Coulture Spring/Summer 2018

COULTURE SPRING/SUMMER 2018

Raw

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Kudos to Coulture! We salute and congratulate founding editor Alexandra Hehlen and Remington Remmel - and their brilliant colleagues - for truly"making a difference"!

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nderan a x e l - A Juli

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COULTURE Issue 6

EDITORS-IN-CHIEF Alexandra Hehlen Remington Remmel ASSOCIATE EDITORS Cassandra Cassidy Patrick Rosemond

ART Graphic Design Editors // Macy Abernethy Wyatt Wilt Associate Graphic Design Editors // Anna Bradsher Emily Cunningham Carter Frye PHOTOGRAPHY Photograhy Editors // Alexis Fairbanks Elise Holsonback Associate Photography Editors // Sabah Kadir Addy Liu FASHION & BEAUTY Style Editors // Carson Goodwyn Caroline Pirozzolo Associate Style Editors // Susie Altz Brinson Willis Beauty Editors // Kimberly Baudhuin Sara Rich Associate Beauty Editors // Halee Smith Clara Wong Fashion News Editors // Brianna Kusilek Niki Wasserman Associate Fashion News Editors // Robert Lee Rhinehart Sterling Sidebottom Modeling Directors // Hannah Lee Pambu Kali FEATURES Features Editors // Hannah Lee Chloe Williams Associate Features Editors // Piper Anderson Joseph Held Health Editor // Katie Plampton Associate Health Editors // Elizabeth Beauchamp Carly Christensen Arts Editors // Rachel Greene Micah Stubbs Associate Arts Editors // Claire Ruch Joanna Zhang DIGITAL Social Media Directors // Julia Faulkner Caroline Sink Associate Social Media Director // Delainey Kirkwood MARKETING & PR Marketing Directors // Maggie Berra Sahara Lord Associate Marketing Directors // Renata D’Agrella Maren Garner Yi Ge Kelsey Jackson PR Directors // Sarah Lundgren Sidney Morris Associate PR Directors // Caitlin Mahoney Shephard Sullivan COPYEDITING Copyediting Director // Haley Creech Associate Copyediting Directors // Liz Chen Jordan Zeigler FINANCIAL Financial Directors // Ian Muriuki Juliana Sirois Pallavi Gulati Associate Financial Directors // Garima Tomar JoLynn Smith FACULTY ADVISORS Dana McMahan Chris Roush special thanks to Maia Guterbock

Cyberspace | C | 5

cyberspace READ WHAT’S FRESH AT COULTURE.ORG Uncover fresh, new content created and produced by the Coulture team. Ready to fulfill your fashion, travel and pop culture needs, Coulture generates weekly content, allowing you, our lovely readers, to dig into the quirks of London or the latest in skin care technology, or be inspired by street style from Chapel Hill, to Italy.

MEET THE BLOGGING EDITORS Alex Diotallevi // Blogging Editor “It has taken me a long time to understand that learning to accept yourself for who you are is much more important than wanting others to accept you for someone you are not. I embrace my rawness by reassuring, embracing and loving my authentic self every day.”

Caroline Farrell // Blogging Editor “A tarot reader once told me that it is just as important to maintain a kind relationship with myself, as it is to be kind to others. I embrace rawness in my everyday life by trusting myself, breathing fresh air and creating always.”

Molly Weisner // Associate Blogging Editor “Embracing rawness in daily life means remembering the little things that make us happy, like yellow boots on a rainy day, fresh-baked cookies or a call from an old friend. As college students, small things remind us that not everything is good, but there is good in everything.”

HOW DO YOU EMBRACE YOUR “RAW”?

Our Spring/Summer 2018 issue is all about uncovering rawness, from vulnerable, stripped-down trueness, to rebellious, no-holds-barred loudness. Tell us which raw self you celebrate, honor and embrace each day with the hashtag #myrawcoulture

Instagram: @coulturemag Snapchat: @coulturemag Twitter: @coulturemag Facebook: facebook.com/coulturemagazine coulture.org

Photo courtesy Atlantic Records

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8 | C | Letter From the Editors

Passing the torch

Photographed by Sean T. Bailey / Designed by Macy Abernethy When we came up with the idea to start a fashion magazine, we had no clue it would work. Maybe we were just two crazy people who loved fashion so much that we’d be willing to spend hours at shoots or long nights designing spreads. Our first meeting had two people; the second, five; the next, 10. As our first official staff application opened in the summer of 2015, we were shocked – no, gobsmacked – to see 40 applications flood our system in just a few days.

Coulture started as a dream – a vision to unite the university’s most talented students interested in fashion and lifestyle to produce a magazine that challenges beauty standards. It became much more. On the backs of generous alumni, donors, friends, family and readers, Coulture has become an institution. Today, three years after our initial idea, Coulture stands 180 creative minds strong, operates from our Franklin Street office and studio, and has become a hallmark of the fashion community at UNC-Chapel Hill.

In the spring of 2016, Coulture was incorporated into UNCCH’s new and groundbreaking Workroom: FashionMash program, which prepares students for professional futures in the fashion and lifestyle industry. Without Bill and Leigh Goodwyn – the program’s incredibly generous donors – and the fearless mentorship of Dana McMahan, the program’s director, we would still be operating out of our dorm rooms and styling shoots from our own closets.

This is already our sixth issue, the culmination of years of learning and the beginning of a new leadership team that will take Coulture to greater heights after the two of us graduate. We are proud to say that Coulture has already inspired careers and helped our members land jobs in increasingly competitive industries. This issue builds on our past endeavors.

Raw. It’s a state of vulnerability, of authenticity. It lacks finality, implies the unfinished – it hints at the stretches of endless possibility. Rawness embodies a state of being neither here nor there: it’s undefined, ever-moving, a draft, a moment of truth and honesty. In a way, raw is exactly what Coulture started as and is precisely what we still are as we push the boundaries of ourselves, the print medium and industry standards.

At a time where we increasingly scroll through barrages of filtered photos and we curate our personalities beyond healthy measure, the moment has come for us to strip back the layers we’ve carefully used to conceal ourselves. In our most raw moments we spill our emotions unfiltered, unleash our personalities sans obfuscation, expose vulnerability, scribble wildly into our journals, follow our deepest passions without inhibition, push aside fear and embrace adventure, and just even decide not to give a damn.

To continue pushing the limits of print, we decided to create a double-sided issue about what we see as double-sided theme.

As we see it, rawness supposes an apparent dichotomy. One the one hand, embracing rawness can imply connecting with nature, listening to the body, and valuing honesty with yourself and others. Yet on the other, rawness also connotes rebelliousness, a fearlessness to be your true self, and a drive to chase adventure and aspiration.

Creation is a cyclical process. Whether it is a natural habitat forming life from decay, an artist molding inspiration into that which inspires, or students creating a self-sustaining magazine with peers and friends – the process of creation begins and ends with something raw. That is to say, everything we create is but fodder for

future creations: one’s end product, a piece of art or music, a handcrafted good, a breathtaking garment, is another’s muse.

Our most earnest hope is that Coulture continues inspiring, building and yearning for something more, for years to come.

There is no doubt that leading Coulture has shaped us, and we will fondly carry this experience for the rest of our lives. We often joke that our love for Coulture is similar to that of a parent for a child.

But like a child leaves the home, we must part ways with Coulture.

In most circumstances, this separation would be a cause for great sadness and apprehension. But not today. Over the past year, we have dutifully selected and mentored two beyond-qualified individuals to lead Coulture to its aforementioned “greater heights.” It is with confidence and pride that we leave Coulture in their able hands. To Cassandra and Patrick, we consider ourselves lucky to have worked with you over the past year are flushed with excitement to see what you and the Coulture team accomplish together. Without further ado, we’d like to welcome our new editors-in-chief, Cassandra Cassidy and Patrick Rosemond.

Thank you for reading Coulture; whether you loved it or hated it, whether this is the first or sixth issue you’ve touched, you are Coulture’s raison d’être. Our readers give us purpose, and for that we owe you a debt of gratitude. We sincerely hope you enjoy this issue and find your own way to embrace rawness.

10 | C | CosmĂŠtique

royal rituals Cleopatra, Helen of Troy and Empress Nur Jahan are considered to be some of the most beautiful and revered women in history. Egyptian beauty Cleopatra experienced a daily ritual of bathing in milk and honey for soft and subtle skin. Nur Jahan believed in toning her face with fresh rose water for a dewy glow. Greek Goddess Helen believed in using honey and olive oil for flawless skin. Today, our busy schedules might not allow us to indulge in such luxurious pampering sessions, but we can indulge in a beauty ritual that makes us feel like royalty. Discover our four favorite beauty brands whose products always leave us refreshed and rejuvenated.

Written by Mitva Patel Photographed by Gabrielle Thompson Beauty by Clara Matthews, Rachel Putnam, Shelby Brown & Sophia Ong Modeled by Daniel Odeh, Nicholas Byron, Rachael Everhart & Savannah Sowers Jewelry by Peppertrain Designed by Chrissy Boals

Cosmétique | C | 13

our top spring beauty picks That will leave you with happier, more glowing skin.

RANAVAT BOTANICS Inspired by Indian royals’ skincare rituals and the ancient Indian medicinal practice of Ayurveda, Ranavat Botanics aims to revitalize skincare through botanicals such as ashwagandha, amla and turmeric. Michelle Ranavat, the creator of Ranavat Botanics, believes in connecting people with “pure ingredients, tradition and magical botanicals.” Her line offers products ranging from masques to toniques and body care. The Flawless Veil Illuminating Masque promises to lighten hyperpigmentation and rejuvenate tired complexions through ingredients like wild turmeric, sandalwood and saffron flecks. Ranavat’s Organic Lavender Tonique, made from handpicked Himalayan lavender blooms, invigorates dehydrated skin and acts as a perfect pick-meup for your skin after a long day. Ranavat Botanics guarantees to make you feel royal.

LUSH If you wish you could bathe in rose petals like Cleopatra, you’ll love this company’s Giant Rose Bath Bomb, infused with rose petals and lemon oil. Lush Cosmetics is a Vancouver-based brand that promotes vegetarian, organic and chemical free products, fighting against animal cruelty and promoting sustainable business practices. Lush also established the Charity Pot initiative to support grassroots organizations across the world that aim to create a long-term sustainable change. Treating yourself and spending your money for a good cause? Sounds like a win-win situation.

UMA OILS Used by the likes of Kate Middleton and Hollywood royalty Miranda Kerr, Uma Oils was made for the modern royal woman. Oils are one of the best skincare ingredients, as they penetrate the top layers of the epidermis and improve lipid barrier function much better than their alternative: creams. Uma Oils offers a wide variety of face, hair and body oils, formulated through hand-picked harvests from Uma’s farms in India. Founder Shrankhla Holecek takes pride in her rich heritage, pristine ingredients and family’s centuries of knowledge. Uma’s Absolute Anti Aging Face Oil is used by stars Anne Hathaway and Gwyneth Paltrow, so you know it has to be good. The Anti Aging Face Oil is an exquisite blend of frankincense, rose, lavender and other raw ingredients, all of which promise to tighten your skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

ORIGINS Origins Zero Oil Pore Purifying Toner is the product to end all your pore problems. This toner works to minimize acne-affected pores through its unique blend of Saw Palmetto and Salicylic Acid. Saw Palmetto is a natural ingredient that works as an antiseptic and skin purifier, while salicylic acid fights bacteria on skin to prevent the formation of new acne. In four weeks of using the toner, our team at Coulture saw incredible changes to the texture of their skin. Origins prides itself on using a unique blend of natural and scientific ingredients to help you achieve your best skin. If you still are not convinced, Origins Warm Down Warming Lava Scrub won the “Does a Body Good” CEW Beauty Insider Award in 2017. The scrub promises to decrease muscle tension while detoxifying and soothing your skin through vanilla and spearmint oils. Who needs a palace when you have that?

city chic Designed by Parrish Alto The coolest catwalk is one you can find in any city: the street. Cobblestones and crosswalks are accessible to anyone, offering the perfect backdrop for a showcase of individuality. There’s no better way to showcase the true you than with a powerful outfit, whether it’s those boots that make you strut or that moto jacket that makes you feel like tackling life at full speed. We called for submissions, and you killed it. Students and Coulture fans from all over the globe are taking to the streets in the name of style, and their outfits leave us in an adoring daze.

Joseph Lucido New York, New York @joseph.lucido Photo courtesy Ariana Lucido

City Chic | C | 15

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Joseph Lucido New York, New York @joseph.lucido Photo courtesy Nick Avloshenko Mary Carson Wells St Andrews, Scotland @marycarsonwells Asha Patel (below) Barcelona, Spain @asha_patell

Sidney Regan Glasgow, UK @sidneyregan15

street art

12 34 | C | Arts Feature Photos by Sadie Culberson, self portrait bottom left, sadieculberson.com

Arts Feature | C | 17 Written by Caroline Farrell Designed by Anna Bradsher

LIFE’S EXPOSURES behind the lens and out of frame

Shadows cast by a glass plane, women cloaked in grace and landscapes that unveil the history of now and then. When Sadie Culberson practices photography, she makes her values clear: make peace with the everyday, assess how you feel in the moment and always be present. Her values are equally visible in her photos – evidence that these principles can lead to an inspired, genuine way of life.

Culberson, a 26-year-old fine arts photographer located in Asheville, North Carolina, embraces beauty in mundane, everyday life. Her photographs can be described as calm, simple and abstract, acting as an extension of her curiosity.

