Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
Brand Paper INSIDE
SOCIAL NETWORK MEEt tHE EntREpREnEuRial BloGGER TrinE KJæR & THE
FEatuRinG Filippa K’S Nina BoGStEdt & ouR StylE FavouRitE Emma Leth
PluS RoSEMundE’S WinninG FoRMula, INCOMING FaShion tREndS & FivE-BR andS-to-Watch thiS SEaSon
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE CONTENT
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
04
The introduction
Welcome to The Vision Paper 06
The briefing
Five designers to watch this season. Notes on the Danish fashion scene. Plus all the information you need to enjoy Vision. 12
The WINNING FORMULA
Rosemunde’s Torben Olsen shares the company’s winning formula. 15
The feature
We know it’s hard to predict the future, but we think we're on to something. These are the five trends in and around the world of fashion and design to watch out for. 18
The Social Network
Introducing seven fashion creatives who you should ‘follow’ and ‘like’ this season. 24
The Talk
A conversation about design and talent with our most recent Designer’s Nest panelist, Filippa K’s Nina Bogstedt. 26
The last word
We have the last word with the talented Mrs. Leth.
CPHVISION.DK
THE BIG BRUNCH
Celebrate the AW13 edition of VISION and have a treat at The Big Brunch – Made in Italy in Egekilde Lounge on Saturday the 2nd of February. Complimentary brunch and drinks will be served from 11 am – 1 pm. First-come, first-served.
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BE A SIP AHEAD
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE INTRODUCTION
WELCOME TO THE VISION PAPER AW13 Words
Natasha Skou
In recent years, we have seen how the fashion industry has changed. Around the world stylish cities have enjoyed a brief moment as the fashion destination du jour – and then declined. In Copenhagen we remain a necessary stop on the international fashion circuit, with buyers arriving from across the continents every season. Fashion Week has evolved into cultural phenomenon, closely followed by the international media and curious Copenhagen residents. Almost 100,000 visitors descend on our two Fashion Weeks every year. At Vision we know that progress, collaboration and an international outlook are key to developing Fashion Week. From season to season we push the envelope by creating new initiatives that benefit Scandinavian fashion and make Copenhagen an even more exciting fashion city. In the beginning our focus was putting Copenhagen on the map – attracting buyers and media from all around the world. Today, the industry knows that Copenhagen is the place to build serious business relations… and have a good time. Now we hope to go one step further. That is the reason we have become the first fashion capital in the world to introduce a green-trade Fashion Week (driven by windmill power) and have introduced a single ticket to all fairs and free transport around Copenhagen. The new partnership involves free access by pre-registration for fashion professionals to the three fairs as well as the new design fair Defining Scandinavia in Øksnehallen, free Metro and a free environmentally friendly shuttle service between the exhibition locations. It is a higher level of service to help visitors get quickly and easily around during Fashion Week. At Vision our mission for the future is to focus ever more on quality, friendly service and giving our visitors the best experience possible. We believe that we are achieving this – and truly hope that all our guests have a great Fashion Week. Enjoy.
CPHVISION.DK
frederik Bjerrega ard frederikbjerrega ard.com Ar t direction ⁄ Layout Mark brunswicker brunswicker .dk Contributors Simon friese, R asmus folehave Hansen, sacha maric, Casper sejersen, olivia frØhlich, Lachlan Bailey, maya barfoed
Editor-in- chief
Cover image Published by
Sacha Maric
Hair & Make -up
Maya barfoed
berlingske avistryk
exhibition professionals Lysager vej 10, 2920 Charlot tenlund, Denmark, +45 396 4 8586, info@cphvision.dk ⁄ cphvision.dk
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IntroducIng a modern mascara InnovatIon delIvered In a new breakthrough formula wIth gIant brush for extreme curl, volume and length. maccosmetIcs.com
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE BRIEFING
NEWS Words
Simon Friese
Have you heard? Experience the dazzling talents of Scandinavian design and living at Defining Scandinavia in Øksnehallen. The new fair aims to be the preferred trading platform of all leading and upcoming brands in the field of Scandinavian interior design. And don’t you worry about getting there – It only takes a few minutes with the VISION shuttle bus. Entrance is free of charge with your VISION ticket.
