Journey Weaver Magazine Feb 2017 Issue 1

A COUNTRY HOLIDAYS MAGAZINE

THE WORLD’S GREATEST RAIL JOURNEYS LODGE LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND WALKING ANCIENT JAPAN

ULTIMATE AFRICAN ADVENTURES FOR 2017

Fellow travel enthusiasts,

F

rom tracking polar bears in the frozen Arctic; witnessing grizzlies hunt during the salmon run; and travelling on one of Japan’s new luxury trains; to enjoying breathtaking scenery with charming accommodation and gourmet indulgences

in the likes of Provence, the Italian Dolomites, or on Japan’s Kumano Kodo Trail, there are so many new travel frontiers for us to explore and to share. With Country Holidays guests travelling to the four corners of the globe - from the Arctic to Madagascar and everywhere in between - there are also many tales to tell.

We have a love affair with travel, and have always strived to share the latest and greatest destinations, travel products and experiences through our Facebook pages, Instagram account, e-newsletter, and website. While these methods are instant, many details of the remarkable travel experiences we offer are lacking, so I’d like to welcome you to the first issue of Journey Weaver, the new travel magazine of Country Holidays and a consummate guide

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PUBLISHER

Chang Theng Hwee MANAGING EDITOR

Nick Walton

nickwalton@artemiscomms.com EDITORIAL COORDINATOR

Isabelle Lui CHIEF SUB EDITOR

Philippa Walton ART DIRECTOR

Don Pierre Riosa MARKETING AND ADVERTISING

Carmen Ng

carmen.ng@countryholidays.com.hk

for affluent travellers looking to explore the world in style. Packed with fascinating places, both established and intrepid; profiles and interviews; and adventures and insights, our first issue takes an in-depth look at the destinations that will define Africa in the year ahead; rides the rails on both the newest and most endearing of the world’s greatest trains journeys; traces the food trails of Iceland; and takes to the mountains of Central Japan on new hiking itineraries that allow travellers the chance to

Journey Weaver is owned and published

by Country Holidays, 04-20/21 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Road, Singapore 247909 www.countryholidays.com.sg Find even more travel inspiration at www.journeyweavermag.com

step back in time to an era of shoguns and samurai.

We look forward to sharing more adventures with you, and inspiring your own adventures in the months to come.

Chang Theng Hwee

Journey Weaver is produced by boutique custom publishing agency Artemis Communications Ltd. www.artemiscomms.com

CONTRIBUTORS

Isabelle Liu is a passionate

Joe Mortimer is a UK-

traveller, writer and budding photographer based in Hong Kong. Ever since doing exchanges to New York and San Francisco, she has had the travel bug and when she’s not jetting off on assignment you can find her exploring the latest restaurants and bars in her home town.

based travel writer who specialises in luxury and lifestyle. He has visited 60 countries, stayed in more than 100 high-end hotels, and eaten at some of the best restaurants in the world.

Based in London, Laure Latham is a French outdoors and active travel writer who believes that good food is key to a healthy lifestyle. Wherever she travels, she goes out of her way to find out what makes each place unique.

All rights reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively by Artemis Communications Ltd, its partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the production agency. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Artemis Communications Ltd and Country Holidays do not make any guarantees as to the accuracy of the information contained.

PERKS & PRIVILEGES

IT’S WHO YOU KNOW

Booking your next adventure through Country Holidays not only gives you insight and peace of mind, but also access to a host of special privileges and specials.

Special Seasonal Deals at Belmond Safari Camps

Enjoy exclusive seasonal deals at Belmond safari camps in Africa. For stays during the Green Season stay three consecutive nights or more and receive a 25 percent discount. During the Shoulder Season book four nights or more at a combination of lodges and receive complimentary intercamp flights. During High Season stay four nights and pay for three at any combination of lodges. Check out Africa’s top destinations for 2017 on page 28

Free Nights at Nihiwatu

Regarded as one of the finest island retreats in Indonesia, enjoy special deals at Sumba Island’s Nihiwatu resort; stay three nights and receive the fourth night free, or stay five nights and receive two nights free.

Book by March 31, 2017.

Special Deals at Vietnam’s Nam Hai Resort

Enjoy an escape to one of Vietnam’s most beautiful resorts with stay three, pay two night, and stay four pay three nights deals until December 22. Blackout dates apply.

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Save on Special Eastern & Oriental Departure

One of the world’s most endearing rail journeys, the Belmond Eastern & Oriental Express is a must for romantics and lovers of slow travel. Save up to US$500 per couple on a special Bangkok-Singapore departure (September 28, 2017) exclusive to Country Holidays and enjoy a complimentary night’s stay at the lavish St Regis Bangkok as well as private transfers between airport and train station. Read more about the world’s greatest rail journeys on page 40

PERKS & PRIVILEGES

Singita Serengeti Special

Enjoy the spectacular beauty of the Serengeti with these special rates. During the Green Season book a minimum of three nights at any Singita Serengeti property and receive one night complimentary. You’re also eligible for a 50 percent discount on a private game vehicle, subject to availability. Book six nights throughout the year at a combination of Singita Serengeti properties to receive one night free. Find out the best time to visit the Serengeti on page 28

Family Deals With Aqua Expeditions Ensure quality time with the family on one of Asia’s most important rivers, on special Aqua Expeditions cruises (May 5-August 11, 2017) aboard the luxurious Aqua Mekong, during which children aged 7-12 years will travel for free when travelling with their parents.

Blackout dates apply.

Save at Wilderness Safari Camps in Africa

Save up to 10 percent on stays at selected Wilderness Safaris camps in Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe when you book before September 30, 2017 and travel between October 2017 and March 2018.

Black out dates apply. Read more about Africa’s top lodges and camps on page 28

Belmond Afloat in France

In another Country Holidays exclusive, cruise France’s idyllic canals on the new Belmond Pivoine, launching July 2017, with a special departure (October 1, 2017) between Meaux and Chalonsen-Champagne. With savings of over US$1,100 per couple, enjoy a complimentary night at the luxurious Park Hyatt Paris-Vendon, as well as private airport transfers, a spa treatment voucher from Six Senses Spa at the Westin Hotel, and VIP access to the acclaimed Galeries Lafayette department stores. Groups of up to eight will enjoy an extra US$1,300 discount but be sure to book by March 31, 2017.

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PERKS

STAY IN THE KNOW While we all travel for the destination, it doesn’t mean we don’t like to be treated like VIPs at our chosen hotels along the way.

However, many hotels don’t have loyalty schemes for consumers, making it hard to stand out from the crowd when it comes to enjoying a few select perks. That’s when booking travel through the right travel partner comes in handy, offering access to a host of indulgent perks and amenities many consumers only dream of.

With over 20 years’ experience booking luxury travel around the world, Country Holiday has the inside line with the globe’s greatest hotel brands, offering its customers access to a host of coveted services and amenities, from complimentary breakfasts and hotel credits, through to room upgrades, flexible cancellations, VIP welcomes, and those all-important early check-ins and late check-outs (subject to availability), ensuring a stay to remember.

Stay at Peninsula Hotels worldwide to enjoy access to the many amenities exclusive to the PenClub, an elite loyalty programme for top performing travel agencies, which include ‘Peninsula Time’ anytime check ins or check outs, ensuring you save on day rooms when you arrive early or depart late. Don’t be surprised

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ION Adventure Hotel Selfoss, Iceland

when you’re upgraded to a larger suite upon check-in, or receive special room amenities, from extensions to that in-room massage, through to executive lounge access for evening cocktails, the best way to start your next adventure. You can even receive a 50 percent discount on an adjoining room for the kids.

At Ritz-Carlton, Edition and Bulgari hotels and resorts, you’ll have access to specially curated Ritz-Carlton STARS benefits, simply by booking your hotel through Country Holidays. These might include a beautifully framed family portrait waiting by your bed at the Ritz-Carlton Kyoto, followed by US$100 credit to spend at one of the hotel’s world-class restaurants; free room nights at the iconic Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong; or executive lounge access at the Ritz-Carlton Shanghai Pudong.

At Belmond’s many world-famous hotels, and on its trains and cruises, you’ll receive room credits, complimentary upgrades, daily breakfast and special locally-inspired room treats; while at Design Hotels’ chic urban hotels and luxurious resorts, you’ll benefit from complimentary breakfast and internet access, as well as airport transfers and even welcome bottles of champagne.

To learn more about these special amenities, talk with your Country Holidays travel specialist.

Contents FEBRUARY, 2017

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New ZealaNd LODGING AROUND

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africa ULTIMATE ADVENTURES FOR 2017 COVER IMAGE: Dinner under the stars at &Beyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge

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COMMUNITY SPIRIT

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BeaTeN paTh THE ARCTIC’S FINAL FRONTIER

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TraiN JourNeys NEW ERA FOR SLOW TRAVEL

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explorer FRAMING THE WORLD

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hero THE RHINO WHISPERER

60 50

JapaN IN ANCIENT FOOTSTEPS

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food Trail OF FISH & VIKINGS

culTure creaTure HAIL TO THE HEADHUNTERS

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oN The road ANDY CHAN

THE CALENDAR

Vivid Sydney 2017 May 26 – June 17, 2017 Sydney, Australia

Boasting lighting projections that turn the iconic Sydney Harbour into a captivating canvas, the world’s largest annual festival of light, music, and ideas attracts two-million visitors from around the world. This captivating 23-night outdoor art exhibition will bring the Sydney shorefront to life with colourful, glowing artworks, decorated building exteriors, and live music performances, many held at the Sydney Opera House. www.vividsydney.com

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THE CALENDAR

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Festival 1 Holi March 13, 2017 India

An annual celebration of the victory of good over evil and of a good harvest, the Holi Festival is an ancient Hindu religious event that takes place on the first day after the full moon in March. Signified by the burning of the demoness Holika, this ‘festival of colours’ takes its inspiration from the stories of Lord Krishna, who would prank village girls by drenching them in water and coloured powder. Today this event draws passionate participants from around the world to coloured powder street battles, guaranteeing amazing photo opportunities. www.holifestival.org

Carnival 3 Rio February 24 - 28, 2017 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The world’s largest and most colourful street party, the famous Rio Carnival attracts millions of festival lovers from across the globe. Look out for the over 200 samba schools, including Brazil’s most popular, Manguiera, which lead the awe-inspiring parade, just one of a series of highenergy events over the five-day festival. www.rio-carnival.net

Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race 2 The March 4, 2017 Alaska, USA

A 352 mile (522 kilometre) annual sled race between the Alaskan cities of Anchorage and Nome along the snowcarpeted Iditarod National Historic Trail, the famed Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race features mushers and dogs from around the world, with each team battling sub-zero temperatures over its 9-15-day duration, bringing a festive atmosphere to the remote Alaskan settlements along the route. www.iditarod.com

Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival 4 New April 28 - May 7, 2017 New Orleans, USA

Celebrating the best of Louisianan music and culture, the world-famous New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival once focused exclusively on local acts. With growing popularity across borders and oceans, this annual event now welcomes both national and international artists to The Big Easy to perform jazz, Afro-Caribbean, and folk music. Infused with passion and energy, the festival showcases emerging and established talents as well as plenty of opportunities to dine on Louisiana’s brilliant Cajun cuisine. www.nojazzfest.com

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DISPATCHES

himaLayaS By heLo Take to the snowcapped mountains of Bhutan with a ground-breaking new Scenic heli-adVenTuRe from Como Hotels & Resorts that includes one of the most captivating helicopter experiences on the planet. Combining scenic drives and helicopter flights with gourmet dining, daily guided excursions, and luxurious accommodation, the six-night itinerary offers the first opportunity to explore Bhutan by helicopter, using the state-of-the-art aircraft of the Royal Bhutan Helicopter Service, the country’s fledging air ambulance fleet. In addition to visiting magnificent dzong fortresses and timeless shrines in both the Paro and Purnakha valleys, you’ll fly to the remote Laya Valley - at 13,500 feet the country’s highest settlement - to meet the Layal people; soar over the Turquoise Lakes of the Labatama Valley; and cruise past the iconic Tiger’s Nest Monastery (to which you’ll climb the next day) for the ultimate photo opportunity. Priced from US$27,280 per room, twin share, the itinerary includes accommodation at both Como Uma Paro and Como Uma Purnakha, spa treatments and yoga classes, two helicopter flights and airport transfers. www.comohotels.com

gLacier BayS & poLar BearS Departing August 31, 2017, SilVeRSea will offer a unique cruise itinerary from Greenland down the east coast of northern Canada, with visits to Baffin Island, Torngat Mountains National Park and the remote Lower Savage Islands. An ideal itinerary for polar bear spotting as well as whale watching and birding, this expedition cruise aboard the 130-passenger Silver Explorer will depart Kangerlussuaq in Greenland, initially cruising north to Sisimiut, home to the northernmost ice-free port, and Disko Bay, famed for its glaciers and icebergs, before continuing to Ilulissat, with visits to the town’s famous icefjord, which is best viewed during a helicopter excursion.