They express who she is the moment she takes the photo. Whether it is the reflection of light on glass, the ornamental trim of an old building or the interaction between man and the man-made, Culberson’s attention to detail elevates her photographs and allows the viewer to relish in the scenes captured.

Culberson’s passion and talent in the arts has been apparent since a young age.

“I couldn’t find a single thing that made me as happy as I am when I’m creating things,” said Culberson. “I took that as a sign that I need to just go for it and see what happens if I trust myself a little bit more.” While doubt and fear of inadequacy kept her from pursuing a fine arts degree, she later began to believe in herself and became a selftaught photographer.

Growing up in Northern California as the oldest of four, Culberson cultivated her creativity by dressing up her two younger sisters and staging mini photo shoots. She borrowed her mother’s point-and-shoot camera and edited the images in iPhoto.

For Culberson, it was a fun and simple way to connect and spend time with her sisters. As she entered adolescence, the design and layout of photos displayed on Myspace intrigued and inspired her. For a few years, Myspace became a platform for Culberson to explore photography and design. She now publishes her photos on her self titled online portfolio.

She saved money to purchase her first digital camera when she moved to North Carolina as a first-year student at UNCAsheville. Upon entering college, Culberson discovered an interest in documenting the daily life of university students.

As her work improved, she unearthed a love for exploring the little things that fascinated her but usually went unnoticed by others. Photography provided an opportunity for Culberson to examine and

18 | C | Arts Feature reflect on where she was in life and dissect her many interests at that moment. For her, photography became a space for self-discovery and an opportunity to explore the extension of self, instead of just self-expression.

Culberson’s husband, Nathan, a musician, is often the sounding board for her projects. He tries not to get involved during the early stages of her work so that she feels free to try different ideas without judgment. According to Nathan, Culberson usually takes over a space in the house for a few days where she surrounds herself with different objects, props and vision boards and just plays around until an idea sparks. He says that once an idea for a project has been sketched and mocked up, he provides honest feedback and suggestions. To him Culberson’s work is simple, calm and illuminating, creating a sense of visual harmony that translates not only in her photographs but also in her way of life.

“Within her work, her friendships, the spaces she creates, and her approach to living, she has this awareness that every small detail can affect the larger scope of what’s going on,” he said. “I think it’s most easily seen in her still-life photo work, but the idea that every piece can visually resonate with the rest of the environment to create this experience seems to extend well beyond her various art forms and reveal something about her deeper nature.”

Culberson’s perceptions of beauty broadened and changed over the course of her career, with attention shifting to more natural and realistic scenes with neutral colors such as clay, beige and mossy green. These more grounded images are difficult to create compared to her earlier works, which featured more dramatic colors and edits. Culberson does not necessarily aim to share a deeper message within her work; she is more concerned with figuring out whether her images represent or communicate her curiosity and desire to discover who she is as a person.

A typical work day for Culberson begins with waking up and taking quiet time in the morning to drink tea and journal.

She then responds to emails and schedules her shoots. She catalogs what she has planned and gathers what she needs. Most shoots are organized days or weeks in advance in order to avoid any unnecessary last-minute stress. Even projects done at home require a lot of attention and thought: What will the weather be like? Will the shoot be inside or outside? What props are needed?

Culberson never goes to shoots without a piece of paper full of sketches and ideas – especially if she is photographing with

people because she can freeze in the moment if she feels that her photo subjects are waiting on her. Culberson gives herself space to interact with the subjects, examining light, testing placements and observing shapes. Before taking out her professional camera, she captures practice shots with her phone to test angles and composition. It is nearly impossible to predict the results of each shoot. Even after the photos have been taken, there is no telling what they will look like until the editing process. She shoots in 100 percent natural light, so there is always mystery and chance behind every photo.

Even with all of the planning, some days just are not as productive as others. When this happens, Culberson takes a day or two off to freshen her mind. She will go for walks to help her reflect and gather her thoughts, and she said her best ideas emerge when she is by herself. To get her creative juices flowing, she will rearrange furniture, dance or sing; all activities where there are no wrong answers. As a self-professed people pleaser, Culberson finds it hard to ignore everyone’s voices in her head telling her what to do in order to succeed.

“I feel like those are all on repeat nonstop and it gives me anxiety and I kind of lose sight of what I’m doing,” she said.

“But when I turn my phone off and just go arrange in my house and turn music on, it makes life a lot more simple again.”

Life as a professional artist can be a little erratic. “It’s not very easy or consistent,” Culberson confesses. “You have to be pretty self-motivated and organized. But I enjoy those things; every day is different.”

She enjoys the spontaneity and newness that each day and each project brings.

However, balancing different jobs and wearing many different hats such as therapist, artist and camera technician, as she said, is a requirement. Working as a freelance artist, as with many freelance professions, depends on the schedule and lifestyle of the person working.

Since she lives simply, she can photograph full-time; however, she warns that might not work for everyone.

Culberson suggests that each person must determine the kind of artist they want to be and run a business catered to their own style.

Clients range from a sustainable clothing line such as Two Fold Clothing – based in Charlotte – to a dentist’s office. Culberson is able to translate people’s visions into photos that both the client and she enjoys. This is the characteristic she said is most helpful when collaborating for weddings and other photoshoots.

A self-professed people pleaser, Culberson said it can be difficult to create

images that both satisfy what her clients want and still resonate with her own artistic vision. Luckily, Culberson receives many of her commissions through social media, so most of her clients already know and love her photos and often share the same aesthetic ideals. This allows her to create stronger relationships with the people she collaborates with, many of whom she now considers her friends.

Securing work through social media can be difficult for someone in their 20s.

It is easy to look at social media and assume that every 26-year-old has their life figured out. Culberson is not necessarily honest on social media. “I have a hard time knowing how honest to be on platforms like that,” she said. She stays grounded by reminding herself that it is okay not to have all the answers. She allows herself to be content with where she is now.

She believes that worrying about lining up with society’s expectations of where she should be in life prevents her from learning and discovering her passions.

“IT IS OKAY NOT TO HAVE ALL THE ANSWERS” Culberson’s motivators are her art teachers because they were incredibly supportive and encouraging. They reminded her of her talent and ability as an artist. One high school teacher bought Culberson’s first piece of art. They were the ones who helped her believe she could be successful as an artist.

The biggest inspiration in Culberson’s life, however, is her grandmother, a fiber artist who recently relocated from California to Asheville. She travels the country to teach spinning, knitting and felting. She taught Culberson that it is never too late to change careers and passions. Culberson’s grandmother encourages her to follow her curiosity and accept her ever-changing future.

“There is nothing you have to have figured out within a certain age,” said Culberson, who learns from her grandmother’s life. “You can do what you need to do.” It is important to Culberson that no matter what she does, she is enjoying it. “She has fun with what she does,” she said. “I like that you can be really good at something and also not take it too seriously.” Culberson does not feel confined to one craft, and she predicts a career change at some point in her life.

Whether that be to graphic or interior design, she plans to continue channeling her creative energy.

Arts Feature | C | 19

20 | C | Connect

live lighter Written by Caroline Farrell Designed by Emily Cunningham Picture a world void of unnecessary waste; each item and each product has a purpose, and nothing goes to a landfill. Imagine knowing that your purchases won’t affect the livelihood of villages in South Asia, or keep families in California from breathing.

Carol Hee, Clinical Associate Professor of Strategy and Entrepreneurship at UNC-Chapel Hill, wants consumers to consider what cost is “borne by the bigger globe” when some companies release chemicals into our water and dump product wastes into our communities.

Hee began her career as a scientist, hoping to inspire others to protect the earth, then worked for the Environmental Protection Agency to help write environmental policy and now collaborates with businesses to reduce their environmental impact. She has learned that advocating for even the smallest changes can make a huge impact, citing Walmart’s 5% package reduction mandate, that required companies to reduce their packaging in order to sell at the chain, as an example. Hee remains optimistic that eventually we’ll “get to the point where we won’t burn coal and we won’t make plastic straws and other things where the benefit doesn’t outweigh the cost.”

“EACH YEAR NATIONS GENERATE 1.3 BILLION TONS OF WASTE” According to a 2016 LA Times article, “that’s expected to soar to 4 billion tons by 2100.” The amount of waste produced increases every year and will continue to until we become more cognizant of our impact on the environment. Much of the trash that sits in landfills is recyclable, compostable or just unnecessary. Increased awareness could prevent waste from polluting waters, parks and neighborhoods, while building a better relationship with the environment and all its resources.

As a consumer, it is important to think holistically and thoroughly consider the impact a simple decision might have on the environment. These choices can carry a lot of weight in our communities and around the globe. Polluted air from China can affect the air quality in California, and the smartphones we often throw away are dangerously taken apart by workers in developing countries.

Stephanie Monmoine, a UNC-CH student, heads an advocacy committee within the environmental honors fraternity, Epsilon Eta, aimed at helping local restaurants reduce waste and become more sustainable. “(Our waste) doesn’t just disappear,” Monmoine said. “It ends up somewhere on this earth in landfills, the stomachs of animals, or in the air or water as pollution.”

Being waste free is a commitment, but ultimately the choices we make do have the potential to positively impact the environment.

Reducing the amount we consume – whether it’s packaged food, clothing or electronics – can make a huge difference in the carbon footprints we each create. We must be thoughtful about where waste goes and let that global awareness motivate us to reduce the amount of junk we throw away. We must consider how a product’s life can be extended and whether it can be reused once it has lost shelf life. Here are five ways to do your part.

THRIFT SHOP Shopping secondhand is better for the environment because it extends the life cycle of material that would have otherwise ended up in landfills. Hee suggests donating old clothes to local community thrift shops; you can support causes important to your community and give worn items another home.

EAT LESS MEAT The amount of water required for the crops to feed the animals we consume contributes to a large portion of our waste. It is possible to get enough protein and nutrients from plant-based sources, such as wild rice, beans and kale. Even cutting meat consumption by just one day a week makes a huge difference.

According to a 2009 article in the Huffington Post, “If every American skipped one meal of chicken per week and substituted vegetarian foods instead, the carbon dioxide savings would be the same as taking more than half a million cars off of U.S. roads.”

COMPOST FOOD SCRAPS UNC’s composting program turns students’ food waste into fertilizer for campus landscaping, reducing the need for artificial fertilizer.

EDUCATE YOURSELF The informed consumer plays a powerful role in influencing trends and deciding what should be deemed important to manufacturers and policymakers.

BRING YOUR OWN PACKAGING Shop with reusable cloth bags and try buying in bulk with mason jars. Instead of using plastic water bottles, invest in a reusable bottle. Use tupperware and a lunchbox instead of plastic and brown paper bags. Be more aware of the packaging on your favorite products and question whether it is necessary.

Contention | C | 21

combating consumerism for healthier, happier minds and wallets Written by Rachel Greene Designed by Sally Dillon When was the last time you decided to treat yourself as an act of self-care?

For many people, it was probably within the last week, two at the most. After all, it is becoming increasingly easy to justify making small, and not-so-small, purchases. Maybe you had a stressful week, or just turned in a major assignment and pick up that new lipstick you have had your eye on.

Self-care is having a moment. Some may attribute it to the “Parks and Recreation” episode that popularized the idea of treating yourself — although, we forget that “Treat Yourself Day” was an annual holiday. Others may trace self-care to the tumultuous political climate and the need to self-soothe in an era of the 24-hour news cycle.

Either way, notions of self-care are conflated with consumerism, and the companies we love have caught on.

The beauty industry is particularly skilled in using this to their advantage.

They have enlisted the help of social media influencers — bloggers, vloggers and gurus with tens of thousands of followers — to help sell new, trendy products. Marketing is outsourced, giving consumers a sense of familiarity and authenticity that is not captured in a traditional advertisement.

Excess consumerism and waste also has a significant environmental impact. Plastic from packaging contributes to the trillions of pieces of garbage that are endangering our marine life and exacerbating climate change. Sorry to be a bummer.

Self-care is a necessary and healthy part of being a person — and is it important to recognize how many ways there are of practicing it. Although shopping is not inherently bad, there are plenty of ways to cultivate a healthier and more sustainable approach to caring for yourself.

HERE ARE A FEW IDEAS 1. Step away from social media. If you would rather not take the plunge, curate your following list to only include the people whose updates you truly want to see.

2. Push yourself to do something you have been thinking about doing — whether it be hiking, working out (classes are free on campus!) or trying out a new recipe.

3. Doing something new will give you a sense of fulfillment.

4. Forgive yourself more often. This is easier said than done, but taking a moment when you get frustrated to think about whether you would treat a friend like you treat yourself can be a powerful step forward.

5. Step away from homework or other responsibilities to indulge in your favorite magazine or chapter of a book.

6. Take a few moments to tidy up (or go full Marie Kondo!) — you’d be surprised how much even picking clothes off the ground can elevate your mood.

7. Narrow your beauty and skincare routine down to your “holy grail” products. Sanitize any barely-used products that haven’t expired, and donate them to local women’s shelters.

8. Check out free apps like Breathe+ that focus on breathing techniques for relaxation and stress reduction.

the

SCENIC ROUTE Written by Alexandra Hehlen & Patrick Rosemond Photographed by Addy Liu, Gabrielle Thompson, Nash Consing and Sabah Kadir Styled by Brinson Willis, Caroline Pirozzolo, Carson Goodwyn and Suzie Altz Beauty by Clara Matthews and Emmy Smith Modeled by Joanna Zhang, Layla Namak, Maia Guterbock and Meghan Brickner Designed by Emily Cunningham

We always say that the best way to discover a place is to wander off the beaten path, to get lost before looking at a map or planning a way to go. Taking the scenic route – whether it be with your friends or on your own – can give you the most authentic and fresh look at the world around you. This semester we trekked to the Blue Ridge Mountains to lose ourselves in the forests, wind and rivers. We came home feeling refreshed. Next time you go somewhere, try it.

