cosmetics EDUCATING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXpERTS www.cosmeticsmag.com
JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
PM NO. 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: Cosmetics Circulation Department, 7th Floor, One Mt. Pleasant Road, Toronto ON M4Y 2Y5.
makeover special:
New Tips for Eyes,Lips, Hair & Nails
Rihanna Unleashes Her Inner Rebel
Top 8
INDUSTRY TRENDS
Beauty Stars: Our 2011 COSA Winners
Claudia Schiffer *AC Nielsen – no.1 in $, since its launch, starting January 2010 to July 2nd 2011, amongst mass market brands in Canada. *Quotes obtained from a survey among 100 Canadian cosmeticians by Cosmetics magazine, July 2010.
CANADA’S #1 PRIMER* THANKS TO YOU.
“It truly is the best primer I have ever tried.” “Great product to wear on its own or under makeup.” “Makes your skin silky to the touch.”*
Skin looks smoothed
resurfaced.
Minimizes the look of pores
and fine lines.
Cover: Rihanna image courtesy Prestilux
One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M4Y 2Y5. Tel: 416-764-1664 Fax: 416-764-1704 www.cosmeticsmag.com EDITOR IN CHIEF Kristen Vinakmens 416-764-1680 kristen.vinakmens@cosmetics.rogers.com INTERIM ART DIRECTOR Sigrun Wister 416-764-1655 ASSOCIATE EDITOR Heather Marrin 416-764-1669 heather.marrin@rci.rogers.com
contents JANUARY / FEBRUARY 2012
News 10
Beauty Flash: Madge’s new scent, Michelle Yeoh for Guerlain, L’Oréal scoops up Clarisonic and more
11
Beauty News: Latest from Decléor & Clé de Peau
16
Beauty Finds: Valentine’s-inspired beauty
New lauNches 28
New Makeup/Skincare: The season’s best in beauty
72
New Scents: Scent-sational new fragrances
eXPeRT aDVIce 18
Ask a Doctor: Fighting wrinkles & loss of firmness
20
Ingredients 101: Centella asiatica
22
Ask a Trainer: Staying up when things are down
24
Haircare 101: How to keep coloured hair healthy
26
Selling to Men: Lab Series’s Richard Sawyer
38
Ask a Pro Makeup Artist: Andrea Claire on getting the “you-but-better” look
BusINess as usual 6
Editor’s Letter
125
Win This
124
Industry Calendar
126
Publisher’s Report
BeauTIFul PeOPle 76
In Memoriam: Remembering Evelyn Lauder
78
My Life in Beauty: Revlon’s Gucci Westman
122
Success Story: Shiseido beauty consultant Mariko Umebachi
123
Scene: A roundup of the latest industry events
FeaTuRe sTORIes 41
Makeover Special: Shake up your look with new tips for eyes, hair, skin and nails
46
How to: Expert tips for three eye looks
53
Trend Report: The top 8 trends shaping the beauty industry
70
Cover Story: Rihanna unleashes her inner rebel with a new scent
CONTRIBUTORS Andrea Claire, Doug Atkinson Liz Bruckner, Heather Buchan EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, COSMETICS & BEAUTY GROUP, PUBLISHER, COSMETICS MAGAZINE James R. Hicks 416-764-1664 jim.hicks@cosmetics.rogers.com EVENTS CO-ORDINATOR Ruth Taylor-Cox 416-764-1671 ruth.taylorcox@rci.rogers.com PRODUCTION MANAGER Karen Richards 416-764-1688 karen.richards@cosmetics.rogers.com CIRCULATION MANAGER Bibi Khan 416-764-1450 bibi.khan@rci.rogers.com Vol. 41, No. 6 January / February 2012 Published in August 2011. Cosmetics, established in 1972 is published 6 times per year by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc. Rogers Media Inc., President and CEO: Keith Pelley Rogers Publishing Limited, President and CEO: Ken Whyte Vice-Presidents: Immee Chee Wah, Patrick Renard Group Marketing Director: Karen Kelar Marketing & Promotions Associate: Jason Emata Marketing Communications Associate: Hazel Picco Marketing & Events Associate: Laura Carinci
We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Magazine Fund, toward our editorial costs. Cosmetics is published every two months for selected personnel in manufacturing, distributing, and retailing areas of the cosmetics, fragrance, toiletries and personal grooming, esthetics and related fields. All rights reserved. Contents may not be reproduced by any means, wholly or in part, without the written permission of the publisher. Subscriber Services: To subscribe, renew your subscription or to change your address or information, please visit us at www.rogersb2bmedia.com/cosm Mail Preferences: Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to reputable companies whose products or services may be of interest to you. If you do not want your name to be made available please contact us at rogers@ cstonecanada.com or update your profile at: www.rogersb2bmedia. com/cosm
Our environmental policy is available at www.rogerspublishing.ca/ environment Cosmetics receives unsolicited features and materials from time to time. Cosmetics, its affiliates and assignees may use, reproduce, publish, re-publish, distribute, store and archive such submissions in whole or in part in any form or medium whatsoever, without compensation of any sort. Publications Mail Agreement 40070230 Registration Number 222534 Periodicals Postage Paid at Toronto, Ontario. Contents copyright 2011 by Rogers Publishing Limited, a division of Rogers Media Inc.
RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: Cosmetics Circulation Department 8th Floor, One Mt Pleasant Road, Toronto, ON M4Y 2Y5 ISSN number: 01315-1301
sPecIal secTION 81
4
COSA Awards: We celebrate the industry’s best beauty advisors from coast to coast january 2012 COSMETICS
1000 members and growing!
We’ve given away over $16,500 worth of Coty prizes.
Visit the site today for your chance to win! PLUS:
Get the inside news and see new product launches before anyone else!
• Learn the best new training and selling tips. • See behind-the-scenes video from fragrance launches. …and much more.
How to join: Just visit the Cosmetics magazine site at www.cosmeticsmag.com and click on the COTY Club icon.
Simply register and you’re a member!
Editor’s letter
In With The New
I’m with Kim Cattrall at the 3rd annual P&G Beauty & Grooming Awards.
a passion for beauty. That’s what struck me most by the winners of the 2011 COSa awards, held last november in Toronto. as they walked up to the podium to accept their awards and deliver heartfelt speeches, I felt like we were kindred spirits – connected by our mutual excitement over makeup, skincare and fragrance and all the pleasure they bring. as a beauty editor and writer for the last four years (and a working journalist for more than 10), I’ve relished reporting from the beauty trenches: attending new product launches, directing beauty editorial photoshoots, interviewing experts and celebrities and going backstage at new york Fashion Week to witness world-class artists create makeup and hair trends before my eyes. One of the highlights of my career happened recently when I won the Best Beauty Editor award, which I shared with my former colleague at Flare, Wing Sze Tang, at the third annual P&G Beauty & Grooming awards. as I’m sure many of you can relate, it’s a great feeling to be recognized by your peers in the industry, especially when you truly love your job and have such a passion for it that it doesn’t really feel like work. and being presented the award by none other than actress Kim Cattrall (aka Sex and the City’s Samantha jones) was pretty amazing, too. One of the most fun parts of being a beauty editor is unwrapping the seemingly endless stream of bags and boxes filled with new beauty products that arrive at my office every day. I still get a thrill from discovering an immaculately packaged eye palette or the newest do-everything beauty cream or gadget. For a beauty editor, it truly is like Christmas every morning. I’m often asked for beauty advice: ‘What product will give my skin a glow?’, ‘What eyeshadow colours would work for me?’, ‘What’s your favourite facial treatment?’ (you know the drill). and I love nothing more than helping a friend or family member find the right product for them. When I really love a product, I can’t wait to share it with others or provide advice I’ve learned from the many great dermatologists, makeup and hair artists I’ve interviewed. I want to share that knowledge and passion with you, and learn from your own beauty expertise as well. With this, my first issue as the new Editor-in-Chief of Cosmetics, you’ll see a few changes here and there and over the coming months as we refresh the pages going into our 40th year. I want to bring you more of the beauty tips and how-to content you’ve been asking for, from the brightest beauty stars in the business. and because this is your magazine, I want to hear from you: what you’d like to see on the pages, who you’d like to read about and what stories would most excite and inform you. Drop me a line. I’d love to know what you think. Or follow me on Twitter for live updates from the latest beauty events, product launches and celebrity press junkets. yours in beauty,
6
www.cosmeticsmag.com
Photo: Vito Amati
Kristen Vinakmens Editor-in-Chief kristen.vinakmens@cosmetics.rogers.com @kvinakmens
january 2012 COSMETICS
Exclusively at
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What will be your pink? Christine Mann National Trainer - Bourjois Paris
BOURJOIS PARIS ROSE EXCLUSIF LIPGLOSS “An amazing clear lipgloss that self-adjusts into a unique and personalized pink when applied to the lips! Its non-sticky texture also brings shine and volume. It is enriched with vitamins E and C to provide 8 hours of moisture for maximum comfort. Oh la la!”
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Joan Nicholson The Bay Beauty Mentor
The Bay, Canada’s most appreciated beauty experts
THE BAY BEAUTY MENTOR
A
s Canada’s premiere beauty destination, The Bay understands the vital role beauty experts play in the Canadian beauty industry. Their passion, expertise and leadership are a key reason why customers develop loyalty to our stores. But starting a career in a beauty department can be overwhelming at
times. That’s why we’ve introduced a very special program called The Bay Beauty Mentor. We’ve scoured the country in search of the very finest beauty experts to share their expertise and advice. If you long to ask a question to someone who has made a successful career in a Bay beauty department, just send him or her an email. To learn more about pursuing a career in beauty at The Bay, visit www.hbc.com.
Joan Nicholson
Job title: Beauty Advisor, Lancome Store: The Bay, Windsor, ON Beauty experience: 26 years Email address: beautymentor@hbc.com
My greatest mentor: My secret to great customer service:
M
y mentor is 30 years my junior and everyday he impresses me with his impartial tial advice. Our cosmetics department manager, Tony Waque has a positive attitude that is contagious, which naturally makes a difference in the quality of service vice throughout the store. I’m eternally grateful for his support.
I
think it’s simple: Approach every customer with a smile, really listen to their needs and concerns, and then respectfully with the knowledge that you’ve gained from all of your product research, work together to find what’s right for them.
What I love most about working at The Bay:
I
have the opportunity to start each workday at a world-class store that carries exclusive lines and luxury brands. Not only that, I’m fortunate enough to work alongside a team of beauty advisors that not only offer daily support but also create the most enjoyable and fulfilling environment. What more could someone ask for? Feel free to reach out to me at any time, regardless
of the question. Email me at beautymentor@hbc.com.
Best advice I’ve ever received:
N
ever place judgment on a customer that walks through the door. Be sure to always treat everyone with equal consideration; they’ll forever surprise you and so will your sales results.
Beauty Flash
by Kristen Vinakmens
Beauty News & Buzz (For daily beauty news, visit: www.cosmeticsmag.com)
Guerlain Gets a Bond Girl Dipping its toes into the celebrity talent pool, luxury beauty brand Guerlain has named actress and former Bond Girl Michelle yeoh as its newest face. Best known for her butt-kicking role in Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, yeoh joins model natalia Vodianova, a longtime spokeswoman for the 183-year-old French fragrance house. While yeoh will be a global ambassador for Guerlain, she'll have a stronger presence in asia. “all my life, I've been attracted to people who work with a sense of integrity, and an endless search for quality,” said yeoh. “Guerlain represents these values and it is an honour to join this mythical brand.”
Brushing Up on Beauty Every day, it seems a new personal care ingredient comes into question, leading to consumer concerns such as the safety of parabens to whether there’s lead in lipstick. To better arm beauty advisors to address these issues, the Canadian Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance association (CCTFa) created the Beauty Specialist Certification Program (BSCP), a set of online courses with up-to-date information about the science and safety of personal care products. The courses cover everything from labeling standards to cosmetic ingredients and product testing. For more info, visit: BSCPCanada.ca
Madge Gets Her Own Scent
Perhaps the last celeb standing to launch a fragrance, music icon Madonna will bow her first-ever perfume with Coty Prestige in May 2012. Titled Truth or Dare by Madonna, the floral fragrance blends narcotic florals with woods and vanilla, evoking both darkness and light. The bottle also suggests duality with its classic shape and edgy, gold-studded topper. “I have always been obsessed with fragrance and wanted to create something personal but that other people could relate to,” she told Women's Wear Daily. “Something honest, and yet daring, hence the name Truth or Dare.”
The cult beauty skincare device Clarisonic has been scooped up by beauty giant L’Oréal. Launched in 2004, the oscillating skincare brush has steadily risen the ranks to become one of the hottest beauty brands on the market. “Devices are rapidly emerging globally as an important new skincare category,” said Frédéric rozé, President and CEO of L’Oréal uSa. We can't wait to see what skincare innovations this partnership will bring. 10
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: image of blonde woman, istockphoto
L’Oréal Nabs Clarisonic
Beauty News
From left: Decléor Life Radiance Double Radiance Scrub and Double Radiance Cream
ThE BrIghT SIdE Decléor shines a light on the eternal quest for a luminous glow
radiance is the new wrinkles,
according to Decléor founder Solange Dessimoulie. While there are many solutions for fine lines, from anti-aging creams to inoffice dermatologist treatments such as Botox and fillers, skin radiance, once its lost, is hard to recapture. “Women may have a smooth complexion and no wrinkles, but they’ve lost that radiance,” says Dessimoulie. “They say, ‘I used to have it, but I lost it.’ They want to bring light back to their skin.” It’s a concern that affects a growing number of women: according to Dessimoulie, 93% are concerned with skin dullness. But while fine lines and wrinkles are a direct result of aging, loss of radiance has more to do with our changing environment, pollution and lifestyle choices, she says. Enter Life radiance, a two-step regimen designed to bring the glow back to tired-looking skin by boosting its natural defences. The star product is the Double radiance Cream, $69, an airless, dual-chambered treatment that preserves the stability and potency of the active ingredients until you’re ready to use them. The white chamber houses a cream formula infused with soft-focus pigments to deliver immediate radiance, along with elemi oil to amp up microcirculation. The yellow chamber contains a gel formula containing Saro essential oil derived from a Madagascan shrub that acts as
january 2012 COSMETICS
by Kristen Vinakmens
an immune booster for skin, while plant prebiotics, in the form of beetroot and corn plant sugars, nourish the skin’s natural flora. Plant oils, omegas 3, 6 and 9 and moringa proteins further protect skin against pollution and work to bring long-lasting radiance. The Double radiance Scrub, $47, is also infused with elemi and saro oils and uses Egyptian luffa fibres, Madagascan cardamom seeds, and jojoba beads to gently slough away dull surface cells. While some women may think that a ramped-up exfoliation routine is the key to a youthful glow, Dessimoulie cautions against it. “Don’t exfoliate every day; it’s too much,” she says. “It changes the pH of your skin, which stimulates oil. The skin can’t find its balance because you’re always stripping it.” Dessimoulie says exfoliating once or twice a week is more than enough and you don’t need to increase the amount with age. “you don’t want to stress the skin; you must respect its own cellular renewal,” she says. “Too much scrubbing action will cause your skin to become sensitive.” The Life radiance regimen, which launches this month, is designed to be used in conjunction with Decléor’s famed aromaessence Essential Serum, which softens and helps hydrate skin on a daily basis, which, it turns out, is one of Dessimoulie’s beauty secrets. “The secret to beautiful skin? It needs to be constantly moisturized.”
www.cosmeticsmag.com
11
Beauty News
by Kristen Vinakmens
The packaging of the Luminizing Face Enhancer is like a jewel unto itself.
The Eye Color Quad in Antique Gold has subtle iridescence that lights up eyes.
Clé de Peau makeup artist Lucia Pieroni works her magic on actress Amanda Seyfried
Sweetness and Light for spring, clé de peau beauté is seeing the
light. Its spring makeup collection, crafted by make up creative director Lucia Pieroni, is all about achieving the ultimate in radiance. With a focus on skin, the star product of the line-up is the Luminizing Face Enhancer, $92, inspired by the ever-changing, pearlescent tones of the conch shell. “Shells lend inspiration to the female form, in terms of shape, texture and colour,” says Pieroni. “The smooth and shiny texture influenced me to want to get a similar look on the skin.” The Face Enhancer includes new “light-directing technology” which layers two types of illuminating pearls that refract light and radiate it at different strengths and angles, creating a sense of movement. The compact, which itself looks like a multi-faceted, shimmering jewel, is available in two shades: pastel, which downplays colour and creates a cool luminosity; and gold, which adds a touch of colour while creating a warm glow. Pieroni recommends using a soft blending brush to apply the powder on highlight points of the face where the sun would naturally hit. “Blend above the cheekbones and up over the temple and eyebrow, on the browbone, down the front of the nose, and on the cupid’s bow of the lips,” she says.
14
Drench lips with moisture with the Enriched Lip Luminizer.
Prior to makeup application, Pieroni suggests prepping the skin: “a radiant beauty look is first and foremost about beautiful, healthy, glowing skin,” she says. “Make sure skin is exfoliated and hydrated. Clé de Peau Beauté Clarifying Serum gently exfoliates skin and lips, while the Gentle Balancing Lotion is a perfect moisturizer base before foundation.” Pieroni recommends using the brand’s refining Fluid Foundation to perfect the skin. Even lips get the illuminating treatment this season with the Enriched Lip Luminizer, $48, a rich and lustrous lipstick. The formula features special oils designed to attract light and deliver maximum radiance. available in 20 shades inspired by indulgent desserts such as parfaits, toffees and melted chocolate, the Lip Luminizer drenches lips with moisturizing hydrowrap complex EX, and improves condition and fullness with continued use. For eyes, the Clé de Peau Beauté Eye Color Quad in antique Gold, $58, offers a new spin on the neutral brown palette, with translucent textures and an iridescent finish, which fits perfectly with Pieroni’s overall makeup message for spring: “It’s super simple and natural,” she says. “It’s all about healthy skin and a strong, groomed eyebrow.”
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Courtesy Shiseido
Clé de Peau Beauté makeup artist Lucia Pieroni envisions high-wattage radiance for spring
Shawn Hlowatzki Award Winning National Trainer Smashbox Cosmetics in Canada
Shawn’s Training Tips
PRIME, PERFECT, AND SET! PRIME
Hydrating Primer provides a drink for your skin while creating the perfect smooth, hydrated surface for foundation. APPLICATION TIP: Pop your bottle of Hydrating Primer into the refrigerator at night, and apply in the morning as the perfect under eye refresher.
PERFECT
Studio Skin is the perfect airbrush in a bottle. It’s a hydrating foundation with a matte finish that lasts for 15 hours, while actually improving skin moisture. APPLICATION TIP: Apply with a damp sponge when you want sheerer coverage.
SET
Photo Set Pressed Powder is our go-to product for complexion perfection. It creates a super smooth and lightweight finish while actually setting your makeup. APPLICATION TIP: Use a Photo Set that is one shade darker than your natural complexion as the perfect bronzer and contour color.
INSIDER SECRETS REVEALED
smashboxcanada.com
If your client has patchy dryness, such as under the eyes or around the nose, smooth on hydrating primer focusing on the problem areas prior to applying your regular primer to the rest of the face. Makeup will not only glide over the dry skin without leaving any texture issues, but will also leave the client’s skin instantly hydrated! A must-have for all dry or dry combination skins! Caleb Wessels SDM 2234- Cambie and 16th Vancouver BC
Beauty Finds
by Kristen Vinakmens
Transparent when applied, Bourjois Rose Exclusif Lip Gloss, $20, responds to the pH of your lips and transforms into your perfect shade of glossy pink. Available now
Sweet Nothings Fall in love with Valentine’sinspired beauty
Inspired by the ethereal hues of the setting sun, Blush Horizon de Chanel, $74, offers five shades in one palette to create multi-tonal or singlecolour rosy cheeks. Available February
Get that just-fallen-in-love flush with Physicians Formula Glow & Mood Boosting Blush in Pink & Warm, $16, which highlights, contours and adds radiance with light-reflecting pearls. Available now
Swirl your brush into the pink, peach and rose shades of Stila Love at First Blush Palette, $16, for soft, angelic cheeks. Available now Choose your lipstick mood with the super-hydrating Lancôme Rouge in Love Lipstick in 163M, 351B and 170N, $30 each, which offers shades ranging from super-sheer to intensely pigmented. Available mid-February
Play the coquette and lacquer your nails with Chanel Le Vernis in May, $27, a pretty pastel pink. Available February
L’Oréal Paris Colour Riche Lip Liner in Always Red, $11, is infused with natural oils for a soft, kissable and uber-sexy red pout. Available now
16
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
INNOVATION
BB CRE AM DOES IT ALL FOR YOU, INSTANTLY !
