THE VISION PAPER FACE TO FACE WITH COPENHAGEN'S
NEW BLOOD AL SO FE ATU R I N G FA S H IO N FO RTU N E TELLER H I L ARY ALE X AN D ER & the O N E-TO -WATC H ELI N N YS TRÖ M P LU S I L S E JACO B S E N ' S W I N N I N G FO R M U L A , S T Y L I S H S P OT S I N CO P E N H AG E N & S U P E R S T Y L I S T S A R A M A I N O
CO P E N H AG E N FA S H I O N W E E K . AW 2 0 1 2
- the introduction -
Welcome to The Vision Paper words F R E D E R I K B J E R R E G A A R D
Who are the people working in fashion that inspire us to create this magazine and our two fashion fairs? Well, we’re talking about talented designers, brave buyers and dynamic fashion-forward business people. Not to mention amazing fashion writers, hot models and everyone making it happen in this industry. Without a doubt they are the reason we work so hard to make Cph Vision and Terminal-2 an ever-evolving platform for Nordic and international fashion. This issue is packed with people in fashion. We tap into the fierce passions of one of Europe’s most influential stylists in an interview with Vogue Italia’s Sara Maino. We meet fashion journalist extraordinaire Hilary Alexander, one of London’s most respected fashion authorities, and introduce you to Copenhagen’s talented young fashion crowd. This paper champions the optimism, sincerity and the creativity that gets things done – and this is the spirit defining Scandinavian fashion today.
THE COVER
Editor-in-chief frederik Bjerregaard / frederikbjerregaard.com
art direction / design Mark brunswicker / brunswicker.dk contributors rasmus folehave hansen, Cath clarke sacha maric, Frederik lindstrøm / Blink, Bárður Eklund, Gry kjærgaard for mac Print berlingske avistryk
Published by Copenhagen Fashion Fairs Lysagervej 10 2920 Charlottenlund Denmark +45 3964 8586 info@cphvision.dk cphvision.dk
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i m ag e S ach a m a r i c Model SIGRID COLD / 2pm M a k e - u p gr y k j æ rg a a rd f or m ac
- the content -
this issue 02 The Introduction Welcome to Cph Vision and Terminal-2. 06 The Briefing An interview with Styleins founder and designer Elin Nyström; profiles of five designers-to-watch this season; notes on the Danish fashion scene; a one-to-one with Vogue Italia’s Sara Maino; discover Ilse Jacobsen’s winning formula; get behind the scenes with Cph Vision’s Natasha Skou; plus news from Cph Vision and Terminal-2. 18 The Portfolio Six young creatives causing a stir on the Copenhagen fashion scene. 24 Address book Unbeatable shopping, 24-hour party people and some of Europe’s most talked-about cuisine – Copenhagen has it all. A not-to-be-missed city guide. 26 The last word An exclusive interview with the journalist Hilary Alexander, one of London’s most respected fashion authorities and a Designers’ Nest judge this season.
CONTRIBUTORS
Rasmus Folehave Hansen
writer
As a journalist and editor with over a decade of experience, Rasmus has written for too many international lifestyle magazines to mention here. He is the author of the book Will I Go To Hell For This on the history of Copenhagen S-train graffiti – as well as an avid photographer, so you may find yourself captured by his candid camera during one of the Fashion Week parties. Among Rasmus’ several contributions to this issue is an interview with Senior Fashion Editor of Vogue Italia, Sara Maino. www.itsallgood.dk
Sacha Maric
photographer
London born Sacha Maric’s inspired and unconventional portraits have appeared in publications like Art Review, Dazed & Confused, Kilimanjaro, Nylon, WAD and Wallpaper. His more personal work has been exhibited at The National Portrait Gallery in London, The Lowry in Manchester and Still Light in Barcelona. For this issue of The Vision Paper Sasha has photographed seven up-and-coming fashion talents. www.sachamaric.com
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New! SkinnyBitch see page 27
- T he B riefing -
Elin goes all in words ras m us fole h ave h ansen
According to Elin Nyström, Scandinavians often have a tendency to downplay their talents. When she arrived in New York in 1999 Nyström soon shrugged off her Swedish shyness. She settled in the Big Apple, and within two years had bluffed her way into a career as a stylist and set up her fashion label, Stylein, which soon she had burst onto the international scene. Ten years later, Nyström is back in Stockholm, Sweden and ready to focus on the home market.