Sometimes walking the extra mile will open your eyes just that much more.

SATURDAY SUN DOWN TO THE WIRE (right) Blazer Free People; Jeans Urban Outfitters; Necklace Peppertrain

Photo Feature| C | 25

26 | C | Photo Feature

HOURGLASS (left) Jumpsuit Anthropologie; Necklace Peppertrain WIND-KISSED (center) Shirt & Skirt Urban Outfitters; Necklace Peppertrain

GONE WITH THE WIND Dress Urban Outfitters; Jacket Anthropologie; Necklace Peppertrain

GREEN QUEENS

GREAT ESCAPE

30 | C | Style Feature

the

FUR feud

Written by Caroline Sink Photographed by Elise Holsonback Designed by Lyric Lin

B

e kind to all that lives” is the mantra that faux fur designer Emma Brewin adopts when she’s designing her animal-friendly clothing line. It’s also a mantra we all should think about as we go about our day-to-day lives.

Many fashion houses that have used fur in previous collections, such as Gucci, Stella McCartney and Armani, have gone fur-free in the past few years, hoping to encourage other companies to do the same. While some agree that this is a step towards a more sustainable world, there are still many other individuals and brands who support the fur industry.

One such proponent of crafting with real fur is Frank Zilberkweit, director of the British Fur Trade Association.

“When you make a faux fur, you are making a petrochemical product that is not biodegradable,” Zilberkweit said. “Our industry is about raising animals in a natural way, a kind way and it’s a renewable resource.”

Although it’s true that creating synthetic fur emits chemicals, there is a counter-argument that says chemicals used to treat real animal fur are just as harmful to the environment as those used in the production of faux fur.

Using fur for clothing dates back to ancient Egypt and Elizabethan England, when kings

Style Feature | C | 31 and queens adorned themselves in leopard skins and miniver fur on a regular basis.

During these times, only the wealthiest in the community would be seen in fur, but following World War II and the fall of old-school social hierarchy, fur trickled down into the hands and shopping bags of the upper-middle class.

Even though there is still a market for true animal fur, the emergence of synthetic fur has made it easier for people to be more animal-friendly without sacrificing style. Thanks to today’s technological advancements, faux fur mirrors the richness and beauty of real fur.

No matter where you stand on the issue, it is worth looking at alternatives to fur. It’s crucial to be conscientious of how your clothes are made, and more importantly, realize that every piece of clothing you wear has an effect on the environment.

There are plenty of faux fur brands, but some that have gained popularity and praise for their designs are Shrimps and Jakke. These brands, among others, use the material in imaginative ways to show the infinite ways faux fur can be used in the design process. Faux fur, which is sturdier than real fur, allows the designers to have more creative freedom in the colors, patterns and prints they use in their designs.

Shrimps, a British fashion label created

by Hannah Weiland, is best known for its playful and delicate faux fur pieces. When it comes to designs, Weiland does not keep it simple. Many of her designs feature abstract figures, lace-trimmed collars or plaid. Her fresh designs have even caught the eyes of celebrities like Alexa Chung, Georgia May Jagger and Poppy Delevingne.

Weiland studied at the London College of Fashion, where she designed her first faux fur jacket and learned techniques that are still prevalent in her designs today. The versatility of Weiland’s designs can be seen through her color selections, consisting of colors one would not find on an animal, but rather a bubblegum wrapper. Her designs incorporate sky blues, dreamy pale pinks and electric lime greens that only Weiland could create so elegantly.

Many people may believe faux fur is merely a part of “fast fashion,” but brands like Shrimps believe that faux fur is here for the long run.

“Faux fur, which has also been associated with cheapness in the past, is now discussed in terms of degrees of quality and luxuriousness,” Weiland said in a 2015 Op-Ed. New innovations allow for manufacturers to simulate the plush feeling of animal fur and translate that into synthetics, and the product is by no

means less luxurious.

Another fashion label on the rise for its usage of faux fur is British label Jakke. This brand was named PETA’s “Best Faux Fur Brand” at the 2017 PETA Fashion Awards. Jakke— “jacket” in Scandinavian—is known for its overtly garish and outlandish creations. Many of the designs are covered in striking colors and cartoon-esque motifs.

Some of their most popular designs consist of black coats with patterned flames, white coats covered in bananas, and neon green coats. These colors and patterns maintain the brand’s hallmark voice; there is no doubting who their designer is.

Jakke has erased stereotypes of old women being the predominant owners of fur coats. Jakke’s jackets have youth written all over them. The brand’s aesthetic transports its wearers back to the ‘70s and ‘80s, the time period from which Jakke receives the most inspiration.

“I have the ideal Jakke girl in my head and I imagine all of the things that go on in her life,” said Nina Hopkins, Jakke’s Creative Director. “For example; Where does she travel? Where does she work and like to socialize? Each season I design a collection that I think she’d love to wear during these activities.”

Hopkins imagines what an average customer enjoys doing on a daily basis, and through those ideas, weaves their stories through her designs. As a result, customers can take that experience and create their own adventures as they wear the jackets.

Not only does Jakke not use fur, but the brand also refrains from using any silk, leather or wool, making their designs entirely vegan and cruelty-free. Each jacket ordered comes with a removable patch on the sleeve that says “Free From Fur,” so the wearer can proudly display their allegiance to a cruelty-free lifestyle.

With most coats retailing for less than $300, this is a great brand for those who want to be conscious of what they wear, but cannot afford to drop a pretty penny on brands like Shrimps.

A brand that not only specializes in oversized faux fur coats but playful synthetic fur accessories is aforementioned Emma Brewin, CEO of her self-named company.

In addition to making the coats feel like they’re straight out of 1920s Hollywood, Brewin creates faux fur bowler hats, pom pom earrings and bucket bags. These designs have been seen on stars like Lena Dunham, Rita Ora and Kylie Jenner.

Brewin handmakes these hats in her own studio in a small town in southeast England. The craftsmanship can be seen

in the high quality of her hats, which she tries to make as fluffy as possible with a special technique — sewing hundreds of tiny, handmade fur balls into each one.

The aesthetic of the brand is very nostalgic and dreamlike, with simple designs that come in a multitude of colors such as yellow, light blue and chocolate brown. Brewin’s designs are more similar to the designs of traditional fur outerwear with large, floor-length silhouettes.

Unlike 1920s Hollywood, Brewin’s collections always prove her diligence to saving animals. On top of helping cut down the usage of fur in the fashion industry, Brewin is devoted to saving the bees. She entitled her latest collection “be kind to all that lives,” and part of the proceeds from her latest collection will be donated to the Bumblebee Conservation Trust, an organization devoted to conserving bumblebees and their habitat.

“The destruction of the wild and all that lives in it is a fear that overcomes my existence, and I guess I project that emotion into everything I do. I’m very lucky to be in a position whereby I can raise awareness and money for what I care about and what I believe in,” Brewin said.

All three of these brands are devoted to something bigger than their profits or reputations. They are creating animalfriendly clothing without sacrificing the luxuriousness and quality of a typical fur jacket. Just because a jacket is made out of synthetic fibers does not mean you should feel cheap wearing it — these are no longer your grandmother’s coats.

“THESE ARE THE COATS OF THE MODERN ERA AND THE COATS OF OUR GENERATION” Your grandmother may have only been confined to wearing these in the winter months, but these brands are proving that fur jackets are not restricted to a season.

What’s the fun in limiting these clothes to only a few months out of the year? Go to the beach and take your Shrimps jacket with you. Stroll through the neighborhood park clad in your favorite Emma Brewin hat. Incorporate these offbeat jackets and accessories into your everyday wardrobe.

If you’re going to be bold and daring, you might as well spread awareness, too.

Rev olu tions

B L A C K

W O M E N

Rev ela tions

A N D

N A T U R A L

H A I R

Written by Ruth Samuel / Photographed by Sabah Kadir / Designed by Zoe Hambley

I

n 2015, 23-year-old Angolan Maria Borges was the first black Victoria’s Secret Angel to sport her natural hair on the runway. She was the first model I had ever seen wear natural hair in that setting. I felt so empowered, I couldn’t help but gaze in awe at the pictures the next day, watching Borges display her dark curls for all to see, knowing that she was subjecting herself to potential backlash.

Yet, she emerged unscathed.

While the fashion industry has tried to create a more inclusive environment that appeals to a wider range of consumers, there is an eternal aura of eurocentricity.

Pippa Christian, a 24-year-old black, female model from the United Kingdom, reminded us all of this in March of 2017.

She noted via Twitter that casting calls such as “Hair type: all except afro” are still used to recruit models today. These beauty standards that cater solely to European ideals, such as a preference for silky hair and lighter skin, also extend into our everyday lives.

A “Good Hair Study” conducted by Perception Institute asked 4,000 people to take an online word-association test with different pictures of black women, switching between women with smooth hair and women with natural hair.

National Public Radio picked up the story and reported that white women rated natural hair to be “less professional” than smooth/straight hair. For many black women entering or in the workforce, this poses a question. Do they want this job

so badly that they are willing to hide their true self to get it?

Although there is so much one can do with black hair, why we style it is just as important as how. Are black women getting relaxers in order to conform to the world around us or simply because we desire to try a new look? Are these decisions motivated by submission or by our own volition? Above all else, it is imperative that black women embrace who we are despite what is defined as “beautiful” and “acceptable” in modern society.

In the words of Audre Lorde, “Caring for myself is not self-indulgence, it is selfpreservation, and that is an act of political warfare.” However, when no one knows how to “deal with” your hair and stylists refuse to learn, this mission looks bleak.

This is what began black women’s search for their own communities, from natural hair festivals in Brooklyn, New York, to right here in Chapel Hill.

Yes Her Studio, an on-campus braiding salon and lifestyle beauty brand, was founded in 2014 by four UNC students: Elaine Dodoo, Kenya Lee, Nykeya King and Destinie Pittman. Currently all age 21, the girls and I sat in their in-house studio in Rams Village to discuss the process of coming to terms with natural hair texture, as well as the broader implications it has had in our society.

Initially, Elaine and her friends just wanted to learn how to take care of one another’s hair using protective styles (styles that protect the ends of your hair

from the elements of weather, exposure, etc.), but they noticed there was nowhere in the campus’ vicinity that catered to black hair. Their handiwork spoke for itself, and by word-of-mouth, a business grew from their hobby.

“In our freshman year, we decided to

Caught Our Eye | C | 33 basically take protective styling into our own hands and we taught ourselves how to do it,” Lee said. “Other black women around campus began to notice and were like, ‘Oh my gosh, where’d you get your hair done? I’m really feeling this!’ And that’s kind of where the name ‘Yes Her’ came from because you see someone and you’re looking at them like, ‘Yes, outfit!

Yes, hair! Yes HER!’” For each of these four women, natural hair represents something different.

“For me, going natural means to decolonize the eurocentric standards of beauty and to reclaim our sense of self and self-worth by embracing our natural hair,” Dodoo said. “It’s not only personal but it’s also political, and both go hand-in-hand.”

Freeing their natural texture didn’t come without some microaggressions from members of both black and white communities. Another misconception is that this natural hair movement is merely “a phase.” The girls cited numerous occasions when they wore their natural hair to go out in public and people would ask, “Did you really walk out of the house like that?”

Eventually, each woman came to the conclusion that self-care and acceptance was the top priority. “I think the biggest revelation that I had was that it’s not always going to be convenient to hide my hair. It’s probably more convenient for me to just love it. I just had to kick myself in the ass and start accepting my hair for the way it was,” admitted King.

Destinie confronted the honest truth as she was chopping off her relaxed hair.

“My conclusion was that this is what I am supposed to look like,” Pittman said.

“Here’s what I was meant to look like and I wasn’t supposed to have straight hair.”

Analogous to self-love is the concept of physical touch as a form of intimacy with oneself.

“Ultimately, there’s something about touch that is very personal, and touching hair is a love language itself,” Lee said. “As a black woman, when you allow someone to braid and take care of your hair, it’s a way of saying, ‘I trust you.’”

In that trust lies the purpose and intention of Yes Her. “We like to call Yes Her a lifestyle beauty brand because at the core of what we do, we promote a sense of self-love and selfcare and a sense of sisterhood,” Dodoo said. “So when you walk into the studio it’s just black women being raw and real with one another.”

The culture, community, love and strength that lies in black women being genuine and liberating their natural hair is the very thing that our world—a world full of materialistic and artificial tendencies— needs more of.

34 | C | Workroom: FashionMash

decoding fashion milanes

e

ciao italia

Written by Alexandra Hehlen Designed by Wyatt Wilt The two days at the Decoded Fashion Milan summit are some of the most information-packed, epiphany-inducing days of my year. In Nov. 2017 I had the opportunity to attend the conference through the UNC School of Media and Journalism’s Workroom: FashionMash program. The smell of fresh Italian coffee filtered through the air as the first few conference-goers filed into the space. There was a palpable buzz – the people here were ready to learn and network.

The summit is an authority on fashion’s “next big thing,” bringing together some of the industry’s brightest minds to share insights on the technological advances and challenges that will shape the future of fashion. We heard from the likes of Riccardo Pozzoli (co-founder of The Blonde Salad), Instagramfamous fashion designer Fausto Puglisi and many more.