8 1 IN
MULTI- BENEFITS
DOES IT ALL FOR YOUR SKIN: 1 - Evens out skin tone 2 - Offers immediate and long-term hydrating benefits 3 - Protects from premature aging and environmental stresses
FOR ALL AGES FOR ALL SKIN TYPES HYPO-ALLERGENIC
100% PERFUME FREE
100% PARABEN FREE
100% OIL FREE
NON-COMEDOGENIC
DERMATOLOGIST TESTED
THE ULTIMATE SKIN ENHANCER Especially formulated for Canadian women. Offered in 2 shades with self-adjusting pigments:
4 - Promotes skin regeneration 5 - Controls shine 6 - Soothes and calms 7 - Reduces the appearance of imperfections
LIGHT TO MEDIUM
MEDIUM TO DARK
8 - Provides anti-dull radiant complexion
WHERE DOES BB CREAM COME FROM ? BB Cream originated in Germany to correct post-surgery skin; the trend towards flawless skin spread throughout Asia where the product became a multi-benefit skin care and complexion corrector all-in-one.
BB
= BE AUT Y BALM
BB CREAM VS TINTED MOISTURIZER BB Cream is much more than a tinted moisturizer.
HOW TO USE BB CREAM ? Marcelle BB Cream is a day cream which should be applied after the skin has been properly cleansed, and can replace or complement these products from your daily routine: •
Moisturizer
•
Tinted Corrector
•
Make-up Base
BB Cream can be worn alone, or for a more intense moisture surge, it may be applied after your moisturizer. You can also use it under your foundation for total coverage and improved stay-on power.
TINTED MOISTURIZER
BB CREAM
Evens out skin tone
•
•
Hydrating
•
•
Reduces appearance of imperfections
•
•
Anti-dull complexion
•
•
Tinted
•
•
Benefits
WHAT ARE THE KEY INGREDIENTS? Hyaluronic Acid › Improves skin elasticity, helps minimize wrinkles, hydrates. Aquaxyl › Moisturizes & helps correct skin imperfections Vitamin E › Antioxidant to protect skin Aloe Vera › Soothes & hydrates Green Tea & Camomile › Strengthens, reinvigorates & calms skin Soft Focus Powders › Light-reflecting, enhance complexion
Protects skin from premature aging
•
Promotes skin regeneration
•
Controls shine
•
Soothes and calms
•
AVAILABLE EARLY
FEBRUARY 2012
Ask a Doctor: Q&A with Dr. Lista
ucts. This is accomplished by altering the molecule size of the delivery agent of the serum. What active ingredients should someone look for in a serum to combat wrinkles and loss of firmness?
Most serums use a variety of active ingredients to improve skin quality. Some serums use peptides to deliver active ingredients deep within the skin where they will be most effective. a peptide is part of a protein molecule that is well absorbed by the skin and therefore increases its penetration. Peptides also stimulate the skin to repair itself. as we age, we lose collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin, which causes loss of firmness and elasticity. Elastin and collagen are proteins which are composed of long chains of amino acids. Elastin and collagen are lost by a process of degradation which breaks down these long protein chains into shorter subunits called peptides. These short peptides are a signal to our skin to manufacture more collagen and elastin. When a skincare product delivers peptides into the skin, the skin responds by creating more collagen and elastin. How effective are plant and botanical extracts in the fight against wrinkles and loss of firmness?
What causes wrinkles and loss of firmness in the skin?
a major cause of wrinkles is the repeated folding of the skin caused by underlying muscles. Excess movement of small facial muscles causes the skin to fold over and over again and a permanent line forms at the site of the fold. When combined with a loss of collagen and thinning of the dermis, a permanent wrinkle develops. Loss of firmness is a result of a loss of thickness and a decrease in elasticity. as the skin ages, it becomes less elastic and starts to thin. This progressive thinning makes the skin look less full and not as firm. When should you add a serum to your skincare routine and why?
a serum is a skin care product designed to deliver active ingredients deep within the skin. Serums are formulated to address a particular problem, such as acne breakouts or discoloured spots, and therefore contain active ingredients to help correct those problems. your type of skin problem will determine the serum you need to use: serums designed to treat acne contain different ingredients than those formulated to treat brown spots. Secondly, serums are usually designed to penetrate the skin more deeply than other prod18
Do you have any application tips when it comes to serums to get the most out of them?
The goal should be to use your serum every day but this may not be possible at first. When you first start using a serum, the active ingredients may come as a surprise to your skin. So starting a serum slowly will help your skin get used to the active ingredients. at first, two or three days a week may be enough. The ultimate goal is to work up the tolerance of your skin so that you can use the serum every day. The serum should be applied after any other active treatment (such as a toner) and before your moisturizer. Dr. Frank Lista, M.D., F.R.S.C.S., plastic surgeon, is the founder and medical director of The Plastic Surgery Clinic, theplasticsurgeryclinic.com, which has created the Miracle 10 line of clinical anti-aging skincare products. For more info, visit: miracle10.com
www.cosmeticsmag.com
January 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: istockphoto
Serum Savvy
Botanicals and plant extracts have many active ingredients that can help improve skin quality. The best example is alpha hydroxy acids, which are derived from natural sources. Malic acid can be extracted from apples or pears. Citric acid is obtained from oranges and lemons. Tartaric acid is found in grapes. These extracts have a molecular size small enough to penetrate the skin. Once they have penetrated the skin, they act to weaken the molecular bonds that form the cement between cells. This allows dead cells to slough off more readily, which stimulates skin to make new skin cells, giving skin a healthy, line-free appearance.
& ADVICE NE W
LIF TACT I V SERUM 10 :
T H E U LT I M AT E A N T I-AG I N G POW ER , SU I TA B L E E V EN FO R S EN S I T I V E S K I N 1. I SEE Deep wrinkles, fine lines and a loss of firmness on the face and the neck.
2. I QUESTION About concerns: • Are you concerned about wrinkles? • Are you searching for an instant and long-lasting lifting effect? About benefits: • Would you like to try a potent serum adapted and tested on sensitive skin to boost your anti-aging routine? About textures: • Would you like to try a serum that will smooth instantly your skin? A serum with an ultra-light velvety texture?
3. I EXPLAIN At a certain age skin experiences “chronological aging”. This occurs due to the slowdown of the cellular activity in the Derm Source, also known as the papillary dermis. The Derm Source is the layer of the skin that acts as its youth engine: when it functions properly, it sends signals to all surrounding skin layers, prompting them to regenerate. When its activity slows down, the entire skin begins to age. Therefore, for an optimal anti-aging efficacy, it is important to target the Derm Source directly. Vichy Laboratories identified and patented a natural ingredient called Rhamnose, concentrated at 5% , clinically proven to directly target the Derm Source for superior results on wrinkles and firmness.
4. I ADVISE: LIFTACTIV SERUM 10 Imagine the strength of 10% Rhamnose, combined to Hyaluronic Acid, concentrated in a serum, the only formula capable to protect and maximize its potential in your skin. Liftactiv Serum 10 is hypoallergenic and tested on 100% sensitive skin: thanks to 10% Rhamnose (soothing) and Vichy Thermal Spa Water (soothing, fortifying and regenerating).
1 drop, 10 min: +32% softer skin -10% of wrinkles BEFORE
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
1 month: Skin is transformed, like new. Long lasting lifting effect.
The ideal compliment to Liftactiv Derm Source products or any other anti-aging routine.
Ingredients 101
by Heather Marrin
Natural Wonder A look at the latest power plant, centella asiatica
From top: Centella asiatica may look like your average house plant, but it boasts major healing properties for the skin; Origins A Perfect World Antioxidant Moisturizer with White Tea uses centella asiatica to help firm skin.
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furry creature, but if you typed it into Google, you’d find that it’s actually a plant that has a never-ending list of healing properties. Known in the botanical world as centella asiatica, this plant has a deep-rooted history in ancient Chinese medicinal tradition. Commonly found in South africa, India, China and Pakistan, gotu kola is a member of the parsley family and has no taste or smell. While it blooms pink flowers, the beauty of the plant lies in its stems and leaves. used for centuries to treat ailments as varied as stomach ulcers, mental fatigue, fever and asthma, it has proven to be more than a one-hit-wonder. With this long lineage of curative properties, it comes as no surprise that leaders in dermatological skincare have started to include it in a number of their products to strengthen and firm the skin. “Centella asiatica is rich in asiaticoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acids; these ingredients help stimulate the production of collagen 1,” says beauty chemist ni’Kita Wilson, which is a vital part of any skincare routine designed to combat signs of aging. just to refresh, collagen is a group of naturally occurring proteins and is the main component of skin. By increasing the metabolism rate of connective tissue, Wilson says, “Centella asiatica helps firm the skin and decrease the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.” The plant also contains chemicals called triterpenoids. Studies suggest that these chemicals boost antioxidants in wounds, and increase blood supply to affected areas. For these reasons, centella asiatica is found not only in products formulated to combat signs of aging, but is now in everything from daily cleansers to lip balms such as Maybelline Baby Lips. If you don’t believe us, the next time you’re browsing the shelves of your local beauty counter, check the ingredient listings and uncover this potent botanical. www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo of plant: Shutterstock
gotu kola may sound like a friendly
Thank you Katherine We are proud to have you as part of the Clarins team in Canada.
Katherine MacMillan, Sales Representative Clarins Canada, Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
It’s no surprise to us that you are being rewarded for providing great customer service to our retail partners...we’ve known it all along.
Keep up the great work.
Ask a trainer
by Doug Atkinson
tact, open body language, a genuine “Hello” and an engaging smile? no customer wants to deal with an associate who appears bothered. uSE STraTEgIC SEllIng
Fulfill the need using a three price-point approach. Let’s say the customer needs a day crème SPF 15. Present three crèmes that meet the client’s desires at a low, medium and high price-point. apply your knowledge to describe the features and benefits of each. as you’re doing this, keep an eye on the customer’s body language and facial expressions. If they’re resistant to a price or brand, they will tense their shoulders, tighten their jaw muscles or narrow or widen their eyes. Watch these signs to see how your service is being enjoyed. gIvE ClIEnT affIrMaTIOn
Let the customer make her choice. Watch what she reaches for and confirm that her choice is a wise one. Celebrate her actions by saying: “Excellent choice. I’m sure you will be very satisfied with the results” or “This is a wonderful product and such a good value for the price.” add valuE
How to service your client in trying times
“i’m just looking!” is a phrase you’re probably hearing a lot more lately. But what does it really mean? Either the client is ‘just looking,’ or they’re carefully considering how they’re going to spend their dollars. (according to the Conference Board of Canada, consumer confidence dropped to its lowest level in two and a half years, putting us close to 2009 recessionary levels.) In a time of uncertainty, it’s especially important to reinforce the concept of service before, during and after the sale–even if you don’t make the sale at all. So how do you keep the dollars coming in when your clients are scared to spend? Pricing strategies and loyalty programs help, but what really drives repeat customers is not saving fifty cents on the mascara but experiencing impeccable service. refocus on customer service by changing your delivery and expectations. all great performances are rehearsed; consider your store as the stage. COnnECT wITh yOur CuSTOMEr
Welcome your client and try to determine, through relevant questioning, what they’re looking for. Consider the following: When you meet your customer, are you fully engaged in the moment? Did you greet the customer with full eye con22
ask the customer whether they have any other needs. address this as you did before, using your three price-point script, close the sale according to your retailer’s guidelines and offer to client file her. Include a relevant sample and explain why you have given it. you will find this has much more impact for the customer and will increase the productivity of your vendor sampling initiatives as well. your lines could be like this: “I am so glad I was able to help you today and I hope you are completely satisfied with the products we chose ‘together’. I’m including a product sample that I’ve found my clients like you enjoy. I am also including my card so you can contact me at any time.” nO SalE? nO wOrrIES
you still have an excellent opportunity. acknowledge that the purchase will not be today: “I understand that you’re exploring opportunities today. Let me write down what we talked about on your file so when you come in again I will be ready for you. Would you like a copy as well?” When you approach the situation this way, you make the customer feel good about what has transpired, and not guilty about wasting your time. We’ve all seen Pretty Woman; imagine if the salesperson had rehearsed different lines. With 25 years of experience in the cosmetics business, Doug Atkinson is one of Canada’s most respected trainers. Doug brings a unique perspective to the business of selling and promoting cosmetics that comes from relationships with vendors and retailers in all classes of the trade.
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: istockphoto
Staying up when things are down
INTRODUCING SHISEIDO EXPERT REVIEWS: A PRODUCT TRIAL 140 YEARS IN THE MAKING!
To celebrate our 140th anniversary in 2012, Shiseido will be offering an exclusive opportunity to Canadian beauty consultants through Cosmetics Magazine all year long. Shiseido trusts your expertise. In each issue, you’ll be invited to write in for your chance to be one of 140 lucky beauty consultants selected to test and review a signature Shiseido product!
Here’s what beauty consultants had to say about Shiseido Shimmering Rouge lipstick, our first giveaway of the year:
THE SHIMMERING ROUGE EXPERIENCE... “Simply beautiful. The texture was perfection, and the deep and instant moisturization felt like I was drenching my lips in silk! Definitely a must have.”
“Shimmering Rouge lipstick has a nice smooth feeling and it has a nice sheen and shimmer—not glittery or chunky.” “The texture was smooth and luxurious and the colour was beautiful and showed up nicely against my natural lip colour.”
“The appearance was radiant.” “One of the best lipsticks I’ve worn.”
“I would definitely recommend! Loved it the first time I tried it!”
The first 140 beauty experts that contact us will receive a full sized Eudermine product to try. To receive your product send an e-mail to: cosmeticsmag@cosmetics.rogers.com or fax Cosmetics magazine at 416-764-1704 and indicate “Shiseido Eudermine” in the subject line.
Haircare 101
by Heather Marrin
Colour Me Healthy Clairol expert Frauke Neuser decodes which hair colour ingredients lead to healthier looking locks colouring kit, you’re well-acquainted with the post-wash feeling of soft, silky hair. But that isn’t always the case for those who colour regularly, since excessive use of hair dyes can lead to dry and damaged-looking hair. Clairol’s global scientific communications director for hair colour, Frauke neuser, explains the science behind hair colour ingredients and uncovers solutions to your common colouring woes.
What are the ingredients used in hair colour that can cause the hair to feel dry after hair colouring?
The colourant ingredients affecting the hair’s structure and feel are hydrogen peroxide and ammonia (or whatever ammonia substitute is used, such as MEa). The ammonia is needed to raise the pH of hair to swell it and allow the other colour ingredients to penetrate. The peroxide is used to remove some of the existing colour and form the new colour deep inside the hair fibre. 24
If someone is a regular user of at-home hair colour, what ingredients should they look for when trying to avoid dry and damaged hair?
you can’t really avoid peroxide and ammonia (or MEa) if you want to use a permanent colour; without those two, you won’t be able to achieve the desired colour results. you can either try a less permanent colour (such as a semi-permanent, which lasts up to 8 washes, or a demi-permanent, which lasts up to 24 washes) which contain no or lower concentrations of these ingredients. They also deliver less permanent results, lower gray coverage and less dramatic changes. If you do stick with a permanent colourant, try one that uses antioxidants to control the chemical reactions that can lead to dryness. always use a specific aftercolour conditioner [usually included in the hair colour box] to help close down and seal the hair surface. They not only help to avoid a dry and damaged look and feel, but also slow down colour fade. www.cosmeticsmag.com
How do these antioxidant ingredients work to add moisture to the hair?
antioxidants, like glycine, or EDDS and vitamins, [usually listed on the back of the hair colour box], help to control the chemical reactions that can lead to dryness. These reactions are partly caused by so-called free radicals –very reactive oxygen species. antioxidants deactivate the radicals and have been shown to reduce damage to hair as a side reaction of the colouring process. Conditioning ingredients (in the colourant itself and the post-colour conditioner) work by enveloping the hair surface to mimic the natural lipid layer of hair that is lost during colouring. What steps should one take post-colouring to ensure hair looks healthy?
always use tailored care products for coloured hair. also, avoid heat styling at very high temperatures (e.g. from, straightening irons) as this has been shown to accelerate colour fade. january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: istockphoto
if you’ve ever used an at-home
EXPECT BRILLIANCE FROM YOUR BRUNETTE. brilliant BRUNETTE
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Liquid Shine optimizes light reflection for high-gloss finish. Olive oil and silk-infused formula delivers brilliant sheen. Illuminates tones and accentuates highlights. Enriches your brunette’s multidimensional colour.
JOHN FRIEDA Expect Perfect. ®
johnfrieda.ca
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Selling to Men
by Kristen Vinakmens
A Simple Plan Lab Series’s resident grooming guru Richard Sawyer on getting men interested in skincare
on the men’s grooming scene, Lab Series Skincare for Men was launched by aramis in 1987. Since then, the science and innovation-driven skincare brand, focused on a simple Cleanse-ShaveTreat approach, has grown to reach more than 35 countries and territories worldwide. Lab Series seeks to educate men through its website (labseries. com), which offers how-to videos and content with grooming tips and information on product ingredients and their benefits. We picked the brain of richard Sawyer, international education director and Lab Series lifestyle expert, for advice on reaching the everelusive male consumer.
How do men and women differ as consumers?
Men often buy very logically. If they can see a benefit, then cost will not always be seen as an obstacle, as the value of any benefits can outweigh the price tag. When it comes to shopping for skincare, how do men and women differ?
I’ve worked in men’s grooming for 12 years and with Lab Series for eight years.
Many men seem to do research online first before they venture out to the store to see the product. They are also incredibly loyal to a brand once they have found one they like. The first purchase may be in-store but replenishment could often be made online. This could be because it’s easier to buy online or that cosmetic stores are still a little intimidating to men.
How is the men’s market performing in your opinion?
What changes have you seen in the way men shop for grooming
How long have you worked in the men’s grooming business and with Lab Series?
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products over the last ten to 15 years?
Men used to just grab a deodorant and a razor and not generally linger too long in the stores. now, men seem to browse the shelves more, pick up items and read the boxes. They still might not necessarily buy a lot of products, but they seem more open to investigating what’s available. Have men become savvier shoppers? If so, what has influenced this trend?
I don’t think it’s about being savvier just yet. Men are still in the early stages of adopting skincare and grooming routines. I think they’re more open to ideas and seeing what’s out there. But there is still a certain amount of trial and error when they buy products. What are some key factors to consider when selling to men?
Most men prefer quick and easy routines. I believe that you need to keep the message very clear and simple to enable men to feel comfortable talking about their grooming needs and to discover what their needs are. They enjoy facts and information in words and phrases that speak to them as men and answers their questions in a logical fashion.
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: courtesy of Lab Series Skincare for Men
an early player
The men’s grooming market is growing incredibly fast. new brands are launching and existing women’s lines are adding men’s products as line extensions to their product mix. Mass brands have also entered the market strongly over the last five years. These brands spend a lot of money on advertising, which helps to educate men on all aspects of grooming and that it’s now acceptable to use skincare products. Men’s health, fitness and lifestyle magazines also advocate skincare and grooming as essentials. This in turn helps men feel good about using and seeking out products specifically targeted to them.
Sears Canada would like to pay tribute to the life and legacy of
Evelyn H. Lauder
A woman whose life touched so many. Her vision, contributions, and unwavering commitment to helping others will inspire always.
