Country Roads Magazine "The Cuisine Issue" July 2022 by Country Roads magazine

the

Spanish S uth The New Orleans Antiques Forum 2022

August 4–7, 2022 • The Historic New Orleans Collection

Presented by The Historic New Orleans Collection, this program includes three days with decorative arts enthusiasts and experts, an optional excursion to Bellingrath Gardens and Home, and social outings in the French Quarter. The 2022 forum will explore the Spanish colonial period with sessions on architecture, silver, ceramics, portraiture, and more.

This event is presented with support from the following sponsors. Arbor House Arnaud’s Restaurant Hederman Brothers History Antiques & Interiors Hotel Monteleone

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Keil’s Antiques Krista J. Dumas LaFleur & Laborde, LLC Moss Antiques Royal Antiques

NATCHEZ CREPE MYRTLE FESTIVAL July 2022

July is Peak Bloom for Natchez Crepe Myrtles Enjoy self-guided walking or driving tours and events all month long!

Friday Evening - July 8 “Celebrate the Blooms Bash” Downtown Natchez

Enjoy a moveable feast of sights, sounds, and sips! Stroll our beautiful tree-lined streets Experience our downtown shops, restaurants and bars Join us for our kick oﬀ at Locust Alley 500 Block of Main Street - 5 to 7 pm

Saturday Morning - July 9 “Celebrate the Blooms on Broadway”

Blooms for sale at the Downtown Natchez Farmer’s Market Proper Crepe Myrtle pruning and care demonstrations Enjoy a program and reception at Smoot’s on Broadway Guided and self-guided Crepe Myrtle tours available

Find us on social media

See VisitNatchez.Org for Updates and Book Your Stay! Plan ahead for next year Natchez Crepe Myrtle Festival July 2023

SPONSORS: Donna Ballard Maselli & Wensel Conroy

Photo courtesy of G. Douglas Adams Photography Thank you to our Natchez Adams Master Gardeners // J U L 2 2

Contents

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Events

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SUMMERTIME, & THE LIVIN’S EASY Camps & workshops for the little ones, cocktail trails for the grownups, BBQ fests for all

REFLECTIONS You say Tomayto ... by James Fox-Smith

NEWS & NOTEWORTHIES

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Features

35 38

Publisher

CHEFS STEPHANIE & MICHAEL PAOLETTI

James Fox-Smith

Fostering one-of-a-kind culinary experiences in Ocean Springs by Alexandra Kennon

CHEF TRENT BONNETTE Bringing brown bag ingenuity to Marksville’s Broken Wheel Brewery by Lauren Heffker

CHEFS MATTHEW & ALEXIS INDEST Taking the best of Cajun Country and adding a twist by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

On the Cover

LOCALLY-RAISED CHEFS Cover image by Katherine Swetman

For eight years now, Country Roads has had the distinct pleasure of discovering and celebrating the Gulf South region’s Small Town Chefs through our annual awards, which honor chefs working in towns with populations under thirty thousand. Nestled meekly in between the raging culinary destinations of this food-centric region, these small towns—for one reason or another—offer something to these chefs that the big cities can’t. This year, our winners are drawn to Coastal Mississippi, to Central Louisiana, to small town Acadiana for a very particular reason: it’s where they grew up. After acquiring experience in the restaurant business elsewhere, they each felt a calling to open something new, innovative, and elevated in their own small town—bringing with them new experiences, economic opportunities, and ways to support local food producers. Take chefs Stephanie and Michael Paoletti, for starters, whose pop up experience, Food, Booze & Hiccups, in Ocean Springs is featured on our cover. Their creative take on dining experiences allows them the flexibility to curate intimate interactions with food selected precisely for its locality, seasonality, and its intrigue. Read more on this year’s Small Town Chef Award Winners in our Features section, starting on page 30.

Cuisine

CAJUN PATÉ The traditional delicacy of hog’s head cheese

44 48

by Kristy Christiansen

SUPPER REIMAGINED 3 Unconventional NOLA dining experiences by Alexandra Kennon and Jyl Benson

RAISING THE BAHR Catching up with Monroe’s celebrity chef by Chris Jay

Culture

50 54 55

THE VILLAGE OF VERSAILLES A world within a world in New Orleans East

by Jason Christian

NOTES ON THE WEATHER Searching for a chance of rain

by Ed Cullen

CHAMPION ON MUDDY WATERS Meet Hanna Straltsova, the #2 ranked woman water skier in the world. by Beth D’Addono

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY SATCHMO The history of Louis Armstrong’s chosen July 4 Birthday