Decoded Fashion seamlessly blends the topics of digital, data, emerging tech, sustainability, culture and craftsmanship. They are all intertwined and increasingly will be as the fashion industry shape-shifts with changes in our attention spans and digital savvy. Consumers today hunger for content, for newness, for uniquity. We want what we want now. Consumers today are on an “ageless quest for fun,” as one of the speakers, Annamaria Tartaglia of 24 Ore Business School, said at the start of the conference.

Here are my key conference takeaways. Hopefully they’ll inspire you to dream of how we’ll be creating “fun” in fashion in the years to come and give you a glimpse of the many challenges on the ever-changing road ahead.

key takeaways The definition of luxury is changing. Today, luxury is more geared towards millennials who see superiority in fitness and wellness as the ultimate marker of luxury.

In the Middle East, some millennials are forsaking big brands. Instead, they’re shopping with local brands that have a new take on traditional clothing, according to Ajlan Nihat Gun, the vice president of digital commerce for Al Tayer Retail.

We have to get used to the fact that sustainable items cost more. They just do. The fabrics are pricier, and workers are paid fair wages. “On the one hand we want sustainability, but on the other hand, we won’t accept the costs,” Marenzi said.

Attention spans keep shortening. “If we gain a view of three seconds on our video on Instagram, we are celebrating in the company,” said Tommaso Saroni, the digital director of PR and social for Adidas Group Italy.

Saroni mentioned that Adidas can only create digital strategies a few months in advance because digital/online behavior is changing so quickly.

Photos courtesy Alexandra Hehlen and Fabian Middelmann

dana’s tea party Written & Photographed by Alexandra Hehlen Set Design by Joelle McMahan Walk into the Workroom: FashionMash space this semester, and you’re bound to hear animated conversation.

“Maybe we could replace the ceiling tiles with mirrors,” or “let’s build a giant jewelry box you can sit in” are snatches of conversation as the creative juices begin to flow. The best part? We, the students, have the opportunity to bring these wild projects to life.

“I worked alongside my father all my life, and he can build anything,” said Dana McMahan, the director of the Workroom: FashionMash program, which provides hundreds of students each year with the opportunity to take hands-on fashion and lifestyle branding courses. As a professor and creative director extraordinaire, McMahan is steadfast in the belief that if we can dream it, we can build it. And somehow, we always do.

McMahan’s projects are always a wonderland of creative chaos (you can’t make something great without making a mess first, right?). The process involves twists and turns, crazy ideas, a team of amazing people, and – her favorite – tools. Yet the final product is always elevated, polished and breathtaking. Our classes fondly call this entire creative operation “Dana’s Tea Party.”

McMahan’s courses include Workroom FashionMash: Experiential Marketing, Art Direction and Product Design – all of which help prepare students for professional pathways that require portfolios and hands-on experience.

“For people who love creative work, the thing you always look forward to is seeing a project come to life and to share it,” McMahan said. “Thinking with your hands forces you to look at all the different dimensions of a problem.” By including students from any major and year, the largely teamwork-based courses rely on diverse opinions and creative viewpoints to craft solutions for different clients each semester. Clients have included Burt’s Bees, American Eagle Outfitters, and Margaux NY shoes. This year’s client is the largest so far—Cartier.

Last fall, students in Experiential Marketing created an installation about the history of Cartier. This semester, McMahan’s Product Design students are designing and prototyping an apparel line for Cartier. Her Art Direction and Creative advertising students are creating fashion films, Instagram campaigns and marketing materials.

Students from all her courses are working in conjunction to vamp up the existing installation and build a showroom for the clothing pieces. All this work culminates in a brand presentation on April 21 for Cartier Communications Director Emmanuelle Walle and a collection of fashion industry leaders. To top off the day, the Workroom: FashionMash club has organized a launch event that includes a fashion show for the general public.

For us students, the opportunity to work for such a large brand gives us creative freedom and pushes us to improve our work. Every step of the way, McMahan is always there.

“The learning is in the process, but in the end, it’s fun to make something beautiful,” McMahan said. “I want this to be the ‘something else’ in a student’s day.”

36 | C | Cityscape

MARVELS of MEXICO CITY

Written by & Photo Courtesy Sarah Holley Designed by Maddie Stevens

High spirits, culinary brilliance and uninhibited cultural expression: enter Mexico City, the largest metropolitan area in the Western Hemisphere. Founded by the Aztecs in 1325 and redesigned by the Spaniards two centuries later, Mexico City is a unique urban center whose culture blends indigenous and European roots. The city is an artistic and historical hub. It not only boasts one of the largest museum collections in the world, but also contains a sprawling network of streets filled with valuable works. As you wander through the Zรณcalo, or city center, you will see ancient archaeological sites juxtaposed with grandiose Spanish churches. From installation pieces to graffiti, art appears in hotels, alleyways and nearly any place imaginable. Whether you are in the mood to shop, dine, celebrate or just enjoy the moment, Mexico City is ripe for adventure.

What to do In a metropolis like Mexico City, attractions are mere steps away from most hotels. Climb the pyramids of Teotihuacán, an ancient civilization whose origins are mysterious, yet captivating. Examine Olmec, Aztec and Mayan treasures at the National Museum of Anthropology. Celebrate at a festival or concert in the Zócalo, a massive city square that serves as both a gathering place and center of government. Aside from the popular tourist locations, mercados (street markets) dispersed throughout the city stimulate the senses with color, music and mouth-watering aromas.

From the gorgeous pre-colonial architecture of San Ángel and Coyoacán to the contemporary cityscape of Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City offers immeasurable excitement.

Where to shop When it comes to traditional shopping, the mercados in Coyoacán and San Ángel offer a vast collection of unique gifts, while districts such as Polanco and Santa Fe contain malls and department stores for shoppers seeking luxury items. the contemporary cityscape of Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City offers immeasurable excitement.

What to see Two of Mexico City’s finest destinations are the Angel of Independence and Chapultepec Castle. The Angel of Independence was a gift from France commemorating 100 years of Mexican independence. Like many parts of the city, it embodies the blend of European and indigenous ways of life.

Similarly impressive is Chapultepec Castle; situated in the center of the largest metropolitan park in the world, the castle provides stunning visual representations of Mexico’s national history. Most notably, the castle honors six teenage military cadets known as the Niños Héroes, or Kid Heroes, who died while defending it from invading U.S. troops in 1847.

Where to eat, drink & party

Street stands provide quality meals for less than five U.S. dollars, as well as traditional Mexican snacks and desserts, such as obleas (thin wafers sandwiched with honey and pumpkin seeds). Elegant yet affordable restaurant options in the Zócalo include La Casa de las Sirenas, El Mayor and Cafe Tacuba, all offering impeccable service. Coffee shops are scattered throughout the city. In districts like Polanco, you can sit on a terrace in a park while enjoying a cup of coffee or tea. If you’re in the mood for something stronger, Jardín Chapultepec in the Condesa district is a good place to grab a drink with friends. When in doubt, ask a local for recommendations. Club life in Mexico City begins at midnight and lasts until morning. La Santa in Polanco and Americana in Juarez play vibrant Latin dance music and rarely become too crowded. Note that many clubs in Mexico City discourage casual wear.

Final tips Some insider advice: Stay hydrated, wear sunscreen and take it easy until you adjust to the city’s high altitude. The spring season’s mild temperatures make it the best time to visit. Additionally, sarcasm is a basis of Mexican humor; try not to let jokes offend you, as they rarely stem from ill intent. Most importantly, take time to appreciate the eclectic beauty of Mexico City. Coffee shops are scattered throughout the city. In districts like Polanco, you can sit on a terrace in a park while enjoying a cup of coffee or tea. If you’re in the mood for something stronger, Jardín Chapultepec in the Condesa district is a good place to grab a drink with friends. When in doubt, ask a local for recommendations.

38 | C | Health Feature

RAW

The holistic way to rejuvenate your health Written by Carly Christensen Designed by Heather Grace

W

hat’s the first thing you do when you get sick? Most people scrounge through the medicine cabinet looking for cough medicine or throat spray, but an increasing number of people have started closing their cabinets,

opting for holistic medicine instead.

According to the American Holistic Health Association (AHHA), holistic medicine is defined as “the art and science of healing that addresses the whole person – body, mind, and spirit”.

One of the pillars of holistic and alternative medicine is re-establishing the body’s equilibrium. This idea dates back to the fourth century BC and the work of Hippocrates, the father of medicine.

Hippocrates placed a strong emphasis on

Health Feature | C | 39 healing through nature and supporting the body’s natural repair processes.

Over the last decade, alternative medicine has grown in popularity due to increasing opposition to the harsh sideeffects of treatments like chemotherapy and radiation. Individuals with serious illnesses often incorporate alternative practices into their treatments in order to detoxify their bodies. Alternative medicine can be used in preventative medicine practices, too, such as chakra healing or raw vegan diets, but its central message remains the same: making you feel better from the inside out.

To heal the body, some holistic practitioners prescribe a raw vegan diet. The foundation of raw veganism is not consuming any animal products or cooked foods—a daunting yet viable method of living. Veganism doesn’t have to happen over night. One of the first and most common steps to becoming a raw vegan is eliminating processed and refined foods from your diet. This helps cleanse the body of the preservatives and chemicals used in food processing.

Most processed foods contain added sugar, which Harvard Health studies have shown increases in the likelihood of diabetes and cardiovascular disease.

By removing processed foods, the body is able to re-establish its equilibrium.

Many health professionals recommend products that are either fresh, such as vegetables or fruits, or have ingredients you can pronounce.

A typical vegan/vegetarian diet is high in dietary fiber, essential vitamins, and nutrients like calcium and magnesium.

In addition to providing lots of nutrients, a vegan diet has been shown to reduce the risk for health-related complications like cardiovascular disease and type two diabetes, as noted by Winston J. Craig, Professor of Nutrition at Andrews University. A vegan diet doesn’t mean living off of potatoes and bread—rather, it’s about shifting the perspective towards choosing healthy fruits, vegetables and grains to balance your diet.

After slowly eliminating certain foods from our diet, becoming a raw vegan isn’t that bad. When someone chooses to be a raw vegan, they eliminate all cooked foods, in addition to animal products, thus restricting their diet to all raw, whole, unprocessed foods. Chris Wark, owner of the blog “Chris Beat Cancer,” argues for raw veganism on his website. “Cooking can convert nutrients from an organic to an inorganic state and render them useless to your body. Raw food is living food,” Wark wrote.

Vegan diets aren’t the only option to practice preventative medicine. Those

seeking more holistic treatments can look towards chakra healing and Reiki, which focus on energy within the body.

One energy healing practice, Color My Spirit, was founded by Sarah Granahan in the Triangle.

Granahan was led to energy healing in the early 2000s when she fell ill without any formal diagnosis and began researching how other cultures healed themselves. This research led her to energy healing, and after applying the techniques to herself, she said she felt more uplifted and began giving out more positive energy. Granahan opened up her own healing practice shortly after, and today, she has been helping people heal for over 10 years by clearing their chakras in order to rebalance and restore their system.

Granahan specializes in Reiki, a Japanese-based practice that promotes healing, peace, relaxation and wellbeing by healing the life-force energy.

According to the Manitou Wellness Center for Alternative Medicine, one of the primary benefits of Reiki therapy is stress reduction and relaxation, triggering our body’s immune system. Typically, a Reiki session will involve light touching and massage to aid in the release of toxins. Granahan also specializes in Healing Touch, which uses a gentle, heart-centered technique. The goal of these sessions is for the client to selfheal, release their emotions, and restore harmony to their energy system. After each session, the client can experience a period of detox, typically five to seven days for Reiki, and three for the Healing Touch.

“MAKING YOU FEEL BETTER FROM THE INSIDE OUT”

If you choose to seek energy healing treatment, Granahan recommends starting out with either Reiki or Healing Touch so that you and the practitioner can better understand the state of your chakras and what type of healing needs to be done. She also suggests that those who are more skeptical about the effectiveness keep an open-mind. Skeptics that have come into Color My Spirit have left pleasantly surprised when not only was their main issue healed but other areas improved as well. In today’s world of stress, heavy workloads and chaos, it is worth checking in with your chakras and rebalancing your inner self.

In addition to energy healing, one of the fastest-growing fields of holistic

health is mindfulness and meditation.

The American Psychological Association (APA) defines mindfulness as a “psychological state of awareness, the practices that promote this awareness, a mode of processing information and a character trait.” Countless studies have been released over the past few years proclaiming the strong correlations between mindfulness and a variety of benefits, ranging from good grades to bliss. UC-Davis has pioneered a program of mindfulness within its university, called the Shamatha Project. Within this project, researchers are looking at both the biological and psychological impacts of mindfulness on college students.

Currently the project has shown lower levels of the stress hormone cortisol, and improvements in students’ abilities to cope with stressors. Forbes magazine boasts about the benefits of mindfulness in the workplace, because it boosts parts of the brain involved in thinking, empathy and memory. Scientific studies have also demonstrated that prolonged mindfulness increases nerve connectivity in the brain, which aids in diminishing age-related brain degeneration.

Myra Smith, a local Raleigh mindfulness advocate and teacher, has incorporated it into her everyday routine, saying that it makes her feel calmer, happier and more focused. A common misconception about mindfulness is that the practice consists of sitting in silence with your eyes closed, not thinking; however, mindfulness can take the shape of many practices like yoga, painting or exercise. Yoga studios often offer slower classes, such as yin yoga, which targets gentle stretching and breathing to recenter and balance your body’s system.

