FRONT ROW
MEET COPENHAGEN FASHION’S HOTTEST TALENT
TH E S EC R E T S O F N OA N OA’ S STAY I N G P OW E R & FI V E B R A N DS TO WATC H TH I S S E A SO N T H E FA S H I O N I N S I D E R S ’ G U I D E TO C O P E N H AG E N P LU S V E RO M O DA’ S W I N N I N G F O R M U L A & VO G U E I TA L I A’ S federico poletti
Sprin g ⁄ Summe r 20 13
www.citroen.dk
NEW DRIVING GEAR? A unique car deserves a unique introduction – which is why the new Citröen DS5 was fittingly launched with a design competition featuring five innovative Danish fashion designers. The competition was called Design5 and the challenge facing the participants was to create an outfit that captured the car’s distinctive styling and interior. That the Citröen DS5 is an inspiring car was evidenced by the five striking creations on the catwalk in the grand finale where Vibe Lundemark was judged the winner for her entry, “Tabernacle Twins”. Citröen Denmark wishes to thank all the participating designers and everybody who played a part in making the Danish premiere of Citröen DS5 such an outstanding event.
READ MORE ABOUT THE DESIGN COMPETITION, BOOK A TEST DRIVE AND WIN AN IPAD AT BLOG.DS5.DK The Citröen DS5 and the five design entries can be seen throughout Copenhagen Fashion Week at VISION, Lokomotivværkstedet, Otto Busses Vej 5A, 2450 Cph. SV
CRÉATIVE TECHNOLOGIE
SPON DIOGO
BIBI GHOST
TABERNACLE TWINS
ANNE SOFIE MADSEN
WACKERHAUS
PAGE 04 ⁄ 28
THE content
THE CONTENT The Vision paper ss13
04 The introduction Welcome to VISION.
06 The talk Go behind the scenes of VISION with CEO Peter Fenger Selchau and get his take on the new VISION. 08 The briefing Five designers to watch this season… notes on the Danish fashion scene… Vero Moda’s winning formula… all the news from VISION. 16 The feature What started as a small company in a basement in Helsingør, Denmark is today an international fashion phenomenon. Discover the secrets of Noa Noa's success. 18 The portfolio The fashion creatives making it happen on the Copenhagen fashion scene. 24 The address book Peerless shopping, some of the world’s best cuisine and non-stop parties… Copenhagen has it all. Here’s our city guide. 26 The last word A conversation with journalist and curator Federico Poletti, one of Milan’s foremost fashion authorities and a Designers’ Nest judge this season.
A VISIONARY CATWALK
For the first time ever, Vision has its own catwalk this season. Mark your Fashion Week calendar with a gamut of shows… from the esteemed Danish brand Noa Noa to the new guard of designers from The Royal Academy, School of Design. Thursday August 9th 10AM The Royal Academy, School of Design. 1PM Noa Noa Friday August 10th 3PM Designers’ Nest show & Award Saturday August 11th 11AM max.tan makes his first Copenhagen appearance 2PM Kolding School of Design
TVP ss13
Photography by Uta Eisenreich
Collection Spring 2013 Stand no. L423
PAGE 06 ⁄ 28
THE introduction
TVP ss13
WELCOME TO VISION P eter fenger selchau , ceo
Our dream is now a reality: two of Scandinavia’s most renowned fashion fairs – CPH VISION AND TERMINAL-2 – are merged into one, strong and united platform, Vision. A fashion city within the city, we have conceived Vision as a thrilling, humming marketplace in the stunning setting of historic red brick train hangars with vast 25-metre ceilings. This exciting move brings brands and designers together under one roof – giving exhibitors, buyers and professionals a totally comprehensive and accessible fashion experience. A stronger, more creative fair, Vision heralds a new era of dialogue and networking in the industry. Over the past six months we have worked hard to set a progressive agenda, to get the message out that Vision is here. Like you, we want Copenhagen to continue to be the market leader and preferred fashion destination in our region. And with that in mind, we wish you all a fantastic Fashion Week.
