Coulture Fall/Winter 2017

COULTURE

E

THE UP

D SI

R 2018 FALL/WINTE

COULTURE Issue 5

Editor-in-Chief Alexandra Hehlen Managing Editor Remington Remmel Assistant Editors Cassandra Cassidy Patrick Rosemond ART Graphic Design Editors // Macy Abernethy Wyatt Wilt Assistant Graphic Design Editor // Connie Gin PHOTOGRAPHY Photo Editors // Alexis Fairbanks Elise Holsonback Assistant Photography Editors // Sabah Kadir Addy Liu FASHION & BEAUTY Style Editors // Carson Goodwyn Caroline Pirozzolo Assistant Style Editors // Susie Altz Brinson Willis Beauty Editors // Kimberly Baudhuin Sara Rich Assistant Beauty Editors // Halee Smith Clara Wong Fashion News Editors // Brianna Kusilek Niki Wasserman Assistant Fashion News Editors // Robert Lee Rhinehart Sterling Sidebottom Modeling Directors // Pambu Kali Morgan Pratt Hannah Lee Assistant Modeling Director // Roshni Verma FEATURES Features Editors // Chloe Williams Hannah Lee Assistant Features Editors // Piper Anderson Joseph Held Health Editor // Katie Plampton Assistant Health Editor // Elizabeth Beauchamp Arts Editors // Rachel Greene Micah Stubbs Assistant Arts Editors // Claire Ruch Joanna Zhang DIGITAL Social Media Directors // Julia Faulkner Lauren Tarpley Assistant Social Media Editors // Delainey Kirkwood Caroline Sink MARKETING AND PR Marketing Directors // Maggie Berra Sahara Lord Assistant Marketing Directors // Maren Garner Yi Ge PR Directors // Sarah Lundgren Ashlyn Siske Assistant PR Directors // Sidney Morris Shephard Sullivan COPYEDITING Copyediting Director // Haley Creech Associate Copyediting Directors // Liz Chen Jordan Zeigler FINANCIAL Financial Directors // Ian Muriuki Juliana Sirois Pallavi Gulati Assistant Financial Directors // Garima Tomar JoLynn Smith FACULTY ADVISORS Dana McMahan Chris Roush

Cyberspace | C | 3

cyberspace Can’t get enough of Coulture? Check out our blog! Our team churns out fresh, new content on our online platform on the regular. From coffee shop-inspired outfits to DIY healthcare to high-fashion highlights, we’ve got something for every taste.

MEET THE BLOGGING EDITORS Caroline Farrell | Editor Caroline Farrell is a sophomore double majoring in advertising and studio art and minoring in Russian. She is a movie fanatic, fashion enthusiast and lover of all things creative. @carollorr Alexa Diotallevi | Editor Lex Diotallevi is a sophomore double majoring in broadcast journalism and global studies. She is originally from NYC. Some fun facts: she loves to do makeup and thoroughly enjoys stalking foodstagrams. @lexdiotallevi Molly Weisner | Editor Molly is a first-year student from Charlotte, N.C. She plans to major in media and journalism and minor in French. Outside of school, she’s an avid waterskier and full-time café explorer who loves all things Parisian and Shakespeare. @mollyweisner WHAT’S YOUR #UPSIDE? This issue’s theme focuses on solidarity and the light of hope, even in darkness. Tell us about your personal inspirations for hope and optimism using the hashtag #myupside.

We will repost our favorites and tag you!

Instagram: @coulturemag Snapchat: @coulturemag Twitter: @coulturemag Facebook: facebook.com/coulturemagazine

coulture.org

Photos courtesy of Piper Anderson, Cassandra Cassidy, Alexandra Hehlen and Caroline Pirozzolo

table of contents 8

Culture Update

14

City Chic

16

Fashion News

Five artists challenging the way we talk about AIDS

Coulture fans from around the world share their favorite street style outfit photos

A look at how Project Runway embraces diversity and three clothing companies doing good for people and the planet

18

24

26

Winning Streak

Stay Mota-vated

Loafers

Currently trending styles, from checkered prints to sparkling tops, in a colorful, retro arcade

How Bethany Mota became a Youtube sensation after overcoming years of bullying

Fashion’s most versatile shoe is making a comeback

30

38

52

Beneath the Spotlight

The importance of engaging in something you love when the pressures of success infringe on your mental health

62

Looking for the Good

After seeing violence erupt at the Syrian border, Brian Harvey founded a media source that focuses on silver linings

84

Caught Our Eye

Debunking myths about Planned Parenthood

West World

Camera Obscura

A Western photoshoot complete with a goat named BamBam, colorful balloons and old-timey buildings

The forgotten beauty of film photography is experiencing a renaissance, and we’re showing you how to develop film at home

70

82

Open your mind and step into a surreal, colorful and daydreamy world where excitement is the ordinary

A review of the Acadamy Awardnominated film directed by Garth Davis

Unleashed

86

Connect

Three UNC students share their experiences about being mixed-race in America

Lion

88

Coordinate Me

Make your own sunshine on a rainy day with an outfit as practical as it is cute

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10

14

26

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6 | C | Creating this Issue

There is always an upside. Maybe that’s a classically optimistic thing to say, but we believe even if a glass stands half empty, the fuller half is still there – we just can’t always see it. In this issue, we are putting our wholehearted effort into discovering and unveiling the upside, into acknowledging difficulties, and then moving forward into positive action.

In a time when the domestic and international political landscapes roil with instability and every passing day seems to bring more worry than resolve, it is evermore important that we invest in positivity to avoid losing hope.

And what better to look to as guiding forces in this pursuit than fashion and art, the masters of weaving social instability and upheaval, or even outright negativity, into stunning works? Even the darkest, grimmest fashion shows, at the end of the day, distill the ugliest downsides into striking silhouettes and mind-boggling details. Paintings and sculptures borne of the most harrowing times still find themselves on gallery walls, with spectators marveling at composition, craftsmanship, and more importantly, a crystallized idea.

Despite naturally differing tastes, we can all agree that a fundamentally beautiful part of fashion and art is attention to detail, and ultimately, the process of design. In the finest of stitches and in the broadest of paint strokes – even in the intricacies of interior design and in the eclectic palette of a five-star meal – lies a fundamental drive to create, and this is, in itself, the upside.

In this issue we celebrate those creative thinkers who have risen from the ashes and used their talents to exhibit the upside, to craft a silver lining for more than just themselves. We strive to be our most creative yet, finding ways in which fashion, lifestyle and the arts upheave by uplifting. We delve into the journeys we take to find upsides in our lives, and we embrace the creative process as a means to bringing joy, overcoming adversity, and sharing experience.

The following pages feature a changemaker dedicated to spreading positive news, beauty companies doing good for people and the planet, a surreal photoshoot designed to jumpstart your imagination, plenty of balloons, and more.

In the throws of tragedy and despair, people often feel alone and hopeless. Some, though, are able to wrestle these feelings into art and fashion in order to share their experiences and let people know they are not alone. Some even dedicate their lives to brightening the darkest corners of human experience with beauty, wonder and imagination.

The inclination for optimism exists in all of us; we all have the power to look on the bright side. Our sincerest hope is that celebrating these heroes will inspire you, our dedicated readers, to find it within yourselves to do the same – to spread joy, to share your stories and to turn the bleakest of situations into sources of hope. We hope these pages ignite your imaginations and leave you strutting through life with a spring in your step.

Creating this Issue | C | 7

8 | C | Culture Update

Fila Kuti 1938-1997

Pioneer of AfroBeat – the combination of various genres of Western African music and American jazz – Fela Kuti was part of a generation of Nigerian artists who introduced Europe and the United States to art in West Africa. Although his cause of death remains controversial, the musician’s battle with AIDS did not stop him from releasing over 40 full-length albums.

Keith Haring

1958-1990 Keith Haring’s signature street art style has become synonymous with the 1980s.

Fun, but steeped with political meaning, Haring’s work owns the prognosis and subsequent struggels that accompanied his diagnosis with AIDS. One of his most well-known pieces, “Silence = Death,” illustrates the oppression he and his contemporaries faced and was subsequently used by the NewYork-City-based AIDS Coalition to Unleash Power.

5

artists who challenge the AIDS narrative

By Rachel Greene

Culture Update | C | 9

Mykki Blanco 1986-

In 2015 underground rapper Mykki Blanco announced that they have been HIV positive since 2011.

This marked a turning point in their career – Blanco received an overwhelmingly positive response and continues to make art, boldly and unapologetically advocating for the LGBTQ+ community.

Félix GonzálezTorres 1957-1996

Most noted for his poignant, conceptual art installations, Felix Gonzalez-Torres’ work reflects on living with AIDS and the culture that surrounds it.

“Portrait of Ross” is 175 pounds of candy, placed in a corner of whichever museum in which it is displayed.

Visitors are encouraged to take a piece. The diminishing weight of each installation mimics Gonzalez-Torres’s close friend, Ross, as he neared his death.

At

the end of 2016, the World Health Organization reported 36 million people around the world were living with AIDS. Since the beginning of the AIDS epidemic in 1981, the disease has killed 35 million people.

HIV/AIDS has been politicized and stigmatized since the onset of the epidemic.

In honor of World AIDS Day, on Dec. 1, we are taking a moment to recognize artists who have made significant contributions to the AIDS and LGBTQ+ communities.

Robert Mapplethorpe 1946-1989

Photographer and close friend of many pop culture icons (Debbie Harry, Patti Smith and Andy Warhol, to name a few), Robert Mapplethorpe’s work focused on liberating the gay male body. Since his death, the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation has donated millions of dollars to AIDS activism and research efforts.

10 | C | Cosmetique

As the days grow shorter and nights longer, it’s easy to feel consumed by the darkness. Try to resist the temptation to emulate the cold months with drab colors. Don’t feel limited by the darkness of this season, rather, use it to get out of your comfort zone and try something new. Color is your secret weapon this time of year - it’s a way for you to show off your inner light when surrounded by the greyness of winter. A somber day can instantly be made sunnier with dewy makeup and pops of color on our eyelids. Try a bold colored liner to help emphasize the light in your eyes. A brightly colored lip can help build your confidence, while using different shades of eyeshadows can bring a bit of fun into your everyday routine. Highlighter at key points of the face will make you literally shine in the darkness. As the days get colder and harsher, glowy skin will be essential in helping you fight the winter blues. Step out of your comfort zone this winter and show off your light in the darkness!

Written by Rachel Putnam, Sara Rich and Lindsay Rusczak Photographed by Elise Holsonback, Gabrielle Thompson and Alexis Fairbanks

Cosmetique | C | 11

light in the darkness

12 | C | Cosmetique

korean beauty

Written by Clara Wong Photographed by Elise Holsonback

THE ROUTINE

1

CLEANSER

Rich, foamy cleansers are fun to use and provide a deep cleanse for a brighter complexion.

2

EXFOLIATOR

Used weekly, physical and chemical exfoliators both act to clear away dead skin cells.

3

TONER

Toner refreshes your pores by whisking away any remaining gunk, while rebalancing the skin’s pH and adding light hydration. Note: Dry skin types should use a hydrating, lotion-based toner. Oily skin types should choose a water-based toner.

4

ESSENCE

Essences, which have higher doses of active ingredients, hydrate and strengthen the skin barrier. It boosts all the skincare steps ahead. Apply essence by patting it into your face with your hands.

5

Annyeong haseyo! From the outside looking in, the Korean skincare routine looks like the intimidating, too-coolfor-school chick with skin so perfect you get distracted noticing it during a conversation. What does she use? You wonder, Mountain yak milk moisturizer? Grecian spring water to wash her face?

In reality, Korean skincare is a bit less magical and a little more futuristic—South Korean skincare research is said to be anywhere between 10 to 25 years ahead of Europe’s. The Korean skincare routine is also a lengthier process—consisting of between seven to twelve steps, depending on your skin concerns.

Culturally, skincare also carries much heavier weight in the beauty industry. It’s the foundation of your makeup—not an afterthought that does or doesn’t get slapped on your face at the end of a long day.

Both sides of the globe are currently obsessed with staying glow’d up. We’ll go through a simplified routine of how SoKo beauty gurus achieve their famous dewy radiance. Simply depending on a radiant foundation isn’t enough—an intentional, flawless, all-day glow is fueled by a well-prepped base.

And you’re done! No problem, right? Those that stay committed swear by it, so you can bet we’ll be trying this routine out at night now! Grab your tools and let us know if you see a skin care revolution in your future.