Mindfulness is about reconnecting with the present. Mindfulness specialists want individuals to reshape how they view the world outside of deadlines and work, and refocus it towards the immediate experience. When practicing mindfulness, pay attention to your thoughts and emotions, check into your body to see what’s unbalanced, and take thoughtful measures to reset your system. In terms of holistic health, mindfulness is a practice that can easily be incorporated into everybody’s life, and has shown significant benefits, even if it’s only five minutes every day.

Looking at alternative approaches to medicine, from simple life changes to energy healing, is a deeply rewarding way to reconnect with your body and mind.

Take charge of your life by looking inward, rather than looking inside a medicine cabinet, to find out what’s causing the discomfort in your body.

40 | C | Photo Feature

Sticks and Stones

Written by Remington Remmel Photographed by Addy Liu, Alexis Fairbanks, Elise Holsonback, Gabrielle Thompson, Nash Consing & Sabah Kadir Styled by Brinson Willis, Caroline Pirozzolo, Carson Goodwyn & Suzie Altz Beauty by Clara Matthews, Emmy Smith, Shelby Brown & Sophia Ong Modeled by Ami Patel, Callie Kirchstein, Carson Zone, Darith Klibanow, Josh Jiang, Nishit Bade, Psalms White & Selena Zhang Designed by Macy Abernethy

SITTING PRETTY Dress Uniquities

Photo Feature | C | 43

FLOWER GIRL Overalls Urban Outfitters; Sweater Uniquities

Every day we have the chance to present ourselves to others, in our own, curated image. There are thousands of ways to feel more like yourself – shedding layers or gilding yourself in more. Some come plainly to the world authentic, unadulterated, presenting the purest form of themselves, while some demand the world look at them, queens and kings of their domain – audacious, dauntless, resolute.

These may seem in many ways like opposites, but we posit that whatever is the most you, is your rawest form. In this shoot, we meditate on the apparent dichotomy between minimalism and materialism.

Dramatic opulence and serene vulnerability literally meet in the middle in this pivotal shoot. The brash juxtaposition of clean and cool blurs the edges of what we thought we knew.

42 | C | Photo Feature

FAN BOY Top Urban Outfitters; Jeans shop similar at Levi’s; Shoes Adidas

PLANTED Jacket Urban Outfitters; Top shop similar at UNIQLO; Jeans shop similar at Levi’s; Shoes shop similar at Converse

bloom

44 | C | Photo Feature

STICKS Dress Fedora; Sunglasses Retrosuperfuture

48 | C | Photo Feature

STONES Dress Fedora; Necklace Buffalo Exchange; Shawl wwv

look

CROWNS AND ROSES (Left to Right) Fur boa shop similar at ZARA; Dress & Top Urban Outfitters; Jacket Uniquities

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SPOTLIGHT Jacket ASOS; Jeans shop similar at Levi’s; Jewelry shop similar at Buffalo Exchange

STRIKING Top Urban Outfitters; Necklace Buffalo Exchange

44 | C | Photo Feature

PUCKER UP Shawl, shoes, bracelets & skirt shop similar at ZARA; Top Urban Outfitters; Necklace Buffalo Exchange

watching it and being so shocked to see people who were that queer-looking on TV,” she told Vulture. “Up until that point, I was dressing up in drag, but I didn’t live anywhere that had a drag bar scene. As the show aired, it started showing up in places, and I took my drag out of the bedroom and onto the stage.”

Since its inception, “RuPaul’s Drag Race” has increased its prize money from $20,000 to $100,000, hosted guest judges like Lady Gaga and Khloe Kardashian, and given over 112 queens across 13 seasons the chance to showcase their drag to the world. *** Not only did “Drag Race” bring drag to mainstream pop culture, but it also represented an important departure from the ballroom scene. In their paper “Personal Appearance and Consumption in Popular Culture,” professors Holbrook, Block and Fitzsimons explain how the gender illusions of RuPaul’s drag race differ from those of the balls. In these contemporary upbeat representations, “drag is elevated to a performance art wherein primarily gay men who remain resolutely male in their private lives find an outlet for creative expression on the stage and for a telling form of social commentary.”

While the queens lip syncing for their lives on “Drag Race” and the queens vogue-ing in Harlem are both doing “drag,” they are performing in two totally different ways. The latter were competing to pass as females or models or whatever category they were serving you—the more realistic the better. For queens in 2018, succeeding on stage is all about standing out and creating a completely unique identity. Queens — other than those who are exclusively celebrity impersonators — will have a signature wig or style of make-up in order to iconize themselves in the drag strata. Just look at the speckled black face paint of Dusty Ray Bottoms or Manila Luzon’s Cruella-inspired hair.

This shift in drag is a result of the increasing agency queer minorities have in being able to choose their identities.

Drag is not a necessary means to societal acceptance anymore but rather a vehicle for expressing exactly who you are and who you want to be in that moment. Drag king Ben Ether does this every time he puts on his hot pink glitter beard.

The natural counterpart to the drag queen, a drag king is a femaleidentifying or non-binary person that uses performance to challenge society’s idea of masculinity and gender identity.

“If you’ve ever seen a king perform who’s incredibly dynamic and knows how to work a crowd then you know that

there’s no difference in entertainment value,” said Ben. Performing as Ben Ether (read “beneath her”), he got the chance to explore new parts of his own identity which didn’t fit into a strict binary. “Drag is like the answer to a question I didn’t realize I was asking at the time,” he said. “I wasn’t sure how I identified gender-wise, and drag has been a fun way to play with that.”

Finding inspiration for a drag king is not as easy as it is for queens. “I searched for a really long time, and I couldn’t find what I wanted to do,” he said. “I didn’t want to do a stereotypical, suave, misogynistic man. I wanted to be fun and have glitter everywhere.” Ben’s approach to drag reflects the idea that drag is a mode of discourse within society as well as ourselves. It forces you to choose who you are going to be on that stage in spite of who you are expected to be — even within the scope of the drag community.

“I DIDN’T WANT TO DO A STEREOTYPICAL, SUAVE, MISOGYNISTIC MAN. I WANTED TO BE FUN AND HAVE GLITTER EVERYWHERE” “Having that conversation [with myself] made me realize I don’t have to do anything that society has told me is manly or masculine,” he said. “I can wear a pink glitter beard.”

Ben considers himself lucky to be part of such an accepting and successful drag house. “Most drag kings don’t have it as easy as I did,” he said. “Not every house or club or venue accepts drag kings….and for a newbie king like myself to just walk into the Pinhook and perform to a sold out venue…[it’s] not typical.”

Will there be a “RuPaul’s Drag Race: Kings Edition?” Ben thinks there should be. “There are several kings that fully have the capacity to be on ‘RuPaul’s.’ Just look at Sasha Velour’s drag son and Asheville, N.C.’s native Mr. Lee Valone, or prominent king Landon Cider, whose glitter paint inspired Ben’s own look.

At the end of the day, whether you’re a king or a queen, drag is about choice, personal exploration and discovery.

Often kings and queens will start off

Main Feature | C | 43 emulating stereotypical masculine men and feminine women before finding their own drag identity.

“I was used to wearing scandalous half-naked outfits. Thongs and bras and long hair and pretty make-up—trying to look as feminine as possible,” said Naomi. It wasn’t until a Halloween show that she wore an “Alice in Wonderland” costume and lip synced to a mash-up of Judy Garland’s “The Trolley Song” and Die Antwoord’s “I Fink U Freeky” that she realized drag can be more than just feminine. *** Outside of Cat’s Cradle, Naomi glides through a line of eager patrons in her baby pink “tipping outfit,” the costume queens wear while “tip-toeing” through the audience before and after the show. She cracks jokes and takes pictures with fans, all while towering over them in her white pumps. Little did she know, the first drag show at this renowned venue would sell out.

Although America is a much different and, in many ways, a much better place for queer minorities than it was in the 1980s, there is still work to be done. With the shifting political tides, Fenton Bailey, co-founder of the “Drag Race” production banner World of Wonder, believes drag is now more important than ever. “The whole point about drag is it doesn’t ask anyone’s permission. Drag and resistance go hand in hand,” he told Vulture.

“Following your heart is the most political thing you can do,” adds RuPaul.

Being able to stand up and be whoever you want to be is the revolution, and drag is a fabulous suit of armor. It is performing as both yourself and a version of yourself that you think will entertain and challenge audiences. Your make-up, hair, stage presence, song choice — it’s all for you to decide. And underneath the pageantry and performance, the queens and kings are living freely, serving you self-identified realness.

As the newest member of House of Coxx Lil Dumpling said, “You gotta try it at least once.”

Performing alongside her fellow House of Coxx members Stormie Daie, Margaret Snatcher and Ben Ether, Naomi offers the crowd the chance to escape prejudice and bigotry and the weight of arbitrary preconceptions about what you should wear or who you should be. Within these black walls you can put on a pink glitter beard and heels and call yourself whatever suggestive name you want. Your identity is your choice to make — not your friends’, not your family’s, not your co-workers’ and certainly not your president’s.

In the words of RuPaul, “We’re all born naked, and the rest is drag.”

60 | C | Main Feature Naiomi Dix at the top of the show before her costume reveal

actions.” And if you check the fine print on the Pinhook website, you’ll see: “Come be you here — unless you are a bigot.”

While Vivica was instrumental in bringing an inclusive drag community to Durham, RuPaul Charles was able to bring it to audiences internationally with a show, “RuPaul’s Drag Race.” In 2009, after both E! and Bravo turned it down, “RuPaul’s Drag Race” premiered on Logo, an LGBTQ-focused TV network offered through most cable packages.

“Drag Race” is a reality competition that challenges its chosen queens to realize their own “creativity, uniqueness, nerve and talent,” all while promoting self-love and subverting gender normativity. This, combined with the increasingly progressive social order that rolled in with the election of President Obama, helped drag widen its reach from the ballrooms of New York to clubs across the world.

RuPaul, who originally rose to fame with his hit song “Supermodel (You Better Work)” (or as others might know it “that song from “The Lizzie McGuire Movie”), has earned four Emmy nominations and two wins for “Drag Race”—one of the only shows to ever feature a queer cast of different ethnicities. “I think about the young people out there in Saudi Arabia and Asia and South America and Wyoming who have watched the show,” said RuPaul in an interview with Vulture, “and have found refuge here with our girls and our vernacular and our outlook on life.” Season nine winner Sasha Velour said “Drag Race” was the reason she even performed outside of her home. “I remember

Naomi Dix lip| syncing Main Feature C | 59 to “Roman’s Revenge” by Nicki Minaj

Ben Ether in his iconic bumblebee costume

Naomi her 58 |Dix C |contours Main Feature nose before the show

owner of Durham’s “rock club and de facto community center” the Pinhook, agreed and together they opened a new hot spot for drag in the heart of North Carolina.

“Vivica started the House of Coxx as a single person,” admires Ben Ether, a drag king and two-year member of the house.

“She built all of this.”

Many of the House of Coxx, such as Ben and Naomi, found their way to drag by winning one of Vivica’s monthly amateur shows—but doing drag for the first time is no simple task. “I bought a wig and went to Forever 21 with my friends and had them ask the sales people questions because I didn’t want them to know that I was the one shopping for women’s clothing,” remembers Naomi. After renting a hotel room to do her make-up and giving a knockout performance of Beyoncé’s “Partition,” she won.

“In a non-corny way, I’ve been doing it ever since,” she said. *** Unlike a drag “family” that takes the same last name and performs exclusively together, a drag “house” is a collective of queens and kings who often share the stage and support each other artistically. The system was a central part of the ballroom drag scene in New York depicted in “Paris is Burning,” one of the most widely-viewed accounts of American drag culture and queer cinema.

Filmed in the aftermath of the AIDS crisis, “Paris is Burning” follows a group of gay and trans Hispanic and African-

Americans in the 1980s Harlem drag scene. Often rejected by their families, they would seek refuge in the comfort of the drag houses and the opportunities the ballrooms had to offer. “You go in there and you feel 100% right being gay,” said Pepper Labeija, mother of the House Labeija.

“That’s not what it’s like in the world.”

“WE’RE SUCH A STRONG COMMUNITY WITHIN DURHAM THAT WE DON’T DEAL TOO MUCH WITH PEOPLE WHO DON’T AGREE WITH WHAT WE’RE DOING” Described as a cross between a party and a pageant, balls are an underground competition in which queens from different families are judged on how well they embody certain categories, ranging from business executive to pretty girl.

It was from these balls that Madonna appropriated the famous “vogue” dance move for her hit song of the same name.

The balls were more than a cat walk. They demanded each queen serve the utmost authenticity in her respective category.

“The idea of realness is to look as much as possible like your straight counterpart,” said queen Dorian Corey.

Whether it’s high-fashion or school-girl “realness,” the balls gave disenfranchised homosexual minorities an experience that they otherwise would not have.

“In a ballroom, you can be anything you want,” Dorian said. “You’re not really an executive, but you’re looking like one and therefore you’re showing the straight world ‘If I had the opportunity, I could be one.’”

Although today we talk about drag as performance art, “passing” as a female in 1980s Harlem was just as much a defense mechanism as an artistic statement.

These queens “give the society that they live in what they want to see, rather than having to go through prejudices about your life and your lifestyle,” Dorian said. “You can walk around confidently blending in with everybody else.”