FRONT ROW
MEET COPENHAGEN'S FASHION SCENES YOUNG VETS
FU RTH E R M O R E I N TH I S I SSU E TH E E STE E M E D N OA N OA & FI V E - N E W- B R A N DS -TO -WATC H TH I S S E A SO N P LU S T H E F O R E I G N E R S G U I D E TO C O P E N H AG E N , V E RO M O DA' S W I N N I N G F O R M U L A & M I L A N ’ S OW N F E D E R I C O P O L E T T I
Spring ⁄ Summe r 20 13
Image Sacha Maric Model Tina Mogensen ⁄ 2PM Make-up Gry Kjærgaard for MAC
Editor-in-chief frederik Bjerregaard frederikbjerregaard.com art direction ⁄ design Mark brunswicker brunswicker.dk contributors rasmus folehave hansen, Cath clarke, sacha maric, Gry kjærgaard for mac Print berlingske avistryk Published by exhibition professionals, Lysagervej 10, 2920 Charlottenlund, Denmark, +45 3964 8586, info@cphvision.dk ⁄ cphvision.dk
INTERNATIONAL CHILDREN’S FASHION FAIR, COPENHAGEN VENUE TAP1
PHOTO
WDV STUDIO
9 - 11 AUGUST, 2012 DEFINING THE FUTURE WWW.CPHKIDS.COM
PAGE 08 ⁄ 28
THE TALK
TVP ss13
MAKING IT HAPPEN words frederik bjerregaard
WELL OVER TEN YEARS HAVE PASSED SINCE THE FIRST CPH VISION. IN THE MEANTIME, THE FAIR HAS EVOLVED, RELOCATED AND EXPANDED. NOW, VISION IS EXACTLY WHERE ITS FOUNDERS WANT IT TO BE: IN A BEAUTIFUL, EDGY LOCATION HOSTING THE MOST INNOVATIVE NAMES ON THE NORTHERN FASHION SCENE. CEO PETER FENGER SELCHAU CHRONICLES THE JOURNEY.
cphvision.dk
How did it all begin? “We founded CPH Vision in 1998. Our goal was to create an innovative platform for fresh, independent Nordic and international design brands: a place for pure design and streetwear to meet and do business. From the outset, CPH Vision was all about giving the little fish a chance to swim in international fashion waters. Since then, our network of collaborators has grown beyond our wildest dreams. VISION has transcended its early aims and now encompasses all forms of fashion and lifestyle in one big, beautiful mix. It just goes to show that you never know what you’re getting yourself into.” What’s the secret behind Vision’s success? “We showcase innovative fashion, and we never try to dictate what’s In and what’s Out. We deliberately mix high fashion with street style to create versatility and excitement by always introducing buyers and the press to something new. This year, we have taken steps to make the VISION experience even more enjoyable. Our new concept merges the two fairs, CPH Vision and Terminal-2. We’ll also be offering exhibitors the opportunity to create their own individual showrooms, either outdoors or inside the venue. By bringing exhibitors together in this way, we hope to create an outstanding total experience for everyone. But VISION is about much more than fashion. For us, it’s a place where business meets creativity, where high fashion rubs shoulders with street culture. And don’t forget the food and drink!”
Vision works so well as it is. Why change it? “Because we want Copenhagen to continue to be the fashion destination in Scandinavia. That’s why we’re merging the two fairs to create one united platform. The new arrangement of the collections will give visitors the opportunity to explore hundreds of brands. By bringing together designers and brands under one roof, we’re meeting the demands of exhibitors and buyers for a more comprehensive and accessible fashion experience.” HOW DO I LOCATE THE DIFFERENT STYLES AND BRANDS AT VISION? “That’s easy. To make everything more accessible, we have separated VISION into six areas, each with their own characteristic. The Boiler is where you’ll find the street and urban fashion brands, set in a raw, casual environment. If you’re looking for a premier edit of the region’s leading contemporary fashion brands, Pure is the place to be; a spot here is reserved for design-driven, internationally respected brands with potential for growth. We have Free, a platform for denim and sportswear, featuring the most innovative and bestselling casual brands around. At Dawn you’ll find new design talent and emerging brands carefully handpicked by the VISION team. Private is the place to go for independent brands with more of an artistic twist – in other words, design-driven fashion at its best. We also have a section dedicated to fashion-forward high street brands catering to a young, style-savvy crowd. As an added bonus, Seek is also host to a handful of interesting out-of-category brands.” ☺
AD Since 1981 DENMARK
Stand L419
PAGE 10 ⁄ 28
THE BRIEFING
TVP ss13
FIVE to watch AN ASIAN BREAKTHROUGH, A COOL TAKE ON SCANDINAVIAN STYLE, INSPIRATION FROM MOSCOW, A SWEDISH DEBUT AND A BRITISH DUO… HERE ARE NEW FIVE DESIGNERS YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT NOW.
Julia Seregina After studying economics and working for several years in international corporate marketing, Julia Seregina has taken the road less travelled into fashion. In 2008, she left her old life behind and enrolled at a British design school. She emerged as the full-fledged designer of intricate knitwear pieces, which she creates from her studio in Moscow. You’ll find Julia’s stall in Private.
max.tan Asia steps on to the European fashion scene with Singaporean designer max.tan, who won second place in China’s Fashion Creation Contest in 2010 and became the first Asian designer to showcase at Modefabriek in Amsterdam. Max works with a subdued colour palette, letting his lines do the talking. His signature cuts and concealed silhouettes are taking the fashion world by storm. Catch Max’s collection in the Private area.