SERUM

Serums are used to tackle your specific skin concerns— wrinkles, dark spots, dry patches, you name it.

There’s a serum for it.

6

MOISTURIZER

This denser layer of pure moisture seals in all your hard work.

7

SPF

This wouldn’t be a Korean beauty-inspired routine without a proper proclamation of the importance of keeping the sun’s rays out and away from your youthful skin.

MORE TIPS TO TRY • • •

Mix a pearl-infused primer or facial oil into your foundation or BB cream in a 1:2 ratio.

Keep eyes, lips, and cheeks coordinated and simple to keep the attention on the flawless, dewy base.

Korean Puppy Liner- Drag your eyeliner straight out, following the natural direction of your upper eyelid.

Cosmetique | C | 13

beauty companies doing good

By Clara Matthews, Shelby Brown, Lindsay Rusczak and Shadi Bakjityari

COSMETICS FOR A CAUSE

Ever wonder how makeup and social justice interact? Makeup can make people feel stronger and more confident, but not all women have the opportunity to put on their fierce faces with a little blush and bronzer. Going into a job interview or date, a little makeup here and there can make you feel a million times better and ready to conquer any situation. Thankfully, there is a company that aims to provide this feeling to everyone. Cosmetics for a Cause, a nonprofit founded in 2012, works to provide makeup for women in stressful situations.

Started by Erica Harreveld when she was only a junior in high school, Cosmetics for a Cause has one mission: to promote “Outer Beauty/Inner Strength.”

Harreveld, who struggled with acne as a teen, used makeup to feel empowered and to prevent her ‘impurities’ from making her feel less strong. Aiming to help other women in her position who cannot afford makeup, her company has collected and distributed over $1.5 million in beauty care items to those who need it.

So how does it work? Cosmetics for a Cause makes it easy for companies to donate their excess inventory and facilitates distribution of products. Individuals send in their makeup and Cosmetics for a Cause finds and distributes it to women in need. They turn a small donation into something bigger: the ability to empower any woman and to make her feel her best.

So next time you are looking for some new makeup to add to your collection, consider cleaning out your drawer and donating your unused items to Cosmetics for Cause. That $9 eyeliner you were thinking about buying but don’t need? Donate it to a woman who needs it instead! If makeup brightens your day, now you can help return the favor.

JUVIA’S PLACE

Juvia’s Place is a cosmetics company that specializes in eyeshadows and brushes – and we think they are some of the best in today’s beauty market.

Juvia’s Place eyeshadows are well known for their vibrancy and creaminess, and the company’s six palettes (The Saharan, Masquerade, Nubian, Nubian 2, The Zulu, and The Magic) are popular in the beauty community because of their superior formulation.

All Juvia’s Place products are cruelty-free, a majority of them are vegan and did we mention that they are also ridiculously affordable? Palettes range in price from $17.50 to $35.00 and contain between nine and 16 different colors per palette.

As of this fall, The Saharan palette is the company’s best-seller, featuring beautiful earthy tones that evoke the dry deserts of North Africa.

Owned by a Nigerian woman, Juvia’s Place ensures to include women of color in its offerings. A vast majority of the company’s Instagram account consists of customer photos taken by women of all colors, shapes and sizes, so that all women can see themselves in the brand.

Among the biggest fans of Juvia’s Place is NikkieTutorials, a popular YouTube beauty creator whose channel has over 7.5 million subscribers. “Juvia’s Place is my favorite eyeshadow brand,” she has said. “They create pure and utter magic – it’s like it came out of a unicorn’s a**, it’s so insanely good and so affordable.”

If you are looking for a new makeup brand to love, this is a great one. A company that does good for people (and your wallet), owned by POC and committed to being 100% cruelty-free? In today’s beauty realm, a combination of those things – in addition to good product – is hard to find.

Photos courtesy of Juvia’s Place and Ethique

MILK MAKEUP

The era of big brand dominance in the cosmetic industry is over. Small beauty brands with evident values and consumer bases have sprung up all over as of late. Milk Makeup is a company that encapsulates this recent phenomenon of emerging edgy, successful beauty labels that are both environmentally and socially aware.

With the co-founder of Milk Makeup, Georgie Greville, stating “[i]t’s this idea that the less makeup you wear, the sexier you are,” it is no surprise that the brand has a unique value proposition of low-maintenance beauty. However, the concept of low-maintenance beauty does not put quality or creativity on the backburner. Milk Makeup’s 85-piece line is entirely cruelty-free and comprised of high-end ingredients, such as: hydrating jojoba, coconut, and orange peel. These ingredients are the components of innovative makeup products that encourage experimentation as well as minimalism - especially since they can be used without makeup brushes or tools.

Innovative, edgy products like holographic highlighting sticks and lash stains epitomize the “cool girl” demographic to whom Milk Makeup caters. These products not only create flawless makeup looks, they also create flawless skin. For example, the highlighting stick (which is one of Milk Makeup’s best sellers) is infused with mango butter, peach nectar, and avocado oil. All of these ingredients work together to add hydration and nourishment to the skin. The lash stain mentioned earlier contains Vitamin B5 which promotes lash growth and softening.

The entire product line is packaged in playful yet sustainable packaging. Though Milk Makeup’s demographic might be referred to as the “cool girls,” the brand appeals to people of various genders. Over 5% of Milk Makeup’s customer base is male and the brand features men and transwomen in their lookbooks.

Milk Makeup validates that minimalist makeup and skincare brands are forces to be reckoned with - especially the ones that do good for people and the planet.

ETHIQUE

What do you think about when you’re in the shower?

While surrounded by the sweet smells of soap and steamy mist do you relive your day? Maybe you close your eyes for a second to try to pause the world. But do you ever think about the products that are washing over you? Surprisingly, shower products are mostly water, in fact shampoos and conditioners on average are 80% water! So why are we paying for products that are mostly water?

Luckily, University of Cambridge student Brianne West found a solution that would completely change the way we shower. West, a biology major, was working in the lab when she found a creative way to solidify shampoo and other beauty products.

Her idea? Beauty bars. Starting from crowdfunding campaigns and investors, West created her company, Ethique, which has grown into a shower-product powerhouse. Since the formation of the company, Ethique continues to do good for the Earth and its people. The beauty bars are made from 100% vegan products that are produced sustainably. Ingredients such as cocoa butter come from fair trade sources in the Dominican Republic and Samoa. Ethique believes that by paying fair prices for resources, the workers are supported, which can lead to more environmental responsibility. By putting the soap in bar form, she also found a way to save water. Why pay to add water to a waterbased product? The different beauty bars can be used for the face, body, or hair, some of which include face cleansers, shaving bars, makeup removers, deodorants and body washes. There is a large variety, so there is something for everyone!

Reinventing the game is what Ethique is all about.

Starting with shampoo, the company has grown to change the beauty industry by doing good for the planet and its people. If you are interested in sustainability, fair trade, and amazing products, give Ethique a try!

14 | C | City Chic

city

chic

The coolest catwalk is one you can find in any city—the street. Cobblestones and

crosswalks are accessible to anyone, offering the perfect backdrop for a show case of individuality. There’s no better upside in life than a powerful outfit, whether it’s those boots that make you strut or that moto jacket that makes you feel like tackling life at full speed. We called for submissions and you killed it. Students and

Coulture fans from all over the globe are taking to the streets in the name of style, and their outfits leave us with an adoring daze.

SHANGHAI, CHINA

Photo courtesy of Dhvani Manoj

FLORENCE, ITALY

Photo courtesy of Claire Hyde

CHAPEL HILL, NC

Photo courtesy of Evan White

DUINO, ITALY

C

Photos courtesy of Ethan Knowles

16 | C | Fashion News

ahead of the curve

“Project Runway” introduces new cast of size-inclusive models

by Niki Wasserman

With the overarching goal of promoting diversity in the fashion industry, Season 16 of “Project Runway” featured models ranging from sizes 0 to 22. While Lifetime’s reality-competition series has tasked contestants with designing outfits for women of different sizes in previous seasons, Season 16 served as the first time that the designers would consistently work with various body types.

In recent years, the fashion industry has strived to be more inclusive. Brands have featured plus-size models more frequently in both advertising campaigns and runway shows, promoting the idea that all body types deserve to be celebrated. When “Project Runway” host Heidi Klum and judges Nina Garcia and Zac Posen appeared on “Good Morning America” to discuss the show’s new season, Garcia expressed how she was pleased that show was following the examples set by the industry.

As a mainstream television show, “Project Runway” is also helping pave the way for more inclusivity. With over 1.7 million viewers during Season 15, the show has the potential to make an impact.

Even though the new cast of models is one small change to the show’s format, “Project Runway” has the power to emphasize the importance of a body-positive mindset to fans, designers and models.

Ashley Nell Tipton, the winner of Season 14, continually emphasized the importance of body positivity throughout her appearance on the show. She designed her final collection specifically for plussize women and featured models of various sizes during her runway show. After taking

home the top prize, Tipton went on to collaborate with JCPenney for a plus-size collection.

Other designers associated with “Project Runway” have also made efforts to design for women of many sizes. Posen, a judge since 2012, is known for designing red-carpet gowns for all different body types and has worked with celebrities such as Oprah, Natalie Portman and Lena Dunham. Similarly, Christian Siriano, the winner of Season 4 of “Project Runway,” made headlines in 2016 when he designed a dress for actress Leslie Jones. Jones teamed up with Siriano after she claimed that she had trouble finding designers willing to work with her and provide her with a dress that was not the typical sample size. Jones’ struggles further emphasized the importance of embracing diversity within the industry.

Along with the goal of promoting inclusivity and acceptance in all facets of fashion, the new set of models for “Project Runway” also challenged the contestants on a practical level. The designers will be able to develop a more diverse skillset as they design pieces for real women of every size each week.

For over a decade, “Project Runway” has played a crucial role in setting and following trends in the fashion industry, and with its most recent season, the show is spreading the message that body positivity is always in style.

Fashion News | C | 17

three clothing companies doing good for people and the planet

by Cassandra Cassidy, Shadi Bakhtiyari and Sterling Sidebottom

EVERLANE Transparency is not often a word used to describe a clothing brand.

In 2010, Michael Preysman, founder of Everlane, decided to become the exception. Everlane, an online-only, minimalist brand, is upfront about how much each item costs to make, as well as the factory in which it is produced. The result is quality, ethical clothing at affordable prices that creates an incredibly loyal, dedicated and trusting customer base.

Everlane started with basic t-shirts and expanded into jackets, shoes and tops, but its most recent product exemplifies its true commitment to sustainability—denim. Denim is notorious for harming the environment during its production, with as much as 1,500 liters of water used to wash one pair of jeans. Everlane’s factory—a LEED-certified facility that recycles 98% of its water—can make a pair of jeans using as little as 0.4 liters.

Furthermore, Everlane challenges fast fashion and unethical factory practices by documenting each factory they use, from the owners, to the conditions, to the materials. Any customer can visit the Everlane website and find pictures of what the factory looks like in Vicenza, Italy, that makes their leather bag, or how the workers in Ho Chi Minh City make their knit sweater. This level of transparency establishes a relationship between a customer and the individual who produced their clothing while creating a space for ethical apparel production at affordable prices.

Whether you start with a t-shirt or dive right in with a pair of modern loafers, Everlane makes it easy to look put-together without any guilt.

ME to WE ME to WE is an artisan jewelry company founded in 2008 by brothers Craig and Marc Keilberg with the goal of building sustainable villages in Africa. When the Keilbergs were in middle school, they saw the economic plight of Africa for the first time. It was then that the two decided their career path and how they would contribute to charitable efforts.

In order to sustain their venture, ME to WE sells beaded bracelets, handcrafted rings and artisan necklaces made by women in the Maasai region of Africa. Half of all proceeds from the jewelry are donated to the company’s partner, Free the Children, a charity that helps to free enslaved children from around the world and provide them with an education. The other half of the proceeds is used to help create sustainable villages for the same communities that craft the jewelry.

ME to WE focuses on allowing youth to help create the sustainable villages that ME to WE is building. In exchange for the women of the Maasai tribes crafting the artisan jewelry, ME to WE, along with Free the Children, builds schools and water pumps, plants trees and donates medical supplies. After five years, ME to WE leaves the village, allowing the community to continue to prosper on their own and use their new resources.

ME to WE sells its products online and in a store near their Toronto-based headquarters. Their rafiki bracelets, made from glass beads using traditional Maasai beading techniques, are the most popular item they sell. Four years ago, ME to WE began their partnership with Nordstrom and recently expanded to Bloomingdale’s with the help of spokesmodel Winnie Harlow. As a brand, ME to WE continues to grow and, in turn, grows sustainable villages around the world.

