scotland, featuring luxurious accommodation, once-in-a-lifetime outdoor experiences, and Charley’s charismatic company throughout. “The whole trip is also going to have a real eco feel to it. It’s for like-minded people who want all the creature comforts but also want a little bit of adventure…” he grins. “Of course, the easiest part of an adventure is actually doing it – it’s the planning that’s the hardest thing!” Meticulously organised by Dream Escape for a small group or family, this ultra-exclusive experience has sustainability at its heart. All accommodation combines top-level luxury →

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While Dream Escape’s extraordinary “ itinerary may sound action-packed, there is

also plenty of time to chat to Charley about his many adventures as you soak up some of the stunning scenery that Scotland is famous for

Pictured left to right: Red deer at Beecraigs Country Park; Charley Boorman in the Long Way Up

with the highest eco standards, whilst a carefully curated range of outdoor activities focus on the country’s stunning wilderness and wildlife, including unforgettable experiences with local experts and visits to pioneering environmental projects. “We can fish with expert ghillies, go deer stalking, climbing and so much more,” Charley enthuses. “We’ve also got a survival expert joining us so that guests can understand a bit more about the local environment and learn some important skills.” There are also some exciting food experiences to look forward to; selfconfessed ‘foodie’ Charley once competed in hit TV series Celebrity MasterChef, and when he’s not on the open road, he loves spending time in the kitchen. “I love to cook, and eat. And there is so much amazing produce in Scotland. Salmon, whisky, beef, and the best shellfish in the world! I know a guy there who free-dives for scallops, and I absolutely love langoustines,” he says. “We’ve also got some amazing chefs lined up, and we’re planning to do a bit of wild cooking with an expert, which is great for me as I want to pick up some tips.” Throughout the trip, exclusive transport will include state-of-the-art electric vehicles (and the opportunity to e-mountain bike), horse riding, hiking, and more, and there is also the option to

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join Charley on two wheels...“We’re going to being staying in some really special places; incredible, remote estates where we can travel from one to the other overland. We’ll be moving from place to place, but it won’t be hectic,” he explains. “When we get up into the West Coast, there’s some really dramatic coastline and some great riding. You get these incredible twisting roads. But it’s not a biker trip, the motorcycle thing is optional.” While Dream Escape’s extraordinary itinerary may sound action-packed, there is also plenty of time to chat to Charley about his many adventures as you soak up some of the stunning scenery that Scotland is famous for. “It’s such a wild, beautiful country. If you wake up early and go for a walk and see the way the light bounces off the heather; what a place!” he says. “I am so excited to give people a taste of it, and to show them that you don’t have to go to the Galápagos Islands to have a great adventure.”

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Louise Murray, Head of Product “This once-in-a-lifetime 10-day trip will be perfect for a small group or family wanting to discover the breathtaking scenery and wildlife of Scotland in the most eco-friendly way. Charley will be with you the whole time, and you will be staying on carefully selected remote luxury estates, which have a strong sustainable ethos. You will travel between estates by your choice of eco vehicles and, where possible, the group will potentially cover some of the distance on foot, horseback or by electric bikes. We will also be bringing in specialists along the way such as photographers, artists, ghillies, chefs and survival experts.” ⬥

louise@dreamescape.co.uk

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Interview with Lord Carnarvon

Downton Abbey Inside the real

Lord Carnarvon talks to Dream Escape about the challenges and reality of running and maintaining Highclere Castle in the 21st century WORDS | ANNABEL MACKIE

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LTHOUGH HIGHCLERE CASTLE is the real ancestral home to the 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon, whose family have lived there since 1679, it is now recognised the world over as the fictional home of the aristocratic Crawley family and the staff that served them in Downton Abbey, the awardwinning historical drama television series, and subsequent eponymous movie. Set in the glorious Hampshire countryside, the Downton Abbey film crew were spoiled with choice of where to film, given the magnificent stately home has over 300 opulently decorated rooms and 1,000 acres of spectacular parkland.

And with the movie sequel, Downton Abbey: A New Era soon to be released, viewers yet again will feast their eyes on the beauty and grandeur of this spectacular Gothic Italian mansion. In a candid interview with Lord Carnarvon, he admits that some areas of the castle had been in pretty poor shape but that Downton together with Highclere’s highly acclaimed Egyptian Exhibition have helped enormously with some much-needed restoration and renovation projects. Lord Carnarvon is full of enthusiasm about the future of Highclere, and tells Dream Escape about several of the exciting projects that he, and his wife Lady Fiona, are currently working on. →

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Pictured previous page: The South-East Corner of the Castle Pictured left to right: The Saloon; The Music Room; The Drawing Room

How was Highclere chosen as the Downton film location? To be fair, Sir Julian Fellowes, who did such a wonderful job with the Downton script, and his wife Emma, were already friends and had been to stay with us and so knew the building well. Highclere was one of the first places they came to see but then they disappeared for a long time. We’d thought they’d given up on us and we were away in the middle of Italy when Julian called and told us to come back as they’d decided it was going to be Highclere! Has Highclere been used as a location before? Yes, it has. It appeared in Stanley Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut and was used as one of the fictional locations – Totleigh Towers – in Jeeves and Wooster (a British comedy drama TV series).

Despite all the challenges, Lord Carnarvon knows how fortunate he is to be living in such a unique place, saying that: “It is an extraordinary privilege to be living in this amazing landscape, and even on a horrible dull day like today there is something beautiful to be seen.” Do you live at Highclere full-time? For a long time now, we have actually lived in a smaller house, barely 60 metres away from the main house, but when we want to have lots of friends to stay we move in, just as we did for our recent Burns Night party and shoot. We also move in when Downton is being filmed.

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Why do you think Highclere worked so well for Downton? One of the things that Julian would have recognised apart from the beauty of the house, its standing in the historic landscape and that fact it’s only 55 miles from London, is its design. You have the majestic arrival when you come into the extraordinary Gothic hall then the arching height of the main saloon and the

amazing staircase where people can come down looking glorious for dinner, so it’s an ideal setting in a theatrical sense. Do visitors get to see ‘below stairs’ at Highclere? As we have this fantastic Egyptian Exhibition in the basement, visitors get to see a lot of the below stairs area on the way down.

Tell us more about The Egyptian Exhibition? We installed it about 12 years ago to display objects that relate back to my great-grandfather (George, the 5th Earl) and his archaeologist friend Howard Carter’s discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922. A large part of the original collection was sold and can now be seen in The Met Museum in → dreamescapemagazine.com

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visitors enter Highclere, they can see the beautiful 18th–century “When parkland and are able to wander around 20 acres of gardens...”


Pictured left to right: The Monks Garden; London Lodge; The Smoking Room

New York. My great-grandfather was a pioneer in many things and my wife Fiona is writing a book on his amazing life. We could never have forecast the success of the exhibition and it coincided with the Downton series with bringing in many new visitors. Together these successes have allowed us to fix up so many things, such as the follies, the walled garden and the Victorian greenhouses.

the second floor so we can now fill up our dining room table with people that can stay happily in the house and have hot water! It’s also allowed us to fix up things like the glorious 18th-century follies, which bring in no income whatsoever but are a key part of Highclere’s heritage and landscape. How many follies are there? Seven. One of them, The Temple of Diana I fixed up years ago and this was the lake scene folly built by Sir Charles Barry in 1836 as a trial project before embarking on the creation of Highclere Castle. What we’ve done in the past 10 years is restore London Lodge, a triumphal entrance arch that has lodges on either side, and made it into a holiday cottage and we’ve restored Winchester Arch too. Both use Coade stone, an important new building material developed by Eleanor Coade, an architectural engineer. She had to pretend to be a boy at the first part of her career to be taken seriously! →

Was Highclere struggling financially pre-Downton? It is a question I am often asked. After my Pa died in 2001, it coincided with a boom in corporate hospitality and events, and so Fiona and I literally worked our socks every off day and night. We earned enough to fix the worst bits, such as the roof of the saloon area. The great thing about the success of Downton is that it has allowed us to fix up the bedrooms on the first and on dreamescapemagazine.com

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My grandfather established the Secret Garden in the 1970s... We have “ recently worked hard to really improve this garden and it does look rather amazing with all types of sights and smells” How did Charles Barry get involved with the design? Barry, as a young man, spent his time touring in Italy drawing all the beautiful buildings. He came back home and used his skill as a draughtsman with his extraordinary imagination to create these amazing Italian Gothic buildings, which was the design specification given to him by my ancestor. At the same time, Barry was designing The Palace of Westminster (UK Parliament) which was an even more complex operation because it was on the riverbank.