www.STYLEIN.com
Wake up
There is a whole lot of Scandinavian design talent going on at new agency The Awakening. Established fashion brands like Odeur join forces with new labels such as Blake, as well as Doubleyou Perfume, multi-hyphenate creatives Juelsbo x Co and many more besides. Expect great things. www.theawakening.eu
Q&A
How did you start Stylein? “I was 20 years old when I went to New York, and I was only supposed to stay for three months. But I felt very creative there, so I took some courses at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Everything happened so quickly, and after two semesters I dropped out to start my own brand. I did it quite naïvely – I didn’t plan for it to be a big company with worldwide sales. It was just for fun.” How did you go from gymnastics to fashion design? “Before doing gymnastics, I was a child model, so I have been attracted to the industry for a long time. My first idea was to work in styling, so I pretty much pretended I was a stylist… and suddenly I was working with people like Patrick Demarchelier. At home I experimented with draping fabrics and making clothes. Then I figured that I might as well try putting on a show and inviting some people. That was in 2001. Sometimes things happen more fluently when you don’t have a plan.” That’s quite a courageous attitude. “It’s good to have that kind of energy when you’re young. Now, ten years later, I am more aware of the consequences. I have five employees and a business partner, so there’s more responsibility.” Are you still as hands-on now in the process? “I have girls working for me who are better at pattern-making and the actual construction of the pieces, even if I am the chief designer. On the other hand, we’re still a small company, so I’m pretty much hands on with everything. Of course I would like the company to grow, so I have to live with the fact that we can’t do it all under one roof.” Describe the woman you design for. “She’s around 25 to 30 and fully aware of quality. She’d rather wear something a bit exclusive as opposed to a mass produced piece. We have a clean and simple aesthetic, but if she wants to add heels and lipstick, she can wear it out to a party as well. People give life to our designs, not the other way around. That’s very important to stress.”
Blogvision
Don’t forget to visit the Vision blog for news and more.
Do you think your approach to the fashion business would have been different if you had stayed in Sweden? “In Sweden, we tend to not believe in ourselves and to always see the limitations. You could say that gymnastics prepared me for New York: I knew that there was no easy way, and that you have to practise to get a result. If I had stayed in Sweden, I might have been more focused on the difficulties of getting started.”
www.cphvision.dk
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- T he B riefing -
FIVE to watch words ras m us fole h ave h ansen
Ultra-cool German design, Northern knitwear, flamboyant Italians and Danish start-ups, here are the designers to keep an eye out for this season.
UNRAVEL 19022010
Flamboyant, colourful, and beautifully draped rich fabrics – Unravel is quintessentially Italian. Margherita Brazzale and Giuseppe Fanelli have joined forces to create showstopping pieces guaranteed to turn heads at parties. www.unravel19022010.com
Ucon
Keeping your laptop safe is a top priority. Ucon and carpenter Rainer Spehl have joined forces to help you do just that. Their beautifully crafted case in leather-bound wood is the ideal travel companion for your precious hardware. Additionally, the Germany-based label is firmly on track for the new season with its sporty collection of street-inspired t-shirts, hoodies and jackets for both sexes. www.ucon-acrobatics.com
Hunkøn
Founded by Anne Skovgaard Schøler, Hunkøn is located in Hangzhou, China. An avid student of fabrics, Anne has crafted a collection of comfortable, yet sexy jumpsuits, dresses and knitwear. www.hunkon.com
Gróa
steinum
Hailing from Denmark, designer Gro Abrahamsson has spent the past few years developing her edgy but always super-feminine signature style, crafted in the finest fabrics. Contrasts lie at the heart of her philosophy: each collection is made up of distinctly individual pieces with their own unique expression.
The Faroe Islands are home to more sheep than people and a strong knitting community. Johanna av Steinum was raised in this tradition, sitting on the laps of her seven knitting aunties. With a tongue-in-cheek wit her designs are steeped in the region’s craftsmanship.
www.groa.dk
www.steinum.net
Your free pass
Admission to Cph Vision is free if you sign up before 31 January. During registration you will receive a PDF file with a QR-code, which will function as your pass at the entrance. www.cphvision.dk
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ART DIRECTION & GRAPHIC DESIGN
WWW.BRUNSWICKER.DK
- T he briefing -
talent spotted words ras m us fole h ave h ansen
Keeping her education close to home, Swedish designer Linda Larsson went through two years of textile studies and a B.A. in fashion before interning with Whyred, Stylein and Preen. In 2011, all of her hard work paid off when she won the Designer’s Nest competition. Not content to rest on the laurels of success, Larsson has continued to hone her quirky signature expression. Meet her in the foyer at CPH Vision in Øksnehallen.
