Journey Weaver
Issue 4 | August 2018
Capitals of Cold The Best Winter Wonderlands
A MEETING OF PASSIONS SCOTT DUNN & COUNTRY HOLIDAYS BECOME ONE
Latin America A Land of Volcanoes & Jungle Temples
Istria
Flavours of Land & Sea
ST PETERSBURG SHINES LUXURY SKI CHALETS TREKKING TAJIKISTAN
Issue 4 2018
Welcome to another issue of Journey Weaver, a Country Holidays magazine. The exciting topic for this issue is certainly Country Holidays becoming part of travel company Scott Dunn. Scott Dunn was founded as a ski travel company more than 30 years ago and remains a force in the luxury ski and chalet scene. The company operates over 20 luxury ski chalets in some of Europe’s most sought after alpine destinations and in this issue, you can read more about the evolution of both Scott Dunn and Country Holidays, two dynamic travel companies that actually have very similar origin stories. I look forward to integrating our philosophies and bringing our loyal travellers even more exciting travel experiences in the years to come. All the while, Country Holidays will continue strengthening our current offering as we search for more off the beaten path destinations and truly unique travel experiences for Country Holidays’ adventurers. We look forward to sharing more developments in the coming months.
Chang Theng Hwee
Contributors Based in Singapore and Vancouver Island, Peiwen He has called Berlin and the Italian Dolomites home. She likes spending too much time in one destination and making friends with people who will take her to hidden gems for the best food. In this issue she follows her taste buds through the culinary foodscape of Istria.
No matter the language barrier, perceived danger, altitude, fashion faux pas, or ingested gluten, Laura A H Elliott writes to inspire while making her home in the world. In this issue she talks with Everest veteran Khoo Swee Chiow.
Avid traveller and foodie Grace Brewer recently left Britain for the exoticism of Hong Kong, where she enjoys exploring the city’s vibrant wet markets and hidden beaches. In this issue she discovers a tourism initiative in Southern China that’s helping preserve the timeless Hakka culture.
Marissa Carruthers is a British journalist who has lived in Cambodia for the last six years. She writes about travel, lifestyle and culture across Southeast Asia for various publications, including the South China Morning Post, AsiaLIFE Cambodia and TTG Asia. In this issue she dives into the rich history of both Country Holidays and Scott Dunn.
Publisher Chang Theng Hwee Managing Editor Nick Walton nickwalton@artemiscomms.com Chief Sub Editor Philippa Walton Art Director Ndrew Poon ndrewpoon@gmail.com Marketing and Advertising Carmen Ng carmen.ng@countryholidays.com.hk Journey Weaver is owned and published by Country Holidays, 04-20/21 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Road, Singapore 247909 www.countryholidays.com.sg Find even more travel inspirations at www. journeyweavermag.com Journey Weaver is produced by boutique custom publishing agency Artemis Communications Ltd. www.artemiscomms.com All rights reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively by Artemis Communications Ltd, its partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the production agency. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Artemis Communications Ltd and Country Holidays do not make guarantee as to the accuracy of the information contained.
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Perks & Privileges
B E I NG IN THE KNOW Enjoy special deals and a spot of exclusive pampering with Country Holidays’ coveted Perks & Privileges.
Stay 4 Pay 3 at Nihi Sumba Save 25% at one of Asia’s most awarded retreats when staying at Nihi Sumba in Indonesia between September 16 and December 15, 2018, with all meals, non-alcoholic drinks, mountain biking, Sumba Foundation Project tours and sea activities included.
Third Night’s A Complimentary Charm at Four Seasons Langkawi Enjoy your third night on the house when staying at Four Seasons Langkawi between now and December 13, 2018 in a Country Holidays exclusive. You’ll also enjoy daily full breakfast, an upgrade to the next room category, where available, and a spa credit of US$100.
Savings on Selected AmaWaterways Sailings Capture the essence of river cruising in Europe and be rewarded with US$300 in onboard credit and complimentary private airport transfers on AmaWaterways’ sailings in Europe this winter. You’ll save up to US$750 on the eight-day Romantic Danube itinerary, which travels between Vilshofen, Germany and Budapest, Hungary, with stops in Slovakia, Linz and Vienna; and the Enchanting Rhine itinerary, which departs Basel, Switzerland, with visits to Strasbourg, Cologne and the Rhine Gorge en route to Amsterdam. You can also save while exploring the acclaimed Christmas Markets of Mannheim and Gengenbach on the Rhine Christmas Markets departure; and the markets of Nuremburg, Vienna and Taxis Castle on the Iconic Christmas Markets with AmaWaterways journey.
Toast to Adventure at Kenya’s Governors’ Camp
Travel for Two with Wilderness Safaris
Enjoy a US$88 discount per person on a Hot Air Balloon Safari and a complimentary bottle of sparkling wine, a Country Holidays exclusive, when you take advantage of the Chinese New Year Safari Special at Kenya’s acclaimed Governors’ Camp in the Masai Mara. The special includes two nights at Loldia House and three nights at Governors’ Camp, Little Governors’ Camp or Il Moran Camp, with travel between January 4 and March 31, 2019.
Stay four nights or more (minimum 2 nights per camp) at any Wilderness Safaris camp and your partner stays for free. Even better, if you’re staying at one of the Botswana camps, your partner will also fly camp to camp for free as well. Available to holders of Asian passports or permanent residents of Asia, this deal is valid from January 10 until March 31, 2019, but excludes Mombo, Chitabe, Hoanib, Bisate, and North Island.
16/Scott Dunn &
Country Holidays A Meeting of Passions
21/Explorer Cover Image: Moscow’s St Basil’s Cathedral, dusted in snow, is an iconic sight during the winter months. Credit: Shutterstock
Content AUGUST 2018 48/Russia
Cultural Collusion
56/Hero
Call of the Mountains
Khoo Swee Chiow
58/On the Road
Louen Tang: The Off-Season Adventurer
2/PERKS & PRIVILEGES Exclusive Deals from Country Holidays
4/The Calendar
Events & Festivals from Around the Globe
24/Winter Destinations Capitals of Cold
6/Dispatches
60/Food Trails
The Latest in Luxury Travel
Flavours of Land & Sea
10/Signature Departures
Small Groups, Big Adventures
30/Ski Chalets Piste Perfection
40/Gear
Ice Cold Couture / A Traveller’s Best Friend
13/Off the Beaten Path Trekking Tajikistan
14/Global Exposures
42/Itinerary
A Land of Volcanoes & Jungle Temples
62/Community Hakka House
64/Culture Creature Carnival of the Devil
The Homecoming
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The Calendar
SEPTEMBER 14 – 16, 2018
Singapore Grand Prix Singapore
Singapore has been the home of Formula One night racing for ten years. Experience this thrill-seeking event and watch the world’s best drivers race against the glittering cityscape backdrop on the Marina Bay street circuit. Off-track, a world-class lineup of live music and entertainment will perform on four stages situated around the circuit. www.singaporegp.sg
NOVEMBER 2, 2018
Day of the Dead Edinburgh, Scotland
Day of the Dead, or Día de los Muertos, is a festival full of colour and fun, traditionally to show love and respect for the deceased. Across Mexico, people don colourful costumes and ‘sugar skull’ face paintings, take to the streets and celebrate the lives of lost loved ones with traditional food and drinks, singing and dancing. Make sure to stop by the grand parade in Mexico City, slated as the best of the country’s many processions. www.visitmexico.com
DECEMBER 5, 2018
Krampusnacht Parade Klagenfurt, Austria
Credit: Klagenfurt
The Krampus Parade celebrates a demon that haunts central Europe as the seasonal period approaches. While Santa Claus brings gifts for children, Krampus kidnaps and eats those who didn’t make it onto the “nice list”. People dress as the hairy incubus with twisted horns, masks and full fury costumes, and then parade through the streets and squares of Klagenfurt, scaring children and adults alike. Over 1,000 ‘Krampus’ march by the Alter Platz (Old Square) every year, accompanied by traditional figures such as angels, witches, and St Nicholas himself. www.visitklagenfurt.at
JANUARY 2019
Winter Wine Classic Santa Barbara, California Fight the January blues with Santa Barbara’s eighth annual Winter Wine Classic at The Fess Parker Resort in California. Wine lovers across the globe travel to attend the California Wine Festival magazine event, where small and large wineries display their latest vintages and serve up samples and appetisers. One of the largest events of California’s elite wine industry, the Wine Classic’s lineup consists of live music, wine tasting and talks from some of the region’s best winemakers. www.californiawinefestival.com
FEBRUARY 16 – MARCH 5, 2019
Carnevale di Venezia Venice, Italy
Credit: Vela Spa
The Italians’ final blow-out before Lent, Carnevale has been celebrated since the 11th century, with the biggest carnival taking place in Venice. Gondola parades sail through the city, firework displays are held in St Mark’s Square, but the real parties are at the many masked balls and dinner shows. Overlooking the Grand Canal, the Ca’ Vendramin Calergi palace will host the official 2019 Venice Carnival Dinner & Ball, famous for its elaborate masks and performances, which go into the early hours. www.carnevale.venezia.it 5
Dispatches
New Look for Wild Retreat Belmond Savute Elephant Lodge, located in the heart of Botswana, has reopened as a timeless explorer’s lodge, connecting its guests to nature like never before. The Savute region has long been associated with some of the world’s greatest explorers, including David Livingstone, who arrived in the area in 1851 and observed the dramatic surroundings of one of Africa’s greatest wildlife spots. Set on the Savute Channel, the new-look lodge, designed by Inge Moore of Muza Lab, includes 12 tented rooms, an indulgent spa, a spacious lounge and bar with elegantly-curved rattan and leather chairs; an
open deck with plunge pool and firepit; and a wildlife viewing hide overlooking the watering hole, a first for the area. This hide allows guests to connect with the wildlife at eye-level, giving them a front row seat when lions, elephants, cheetahs, hyenas and antelope gather for a refreshing drink at dusk. The new camp also has a green thumb; all concrete has been removed, and been replaced with eco-friendly composite bamboo, while 95 percent of the lodge’s power needs will now come from solar panels.