Juliaseregina.com
Max-tan.com
Colour wear
Hailing from Sweden, CLWR is a young street brand specialising in functional and stylish apparel for skating, snowboarding or just plain chilling out. Prepare yourself for a riot of loud colours and rugged cuts when CLWR make their first appearance at VISION this year, in the Free area. Clwr.com
D.efect The easy-to-wear, ultra-cool designs of this newly established Danish brand make it the perfect day-tonight go-to. Mixing glamour with grunge, its distinctly Scandinavian AW12 collection signals a very bright future. D.EFECT will be showcasing in the Shine area. Defectonline.com
Insideout James Woolfin and Yvette White are the creative souls behind the artistic fashion label Insideout. How best to describe it? Well, imagine an elegant mix of couture and heavy metal and you get the idea. Catering to an exclusive audience, their printed black and white pieces in silk, cotton and jersey have attracted an army of discerning international followers. See what all the fuss is about at Private. Projectshowroomno5.com
THE VISION PARTY
On Friday August 10, VISION is hosting a grand party featuring Toomanylefthands, Phil Jones and Martin Nybye on the wheels of steel. Stoli Vodka, Heineken, Piper Heidsieck, Egekilde and Brugal are providing the drinks, so you are in for a bibulous treat. Get your invitation at VISION. See you there. Vision Party, Skuespilhuset, Skt. Annæ Plads 36. August 10th from 9.30 pm.
EVERY CENT FROM THE SALE OF THIS LIPSTICK AND LIP CONDITIONER GOES TOWARD HELPING WOMEN, MEN AND CHILDREN EVERYWHERE AFFECTED BY HIV AND AIDS. WWW.MACCOSMETICS.COM/VG
PAGE 12 ⁄ 28
THE winning formula
IT's NOT ABOUT FLashing money words rasmus folehave hansen
A TAILOR BY TRAINING, LEA ZEEBERG HAS BEEN THE DRIVING CREATIVE FORCE BEHIND VERO MODA FOR 13 YEARS. WITH THE LAUNCH OF A NEW LINE, VERO MODA VERY, THREE YEARS AGO, THE BRAND EVOLVED, TARGETING A NEW GENERATION OF ‘SUPER SHOPPERS’. THIS YEAR VERO MODA VERY ARRIVES AT VISION FOR THE FIRST TIME EVER. WITH BACKING FROM A MAJOR PARENT COMPANY, BESTSELLER, VERO MODA IS NOT EXACTLY YOUR TYPICAL DANISH FASHION BRAND, BUT THAT DOESN’T MEAN IT CAN KICK BACK AND REST ON ITS LAURELS, LEA ZEEBERG EXPLAINED – WHEN WE ASKED FOR HER WINNING FORMULA.
veromoda.com
THIS IS THE FIRST TIME VERO MODA VERY IS AT VISION. WHAT BRINGS YOU TO THE FAIR? We have always relied on our skilled salespeople to distribute Vero Moda internationally. But now the Scandinavian market is really beginning to pick up pace, so we figured that participating in VISION would give us another push in the right direction. HOW DOES THE ‘VERY’ LINE FIT INTO THE VERO MODA CONCEPT? We wanted something in each store window to appeal to the female super-shopper. We did this by developing a more fashion-forward expression, with different cuts and colours, still at a relatively low price point. Additionally, we want to reach our wholesale clients, who also stock other brands. WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF BEING PART OF A COMPANY LIKE BESTSELLER? By having a large base of suppliers and offices around the world we are able to place larger orders than our competitors, who have to work in smaller quantities. Many years of working with the same suppliers gives us a lot of goodwill and certain opportunities other brands don’t have. So we are able to compete favourably with more expensive brands in the same style-conscious category. COMPARED TO MANY BRANDS AT VISION, VERO MODA IS A HUGE OPERATION. WHAT CAN THE SMALLER COMPANIES LEARN FROM YOU, AND VICE VERSA? Yes, Vero Moda is part of a large operation, with access to thousands of stores, but Vero Moda Very acts independently like a smaller brand, so we face many of the same challenges as everyone else in the fashion industry. We also need to plan our marketing, set our goals and plan accordingly. It’s hard work and takes a lot of perseverance.
WHAT DOES IT TAKE THESE DAYS TO BUILD AND MAINTAIN A SUCCESSFUL BRAND? I don’t think that it necessarily takes a supermodel fronting your campaign to succeed. For instance, we now collaborate with the fashion blogger Pernille Teisbæk on a collection that will be launched at VISION. We use her to model our designs, and of course she keeps her blog updated with news of our work together. With this we’re hoping to reach the girls and women who spend much of their fashion time online reading blogs and shopping for good deals. This clearly signals that the power balance has been toppled in the fashion world. Not too long ago, a collaboration like this would have been almost unheard of – controversial even. What we’re seeing is a new version of the fashion business. Wearing our 2012-glasses, we can clearly tell that this is the more sensible way to go. Our marketing isn’t a question of flexing our muscles by throwing money around. These days, it’s more network-based in terms of working with industry insiders, as opposed to going for an expensive advertising campaign. HOW MUCH IS THE RECESSION RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS NEW WAY OF THINKING? Of course this is driven in large part by the recession. The fashion business is not going to slow its pace any time soon, but it can’t escape being influenced by the rest of the world. We see it in the choice of recycled fabrics and production techniques – they’re less luxury-oriented and wasteful. This is no doubt part of a wider social context. We have collectively realised that maybe it’s wise to be a bit more prudent. In my personal opinion, it makes good sense, too. ☺
THE BIG LUNCH
Say goodbye in style. Buyers and exhibitors, share your VISION experiences at The Big Lunch. In collaboration with Sweden’s Habit magazine we’ll be bringing you a delicious complimentary lunch and drinks courtesy of Egekilde and Heineken. The Big Lunch, Vision. August 11th from 12 pm to 2 pm.