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Tell us more about the gardens? When visitors enter Highclere, they can see the beautiful 18th-century parkland and are able to wander around 20 acres of gardens, including the Secret Garden and the beautiful Arboretum. Fiona and I created the Arboretum about 14 years ago and it’s really coming along now, with lots of native English trees, bulbs, and shrubs. We also created five acres of wild meadow that looks amazing in the summer. And we’ve planted some Japanese cherry trees – a gift from the Japanese people – so hopefully when

they blossom it will look like you are visiting Tokyo or Washington! Tell us more about the Secret Garden? My grandfather established the Secret Garden in the 1970s with his landscape artist friend Jim Russell. In fact, the first film I was involved in at Highclere was the CBS version of Secret Garden that was filmed here in 1988. We have recently worked hard to really improve this garden and it does look rather amazing, with all types of sights and smells.


Your wife has written many books on Highclere? Due to the success of Downton, Fiona wrote a book called, Lady Almina and the Real Downton Abbey. Almina (the 5th Countess) was extraordinary, a real powerhouse of energy, and was the daughter of Alfred Rothschild. She not only transformed Highclere but also turned it into a fully operational hospital for the first two years of WWI.

Many big houses were used as convalescent homes – as Julian portrayed in Downton – but few were run as hospitals. However, sexist it sounds today, it was incredibly rare for a woman to be running a military hospital. Fiona also wrote a book about my father’s American mother, another strong lady called Catherine Wendell, as well as several glossy coffee-table books about Highclere.

What’s your favourite room in Highclere? One of the rooms I like the most is the Smoking Room. It’s the most stunning room which features the huge and beautiful still-life landscape painted by the famous Dutch artist Jan Weenix. Do you or your family appear in Downton? No, we didn’t ever get involved because →

Pictured left to right: Harry Hadden-Paton stars as Bertie Pelham, Laura Carmichael as Lady Edith, Tuppence Middleton as Lucy Smith, and Allen Leech as Tom Branson in Downton Abbey, A New Era; Laura Haddock stars as Myrna Dalgleish and Michael Fox as Andy in Downton Abbey, A New Era

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We have planted some vines so, hopefully, over the next “ few years we will have Chateau Highclere English Sparkling Wine, which would be rather fun” we had so much to do behind the scenes, as the filming days were long and the whole estate was part of the set. Did you get to know any of the actors? Lots of them, such as Jim Carter (Carson), Hugh Bonneville (Earl Grantham), Lesley Nicol (Mrs Patmore) and Joanna Froggat (Mrs Bates). They’ve all popped back to see us. During filming we all became family: the location people, directors, actors, everyone... Why does Highclere appeal to US visitors? Many Americans came to visit as they were 50

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interested in Egyptology, but now we have even more since Downton. Highclere also has quite a few US connections, as my mother was born in Wyoming, my uncle was senator for Wyoming and my grandmother was from Virginia. I believe your father was a great friend with HRH Queen Elizabeth II? Yes, he was a lifelong friend, and after the war he was Her Majesty’s racing manager and they both shared a huge interest in horses. Do you keep in touch with her? Absolutely. In fact, Highclere Castle Gin

IMAGES IN THIS FEATURE ARE COURTESY OF AND © ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES / BEN BLACKALL / 2021 FOCUS FEATURES, LLC / HIGHCLERE CASTLE

Pictured clockwise from left: The Entrance to the Monks Garden; Dream Escape's Blue Badge Guide, Sally Strange with Lord Carnarvon; The South-East Corner of the Castle; Hugh Bonneville stars as Robert Grantham and Michelle Dockery as Lady Mary in Downton Abbey, A New Era


sponsored a horse race in Salisbury last year and it was her filly that won the race. We sent Her Majesty a bottle of gin and she kindly wrote us a thank you. Is gin another new venture? Yes, it came slightly out of the blue when a friend in the spirits business said why don’t we collaborate. It’s been very popular and won lots of awards. What’s the next project? We have planted some vines so, hopefully, over the next few years we will have Chateau Highclere English Sparkling Wine, which would be rather fun. How do you see your children being involved going forward? Well, George is the oldest, then there’s my daughter Saoirse and Edward is the youngest. I hope they all have ideas that add value and keep the whole place going. The old idea that you just sat back taking in rent to keep a place like this is long gone. The Downton Abbey sequel film, Downton Abbey, A New Era, will be in theatres in 2022.

Find out more

Holly Mackie, Owner and Director “We pride ourselves on our insider knowledge and personal connections, and to share this magnificent stately home with clients as part of our amazing 'set-jetting' itineraries is very special and a truly immersive experience for anyone to enjoy.” ⬥

holly@dreamescape.co.uk

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From the Dream Escape Podcast Series:

Heavenly Ireland

Dream Escape talks to Barry O'Callaghan about CLIFF, his collection of stunning five-star properties that showcase the very best of this captivating country. WORDS | SOPHIE FARRAH

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RELAND IS WIDELY celebrated for its abundant natural beauty, from its rolling hills and lush green countryside to its rugged cliffs and miles of stunning coastline. Add to this its rich culture, fascinating history and the warmth of Irish hospitality, and it is a truly enchanting destination. CLIFF is a collection of stunning five-star properties that showcase the very best that this magical country has to offer, with owner Barry O'Callaghan’s palpable love for Ireland evident within each one. Located on the south coast, the contemporary, cutting-edge Cliff House Hotel hangs over the ocean in the historic fishing village of Ardmore. With its soft sand beaches, ancient relics and pretty thatched cottages, it is an exceptionally

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attractive area that exudes authentic Irish charm. Dream Escape's Travel Design team arrange stays at the stunning, 39-room boutique seaside property, which has been a part of Barry’s life long before he bought it. “I spent all my formative teenage years in Ardmore, a place that I fell in love with and still love to this day,” he explains. “When I was growing up, there was a charming country hotel called The Cliff on the site where our hotel now stands. Back then, it was a little two- or three-star property where grannies had their afternoon teas and fishermen came in the evening for a well-earned pint overlooking the pier. In fact, most of us trying to procure our first pint probably went there too!” he laughs. →

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Pictured previous page clockwise from left: Cliff House Hotel Terrace Suite; Reception Room; Swimming Pool; Deluxe Seaview Room Pictured: Horse riding on the beach as a guest of Cliff House Hotel

Having fallen in love with Ardmore at a young age and already being familiar with the hotel there all his life, when the previous property fell into disrepair and got stuck in a probate dispute, Barry eventually stepped in. “I broke all the business rules that you’re told, like don’t let emotion override business, etcetera. It was derelict, and I am not sure that I had a particular plan to open a hotel, but I think what immediately charmed me was the locals. Everybody got on board,” Barry explains. “To this day, I like to think that the charm of the hotel is that it’s not just a gated, elitist, beautiful building. It’s part of the community.” Barry, who is regarded as one of Ireland's finest visionary minds in the world of education, opened Cliff

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House Hotel on 18 April 2008, the day that would have been his late father’s 80th birthday. Today, it is considered one of the finest small luxury hotels in Ireland. Located an hour from the cities of Cork and Waterford, the luxury property is carved into a cliff on the south side of Ardmore Bay. From sun-drenched terraces and with full sea views from every sleek bedroom and suite, guests can admire golden sands, yachts and lobster pots, as well as the occasional dolphin or whale. Activities on-site or nearby include horse riding, sea swimming, boating, water sports, fishing, cycling, golf, foraging, wildlife watching, art sessions and more, as well as relaxing in the hotel’s stunning, state-of-the-art spa, which has an indoor infinity pool and a choice of treatments that use


I broke all the business rules that you’re told, like don’t let emotion “ override business, etcetera. It was derelict, and I am not sure that I had

a particular plan to open a hotel, but I think what immediately charmed me was the locals. Everybody got on board... all-natural products made with predominantly Irish ingredients. The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant, House, also uses outstanding produce from the local area and attracts foodies from across the world. “We were lucky enough to get a Michelin star in our second year of operating, but we wanted to counterbalance it in our Bar restaurant with more traditional Irish things like chowder and pints of

Guinness. We’ve tried to make the hotel a real blend,” Barry explains. Similarly, while the hotel provides all the luxurious comforts and stylish interiors that one would expect from a modern five-star property, when designing the hotel Barry was also keen to incorporate some of the area’s fascinating heritage, which guests can learn more about on a stunning cliff walk with a local historian. →

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tried “toWe’ve reflect that

in what was a contemporary build. It’s full of glass, and we’ve tried to infuse it with heart and soul

“Saint Patrick might have got all the fame and glory but his predecessor, Saint Declán, actually landed in the bay of Ardmore. So there’s a 4th-century Christian settlement right beside the hotel,” Barry explains. “We’ve tried to reflect that in what was a contemporary build. It’s full of glass, and we’ve tried to infuse it with heart and soul.” Perched just above Cliff House Hotel is Barry’s latest addition, Cliff Beach House; a new, architect-designed property with six beautiful bedrooms and floor-to-ceiling windows. Dream Escape arrange exclusive use of this stunning modern villa, which is ideally suited to groups of friends or multigenerational families. “It probably has the single best location in the whole village of Ardmore in terms of panoramic views and vista,” Barry explains. “And again, we’ve tried to infuse a bit of heritage into it.

