ISSUE 2, AUG 2017
JAPAN
A COUNTRY HOLIDAYS MAGAZINE
JOURNEY WEAVER - A COUNTRY HOLIDAYS MAGAZINE ISSUE 2 2017
8 FACES OF LATIN AMERICA PAPUA NEW GUINEA
ETHIOPIA
FILMMAKER BRAD BESTELINK
JETLAG TECH
Dear Globetrotters,
T
hank you all for your support of our launch issue of Journey Weaver. We were heartened to receive such an enthusiastic response to the first issue of our very own Country
Holidays magazine, and it was a great pleasure to share travel tales from the far-flung corners of the earth with our loyal customers.
A coUnTry holDAys mAGAzine
PUBLISHER
Chang Theng Hwee MANAGING EDITOR
South America may be the furthest continent from our homes in Asia, but for our extremely well-travelled guests, Machu Picchu or Iguazu Falls no longer hold the excitement they once did. Fortunately, South America offers far more than meets the eye and in this second issue of Journey Weaver we delve into the region like never before, unveiling exciting new destinations and a host of brilliant new experiences on offer from Peru all the way down to Patagonia.
Nick Walton
nickwalton@artemiscomms.com EDITORIAL COORDINATOR
Isabelle Lui CHIEF SUB EDITOR
Philippa Walton
With the winter in the northern hemisphere just around the corner, it’s also time for Aurora Borealis spotting. In this issue, we explore the very best places to view the Northern Lights, from Finland to Iceland to Alaska, and discover some of the more interesting activities on offer under Mother Nature’s most captivating light show.
ART DIRECTOR
Don Pierre Riosa MARKETING AND ADVERTISING
Everyone knows about the colourful autumn foliage of Northeast Canada, but there is so much more to Canada during this wonderful time of year. Fall is actually the best season to see both grizzly and polar bears – imagine
Carmen Ng
carmen.ng@countryholidays.com.hk
that as the ultimate vacation, close encounters with bears by day, and gazing at the Northern Lights by night! Of course, we have so much more in this issue of Journey Weaver, from traditional sing-sing gatherings in the highlands of Papua New Guinea, to ancient kingdoms and modern marvels in Oman, authentic ryokan escapes in Japan, interviews with intrepid African film makers and award-winning Arctic photographers, and the best dining trails in San Sebastian. There really is something for every traveller in Journey Weaver, a Country Holidays magazine.
Journey Weaver is owned and published by Country Holidays, 04-20/21 Tanglin Shopping Centre, 19 Tanglin Road, Singapore 247909 www.countryholidays.com.sg Find even more travel inspiration at www.journeyweavermag.com
Enjoy!
Chang Theng Hwee
CONTRIBUTORS Journey Weaver is produced by boutique custom publishing agency Artemis Communications Ltd. www.artemiscomms.com
Ocean Malandra
is a widely published journalist and travel writer who has spent most of the last decade living in Latin America. A member of the South American Explorer’s Club and the Cusco Writer’s Guild, his work has appeared in USA Today Travel, International Living Magazine, Vice Munchies, Paste Travel, 7x7 Magazine and more. He also writes a regular environmental column for Paste Magazine.
Matt Flemming is a Canadian freelance writer specialising in travel, food and sports. His favourite assignments have seen him follow the Silk Road in Uzbekistan, play with lemurs in Madagascar and journey into the rainforests of Panama’s Darien Province. In this issue, Matt explores how San Sebastian in Spain’s Basque Country became an international culinary destination.
Anna Selby has
been a journalist for over 20 years, specialising in travel for almost 15 of them. She is the author of over 30 books and has written for all of the UK’s broadsheets as well as many magazines. She has travelled all over the world from Tierra del Fuego to Iceland and from Botswana to Kazakhstan. She reserves a special place in her heart for the islands of Polynesia where she lived with her young son.
Jamie Carter is
a freelance science, technology and travel journalist and author who writes for TechRadar.com, the South China Morning Post, BBC Sky at Night and Travel + Leisure.
Sandra Macgregot is a
Canadian writer and editor who specializes in travel, wine, food and finance. Her work has appeared in publications like the New York Times, the UK Telegraph, the Washington Post, Forbes.com and the Toronto Star.
All rights reserved: Copyright and distribution rights are reserved exclusively by Artemis Communications Ltd, its partners, associates and affiliates. All materials published remain the property of the production agency. No part of this publication may be reproduced without prior written permission. All information contained in this publication is from a reliable source. Artemis Communications Ltd and Country Holidays do not make any guarantees as to the accuracy of the information contained.
PERKS & PRIVILEGES
TIME TO
TRAVEL SMARTER Leave your travel bookings to Country Holidays to enjoy a host of exclusive discounts and complimentary amenities.
Nights & Transfers at Anantara Golden Triangle
Enjoy three night’s accommodation when you book two at Chiang Rai’s Anantara Golden Triangle Explorer with Country Holidays and enjoy complimentary one-way airport transfers. Book before September 30, 2017 for travel before October 31, 2017.
Free Night at Victoria Falls Hotel Book six nights or more at Wilderness Safaris’ properties in Zambia or Zimbabwe to receive one complimentary night at the iconic and historic Victoria Falls Hotel. Book and travel before October 31, 2017.
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JOURNEY WEAVER
PERKS & PRIVILEGES
Enjoy the Green Season with Wilderness Safaris
Book six nights with Wilderness Safaris’ camps in Botswana, including Abu Camp and Chitabe Lediba Camp in the Okavango Delta; Kalahari Plains Camp in the Central Kalahari; and Kings Pool Camp in Linyanti, and enjoy one night on the house. For travel between January 11-April 30, 2018.
Great Savings in the Maldives
Enjoy great savings when you book nights at luxury resorts in the Maldives. Save 25 percent on bookings at Anantara’s three Maldives properties - Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas, Anantara Dhigu Maldives Resort, and Anantara Veli Maldives Resort - when you book before December 27, 2017 and receive a complimentary upgrade to the full board dining plan, available at Veli until October 31 and at Kihavah and Dhigu until December 27. Pay three nights and stay four at Six Senses Laamu, with travel until December 21, 2017; and at Maalifushi & Cocoa Island by COMO from October 1 to December 25, 2017.
Enjoy Complimentary Activities at Amanjiwo
Book three nights at the luxurious Amanjiwo in Java with Country Holidays to enjoy daily breakfast, airport transfers, and four complimentary Amanjiwo Cultural Trails activities - from tours of Borobudur, local villages, local art galleries and morning markets, to sunset cocktails, authentic Javanese meals, meditation sessions at the Mendut Temple and mountain biking – per person. Valid until March 31, 2019.
Exotic Vacations with Oberoi
Book six nights or more in selected Oberoi hotels, including The Oberoi Amarvilas, Agra; Wildflower Hall, Shimla; The Oberoi Vanyavilas, Ranthambore; and The Oberoi Rajvilas, Jaipur to enjoy special rates. Valid until April 8, 2018. Blackout dates apply.
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Signature Departures Small Group Adventures
15
Off the Beaten Path Ethiopia
Cover Image: Llamas on a Patagonian prairie.