Tell us what it meant for you personally and professionally to win the competition? It was a confirmation, and it made me realise that my designs appeal to others. Moreover, the winning of a competition like Designer’s Nest results in positive attention and interesting offers. The prize is also a proof that all the years of studying fashion has given results, and it has encouraged me to continue developing my design ideas. What can we expect to see in your collection at THE cph Vision fair this year? My winning collection was named ”I married myself, I’m very happy together” and showed white asymmetric pieces. The theme, which was a form of self-portrait, is now taken one step further with my new collection ”Honeymoon”. The two married sides are now on a honeymoon. The silhouettes are more harmonious, though the white palette has been replaced by a chaotic set of prints showing exotic palm trees and deep Scandinavian forests in combination with abstract paintings.
dansk for ten years Dansk has become synonymous with cutting-edge styling, beautiful photography and strikingly original layout. Always ambitious, ever stylish, Dansk celebrates its tenth anniversary with the February 2012 issue. Bravo!
Has your schedule been busier since winning Designer’s Nest? I am working full-time designing at a Swedish company, and at night-time I have continued to work in my studio, so I’d say it has been quite a busy autumn. Of course in a fun way! The attention from the media and people in the business such as stylists and photographers has also triggered my will to develop my new collection. I am still in love with myself, therefore I am on a honeymoon. But what comes after that? A car-dog-baby-and-a-house theme, or a divorce? Or is it perhaps a never-ending solo honeymoon?
www.danskmagazine.com
Chanel goes North
With Danish model Freja Beha gracing the cover, a new book from Chanel, Northern Women in Chanel, is a powerful testament to the enduring tres chic vision of the label as well as the delicate beauty of Nordic models. To celebrate its launch, the Designmuseum Danmark in Copenhagen is hosting an exhibition of 60 stunning large format prints shot by photographer Peter Farago and styled by Ingela Klemetz. From 1st February - 8th April. www.designmuseum.dk
The fair partnership For some time the Nordic fashion industry has been struggling to manifest itself as a continuous growing industry. The business landscape has been populated by many different voices and exhibitors have been faced with an unclear set of rules. CPH Kids, CPH Vision & Terminal-2 have acknowledged this and have decided to work in partnership in order to make the most of the three platforms, open up the dialogue and balance business and creativity. "Jointly we are able to think even bigger and act more offensively in terms of ambition for our city as a fashion capital. We share the same perspectives and as a joint force we will produce results. In my time as both organiser and owner of venues, I have never before felt such a strong connection to and trust of another 'fair player'. This partnership will act as a valuable development for both companies in addition to the future merging of CPH Vision & Terminal-2," says founder and owner of CPH Vision & Terminal-2, Jan Busch Carlsen. www.thefairpartnership.com
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- T he B riefing -
Scouting Talents words R as m us F ole h ave Hansen
Born in Italy’s fashion capital, Milan, talent scout and Vogue Italia’s senior fashion editor Sara Maino is blessed with a sharp eye for spotting design talent. As a judge on the Designers’ Nest panel, she has a strong influence when votes are cast for a winner among Scandinavia’s most promising fashion design students. Here she shares her words wisdom with would-be designers.
What are you looking for when you’re scouting for new design talent? “No one thing in particular. A talented designer can attract my attention in different ways: with their creativity, or the quality or the presentation of their work. A good presentation is fundamental, especially when I look at students' portfolios.” How does Scandinavia compare to other parts of the world talent-wise? “Scandinavian designers stand out with their high standard image quality, as well as the cleanness of the silhouette. Every time I see a Scandinavian collection, I am always impressed by how the work is presented: beautiful photos and perfect styling, which makes for a very strong and determined result.” What is more important in a young designer: an instinctive sense of style or an eye for current trends? Or do you need both? “I am not a firm believer in current trends. A talented designer needs to have a precise idea of what he/she wants to present. I do think that it is important for designers to get the current trends, but most importantly a collection should be a visualisation of the designer's ideas.” Aside from pure design skill, what does it take to make it in the fashion business these days? “There are so many elements. Nowadays, when the internet is the primary form of communication, there are many different ways to make it in the fashion business. I think that a creative mind can always find a way to expose his or her talent. Trade fairs are important, so that the designer can get feedback from the market; also applications for design contests, which provide a good chance to get in touch with the fashion industry.” You must have seen plenty of fashion trends come and go over the years. What, in your opinion, is the one trend that always stays in style? “Black, which I know is not a colour, but it's synonymous with pure style.” www.vogue.it
Sara Maino’s favourites Sara’s Scandinavian design picks from the SS12 runway catalogue: Gaia, Astrid Andersen, Anne Vest, Anne Sofie Madsen and Henrik Vibskov, in no particular order of preference.