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It has all the 21st-century amenities – a private gym, a cinema, a hot tub, and a beautiful Yamaha piano, but it’s also got a private vinyl collection of Irish music and some wonderful Irish literature.” For further cultural immersion, Dream Escape organise various fascinating experiences within the local area and beyond, including a trip on a private luxury cruiser to Hook Lighthouse, the oldest operational lighthouse in the world, and a visit to the legendary Lismore Castle, with a private tour of its spectacular gardens. Other bespoke activities include nature and wildlife adventures, cooking classes and more, enabling guests to experience their surroundings in authentic and memorable ways. Just a 30-minute drive from Dublin in rural Kildare, Cliff at Lyons is another exceptional property in the CLIFF portfolio that is steeped in history. Occupying →



an unusual collection of historic rose-clad buildings, including a mill and former dovecote, this lovingly restored 18th-century village is today a modern country retreat with a focus on wellness and gastronomy. It offers 22 beautiful bedrooms and suites, an award-winning spa, extensive kitchen gardens and direct access to picturesque canals and towpaths for activities such as kayaking, paddleboarding, walking, cycling and private barge trips. It is also home to beehives, a bakery and three restaurants, including the two-Michelin-starred AIMSIR, which celebrates the very best of Irish produce. “To me, the properties are a perfect yin and yang. Cliff House Hotel is a modern building

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To me, the properties are a perfect yin and yang. Cliff House Hotel is a “modern building overlooking the Atlantic, whereas Cliff at Lyons is this restored, but very old artisan village”

Pictured previous page clockwise from left: Cliff Beach House bedroom; lounge; bathroom; entrance Pictured clockwise from left: Cliff at Lyons Relaxation Room; three-bedroom cottage; Cliff House Hotel; bedroom; The Well in the Garden of Cliff at Lyons 'Peat for the Feet' Signature Treatment

overlooking the Atlantic, whereas Cliff at Lyons is this restored, but very old artisan village,” Barry explains. “They are totally different, and yet enjoy a lot of those same unique characteristics and features.” What is evident in each of Barry’s luxurious and distinctive properties is their sense of place; each one reflects the history, community and culture that it is part of, while simultaneously offering contemporary design and an exceptional level of comfort. “We’re not trying to build something on a big scale, we want to create bespoke offerings that are really unique,” explains Barry. “Ultimately, you’ve got to be true to whatever your mission statement is. You need to know exactly what you’re trying to do, and do it with honestly, integrity and longevity.”

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Listen to this and more from our podcast series: ‘Chatting with Holly’ Holly and the team pride themselves on the personal relationships and connections that they have with the owners of a variety of exceptional private properties and experiences in the UK and Ireland. These podcasts will give you an inside glimpse into some of these wonderful connections, many of whom are personal friends, as they talk candidly to Holly about their special properties and experiences. For more information about this exceptional coastal experience, get in touch with Lesley and the Travel Design Team on enquiries@dreamescape.co.uk ⬩

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In an English Country Garden:

Chelsea Flower Show 2022

Returning to its late spring schedule for 2022, the beautiful Chelsea Flower Show creates a floral wonderland for visitors, with a special focus this year on connecting with nature, bringing the wilderness back and the power of plants... WORDS | EMMA JOHNSON

Tuesday 24 May to Saturday 28 May 2022, at The Royal Hospital, Chelsea dreamescapemagazine.com

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LANTS HAVE LONG been known to have the power to bring joy and colour to our lives, to provide shade and shelter and to be a vital part of the planet’s biodiversity. And now, at this year’s Chelsea Flower Show, the focus is on showing the positive power of plants to improve not only lives, but livelihoods. From blossoming hedgerows, lush woodland and wildflower meadows to entire gardens designed to raise awareness of the work of a UK charity, the message from this year’s Show is that nature continues to be a force for good. To really know your way around, Dream Escape recommends starting your day at Chelsea Flower Show with breakfast at a nearby hotel, coupled with an insightful talk from a special garden guest speaker, who can talk about the Show and also accompany you around the gardens. Our experts are charming, highly regarded and armed with a wealth of knowledge about English gardens and native planting. Todd Longstaffe-Gowan, for instance, has worked with Dream Escape for many years, and is the gardens adviser to Historic Royal Palaces. He has also hosted groups at Hampton Court and Kensington Palace. His new book English Garden Eccentrics is published in April 2022, and is packed with plenty of stories about some of the most renowned and beautiful English gardens, and gardeners, from history. “Attending the show on members day with an expert guide, followed by a leisurely journey to visit some of England’s greatest and most glorious gardens is the ultimate treat for anyone”, shares Dream Escape’s Travel Designer and in-house garden expert, Caroline Charnock.

BACK TO THE WILD

For all visitors to the Show this year, the overriding impression is of a lush landscape of native British flowers and plants that support wildlife, and add a rich colour palette to our green and pleasant land. From nettles, cow parsley, poppies and buttercups to 62

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Pictured previous page left to right: The Duchess of Cambridge at the RHS Chelsea Flower show; Circle of Life, Sanctuary Garden, Designed by Yoshihiro Tamura Pictured: Morris & Co, Show Garden, designed by Ruth Willmott

hazel, crab apple, weeping willow and hornbeam, the variety of flora on display to visitors comprises swathes of green speckled with whites, creams and pinks throughout the show. First-time Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) Chelsea designers Lulu Urquhart and Adam Hunt will use native plants, including hawthorn and field maples, to demonstrate the dramatic transformation of land through beaver reintroductions; while designer Joe Perkins aims to highlight the connection between plants and fungi in our woodland ecosystems in a garden featuring over 3,000 plants and trees, including sweet chestnut. Exhibiting in the Great Pavilion, the gardens involved in the All About Plants category will visualise the many ways plants can positively influence mental health, community, and industry. Lottie Delamain’s ‘A Textile Garden for Fashion Revolution’ raises important questions about the link between


The Morris & Co. garden reimagines two classic patterns by Victorian designer William Morris, while the Perennial Garden is a classical yet contemporary design that elegantly combines hornbeam hedging with hawthorn trees – providing structure and symmetry along a rill. And back for only its second year, the House Plant Studios encourage visitors to think about bringing outside in, with a range of studios featuring some inspiring ways to use houseplants in the home. There’s so much to see, and with Dream Escape you’ll gain VIP access to this and other top garden shows, like the RHS Hampton Court Flower Show in July, and exclusive private garden events. “We will help you discover a heady mix of gardens – some world-renowned, such as Highgrove, RHS Wisley and Gravetye Manor, and other hidden gems – which are a Dream Escape secret,” teases Caroline Charnock. “On paths both well and less trodden, you will be amazed by the gardens’ diversity of character, colour and arrangement”.

FROM FIELD TO PLATE

natural dyes and the fashion industry, while mental health counsellor Pollyanna Wilkinson uses her planting to reflect the journey of recovery many women face in motherhood, with a muted palette transitioning to bright and exuberant colour to reflect a journey from despair to hope. The feeling of connectedness with nature continues in ‘A Garden Sanctuary’, comprising rich and vibrant green woodland planting and an immersive tree canopy; a theme echoed by the COP26 Garden, designed to show how gardens, plants and public green spaces can play an integral part in protecting our planet and people.

BEST IN SHOW

Of course, one of the highlights of the Chelsea Flower Show is always the show gardens, where designers and creators in the past have included the likes of the Duchess of Cambridge.