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20
Dispatches The Latest in Luxury Travel
Gazing at the Heavens The World’s Best Northern Lights Viewing
16
Explorer The Ice Whisperer
18 28
Latin America Continent of Contrasts
Global Exposures Coco Loco in Cuba
26
Gear Arctic Chic Jetlag Tech
44
oman Whispers of the Desert
49
Culture Creature Papua New Guinea
40
COMMUNITY Taking the CONSERVATION LEAD
42
Itinerary Best of British Columbia
50
Japan Where the Mountains Meet the Sea
54
Food Trails Spain’s Epicurean Epicenter
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on THE ROAD Tico Liu
58
Hero Film Director Brad Bestelink
THE CALENDAR
Dochula Druk Wangyel Festival December 13, 2017 Dochula, Bhutan
Established to commemorate the rule of Jigme Singye Wangchuck, the fourth king of Bhutan, who reigned from 1972-2006, the Dochula Druk Wangyel Festival is a cultural event held annually at the 3100-metre Dochula Pass in the Eastern Himalayan mountains. Offering views of the scenic snowcovered mountain range, the festival sees royal family and ministers join local and foreign spectators to watch a series of Bhutanese folk and mask dance performances by the Royal Bhutan Army. Visit the iconic Druk Wangyal Lhakhang temple and the 108 chortens before you check the festival off your list. www.tourism.gov.bt
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THE CALENDAR
1
2
3 1 Carnival of Binche
4 Light Festival 2 Amsterdam Nov 30, 2017 – Jan 21, 2018
February 11 - 13, 2018 Binche, Belgium
Spanning three days before Ash Wednesday in Binche, Belgium, the Carnival of Binche has a long history tracing back to the 14th century, and is a Unesco recognised folkloric event. Shrove Tuesday will see up to a thousand Gilles, dressed in joker costumes, as well as Peasants, Pierrots and Harlequins, march to the rhythm of drums and viola. Spare a hand to catch the oranges thrown by parade characters for good luck. Pre-carnival activities include days of drum rehearsals and lavish gala events complemented by orchestra performances. www.carnavaldebinche.be
3 Wonderfruit Festival December 14 - 17, 2017 Pattaya, Thailand
Thailand’s biggest arts and music celebration, the ecofriendly Wonderfruit Festival provides a four-day immersive experience of arts, music, wellness and adventures amidst Pattaya’s world class Siam Country Club. In addition to cultural experiences, such as fire shows and graffiti painting, this annual festival introduces a range of music by the likes of Brooklyn-based musical duo Buke and Gase; British singer-songwriter Lianne La Havas; and electro-music artist Eric Volta. Do yoga in a canvas tent or learn Muay Thai with professionals on hand, and recharge at the nearby food trucks. www.wonderfruitfestival.com
Amsterdam, The Netherlands
A 55-day winter event featuring light and art installations all over the city centre, the Amsterdam Light Festival transforms the streets and canals into light artists’ themed exhibition platforms. Cruise on the Water Colours boat route, along which massive floating artworks are displayed, and view lit buildings and tunnels along the Illuminade walking route, an open-air light museum featuring interactive pieces created by designers from the Plantage neighbourhood. www.amsterdamlightfestival.com
4 Edinburgh’s Hogmanay
December 30, 2017 – January 1, 2018 Edinburgh, Scotland
One of the world’s largest New Year celebrations, Edinburgh’s Hogmanay is a three-day event that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors to the Scottish capital each year. The festival begins with a torchlight procession in Old Town, followed by a range of parades and music performances back dropped by Edinburgh Castle. Join the big New Year’s Eve party on Princes Street and stay to sing the Scots folk song, Auld Lang Syne, with other revellers as the midnight bell rings in the new year. If you have a friend in town, make sure to bring a bottle of whiskey for good fortune when you visit their home. www.edinburghfestivalcity.com
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DISPATCHES
Aurora Announce New Expedition Yacht Australian adventure specialists Aurora Expeditions is the latest company to announce a new purpose-built expeditionary vessel. The state-of-the-art ice class 1A ship will offer unprecedented levels of safety and environmental protection when it’s launched in time for the 2019/2020 Antarctic season. Exclusively designed for expedition cruising, the new ship will feature an X-BOW that will reduce motion in the ocean, and will allow for greater adventure opportunities thanks to a customdesigned platform to cater for additional numbers of kayakers and divers, and a mud room for easier preparation for climbers and skiers. Small inflatable Zodiac craft will continue to carry expeditioners between ship and shore, with a dedicated sea-level Zodiac loading platform for quick and easy boarding. Other amenities will include a 180-degree indoor observation deck; wellness facilities including a gymnasium, sauna and spa; and plenty of outdoor viewing areas for additional enjoyment and comfort. www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
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DISPATCHES
Sicily by Luxury Train
Shanghai Seclusion
A new luxury resort in Shanghai, Amanyangyun is set to become Aman’s fourth destination in China when it opens its doors this autumn. Surrounded by trees and lakes, Amanyangyun is a serene haven away from Shanghai’s bustling city centre. Part resort part living museum, many of the property’s suites are housed in a series of ancient Ming and Qing Dynasty cottages, saved from demolition and moved 700km from Jiangxi Province under the supervision of Jiangxi-born entrepreneur and philanthropist Ma Dadong. In addition, a forest of 1,000-year-old camphor trees were also transported to create a surreal forest glade within easy reach of China’s commercial capital. The result is 26 sumptuous guest spaces – from one-bedroom Club Suites to four-bedroom Antique Villas with pools – each of which boasts interiors by Kerry Hill Architects that embrace a restful, earthy palette, and feature wood, stone, and bamboo. Look out for a signature Chinese restaurant, a village-style deli, and a comprehensive Aman Spa. www.aman.com
Golden Eagle Luxury Trains has rolled out a new Sicilian Odyssey tour onboard the Golden Eagle Danube Express. The itinerary starts with two nights at Venice’s five-star Hotel Danieli, before guests depart on the train for Verona and then down to Bologna, the historic capital of the Emilia-Romagna region. After travelling southeastward to San Marino, one of the world’s oldest republics, where guests will delve into the city’s historic architecture; the train continues to the port town of Bari, famed for its Adriatic coastline. The train then journeys west to central Italy through the Matese hills for an exploration of the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii, and continues through Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni, a national park in southern Italy. Highlights of the tour include a walking tour in Sicily’s bustling capital, Palermo, a detour to the Corleone town, home to the notorious Mafia families, and the chance to travel on one of the world’s few train ferries. www.goldeneagleluxurytrains.com
The Stories of Pharaohs
Pharaonic history buffs will have the chance to delve into the rich history of ancient Egypt, when The Grand Egyptian Museum opens in Giza next year. Located between the ancient pyramids and Cairo, the museum will cover 24,000sqm of exhibition space, with a children’s museum, a large conservation centre, and five extensive gardens and parks. Constructed with a dramatic translucent alabaster stone façade, the eye-catching museum will have a shaded entrance area, at which stands a statue of Ramesses the Great, as well as a 24-metre high Grand Staircase leading up to the Giza Plateau, the new home of the Tutankhamen collection of Cairo’s Egyptian Museum, as well as the Solar Boat exhibition, presently located nearby. www.gem.gov.eg
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DISPATCHES
Dive on the Titanic
Bespoke London-based travel company Blue Marble Private will invite curious travellers to a deep-water discovery of the wreck of the world-famous RMS Titanic with a new eight-day journey starting May 2018. Available for only nine adventurers at a time, the experience takes ‘Mission Specialists’ from the coast of Newfoundland, Canada to the expedition support yacht by a helicopter or seaplane. Adventurers will then explore the ship, at its depth of 3,784-metre, with a team of explorers, scientists, submersible pilots and expedition crew. Orientation sessions will familiarise Mission Specialists with the support vessel’s systems, including sonar, undersea navigation system, and the specially-designed titanium and carbon fibre submearsibles used to explore the wreck. Priced from US$105,129 per person, equivalent to a First Class passage ($4,350) on RMS Titanic’s inaugural – and only – sailing, after adjusting for inflation. www.bluemarbleprivate.com
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DISPATCHES
A Serene Enclave
New Asilia Camp in Ruaha
Asilia Africa’s new Jabali Ridge safari camp will open in Southern Tanzania’s Ruaha National Park this September, offering adventurous souls and exceptional safari wilderness experience. The region is home to the world’s largest population of elephant, as well as lions, leopards, buffalos and rare sable and roan antelopes, which can be spied on daily game drives. Located close to the core game viewing area of the Mwagusi River, the camp will provide eight suites and one private house, all of which will feature open-plan bedrooms, en-suite bathrooms with full facilities, private outdoor lounges, and in-room internet access. There will be a spa and an infinity pool, both of which are surrounded by gardens punctuated by granite boulders. www.asiliaafrica.com
Catering to discerning travellers bound for the ancient, Unesco-listed Laotian capital of Luang Prabang, Rosewood Luang Prabang will open later this year as a luxury villa encampment surrounded by lush forests and flowing waterfalls. Located a ten-minute drive from the city centre, the 22-key retreat will offer a choice of deluxe, garden or private pool villas as well as 100sqm luxury tents, each of which will feature open-air showers and living rooms, private dining areas, wrap-around decks, and views of a nearby waterfall and river. Designed by Bangkok-based American architect Bill Bensley, the tented camp’s architecture will showcase Lao tradition and French colonial influences, with the use of indigenous materials; while the property’s bistro will enhance guests’ gastronomic experience with an enticing menu of French and Laotian cuisines. www.rosewoodhotels.com
Kwandwe Opens New Family Villa
South Africa’s award-winning Big Five private game reserve, Kwandwe, has added a private safari villa to its accommodation offerings. Offering boundless views over the expansive reserve, the Kwandwe Fort House is a modern, sole-use safari villa featuring two master bedrooms and two twin suites, as well as free flowing living and entertainment areas. The secluded accommodation combines a safari lodge with a modern home, with grass cloth wallpaper, linen and curtains in silk, leather furniture and hide rugs, complemented by high ceilings and floor-to-ceiling glass doors. Guests can watch wildlife making their way to the nearby watering hole from the expansive terrace; lounge on the villa’s front lawn; and dine around the traditional boma sala. www.kwandwe.com
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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES
UNLOCK YOUR PASSION WITH UNIQUE SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES
Country Holidays’ insightful Signature Departures itineraries help true travellers unlock their passions whilst visiting the world’s most captivating destinations.
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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES
Discover your passions, whether they’re for history, culture, or gastronomy, alongside like-minded travellers, with Country Holidays’ curated selection of small group adventures to the world’s most enticing and enthralling destinations. Every aspect of these unique adventures, from knowledgeable guides and world-class accommodation to captivating behind-the-scenes experiences is geared towards you – the savvy luxury traveller with a passion for the world beyond. Culture Curators
Perfect for lovers of history, Culture Curators itineraries are often timed to coincide with important festivals and celebrations, allowing travellers the opportunity to delve into the very fabric of a destination thanks to private lectures, exclusive access to cultural performances and visits with traditional artisans. With a rich heritage that reaches back as far as the first men, explore Ethiopia during the annual Timkat festival, the most important on the Ethiopian Orthodox calendar – there’s also the chance to participate in a traditional coffee ceremony. Indulge in the ever-changing colours of Morocco during a luxurious private plane sojourn, with visits to the blue pearl of Chefchaouen, the towering dunes of the Sahara, and the starry skies crowning the Atlas Mountains, finishing with suitably regal accommodation in Marrakesh. In Sicily, capture the pageantry of the Dance of the Devil, the highlight of the island’s holy week festivities, before touring Palermo and Agrigento with local historians, and indulging in authentic Michelinstarred Sicilian cuisine. Iran continues to fascinate and the Classic Iran itinerary visits tantalising Shiraz and the Ali Ebne Hamzeh mausoleum, before encountering the ancient, Unesco-recognised Zoorkhaneh rituals, once used to train young warriors. In another hotspot, Georgia, you’ll be serenaded during a traditional cappella performance at Geghard Monastery; visit the Stalin Museum with a local historian; and tour the refugee village of Tserovani, with visits to the school and local homes.