Exploring Below the Waves If you’ve always wanted to play Captain Nemo, the Four Seasons Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru has launched DeepFlight’s most advanced submarine model to date, the mighty Super Falcon 3S. Constructed from the same carbon fibre composites as a 787, the Super Falcon 3S is a pioneering submarine that takes up to two guests on a captivating aquatic adventure through the Baa Atoll, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Designed with minimal electric and acoustic emissions, the submarine ‘flies’ beneath the surface, ensuring passengers stay dry with a pressurised, air-conditioned cockpit with individual viewing domes. While you won’t be at the controls yourself - there’s a professional pilot for that - you’ll be distracted by shoals of tropical reef fish, turtles, sharks, pods of dolphins and even fevers of manta rays as you descend to a depth of 37 metres.
The Future of Flight Ever wondered where luxury air travel is headed? A new concept by Airbus and Zodiac Aerospace might give you a clue. The two brands have collaborated to develop and market a lower-deck passenger sleeping compartment that would fit inside an aircraft’s cargo bay. Built into modules that are easily interchangeable with regular cargo containers and inspired by existing lower-deck crew rest areas, the concept would not only allow for full-length bunk style sleeper berth, but also work spaces, conference rooms, lounges and even children’s areas. The concept could be introduced by interested airlines as early as 2020.
Ritz Carlton Yachts Open Reservations Luxury lovers will be scrambling to secure their berths on the muchanticipated new Tillberg Design-envisioned Ritz Carlton Yacht, which is due to set sail in February 2020. With several distinct itineraries available, guests have the option to book back-to-back voyages without repeating ports, allowing them to explore a wider range of destinations and delve into the local culture at each port. Designed with a yachting lifestyle in mind, the first of three 149-suite bespoke yachts in The Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection will stop at both signature and iconic destinations, including the Mediterranean, Northern Europe, the Caribbean, Latin America, Canada and Northeastern United States. Voyages will range from seven to ten nights with ports including Barbados, Cartagena, Bordeaux, Copenhagen, Mykonos, and Portofino. The ship’s intimate size allows it to sail into coveted city habours around the world, and the relaxed pace of the itinerary offers both daytime and overnight ports of call, giving guests more flexibility for their time on land. Each itinerary is packed with unique programming at each destination, from the Christening Celebration on the Inaugural Voyage and the Monaco Grand Prix, to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo, and exploring the yachting playgrounds of the Greek Isles, Balearic Islands and French Riviera.
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Dispatches
An Icon Reborn Tucked away at the foot of the scenic Oloololo Escarpment at the rim of the Great Rift Valley in Kenya’s iconic Masai Mara Reserve, andBeyond Bateleur Camp has recently reopened following a complete rebuild. An African icon, the andBeyond camp has been completely rebuilt by the lodge’s original designer, Fox Browne Creative, who has refreshed and upcycled many of the twenty-year-old camp’s original artefacts, antiques and furniture pieces to create truly refined suites which are now twice the size - that tell the tales of African exploration to a new generation of safari goer. The new design retains the vintage silver, soft worn leather, antique trunks and crystal decanters of the old camp, while incorporating new design touches such as old-world maps and elegant brass fittings that contrast with white marble surfaces. Suites feature ensuite bathrooms flanked by private stone courtyards with spacious bathtubs, as well as indoor and al fresco showers, sunken daybeds on the private verandas, and luxury minibars for those crucial African sundowners. In addition to two new swimming pools with generous decks and unbeatable views, the camp also boasts a spa that provides a selection of treatment and massage options and a wellequipped fitness centre with floor to ceiling roll-back glass walls that look out onto the Mara.
Luxury in Space An American company plans to have a luxury hotel orbiting the earth as soon as 2021. Houston-based Orion Span will offer 12-day stays at its compact Aurora Station, a space base approximately the size of a Gulfstream jet, for US$9.5 million per person, and is currently accepting fully-refundable US$80,000 deposits. However, this isn’t just a pleasure cruise. The company plans to streamline the 24-month training process most astronauts go through into three months of intensive training, during which guests would be taught the fundamentals of space flight, life in a pressurized environment, and emergency procedures. During the stay in space, guests will enjoy zero gravity, grow food they can take home with them, and even help with experiments while staying in touch with loved ones via high-speed wifi.
Your New Maldivian Hideaway Opening before the end of the year, Joali is the newest luxury retreat to grace the white sand beaches and coral gardens of the Maldives. With 73 private beach and water villas and a clutch of sublime residences, each featuring insightful in-room libraries, cavernous bathrooms and thoughtful objects d’art, Joali has been designed with the most discerning traveller in mind. With bold designs by Autoban and Tokyo’s Studio Glitt, as well as immersive art from young talents like Misha Khan, Joali complements its mezmerising location in the Raa Atoll, a 45-minute seaplane ride from the capital Male. For the ultimate escape, check in to the 500sqm Private Ocean Residence, which boasts three bedrooms, three dressing rooms, and two living rooms, as well as two infinity pools, a butler, and its own traditional Dhoni. Be sure to leave time for Japanese and Peruvian cuisine at the Noriyoshi Muramatsu-designed Saoke restaurant; or an indulgent massage at the Joali Spa by ESPA.
New Land Programs for Silversea Luxury cruise line Silversea has released exciting new land programs for sailings in late 2018. Each of the new Signature Land Program Collection adventures is led by an experienced Silversea expedition leader and delves into one of nine intrepid destinations. In Iceland, guests will have the chance to visit geysers and towering waterfalls, soar over active volcanoes in a helicopter, and sample some of Reykjavik’s leading restaurants; while guests travelling to Sri Lanka will be able to explore the UNESCO-listed Sigiriya Lion’s Fortress and visit the ancient city of Anuradhapura. There are also chances to take special charter flights through Canada’s Great Lakes; visit the Uru-Aymara people of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia; learn about Chile’s leading wineries on a South American foodie foray; or hike Nepal’s Chitwan National Park with a local naturalist.
New First Class for Oman Air Oman Air, the national carrier of the Sultanate of Oman, has unveiled a luxurious new First Class product to coincide with the launch of its new lounge at Muscat International Airport. The new First Class Mini Suites, available on the airline’s Boeing 787-9 aircraft, are private sanctuaries complete with in-suite chilled minibars, personal wardrobes, and dedicated stowage space for carry-on bags. Each suite also features a 22-inch personal monitor with AC and double USB ports, an oversized dining table, and a 23-inch wide lie-flat seat that expands to 30-inches when it becomes a 76-inch long bed.
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Signature Departures
Small Groups,
Big Adventures Seek out new destinations with like-minded companions with Country Holidays’ popular Signature Departures, small group itineraries dedicated to the spirit of discovery.
Japan
6 Days / November 2-7, 2018
Follow in the footsteps of pilgrims, samurai and nobility on Japan’s Kumano Kodo Trail, which has been welcoming travellers for more than 1,000 years, on Country Holidays’ six-day Japan Kumano Kodo Trail itinerary, departing November 2, 2018. Stay the night in intimate temple lodging at Mt Koya before departing on the hike to the Ise Grand Shrine, the most sacred in Japan. Along the route you’ll delve into photogenic Autumn foliage landscapes, ride the log rafts of the Dorokyo Gorge, stay at timeless Japanese ryokan, enjoy lunch with the ‘sea women’ of Ise, and reward your efforts at the luxurious Amanemu resort.
8D
Central America 13 Days / November 13-25, 2018
Tibet
Sandwiched between the mighty Pacific and Atlantic Oceans, Central America instils the very best of Latin America, with a patchwork of destinations that offer travellers a true kaleidoscope of culture immersion. Country Holidays’ 13-day Central America itinerary, departing November 13, 2018, ensures you see the very best this unique destination has to offer, from a behind-the-scenes visit to the Panama Canal, and a chance to visit a private museum in Old Panama, to the chance to explore ancient Mayan ruins with acclaimed archeologist David Sadat. Highlights of the itinerary, which visits the volcanos and colonial villages of Panama, Guatemala, and Honduras, with add-ons available to Belize or Costa Rica, include a private deluxe picnic among the ruins of Tikal; a champagne sunset cruise on Lake Atitlan; and a private Mayan shaman ceremony. Read more about this unique corner of the world on Pg 38.
8 Days / December 22-28, 2018
Departing December 22, 2018, Country Holidays’ eight-day Winter in Tibet adventure offers a unique take on this stunning Alpine setting. One of Asia’s most spectacular destinations, winter offers an alternative take on Tibet, with crisp, clear weather welcoming vibrant cultural events held in the shadows of the white-capped Himalayas. On this itinerary there’s the opportunity for an exclusive visit to the chapels of Potala Palace and to witness a session of traditional debate among monks at the Sera Monastery, as well as the chance to visit a local Tibetan home for lunch. From your base at the St Regis Lhasa you’ll also be able to explore Jokhang Temple, follow the pilgrim circuit at Ganden, and exercise your bartering skills at the Barkhor Bazaar before crossing the 5,000-metre-high mountain passes to visit high altitude lakes and the endless Himalayan plateaus en route to the Tibetan townships of Gyantze and Xigatze.