Get the news
Plan your Copenhagen visit ahead with the smartphone App "CFF" that locates all the events and fair stalls on your itinerary. The entire brand catalogue for CPH Vision & Terminal-2 is accessible on the App, which will keep you updated on the latest news from the fairs. Go to www.cphvision.dk and follow the App link or just download the "CFF" app on your smartphone.
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STAND NO.: 151F & 175F
- the insider -
Let’s Dance!
Join us on Friday 3 February for the CPH Vision Party, sponsored by PIPER Champagne, Heineken and Egekilde from 11pm. Pick up your invitation at the Press Desk at the trade fairs. See you there! www.cphvision.dk
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- the insider -
www.cphvision.dk
Behind the Scenes
NATASHA SKOU words frederik bjerregaard images sac h a m ari c
Natasha Skou, 32, is the woman responsible for marketing and communication at Cph Vision and Terminal-2, including the internationally recognised design contest Designers’ Nest. Here she talks through her packed schedule during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
How did you get started in the fashion industry? “My mother worked at Georg Jensen, which in my eyes is the epitome of Danish design. So I actually grew up with Danish design. I started to work there myself when I was 18. Later I become fashion buyer and after a few years landed a job with the Cph Vision team. Working intensively with talented Scandinavian designers, I couldn’t ask for more.”
2,500 brands represented at the different fashion fairs. Here you will find huge commercial brands as well as up-and-coming independent designers. Moreover, we have an impressive schedule with more than 40 shows on the same days as the fashion fairs – that’s unique. It creates an intense Fashion Week, where buyers and the press are assembled, all focussed on making deals and finding new trends. Plus Copenhagen is a great city for a Fashion Week: its fun and laidback.
How would you describe your work? “There is never a dull moment. Every new day brings fresh challenges – and surprises.”
What makes Scandinavian fashion designers special? “I believe that it’s the casual and timeless approach to design. We also have many talented newly graduated designers, who have very little funding, showing at Fashion Week. That combination of talent and drive makes Scandinavian designers hard to beat.”
What does a normal day look like at Copenhagen Fashion Week? “It starts early. First, I scan the news and show reviews. Then it’s off to the fair where I run through the day’s events with the team. We organise the seating for the press shows and the Designers’ Nest show. If H.R.H. Crown Princess Mary is present there is always a little more pressure on security and press, and so that’s my focus. During the day I also meet up with international journalists and bloggers to make sure they arrive okay at the shows and are connecting with their interviews – things like that. There’s also a lot of updating on social media, uploading show images and press releases to stay on top of during the day. In the evening there are receptions, and then it’s home to give my boyfriend and son a kiss, a few hours sleep and then it starts over again.“ What are your most important work tools? “Without doubt my press database, the web in general and inspiration from the different events. I am a very curious person, so going from one meeting to another, I get plenty of inspiration that I can use in my work.” Why do you think Copenhagen has become one of the region's leading fashion cities? “Copenhagen offers something unique and interesting on several levels. During Fashion Week we have more than
What do journalists, stylists and opinion leaders from abroad think about Scandinavian design?“Many mention the talent we have in the region. That’s also why it is so important to keep focussing on new growth, so we can continue to deliver on new designers and brands. Another thing is that we are often described as being relaxed and playful. Plus, we have a long history for design and the good life in general – including architecture, furniture, contemporary art and gourmet food.” Has their view changed in recent years? “My impression is that press and buyers return season after season to enjoy Scandinavian lifestyle and discover exciting new talent. They feel that a visit to Copenhagen Fashion Week is rewarding and inspiring.” What do you think about the increasing competition between Copenhagen and other fashion capitals? “Copenhagen is small, but we have proven that we have what it takes to be compared with huge capitals like Berlin and London – that makes me proud. I think it is the only city to discover the future of Scandinavian fashion.”
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- T he briefing -
ILSE JACOBSEN
THE recipe for success words ras m us fole h ave h ansen
Designing shoes was never part of Ilse Jacobsen’s career plan. After studying political science and economics she opened a restaurant. Then, in 1993, she jumped at the chance to take over a friend’s shoe store and designed her first collection. Today, Jacobsen employs 60 people and has expanded the company into an international brand retailing in 19 countries. But what’s the recipe for her success?