Active Explorers
Curated for active souls looking to delve beyond the beaten path, Active Explorers itineraries are perfect for travellers who enjoy a little exercise. Hike Japan’s ancient Kumano Kudo pilgrim trail, with time for intimate temple stays and exhilarating log rides down alpine rivers, before rewarding yourself with a stay at hot springs resort Amanemu. Delve into the bucolic landscapes of Provence on a unique gourmet adventure that includes accommodation in charming local hotels and inns, opportunities to dine on fresh local ingredients in remote rural villages, the chance to sample olive oil and wines from artisanal producers, and hike through some of France’s most captivating and inspirational settings with experienced guides.
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SIGNATURE DEPARTURES
Nature Lovers
Designed for travellers with a passion for the living world, Nature Lovers itineraries seek out the most dramatic destinations and dive off the beaten path to find pristine ecosystems, far from the tourist throngs. Ideal for discerning adventure travellers, the Signature Departures itinerary to Iceland delves into the island’s myriad landscapes, from ancient fjords and ice caves to geothermal pools. You’ll explore this unique destination by luxury, wifi-equipped 4x4 and coincide your visit with some of the region’s best Northern Lights viewing (read more on pg 20). Bake bread in a hot spring, tackle the Crystal Cave with a glacier expert, and enjoy exclusive use of the iconic Lava Lagoon. The Great Migration is considered one of the best shows on earth and you’ll have front row seats during an invigorating itinerary that combines the migration – the movement of millions of wildebeest, zebras and gazelles across the African plains. Visit acclaimed Ngorongoro Crater, a collapsed volcano that’s home to the densest game population on earth; stay at boutique game lodges and tented camps; and watch the migration over two days, with options to picnic on the Ngorongoro crater floor and view the migration from a hot air balloon. There’s also an opportunity to add on a visit to the mountain gorilla communities of Rwanda.
Culture Curators 10 Days Ethiopia
January 10-20, 2018
11 Days Morocco Ultimate Luxury February 13-24, 2018
8 Days Sicily March 29 – April 7, 2018
11 Days Classic Iran April 4-15, 2018
8 Days Georgia & Armenia May 4-12, 2018
Active Explorers
5 Days Japan Kumano Kudo Trail May 11-16, 2018
8 Days France Provence Hiking Gourmet Adventure May 27 - June 4, 2018
Nature Lovers 6 Days Iceland
February 10 -16, 2018
Migration & Gorilla (East Africa Part 2) July 2018 14
JOURNEY WEAVER
OFF THE BEATEN PATH
UNDER THE
AFRICAN SUN
A
ncient, intriguing, and hospitable, Ethiopia is stepping from the shade of the 1990s into a new light as one of Africa’s hottest destinations for 2017. It’s been a long time coming, but then again, Africa’s oldest independent country has had its fair share of challenges to overcome, from famine to revolution. However, change is finally afoot. Ethiopia, the land of the Great Rift Valley and Queen Sheba, has been brewing all the credentials of a world-class destination for some time; a succession of empires passed through the pages of Ethiopia’s history, each leaving their legacy in the form of palaces, fortresses and gilded churches. Unesco has already recognised many of the country’s ancient markets, its ground-breaking national parks, and its time-weathered cathedrals, helping thrust that rich heritage into the international spotlight. When travellers do arrive, they are quickly seduced by the country’s ever-changing landscapes, which range from the rushing Blue Nile and the soaring red cliffs of the Gheralta
Mountains, to the salt plains of the Danakil Desert. Colour is everywhere in Ethiopia, and investment in infrastructure – in the capital Addis Ababa but also in the depths of the country – is making it easier than ever to encounter Ethiopia’s otherworldly vistas when on holiday. It’s just as well; tourism officials predict arrival numbers to double from three years ago to over one million, thanks to effective marketing, additions to Ethiopian Airways’ network, and improvements in transport links and hotels. Country Holidays has extensive experience exploring this emerging destination. In addition to its 11-day Ethiopia – An Unspoiled Corner of Africa itinerary, which visits Lake Tana; the monastery of Ura Jidane Mihret; the source of the Blue Nile; the Tis Tsat falls; and offers the chance to take part in a traditional coffee ceremony, the company also offers a 10-day itinerary that coincides with the annual Ethiopian Orthodox Timkat Festival (read more on page 14) which celebrates the baptism of Jesus in the Jordan River
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EXPLORER
THE ICE Multi-award-winning Arctic photographer Joshua Holko knows a thing or two about shooting captivating images of rare wildlife in extreme conditions. He speaks with Crystal Leung about the shot that won him Global Arctic Photographer of the Year, polar travel essentials, and his love affair for the world’s coolest destinations. 16
JOURNEY WEAVER
EXPLORER
include an expedition ship in the image or perhaps even a solitary bird on an iceberg. I also like to photograph wildlife in the context of their environment. It’s very important to get down low to eye level with your subject in order to connect with it and to create more intimate images.
Besides cameras, what are five essentials we will find in your backpack?
An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon); when you set it off, a rescue helicopter will come to get you out of a tough spot; a portable handheld GPS; knee pads, as I spend a lot of time kneeling and lying on the ground when I’m working in the field; a set of micro spikes for my boots to ensure I don’t slip on ice; and a small, lightweight buckwheat filled beanbag, which makes a great support for a heavy lens.
Did you always want to be a photographer?
What are your favourite destinations other than the Arctic and Antarctic?
photograph full-time.
How has the Arctic changed during your career?
Yes, but it took me many years to work out what I really wanted to photograph. In the early days when I was shooting slide film, I was mostly shooting rock climbing and the landscapes of Australia; it was not until I first visited the polar regions that I really found my calling and knew what I wanted to
Can you tell us the story behind your winning shot, Protecting the Kill?
The photograph was taken on the frozen Templefjord, north of Longyearbyen, during a personal snowmobile expedition to Svalbard, Norway, in winter last year. It shows a female polar bear backlit by the setting winter sun. Her breath was steaming in the freezing air as she guarded a recent bearded seal kill.
What photographic gear do you usually take on an expedition?
Outside of the Polar regions, I have been to Africa three times in the last few years to photograph the giant sand dunes of the Namib Desert; it’s one of the oldest deserts in the world and the destination is pretty incredible. In addition, New Zealand remains one of my favourite places in the world, specifically the South Island with its precipitous mountains that plunge straight down into temperate rainforests and wild beaches.
The most visible change in the Arctic is the melting of ice caps. In the last five years alone, I have witnessed dramatic deflation and retreat of many of the glaciers across the Arctic. The melting of ice caps not only has a profound effect on the landscape, but also the wildlife that depend on ice for survival. With thinning sea ice there is less possibility for ring seals to have their pups, and with less ring seals there is less food for polar bears.
Where’s your next destination?
Right now I am in Iceland leading two back-to-back workshops in the northern and southern part of the Highlands. After that I will head back home for a few weeks before heading down to photograph emperor penguins in a remote part of Antarctica. I have one more expedition to South Georgia Island and Antarctica to conclude the year.
I usually bring at least three camera bodies as I like to photograph with multiple bodies at the same time. This can be really helpful in photographing quickly moving wildlife, where a lens change would result in a missed shot. I also take an assortment of lenses with me, from ultrawide angle (11mm) all the way to super telephoto (typically 600mm).
Can you give us some tips on how to capture the Arctic world? The Arctic is incredible for its grandeur and scale, but it can be difficult to capture in a single image. I tend to focus more on details and look very hard for objects that help give a sense of scale to the photograph. Wildlife is fantastic for this, but I might equally
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GLOBAL EXPOSURES
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GLOBAL EXPOSURES
C OC O
LOCO Photographer: Terence Ku Destination: Havana, Cuba
This photo was taken in front of our hotel in Havana just before we began our day’s photography. It was taken in January 2015 during a Global Exposures Cuba Photography Workshop with Bobby Lee. I was crossing the street, and I saw this Coco taxi parked at the red light; Coco taxis are curious-looking auto rickshaws that operate across Cuba and carry two to three passengers in bucket seats behind the driver. I was fascinated as I’d not seen one before. After I crossed the street, a normal taxi pulled up next to the Coco taxi and I was amused by the look on the faces of each driver – the driver of the Coco taxi was so happy and proud of her job. I took this photo to show the difference between the two taxis, and to capture the joy and pride of the Coco taxi driver. The photo also captures the colour of Cuba, and the resilience of its people. It’s a happy, colourful country and I think this image captured that feeling. The next 10-day Global Exposures Cuba Photography Workshop with Bobby Lee will be held December 7-19, 2017.
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
Of all of Mother Nature’s wonders, the Northern Lights certainly rank as one of the most remarkable. Throughout the year, people travel across the world to descend on a few choice hot spots to admire the sky’s most beloved heavenly highlights. It’s something many of us may only have a chance to do once in a lifetime, so to ensure you get the best possible sightings, here’s a roundup of the planet’s top destinations to see the Northern Lights in all their glory. By Sandra Macgregor The Northern Lights have captivated travellers for centuries
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
(Clockwise from top left): Exploring the caves of Iceland; visiting the fantasy land of Tonttula Elves Hideaway; an igloo at Golden Crown Levin Iglut; Sweden’s IceHotel is rebuilt by master crastsmen every year; the TreeHotel offers a superbly modern take on Aurora spying; Iceland is famed for its geothermal attractions; the Northern Lights in Iceland. Photo Credit for Iceland: Louen Tang
Iceland
Iceland has established itself as a firm favourite for adventure travellers looking to hike through its verdant summer, and with Northern Lights viewers during the snowy winters. It also offers a singularly stellar property from which to view the aurora. Eldar is a retreat that’s so exclusive it can’t be found on any map. Nestled beneath a glacier, the surroundings are covered in everchanging seasonal foliage that subtly reflects the kaleidoscope of hues in the sky above. A private butler and chef are part of the package to ensure guests enjoy solicitous service and fine dining as they feast their eyes on the celestial showcase. Take advantage of Eldar’s helicopter pad to fly over the crater of Eyjafjallajokull Volcano or to West Coast Snaefellsnes National Park.