For this subculture of drag, “It’s not a satire; it’s actually being able to be this.” *** “I’ve had a lot of privilege in not having to deal with people who are not accepting of who we are,” said Naomi. She moves to her eyebrows now as the clock ticks closer and closer to show time. “We’re such a strong community within Durham that we don’t deal too much with people who don’t agree with what we’re doing.” Ben attributes their fortunate environment to Vivica’s ability “to pull the crowd in and make them feel safe but also make them accountable for their

I

n the pale glow of a vanity mirror in a quiet neighborhood in Durham, N.C., Naomi Dix sits, methodically applying foundation to her already primed face.

Her bunny Daisy watches from its cage while Mariah Carey’s “Fantasy” hums in the background. “It helps calm me,” Naomi muses.

Despite doing drag for the past four years and rarely getting butterflies, she’s nervous. Tonight marks the first ever drag show at Carrboro, N.C.’s performance venue Cat’s Cradle—and Naomi’s hosting.

“I came to drag during a good time within the area,” said Naomi, who first started performing in Durham in 2014.

“People who were not a part of the LGBTQ community were starting to realize what drag was and that it was not as taboo as they thought.”

Drag is all at once a form of entertainment, political discourse, and art—all while being a celebration of self-love. Although it has been around for centuries in various forms, it is still a vastly misconstrued phenomenon—one that has endured criticism from many across America who either disagree with or fail to understand the critical social implications that drag has to offer.

“Drag is the physical embodiment of understanding who we really are,” said drag icon RuPaul Charles in an interview with Time Magazine. The ability to “look beyond your driver’s license,” he continued, is a challenge for the critical mass.

Enter the drag queen. While the lay

person may simply see them as men in dresses lip syncing to Beyoncé, true fans of the art know that these genderbending drag queens are doing much more than just jokes and death drops (a difficult dance move that involves falling on your back in heels). As host of Viceland’s “THE TRIXIE & KATYA SHOW” and recent winner of “RuPaul’s All Stars” Trixie Mattel put it, “Every time you get in drag you’re making a political statement.”

“AT THE CORE OF DRAG ARE HUMANS PROVING THAT YOUR IDENTITY IS A CHOICE” Drag is a way for a historically marginalized community to bring society’s latent acceptance of heteronormative identities to the limelight in a fun, entertaining and glamorous way. By “throwing shade” and “serving realness,” the drag community is actually pointing out how we, as everyday people, subscribe to certain performances of who society believes us to be, based on arbitrary characteristics— such as those that are, as RuPaul said it, found on your driver’s license.

Main Feature | C | 39 The space drag creates is both a mode of discourse for its audiences as well as a haven for people who have felt like they are on the edges of mainstream society. “You can become anything, and you can do anything, right here, right now — and it won’t be questioned,” said queen Pepper LaBeija in the lauded 1990 documentary “Paris is Burning.”

At the core of drag—beneath the wigs and the costumes and the “Yass Queens!”—are humans proving that your identity is a choice. One that does not need to be assigned, defined or constricted to what a majority of the world has come to perceive their identity to be. *** “I always had somewhat of a fear of drag,” said Naomi, now tracing her eyelid with a thick black liner. “It wasn’t until [my friend] took me to my first drag show at the Pinhook and Vivica C. Coxx was performing that I fell in love with it.”

You can’t talk about drag in Durham without mentioning Vivica C. Coxx, mother of the House of Coxx. After opening for Manila Luzon, a runner-up on “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” in the early 2000’s, Vivica decided to create a new space in Durham for drag performers.

Her house would serve as a launch pad for aspiring kings and queens looking for support in their drag journey, as well as a platform for them to freely express their own individual drag. Kym Register,

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& IDENTITY & CHOICE: HOW DRAG TAUGHT AMERICA TO BE HERSELF Written by Micah Stubbs Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks and Addy Liu Designed by Parrish Alto

INSECURITY IS OVERRATED. LOVE HOW YOU LOOK AND

show it offTO THE WORLD. Jordan Williams

Marisa Breathewaite

(Left to Right) Clara Matthews & Rachel Maguire

(Left to Right) Sabah Kadir, Emma Karlok, Anastasia Soule & Elise Holsonback

Christine Dequito

Sabah Kadir

Eeman Chowdhury

Reed Macdonald

Catalina Berenblum

insecurities.

DECORATE YOUR THEY ARE PART OF WHO YOU ARE.

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Sharon Navarrete

Liz Hornick

Luke Workley

Katie Ayscue

Reilly Grant

Allie Barton

Ashley Mills

this is Oftentimes, without even realizing it, we find ourselves idolizing models, celebrities and the fashion industry. For those of us who do not embody the media’s unrealistic beauty standards, this infatuation frequently results in dreading anything and everything about us that dares to deviate from the norm. Just as we first learned to grow uncomfortable with our curly hair, unruly eyebrows and crooked noses, we must now learn to embrace these features that make us so unique. This is the journey with self-love. It’s a hard journey that rarely follows a straight path. For this photoshoot, people identified parts of themselves that they have grown to disapprove of due to unrealistic beauty standards. These parts were beautifully decorated and captured as a way to celebrate our unique characteristics and start or continue our journey with self-love.

Written by Sundus Alfe Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks, Elise Holsonback, Gabrielle Thompson, Nash Consing, Sabah Kadir & Sundus Alfe

air and dirty the last clean streams and push our paved roads through the last of the silence, so that never again will Americans be free in their own country from the noise, the exhausts, the stinks of human and automotive waste ...”

As the struggle between ecosystem preservation and collapse continues to escalate in pace and severity, President Trump set a potentially dangerous precedent by making the decision to reduce the Bears Ears National Monument by 85 percent merely a year after its inception.

Bears Ears was created in December 2016 by President Obama via the Antiquities Act, a law that gives the president authority to protect landmarks and “other objects of historic or scientific

interest” by declaring them national monuments, a kind of secondary national park. President Obama created Bears Ears at the behest of Native American tribes in the region who had long fought for the protection of their sacred lands and some 100,000 archeological sites initially contained within the monument’s borders.

Trump’s reversal of that decision is the largest rollback of federal protected lands in history and the first since World War II. The legality of his actions is currently being challenged in court by five Native American tribes and several conservation law firms. If the courts uphold Trump’s decision, it would set a precedent that endangers tens of

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millions of acres of protected land and ocean across the United States, opening them up to potential resource extraction by private companies.

Ralph Emerson wrote, “The earth laughs in flowers.” Sitting on the side of a mountain in Montana, in the midst of vibrant orange, yellow and purple stars bursting in a sky of green undergrowth, I’m overcome with the urge to laugh as well. We should not be able to visit these places only in our memories. Our children should not have to settle for to reading about them in the pages of books, or seeing them reflected in thousands of pixels. As a society, we have a duty to protect what came before us, and we are failing. We don’t have to.

"OUR CHILDREN SHOULD NOT HAVE TO SETTLE FOR READING ABOUT NATURE IN THE PAGES OF BOOKS, OR SEEING THEM REFLECTED IN THOUSANDS OF PIXELS. AS A SOCIETY, WE HAVE A DUTY TO PROTECT WHAT CAME BEFORE US, AND WE ARE FAILING"

The elimination of America’s signature keystone predator resulted in a host of unforeseen consequences, including a drop in biodiversity, a key indicator of ecosystem health.

In 1995 and 1996, 31 gray wolves were relocated from Canada to Yellowstone in an attempt to re-establish the wolf population as a key part of the park’s ecosystem. Today the wolves have established themselves in the states that surround the park, and their Yellowstone population exceeds 300. While the numbers are still low and wolves bounce on and off the endangered species list in their recolonized states from year to year, their reintroduction is a conservation triumph, a key factor in maintaining the health of America’s oldest protected ecosystem.

In a letter to the Outdoor Recreation Resources Review Commission written in 1969, conservationist and author Wallace Stegner writes, “something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed; if we permit the last virgin forests to be turned into comic books and plastic cigarette cases; if we drive the few remaining members of the wild species into zoos or to extinction; if we pollute the last clean

I

n terms of surface area, the United States is the third-largest country in the world. Our ecosystems include coral reefs, rainforests, tundras and deserts. We are a nation of staggering natural beauty, home to unique landscapes and tremendously diverse flora and fauna.

Recognizing both the privilege and the responsibility of having these vast natural resources within our borders, Congress created the first national park — Yellowstone — March 1, 1872. This sparked a worldwide movement that resulted in the creation of tens of millions of acres of protected public land, in more than 100 countries around the globe. Today that legacy and those lands are in jeopardy.

In the summer of 2016, my sister, Alexis Fairbanks, and I set out on a forty-day cross-country road trip that spanned the width of North America. We explored some of America’s most beautiful protected lands, and worked to discover the factors that now threaten to radically alter the face of our nation.

The first leg of our journey was a three-day, 2400-mile drive to Joshua Tree National Park, in the Mojave Desert of Southern California. Over time, the American desert has developed a reputation of being a place of spiritual healing and revelation, rooted in Native American culture. This place now needs healing of its own.

The park’s namesake is in grave danger.

Due to rising temperatures, the massive native succulents have not been able to reproduce at rates high enough to sustain their population. This puts the entire Mojave Desert ecosystem — one that likely evolved around the presence of Joshua Trees — at risk.

In order to flower, the Joshua tree needs to go through a period of dormancy, brought on by cold weather. The vital cold temperatures that were typically seen in the winter months have been decreasing in frequency and severity over the course of several decades.

Jim Cornett, an ecologist who has been studying Joshua trees for over three decades, points out that there are almost no new trees coming into replace the older ones. “We haven’t had a new, young Joshua tree emerge on our Wickenburg study site in almost 30 years, and there have been a number of trees that have died,” he said, adding that the environmental conditions just aren’t conducive to their survival.

According to Cornett, 2013 was an explosive blooming period for the trees, one like he hadn’t seen since he began studying them in 1988. He hypothesized that this was a desperate attempt at pollination on the part of Joshua trees, to

combat the two years of drought that came prior.

The extinction of the Joshua tree would not just be the loss of another succulent; it would throw the entire Mojave Desert ecosystem off balance, also leading to the extinction of species such as the yucca moth, whose larvae feed on the seeds of the trees. Twenty-five desert bird species would lose places to roost. Small mammals and reptiles that sought the plant out for shelter and food would starve and become easy pray for vultures and eagles.

A beautiful, fragile ecosystem is on the brink of collapse because rising temperatures in winter months, resulting from increased greenhouse gases, prevent mature Joshua trees from flowering, and young Joshua trees from surviving at all.

Further north, on the coasts of northern California and Oregon, tower the iconic redwoods (pictured left). These are the last of an ancient family of trees that stood alongside the dinosaurs and are the largest living organisms on the planet – over 10 times the size of a blue whale. Their stunning size is something to marvel at.

At one point, the redwood forests covered much of the Northwest Pacific coastline. Today, they occupy only 5 percent of the habitat they did before American settlers arrived and logged the majority of the population, and now even that 5 percent teeters on the edge of extinction.

Redwoods require a tremendous amount of water to stay alive, grow and fight off fungal infection, and year-round rains can only do so much. That’s why these trees are some of the only plants on Earth that have developed the ability to absorb water through their leaves as well as their roots. The giant conifer’s needles can perform reverse transpiration and absorb the moisture from the fog that rolls in from the Pacific.

Providing roughly 40 percent of the redwood’s water intake, in addition to providing it with crucial nitrogen and phosphorous, the fog is an essential source of water. Like the primeval forests it nourishes, the fog is disappearing, dropping by more than 30 percent in recent decades as the Pacific coast’s climate continues to grow more arid.

Even as the number of national parks displaying signs of distress continues to rise, some stand out as beacons of hope, highlighting the principles conservationists had in mind when they first created a system of protected public lands.

On Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, Olympic National Park is a model for reversing man’s (often cataclysmic) meddling in fragile ecosystems. The park

Travel Feature | C | 23 is the site of a major dam removal project, the first and largest of its kind attempted in a national park.

The Elwha Dam and the Glines Canyon Dam were placed in the Elwha River nearly a century ago, and have been disrupting the ecosystem of the river and its estuary ever since. The dams blocked over 90 miles of river, preventing Pacific salmon from traveling upstream to their spawning grounds. In addition to choking the river, the dams caused significant damage to the estuary at the mouth of the river, where it meets the Pacific, by trapping over 19 million cubic meters of sediment, nutrients and wood.

Dam removal began in September 2011, and was completed in August 2014.

The mouth of the Elwha rose over 10 feet, pushing a tremendous amount of trapped sediment into the Pacific Ocean, and dramatically impacting the nearshore environment. As locked-up nutrients flowed out to the ocean, the nearshore ecosystem revived. Within weeks, salmon, herring and smelt returned to the waters

“RISING TEMPERATURES IN WINTER MONTHS PREVENT MATURE JOSHUA TREES FROM FLOWERING, AND YOUNG JOSHUA TREES FROM SURVIVING AT ALL“ near the mouth of the river, followed by the seabird and sea mammal population. A sand beach is currently in the works that will provide a habitat for Dungeness crabs and clams.

Hundreds of miles inland, Yellowstone, the oldest protected land in America, is also the sight of a miraculous recovery.