The fashion business is highly competitive, and the world economy has been in better shape. How do you navigate your company in this rough market? “We’re constantly working on product development, for instance redesigning our rubber boots – so our customers always have a reason to come back for something new. Additionally, we have had great success introducing our Rub and Rain collections into new markets. We have entered the US and Japan, and at the same time have built a solid customer base in Scandinavia and Europe.” You recently decided to move most of your production from China to Europe. How does that pay off? Surely it subtracts from your bottom line? “The reason we have decided to pull out of China was that we had too many problems getting things to work smoothly. It became too tiring. Even if it means up to three million DKK less on the bottom line, that’s fine by me. I’ll be sleeping better at night, and I can stand firmly behind the production process. That means a lot to me.”
The new Vision
In August 2012, you will find our two fairs CPH Vision & Terminal-2 merged at the grand, industrial location Lokomotivværkstedet in Copenhagen. The ambition is to create the perfect atmosphere for both established and up-and-coming fashion labels, retailers and other professionals from all over the world. “This expansion and merger of two existing fairs, CPH Vision and Terminal-2 will boost an inventive and prosperous Scandinavian business platform. The new concept meets the wishes of both exhibitors and visitors and will result in a sharper segmentation, more traffic and a relaxed milieu. To put it simple, an ideal Nordic trading platform to attract international buyers and will ensure that Copenhagen remains the preferred fashion destination in Scandinavia,” says Peter Fenger Selchau, CEO of the new fair. www.cphvision.dk
As a designer and businesswoman, do you have any tips you would like to share? “The reason for my success is my passion for my work, perseverance and a strong business sense. If I want to achieve something, I refuse to take no for an answer. In negotiations I am tough and unyielding, but I try to do it with a sense of humour, so that everyone’s good friends afterwards.” How do you get a sense of what works and what doesn't in a collection: do you work by set principles or sudden inspiration? “Naturally, we keep an eye on trends and the tastes of our customers, but it takes more than the ability to spot a trend. I work best with a sudden inspiration – and once I have an idea, I will keep on until it has been realised.” How do you motivate yourself? “I constantly have something I want to do. That usually keeps me going; also the fact that I am surrounded by talented people who create a positive work environment.” How do you motivate your staff? “I am in daily contact with my employees at HQ and I’ve got high expectations of them. At the same time I also reward those who make a strong effort, and I show my appreciation of their work. Of course, we are also motivated by the great success we are currently enjoying and the fact that our products are world famous.” What is the most important quality a designer needs to make it in the fashion business? “A burning passion for your trade – it should be a lifestyle. And you need to trust your gut feeling and stick to your principles.“
Meet the Cph Vision Team
Join us for an evening of networking, exclusive to exhibitors and buyers, on Friday 3 February, hosted by Heineken in collaboration with Converse (which will be supplying the evening's music line up). Not to mention delicious food from Madkastellet. From 7pm at The Boiler, Terminal-2.
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Sensuous scandinavian curves, inspired by the sixties and given a typical, modern DESIGN BY US twist, the SkinnyBitch, a new lounge chair is born.
SkinnyBitch, the latest addition to the family in the furniture & lighting collection of DESIGN BY US. DESIGN BY US is a multidisciplinary design studio, specializing in total design solutions and offers complete interior concepts. A design team of energetic individuals are the force behind the company’s constant development. Inspiration is derived from modern trends and personal values, used in their design schemes, along with a good dose of humour and curiosity, this has become a trademark for DESIGN BY US’ unique designs.
- T he portfolio -
NEW BLOOD words ras m us fole h ave h ansen images sac h a m ari c
We couldn’t have done it without them; as always, Vision Paper is a beautiful collaboration between talented people who share a burning passion for style, design, colours, silhouettes and fabrics and all the other good things that make a fabulous Fashion Week come true. Ladies & Gentlemen, meet the contributors.
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- T he portfolio -
Is fashion a job or a passion? It’s a combination, but the past few years it has been more of a job than a passion. What might surprise people about what you do? That I'm extremely good at finding talent. What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? I have worked in many different places the past years, so there haven’t been two fashion weeks with many commonalities. It has been all from organizing shows/events, sales appointments, buying, public relations and more.
26-year old Jens Kold-Christensen is the Marketing Manager for Nagpeople and co-founder of the menswear label Uncommon Creatures. Like everyone else in the business, Jens has had some busy months; first, going to Paris to promote his brands, then back to Copenhagen to organize events for Damir Doma, Rick Owens and MA_Julius during Fashion Week.
THE trendspotters www.style.dk
Born in Boston, Daniel Müller-James, 27, is now a Copenhagen resident, where he works as Brand and Communication Manager at Flying A. With more than two-dozen Fashion Weeks under his belt, he is already an industry veteran.