REFORMATION Consumers have spoken and their value for eco-friendly sustainable clothing has become evident to fashion labels. As a result, fast-fashion brands and department stores have taken a hit by companies that focus on limited, well-crafted quantities. The limited factor of these quickly emerging brands contributes to their success, since items sell out quickly because buyers have to act fast. Reformation is an example of a quick-to-success fashion company that has prospered using this business model.

Reformation recently gained popularity, garnering the attention of a myriad of stylish A-list celebrities such as Rihanna, Emily Ratajkowski, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Karlie Kloss, who is an investor for the company. Though the brand is a favorite among the fashion elite, the clothing is priced in a range that makes it affordable for the average shopper, including college students and environmental enthusiasts.

There are multiple components of Reformation’s clothing production process that justify its title as sustainable. First, the brand’s designers repurpose clothing that they purchase from vintage clothing sellers.

Also, the brand utilizes sustainable fabric and purchases excess fabric or scraps from other designers and clothing brands. The actual creation of Reformation’s clothing is completed in a Los Angeles-based factory, which allows for a smaller carbon footprint as well as the application of ethical labor practices and conditions, making it a certified B-corps company, meaning that the brand has been recognized as a proponent of social and environmental change. With their tag line, “killer clothes that don’t kill the environment,” Reformation aims to reform the future of the fashion industry.

18 | C | Currently Trending

WINNING STREAK

There’s something to be said for the style of punk rock. It’s a little glam, a little grunge and a little old-school. It’s checkered patterns, statement jackets and a weathered pair of sneakers. Every once in a while, it’s important to have some fun with your life. You never know—you just might find yourself in a winning streak.

Photographed by Elise Holsonback, Alexis Fairbanks, Sean T. Bailey and Sabah Kadir Styled by Caroline Pirozzolo. Susie Altz and Jordan KongQuee Modeled by Emma Karlok, Tylor Moore, Gage Tarlton, Serena Singh, JoLynn Smith and Jordan KongQuee Shirt Topshop; pants Zara; shoes Vans

On Emma (left): Top and skirt shop similar at Rumors; on Tylor (right): Shirt shop similar at Rumors

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Dress Target; fishnet stockings ASOS

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Blazer H&M

80 22 || CC || Currently Photo Feature Trending

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Shirt and pants Zara

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Jacket shop similar at Rumors

26 | C | Style Feature

STAY

MOTA VATED

Style Feature | C | 27

Making it through when there’s no upside in sight

by Chloe E. Williams

If you could go back in time and show preteen Bethany Mota a picture of herself today, happily surrounded by friends and in charge of her own thriving YouTube channel, she would not believe her eyes.

Mota, now 21, grew up in the small town of Los Banos, California, with her parents and her older sister. She was always a shy child who sat by silently because, as she explains in her new book Make Your Mind Up, “I was scared of saying the wrong thing.”

Soon, the pendulum swung in the opposite direction, and she started trying too hard to be funny, loud and social. This surprised her sister’s friends, a number of whom thought Mota was actually mute. The novelty of being social quickly wore off as Mota realized that constantly pretending to be someone she wasn’t was exhausting.

She entered public school in the third grade, following an early homeschool education, and when she was around 12 years old, she came across a MySpace page in her name that she did not remember creating.

It did not take Mota long to discover that the page was designed by some girls she actually knew, who updated it so that it would look like she was making fun of herself. Pictures of Mota from her real profile had been copied to this fake page, and it looked like she was calling herself fat and ugly as well as criticizing everything that she wore. Mota realized she was a victim of cyberbullying.

She had never considered anything negative about her physical appearance before, and having this piece of her innocence taken away by other girls at such a young age shattered Mota’s view of the world.

“Whoever made that page about me had ripped a hole in how I felt about myself,” she continues in her book.

“I WASN’T SURE IF BEING MYSELF WAS GOOD ENOUGH ANYMORE.” She finally confided in her parents, but their encouragement and compassion alone could not fix Mota’s situation. After this incident, she was crippled by anxiety and eventually began to use YouTube as a means of escaping both her thoughts about the whole ordeal and her newfound self-doubt. She discovered that she loved watching beauty and fashion videos.

After a few months of debating whether or not she wanted to venture into the world of YouTube, which was rooted in a fear of rejection that she did not want to acknowledge, Mota uploaded her first makeup haul video.

She held up different products from M.A.C. and Sephora to the camera, commenting on their pigmentation, the size of the bottles and pointing out which were her favorites, all with the shy, quiet voice for which she was known. She knew next to nothing about makeup, but was able to make cohesive remarks about each product she reviewed.

Mota kept checking back into the video to see if

anyone was watching, knowing that because of the high volume of videos uploaded every second, getting noticed would be difficult. She began to get excited as she watched the view count rise, until she realized that all of the views were her own.

Eight years and hundreds of beauty, fashion, and lifestyle videos later, Mota has five million followers on both Twitter and Instagram. She has been featured on “Good Morning America,” served as the cover girl in an issue of the international publication Girls’ Life Magazine and even had the opportunity to interview President Barack Obama in 2015 with fellow YouTubers, Hank Green and Glozell.

Mota was also a contestant on Season 19 of “Dancing with the Stars”, served as a guest judge during Season 13 of “Project Runway”, and released a clothing line in 2013 with Aéropostale.

Mota manages to whisper assurances through a cacophony of other voices telling young girls that they need makeup and need to lose those ten pounds, audibly declaring in the majority of her videos that each of her viewers are beautiful and loved.

In every video she creates, Mota includes all of the bloopers and silly stories that happen while filming the video, such as when she stayed awake all night baking macarons because she kept messing up the recipe. This adds further authenticity to a platform that can be so artificial, where the final product can be edited, photoshopped and polished. Mota keeps this facade at arm’s length.These bloopers show that Mota is just like every other young woman on the planet: funny, loud, sometimes awkward, and most importantly, not perfect. She is still trying to find herself.

Mota has a very unique relationship with her viewers, dubbed “Motavators”. She sees the same viewers at meet and greets and book signings, and participates in the annual Best Camp Ever, where she and YouTuber Tyler Oakley spend a week in Connecticut zip lining, making arts and crafts and canoeing with fans.

In a time when she felt she had lost her voice and thought that there was no upside, Mota found hope by discovering her passion and pursuing it wholeheartedly. Her new book, “Make Your Mind Up,” chronicles this adventure of self-discovery, mixing earnest advice with fashion, beauty and healthy living inspiration.

When featured on “The Ellen Show,” Mota said, “In the end my main goal for what I do is to kind of just promote self-love and self-confidence, and taking a bad situation and making it into something amazing.” With just over 10 million YouTube subscribers, she’s off to a pretty great start.

Macbarbie07 BethanyMota Thebethnoel bethanynoelm

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Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks

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L oafers :

THE EVOLUTION OF FASHION’S MOST VERSATILE SHOE

By Madison Godfrey

There is an old saying that fashion fades but style is forever. Simply put, this expression refers to the fact that trends are constantly changing. However, some pieces seem never to go out of style. Speaking to shoes specifically, the fashion world is constantly looking to change the “it” item of footwear. From mules, to seven-inch stilettos, to platform sneakers - the runway has seen it all. There is one shoe, though, that has remained a prevalent piece for many of the world’s most distinguished designers: loafers.

Considered to some as the “Little Black Dress” of footwear, the loafer, although not the sexiest shoe, has the ability to tie together both a simple outfit and an outrageous getup just as well as any heel. The loafer’s rise to fame begins with not one shoe, but with two: the Bass Weejun and the Gucci loafer. The Bass Weejun, first made almost a century ago in 1936, was not intended to be a woman’s statement item but rather a men’s shoe. During that time period, it was very common for women to buy and wear boy’s shoes, so much so that Bass released a more feminine version two years later. The company, rather than introducing just a simple loafer, made the shoe more fashionable by adding a decorative strap that ran horizontally across the vamp of the loafer. This strap was cut in a shape that resembled lips, and included a small opening at the center that, coincidentally, was the perfect size and shape for a small round object, such as a penny. Thus, the name “penny loafer” was born.

The shoe embodied the perfect mix of informality and comfort and became a college staple across the United States, similar to the Converse shoe in present times. The loafer became the collegiate shoe of not only the 1930s but also for the next three decades to follow, as it continued to make its mark on campuses. The trend included students and some perfesionals, some women and men from every walk of style - from James Dean to JFK.

As the popularity of the loafer continued to prevail, major fashion labels began to take notice. Upon its expansion to New York city in 1953, Gucci put out its own version of the loafer that took an elegant, Italian spin on the classic leather slip-on. The company was able to craft its own staple shoe by refining the lines, adding what would become their signature snaffle, and most importantly, making it in black. These details gave the shoe just enough formality to make it a work shoe when worn with a suit, but could still be dressed down for a classic, more casual look.

In its early days, this glamorous shoe was only made for men, but quickly spread to the female shoe market. Once they graduated college and entered the working world, Weejun enthusiasts eventually traded in their go-to college shoe for the Gucci loafer. Again, the loafer was seen on all types of highpowered people: lawyers, business executives, Wall Street stockbrokers, and even the world’s leaders.

The loafer continued to evolve and adapt throughout the following 50 years and continues to do so today. Loafers are a staple item of many fall collections, as their versatility and comfort levels make them not only attractive to runway models, but also to more humble fashionistas. Whether you are going out to dinner with friends or have a work luncheon, this shoe is a go-to. The loafer can be style with a pencil skirt and blouse or a suit, for a more formal look, or with jeans, a sweater, and a statement belt, for a more casual outing. It appears as if this shoe, like one’s personal sense of style, will never fade.

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save your

s k i n

By Katie Plampton

August’s total solar eclipse had UNC-Chapel Hill students looking up; it also made them think about protecting their eyes from the permanent damage that could result from staring directly at the spectacle. Young people, however, are ignoring another type of potentially permanent damage caused by exposure to the sun’s harmful rays--a threat that exists every day of the year.

Skin cancer, as defined by the Skin Cancer Foundation, is the “uncontrolled growth of abnormal skin cells.” These abnormal skin cells most commonly appear when ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun or from tanning beds causes DNA damage to cells, triggering mutations that result in the rapid multiplication of skin cells and the formation of malignant tumors.

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sun exposure myths sun exposure myths

ccording to Dr. Adewole Adamson, Assistant Professor of Dermatology at the UNC-CH School of Medicine, “the most concerning type of skin cancer that [UV exposure] can put you at risk for is melanoma, which is a potentially deadly form of skin cancer.” Dr. Adamson adds, “there seems to be an increase in the amount that we see in people that are much younger.”In fact, melanoma is one of the most common types of cancer found in young adults, particularly in young women. The American Academy of Dermatology states that for females age 15-29, melanoma is the second most common type of cancer, and the incidence of melanoma is increasing faster than it is among men of the same age group. This disparity may reflect indoor tanning behavior that is much more common in females than males.

Whether it be through exposure to UV light in a tanning bed, on the beach, or while sitting on the quad, dermatologists say one of the most important risk factors for developing skin cancer is getting sunburned. Sunburn symptoms include pain, redness, itching, and in especially severe burns, possible blistering and peeling of the skin. Yet there is more to a sunburn than annoying itching, redness and peeling. According to Dr. Adamson, a sunburn indicates damage to the DNA in the top layer of the skin, and in cases when the skin peels, the cells “have been damaged to the point where they end up sloughing off.” Unfortunately, the damage does not disappear with the sunburn. “In the studies where they try to figure out the relationship between skin cancer and sun exposure, among the strongest links that they’ve shown is, for young people at least, having a lot of significant sunburns as a kid,” says Dr. Adamson.

“Prolonged sun exposure, with or without a sunburn, is important, but in particular, having blistering sunburns,” he adds.

The damage that can result from sun exposure, however, is not limited to the effects of a sunburn. First, you do not need to get burned to increase your risk for skin cancer. “I don’t want to minimize chronic sun exposure that is below the threshold of getting burned,” says Dr. Adamson. He clarifies, “that can also contribute to your risk of having skin cancer.” Second, while skin cancer is the most obvious negative consequence of sun exposure, there are other consequences that young people tend to forget. “Premature aging, wrinkling, getting more moles, your skin . . . turning different colors” are all unwanted side effects of getting too much sun, says Dr. Adamson. Regarding wrinkling especially, the lasting sun damage has effects deep within the skin. According to Dr. Adamson, wrinkle development is “the sun’s rays penetrating deeper than the surface of your skin and breaking down the collagen, and by that remodeling process, you end up with these deep furrows and wrinkles.”