After crossing the Davis Strait, the iceberg super-highway, the Silver Explorer will visit Iqaluit on Baffin Island before sailing south to the Lower Savage Islands in search of Ursus maritimus, the mighty polar bear, during guided zodiac excursions. After crossing the Labrador Sea, Silver Explorer will cruise the Newfoundland coast, with zodiac tours of L’Anse aux Meadows and UNESCO-listed Gros Morne National Park, and a port visit at St Pierre, one of the smallest French Overseas collectives in the world, before arriving in St John’s. 16 days from US$11,655 per person; www.silversea.com

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DISPATCHES

LuXury taKeS new heightS Capture the beauty of the active volcanic peaks of the central North Island of New Zealand with a new helicopter safari of Mts. Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro from acclaimed luxury retreat huKa lodGe. Guests depart the lodge’s manicured lawns at dawn, climbing to capture the Central Plateau’s otherworldly scenery at first light as the helicopter sweeps across Lake Taupo and up the bushclad alpine valleys of the Kaimanawa Forest Park, home to herds of wild horses and deer. Land on the banks of the Rangitikei River, an acclaimed fly fishing spot, in time for a champagne-laced breakfast. On the flight back the route skirts the towering peaks of UNESCO-listed Tongariro National Park, famed for its captivating Emerald Lakes and brooding Te Maari Crater, which erupted twice in 2012, before following the Waikato River back to Huka Lodge.

Only available in the month of April 2017, and priced from US$2,650 per person, this special package includes one night’s accommodation, pre-dinner drinks, a five-course gourmet dinner, the helicopter trip (for two guests), with Champagne and pastries, a full country breakfast upon your return. Read more about stunning Huka Lodge on page 20. www.hukalodge.co.nz

hiKe peru’S SacreD peaKS Explore Peru’s RainBow mounTain TReK as part of Country Holidays’ newest South America itinerary. The four-day trekking component, which is accompanied by llamas and pack horses, explores the Cordillera Vilcanota, on the Camino del Apu Ausangate route that skirts the highest sacred mountain in the Cusco region, with accommodation at unique tambos or Andean lodges, and Peruvian meals prepared by experienced local chefs along the way. You’ll cross the fertile Vilcanota Valley and visit the colonial temple of the Immaculate in the town of Checacupe before ascending the Pitumarca Valley, where you’ll meet local mountain communities. After climbing the Anta Pass there will be chances to view the glaciated south face of towering Apu Ausangate, and to encounter the mezmerising red sandstone formations of the 16,500ft Nevado del Inca, home to the vizcacha, a member of the chinchilla family. Other highlights include spotting herds of gracious vicuñas and flocks of huallatas, Andean geese; as well as a stay at the Huampococha Tambo, wreathed by mountains with red, ochre, and blue strata. Contact your Country Holidays travel specialist for more details.

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DISPATCHES

Scenic to Launch ecLipSe DiScovery yacht

Set to change the way affluent travellers explore the world, Scenic will launch its pioneering ‘discovery yacht’ Scenic

eclipSe in August 2018, with a maiden voyage from Istanbul to Venice, followed by itineraries to the Americas, Antarctica, the Arctic, Norway’s fjords, and the Mediterranean. A cutting-edge custom-built vessel offering ultra-luxury married with the intimacy of a private yacht and the credentials of an ice-rated expedition vessel, Scenic Eclipse will cater to just 228 guests in 114 all-verandah suites. With the refinement of a luxury cruise ship, including six on-board dining options, a 5,000sqft spa, a well-equipped gym, a 240-seat theatre, and a guest to staff ration of almost 1:1, Eclipse will redefine expeditionary cruising thanks to its two helicopters; a fleet of zodiacs; a seven-seat submarine; and an experienced Discovery team of naturalists and guides. All this adventure will be complimented by Scenic’s all-inclusive luxury, which includes all meals, top-shelf beverages; butler service, wifi; gratuities; shore excursions; and all on-board entertainment and lectures. www.scenicusa.com

roSewooD to open

in phnom penh Opening later this year, RoSewood phnom

penh promises to lift the luxury benchmark of the Cambodian capital. Occupying the top 14 floors of a new 39-floor tower at the heart of the city’s business district, the hotel will offer panoramic views of the city from its 175 guest rooms – among the largest in Phnom Penh – as well as access to the country’s first luxury retail mall. Look out for the Rosewood’s two specialty restaurants; a spectacular sky bar set on a cantilevered terrace; and a signature spa boasting five treatment rooms, a modern fitness centre, and a 20m swimming pool. www.rosewoodhotels.com

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DISPATCHES

a cuLinary cruiSe in Burma The STRand cRuiSe, the luxury river vessel operated

by Yangon’s recently-reopened hotel The Strand, will host an exclusive culinary cruise on Myanmar’s Ayeyarwady River in March, led by new executive chef Christian Martena and Michelin-starred guest chef Sylvain Royer of the R&B Lab Company. The four-night cruise between Bagan and Mandalay on March 13, 2017 will explore ancient capitals and fascinating temples along the river, while also offering passengers the chance to accompany the chefs on visits to village markets to discover local ingredients such as the tea leaf, which is used to make Laphet, a traditional Myanmar salad of fermented green tea. The chefs will also present some of their signature dishes, pared with wines, each evening in the ship’s elegant dining room. From US$2,694 per person, including meals, house wines, guided excursions and wifi. www.thestrandcruise.com

new ZeaLanD’S neweSt Super LoDge The newest addition to New Zealand’s spectacular luxury lodge line up, helena Bay has opened in a remote corner of the Bay of Islands, offering well-heeled travellers the best of contemporary Kiwi hospitality. Set on 5km of pristine coastline, the new adults-only super lodge, the brainchild of Russian steel magnate Alexander Abramov, features spacious, luxuriously-appointed villas and suites; its own art gallery and European-styled spa; and a heated swimming pool with captivating Northland vistas. At the signature restaurant, Italian Michelin-starred chef Ernesto Iaccarino uses the farm’s own herb gardens, sheep flock and wagyu stock, in conjunction with the best local artisanal ingredients, to produce stellar contemporary European fare, while the active will be spoilt for choice, with hiking, sailing, kayaking, deep sea fishing and world-class golf on offer. Best of all, you’ll only have to share this slice of paradise with nine other guests.

Read up more about New Zealand’s luxury lodges on page 20. www.helenabay.com

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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES

Small Group Adventures FOR PASSIONATE TRAVELLERS

Country Holidays’ unique Signature Departures journeys allow travellers to follow their passions and interests to some of the world’s most fascinating locales.

You’re a regular traveller and have graduated beyond crowded bus tours, touristy restaurants and impersonal hotels.

From intimate dinners in private homes to expert-led after-hours tours and exclusive access to vibrant cultural events, Country Holidays’ Signature Departures tours are created for mindful world wanderers looking to truly immerse themselves in a destination; to do more than just peek behind the scenes; and to come home with a true sense of place. Dedicated to small groups of like-minded travellers, every aspect of Signature Departures’ unique itineraries – from hotel accommodation and dining to daily excursions – has been carefully curated to ensure a captivating, travel experience like no other. Country Holidays has a breathtaking selection of themed Signature Departures for 2017 that explore both favourite travel destinations and locales far from the beaten path.

Culture Curators

Dedicated to historical and cultural insight in some of the world’s most intriguing destinations, Culture Curators itineraries offer private lectures, exclusive access to cultural performances and traditional artisans, and are often timed to coincide with fascinating festivals and celebrations. In Western Iran you’ll dine with a local Tabriz family, and witness firsthand the timeless tradition of the zoorkhāneh rituals, once used to train ancient warriors. In Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan you’ll visit the Ashgabat horse races and explore the Tolkuchka Bazaar, one of the largest in Central Asia; and in Peru you’ll learn about the Incan Empire from expert guide Dr Jean- Jacques Decoster before exploring the highlands on the newly-launched Belmond Andean Explorer luxury train. Intrepid travellers can even join the Mt Hagen Festival, a truly unique traditional sing-sing event in Papua New Guinea that draws tribes from across this unspoilt, wild and rarely explored destination.

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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES

Nature Lovers

For travellers looking to get closer to nature, these itineraries combine luxury hotel and lodge accommodation with charter flights and local expert insight to ensure an unforgettable visit to some of the world’s most important ecosystems. In Madagascar, you’ll skip the island’s rugged roads thanks to a chartered aircraft, ensuring more time spent in the AndasibleMantadia National Park searching for lemur troops with leading primatologist Professor Jonah Ratsimbazafy; while in Namibia, in September, you’ll soar over the Great Sand Sea and up the Skeleton Coast, before enjoying a hot air balloon encounter over the spectacular Namib Desert (read more about Country Holidays’ itineraries in Namibia on page 30). South America continues to charm travellers and in December 2017 you’ll have the chance to combine beautiful Patagonia with a flying safari to Antarctica that includes private presentations from Antarctic experts and a choice of cabin categories to suit your travel preferences.

Active Explorers

For those adventurous souls looking for a little challenge, these specialized itineraries not only include carefully selected local accommodation and restaurants, but the added perk of a luxury hotel at the end – think of it as a little reward to yourself for all your efforts. In 2017, the Active Explorers itineraries include Japan’s ancient Kumano Kodo Trail (read more on page 50) during which you’ll stay in a traditional Mt Koya temple and join in the morning prayer rituals; and log raft through otherwise inaccessible landscapes before indulging yourself at the new Amanemu resort. In Provence, in June, you’ll visit remote rural villages and stay at local inns on a guided trek; while in Africa, climb mighty Mt Kilimanjaro with a few creature comforts, complete with experienced guides and a full VIP camping experience, including hot meals and shower tents.

Passion Seekers

What better reason to travel than for your passions, whether they include gastronomy or vintage wines or photography?