TVP ss13
Interior during Copenhagen Fashion Week We are happy to introduce you to the Portobello Interior Fair. It takes place in the very heart of the bohemian part of Copenhagen during the Fashion Week. Why Together, four interior companies have created a brand new and very cozy interior fair concept. Where At the interior shop Portobello, Ndr. Frihavnsgade 62, 2100 Copenhagen Ă˜. When Saturday 11 August & Sunday 12 August 2012 from 10 am to 6 pm. You are welcome to book a meeting with one of the participating companies. We serve fresh pastries, coffee, wine & snacks during the day. Bring this invitation as your ticket. We are looking forward to seeing you!
www.thegallery-jane.com
www.houseoffurniture.dk
www.lindebjergdesign.dk
www.theorganicsheep.com
Ndr. Frihavnsgade 62, 2100 Copenhagen Ă˜
PAGE 14 ⁄ 28
THE BRIEFING
NEWS wo r ds R asmus F olehave H ansen
CITROëN PUTS FASHION TALENT IN THE DRIVER’S SEAT
MAC YOUR FACE
Visit the MAC lounge – coming to VISION for the first time. Relax as makeup artists from the fashion industry’s favourite cosmetics brand reveal their insider beauty tips. Find MAC in Private area. Maccosmetics.com
This year, Citroën celebrated the newest addition to its family, the DS5, with a fashion competition celebrating the creativity of Danish fashion’s brightest young design talent. Citroën challenged five designers (Anne Sofie Madsen, Bibi Ghost, Spon Diogo, Tabernacle Twins and Wackerhaus) to each create a catwalk look capturing the essence of the DS5. “All of the designers were amazingly skilled and creative,” says Jeanette Løbner, Citroen Denmark’s advertising manager. “It was great to follow the process and see the how they solved our challenge.” In the end the first prize of 55,555 DKK went to Vibe Lundemark and her one-woman brand Tabernacle Twins, for a wild, multi-coloured one-piece sleeveless suit. The five entries will be on display at Vision. As part of our commitment to the environment, Citroën’s electric car, the C-ZERO, will be providing a free shuttle service to and from VISION, August 9-11. citroen.DK
two SWEDISH DECADEs Wow, has it been that long already? This year, the Swedish brand most famous for its underwear collections celebrates its 20th anniversary. Drop by Bjørn Borg’s stall in the Free area to join the fun.
HEALTHY FEET
Bjornborg.com
It used to be that foot-friendly shoes meant unfashionable shoes. Birkenstock changed all that. The brand has a venerable history (founded in Germany in 1774) but it’s been in recent years that Birkenstock’s extraordinarily comfy sandals have become the go-to for the style set, worn by the likes of Madonna and Heidi Klum. Try them at the Birkenstock stall in the Free area. Birkenstock.com
GREEN AND EASY ACCESS
At VISION we’re dedicated to keeping a green profile. So Citroën’semission-free C-Zero cars will be shuttling you to and from the VISION venue. You can also save paper by using our Qr-code ticket. For swift and easy admission, follow the registration link on our website and fill in your details. You will then receive a Qr-code to be presented on your smartphone at the door, and voila! You’re in free. cphvision.dk
TVP ss13
NY EGEKILDE VITAMINVAND 0 KALORIER • 0 SUKKER • 0 FARVE
Hos Egekilde har vi glædet os til at kunne præsentere dig for en spændende nyhed. Det gør vi nu med vores nye serie af forfriskende vitaminvand – baseret på vores krystalklare, naturlige mineralvand fra kilden dybt under de gamle sydsjællandske egetræer. Egekilde vitaminvand fås i 3 friske varianter med smagen af hindbær, blodappelsin eller passionsfrugt – tilsat vitaminer og mild brus. Uanset hvilken en du vælger, er den naturligvis CO2 neutral ligesom alle andre Egekilde. Egekilde vitaminvand – 0 kalorier, 0 sukker og 0 farve.
www.egekilde.dk
PAGE 16 ⁄ 28
THE FEATURE
A BOHEMIAN TRADITION wo r ds R asmus F olehave H ansen
FOR MORE THAN THREE DECADES NOA NOA HAS BEEN A FIXTURE ON THE NORDIC FASHION SCENE – SINCE LONG BEFORE WE’D EVEN BEGAN TO THINK OF IT AS A ‘SCENE’. VISION SPOKE TO ROLAND JARLGAARD, BRAND DIRECTOR AT NOA NOA, AND MIE NIELSEN OF FEMMES REGIONALES TO FIND OUT HOW A BRAND MAKES IT TO THE TOP – AND WHAT IT TAKES TO STAY THERE. APPLIED TECHNOLOGY
Enhance your fashion week experience and keep in touch with all the updates using the VISION smartphone application. The app "VISION" provides the VISION brand list, news about events, floorplans and much, much more.