In short, sun exposure carries serious risks, and the damage done during a week at the beach or a trip to the tanning bed can last a lifetime. Current estimates say that one in five Americans will develop skin cancer at some point in their lives, as reported by the American Academy of Dermatology. The good news is that the negative consequences of sun damage on your health are largely preventable through using sunscreen and paying attention to your body. Dr. Adamson recommends using a sunscreen of at least SPF 30, and not just when you are at the beach or when it is sunny out, but every day. He also stresses the importance of avoiding tanning beds at all costs. “It’s like smoking. There’s no safe amount of smoking that you can do,” he says.

Though some dermatologists recommend that every person should see a dermatologist once a year, Dr. Adamson differs in his advice. “I would say that we have not yet proven that seeing a dermatologist every single year saves lives. So I cannot make the recommendation that everyone should see a dermatologist every single year.” He adds, though, that “if you have a family history of melanoma, you are a chronic tanning bed user, or you’ve had five or more blistering . . . sunburns, see a dermatologist to determine what your risk is.” If you do not fall into one of those categories, Dr. Adamson recommends seeing a dermatologist if you have any concerning spot on your body that is new, changing, painful, or bleeding. A good rule of thumb to follow when you find a suspicious mole is the ABCDE rule: Asymmetry, Border irregularity, Color (not uniform), Diameter larger than 6 mm (approximately the size of a pencil eraser), and Evolving shape, size or color.

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Getting a “base tan” in a tanning bed before going on vacation will prevent you from getting burnt or from UV damage There is no truth to the idea that getting a base tan will prevent later UV damage. According to Dr. Adamson, this “only increases your risk of getting skin cancer later on.” Research suggests, however, that the best way to change the tanning behavior of young people is not to inform them of the long term negative effects, like skin cancer, but of more immediate effects. Dr. Adamson says a study by Seth Noar, of the UNCCH School of Media and Journalism, showed “the response that people have to public health messages surrounding whether to go tanning are a lot more effective if they focus on the immediate, like the wrinkling and the premature aging, versus the long term effects like skin cancer.”

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Having darker skin means you do not need to worry about damage from sun exposure

Individuals with darker skin tones can also suffer damage from the sun’s rays.

Dark skin can tan and even burn with prolonged UV exposure. However, the level of damage is much lower than in light skin, due to “the higher concentration of melanin which serves as a natural sunscreen,” says Dr. Adamson.

The risk of developing skin cancer due to sun exposure is therefore much lower among people with skin of color. While daily application of sunscreen is not likely to reduce the risk of skin cancer any further for people with darker skin, wearing sunscreen helps to prevent the risks of photoaging that are associated with sun exposure. These effects include wrinkling, freckling, and other issues, and they affect people of all skin tones.

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Spotting the

LIGHT

By Elisabeth Beauchamp

In a world that places so much importance on perfection and commends competitive tendencies, men and women alike have tumbled into self-deprecation and negativity. The academic and fashion worlds often pit people against each other in the battle to be the best.

Some individuals, however, have found a silver-lining in which self-appreciation exists--the arts. Art allows people to pour their soul into their work, to create a product that lives on and inspires. Art is a silver-lining in the overly competitive, dog-eat-dog world in which we live. It is a world where an alarming number of young adults battle depression every day, and eating disorders run rampant across school campuses. We live in a culture where mental health is put on the backburner and mental illness is almost expected of young people who can list selfdeprecation as their number one time commitment outside of constant stress and lack of sleep.

According to a 2013 study by the American Psychological Association, 48.7% of college students sought out mental health counseling, while 30.3% seriously considered committing suicide. Additionally, DoSomething.org, an online campaign for body positivity, states 91% of women are dissatisfied with their bodies and 58% of college students feel pressured to lose weight. Apparently, college students have been hit with an epidemic of not feeling worthy of the happiness they search so hard to find. In high school, many students cram AP classes into their schedules, take and retake standardized tests and often suppress their interests like art, dance and theatre, in pursuit of a higher GPA. That same academic pressure exists and often worsens after students get into the college.

“48.7% OF COLLEGE STUDENTS SOUGHT OUT MENTAL HEALTH COUNSELING, WHILE 30.3% SERIOUSLY CONSIDERED COMMITTING SUICIDE.�

Grades still define success, resumes still need to be dazzling with achievement and the outside world awaits students after graduation. Some of the following students found themselves in the grasps of mental illness, unable to see their worth and appreciate the abilities they possess as individuals. However, their stories intertwine to show one amazing truth: The

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arts are an imitation of life – a beautiful life that is accessible even when hope seems nowhere in sight.

Michael Sparks, a first-year at The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, went to an in-state high school and crowded his schedule with accelerated classes. Apart from the academic pressure, Sparks struggled with insecurities regarding his body and weight stemming from being bullied during his childhood. By the time he reached middle school, Sparks says he “had no self-confidence, no sense of who [he] was, or even who [he] wanted to be.” However, in sixth grade, Sparks’ thinking changed. While reading Lord of the Rings he realized he wanted to write a story. He wanted to create the magic he saw through the friendships and loyalty of these characters. Shortly after this epiphany, he bought a notebook and started writing in it each day. After filling the entire book with stories, Sparks’ teacher, who had noticed him eagerly writing each day, gave him the chance to read his creation to the class. “The rush I got from telling my story, something I created, to a group of people was unlike anything I had ever felt before in my life,” he explains.

Although Sparks had discovered the power of art, he found himself buried in the obsessive tendencies and negativity stemming from an eating disorder. He picked up weight training and trained until he broke the Juvenile Deadlifting World Record by over 100 pounds. After working out for eight hours at a school wrestling camp, some teammates dared Sparks to eat a bite of pizza. He took the dare out of peer pressure and then forced himself to run for half an hour to work off the single bite he had eaten. Throughout his high school years, Sparks continued to engage in obsessive behaviors and control everything he consumed.

As his sophomore year rolled around and classes ensued, art made its way to Sparks again. While helping a friend make a video for his English class, Sparks was struck by the filmmaking process and began researching everything on the topic. Along with his involvement in drama, musical theater and chorus classes, Sparks’ interest in filmmaking took (and still takes) up a good portion of his free-time. But now his interests do not take up his time for the wrong reasons.

He used to exercise as a form of self-punishment. Now he exercises to feel physically well and to seek self-improvement.

Sparks expresses his love for his art by saying, “I pursued filmmaking and music with a fiery passion. I have participated in state choral groups, summer music festivals, and a cappella groups. Through all of these things, I have made life-long friends and completely changed my life.” He still regularly lifts weights and exercises, but now he knows he is not doing it to punish himself. Sparks realized if he approached exercise with the right mindset, it could give him the same positive rush he gets onstage or behind a camera. He says: “I’m no longer the small kid who cowered in fear from bigger children. I’m proud of who I am, and I love everything about me. I wouldn’t have gotten here without my friends, or without that teacher who told me I should show my work to the world. I wouldn’t be who I am today if it wasn’t for the beauty of art.”

Another UNC student, sophomore Kinsey Watson, tells the story of how she used her childhood interest in theater to reach a point of positivity. As the daughter of a woman who participated in drama during high school, Watson grew up appreciating the arts. She became heavily involved in her community theater in 2011 after auditioning for her first show “Merry Christmas, Strega Nona.” She remembers seeing the upside through her art after winning the Al Wolfheimer Volunteer Award for her work as a production assistant.

Around her junior year of high school, Watson started experiencing feelings of depression and showing signs of severe introversion. These struggles continued into her first semester at UNC when Watson says she “cried every single day and sometimes felt sad for no reason.” She found herself uninterested in things that once lit her up with passion and spent the majority of her time trapped in feelings of hopelessness and loneliness. During the second semester, Watson decided to stage manage a show for a studentrun theater company. Throughout her involvement, she remembered how it felt to be awarded for her work backstage.

Despite her inner struggles and her view of herself, her sense

of self-worth grew by participating in and being appreciated for doing something she loves.

Watson says the arts are so important in the battle against depression because they serve as an outlet for emotions. Artists can pour their negativity into a physical form that helps them better understand their feelings. Watson also explains she practices self-care and honors her worth by simply trying to eat healthy, getting enough rest and washing her face. To Watson, taking care of her body reminds her to take care of her mind as well. She has continued her involvement in theater and spends much of her time as a stage manager with UNC’s student-led LAB! Theatre Company. She does not plan to leave the stage soon because she “has seen [art] prove its beauty time and time again.”

Joanna Zhang, a second-year Psychology and Cognitive Science major at UNC, reached out to share her story of how the arts saved her after experiencing heart break. During summer of 2017, Zhang entered a relationship with a boy and quickly found herself falling for him. She and her boyfriend connected so quickly because they both shared an interest in music, and more specifically the art of DJing -- which she learned during her involvement with the Chapel Hill radio station during the spring semester. They connected by exchanging favorite bands and artists. By the close of summer, the relationship ended, crushing Zhang and tainting her passion for music. “He was the first person I ever loved. It sucked a lot because all of our mutual friends were DJs and I couldn’t hang out with my best friend, who’s also his best friend, without thinking of him,” she explains. Zhang fell into depression accompanied by disordered behaviors. The distressed state of her body and mind led to physical sickness and inability to eat without throwing up. Days she used to spend mixing music and searching for new artists turned into days lying in bed alone for hours on end.

When Zhang returned to school for the fall semester, she immediately returned to the broadcast studio and pursued DJing with hope. “I made sure I didn’t let this bad experience taint my perception of the station. I took shift after shift,” she explains. Instead of leaving the station to avoid memories of her heartbreak, she got even more involved in order to remind herself of her passion for the art. She addressed her negative feelings by making an extensive set of songs about moving on from the the sadness she experienced.

This step in the path to acceptance led Zhang to realize why the arts are so important during hard times. She says, “The music gave me closure he couldn’t give to me. I was able to create a set that held all of my bad memories and negative feelings and then to play the set and release them for good.”

Zhang fondly remembers a call-in during one of her shows. A man called Zhang to tell her he had listened to her moving-on show and remembers having his heart broken in college. He told her of how he got through it and now has a wife and family. “He put things into perspective and gave me hope that if he could be heartbroken and be where I am right now, yet overcome it, I can too one day. I have so much time.

I feel like that’s so easy to forget when you’re caught in the right-now,” she said.

The stories of these three students provide insight on how art can change one’s mindset, release negativity and reset one’s view of themself.

Although only three different art forms and three mental battles are mentioned here, countless are present everywhere you go. It is important to be aware that mental illness is often where you least expect it and is valid no matter what the situation. Engaging in something you love can act as medicine during times of self-deprecation and negativity; however, if you are facing mental illness of any kind, please seek professional help. CAPS, the Counseling and Psychological Services for UNC, is open to students Monday through Thursday, from 9:00a.m.-12:00p.m. and from 1:00p.m.-4:00p.m., and on Friday from 9:30a.m.-12:00p.m. and 1:00p.m.-4:00p.m. To access more information on these services, visit https://campushealth.unc.edu. Remember Picasso’s words that “art washes away from the soul the dust of everyday life,” and embrace yourself.

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By Joanna Zhang

F

or the past 10 years, The Old Wood Co. has cared about two things: how the company’s product looks and how it’s made. Based in the thriving River Arts District of Asheville, NC, The Old Wood Co. takes materials from irreparable, forgotten structures and transforms them into stunning, innovative and environmentally-friendly pieces of high-quality furniture and decor for customers including the likes of Starbucks Coffee.

Corporate social responsibility (CSR), a buzzword for big businesses, has gained momentum in the past decade as consumers increasingly care about the ethics of the businesses they patronize. In response, companies have focused marketing efforts on building relationships with clients to gain their trust and better understand their needs as product buyers.

Yet, not enough attention is paid to the ethical implications of the product itself. Non-renewable energy usage, outsourcing and poor environmental impact reporting are just a few ways companies cut CSR corners. And while there are some companies that do care about the origin of the products they put out into the world, this is oftentimes the exception rather than the norm. The Old Wood Co., however, is one of those exceptions.

“IT’S NOT ALWAYS ABOUT WHO OFFERS THE LOWEST PRICE, BUT WHO OFFERS THE HIGHEST VALUE.”