Is fashion a job or a passion? “A job, but I wouldn’t work doing something I wasn’t passionate about, so I guess it’s both.” What might surprise people about what you do? “That my work day is sometimes all about licking 500 stamps and handwriting addresses on invitations.” What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? “Working up to 16 hours a day, coordinating shows and events, followed by a very late nightcap.”
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- T he portfolio -
THE entrepreneur Life is hectic for stephanie gundelach in the run up to Fashion Week. By the time you read this, the 25-year old self-proclaimed fashion entrepreneur has been knee-deep for weeks in meetings with suppliers as well as planning photo and video coverage of her shows.
Is fashion a job or a passion? “It’s a passion.” What might surprise people about what you do? “The overwhelming workload I have.” What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? “A normal day is filled with shows. We try to arrive early to do backstage coverage and interviews with the designers. In between shows we always keep an eye on street style victims. I also make sure to visit fairs and showrooms to see next season’s collections up close.” www.anywho.com
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- T he portfolio -
THE STylist Born in Copenhagen, 31-year old Simon Rasmussen now lives and works in New York as a stylist and fashion consultant. He will be in Copenhagen for Fashion Week – styling, riding his bicycle and trying his best to one-up the B-list celebrities for the best seats at shows.
Is fashion a job or a passion? “Most of the time it’s a passion, but now and then it’s a job like everything else.” What might surprise people about what you do? ”It surprises Americans that I am a straight guy. To them, male stylists are gay, but I guess it makes me stand out from the crowd.” What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? ”There is no normal day during a fashion week. Maybe working on a show during the day and finding the time to attend a couple of other shows, then eat a shawarma and hang with my friends.” www.simonrasmussen.com
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- T he portfolio -
THE model Dedicated maths student, avid tennis player and supermodel-in-the-making. Did we mention that she is only 16 years old? Sigrid Cold, signed to model agency 2pm, is one of the most exciting girls gracing the catwalk at Fashion Week.
Is fashion a job or a passion? “For me it’s a job, and I like to be very professional about it. Saying that, I enjoy every moment – and it's a wonderful contrast to my maths studies.” What might surprise people about what you do? “How spontaneous the industry is. I always have to be ready to step onto a shoot at very short notice. You might say that I’m involved on a need-to-know basis; it’s rare that I know more than just the location and time of the shoot.” What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? “There is a bit of a celebrity-feel to it, as the entire fashion world turns its attention to Copenhagen for a week.” www.2pm.com
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- T he portfolio -
THE constructeur As a pattern maker for the Danish label Noir, in the run up to Fashion Week Christine Miller is busy perfecting patterns for the label’s collections. It’s a delicate precision task that requires attention to the smallest detail. How does she cope? Coffee – lots of it.
Is fashion a job or a passion? “It is a job that I’m passionate about. Of course, I love fashion, but it’s the aesthetics and the craftsmanship that I really enjoy.” What might surprise people about what you do? “That the biggest part of my job has very little to do with fashion and a lot to do with calculations: Excel spreadsheets and communicating with suppliers in broken English.” What does a normal day look like during Fashion Week? “No matter how hard we try to meet deadlines, something always crops up at the last minute, which makes it my job to wait for the UPS delivery, then jump on my bike and rush to the fashion fair to deliver the garment to our sales representative.” www.noir.com
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- T he guide -
ADDRESS BOOK words frederik bjerregaard
Unbeatable shopping, 24-hour party people and some of Europe’s most talked-about cuisine – Copenhagen has it all. We asked a handful of city dwellers (well, seven to be exact) to share their inside tips for a good time in Denmark’s capital. On our panel of fashionable experts: stylist Sebastian Machado; fashion editor Frederik Andersen; Acne’s wholesale director Martin Gjesing; Rui Diogo, founder of Spon diogo; Bjørn Borg’s sales director Bo Storm; Daniel Müller of Flying A; and DJ and fashion blogger Mads Emil Grove Møller.