Ethiopia 10 Days / January 10-20, 2019
One of Africa’s fastest emerging destinations, Ethiopia is a place of colour and contrast, of ancient history and a rich culture. During the 10-day Ethiopia with Timkat itinerary, which departs January 10, 2019, you’ll discover the very heart of the nation. Timed to coincide with the country’s colourful Timkat festival, the Ethiopian Orthodox observance of Epiphany, which marks the baptism of Jesus in the River Jordan, travellers will have a chance to bare witness to this remarkable celebration. Time stands still in much of Ethiopia, a land of beautifully stark landscapes, many of them protected as national parks; ancient rock-hewn churches; and some of the earliest Christian archeological sites. In addition to the pageantry of Timbak, during which the faithful re-enact the baptism and form a procession for the sacred Tabot, a model of the Ark of the Covenant, visitors will also be able to enjoy a traditional coffee ceremony, an integral part of the social and cultural life in this remarkable destination. 11
Signature Departures
Oman 8 Days / February 2-9, 2019
Another increasingly popular destination that has managed to resist the onslaught of mass tourism, Oman offers a chance to experience the Middle East as it was, before skyscrapers and highways dominated the landscape. The eight-day Oman Top to Bottom Adventure by Country Holidays departs February 2, 2019 and captures the very best of this spectacular locale. Begin in the capital Muscat, one of the cleanest cities in the world, where you’ll explore traditional Arab architecture in the old fortified harbour and along the dhow-lined corniche; and encounter the stallholders of the Muttrah Souk before touring the country’s breathtaking coastline by 4x4, passing verdant oases and villages as you cross the arid Hajar Mountains en route to Nizwa, home to one of the country’s most beautiful forts, and your hotel, the mountaintop Jabal Akhdar. In the southern capital of Salalah, you’ll set out for an unforgettable luxury camping experience in the Empty Quarter, the world’s largest sandy desert, before climbing the towering dunes on an exhilarating 4x4 adventure.
South America 12 Days / March 31-April 14, 2019
Dramatic, timeless and resolute, the Andes stretch down the spine of South America, and at their northern cusp the mountains give way to seemingly endless deserts. It’s this otherworldly locale that Country Holidays explores on the 12-day Atacama & Bolivia Across the Andes itinerary, a journey which delves into this remarkable landscape with exclusive excursions and unforgettable activities. Starting in northwest Argentina, you’ll have the opportunity to explore the Spanish colonial architecture of the region, before encountering the iconic Hills of Seven Colours on your way to the Chilean Atacama, the driest desert in the world, which you’ll visit in the company of a private guide. In this landscape of volcanoes, lagoons, hot springs, geysers and rolling sand dunes, you’ll stargaze at Alto Atacama Hotel during the new moon before venturing into Bolivia’s mesmerising Uyuni Salt Lake, the largest on earth, where you’ll check in at the Luna Salada Salt Hotel. Your adventure finishes in La Paz, known as the Tibet of the Andes.
Madagascar 12 Days / June 2-14, 2019
Still one of Africa’s most coveted destinations, Madagascar is a nature lover’s paradise and Country Holidays’ 12-day Madagascar Air Safari, departing June 2, 2019, skips the logistical nightmares of weather-ravaged roads and allows for more time in the island’s most dramatic environments. Home to some of the richest biodiversity on the planet, Madagascar is a destination where time stands still and on this unique private charter adventure you’ll visit acclaimed Andasibe National Park with a leading primatologist to visit the iconic lemurs, endearing animals that can be found nowhere else. In the capital Antanararivo there will be opportunities to soak in the French colonial architecture and enjoy views from the old Queen’s Palace, while the itinerary also includes visits to Isalo National Park, a landscape of deep canyons and ancient rock that’s home to five lemur species; the iconic Avenue of Baobab; and Tsingy de Bemaraha, a UNESCO sanctuary of needle-like limestone formations.
Off the Beaten Path
TREKKING TAJIKISTAN The tiny landlocked nation of Tajikistan just might be the best hiking destination you’ve never heard of. Ancient, intrepid and mesmerising in its otherworldly beauty, Tajikistan is finally having its moment in the sun as the Central Asian nation welcomed hikers, mountaineers and culture buffs to bam-i-dunya or the ‘roof of the world’. More than half of Tajikistan is mountain ranges with the rugged Pamir, Alay, and Fann mountains, home to challenging trails and rock faces and crystal clear glacial waters, forming some of the most dramatic sceneries in Central Asia.
Tajikistan is no destination for the faint of heart; infrastructure is as basic as the scenery is beautiful, but for the experienced, open-minded walker, there is authentic hospitality to be found at the lodges and tea houses along the most popular routes, as well as landscapes you won’t have to share with more than a chosen few.
Country Holidays offers two ways to explore Tajikistan; the 11day Untouched Tajikistan With Fann Mountains Trek offers the chance to visit the nation’s capital, Dushanbe, before you make for the mountains, passing through the Anzob mountain pass and following the Fann and Zerafshan rivers en route to the ancient trading city of Penjikent, from where your hike of the Urjam River valley and Oamir Fann mountains begins.
Alternatively, visit the yak farms, ancient mausoleums, remote alpine villages and dramatic waterfalls of Tajikistan during the 14-day Jeep Safari Over the High of Silk Road, which begins in Kyrgyzstan and ends in Kazakhstan. While in Tajikistan you’ll explore the vibrant Panjshanbe Bazaar and the timeless Mughtepa Fort and enjoy lunch beside the River Varzob.
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Global Exposures
The Homecoming Photographer: Bobby Lee Destination: Abyaneh, Esfahan In rural Iran, the annual Ashura Festival, held in September, is an opportunity for the young to return to remote villages like Abyaneh, as seen in this image taken during a Country Holidays Global Exposures Iran Photography Workshop led by photographer Bobby Lee. Located in Isfahan Province, in central Iran, Abyaneh is home to just 305 people. One of the oldest settlements in the country, the village is best known for the deep, striking ochre red clay of its buildings and for the colourful traditional costumes worn by the Abyanaki during regular festivals, when younger generations return and celebrate with their families. These include long patterned scarfs worn across the shoulders, and pleated skirts.
The next Global Exposures Iran Photography Workshop with Bobby Lee will be held in September 12-23, 2018 and will visit the magnificent ruins of Persepolis, the architecturally stunning city of Esfahan, and the vibrant capital of Tehran, alongside other hidden jewels. There is no better time than the Ashura Festival to experience rich Persian culture and to encounter the energetic side to otherwise quiet villages like Abyanaki. For those who love travelling and photography, this is a chance to refine your storytelling technique via visual documentation, in a small group setting with a professional photographer.
About Bobby Lee Award-winning photographer Bobby Lee has been collaborating with major design institutions and corporations across Asia for over 40 years. Besides focusing on commercial photography, he is also active in promoting photography as a form of art and technology.
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Country Holidays & Scott Dunn
A Meeting
of
Passions
Global exploration just got a lot more exciting with the merger of travel companies Scott Dunn and Country Holidays. Here’s how these two pioneering brands have redefined travel to deliver a range of carefully curated adventures. By Marissa Carruthers.
A lifelong passion for travel is what unites the founders of Scott Dunn and Country Holidays. Both avid explorers from a young age, they wanted to share their sense of adventure with the rest of the world, never imagining that one day, together they would realise their vision. It was in 1986 that Andrew Dunn, founder of Scott Dunn, decided he wanted to organise stylish ski holidays. Starting with two chalets in Switzerland, Dunn brought together a group of friends to create a truly unique and luxurious chalet experience. Tapping into what travellers sought when heading to the slopes, from private chefs and dedicated hosts to experienced nannies, a new vision of the luxury ski holiday was forged, and travel company Scott Dunn was born, quickly carving a space for itself in the blossoming luxury ski market.
(Clockwise from left) Simon Russell, Group CEO of Scott Dunn and Chang Theng Hwee, Founder of Country Holidays and CEO of Scott Dunn Asia; Andrew Dunn, President and Founder of Scott Dunn at his favourite resort, St. Anton in Austria; Andrew Dunn (second from left) is a passionate skier and has been enjoying the mountains all his life; Andrew (second from right) with some of the original Scott Dunn team back in 1986.
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Country Holidays & Scott Dunn
“When Scott Dunn first launched there were very few luxury tour operators, none of which were offering luxury catered ski chalets, which is where the demand was,” says CEO Simon Russell. “The level of service was so important in those early days; little things such as offering guests a wake-up call service with a cup of tea, taking their skis down to the lift, and making the chalet a luxurious home from home made Scott Dunn stand out from the crowd.” Determined to offer more to the growing number of discerning travellers wanting to explore the world, Scott Dunn expanded its portfolio to offer more global, tailor-made trips. These included firsttime family safaris in Africa, trips of discovery in South America, and luxurious private island honeymoons, all delivered with a sense of adventure but without the loss of creature comforts. “Over the years, Scott Dunn has done it all from closing a pyramid in Egypt for a private dinner for an esteemed guest to organising a wedding in a hot air balloon over the Masai Mara in Kenya,” says Simon. The company has also developed a portfolio of Mediterranean villas mirroring the success of the alpine chalet holidays it pioneered.