Darren Green, founder and owner of The Old Wood Co., graduated college in 1997 and spent the next few years dabbling in the culinary arts. While he enjoyed making things from scratch, Green soon realized he would rather be building than baking; as a fourth generation builder in a family well-known in the furniture industry, Green decided to pivot.

For the next eight years, he worked for various furniture companies across North Carolina, including established home goods suppliers Thayer Coggin and LEE Industries. During his tenure working in the furniture industry, Green Photo courtesy of Darren Green

Arts Feature | C | 35 discovered a passion for the design and production of aesthetic modern furniture.

He thought he could develop a whole new look and brand that had not been created yet. Finally, in 2007, after getting married and having his first child, Green decided he was ready for the next adventure in his life, and thus The Old Wood Co. was born.

Since 1998, North Carolina has been one of the largest lumber-producing states in America. Although the thriving lumber industry has benefited the local economy, it has also played a role in excessive deforestation and the deterioration of natural habitats in the Tar Heel State. Green soon realized after embarking on the Old Wood journey that he wanted to create a company that could compete in the marketplace while also making high-quality, environmentally-friendly products.

Using reclaimed wood minimizes the environmental consequences associated with furniture building by taking wood from used and discarded items and upcycling the salvageable parts of the structure. It is similar to “thrifting,” in the sense that Old Wood acquires its materials from existing items, instead of directly from a tree or forest. This process is a healthier alternative for the environment because it reduces the amount of trees that are cut down each year, as well as the energy needed to construct a furniture piece from raw materials.

In recent years, the furniture industry has evolved. “The furniture industry has shifted away from being based on materials and design, to being simply a commodity industry based on cost and lead time,” Green said. This competitive pricing model, typically used by Asian exporters, has disrupted the traditional manufacturing structure unique to North Carolina. Over the past few years, imports from outsourced labor in Asia have deteriorated the domestic manufacturing of the home furnishing industry, which has been so vital to the people of North Carolina.

Green set out on a mission: to create a company that makes one-of-akind, customizable products that revive the morale of an industry that was once locally-dominated. “It’s not always about who offers the lowest price, but who offers the highest value,” Green said.

Green’s goal to provide products that are locally made and locally distributed represents a revival in North Carolina’s formerly booming furniture industry, which has been weathered by competition from cheaper, but less sustainable outsourced labor efforts.

There are several ways in which The Old Wood Co. champions sustainability while making beautiful art and furniture. First off, the company remains self-aware regarding the type of energy it uses – as well as the byproducts it creates – during each step of the production process. In addition to reclaimed wood, the company uses water and whey-based finishes that are nontoxic to the environment, eco-safe waxes, LED lighting, recycled steel and recycled packaging materials.

The company also makes use of 100% recycled paper for company literature, including the bookkeeping system. These efforts serve as energy alternatives

Owner and founder Darren Green proudly represents Asheville’s River Arts District. Photos Courtesy of Darren Green.

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The Old Wood Co. has taken on a new, refreshing definition of sustainability. “Being sustainable means not only utilizing environmentally and socially responsible materials, but also providing a living wage to your employees, health care opportunities, time off and a safe and engaging work environment,” Green said.

Not only is the production process important, but so is the look of the product itself. The Old Wood Co. specializes in creating striking furniture and decor that can be personalized for the consumer. “I continue to be inspired by smart designs, new materials, new finishes and new equipment,” Green said. As the company ages, he is determined to retain its innovative style and keep working with new clients to hone the skills of his team.

Starbucks Coffee is one of The Old Wood Co.’s largest and longest-standing clients. Old Wood is highly involved in creating artistic, wooden pieces and wall art for Starbucks stores across the nation in high profile cities, as well as in smaller North Carolina stores.

One of Green’s most iconic works includes two solid wood pieces for two Starbucks Reserve stores in New York. These wood pieces feature a dramatic, rustic structure that attaches from the ceiling and overlooks the bar area. The wood structures are arranged in an abstract, but simple way and are stylistically complemented by hanging lights and matching wooden stools. Today, Green continues to partner with Starbucks, and he is currently working on an inventive wall art piece in Seattle, Starbucks’ hometown.

Moving forward, The Old Wood Co. will continue to focus on the development and production of high quality pieces for its clients, including Panera Bread, Marriott International and Alamo Drafthouse.

Despite these partnerships with large corporations, The Old Wood Co. still takes immense pride in connecting with the local community and collaborating with artists from Asheville. Most recently, Green collaborated with Hoss Haley, a sculptor based in Asheville to combine Green’s reclaimed wood art with Haley’s metalwork. Green has collaborated with other notable North Carolina artists, including Tim Barnwell, Matthew Waldrop and Brian Fireman.

The Old Wood Co.’s focus on socially-conscious manufacturing brings unique challenges, especially when it comes to its recycled resources. Green explains that the company takes extra care in ensuring the reclaimed materials are kiln-dried to kill any bugs that may remain in the wood, as well as by removing any stray nails or metal fragments to protect equipment from damage.

“BEING SUSTAINABLE MEANS NOT ONLY UTILIZING ENVIRONMENTALLY AND SOCIALLY RESPONSIBLE MATERIALS, BUT ALSO PROVIDING A LIVING WAGE TO YOUR EMPLOYEES, HEALTH CARE OPPORTUNITIES, TIME OFF AND A SAFE AND ENGAGING WORK ENVIRONMENT.”

From obtaining resources to finishing the furniture pieces, The Old Wood Co. ensures production is environmentally-friendly and socially-responsible every step of the way. Along with company-wide recycling efforts, health-conscious finishing methods, and ethical business practices, the Old Wood Co. also focuses on providing quality pieces to its clients. “The company strives to give customers the quality and service they expect and deserve,” Green said. Where most people see an abandoned building or a battered piece of wood, Green sees a piece of art waiting to come alive, a distinct masterpiece, another satisfied customer, an upside.

West World There is something to be said for being a little wild—for letting your imagination take the reigns, for letting your crazy true colors show.

Western style is all about authenticity, from the fabrics to the colors.

Suede, fringe and denim paired with maroon, tan and white ushers in simplicity but doesn’t sacrifice detail. Whether you have one rosegold leather jacket you wear all the time or you refuse to take off your favorite pair of ripped jeans, you have an individual personality that no one else has and it deserves to be shown. Don’t be afraid to stand out—the skies may be grey now, but there’s always a little bit of sunshine just waiting to seep in through the cracks.

Written by Cassandra Cassidy Photographed by Sabah Kadir, Addy Liu, Sean T. Bailey and Gabrielle Vera Modeled Brooke Smaltz, Juhi Patel, Kat Tan, Renata D’Agrella, Nic Byron and Tia Hairston

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CHEERS to REIMS 45 MINUTES FROM PARIS, THIS CHARMING CITY IS A PERFECT WEEKEND TRIP– OH LA LA!

By Piper Anderson Nestled within the rolling green hills of the champagne region of France, the city of Reims is both stylish and welcoming. Rebuilt after World War I in the art deco style of the 1920s, the spirit of bubbly infuses this charismatic city with a fizzy feeling of fun.

If you look closely, champagne is everywhere: from the famous biscuits roses – pink cookies you plop in champagne – to the flute-like designs seen on every tram. There is no better place to pour a sparkling glass, breathe in the scent of fermentation and get lost in golden effervescence.

CHIC: WHERE TO BE CLASSY Become a champagne connoisseur by touring the chalk cellars of one of the dozen big-name champagne houses in Reims.

However, if you want a more personal experience, tour one of many smaller houses along the countryside champagne routes.

Yves Couvreur in charming Rilly-la-Montagne (a seven-minute train ride from Reims) is absolutely lovely; the tasting includes countless glasses and, if you’re lucky, lunch and conversation with the friendly owner.

VOIR: WHAT TO SEE The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Reims soars above the city. As the coronation site of French kings for a thousand years, nothing will prepare you for the first breathtaking glimpse of this behemoth, with its delicate arches, bursting stained-glass roses and intricately carved angels. Stop at the classically French Terroir des Rois behind the cathedral to stock up on champagne, preserves and postcards, and then visit the hauntingly beautiful Basilique St-Rémi. Next door to this 11th century church is the Musée Saint-Rémi, filled with Gallo-Roman archaeological finds.

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LES COURSES: WHERE TO SHOP Visit the newly restored les Halles Boulingrin for a classic French market experience: stalls drip with colorful fruits and vegetables, fresh oysters, traditional French sausages and a fragrant assortment of cheeses perfect for picnicking in Parc Léo Lagrange. For all your wardrobe needs, the fashion scene in Reims is infused with impeccable French style – beautiful neutrals, simple pieces and elegant cuts. Browse the mixture of well-known brands and cute boutiques along rue de Vesle and le cours Jean-Baptiste-Langlet for all your sartorial needs – and don’t forget to peruse the glamorous Galeries Lafayette.

MANGER: WHERE TO EAT For a traditional brasserie experience, go to Brasserie du Boulingrin, a charming and well-loved restaurant with art-nouveau flair. It’s easy on the budget too – for 21 euros ($25) you can get an entrée, plat and du vin of your choice! For a more modern experience, check out Le Gaulois on the busy pedestrian Place Drouet-d’Erlon, or the colorful and sunny Lou Creative Food for organic and vegetarian options! Finally, make sure to stop by one of Reims’ many boulangeries to buy a fresh baguette.

BOIRE: WHERE TO DRINK Your heart will melt over the mouthwatering desserts in Waïda et Fils, a charming tearoom with a striped awning and glowing interior. Check out Oma Coffee for a sweet coffee-shop vibe, or Le Cabasson for a quirky and cozy atmosphere filled with worn board games, stacks of books and chintzy but charming décor.

Also, the ritzy Café du Palais is a perfect place to sip champagne surrounded by exquisite art deco style.

FAIRE LA FÊTE: WHERE TO PARTY A bit of a sleepy city, Reims nevertheless has the popping Ernest Hemingway bar. Located on lively pedestrian walkway Place Drouet-d’Erlon, Hemingway is a vibrant spot that’s a hit among university students. Next door is the equally popular La Bodega – when the weather is fair, tipsy young people spill out onto the warmly lit cobblestone streets, drinking and laughing and dancing.

DES CONSEILS: EXTRA TIPS France is known for its l’art de vivre – the French take their time and savor the finer things in life. Embrace French culture while in Reims by lingering for hours at an outdoor café and watching the world go by. Fair warning: since Reims isn’t Paris, a bit of basic French is necessary if you visit here – bonjour and merci go a long way! The most important phrase you’ll need is je voudrais (pronounced “jeuh voo-dray”) which means “I would like” – as in, je voudrais un croissant. Et voila!

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Undefinable, free and taking on itself.

By Hannah Lee Photos courtesy of Hannah Lee

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After living in New York City for a summer, I used to believe there was no other place I would rather be. The flashing lights, the endless opportunities and the millions of people who filled the spaces in what could never be a boring day.

Then I lived in Berlin.

On a Saturday afternoon, I walk out of Gesundbrunnen Station toward Gleimstraße, a street in north Berlin. I turn onto Gleimstraße, and the street is suddenly congested with people and an electro bass beat that pulls you into a never-ending trance. I smile.

No, I glow. It is a protest. But not your typical Berliner protest. It is a protest for love - der Zug der Liebe (the train of love).

What you should know before I talk about this protest is that a protest in Berlin is the same as regularly taking your morning vitamins; the day never starts without a protest.

Der Zug der Liebe, however, was not like any other protest. Caravan-like cars with humansized speakers blasted music down the streets as the

participants trailed behind and danced through the archaic, pastel-painted buildings. People above in their apartments watched and cheered us from their windows. People below on the streets climbed signs and buildings, drank beer and shouted to each other in encouragement.

No one was yelling, or arguing, or having some sort of complicated discussion on a law that does some sort of political job for some sort of undermined group. It just was. And, it was beautiful.

My French friend, Syrine Lebrun, and I strutted and skipped down the closed-off streets with thousands of strangers who quickly felt like friends.

We hopped from car to car – each representing its own society: the homosexuals, the immigrants, the gangs, the clubs, everyone. We wanted to feel, understand and connect with the vibes of the diverse heads that bobbed around us.

“It’s like a free city,” Lebrun said. “You can be who you want to be, do what you want to do and nobody will judge you compared with Paris or

Lausanne (a French-speaking region of Switzerland) where I study.”

“There were all types of persons,” Lebrun said. “There was a guy I took a picture with in a strange outfit that barely covered his body.”

This guy, who Lebrun will forever have a polaroid with, wore a black jockstrap, black boots and nothing else. He represented HYDRA, the sex workers who want to be treated like others with so-called “normal” professions.