definingscandinavia.com
Teaming up
Those bloggers just keep on with their invasion. This season Clamor for Glamour blogger Camille Kaasby-Wang joins fashion forces with Minus for a collection of eight jersey basics with a twist. Fashion has to be fun, says the well-established blogger about the collection. Rumor has it that there will be a follow up including leather pieces this autumn.
clamour4glamour.looklab.dk
Let’s dance! Join the Vision Party sponsored by Heineken and Egekilde on Friday the 1st of February from 9:30 pm – 4 am. The party will take place at the palatial residence of Kunsthal Charlottenborg, constructed in the 17th century and nowadays the biggest venue for contemporary art in Copenhagen. See you there!
cphvision.dk
App yourself
Want to locate all the events and fair stalls on your itinerary? Plan your Copenhagen visit and keep updated with news, floor plans and much more on the smartphone App from Vision. Go to cphvision.dk and follow the App link.
cphvision.dk
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Soundvenue.com/opret
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE BRIEFING
NEWS Words
Simon Friese
First aid on a rainy day
When it comes to sport, comfort comes first. Vernon Sports is now launching their Loki line with performance gear such as a breathable, wind- and waterproof jacket with build-in cap, bag and gloves. The wonder only weighs 500 grams and could easily be a friend in an a you-never-know-when-the-rain-starts Scandinavian wardrobe.
vernon.dk
Enjoy the ride
As the only fashion city in the world Copenhagen Fashion Week introduces ONE ticket and free-of-charge transport in Copenhagen. Show your ticket and enjoy free access to the three fairs, free transport by subway and free shuttle-service with Citroën C1 to and from the exhibition locations.
cphvision.dk
Follow us Don’t forget to visit Cphvision.dk and check out the Vision campaign video. For sharing photos, exhibitor news, daily updates,competitions and much more visit VisionCph on Facebook and Instagram @vision_cph
cphvision.dk
Minimum maximizes Eight-year old Aarhus-based menswear brand Minimum is having a hungry phase. Buying the full ownership of well-established Junk de Luxe means that the emerging fashion company will strengthen its position and potential in both Denmark and on the export markets.
minimum.dk
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www.citroen.dk
HURTIG LEVERING
CITROËN C1 1.0i Clim Seduction FINANSIERING
995,-/MD
GOD STIL BEHØVER IKKE KOSTE KASSEN Prisen er til at overse – men det er designet bestemt ikke. Den faceliftede Citroën C1 liver op i bybilledet med ny front, LED-lys, nyt interiør, aircondition, 5 døre og meget mere. Du kører oven i købet 23,3 km på literen, og den halvårlige ejerafgift på kun 290,giver god plads til andre fornøjelser som fx powershopping og impulskøb. Kør ind i det nye år med stil. Prøv Citroën C1.
Besøg os ved indgangen og deltag i konkurrencen om en Citroën C1 i en weekend. CRÉATIVE TECHNOLOGIE
Brændstofforbrug v./bl. kørsel 23,3 km/l. CO2 99 g/km. De angivne priser er ekskl. lev. kr. 3.680,- og gælder ved køb inden 28.02.2013. Finansiering: Citroën C1 1.0i Clim Seduction: Udb. 26.000,-. Saml. omk. efter 96 mdr. 121.520,- inkl. levering og metallak. ÅOP før skat 8,57%. Variabel rente 3,25%. Tilbuddet gælder alene hos de Citroën-forhandlere, der deltager i kampagnen. Tilbuddet kan ikke kombineres med andre særaftaler med rabatydelse. Den viste model kan være inkl. ekstraudstyr mod en tillægspris. Forbehold for pris-, rente-, afgiftsændringer og trykfejl.
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE BRIEFING
FIVE TO WATCH Words
R asmus Folehave Hansen
Keep an eye on these five up-and-coming brands as the new season draws closer. From philantropic styles and party-oriented t-shirt prints to an Asian �Danish combo, you’re sure to hear more about these names in the not too distant future.
DRINK BEER SAVE WATER As you might imagine, Drink Beer Save Water was conceived during a night of drunkenness. But the idea stuck, and now it is a brand based on humour and the brillant notion that, like booze, funny and imaginative fashion items can be used for social lubrication.
Drinkbeersavewater.com
DANLE DING
BRAND 8
It’s her name, get used to it. Formerly a student at Århus Kunstakademi, now based in Beijing, Danle Ding works with cashmere, silk and leather to create a wearable and classy combination of Asian sensitivity and Scandinavian simplicity..