SHOPPING & FASHION Wood Wood Store – Sebastian Machado While the Storm store remains a must-see if you’re experiencing Colette withdrawal symptoms, the new Wood Wood flagship a little further down the road is making retail news. As well as carrying its own popular line, it hosts labels such as Comme De Garçons, Opening Ceremony, Bernhard Willhelm as well as fantastic hard-to-come-by winter gear collections like White Mountaineering. Not to be missed. Grønnegade 1. www.woodwood.dk
Cinnober – Martin Gjesing Calling all stationery junkies. If you like office supplies, you’ll love buying them in this independent art bookshop, which stocks a covetable selection of paper products such as calendars and notebooks. Landemærket 9 in the basement. www.cinnobershop.dk
Time's Up Vintage – Mads Emil Møller Arguably Denmark’s best vintage store. Stocking labels such as YSL, Gucci, Versace and Chanel, the owner’s keen eye for men’s and women’s wear has fashion designers flocking here for design inspiration. Krystalgade 4. www.timesupshop.com Acne Archive – Frederik Andersen The Scandinavians’ favourite fashion brand offers you a chance to snap up pieces from its 13-year back catalogue that you missed first time around. Elmegade 21. www.acne.se
ART & EXCURSIONS Galleri Nicolai Wallner – Rui Diogo The best art gallery in northern Europe, with an enviable collection of works by high profile international contemporary artists including David Shrigley and Elmgreen and Dragset. Ny Carlsberg Vej 68. www.nicolaiwallner.com
The Apartment - Martin Gjesing The Apartment is a new universe of design objects, furniture, antiques and art. Innovative modern design meets the unparallelled craft of traditional furniture making, showcased in the heart of Copenhagen, handsomely restored by founders Tina Seidenfaden Busck and Pernille Hornhaver. The concept and pieces are edited with an international point of view, exhibiting world recognised designers such as Michael Anastassiades, McCollin Bryan and Martha Harmitage alongside handpicked antique furniture. Ovengaden Neden Vandet 33, 2nd floor. www.theapartment.dk
The David Collection – Rui Diogo This museum hosts one of the most important collections of Islamic art. And it is a fantastic time capsule, situated in a neoclassical house overlooking The King’s Garden (Kongens Have) at Rosenborg Castle. Kronprinsessegade 30-32. www.davidmus.dk
Vestamager – Daniel Müller Two thousand acres of forest and pastures: Vestamager is like a small piece of Norway right outside of Copenhagen. Take the Metro to Vestamager station and start walking. 24 / 2 8
- T he guide -
FOOD & NIGHTLIFE Central Hotel & Café – Frederik Andersen A tiny capital city needs a small hotel with a big experience. Not that you’d guess it from its name, but with a floor space of only 12 square metres and just one bedroom, The Central might well be the world’s smallest hotel. Downstairs is a café. Tullinsgade 1.
Andy's Bar – Martin Gjesing This eclectic late-night hangout in the city centre hosts a raucous mix of drunk people out on the town, intellectual bar banter and folks just having fun. All surrounded by artwork by the experimental artist Albert Mertz. Gothersgade 33 B
Mash – Bo Storm Number one on my (long) list of good restaurants. The main reason is that Mash has got the best beer in town. Accompany a glass with a steak, fries and Béarnaise sauce. If you want to go all out, order scallops, lobster and turbot for the ladies. This is a place where quality, price and service are perfectly balanced. Bredgade 20 www.mashsteak.dk
Oysters & Grill – Frederik Andersen While foodies in other countries still swoon over molecular gastronomy, forward-thinking Danes are getting tired of experimental micro dishes. Oysters and steaks… ‘nuff said. Sjællandsgade 1B. www.cofoco.dk
The Union – Sebastian Machado If you're looking for a secluded watering hole, The Union is the place to go. The staff don’t need any lessons in cocktail-making, and unlike some of the bigger clubs, it doesn’t get overrun by hordes of teens or men in the midst of a full-blown mid-life crisis. Getting in isn’t always easy, though. Rules of engagement: be polite but take no B.S. Press the golden button by the black door. Store Strandstræde 16. www.theunionbar.dk
Kaffe – Mads Emil Møller Cosy atmosphere, friendly service and first class coffee. The art collective Bureau Detours has decorated its café with furniture and installations made entirely from recycled wood. Istedgade 90
Café Intime – Daniel Müller It opened in the roaring 1920s and Café Intime retains its louche, bohemian feel. Hidden away from the busy city centre, here you’ll run into people of all ages and sexual orientations. There’s something on the schedule most nights, cabaret or a pianist. The Sunday jazz night is a perfect excuse to enjoy a glass of wine on the day of rest.