It has also developed a range of vacations geared towards children and teens through its Explorers children’s clubs and Crew Programme in Europe and the Maldives. In similar style, Country Holidays founder Theng Hwee’s appetite for travel drove the formation of his company. During his university days in Singapore, he recalls how he led several trips of an outdoor adventure club, including taking a group of 12 trekking through the Himalayas, a destination he had not visited previously. Hooked, after graduating he continued running the student trips, eventually taking the plunge to found Country Holidays in 1993 with his wife Siew Yim. Three years later, Theng Hwee was further inspired after meeting the first Australian to climb Everest, Greg Mortimer. “He is also an experienced Antarctic expedition leader,” says Theng Hwee. “With a leap of faith, I launched the first Antarctic trip for Singaporeans and it was a stunning success. This led me to believe Singaporeans will go anywhere and I launched many more exciting destinations, including Africa, Latin America, Iran and Timbuktu.” (From top) Glamping under the star-lit skies of Wahiba Sands in Oman; Kayaking at the foot of giant glaciers in on of British Colombia’s most remote locations
Since then, the company has grown from a three-person start-up selling Nepal hiking to one that has offices in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing and Dubai, which offers trips to all corners of the globe. With changing travel demands, new destinations opening and people’s passion for exploration expanding, both companies have had to work hard to remain leaders in their game, seeking out hidden corners of the globe and unique travel experiences, and setting travel trends rather than simply following them. “While Scott Dunn guests still demand a high level of service, this has become expected and therefore the hotel aspect of a holiday isn’t as important as it was say 15 years ago,” says Simon. “An increasing number of Scott Dunn guests are seeking unique and exclusive experiences that they can tick off their travel bucket list.” Examples include teepee wilderness camping in Lapland, helicopter glacier kayaking in British Colombia and photographing the annual Black Necked Crane festival in Bhutan with renowned private photographers such as Scott Woodward. For Country Holidays, continuing to deliver unforgettable experiences continues as its top priority. “We remain true to our original focus of bringing clients to the remotest corners of the world with intimate, personalised and pristine experiences,” says Theng Hwee, who cites the Antarctic’s pristine wilderness and Iran and Guatemala’s cultural experiences as his top destinations. Both leaders in their field, in 2016 merger talks began between the two companies, with 18 months of negotiations taking place. The result is a travel organisation that ticks all the boxes, offering a diverse range of unique experiences and activities across the world. Country Holidays clients will have access to Scott Dunn’s Explorers kid’s clubs, Crew Programme, and portfolio of luxury catered chalets and villas in Europe, while Scott Dunn holiday-makers can now tap into the unique destinations Country Holidays offers. These include Mongolia, Uzbekistan and Georgia – all countries previously unavailable. This merger offers travellers more than just a shared vision. Combining Scott Dunn and Country Holidays also means there will be advanced services in place to help guests, from a 24-hour hotline and faster response time from travel consultants thanks to advanced technology. Together the two brands will have a stronger buying power, ensuring competitive rates for guests, who will also have access to even more experienced travel consultants, including specialists with true insight into the world’s most fascinating destinations. This allows the philosophies of Scott Dunn and Country Holidays to continue, but with an enhanced guest experience. (From top) Chang Theng Hwee, who founded the company with his wife Siew Yim, at the original Singapore office of Country Holidays in 1994; Theng Hwee during a trekking trip in the Italian Dolomites; Theng Hwee with his family hot air ballooning in Colorado.
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Country Holidays & Scott Dunn
Theng Hwee with family in Antarctica in December 2014
“The alliance of both the Scott Dunn Asia and Country Holidays brands will mean expertise in both the local and expat markets with specialist teams on both sides to create one highly skilled team that lives and breathes travel,” says Simon. Intrepid high-end travellers have an exciting string of destinations to explore in the coming year, with Theng Hwee predicting that Bolivia, Ethiopia, Madagascar and Rwanda are set to shine, while Simon expects the spotlight to be thrown on Jordan and Oman in 2019. “Both countries offer something completely unique from what can be found in Asia,” says Simon. “From the luna-esque landscape of the Wadi Rum and rose-red city of Petra to the sparkling gold of Muscat’s Grand Mosque and glamping under the stars at Wahiba Sands in Oman.”
Going ahead, there’s a bright future for these two dynamic companies. Country Holidays will be rebranded as Scott Dunn, with the existing Scott Dunn and Country Holidays teams in Singapore merging and inspiring each other at a brand new headquarters in the Lion City. Theng Hwee will take on responsibilities as CEO of Scott Dunn Asia and Simon will continue his role as Group CEO. These two pioneering travellers will forge a new vision for the Scott Dunn brand that incorporates the passions and aspirations of both Scott Dunn and Country Holidays travellers, both in Asia and beyond.
Explorer
ON
MOUNTAIN HIGH It’s hard to believe that the first Southeast Asian and fourth person in the world to complete The Explorers Grand Slam–– reaching the South Pole, North Pole and Seven Summits–– would ever get caught with his pants down. Or that life in Kansas birthed his epic climbing journey. Laura A H Elliott delves into the incredible world of Khoo Swee Chiow. I caught up with Swee Chiow after he’d summited Mulhacen in Spain’s Sierra Nevada and quickly discovered we had common acquaintances in Nepal. Here ended our similarities, and as we talked I realised how humble and vulnerable Swee Chiow remains as his incredible life unfolds. Even regular adventurers have many things to learn from his experiences. After he climbed and summited Everest in 1998, he didn’t waste any time, reaching the South Pole in 1999. After summiting Kilimanjaro in 2000 he thought, well, maybe he should finish the Seven Summits, the world’s seven loftiest peaks. Done. Then it became clear that he should finish The Explorers Grand Slam by also reaching the North Pole. “I took one step at a time”, says Swee Chiow, “not having The Explorers Grand Slam as the goal from the start.” Every climb had its challenges but nothing like his first attempt to ski to the North Pole. He had to abandon the mission after nine days due to frostbite injuries. The failure tested his ability to conquer The Explorer Grand Slam. “The months following the failed North Pole attempt was one of the hardest times in my life,” says the adventurer. But he came out of the experience realising that if he didn’t try again, it would be a regret that would follow him to his deathbed. For the second attempt, he changed up some equipment, altered his strategy and doubled-down on training in the Canadian Arctic. Swee Chiow learned from an experienced guide, gaining a greater understanding of the dangers of the journey. In the end, the two men arrived at the North Pole with some close-call moments.
The ability to turn set-backs into victories will resonate with many. So many of us get stuck––frost-bitten by our circumstances, unable to move. So how does a Singaporean get bitten by the climbing bug? Where might be a better question––in Kansas, of course. Swee Chiow had worked in software and his company required him to fill a position in the heart of The Great Plains in the Central United States––the distant Rockies called. “I’d leave Kansas on Friday nights, drive ten hours to Colorado, arrive early in the mountains the next morning then climb.” His funniest climbing moment happened twice. On the climb to Everest, Swee Chiow had a spot of Jelly Belly and had to relieve himself while wearing a full down suit, oxygen and harness. Because the mountain was so steep and narrow, he had nowhere else to go but right on the path. “Imagine exposing my butt in the frigid cold while climbers passed me one by one!” Now, that’s courage! Besides amazing butt-exposing abilities at altitude, Swee Chiow also has the distinction of summiting Tibet’s Shishapangma without oxygen. When I asked about the side effects, he laughed and said he didn’t have many brain cells left. Swee Chiow’s simple advice to help make our dreams come true, despite the naysayers? “Dream big, start small. Know what’s important in this short life and just go do it. Remember, you only live once. Stay away from negative things and people.” Swee Chiow has just celebrated summiting his 151st peak, in Spain. “I’ll never be able to climb all the mountains in the world, but it’s about the journey, right?” Indeed.
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
THE FUTURE OF
LUXURY SMALL SHIP CRUISING With small ship cruising more popular than ever, two leading lines continue to innovate in order to offer an unsurpassed luxury cruising experience to a chosen few.
Culinary Encounters on the High Seas Within the plethora of cruise lines, Oceania Cruises, which celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, has defined and refined fine dining at sea. The world’s leading culinary and destination-focused cruise line now adds to its existing culinary experiences with the introduction of expansive new menus featuring flavours and techniques from around the globe, paired with world-class wines. The new Grand Dining Room menus combine tried-and-true culinary classics with a series of bolder “Global Cuisine” options dishes that capture the essence of the world’s most exotic and sought-after destinations – as well as healthy Canyon Ranch Balanced Selections options.
All-new Executive Chef ’s Food & Wine Pairings are available every night onboard and feature exquisite dishes specifically curated for their complementary and contrasting flavours, while a series of tasting menus will focus on the gastronomic heritage of specific destinations or cooking styles. Highlights of the new menus include herb-crusted Cornish hen diavolo; Palermo-style grilled swordfish; smoked ricotta risotto; and chef Paul Bocuse’s signature Alaskan halibut viennoise, with menus available on the line’s intimate Riviera, Sirena, and Insignia vessels from this month, and aboard the Nautica, Marina and Regatta from August. www.oceaniacruises.com
A New Benchmark in Luxury Not to be outdone, luxury line Regent Seven Seas Cruises has opened reservations for the inaugural season of its much-anticipated new ship Seven Seas Splendor. With her first transatlantic voyage taking place in February 2020, the Seven Seas Splendor’s inaugural season includes journeys to popular destinations such as San Juan, Barcelona, Cabo San Lucas, New York, Saint-Tropez, Portofino, Los Angeles, Dubrovnik, Corfu and Cartagena, destinations which can be explored with unlimited shore excursions on every voyage.
Catering to just 750 guests, the ship boasts some of the highest space to guest ratios in the cruise industry. The vessel’s 375 elegantlyappointed staterooms range from the 307 square-foot, entry-level Veranda Suite, to the lavish 4,443 square-foot Regent Suite. Each guest room offers a private balcony, European king-sized Elite Slumber bed, and oversized bathroom fitted with rich marble and decorative tiles.
Additionally, the Seven Seas Splendor will feature awe-inspiring public spaces, with many design elements, including intricate, soaring ceilings, a Grand Staircase, and al fresco seating at the Coffee Connection cafe adopted from sister ship Seven Seas Explorer.