TVP ss13
TVP ss13
THE FEATURE
PAGE 17 ⁄ 28
noanoa.com
The Noa Noa story is a long one, so bear with us for a few lines while we recap… It began with a young man, Harald Holstein, who grew up in a family of creatives. His father, a ceramics artist, needed someone to distribute his handiwork, so Harald stepped in. A born salesman, he had a natural flair for spotting trends. Piece by piece, he expanded his stock to include bohemian fashion imported from the Far East. In the ’80s, Harald spied a gap in the Danish market: the lack of fashionable homegrown design. In 1981, he opened the first Noa Noa store in Helsingør. It was an instant success and for two decades the company continued to expand across Scandinavia and beyond. When boho swept fashion in the early 2000s, Noa Noa had its romantic designs – and a well-oiled production and distribution machine – in place. And so here we are: it’s 2012 and Noa Noa is bigger than ever. With 180 stores worldwide and an annual revenue of 550 million DKK, the company’s commercial success and longevity is beyond dispute. “But we can’t rest on our laurels,” insists Roland Jarlgaard, Noa Noa’s Brand Director. “Like many other companies, we are still recovering from the financial turmoil of the past five years. And we have to go with the flow of fashion and be willing to constantly reinterpret Noa Noa while staying true to our roots. Now the market trends toward vintage looks and sculptural shapes, which suits us perfectly. It’s a matter of creating an elegant continuation of the brand with a modern message. At least that’s how I view my role in the company: to build on the foundations. So now we have Noa Noa Atelier, a collection with different interpretations and progressive silhouettes that you might not expect to find at Noa Noa.” As part of his strategy to revamp the Noa Noa brand, Roland has hired the creative talents of the Femmes Regionales design agency to give the company’s visual profile a discreet, effective makeover. But with a well-established brand, change is a potentially risky business, and care must be taken to retain the core values, according the Femmes Regionales’s Mie Nielsen. “It’s a gift to work with a brand with this much history,” she explains. “We don’t believe in quick fixes, and we don’t believe in jumping on the next big trend and applying it to whichever brand you have in your hands. Building a great brand is about stamina, persistence and working with the values that are already present. One of the biggest challenges working with fashion brands is that they’re used to creating something new every six months, sometimes even more often than that. Noa Noa has succeeded in staying true to its origins. What’s been interesting working with them is that it was all there
when we arrived: the history, the aesthetics and the personality. It just needed a bit of love,” Mie concludes. Noa Noa has always been a strongly sales-oriented company, and the current management intends to keep it that way. It was never meant to be a purely design-driven brand, explains Roland: “The sales aspect has always been an integral part of our company philosophy. Our concept revolves around having many stores and giving the customer value for money.” On that note, it is far too easy to make the mistake of assuming that design-driven does not mean sales-oriented, and to forget that as much we appreciate the artistic, purely creative element of design, products are made to sell. If they do not, chances are your label will have a short lifespan. “I don’t think the two philosophies are actually that different,” Roland weighs in. “It depends how you view yourself as a brand. Some brands may claim to be purely design-driven, and of course there are some true idealists out there, but at the end of the day we all want to sell and generate revenue. At Noa Noa the two things go hand in hand, so we spend a lot of energy on the design part of the equation. At the same time, it has always been our key strategy not to set extravagant prices at the expense of losing our customer base. That doesn’t mean that you can’t find amazing robes and special styles in our stores. But if you want to go the luxury route, you’re entering an entirely different ballpark.” During the early years of Noa Noa, the Danish fashion scene operated under different conditions than now. The market and the buying audience steered the flow of trends in a more direct way, and fashion was measured by a different, more persistent and predictable yardstick. “The reason we have been able to expand and open franchises in so many countries is that people actually liked and bought our clothes, and the designs weren’t judged in the same kind of fashion context as applies these days. That has really changed the last 15 years,” Roland says. The very fact that his business card reads “Brand Manager” is a sure sign that Noa Noa has increased its brand awareness to keep up with the market. “A new culture has developed around Danish fashion. The work of an organisation like the Danish Fashion Institute is one example, and we see individual designers coming more and more into public view in their own right. Also, on the political stage we have seen radical changes, but only over the last six years or so. The decisionmakers have finally realised that fashion is an important part of the Danish economy and should be treated accordingly.” ☺
PAGE 18 ⁄ 28
THE portfolio
front row wo r ds R asmus F olehave H ansen I mages sacha maric
WE’VE ROUNDED UP THE USUAL SUSPECTS: A HANDFUL OF PEOPLE WHO, IN THEIR OWN SPECIAL WAYS, PULL THE STRINGS OF THE GREAT SPECTACLE WE HAVE COME TO KNOW AND CHERISH AS COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK. IT WOULDN’T BE THE SAME WITHOUT THEM.