Echoing the enduring message throughout this year’s Show, the gastronomic offering also reminds visitors of the importance of sustainable agriculture and protecting the planet’s biodiversity. As headline sponsor, The Newt in Somerset – a working estate in rural Somerset – brings to the Show a shared belief in the power of gardening for good. (Read more in our Somerset article, page 78) Inspired by local heritage and sustainable farming, The Newt comprises farmland, orchards, restaurants, a cyder cellar, a luxury hotel and acres of gardens that have been lovingly tended to for over 250 years. The gardens’ latest incarnation takes visitors on a journey through horticultural history, mixing ornamental and productive elements; a feast for the eyes and stomach. Also blending gardens and gastronomy, is Jardin Blanc, with menus designed by Jardin Blanc’s chef director, Raymond Blanc OBE. This magical place has views across the Show’s gardens combined with an incredible selection of art, and Dream Escape can arrange special hospitality experiences at Jardin Blanc, which includes a luxurious four-course meal with Champagne and live music. → dreamescapemagazine.com

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Elsewhere, you’ll find the quintessential Drawing Room, where you can have a floral-inspired Champagne afternoon tea, created and served by the award-winning team from The Dorchester. Nearby, by the Champagne and Seafood Restaurant serves sustainable fish and shellfish, and a sumptuous ‘Chelsea Brunch’, all matched with fine wines and ice-cold Champagnes.

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Carefully selected accommodation completes the landscape. “Perfectly placed, we will always select luxurious properties that will help you discover the gardens of England in true style. The Dream Escape Garden programmes will always allow you the time to indulge your senses and smell the roses, whilst embracing the great English countryside,” adds Caroline Charnock.

IMAGES ARE COURTESY OF AND © RHS / HANNAH MCKAY / YOSHIHIRO TAMURA / RUTH WILLMOTT / ANDY STURGEON / CITYSCAPES / RICHARD MIERS / LILLY GOMM / ISHIHARA KAZUYUKI / TOMAS HOBLYN

Pictured clockwise from left to right: The Mind Garden, designed by Andy Sturgeon; Rosie Peattie, Dream Escape's Head of Guiding at the Chelsea Flower Show; St Mungo's Putting Down Roots Garden by Cityscapes; The Perennial Garden 'With Love', Designed by Richard Miers


We attend the Chelsea Flower Show every year and it never disappoints. Our passion and love of gardens across the UK and Ireland is always shared with our clients, delivering magical experiences every time Rosie Peattie, Head of Guiding and Blue Badge Guide

THREE GARDEN HIGHLIGHTS

A Swiss Sanctuary, by Lilly Gomm

Inspired by and echoing travels to Switzerland, the garden is conceived as an imaginary personal sanctuary, pulling together the unique flora that typifies different regions of the country. Mixing alpine and Mediterranean planting, the garden is designed to echo the Swiss landscape and includes large stones to represent mountains, falling water and pools reminiscent of lakes and waterfalls, as well as bespoke iron benches, wooden cladding, and a mixture of colours and contrasting textures, including apple trees, Scots pine, and Edelweiss – a plant symbolic of Switzerland.

ZEN Garden, by Kazuyuki Ishihara

With a gentle reminder to live in the moment and engage with nature in a mindful way, The ZEN Garden has quiet yet dynamic structures. Water moves slowly, a simple rock garden offers a place for contemplation, while black-granite stripes laid in the stone garden create harmony between greenery and stone. Drawing on Japanese satoyama, or mountain lowlands, the garden features freshly leafed green acers, watercress and iries.

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Caroline Charnock, Travel Design Manager & Garden Expert “To be able to share my passion and expertise on gardens and garden tours with our clients is so rewarding. Attending prestigious events like the Chelsea Flower Show is certainly one of the highlights of the RHS calendar, but to discover our wonderful gardens in all their glory throughout the year is what turns our private garden experiences into memories of a lifetime; and I simply cannot wait to share with you some of my absolute favourites.” ⬥

caroline@dreamescape.co.uk

The Boodles Travel Garden, by Tom Hoblyn

Designed to celebrate the 16-day world trip taken in 1962 by Anthony Wainwright, grandfather to the current chairperson of Boodles, the Boodles Travel Garden draws on planting from the four corners of the world. A true global garden, water features flow like rivers, while trees provide shade and calm, and in the flower beds and pots, tree ferns, dogwoods and acers blend native plants from India, East Asia and the US.

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Horses for Courses

Ireland’s Thoroughbred County, Kildare just outside Dublin, promises an unexpected itinerary to raise the holiday stakes WORDS | JILLIAN BOLGER



Pictured previous page: Racing at the Curragh Racecourse Pictured clockwise from left: Japanese Gardens; Jockey Chris Hayes; The Palmer Ryder Cup Course 16th Hole; visitors of Curragh meeting some living legends; newborn foal at the National Stud

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HE ROAR OF THE CROWD. The swish of a mane. The flash of silks. The thrum of the turf, as the horses thunder past. Race day is an intoxicating experience, and nowhere more so than in County Kildare, Ireland’s Thoroughbred County. Kildare may be Ireland’s flattest county, but what it lacks in dramatic topography it more than makes up for with its history, heritage and horse-racing pedigree. At the heart of the lush green landscape is the Curragh. a vast open plain renowned for horse breeding and training. Home to a legendary racecourse and the Irish National Stud & Gardens, it’s a magnet for equine enthusiasts the world over. Jockey Chris Hayes first rode a horse when he was six-yearsold. By the time he was 12, the young Limerick boy had joined Racing Academy & Centre of Education (RACE), Ireland’s apprentice race school for jockeys at the Curragh. “I’ve been competing professionally for 18 years, but riding horses for 28,” he laughs, half-surprised by the fact. Based on the Curragh training grounds throughout his entire professional career, he has a special connection to this fertile land, where some of the world’s most important stud farms breed thoroughbreds. “Racing at the Curragh is top class,” he declares. “It’s one of the best tracks in the world and it’s very fair. I really enjoy racing here because you can ride a horse any way you like. It’s not a front-runner's track, it’s not a hold-up track, it’s just a very, very fair, big, open, galloping track that gives every horse a chance.”

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More than an impressive racetrack, it’s where Ireland’s Classic races are contested, something that’s not lost on the jockeys who train and race here. “When you look at the roll of honour of trainers and jockeys that have won races here and won Classic races, it is very special,” he explains. “I am lucky that I am now on those lists for the Classic races I have won. My favourite memory is riding Awtaad to victory at the Tattersalls Irish 2000 Guineas in 2016. It was a real local success and one that I will never forget. There is so much history there, so when you ride any winner there it does mean that little bit more.” But don’t just take Chris’s word for it. Now you can visit the Curragh and walk in the footsteps of champions – both four-legged and two – with a Dream Escape Ultraluxe behind-the-scenes experience. A private tour, conducted by breeder-turned-manager Paul Keane, will take you to locations that are strictly off-limits on race days, from the inner sanctum of the jockeys’ changing room and weigh room to tacking up a mannequin racehorse, and standing on the podium at the Curragh parade ring. With access to the VIP top floor of the grandstand, you can see poetry in motion, as racehorses exercise on the famous Curragh gallops against the sweeping backdrop of this famous horse county. Close by, the Irish National Stud & Gardens has proudly produced some of the finest racehorses in Europe, and is one of the only thoroughbred breeding farms in the world


On a visit to the National Stud with clients, we were fortunate enough “ to see a new foal come into this world... Mother Nature certainly put on the ultimate private show for us that day. It was an unforgettable experience”

that welcomes the public. Owned and managed by the Irish government, the farm is available for a private tour for you to enjoy a rare insight into this lucrative industry. Get up close with famous stallions, stroll the paddocks and, should you visit in spring, you may be lucky to witness a future champion being born or exercised with its protective mare close by. “On a visit to the National Stud with clients, we were fortunate enough to see a new foal come into this world,” Sue Morris, Head of Marketing for Dream Escape shares. “Mother Nature certainly put on the ultimate private show for us that day. It was an unforgettable experience.” → dreamescapemagazine.com

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The K Club ‘features two

Arnold Palmer-designed championship golf courses, having hosted many high-profile tournaments including, The Ryder Cup and European Open Want to know what it feels like to own and race your own thoroughbred horse? Then don’t leave The National Stud without trying out the incredible Irish Racehorse Experience, an interactive new attraction that uses cutting-edge technology to put you in the centre of the horse world. You’ll enjoy a first-hand simulation of owning a thoroughbred, from training to riding and selecting your race-day silks before competing in a heartstopping real-time virtual-reality race. With your pulse racing – and maybe a champion’s cup under your belt – you can head for the mesmerising Japanese Gardens, the finest in Europe and part of the National Stud complex. These impeccable gardens were laid out over 100 years ago by a Japanese master horticulturist and his son, and are staggeringly beautiful and breathtaking. Of course, Kildare isn’t just noted for the Sport of

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Kings; this lush county is also celebrated for the calibre of its golf courses, which includes, arguably, the country’s best-known. The K Club features two Arnold Palmerdesigned championship golf courses, having hosted many high-profile tournaments, including The Ryder Cup and European Open. Part of an elegant 5-star resort on a private estate, the hotel is built around Straffan House, a glorious French-style manor completed in 1832 by Hugh Barton of Barton & Guestier, the oldest winehouse in Bordeaux. Today, the five-star resort offers the finest Irish hospitality, marrying heritage with the best in contemporary luxury. Golf fans don’t just have two championship parkland courses to choose from: the new K Golf World, opened just before the pandemic, offers a novel indoor golf experience where golfers can play any of the big courses in the world through state-of-the-art simulators.