Associate Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

Managing Editor

Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Arts & Entertainment Editor

Alexandra Kennon

Creative Director

Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Jyl Benson, Jason Christian, Kristy Christiansen, Paul Christiansen, Ed Cullen, Beth D’Addono, Shannon Fender, April Hamilton, Sam Irwin, Chris Jay, Emily Kask, Paul Kieu, Kimberly Meadowlark, Hays Porter, Katherine Swetman, Elizabeth Chubbuck Weinstein

Cover Artist

Katherine Swetman

Advertising

SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

Sales Team

Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons

Custom Content Coordinator

Lauren Heffker

Advertising Coordinator

Laci Felker

President

Dorcas Woods Brown

Country Roads Magazine 758 Saint Charles Street Baton Rouge, LA 70802 Phone (225) 343-3714 Fax (815) 550-2272 EDITORIAL@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM WWW.COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

by Sam Irwin

Escapes

58 62

TOURS IN THE HEARTLAND A new agritourism venture, hosted by local musicians by April Hamilton

PERSPECTIVES The legacy of Angela Gregory‚—sculptor, artist, and trailblazer by Elizabeth Chubbuck Weinstein

Subscriptions

21.99 for 12 months $ 39.58 for 24 months $

ISSN #8756-906X

Copyrighted. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced without permission of the publisher. The opinions expressed in Country Roads magazine are those of the authors or columnists and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, nor do they constitute an endorsement of products or services herein. Country Roads magazine retains the right to refuse any advertisement. Country Roads cannot be responsible for delays in subscription deliveries due to U.S. Post Office handling of third-class mail.

Mississippi is a mouthful . (And not just because of the four syllables in our name.) You know all about our world-famous fried catﬁsh, supremely satisfying soul food, and mouth-watering barbecue. But that’s just scratching the surface. Mississippi is a true destination for food adventurers, with delectable dining choices reﬂecting the great diversity of our people and our places. Plan your trip today at VisitMississippi.org/Flavors. #WanderMS

Big Apple Inn | Jackson, Mississippi

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Reflections FROM THE PUBLISHER

f there’s any season for living off of the land, surely it is summertime. As I write this column in late June hthere are fillets of fresh-caught bass, bowls of blueberries, and foraged chanterelle mushrooms in our fridge. The chickens are making a dozen eggs a day, the fencerows are bristling with ripe blackberries, and a glance at the fig tree next to the barn suggests that by the time this annual “Cuisine” issue comes back from the printer’s, we’ll be up to our ears in figs as well. But right now, it’s tomatoes that’re keeping me up at night. Back in March, contemplating the weird tastelessness of some outwardly perfect grocery store tomatoes and spurred by visions of luscious tomato sandwiches and salads, I planted what seemed like a reasonable quantity of tomato seedlings— Creoles and Better Boys; with half a dozen Sweet Million cherry tomato plants for good measure. Sixteen plants in all. Mindful of past summer crises involving unmanageable bounties of cucumbers and yellow squash, I didn’t go berserk because I have a pathological horror of wasting food, which I suppose I inherited from my mother, who got it from her own mother, who was probably the last of

my forebears to have experienced any real food scarcity. An inventive and generous cook, my mother is notorious for producing magnificent dishes in large quantity—far too much for any family of five to eat at a sitting—which would then be recycled over and over again as side dishes, served from progressively smaller receptacles, until the Fox-Smith family table began to resemble a tapas bar. To our dogs’ dismay, the prospect of good food going uneaten still fills me with dread— and our fridge with leftover containers. So, the fact that we are currently picking ten pounds of ripe tomatoes a day is both a source of anxiety, and a challenge to be reckoned with. We’ve done all the obvious things. Salads and salsas are daily staples. There is pasta sauce by the gallon. Jars of preserved and sun-dried tomatoes are filling up the pantry. There are tomatoes on toast for breakfast and round-the-clock gazpacho (which makes for fantastic hot-weather quaffing). Lately, any time we leave the house we’ve started taking a couple of paper bags filled with tomatoes, and palming them off on unsuspecting passers-by. But still they come. I’m beginning to get desperate. Somehow I found myself reading about La Tomatina Festival, an event held each August in Buñol, Spain, during which thousands of normally sensible people spend a day pelting one an-

other with ripe tomatoes. Although the origins of La Tomatina Festival are lost to history, apparently the most likely explanation has the event beginning when a Saturday-morning farmer’s market during the height of tomato season erupted into a food fight. You can see how it happens: one minute you can’t get a decent tomato for love or money. The next, there are more than you can eat, cook, can, or give away. Suddenly those soft, ripe, tennis-ball-sized globes piling up on the counters start looking less like fruit, and more like ammunition. It’s a slippery slope that we haven’t yet started down, but if this goes on much longer it’s only a matter of time. Louisiana has its own tomato festival—the Creole Tomato Festival— which happens each June at New Orleans’ French Market and is a weekend’s