TVP ss13
TVP ss13
THE portfolio
Anne Christine Persson development director
ANNE CHRISTINE PERSSON, AGE (IN HER OWN WORDS) “SOMEWHERE BETWEEN JUSTIN BIEBER AND COURTNEY LOVE”, HAS BEEN THE DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR OF COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK FOR 13 SEASONS. NEEDLESS TO SAY ANNE CHRISTINE HAS SEEN HER FAIR SHARE OF FASHION WEEK ACTION.
WHEN DOES FASHION WEEK BEGIN IN YOUR CALENDAR? “I’ll start working on AW13 before SS13 Fashion Week in August has even begun. Press, new partners, new collaborations and new ideas are some of the things I’m already working on as we speak." How do you spend your time during Fashion Week? "We invite and host a group of international press, so I will meet with them every day and guide them through it. We’ll go to the shows and events, have dinner at one of Copenhagen’s many great restaurants, see more shows, go to a party and then I will finish off the night by doing a bit of work and catching up with the ladies at the office." What might surprise people about your work? "The absurdly large number of hours I work, the absurdly few hours of sleep I get and how much preparation goes into each fashion week." WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS THIS SEASON? "I expect a very busy week, as there are close to 50 shows on the schedule. But most importantly, I hope to see a lot of buyers here placing large orders. That’s what it’s all about." WHOSE SHOWS CAN WE BE SURE TO FIND YOU AT? "Too many to mention, but Anne Sofie Madsen, Freya Dalsjö, Wood Wood, Peter Jensen, Moonspoon Saloon, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Adidas and Henrik Vibskov are some of the must-see shows. So much talent at the moment!" copenhagenfashionweek.com
PAGE 19 ⁄ 28
PAGE 20 ⁄ 28
THE portfolio
Tina Mogensen model & PR consultant
TINA MOGENSEN, 30, IS A MODEL AND PR consultant AT PATRIKSSON. A VETERAN OF MORE THAN TEN YEARS, TINA CAN TELL US A THING OR TWO ABOUT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK.
IS FASHION A JOB OR A PASSION? “Both. I’m passionate about my job and feel very privileged to work with beautiful clothes and exciting, creative people.” What might surprise people about your work? “That the Danish fashion industry is a surprisingly close-knit community and not nearly as cutthroat as you might think.” How do you spend your time during fashion week? “I work on our PR clients’ shows and events, and I’m lucky enough to still be doing some runway work. Possibly we’ll attend a party or two in the evening.” WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS THIS SEASON? “I expect it to be fun!” Whose show can we be sure to find you at? “Anne Sophie Madsen. She’s a genius!” patrikssoncommunication.com
TVP ss13
TVP ss13
THE portfolio
Jacob Kampp Berliner entrepreneur and CEO
JACOB KAMPP BERLINER, 36, IS AN ENTREPRENEuR, INVESTOR AND THE CEO OF SOULLAND. JACOB HAS ATTENDED EVERY FASHION WEEK SINCE THE LATE ’90S.
When does Fashion Week begin in your calendar? “After every Fashion Week we evaluate what’s worked and what hasn’t, and our preparation for the next season begins right there. So it’s a never ending cycle.” IS FASHION A JOB OR A PASSION? “It’s a tough job and a big passion. It’s so hard making it in this business – and that’s what makes it exciting.” What might surprise people about your work? “The amount of hours it takes to make a company like Soulland move forward. But also the amount of joy we have – there’s lots of laughs.” HOW DO YOU SPEND YOUR TIME DURING FASHION WEEK? “I wake up at seven, check emails and drop by the office before walking to the venue where I’m at the Soulland stall. In the evening, I go to meetings and take care of agents or buyers. Then late at night I’m getting drunk with the Soulland crew and our friends.” WHOSE SHOW CAN WE BE SURE TO FIND YOU AT? “Soulland! But I also hope to have time to see the shows of my good friends Stine Goya and Henrik Vibskov.” Soulland.eu
PAGE 21 ⁄ 28
PAGE 22 ⁄ 28
THE portfolio
TVP ss13
Marlo Saalmink Publicist
BASED IN COPENHAGEN, PUBLICIST MARLO SAALMINK, 29, HAS BEEN COMING TO FASHION WEEK FOR ALMOST A DECADE. FOR HIM, IT’S THE CLASH BETWEEN AESTHETICS AND BUSINESS THAT MAKES WORKING IN FASHION SO THRILLING.