IMAGES COURTESY OF AND © INPHO / MORGAN TREACY / RYAN BYRNEFROM / JENNIFER O'SULLIVAN / RUTH MARIA MURPHY 2021


Pictured clockwise from left: The K Club Palmer Restaurant; The K Club Palmer Terrace; The K Club Blue Martini Cocktail Bar; Cliff at Lyons Aimsir Lounge; Cliff at Lyons Cookery School

And with acres of private grounds to explore, you can be as active or indulgent as you like here. Try kayaking on the estate’s private mile-long stretch of the River Liffey or settle in for cocktails in The Blue Martini cocktail bar. Experience the noble art of falconry or a relaxing treatment in the award-winning K Spa. Ride out to explore the estate on horseback or enjoy a leisurely garden walk with the promise of afternoon tea afterwards. With wonderful dining options, from the two new casual restaurants – South in the hotel and The Palmer with outside terrace in the Clubhouse – to the finest formal and private dining, The K Club delivers excellence and epitomises all that’s special about The Thoroughbred County. Match your ultra-luxe experience with a heavenly stay at the Cliff at Lyons, a privately owned hotel and country retreat with indulgent dining and wellness. Perhaps take time to enjoy the luxury on-site spa, or dine in AIMSIR, one of Ireland’s top two-Michelin-starred restaurants celebrating Irish produce from both land or sea, or the more informal Mill Restaurant serving timeless classics. Read more about The Cliff at Lyons in our interview with owner Barry O'Callaghan on page 52.

Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Emer Mortell, Head of Sales “Dream Escape has personal connections with some of the most renowned stud owners in the country and we can arrange private tours and stays at country estates such as Kilshannig House, the home of Hugh Merry. There will always be something for everyone to enjoy in County Kildare, whether you are a horse enthusiast or just going along for the ride; a golfer or a lover of gardens and country estates steeped in rich history, Georgian architecture, art collections and artefacts. One thing that is a sure bet, you will not be disappointed.” ⬥

emer@dreamescape.co.uk

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Wales

Vale of Llangollen Wales' coastal and mountainous region, where local legends meet alluring landscapes WORDS | PORTIA JONES

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HE VALE OF LLANGOLLEN is a land of legends, Welsh princes and medieval churches. At the ‘Gateway of Wales’, Welsh history seamlessly blends with a cosmopolitan outlook and strong community bonds in a riverside setting. Here, you’ll find the narrowest stretch of the Dee Valley that carves through a UNESCO World Heritage landscape. This geographical setting is considered of ‘Outstanding Universal Value’ by UNESCO and includes eleven miles of canal, from Gledrid to the Horseshoe Falls via the remarkable Pontcysyllte Aqueduct.

It’s certainly an intriguing valley to explore and is dotted with many historical and religious remnants, including a weighty Gothic bridge, Cistercian abbeys and the medieval ruins of Castell Dinas Brân. The charming town of Llangollen is at the heart of the valley and is best known as the festival capital of Wales and plays host to the annual international Music Eisteddfod. Llangollen readily embraces the many oddities of festival culture and its enthusiasts. It’s not unusual to come across quilted bridges, bellowing town criers and feather-boa-clad ladies on stilts. Dream Escape recommend this as a destination best suited for hikers and heritage enthusiasts, given its proximity →

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meticulously rebuilding and restoring 10 miles of neglected lines and stations between Llangollen and Corwen for over 45 years. The result is a splendid community asset that makes for a unique family day out on the rails in Wales.

WHITE-WATER RAFTING ON THE RIVER DEE

With rugged mountain peaks, rocky coastlines and some of the best rivers in the UK to raft on, it’s easy to see why North Wales is branding itself as 'the adventure capital of Europe', and is also a Dream Escape favourite. Take a guided rafting trip down the lengthy River Dee in Llangollen and experience the adrenaline of paddling against the surging rapids, ranging from grades 2 to 4. Locally, these to historical canals and rail, and the long-distance Offa's Dyke Path. There’s also plenty of culture, boutique shopping and classy accommodation to discover as well. Despite drawing visitors for centuries, the Vale of Llangollen is a tourist favourite that still manages to feel undiscovered.

HERITAGE RAILWAY

Llangollen Railway is the only standard-gauge heritage railway in North Wales, taking visitors on a vintage voyage through captivating scenery. Board a 1950's carriage being hauled by a classic steam engine and enjoy a spot of nostalgia as the train follows the river and climbs the curves of a lush, green landscape. The line is a labour of love, as rail enthusiasts have been

Pictured previous page: Valle Crucis Abbey, Denbighshire Pictured clockwise from left: Berwyn Station, River Dee; white-water rafting, Horseshoe Falls river; Llangollen railway station and the river Dee; Pontcysyllte Aqueduct at sunrise

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rapid sections are known as Serpents Tail, Tombstones and the classic Town Falls, and are best navigated with qualified guides on an organised adventure activity. Enjoy scenic valley views as you crash through fast-flowing waves, sail through the shallows and plunge into deep pools on a river that shifts between turbulent and tranquil.

PONTCYSYLLTE AQUEDUCT AND HORSESHOE FALLS

UNESCO made the eleven miles of canal from Chirk Bank to splendid Horseshoe Falls a World Heritage Site in 2009 for its engineering features and historical operation. Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is a must-visit civil engineering destination and is one of the more astonishing achievements of the Industrial Revolution. At 38 metres over the Dee Valley, it’s also the highest navigable aqueduct in the world and the oldest in Britain. Designed and built by Thomas Telford and Williams Jessop, it’s still in use over 200 years after construction began. Visitors will surely be struck by a seemingly impossible canal spectacle. Eighteen arched stone pillars support deep cast-iron troughs filled with water, forming a river in the sky that can be accessed by foot or by boat. Dream Escape will

arrange boat trips or canal boats for you to travel along the canal and across Pontcysyllte Aqueduct in style with your own personal guide.

OFFA'S DYKE PATH

The most dramatic section of the 177-mile Offa's Dyke Path passes through the Vale of Llangollen with shorter sections also available for keen hikers visiting the area. Local legends suggest that it was built by a medieval king as a show of strength to intimidate his adversaries. Alongside its mythical qualities, the path takes in some of Wales’ most impressive landscapes and historic castles as it loosely follows the Welsh and English boundary. Day hikers can attempt the 13-mile-long Llangollen to Llandegla section to see highlights of the Llangollen Canal, Castell Dinas Brân and UNESCO landscapes.