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
Finland
Much like Iceland, Finland is famed for its show-stopping starry shows. If you’re travelling with children to see the Northern Lights, head to Tonttula Elves Hideaway. This fantastical place brings to life Finland’s culture and history using elves, costumes, live reindeer and mythical creatures. It’s like stepping into a fairy-tale. Alternatively, if you’re looking for a one-of-a-kind way to see the aurora then you can’t go wrong with Golden Crown Levin Iglut. You’ll feel completely at one with nature as you admire the Northern Lights through your glass-ceilinged igloo, one of a handful peppered throughout the property, offering the perfect way to gaze at the heavens. Your unobstructed views through nearly floor-to-ceiling windows guarantee you the best seat in the house.
Sweden
This country is well-known as a terrific star-gazing spot. While you’re there to see the Aurora Borealis, why not take your encounter with nature up a notch by staying at a property that highlights Sweden’s spectacular wilderness. At the TreeHotel, cutting-edge contemporary design meets unspoiled natural surroundings. This elevated resort will get you that much closer to the sky; you’ll swear you could touch the heavens and maybe catch your own handful of dancing lights. Lapland Guesthouse cuts through the cold of Sweden with a warm welcome and charming, cosy surroundings. An ideal option for families, the couple who runs the property make it their mission to ensure you make the most of your stay, whether that’s with a Northern Lights show or a spot of dog sledding. Alternatively consider a visit to the original IceHotel. Part art exhibition, part house of slumber, the hotel is recreated with local river water by artists from around the world each year. When you’re not indulging in ice-cold vodka shots at the ICEBAR, head out on mesmerising Northern Lights photography tours or sledding safaris.
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
(Fom top): Snowshoeing at Lyngen Lodge in Norway; family travel at Lyngen Lodge; the Lofton Islands (Photo by Bryan Li).
Norway
Norway is right in the centre of the band of sky in which the Northern Lights normally appear so chances are high that you’ll witness an enthralling display. Located in northern Norway, Lyngen Lodge is an all-season luxury boutique hotel. Unparalleled “summit to sea” activities are the cornerstone of this lodge’s array of services, which include Arctic yoga, skiing, hiking, biking, sea safaris and glacier hiking. Guests can top off a day of activities with refined, Nordic cuisine and then relax in the sauna or take a dip in the outdoor jacuzzi. The lodge also has a special Northern Lights Experience that features a snow shoeing adventure where an experienced guide takes you to a prime viewing location, complete with roaring camp fire. A great Norwegian alternative is the mesmerising Lofton Islands, an archipelago of towering peaks and shimmering seas best known for its rich Viking history. In addition to being one of Norway’s most sought-after destinations, the Lofton Islands also offer spectacular Northern Lights viewing.
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NORTHERN LIGHTS
The Lights over Kangerlussuaq
Canada
When chasing the Northern Lights, the general rule of thumb is that the further out of the city you are, the better, because the darker the sky is, the better your chance of a jaw-dropping performance. That’s why Canada’s Yukon territory, which is part of the country’s remote north, is another one of the world’s great places to catch the Northern Lights. Head to the tiny township of Tagish for some of the best panoramas. While there, be sure to enjoy additional arctic adventures like hiking along the Arctic Circle Trail or dog sled rides along the Takhini River. After spending a few cold nights staring up at the sky, you can head closer to the capital of Whitehorse and warm up at the Takhini Hot Pools.
Greenland
If you’re looking to head north to see the Northern Lights then you can’t do much better than Kangerlussuaq. The region lies just above the Arctic Circle so you won’t have to worry about any artificial lights interfering with your viewing pleasure. It also has few cloudy
days and a stable climate so it’s reputed to have good sightings about 300 days of the year. There’s also plenty to keep you busy during the day while you wait for night to descend. In Kangerlussuaq you can enjoy dog skedding, hiking around the impressive Russell Glacier, a 4x4 drive on an ice cap, and boat trips through the icefjords. Keep your camera at the ready, as there are chances to spot wildlife like musk ox, elk and reindeer.
Alaska
Chasing the aurora doesn’t have to be all about wearing layers of thermal underwear and enduring frostbitten fingers. The destination said to be the best place in the US to see the aurora is Fairbanks, Alaska. Not only does the city play host to the University of Alaska’s Geophysical Institute (which provides forecasts on the viewing conditions for Northern Lights sightings), but it’s also located only an hour away from a series of hot springs that keep visitors nice and toasty while they stare up at the sky. It’s a wonderful way to stay warm and prevent potential neck strain from all that upward gazing
Mother Nature’s Light Show
While the Aurora Borealis, otherwise known as the Northern Lights, may seem like an otherworldly apparition, their occurrence is attributable to the sun putting on a bit of a performance. When the sun’s magnetic fields become twisted they form sunspots and release charged solar particles into space. When these particles hit gases in the earth’s atmosphere they create a brilliant burst of light known as the Northern Lights. The best time to see these awe-inspiring visions is from the fall to the spring equinox (mid-September to mid-March). Although the lights occur on an 11-year cycle and are brightest at the beginning of the cycle, the Northern Lights never actually stop, they merely grow slightly dimmer. But fear not: they’re spectacular no matter when you see them.
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GEAR
A collaboration between headwear specialists Buff and synthetic insulation expert Primaloft, the new ThermoNet beanie is crafted from super light-weight, fast-drying, knitted technical fabric. Four times warmer than the brand’s regular microfibre products, this snug beanie features high-thermal technology that reduces heat loss in extreme cold, while soaking up sweat, making it perfect for any polar adventure. www.buffcanada.com
embrace extremes with the latest outdoor gear, designed specifically for your next outdoor adventure.
On your next expedition cruise, keep your digits toasty with Columbia’s Men’s
Bugaboo Interchange Gloves, which help retain warmth with Omni-Heat thermal reflective technology, and Omni-Tech, which lets air in while protecting both gloves and hands from water. The axe synthetic grip palm allows maximum flexibility and dependability. www.columbiasportswear.hk
Dedicated to hiking enthusiasts, Montane’s lightweight Halogen Alpha Jacket keeps you warm while saving space in your backpack. Its Polartec Alpha technology enables heat retention and high breathability, while two A-line hand-warmer pockets make sure you don’t leave your hands out in the cold. With a zipped chest pocket for your valuables, this wind resistant jacket is a mountain trekkers’ essential. www.montane.co.uk
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GEAR
A light therapy device made to enhance the body’s overall energy levels, the HumanCharger helps fight jet lag, improve mood, and bolster mental health by giving the body the ‘sunlight’ it needs. Small and easy-to-use, the device activates the brain’s light-sensitive areas with UV-free white illumination, which is directed through the ear canals via a pair of LEDSet earplugs. With a short 12-minute daily therapy time and a 12-treatment battery life, the rechargeable pocket-sized device is durable and efficient. An app tracks your travels and notifies you when it’s time for another session. www.humancharger.com
LET THERE
BE LIGHT these cutting-edge anti-jetlag devices use light to help kick start the body and mind when passing through time zones. Another essential designed to provide the brain with effective light therapy, Luminette is a lightweight, foldable device that resembles a futuristic visor. Featuring three levels of blue-enriched white light, which mimics the effects of the sun and regulates the body’s biological clock, Luminette helps improve sleep quality while reducing the effects of travelling across time zones, including insomnia, drowsiness, and mental exhaustion. Complemented by a dedicated mobile app, MyLuminette, the device also provides practical advice specifically suited for flights, and can be charged via micro-USB for on the go use. www.myluminette.com
Part smart eye mask, part sleep advisor, the Neuroon by Inteliclinic is a travel essential that analyses your brainwaves during sleep, while applying bright light therapy through built-in LED bulbs to help improve sleep efficiency when passing through time zones. The mask’s therapy modes are designed for various times of the day, and include the Jet Lag Blocker, which helps the body adapt to the time zone of your destination. With the Bluetooth-connected app, users can keep track of their sleeping schedule and get tips for achieving a better night’s rest. www.neuroon.com
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LATIN AMERICA
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LATIN AMERICA
White sand Caribbean beaches to the heights of the snow-capped Andes, magnificent pre-Colombian pyramids to the pulsing rhythms of modern metropolises, Latin America is one of the most diverse and dynamic places on earth. Ocean Malandra reveals eight dramatically different facets of this unique and inspiring destination. 29
LATIN AMERICA
pATAGoniA
South America turns decidedly temperate and nature looms larger than life in Patagonia, a sparsely populated land of mountainous splendour just waiting for you to explore. Climb to the tops of jagged peaks overlooking the frozen crowns of ancient glaciers before relaxing with fine wine in the southernmost city in the world. On the five to seven-day W Trek in Torres del Paine National Park, located on the Chilean side of Patagonia, experienced guides take visitors through crag-lined alpine valleys to turquoise blue glacier-fed lakes, while porters haul the equipment and prepare gourmet meals. On the Argentine side, Los Glaciares National Park makes for excellent glacier mini trekking from the comfortable home base of Eolo, an exclusive 4,000-hectare property in El Calafate.
Combine Chile’s acclaimed Carretera Austral highway and Argentina’s Route 40 during an epic self-drive road trip to get to Patagonia’s core while witnessing the transition of landscapes, from the forests and pampa of the north to the endless horizons of the barren south. Highlights of the route include the spectacular Llao Llao Peninsula, and the awe-inspiring blue waters of General Carrera Lake. Alternatively, explore Patagonia by sea on the M/V Stella Australis or M/V Ventus Australis on threeto-eight-night cruise itineraries that visit the pristine coastline of Tierra del Fuego, including the Tuckers islets and Glacier Alley. If you’re an old hand, try a visit to Chiloe Island; the fifth largest island in South America, Chiloe is famed for its blue and sei whales, Chilean dolphins, sea lions and marine otters and has been compared to Norway’s Lofoten Islands.