When does Fashion Week begin in your calendar? “Immediately after the previous Fashion Week finishes. We round off the week with the designers we have worked with and calmly start scheming for next season.” How do you spend your time during Fashion Week? “Each morning I meet up early with my wonderful staff over espressos for a team briefing to discuss the shows we are handling that day. After that it’s nonstop networking and attending the shows of my favourite designers.” WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS THIS YEAR? “For me, it’s always interesting to see how the hugely talented Danish and Scandinavian fashion designers have developed.” Whose shows can we be sure to find you at? “Other than shows I am directing – Gaia, Wackerhaus and Odeur – I’m looking forward to seeing the new collections of Barbara I Gongini, Freya Dalsjö and Ann Sofie Madsen. They’re all interesting conceptual designers who continue to seek innovative construction and tailoring.” marlosaalmink.com
TVP ss13
THE portfolio
Camilla Frank editor- in - chief
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF THE DANISH WOMEN’S MAGAZINE ALT FOR DAMERNE, CAMILLA FRANK, 39, IS A WOMAN ON A TIGHT SCHEDULE AT COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK. BUT SHE ALWAYS FINDS TIME FOR A LUNCH DATE.
IS FASHION A JOB OR A PASSION? “Fashion, magazines and cakes are equally important in my life. Not necessarily in that order.” How do you spend your time during Fashion Week? “I only have two days at Fashion Week this season. On Thursday August 9, Alt for Damerne is hosting our Guldknappen fashion show, which is always a fantastic experience. Oh, and I’ve got lunch planned at Pastis in Gothersgade (they make my favourite French fries) with Fashion Editor Line Hindsgaul.” Whose shows can we be sure to find you at? “Guldknappen, of course, and definitely Malene Birger. Her collections get stronger every season. Also Baum und Pferdgarten are having a really exciting period. Anne Sofie Madsen is a new, very talented designer and Ole Yde – he doesn’t always present his collection with a show, but his collections are never less than beautiful.” WHAT ARE YOUR EXPECTATIONS THIS SEASON? “To collect as much inspiration as possible – and to people watch at all the events. Danish fashion has great taste.” altfordamerne.dk
PAGE 23 ⁄ 28
PAGE 24 ⁄ 28
THE guide
copenhagen's finest words Frederik Bjerregaard
Elinor Nystedt Stockholm Elior is br and & marketing manager at Weekday. Favourite shop I always visit our Weekday stores in Copenhagen, of course! And I always go to the Henrik Vibskov store. I like the interior. It’s a nice vibe and has an interesting selection. I look through the Vibskov collection and the Stine Goya pieces – my Danish favorite. Storm and Wood Wood also get a visit from me. Favourite Scandinavian brand There are so many, but my longtime favorite is Ann-Sofie Back. She takes on fashion in a really interesting way, questioning it with her unique expression. I really like the balance between femininity and masculinity in the look and styling of the brand. She has a very significant look but is always daring and renewing. Favourite night-spot I like to go for a nice dinner when I’m in Copenhagen. Right now I really like Radio and Atlas. Off schedule spot The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art. I love the atmosphere out there. It’s so beautiful with the location, art and nature, and there is something really calm resting over the whole place. Weekday.com
Rike Döpp & Julia Menthel Berlin RIKE IS CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND JULIA THE IS MANAGING DIRECTOR OF AGENCY V, BASED IN BERLIN BUT WITH OFFICES ACROSS NORTHERN EUROPE AND NEW YORK. Favourite shop Rike: We visit the stores of our clients, of course – US Import, Lala Berlin and Henrik Vibskov. I love going to Royal Copenhagen to pick up a cup or two. I’m transporting them to New York piece by piece, in my hand luggage. Favourite Scandinavian brand Julia: Obviously I’m very fond of Henrik Vibskov and love the way he expands his creative head into so many universes. Not so obviously, I really love Hans Bølling for his architecture and especially for his wooden birdies. They are simple, warm, peaceful and happy. Favourite night-spot Rike: I'm not the biggest raver, but I love going to Paté Paté for dinner (the soft boiled eggs with red beets!) and stay for an extra drink with Julia. But if you tell me where I can get a good negroni, I’m in. Off schedule spot Rike: Horse Racing in Klampenborg, and rhubarb marzipan beignets at Lagkagehuset. Agencyv.com
TVP ss13
TVP ss13
THE guide
JENNY OBRART london JENNY IS BUYER AT LIBERTY IN LONDON Favourite shop I enjoy visiting the conceptual stores like Wood Wood and Storm – they make great use of space so the products really stand out. The Norse Store feels like a hub of both anchor and emerging brands. The eclectic mix in a small space is a real showcase for cool products. Favourite Scandinavian brand Our Legacy is one of my favourites. I like the mix of fabrics from fluid trousers and coats to casual sweats and playful prints. It’s diverse yet directional. Favourite night-spot The meatpacking district is super fun. The atmosphere is electrifying! Off schedule spot Dinner in Nyhavn is the perfect spot to unwind. Liberty.co.uk