Grey wolves once roamed the entirety of the North American continent, and there are thought to have been between 250,000 and 500,000 wolves that lived in the lower forty-eight states alone before European colonization began. By the 1960s that number had dropped to less than 300 as a direct result of mankind’s predation.

the earth laughs in flowers Written by Adam X. Fairbanks Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks Designed by Chrissy Boals

LEATHER WEATHER (Left) Jacket shop similar at ZARA

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CONCRETE JUNGLE

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STILL LIFE

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AMERICAN DREAMY (Right) Jacket Urban Outfitters; Top & pants shop similar at ZARA; Shoes Adidas

ELEVEN Dress & top Urban Outfitters

SKATE BORED (Right) Top ZARA; Jeans Urban Outfitters

WEARHAUS (Left) Top & skirt Uniquities; Shoes Vans; Choker Bettina Hehlen; (Right) Sweatshirt Champion; Pants Urban Outfitters

THUNDERBIRD Top Topshop; Skirt Urban Outfitters, Jacket Linea; Choker Bettina Hehlen; Bag shop similar at ZARA

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under construction When the rubber of sneaker soles hits the road, a new culture begins – one rooted in flippant rebellion. In the dust we see a fargone age where “fashion” is confined to the runway and metropolitan elite. Today, more than ever, people have the ability to experiment and tweak their personal images, or try on a new one all together. The ultimate sign of status now may come from a $800 sweatshirt whose main value lies not in extravagance but in the social currency it represents. Even then, we don’t have to break the bank to garner head-turns in the day and age of unfettered access to a world of looks. Our personal images are forever under construction, and playing with streetwear is maybe the rawest way to experiment with our identities.

This shoot does justice to the dynamism of cities and the way our outfits move, flutter and change with them.

Written by Remington Remmel Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks, Elise Holsonback & Sundus Alfe Styled by Brinson Willis, Caroline Pirozzolo, Carson Goodwyn & Suzie Altz Beauty by Clara Matthews, Clara Wong, Emmy Smith, Lindsay Rusczak, Rachel Putnam & Shelby Brown Modeled by Clara Matthews, Heather Johnson, Nirvaan Sawhney, Noah Legall, Layla Namak & Zita Voros Designed by Anna Bradsher

ULTRA VIOLET

nature, color psychologists believe that people are cognitively inclined to view those who wear ultra violet and other versions of purple as mysterious or exotic.

One inquiry remains unaddressed: Why do people associate purple with royalty?

The answer lies in the color’s fashion history. In the 15th century B.C.E., the city of Tyre in Phoenicia (an ancient civilization near the Mediterranean Sea whose name literally means “land of purple”) began creating a purple dye by crushing the shell of a small sea snail and extracting its mucus. The subsequent shade was dubbed Tyrian purple.

Producing Tyrian purple dye required more labor and expense than any other type of dye, so only those who possessed immense wealth could afford to wear the color. Early sumptuary laws further ensured that only nobles like Alexander the Great and Julius Caesar could don purple-dyed textiles, making purple the most legislated color in history.

“WE ARE LIVING IN A TIME THAT REQUIRES INVENTIVENESS AND IMAGINATION. ULTRA VIOLET TAKES OUR AWARENESS AND POTENTIAL TO A NEW LEVEL” Although people no longer need to crush snails in order to create purple fabrics, the color’s connection to royalty transcends history. Chemists did not know how to create synthetic purple until William Henry Perkin accidentally concocted it in 1856. The tickets to Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation in 1953 were purple. Perhaps because of its origins, purple hues still exude an air of panache and sophistication.

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Ultra violet’s history is clearly as rich and captivating as the color itself. Still, where did the concept of a “color of the year” originate, and why did ultra violet receive this year’s title over a spectrum of alternatives? Pantone began in the 1950s as a small business by the name of M & J Levine Advertising, which printed color cards for cosmetics companies. Hired as a part-time employee in 1956, Lawrence Herbert streamlined the company’s production of inks and pigments. Herbert bought the company in 1962 and renamed it “Pantone.” He implemented a new strategic vision, debuting the first color matching system just one year later.

The Pantone Color Matching System standardizes color so that designers and manufacturers around the world can use any equipment to produce and reproduce the same colors. Additionally, PCI’s color trend forecasts provide global perspective on the dynamic nature of color. Based on secret meetings of international color standards representatives, PCI chooses its “color of the year.” The selection reflects not only current trends, but also societal needs. According to Leatrice Eiseman, PCI’s Executive Director, “We are living in a time that requires inventiveness and imagination. Ultra violet [...] takes our awareness and potential to a higher level.

From exploring new technologies and the greater galaxy, to artistic expression and spiritual reflection, ultra violet lights the way to what is yet to come.” As such, the hue evokes infinite possibilities.

PCI’s “color of the year” is more than a branding tool for corporations. Ultra violet clothing and accessories can revitalize any wardrobe throughout the year. If you are not experienced with donning a power color like ultra violet, opt for more muted shades of purple like eggplant or mauve (both pair well with earth tones in the fall).

Alternatively, you can add an ultraviolet accessory like a purse, scarf or tie as a pop of color to black, white and gray outfits.

More daring fashionistas might style ultra violet with metallics or other bright hues like red or turquoise.

Upon examining ultra violet and other shades of purple through historical and societal lenses, it becomes clear that color, when infused into fashion and personal style, is a beautiful language.

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Written by Sara Holley Designed by Julia Zanzot

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hen it comes to color, millennial pink (a delicate blend of blush and peach) was undoubtedly a hallmark of 2017, appearing in food, furniture, cosmetics and fashion.

However, the Pantone Color Institute, one of the world’s leading authorities in color trend forecasting, heralded the new year with a different hue: ultra violet.

Since 2000, PCI’s color experts have

selected a “color of the year” based on the zeitgeist and their predictions of what shades will be in fashion that particular year. According to Pantone, PCI’s choice for 2018 is “a dramatically provocative and thoughtful [blue-based] purple shade [which] communicates originality, ingenuity and visionary thinking.” Ultra violet, like all colors, conveys a message to the world about those who wear it. For instance, eclectic 20th century musicians like Prince and Jimi Hendrix donned ultra violet as a symbol of nonconformity and artistry. Since purple rarely occurs in

Written by Katie Plampton Designed by Carter Frye On the West Coast and in other isolated pockets of the United States, many people are ditching bottled and tap water in favor of untreated, unfiltered and unsterilized “raw water.” Adherents of the raw water trend are wary of filtered water, arguing that beneficial materials are removed from the water during the treatment process. Many raw water proponents also believe that fluoride addition to public tap water, implemented as a protective public health measure to decrease contamination and illness, is dangerous for human consumption. The price for “purity” is high: for 2.5 gallons of untreated water at one small Oregon company called Live Spring Water, consumers have to shell out almost $40.

The raw water trend can be viewed in the context of a larger movement that endorses everything “natural” as healthy.

While following raw diets and seeking foods and beauty products with natural ingredients can be beneficial to health and wellness, experts warn against drinking untreated, “raw” water. In the name of pursuing a healthier, more natural lifestyle, those who consume unfiltered water may actually be negatively impacting their health, with long-term risks associated.

In the United States, the communal water supply is treated by processes that kill, remove or reduce contaminants, thus making the water safe before it is distributed for consumption and other uses. Historically, the reduction of waterborne disease through water treatment initiatives has been a tremendous success. According to Dr. Mark Sobsey of the Department of Environmental Sciences and Engineering in Gillings School of Global Public Health, “The introduction of water filtration and chlorination in the early 1900s led to dramatic reductions in cholera, typhoid fever and other infectious diseases in the USA and globally.” Water treatment technology later progressed, and “the use of chemical precipitation methods, activated carbon and membrane filtration were shown to reduce many chemical contaminants to safe levels,” he adds. The same communal water supply may be treated with multiple different methods; filtration physically removes microbes and contaminants from water, while chemical disinfectants and UV light actually kill microorganisms.

When individuals drink water that has not been properly treated and filtered, they put their health at risk. According

to Dr. Sobsey, water is treated in the U.S. and worldwide “to make it safe from chemical, microbiological and radiological contaminants that are risks to human health.” Sobsey says that many water sources are already contaminated, or later become contaminated when collected, stored and consumed by people. This contamination can take various forms.

Many water sources, including ground water and harvested rainwater, can become contaminated with “naturally occurring bacteria, molds and other microbes that are opportunistic pathogens,” says Sobsey, and these are particularly dangerous to “vulnerable populations such as infants, the elderly and[individuals with] chronic diseases, including cancer, immunodeficiency and diabetes.

“THE RISK OF WATERBORNE DISEASE FROM VARIOUS WATER SOURCES IS POTENTIALLY HIGH” Water sources are also commonly contaminated with pathogens and parasites that are widespread in both the human population and animal sources such as birds, livestock and feral animals.

According to Dr. Sobsey, the health risks that can arise from infectious bacteria include “cholera, typhoid fever, dysentery and diarrhea, enteric viruses like those that cause infectious hepatitis,” and parasite species like Cryptosporidium and human Giardia can cause gastrointestinal disease. These pathogenic microorganisms are among the most immediate risks resulting from drinking untreated water, as they can cause disease within a few days and ultimately lead to death in some cases. The risk of waterborne disease from various water sources is potentially high, says Sobsey, but it can be “easily and economically reduced by water treatment, either at community water treatment plans or at point of use, including in households.”

In addition to biological contaminants, dangerous chemical contaminants also have the potential to enter water sources.

Surface and groundwater often contain toxic chemicals, “including those from natural sources . . . such as arsenic and certain heavy metals,” says Sobsey.

Health Feature | C | 13 Radioactive geochemicals such as radon and radium are even capable of causing cancer. These naturally occurring poisons can reach toxic levels if consumed daily over a long period of time. Man-made chemical contaminants are also known to enter water sources. According to Sobsey, these include “pesticides and various chemicals from human or animal wastes either discharged as sewage into surface waters or applied to the land.” Dr. Sobsey warns that all of our water sources are vulnerable to the above-mentioned microbiological and chemical contaminants, and therefore “hygienic practices and good sanitation are needed to protect water from such contamination.”

There are a multitude of symptoms that an individual made ill by the consumption of untreated water might experience, and both short and long-term conditions can result. “Diarrheal disease, respiratory disease, skin infections and eye infections are all possible from microbial contaminants,” says Sobsey, and “cancers as well as other chronic and debilitating disease conditions can result from drinking water having excessive chemical and radiological contaminants on a continuous basis.” Several of the abovementioned chemical and radiological contaminants cause diseases that are slowly progressive, including neurological conditions and various types of cancer.

Certain infectious contaminants can lead to conditions like heart disease, arthritis, Guillian Barre Syndrome and epilepsy.

To put it simply, the risks of drinking untreated water vastly outweigh the purported benefits. When asked what he would say to someone deciding between drinking “raw water” or tap water, Dr. Sobsey said that individuals should “drink tap water because it is safe and cheap.” Even if you forgo the expensive “raw water” commercially available from companies like Live Spring Water, harvesting your own rainwater or collecting natural spring water does not necessarily make it safe to drink, and the potential dangers increase when this water is stored improperly or for a long period of time. If you wish to drink spring or mineral water, “it should be treated and it should be certified by an independent agency,” says Sobsey. He warns that you should never drink water just because it “looks safe” to you or because it comes from a “raw” or natural source, as contaminants typically cannot be seen with the naked eye. Drinking properly treated water is equally as healthy and refreshing as drinking “raw water,” and more importantly, it’s not going to make you sick.

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Outfit Joy Lab for Target; Sneakers Mizuno; Pink Headband Old Navy; Purple Headband Lululemon; Water Bottle Camelbak

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Wonder Workout woman Written & Styled by Madison Godfrey Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks Designed by Sarah Sharpe

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The number one thing that gets a fashionista to spin class, Pure Barre, yoga or to the park for an outdoor workout is a cute new outfit. It is almost impossible to walk into a store without encountering one of the many new athletic brands launching on what seems to be a monthly basis.

With a new year comes new goals for almost everyone. Often, many of these goals involve some sort of fitness challenge. Exercising is part of healthy living and is a celebration of what your body can do, so why not look fabulous while doing it? Upgrade your T-shirt and gym sweats and show off your inner goddess.

will you wait for me, my evergreen?

Photo courtesy Shervin Lainez

on the rise: YEBBA Written by Ruth Samuel

I first stumbled across YEBBA after the release of Sam Smith’s latest album, “The Thrill of It All.” While Smith tugged on my heartstrings with his slow ballads, I was taken aback by the second voice featured in his song “No Peace.” Steady, yet dynamic. Strong, but raspy. Suddenly evoking a sense of earnest longing and simultaneously, weariness. Who was this?

Seconds later, I found myself spiraling down a rabbit hole, scouring the web for an artist by the name of YEBBA. Music has been dubbed as a universal language and is still one of the most effective and powerful modes of communication. While we put in our headphones to tune out the commotion of our daily lives, musical influence shows no bounds. Through music, one can express their truest, most vulnerable selves. Despite our unique struggles, this

exposure ultimately unifies audiences and listeners. YEBBA has managed to do this effortlessly.

The 23-year-old Arkansas native was born Abbey and has spent her life surrounded by music. For years now, YEBBA has been working tirelessly behind the scenes in the music industry.

She uploaded her first YouTube video in November 2015 covering the song “Weak”

by SWV. With a guitar-playing friend by her side, simply sitting by a granite counter, her flawless riffs and authentic vocals earned her over 300,000 views.

A year later, she was featured in “Melatonin,” a song by the iconic hip-hop group A Tribe Called Quest. In December 2016, she belted away as backup singer in Chance the Rapper’s performance of “Same Drugs” on Saturday Night Live.

Amid all of the success, however, the

budding star had to grapple with her mother’s recent suicide that occurred shortly after the release of her original song “My Mind.”