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LATIN AMERICA
The Uyuni Salt Flats
An endless stretch of shimmering white occasionally dotted by Andean flamingos and islands lost in time, Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni salt flats visually stun visitors right off the bat. Formed after the drying of a giant prehistoric lake and containing some 10 billion tons of salt, the largest salt flat on earth is a landscape that will leave you breathless.
Photo Credit: Evelyn Soong
The Atacama Desert
Get cosmic under the cloudless night sky, where some of the world’s lowest levels of light pollution allow for some of the best star gazing on earth. Chile’s Atacama Desert is as far off the beaten path as it gets yet holds endless adventures, including horseback journeys to the Valley of the Moon, an ancient landscape crafted by the elements; mountain biking through the Devil’s Canyon; capturing the majesty of the desert from the famed Mirador del Coyote lookout point; and exploring the geysers of the El Tatio geothermal fields. One of the most popular ways to see all the sights of this epic wilderness is by hot air balloon, although trouble landing in designated spots sometimes means trips have to be cut short. Book these vertiginous adventures in the charming town of San Pedro de Atacama, where your accommodation options range from the private adobe suites of Awasi and the terrace fire pits and inline pool of Tierra Hotel, to the serene and sophisticated guest rooms of Explora Atacama. In the evening, fine Chilean Malbecs can be served, accompanied by views of Licancabur, followed by a private star gazing tour with French astronomer Alain Maury, who had the asteroid 3780 Maury named in his honor.
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Four-wheel drive tours out onto the salt flats run from a single day to nearly a week and always visit the giant cactus-studded Incahuasi Island and the region’s salt museum, constructed entirely from salt bricks. Extended tours run visitors to the Termas de Polques hot springs and Laguna Verde, where the reflection of nearby Lincancabur, an active volcano on the border with Bolivia, hovers on the arsenic and copper-hued waters. For the ultimate adventure, tow your own authentic Airstream trailer out onto the cracked salt, which glows at night under the moonlight, for an experience to remember. As part of this unique camping experience, private chefs serve gourmet meals directly on the salt before retreating to leave you alone on the flats to ponder the meaning of your existence.
LATIN AMERICA
The Galapagos Islands
Discover what inspired Darwin’s theory of evolution as you follow in the footsteps of giant tortoises and blue footed boobies through the ever-changing ecosystems of this remote Pacific Ocean locale. Created by volcanic eruptions some three million years ago, the 16 islands of the Galapagos offer myriad exploration and lodging opportunities that immerse visitors in raw nature at its finest. There are many ways to encounter the Galapagos Islands, both at sea and on terra firma. A short distance from the pristine beaches of Santa Cruz Island, eco-conscious Pikaia Lodge offers active and adventurous travellers luxurious suites (some with private plunge pools), guided land and marine tours using the retreat’s own fleet of yachts, and world-class poolside dining, complete with views across the volcano-studded wilderness. A unique Galápagos experience inspired by the magic of African safaris, camping takes an upscale turn at the Galapagos Safari Camp, located on its own 55-hectare farm and reforestation project, where animals roam freely and daily diving, cruising and walking explorations are customised for each guest. The camp’s luxurious, stilted tents feature custom furniture, ensuite bathrooms and private balconies with sea views; there’s even speciallydesigned tented suites for travelling families. While delving into the islands from land can be intriguing, most travellers explore the Galapagos from the water. Cruises range from mid-size expedition-style cruises offered by companies like Lindblad-Expeditions National Geographic, Silversea and Celebrity Xpedition, which offer a full complement of naturalists and guides, through to boutique cruising catamaran tours on the likes of the Stella Marie and the M/V Origin. Alternatively, the private cabins on La Pinta, a luxury yacht that runs regular 11-day cruises through the islands, allow for intimate aquatic adventures in comfort and style. Photo Credit: Bryan Li
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LATIN AMERICA
Photo Credit: Evelyn Soong
The Amazon Rainforest
It just doesn’t get more abundant than the Amazon Rainforest, a truly unique and ancient landscape that’s home to the highest biological diversity on earth. While six different countries contain pieces of this verdant wonderland, most people visit from either Peru or Brazil, with the former holding more access points, boasting better infrastructure, and offering access to remote indigenous communities, a rich jungle tradition, and important navigable tributaries of the Amazon River. You can explore Peru’s northern Amazon aboard Aqua Expeditions’ Jordi Puig-designed Aria Amazon, which offers beautifully-appointed hardwood suites from which cruisers can watch the river’s abundant wildlife as they venture into the Pacaya-Samiria Reserve, home to jaguars, howler monkeys, tropical birds and traditional native communities. An onboard five-star kitchen serves contemporary takes on authentic Peruvian cuisine, while pink dolphin viewing is at its best from the observation deck’s Jacuzzi. For an unforgettable southern Amazon jungle experience, immerse yourself in the robust beauty of the deep Amazon Rainforest at one of Inkaterra’s two luxury jungle lodges, located in the Madre de Dios area. The Hacienda Concepcion hosts 19 private cabañas on stilts and daily guided ecological walks, while the Reserva Amazonica is home to a bridge walkway system that allows the intrepid to explore independently.
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There is a place that will bring back enjoyment Discover the you you never knew. Discover yourself in Peru.
Peru, Land of Hidden Treasures
LATIN AMERICA
Easter Island
Although Rapa Nui takes its English name from the arrival of the Dutch in 1722, Easter Island is best known for its indigenous heritage, and the legacy of its iconic Moai statues, towering, brooding volcanic rock effigies crafted by Polynesian tribes between the 11th and 14th centuries. Consequently, the island, located 3,700km off the coast of Chile, is popular with history buffs looking to add some lost culture to their South American odyssey. There are said to be as many as 800 moai figures scattered across a treeless landscape pounded by the Pacific and punctuated by three volcanic peaks, and while they remain a drawcard for tourists, they are just components of a complex island heritage. A visit to the towering cliffs overlooking the rocky island of Motu Nui will give travellers a true sense of the dangers associated with the ancient Tangata manu or Birdman cult, followers of which would brave shark-infested waters to swim to the tiny island searching for the season’s first sooty tern’s egg before climbing the sea cliffs to deliver the egg to a patron, promising prosperity to the community for the year to come. Visitors can learn more about the island’s tradition of basalt stonemasonry at Ahu Vinapu, an archaeological site centered on a stone shrine that faces the winter solstice; and about ancient cultures past at Ana Kai Tangata, where centuries-old cave paintings have been preserved.
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LATIN AMERICA
The Inca
Enter the fascinating world of the Incan Empire, which once reached from northern Chile and Ecuador to southern Colombia, and the Peruvian Amazon. Today, the cobblestone streets of Cusco, its ancient but still beating heart, are lined with international restaurants and artist workshops, while nearby, the Sacred Valley holds more ruins than you could see in a lifetime. The Inca were a pre-Columbian American culture that peaked in the early 16th century. With a rich, yet complex culture centered around its king, the Sapa Inca or ‘son of the sun’, the Inca did not possess many of the fundamentals associated with ancient civilisation, including domesticated animals for transportation, the use of metal, or a written language, but that didn’t stop their construction of one of history’s greatest imperial states. You can visit the most popular Incan legacy by hopping aboard the Hiram Bingham, a luxury train that offers day trips from Cusco to the ancient mountain-top city of Machu Picchu, which was said to have been built for the Incan emperor Pachacuti. You can even linger longer with a stay at Belmond Sanctuary Lodge, the only hotel at Machu Picchu. To tap into the region’s rich history, walk the classic Inca Trail, a five-day camping hike that traces the route of the ancient ‘Inca road’ and which arrives at Intipunku, the Sun Gate, in time for sunrise over Machu Picchu. Alternatively, the Salkantay Inca Trail is an easier, lodge-based alternative to the classic Inca Trail, which offers stunning views and which also ends at ancient Machu Picchu. Afterwards, unwind in Pisac, a small town turned artist colony that sits at the heart of the Sacred Valley, once an Incan stronghold, and which holds trailheads to Moray, where agricultural experiments once provided super foods that fed a civilisation 12 million strong.
Photo Credit: Evelyn Soong
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LATIN AMERICA
The mAyA
Famed as the only known fully-developed writing culture in the pre-Columbian Americans, the Mayan were an advanced civilisation that excelled in the fields of art, architecture, astrology, mathematics and even agriculture. At the height of its power, the civilisation reached from southeast Mexico through Guatemala and Belize to western Honduras and El Salvador. From ruins to rainforests, this slice of Latin America reveals layer after layer of mystery and deep-rooted history. Perched on the bluffs over the turquoise waters of the Mexican Caribbean, the temples of Tulum are a mandatory stop before visiting the massive pyramids of Chichen Itza, where evening light shows play against the carved serpent-adorned walls. Deeper inland the towers of Palenque keep watch over the Peten jungle, home to partially excavated sites like Yaxchilan and Bonampak, which bustled with activity some thousand years ago. Get lost in time in Guatemala, where ancient Mayan pyramids and colonial cities lie under the shadow of active volcanoes and sprout majestically over the canopy of deep jungle. Walk from site to site through the rainforest at Tikal, the centre of the Mayan Kingdom during the classic period, stopping for a catered gourmet lunch along the way. Visit the boutiques and artisan markets of Antigua, a 16th century gem dotted with crumbling cathedrals and bursting with bohemian nightlife. Relaxation reaches new heights at Lake Atitlan, an impressive inverted cone lake surrounded by forest covered volcanoes and ringed by Mayan villages where spas and eco retreats await. Locals here are masters of textile weaving and wear traditional colourful clothing everywhere they go. The capital of a major Mayan kingdom from the 5th to 9th centuries, Unesco-listed Copรกn is home to ornate statues and stellae, which make its remote location in Honduras worth the visit. Here travellers can indulge in a private presentation, dinner and tour with archaeologist David Sedat, head of the onsite Copรกn 2012 Botanical Research Project. What better way to see one of the finest archeological sites in the Mayan world than with the expert who spent years unearthing its secrets, told by intricately carved stelae and incredible hieroglyphic-encrusted stairways.