The specialist Passion Seekers itineraries for 2017 include an October visit to famed French wine regions Burgundy and Champagne, where you’ll visit the prestigious cellars of Dom Perignon; walk the Grand Cru vineyards of Vosne-Romanee; and meet with the regions’ leading winemakers and vineyard owners on a unique itinerary hosted by oenologist Géraldine De Kesaint Gilly.

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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES

Signature Departures itineraries capture the essence of true travel for world wanderers following their passions. In 2017 Country Holidays offers a host of small group adventures to the world’s four corners.

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Culture Curators 11 Days Western Iran The Untouched Iran April 16-27

12 Days Turkmenistan & Uzbekistan Central Asia Silk Road April 28 to May 11

10 Days Best of Peru with Belmond Andean Explorer September 28 to October 9

16 Days Ashgabat to Almaty on Orient Silk Road Express October 15-31

11 Days Classic Iran

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October 18-30

9 Days Papua New Guinea August 14-23

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Active Explorers 6 Days Japan Kumano Kodo Trail May 12-17

7 Days Provence Walking Gourmet Adventure June 4-12

10 Days Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb (Lemosho Route) July 3-13

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Nature Lovers 12 days Madagascar Air Safari June 17-29

9 Days Namibia Fly-in Safari September 26 to Oct 5

14 Days Walk the Patagonia and Fly into Antarctic December 15-31

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Passion Seekers 7 Days Burgundy & Champagne October 1-8

JOURNEY WEAVER

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GLOBAL EXPOSURES

FINDING

FOCUS

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Increasingly, avid shooters and amateurs alike are using their passion for photography as the ideal excuse to travel the globe.

Global Exposures, Country Holidays’ dedicated photography itineraries led by professional photographer Bobby Lee, ensure travelling shooters of every skill level will come home with snaps that will thrill friends and family.

GLOBAL EXPOSURES

Award-winning photographer Bobby Lee has been collaborating with major design institutions and corporations across Asia for over 40 years. Besides focusing on commercial photography, he is also active in promoting photography as a form of art and technology.

G

lobal Exposures isn’t about ensuring you get postcard-worthy pics on your next adventure.

Dedicated to teaching true photography techniques, from correct exposure to innovative composition, Global Exposures itineraries teach photographers of all skill levels how to tell a story with their images. With personal supervision from acclaimed photographer Bobby Lee (read more about Bobby on pg 54), each small group journey – both fixed and flexible itineraries – offers insight into the destination, its people, and its most spectacular landscapes. There are two options for Global Exposures itineraries: fixed departures are for a maximum of 10 participants with one instructor, while flexible itineraries offer more flexibility on departure dates and participant numbers, making them ideal for private groups.

For 2017’s flexible itineraries, the best time to travel to Indochina is between October and March, with journeys including a four-day adventure to Laos, where you’ll capture the colourful alms ritual with local monks; join students of a local school for their lessons; and delve into the serene life of a local monastery. Two flexible itineraries also capture the beauty of Myanmar; the five-day Yangon and Bagan tour includes the lighting of 1,000 oil lamps at the Shwedagon pagoda and visits to local artisan workshops, while the eight-day adventure also includes dinner with a local Shan family, and a visit to breathtaking Inle Lake, home to the iconic one leg-paddling fishermen.

A school girl in Cuba peeks out from class.

Photo by Bobby Lee

Subtle details, including this woman’s vibrant nails and clutched cemetery tickets, add a new dimension to images

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GLOBAL EXPOSURES Photo by Terence Ku, Participant of South India photography workshop

Fixed departures for 2017 include an 10-day epic to the Caucasus, departing April 27, that will reveal the beauty of Georgia’s ancient winelands; and offer opportunities to visit remote villages and schools around Kazbegi, and learn more about the lives of orthodox priests. The 12-day Classic Iran journey, departing September 26, will visit local carpet workshops and capture the best of Kashan’s street photography at the carpet bazaars, before exploring Saveh in time for the pomegranate harvest. Finally, a destination everyone’s clambering to photograph, delve behind the scenes in Cuba on a 10-day itinerary, departing December 7, that visits the gallery of acclaimed artist Roberto Salas, explores local coffee and tobacco factories, slips backstage at the Habana Queen Show, and offers unprecedented access to the Rafael Trejo boxing gym to capture its rising stars.

Photo by Dennis Chung, participant of the Romania photography workshop

Flexible Departures (October-March) Luang Prabang 4 Days Laos

Yangon and Bagan 5 Days Myanmar

Yangon, Bagan and Inle Lake 8 Days Myanmar

Fixed Departures 10 Days Caucasus April 27 to May 6

12 Days Classic Iran September 24 to October 7 Photo by Andrew Tse, participant of Iran photography workshop

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10 Days Cuba December 7-19

NEW ZEALAND LODGES

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NEW ZEALAND LODGES

LODGING

AROUND

With world-class dining, spectacular scenery and authentic kiwi hospitality, travelling through New Zealand via its acclaimed luxury lodges is the best way to capture the essence of this remarkable land.

For the GolFer: the Farm at Cape Kidnappers

Set atop a stunning 2,400 hectare working farm at the heart of the Hawke’s Bay winebelt, The Farm at Cape Kidnappers delivers world-class accommodation and hospitality to one of the country’s most coveted golf courses. Developed by American hedge fund billionaire Julian Robertson, owner of sister properties Matakauri and Kauri Cliffs, this unique coastal retreat boasts just 22 guest suites, in addition to a beautifully-appointed four-bedroom Owner’s Suite. Each elegant farmhouse-style suite features interiors by designer Linda Bedell, king-sized beds, spacious bathrooms with over-sized bath tubs, wet bars, and lofty ceilings. But the real beauty is in the main lodge building, home to a sunkissed courtyard, fireplace snugs and a curated collection of local art. There’s a Balinese-themed spa, a heated infinity pool and fitness centre, an intimate wine cellar, and a Relais & Chateaux restaurant that capitalises on Hawke’s Bay’s outstanding local produce. If you’re not into golf, have the culinary team prepare you a picnic and explore the coastal cliffs on the Kiwi Discovery Walk; there are also Can-Am tours and opportunities to go horseback riding, wine tasting, kayaking or trout fishing. www.capekidnappers.com

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NEW ZEALAND LODGES

For the intrepid: treetops lodGe & estate One of New Zealand’s most acclaimed luxury lodges, Treetops Lodge & Estate is nestled amidst an 800-year old native forest just outside the geothermal mecca of Rotorua. Created by passionate naturalist John Sax, Treetops showcases the very best of New Zealand through lavishly-appointed accommodation, sensational dining, and a raft of unique encounters that infuse the region’s Maori culture, its bucolic landscapes, and its world-class trout fishing legacy. With a pioneering eco-friendly architectural design that has won the property global praise, Treetops, which recently reopened after an extensive refurbishment, offers a variety of accommodation styles, including the traditional Lodge Wing, a four-room enclave ideally suited for families and friends travelling together, and a clutch of secluded villas.

Each space is exquisitely decorated with custom furniture, fireplaces, high thread count linens, and objects d’ art. Guests can explore the estate’s seven trout-packed streams or wander 50 kilometres of adventure trails on geocaching hunts, hiking and 4WD experiences, while the lodge’s ground-breaking Maori Indigenous Food Trail, Estate to Plate Safari, and Wild Food Cooking School offer foodies unprecedented access to locally-sourced ingredients and traditional culinary culture. Be sure to leave time to visit the newly opened Spa, where a host of innovative Rituals of Treetops treatments guarantee to soothe both mind and body. www.treetops.co.nz

For the desiGn savvy: eaGles nest Hidden away atop sea cliffs overlooking Northland’s beautiful Bay of Islands, this multi-award-winning, 30-hectare estate offers world-class accommodation married with a warm kiwi welcome. Accessible by road or helicopter from Auckland, Eagles Nest features clean, minimalist lines and plenty of glass to ensure the captivating view never loses your attention. Boasting just five stand-alone luxury villas, four of which have their own private infinity pools, Eagles Nest is a departure from the classic New Zealand lodge, where meals are served in a main lodge building and communality is always on the menu. Instead, there’s no lodge restaurant and each of the five villas come complete with a stateof-the-art kitchen (private chefs at the waiting), an expansive sun deck, refined furnishings and seamless technology. Guests can settle into their lavish home-awayfrom-home with a complementary bottle of Louis Roederer Champagne, rustle up the culinary team for private BBQs, select a few bottles from the extensive wine cellar, order an in-villa massage, and be seduced by Northland’s star filled nights. www.eaglesnest.co.nz

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NEW ZEALAND LODGES

For the purist: huKa lodGe One of New Zealand’s most awarded lodges and the property which spearheaded the luxury lodge scene, Huka started life as a humble fishing cabin overlooking the iconic Huka Falls. Founded just outside Taupo in 1924, the property has developed in leaps and bounds; located on a nine-hectare private estate that edges up against the mighty Waikato River, Huka Lodge is wreathed by heritage-listed gardens and features 18 junior Lodge Suites, one Lodge Suite, a four-bedroom Owner’s Cottage and a sumptuous two-bedroom Alan Pye Cottage, named for the Irish founder. Expect thoughtful interiors

by Virginia Fisher dressed in cream, honey and lavender, with monogrammed bed linen, private terraces, well-lit bathrooms with deep soak tubs, and captivating river views.

Dining has always been at the heart of the Huka Lodge experience, with guests offered 20 private dining rooms in which to feast on the world-class cuisine of British executive chef Paul Froggatt, which is laced with locally-sourced ingredients from the central North Island. www.hukalodge.co.nz

For the aCtive soul: mataKauri lodGe The six-year old sibling of acclaimed North Island golf destination lodges Kauri Cliffs and Cape Kidnappers, Matakauri brings a more contemporary feel to the South Island. Positioned overlooking Lake Wakatipu and the towering Tooth Peaks ranges, Matakauri features just 12 guest rooms, with four located in the main lodge, and the rest scattered across the clifftops. Each boasts clean, modern décor that takes its design cues from autumn in Otago, as well as a gas fireplace, private balcony, flatscreen TVs hidden behind artwork, and quite possibly the best bathtub views in the world. The Owner’s Cottage, the lodge’s penthouse, accommodates eight in absolute luxury.

The warm colours of the suites are continued in the main lodge, where breakfast and dinner is served in the intimate dining room, on the outdoor patio, or in the private library. Head chef Jonathan Roger’s menus are inspired by the produce of the deep south and his everchanging à la carte offerings are laced with the likes of roasted scallops with black pudding and beurre noisette; North Island terakihi with mussels and dill; and smoked Otago duck with beetroot, goat’s curd and blood orange.

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NEW ZEALAND LODGES

For the solitude seeKer: annandale Nestled in Pigeon Bay, at the tip of the Banks Peninsula, Annandale is the modern face of New Zealand’s luxury lodge movement. Envisioned

by New Zealand-born real estate tycoon Mark Palmer, Annandale isn’t really one property but a collection of four, each vastly different from the next, and each spaced a good 30-minute drive across a working farm from each other, ensuring the ultimate in privacy. In addition to the historic and beautifully restored Homestead; the rustic elegance of Shepard’s Cottage; and the open-plan, family-friendly living of Scrubby Bay, Seascape, a one-room glass-encased retreat overlooking a remote bay wreathed by a stony beach and rocky headlands, can be accessed directly via helicopter from Christchurch.