YEBBA transforms her vulnerability and sorrow into strength. In December 2016, she announced her decision to change her name to “YEBBA” as a tribute to her late mother and as “a promise to keep searching for her [own] reflection,” she said on Facebook. “So will you wait for me, my evergreen?” YEBBA sings in “Evergreen,” a song released in October 2017 as a way to heal during the difficult loss of her mother. The uncertainty that comes from throwing desires into the unknown and patiently waiting for a response resonated deeply with me. Along with many newfound fans, I will certainly be waiting to hear what this rising star produces in the future.

Designed by Zoe Hambley

8 | C | Culture Update

big little lies

A limited series for the #metoo movement Written by Piper Anderson In late February 2017, “Big Little Lies” premiered on the heels of the women’s marches that took place across the country. The HBO limited series, which centers around five mothers and their triumph over a sexual assailant, was able to reflect the conversation on sexual assault months before the #MeToo movement and bring it to the forefront of Hollywood’s reckoning with shamed producer Harvey Weinstein.

Based on the best-selling book by Liane Moriarty, “Big Little Lies” was created and written by David E. Kelley (“Ally McBeal”) and directed by Jean-Marc Vallée (“Dallas Buyers Club”). Executive producers Reese Witherspoon and Nicole Kidman star in it, alongside Shailene Woodley, Laura Dern, Zoë Kravitz and Alexander Skarsgård.

Opening with a murder mystery set against the wealthy beachside community of Monterey, CA, the seven-episode series broaches themes of secrecy, violence and rivalry, interlaced with moments of

humor and poignancy. The tension of this seemingly perfect town is juxtaposed with a breathtaking blend of music and waves in the opening credits: musician Michael Kiwanuka’s buttery voice mixes with salt, sun and soul as shadows creep into bright California days through expert cinematography that hints at its dark finale.

Through their electric performances, the cast embodies the brave and honest testimonies of sexual assault survivors across the country. Kidman plays Celeste, a lawyer who is sexually and physically abused by her much younger husband, Perry (Skarsgård). Like many survivors of domestic violence, Celeste feels isolated and unable to break the harmful cycle of abuse with her volatile partner, who can switch from caring to hostile in the blink of an eye.

“For this to be resonating at this time, is extraordinary,” said Kidman backstage at the Golden Globes, where “Big Little Lies” took home four of the night’s awards.

The timeliness of the series’ successful awards season and #MeToo, a movement that began with Alyssa Milano’s tweet of sexual assault solidarity in October, created the perfect storm of empowerment necessary to make real change in the way women are treated both in and out of the patriarchal constructs of Hollywood.

“We see you, we hear you and we will tell your stories,” echoed Witherspoon at the Golden Globes.

“Big Little Lies” will return for a second season with production starting in spring 2018. According to HBO, the second installment will include Meryl Streep as Perry’s mother and “will explore the malignancy of lies, the durability of friendships, the fragility of marriage and, of course, the vicious ferocity of sound parenting.”

“It’s been a difficult year for our industry,” said Witherspoon, but “in our fighting, we’ve come out of the darkness and into the light.”

maddman: the steve madden story

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Written by Ellie Glass Designed by Anna Bradsher We have all heard of Steve Madden shoes. The iconic American designer’s collection of high-fashion, low-cost shoes can make anyone feel instantly stylish.

We wear someone’s name everyday, but we often know nothing about the person to whom it belongs. Who is Steve Madden?

“Maddman: The Steve Madden Story,” which became available on Netflix in 2017, is a documentary directed by Ben Patterson that gives an unfiltered view into the life and work of Steve Madden.

Clad in jeans, a plain shirt, and a baseball cap to hide his bald head, Steve Madden doesn’t fit any typical expectation of a fashion designer. “I was brought up with the fear of being broke,” Madden said, in his thick New York accent, of his upbringing with depression-era parents.

The designer got his start working in a stockroom of a shoe store in his home of Queens, N.Y. He points to shoes as a source of inspiration – he would walk down the street looking at nothing but other people’s feet.

Before his career as a world-renowned designer, Madden slipped into a battle with drugs. He cites his struggles with undiagnosed ADHD in a household that stifled his energy and “thought being creative was knowing how to fix the television.” So, to cope, he selfmedicated. It took time for Steve to realize how alone he felt as an alcoholic and an addict, unable to control his substance abuse. But Madden knew he was losing his shot at a successful career, so he made it his mission to get sober.

Shortly after, Madden quit his job at the shoe store and began his own business, making shoes out a garage with a loan of just $1,100.

Many people have gotten their impressions of Madden from the 2013 film “The Wolf of Wall Street.” Madden’s childhood friend Danny Porush, of Stratton Oakmont brokerage house – and played by Jonah Hill in the film – convinces him that by selling stocks, Madden can get the money to grow his brand. Madden, played by Jake Hoffman, says his depiction could’ve been a little less “dorky,” but that the story of his involvement with the firm was otherwise pretty accurate. The money that came from Stratton Oakmont’s “pump and dump” brokerage brought Madden “from an eviction notice to a private jet in 200 days.”

Despite any implication made by the film, Madden worked hard to build a successful empire – starting with one shoe.

The documentary walks through Madden’s design process, beginning with his very first “winner,” or best-selling shoe, the Marylou, a black leather, platform version of the then-popular Mary Jane.

Stratton Oakmont helped Steve Madden become the brand it is today – but, sadly for the then-naive designer, that success came with a price. In 2002, Steve Madden was convicted of stock manipulation and fraud. After 31 months in prison and 60 days at a halfway house, Madden went back to his company as the chief designer.

“Maddman” offers deep insight into his journey to become the famous designer he is today. Director Ben Patterson captures the inspirational story, complemented

by Madden’s honesty and charisma. For anyone interested in seeing a success story of a brand built from the ground up, “Maddman: The Steve Madden Story” is a must watch.

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#timesup Written by Niki Wasserman / Designed by Isabella Courtenay-Morris At the 75th Golden Globe Awards Jan. 7, 2018, the red carpet was filled with a sea of black. In support of the TIME’S UP Legal Defense Fund, which aims to provide legal resources to those who have experienced sexual abuse, assault or harassment in the workplace, attendees chose to dress in black attire as a way to show their dedication to the movement.

While many celebrities had previously spoken out about these issues, the Golden Globes provided them with an opportunity to make a statement through the power of fashion.

In October 2017, sexual assault allegations against film producer Harvey Weinstein spread like wildfire throughout Hollywood. Actresses including Ashley Judd, Rose McGowan and Gwenyth Paltrow all spoke out against Weinstein, sparking a movement within the entertainment industry, and empowering others outside of the industry to share their experiences. Survivors of sexual abuse, assault and harassment began telling their stories with #metoo, and Time’s Up was created as a way to propel the movement and inspire meaningful change.

The Golden Globes presented many prominent Hollywood figures the chance to show their solidarity in a way that was both daring and effective. By dressing in all black, both male and female attendees of the awards show acknowledged and brought attention to the darkness that consumed Hollywood during the prior

“INSTEAD OF STRIVING TO STAND OUT ON THE RED CARPET, CELEBRITIES VOWED TO STAND TOGETHER” months. Exemplifying how fashion can be a subtle yet powerful tool, the attendees wearing black sent a clear message to those who chose to use their power to abuse and assault others: time is up.

Celebrities and commentators also defied red carpet norms by forgoing the

usual conversations about designers and brands. The interviews allowed attendees to be candid and unapologetic as they emphasized why they chose to wear black.

By choosing to dress in outfits of the same color, the attendees also rebelled against the typical beauty and fashion expectations for esteemed awards shows like the Golden Globes. Instead of striving to stand out on the red carpet, celebrities vowed to stand together in support of Time’s Up. The impact of the all-black dress code reached far beyond the Golden Globes’ red carpet. According to Vanity Fair, Condé Nast partnered with eBay to hold an auction for both gowns and tuxedos worn during the Golden Globes, with the proceeds going to Time’s Up. Also, at the 60th Annual Grammy Awards, attendees chose to wear all white, mirroring the intentions of those who dressed in black at the Globes. In the midst of movements like #metoo and Time’s Up, members of the entertainment industry have embraced fashion as a mechanism for speaking out, showing unity and inspiring others to join the fight for social change.

the darkness of diplomatic fashion Written by Lauren Wilkinson The intersection between fashion, politics and international relations is often complicated and controversial. The mixed reception of recent fashion choices of prominent diplomats, presidents’ spouses and Hollywood figures exemplifies this point.

For example, in the United States, the wives of presidents have all had a great deal of responsibility to uphold the reputation of the country on their shoulders. While former President Barack Obama was in office, his wife Michelle had to prepare for eight state dinners, all of which she strategically planned her wardrobe and demeanor for.

Michelle Obama chose seven designers considered to be hyphenated American designers, including Marchesa and IndianAmerican designer Naeem Khan. These designers had an allegiance to their home country outside of the U.S., but also recognize themselves as American-born or of the American frontier. However, for China’s state dinner in 2011, Mrs. Obama chose an unhyphenated European designer, Sarah

Burton, to create a red dress in celebration of China’s color.

While Mrs. Obama planned accordingly to avoid an international relations travesty and whispers among diplomats, she still received backlash from American designers since she was on American soil and did not represent her roots. In response, Mrs. Obama went with a Vera Wang look in 2015, which helped smoothe relations with American designers and satisfied the Chinese president and his wife.

Gal Gadot, the female star of “Wonder Woman,” also faced negative comments in response to her choice to wear a particular designer. For the National Board of Review Awards in 2017, Gadot wore an Elie Saab dress to the annual gala from Saab’s 2018 collection. Saab went on to post a photo of Gadot on his Instagram, which instantly created controversy.

Saab is a Lebanese designer, and Lebanon and Israel have historically been at war with each other since 1948 because of the IsraelLebanon conflict. In 2017, Lebanon actually

banned the film “Wonder Woman” because of Gadot’s role, hinting that relations between Israel and Lebanon are still tense. While Saab later deleted the photo, the conversation surrounding Gadot and Saab’s collaboration revealed the the wide-reaching impact of celebrity fashion choices.

Similarly, Melania Trump has also faced backlash from her fashion choices since her husband took office. Critics deemed Mrs. Trump’s decision to wear sunglasses inappropriate when she visited the Tomb of the Unknown Soldiers at Arlington National Cemetery and when she paid her respects to victims of the mass shooting in Las Vegas.

The first lady also received flack about her choice to wear heels when visiting areas affected by Hurricane Harvey, as well as her display of wealth in her White House portrait.

In the current political climate, fashion has major implications in international relations.

Michelle Obama, Gal Gadot and Melania Trump are just three examples of a history woven in decisions affected by fashion.

and engage yourself in a way that has never been done before.

The two individuals who founded Coulture did not set out to create yet another fashion magazine — they set out to create something that spoke to people. It’s never been just about the clothes or just about the art; it’s about empathy, compassion and human connection at a time when people are frightened to be themselves. Our pages tackle social issues, challenge the norm and work to ensure that every person believes that they are beautiful and worthy, but there is no end to this work.

We thank you both, Alexandra and Remington, for trusting us to continue to uphold the standard that you have set for this magazine throughout the past six issues. We cannot express how excited we are to see you two take off into the world beyond UNC-Chapel Hill, and we hope you will be proud of what we do with Coulture.

It is with a heavy heart that we say goodbye to our former editors, but it is with excitement, hope and goosebumps that we say hello to our readers as the new editors-in-chief. May we surprise you, may we connect with you and may we join with you to create what has never been created before.

Let’s rebel.

4 | C | Letter From the Editors

Rebel, Rebel

Photographed by Sean T. Bailey and Amanda Ugorji / Designed by Macy Abernethy Being rebellious has gotten a bad reputation. The notion that it is improper to deliberately go against the grain is silly, in our opinion. Everything from our civil rights to fundamental schisms in society has been a result of someone, or a group of someones, rebelling. It’s the heart of change and the reason that we all get out of bed in the morning — in the hopes that what we do will be different than what everyone else has done.

The role of the individual is threatened by overwhelming pessimism and the ideology that one person doesn’t make a difference, whether that manifests itself in one vote, one voice or one step. But the only thing that has ever brought happiness or freedom, values we work endlessly to uphold, is one person being rebellious.

It is in a collective of individuals that we see the power of humanity and empathy, but that does not mean the role of the individual should be overlooked. It is leaders who show fearlessness and confidence that we look to, and it is those qualities of fearlessness and confidence that every person can — and should — exhibit.

These pages hold what we believe will help everyone embrace the quirks and details of their own personality. There is a sense of, “I don’t give a d*mn,” and that is good, because you shouldn’t.

You should not worry about what other people think of you, and

you should not concern yourself with people who diminish your own sense of individuality. We want these pages to influence you to get up in the morning, look in the mirror, and own every aspect of your life, from the way you talk to the way you walk. We want you to feel so confident in yourself that even the cruelest negativity and doubt cannot stop you. In the face of all obstacles, we want you to laugh because you know you are stronger than whatever is trying to put you down.

For too long, women have been silenced simply by their own belief that they are worthless up against the patriarchy. For too long, LGBTQ folks have been silenced by the belief that their identity is somehow too “other” to be given basic rights. And for too long, people of color have been silenced because our very institutions make it possible.

What do we do in the face of these injustices? We rebel. We scream, we march, we walk out and we do it all by trusting ourselves. We hope these ensuing pages will inspire you to lead change. We hope that you will take to the streets and express yourself without holding back. Cut your hair the way you want.

Wear the brightest color you can find. Refuse to fit in, starting with how you present yourself to the world. It is our generation that is changing the way things are done, so do, wear, see, walk,

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