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COMMUNITY
Taking the
CONSERVATION LEAD
Over the past 17 years, the Anjajavy le Lodge has been contributing to the protection of the biodiversity and indigenous communities of Anjajavy, Madagascar, through luxury ecotourism, finds Isabelle Lui.
S
et on a peninsula in northwest Madagascar, the Anjajavy Reserve is a remote slice of paradise consisting of secluded beaches and lush, ancient forests that are home to brown lemurs, grey-headed lovebirds, and fat-tailed dwarf lemurs, as well as over 1,800 indigenous botanical species. At the heart of the reserve is Anjajavy le Lodge (formerly known as Anjajavy l’Hotel), a luxurious, Relais & Châteaux selected retreat that’s only accessible by air or sea. A favourite of Bill and Melinda Gates, it’s also the island’s poster boy for sustainable eco-tourism.
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Anjajavy’s conservation success is centered around the lodge, which opened with 24 rosewood villas on a private 150-hectare estate in 2000. With a sound conservation philosophy, the lodge and its reserve have flourished, its footprint expanding to a protected reforested biosphere spanning 750-hectares, where many of the island’s most endangered animals, from Malagasy fish eagles to Madagascar big-headed turtles, live in safety. General manager of Anjajavy le Lodge since 2009, Cédric de Foucault takes the property’s sustainable vision seriously.
COMMUNITY The lodge has also created a Scientific Research and Interpretation Centre, where ethno-conservation projects focused on endangered species are carried out by a team of veterinarians, botanists, and ecosystem managers. However, Cédric is aware that the reserve cannot exist as an island of sustainability. “If we don’t want to be superficial about our environmental care, we need to invest socially,” he says. “Education and health are important projects that require considerable effort, for maximum positive and holistic environmental impact.” The lodge’s outreach programmes ensure prosperity for all. The local Anjajavy Secondary School was built in Anjajavy village with the help of donations from the lodge’s clients, and plays a key role in fostering sustainable practices from a young age with exhibitions and seminars relating to the region’s unique but fragile biodiversity. In addition, the lodge is a major employer and source of revenue for local communities; by only employing local Malagasy staff, the lodge offers an economic alternative for local communities, securing the support of the region’s indigenous people while educating them on contemporary environmental protection. Like many projects, Anjajavy is a work in progress, but its success and influence is expanding; last August, the people of the nearby Ambondro Ampasy and Kinga communities agreed to stop the use of fishing nets in mangrove areas, vital ecosystems for a variety of sea birds, turtles, and dugongs.
“True conservation requires us to act positively in an inclusive, truly sustained and long-term way,” says the hotelier, who believes that through ecotourism, the values of caring for the environment will develop in the hearts of visitors. “Authentic ecotourism begins with awakening the senses, then a desire to know and speak to our deepest being.”
“The reserve needs to expand and to connect to other reserves for the good of the animals and plant life,” says Cédric. “A Unesco protection of the nearby Moramba Bay, with its mushroom islets and critically endangered fish eagles, would be a great achievement over the next ten years.” In that time the lodge also plans to harness 80 percent of its energy from solar panels, showing how easily luxury and sustainability can go hand in hand. www.anjajavy.com
Cédric’s environmental initiatives are multi-spoked. Of local Malagasy stock but educated in France, he combined a first world approach to sustainability while maintaining an intimate understanding of the needs of both the reserve’s wildlife and local communities. Education plays a fundamental role and the lodge regularly welcomes research interns from leading universities in the UK and US, who visit the reserve to study its plethora of endemic wildlife, including chameleons, common brown lemurs and mouse lemurs, the smallest species of these adorable primates; harrier hawks, elusive fosa, the island’s largest carnivore; and Coquerel’s sifakas.
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ITINERARY
Canada celebrates its 150th anniversary this year, making it the ideal time to explore its diverse landscapes and encounter its spectacular wildlife on this truly remarkable itinerary.
C
anada is a sensational destination at any time of year. With its myriad landscapes and worldfamous wildlife, the only dilemma is how to see the best the country has to offer in a relatively short period of time. Fortunately, the 23-day Magnificent Canadian Wilderness Safari itinerary captures the beauty and diversity of this great land in one unique adventure. The journey starts with a week-long Hudson Bay Odyssey by Churchill Wild, with travellers gathering in Winnipeg, the capital of Manitoba, before delving into the Cape Tatnam wildlife management area. Here, guests will base their explorations of
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ITINERARY
this acclaimed polar bear reserve from the recentlyrenovated Nanuk Polar Bear Lodge. You’ll spend exhilarating days riding along the coast of Hudson Bay, through a landscape of palsa bogs, taiga forest and tundra ponds, in search of denning bears, Arctic wolves and hares, before returning to the luxury of the lodge, famed for its Tundra to Table culinary philosophy and Northern Lights viewing. After a three-hour private plane flight to Vancouver, you’ll transition from the subarctic landscapes of Hudson Bay to the grasslands of British Columbia. At Siwash Lake Wilderness Resort, the country’s leading luxury dude ranch, you’ll learn the timeless art of ranching at the hands of an experienced
ranching team. Once you’re matched with the perfect horse it’s time to ride the stunning scenery of the Cariboo, with time to fish, shoot, hike, kayak, dine on Michelin-styled cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, or simply soak up the serenity of cowboy country from the porch. From the grasslands, you’ll fly by private seaplane to Bella Coola and British Columbia’s largest protected reserve, Tweedsmuir Provincial Park, home to the largest concentration of grizzly bears in North America. You’ll spy these beautiful and often inquisitive bears, often with their cubs, as they pluck salmon from the pristine Atnarko River. There will also be time to heli-hike the trails of gorgeous Ape Lake, and explore the region’s rich First Nation culture, which includes 10,000-year-old petroglyphs. Continuing bears as a theme, venture west by seaplane to the Pacific Coast and the majestic Great Bear Rainforest, home to the elusive Spirit Bear. Also known as the Kermode bear, this rare subspecies of the American black bear is known for its blonde, almost white fur. You’ll explore this very special corner of Canada aboard the antique Pacific Yellowfin, a converted trawler that serves up captivating vistas and gourmet cuisine. You’ll fly south this time, arriving at Nimmo Bay Wilderness Resort, a hidden retreat at the end of its own pristine inlet. Here you’ll have the chance to heli-hike, kayak, fly fish and star gaze, or simply curl up by the camp fire with a glass of wine and a good book, humbled by the majesty of the surrounding bay. After three days, you’ll head south to Vancouver and home, renewed, inspired and with new treasured memories of the bears of Canada. www.luxurywildernesslodges.com
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OMAN
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OMAN
Whispers Of
The Desert Oman is one of the world’s most sought after destinations for 2017, but behind its modernity lies a rich history laced with myths and majesty, discovers Anna Selby.
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OMAN
A
scrubby tree looking more dead than alive in a stony desert is an unlikely basis for an economy. This, however, is no ordinary tree. The clue is its trunk, covered in scars that yield a sap that crystallises into one of the most precious commodities known to the ancient world – frankincense. This was the incense, once more valued than gold, that the Queen of Sheba gave to Solomon, that Queen Hatsheput burned in her Luxor temple, and that the Magi took to the infant Jesus. The frankincense trade brought vast wealth to Oman, especially to the southern region of Dhofar, producing cities and palaces of dazzling splendour. One, Sumhuram, sits on a promontory looking out across the blue Arabian Sea and is said to have been the palace of the Queen of Sheba. The even more famous Omanum Emporium, featured on Ptolemy’s map of 150AD; built to
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rival paradise, it was surrounded by marble walls, set with precious stones and topped with golden roofs. Omanum Emporium – known as Irem in the Koran and Ubar in Tales from One Thousand and One Nights – was famed for its debauchery and paganism, provoking the wrath of Allah who buried it under the sands. There it stayed, despite many expeditions to find it, until an octagonal fortress with nine towers was discovered by satellite in 1992 in modern Shisr. Surrounded by a web of caravan tracks thousands of years old, Shisr could just be the fabled capital of the frankincense trade. The journey there alone is pretty exciting. Leaving the empty white beaches of Dhofar’s coast, populated by flocks of flamingos, you drive through fertile river valleys into the magnificent jebel, the mountains, home to soaring eagles on the edge of the Empty Quarter and 400,000 square kilometers of a shadeless, windswept, shifting sea of sand.
OMAN On Shisr’s other side, paradoxically, is the region of the al khareef rains, the tail of the Indian monsoons that fall here as a misty drizzle in summer. The gardens around the regional capital, Salalah, burst into flower, bananas, papayas and coconuts flourish, wadis become fast-flowing rivers and the southern slopes of the jebel turn green and fertile. It’s not just the weather that confounds western expectations of the turbulent Middle East. This is a stable, peaceful country, spotlessly clean (the capital Muscat is regularly listed among the world’s cleanest cities). Its modernity is based, like its neighbours’, on oil and gas but this is no Dubai or Bahrain. There are no steely skyscrapers here and the architecture speaks in the vernacular. For the traveller in search of Arabia Felix, only Oman will do. Souks sell leather, pottery, silver, hunting guns, the silver-sheathed khajar knife, the national symbol and, of course, frankincense. The magic of the desert – with its beautiful amber and gold dunes – is just two hours drive from the capital in the Wahiba Sands. Bedouin live here with their goats and camels and there are a handful of luxury encampments. You can ride a camel into the sunset, then storytellers with the silvery tongue of Sheherezade, the lead character in One Thousand and One Nights, or musicians and dancers will beguile the evenings under a starry sky.