Copenhagen-based Brand 8 styles itself as a street fashion label for grown-up men. Collaborations with various designers keep a steady flow of different patterns and motifs going through their collections. With 8 percent of their proceeds donated to charities around the world, these guys are putting their money where their mouth is.
Danles-lab.com
Br and8shop.com
Girls FIRST choice 1. is a newcomer of established fashion brand Object Collectors and the fashion scene in general. With collections that are seductive and wearable its mix of everything from denim and jersey to rock ‘n’ roll-style jackets for the city girl. Go and see vfor yourself on this seasons Vision.
bestseller.com
LOUISE EEG
Louise Eeg, formerly behind the successful Gratia brand, knows her audience well. With more than 20 years in the business of luxury accessories, she now runs her Copenhagen shop catering to an audience with a taste for super-feminine accessories and leather bags, wallets, necklaces and bracelets.
Louiseeeg.com
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SUBSCRIBE NOW! SPORTSWEARNET.COM/SUBSCRIPTION SUBSCRIBE@SPORTSWEARNET.COM
since 1975
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE WINNING FORMULA
The Recipe For Success Words
R asmus Folehave Hansen
Images
OLIVIA FRØLICH & Casper Sejersen
As CCO of Rosemunde, Torben Olsen, age 48, has a lot on his desk. His responsibility spans all the way from the design phase to the finished pieces that reach shoppers at the company's many international retail locations. In just eight years, Rosemunde has managed to build a strong presence in Europe and Asia despite recent adverse market conditions and is projecting growth into the next years’ budgets. When it comes to their recipe for success, Torben Olsen explains, communication is the key.
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE WINNING FORMULA
How did you percieve the change coming to Rosemunde from your previous job at Ilse Jacobsen? “At Ilse Jacobsen I was only in charge of sales. What’s new for me here at Rosemunde is the fact that I also need to work with the design side of things. To me, it makes perfect sense to make the connection between sales and design. We have our chief designer here in Denmark, and unless she knows what our partners in Canada, Germany or China are saying right now, she’ll be out of the loop in terms of crucial international developments and trends. I think too many companies tend to ignore this important connection.” Were your sales-minded methods met with skepticism by the design team when you arrived at Rosemunde? “Not really. They were very open to change. The designers need this kind of input, and they are hungry for it. But sometimes the information doesn’t travel all the way through the chain of command. The designers also follow trends and prognoses of all sorts, but they may not be the same as mine, and that’s why sparring between departments is so important. I travel a lot, but I have at least one weekly meeting with our design team, where we exchange notes, ideas and images for inspiration.” How do you utilise this information, then? “We need look further than to the colour palette. The Danish designers may select certain colours with inspiration from London or somewhere else, but if that means missing opportunities on the German market, which is huge, because other colours may be trending there, we add a few colours just for the Germans. The designers may not agree, but it’s not a matter of placating the designer, but of being able to sell our collections in the intended markets.”
rosemunde.com
Is Rosemunde flexible enough to move with sudden decisions like that? “Yes indeed. It has to do with the internal culture of the company. In many places, designers are somewhat isolated and free to do as they like, but this often comes at the expense of remembering that the items actually have to sell. Not here.” How do you get a sense of direction for a new collection? “It’s a question of looking to the core of the brand: the basic Rosemunde item is the lace top, so the collections are built around that. In a positive sense, we are obligated by our basic style to develop new collections in that direction. It’s a constant challenge make them keep up with current trends while staying true to ourselves.” So much for sales strategies. what’s the most important aspect of a well-oiled company machine with a highly motivated staff? “Communication and information. Interdisciplinary communication is the key to optimising the use of knowledge within the company. But in some workplaces, it’s actually discouraged. In my opinion, if you ignore this, it’s like shooting yourself in the knee. We have weekly meetings for all employees, and we make sure that there’s a published agenda, so people know that we’re not just there for a sip of coffee.” ☺
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
THE SOCIAL NETWORK Words
SIMON FRIESE
Images
Sacha Maric
Hair & Makeup
Maya barfoed
We’ve rounded up our 'Friends', the ones we really 'Like': Seven, young Danes who all have succeeded big time in the digital sphere. From top bloggers to fashion entrepreneurs, from online editors to innovative web designers.