New Makeup
by Heather Marrin
Maybelline Color Tattoo Shadows Striving for the ultimate bold statement in colour? Maybelline’s Color Tattoo is a new cream-gel eyeshadow that uses new-ink technology to provide vibrant colour and crease-proof, 24-hour wear. Available in 10 on-trend hues. $8.99. In Store: Already available
Bobbi Brown Neon & Nudes Collection The modern way to wear brights? Pairing pop-art hues with neutrals. Brown’s sheer, popsicle-coloured glosses, eyepopping electric blue and violet shadows and neon fuchsia and orange lippies are paired with a wear-with-everything Ultra Nude Eye Palette, which mixes champagne, stone grey and cocoa shadows for a natural finish. $38-$52.
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EA
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In Store: January
Giorgio Armani Spring Collection Soft pastels and gold lustre are a must-have in your beauty bag this spring. Get the look with Giorgio Armani’s latest eye palettes that present a harmony of soft spring hues from yellowygold to lavender and copper accented with silver ($70). The collection also offers a range of Gloss d’Armani lip glosses ($36). In Store: March
Find endless ways to bring out your inner starlet with Smashbox’s spring collection. With the Be Legendary lipsticks that come in both cream and matte shades ($22), the eye shadow palette comprised of eight blendable hues ($51), and the Show Biz creamy cheek trio ($33), you can create all the drama you need for your Hollywood debut.
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Like a cool breeze, the latest Eye Quartet Mineral Palette ($42) offers four shades to create an icy-blue smoky eye. Warm up your look with the liquid Instant Light Blush ($28), or the pin-wheel-embossed Face Palette ($40), with peach, bronze and pink powders. In Store: February
Smashbox Be Discovered Collection
In Store: January 24
Clarins Colour Breeze Collection
Revlon ColorBurst Lip Butter Prime your lips for Valentine’s Day with these tinted, lusciously rich lip butters. With hydrating mango, Shea, and coconut butter, the formula boots lip moisture by 156%. With medium coverage, a high shine finish and a soft vanilla scent, these sweetlynamed shades offer the perfect pout. $9.50. In Store: Already available
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
New Makeup
Quo 90-Degree Mascara
Dior Garden Party Collection While we patiently await April showers to bring May flowers, Dior offers up a beautiful bouquet to tide us over. The scented nail lacquers Forget-Me-Not and Waterlily ($24), in shades of violet and minty-green, the 5-Couleurs “Garden Edition” eyeshadow palettes with botanical-hued shadows embossed with flowers ($60), and the Pretty-Rose Ultra-Gloss ($31), are the perfect way to cure any winter blues. In Store: January 15
For those firm believers that no lash should go untouched, Quo has created a brush that, with the push of the wand, transforms into a 90-degree angle. This new mascara reaches every corner and crevice of your eyes to coat every last lash. $15 In Store: Already available
Clinique Almost Lipstick Clinique expands its popular Almost Lipstick line with a range of natural nudes, pinks, reds and violets, all named after the famed Black Honey launched in 1971. The sheer, smooth formula uses customfit technology to create a unique shade that provides barely-there colour. $18.
Anna Sui Double Lip Gloss Get multi-dimensional lips with these limited edition dual-ended glosses. Wear the bright shades on their own or layer with the shimmery side to create three different looks with just one gloss. $28. In Store: February
In Store: Already available
Guerlain Spring Colour Collection Florals inspire the latest makeup offering from Guerlain. Météorites Cruel Gardénia, an iridescent highlighting powder embossed with rose petals and available in four shades, is ideal for adding a touch of light to the face, while the new Rouge G lipsticks and KissKiss glosses come in a range of pinks, from soft rose to intense fuchsia. $35-$76.
Tarte Maracuja Blush & Glow Brightening Luminizer and Cheek Tint If your winter skin has lost its glow, Tarte has just the ticket to turn your complexion around. This two-in-one tube offers a natural cheek tint, plus an illuminating serum infused with brightening maracuja oil. Ideal for highlighting and contouring, the glow and brightening system is available in three shimmering shades. $42. In Store: Already available
In Store: January 15
january 2012 COSMETICS
www.cosmeticsmag.com
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New Makeup
Butter London Spring Polishes Estée Lauder Topaz Pure Color Spring 2012 For Topaz, Tom Pecheux, Estée Lauder creative makeup director, was inspired by the sun-drenched tones of the desert. The Topaz Mosaic Eyeshadow Palette features taupe and sand dune shades, while the bronze Illuminating Powder Gelée adds warmth to skin. Bright pops of colour come courtesy of bright teal Kajal eyeliner and nail lacquer. $25 to $48.50.
Butter London’s spring nail shade statement calls for pops of 80’s-neon colours tempered by sherbet pastels and cool neutrals. Try opting for a bright teal or an opaque pistachio green. $17. In Store: Already available
In Store: Already available
Stila In the Garden Eye Shadow Palette
Make Up For Ever La Bohème Collection If you’re feeling retro, turn to La Bohème, inspired by the romantic and carefree spirit of the 1970’s. Highlights include six soft floral-hued, baked eyeshadows that can be applied wet or dry ($45), and two new limited edition lipsticks ($22), for a sheer pop of colour to complete any look.
Find your green thumb with this array of botanical-inspired eyeshadows. Each palette comes with an eight-page look book with how-to tips and tricks, along with an exclusive shade of Smudge Stick Waterproof Eye Liner. $50.
In Store: February
In Store: Mid January
Bourjois Shadow & Light Kohl and Contour Pencil
YSL Candy Face Collection
Armed with a double tip, the Shadow & Light pencil has a dark and a light end for versatile results. The dark and matte shade defines and intensifies, while the light shade catches the light and opens up your eyes. The eye pencil also offers up to 16 hours of wear, is suitable for sensitive eyes, and comes in three different shade duos. $18.
Looking for a way to satiate your love of sweets without adding calories? Indulge in YSL’s candy-coloured collection. Highlights from YSL international makeup artist Lloyd Simmonds’s spring look include the Ombres 5 Lumières palette of bright rainbow shadows ($74), Duo Manucure Couture nail lacquers in shades of rich brown and mint green ($32), and Golden Gloss in violet fuchsia ($40).
In Store: Already available
In Store: February
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january 2012 COSMETICS
Congratulations Joy and Noreen Your superior customer service is an inspiration to us all!
Joy McDonald The Bay, Clinique counter Winnipeg MB
Noreen Romao The Bay, EstĂŠe Lauder counter Toronto ON
The entire team at EstĂŠe Lauder and Clinique salute your success. Great service is the foundation for our brands... keep up the great work.
New Skincare
Shiseido Eudermine Revitalizing Essence First launched in 1897, Shiseido’s “Red Water” has maintained its place in beauty cabinets for more than a century. As Shiseido celebrates its 140th anniversary, the brand continues its tradition of combatting dull, dry skin by widening its distribution of this revitalizing serum designed for all skin types. $78/125ml. In Store: Already available
Biotherm Aquasource Nuit
Estée Lauder CyberWhite Brillant Cells This new brightening system incorporates glucosamine-licorice blend to whisk away dull cells, vitamin C to boost collagen, osmolytes to balance moisture levels and the natural sugar N acetyl glucosamine to target melanindarkened skin. The line consists of a Brightening Cleanser ($45), Brightening Moisture Lotion ($60), Brightening Serum ($110), and Brightening Moisture Crème ($75). In Store: February
NeoStrata Men
Need an easy, overnight solution for healthy, hydrated skin? Biotherm’s new nighttime moisturizer features P. Antarctica extract, a glycoprotein that produces a protective, water-retaining barrier. Coupled with moisturizing mannose and thermal plankton water, skin is replenished by morning. $48. In Store: February
Since no woman actually wants to “share” their skincare products, NeoStrata offers a solution: An easy-to-use skincare regimen, specifically designed for men. The line consists of four products that can be used together, day or night: Gel Cleanser ($26.75), Soothing Moisturizer ($29), Eye Contour Anti-Aging Gel ($32), and Anti-Aging Cream ($47). In Store: February
Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Première Intense Moisture and Renewal Collection
Weleda One-Step Cleanser & Toner
Comprised of an Activation Cream SPF 30 ($110), Overnight Regeneration Cream ($114) and a Regeneration Eye Cream ($82), this skincare line is formulated for women 50+. The creams deliver ceramides, sea minerals and retinols that even out skin tone, diminish fine lines and deeply nourish skin.
Cleanse and tone in one step? Sign us up. If you’re looking to simplify facial care, Weleda’s One-Step cleanser and Toner deep cleans with natural olive oil soap and tones with witch hazel extract. It even removes makeup, and its citrus fragrance will revive your senses. $24/100ml.
In Store: Already available
In Store: Already available
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january 2012 COSMETICS
HYDRABIO RICHE Hydro-generating action
The only deep and long lasting hydration generator
+43%
rise in hydration after 7 days
100 cosmeticians tried it. 91 % were satisfied. 95% would recommend it. “YES, YES, YES YES!!! I was pleasantly s surprised by the light texture even e though it is a rich formula.” formula
“It is perfect ffor those who have dry skin but more dehydrated.” “Great felt dewy all day! No tightness.”
BIOLOGY AT THE SERVICE OF DERMATOLOGY
“This is an excellent product for people with sensitive, dehydrated skin. Nice mild fragrance, hydrating and not expensive.”
“I love the texture. It sank right in and didn’t leave my face with a greasy feeling.”
“My skin felt soft but not greasy.”
“Very hydrating, itt lasts all day.”
“My skin felt very soft and moisturized.”
Quotes obtained www.prestilux.com from a survey among 100 Canadian Cosmeticians by Cosmetics magazine, September/October 2011
“My skin did feel eel mmediately.” moisturized immediately.” Distributed ib d b by:
New Skincare
Clarins Extra Firming Day & Night Clarins revamps its best-selling Extra Firming creams with formulas that reinforce the links between skin’s overall structure. The day cream ($85) uses organic green banana to help fight skin slackening, while the night cream ($88) promotes renewal with survixyl IS, a peptide that prolongs the life of stem cells in the epidermis.
MAC Mineralize Skincare MAC forays into skincare with a line that boasts ionized-charged water technology. It includes a water cleanser, ($27.50), that gently removes makeup, a rich and creamy moisture gel, ($44.50), and a water moisture eye cream, ($42), to help reduce dark circles and puffiness. For head-to-toe skincare, try the face and body lotion ($38.50).
In Store: February
In Store: January 5
Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution
Neutrogena Naturals Neutrogena enters the natural skincare category with a line of products that are 90% natural in origin and contain bionutrients that provide a gentle and effective solution to common skincare concerns. The line includes a Purifying Facial Cleanser ($11.99/177ml), a Purifying Pore Scrub ($11.99/118ml) and a Fresh Cleansing + Makeup Remover ($11.99/177ml).
Using the latest generation of vitamin C derivative, activated C, white birch and peony extracts, Kiehl’s has developed a dark spot solution to promote youthful clarity while addressing discolouration and hyperpigmentation. Activated C breaks up existing melanin clusters, treating existing pigmentation, while also inhibiting the formation of new melanin. $54/30ml.
In Store: February
In Store: February
Strivectin Get Even Brightening Serum This highly potent serum is ideal for those looking for more radiant, even-toned skin. Featuring NIA114™, (niacin in the form of nicotinic acid), this serum targets the triggers of hyperpigmentation to help normalize the transfer of pigments. Antioxidant vitamin C brightens and combats melanin production, while willowbark extract increases cell turnover. $99. In Store: February 2012
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RoC Sublime Energy Skin-Smoothing Anti-Age Primer It’s a sad fact that over time, the body’s cell renewal process slows down, stalling the production of collagen and elastin, which leads to fine lines and wrinkles. To combat signs of aging, RoC has formulated a primer with E-PULSE, a micro-current technology to enhance the look of your makeup while helping you look younger. $38/30ml. In Store: Already available
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Congratulations Danny!
Passionate – professional – enthusiastic – knowledgeable – inspiring – fun – personable. These are all words used to describe your dedication for our brands.
Danny you are truly motivational. From the entire BPI & Shiseido team.
New Skincare
Bioré Combination Skin Balancing Cleanser Offering a solution to women that have both oily and dry skin, (a common result of repeated late nights followed by early mornings), Bioré launches a new skin balancing cleanser. The cleanser targets problem-causing dirt and impurities without disrupting the skin’s natural moisture levels. $9.99. In Store: February
Lise Watier Cosmétiques joined forces with a team of researchers from the Université du Québec a Chicoutimi to develop three new products with antiaging properties using antioxidant-rich Labrador tea extract. The trio consists of Crystal Day Elixir ($45/15ml), La Crème ($78/50ml), and Black Night Elixir ($45/15ml). In Store: Late January
Clinique Moisture Surge Intense Skin Fortifying Hydrator
L’Occitane En Provence Ultra Gentle Moisturizer
The latest addition to the Moisture Surge line is a rich cream-gel infused with olive squalane (a natural skin hydrator), glycerin and aloe leaf juice designed to provide maximum hydration. Cholesterol and linoleic acid help to strengthen the moisture barrier, leaving skin comfortably plump for up to 24 hours. $43.
L’Occitane launches four products with a new Shea concentrate rich in reparative and protective esters. The new formulas include Ultra Rich Face Cream ($46, 50ml), Ultra Gentle Moisturizer ($42/50ml), Protective Cream SPF 20 ($46, 50ml), and Ultra Gentle Cleansing Milk ($25/200ml).
In Store: January
In Store: Already available
Bioderma Atoderm
Rodial Dragon’s Blood
Winter brings dry skin, and Bioderma’s latest addition to the Atoderm line, Atoderm Nutritive, is a daily facial crème for very parched, weakened skin. Using a natural D.A.F complex, it reconstructs the cutaneous barrier, and protects the skin from future dryness. $25/40ml. In Store: Already available
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Lise Watier Age Control Supreme
By forming a unique second skin-like film, this antiaging gel helps define facial contours, plump sagging skin, and firm the jawline and cheekbones. For best results, it is recommended that the gel (which should be massaged until absorbed into the skin) be used both morning and night for at least 28 days. $75/50ml. In Store: Already available
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
COngrAtulAtiOnS to our 2011 Shoppers Drug Mart COSA Winners
Shoppers Drug Mart Team, Truro, Nova Scotia
Betty Desmone, Shoppers Drug Mart, Abbotsford British Columbia
Kelly O’Brien, Shoppers Drug Mart, Brampton, Ontario
Adrianne Semple, Shoppers Drug Mart, Thunder Bay, Ontario
Ask a Makeup Pro
by Andrea Claire
NaTural SElECTION
Flawless Skin
On spring 2012 runways, fresh-faced, natural beauty reigned supreme. Clean skin, soft, peachy cheeks and neutral eyes and lips evoked a carefree, timeless elegance. But getting that “you-but-better-look” takes a little more effort than merely swiping on bronzer and heading out the door. Here, makeup pro Andrea Claire shares her tips and tricks for a naturally flawless look.
Start with a foundation primer to create a smooth barrier for long-lasting foundation. Apply a colour-correcting primer in a green tone to cancel out any redness.
When it comes to natural-looking skin, the goal is to look lit-fromwithin perfect while letting your skin’s natural texture show through.
Use a liquid foundation with silicone, which will glide onto the skin. Apply a quarter-sized amount with a foundation brush to get an airbrushed quality. Start your application from the centre of your face and blend out using a light stippling motion. Apply concealer after foundation so you won’t be tempted to use too much. For best results, apply four dots slightly spaced apart under the eyes and then pat to blend (versus using a sweeping motion) with a synthetic bristle brush.
Lightly dust on a finishing powder but avoid applying under the eyes, which can settle into fine lines and accentuate them, adding years to your face.
TIP: Makeup is best applied in direct, natural light. Overhead lighting makes you try to remove shadows that aren’t actually there, resulting in heavy-handed application.
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january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Model and makeup images courtesy MAC Cosmetics
Use a light-reflecting eye brightener for stubborn under-eye circles and bags. Layer eye brightener on top of your concealer using the same application technique as your concealer.
Ask a Makeup Pro
Bright eyes
Enhance and define your eyes with nude-toned shadows and subtle liner. Prep your eyes from lashline to browbone with an eye primer. This step will set the stage for a flawless eye that won’t crepe or crease. Instantly waken tired eyes by applying a light, shimmery cream eyeshadow to your lids; its reflective quality catches the light. Choose neutral colours close in hue to your skin tone such as champagne, beige, peach, taupe or mocha. Shade your crease with an eyeshadow that’s one to two shades darker than your skin tone. Apply with your eyes open, following the bone in your eye socket (half-way between the lashline and browbone). Use a dome–shaped brush for easy shading.
TIP: For hard to curl lashes; heat up your lash curler with your blowdryer for a few seconds. Using your blow-dryer transforms your lash curler into a curling iron which adds instant bend to stubborn lashes.
INSIDER TRICK: If you don’t have a well-defined crease, you can fake one: for deep-set eyes, apply shadow above your socket bone to make eyelids look larger. To make lids appear smaller, apply slightly below the bone.
Apply a thin line of gel eyeliner – (which adds definition without smudging and looks more natural) — in black or dark brown to the upper lashline only. Use a bent liner brush at the lashline and dot liner in between lashes for more impact. Swipe on a champagne eyeshadow to the inner eye corners. It’s an instant eye-opening trick that flatters everyone. Choose your mascara shade according to your haircolour: Use black for medium to dark hair and dark brown for light to medium hair. Curl lashes, then apply your chosen mascara shade.
DOWN TO EARTH The MAC, Naturally makeup collection (in stores January 5) offers a lush array of Mineralize Skin Finish powders and blushes, lipglasses, lipsticks and eyeshadows in shades ranging from peachy-pink to beige, nude and soft brown — perfect for creating that undone look that makes people think you woke up looking naturally radiant.
Rosy cheeks
Fake a sunkissed-glow – even in the doldrums of winter – with these quick tricks.
INSIDER TRICK: If you’re using a cream blush, apply it after your foundation and before your setting powder. Otherwise, it may pill and streak.
Define your cheekbones by applying bronzer that’s two shades darker than your skin tone just to your cheek hollows. To find your hollows, suck in your cheeks and apply the contour shade just under your cheekbone.
Blend a pinky/coral blush starting two to three finger widths away from the sides of your nose and below your eye socket. As for choosing shades, never go too pink or too coral; think fresh flush—that rosy glow you get after a long run outside.
january 2012 COSMETICS
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Singapore-based Andrea Claire is a seasoned makeup artist and hairstylist with extensive print, runway, and television makeover experience. andreaclaire.onsugar.com
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Makeover special
Project
maKeoVer
Photo: image courtesy NARS
It’s a New Year, and there’s no better time to add a little lustre to a tired beauty routine. Here, top industry experts weigh in on how to revamp your look from your lips to your tips. bY KrIsteN VINaKmeNs
january 2012 COSMETICS
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Makeover Special
by Author Name
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Dare to Wear Bright Makeup
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he spring makeup collections have arrived and they’re definitely not for wallflowers. Take François nars’s spring makeup collection: neutrals form the core of the offerings, but it’s the rich brights in fuchsia and electric blue that steal the show and provide welcome pops of colour. Wearing such saturated hues in the real world can be intimidating, but with tips from james Boehmer, global director of artistry for narS, anyone can brave the bold end of the makeup colour spectrum.
Ace your base
First, prep skin to create a perfect canvas; apply primer and foundation and pat on concealer only where it’s needed. But go easy on the bronzer and blush. “Skin looks best when it is translucent and clean, regardless of what the makeup finish is that you’re working with. Skin is always the key element to beautiful makeup,” says Boehmer. 42
“When focusing stronger colour on the eyes or lips, go for a beautiful look that has depth and shape rather than a lot of colour – too much bronzer or blush will compete with the desired focus of your makeup.” For a strong eye look, prime lids to give the colour something to hold on to. Boehmer recommends narS Smudge Proof Eyeshadow Base to keep cream or powder shadows and liners looking fresh and crease-free all day. “I always apply narS Concealer to the eyelid (after the eyeshadow base) and set with translucent loose powder before applying colour,” he adds.