PLAS NEWYDD

At the southern edge of Llangollen is the medieval chocolatebox house of Plas Newydd, where the iconic ‘Ladies of Llangollen’ lived. Sarah Ponsonby and Lady Eleanor Butler escaped from their aristocratic families in Ireland in 1780 → dreamescapemagazine.com

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rugged mountain peaks, rocky coastlines and some of the best rivers “inWith the UK to raft on, it’s easy to see why North Wales is branding itself as 'the adventure capital of Europe', and is also a Dream Escape favourite”

and began a bohemian lifestyle together away from the rather dull constraints of societal norms, instead choosing to embrace intellectual curiosities. The pair were the embodiment of endearing and mildly eccentric co-dependency, scandalising rural society by sharing a bed, dressing in top hats and men’s clothing and decorating their abode in Gothic chic. Notable visitors to the cosmopolitan residence include Robert Southey, William Wordsworth, and such statesmen as the Duke of Wellington. Today the house and manicured gardens serve as an unlikely tourist attraction and a quaint museum for visitors. Its grandiose and nonconformist quality beautifully sets the tone for the town’s free-spirited and rather accepting nature. 76

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Pictured clockwise from left: Sunset panorama of Castell Dinas Brân near Llangollen from Panorama Walk; National Trust's Chirk Castle; Palé Hall; Plas Newydd

IMAGES COURTESY OF AND © VISIT WALES / GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO

WHERE TO STAY

Pretty Llangollen has a selection of modern and historic hotels, B&Bs and even a 16th-century drovers inn where you can enjoy a restful night. Further afield lie a range of luxury properties that are within easy access of the valley, with two of our favourites being The Chester Grosvenor Hotel and Palé Hall. The Chester Grosvenor Hotel is a 5-star property offering a stylish stay, with individually decorated rooms, spa facilities and a Michelin-starred restaurant. Dating back to 1865, the Chester Grosvenor is an historic and luxuriously appointed hotel with muted yet tasteful tones of ivory, champagne, and gold and a grand column façade. It’s a traditional but not dated property, with hatted doormen, grandiose chandeliers and artworks alongside chic spa treatment rooms. Rooms are styled with a pleasing blend of contemporary and traditional features and are equipped with the amenities you would expect of a hotel of this calibre. During your stay, why not indulge in a Champagne tea in the decadent surroundings of The Arkle Bar and Lounge or spoil yourself with holistic treatments at their relaxing spa. Another opulent stay within reach of Llangollen is distinctive Palé Hall, a historic country home that has been expertly transformed into a luxury destination hotel with fine dining. There are 18 guest bedrooms and suites that have been carefully renovated and individually designed with their own unique style and personal identity. Palé Hall also has an excellent reputation for culinary excellence, with innovative dishes full of seasonal ingredients. Gareth Stevenson is the Head Chef at the helm and has earned Palé Hall a coveted Michelin Green Star award.

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dreamescape.co.uk Michael Davies, Travel Design Manager “I find it is always an interesting journey along the River Dee from Llangollen to Chester. Chirk Castle is such an impressive National Trust property, standing in contrast to idyllic Plas Newydd in Llangollen. A real highlight is Pontcysyllte, the world’s highest navigable canal aqueduct; the long-distance Offa’s Dyke Path crosses the aqueduct and then continues north, paralleling the road that goes past Valle Crucis Abbey ruins and over the Horseshoe Pass. There are some wonderful options that can be included in a visit to this hidden pocket of Wales and I am excited to share them with you all.” ⬥

michael@dreamescape.co.uk

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Somerset's Gourmet and Garden Scene

A visit to the pastoral landscapes of Somerset can both soothe the soul and nourish the palate. This south-west English county is not merely the home of Cheddar cheese or ancient apple orchards, Somerset’s epicurean delights are in abundance. WORDS | KARYN NOBLE

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NLIKE MOST PEOPLE packing their Wellington boots for Somerset’s famed Glastonbury festival, I’m stomping about in mine in apple orchards. In distilleries. On dairy farms. In cheese rooms. In smokeries. Around 300 acres of gardens. While the Glastonbury festival is returning in 2022 after a pandemic hiatus with Diana Ross as one of the headliners, the real showstopper for anyone considering an extended road trip is Somerset’s permanent gourmet line-up and its glorious greenery. Your trip to the West Country can also be nothing short of spectacular, by taking a bespoke tour with Dream Escape. Adventures begin to The Newt’s Great Garden Escape with first-class train travel from London Paddington. Dream Escape's Head of Marketing, Sue Morris and Blue Badge Guide, Sally

Strange are huge fans of this experience, following their time there last summer, and expect the 2022 offering to be equally amazing. The Newt is an extraordinary country estate in Bruton, with exquisitely cultivated gardens and cidery (while they spell it ‘cyder’, do note ‘cider’ and ‘cyder’ are interchangeable) on the 300-acre grounds that encompass a working farm, a forest, a deer park, a gelateria, a restaurant, a tree-walk, shops and a boutique hotel. Your lunch of local produce in the pretty Garden Café will clue you in to the divine spoils of Somerset and you may wonder if there’s something in the air or the soil that makes everything taste so special. The small radius of extraordinarily high-quality producers in Somerset has a lot to do with this south-west county’s geography. Over at Thatchers Cider, which has been a commercial cider business →

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Somerset grows great grass and that makes great milk “and that makes great cheese. It’s not rocket science” since 1904, chief cidermaker Richard Johnson points out the Mendip Hills around us at Myrtle Farm: “They were produced hundreds of millions of years ago when Africa crashed into Europe and pushed Britain up out of the water. At the time we were under water here. The Mendip Hills are limestone, so for millions of years all that limestone was under the sea and when it was pushed up out of the water, all its microscopic sea creatures were pushed into the valleys, so we have really deep, rich, mineral soil, which provides really good nutrients.” Combined with the temperate climate this close to the sea, it makes the west of England an excellent spot for growing apples, which is why

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you’ll find most of Britain’s cider makers here. But Somerset’s not just about the cider. I emerge from Brown & Forrest Smokery in Langport as aromatic as a blazing wood bonfire, but I’ve tasted some of the best smoked meat and fish of my life here. “I’m only interested in the best quality I can find,” says owner Jesse Pattisson, who supplies the likes of chefs Mitch Tonks and Nathan Outlaw with bespoke smoked produce, as well as restaurant chain Hawksmoor and Fortnum & Mason. You won’t find Brown & Forrest produce in supermarkets either, which is reason enough to make the trip to the redchecked tableclothed restaurant here to indulge. “Ninety per cent of my stuff comes from 20


Pictured previous page: The Farm Shop and Cheese Room at The Newt Pictured left to right: Pretty Somerset thatched cottage built into the ruins of a moated medieval castle at Stogursey, Cheddar Gorge; Cheddar Cheese; The Farmyard at The Newt

miles of here,” says Jesse, as we survey the rain-spattered, glowing-green landscape. “Somerset grows great grass and that makes great milk and that makes great cheese. It’s not rocket science.” “Somerset is fantastic for grass,” echoes Tim Mead, CEO of Yeo Valley Organic Farm, which has been making yoghurt since 1969 but decided to back organic farming 20 years ago and now has 1800 employees. Unlike Brown & Forrest, Yeo Valley's wide range of dairy products is available in supermarkets across Britain, but unlike their dairy competitors, they have a cafe in Somerset’s Blagdon, as well as one in London’s Bayswater that serve breakfasts and brunches. It’s a slick operation. At the quirkily decorated Blagdon outlet, there’s even a dedicated space for their food ambassador (chef Paul Collins) to do regular cooking demonstrations, and they also hold a festival (Valley Fest) at the end of July that attracts 50,000 visitors annually. True dairy aficionados shouldn’t pass up the opportunity to sample Cheddar cheese in the Somerset village of Cheddar and from the world’s only →

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five art galleries, a garden, the brilliant Roth Bar ‘Housing & Grill, a farm shop and farmhouse available for private stays, the multipurpose space is a must-visit’

cheesemaker that matures some of it in the caves of Cheddar Gorge itself. “It’s traditional Cheddar cheese made by hand,” says Katherine Spencer who, along with partner John, took over the small business when it was in decline in 2003 and turned it into the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company. “We only make between six and nine cheeses every day. It’s small batch, it’s very much an artisan process.” Godminster should also be on your list for Cheddar expeditions, having won numerous international awards for its organic Cheddars, available from its cheese shop in the heart of Bruton. 82

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In fact, you may notice a significant number of visitors in the area, thanks to Bruton’s meteoric rise in the arts scene, with blue-chip gallery Hauser & Wirth opening an outpost here on Durslade Farm in 2014. Housing five art galleries, a garden, the brilliant Roth Bar & Grill, a farm shop and farmhouse available for private stays, the multipurpose space is a must-visit. In spring–summer of 2022, there’s an exhibition of Henry Moore as well as an open-air presentation of his seminal works. To further admire Somerset’s unspoiled landscapes, Dream Escape will arrange a

IMAGES ARE COURTESY OF © NATIONAL TRUST IMAGES / JOHN MILLER / JAMES DOBSON / JASON INGRAM / SHUTTERSTOCK / VISITBRITAIN / STEPHEN SPRAGGON

Pictured clockwise from left: Radić Pavilion, Hauser & Wirth Somerset; Montacute House; Montacute Orangery


special visit to Montacute House, a glorious example of Elizabethan Renaissance architecture and one of the few structures in England still set within a compartmentalised garden. Roses and geraniums will be blossoming in summer, and the North Garden, in particular, is a rare surviving example of an Elizabethan garden, with the team recreating a parterre as a reminder of the Tudor vision for the space. WHERE TO STAY The Talbot Inn is a 15th-century coach house in Mells with impressive gourmet credentials. The sun-filled courtyard and pink-poppied gardens are sublime summer spots for sampling local seasonal fare, and The Sitting Room (a fully restored 500-year-old beamed tithe barn) is a perfect private escape for small groups to sit around a log-burning stove when the nights turn chilly. Dream Escape will arrange for you to stay in the Very Large Room 01, to unwind in a freestanding rolltop bath that overlooks the mature gardens, for a last lingering look at Somerset’s green glow.