kristoffer dahy ernst 27 YEARS OLD Online editor at Euroman and founder of Fuckyouverymuch.dk
Preferred social media outlet? “Twitter and Instagram (@dahyernst).” What has been your recipe for success online “Be honest and consistent. Produce and distribute quality content. Use humour, write with wit, engage with your readers. Read other peoples' stories, visit new sites, be inspired. Find some friends with good taste who will recommend great stuff. And share everything you find.” What is your characteristic signature work-wise? “I try to be modest and honest. I applaud improvements, originality and most of all hard work. I communicate good ideas and recommend carefully crafted products.” How would you describe the competition in your market? “At Euroman we strive to produce high-quality content. Our magazine stands on two legs: in-depth journalism in both shorter and longer stories and a fashion section with easily accessible, stylish clothing that will make you look good. Euroman.dk is the natural extension of the printed edition of Euroman with both articles and a style section from the magazine.” What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? “My RSS-feed is enormous, but some of the better ones are: Thingsmagazine.net is incredible source for all things amazing, Businessoffashion.com is the business side of the industry, Magculture.com/blog for all things print and Valetmag.com for great daily collection of links.”
EUROMAN.dk
WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? “Twitter will continue to grow, Facebook will monetize on their Instagram-purchase which eventually will mean advertising on the platform. Long-form journalism will rise even more and people will indulge in a fuller experience with text, sound and video integrated.” ☺
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
lookdepernille.com
PERNILLE TEISBÆK 28 YEARS OLD Fashion blogger, designer and stylist
Preferred social media outlet? “Blogs and different news media.” What has been your recipe for success online? “I think it's important to constantly develop your work on the blog and make posts every day, so you don't disappoint your readers. Always be on top of all news, in my case collections and collaborations, and answer all questions the readers ask you.” What is your characteristic signature work-wise? “It's my style. My readers follow my blog, because they like my style and the things work with in fashion.” How would you describe the competition in your market? “There are 75,000 Danish blogs now, not all of them are fashion related, but there are many great ones to choose among. That is not a bad thing for me, because it's amazing that there is more focus and respect about the art of blogging.” Who inspires you online? “I get inspiration from many sites, but I love watching street style photos from fashion weeks and vintage photos of French actresses.” What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? “Berlingske.dk and Women's Wear Daily for news updates, Style.com and Net-a-porter for catwalk, shopping and street style pictures.” WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? “It's for sure a growing market, because of the high interest in blogs, constantly need for news updates and net shopping.” ☺
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
lesdeux.dk
Preferred social media outlet? “Instagram (@acvonderheide).” What has been your recipe for success online? “I don't believe in a specific recipe and I don't think that there is one. What we have done is find a niche market, where we combine the to different styles: the kid from the streets meeting the preppy Harvard student. Then we have specialized in social medias. One thing is to have a Twitter, Pinterest, Facebook or another social media account but it is how you combine the back office with these social media accounts. We know how to engage our customers in the 'Les Deux Online Family', and together are making a difference. For example, when we are building a school in Zambia all our customers are taking part of this and they are a part of something bigger they are making a difference.” What is your characteristic signature work-wise? “Don't do like the others do.” How would you describe the competition in your market? “The competition in the market in general is hard. We are not focusing on competing with all the big sites such as ASOS, Nelly etc. instead we love to work with them, make them help us and be part of our introduction in new markets. We can't compete with multi-million concepts yet but we do offer a much higher service level then they do. So they should be afraid cause we are better.” Who inspires you online? “I'm not inspired by one specific person or one specific site. I'm inspired by the person who can build something from the ground and make a living of it. Girls who turn their blogs into a lifestyle and makes a living of it are inspiring.” What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? “Industribolaget.blogg.se, Børsen.dk, Facebook and Instagram.” WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? “It will only grow from here. Online shopping is the future. You have to accept the fact and build your business up with a specific web strategy.” ☺