Going for bold
a general rule of thumb when wearing strong makeup hues? “Pick one feature and really go all the way with it,” says Boehmer. “a strong lip looks the most chic and effortless if it’s paired with a softer yet defined eye. On the other hand, bold, dramatic eyes look best www.cosmeticsmag.com
when paired with a softer, paler lip.” But, he adds, makeup should be fun and some rules are made to be broken. “Makeup shouldn’t be limited to a lot of rules – it’s okay to break them sometimes.” Try experimenting with colour to see what works for you. “you should always wear colour that you’re attracted to,” says Boehmer. “If you feel timid about wearing colour, you probably won’t go for rich or bright shades.” But for the timid, the key is in the application. “remember to blend. Think about layering and building colour as you apply. This will allow you to control the intensity.” use your fingers to create a soft wash of colour, or, try a slick of vivid yet precisely applied eyeliner as opposed to covering the whole eye in bright blue shadow. So what’s the key to making bold makeup look modern? “It’s always about balance, and subverting something that is classic.” january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Courtesy NARS
Colour your world The stars of the NARS Spring 2012 collection (in stores February) include the candy-pink ‘Gaiety’ Blush; the lustrous, hot-pink Mexican Rose Velvet Gloss Lip Pencil; the vivid navy blue ‘Dark Rite’ Soft Touch Eyeshadow Pencil; and the shimmering violet Nail Polish ‘Diamond Life’.
Makeover special
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Revamp your Hair Colour
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t tends to happen every year at around this time: your haircolour is looking dull and lifeless, wreaking havoc on an already sun-deprived complexion. “around january, people complain about how flat their haircolour looks,” says Luis Pacheco, colourist and Clairol spokesperson. “you start missing the sun and skin tones are also a little paler.” Switching up your hair hue is one of the simplest ways to change your beauty look and breathe life into lacklustre locks. Whether you go bold with unexpected colour or just change it up a few shades, here’s how to give your haircolour an overhaul.
Tone it up
Photo: Courtesy Kevin Murphy
Changing your haircolour needn’t be drastic to yield big results. Pacheco suggests tweaking haircolour tone, rather than going lighter or darker, to bring warmth to the hair. He recommends using a demi-permanent gloss such as Clairol natural Instincts, an ammoniafree colour that puts shine and tone back into the hair. For brunettes and redheads, Pacheco recommends auburn-toned glosses, while blondes should opt for golden tones. “In the wintertime, go with auburns and golds, because that’s what the hair is lacking,” he says. and while it may be tempting to go for highlights to get that lost sun-kissed look, Pacheco says rich base colours are more on-trend. “We’re seeing more solid tones as opposed to the highlighting effect, less of an extreme ombré, and more of a natural fade,” he says. “I think that we’re moving towards more of an organic look – people are more familiar with their skin tones and what colours best suit january 2012 COSMETICS
them. Sometimes you hear that red is the new hot colour, but realistically speaking, not everybody can pull off red or platinum blonde.”
Quick-change artist
For the more daring, rainbow hair colour hues are also cropping up for spring. at runway shows such as Thakoon, narciso rodriguez and Peter Som, hair was streaked and saturated with candy pink, powder blue and peachy-orange hues. an easy, and non-committal way to get the look: Kevin. Murphy’s Color.Bug, a super-pigmented, temporary colour powder that comes in vivid orange, purple and pink and washes out after one use. “Color.Bug is ideal because you might want coloured hair on Friday, but may not necessarily want the colour come Monday,” says Kevin Murphy, stylist and founder of Kevin.Murphy. “I was originally inspired by the women in India, who wear powder in their hair. Orange powder, specifically, is put in their hair when they get married. I loved the idea of having a dramatic, fun effect with no commitment or big investment – colour changes your whole look!” Murphy gives these tips for using Color.Bug: Prep hair with hairspray (for more natural colour) or texturizing cream (for more intense colour) to act as an adhesive for the powder. next, rub Color. Bug onto product-treated hair. “Think of it like makeup,” says Murphy. “apply your foundation (in this case, hair product) and lock it in with the powder (in this case, Color.Bug).” after applying, give hair a quick blowdry to remove any excess powder. and voilà: a new you, if only for a night.
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3
Get a Youthful Glow
Prep School
First rule of glow club: dewy skin starts with well-hydrated skin. Choose a moisturizer for your skin type: if you’re on the dry side, opt for an emollient cream, and if you tend to be oilier, go for something oil-free. “From your moisturizer alone, you can achieve a lot of natural radiance,” says Spiga.
Base Camp
When it comes to foundation, less is more. “If you’re overbuilding or wearing formulas that are too thick, it can mask the skin,” she says. Spiga recommends Lancôme’s Teint Miracle Foundation, which contains less powdery fillers than some other formulas but still unifies skin. alternatively, she suggests using a tinted moisturizer to avoid a heavy effect. as for application, whether you use a sponge or a brush, wet your tool first and squeeze out excess water before dabbing into your foundation. “your sponge will absorb less product and your makeup will look more natural,” she says. Start applying foundation to the centre of your face and blend outwards. “a lot of women feel they need to put foundation all over their face, but you only need it in areas that need evening out,” says Spiga. “Start with a small, pearl-sized amount. you can always add more – but it’s a lot harder to take away.” Make sure your foundation is an exact shade match to both your face and neck. 44
Covert operation
Spiga suggests applying concealer after doing the complexion since, “foundation does a lot of the work.” use it only where you need it: for dark circles, apply product from the inside corner to only the middle of the eye, and never to the outer corner. Spiga favours using small taps with an applicator brush as opposed to fingertips, which can lead to overapplication. Be sure to match the concealer to your skin tone, as going too light can create a “reverse-racoon” effect.
Ready, set
apply setting powder only to zones where you don’t want shine: in between the eyebrows, from the inside corner of your eye down to the nose, and the chin. “The other areas will naturally look more highlighted because there’s a natural glow coming through,” she says.
Light show
Highlighter is the star product to achieve inner radiance. Spiga recommends using mica-free highlighters, since mica can create a sparkly, artificial effect. apply a powder or liquid highlighter to the areas you want to create more light: the browbone, cheekbones, the nose, and the cupid’s bow.
Blush hour
Opt for a cream blush for the most dewy flush. If you’re using powder blush, Spiga suggests first stippling a blush brush in to a liquid highlighter before dusting on powder blush. To get the most glowy look, apply a soft wash of colour on the upper cheekbone. “The area you catch more light is the upper cheekbone and blush looks more natural there,” she says.
www.cosmeticsmag.com
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Veer
O
n the runways of Preen and Versace spring 2012, models sported dewy complexions that looked lit-from-within. While these models clearly have good genes, their looks can easily be recreated with strategic makeup tricks. Lancôme official makeup artist Lora Spiga walks through the steps to getting a radiant complexion.
Makeover special
I
f the spring runway shows were any indication, our love affair with nail art is still going strong. at the new york shows, designers such as jen Kao and nicole Miller showcased embellished talons that almost stole the show(s). But you don’t need a designer nail guru to get amazing nails; revlon nail expert Leeanne Colley gives the DIy lowdown on switching up your basic mani with fun new techniques.
Shadow play
at jen Kao, CnD manicurists used an airbrush tool to give the models dangerously chic, ombré nails in black and green and black and blue. Colley says recreating this seemingly complex nail look is extremely easy: “Paint the entire nail blue or green first on all ten nails,” she says. “Then, put a blob of black polish at the cuticle area, and, using a brush from a bottle of clear topcoat, grab the black polish and pull it down the nail to give it that airbrushed effect.”
4
Let your nails shine
Game on
Pop-art manis were de rigueur at nicole Miller, where models sported hot pink and blue checkerboard-patterned nails. Colley suggests placing manicure guides on your nails to get perfect lines or using a striping brush, found in nail art kits. “Draw lines onto the nails using acrylic paints or lacquers, wait for your guide to dry, and fill in those areas with the other colours,” she says. Or if you feel like a nail pro, try swiping on a colour on one half of the nail and do the other half in your secondary colour. Then, create the checkerboard effect by covering off the upper and lower corners with the opposite nail colour.
Over the moon
The half-moon manicure – where the crescents are painted a different shade than the rest of the nail – has become a perennial classic. This style is also very easy to create at home, says Colley, although she admits that it can be timeconsuming. If you’re doing a two-toned nail, “you have to wait for one layer to dry before you can put manicure guides on it.” First, paint your entire nail in one solid shade, which will be your “moon” colour. Wait for it to dry for twenty minutes to half an hour, then apply paper hole reinforcements or manicure guides to create your crescent shape. “Lightly tap it on or it will get stuck to the polish,” says Colley. Then, apply two coats of your base colour from the guide on up. Try a nude or beige, which are spring’s “it” colours. Wait for it to dry and then apply your topcoat. Photo: Courtesy CND
Magic marker
a nail art pen is an easy way to change up a basic manicure in a flash, says Colley. “use a pen and draw a black tip on the nail, or polka dots,” she says. “you don’t have to create dots all over the nail; and they don’t have to be the same on every nail. you can change it up from one nail to the next.” january 2012 COSMETICS
www.cosmeticsmag.com
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How to: Eyes
by Liz Bruckner
Eye Drama Put the spotlight on eyes with our how-tos for dramatic brows, perfect cat eyes and amped-up lashes
for spring, runway designers requested simple makeup, but the looks were statement-making. Bold, architectural, full brows that channeled Brooke Shields circa 1980 were in demand at jil Sander and Derek Lam. Intense, non-tapering cat’s eyes reminiscent of 60s-era stars Liz Taylor and Twiggy turned heads at Dolce & Gabbana and ruffian. and at Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu, impossibly long, lush, doll-like lashes evocative of, well, dolls, were an overtly feminine touch that couldn’t be missed. While it’s no wonder that these looks made it big this year, it’s the variation on these iconic trends that’s most intriguing. Brows were heavy and at times fringe-like, cat eyes were thick and brooding in one show, while thin and vibrantly-shaded in another, and lashes were as high-impact and piece-y on upper lashes as they were on the bottom. With each of these areas earning the spotlight in their own right, we asked three beauty experts for the lowdown on how to recreate these distinct looks. Here’s how anyone can make their eyes come on strong. 46
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january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Courtesy Shu Uemura
False lashes give eyes immediate wow factor
How to: Eyes
The Cat’s Meow
Left: The legendary Shu Uemura Eyelash Curler, $24, is a go-to for makeup artists
A
Fringe Benefits
T
o create exaggerated, doll-like lashes, start by laying the foundation with black or brown painting liner. Apply it generously into the lashline with a sable-haired brush to distribute colour between lashes, says Patricia Lee, official makeup artist for Shu Uemura. As you look in the mirror, tilt your head back and, with eyelash curler in hand, place it as close to your lashline as possible. Squeeze and hold the curler in place for a few seconds, move it down your lashes slightly and repeat until you reach the tips. Then, apply your mascara as close to the lashline as you can. “Wiggle the wand back and forth until you reach the ends of your lashes,” says Lee. Then, “add two to three coats to your upper lashes, and to avoid smudges, add a bit of loose powder under your eyes to absorb excess oil.” For major drama, false lashes are the way to go. When going the falsies route, always measure lash length first. “You want them to be a little shorter than your real lashes, with about one millimetre of space between the inner eye corner and the falsies,” says Lee, “or it will feel like the band is poking you in the eye.” To trim artificial lashes, cut from the inner corner and keep snips tiny to avoid mishaps. Once you’re satisfied with the length, take a minute to curl your natural lashes to ensure they blend well with the artificial versions. Next, using a toothpick for precision, dab lash glue lightly and evenly to the base of lashes – wait 10 to 15 seconds for it to get tacky – before placing them. “Watch yourself in the mirror as you centre lashes over your lashline. Hover them just above your lashes until they’re where you want them, then use the tweezers to gently press the ends on to the base of your lashline,” says Lee. The glue will take a few seconds to dry, so now’s the time to make any necessary adjustments. For a longer-lash solution, Lee sings the praises of eyelash growth serums, which are touted to support natural lash growth, rebuild hairs to make them longer and stronger, and protect lashes overall. JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
From left: NARS Larger Than Life Eyeliner Pencil, in Via Veneto, $25; Revlon ColorStay Creme Gel Eye Liner, $10.95
www.cosmeticsmag.com
n updated version of the retro-inspired look, a precisely-lined cat’s eye is glamour personified. The key: Lots of practice. Start by prepping the eyelid and undereye area with primer, concealer and powder to set and hold eye makeup in place, says James Boehmer, global director of artistry for NARS. Next, decide which type of liner to use based on your skill level – those worried about flubs or an unsteady hand are best off practicing with a flat brush and wet shadow, Boehmer says, while old pros can stick with liquid versions. When you’re ready, look down at a mirror and draw a line along your lashes from the centre of your eye to its outer edge. Keep your eye open and relaxed as you extend the line, and as you look straight into the mirror, either make the cat’s-eye flick or curve up from the bottom outside corner of the eye. To create a precise flick, use the natural slope of the outer corner of your bottom lashline as a guide to create your “wing.” Once you’re happy with the effect, go back and make a slightly thinner line from the center of your eye to the inner corner. “The line should gradually get thicker as it moves to the outer corner, but how thick you make it is entirely up to you,” Boehmer says. When you’ve created the shape and width you’re after, add a layer of NARS Larger Than Life Long Wear Eyeliner Pencil to amp up the look’s intensity. What to do with the lower lid? Boehmer typically focuses liner up top and adds simple finishing touches of mascara and highlighting powder to the inner corner of the eye. But should you choose to split the focus and head down under, lining the bottom lashline “can create the difference in character from Sophia Loren to Brigitte Bardot.” Bardot’s look was all about lining both top and bottom lashlines, with a bit of a smudgy, bedroom-eyes effect. A final tip: use the right tools. A small, precise brush will keep colour on the lash line rather than under it. 47
How to: Eyes
Model Liu Wen backstage at the Derek Lam spring 2012 show
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s the centrepiece of your face, brows can make or break your look. “Brows are such an important feature, and regardless of trends, they should always be shaped according to your bone structure so they balance and bring proportion to your face,” says anastasia Soare, a Beverly Hills-based brow expert. To create your perfect pair, tame any unruliness with a brow brush, and then tweeze away any wayward strands. From there, apply brow pencil sparingly to fill in sparse areas – or try Soare’s Brow Enhancing Serum advanced for a long-term fix that encourages brow hair growth – and make sure to choose the appropriate shade for your brow hair hue. “Brunettes can use pencils two shades lighter than their brow colour, blondes can go two shades darker and redheads can use shades designed for dark and light redheads,” she says. Once brows have been penciled in, apply a light dusting of shade-matching powder on top, gently blend the two products with a brow brush and brush hairs into place. For brows prone to curling, use a brush-on gel to hold hairs in place and set the colour, she says, and finish with a swipe of highlighter on the browbone to illuminate the area. For your best shape, follow this formula: “Brows should begin around the middle of the nostrils, end at the outside edge of the eyes, and the arch should sit just above the middle of your iris.” use a brow pencil or brush dipped in brow powder to mark your guiding points; Soare says using a stencil to connect these marked areas is an easy way 48
to craft them, but for those without stencils, use a brow pencil to rough in and join the areas. For those with bushier brows, take the conservative route. “use the same formula as above, but this time you should also draw a line below brow hairs that need to be removed,” she says. “Pluck rows of hair one at a time and check your progress in a mirror as you go. Taking it step by step minimizes the chances of too-drastic changes.” For those with very full brows that require a trim, consider visiting a professional for a brow shaping. When it comes to tweezing, choose slanted tweezers with a thin blade for maximum precision. Soare also suggests resting your pinky finger on your face to ensure control when plucking, and for least painful results, pluck post-shower, since the warm water opens the hair follicles, making them easier to remove. Finally, keep tweezing sessions to once a week and be mindful of the pluck-and-check method. “remove one row of hair at a time as you alternate eyebrows. If you don’t go back and forth, you’re more likely to remove too many hairs on one brow and be left having to match an over-tweezed brow.”
www.cosmeticsmag.com
Clockwise from top left: Anastasia Brow Powder Duo, $29; Estée Lauder Automatic Brow Pencil Duo, $32.50; Anastasia Brow Enhancing Serum Advanced, $45
january 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: model image courtesy of Estée Lauder
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AWARDS 2012
Nominate a great service provider. If you know a cosmetician, beauty advisor, demonstrator, fragrance advisor, trainer or Vendor sales rep, nominate them today. Teams are also eligible in both Department stores and Drug stores. There are 17 categories
Each winner receives $1,000 Cash plus much more Nomination deadline: FRIDAY JUNE 15, 2012
COSA
AwArds 2012
OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS CATEGORIES FOR: ENTRY DEADLINE: June 15, 2012
1 2
THE COSA DRUGSTORE TEAM AWARD
3
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD IN A DRUGSTORE
Presented to the team that best works together to provide superior customer service.
THE COSA DEPARTMENT / SPECIALITY STORE TEAM AWARD
Presented to the team that best works together to provide superior customer service.
Presented in recognition for best service in a drugstore with 25 years or more industry experience. PEER / VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
4
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
10
BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE
11 12
BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE
13
BEST SERVICE FOR A PART-TIME ASSOCIATE
Presented in recognition for best service in a department store or speciality store with 25 years or more industry experience. PEER /
5 6 7 8 9
Presented in recognition for best service in a drugstore with two years or less experience. PEER / VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
ROOKIE OF THE YEAR IN A DEPARTMENT STORE Presented in recognition for best service in a department store with two years or less experience. PEER / VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE
14
BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALITY STORE
15
Presented in recognition for the best service provided in a drugstore. RETAILER NOMINATED
Presented in recognition for best service provided in a department or specialty store. VENDOR NOMINATED
Presented in recognition for outstanding service given by a part-time cosmetician, beauty advisor or fragrance advisor in a drugstore or department store. PEER / VENDOR /
BEST SERVICE FOR A FRAGRANCE ADVISOR IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
Presented in recognition for best service for a fragrance advisor in a department store. PEER / VENDOR /
BEST SERVICE FOR A DEMONSTRATOR IN A DRUGSTORE / DEPARTMENT STORE
Presented in recognition for best service for a fragrance advisor in a department store. PEER NOMINATED /
VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
16
Presented in recognition for best service provided in a department or specialty store. PEER NOMINATED
BEST SERVICE IN A DRUGSTORE
BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT OR SPECIALTY STORE
RETAILER NOMINATED
Presented in recognition for best service provided in a drugstore. PEER NOMINATED
Presented in recognition for best service provided in a drugstore. VENDOR NOMINATED
RETAILER NOMINATED
VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
ROOKIE OF THE YEAR IN A DRUGSTORE
Presented in recognition for best service provided in a department or specialty store. RETAILER NOMINATED
BEST SERVICE FOR A TRAINER DRUGSTORE / DEPARTMENT STORE
Presented in recognition for best trainer for cosmeticians, beauty advisors or fragrance advisors in a drugstore or department store. PEER NOMINATED / VENDOR / RETAILER NOMINATED
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BEST SERVICE FOR A VENDOR SALES REPRESENTATIVE
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COSMETICIAN NOMINATED
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The STaTe of BeauTy The Top 8 TRends shaping The BeauTy indusTRy by Kristen Vinakmens If 2010 sales are any IndIcatIon, thIngs are lookIng up for the beauty Industry. Worldwide, beauty and personal care product sales boasted 5% growth overall, versus 4% in 2009, according to market research firm Euromonitor International. In both the u.S. and Canada, overall beauty product sales jumped by 2% in 2010. Mass market sales spurred most of the recovery, but premium cosmetics showed the most remarkable growth, jumping to 3% after a 0.5% decline in 2009. In the u.S., sales of premium cosmetics outperformed mass cosmetics. “We’re seeing growth despite the fact that consumer confidence has never come back up completely since before the recession,” says Karen Grant, senior global beauty industry analyst for new yorkbased market research firm nPD Group. “The spending we’re seeing is not just beauty – it’s across other women’s industries that are more indulgent or fun such
as footwear, accessories and handbags. It seems that consumers are looking at these things as a way to escape. If you’re in it for the long haul, you start to recognize that you’re going to need to treat yourself along the way.” Most beauty categories that suffered in 2009 returned to growth in 2010. Fragrances, for example, rose to 6% in 2010, up from 3% in 2009, driven by innovation and overall higher spending in north america. Colour cosmetics saw the same jump in sales in 2010, going from 3% in 2009 to 6%, with sales returning to pre-recession levels. The biggest increases were seen in smaller categories such as deodorant and baby care, which each jumped to 8%; and in men’s grooming, which saw a 7% rise, owing to the category’s rising popularity. Skincare and haircare also recovered in 2010, with both showing a growth of 5% versus the previous year. Euromonitor predicts that skincare will become the
biggest and fastest-growing category and will exceed uS$101 billion by 2015 and account for 23% of the entire beauty and personal care category. “The skincare category tends to be the one where the consumer is least likely to cut back,” says Grant. “It has the advantage of being considered a necessity – to forestall anti-aging issues. all women are looking at it as a method of prevention or correction and the manufacturing community is doing a lot to offer products that address a broader range of needs.” Meanwhile, more people are buying beauty products online, with Internet retail rising by 16% in 2010, adding uS$2 billion in sales. “More consumers are shopping online, but even if they’re not buying online, they’re researching and looking for endorsement from friends and the general public,” says Grant. “They’re making more careful choices, with a lot more judgement.” .... Read on for theTop 8 Trends
Photo: istockphoto
january 2012 COSMETICS
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TRENDS > Nail Innovation
SHOW OF HANDS FROM THE RUNWAY TO THE REAL WORLD, WE’VE GONE CRAZY FOR NAILS
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A model at the Missoni spring 2012 show wears custom Minx nails inspired by the fabric and colours of the Missoni collection.