The Sultanate of Splendour
Oman remains one of the hottest Middle Eastern destinations for travellers from Asia and the Country Holidays six-day Country of Mountains, Wadis, Deserts & Historic Forts itinerary captures the essence of the nation. After exploring the Natural History Museum, the traditional Old Souk, and the Grand Mosque in Muscat, you’ll pass through the Eastern Hajar Mountains en route to the coastal town of Sur, home to the Dhow Museum (there’s even an opportunity to visit the Ras al Jinz Turtle Reserve). You’ll enjoy an authentic desert camping experience in the Wahiba Desert, a paradisiac oasis with turquoise and sapphire coloured water pools, and explore this mesmerising landscape on 4x4 adventures, returning to camp in time for a BBQ served under the stars. In Ibra, a medieval village in the Jebel Akhdar mountains, you’ll climb ancient watchtowers before journeying to Misfat Al Abruyeen and Bilad Sayt, traditional mountain hamlets that are popular with hikers exploring the region’s deep canyons, home to dramatic rock formations.
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Legend and modernity rub shoulders here constantly and the taste for dazzling Arabian palaces has never really gone away. Hotels are at the magnificent end of the spectrum, their entrances still scented with frankincense. The tone is set by the Al Bustan Palace – with an atrium high enough to stand a jumbo jet on its tail. This is not a land where minimalism comes easily. It may be some time since the Queen of Sheba passed this way, but a love of opulence still lingers like a legend in the sands or the scent of frankincense on the air.
The Empty Quarter
A land of myths and mystery, the Empty Quarter, known on the Arabian Peninsula as Rub’ al Khali, has captivated the imaginations of explorers for centuries. The largest sand desert in the world, the Empty Quarter is a fitting name for a sea of shifting sand dunes that covers over 650,000sqkm (making it larger than France). With dunes towering as high as 250 metres, the desert reaches the borders of Oman, the United Arab Emirates, and Yemen but the majority is within the confines of Saudi Arabia. Of the many myths and legends that linger within the sand seas, the most compelling is that of the Lost City of Iram, an ancient metropolis first mentioned in the Qur’an in the 7th century, that was said to have been pounded into the sands of the Empty Quarter for defying the warnings of the prophet Hud. Despite the inhospitality of the desert, it’s an increasingly popular destination for intrepid travellers; enjoy your own One Thousand and One Arabian Nights adventure on a four-night itinerary as you tour Oman’s historic town of Salalah before delving into the Dhofar Mountains, a desolately beautiful landscape peppered with ancient frankincense trees, en route to the Rub al Khali, where you’ll camp under the stars, much like the Bedu tribesmen have for centuries.
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CULTURE CREATURE
SINGING IN THE
NAME OF PEACE Few destinations remain as exotic, or as wild, as Papua New Guinea, a clutch of South Sea islands that represent the last frontier of the Pacific. Famed for its captivating biodiversity and colourful but warlike tribes, Papua New Guinea’s mountainous Western Highlands play host to the annual Mt Hagen Show festival, a traditional Sing-Sing event. Introduced by missionaries in an attempt to forge unity and respect among tribes that often held grudges for generations, Sing-Sings are kaleidoscopic cultural events attended by tribes from across the country, who perform traditional dances and tell timeless folklore. The Mt Hagen event, held in August each year, is the largest Sing-Sing in Papua New Guinea, welcoming dance and cultural groups from over 100 Papuan tribes, from the Highlands, the Lowlands and even the coastal islands. Performers adorn themselves in vibrant natural pigments, rare bird features and kina shells to display the wealth of their community as the women serenade the crowds with songs passed down through generations and the men show their fierce dexterity with spears and bows. There’s no winner, no losers, just a harmony brought to the remote mountains of Papua in the name of culture.
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JAPAN
Find serenity among the bamboo forests of Takefue
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JAPAN
Japan’s southernmost main island is the perfect place to sample the traditional ryokan experience, marrying hot springs and exquisite Japanese hospitality, discovers Jamie Carter. 51
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tep onto the sub-tropical island of Kyūshū, Japan’s third largest, and you’re transported to another world. This is an island where geology makes the rules; its centre and south are dominated by huge active volcanoes, notably Mount Unzen, Mount Aso and Sakurajima. Such volcanic activity has not only produced iconic landscapes, but it’s also carved out a wonderland of some of the finest onsen (hot springs) in all of Japan. To get to the core of the island’s onsen heritage head for the serene Onyado Chikurintei, a Japanese ryokan inn at Takeo Onsen, acclaimed as a spa destination for over 1,300 years. While some ryokan are modern and more hotel-like, Onyado Chikurintei is where you go to sample traditional Japanese hospitality, unchanged for centuries. The inn’s 11 exclusive and unique rooms all boast scenic views over the property’s exquisite and extensive Mifuneyama Rakuen garden, with its large pond wreathing the base of Mt. Mifune. Onyado Chikurintei has a beautiful public bath hewed from hinoki cypress and granite, but for the ultimate indulgence, book one of the rooms with a private outdoor bath. Amid the aroma of delicate cedarwood incense, the Chikurin restaurant’s
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seasonal kaiseki meal – served in an ultra-traditional manner befitting your surroundings – can only be topped by post-dinner drinks by the lake, or on your very own a moon-viewing deck. It’s no wonder that the inn counts members of the Japanese royal family among its esteemed guests. Rested and relaxed, your journey through Kyūshū continues in Nagasaki, a city most commonly remembered for the atomic bomb dropped here in 1945. However, this vibrant city is so much more than just that memory, as you’ll be instantly convinced after a ropeway trip up Mt Inasayama. The ‘$10 million view’ from its observation platform is said to rival even The Peak in Hong Kong. The Urakami River valley and narrow Nagasaki harbour are laid-out below, the city centre becoming a sea of flickering coloured lights as night falls. Nagasaki Peace Park and Ground Zero, on high ground in the city’s Urakami district, is built near the atomic bomb’s hypocentre. The right hand of the 9.7-metre-high Peace Statue points to the sky, and its eyes are closed in prayer. It’s quiet and evocative; garlands of origami paper cranes decorate the site, while more can be found
JAPAN
in the nearby Bomb Museum, symbolising a young girl’s fight with leukaemia a full decade after the blast. A short trip east is Kumamoto and its wonderful castle, but on the way don’t miss the sprawling, steaming and bubbling hot spring fields of Unzen Onsen, a resort town located in Japan’s oldest national park. Here you can experience another timeless soak at Takefue, an onsen ryokan with a unique take on the genre. Just 12 rooms nestle in a bamboo forest, each different, but equally exquisite. Some rooms have private baths complementing three public baths, one beside a waterfall, another in a cave, and a third alongside a lush bamboo grove. Guests can take a massage in their rooms, or in the Zen Spa, while the seasonal dishes that form the local Kumamoto cuisine – both for dinner and breakfast – are served in the confines of guest rooms. Though fastidiously Japanese, there are some nods to modernity at Takefue that foreign visitors might find enhances their ryokan experience. Unlike in most onsen inns, here, all rooms have coffee machines, filtered water, and WiFi, while wine is available, and a Western breakfast is optional. Room attendants all speak English.
(Clockwise from top left) Traditional fine-dining is a feature of highend ryokans; Nagasaki’s Peace Statue; private bathing at Onyado Chikurin; bathers at Takefue can easily commune with nature; a trail through the mountains of Yakushima; private dinning is another popular ryokan feature; Takachiho Shrine.
If you can tear yourself away from these delectable onsen ryokans, Kyūshū has much more to offer. Nearby is the huge Mount Aso active volcano, whose crater can be visited by ropeway. Take a walk across the dramatic Kokonoe ‘Yume’ Ootsuribashi suspension footbridge in the Oita wilderness, then visit the Takachiho Shrine, followed by a row boat trip down Takachiho Gorge. After a visit to the city of Kagoshima, including its fascinating Chiran samurai district, and the ominous-looking Mount Sakurajima volcano that looms over the city, consider a side-trip to the offshore island of Yakushima. The entire island is an UNESCO World Heritage Site revered for its ancient yakusugi cedar forests. Here reside macaques and deer, while loggerhead turtles return to Yakushima’s beaches in summer to lay their eggs. With excellent hiking and many more hot springs, Yakushima is the ideal way to round-off a journey through Kyūshū, an intensely relaxing take on your next Japan sojourn.