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Sue Morris, Head of Marketing “Somerset is the ultimate hidden gem of the English countryside. Whether it is a day trip from London or an isolated visit, you will be bowled over by the warmth and beauty of this county; rich in gastronomic delights, garden beauty and artistic magnificence. Our design planners have got it covered.” ⬥

sue@dreamescape.co.uk

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Escape the city for a day on a First Class adventure to the heart of Somerset Fridays and Saturdays from 6 May – 24 September

Tickets Include

First Class return journey from London Paddington to The Newt in Somerset The Newt breakfast, lunch, cyder tasting, afternoon tea Guided tours, talks and tastings The Newt 12-month membership

Book Your Escape

thenewtinsomerset.com/great-garden-escape escape@thenewtinsomerset.com

 @thenewtinsomerset


Great Garden Escape


Ten of the best

Wild Art of Scotland Seeing Scotland through the eyes of artists inspires us to appreciate its beauty in new ways. The following fabulous artistic experiences help our guests to forge a closer connection with landscape and culture and to create meaningful memories

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WORDS | JENNY MCBAIN

OPEN-AIR GALLERY

Jupiter Artland is an extraordinary sculpture park set in breathtaking scenery and within easy reach of Edinburgh. Here our guide will take you on a country walk like no other. You will see the giant steel structures, Firmament, by Anthony Gormley. In the artist’s own words his works seek “to materialise the sensation of that inner space of the body… an

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attempt to realize embodiment, without really worrying too much about mimesis, about representation in a traditional way.” You will also be introduced to pieces such as Anish Kapoor’s Suck, Andy Goldworthy’s stone house Bonnington, and Shane Waltener’s extraordinary Over Here. The latter is a piece made from knitted fishing line and suspended between two trees, which resembles a spider’s web. →



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CREATIVE CASTAWAYS

Eilean Shona, an island off the coast of Argyll, is owned by Vanessa Branson (sister to Richard), who is an art lover and entrepreneur. At its heart is a striking former hunting lodge, Eilean Shona House, along with several other properties that have all been renovated and which house an extensive collection of artworks by famous artists such as Grayson Perry and Dame Paula Rego. The richly coloured abstract mural in the dining room was painted by

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the Glaswegian artist Fred Pollock in 1995. There are ample opportunities to try your hand at painting or to pick up a pen and write under expert guidance. In fact, this beautiful island with its secluded sandy beaches and towering rocky crags is a source of deep inspiration for those who wish to slow down and contemplate in order to create. That is what author J M Barrie did when he visited back in 1920 and it is believed that this island is the inspiration behind the fictional island of Neverland in Peter Pan.


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PLACE OF MYTH AND MAGIC

Cawdor Castle is situated within easy reach of the Highland capital Inverness and it allows visitors to peruse beautiful art, inside and out and, of course, to immerse themselves in historical tales. Forever associated with Shakespeare’s Scottish play, Macbeth, the castle was not actually built until the late 14th century, long after King Duncan was murdered by Macbeth. The castle currently belongs to the Dowager Countess Cawdor who inherited it from her husband, the 6th Earl of Cawdor in 1993. She has done much to enhance it aesthetically. Within Cawdor’s three distinct gardens, there are some fabulous sculptures to gaze at. These include one of Adam and Eve leaving paradise by worldrenowned sculptor, George Jeanlcos. In the flower garden you can watch birds and red squirrels enjoying the Orchid Tree Feeder created by Danish-born artist Illona Maurice, and if you wander into the slate garden you will come across Cawdor Sphere by Scottish artist James Parker.

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LIFE IN A LANDSCAPE

Set in the Pentland Hills, near Edinburgh, Little Sparta is a distinct series of plantings and stunning art installations laid out over a seven-acre site. It reflects all the elements that constituted the creative output of Ian Hamilton Finlay (1925-2006) and was created in collaboration with his wife, Sue Finlay. His concrete poetry is etched in wood, metal and stone and his sculptural pieces reveal a broad range of interests. There are reflections on the sea, on nature and our relationship with it as well as references to Classical Antiquity, to the French Revolution and to World War II. The privilege of gaining private access to this special garden, and insight into how it evolved, is extended to our guests. →

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FINDING YOUR INNER ARTIST

Nicky Sanderson is a fully accredited tourist guide who has combined her passion for providing excellent guest experiences with her skill as a trained artist. A graduate of Gray’s School of Art, Aberdeen and The Slade School of Fine Art, London, she conducts workshops en plein-air painting using watercolours, ink and mixed media. She can enhance your appreciation of colour and guide you through the experience of making landscape drawings. Her own work is focused on creating multimedia pieces based on human interaction with the land. She also depicts the action of water on beaches and has a fascination with the geological and human stories of islands and estuaries. An admirer of the work of Edgar Degas, Nicky subscribes to his view that “Art is not what you see, but what you must make others see.”

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BEHIND THE SCENES

Dr Anna Galastro is an architectural and art historian who can take you behind the scenes in art galleries in Glasgow and Edinburgh. You will gain insight into the buildings themselves and you will also learn how to interpret the meaning behind various creative works of art and the place they occupy in Scotland’s cultural heritage. As an experienced university lecturer who also gives public talks in galleries and museums, Dr Galastro is an expert in passing on her knowledge in an engaging and informative manner. In her company you will deftly navigate the artistic landscape across temporal and geographical distance.

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IF YOU GO DOWN TO THE WOODS TODAY

The Loch Ard Sculpture Trail is sited within The Loch Lomond National Park, a short drive from Glasgow. Embark on a walk of about four and a half miles in length and you will come across chainsaw sculptures and willow weavings by local artist Rob Mullholland.

The sculptures represent a range of animals and birds that make up part of the natural food chain in the forest. This turns into a truly immersive experience when you catch scent of wild plants and discover sound posts featuring the sounds of local animals, such as the toad, deer, stag, great spotted woodpecker, jay and buzzard. →

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HEALING BEAUTY

At Hospitalfield near Arbroath, our private guides can help you travel back in time to the 13th century when an order of Benedictine monks established a hospital here. The hospital became a monastery and was a waypoint for pilgrims but many of the medicinal plants to be found in the grounds here today are the same as those that were grown here for healing purposes 800 years ago. In 1843 the main building was remodelled into an Arts and Crafts mansion as a private residence for the Allan Frasers. Inside there is an extensive art collection, which includes contemporary work alongside pieces that date back to the 19th century. You can look at a letter that was written by famous Victorian novelist Charles Dickens and soak up the scholarly atmosphere in the wellstocked library. There is a steady presence of artists-in-residence producing new artwork, and also a beautiful fernery to explore.

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IMAGES IN THIS FEATURE ARE COURTESY OF AND © VISITSCOTLAND / KENNY LAM / / PAUL TOMKINS / VISITBRITAIN BRITAIN ON VIEW / ALISTAIR EDWARDS / IAN HAMILTON FINLAY, LITTLE SPARTA / RUTH CLARK AND HOSPITALFIELD

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MIND-EXPANDING EXPERIENCE

Nestled in the Nithsdale Hills of Dumfries and Galloway is a singular example of the power of artistic alchemy. What used to be the site of an open-cast mining operation has been transformed into a key destination for those interested in land art and cosmology. World-renowned landscape artist, Charles Jencks (1939-2019) worked on behalf of landowner, the Duke of Buccleuch, to bring together aspects of science and astronomy. Using around 2,000 boulders and a network of paths, he mapped out representations of cosmic explosions, spirals of the Milky Way and other cosmic phenomena. This fifty-acre plot also contains the Sun Amphitheatre, which seats up to 5,000 people and is the perfect venue for open-air events with a dramatic dimension. All this can be experienced under the everchanging, moody skies particular to Scotland and in the company of one of our expert guides.