as Rihanna, Beyoncé and Lady Gaga soon caught on to the trend, sporting gold and silver foils, fishnet and houndstooth patterns. Some took the nail art trend even further, with celebrity manicurists creating 3-D effects by affixing Swarovski crystals, pearls and jewels to nails. The runways followed suit, and celebrity nail artist Marian Newman collaborated with Minx to create designs for fashion shows such as Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. Meanwhile, nail artist Sophy Robson crafted quirky nail art at shows www.cosmeticsmag.com
such as Giles, where she painted googly eyes over sorbet lacquer for the spring 2011 show and Dalmatian-dotted nails at Topshop Unique’s fall 2011 show. And at New York Fashion Week, the last few seasons have seen designs as diverse as “tuxedo”-patterned nails, reverse manicures and diamanté-encrusted nails. Nails have become an accessory, and the demand for more accessible alternatives to Minx and expensive salon visits has trickled down to the mass category. With the desire for more inventive designs and JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Becky Maynes, courtesy Minx Nails
Every season, the nail-obsessed anxiously await the latest nail offerings from Chanel, the penultimate of chic, and the authority on the “It” nail shade of the season. For spring, it’s likely to be “Attraction,” the pearly-white shade models wore on designer Karl Lagerfeld’s under-the-sea-themed runway. But it’s not just Chanel addicts that have gone crazy for nails: You need only look at the decorated talons of red-carpet celebrities to see that we’ve all become a bit nail-obsessed. And the numbers back it up: While the category is still relatively small, nail enamel sales are up 59% in the U.S., according to market research firm NPD Group. Our love affair with nails can be traced back to 2008 and the arrival of Minx Nails, flexible polymers that are heatcured to nails at a salon and come in custom or ready-made designs. Celebs such
TRENDS > Nail Innovation
Clockwise from top left: Broadway Nails ImPress line of Press-on Nails in leopard-print and marbleized patterns; Essie Luxeffects topcoats impart a little – (or a lot) – of shimmer over lacquered nails; Revlon ColorStay Longwear Nail Enamel is comparable to the salon gel manicure
longer-wear, the press-on manicure has staged a comeback. Brands such as Sally Hansen introduced its Salon Effects Real Nail Polish Strips in early 2011, which offer fashion-forward designs in a peeland-apply format with no dry time. The strips last up to 10 days and remove with polish remover. Sephora also launched its answer to Minx with Sephora by OPI Chic Print for Nails – precut nail patches in checkerboard, tiger-print and star designs and last for up to two days. In December, Broadway Nails launched the ImPress Press-on Manicure ($7 to $9) – a range of pressure-sensitive adhesives available in 18 colours and 18 patterns. They press on and peel off and offer one week of wear. The longest-wearing nail lacquers used to be available only at the salon via services such as CND’s Shellac and OPI’s Axxium, which use UV light to cure lacquer or gel JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
to the nail and last up to two weeks. But the gel manicure, or at least a comparable version, has also made its way to the drugstore level with the December launch of Revlon ColorStay Longwear Nail Enamel, $8.95. Inspired by salon gel nails, the nail enamel applies like regular polish (base coat, two coats of colour and top coat) but offers gel-like shine and up to 11 days of wear. Leeanne Colley, Revlon nail expert, says ColorStay has a light-curable resin in the polish which enables it to cure under any type of light and gives a gel-like finish. While salon gel manicures require a return visit to the salon for removal, (up to 15 minutes of soak-off time), ColorStay removes with regular nail polish remover. “ColorStay doesn’t require professional service,” says Colley. “It’s something you can apply on your own and still have the same effect as going to a salon to have gel www.cosmeticsmag.com
applied to your nails.” But even regular nail polish has undergone a makeover. Prestige polish brand Deborah Lippmann has made a name for crafting polishes incorporating sequins and glitter, imparting three-dimensional effects on the nail. Meanwhile, salon brand Essie introduces its Luxeffects line this month – textured topcoats infused with shimmer and pearl shapes (from sheer opalescence to gilded lamé paillettes and pink diamond glitz) that can be layered over regular polish to create customized looks. So what’s driving our lust for lacquer? “Consumers are indulging,” says Karen Grant, senior global beauty industry analyst for the NPD Group. “[Nail lacquers] aren’t super-expensive expenditures. It’s a way to stay on-trend, have some fun and treat yourself without feeling like you’re breaking the bank.” 55
TRENDS > Long-Lasting Products
LONGER, BETTER, FASTER THE LATEST BEAUTY AND GROOMING PRODUCTS ARE IN IT FOR THE LONG HAUL From top: Maybelline’s new SuperStay lipcolours boast 10- and 14-hour wear; CoverGirl’s LashBlast 24HR Mascara is waterproof and oil-resistant; Secret Outlast antiperspirant goes the extra mile, promising 48 hours of odour and wetness protection.
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In the world of beauty products, out of all the benefits women want, two surface to the top: quick results and long wear. The latter is the focus of a slew of new beauty launches that promise more product mileage than ever before. While we’ve seen 24-hour lipsticks and body creams, never it seems have so many landed all at once. And one offers the pinnacle of lasting power: 48 hour-wear. That honour goes to the new Secret Outlast deodorant, $5.50, which lands in stores in February. P&G Beauty’s weapon in the fight against sweat? Dual Action Odour Technology – odour-absorbing microcapsules. “The microcapsules are activated by moisture – before you even start to move – as it’s formulated to continually work to detect odour and wetness,” says Dr. Rolanda Johnson Wilkerson, P&G Beauty senior scientist. “Odour and wetness are captured, absorbed and a fresh scent is released. The fast-drying ingredients evaporate in seconds, leaving you with a fresh and clean feel.” You might think this type of odour protection was designed for marathon athletes, but Johnson Wilkerson says Secret Outlast can be used by all women who want extra insurance against perspiration. Showering removes the formula, so it’s best to apply daily. In the makeup arena, CoverGirl is also www.cosmeticsmag.com
upping the ante with its new LashBlast 24HR Mascara, $12, which promises smudge-proof, flake-resistant and voluminous lashes for hours, without the need to reapply. Sarah Vickery, principal scientist for CoverGirl Cosmetics, explains the approach to the long-wearing formula: bonding resins that hold the formula to the lash and volumizing structurants (clay particles) that are attracted to the lash. “This LashBlast 24-hour formula has been designed to resist the typical insults that destroy mascara wear throughout the day,” says Vickery. “It’s waterproof, abrasion-proof, and has resistance to skin oils. Bonding resins seal a smooth mascara film to the lash, allowing it to last up to 24 hours.” In the lip category, Maybelline is also adding to its SuperStay portfolio of longwear lipcolours. Last year, the brand launched SuperStay 24-hour LipColour – a dual-ended liquid lipcolour and balm. This month, Maybelline is bowing two new lip products: SuperStay 10-hour Stain Gloss, $10, and SuperStay 14-hour Lipstick, $10. Available in 10 shades, the Stain Gloss imparts stain-like colour and glossy shine, while SuperStay 14-hour Lipstick promises rich colour in 20 shades with a weightless formula that provides a light, long-wear film on the lips. JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
CONGRATULATIONS to our 2011 Cosmetics Outstanding Service Award winners...
BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT or SPECIALTY STORE and 2011 COSA OVERALL WINNER AWARD
BEST SERVICE IN A DEPARTMENT or SPECIALTY STORE
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
THE COSA DEPARTMENT or SPECIALTY STORE TEAM AWARD
Shiseido Team THE BAY, CALGARY M AR K ET M ALL
Noreen Romao
Jaye Lehmann
Joy McDonald
THE BAY SASK ATOON
THE BAY ST. V ITA L
ELIZABETH ARDEN/ BIOTHERM
CLINI�UE
THE BAY YOR K DALE ESTEE LAUDER
BEST SERVICE FOR A FRAGRANCE ADVISOR IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
ROOKIE OF THE YEAR IN A DEPARTMENT STORE
For your COMMITMENT to BRILLIANT customer SERVICE at The Bay’s BEAUTY counters coast to coast, the SPOTLIGHT’S ON YOU! Pat Bachman
Natalya (Natasha) Kurilyak
THE BAY POLO PAR K
THE BAY M ETROTOW N
FRAGRANCES
DECLEOR
IT’S YOUR TIME TO SHINE (AND SHIMMER, GLITTER AND GLOW).
TRENDS > Designer Fragrance
From left: The new guard of designer fragrances: Elie Saab Le Parfum Eau de Parfum, Fan di Fendi Eau de Parfum, and Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum
DESIGNER FRAGRANCE RENAISSANCE THE STRENGTH OF DESIGNER AND CLASSIC SCENTS SPURS A REVIVAL While celebrity fragrances are still going strong – Justin Bieber’s Someday launched last June and became the bestselling celebrity fragrance ever, and Lady Gaga and Madonna will go head-to-head this year with their own fragrance launches – designer fragrances have staged a major comeback. In the last year alone, we saw launches from previously scent-free fashion brands including Elie Saab, Bottega Veneta and Fendi with Fan di Fendi (the brand had been without a fragrance since 2009, when parent company LVMH phased out its Palazzo scent due to lacklustre sales). “Designer fragrances have always been a prevalent force in the industry,” says Lori 58
Singer, group VP global marketing Coty Prestige. “With the economic downturn, it’s an affordable entry point into the designer’s aesthetic and lifestyle. They offer women something that is individual and aspirational.” The latest designer brands to be launching fragrances this year and into 2013: Louis Vuitton, Tory Burch and Isaac Mizrahi. “Women may not be able to afford designer fashions, but fragrance is still within reach,” says Jamie Ross, creative director with New York-based trend forecasting service The Doneger Group. “That Isaac Mizrahi will be launching his first fragrance after all of these years of www.cosmeticsmag.com
being in the business is a clear sign of the rebirth of this category.” New women’s scents from designers Roberto Cavalli and Valentino, with Valentina, are also due out in early 2012. “Designer fragrances carry a level of elegance and prestige that resonate with women,” says Sandy DiLella, national account manager for Coty Canada. “Houses such as Chloé and Balenciaga are timeless, yet the current fashion and fragrances are very modern,” she says. “The trend will absolutely continue. Designer fragrances, like the fashion houses, are being reinvented so that even the classic brands have a fresh, young spirit.” JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Congratulations Natasha and Randy! You are being recognized for your great customer service and we are proud to have you both part of our team.
Natasha Kurilyak The Bay – Decleor counter Burnaby, British Columbia
Randy Peever Demonstrator Edmonton, Alberta
Your passion and dedication to our brands is inspirational. The fact that you always put the customer ďŹ rst, sets a great example to us all. Keep up the great work. From the team at Prestilux Inc.
TRENDS > Hair Smoothing
SMOOTH MOVES
From top: Ojon Super Sleek comes in two formulas: one for wavy to loose curls and one for medium to tight curls.
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Women always want the hair they can’t have: if it’s curly or wavy (as many women are), they want it smooth and sleek. So when salon straightening treatments such as the Brazilian Blowout and the Keratin Complex came on the scene in 2010, women everywhere flocked to the salon. But then news reports trickled in, first in the U.S. and then in Canada, of users experiencing burning eyes and difficulty breathing caused by some of the products. It was revealed that the treatments contained higher-thanacceptable amounts of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Health Canada has all but banned the offending treatments, but many women who experienced the longlasting, silky-smooth results were somewhat saddened they could no longer tame their locks for weeks and months on end. Now, Estée Lauder-owned natural beauty brand Ojon has taken up the straightmaking cause by introducing Super Sleek Hair Straightening System ($27 to $44), which is not only formaldehyde-free but also allows women to achieve the process at home. In case there are any doubts as to the product’s safety, Karelle Messner, executive director of Ojon product development, says the formula matches the pH level of hair and skin. “Unlike some salon treatments, Super Sleek does not contain formaldehyde, lye or cysteine,” says Messner. “It is so gentle to hair that no gloves or mask are necessary and you can wash your hair 24 hours after the www.cosmeticsmag.com
treatment.” The process takes 90 minutes from start to finish: users shampoo hair using the Super Sleek shampoo, towel-dry, and apply the product from roots to just before the ends, combing through. The product stays on for 30 minutes, while users comb hair straight periodically. Next comes the rinse, application of the Super Sleek conditioner, followed by another rinse. Hair is towel-dried, then blow-dried straight, and finally, flat-ironed in sections. The Super Sleek formula contains plant keratin proteins, Ojon oil and Azurite (an ion-rich semi-precious stone) to “help realign natural keratin bonds and fill in rough spots that can make hair coarse or frizzy,” says Messner. “The Ojon Straightening Complex softens keratin bonds, making hair more flexible, then reseals keratin bonds, smoothing out the hair cuticle to help prevent it from curling.” Since the formula is so light, Messner says the treatment improves smoothness without damaging hair. “Super Sleek smoothes, silkens and reduces frizz for up to 30 shampoos,” she says. “The results would be most comparable to a salon keratin treatment.” Messner says that Super Sleek won’t make your hair bonestraight, but it will make unruly hair more manageable. “This treatment gives you the flexibility to style your hair as desired. For a frizz-free, wavy or curly look, simply blow dry or air-dry your hair. Or for a straighter look, use a flat iron and create a sleeker style in half the time.” JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: istockphoto
SALON STRAIGHTENING TREATMENTS GO DIY
Congratulations Manon on your
2011 COSA Award win! Your superior service and dedication to your Sear’s customers are an inspiration to us all.
Manon Perron, Lise Watier Counter Sears, Gatineau, Quebec
From your family at Sears Canada, thank you for your outstanding customer service.
TRENDS > High-Tech Skincare
THE DOCTOR IS IN HIGH-TECH DERMATOLOGY TREATMENTS INSPIRE THE LATEST SKINCARE
Above: Dr. Frederic Brandt, dermatologist to the stars, and below, his new Glow by Dr. Brandt skincare regimen, inspired by the ruby laser in-office treatment.
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For A-list celebrities, having a dermatologist on speed-dial is a necessity: access to treatments such as chemical peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing are essential services where money is no object. But for the rest of us, getting these treatments on a regular basis is no drop in the bucket. Thankfully, derm skincare brands are upping the ante on overthe-counter products and offering ever more innovative formulas that mimic the effects of the latest in-office procedures. At-home microdermabrasion and peel kits have been available for the last few years, but celebrity dermatologist Dr. Frederic Brandt now offers a skincare regimen inspired by in-office ruby laser technology. Glow by Dr. Brandt Ruby Crystal Retinol Hydracrème features micro ruby crystals that refract light, transforming it into beneficial energy to create a healthy glow. Combined with a low-dose of timereleased retinol and with the help of skin illuminators and optical diffusers, the formula boosts skin’s ability to reflect light. “The ruby crystals convert the energy of ambient light into the red spectrum which will increase the energy produced in the cell,” says Brandt, cosmetic dermatologist and head of the Dermatologic Research Institute. “This strengthens the skin as far as cellular metabolism which will lead to younger-looking skin.” The Hydracrème www.cosmeticsmag.com
also restores moisture to balance hydration levels and boost radiance. The cream is paired with the Glow by Dr. Brandt Overnight Resurfacing Serum, which includes a 2% time-release retinol complex (the highest level of retinol available without a prescription) to stimulate cell renewal and revive dull skin. Meanwhile, antioxidants protect skin against external stressors and hydrabalance regulates water flow through cell membranes to prevent dehydration. Brandt says you can expect to see initial results with an improvement in hydration, while it may take a month to three months to see more long-term results. “We have the highest over-the-counter concentration of retinol (2%), that will increase cell turnover as well as collagen production, giving your skin a smoother surface as well as a reduction in fine lines and wrinkles,” says Brandt. “The retinol will also help even out pigmentation in the skin, allowing you to look more radiant. The antioxidants will help reduce free radical damage to the skin and help preserve collagen and elastin.” Brandt assures that any skin type can use the Glow regimen – even those with sensitive or intolerant skin. “The time release formula gives the strength of the 2% retinol without irritating or drying the skin for people who are normal to dry or sensitive.” JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Congratulations! 2011 COSA Award Winner! S HEL LY-ANN FL AS HA Cosmetics Department Manager South Edmonton Common
We warmly congratulate Shelly-Ann Flasha, Cosmetics Department Manager, South Edmonton Common, recipient of the 2011 Cosmetics Magazine COSA Award! The COSA (Cosmetics Outstanding Service Award) recognizes outstanding customer service achievements of cosmeticians, beauty advisors, fragrance advisors and demonstrators. Shelly-Ann exemplifies the driving force behind the award—making a career out of providing superior customer service and an outstanding shopping experience. Congratulations Shelly-Ann, we’re proud of you!
www.londondrugs.com Follow us on Twitter @LDCosmetics
Find us on Facebook at LD Cosmetics and subscribe to our Cosmetics Newsletter at londondrugs.com
TRENDS > Lash Boosters
LASHING OUT NEW LASH-BOOSTING MASCARAS AND FALSIES HELP LASHES GO THE EXTRA MILE
Models on the spring runways of Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs sported lashes so full, the effect was almost sleepyeyed – the girls could barely keep their eyes open with so many pairs of falsies affixed to their fringe. But regardless of makeup trends, there’s no question the mascara and lash category is on fire, bolstered not only by womens’ ever-increasing desire for longer, fatter lashes, but also by innovation in false lashes, lash-boosting products and souped-up mascaras. The latest mascara launches boast dynamic formulas along with lash strengthening benefits. Guerlain’s Mascara Noir G, launching in January, features black carbon pigments which amp up the intensity and depth of the black coating, while a protective polymer film sets over the lashes, for long-lasting, smudge-free wear. Finally, the formula is infused with artemia salina, a cell revitalizer to help stimulate the production of keratin, for more dense lashes. In February, Physicians Formula 64
introduces Organic Wear 100% Natural Origin Lash Boosting Mascara, which uses a complex of iron, zinc, silicon, copper and magnesium, along with probiotic protein to nourish and strengthen lashes. The formula is said to enhance lash length, thickness and volume both instantly and over the long term. The quest for longer lashes has led to mascara formulas that mimic the effects of falsies or even lash extensions (an in-salon service). In January, Maybelline launches Illegal Length Fiber Extension Mascara, which features a formula infused with four millimetre fibres that help build four millimetres of length to natural lashes. A “fibre-fix” brush has six different contact points to hit each lash at every angle, while the sealing formula stretches the lashes to deposit the maximum amount of fibres. Even eye makeup remover is getting an upgrade in the lash-enhancing department: in February, Marcelle launches Renforcils Eye Makeup Remover, which contains ingredients said to fortify frail lashes. www.cosmeticsmag.com
Meanwhile, Kiss has taken the guesswork out of applying false eyelashes with its Premium Eyelashes with Application Strings. Featuring strings running through the bottom of each lash, placement on the lashline is precise and easy: you simply apply glue to the lash, hold the strings on either side of the lash and apply to the lashline and let dry, then gently pull the strings out. London-based design company Paperself has made false eyelashes an art form with their intricate paper lashes. Inspired by Chinese paper cutting, each design features scenes of seahorses, flowers and butterflies that have symbolic meaning. “We’re seeing a return to drama,” explains Karen Grant, senior global beauty industry analyst for NPD Group. “A bold and defined eye is becoming more important. Whether it be very bold lashes or a defined brow – all the serums and [lash enhancers] will play a role in terms of consumers wanting a really strong eye look because the face is looking more natural.” JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Courtesy Paperself
From left: A model wears statementmaking paper lashes by Paperself; Guerlain’s Mascara Noir G, $50; Maybelline Illegal Length Fiber Extension Mascara, $10
Congratulations to our Shiseido Team at the Bay Market Mall in Calgary Alberta.