Andreas Christian von der Heide 24 YEARS OLD Partner at Lesdeux.dk
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
trineswardrobe.dk
Trine kjær 24 YEARS OLD owner of Trine’s Wardrobe and Fashion Coordinator at Cover Magazine
Preferred social media outlet? "I’m completely obsessed with Instagram". What has been your recipe FOR success online? "I definitely hit the right time when I started Trine’s Wardrobe 4 years ago. There were only a few Danish fashion blogs at that time, and therefore the competition wasn’t as tough as today! Then I’ve really worked hard. I haven’t taken a day off in 4 years, since continuous posts are really essential if you want to have a successful blog. Another important thing is that I make sure to answer every comment my readers write – the dialogue between them and I is everything". What is your characteristic signature work-wise? "My 'look of the day' posts are definitely the most popular. It’s pretty simple actually, I take a picture of what I wear and then upload it. I guess, people really love to see how a “normal” girl style her clothes". How would you describe the competition in your market? "It’s a really tough market. Everybody has become really global, and for most Danish girls it doesn’t matter if a site is written in Danish or in English. Therefore, the competition is global. It seems like almost every girl in 2013 runs a blog, and I tell you there’s a lot of girls with great style around the world". Who inspires you online? "I really love the Swedish blogger Elin Kling. Not only does she have an amazing style, but she’s an entrepreneur too. She runs a magazine, appears as guest designer for different brand and she has just sold her online platform nowmanifest to Conde Nast/Fairchild Media". What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? "I always check outstyle.com to get my daily dose of Fashion. I love jakandjil.com - they have the best street style pictures and cover.dk to get some fashion news. I’m addicted to instagram and use the app a lot during the day. Actually it has replaced facebook, I almost never use facebook after I discovered instagram". WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? "I believe that online platforms will just keep growing in 2013. I can still see the number of my readers growing every day, and since our generation has a huge need to communicate and to get new information – I can’t see the reason why it shouldn’t keep on growing. Another important fact is that most online platforms are free which I believe is also an explanation of why they have so much success - especially during these financial crisis days". ☺
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
Preferred social media outlet? “Instagram.” What has been your recipe FOR success online? “We aim to create success online as well as in other contexts for our clients, but regarding our own success, I think success online is similar to success within every endeavor into entrepreneurship. A simplistic recipe might just consist of working hard and being mostly nice to people. Following your gut when making decisions, being clear about what sets you apart from the rest of the market and surrounding yourself with talented people, doesn't hurt either.“ What is your characteristic signature work-wise? “I’m not sure how clear our own signature is to ourselves, but in regards to aesthetics, system is king. Another signature of ours might be our design approach, where technology has been a key element since b14 was established in 2006.” How would you describe the competition in your market? “Danish design is a strong brand and we are proud to be amongst some of the most talented colleagues and competitors in Copenhagen. I think the competition has a friendly face in the design market. We are blessed with having a digital and integrated approach to design, and that has given us a strong position in the market. It surely is a very competitive market and you need to be on your toes. But we wouldn’t have it any other way.” Who inspires you online? “I get inspired by strong design systems, clear and fluid navigation flows, great content and small details. But I rarely pay attention to the creators - my bad.” What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? “It might not be on a daily basis, but for inspiration I glance at some of these: Siteinspire.com, Itsnicethat.com, Septemberindustry.co.uk, Ted.com and many more.” WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? “The death of Facebook and the return of Myspace, no? If not, then most likely further development of the digital future. Everything is or will be browser or app based. Content will still be king and the demands for being able to make decisions and take action on your smartphone will especially leave its mark. It’s gonna be thrilling.”