The protest is not only representative of all of Berlin’s wild and unexplored cultural hubs, but it is also a collective of individual people who feel free to be themselves, in whatever form that manifests.

When I arrived in Berlin, I was immediately intimidated because women dressed more trendy in comparison to those at the UNC-Chapel Hill campus.

I saw girls strolling the streets in leather ankle boots with colorful, patterned socks and baggy, high-waisted

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1/4. Hannah and friends explore Teufelsber, the former U.S. spy station from the Cold War. 2. Hannah and friend, Ethan Schmitz, rent a row boat at Schlachtensee, a lake in southwest Berlin. 3. The Berlin Dom - the largest church in the city. 5.

Hannah and German friends, Lana Wagner (left) and Lara Holland (right), standing in front of the Brandenburger Tor, a symbol of Berlin and German division during the Cold War.

jeans with tights underneath. It was a culture of style that appeared exotic to me, but soon made sense.

I was the black sheep sitting on the bench at the U-Bahn station (the Berlin transit) during cold spring evenings. A middle aged-man with a light grey beard spied me in my ripped jeans and gave me a peculiar look, almost like he was laughing.

“Bist du nicht kalt?” he said. “Wo sind deine Strumpfhosen?”

Are you not cold? Where are your tights?

I realized at that moment that it was not only stylish to wear tights under ripped jeans, but it was also logical. If Berliners were forced to wear layers in March and April, then why not find a fun way to do it, right?

Like the protest, Berlin style continues to surprise and inspire every corner of the world. It makes you want to dress up, too. For the first time in years, I did not find myself wearing the typical Nike

running shorts and oversized T-shirt to class. I urged myself to wear wild sweaters with fuzzy pink sleeves or black jumpsuits layered with silk shirts.

One of my closest friends and a fellow journalist from South Korea, Jinee Park, felt inspired to write about German fashion. Similar to Lebrun, she found herself repeatedly describing the style as “free.”

“When I was in Korea, Korea is a kind of conservative country. I cannot show my body,” Park said. “It’s culturally forbidden to show, especially for women, like some kind of sexy clothes, so I have to hide all of my body. After I came to Berlin, I feel more free about what I wear – like even Berliners get naked on the beach sometimes.”

In my experience, the grungy, alternative vibe of Berlin is not like the posh, sophisticated style of New York City. And, unlike New York City, Berlin is a place that thrives with its flaws. After World War II, Berlin could have let itself deteriorate, but instead, it rebuilt from the ground up. It has left the rubble, like the Gedächtniskirche (the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial

Church) and the Berliner Mauer (the Berlin Wall), with its broken corners, as a reminder of that for which it stands.

“Berlin has changed my idea on what ‘fashionable’ is,” Park said. “It’s different from other cities I’ve been to, like New York or Paris, where the style is more focused on being fancy or premium.

Berlin style is not about expensive brands.”

Berlin is about recreating itself.

After 75 years, through its clothes, buildings and essential being, Berlin is trying to find itself again.

People can access different lifestyles by dressing themselves into another person or attending an event that is completely beyond their character.

Berghain, Berlin’s most famous nightclub, is one of those places you find yourself trying to live out this ideal German character. I was one of those people who found themselves on a Saturday night waiting outside the white, run-down, abandoned

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17,000 participants dance through the streets for the protest “Der Zug Der Liebe”.

“BERLIN IS ABOUT RECREATING ITSELF” building. I covered myself in all black with as little make-up as I could bear.

Before the doors even opened, long dark shadows were channeling their way outside the mouth of the building – silence; the black silhouette of every figure was facing forward, too scared to speak or too scared to lose the chance of experiencing the cavernous dance floor inside.

The silence represented how much clubbers were willing to sacrifice their time and conversation to get inside. Because if you did talk, the bouncers might recognize your accent or pick up on a conversation that might disfavor you. The chance to participate in the German club culture is something many feel obligated to do when they visit Berlin.

Unfortunately, I found myself standing next to a chatty Indian-American, who was either too oblivious or too nervous to notice the bouncer preying up and down the line.

We did not get in. Instead, we got a pointed finger to the street. My other American friend, Ethan Schmitz, got a pointed finger to the door.

“It was huge and felt like it had an anything-goes type of atmosphere,” Schmitz said.

“What I remember most was how you could feel the bass in your chest.”

As a female from the United States, when it comes to parties, clubs, or bars, girls have it easy.

Berlin, no, it is not that way. It is how you present yourself. It is not only about your appearance but also your confidence. It is about composure in the most un-composed setting.

Berghain easily has the most difficult club entry in Berlin. However, once you get a handle on yourself as a person along with the German culture, passage into club life is easy.

“In the U.S., I feel like it’s a status thing and you need to show off (or) look nice to get in,” Schmitz said. “In Berlin, you just kind of go because you like the music and don’t need to try too hard to get in most places.”

The city is more about appearance.

Whether you have the normalized goth guy over here or the Zara inspired girl over there, Berlin is a place

where all its people come together. Whether they are doing yoga in Mauerpark, or busting their fists in the air at a club or unknowingly finding themselves at the same table in a beer garden, Berliners accept the change, fluctuation, otherness that the city brings into their everyday lives.

The city has found something it did not expect: that it is not defined by its wealth or industry, but rather by its own complexity and contradictions.

In New York, the people are defined by their status, perfection and comparison to others. In Berlin, well, it is more than that. It maintains a sense of self; it continues to engage in a process of selfdescription.

“I never really felt uncomfortable,” Schmitz said. “I feel like people in Berlin don’t really care who you are or what you’re doing…what makes it different from other cities is that it’s a place of multiculturalism.”

The

For

Beauty

FILM PHOTOGRAPHY is currently

experiencing an exciting renaissance. With this explosive growth comes the ever-present question, “why?� Why do people shoot film when digital images are practically infinite and free?

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gotten of Film

Written and photographed by Andre Domingues Illustrated by Connie Jen

WHY WAIT to see your images when you could have instant gratification?

Why mess with chemicals in the darkroom? Why not use filters in phone editing apps?

It involves chemistry. It involved parts of the process that have to be done in complete darkness. It can be intimidating, complicated and seemingly much more difficult than digital photography. However, the upside is that you take complete control of the creative process - you choose your film stock, you mix your own darkroom chemicals and you decide how your final product will look.

Left: Chimney

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Left: Lottery tickets Right: Se vende ceviche

Above: Cornered Right: Not interested

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Left: Artisanal Right: Crossroads

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Developing Film at Home An illustrated walkthrough

1 3

2

5 6 What you’ll need: 1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Developing tank Developer Stop bath Fixer Reel Film Timer

7

4

1. To start, wrap the film around the film reel according to its natural curves.

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Once you’ve reached the end of the roll, load the reel back into the developing tank and make sure the lid is shut tight.

2. Give the film a pre-wash water bath by filling the tank with room temperature sink water and agitating it for a couple seconds.

3. Pour in developer to fill the tank and agitate the tank for ten seconds every minute for ten minutes. This time can vary depending on the type of film.

4. After ten minutes, dump out the developer and pour in the stop bath. Agitate the tank for 15-20 seconds.

Agitating the tank in a circular, rolling motion.

5. After dumping the stop bath, fill the tank with fixer, and agitate continuously for 30 seconds. Pour the fixer out, and start to rinse the film under running water.

6. After rinsing, remove the film from the reel and hang the film in a dust-free spot to dry.

You’ve finished developing your film now!

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As bombs went off and machine guns fired in the distance, Branden Harvey stood on top of the military outpost, his heart breaking with each explosion. The border between Israel and Syria provided him safety throughout his visit in Israel, but he could not avoid the pain he felt and the scar it would leave on his life.

Moments like this motivate humanitarian storyteller and 24-yearold photographer Branden Harvey. He has listened to cries of widowed women, spoken with HIV patients, and heard stories of life after war. But he does not just listen.

He travels the world, often visiting third world countries, to expose the livelihood of people struck by war, injustice, and disease. He captures the emotion behind each person’s story to cultivate empathy in his audience and spark public action in helping those who need it.

Harvey was studying business, marketing, and advertising at Portland State University when a number of opportunities to travel the world opened up to him. His frequent downtown visits connected him with community members who provided him with creative contacts and photography endeavors. Harvey used photography to educate the public on the global issues at hand but struggled to fully absorb the impact himself. “The immediate action is to get rid of that feeling - letting it flow over you,” Harvey said. “I think I naturally did that.” It took a while for Harvey to even recall some of what he had seen. He pushed away the pain inflicted, almost removing the memories completely, until he was finally able to process them.

As he continues pursuing photography and sees more of the world,

Harvey works to escape the fear of despair - to let the stories and experiences encapsulate him. He makes an effort to empathize on a deeper level. He has the emotional connection and the story, but Harvey needs more.

He strives to make a change - to expose the public to the good in the world and the people making a positive impact. It is the only way to shroud the overwhelming hurt.

Around the world, people are surrounded by news covering the negative events in today’s society - hate crimes, terrorist attacks, third world hunger. Harvey’s mission lies in telling the other side of things, giving people hope amidst the despair.

Easier said than done, right?

Harvey stood overlooking the Syrian border, taking in the beauty of the fields before him. What was beautiful and serene minutes before had turned into something incomprehensible - exploding bombs and machine gun fire. He could not see how the conflict could be resolved, or how anyone could help the situation. “[The trip to Israel] was one of those things where I don’t have a sense of perspective enough yet to see the silver lining,” Harvey said.

Harvey’s path to gaining a global perspective and sharing it with the world began at 16 years old when Harvey was first asked to work on a professional project - a fashion look book. Not yet a professional photographer, he remembers the terror that came over him when he received the call. He said no and immediately hung up, thinking to himself, “That’s right. I told them.”But wait - that was his passion. He wanted to be a photographer. He wanted to share unknown stories with the world. He wanted to motivate the public to take

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action against injustices. “It’s stupid that anyone hired me that early, but I’m honored by it,” Harvey said.

He spent the next month and a half studying photography, contacting admired photographers, and taking photos every day to achieve his desired level of expertise. He analyzed professional photographs, like his first favorite photographer Pete Souza, and even looked for new technique and lighting ideas to use as inspiration for his own masterpieces.

His drive, along with his “ability to be flexible, eat bad food, and travel” caught the eyes of non-profit organizations and socially conscious brands, such as Disney, UNICEF and Square, allowing him to make his dream a reality.

For Harvey it was, and still is, much more than a job. “I wanted to use my unique talent and passion to affect more than just my bank account,” he said.

Eight years later, Harvey is successfully using his platform to raise awareness and understanding for the conflicts that engulf the developing world. What began as a social media page soon transformed into a company with a following that encompasses more than 250,000 people a day.

With his company called Good Good Good, it would be easy to think he’s escaping from the bad, but that’s not the mission of his company. This company - and its corresponding newspaper, the Goodnewspaper - does not simply highlight all the good in the world. It extends much further to the fight against hate, fear and injustice in the world.

“I’ve been all around the world – seen the worst of the worst – and seen people affected by horrible things,” Harvey said. “It’s not healthy, helpful or good to unplug from those things.”

His focus lies in familiarizing the public with heartbreaking events occurring around the world, but he does not stop there. While there is heart-

break in the stories, Harvey does not believe that is all there is to them.

Hope. The reason he continually strives for a solution. “I feel like a lot of the stuff I’ve seen, I haven’t been able to see the hopeful side of things yet,” Harvey said, “like in Syria.”

But some trips give him hope even in the most devastating situations. A few years ago, Harvey traveled to Uganda to spend two to three weeks in some of the villages to learn the locals’ stories and document the families.

Ten years before Harvey arrived, the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA), led by Joseph Kony, had burnt down several villages. In doing so, he and his army killed the men, raped the women, and took children over the age of three or four to train as soldiers.

When Harvey arrived to the scene a decade later, the villages were populated by traumatized women, few men, and no children above the age of 13. Harvey listened to each of the villager’s stories of how they evaded death and continued to live on.

While their stories were unfathomable, Harvey felt as though their voices needed to be heard. He found it powerful that people who 10 years earlier stood in smoldering villages with nothing are now working hard to successfully rebuild their lives and communities.

The women in the villages created a way to counsel one another that Harvey calls “Me Too Groups...They were able to say, ‘this is what I struggle with, and this is the pain I feel in my heart,’” Harvey said. Instead of simply listening, the other women were able to empathize and say “Me too.” The women told Harvey that by exchanging stories with one another, they could begin to heal by knowing that they were not alone. They had all experienced the same trauma, but it was not until they shared their stories that they realized they were not alone.