Your teamwork, passion for our brand and exceptional product knowledge results in loyal satisďŹ ed customers every day.
You are a wonderful example to us all. Keep up the great work.
TRENDS > B.B Creams
From left: Estée Lauder and Garnier are launching BB Creams this month, while Marcelle’s Beauty Balm lands in stores in February.
B.B CREAMS BELOVED IN ASIA, THE WONDER CREAMS FINALLY LAND IN CANADA In our time-pressed world, a cream that could combine a moisturizer, SPF, antioxidant serum, primer, illuminator and concealer into one product is the stuff of a beauty addict’s dreams. But BB Cream, short for Blemish, Beauty or Benefit Balm, makes this dream a reality. BB Creams marry skincare and cosmetic benefits in one: they treat, hydrate, brighten, protect and even out the complexion to create a perfect canvas in seconds. Sound too good to be true? Believe it: They’ve taken the Asian beauty world by storm, and this month, they’re touching down in Canada. The first BB Cream was developed in 1960 by German dermatologist Dr. Christine Schrammek-Druiso to calm and soothe skin redness after facial peels. The 66
creams were imported into Korea and Japan in the 2000s and caused a sensation when popular actresses used the products and revealed them as the secret to their glowing complexions. In South Korea, where drugstore aisles are packed to the rafters with row upon row of BB Creams, these skincare multi-taskers account for 13% of the mass market makeup sector. Garnier aims to create the same buzz with its BB Cream Miracle Skin Perfector, which promises to do the job of up to seven products in one tube. The formula offers maximum hydration via a cocktail of lipidure (a polymer with a high affinity for water), hyaluronic acid and glycerin, which both pull water from the air and hold it in to moisturize skin for 24 hours. Antioxidant vitamin C fights free radicals, www.cosmeticsmag.com
while light-reflecting properties boost skin’s radiance. Mineral pigments even out skin tone and blur fine lines and blemishes. Finally, SPF 15 protects skin from the sun’s rays and premature aging. BB Cream comes in two tints (light to medium, and medium to dark) and can be used on its own (much like a tinted moisturizer) or as a primer for foundation. The result is an immediate ‘glowy’ skin effect that also has long-term benefits. “After two weeks, women will feel their skin suppler, softer and improved in texture,” says Xavier Blin, worldwide director of development for consumer products & active cosmetics make up metier. “A long term radiant effect is also thanks to the hydration power of the formula, which creates a more luminous and healthy complexion.” Also in January, Estée Lauder is launching Daywear BB Multi-Perfecting Beauty Benefit Crème SPF 35, which, as its name suggests, packs some serious skincare benefits. Daywear BB features a superantioxidant complex featuring vitamins C and E, eukarion and amino acid EGT and deep sea ferment to protect and fend off daily aggressors. A broad-spectrum SPF 35 sunscreen fights UVA and UVB rays to keep skin looking younger longer. Hyaluronic acid and barrier-boosting lipids keep skin hydrated throughout the day, while an oil-free formula helps control oil and shine. Meanwhile, sheer pigments smooth skin and hide flaws, brightening optics even tone, and light-reflecting pearls enhance radiance. Canadian beauty brand Marcelle is launching its own BB Cream (minus the SPF) in February. And this is just the beginning for the BB Cream in Canada: watch for other players, including L’Oréal skincare brand Vichy, to enter the fray in the months ahead. JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
s n o i t a l u t a r cong to our
2011 Murale
CoSa winner
Jamie Gould, murale, CalGary, alberta
e n d l e S S c o S m e t I c S • F r ag r a n c e • a dva n c e d S K I n ca r e • B e au t y ca lg a ry
e d m o n to n
montreal
ot tawa
to r o n to
va n c o u v e r
TRENDS > Green Beauty
BEAUTY IN THE RAW MAKEUP AND SKINCARE THAT’S (ALMOST) GOOD ENOUGH TO EAT
From top: Susanne Langmuir’s Bite Beauty makeup line for lips is infused with antioxidant superfruits; Model Carol Alt swears by a raw-food diet, so she built a skincare line, Raw Essentials, based around raw food.
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With the popularity of green and natural-based beauty products, it seems the credo “what goes on your body, goes in your body” has never been more relevant. To wit: the emergence of skincare and makeup brands touting food-grade and raw ingredients. For former model Carol Alt, raw food nutrition became a lifestyle choice more than a decade ago, and she decided to harness the benefits in creating her skincare line, Raw Essentials, which launched at Shoppers Drug Mart last fall. The products are comprised of all-natural ingredients such as aloe, oat extract, and avocado, coconut and olive oils, which are never heated above 46˚C to retain their vitamins, enzymes and minerals. “Many of our ingredients are food products because essentially we are feeding our skin,” says Alt. “Feeding your body from the outside is just as important as feeding it from the inside. Like most women, I want to get results, but I want to do it in a more healthful way.” Alt points to the Raw Essentials Night Time Age Defying Eye Serum, which uses natural vitamin A found in carrots, as a product that delivers results without the need for chemicals, as its comparable to the vitamin A found in wrinkle-fighting Retin-A. “We look at a problem area and develop a solution with an ingredient found in nature,” says Alt. The line currently includes a face wash, scrub, toner, day and night moisturizers, face serum, eye cream and serum and a body oil, but Alt plans to round out her skincare offerings and also expand into haircare and cosmetics. www.cosmeticsmag.com
Canadian beauty veteran Susanne Langmuir, the brains behind a namesake perfume line and natural makeup brand Sula Beauty, launched Bite Beauty, a collection of lip products based on natural, food-grade ingredients and pigments, at Sephora in early 2011. “I love lipsticks and cosmetics, but I wanted options that were better for me, with ingredients that were good enough to eat,” says Langmuir of launching Bite. “I believe what you put on your face and lips should be good enough to eat too.” The lineup includes Vitamin Gel, infused with multivitamins and organic fruit juices; Superfruit Butter, a multi-use salve containing whole superfruits such as antioxidant-rich açai, blueberry and cranberry to moisturize skin and lips; and Luminous Crème Lipstick, which boasts 24 shades and a formula based on organic fruit butters and resveratrol, (an antioxidant found in red wine) to help reduce the look of fine lines. All of the products boast agedefying benefits; Langmuir points out that each Bite Beauty product contains the antioxidant equivalent of five glasses of red wine. “There is a lot of evidence that antioxidants fight free radicals that age skin,” says Langmuir. “Because of their high ORAC values (Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity) values, they repair and regenerate.” Up next on Langmuir’s Bite list: a Whipped Cherry Fruit Scrub made with cherry-flavoured mousse, jojoba beads and cherry kernel oil to exfoliate and soften lips. “This is a habit-forming product that tastes delicious too!” she cautions. JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Recognizing the talented men and women who work so hard to make our brands look so beautiful.
In-store displays also help increase sales and visibility for your brands whether it be for a newly launched product, rebranding or seasonal support.
Nominations are now open for the 2011 Visual Display Awards. Visit cosmeticsmag.com and download your nomination form under the “Awards� tab. Or you can nominate your favourite visual display designer by simply sending their name and e-mail address to Ruth Taylor-Cox at: ruth.taylorcox@cosmetics.rogers.com
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Cover Story
by Kristen Vinakmens
RIHANNAS
INNER REBEL
W
ith her fire-engine-red mane, controversial music videos and provocative sense of style, Rihanna is far from your typical charttopping songstress. While she may have started out in 2005 as a girly, teenpop-lite singer, she’s evolved since then to embrace a bolder sound that fuses R&B, hip hop, reggae and dancehall with a dash of ‘90s euro-pop. Ri-Ri has also ditched her sexy-cute image to become a boundary-pushing style icon: her fierce look mixes urban street-style (she has the tattoos to prove it) with fashion-forward runway looks. In short, Rihanna defies categorization. Clearly, her transformation from good girl gone bad has struck a chord with fans: her song “We Found Love” became her eleventh single to reach number one on the Billboard Hot 100 charts. Much like her style, Rihanna’s foray into fragrance has also defied expectations: her first scent, Reb’l Fleur launched in spring 2011, and was a smash hit, bringing in $80 million in sales. A fruity-chypre, Reb’l Fleur (the name given to Rihanna by her grandmother, which is also tattooed on her neck), was promoted by a web-video that asked fans if they were a “rebel” or a “flower”. The fans resoundingly chose the rebel, which in turn became the inspiration for her second scent, Rebelle by Rihanna. “Rebelle is about taking control but still being a lady,” says Rihanna. “There’s a feminine, romantic element to the fragrance – but there’s also a defiant quality in it. I love its duality.” Rebelle could be described as a richer, more mysterious counterpart to Reb’l Fleur: it channels the lush, fruity notes of her first scent, yet it’s infused with zesty ginger and edgy musk at the end. At the heart are tropical notes of cacao 70
absolute, vanilla orchid and heliotrope, while heady patchouli, rare coffee beans, creamy musk and amber round out the finish. “Rebelle is a deeper, more sensual scent but still bright and fun,” says Rihanna. “I love the way there’s a sexy jolt of ginger at the top; it creates a gorgeous harmony with the notes of luscious strawberries and ripe purple plums. But when this fragrance warms on my skin, it becomes beguiling, dark and mysterious. It reminds me of a reggae hook in my music.” Rihanna worked with Givaudan perfumers Caroline Sabbas and Marypierre Julien on both scents, and the singer feels they captured her personality, as well as her Caribbean roots. “Both of my fragrances have notes that remind me of life in Barbados (where I am from) – the coconut water in Reb’l Fleur and the lively jolt of ginger in Rebelle,” she says. “Each fragrance playfully captures the essence of my roots and the sophistication of my city life today.” The new scent’s bottle design echoes the original fragrance and is inspired by the shape of a stiletto heel, but rather than being enveloped in black, Rebelle features a swirling, matte crimson ribbon. Rihanna is rarely seen without her sky-high stilettos, and just as they’re part of her daily uniform, so too are her fragrances. “I’m never without one of my fragrances,” she says. “Reb’l Fleur or Rebelle – I love wearing them day into evening. My fragrances are about my passion for individuality. So when I wear them, I feel expressive and empowered but also emotional and intriguing.” Rebelle by Rihanna Eau de Parfum Spray is $59 (50 ml) and $69 (100ml) is available at Shoppers Drug Mart beginning in March.
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JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Rihanna image courtesy Prestilux
The good girl gone bad is set to take the fragrance world by storm with her second fragrance, Rebelle
New Fragrances
by Heather Marrin
Princess Night, Vera Wang An intoxicating and mysterious fragrance for her
Acqua di Gioia Essenza, Giorgio Armani An intense feminine floral for her NOTES: Top: Mint leaves, lemon and pink pepper Heart: Jasmine absolute, carnal and water jasmine Base: Cashmere woods, cedarwood and red sugar
NOTES: Top: Wild berries, watermelon and raspberry Heart: Jasmine petals, spicy orange blossom and passion rose Base: Crushed sugar, musk and vanilla FaST FaCT: • Inspired by a princess gazing at sparkling city lights at night, the bottle is encrusted with glitter and adorned with a silver crown with amethyst-hued stone accents. Eau de Toilette spray: 30ml, $49. Available in February exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart and Pharmaprix.
FaST FaCTS: • The fragrance is a more concentrated version of the original juice, Acqua di Gioia. • For the bottle, Giorgio Armani imagined a flask with voluptuous curves, dipped in a bath of silver.
A fragrant bouquet of roses for her NOTES: Top: Bergamot and black currant Heart: Centifolia rose and Damask rose Base: White musk, cedar and honey FaST FaCTS: • For the packaging and design, Diptyque drew its inspiration from the motifs of an ancient Japanese kimono. • The bottle is marked with the brand’s famous graphic signature, and topped with a classic black stopper.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $77 and 100ml, $99. Available in February at drug and department stores.
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Eau Rose, Diptyque
Eau de Toilette: 100ml, $98, 20ml roll-on, $48. Available in February at Holt Renfrew.
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january 2012 COSMETICS
New Fragrances
Jimmy Choo Eau De Toilette A sophisticated, fashionforward fragrance for her
Playboy, Play It Rock A peppy, fruity-floral fragrance for women NOTES: Top: Blood orange and passion flower Heart: Frangipani, black ebony and vanilla Base: Leather, orange blossom, saffron and candy apple
NOTES: Top: Pear and ginger Heart: Tiger orchid and tea rose Base: Cedarwood FaST FaCTS: • Perfumer Olivier Polge (of Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb fame) is the nose behind the fragrance. • Inspired by handcrafted Italian Murano glass, the pale pink scent sparkles in a subtly iridescent bottle that captures light at every turn. Eau de Toilette: 100ml, $89 and 50ml, $63. Available in February at Holt Renfrew.
FaST FaCTS: • Play it Rock was inspired by rockstars, glamorous celebrities, and happening gigs at the biggest mansions and hippest clubs. • The bottle designer, Logic Design, captured the essence of Playboy by capping the fragrance with the iconic playboy rabbit head in crimson red, complete with a bow tie around the neck.
A classic and elegant fragrance for her NOTES: Top: Citrus Heart: Rose Base: Patchouli FaST FaCTS: • Chosen for her natural beauty and spontaneous personality, the new face of L’Eau de Chloé is 21-year-old French actress and model, Camille Rowe-Pourcheresse. • The new interpretation of the original bottle reveals the iconic ribbon in a soft green hue, topped with a silver cap. Eau de Toilette: 50ml, $82 and 100ml, $105. Available in February at Holt Renfrew, select Bay department stores, Murale, Shoppers Drug Mart, Pharmaprix, and Sephora.
Eau de Toilette: 30ml, $25. Available in February at Shoppers Drug Mart, Pharmaprix, London Drugs and PJC Group.
january 2012 COSMETICS
L’Eau de Chloé
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New Fragrances
Love Fury, Nine West A seductive elixir of fresh fruits and lush flowers for her NOTES: Top: Rosebud FirNat, mimosa petals absolute, mandarin and red berries Heart: Tiare tahiti NaturePrint, Jasmine sambac FirAbs and sandalwood Base: Orris flower, musk, wood and amber
Bleu de Chanel Men’s Travel Spray A perfect travel companion for him
FaST FaCTS: • The bottle was inspired by a “killer” heel breaking through glass, topped with a rich lacquered black, like a classic stiletto. • Passionate emotions between lovers inspired creative director Fred Allard to name the fragrance Love Fury. Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $52 and 100ml, $63. Available in February at Nine West Boutiques, more distribution TBC.
NOTES: Top: Pink pepper, citrus accord and vetiver Heart: Grapefruit, dry cedar and labdanum Base: Frankincense, ginger and sandalwood
Signorina, Salvatore Ferragamo A subtly cheeky and fresh fragrance for her NOTES: Top: Pink pepper Heart: Jasmine, peony and rose Base: Panna cotta, musk and patchouli
FaST FaCTS: • The 20ml travel spray is portable and fit for any sports bag or briefcase. • Made from blue aluminum, the bottle features a twist and spray system and the Bleu de Chanel name screen-printed in silver.
FaST FaCTS: • The creative for the campaign was inspired by an iconic love story between a young man and woman. • The face for the campaign is top Italian model Bianca Balti, who was chosen for her strong, fresh and feminine personality.
Eau de Toilette: 3 x 20ml, $73. Refills, 3 x 20ml, $65. Available January 30 at Chanel beauty counters.
Eau de Parfum: 50ml, $82 and 100ml, $109. Already available at Holt Renfrew.
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You are invited to
REVLON’S 2012 NEW PRODUCT WORKSHOPS
Join us for a session filled with new innovations and bold colour palettes. Experience a new world of “inspired beauty” by the hottest trends off the runways.
Be the first to learn the latest makeup artist tips and tricks. New and exciting techniques to update your client’s look. January
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Jacquie Hutchinson Revlon’s National Product Trainer and Makeup Artist Don’t miss out on these exciting seminars…
Seating is limited so please register early.
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Sessions will be led by
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In Memoriam by Heather Marrin
Remembering Evelyn Lauder
From top: Evelyn Lauder, surrounded by her famous pink ribbons; Lauder with husband Leonard; Lauder with Elizabeth Hurley at a fundraising event for Breast Cancer
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Last November, the cosmetics industry unfortunately lost a woman who not only championed beauty, but was also at the forefront of women’s health issues. Evelyn Lauder was the Senior Corporate Vice President of Estée Lauder Companies, however, as her husband Leonard made note in a letter to her colleagues, “that title didn’t fully convey the myriad of things that she has done for the ELC through the years”. Not only was she a key component to the success of the Estée Lauder brand, Evelyn also cared deeply about others, and was always hands-on with her efforts to help wherever she could. In 1992, she started the pink ribbon campaign to raise awareness for breast cancer and to serve as a reminder for women about breast exams. It began as a small effort largely financed by herself and her husband, in which the bows were handed out to women at makeup counters. That small effort grew into something big: a congressional designation of October as Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and The Breast Cancer Research Foundation, which Evelyn founded, and which to date has raised more than $350 million. Within three years of launching the pink ribbon campaign, and after garnering plenty of media buzz that got people talking, the campaign was literally everywhere and remains a benchmark for other charities to emulate. “She was a loving wife, mother, mother in-law, grandmother, mentor, friend, executive, photographer, and philanthropist. And she was passionate, creative, energetic, determined, and loved to tell funny stories,” said her husband Leonard. While Mrs. Lauder may no longer physically be present within this industry, her footprint will forever stay, and her legacy will live on.
*Should you wish to show your deepest regards to the Lauder family, in lieu of flowers, donations may be made to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation, Evelyn Lauder Founder’s Fund: www.bcrfcure.org or 60 East 56th Street, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10022.
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JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
Photo: Top, by Rob Rich; left, by Julie Skarratt
evelyn lauder paved the way for pink.
Vendor SponSorS
CELEBRATING THE 2011 MEN’S AND WOMEN’S FRAGRANCE LAUNCHES OF THE YEAR
AWARD CATEGORIES
DUTAL Inc.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Best Niche Launch – Men’s or Women’s – under 10 stores Best Luxe Launch – Women’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Luxe Launch – Men’s – 10 – 50 Stores Best Limited Launch – Women’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Limited Launch – Men’s – 50 – 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Women’s – over 250 Stores Best Full Market Launch – Men’s – over 250 Stores Best Private Label/Direct Sell Launch – Men’s or Women’s Best Print Media Editorial – Canadian Magazine/Newspapers Best Broadcast Media Editorial – Television and Web Hall of Fame Award – Women’s Hall of Fame Award – Men’s Lifetime Achievement Award Best Scent – Judge’s Choice Consumer’s Choice Award
If you launched a new fragrance in 2011 and would like to nominate it for the Canadian Fragrance Awards, please contact Ruth Taylor-Cox at 416-764-1671 An official nomination binder will be sent to your attention Nominations will be accepted in December 2011 C O S M É T I Q U E S
Next Year’s Event: Thursday, April 26, 2012 – Metro Toronto Convention Center, Toronto, Ontario MEDIA SPONSORS
RETAIL SPONSORS TM|MC
SPONSORS
My Life in Beauty
The Makeup Guru:
Gucci Westman
REvlOn GlObal aRTISTIC DIRECTOR What was your first job in the beauty industry?