For the traditionalist: BlanKet Bay Situated just outside Glenorchy, a hidden Eden at the western end of Lake Wakatipu, Blanket Bay is regularly listed among the leading luxury lodges of the world. Purpose-built, the lodge is flanked by the lake on one side and imposing peaks on the other. Designed by US architect Jim McLaughlin and built using locally-sourced schist rock and recycled timber, Blanket Bay boasts 12 luxurious guest rooms and suites, including four elegant standalone Chalets. In addition, within the main lodge building there are cavernous living rooms with double-height picture windows and towering fireplaces, intimate bars, a modern games room, a duo of wine caves, a spa and fitness centre, a seasonal outdoor pool, and an indoor spa that looks through French windows to the lake.

Located at the base of the Southern Alps, the lodge is the perfect jumping-off point for travellers looking to explore Milford Sound and Fiordland National Park by helicopter, the Dart River by high-powered speedboat, or the ancient rainforests and towering peaks of the Mount Aspiring National Park on foot. Here the flyfishing is phenomenal, the heli-skiing the best in the Southern Hemisphere, and the horse-riding sensational. Guests return to dinner cooked by multi-award winning executive chef Corey Hume and served in the cozy Lake View Dining Room. www.blanketbay.com

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A stunning, unashamedly modern, open-plan villa, Seascape offers mesmerising sea views, a duo of gas fireplaces, an outdoor Jacuzzi, a kitchen with Miele appliances, and a deep soak tub with little between it and the expanses of the Pacific.

While not a traditional lodge, Seascape offers the same chance to become a part of the landscape, to slow down, sleep in, and leave the rest of the world behind. To that end, guests can choose to have a chef cook up a storm in the butler’s pantry; have raw ingredients delivered; or opt for the “we create, you serve” approach, which has executive chef Paul Jobin prepare a gourmet dish packed with ingredients from the farm’s own gardens that are vacuum packed and need minimal preparation. www.annandale.com

NEW ZEALAND LODGES

For the FanCiFul: hapuKu lodGe & treehouses Located on the east coast of the South Island, near Kaikoura, famous for its whale viewing, and flanked by olive groves and a deer farm, Hapuku is best known for its chic treehouses.

Owner Tony Wilson was passionate about treehouses as a child and this unique property boasts four sumptuous suites in the main lodge, and five uber-cool treehouses beyond. Each Hapuku Lodge Suite boasts spectacular views of the Kaikoura Mountain Range; the Olive House Suite, a spacious apartment, also features a kitchen, open-plan bathroom with spa tub and rain shower, and a fireplace.

Most guests come to this chic country house for the innovative treehouses, each of which are perched 10 metres above the ground and are nestled in a canopy of Manuka trees. With a touch of the Swiss Family Robinson, these treehouses are elevated on stilts and are dressed in locally crafted timber, with custom furniture produced by local artisans. There’s a duo of rocking chairs and a wood-burning fireplace, a bathroom with floor-to-ceiling windows to make the most of the rural bliss, and intimate balconies with outdoor Jacuzzis for great star gazing.

For couples travelling with children, two of the treehouses also boast an additional downstairs bedroom.

For the Glamper: minaret station

After days spent deep sea fishing or searching for the humpback whales which graze off the coast throughout the year, return to the Lodge for world-class cuisine that makes the most of the property’s own vegetable gardens, and partnerships with local fishermen and hunters. Dishes like fresh local crayfish and venison with wild blackberries, matched with the best wines from Marlborough, are the ideal way to finish up your luxurious sojourn through Middle Earth. www.hapukulodge.com

A true departure from the traditional lodge model, Minaret Station marries luxury and the rugged outdoors to perfection. Only accessible by helicopter, Minaret Station is hidden away 3,000ft up in the Southern Alps, in the shadows of Mount Aspiring.

Situated on a 26,000 hectare station that’s home to just four luxuriously appointed Alpine Chalets (two tented, two hard walled), each of which features sheepskin carpeting, king-sized beds, ensuite bathrooms, and private in-deck hot tubs, the camp takes privacy and luxury to whole new levels.

Powered by its own hydro-electric system, and constructed from timber and stone harvested from the station, Minaret Station’s main lodge building may have a rugged exterior but inside are gleaming timber floors, a complimentary wet bar, and a communal dining room where head chef Jeremy Simeon serves European and Asian fusion cuisine matched with the best drops from Central Otago.

Spend your days ‘tramping’ through Middle Earthlike scenery; take the helicopter to coastal islands for crayfish dives; go sailing on Lake Wanaka; or drop in at some of the region’s best cellar doors, and return in time for an al fresco soak under the stars. www.minaretstation.com

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COMMUNITY

COMMUNITY SPIRIT

One British couple offers travellers to Kenya the chance to combine their luxury safari with a meaningful contribution to local communities, discovers

Joe Mortimer.

hen John Elias and his wife Gill set out to develop a communitybased conservation tourism project in Kenya’s Laikipia County, he had no idea of the impact their work would have on the local area, a vast landscape of rolling hills and pristine wilderness that’s home to Maasai and Samburu tribes.

W

Today, The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille is an elegantly-appointed mountain retreat 200 kilometres north of Nairobi, complete with swimming pool, fine dining restaurant, luxury spa and some of the best views in Africa. But above and beyond the hospitality offerings, it’s also the hub of a philanthropic network that works on improving four core areas of life for the local community: security and conservation; community education; healthcare; and water development.

Elias had always planned to use the profits from the business to support social development programmes, but he hadn’t anticipated the level of support they would receive soon after opening in 2007.

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COMMUNITY

“Our guests turned out to be extremely generous-spirited people,” he explains. “They turned out to be pretty smart people. Smart people like to solve problems, so we showed them some of the problems in the fields of education and healthcare in particular. Not only did they open their wallets and write cheques; they also became involved with the process of problem solving.”

In light of the unexpected donations, the Ol Lentille Trust was registered as a UK charity whose role was to allow the collection of gifts, and a Kenya-based NGO called the Ol Lentille Trust Kenya was created to implement community projects.

Ever since, the trust has been central to key developments in the area, perhaps most notably the improvement of security for local people and their property. The resort employs 26 uniformed conservation rangers, whose presence has led to a dramatic reduction in the theft of livestock from neighbouring tribes.

The trust has also provided safe drinking water by digging a 6,000 litre per hour bore hole, and provides crucial support in the development, licensing and staffing of primary and secondary schools in the area.

Visiting the schools has become a central part of the visitor experience at The Sanctuary, creating a dialogue between guests and local teachers and school children. Many tribal members have also become guides for the resort, enabling them to share their hopes and concerns with guests during excursions across the spectacular landscape.

aside as conservation areas. What started out as a nominal 5,000 acres has increased to 45,000, as communities see the positive results of conservation.

“At 5,000 acres you’re doing nothing of importance to the eco system, but now at almost 50,000, we’re having landscape level impact: the water table has risen; springs that have been dead for hundreds of years have come back to life; and the densities of wildlife are increasing very rapidly,” says Elias.

While continuing to provide support in these core areas, Elias hopes that next year will see further progress in educating communities about controversial issues such as FGM (female genital mutilation) and early marriage, which causes young women to drop out of school at a young age.

Last year, almost five years of work with tribal leaders culminated in the establishment of an alternative right of passage ceremony for 81 young girls, who pledged in front of their families and peers that they would not undergo the barbaric procedure, but remain in school and complete their education without compromising their eligibility for marriage.

A stay at The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille isn’t your regular African safari experience, but an opportunity to see first hand the philanthropic work carried out by one extremely driven British couple and the growing network of generous donors, whose support is having an increasingly positive impact on communities living in this remarkable corner of Africa. www.ol-lentilletrust.org

Ol Lentille’s mobile clinic started out providing medical support in remote areas, but a new 40-bed hospital eight kilometres from the resort now provides life-saving treatment to thousands of locals in a catchment area of almost 1,000 square kilometres.

Another core goal is the conservation of wildlife and the implementation of sustainable practices for the grazing of livestock. In exchange for the support the trust provides, it askes in return that parcels of overgrazed land be put

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AFRICA

ULTIMATE AFRICAN

ADVENTURES FOR 2017 With its stunning diversity, mesmerising wildlife, and myriad landscapes, Africa will offer some of the hottest experiential travel encounters for the year ahead. We’ve done the hard work for you, with our list of seven must-visit destinations for your 2017 bucket list.

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AFRICA

Tanzania Located in Eastern Africa, Tanzania continues to thrill safari travellers with its diversity and upclose-and-personal wildlife encounters. From the Ngorongoro Crater, one of Africa’s most celebrated conservation areas, where Asilia Africa recently opened luxurious and unashamedly contemporary safari retreat The Highlands, to the expansive splendour of the Serengeti, site of the annual Great Migration, Tanzania offers a comprehensive African safari experience for newbies and regular explorers alike.

The Great Migration is a truly once-in-a-lifetime wildlife encounter, as 1.5 million wildebeest, 300,000 zebra and countless antelope gather their young for the long journey from the Serengeti’s vast grassy plains north to Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve in search of seasonal grazing.

These vast herds, which can be seen from both the ground and the air, cross raging, crocodile-infested rivers and expansive savannahs where lions and cheetah lie in wait during an annual pilgrimage that’s been described as the “Greatest Show on Earth”.

While the Great Migration, which takes place year round, is best known for its dramatic river crossings, one of the most fascinating and underappreciated periods is the calving season, between January and February, when large numbers of young draw predators from far and wide, ensuring spectacular wildlife spotting throughout the Serengeti. Country Holidays’ Tanzania Calving Migration Safari includes a visit to the acclaimed Arusha Coffee Lodge, including a tour of a local coffee estate; and stays at the iconic Ngorongoro Crater Lodge; the newly-renovated mobile camp Asilia Olakira; and at Serengeti Under Canvas, a spectacular mobile tented camp at the heart of the Southern Serengeti. You’ll enjoy double-daily game drives in search of large cats and spy the Great Migration at dawn from a hot air balloon before jetting off the coast of Tanzania, for nights at the luxurious Residence Zanzibar.

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AFRICA

Botswana Already one of the most captivating landscapes in Africa, the beauty of Botswana’s Okavango Delta has earned it a place on the list of Seven Natural Wonders of Africa, as well as UNESCO recognition. Regarded as the ‘jewel of the Kalahari’, safari goers will be able to delve into an ecosystem of over 22,000sqkm that’s home to 200,000 large mammals, as well as countless bird and fish species, ensuring Botswana’s best elephant, hippo, lion and leopard viewing. The annual flooding, between May and October, breathes life into the Delta, offering captivating wildlife viewing, especially during its peak between June and August. All you have to do is decide where to base your explorations.

The Delta boasts wet, dry and mixed camps. The activities of wet camps embrace the region’s flood plains, channels and aquatic ecosystems; while dry camps offer year-round game drives and Big Five spotting. Mixed camps offer the best of both worlds for time-starved travellers, with daily boating, driving and walking safaris.

In the Okavango Delta, Country Holidays recommends guests try both wet and dry camps to get a true sense of this remarkable destination. Wet camps include andBeyond’s Xaranna Camp, famed for its sunset champagne mokoro cruises, and its walking safaris, led by local Bushman guides who share insights into the San culture and traditions; and the newly re-opened Belmond Eagle Island Lodge, one of the region’s most luxurious, which recently-launched half-day or full-day helicopter and horseback safaris, ideal for Africa veterans looking for a truly unique way to take in the beauty of the Delta.