As the women spoke, Harvey could see the hurt in their eyes, but

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he could also see something else. He saw a sense of hope, rooted in the knowledge that they were supported and understood. The hope in their eyes was accompanied by something even more heartwarming – a smile. They smiled as they spoke because they knew they had overcome their harrowing experiences.“That smile is so much more genuine than a smile that has never experienced bad news in life,” Harvey said. “That [realness is] what we crave and what fills our soul.”

With more than 1,000 portraits, he documented these contagious smiles as they spread across the village building a sense of community and hope. These women were no longer alone. Not only did they have each other, but they also had the support of Beauty for Ashes Uganda.Beauty for Ashes Uganda does not consider itself an organization, but rather “an act of love gone awry in the grand adventure of loving the poor, the hungry and the oppressed in this world.”

Harvey witnessed this love as he worked with the organization to give women business advice and investments to support the village. The name and beauty of the group captivated Harvey. “The name Beauty for Ashes is just gorgeous, because there were literal ashes, and now beauty is coming from it,” Harvey said. Something strong and beautiful formed from what little they had left.

Harvey focuses not only on the situation at hand, but on the people encourage public action and work to create a difference. “You just have to show a lot of [sensitivity],” Harvey said.

He has seen photographers and storytellers inadvertently take advantage of people by overemphasizing the poverty and downplaying the positivity and hope for the future - “poverty porn.” “[Most] people really do want depth. They don’t want to escape,” Harvey said.

“And we take the people who do want to escape and give them something they actually crave.”

In his podcast Sounds Good, Harvey reaches out to other optimists and world-changers to showcase their stories. The podcast covers topics including mental health, social justice, and how people use their influence for good. On occasion, the guest speakers come from a place of pain and as a result, create something beautiful. One such person is Hannah Brencher.

Brencher founded The World Needs More Love Letters, a global organization that was born from a simple task she learned from her mother – writing love letters. Brencher moved to New York City for

a voluntary year of service immediately after graduating from Assumption College in 2010. She wanted improve people’s lives through her work but thought she had to work in the human rights field in order to do so. She made $25 a week and lived in the Bronx. She was the New York representative for a non-governmental organization at the United Nations, but she did not feel the sense of hope or fulfillment she had anticipated. Rather, she was plagued with sadness in seeing hunger, human trafficking, and poverty on a global scale. She struggled with what was later diagnosed as depression, something no one had talked to her about before.

To cope, she began doing something very familiar to her -writing love letters. She left them around New York City for strangers to find, hoping it would help at least one person get through a difficult situation.“I blogged about those letters and the days when they were necessary,” Brencher said, “and I posed a kind of crazy promise to the Internet; if you asked me for a handwritten letter, I would write you one. No questions asked.”

What began as a young woman with depression leaving

letters of positivity for strangers in New York City turned into over 250,000 letters written and delivered to 70 countries in just six years.

Brencher anticipated writing about 10 or 20 letters, but instead spent the next nine months of her life writing around 400 of them. She didn’t have the desire to make it something bigger, but the people surrounding her reminded her of the impact she had on struggling strangers and the inspiration she could provide if she wrote the letters on a larger scale.

The unanticipated and organic growth of The World Needs More Love Letters was similar to that of Good Good Good. Harvey was a social media enthusiast with a camera, a talent, and a passion, but he never anticipated that those things would come together to create the success and societal role he has today. “I knew I was going to do something weird,” he said, originally thinking he would become a writer.

Following his high school graduation, Harvey moved to Portland, Oregon – a city he romanticized for its unique and quirky vibes. While in college, he connected with the creative community and crafted an unconventional student experience allowing for many photography opportunities.

Harvey sat in the back row during his classes, learning and listening to his professors while simultaneously emailing clients, preparing for photoshoots, and planning his next trip. He recalls working with brands that his professors idolized during lectures.

Without guidance from others - and of course, his quirky personality - Harvey would not be where he is today.Photographer Laura Lawson Visconti is one of the main reasons Harvey became interested in photography. Their meeting was a pivotal moment in Harvey’s life and career. He had commented on one of her Instagram posts saying that he was in Seattle and wanted to meet. Following the conversation that comment sparked, they collaborated many times, volunteering together at social impact conferences, spontaneously traveling to New York, and working a number of positivity initiatives together.

Photography requires a keen eye. Visconti captures beautiful photographs every day, despite Retinitis Pigmentosa, a rare and incurable degenerative eye condition, working against her. While it is a devastating disease for someone reliant on visual communication, Visconti found that her condition was a catalyst for positivity in her life. “We all deal with hardships; what defines us is what we do with those hardships,” Visconti said. “I make the choice every single day to not allow my diagnosis to define me for the worse, but instead propel me towards a brighter future than I could ever have imagined.”

And she is just getting started. In 2016, Harvey invited Visconti to be featured on his podcast. He wanted to share with others her story of overcoming this obstacle that directly interfered with her passion and career. “She’s one of the reasons I am where I am today,” he said, “and I will forever be thankful for her.”

Even today, Harvey still pulls inspiration from old friends.

As a high school student, his mentors not only taught him the technical elements of photography but also how to use it to make an impact on people’s lives. “What are my next steps? What are our next steps?”

Harvey asked. “Honestly, I have no idea yet. But I know I’m done sitting around like this isn’t happening. Who’s with me?”

UNLEA

Written by Cassandra Cassidy Photographed by Alexis Fairbanks, Elise Holsonback, Gabrielle Vera and Sabah Kadir Modeled Maire Amlicke, Sophia Purut, Andrew Manuel, Yi Ge, Kenny Selmon, Jada Richardson, Taylor Moffitt and Danica Dy

ASHED

It’s no wonder that humans spend so much time imagining, daydreaming and wondering. Reality is exhausting. There’s always something you “should” be doing, or someone telling you to “get a grip.” There’s a normal, and you’re expected to follow it.

We decided to erase all signs of monotony and bring life to the everyday activities you dread so much. The phone calls, the early mornings, the dates, the messy hair—it can be boring, or it can be spectacular. It’s our hope that these surreal snapshots will remind you of that. Whether you’re a boss-woman wearing a sequined tank top or a dog-walker in fluffy pink heels, there’s an upside to every seemingly boring thing you do.

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Applejack

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POP!

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Date Nite

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Shade

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MARS

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lion

By Addis Olive

Garth Davis’ most recent film is as visually appealing as it is heart-wrenching

G

arth Davis, an Australian native and film, television and commercial director, provokes emotion from his audience like no other.

Known for his mystery drama series, “Top of the Lake,” Davis knows how to relay the emotion of empathy and convey the reality of struggle.

Released in 2016, “Lion” transforms Saroo Brierley’s autobiography, “A Long Way Home”, into a visual masterpiece. Dev Patel, star of “Slumdog Millionaire”, plays older Saroo and award-winning actress Nicole Kidman plays Saroo’s adoptive mother. The movie begins with young Saroo in a ditch surronded by gold butterflies in a small village of India.

Davis is known for landscape scenes and, particularly, for switching from intimate scenes to landscapes. He also switches from scenes of commotion with bright colors to quiet scenes with cool tones. The switch from chaotic noise to calm silence gives the film a contrast that is both appalling and captivating.

The plot continues as Guddu, Saroo’s older brother, leaves Saroo to sleep at a train station while he looks for work. The last thing Saroo says to Guddu is, “just bring back a 100 jalebis.” Jalebis are little sweets, popular in parts of Asia and Africa. Saroo then wakes up, wanders onto a train looking for his brother and gets trapped; the train ends up in West Bengal, almost 1000 miles from his home. As the film follows Saroo’s travels, you see his struggles— lost without knowing Bengali language, fear in encountering suspicious people and a feeling of the unknown. Eventually, he ends up in an orphanage and a family in Australia adopts him.

After ignoring his past in India for twenty years,

he sees jalebis that trigger childhood memories and spark his interest in finding his biological family in India. Saroo isolates himself from his loved ones and focuses on finding his birthplace using Google Earth.

The film ends in an emotional scene where Saroo reconnects with his biological mother and sister and calls his home in Australia to say he found answers. Davis includes the actual footage of Saroo, his biological mother, and adoptive mother meeting for the first time in real life—a daring move, but one that pays off.

The emotional depth of this scene could not be recreated by any actors or actresses.

In an interview, Davis said, “I realized that there was such a sense of love in this family that I believe that the miracles were born from that place. I just found that a very exciting thing to explore as a filmmaker.” Though Saroo struggles with his origins, an inherent familial bond pushes him to find his first home.

Now on Netflix, “Lion” is for anyone committed to an emotional experience and prepared to read subtitles. After I saw “Lion” in theatres, I was searching study abroad experiences in India to help out the children in need, and I called my parents to tell them how much I appreciate them. The movie shows a point-of-view to which most common people are not exposed. Davis immersed himself in Saroo’s family, birth village and Australian roots to understand how to create this film authentically. Saroo’s story is one of vulnerability, raw emotion and the power of family, whether you choose that family or it chooses you. Davis, miraculously and with great taste, brings this story to the screen.

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Cultural Appropriation

VS

VS Cultural Appreciation

Written by Ruth Samuel Illustration by Connie Jin With the excitement of every fashion week comes some apprehension. I frequently find myself bracing for impact, wondering which show of the season is going to be a hot mess.

From the Marc Jacobs dreadlocks debacle and Gucci versus Dapper Dan to Stella McCartney’s oh-so creative use of ankara and Versace’s questionable “Native American tribute,” cultural appropriation is rampant today in the fashion industry.

Fashion is art, and art is culture, but there is a line between the two that should not be crossed.

Cultural appropriation is defined as members of one culture taking or seizing various aspects of a culture of which they are not members. While this seems like a minor issue, the act of cultural appropriation reinforces the false notion that one can selectively choose when they want to cling to a certain ethnic group. Most importantly, it trivializes the significance of the culture being appropriated and is disrespectful to those who belong to it.

I distinctly remember watching New York Fashion Week last year during my 6th period study hall and nearly choking on my lunch when I saw multiple white models walking down the runway in dreadlocks—a hairstyle that numerous members of the Black community have unduly been persecuted for wearing.

When asked about this issue, Jacobs said, “I don’t see colour or race - I see people.” In

the famous words of comedian Trevor Noah, “Oh, you don’t see color? Interesting...what do you do at a traffic light?”

Jacobs intended to say that he does not discriminate, but historically, we have seen the implications that color and race have on how we perceive people, specifically those who belong to marginalized groups.

When it comes to black hair, there is a negative stigma surronding dreadlocks, braids and cornrows. There is an underlying idea in society that these styles are a sign of dirtiness, poverty or “being ghetto.” In 2015, Giuliana Rancic, of the critically acclaimed TV show Fashion Police, said that Zendaya Coleman’s dreadlocks on the red carpet “[smelled] like patchouli oil or weed.”

In fact, these are protective styles that work to nourish hair.

Cultural appropriation extends far beyond the catwalk and seeps into our daily lives. In September of 2016, a U.S. court in the 11th circuit ruled that businesses have the right to bar applicants with dreadlocks from being hired.

This past May, The Huffington Post covered a story where two young black sisters in Massachusetts were suspended from school and extracurricular events because they wore braids. Suddenly, those same braids became “trendy” when Kylie Jenner wore them. We live in an era in which everyone wants to have big lips, darker skin and a fuller figure, while

we shame young black girls for the same qualities.

On college campuses, “Mexican-themed” parties are thrown, where people flaunt sombreros and stereotypical mariachi mustaches, mocking the nuances of Hispanic culture. Indian girls are persistently shamed for unveiling the food they bring from home during lunchtime, but when Coachella comes around, their classmates can be seen donning a bindi.

There is a way to appreciate the customs, traditions and garments of a particular culture without the disrespect. The difference between cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation is the acquisition versus the exchange.

With appropriation, there is assumed possession of a culture—various elements are commercialized for the purpose of consumerism, while other elements that deal with the history and struggle of that culture are ignored.

There is a mutualistic relationship of paying homage to a culture while still learning about and honoring its origins. Cultural appreciation entails forming genuine connections with people from different cultures.

Individuals should be vigilant in regards to their reasoning behind wearing significant pieces of clothing. While it is completely acceptable, and even encouraged, to find beauty in different cultures, it is too often at the expense of ignoring systemic discrimination against minority cultures.