rasmus høymann laursen 36 YEARS OLD Head of Design, b14
b14.dk
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE PORTFOLIO
blog.adelie.dk
Tikkie Oestrich Iversen & Mads Elsøe 27 & 28 YEARS OLD Founders of Adelie.dk and Adélie Boutique
Preferred social media outlet: “Instagram and Facebook.” What has been your recipe FOR success online? “Tikkie started her blog in 2010. The whole business aspect wasn’t planned from the beginning, but we suddenly saw this great potential in all Tikkie's loyal readers to do something new and exciting - for them and for us. We came up with the idea to open a webshop with our own favourite brands, and with Tikkie's aesthetics as a concept and consistent guide. We think that we have been both skilled and lucky to hit a nerve in a certain niche of people, and we believe that it is because our target audience is ourselves, and we know what we like. Tikkie always buys with her heart, and we think that reflects in our selection.” What is your characteristic signature work-wise? “We really rely on our gut and intuition when we work, and we are really relaxed. At the same time we are organized and ambitious people. We find this to be a good mix. We aim to put a personal signature on every part of the business, while continuing to grow. We really want to keep the independent and local vibe while striving to grow internationally. That is what is so beautiful about doing business online, in our opinion.” How would you describe the competition in your market? “Extremely fierce. There are a lot of great Danish web shops, and even more really good international ones, and that is a constant reminder to always optimize our site's usability and our internal workflows. But it is also a really inspiring business to follow and participate in, as our interests lie within fashion and online communication and commerce. We think that we have found ourselves a good expression, somewhere between a Parisian beauty and a Copenhagen cool cat that our customers really responds well to.” Who inspires you online? “We are really inspired by La Garconne, and their simplistic and uncompromising take on the fashion webshop. Also Voo Store is a really big inspiration visually. In menswear we are really inspired by the online presence of Tres Bien Shop, and while we are in Sweden, we have to mention Acne of course. Concept wise we think that Farfetch is really interesting, and we see a great potential in that kind of curated marketplaces to help the small boutiques reach the international markets.” What sites, blogs and profiles do you use on a daily basis? “Tikkie recently co-created a new Danish network of blogs called Bisou, that includes Adelie.dk, Fredesblog. dk, Feedmyego.net, Thestylecavalry.com and Brigadenoir.com. All the Bisou bloggers are deeply rooted in the fashion industry as either stylists, shop owners, journalists, fashion directors or sales managers. We also follow trends and business on sites such as Mashable.com, Fashionforum.dk, Fastcompany.com and Borsen.dk.” WHAT ARE YOUR PREDICTIONS FOR online developments in 2013? “In e-commerce we believe that in 2013 is all about fine tuning your omni-channel strategy, because we believe that a bricks and mortar store to complement your online present is a really good strategy - not everybody is comfortable with shopping online without having the chance to see, feel and try the items. Also, we think that mobile shopping will continue to grow in 2013, and the tablet will be even more popular as a shopping device.” ☺
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BRANDING Corporate identity Advertising Print Packaging Client publishing Digital communication
BRUNSWICKER Dag Hammarskjölds Allé 5 2100 Copenhagen Ø Denmark Telephone +45 4021 1033 info@brunswicker.dk brunswicker.dk
THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE FEATURE
Five trends that last Words
frederik bjerrega ard
From 3D printing of the season’s fashion must haves to the future of street fashion; from integration of content and commerce to our INDUSTRY'S hottest ACCESSORY: Fashion film. Now without further ado, sit back and enjoy our selection of five trends THAT ARE HERE TO STAY.
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE FEATURE
Fashion films are hot Trust the iconic Chanel designer Karl Lagerfeld to get that fashion films are the hottest branding device these days. According to him catwalk shows were fine when restricted to a selected few. Now billions of people want relationships, with brands whether they are French fashion houses or high street labels from Copenhagen. To satisfy the masses, emotional appeal has become more important than before. One answer is easily spread fashion film. To have impact among competitors in the fashion world, a short movie must be a piece of culture with an authentic story that allows the message to live on in people’s minds. Smart brands have already grasped the power of three-dimensional fashion and are making small movies the next big thing. If in doubt, go to Fashiontube.com for latest updates.
Is street style in trouble? You probably discovered that street style, the photographic vox-pop, is one of the most explosive trends within fashion media. Skim your way through magazines and blogs and you will find self-styled boys and girls en masse. The thrill of street style is in its easy accessibility, the imagination and personal aesthetics. For the viewer, the pay-off could be creative fashion at its best. The Sartorialist’ Scott Schuman, Facehunter’s Yvan Rodic are examples of how street style can help to shape the fashion industry. But the genre may be losing its cachet. The number of bloggers, backer of street-style imagery, is growing at a rate too fast for maintaining quality control. Unfamiliar with fashion, the new thousands of new girls and boys in the street style class go for easy, ordinary looks. This tendency risks either drowning the scene.