For a more conventional dry camp experience, Country Holidays recommends andBeyond Sandibe Okavango Safari Lodge, a magnificent safari camp set in a cool forest canopy and located on a private concession adjacent to the wildlife-rich Moremi Game Reserve; and Wilderness Safaris’ highly sought after Mombo Camp, which will emerge from a luxurious makeover in early 2017.

If you’re only in Botswana for a few days, both Wilderness Safaris’ Vumbura Plains camp, which is managed by local communities, and andBeyond Nxabega Okavango Tented Camp are great mixed camp options, offering a remote and wild game viewing experience, as well as access to the intricate network of channels and lagoons of the Delta.

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AFRICA

Madagascar A truly spectacular emerging African destination, Madagascar is the world’s fourth largest island, and one packed with adventure and unique wildlife. The island split from the Indian Peninsula 88 million years ago, allowing for an unparalleled biodiversity, 90 percent of which is endemic.

Country Holidays offers both private and Signature Departures Madagascar Air Safari itineraries on this remarkable island paradise; by using private air charters, travellers can scour the destination in as little as ten days, avoiding the delays that hamper commercial flights, or countless hours spent driving on long, bumpy roads that quickly deteriorate in the wet season.

Most travellers are drawn to Madagascar in search of lemurs and some of the island’s best lemur viewing can be found at the luxurious Anjajavy l’Hotel, a Relais & Chateaux property nestled at the heart of its own private coastal reserve. There’s also the opportunity to explore the spectacular AndasibeMantadia National Park with a local primatologist, who will offer insight into the park’s 11 lemur species, including Madagascar’s largest lemur, the indri.

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AFRICA

South Africa Still the Grand Dame of African safari destinations, South Africa has something for every traveller, from captivating game viewing to world class winelands, pristine coastline, and a vibrant culinary culture. Country Holidays ensures you see the very best this remarkable country has to offer with its 10-day itinerary capturing the essence of the Rainbow Nation, from world-class game reserves to whale watching and the eclectic communities of the Cape Peninsula.

One of the most popular components of the South Africa Ultimate Luxury tour is a visit to the acclaimed winelands of Western Cape. Start your adventure in Stellenbosch, on a private tour of the Franschhoek Motor Museum, home to vehicles, motorcycles, and bicycles dating back over 100 years, including the late billionaire Anton Rupert’s own vintage collection. Borrow one of the museum’s beautiful saloons for a tour of the family’s spectacular wine estate, including a tasting at Anthonij Rupert Wine Cellar’s Terra Del Capo tasting room. After lunch at Overture, one of South Africa’s top 10 restaurants, you’ll have the opportunity to polish your new-found ornithological insight with a chocolate and wine tasting at Waterford Estate, followed by another tasting at renowned Boschendal Estate, one of the oldest wine producers in the New World. Extend your Western Cape adventure with nights at the luxurious Delaire Graff Lodge, or head back to the Victoria & Albert waterfront to learn more about South Africa’s world-class wines from one of the city’s best sommeliers, at the One&Only Cape Town.

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AFRICA

Rwanda Perfectly suited for travellers who have already enjoyed the contemporary safari experience and are looking for the next challenge, tracking highland gorillas in East Africa’s mountainous paradise is the ultimate wildlife encounter. The Land of a Thousand Hills, a landscape of brooding volcanoes and dense primeval jungles, is home to both mountain gorilla and golden monkey communities, both of which can be seen as part of Country Holidays’ four-day private Gorilla & Golden Monkey itinerary.

Depart from the capital Kigali for Parc National des Volcans, Volcanoes National Park in northwest Rwanda, from which acclaimed zoologist Dian Fossey studied the region’s dwindling bands of mountain gorillas. You’ll track the communities with experienced guides, spending an hour with these critically endangered and often-elusive primates before returning to your accommodation for a late lunch. There’s also a chance to trek the Dian Fossey Hike to Karisoke Gorilla Research Centre, a voluntary research project, with opportunities for great bird watching and golden monkey encounters along the way.

Time your visit to Rwanda with the mid-2017 opening of Wilderness Safari’s Bisate Lodge; located in a natural amphitheater at the heart of an eroded volcanic crater and home to just six sublime ensuite rooms, the lodge is a short drive from Park Headquarters, where mountain gorilla hikes depart, and offers visits to the Iby’wacu cultural village; the twin lakes of Buhondo and Burera; and the lava tunnels of the Musanze Caves.

This unique Rwanda itinerary can also be added on to Country Holidays’ Great Migration itineraries in Tanzania.

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AFRICA

Namibia One of the most coveted African destinations for 2017, Namibia offers travellers an ever-changing landscape of desolately-beautiful coastlines, undulating dunes; and enthralling wildlife. From the more than 1,000 ship wrecks which punctuate the Skeleton Coast to the north, a region known by the Bushmen of the Namibian interior as “The Land God Made in Anger”; to the rolling seas of sand that form the Namib Desert; to the fascinating ghost towns of the Sperrgebiet diamond belt, Namibia has something for every intrepid traveller.

Namibia features on Country Holidays’ Signature Departures lineup for 2017, complete with chartered aircraft offering groups additional flexibility over the company’s private itineraries. You’ll visit some of the most beautiful and remote corners of the country, including day trips to ghost town Kolmanskop; view the Grand Sand Sea and the Skeleton Coast from the air; and explore Fish River Canyon, the largest in Africa. There will also be time to dine on the region’s best seafood at Pelican Point at Walvis Bay on your way to stays at stunning Sorris Sorris Lodge and andBeyond’s desert-wreathed Sossusvlei Desert Lodge, home to some of the best stargazing in southern Africa.

For travellers who prefer to explore at their own pace, private itineraries can include a stay at Wilderness Safaris’ Hoanib Skeleton Coast, from where you can explore the ship wrecks and seal colonies of this remarkable coastline, as well as the floodplains of the Hoanib River, and famed fishing spot Klein Oasis by 4x4, before returning to the camp by air.

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AFRICA

Ethiopia Perhaps not your first choice for an African encounter but certainly a destination that has endeared travellers for generations, Ethiopia offers a very different African encounter, with soaring highlands, a rich, complex culture, and the opportunity to step back in time to the continent’s first people.

One of the most unique experiences Country Holidays offers in Ethiopia is the traditional Coffee Ceremony, which involves processing raw, unwashed coffee beans into some of the finest Joe in the world. Watch as your hostess performs the ceremony by burning incense to ward off evil spirits before positioning a traditional jebena clay coffee pot over hot coals.

Green coffee beans are cleaned over the fire before being roasted in a wok-shaped pan, releasing a strong coffee aroma that’s essential to the ceremony. The beans are ground in a mortar called a mukecha, and the coarse grounds are then added to the now-boiling water in the jebena, before being served in handle-less ceramic cups by your hostess. Each round of strong black coffee comes with a separate bunna tetu or blessing; one for the spirits, one for the hostess, and finally one for those who drink.

If Ethiopia’s rich architecture and history is more your thing, there are also opportunities to tour with local scholars, from a professor from the Ethiopian Institute of Architecture, to a specialist in the country’s tribal and religious beliefs.

Enjoy a guided tour of the Addis Ababa Museum, where striking photo exhibitions detail the country’s often turbulent history; visit the capital’s Trinity Cathedral and Museum; delve into the vibrant Merkator Markets; explore the Menelik Palace, once the seat of power of Ethiopia’s emperors; or gaze upon ‘Lucy’, the remains of a 3.2-million-year-old humanoid, at the national museum. Finish with lunch at the Makush Art Gallery, during which notable architect Professor Fasil Giorgis will discuss Ethiopia’s traditional and contemporary architecture.

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH

THE ARCTIC’S

FINAL FRONTIER

W

hen Rear-Admiral Sir John Franklin departed Greenland in 1845, he was tasked with discovering the fabled Northwest Passage, a shortcut across the roof of North America between Europe and Asia that would herald in a new era of trade and prosperity.

Months later the navy commander, his two state-ofthe-art ships, and their crew of 129, would vanish from the face of the earth in one of the Arctic’s most captivating and intriguing mysteries. That is until now.

With the discovery in September 2014 of the first of Franklin’s ships, HMS Erebus, followed by that of HMS Terror this past September, all eyes are now on the 36,000 islands that make up the beautiful but inhospitable Canadian Arctic - through which the Northwest Passage runs - and the secrets this frozen landscape may reveal.

The Northwest Passage, which was eventually transited by Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen in 1906, is now the hottest entry on the polar explorer’s dance card. Less than 10 percent of the myriad inlets, fjords and channels that crisscross the Canadian Arctic have been charted, and despite recent transits by cruise lines, who have taken advantage of a wafer-thin ice-free summer window caused by global

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warming, it remains a perilous journey. A rich history come to life; captivating scenery and wildlife; and just a hint of potential danger has only served to make the Northwest Passage a must-attempt for avid expedition cruise fans.

A cruise through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago is a step back in time. Itineraries land at Beechey Island, a tiny islet at the southern tip of Devon Island, the largest uninhabited island in the world, where Franklin and his crew wintered in 1845-46 before disappearing. Remnants of his camp, which was not discovered until 1851, include the grave stones of crew who didn’t survive the harsh winter. There are also the remains of an abandoned Royal Canadian Mounted Police barracks at Dundas Harbour, where unlucky recruits would be marooned for two years at a time, forced to hunt and live off the land; and a chance to cruise past Zenith Point, the northernmost tip of mainland North America, and beneath the towering glaciers of Croker Bay. The Northwest Passage is also home to the Arctic’s rare and unique wildlife, from the polar bears which hunt pods of beluga whales in the fridged waters of Cunningham Inlet, to packs of Arctic wolves, mushoxen, rare bowhead whales and even narwhals, the unicorns of the sea, all of which can be encountered from expedition ship and zodiac excursions.

FIND YOUR MUSE

INTRODUCING SILVER MUSE – ARRIVING APRIL 2017 With less than 300 suites, Silver Muse will be the epitome of Silversea excellence. A small, intimate ship with uncompromised levels of service, comfort, design and accommodation, she will offer tailor-made experiences to last a lifetime. From tranquil niches and observation areas to an unprecedented spacious pool deck, our tailor-made outdoor spaces have been conceived so that time spent aboard is most definitely, time well spent.

MAGICAL MEDITERRANEAN Enjoy island hopping around Greece, experience the history of Valetta or the walled beauty of Dubrovnik prior to ending your journey in arguably the romance capital of the world; beautiful Venice. Our Mediterranean summer WPyages include: V6712, 12-nights Athens to Rome, fares from 64$ , 50pp V6713, 12-nights Rome to Venice, fares from 64$ , 50pp

ASK ABOUT OUR EARLY BOOKING BONUS TO SAVE 10% Intimate Ship Ocean-view Suites Butler Service Complimentary Beverages Menu by Relais & Châteaux Included Gratuities

For more information or to book DPOUBDU 4JMWFSTFB PS ZPVS 5SBWFM 1SPGFTTJPOBM Silversea or visit silversea.com Fares are cruise-only, quoted in U4 %PMMBST, per person, double occupancy, are correct at time of going to print and may rise as the sailing date approaches. Terms & Conditions apply, visit Silversea.com.

GEAR

PACKING

2#' ,$""1,,

For avid photographers looking to make the most of their adventure travel, packing the right photographic and optical gear can mean the difference between seeing wildlife from a distance and capturing a lasting memory.

Make the most of magical wildlife encounters with the Canon

10x42 L IS WP waterproof professional binoculars. With a 10x magnification

and ultra-low dispersion lens elements to correct chromatic aberration, these essential field glasses feature Canon’s renowned Super Spectra Coating for excellent colour and contrast, as well as a robust level 7 waterproof design for when nature doesn’t play nice.