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FOOD TRAILS
SPAIN’S
EPICUREAN EPICENTER
Matt Flemming dines his way through San Sebastian,
home to Spain’s most diverse and intriguing culinary scene. 54
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an Sebastian has no shortage of charms. The crescent-shaped La Concha Bay and its beachfront Belle Epoque character are iconic, as are the cobblestoned streets of the historic Old Town, which are at the heart of the city’s cultural identity. But with a population of less than 200,000, and in a country with an abundance of exceptional local restaurant scenes, San Sebastian seems an unlikely place to be dubbed Spain’s culinary mecca and no less one of the greatest food cities in the world. It begs the question: How did San Sebastian earn its world renown? San Sebastian’s culinary reputation is often attributed to its remarkable Michelin stars per capita ratio – eight restaurants garnered a total of 16 stars in the 2016 edition of the guide. In fact, only eight eateries in Spain were deemed worthy of three stars, and three of them – New Basque haven Arzak, Martin Berasategui’s eponymous eatery, and chef Pedro Subijana’s iconic Akelarre – are in San Sebastian. The fine dining accolades are the result of a centuriesold food culture, a pair of influential historical events, the area’s excellent terroir, and a group of chefs who revolutionised Basque cooking. And the spectrum of food experiences in San Sebastian extends beyond fine dining, to the many pintxos bars, gastronomy clubs, cider houses and markets found throughout the city. In fact, some of the city’s most important institutions are its gastronomy clubs, exclusive societies that provide a space for members to cook with friends and family and dine in a restaurant setting. These clubs emerged from the ruins of the Siege of San Sebastian in 1813, during which much of the city was destroyed. “The people of San Sebastian held meetings to discuss how the city would be reconstructed and at these meetings, they cooked together — that’s how gastronomy clubs were invented,” says chef Subijana. The clubs introduced cooking as a competitive sport. “They used to be only for men so there was competition among the society members to be the best but also among their wives, who wanted to give their husbands a reason to eat at home.” Decades later, San Sebastian became a high society retreat popular with Spanish royalty and later as something of a Spanish Monte Carlo – a grand casino (now San Sebastian’s ornate city hall) was built in 1897 and operated until the Franco regime prohibited
gambling. Spain’s aristocrats hired local residents to work in their kitchens, leaving the city with a workforce of chefs skilled in cooking for the upper class. Subijana and Juan Mari Arzak are two of the fathers of New Basque Cuisine, a movement they began with ten other local chefs in the 1970s. This modern take on traditional Basque cuisine not only brought the city to the forefront of Spanish cooking, but was extremely influential on the nation’s fine dining scene. “We wanted to build something together,” says Subijana. “As chefs, we had no secrets. We opened the doors to our kitchens to show others what we were doing. We felt free to try new things, to adopt new ideas and to create new dishes that were based on traditional Basque cooking.” Subijana says that while a healthy sense of competition still exists, it is not unusual for San Sebastian’s star chefs to get into the kitchen and cook a meal together at a gastronomy club. He and the other founders of New Basque Cuisine also work to mentor talented young chefs in their kitchens, and also through the Basque Culinary Center, an education and research facility. Luis Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz, who spent time working at both Akelarre and Arzak, has gone on to become arguably Spain’s foremost culinary creative genius, spending four months each year researching new dishes and planning a new menu that provides a full sensory experience. While most visitors may come to the city for the Michelin stars, a night spent exploring the pintxos bars of the Old Town is just as much of a quintessential San Sebastian experience. The Basque equivalent of tapas is served up on large platters on bar countertops, with guests helping themselves to these two or- three bite dishes as bartenders serve up glasses of txakoli, a local sparkling white wine. Local residents love to bounce from one eatery to the next, sampling and snacking while drinking and socialising in a friendly and convivial atmosphere. Classic pintxos dishes include anchovies, pickled peppers and olives mounted on toothpicks; Bayonne ham; deviled eggs; Russian salad; Bechamel croquettes, and Spanish omelets. Of course, there is no shortage of bars serving more modern takes on the common pintxo, including A Fuego Negro, Bar Antonio and La Cuchara San Telmo, all of which apply the competitive creativity that has defined San Sebastian as a foodie mecca for generations.
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ON THE ROAD
Mountain
Spirit
Hong Kong-based travel specialist Tico Liu has a love affair with hiking trails. This issue he talks about hiking to Peru’s acclaimed Rainbow Mountains, hiking essentials, and why the slow road is often the best route.
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ON THE ROAD
What are the some of the places you’ve enjoyed trekking? Kilimanjaro was one of the most exciting because at night you can hear predators near the camp. At Mt Kinabalu I enjoyed a beautiful sunset at the mountain lodge, above a sea of clouds; and I remember Poon Hill in Nepal as the first place I glimpsed the Himalayas. Bumthang Bhutan was also special as it was where I did my first overnight trekking; although the Rainbow Mountain (Ausangate Trek) of Peru wowed me the most and has been my most memorable trek so far.
You had planned to do the Inca trail, what changed your mind? A picture of the Rainbow Mountain was quite persuasive. The landscape is surreal and after talking to a guide who had done the Inca Trail before, I’m glad I changed my mind.
How many days was the hike? We managed to hike at a leisurely pace and complete the route in four days and three nights.
What can you tell us about your experience hiking the Rainbow Mountains? The route takes hikers up and down through several passes surrounding Ausangate, a mountain in the Vilcanota range, part of the Peruvian Andes. You’ll pass beneath snow-capped mountains, around a glacier lake, and across lush meadows, spying vicuna, alpaca, cranes, and if you are lucky, condors, foxes, or even mountain lions. You’ll experience four seasons in one day during the Ausangate Trek.
most of my trekking trips, but for the Ausangate Trek I went with a group of friends, two of whom used the trip as an opportunity to get engaged. It was snowing really badly that day, and as we were approaching camp, my friend got down on one knee and proposed. Despite the foul weather she said yes. It was really special.
What tips do you have for travellers who’d like to trek in your footsteps?
Some people opt to do a day trip from Cuzco and just see the Rainbow Mountains but I wouldn’t recommend it as you need to go up from 3,200m to 4,600m in half a day and you will miss the surreal scenery along the trail. Camping will give you more flexibility on your daily progress as you won’t have to “race with the time” to reach your overnight lodge.
What essentials do you take on hiking trips? I always have a camera with me, as well as a water bottle, moisturiser because it can get dry at high altitude, and sometimes a walking stick if the terrain is rough.
Where do you want to go to next? I’d like to hike up to Everest Base Camp in Nepal.
What were your lasting impressions? Probably the feeling of having the mountain all to ourselves. We only saw two other travellers along the route. I’d not encountered such isolation on the trail since trekking Bumthang in Bhutan. I usually travel solo for
Connect with Tico at tico@countryholidays.com.hk
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HERO
Focusing On Nature 58
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HERO
You grew up in a family of hunters?
My great grandfather was a hunter and my grandfather was a hunter. He was killed by a black mamba snake and after he died my parents took one of his hunting camps and started doing photographic tours. That was 1968 and it was the first of its kind in the Okavango Delta. My dad had a problem with shooting things but he had a pot licence to help feed the staff and guests so he would take his little blue Land Rover and follow the lions, and when they killed a buffalo he’s scare them off, hack off the back end of the animal, and take it home before the lions came back. Sometimes the guests would comment on how tough the ‘beef’ was.
So, you were inspired more by cameras than rifles?
I grew up in a photographic and tourism culture, watching my parents bend over backwards shuffling people around. They were very progressive back then. If you grow up in the wild you become very aware of what’s around you. From a young age, I was entrenched in wildlife, but I quickly realised that with tourism the amount of time people get to spend in the bush is limited. I wanted to be able to spend more time in the bush and not have to dance to someone else’s tune so I wrote to a few filmmakers who worked for National Geographic and asked if I could come and learn the ropes from them, and 13 years later here I am.
How much time do you spend in the field each year?
To put it in perspective, in my adult life I’ve probably spent more time with animals than I have with people - my wife certainly likes to point that out. We will spend 15-16 months to produce just one hour of film; it’s a long time, a lot of work, with a lot of dedication behind it. You spend thousands of hours just to get one sequence that will only run for seconds on television.
Do you think wildlife films impact tourists’ perspectives?
There’s two sides; films do condense the bush into a few seconds, and people on safari do have certain expectations, and the reality is often not like television, but there’s also a reluctance by broadcasters to show the reality of the bush, and things like kills – every second tourist wants to see a kill but 90 percent of those who have, don’t want to see another because of the brutality. Natural history films tend to pasteurise all that stuff and won’t show the realty. As a filmmaker, I tend to go against that; I want viewers to emotionally invest in wildlife – they are predators and killing is what they do to survive and what we show is not gratuitous, we simply try to give nature context, so that people can engage.
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HERO
Is your native Botswana the success story of Southern Africa in terms of wildlife conservation?
Botswana is by far the pioneer and leader of the movement but it’s more than just the safari industry; Botswana has quite a unique history in terms of how it deals with wildlife. The Wildlife Act hasn’t changed since independence and is still recognised as one of the most progressive wildlife management laws in the world. Basically, all animals in Botswana belong to the people; they are national assets so there is an intrinsic value associated with them. You can’t just shoot any animal that comes onto your land like in other countries in Africa, you still have to get permission from the government.
What about eco-tourism?
Eco-tourism is the only sustainable, economic processes that will protect these assets. You can put up fences and ban people from certain places and use half an army to protect animals but that’s just a short-term solution. Eco-tourism adds a value to an animal and that will enrich and motivate people to protect it. Think about it, one hunter flies into Botswana with one vehicle and one guide. A photographic group is eight people, with eight flights and eight mouths to feed and eight guys to look after them and at the end the animals are still alive. You can also see the towns that embrace eco-tourism are booming.
Botswana has become a refuge for many species, including South Africa’s dwindling rhinos. How can the medium of film curb the demand for rhino horn?
It needs to start at ground roots level. We make films for conservationists and we try to bring as much of the natural world as we can to people who don’t have access to it but in many instances, we were preaching to the converted so with our latest series, Savage Kingdom, we took a Game of Thrones-styled scripted approach to make the footage much more accessible. We talked about power, and revenge, and lust, offering a touch of entertainment while still letting people see the lives of these animals. It was risky and National Geographic was a bit nervous about this approach but it’s been the most successful series that Nat Geo Wild has had to date; it was translated into 42 different languages and in doing so netted a whole lot of people who know nothing about wildlife. If we are able to start getting another generation interested in wildlife, then they will want to travel, and if they do that, they will bring money to places like Botswana, which in turn is incentivised to spend on sustainable development.
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