84 Caughtour ourEye Eye 84||CC||Caught

TACKLING THE DEFAMATION OF PLANNED PARENTHOOD

BY SOPHIA WILHELM

Gerri Santoro, a victim of domestic violence, left her husband in 1963 and got pregnant by a married man named Clyde Dixon. She was more than six months pregnant when she learned that her husband was coming to visit and see their children. She feared his reaction--and her life. She and Dixon checked into a motel, where they attempted to perform a self-induced abortion with surgical instruments and a medical textbook. After Santoro began to hemorrhage, Dixon left, and a maid found her body the next morning.

Before 1973’s Roe v. Wade ruling, about 1.2 million illegal abortions were performed each year in the U.S. Since then, the topic of legal abortions has sparked an intense, heated debate, especially when people hear the words “Planned Parenthood.”

Planned Parenthood has nine health care centers throughout North Carolina, including one in Chapel Hill, that collectively receive about 25,000 patients each year.

They offer a wide range of services for both men and women, including HIV and STD testing, contraceptives, hormone therapy for transgender patients, cancer screenings, and medical and surgical abortions.

“Planned Parenthood is somewhere that you can go. Our doors are open to everyone, and you know that you’ll be cared for compassionately, nonjudgmentally, and affordably,” said Sarah Eldred, spokesperson for the Chapel Hill location.

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DEBUNKING THE COMMON MISCONCEPTION

Planned Parenthood’s largest service is abortion – FALSE

According to Planned Parenthood’s 2014 annual report, abortion services accounted for only three percent of their total services, with contraception at 31 percent, and STI/STD testing and treatment at 45 percent. Critics claim when the facility calculated the three percent statistic, they shouldn’t have weighed in services such as giving out condoms or having a routine check up for birth control. They feel accounting for these minor services only serves to distort the proportions, giving the impression that abortions are less common.

Also, because a person can receive multiple services, dividing the number of abortions by the organization’s 2.57 million patients leaves an estimated 12 percent of Planned Parenthood’s patients getting an abortion, with the assumption that a woman didn’t receive more than one abortion.

Federal tax dollars are being put towards abortion services – FALSE

Planned Parenthood, like all health care providers, receives a reimbursement from Medicaid, the government-funded health insurance program that supports people with low income. It also receives funds through Title X, a federal grant program that supports family planning health care for those who are low-income, underinsured or uninsured.

Since 1976, the Hyde Amendment has forbidden the use of federal dollars to pay for abortion services, except in cases of incest or rape, or to save the mother’s life. Planned Parenthood uses money from private donors, foundations and fees to pay for their abortion services.

When talking about defunding the organization, Eldred said that would mean limiting access for patients.

“It’s not that we get less money,” she said. “It’s that we’re not able to provide services and then be reimbursed, and when we’re talking about services, we’re saying family planning services, at a reduced cost for those who need it.”

Those who support Planned Parenthood and those who don’t

About one in five women in the U.S. has visited a Planned Parenthood health center at least once.

Alina Sichevaya, a sophomore at UNC, said no one should have to choose between endangering themselves and taking on a responsibility they might not be ready to handle.

“I guess I just don’t want to be the kind of person that would force parenthood on someone who wasn’t ready for it, on someone who doesn’t feel capable of it, [or] on someone who may never want it, because that’s not fair to either the parent or the child,” Sichevaya said.

She mentioned that Planned Parenthood is important for students because college is where they feel independent for the first time, and many have come from families where reproductive health systems were discussed with shame. Sichevaya added that Planned Parenthood’s confidentiality and affordability is especially critical for young people, so they can have access to these services and feel safe doing so.

“I know at least four different people of varying backgrounds who simply cannot afford birth control without Planned Parenthood, and they cannot afford basic things like pelvic exams without Planned Parenthood,” she said.

Not everyone feels this way, though. Since Donald Trump took office earlier this year, many people have been eager for him to defund Planned Parenthood and repeal the Affordable Care Act.

Tami Fitzgerald, executive director of the NC Values Coalition, said its members believe Planned Parenthood is a business that specializes in killing unborn children.

“There isn’t any taxpayer funding for pro-life groups from the government, so there shouldn’t be any taxpayer funding, especially for a group that is interested in killing unborn babies,” she said.

Many religious individuals believe God made man and woman in his image.

“I hold a very deep belief that human beings begin at conception and that they are unique, that each human being is a unique child of God, made [in the] image of God and that is incumbent on me as a believer in God to do all I can to protect each human being,” Kenneth Reeb, a St. Thomas More parishioner said.

Reeb said having a baby is one of the most spiritually profound and unique experiences a woman has in her life, and that there are a number of places that help pregnant women find solutions aside from abortion.

“There’s one here just around the corner here in Chapel Hill. It’s called PSS, Pregnancy Support Services, sponsored by a number of churches in the area, and they counsel women,” Reeb said. “They will do a number of things to support the women and their choice, financially and emotionally, and in other ways, to help them carry the baby to term.”

The future seems uncertain for Planned Parenthood’s over 600 health centers across the nation. For now, the Chapel Hill location welcomes students and community members who choose to visit.

As Margaret Sanger, one of the founders of Planned Parenthood, said, “No woman can call herself free who does not control her own body.”

86 | C | Connect

MIXED RACE IN AMERICA

By Hannah Lee

The memory still haunts Josh Jiang— the routine of it all, the simplicity, the sobbing.

Every Sunday afternoon like clockwork, he’d attend Chinese School, and every Sunday afternoon, like clockwork, he’d endure the humiliation.

“Alright everyone,” the teacher said.

“Have a conversation with your partner. Talk about what you did today.”

Only, Josh couldn’t. Such an easy request from his teacher, and yet, he couldn’t speak a lick of Chinese. Just because he looked like he fit in didn’t mean he did. The tears boiled over.

He felt like an outcast.

“It was interesting to be a challenge to a set of assumptions that have worked for the group of people for so long,” Jiang said.

Jiang, a junior at UNC-Chapel Hill, grew up in the Appalachian Mountains where he struggled to find his way through Southern white suburbia. Josh is a mixed-raced American. He is half white, half Chinese. He is also Jewish, which only conflated his internal identity crisis—one that is all too common in America.

According to the Pew Research Center, the number of mixed-race Americans is increasing at a rate three times faster than the population of the United States. In the 1970s, 1 per cent of all American children were of mixed race.

Now, that number has gone up to 10 per cent. The U.S. Census Bureau predicts that the number of multiracial Americans will be three times larger than it is now by 2060.

For the current UNC freshman class, 10 per cent of students reported being two or more races. For both 2015 and 2016, it was nine per cent of the incoming class. That roughly breaks down to roughly 8.5 per cent of all undergraduates, or around one in every 12 students.

“I always was just born understanding that I go to Sunday synagogue and I’m Jewish there,” Jiang said. “I go to Chinese school and speak Chinese and I’m Chinese there. But I never went to mixed-race club and got to say, ‘Oh yeah, you’re also both of these things, that’s like something completely different.’”

How does that one check on a census box manifest itself in real life? As America’s multiracial population grows, the intersection of races and cultures is often messy. That can lead to questions of belonging and worth — most importantly, doubts about the concept of identity altogether. ***

Ceremonial mounds of dirt and dust lined the narrow road from Jonah Lossiah’s

childhood home. Follow it for five minutes or so, whether or not you stop to read the authentic Cherokee signs, and you’ll eventually come to the tribal council house. It’s over a century old.

While that may seem drastically different from most people’s experiences, it was all Lossiah knew before moving four hours away to Chapel Hill for college. Here, he’s one of just eight per cent of undergraduates who identify as Native American— and he’s only half Cherokee.

“In general, I consider myself Native American because one, I grew up on the reservation, so that’s a big thing,” Lossiah said.

“The other thing is my other half is not white American in quintessential sense. My mom is not from Texas or Massachusetts. She’s from England.”

At the reservation, Lossiah did not worry about being different from anyone else.

When he came to UNC, he only knew four other Native American students. Rather than losing his identity or conforming, he latched onto it even stronger. His uniqueness on campus made him feel more compelled than ever to try and understand himself and the history of Native Americans. Whenever he returned home, he began reading books and camping out in the tribe’s library.

“Cultural identity is something that is lacking,” Lossiah said. “Not in too bad of a way, but

Connect | C | 87 it’s something that needs to be addressed for people of our age because it’s so easy just to be working and care so much about the day-to-day that you lose sight of what an identity is.

“It’s just part of a person — especially if you identify as Native American or African American — you have to know something about that culture in order to identify yourself fully.”

Lossiah’s take on the concept of identity is not the same as Jiang’s. In fact, they are almost opposite. While Lossiah’s experiences led him to dig deeper into his heritage, Jiang’s left him feeling uncomfortable with the expectations placed upon him. Identity is self-made—it is an individual assertion of who you are, not a group label. ***

Bottom: Jonah Lossiah

Above: Marisa Breathwaite First page: Josh Jiang

For fall break, UNC senior Marisa Breathwaite wanted only warm weather and to visit her friend in Sarasota, Florida. On Friday night, when they took to the streets of downtown, they hoped for a fun night aimlessly exploring bars and catching up. Instead, she found herself getting more bizare comments than drinks. People would ask, “What are you?” and “How do you get your hair like that?”

Breathwaite’s dark, tight coils sit above her shoulders. Almost every time she approached a bar, people made assumptive comments and invasive remarks. Her Palestinian friend, who Breathwaite says also looks racially ambiguous, had two strangers put their hands in her hair.

“It’s so interesting how people can put themselves in a position of authority in a sense,” Breathwaite said. “He was the authority on whether or not our curls were natural, and he didn’t know us, but he felt comfortable saying that.”

Breathwaite is half white, half black. She grew up in Moyock, North Carolina, where she spent the majority of her time with the white side of her family and attended a primarily white school. She found that her identity mirrored who she surrounded herself with.

“When I got to UNC, I wasn’t with the kids I grew up with who knew me and knew my family,” Breathwaite said. “When I got here, people made assumptions about me where I felt like I had to be in one group or another — like there were black things to do and there were white things to do.

“I was like, ‘Wow, I’ve never had to choose which one I want to be a part of,’ and I still sometimes don’t know what I am a part of,” she said.

Breathwaite migrates between different groups on campus, from Chi Omega to SWIRL (Students with Interracial Legacies) to the Carolina Center for the Study of the Middle East and Muslim Civilizations. Her ability to do this blurs her idea of belonging. She can move from one group to another on campus, but it’s still difficult for her to feel a true sense of belonging when people in an organization can’t understand or recognize the parts of herself that she deems most important.

Breathwaite is still trying to find her way. Her identity is becoming easier for her to navigate, but her everyday experiences make her hesitant to say she knows what belonging actually means. She tries not to scorn society for how mixed-race identity is portrayed because she’s still struggling to understand it herself.

These three students illustrate that the concept of identity is inherently flawed. Mixed-race people, in general, reinforce that idea because they don’t fit any mold, even if they want to. Instead, people of a mixed-race identity—Jiang, Lossiah and Breathwaite—are validation that identity is an individual decision and, at times, a struggle. There’s no way to label all people; everyone’s experiences are different.

Mixed-race identities get lost in society because they don’t fit the mold, but they can’t be forgotten. Jiang won’t forget crying in Chinese school, Lossiah won’t forget growing up on a Cherokee reservation and Breathwaite won’t forget the rude remarks.

88 | C | Coordinate Me

little miss

There’s something about rainy days—the gray, gloom and general dreariness—that makes getting out of bed harder than it normally is.

While dressing your best may be the last thing on your mind, nailing the perfect rainy day outfit is the easiest way to brighten your mood while staying dry.

Written by Chloe Williams Photographed by Elise Holsonback

Put on your favorite lived-in, super soft sweatshirt and dress it up. Pair it with a chic leather mini skirt and top it off with a polished jacket for a pop of color. Rain boots are an essential for obvious reasons, but you don’t have to sacrifice style for practicality. Take this Jeffrey Campbell pair of boots for example. Finding the weather-proofed version of your go-to ankle boots will make you feel fierce against the storm and the world.

Keep your beauty simple. Add a red lip to brighten your face, but let your hair and makeup look natural.

Surround yourself with cozy scents, like a perfume with notes of chai tea or a candle that smells like wood burning in a fireplace. Grab headphones, a good book, and take off on your day. Dreary? We don’t think so.

Candle photo courtesy bgvjpe/Flickr Creative Commons http://bit.ly/2j6U6QY

SUNSHINE

Candle photo courtesy bgvjpe/Flickr Creative Commons http://bit.ly/2j6U6QY

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