Suited for regular wildlife seekers intent on never missing a moment, the new glasses feature the largest field-of-view in the Canon range, as well as the closest focusing distance, ensuring a captivating viewing experience, no matter the weather. US$1,049

Ideally suited for the variable focus requirements of a safari or polar cruise, the Canon

EF 200-400mm

f/4L IS USM Extender 1.4x telephoto lens features an innovative built-in 1.4x extender that can extend the focal length from 400mm to 560mm with a flip of an extender switch lever, ensuring you capture the very best from every trip. Built with variable lens elements that ensure crystal clear images, this trusty,durable lens features built-in image stabilisation up to four stops, making shooting in low light conditions easier than ever. A serious piece of kit but well worth the investment for regular adventure travellers, the fixed f4 nine-blade circular aperture offers stunning bokeh, ensuring it will be your go to lens whenever wildlife makes an appearance. US$10,999

With a newly-developed 30.4-megapixel full-frame CMOS senor, and a remarkable dynamic range, the powerful yet relatively lightweight new Canon EOS 5D Mark IV will be any avid Canon shooter’s new best friend. A high-speed DIGIC 6+ processor, coupled with a dedicated image processor for in-camera digital lens optimisation when shooting JPEGs, a first for the EOS series, ensures the EOS 5D Mark IV delivers superior speed and performance, while its high megapixel count will offer fantastic detail, especially when shooting landscapes. With an ISO range of 100-32,000 (expandable to 102,400), a high precision 61-point High Density Reticular AF II sensor, and a maximum shutter speed of seven frames per second, this polar and safari essential will ensure you’ll never miss a racing cheetah or breeching whale again. US$3,499

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SAVVY

GEAR

SUITCASES A new generation of smart cases is making it easier for travellers on the go to keep tabs on their luggage.

The new-and-improved sibling of the Bluesmart One, the project which pioneered smart case innovation (and raised US$2 million in crowdfunding in the process), the Bluesmart Black Edition weighs in at a rather hefty four kilograms but also packs plenty of techno-friendly punch. Measuring 22 x 14 x 9 inches this slick smart case is dressed in nylon and polyester with a double PR coating, making it water and scratch-resistant, and features GPS and 3G tracking capabilities, Bluetoothenabled locking, and a built-in weight sensor that works with a Bluesmart app. There’s a vital USB connection rated to charge a smartphone up to six times in one inning, as well as silent wheels and a reinforced bumper for those rough rumbles through the world’s airport concourses. www.bluesmart.com

A household name in luggage circles, Rimowa’s R&D team has gone a different way. Rather than creating spycraft tracking and charging, the German brand has maintained its iconic corrugated metal look, adding to its newest cases an

Electronic Tag, which mimics the plastic and paper tags airline check-in staff collar your bags with. Using a built-in E Ink Mobius display, travellers beam the flight info from their phone directly to the case, which then displays the luggage tag on the screen, complete with all necessary barcodes and acronyms. The screen is water, heat, shock and tear-resistant, ensuring that luggage handlers will always know where your case is supposed to be heading. www.rimowa.com

Packed with a variety of smart functions, the Space Case 1 by Planet Traveler promises a carefree journey. Its biometric scanner enables you to unlock the case with the touch of a finger, while its global tracker makes sure you know where your luggage is at all times. Available in two sizes, the Space Case 1 features a digital scale, three USB charging ports, and a Bluetooth speakerphone.

There’s also a built-in garment bag to keep suits and shirts wrinkle-free. The case comes in an assortment of colours and patterns, from stealth black to polished pink. www.planettravelerusa.com

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ON THE RAILS

NEW ERA

FOR SLOW TRAVEL

Just when you thought slow travel had been overtaken by the jet age, a series of luxurious new trains is set to seduce slow travel lovers like never before. Here’s our take on the world’s most remarkable rail journeys. By Nick Walton

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The Rocky Mountaineer is an icon of the Canadian Rockies, and one which has spent the past 18 years taking travellers into the depths of some of North America’s most stunning scenery. The all-daylight travel of the two-day itinerary means you don’t miss a single snow-capped mountain peak or mirror-like lake, and the train’s Gold Leaf service, which includes domed cabins and gourmet dining, offers a train experience like no other. The Rocky Mountaineer follows three routes: Kicking Horse, the track for which was laid out 100 years ago; Yellowhead; and Fraser Discovery, as it journeys from Vancouver to Whistler, Jasper and Calgary.

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ON THE RAILS

The newly launched Belmond Grand Hibernian, the first luxury overnight train to grace Ireland’s rails in a generation, offers an indulgent way to explore the Emerald Isle. With a distinctly contemporary take on Dublin’s iconic Georgian architecture, the train’s 20 sumptuous cabins cater to just 40 guests; each boasts wardrobes, writing desks, private ensuites and picture windows through which train lovers can enjoy the ever-changing vista. On two-, four- and six-night journeys – including the seven-day Grand Tour of Ireland – you’ll have a chance to delve into the true Ireland, from whiskey tastings at the Jameson distiller to learning the art of falconry at Ashford Castle. You’ll also eat well thanks to two elegant dining rooms that serve contemporary Irish cuisine, with ingredients sourced from local producers along the route.

Asia’s most beautiful rail journey, the Eastern & Oriental Express runs between Singapore and Bangkok on two-night three-day itineraries that capture the history and beauty of destinations like Ipoh, Penang and Kanchanaburi. Between daily excursions to temples, historic railway stations, and WWII sites, guests can relax in the comfort of their beautifully-appointed colonial-esque ensuite cabins; soak in lush southeast Asian countryside from the open air Observation Car; or sing the night away in the lively bar car, home to a resident pianist and Asianinspired cocktails.

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ON THE RAILS

Traversing the Atlantic coast of Spain, a fertile region known as España Verde, the El Transcantabrico offers a showcase of Green Spain and its vibrant hinterland using beautifully preserved railway carriages, some dating from 1923. All cabins feature high quality linens, hardwood paneling, picture windows, and spacious bathrooms; for a real indulgence opt for space and luxury with a Gran Lujo Deluxe suite, which boasts a private lounge, steam shower and hydro-sauna.

Travelling from Galicia to the Bay of Biscay via San Sebastián, the El Transcantabrico opens up one of Spain’s most important centres of gastronomy, with opportunities for guests to visit local restaurants, wineries, and artisanal producers along the way.

The Royal Scotsman is as intimate a train journey as you can find, catering to just 36 lucky souls. Between daily excursions to castles, distilleries and hamlets, guests can view the passing lochs and towering peaks from the comfort of their private cabin or from the popular Edwardian observation car. Each night, gourmet meals are served in a candle-lit dining room, followed by whisky tastings and story-telling. Alternate formal nights are a chance to dress up and celebrate and with the train stabled at night, guests are guaranteed a good night’s rest. The train offers a range of itineraries to Scotland’s west, north and highlands, including a seven-night Grand Tour.

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ON THE RAILS For a rail journey that’s far from the beaten path, explore Central Asia’s ancient trading legacy aboard The Orient Silk Road Express, which takes a grand loop from the Uzbek capital Tashkent to Bukhara, Kiva and Samarkand over 10 nights. The Russian-owned train is dressed in traditional Uzbek oriental patterns and offers an elegant, timeless way to explore these emerging destinations. Visit Tashkent’s Khast Imam Square, home to the Tillya Sheykh Mosque and Kafal Shashi mausoleum, before delving into the Chimgan Mountains by road, bound for Lake Charvak. The train then whisks travellers south to the Unesco-listed green city of Shakhrisabz and on to the Kyzyl Kum desert, where Bukhara’s old city was a legendary weigh station for caravans hauling spices, furs and silks.

There’s time to explore the summer residence of the last Emir, and visit the magnificent Miree-Arab Madrasah before journeying on to the oasis of Khiva, famed for its countless mosques, minarets and madrasas. Be sure to add on private tours in Ashgabat in Turkmenistan and the ancient trading city of Almaty in Kazakhstan.

South America is presently one of the most sought after destinations by affluent travellers, and May’s launch of the continent’s first luxury sleeper train, the Belmond Andean Explorer, will make it even easier to explore the region’s stunning landscapes in style. Catering to just 68 guests in sumptuous en-suite cabins, the new train will travel along one of the highest rail routes on earth, traversing the Peruvian Andes from Cusco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa on four one- and two-night journeys.

Along the way travellers will take in breathtaking scenery amidst interiors by Inge Moore of The Gallery HBA that take their inspiration from Peru’s hand-woven textile culture, with touches of alpaca wool and Andean slate. After daily excursions to the Colca Canyon and Unesco-listed Arequipa, spoil your taste buds with seasonal menus created by the chefs at Belmond Hotel Monasterio, served in two elegant dining cars.

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ON THE RAILS

If you’ve done the luxury-safari thing but haven’t yet sated your passion for Africa, Rovos Rail’s two beautifully rebuilt trains each cater to a maximum of 72 guests and travel far and wide across Southern Africa. Treat yourself to one of the wood-panelled Edwardianstyled Royal Suites, complete with king-size bed, ensuite with Victorian bath and separate shower, and complimentary minibar. An African epic, the 15-day journey between Cape Town and Dar es Salaam traverses South Africa, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Tanzania, with time along the way for Big Five viewing at the Madikwe Game Reserve, nights at the Victoria Falls Hotel, and hikes through the Great Rift Valley. In between stops, drink in Africa’s ancient vistas from a leather wing-back chair in the train’s lavish lounge, dine on locally sourced produce in the elegant dining car, or sip sundowners in the open-air Observation Car.

In one of the most anticipated developments in Asian luxury rail, Japan’s JR East and JR West rail companies will launch two new luxury trains this year. The Twilight Express Mizukaze, commencing operations in spring, will depart Kyoto, Osaka and Shimonoseki stations to explore unspoiled and rarely visited western Japan, with visits to Matsue, Izumo and Miyajima, and opportunities to take in the natural beauty of the Sea of Japan, Mt. Daisen, and the Seto Inland Sea islands. With Art Deco lines and the amenities of a five star hotel, the train will cater to just 30 passengers across six sleeper carriages. Each day gourmet meals by acclaimed Japanese chefs Yoshihiro Murata and Hajime Yoneda will showcase the best of washoku (Japanese cuisine) using locally-sourced ingredients.

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ON THE RAILS

Australia’s most famous rail journey, The Ghan runs between Adelaide in South Australia, and Darwin in the Northern Territories.

Originally known as the Afghan Express for the camel caravans that once crossed the Outback, the 2,979km three-day two-night itinerary exposes travellers to a true cross-section of Aussie landscapes, from the lush Barossa Valley to the burnt-orange beauty of the Flinders Ranges and the infinite emptiness of the Outback. The Ghan’s all-inclusive Platinum Service backs up the captivating landscapes with plenty of luxurious touches, including spacious cabins that convert into double bedrooms featuring full-size ensuites, leisurely in-cabin breakfasts, and access to a dedicated lounge and restaurant, where gourmet meals feature unique Outback ingredients and are matched with local wines. Make the most of your journey by adding a private tour with a WWII specialist in Darwin or nights at iconic wilderness lodge, Longitude 131°.