I had the opportunity to do the makeup on the music video “High and Dry” for the band Radiohead. Why did you choose beauty as a career?
I love painting, I love people and I love beauty. Making women feel beautiful makes me very happy. Who has had the most influence on your career in the beauty industry?
Grace Coddington, Steven Meisel and Anna Wintour. Describe a typical day for you.
No two days are the ever same. I travel a lot. When I am home, I usually begin the day by getting my kids ready for school. If I start work later in the day, I try to fit in an exercise class beforehand. Where do you derive inspiration for new collections?
I’m inspired by all sorts of different things—my trips, women, different eras of time, nature (in particular the colour harmonies found in nature, film and art). What three words would you use to describe yourself?
Loving (I love to be in love). Creative. Joyful. What do you love most about your job?
I’m lucky to have the ability to travel to so many cool places. I love the adrenaline rush you get from a job, the creative process behind creating a particular look, and, the opportunity to collaborate with some very talented people. What would you be doing if you weren’t working in beauty?
I would work with horses, or own a vineyard. I would also love to do interior design. What advice would you offer someone just starting out in the beauty industry?
Learn as much as you can, whenever and wherever you can. Practice—a lot; assist the people you admire. Stay one step ahead and use your intuition. 78
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january 2012 COSMETICS
january 2012 COSMETICS
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congratulations nominees, finalists and winners of the 2011 COSA Awards
Purely Print is honoured to support the 2011 COSA Awards. We recognize the importance of great customer service and are inspired by the achievement of all nominees. Purely Print is trusted by leading national and global companies to creatively design, print and deliver with flawless execution, reaching beyond our client’s expectations.
www.purelyprint.com
905.828.0488
the
Cosa awards 2011
january 2012 COSMETICS
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Cosa awards 2011
We Celebrated 10 years! beauty industry leaders gathered at the royal york in Toronto to celebrate the 10th annual COSa awards. The awards were designed not only to highlight the importance of customer service in the retail industry, but also to celebrate those individuals that go above and beyond their job descriptions on a daily basis. From delivering parcels to a customer’s house on their own dime outside of work hours, to designing unique events for their
On nOvembeR 17th, 2011,
clients, each year our judges are never disappointed by the level of thought, kindness and hard work that our winners have displayed. In light of the awards’ 10-year anniversary, Cosmetics followed up with a few of our past winners to find out how winning a COSa award has affected their careers and personal lives. Here is what some of them had to say about their COSa win:
Hall of fame
Romaine Bond 2008 TEaM award & 2009 PEEr NOMINaTEd, ThE Bay, ESTEé LaudEr, VErNON BC
“Receiving my cOSA intROduced me to a whole world of experts to draw from. Before and during the awards banquet, you get to meet and socialize with so many talented people: jim Hicks & his team, the COSa judges, corporate sponsors, CEOs, trainers, account executives, talented beauty advisors and many, many more mesmerizing people. Everyone’s willing to talk to you, offer congratulations, swap stories, give advice and best of all, they keep in touch! It has made my job so much easier to know I have amazing connections and resources I can tap into. now when I call my buyers, I know the face I am talking to. I have made a personal connection with them where we have discussed our different roles, challenges and successes. It definitely makes for a smoother working relationship. On a personal level, I still tingle every time I think about or talk about the COSas. I wish I could go every year! My COSa team and I still get together and talk about the gala, the people, jim and his untiring team, and the great sponsor gifts! now we get together and watch the live stream! I hope the new COSa winners enjoy their days in the spotlight...COnGraTuLaTIOnS to them all.” 82
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january 2012 COSMETICS
Hall of fame
Hall of fame
Elysa Panzica, 2009 rOOkIE Of ThE yEar, rExall PharMaPluS, BOlTOn, On “After winning my COSA, I was exposed to several great career opportunities. I was approached to be a training and education specialist for a Canadian cosmetic company. Shortly after that, I was recruited by one of Canada’s largest drug retailers to join their cosmetics merchandising team. I have now been presented with a new opportunity within that same organization as a merchandise analyst for cosmetics and beauty. The last two years after winning my COSa have led to consistent opportunities for me to grow in my career and understand this industry from many different perspectives. My most valued experience after winning a COSa was joining the Look Good Feel Better volunteer roster. Every month, I devote time to some beautiful women who are truly an inspiration. My time volunteering is a reminder of what this industry stands for—to help others feel good, inside and out. To be someone’s support and offer advice; to be someone’s ear, even if it’s for a short time; to show someone they are worth my time and attention. When I’m having a difficult day, I just remember what I was recognized for. Winning a COSa was the academy award of my career. It was an experience that I will remember for the rest of my life.” january 2012 COSMETICS
Amaris Crawford, 2010 OvErall WInnEr, MuralE, Calgary aB “COSA hAS ChAnged my life! I do my work with even more purpose. It’s like someone took a magnifying glass to what you may have felt was a not-as-important-job and said, ‘What you are doing is a good thing and it’s fantastic!’ I think of that moment when I won the COSa and it reminds me to keep giving the best possible service to each customer everyday. That night/trip is the highlight of my career as a working human being thus far. Thank you for all that you do to keep us inspired in the industry!”
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RAISE A GLOSS — too Canada’s Can da’s ttop beau beauty eauty aassociates assoc oc
As Canada’s DESTINATION for COSMETICS and FRAGRANCE, we’re PROUD to recognize the faces behind our success– you make us who we are. For your GRACIOUSNESS and GORGEOUSNESS and for giving your BEST to every client, WE TOAST our talented team.
CONGRATULATIONS TO OUR COSMETICS OUTSTANDING SERVICE AWARDS NOMINEES AND WINNERS WHO KNOW BEAUTY INSIDE OUT.
COSA AWARDS 2011 OVERALL WINNER “A successful perfume is one whose fragrance corresponds to an initial dream.” — Jacques Guerlain
NOREEN ROMAO THE BAY, ESTÉE LAUDER TORONTO, ON
“Our founder, Mrs. Estée Lauder, was an amazing businesswoman who revolutionized the beauty industry. It is my hope that I bring her passion and joy to life every day that I represent Estée Lauder Cosmetics and HBC.”
Noreen accepts her award from David Grisim, associate marketing director, P&G Beauty Care.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
THE NOMINATIONS FLOODED IN for this particular COSA winner. Noreen Romao has become a celebrity at the Bay Yorkdale for her outstanding service and winning strategies to build her business. She’s not only a leader in her own store, but in the Toronto market as a whole, and she’s called upon regularly when fellow employees in the area are looking for advice on how to surpass their sales goals. As for Noreen’s customers, they are able to count on her for every occasion even when she’s not working. Whether it’s a last-minute makeup application for a wedding or graduation, or a husband that has forgotten an anniversary and in need of a quick solution, Noreen has secured herself on her clients’ speed dial and is readily available both on and off the clock. As a result, it is no surprise that she is ranked number three in Canada over plan and number one in her region for sales. www.cosmeticsmag.com
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Congratulations to All COSA Nominees and Winners! P&G Beauty & Grooming products help women and men look, feel and be their best everyday. With 8 billion dollar brands and products available in nearly 130 countries, we believe that beauty is not about what is; it is about what can be.
Thank you for your outstanding passion, dedication and service we couldn’t do it without you!
Š2012 P&G
COSA AWARDS 2011 Team Award DEPARTMENT STORE
SHISEIDO THE BAY, CALGARY, AB TEAM MEMBERS: PICTURED, FROM LEFT: ANGELA CHEN, JULISA SZETO AND IVY CHIN. NOT IN ATTENDANCE: PENNY ANDERSON, RANKI CHEN, SHELLY RANDEV, AND CHRISTY HUANG.
“In order to fully understand your customers’ needs and wants, it requires establishing a relationship built on trust, much like the trust we share with each other.”
Shelley Rozenwald, chief beauty adventurer at The Bay, presents the COSA to the Shiseido team.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
ACCORDING TO STORE MANAGEMENT, the Shiseido team at the Bay, Market Mall have a rapport with their customers that goes unmatched in the industry, and they’re constantly praised by clients for their dedication and commitment to finding the right product. Each team member will spend countless hours uncovering unique facts about their product line, and as a result, have all become experts armed and willing to offer up complimentary treatments. The customer service doesn’t end there. It’s not unusual to find this team putting together wedding packages for their clients, bringing them meals and flowers if they’re ill, or even throwing a party just to say thank you for their continued support. “This team truly inspires,” says Shiseido trainer, Neil Assenheimer. www.cosmeticsmag.com
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CONGRATULATIONS
Our highest compliments and congratulations to all the 2011 COSA Award winners! We’re honoured to participate in the celebration of your continued excellence and dedication to our customers.
From all of us at Shoppers Drug Mart.
COSA AWARDS 2011 Team Award DRUGSTORE
SHOPPERS DRUG MART, TRURO, NOVA SCOTIA TEAM MEMBERS: FROM LEFT: BARB LONGMIRE, LISA MEERS, SEANNA MCCALLUM, JESSICA VANDENHOEK AND SUSAN COOPER.
“As a team we feel that we are empowering our community of women to find their inner beauty, and wear it in their smile.”
The Shoppers team accepts their award from Cathy Masson, director cosmetics, Shoppers Drug Mart.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
IF YOU HEAR LAUGHTER BELLOWING from the Shoppers Drug Mart in Truro, Nova Scotia, there’s no doubt that it’s coming from the team in the cosmetics department. Describing themselves as a closeknit family, Lisa, Susan, Barb, Seanna, and Jessica have made it their mission to bring beauty, health, and happiness to their small town. With a unified approach to customer service, these women not only offer devout support to one another, they make every customer that walks through the door their main priority. By studying their product lines inside and out, creating excitement throughout the store with events, and maintaining friendly competition to reach sales goals, their colleagues and community call them “the best department in town.” www.cosmeticsmag.com
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TOGETHER CONNECT. COMMUNICATE. CONQUER. FOR A FUTURE FREE OF BREAST CANCER
CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2011 COSA WINNERS
COSA AWARDS 2011 Lifetime Achievement DEPARTMENT STORE
JOY MACDONALD THE BAY, CLINIQUE WINNIPEG, MB
“I feel the best compliment you can receive is having your customers return to your counter for their cosmetics.”
Sara Whittaker, regional production director, Clinique Canada, presents Joy her award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
FOR THE LAST 28 YEARS, Joy McDonald has arrived 45 minutes prior to her shift. At this time, Joy prepares to lead her team of eager beauty advisors, all of which look to Joy as a mentor and friend. Described by her colleagues as passionate and patient, Joy puts a premium on building long-term relationships with her customers, and a number of them have been coming to her weekly for years. Even after almost 30 years in the industry, Joy doesn’t skip a beat and is always readily available to provide an extra set of hands or just lend an ear. She remembers her customers’ birthdays, celebrates their successes, and is there for them in times of pain and mourning. Always following up with them on the phone, or dropping parcels off at their front door, Joy’s unique approach to customer service has ensured continued sales growth, and a dedicated following. www.cosmeticsmag.com
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Lifetime Achievement DRUGSTORE
BETTY DESMONE SHOPPERS DRUG MART ABBOTSFORD, BC
“Each customer shapes the person that I am, and every day I appreciate the privilege of being able to work among some of the greatest people in the industry.”
Betty accepts her award from Lee Graff, president, Cover FX.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
days working in the cosmetics industry and she still begins and ends each shift with the same passion she did on day one. She has provided countless makeovers, thrown numerous events, and continues to make friends and form meaningful relationships along the way. Admittedly, Betty loves working in an environment where she feels she can truly make a difference. As a cancer survivor, she has dedicated her free time to supporting the Look Good, Feel Better organization, a charity committed to empowering women to manage the emotional and physical effects of cancer. According to those she works with, “her smile is contagious, her laugh is infectious, and not one of her customers leaves her department without feeling like they’ve won the lottery.”
BETTY DESMONE HAS SPENT MORE THAN 12,000
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MARCELLE AND ANNABELLE WOULD LIKE TO CONGRATULATE ALL 2011 COSA NOMINEES AND WINNERS. Delivering customer service to a level that is outstanding takes passion, hard work and devotion. Excellence in serving others is synonymous with skills, taking pride in your work and appreciating the brands you represent. Our high quality skin care and colour cosmetics have been part of Canadian consumers lives for over 60 years thanks to you. We salute your dedication and commitment and we are honoured to take this time to extend our warmest CONGRATULATIONS and to say THANK YOU for giving the best of yourself, every day.
Proud sponsors of the 2011 Cosmetics Outstanding Service Awards.
COSA AWARDS 2011 Rookie of the Year DEPARTMENT STORE
NATASHA KURILYAK THE BAY, DECLÉOR BURNABY, BC
“I love talking to customers and teaching them how to care for their skin. I love it when they realize just how beautiful they really are.”
Natasha receives her award from Christine Barvinek, VP sales, Groupe Marcelle Inc.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
THAT EAR-TO-EAR SMILE YOU CAN SPOT from the other side of The Bay in Burnaby belongs to Natasha Kurilyak. Armed with a zest for life, and an unwavering sense of humour, customers never hesitate to put their trust in this Bay employee. Able to match this with a high level of professional training and passion for customer service, clients travel past various other locations to arrive at Natasha’s counter. A teacher too, she’ll spend countless hours coaching her customers on how to effectively use their skincare products, and seeks to get to know them all individually. One could say that the biggest compliment in the industry is when you receive a referral, and thanks to excellent service, Natasha continues to build a successful business based on word of mouth. www.cosmeticsmag.com
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Proud Sponsor of the 2011 Cosa Awards Congratulations to the winners
COSA AWARDS 2011 Rookie of the Year DRUGSTORE
KELLY O’BRIEN SHOPPERS DRUG MART BRAMPTON, ON
“People can read right through you if you don’t show them you truly care about their needs. I treat my customers like friends or close family.”
Kelly receives her award from Alexander Keller, SVP luxury products division, L’Oréal Canada.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
IN HER SHORT TENURE AT SHOPPERS DRUG MART IN BRAMPTON,
Kelly is already considered the go-to expert within the store for product knowledge and dermatological concerns. On a daily basis, she sets a goal to not only improve the physical appearance of her customers, but also their sense of well-being and self-assurance. According to the store’s owner, John Palumbo, Kelly is always successful in meeting her personal goals because of her down-to-earth demeanour and easy-going nature. Customers are constantly singing her praise, whether by phone, in person, or by email. It’s been documented that Kelly receives more positive feedback than all the other employees in the store combined. One customer wrote: “Kelly’s level of service was impeccable. Her ability to both educate and demonstrate how to use the products helped me make informed decisions.” This particular customer is among the long list that continues to visit Kelly at Shoppers Drug Mart. www.cosmeticsmag.com
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Cheers!
Congratulations to this year’s nominees, finalists and winners. We celebrate your passion, dedication and outstanding service. shop in store
ME094C111 ©2011. Sears Canada Inc.
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Peer Nominated DEPARTMENT STORE
MANON PERRON SEARS, LISE WATIER GATINEAU, QC
“Every single one of my clients has something to offer that makes them unique and valuable; without them, who would we share our passion for beauty with?”
Manon accepts her award from Wayne Peterson, divisional VP cosmetics & fragrances, Sears Canada.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
LOOKING FOR A FEW MAKEUP APPLICATION TRICKS? All
you have to do is call Manon and she’ll sign you up for a makeup workshop that she holds regularly. Passionate about all things beautiful from brushes to palettes, Manon inspires those around her to refine their skills, and motivates fellow employees with her love for the industry and the people in it. Dedicated to her customers, she never forgets a name or a face, and she strives to ensure they find everything they’re looking for. If her Sears location doesn’t have a product in-store, Manon will go out of her way to drive to the nearest location that has the product to ensure her customers leave satisfied. Her dedication, combined with her passion for the beauty industry, has inspired a very loyal customer base.
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Peer Nominated DRUGSTORE
SHELLY ANN FLASHA LONDON DRUGS, EDMONTON, AB
“So much has changed over the last 28 years in the industry, from the way we do business, to the advancement in skin care. I love that I still get excited by it all.”
Mary van Praag, general manager, Coty Canada, presents Shelly her award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
and recognize Shelly Ann, it may not just be from your time shopping at London Drugs. You may have seen her at one of the local nursing homes visiting the residents, or at an Edmonton high school giving a lesson to the students about how to properly apply makeup and care for their skin. However, if you’re lucky enough to catch Shelly in the store, it doesn’t matter how much is on her plate that day, she will make time for you. Described by those she works with as “constantly on,” and “incredibly attentive to everyone’s needs,” her colleagues say at any given time you would never know that Shelly has a list of ten thousand things to do. Always looking at the glass as half full, she inspires everyone around her to smile, and to start and finish every day with a positive attitude.
IF YOU’RE A RESIDENT OF EDMONTON
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PROTECTION FROM ENVIRONMENTAL THREATS IS A 24/7 JOB FOR YOUR SKIN PREVAGE® with Idebenone, the single most powerful antioxidant.* Skin that goes out in the world needs PREVAGE,® to help combat the visible effects of environmental stress that can lead to the appearance of lines, wrinkles, age spots, discolourations and dryness. Our new high-powered moisturizers with Idebenone work day and night to smooth away the visible signs of damage and restore skin’s radiant, vital look.
New PREVAGE® Day Intensive Anti-aging Moisture Cream SPF 30
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*When compared to alpha lipoic acid, kinetin, vitamin C, vitamin E and coenzyme Q10. EPF® and Environmental Protection Factor™ are certification marks and trademarks owned by Pharma Cosmetix Research, L.L.C. ©2011 Elizabeth Arden, Inc.
®
COSA AWARDS 2011 Retail Nominated DEPARTMENT STORE
JAY ANDY LEHMANN THE BAY, ELIZABETH ARDEN & BIOTHERM SASKATOON, SK
“There are lots of little things I love about my job, but they all work together to contribute to the one thing I love most — finding the perfect solution for everyone who comes to my counters.”
Robin Mitchell, general manager, Elizabeth Arden Canada, presents Jay his award.
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THERE CAN BE NOTHING MORE UNCOMFORTABLE than to have a complete stranger touch your face. However, for Jaye Andy, the minute he meets someone, he establishes an instant rapport by asking questions and finding common interests to make the customer feel more at ease. By fostering these relationships he has not only built a healthy client list, he continues to increase his sales and surpass the expectations of everyone he works with. According to a colleague, he’s not only passionate about building relationships and trust with customers and the lines he sells, but he also shows his support for everything under the HBC umbrella. Always willing to lend a hand to a counter that is short on staff, or walk a customer through other departments to assist them with their shopping, he has made it his personal mission to increase the level of kindness and service at his location.
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StandingOvation. Rexall is a proud sponsor of the 10th Annual Cosmetic Outstanding Service Awards. Congratulations to all the winners.
COSA AWARDS 2011 Retail Nominated DRUGSTORE
MARIA GARIEPY REXALL/PHARMAPLUS OTTAWA, ON
“My job is filled with countless thrilling challenges and the chance to meet new people. My job is never the same from day-to-day and that is why I love it so much.”
Maria accepts her award from Rachel Chin, director of beauty, Rexall/PhamaPlus.
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working at Rexall/ PharmaPlus. One of the busiest locations in the area, it’s hard to imagine that even after 30 years, no two days are ever the same for Maria. But it’s true. Driven by the challenge of finding each customer the perfect fit when it comes to a healthy and effective skincare regimen, it’s no surprise that she has become a fan favourite in the city of Ottawa when it comes to experts in the field. Not only does she rise to the challenge of finding every individual the right fit, she is always looking to find ways to make their shopping experience more enjoyable. Maria is constantly planning small to large-scale events, following up with demonstrators on the phone for in-store promotions, and continually seeking new ways to showcase what’s new and exciting in the store in a creative manner.