The next big thing: 3D printing Fancy the newest statement wristband from your favourite London designer, or some elegant Italian shades? Its actually possible today. In the near future, you may be able to download a design file online and 3D print all the copies you want. The technology itself isn’t new. Since the 1990’s architect studios have been using it for prototyping. Today 3D printing is starting to find its way into the hands of the consumer end of the technological development chain. With a computer, software and a 3D printer, it’s now possible to produce your very own sunglasses, wristbands or a top. This democratisation of the design opens up amazing opportunities, but also has some challenging implications for brand copyrights. 3D printing can be used to create new, personalised products, extending what is currently possible with existing mass customisation platforms such as Nike’s successful i-D concepts that allow the consumer to design their own trainers. But the future is wide open up for this and your fashion purchase could end up being downloading a pattern from a hot designer and printed in the colour or material of your choice. The future looks bright and creative.
thesartorialist.com gar ancedore.fr y vanrodic.com jak andjil.com tommyton.tumblr.com Fashiontube.com
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE FEATURE
Recognition is vital Brand recognition is essential today – and for the future. Fashion collections go online before press report the shows and buyers get to the showroom and make their choice - and before advertising campaigns or magazine editorials can express the look of the season. This means that successful branding is measured by how easy it is to identify a look. It’s not about logos or overt symbols. Ultimately, the power of a designer is to be able to maintain a vision and to project that for the consumer. With nil advertising and downplayed self-promotion, labels as different as H&M’s smaller sister COS, the Swedish fashion label Acne and French designer Azzedine Alaïa have achieved such clarity that almost every single piece in their different collections has an instantly recognisable look.
The new content and commerce Since the birth of the lifestyle magazine almost a century ago, editorial content has been a generator of the reader's desire for fashion pieces. And now, in 2010’s, the path between inspiration and transaction has never been easier to navigate. Over the years, the web has hooked up a new reality and given rise to business models integrating commerce and content, offering all of us an easy approach to purchasing and allowing both magazine publishers and retailers to tap into this new reality. Super retailers like Net-aPorter and Mytheresa.com add editorial-style content to their sites brilliantly. Now a new wave of websites, applications and services is growing. One wave is the promising crop of imagesharing apps that are taking another approach to commerce integration and assist with streams of fashion inspiration for users to browse through. The kind of content that generates demand for fashion products is global and spread quickly across blogs and social networks like Facebook and Instagram. The next step is that commerce will become even more portable so the entire web will be one, big decentralized marketplace, where every encounter with a piece of inspiring fashion content is a potential sale for the label. ☺
WHEN THINGS BECOME TOO POPULAR THEY ARE ALWAYS FADING AWAY FOR SOMETHING ELSE - Karl Lagerfeld
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE TALK
BE UNIQUE
Words
R asmus Folehave Hansen
Images
Lachlan Bailey
Born and raised in Stockholm, Nina Bogstedt, 45, is the latest addition to the Designer’s Nest panel of judges. But she’s no newcomer to the fashion business. Having worked first as a designer, and now as Head of Design and Range Director for Filippa K, Nina is amply qualified to scrutinise this season’s catwalk entries during our grand showdown of style.
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE TALK
When did you know that you would be a designer? “Since I was quite young, I knew that I wanted to do something creative, either in interior design, architecture or fashion. I remade clothes from my parents’ closets, cutting and re-sewing old suit jackets from my father and my mother’s old dresses from the 1960s.” What’s your place in the fashion cycle: Do you jump on the latest trends when iT comes to your personal style, or have you settled on a signature look for yourself? “I have a very classic and quite basic look. I have wardrobe favourites that I mix with new items. Of course I have a lot of Filippa K garments, since I have been with the brand for so long. The Filippa K style is like my own.” Where do you find your stylistic influence? “I like to travel, and I always get inspiration from seeing people in the streets around me. Together with the design team I try to get away from Stockholm and experience other cities at least once or twice per season. New York and Tokyo are big favourites. I also feel that just having a conversation – with the others in the team or friends – is one of the biggest inspirations of all.” What do you think is the particular appeal of Scandinavian fashion on the international scene? “Maybe that it’s quite wearable. Style-wise there are a lot of different directions within the Scandinavian brands, but a common factor is that many of brands do collections that you can easily understand and use in your daily life.”