Uwe Maier Stuttgart UWE IS GENER AL MANAGER AND CO -FOUNDER OF BUNGALO, BEL ÉTAGE BY BUNGALOW AND BUNGALOW- GALLERY.COM Favourite shop Storm. I love the idea of a good multi-brand store, and this one has got a smart brand mix and nice details in the interior. Favourite Scandinavian brand The White Briefs. They do a good job with great high-end quality jersey basics added to a minimal design. I really like the pieces and wear them all the time. Favourite night-spot Café Victor's and Geist restaurant. Off schedule spot Kongens Have gardens in the centre for a good walk, and if you have time, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art north of Copenhagen. Bungalow-stuttgart.de
Jonas Dedié Stuttgart
German sales manager for Acne Favourite shop The new Acne store on Pilestræde is just amazing. The store concept is really unique and new. Definitely worth a visit! I also enjoy Illum Bolighus for its edit of furniture and interior design. Also for furniture and interiors, Hay just opened a new store, which has a large selection of Scandinavian design furniture as well as a wide range of nice little gadgets. Favourite Scandinavian brand It’s got be Acne. We have truly evolved from Scandinavian jeans brand into global fashion player. Acne reached a design standard that is beyond any other Scandinavian brand and can absolutely compete with fashion’s big guns. Favourite night-spot Café Victor – not a typical nightspot, but I’ve definitely had one of my best nights there. Amazing restaurant and if the crowd is up for it, there’s dancing till late. Off schedule spot The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is really worth a visit. Not only for their collection of contemporary art but also for the sculpture garden – which is right by the sea and just amazing. Acnestudios.com
PAGE 25 ⁄ 28
PAGE 26 ⁄ 28
THE last word
MEET Federico poletti words Frederik Bjerregaard
WORKING IN ONE OF THE WORLD’S GREATEST FASHION CITIES, MILAN, VOGUE ITALIA WRITER AND CURATOR FEDERICO POLETTI HAS FOLLOWED THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION SCENE CLOSELY SINCE THE LATE NINETIES. AS A JUDGE ON THE DESIGNERS' NEST PANEL AT VISION, HIS PANEL WILL DECIDE THE WINNER OF SCANDINAVIA’S MOST PRESTIGIOUS PRIZE FOR YOUNG DESIGN TALENT.
vogue.it
Why do you work in fashion? “In my opinion and experience fashion holds up a mirror to society. It’s an amazing tool for understanding how our cultural and social habits are evolving. It’s a perfect match between creativity applied to everyday life and business. I’m exactly like this, abstract and concrete at the same time.” What are you looking for when you’re scouting for new design talent? “I’m interested in a mix of creativity and vision with wearability and functionality. Otherwise fashion design becomes an exercise in style. I mean, sometimes it can be like this, and then fashion becomes closer to an art expression. But that’s another story.” HOW DOES SCANDINAVIAN DESIGN COMPARE TO OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD? “Scandinavia is a region with a strong design identity both in its sense of colour and shape – whereas the British fashion scene is characterised by its insight into prints. Scandinavian creativity needs to be discovered, since it is more subtle and discrete than others.” WHAT IS MORE IMPORTANT IN A YOUNG DESIGNER: AN INSTINCTIVE SENSE OF STYLE OR AN EYE FOR CURRENT TRENDS? OR DO YOU NEED BOTH? “More than a sense of style I think that young designers should have a strong and instinctive vision, which is the driving force to capture emerging trends.” ASIDE FROM PURE DESIGN SKILL, WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO MAKE IT IN THE FASHION BUSINESS THESE DAYS? “A keen eye for product is a key feature for a designer today. Consumers are more aware and look for quality with a good relationship between creativity and price.” YOU MUST HAVE SEEN PLENTY OF FASHION TRENDS COME AND GO OVER THE YEARS. WHAT, IN YOUR OPINION, IS THE ONE TREND THAT ALWAYS STAYS IN STYLE? “Does the word ‘trend’ still exist, I wonder? Or it is something overused, like other fashion words, like glamour. We’ve lost the meaning of many terms. I love this quote from the philosopher Arthur Schopenhauer: ‘The chief, and probably only, rule of style is having something to say. With this in mind you will go very far.’” ☺
FRESH TALENT
Here at VISION we put a great deal of effort into nurturing and supporting young designers to keep Danish fashion innovative and competitive. This season, we are showcasing work by the students from the design schools of Copenhagen and Kolding. Both schools have stalls at the fair and will be making an appearance on the new VISION show stage.
TVP ss13
JOIN THE DANISH HEINEKEN CLUB @ FACEBOOK.COM/HEINEKEN
DOWNLOAD HEINEKENS NYE APP
OG FÅ ADGANG TIL GRATIS MUSIK OG HEINEKEN SPECIALS
FLORA DANICA Bags +45 2172 0540 - tb@floradanicabags.com - www.floradanicabags.com