The Trans-Siberian is a must for any intrepid traveller’s bucket list, but you don’t have to do it without creature comforts. The luxurious Golden Eagle features 12 ensuite sleeper cars in three categories; live like a Tsar in one of the train’s Imperial Suites, home to a double bed, complimentary minibar, large picture windows and 24-hour butler service. Sip Dom Pérignon as you depart Moscow’s Kazansky Station bound for Vladivostok, 9,288km to the east, on a 15-day itinerary that winds its way through Kazan and Novosibirsk; along the banks of Baikal, the world’s largest freshwater lake; and across the Siberian steppes, a landscape best enjoyed from the Golden Eagle’s two regal restaurant cars, where authentic Russian cuisine is complemented by international wines and, of course, plenty of locally-sourced vodka. Be sure to add on pre- and posttours to beautiful St Petersburg, Russia’s cultural capital, or escape to the heart of the Gobi desert for an unforgettable glamping encounter.

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Recently awarded best train in the world for the fifth year in a row, The Maharajas’ Express is the most regal and refined of India’s many luxury train journeys. With insightful itineraries between Delhi and Mumbai and roundtrip from Delhi through Rajasthan, the 19-car train captures the beauty and colour of India, with daily guided excursions and behind-the-scenes encounters at timeless temples, ancient forts, and sumptuous palaces. The seven-day Panorama Journey is a captivating week-long epic through some of Northern India’s most beautiful landscapes and most historic trading and religious cities, and includes a private dinner hosted in the confines of the Gwalior Palace, an evening cruise on the Ganges, and opportunities to buy gems from local artisans. Return to a royal welcome, complete with white gloved service, insightful regional cuisine by acclaimed chef John Stone, 24-hour butler service, and breathtaking vistas from the lavishly-appointed dining and lounge cars. Delve deeper into Rajasthan’s heritage with private guided tours and stays at some of the region’s acclaimed palace hotels after your train epic.

Also launching in May, the Train Suite Shiki-Shima will operate from Tokyo’s Ueno station and will explore the northeastern region of Tohoku and into Hokkaido. With an itinerary that includes the Nikko Toshogu Shrine in Tochigi Prefecture and the ShirakamiSanchi mountains, the ShikiShima will offer guests the chance to leave the train and delve into the surrounding countryside on daily excursions. A maximum of 34 guests will stay in 17 lavish staterooms dressed in Japanese cypress and custom furniture.

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ON THE RAILS

Of course you can’t talk about high-end rail travel in Japan without mentioning the sumptuous US$34 million Seven Stars. A self-styled “cruise train”, Seven Stars offers a distinctly luxurious if still rather speedy approach to exploring the island of Kyushu. Catering to just 30 guests in 14 beautifully-appointed suites lined with indigenous wood, the Seven Stars is the original Japanese Orient Express, showcasing the very best in local craftsmanship and gastronomy, as well as the less-visited volcanic landscapes of the nation’s third largest island. With departures from Fukuoka, spend your days in search of rice terraces, natural hot-spring ryokans, ornamental tea houses and volcanic peaks, or soak in the beauty of the island landscapes from the intimacy of the Blue Moon lounge or the Jupiter Dining Car, home to delicate Kyushu cuisine. Like other JR Rail trains, reservation is upon application.

A modern incarnation of Europe’s Grand Dame on rails, Belmond’s Venice-Simplon Orient-Express continues the luxury train tradition to perfection, travelling on two-day one-night itineraries between Rome and Calais (with an extension to London on the British Pullman and seasonal routes all the way to Istanbul and Scandinavia). Made up of reconditioned carriages that once hosted the German surrender at the end of WWI and later the French surrender to the Nazis, today’s VeniceSimplon Orient-Express boasts lavish Pullman-style cabins that feature large picture windows, and walnut paneling. After an intimate in-cabin Fortnum & Mason afternoon tea, and sumptuous fine dining in the restaurant car, return to a luxurious turndown service by your dedicated cabin steward that includes signature VSOE pajamas.

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JAPAN

IN ANCIENT

FOOTSTEPS

TO DELVE INTO THE DEEP FORESTS AND MOUNTAIN PASSES OF JAPAN’S ANCIENT PILGRIMAGE TRAILS IS TO STEP BACK IN TIME TO AN ERA OF SAMURAI, UNTOUCHED LANDSCAPES, AND TRADITIONAL JAPANESE HOSPITALITY. BY ISABELLE LUI.

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O

nce a vital 17th century pilgrim’s trail between the imperial capital of Kyoto and the Edo-era capital of Tokyo, the 500km Nakasendo Way, or “the road through the mountains”, offers avid hikers a chance to step back in time as it winds through traditional shukuba ‘post’ towns – weigh stations for weary walkers – where beautifully-preserved medieval homes line a route that once defined ancient Japan. Two new Nakasendo walking itineraries capture the beauty and rich heritage of Honshu’s remote mountain regions, including communities little changed since they first welcomed pilgrims passing between ancient capitals.

Ideal for time-strapped travellers, the one-day Magome to Tsumago private itinerary begins with a short train journey from Matsumoto in Chūbu to Nakatsugawa, from where one of the best portions of the ancient Nakasendo Way walking route begins. At the heart of the Kiso Valley, the post town of Magome was the birth place of Shimazaki Toson, Japan’s first modern novelist. Beautifully preserved with broad stone walkways, manicured gardens and authentic timber architecture, Magome is a contrast to the rugged beauty of nearby Tsumago, where residents pride themselves on living a life free of modern conveniences, including electricity. The 8km trail between these two villages is well maintained and meanders through bucolic countryside before passing the twin waterfalls of Otaki and Metaki (the man and the woman) and the ruins of Ichikokutochishirakiatame Bansho-ato, an Edo-era castle. After touring Tsumago, famed for it’s authentic, Honjin, guest houses for the elite, and Wakihonjin, guest houses for commoners, head to Nakatsugawa station for a train to Nagoya, and a relaxing night at the newlyopened Mitsui Garden Hotel Nagoya Premium hotel.

For travellers looking to delve a little deeper into this remarkable landscape, the four-day guided journey through Kiso Valley departs Ena city in Gifu Prefecture, bound for Narai. Capturing the heart of The Nakasendo Way, this 39km hiking adventure starts at Nakatsugawa (just outside Ena), at the Hiroshige Print Museum, from which a 6km trail climbs to the historic Magome Pass before entering magnificent Kiso Valley. Experience traditional Japanese hospitality at Shinchaya Inn, a tea house turned minshuku or traditional family-run inn, located just outside Magome.

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JAPAN

From the inn, you’ll have a chance to explore Magome on day two, while also passing the Otaki and Metaki Falls on your 10km hike to Tsumago village, famed for its 400-year old traditional architecture. Arguably the most beautiful of the route’s post villages, Tsumago prides itself on its untouched aesthetics; the town has banned power poles, power lines, and even vending machines in an attempt to maintain its authenticity. Finish the day’s walking at Iwaya Inn, where you can visit the onsen thermal baths for an indulgent full-body rejuvenation and detox experience.

At the beginning of the third day, you’ll kick off with a visit to a reconstructed barrier station before being transferred to an ancient 12km trail head that leads over the towering Jizo Pass, climbing through dense forest to 1,355m before decending down onto Kaida Plateau, a captivating landscape dominated by active volcano Mt Ontake, a sacred Buddhist site. After lunch, you will again ascend to capture stunning panoramas of the plateau before descending to the alpine resort of KaidaKogen and your hotel, Yamaka-no-yu.

Finish your Nakasendo Way adventure in Yabuhara with an 11km hike that climbs Torii Toge pass, named for the shinto torii, or gate, that marks one of four protective sites surrounding sacred Mt Ontake. At 1,197 metres, the Torii Pass is also the second highest point on the itinerary, with hikers emerging at the outskirts of Narai, the half-way point between Kyoto and Tokyo and one of the route’s most famous post towns. Narai, one of Japan’s Nationally Designated Architectural Preservation Sites, has sought to maintain its Edo-era architecture and hospitality, making it one of the most popular stops along the greater route. After lunch and a short coach transfer you’ll be able to soak those aching legs in the steaming mineral baths of Myojinkan Ryokan, the perfect conclusion to any Nakasendo encounter.

(clockwise from top) Nachi Falls; an ancient Nakasendo path; the post town of Magome.

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(clockwise from top left) Ise Shrine; a traditional Amagoya shellfish diver; the spa at Amanemu; Seiganto-ji; gourmet dining.

Selected photo credit: Aman

Walk the Ancient Kumano Kodō Trail An alternative to the Nakasendo Way is the ancient Kumano Kodō, a series of medieval pilgrimage routes across Kii Hantō, the largest peninsula in Japan, linking the sacred Kumano Sanzan, the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano.

Capture the timeless essence of this UNESCO listed trail during the a six-day Kumano Kodo Trail itinerary. After arriving in Osaka, guests drive to Mt Koya, a lush, forest covered peak at the centre of Shingon Buddhism. Here guests stay in a traditional temple lodge, just as the pilgrims of the old did (though with a few additional creature comforts), and join in the morning’s prayer rituals with local monks as they recite Rishu Kyo sutras.

The ritual is a spiritual way to begin the hike through cedar woods, past the 500-year-old Nonagase Cemetery and fresh mountain springs, and through the picturesque hamlet of Chikatsuyu as nobles, holy men and commoners did for centuries. Along the 5km component of the trail hikers will encounter ancient forests, tranquil glades, and flowing waterfalls – there’s even a chance to visit the acclaimed Nakaheci Art Museum – before the short drive to Kawayu Onsen.

The next morning walkers depart from Hosshinmon Gate, the ‘gate of awakening of the aspiration to enlightenment’, which leads to one of the Kumano Trail’s most sacred precincts, famed for the turning of its autumn leaves. This gentle downhill hike follows the beautiful Unesco-listed Kumano River, once an aquatic highway for the faithful. After passing through the largest torii gate in Japan, guests conclude their walk at the Kumano Hongū Taisha, a grand Shinto shrine dating from 1891.

The itinerary isn’t all just adventure on two feet; hikers can cool their heels with a standing white water rafting experience aboard a traditional log flume down the Kitayama River, offering the trail-weary one of the most unusual river activities on the planet as well as access to postcard-perfect scenery.

After lunch depart again from the foot of the 133-metre high Nachi Falls, one of the country’s highest. After hiking to the top, travellers will visit the bright red Kumano Nachi Grand Shrine and the beautiful and tranquil Seigantoji Temple, passing an 850-year-old camphor tree said to have been planted by clan warrior Taira no Shiemori, before driving to the coastal town of Nachikatsuura.

The final day begins at the Ise Grand Shrine, dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu. Regarded as a National Treasure, it is believed that during the Edo period one in every ten Japanese conducted an Okage MaiRi pilgrimage to the shrine. An indulgent way to conclude the adventure, guests then check in at the luxurious Amanemu Resort in time for a farewell dinner.

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EXPLORER

FRAMING THE WORLD

We speak with acclaimed HongKong-based photographer Bobby Lee, host of Country Holidays’ Global Exposures photography itineraries, about composition, storytelling, and capturing the most inspiring travel images.

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EXPLORER

where does your passion for photography stem from?

I liked reading out dated (too expensive to buy latest issues) magazines when I was in my first year of secondary school, and was excited by the images taken by Life and National Geographic magazine photographers. By the time I finished secondary school I was determined to become a professional photographer and have never looked back.

Why does street photography and portraits particularly fascinate you?

I love photography - landscape, portraits, and travel - all kinds. Travel photography, and particularly travel portraits, broadens my eye as I learn from different cultures. You may appreciate Mother Nature in a certain landscape or rock formation but it’s always people that bring a destination’s character to life.