Regent Seven Seas Cruises offers the industry’s most inclusive luxury experience aboard its all-suite fleet. A voyage with Regent Seven Seas Cruises includes all-suite accommodation, highly personalised service, exquisite cuisine, fine wines and spirits, unlimited internet access, sightseeing excursions in every port, gratuities, ground transfers and a pre-cruise hotel package for guests staying in concierge-level suites and higher. www.rssc.com 23
Winter Wonderland
Capitals of
Do you have your heart set on the picture perfect white winter? Some destinations come to life as the mercury drops. Here’s some of our favourites.
Moscow A destination often overlooked during the winter months, Moscow actually comes to life under a thick blanket of cold, with festivals and events welcoming and then farewelling the chilly months – you just have to ensure you pack for the season. New Year’s Eve in Red Square is a unique experience for the intrepid reveller, but for a more elegant snow-driven soiree, the events of the Russian Winter Festival can’t be missed, with ice sculptures lining the Moskva River and Revolution Square, and locals ice skating at Gorky Park. If the cold does get to you, head indoors to one of the city’s many world-class cultural institutions, from the Bolshoi Theatre to the Pushkin State Museum of Fine Art. In February, the city farewells winter during the Maslenitsa festival, with traditional blini pancakes representing the spring sun, traditional fist fights, bear wrestling, and fireworks.
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Winter Wonderland
Tibet The kingdom at the top of the world, Tibet isn’t as harsh as you might assume during the winter months. There are many reasons why it’s actually now in vogue to travel to the Himalayas during November to February, with travellers arriving to bask in Tibet’s 3,000 hours of annual sunshine and to soak in mesmerising star-filled skies without having to tackle throngs of tourists. Winter also welcomes many more pilgrims to the country’s major monasteries, including Jokhang, with Tibetans celebrating Losar, the Tibetan New Year, during the heart of winter. The clear air is crisp but dry, ensuring surprisingly comfortable temperatures, whether you’re hiking the mountain valleys or joining in with the celebrations in Lhasa.
Nepal It may come as a surprise, but Nepal is increasingly popular during the winter months, when hikers arrive for shorter trails at lower altitudes, sans the masses. During December, January and February the weather is dry and crisp, ensuring great hiking conditions, and as it’s still regarded as ‘off season’ you’ll have no trouble finding the best accommodation available or the trails unblocked by hikers posing for selfies. Some of the best winter hikes include the Everest Panorama Trek, a great alternative to the Everest Base Camp itinerary that visits
Namche Bazaar, Thame and Tengboche, where you can explore the famous Dawa Choling Gompa monastery; the Poon Hill Trek, an extremely popular route in the summer months that passes through Ghorepani and Ghandruk and offers stunning up-close-and-personal vistas of Annapurna and Dhaulagiri; and the Kathmandu Valley Trek, a 2-3 day hike from the capital city to Bhaktapur via Nagarkot and Dhulikhel. Alternatively, explore the Chitwan National Pak on Nepal’s flat plains, home to elephants, rhino, and several spectacular trails.
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Winter Wonderland
Iceland There’s one major reason why you might brave the cold of Iceland in winter and that’s the Northern Lights. One of the most popular Aurora Borealis viewing destinations, Iceland offers captivating celestials displays during the long dark nights of the winter months and a brilliant contrast to the long sun-kissed days of summer. Long lingering sunrises and sunsets are a great way to frame your schedule; spend days exploring the interior’s towering waterfalls, thermal hot pools and active volcanic peaks, before delving inside one of the many glaciers, where waters that flow in the summer freeze, forming sensational blue eye cathedrals. Afterwards, as the day ends, return to your accommodation – which should be one of the island’s chic boutique lodges – for worldclass cuisine, before donning a Lopapeysa, a traditional Icelandic jumper, and making your way outdoors for uninterrupted star gazing sessions.
Oslo Perfect for families looking to make the most of the snowy landscapes, Oslo is a great wintertime destination for active travellers, with everything from cross-country skiing and sledding to ice skating on offer. The winter season sees less tourists visiting the Norwegian capital, ensuring a more authentic, local experience for those willing to brave the cold. Head to Oslo Winter Park to cruise the slopes of Tryvann and Wyller or wander the snow dusted pieces of the Vigeland Sculpture Park, before warming up at the city’s Mathallen Food Hall, home to over 30 artisanal stores; or at the world-class Astrup Fearnley Collection, a captivating modern art museum on the cusp of the city’s fjord.
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Ski Chalets
Piste Perfection Perfect for families or groups of friends hitting the slopes together, a luxury ski chalet offers the creature comforts of home, with spacious living areas to relax in together after a day on the slopes. On top of this, there are private chefs, drivers and dedicated nannies, and many of the chalets have their own pool, hot tub or wellness area. Country Holidays now has access to Scott Dunn’s extensive collection of stunning chalets located at some of Europe’s top ski resorts. Here are some of the firm favourites.
Chalet Papillon Val d’Isère, France
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Ski Chalets
CHALET PAPILLON Val d’Isère, France
Sleeping eight snow bunnies, Chalet Papillon is one of our newest luxury properties in the acclaimed Val d’Isère ski resort, a mecca for downhill skiing and a lively village, brimming with restaurants and shops. Boasting a breathtaking indoor swimming pool, a private hammam, and an expansive living area with a large dining table, wood burning fireplace, and views up La Face de Bellevarde, the chalet is just steps from the Bellevarde chairlift. Scott Dunn will provide an in-resort driver to make getting to and from the slopes hassle-free, as well as a private chef, and the kids can be booked into their exclusive Explorers kids club, run by highly-qualified nannies in the centre of the village.
CHALET HUSKY Val d’Isère, France
Also situated in Val d’Isère, one of France’s most popular ski resorts, Chalet Husky is perfect for families travelling together. Catering to 14 across seven en-suite bedrooms, this unique property is exclusively operated by the Scott Dunn team and is one of the collection’s flagship chalets. In addition to expansive living spaces, including a games room with indoor climbing, archery and rifle shooting; the property boasts a private wellness enclave, complete with large swimming pool, jacuzzi, gym, massage suite, hammam and sauna, perfect for post slopes recovery. Sit back and relax as your host serves up evening drinks and canapés whilst the chef creates a feast with the freshest regional produce. 33
Ski Chalets
CHALET ARTEMIS St Anton,Austria
Capturing the best of the Austrian Alps, Chalet Artemis is an outstanding luxury ski chalet situated in the quiet Nasserein neighbourhood of the renowned resort of St Anton, a five-minute drive from the chairlifts. One of the region’s most highly-regarded ski chalets, Artemis caters to 12 guests across six twin rooms, each of which boasts a flatscreen television, broadband internet, and integrated Sonos music system. After a day spent on the slopes, return to cocktails on the rooftop balcony with its panoramic views of the
mountains. You can warm up in the indoor swimming pool, complete with counter-current jets, relax in the sauna or steam room, soak away aches and pains in the indoor/outdoor hot tub, or catch a classic movie in the private 12-seat cinema. A Scott Dunn selected private nanny can whisk little ones away for age-appropriate activities while the adults can celebrate success on the slopes with a glass of chilled Laurent Perrier Champagne and a five-course dinner prepared by the private chef.
If you prefer an elegant self-catering option, you can’t go past these luxurious residences in the French Alps.
SIX SENSES RESIDENCES Courchevel 1850, France
A marriage of the luxury of one of the world’s leading hotel and spa companies and one of the world’s most glamourous ski resorts, Six Senses Residences Courchevel is a collection of stunning luxury ski apartments that are ideally suited for families and smaller groups looking to enjoy the convenience of a self-catered apartment. The two and three-bedroom apartments, located in the Courchevel 1850 ski resort, offer open plan fully-equipped kitchens, modern entertainment systems, nightly après-ski drinks and delicious nibbles in the Six Senses
Lounge, access to a superb Six Senses Spa on site, complete with an indoor pool, outdoor hot tub, and treatment rooms where indulgent wellness rituals are conducted. Fly in from Geneva by helicopter in just 30 minutes and spend the days cruising the slopes of the world-famous Three Valleys ski area before heading out to dine in Courchevel’s top restaurants.
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Ski Chalets
CHALET SHAR PEI Val d’Isère, France
Boasting all the luxurious amenities you’d expect from one of the region’s top ski chalets, Shar Pei sleeps eight guests across four en-suite guest rooms, with room for two little ones in an adjacent bunk room. The chalet is set just steps from the lifts that open up some of the best skiing in Europe, this beautiful chalet commands breathtaking views towards the Face and Solaise from its spacious top floor lounge and dining room. Take a dip in the indoor swimming pool or a soak in the
wood-lined hammam; have an oil massage booked for your return from the slopes; then tuck into a delicious afternoon tea, remembering to leave space for dinner tailored to suit your requirements by the Scott Dunn chef. Kids will love the range of activities on offer at the Scott Dunn Explorers kids club with flexible schedules specifically designed to fit around ski school.
CHALET LE R Courchevel 1550, France
Chalet Le R is a beautiful alpine retreat that’s perfect for families looking to conquer the Three Valleys, one of the world’s largest ski areas. Designed for eight guests but with room enough for up to 12, this splendid chalet is both modern and playful, and captures the energy of Courchevel 1550, an emerging luxury enclave minutes from its famous sibling resort of Courchevel 1850. A 5-minute drive to the Grangettes gondola lift each day, thanks to the private driver service, Chalet Le R boasts an open-plan living room with double-height ceilings and a wood burning fireplace, a balcony with mountain views, a dedicated dining space, an over-sized hot tub and sauna, and an indoor swimming pool. Start each day with tea in bed, followed by a hearty breakfast prepared by your private chef and served by a dedicated Chalet Host, before hitting the slopes, with all lift passes, guiding, tuition, and equipment organised by your Chalet Manager.