Torvehallerne – Bo Storm Perfect for Friday night after-work pizza or tapas. And fantastic for confit de canard sandwiches, wines from Løgismose and steaks from the butcher. It doesn’t get much better than this. Israels Plads. www.torvehallernekbh.dk
www.cafeintime.dk
Restaurant Paustian – Rui Diogo This is Danish cuisine as is should be: long forgotten recipes made with the finest local produce. The restaurant is located at the old harbour in the northern part of the city in a stylish modern furniture store. Kalkbrænderiløbskaj 2. www.restaurantpaustian.dk
Den Økologiske Pølsemand – Martin Gjesing Root vegetable mash, baked sourdough bread, spiced beef sausage – all made from organic ingredients. A welcome alternative to Copenhagen’s famous hotdog stands. Next to Rundetårn. www.døp.dk
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- T he L A S T WO R D -
MEET LONDON'S LEADING FASHION JOURNALIST
hilary alexander W O R D S c at h c larke
It will take originality to impress Designers’ Nest judge Hilary Alexander, The Telegraph’s renowned fashion journalist. One of London’s most respected fashion authorities she is a firm fixture on the front row, reviewing hundreds of shows every season. You can spot her by her style signature, rather fabulous tribal jewellery, but as Alexander tells The Vision Paper, she fell into fashion almost accidentally.
fashion.telegraph.co.uk
When you are watching a young designer’s show what are you looking for? “Excitement and something original. I want to see something I’ve never seen before, a designer who is not copying or paying homage to someone else.” Are there any designers you remember seeing early in their careers and thinking: wow this person is seriously talented? “Erdem definitely, Christopher Kane and Mary Katrantzou.” What mistakes do young designers typically make in their early collections? “Very often they show pieces that look fantastic as a sketch, but fail to translate into 3D. I notice this a lot judging competitions. You’ll see amazing sketches, you think: that’s fabulous. And the finished result simply doesn’t work. Clothes have to be worn. If they don’t look good on the body, on the female form, then the design is a failure.” London produces many designers who go on to big things. What’s its secret? “The fashion education system, particularly colleges like Central Saint Martins, the London College of Fashion, Ravensbourne, and Kingston University. There are so many really good, strong colleges. The students get a very good grounding in fashion history and pattern cutting – all the technical aspects. But they’re also encouraged to experiment and find their own design path.” In addition to being talented what qualities do designers need to make it? “Obviously you've got to have the skills and the talent – and then it’s enthusiasm, passion, determination, perseverance, stamina and the ability to work hard. And you have to love what you do: that’s very, very important. You’ve got to believe in yourself. You can have a student who has fantastic skills, wonderful creative ideas, but simply doesn’t have the self-belief or determination. It’s a very difficult job being a designer: it’s not easy. And quite a lot of very successful people have someone in place who looks after the admin, business and commercial side – that’s incredibly important.” Do you think there is a risk of designers having a big-wow debut show and then being forgotten? “You hope they don’t have a big-wow debut show – it’s too
much too soon. I think it should be relatively slow as they build confidence. What they need to do is develop a strong design personality.” How important are competitions such as Designers’ Nest? “Incredibly important. London is lucky to have Graduate Fashion Week once a year, which brings together the work of several hundred students from colleges right across the UK. Designers’ Nest in Copenhagen is a similar event: it draws young designers together. The press and industry insiders get the chance to assess them, and discover any rising stars among the finalists.” From an international point of view how does the world see Nordic fashion?“I think Day Birger Mikkelsen is probably one of the best-known labels. It’s been available in London for at least 10 years and has got an instantly recognisable signature. I’m looking forward to seeing what’s going on in Nordic fashion – I’ve never been to Fashion Week in Copenhagen. It’s my first visit. And of course in London we’ve seen the TV series The Killing and everyone’s talking about Sarah Lund’s sweater – the Faroe Islands furore. So I’m really intrigued to see more.” Did you grow up fashion obsessed? “Not at all. I grew up in New Zealand and I don’t think I saw a copy of Vogue magazine until I was 19 or 20. I was a news and features journalist before I started concentrating on fashion.” How did you get into fashion? “Totally by chance. I moved to Hong Kong and there was a job going as fashion editor on a newspaper. Because I was a girl, someone said I should apply. I thought writing about fashion couldn’t be that different. It’s the same principles: who, what where, why how. I became gradually obsessed. Hong Kong was an incredible place, so many factories manufacturing for labels all over the world. It was very exciting. That was where I first got involved with young designers – I started a young designers’ show. I came to London in 1982.” How has the fashion industry changed in the last 10 years? “Without a doubt the biggest change has been the internet and the way people shop, research and keep up to date – on websites, blogs, Twitter and YouTube.”
Designers' Nest Exhibition
Feast your eyes on the next generation of Scandinavian talent at the Designers' Nest Award exhibition - competitors were selected from nine Scandinavian design schools. Located in the front hall and lounge area of CPH Vision at Øksnehallen. www.cphvision.dk
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