What are the biggest challenges in travel photography?

The biggest challenge for any travelling photographer is blending in to the place one visits. Once you get accepted by the locals, you will find doors open for you. Blending in does not mean you have to know the local dialogue or language, although it helps, but showing sincerity and kindness works best in most cases.

Which destinations do you find most inspirational?

Iran and Cuba are two countries that I like visiting from time to time. Iran for its history, culture and hospitality; and Cuba for its ambience, which just has you with your finger always on the shutter button. India is also a great destination for budding travel photographers.

Your photographs are full of stories; how do you add meaning to them?

Photo Credit: Bobby Lee

A camera is a tool to start a conversation with people you meet on the road. I like communicating with my subject in

contrast to some theories which prescribe ‘shoot and run’.

It’s the stories from our subjects that make our images lively.

How can amateurs improve their travel photography composition?

Sharing an image is like telling a story; there are many components within the narrative. Some are key points, while others link to put the story together. It’s similar to punctuation in writing, or like geometry; within a frame artists try their best to fit in various components to make the image balanced. This image may be a beautifully balanced image but not necessarily an image that can tell a story. What I encourage photographers to practise during our workshops is to arrange these components into orders and positions that each help to lead the audience to ‘read’ the story embedded in the image. I call this ‘arrangement’.

To practise the skill of arrangement, photographers must spend more time in museums and galleries appreciating master pieces from great artists. Joining my workshops of course is another way to learn this skill, as I always teach my participants the way to appreciate great art.

What will we learn during your Global Exposures tours?

I believe when creating Global Exposures there are no two participants alike. Although the travel itinerary is the same with all participants within the same trip, I pay particular attention in helping each individual photographer develop and refine his or her personal photographic style, based on my 40 years of experience. Besides personal advice and group critics during the trip, proper postproduction workflow and presentation techniques occupy the evening hours at the hotel. Lessons start the moment our participants sign up and we extend our participants’ experience with additional events covering the printing of thier selected images, usually a few weeks after returning from the destination.

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FOOD TRAILS

OF FISH & VIKINGS

In many countries, getting to know the local food scene is a great way to delve into the local culture, and in Iceland, fish rules supreme, discovers Laure Latham.

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FOOD TRAILS

T

he Land of Fire and Ice may be famous for its incredible, and often turbulent, natural landscapes, but as an island with 8,500km of coastline, it also offers some amazing seafood experiences. Settled by Vikings and Scandinavians in the Middle Ages, Iceland was ill suited for agriculture because of its cold climate and volcanic soil, hence its long tradition of fish as a food staple and trading good.

Your fish adventure can continue in the geothermal fields surrounding Lake Mývatn, home to two of the island’s most iconic species, the wild brown trout (urriði) and the arctic char (bleikja). Cold-smoked over Icelandic wild herbs, arctic char or brown trout pair beautifully with local dark bread called geysir, a rye bread baked in buried aluminium pots.

In Iceland’s Westfjords, the region’s rich maritime heritage can be seen in the fish drying huts which litter the coast and visitors can join deep sea fishing expeditions, tour former whaling stations and even check into a herring factory turned hotel. The Westfjords is also home to Ísafjörður, one of Iceland’s best seafood restaurants where fresh cod, monkfish, herring, haddock and halibut always grace the menu.

In the south coast town of Höfn, near the popular Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon, feast on fresh lobster (humar) while overlooking the lobster fishing fleet in the harbour. As the locals here say, “half of our country is the sea”, and no journey through this unique landscape is complete without a few fishy finds.

Another Icelandic staple is herring. In her 1932 book 150 fiskréttir (150 fish dishes), author Helga Sigurðardóttir For centuries salted fish was exchanged for foreign products suggested all homes should acquire at least a barrel of brought by ship by cod trading communities in Norway and salted herring each winter. Herring fishing had a deep today, fishing represents 27 percent of the island nation’s impact on the Eastfjords, where a huge herring boom GDP with haddock, halibut, salmon, redfish and saithe brought in wealth during the 1950s. Today restaurants featuring on menus across the land. Cod, the traditional around Egilsstaðir serve pickled herring or herring dried fish stock exported to Christian communities across the rolls as popular appetizers, while the intrepid visiting world, remains the Icelandic fish with cod cheeks, cod liver oil Eskifjörður can even try Iceland’s national dish, hákarl, and harðfiskur, dried fish jerky, considered delicacies. putrescent shark meat.

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Rhino Whisperer

HERO

The

A lifelong advocate for rhino preservation and sustainable tourism, andBeyond conservation manager Les Carlisle has helped spearhead some of Southern Africa’s most important conservation initiatives, and believes safari goers could be the key to saving some of the continent’s most important species. By Nick

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Walton.

HERO

What role does tourism play in your conservation efforts in Southern Africa?

Without an endless pool of resources to draw from, and with the world’s wilderness areas dwindling, sustainability is key to ensuring the survival of the world’s endangered wildlife areas and their inhabitants. Therefore, not only does it make good business sense but it is fundamental to andBeyond’s core values. The company’s pioneering model of low-impact, high-yield wildlife tourism is founded on the premise that conservation can be sustained through sound business principles and sustainability is an essential tool in achieving this goal.

Your first project with andBeyond was the Phinda Private Game Reserve; what lessons did you learn from that project? andBeyond was launched in 1990 with the purchase of 13,000 hectares of degraded farmland near the coast of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province. Named Phinda after the Zulu word for “the return”, today this protected area has grown to 23,000 hectares and is andBeyond’s flagship game reserve and a testing ground for many of the pioneering working models of the company, from being the first in South Africa to relocate an adult elephant herd to private ground, to the safe reintroduction of both lions and cheetah on the same reserve. Equally significantly, andBeyond Phinda was the first Big Five private game reserve to be established in KwaZulu-Natal, demonstrating for the first time that dedicating land to wildlife had the potential to produce better returns than cattle farming in marginal rainfall areas.

What’s the most fundamental crisis facing Africa in terms of wildlife conservation?

Currently there is no doubt that the African species that is most vulnerable to extinction is the rhino. Rhinos are not only an iconic species, but also an indicator of the health of the whole system. If we lose our rhino, we believe that many other species may follow. We are focusing on saving rhinos as a call to action to protect the entire system and all the wildlife of Africa.

You’ve taken your proven methods to India. What projects are you working on?

In Africa, we have successfully recreated conservation areas using the translocation of wildlife as the core action. In India a local extinction had never been successfully reversed by means of translocation until 2011, when andBeyond assisted Indian conservation authorities in translocating 19 gaur (Indian bison) to Bandhavgarh National Park. A prime example of international cooperation, this laid the foundation for further specialised wildlife relocations in the central state of Madhya Pradesh. Conservation authorities in India have now gained the skills necessary to carry out subsequent translocations of other species.

Rhinos are particularly close to your heart and your Rhinos Without Borders has been instrumental in saving threatened populations. How can we combat the international rhino horn trade?

The first and best way to support rhino conservation is to travel to Africa to see rhino in the wild. That way you make them valuable. To ensure that rhino do not face extinction we need to make them worth more when they are alive than when they are dead. The second way is to support rhino conservation causes like the Rhinos Without Borders project with hard cash. Anyone wanting to find out more or to donate can do so on www.rhinoswithoutborders.com. For those who want a more hands-on experience of conservation, andBeyond also offers guests participation safaris where they can participate in rhino notching.

How can we be better travellers from a conservation standpoint?

Sustainable travel does not mean scaling back on comfort or enjoyment. Instead, it’s about choosing to travel with a company like andBeyond, which gives back in a positive way through a commitment to sustainability and conservation.

Sharing the same passion for preserving Africa’s land and wildlife, Country Holidays will support the Rhinos Without Borders initiative by raising US$50,000, enough to cover the entire cost of the relocation of one rhino. To date, Country Holidays has raised US$22,000 in 2016 to support the ongoing efforts of Rhinos Without Borders. To join the fight, donate at www.rhinoswithoutborders.com

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CULTURE CREATURE

HAIL TO THE

HEADHUNTERS

People are not entirely sure when the Naga tribe, traditionally located in the highlands which straddle the border between Myanmar and India, put aside their headhunting traditions. Some say it was in the late 1960s. Other stories say it was closer to the 1990s. Until the influence of the British arrived, fearsome feuds between tribes and clans could last generations, often with tragic consequences. Fortunately, today’s intrepid traveller can visit the Naga tribal lands without fear of losing their heads, and instead be granted a cultural immersion unlike any other, especially during the tribe’s annual New Year’s celebrations, held each January. During this unique festival Nagaland, the traditional lands of the Naga people, usually accessed by air or via the winding Chindwin River, opens to outsiders, as the tribes make peace and celebrate their traditions in a brilliantly-colourful display of culture, dance, mythology and ceremony witnessed by only a clutch of travellers.

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JOURNEY WEAVER

ON THE ROAD

We talk with Andy Chan, one of Country Holidays’ experienced travel specialists, about his favourite foodie destinations, his fascination with volcanoes, and his ultimate Arctic adventures.

Where’s home?

For me, home is a state of mind. However, currently I’m residing in Singapore.

If you could only travel to one more place in your lifetime you’d be headed to…

What are five things we’ll find in your carry on?

This is a really tough one. It would be a toss-up between Kamchatka for volcanoes and brown bears; even more volcanoes in Vanuatu; or sailing the fabled Northwest Passage in the hope of sighting the Kings of the Arctic, polar bears; the mythical unicorns of the sea, narwhals; and visiting remote Arctic communities.

Passport; Kobo Glo e-Reader; Tiger Balm; toilet paper (or a hoard of leftover napkins from fast-food restaurants); breath mints.

It’s happy hour in your favourite city, where are you headed?

Where did you last travel?

Central Asia – trekking in Western Tajikistan, then traversing the legendary Pamir Highway from Khorog to Osh.

Who was the last person to inspire you?

Does Tintin count as a ‘person’? I’ve been following his adventures since I was six and made up my mind to be like the intrepid explorer that he is one day. Prisoners of the Sun was the first volume in the comic series I ever laid my hands on, and I dreamt about the Land of the Incas until I finally found my way to Peru in April 2011 after a sixmonth sojourn around South America.

Isn’t happy hour around dinner time? You might just find me wolfing down a steaming pho dac biet in Manhattan’s Chinatown; getting my hands deliciously dirty with injera and doro wot at UWS; stuffing my face with gyros and souvlaki in Astoria; ceviche and chicha morada at Jackson Heights; liang pi in Flushing; or sneaking in a pre-dinner pastry at Patisserie Tomoko in Williamsburg. NYC is an amazing global food city!

How do we become better travellers?

I’m a believer that respect and appreciation for local cultures, customs and traditions are of paramount importance. I would always ask for permission before taking a photo of someone, and endeavor to learn a bit of the local language.

What’s your biggest travel frustration?

Dishonest taxi drivers!!!

Where are you headed next?

I’m quite a spontaneous traveller and usually travel within a week or two’s notice so I’m really quite undecided now.

However, it will likely be Vanuatu for the volcano-to-volcano trek in Ambrym. I’ve been really drawn to volcanoes, having lived in Hawai’i, and having stared into the hypnotic, glowing-red lava lake of Nyiragongo in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Alternatively, some hiking in the Soca Valley and the Julian Alps in western Slovenia wouldn’t go a miss.

Connect with Andy at andy@countryholidays.com.sg

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