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Ski Chalets
CHALET MATHILDA Val d’Isère, France
Combining Savoyard authenticity with contemporary luxury, Chalet Mathilda is the perfect base from which to explore some of the most sought-after slopes in the French Alps. Nestled within the private estate of Les Fermes de Val d’Isère, an idyllic setting of luxury properties, Chalet Mathilda caters to ten lucky souls across five spacious guest rooms, some with bathtubs. Each room also features traditional timber beams, one of which boasts a Moroccan-styled ceiling. With rustic chic interiors that will make you feel right at home, the main living room
has a stone fireplace while a dedicated dining area is kissed with plenty of natural light. A short walk from the village centre, Chalet Mathilda features an indoor swimming pool with jet streams, as well as a private steam room, the perfect antidote to a day on the piste. There’s also a dedicated kids club, so while younger guests are happily entertained, the grown-ups can set out to explore the resort.
CHALET CHINCHILLA Courchevel 1850, France
Situated just steps from the Cospillot piste, Chalet Chinchilla’s ski in/ski out location makes it an ideal retreat for families and smaller groups who like to be close to the slopes. It caters for six adults in three double en-suite rooms and two children in a separate bunk room and has a rustic, understated feel that belies its luxury. After a long day exploring the slopes, come together around the living room’s stone fireplace, enjoy drinks on the south-facing terrace with its mountain views, cast away the chills in the private sauna, or pamper yourself with an in-chalet massage. Make use of Scott Dunn’s fully-qualified nannies who can babysit so you can explore Courchevel’s dynamic dining scene.
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Gear
Ice Cold Couture Outdoor specialists The North Face has collaborated with Japanese designer Junya Watanabe and fashion brand Comme des Garçons to create a jacket that greys the lines between functionality and haute couture. The Terra 65 jacket takes its name from another The North Face product, its popular backpack, but that’s where the similarities end. With a price tag north of US$2,500, the Terra 65 jacket is made from three-layer Goretex Windstopper fabric, which ensures you’re kept sheltered from the elements while retaining heat within. There’s an adjustable hood, and reinforced collar and elbows in corduroy, as well as a series of useful pockets for things like keys, smartphones and lift passes. There’s also a day pack incorporated into the jacket, which makes the combo ideal for the likes of Antarctic cruises where space and weight on those charter flights is always a factor.
A TRAVELLER’S BEST FRIEND Whether you’re headed to the Arctic or a walking tour of Amsterdam, a good backpack will make the difference between a great adventure and a logistical nightmare. Here are some of the newest travel backpacks on the market.
Minimalist yet packed with features, the Classic Backpack from Bellroy has room for a 15-inch laptop as well as a tablet or iPad in a designated padded sleeve; an internal zip for life’s smallest essentials, quick access external pockets for maps, water bottles and sunscreen; and padded straps for a comfortable carry. Accents in ventureweave polyester and environmentally-certified leather add a sophisticated touch.
The limited-edition Vibe 28L ECONYL anti-theft backpack from Pacsafe is designed to secure your gear during urban explorations and exotic treks alike. Whether you’re on a beach break in Mozambique, or hiking through Japanese forests, Pacsafe’s patented anti-theft technology offers peace of mind. The backpack has space for a laptop, a change of clothes and other essentials, and even better, 100 percent of the profits from this bag go to support Pacsafe’s Turtle Fund.
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Itinerary
A Land of Volcanoes & JungleTemples A journey through the exotic and fascinating nations of Central America is an opportunity to delve into the very heart of Latin culture.
Sandwiched between the Pacific and Atlantic, linking the continents of North and South America, Central America is a fascinating patchwork of countries often overlooked by travellers. With a rich heritage that reaches back to the Mayan Empire, Central America offers a stunning array of experiences, from vibrant cities to untouched jungles and pristine coastlines rarely explored. Country Holidays’ 13-day Central America itinerary captures the region’s essence to perfection, with visits to ancient cultural sites through to chances to explore behind the scenes of the Panama Canal, one of the seven modern wonders of the world. Commence your adventure in Panama City, where you’ll delve into the ruins of Old Panama, a historic precinct once looted by the pirate Henry Morgan in 1671, before taking an exclusive tour of the docks and locks of the Panama Canal. There’s time to wander the cobbled streets of UNESCO-listed Casco Viejo, famed for its neo-classical architecture and to enjoy a tour of the private Casa Endara museum before returning to your hotel for a sunset rooftop cooking demonstration. After arriving in Managua, the capital of Nicaragua, a country often regarded as the region’s last frontier, you’ll travel to Granada, with visits to the famed El Mercado Viejo Craft Market and an authentic Nicaraguan ‘white village’ or Pueblos Blancos, renowned for their white stucco buildings, along the way. As the day draws to an end, hike Masaya Volcano to be mesmerised by the caldera’s lava formations.
(Clockwise from left) Hiking Masaya Volcano; lava in the active crater of Masaya; the colonial architecture of Granada Nicaragua
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Itinerary
Bordering Lake Nicaragua, Granada is best known for its beautifullypreserved architecture, including a carefully restored cathedral and picturesque plaza, which you’ll explore on a guided walking tour that stops in to meet local artisans, including shoemakers, pinatas workshops and hammock weavers. In the afternoon, take to the lake to visit Las Isletas, an archipelago of 365 islands created by the volcanic eruption that are now dotted with local craft shops and villages. You’ll also explore by water during a day trip to Ometepe, one of Nicaragua’s most iconic destinations. An island in Lake Nicaragua formed by two towering volcanoes - Volcán Concepción and Volcán Maderas – the hourglass-shaped island is the largest in the lake. You’ll have a chance to hike its shoreline, visit secluded beaches, and mingle with the locals that call this unique landscape home.
From Nicaragua you’ll venture to Guatemala, a favourite destination among Country Holidays’ travel managers. You’ll fly into Guatemala City before climbing into the Highlands, visiting colourful local weekend markets in Chichicastenango before arriving at Lake Atitlan, the jewel of the the Sierra Madre mountains. You’ll have the opportunity to visit traditional Mayan villages nestled along the banks of the volcanowreathed lake during a boat trip to San Juan La Laguna, where the Tz’utujil people are renowned for their painting and weaving. At the end of the day you’ll continue on to the mountain town of Antigua.
(Clockwise from top left) The volcanic island of Ometepe; Lake Atitlan at sunset; a religious festival in Antigua; the beautiful of Lake Nicaragua
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Itinerary
Founded in the 16th century, UNESCO-listed Antigua has lovingly preserved its Spanish colonial architecture, much of which was painstakingly restored after being destroyed in an earthquake in 1773. Today the town is best known for its innovative dining scene, boutique hotels and towering volcanic backdrop. After visiting the De La Gente Coffee plantation, a great direct trade coffee company that supports local small-scale producers, and the Mayan village of San Miguel, you’ll have a chance to follow your taste buds during a walking tour of Antigua’s old quarter. In the historic Honduran city of Copán, a UNESCO-recognised destination famed for its rich Mayan culture and delicate carving and woodwork, you’ll be guided through timeless ruins by archeologist David Sedat, who has called Copán home for much of his life, finishing your explorations at his residence for an intimate dinner party.
You’ll be able to put your new-found knowledge to good use when you return to Guatemala, this time travelling to Flores, the gateway to a greater Mayan Biosphere that stretches as far south as Belize. You’ll travel to Yaxha, an acclaimed Mesoamerican archeological site and former ceremonial site for the Maya civilisation that overlooks its namesake lake. After exploring the ruins, which were first constructed between 1000-350 BC and ‘discovered’ by Teoberto Maler in 1904, you can soak up its mystery and enchantment with a sunset cocktail soiree on the lake, before returning to your hotel. Continue your exploration of Mayan culture at the world-famous UNESCO-listed ruins of Tikal, an ancient Mayan citadel in the rainforests of northern Guatemala thought to date from the 1st century A.D. Hike through the lush jungle to reach the iconic pyramid, from the top of which you’ll spy other long-lost ruins punctuating the canopy. Trace a path through the ruins with a break for a gourmet lunch, before driving to the stone towers of Uaxactun, another sacred Mayan site, where you’ll toast to your adventures with a magical dinner among the towering ruins. If you’ve still not sated your new-found passion for Central America, extend your trip with a spot of diving in Belize, home to the second largest reef system in the world, or by exploring the jungles of Costa Rica, one of the world’s leading eco-tourism destinations. (Clockwise from top left) Arts and crafts in Copan; the ruins at Yaxha; many travellers add Belize’s stunning coastline to their Latin America itineraries; a festival in Copán
Sign up for our November Signature Departures and enjoy the luxury of a Country Holidays Travel Concierge and private charter flight into Honduras. For a private journey, contact Country Holidays and speak to a Travel Specialist for ideas.
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Russia
Cultural Collusion Few cities maintain the balance between the rich heritage of their past and the potential of their future like St Petersburg, Russia’s cultural capital, discovers Nick Walton.
It’s mere minutes before the witching hour at St Petersburg’s iconic Grand Hotel Europe, and the elegant lobby lounge and cigar bar is packed with the city’s movers and shakers. St Petersburg’s beautiful sip luxury Russian vodkas served by a dedicated sommelier, and feast on Beluga caviar from the Caspian Sea in a scene that’s increasingly synonymous with the new face of Russia. The country’s most historic city, from which the country’s revolution spawned 100 years ago, is also its most forward moving, as young, affluent Petersburgers flex their capitalist muscle at a host of chic restaurants, innovative galleries and world-class clubs hidden behind historic facades and surrounded by the gilded edifices of the past.