THIS FEBRUARY WILL MARK MARIA’S 30TH YEAR
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Vendor Nominated DRUGSTORE
ADRIANNE SEMPLE SHOPPERS DRUG MART THUNDER BAY, ON
“The one thing I absolutely love about my job is the satisfaction I get from interacting face-to-face with people every day.”
Adrianne accepts her award from Anne Tillman-Graham, VP (right) & Cheryl Francisco, territory manager, Quadrant Cosmetics.
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across the country don’t look inviting, organized, or, even worse, clean. That counter does not belong to Adrianne Semple. Committed to always making sure the counter is sufficiently stocked, immaculately clean, and equipped with a sign-up list for the latest event she’s planning, Adrianne takes great pride in creating a place for her customers to feel like they’re at their home away from home. While she does spend time ensuring her “home” looks inviting, Adrianne also spends time outside of the store getting involved with the community. Known for her outbound activities to build business, she is always partnering up with local stores to run VIP nights for her customers. According to her colleagues, her passion is contagious and also inspires those around her to think outside of the box.
YOU’D BE SURPRISED BY HOW MANY BEAUTY COUNTERS
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FROM ALL OF US AT MURALE, CHEERS TO THE BEAUTIES OF THE HOUR. OUR CONGRATULATIONS TO ALL THE 2011 COSA AWARD WINNERS.
ENDLESS COSMETICS • FRAGRANCE ADVANCED SKIN CARE • BEAUTY CALGARY • EDMONTON • MONTRÉAL OTTAWA • TORONTO • VANCOUVER
WWW.MURALE.CA
COSA AWARDS 2011 Part-time Personnel DEPARTMENT STORE
JAMIE GOULD MURALE, CALGARY, AB
“I am not able to separate my personal life from my work because my work is personal. I invite people into my world and in turn have them invite me into theirs.”
Carol Wheatley, category director, Murale, presents Jamie her award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
IF YOU CAN’T MAKE IT TO THE STORE IN TIME to take part in a promotion at the Murale in downtown Calgary, there’s no need to worry. As a customer, Jamie will ensure you are aware of every sale, promotion, event, and new product. Along with ensuring she can meet all of your product needs, if you’re having a bad day, Jamie is there to lend an ear. Putting a premium on building close relationships, Jamie is described by those she works with as honest and incredibly true to who she is. They go on to say that she gives the best advice and loves to share her experiences as well as her knowledge with everyone she meets. Never quick to judge, but always quick to help, Jamie stands by the old adage that ‘the customer is always right.’
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CongratulatEs all Cosa nominEEs and award winnErs!
Thank you
For taking the time to give every woman personalized advice. For helping them feel even more beautiful and conďŹ dent. For sharing our passion for the education of beauty.
LISEWATIER.COM
COSA AWARDS 2011 Fragrance Advisor PAT BACHMANN THE BAY, FRAGRANCES WINNIPEG, MB
“I love helping a customer choose a fragrance that they will enjoy and that will create memories for them for years to come.”
Debunking Beauty Myths
Jennifer Bedard, sales director, Canada West, Lise Watier Cosmétiques, presents Pat her award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
in Winnipeg and commented: “Too often in our busy lives we take the time to complain about a product or service, however, rarely do we take the time to commend a product, service, or employee.” The letter further described the superior service that this customer received from Pat Bachmann, and explained how Pat never fails to go above and beyond the call of duty every time she visits the store. With repeat customers like this, sales are inevitable, and Pat has proved that by increasing her department’s sales year after year. An expert in her field, she is passionate about fragrances, and will take the time to explain every last note with anyone who walks through the door. Her enthusiasm translates, and colleagues admit that customers leave the store with more knowledge, excitement, and above all else, the right fragrance.
A CUSTOMER WROTE A LETTER TO THE BAY
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YOUNGER-LOOKING EYES IN 3 HOURS*. The future of age-defying technology has arrived.
RoC
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SUBLIME ENERGY
RoC® SUBLIME ENERGY® harnesses the power of bioelectricity** to produce unprecedented age-defying results. Within 3 hours, the appearance of fine lines will diminish. And with continued use of this revolutionary two-step system, the eye area will be visibly transformed. We’re so confident in the results that we 100% guarantee them†. Ask your drug store beauty advisor about RoC® SUBLIME ENERGY®.
* Clinically proven to deliver the same age-defying results in 3 hours that our traditional eye creams provide in 4 weeks ** In the upper layer of the epidermis †For money-back guarantee please call 1-800-762-1964. UPCs must be submitted within 60 days of purchase. ©Johnson & Johnson Inc. 2012
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Demonstrator DEPARTMENT STORE
RANDY PEEVER PRESTILUX EDMONTON, AB
“I love that people can have fun with me and I work in an environment where I am able to let my personality shine.”
Adrianna Izquierdo, brand manager, RoC Skincare, J&J, presents Randy his award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
that stands out in a crowd, and at The Bay in Southgate Mall, which happens to be the largest Bay store in Edmonton, there’s always a crowd. Randy, according to his colleagues, is a one-of-a-kind, unique and extremely personable individual. His upbeat, go-getter approach to life shines through consistently in his day-to-day demonstrations, and it seems he effortlessly inspires customers to stop and take note of whatever product he happens to be featuring that day. This positive and inviting personality is coupled with a high level of product knowledge, which, as a result, translates into incredible sales results, and a very high percentage of repeat customers. Described by those he works with as “informative, quick on his feet, and a pleasure to be around,” what more could a retailer ask for?
THERE’S ALWAYS THAT ONE UNIQUE INDIVIDUAL
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Congratulations to all the 2011 COSA winners and finalists for your outstanding customer service and contribution to the cosmetics industry in Canada!
COSA AWARDS 2011 Trainer DANNY VENTURA SHOPPERS DRUG MART ABBOTSFORD, BC
“When it comes to my work, I love the variety. Each and every day brings something new!”
Mr. Fujii, president, Shiseido Canada, presents Danny his award.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
WHEN A GROUP OF BEAUTY ADVISORS leave a training session eager to get back to the store to pass on their knowledge to customers and sell the product, as a trainer, you’ve definitely done something right. Danny Ventura is just one such trainer that’s doing everything right. The positive response from those who have attended his sessions was overwhelming. All of the comments highlighted Danny’s ability to not only educate, but also motivate and inspire. One beauty advisor wrote: “Danny takes the time to teach you about the product, the philosophy, and the history of it in the industry. It’s amazing how he can provide so many intricate details, yet present them in a way that is simple, fun, and easy to understand. We all love going to his sessions.”
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COSA AWARDS 2011 Account E xecutive / Sales Rep KATHERINE MACMILLAN CLARINS DARTMOUTH, NS
“I believe that I am a very lucky woman to have the job I that I have, working with the brand that I love.”
Katherine accepts her award from Jonathan Zrihen, president & CEO, Clarins Group North America.
JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
WHEN UNFORTUNATE MISHAPS HAPPEN like
a product running low, or finding out on event day that you’re going to be short-staffed, it’s comforting to know that someone with a solution is just a phone call away. For beauty advisors, Katherine MacMillan is this phone call. Her track record includes working through her summer vacations, driving more than 300 kilometres to drop off stock for an event, and always providing an extra hand at store events. Along with also being the most reliable person to call, Katherine’s colleagues say she is professional, personable, and very passionate about the industry. Coined as a “ten out of ten” who always has a back-up plan, who wouldn’t want to have this account executive on their team?
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November 17, 2011
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royal york hotel, toroNto
Cosa awards 2011
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january 2012 COSMETICS
january 2012 COSMETICS
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L’EAU DE CHLOE LIFTACTIV SERUM 10. THE ULTIMATE ANTI-AGING POWER, WITH 10% RHAMNOSE. 1 drop, 10 min : the lifting effect you’ve been waiting for. Visibly smoothed skin and -10% of wrinkles. In just 1 month : unprecedented anti-wrinkle efficacy. Your skin is transformed like new. January 2012 30 ml – $55.00
Layers of chiffon in bright sunlight. Bare feet brushing long grass. The glow of dawn on the skin. Chloé’s signature scent opens a new chapter in its story. An aura delicate as a breath of fresh air. The Collection: 50 ml eau de toilette $82.00 100 ml eau de toilette $105.00 200 ml body lotion $60.00 200 ml shower gel $55.00 75 ml perfumed hand cream $40.00
NEW LAUNCHES
LUMINYS SILK SATIN WET&DRY BAKED EYESHADOW MARCELLE BB CREAM Innovation! The Ultimate Skin Enhancer 8 in 1 Multi-Benefits Use it as a moisturizer, tinted corrector and makeup base. Especially formulated for Canadian women and offered in 2 self-adjusting shades for all skin types. Retail Price: $22.95 Instore: Early February
The best selling baked eyeshadow by Pupa, in a new, extraordinary satin formula. The formula contains extra fine pearls to guarantee a flawless result. LUMINYS SILK baked eyeshadow can be used dry, for an elegant effect, and wet to get an intense and magnetic colour. Available in 10 ultra glamorous colours.
bourJois paris kHol & contour EyE pEncil sHadoW & ligHt The pencil that can do everything!
bourJois paris rosE Exclusif lipgloss A clear lipgloss that self-adjusts into a unique and personalized pink when applied to the lips! Its non-sticky texture also brings shine and volume to your lips and is enriched with vitamins E and C to provide 8 hours of moisture for maximum comfort.
With its double tip, the dark and matte shade structures and intensiďŹ es the eyes with its highly concentrated pigment content. The light shade catches the light and opens up the gaze thanks to its high shimmer concentration. Shadow & Light offers long wear and comfort, lasting up to 16 hours!
So, what will be your pink?
3 Shades: 11 Noir & Neige, 13 Brun & Caramel, 15 Kaki & Vanille.
Retail price: $20 Exclusively at select Shoppers Drug Mart and Murale stores across Canada.
Retail price $18. Exclusively at select Shoppers Drug Mart and Murale stores across Canada
NEW LAUNCHES
EudErminE rEvitalizing EssEncE: a cElEbratEd skincarE staplE for ovEr 100 yEars First launched in 1897, Eudermine has remained a customer favourite over an extraordinary period of time, with an advanced formulation that has remained fundamentally unchanged since its inception. To celebrate Shiseido’s 140th Anniversary in 2012, this luxury product will be introduced at all Shiseido counters across Canada in January (SRP $78).
The Fragrance awards will take place next year on April 26, 2012 at the Metro Toronto Convention Center in Toronto.
Success Story
by Heather Buchan
“The customer’s whole impression of Shiseido may be formed as a result of my actions,” says Shiseido’s Umebachi. “That’s why I feel my job carries a lot of responsibility.”
Passion Play Beauty consultant Mariko Umebachi dreams of becoming a marketing executive; and at Shiseido, it seems anything is possible.
for mariko umebachi, working as a Shiseido beauty consultant is far more than just a job. It’s a lifelong career and one the soft-spoken japanese cosmetician is immensely passionate about. after all, working for the global beauty brand is a highly coveted position in japan, the country where it was founded more than a century ago. Since joining Shiseido in Osaka, japan eight years ago, Mariko has excelled in every aspect of her role —be it her massage technique, her makeup application, her increasingly comprehensive beauty and brand knowledge and, most importantly, her dedication to her customers and her resolve to be the best at what she does each and every day. “The customer’s initial decision to stop by the Shiseido counter is based on their first impression they have of my smile and attitude,” explains Mariko. “Then their decision to buy a product is based on my service and advice. In fact, their whole 122
impression of Shiseido may be formed as a result of my actions. and that’s why I feel my job carries a lot of responsibility.” During the past eight years, Mariko—who underwent two months of intensive training when she first joined Shiseido —has excelled within the company so much that she was selected out of hundreds of applicants to travel to Canada this past fall as part of Shiseido’s annual overseas beauty consultant program. arriving in September, Mariko spent 40 days in Toronto, visiting various counters around the GTa where she was able to gain valuable experience doing makeup on the broad ethnic base of women that make up Toronto’s population and meet with local beauty consultants and brand managers. “In japan, the complexions are all the same,” she explains. “Here, there are so many.” The biggest surprise about Canadian women for Mariko: the number of requests for nighttime makeup. “We don’t have that in japan,” she says. “The makeup is the same for day and night there.” Mariko was also able to share her beauty experience and knowledge with her Canadian counterparts, something she found very rewarding. “Going beyond uniquely different individual and cultural perceptions of beauty in each country, I want to meet the people in other countries that are choosing and using [our] products. I want to share with as many people as possible my thoughts about the philosophy behind the brand.” The first time Mariko left japan was three years ago when she was selected to travel to new Zealand as part of the same overseas program. “I love to travel,” she says, adding that she would love to go to Europe in the future. Since Shiseido trains in more than 80 countries, the travel opportunities are endless. as for the future, she has her eyes set on a position in the marketing department at Shiseido’s head office. “I would like to work in different departments,” she says, adding, “The work is very fulfilling and it’s also helping me grow as a person. as long as I work for Shiseido, I want to challenge myself in many areas.”
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january 2012 COSMETICS
Scene
P&G Beauty Awards and LG Fashion Week 1. Canadian actress Kim Cattrall hosts the third annual P&G Beauty & Grooming Awards, held at Toronto’s Carlu 2. Kristen Vinakmens, Editor-inChief of Cosmetics, gets a lip touchup at the Lancôme Rouge in Love event 3. From left: Annette Falso, SVP, global product development, Revlon; Gucci Westman, Revlon global artistic director; Revlon nail expert Leeanne Colley; and Cosmetics’s Vinakmens at a Revlon beauty advisor event 4. Smashbox trainer Shaun Hlowatzki demonstrates a makeup look backstage at the Lucian Matis spring show 5. Eddie Malter, official makeup artist for L’Oréal Paris in Canada, perfects a model’s makeup backstage at Vawk at LG Fashion Week 6. The Bay hosts legendary designer Oscar De La Renta for the Live in Love beauty advisor event 7. Thom C. Lachman, president, P&G Canada with Cattrall at the P&G Beauty Awards
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Photo 1: JJ Thompson; photo 7: Vito Amati
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2012 Beauty Calendar : JANUARY / FEBRUARY September 13, 14, 2012: CCTFA Annual Conference & AGM, Queen’s Landing, Niagara-On-The-Lake
June 6 to 8, 2012 : CACDS Annual Executive Conference - Montreal, Que.
*September 17, 2012: Charity Classic
June 8 to 17, 2012 : Luminato, Toronto, Ontario
*November 10, 2012: CCTFA Foundation Ball March 9 to 12, 2012: Cosmoprof, Balogna, Italy
June 14 to15, 2012 : Cosmetic Business, Munich, Germany June 19 to 21, 2012 : HBA Global Expo, New York, N.Y.
April 26, 2012 : Canadian Fragrance Awards, Metro Convention Centre, Toronto
June 23 to 26, 2012 : NACDS Marketplace, Denver, Colorado
April 30 to May 6, 2012 : Canadian Fragrance Week May 4 to 6, 2012 : China Beauty Expo, Shanghai, China
July 22 to 24, 2012 : Cosmoprof North America, Las Vegas, Nevada
May 14 to 16, 2012 : Beautyworld Japan, Tokyo, Japan
November 18, 2012 : 11th Annual COSA Awards, Toronto
* Tentative
Connect with us!
cosmetics EDUCATING CANADA’S BEAUTY EXPERTS www.cosmeticsmag.com
NOVEMBER / DECEMBER 2011
The holiday issue:
Gorgeous Holiday Collections Fashionable Fragrance Launches
Check out our Facebook fan page for the latest industry news, product launches and weekly updates. Follow us on Twitter for real-time updates from our editors as they attend media previews and beauty events both local and abroad.
Canada’s 15 Top Trainers
Join the conversation and become a fan by visiting this link: PM NO. 40070230. RETURN UNDELIVERABLE ITEMS TO: Cosmetics Circulation Department, 7th Floor, One Mt. Pleasant Road, Toronto ON M4Y 2Y5.
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Givenchy’s Enduring Muse
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twitter.com/cosmeticsmag Also, check out our website:
www.cosmeticsmag.com It’s updated daily!
Organizations in the cosmetics, fragrances, toiletries or related industries that want to inform the industry about upcoming special events, exhibitions, conferences, etc., should send information, dates, contact name, address, and telephone and fax numbers to: Calendar of Events Cosmetics magazine One Mount Pleasant Road, 8th floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5 Please note submissions should be made 18 weeks prior to the event to be considered for a listing. 124
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JANUARY 2012 COSMETICS
WIn!
Win This
one of these great beauty prizes
Chanel Jersey
Inspired by cotton jersey which Coco Chanel appropriated from menswear into her women’s fashions, the new women’s scent by jacques Polge draws on typically masculine aromatic lavender, as well as vanilla and musk for an unexpected yet sophisticated fragrance.
Kevin Murphy Mermaid Kit
Create beachy, textured waves in minutes with this kit, which includes Kevin Murphy’s Hair resort Spray to prep hair, Wave Clips to create waves, Pin Clips to lock them in, and a Texture net to secure hair and prevent fly-aways.
WinThis Ballot Name: Address: City:
Vichy LiftActiv Serum 10
This serum is infused with 10% rhamnose, a natural sugar derived from the silver birch. renowned for its anti-aging properties, it’s said to target the derm zone of the skin, which is responsible for regeneration. With its soothing properties, it’s also perfect for sensitive skin types.
Province: Postal Code: Email Address: Telephone: Store/retailer name: Skill-testing question: What does COSA stand for? Would you like to be added to the Cosmetics’ Email Advisory Committee? To enter, mail in this entry form including your name, address, email and telephone number along with the answer to this month’s skill-testing question. Address it to: Cosmetics Magazine Win This Contest, Cosmetics Magazine, 1 Mount Pleasant Road, 8th Floor, Toronto, Ontario, M4Y 2Y5.
Rules: Limit one entry per person. This contest is not open to employees of Rogers Media or those living in Quebec. To be eligible to win, all entrants must correctly answer the skill-testing question. Facsimiles and photocopies are not eligible. Please include your return address on your envelope. The draw will be held on Monday, February 27th, 2012 at 10:00 a.m. at the Cosmetics offices in Toronto. Cosmetics will notify the winner by mail, email or telephone. Cosmetics will then arrange to mail the prizes to the winners. By entering the contest, the winner agrees to have his or her name published in Cosmetics. Cosmetics magazine complies with all privacy laws.
january 2012 COSMETICS
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Publisher’s Report
How can we help make your job easier? i ask myself that question all the time. There must be something more that we can do to help you in your day-to-day activities. So I got to thinking about the number of new product launches you get on your shelves – more than 1,200 new launches each year. Even the best of us would have trouble keeping up with that much newness. I know I do. There also seems to be fewer and fewer trainers these days. Added to that, your time is even more precious: sometimes you may have to miss important training sessions because you can’t find the time to get away from your store or counter. So I’m thinking maybe we should develop product-specific, on-line training videos that would tell you everything you need to know about a new product. These “mini training sessions” would highlight a product’s attributes and benefits, give its unique selling feature, include selling tips and even test your knowledge of the product, all in about four to five minutes. You would be able to visit our website, click on the product video you’re interested in, and get a short training feature in less than five minutes! Does that sound like something that might help make your job a little easier? Can you think of anything else we might be able to do to help you do a better job behind your counter or in your store? Should we be doing something more, something we’re currently not doing, in the print version of the magazine to better educate you? Is there something that, in your opinion, has been lacking in our printed pages? Are you currently using our website to keep you up to speed on what’s going on in the industry? Is there something more you’d like to see on our website that would help you? Are you using mobile apps that you really like or find interesting? We published our first ever Sales Tips Handbook in our last issue – did you find that helpful? I know there are lots of questions this month, but I would love to hear from you about the questions above and anything else that might be on your mind. E-mail me at jim.hicks@cosmetics.rogers.com and tell me what you think. To our amazing beauty experts across Canada: Keep up the great work and have a great winter selling season.
Jim Hicks Publisher, Cosmetics Magazine
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JAnuArY 2012 COSMETICS
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