You have been part of the fashion world for many years and seen many talents come and go. Have you noticed patterns as far as the types of people who tend to make it through the eye of the needle? “I find that designers who are able to communicate as well as realise their ideas the best are the ones who succeed. The skill of explaining what’s in your head becomes very important the minute you are working with other people and not on your own. Another factor is the ability to deliver on time! It’s easy to be creative without boundaries, but a lot harder when there is a deadline. I also think that being creative and delivering several collections a year continuously is what really weeds out the mediocre from the great ones.” WHERE WOULD YOU ADVISE YOUNG DESIGNERS TO PUT THEIR ENERGY IN ORDER TO SUCEED? “Be unique, there are so many talented designers out there, so a clear message is one of the most important things. Focus on one thing and try to be really good at it instead of having too much variation in terms of products and ideas. Find your passion – it shows when you are doing something you believe in, and develop your skills. Sketching, sewing and patternmaking as well as communication are needed to convey your creative ideas.” What's more important to you, great ideas or solid craftsmanship? “A combination of both, definitely. Without a clear idea of what you want to do, there’s nothing. Craftsmanship is an important factor in realising the idea, of course. And even though in a team you don’t have to do everything yourself, I think it’s important to at least know the basics.” How do you view the balance between natural talent and skills to be learned? Is it just a question of “some people have it, some don't”? “Creative talent is something you’re born with. It’s a way of thinking and a basic curiosity that’s a driving force in all that you do. Then you have to develop it. Practical skills such as drawing can be learned. Design is also about experience; trying out things and finding your personal way of channelling creativity.” ☺
FILIPPAK.COM
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THE VISION PAPER Autumn ⁄ Winter 2013
THE LAST WORD
EMMA LETH Words
SIMON FRIESE
Image
olivia frØhlich for brics
SHE IS A GIRL OF MANY TALENTS on the Copenhagen cultural scene, running a movie club, modeling, acting, DJ-ING and blogging. Meet 22 year old Emma Leth whose best piece of winter fashion advice is to replace the champagne with a beer and wear warm shoes. What does fashion mean to you?
“I like to look at and wear great design, but I am not that conscious about tendencies and the designers that make the new collections and trends. I appreciate the spirit and feeling of wearing goodlooking clothes and as a movie devotee I always get a shortness of breath when a designer is paying attention to the classical virtues from the movie universes – the silhouettes of the first Givenchy dresses made for Audrey Hepburn back in the days for instance.”
is a secret spot close to Torvehallerne on Israels Plads that serves the greatest pancakes in town. I prefer to go out to bars such as Café Blomsten on Istedgade and when shopping, I always turn to the Wood Wood store on Gammel Mønt.”
You are modeling on campaigns and THE catwalk. What has it taught you about the industry?
What characterizes Scandinavian fashion?
“In fashion, more than anywhere else, you really have to hold on to yourself. After a day working with pictures or on a catwalk you sometimes have to list up your own qualities for yourself before going to bed. It can be hard to keep one's feet on the ground, but the superficiality is also the liberating and cool thing about the industry, and a lot of people misinterpret the superficiality as fakeness.”
“Scandinavians – and especially Danes - are famous for a practical and comfy aesthetics, I guess. We are not afraid of using a blouse as scarf and to combine sweat pants with high heels, if we like to look. It’s really about feeling well in the clothes you wear and I am a big fan of that.”
What are your go-to Scandinavian labels?
What happens to the city when Copenhagen Fashion Week is going on?
“Danish jeweler Sophie Bille-Brahe, Wood Wood and Stine Goya are my favorites.”
“It’s a bit like circus coming to town. People are brining colors to the town and that’s always exiting.”
Which trends does never go out of style?
When in Copenhagen, where do you prefer to shop, eat and have a drink? “The best steak tartare is served at Pastis in Gothersgade, but the place is indeed a Fashion Week stopover, so tables are probably fully booked already. French creperie La Pétanque in Rømersgade
semi-femi.cover.dk
“Looking good is easier when you are having fun. I think a trend that never goes out of style is to hang out with people you like instead of trying to look stylish.”
What are you looking for when spotting a new designer?
“My favorite brands are all established by people that obviously invest so much time and dedication in their clothes that their personality becomes a part of it. I get captivated when I see emerging talents put a lot of heart and soul in their work and also allow imperfections and edginess.”
Fashion week
“Drink beer instead of champagne, keep your feet on the ground, and please wear warm shoes.” ☺
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WELCOM E TO DEF I NI NG SCANDI NAVI A
Jan u ary 3 1 st - February 3rd 2013. All d ays 1 0 AM - 5 PM
A new international platform for Scandinavian design and living. Defining Scandinavia is an innovative fair with a clear mission to unite and promote the best of the Scandinavian design universe. Venue: Ă˜ksnehallen, Copenhagen
Defining Scandinavia
www.definingscandinavia.com
EGEKILDE PASSER
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