The intimate lobby bar of Belmond’s Grand Hotel Europe is a fitting place to start any exploration; the hotel has long been an icon in a city of landmarks and the list of notables who have called it a home away from home is literally as long as your arm. While the likes of Rasputin, Tsar Nicholas II and George Bernard Shaw enjoyed the hotel’s individuallydesigned suites and the performances held in the L’Europe restaurant (Tchaikovsky even spent his honeymoon here), more contemporary guests include the Red Hot Chilli Peppers, Leonardo Di Caprio, Naomi Campbell and Sharon Stone. Both Elton John and the late Whitney Houston have performed late night impromptu concerts in the hotel, the latter at the vodka bar where the city’s A-listers meet for pre-theatre tipples or late-night concoctions, knowing they’ll always be in good company. (From left) St Petersburg becomes a fantasy land under a dusting of snow; the chic Lobby Bar at the Grand Hotel Europe
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The 275-room Grand Hotel Europe, which emerged from a multi-million-dollar renovation last year, epitomizes St Petersburg’s duality: despite opening 130 years ago, the lavish hotel remains popular with visiting royalty, celebrities and politicians. The house of slumber maintains its strong links with the city’s arts scene, and many of its sumptuous, individually-designed Heritage Suites are named for Russian icons like Stravinsky and Dostoevsky, as well as for past guests like Pavarotti.
“Everyone knows the Grand Hotel,” says Natalya Makarova, a jazz singer and law student I discover dressed to the nines and sipping martinis with her friends in the hotel’s lounge bar. “It’s part of St Petersburg’s history and yet it’s kept up with the city’s development. It’s stood the test of time and now it’s the place to see and be seen more than ever.”
The Grand Europe Hotel isn’t the only place attracting the city’s new generation of affluent citizens. A modern yet elegant performance of Giselle at the nearby Mikhailovsky Theatre is sold out, with plenty of young, well-heeled ballet goers making their way through powdered snow to the regal boxes of the esteemed stage within. (From left) A performance of Giselle at the Mikhailovsky Theatre; the beautifully-preserved theatre was once a favourite with the royal class
Established in 1833 by decree from Tsar Nicholas I, the Mikhailovsky is one of Russia’s oldest opera and ballet houses. Under the Bolsheviks it became a home for experimental music, with several debuts taking place between the 1920s and 30s. In an effort to attract new audiences, Russian businessman Vladimir Kekhman was appointed general director in 2007, donating one billion rubles (US$40 million) to the restoration of the building and inviting Elena Obraztsova and Farouk Ruzimatov to coordinate the venue’s artistic revival The theatre’s full-time troop has since toured internationally and now rivals the well-known Moscowbased Bolshoi Ballet Company, drawing in affluent Petersburgers for packed shows. “What do they know about ballet in Moscow,” laughs one glamorous mink-clad patron during the intermission, when the theatre’s reception halls are packed with a spectrum of the city’s social scene. “Everyone knows St Petersburg is Russia’s cultural heart and the Mikhailovsky proves it with every performance.”
Down the road the equally famous Mariinsky Theatre, opened in 1860 and acclaimed for its operatic performances, has benefited from the addition of a 2,000 seat second theatre designed by Canada’s Diamond & Schmitt Architects and built at a cost of €500 million (US$592 million). The new venue is dedicated to modern performances and complements the lavish original venue and an adjacent Concert Hall that was opened in 2007.
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All that arts and culture is bound to leave travellers with an appetite. Fortunately, St Petersburg’s dining scene has also taken off, both with fine-dining eateries and modern takes on classic kitchens. You can dine like a Tsar at Palkin, once a favourite haunt of literary greats like Dostoyevsky and Gogol, where the imperial-themed menu includes black caviar, crab meat and sturgeon. Alternatively, modern spots include Geography, which fuses culinary traditions from across the globe and matches dishes with cocktails laced with homemade bitters and liqueurs; and Floor 41, a bold open-kitchen concept with stunning views of the city’s network of canals. Head to the River Neva to explore Novaya Gollandiya, the city’s New Holland preccinct, an abandoned industrial hub that has been transformed into a city park and cultural destination thanks to a €400 million (US$474 million) donation from Roman Abramovich’s asset management company Millhouse LLC. Here, The Bottle, a former naval prison turned foodie destination, features insightful restaurant-cum-cocktail bars like Kuznya, and yearround culinary pop-ups centred on a courtyard that hosts its own program of concerts and film screenings.
You’ll also drink well in Russia’s cultural capital, with a plethora of new watering holes – some chic and distinctly bourgeois, some rustic and positively proletarian – lining the city’s 93 rivers and canals. These range from Machty, a yacht club-styled venue housed in a former electronics factory; through to Produkty Bar, a cozy, residential-styled bar that’s popular with artsy millennials; and Redrum, one of the city’s leading craft beer havens.
St Petersburg’s art scene also continues to be a major draw card; while the city is famed for its classical art collections, much of which can be found in the acclaimed Russian Museum or the iconic Hermitage, the local contemporary art scene is also red hot, especially when the winter weather drives visitors indoors. The Hermitage opened a dedicated modern art wing a few years back and contemporary art galleries, including Street Art Museum, a fascinating gallery space etched out of a former factory that hosts the annual Present Perfect Festival; and the Berthold Centre, housed in a former foundry, are cropping up across the city, catering to newly-minted collectors. Erarta, located on Vasilievsky Ostrov or Basil’s Island, one of the city’s 42 urban isles, is Russia’s largest private contemporary art museum and is dedicated to promoting Russian art from across this vast country. With branches in London, New York, Zurich, and Hong Kong, Erarta’s collection features more than 2,000 pieces by 150 artists – it’s also home to one of the city’s hottest fine-dining restaurants.
“St Petersburg’s contemporary art scene is still in an early development phase because, going back to as recently as 2009, there weren’t any major exhibition stages or platforms for contemporary art in the city,” says Erarta president Vadim Varvarin. “As the largest private museum of contemporary art in Russia, Erarta plays an important role in introducing people to contemporary art. It’s great to see that people are embracing [art] and are taking an active interest, which is reflected in exhibition openings becoming more and more popular events in the city’s life.”
Another leading art venue is Loft Project Etagi, which is made up of three galleries and exhibition spaces and an art-themed bookstore, hidden away on Ligovsky Prospekt. You can contemplate collections in the Letny Sad or Summer Garden, situated in its own 12-hectare island on the south bank of the Neva River. Managed by the Russian Museum and accessed from the Dvortsovaya Embankment, the garden is especially popular during summer’s white nights when it hosts picnic dinners and live concerts amongst the 18th century marble statues and tree-lined alleys of this 300-year-old park.
(Clockwise from top left) Traditional Russian fare at The Bottle; caviar remains one of the most popular Russian delicacies; Sovietera art; The Hermitage remains a major drawcard for visitors to St Petersburg; Soviet-era art at the Russian Museum
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Of course, there’s more to the city than great dining and art galleries. City insiders walk off their meals with retail therapy at the Great Gostiny Dvor, the city’s iconic and utterly-expansive department store. Not only is the Grand Gostiny the oldest retail centre in the city, but it’s also regarded as the world’s first shopping arcade and its yellow-hued arches, reaching towards the horizon, can’t be missed. Building commenced in 1757 with elaborate designs by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, but a recent renovation has brought this unique retail setting into the 21st century and now countless boutiques and an extensive department store fill the cavernous space, drawing in a mink-clad crowd of affluent families and tourists from the luxury hotels of the city centre.
hall on the ground floor is a mesmerising showcase of all the luxury tipples and titbits the new generation of Russians have come to enjoy, from hand-made truffles to diamond-filtered vodka, imported cheeses and Caspian caviar. Be sure to browse the luxury spirits counter for bottles of Beluga and Imperia vodka, considered by many to be Russia’s top drops, and kick your feet up with the city’s young, chic elite in the intimate coffee shop at the emporium’s heart.
You’ll also find the social set in the palm-lined coffee lounge at the Elisseeff Emporium, further down Nevsky Prospekt, the city’s most elegant thoroughfare. Originally built in 1902, this acclaimed department store was opened by the Elisseeff Brothers and the food
(Clockwise from top left) The city has many luxury malls; the hallowed halls of The Hermitage; the Peter & Paul Cathedral; the Neva River is a vital waterway for the city
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Hero
Call of the
Mountains After a decade working with India’s leading travel companies, Tanuja Sah returned to her home in the Himalayan mountain state of Uttarakhand to open Nayalap, a remote mountain retreat for discerning tourists, in an attempt to provide local employment and help save villages like hers from rural depopulation.
More than 1,000 villages in the Himalayas have been affected by urbanisation. What affect has this has had on Uttarakhand? Locally, this migration is called “Palayan”. In a way, it is forced, as people must leave their homes and villages for better opportunities in larger towns or the cities. In these villages, the main source of employment was sustenance agriculture, and the ancillary functions that revolved around it. When people leave their land to move to more urban areas, the land turns barren and the heritage slowly erodes.
Tell us about Nayalap. Nayalap (“Palayan” spelt backwards) is a luxury rural camping retreat in the Himalayas, created to prove that villagers need not migrate to a city, and can work as a viable economic unit in themselves. I wanted to create a homestay for travellers who wanted a rural experience with more than just basic amenities. As we developed, we focused more on food, making the rural Kumaon cuisine more contemporary, and offering all the experiences a village provides, like walks, hikes, and tours of the old towns of the Kumaon region.
How is your retreat unique? Guests can experience a complete immersion into the local Kumaon culture. Nayalap is open plan; neighbours and local villagers drop by to meet travellers, local school children visit when they want to throw a party for their friends, and guests can choose to interact if they wish. For us, it is as important that the village is as satisfied with what we do as the guests are.
What input has the rest of the community had in this project? The village has been involved from the smallest to the largest of ways. From supplying us with milk and vegetables, to helping in the design and construction, Nayalap has been as much my project as the village’s. The staff are all local; our chief mason, who incorporated modern tents with traditional floor-making techniques, is from the village as well. In fact, 50 percent of the fixed costs and 80 percent of the recurring expenses have gone to stakeholders and suppliers in the village.