THE ART OF NATURE

The Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh is home to a world- famous living collection of plants, which has been established over the course of the last 350 years. Alicia Salazar is a multilingual guide who is also a botanical artist and illustrator. She loves taking guests round the garden and is happy to help them become aware of the tools and skills required to depict flowers accurately. Mainly, her mission is to encourage the art of really looking. She says, “When I look at flowers and I paint, I feel the wonders of nature. I feel an intimate joy of the creation.” Find out more

Rosie Peattie, Head of Guiding “Develop your skills as an artist with Dream Escape – whatever your medium – en plein air, immersed in the breathtaking scenery of Scotland accompanied by a Scottish artist. Whether on the rugged coastline, the shores of a loch or on a mountainside, the lights and colours are exceptional and ever changing and will bring a new dimension to your work.” ⬥

rosie@dreamescape.co.uk

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Ballynatray Estate

Spring Step With a

in our

Spring on the beautiful Ballynatray Estate is a magical time. Dream Escape takes a seasonal walk through this incredible setting...

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WORDS | EMMA JOHNSON

HE WARM SPRING breeze ripples through the long grass, and in the distance the distinctive primrose yellow of Ballynatray House appears amid the gently sweeping hills. Located in West Waterford, which is known locally as the sunniest place in Ireland, with up to 1,700 hours of sunshine per year, the specific location of Ballynatray on the bend of the Blackwater River, in the Blackwater Valley provides a unique, almost Mediterranean microclimate. And with over 850 acres of parkland, this beautiful country estate is the perfect wilderness retreat from the pace of modern life. Ballynatray House itself is a magnificent 18th-century Georgian mansion, surrounded by a rich and diverse landscape that is home to an impressive array of Irish wildlife and migratory visitors. Guests at Ballynatray, who can stay in any of the estate’s beautiful lodges, are welcome to take a picnic of delicious local produce with them and explore the fields, streams and woods around the main house. →

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A WORLD OF NATURE

Ballynatray has a varied mix of habitat, ranging from mature oak woodland to open fields and grassland, as well as riverbanks and marshes. In the spring and early summer, grey seals can be seen on the Glendine tributary, feeding and playing, while close by, families of otters dart and splash in the cooling waters. The estate also is proud to be home to abundant numbers of songbirds – the sound of their morning calls is a wonderful aspect of a stay on the estate. It is also one of the largest nesting grounds in Europe for egret, and home to some of Ireland’s rarer birds, including falcons, buzzards

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and sea eagles, who are only found in small numbers in parts of Norway and Scotland, in addition to the Ballynatray Estate. In the evenings, settle on your terrace or private garden and listen out for the rare sound of barn owls, and long eared-owl, calling from their nests in the banks and hedgerows. Every day during the spring and summer, in the early mornings and late evenings, the estate’s large natural deer population offers up the sight of newborn fawns, tottering in the grass on unsteady legs, while the very rare red squirrel is actually a common sight at Ballynatray; all over the estate where it thrives in the carefully conserved woodlands.


SECRET GARDENS

Aside from plentiful wildlife, the estate’s two kitchen gardens are a wonderful example of creative planting and inspiring landscape architecture. Hedges and small paths weave around an abundance of flower, vegetable and herb beds, while mature fruit trees flank striking Georgian greenhouses, home to tomatoes and exotic fruits. Close by, the estate’s beautiful renovated and refurbished garden house can be found. With views of the kitchen gardens and stable yard, this beautifully appointed cottage has access to its own private walled fragrant garden, as well as an open fire and sense of real tranquillity. Nearby, next to the stable yard, is the two-bedroomed Coach House and the four-bedroomed Garden Flat, both of which accommodate larger groups in the heart of the garden complex, complete with stone floors and open fires.

UNDISCOVERED JOYS

Further afield, around the estate there is a wealth of beauty to discover. The Blackwater Valley Opera Festival takes place at the end of May in the grounds of Lismore Castle, and showcases a creative and imaginative programme of opera and classical music that enriches the cultural life of the region. Lismore Castle itself is well worth a visit. Dating back to 1170, it was once owned by Sir Walter Raleigh, and through the years has also hosted the likes of Cecil Beaton, Lucian Freud, Fred Astaire and JFK. Still part of a private home, the gardens are open to visitors and have spectacular views of the castle and surrounding countryside. The yew avenue, upper walled garden and several pieces of contemporary sculpture, by the likes of Antony Gormley and Eilis O’Connell, are particular highlights. From here, you can walk into Lismore village, voted one of the ten most picturesque villages in Ireland, and also the gateway to hiking and outdoor adventure in the Knockmealdown Mountains. With stunning views down the valley to the Celtic Sea and set amid natural forests of rhododendrons, which are in full bloom from mid-May until early June, the location provides a great opportunity to either walk off a delicious lunch or build up a healthy appetite for dinner.

Before you set off for a hike, stop in at Vinilo Bakery, a microbakery specialising in sourdough bread and pastries that bakes its naturally leavened bread on-site in its Lismore shop. And make sure to pop into Lismore Food Company too – a luxury delicatessen, its hampers are renowned throughout Ireland. Stop for lunch at The Bakers Table of Lismore, a unique dining experience, or stock up on local produce to take back to your cosy cottage on the Ballynatray Estate and cook up a beautiful Irish supper, surrounded by the tranquil sights and sounds of this wonderful landscape. Find out more

dreamescape.co.uk Emer Mortell, Head of Sales “Located in my home County of Cork, Ballynatray is the perfect destination for a special celebration, such as a milestone birthday party or anniversary party with friends and family. For those who relish country pursuits, stunning gardens and luxurious surrounds in wonderful comfort with delicious wholesome food, hospitable Irish service and a peaceful atmosphere, Ballynatray is the perfect country house to stay in and a firm Dream Escape favourite.” ⬥

emer@dreamescape.co.uk

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The last word from

ROSEMARY AND SAGE —

A quarterly round up of what’s trending: Dream Escape’s Head of Guiding, Rosie Peattie and resident fount of knowledge, Sally Strange, both Blue Badge Guides, have been out and about, and here are some of their highlights...

EXPLORING THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS IN A 4X4 — Spring is one of our favourite seasons: where new beginnings and lots of exciting adventures await us all. We have already been out and about and embracing the great outdoors, kicking off with a team trip to Cameron House, a five-star resort on

Rosie

Loch Lomond. It only recently re-opened, after being meticulously restored over the past three years. After relaxing in the luxurious surrounds, it seemed only right to make the most of the 400 acres of countryside right on our doorstep. We discovered the breathtaking scenery and wildlife of Scotland from a Land Rover Discovery. Driving one of these vehicles first-hand – tackling hill climbs, steep descents, mud and water – was so exhilarating! It is certainly the best way to enjoy nature in a different terrain, from forest to moorland with views of lochs and mountains. It’s one of the best experiences in the country while getting away from the hustle and bustle of daily life. Did you know? Loch Lomond is the largest inland stretch of water in Great Britain. It’s about 36 kilometres long with a maximum depth of 153 metres. ⬥ Rosie Peattie, Head of Guiding and Blue Badge Guide rosie@dreamescape.co.uk

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Like the sound of these experiences? Get in touch with Rosie or Sally for expert advice on your next adventure. You can also check out the Wild Art of Scotland feature on page 86. ⬥

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Sally ENJOYING LONDON ON A RAINY DAY – OR ANY DAY! — The Victoria & Albert Museum (V&A) have come up with two more blockbuster exhibitions to add to their recent backlist of sell-out shows and both with an appropriately ‘spring’-like feel. What could sum up spring and Easter more than the thought of eggs? And what more romantic offering could one hope for than an exquisitely gem-adorned egg with a miniature treasure to be discovered inside? ‘Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution’ brings the largest selection and collection of Fabergé eggs ever seen outside of Russia to the V&A this spring. Equally relevant for this time of year, is the exquisite exhibition on Beatrix Potter, not just devoted to her ‘little books’ but to Beatrix Potter the naturalist, who dedicated her later life to saving great swathes of the Cumbrian landscape and her beloved Herdwick sheep. Both exhibitions are curated and presented in the creative imaginative way that we have come to associate with the V&A. So, should a few April showers entice one indoors, I can recommend a hop, skip and a jump into either of these exhibitions. Did you know? Queen Victoria wanted to name the V&A ‘The Albert Museum’ (when it first opened it was known as The Museum of Manufacturers). ⬥ Sally Strange, Blue Badge Guide sally@dreamescape.co.uk



P E R F EC T LY B R I T I S H

CL A S SIC CUVEE A N E L EG A N T C O M B I N AT I O N O F I N T E N S I T Y, D E L I C AC Y A N D L E N G T H


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