What’s next for Nayalap? We will soon be working with local homeowners to lease the properties that they have left unattended. These beautifully-painted homes would then be set up as exclusive stays for guests. Our belief is that the income generated from these homes would inspire other homeowners to start maintaining and rebuilding their spare homes, bringing life back to these villages. We also want to increase the number of experiences. Currently, I lead all the walks on offer to guests. I’m working on training young people in the village to lead experiences like these and to come up with excursions of their own. www.nayalap.com
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On the Road
The Off-Season
Adventurer
For Country Holidays Dubai Manager Louen Tang, travelling in the low season is a chance to capture destinations as they were before the arrival of mass tourism.
What does a holiday mean to you? As long as I can escape from my usual routine, I would call it a holiday. If I can also do something interesting and unusual, it would be the cherry on the cake.
When it comes to planning your own holiday, what are some of the things that you will always consider? Exclusiveness is always the most important factor I consider when planning my own vacation; it can be staying in a camp in the wilderness or a mountain lodge with an open view. I also appreciate the opportunities to interact with the locals, by learning about their lifestyle, and how to prepare their cuisine. Furthermore, I often travel during the off-peak season, which allows me to enjoy destinations without as many tourists.
What are the challenges you’ll consider? Weather is the challenge most of the time, but it is easily dealt with, with good preparation so I know what to expect before I travel. To achieve exclusiveness, the destinations I choose often take more effort to reach as they are more inaccessible – we may need to take a small aircraft or even walk – but I do appreciate this as a part of the journey. When I travel in the off-peak season, not all of the shops and hotels are operating, therefore we have limited choices, but it won’t compromise the overall experience.
What have been some of your favourite trips? I recently visited Uzbekistan in the winter – it was cold but manageable, and some of the key sights, such as Samarkand, were covered with snow which made the experience magical. I was also able to get myself a very good tour guide throughout the journey. My trip to Istria was also remarkable; some of the towns were not empty during the winter, and we felt like we were explorers in the medieval ages. It was also the white truffle season, and as we were the only guests in many of the restaurants, the chefs would prepare dishes especially for us.
What advice do you offer to like-minded travellers? Preparation is the key; do some reading about the destination, so that your enjoyment will not be compromised.
What are the five things we will always find in your carry-on? I’ll always travel with camera equipment, an eye shade, earplugs, sunglasses, and lip balm.
Where are you headed next? I’ll be hiking the 88 temples trail in Shikoku.
Connect with Louen at Louen.Tang@scottdunn.com 59
Food Trails
Flavours of
Land & Sea
From delectable seafood to prized truffles from medieval forests, nature has dealt Istria a bountiful hand, discovers He Peiwen. It is known as the black diamond, the pride and joy of Istria. A precious gourmet gem found in the dark, fairytale forests of Motovun and Buzet, the truffle is impossible to miss when you’re on the peninsula. Whether it’s in a country inn or Michelin-starred restaurant, you’re going to find truffles in Istria – they’re on your handmade pasta, served alongside your steak, dished out with fish or prawns, generously used in scrambled eggs, or even gracing desserts like ice cream or chocolate cake.
Truffles have increasingly become a drawcard for the diamondshaped peninsula which juts into the azure Adriatic. However, unlike in the premium truffle destinations of Italy, here in Croatia, truffles come sans the snobbery – they are just another excellent ingredient in a destination packed with fresh, inspiring produce. Even so, Istria is fast becoming a truffle destination in its own right – for decades Istria truffles have been sold in Italy as Alba truffles but today local producers are taking pride in their own coveted finds, and are serving truffles, as well as world-class seafood and timeless comfort dishes to intrepid foodie travellers.
The exceptional white truffle is in season between September and January, while different varieties of black truffle can be enjoyed throughout the year. If you somehow managed to not partake in a truffle foodgasm during your time here, you can also bring them home in the form of oil, butter and sauces or preserved in salty water or olive oil.
When it comes to Istrian olive oil, we’re talking about some of the best in the world. Olive groves are part of the hinterland’s fetching landscape and nestled amid the rolling hills are small, independent family farms such as Ipša that are superstar producers on the olive oil world stage. A tour of the Olive Oil Roads in northwestern Istria will take you to lush olive groves and cool cellars where these incredible oils are made. A word of caution though: it will be impossible to buy olive oil off of a supermarket shelf after that experience.
To feast the Istrian way is to dig into mouthwatering dishes at a local tavern. Wash down Istrian prosciutto or traditionally dry-cured ham, succulent sausages seasoned with homemade wine, as well as cold pancetta pork rounds with local wines like the ubiquitous Malvasia white or Teran, a red that is not going to win awards except in the character department. Then, dig into tasty staples like freshly handmade gnocchi served with meat stew, tubular pasta called fuži that is indigenous to Istria and ombolo pork cutlets typically served with tangy sauerkraut.
In spring, look out for the reed-thin wild asparagus, which has an aromatic flavour and a hint of bitterness. Also unique to Istria is the boskarin, a white or grey long-horned cattle that produces meat best relished as carpaccio, steak or with fuži pasta.
Hearty meat-based fare is the way of life in Central Europe. Towards the coast, however, you’ll find that the Istrian peninsula is just as incredible for its seafood. Always start with a platter of tiny Adriatic squid if you can. Grilled or deep-fried and drizzled with a small amount of lemon, you will find in each mouthful of these creatures the delicate flavour of the sea. Then there are the scallops of Novigrad, which are revered for their sweetness, a result of them growing in a mixed body of salty sea water and fresh river water. These are scallops worth enjoying raw.
To fully appreciate the catch of the day, ask for crabs, mussels and scampi to be prepared buzara-style. This ancient method uses just olive oil, garlic, parsley and wine to preserve freshness and the original flavours of the seafood. In Istria, eating is a humbling experience. To taste what is on offer is to be reminded of nature’s exuberance and how we benefit from its abundance.
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Community
HAKKA house
Off the typical tourist track, in the Chinese town of Zhangzhou, the Tulou Retreat is a well-kept secret. Converted into a boutique hotel, traditional 600-year-old structures have been given a new lease on life in an effort to preserve the Hakka community’s timeless culture. Situated within the rustic village of Taxia, and surrounded by beautiful mountains, Tulou Retreat is a local cultural success story. Dedicated to drawing guests into the Hakka way of life through a range of local cultural experiences, guests are transported back to a simpler time, when family and community were everything.
The Hakka, a branch of Han Chinese people originally from the Huanghe River Valley, migrated and settled in the Guangdong and Fujian provinces of China. Here the Hakka constructed the Tulou, circular compounds where extended families would live, secure and communal. Despite many families moving further abroad, to Southeast Asia and beyond, many still send money back to China to help preserve the legacy of their culture.
Housed within one of the original Tulou compounds, Tulou Retreat is part boutique hotel and part community initiative and is centred around building awareness while preserving the Hakka way of life.
“Tulou is quite special,” says Amy Sun, director of product development at Tsingpu Travel, which operates the retreat. “When the retreat was designed two years ago, we tried our best to keep the original structure and highlight the best features of the buildings, using local construction materials to reflect the local culture and spirit of the Hakka people. We spent over a year signing contracts with the local residents to rebuild the five original earth buildings for the retreat.”
Community
Located on a hillside in Nangjing County, the five restored earth buildings now house 24 luxury guest rooms, complete with original wooden floors and vaulted ceilings. “An S-shape river splits the village into two, with two round Hakka houses on each side creating a symbol of yin and yang,” says Sun. However, much more than just a chic house of slumber, the retreat is also an active cultural center, maintaining Hakka traditions, with more than 20 local experts employed to provide authentic experiences to hotel guests.
The hotel has had a significant impact on the local economy, helping reduce urbanization in the village while also bolstering awareness of the Hakka culture. “Besides increasing local employment, we work with external travel companies and invest a lot of time in social media to attract more and more attention, not only for the retreat itself, but to promote local resources, local culture and authentic living,” says CEO Xueshan Yang, who was one of the visionaries behind the project. “Cultural wares and locally made food are also incorporated into the overall experience, all in the hope of developing our local economy.”
Guests at Tulou have the opportunity to live the traditional lives of the Hakka through a curated collection of authentic experiences offered through local guides. Over 20 authentic experiences are on offer, allowing visitors to learn the interesting Hakka culture through a myriad activities, such as classes with local craftsmen, and tours through Taxia with village elders explaining the village’s Feng Shui and its ancient history.
“We hope that our clients will have the chance to experience real Hakka life, rather than a guided tour,” says Sun. “Whether they are following a local farmer, hunting for bamboo shoots, or picking tea leaves for local tea makers, we hope to show our client a China they’ve never seen before.” 63
Culture Creature
Carnival of the Devil Riosucio, Colombia January 2019 One of the most dramatic of Colombia’s calendar of traditional festivals, the five-day Carnaval de Riosucio Caldas ou del Diablo is held in Riosucio every second year, coinciding with the first Friday of January. At odds with many other South American festivals, the devil is actually the hero of this tale. Legend has it that the two villages of Real de Mines and Nuestra Señora de La Montaña were bitter enemies, with frequent battles breaking out between their populations. Eventually, two Catholic priests intervened, threatening eternal damnation if the conflict continued. The bi-annual festival now celebrates the more whimsical side to Beelzebub, who represents human weakness and unsatisfied longing. During the colourful celebration, which was first held in 1847, tributes are offered to the Devil by local poets, artists and playwrights, with parades, fireworks, bullfights and dancing also taking place. Elements of indigenous tribes have also been adopted, with the Devil, depicted in masks and effigies, boasting the eyes of the sacred jaguar.
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