worth of tasty times in the form of cooking demos, tomato-eating contests, and food booths showing off various delicious things that one can do with Louisiana Creole tomatoes. But in this instance New Orleans seems to be allowing itself to be outdone by the good people of Buñol, since so far as I’m aware, the Creole Tomato Festival does not encourage attendees to start throwing tomatoes at one another. Given the abundance of Louisiana’s tomato crop, this would seem to be not only a potential solution to the summer glut, but a tourism opportunity, too. None of this will last, of course. Between the heat, the humidity, and the inevitable arrival of stink bugs and hornworms—both of which have turned up in my garden during the past few days— the bounty can’t hold much longer. In a couple of weeks—maybe even by the time you read this—my tomato problem will be a thing of the past. I’ll be missing them already. So, this week we’ll relish the summertime bounty, make another sandwich, and maybe work on canning just one more batch to get us through the long, flavorless months to come. Now, if we can just work out what to do with all the damn figs … —James Fox-Smith, publisher james@countryroadsmag.com

New from the

University Press of Mississippi

Available at your local bookseller. 6

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upress.state.ms.us

6/13/22 12:57 PM

A special advertising feature from Pennington Biomedical Research Center

Food for Thought at Pennington Biomedical’s Metabolic Kitchen Tips from a registered dietitian at Pennington Biomedical Research Center to use in your own kitchen.

or almost four decades, LSU’s Pennington Biomedical Research Center has been at the forefront of health and nutrition research. A core component of the Center’s work takes place in the Metabolic Kitchen, which creates and serves specialized meals to support various studies and helps produce valid scientific results. Registered Dietitian Renée Puyau gives us a glimpse into her day-to-day as Director of the Metabolic Kitchen, which can produce up to a whopping two hundred and twenty-five meals per day in a state-of-the-art facility. Ensuring that each and every meal meets nutritional requirements for its specific trial requires plenty of cooks in the kitchen, but after fifteen years of working at the Center, Puyau has it down to a science. From Pennington’s Metabolic Kitchen to your home kitchen, several principles are useful for both. Planning (and consistency) are key. The bulk of Puyau’s work is in the planning stages—in order to fulfill the requirements of each study protocol, the kitchen uses a nutritional analysis program to precisely plan menus and recipes. “The foods that we use are chosen very specifically to match our menu planning software,” Puyau says. “That way, we know that our study participants are receiving exactly what we need them to receive in terms of calories, protein, fat, and carbohydrates.” To ensure consistency, they weigh out all of the foods for the participants to a tenth of a gram. Now, that level of precision is likely not realistic for the vast majority of us who are not participating in a scientific study. However, it does translate with this key takeaway: making a plan and sticking to it are both essential habits to adapting a healthier diet. Don’t be afraid to get creative with your approach. Puyau and her team often have to get creative with how they incorporate certain foods or ingredients so that the recipe meets study requirements, while still being a tasty and filling meal for participants. For example, Puyau says, if your plan or goal is to cut back on the amount of meat in your diet, one potential solution is to replace half of the meat in a burger with a starch such as beans or potatoes. Or, in another scenario, Puyau says that the team finds breakfast muffins to be popular with participants, who are often surprised at how full they feel. Puyau’s secret? Adding unflavored whey protein powder to the muffin batter. Protein aids satiety, so this is the route to go if you want to feel satisfied after eating without doubling your portion size. Batch freezer-friendly meals ahead of time. Your future self will thank you. Another factor Puyau and her team must take into consideration is how often participants are picking up their meals, which varies depending upon the study. If a research trial allows the participant to eat at home and requires them to pick up meals just once a week, for instance, Puyau has to prepare enough meals in bulk that can be eaten up to six days later. This is where freezer-friendly meals come in. “Frozen fruits and veggies are just as nutritious, can taste just as good as fresh ones, and are often easier to cook with since they’re pre-cut, which cuts down on cooking time during the week,” Puyau says. Thaw and throw it in the oven and boom—you’re done. Healthy eating doesn’t have to be an all-or-nothing mindset. “My favorite advice for people looking to eat a healthier diet is that it’s always easier to add something in than to take it away,” Puyau says. Rather than restricting all “bad” foods, she says, start by adding in a serving of fruit and vegetables here and there, she recommends. “If you eat a slice of pizza with salad on the side, the pizza doesn’t cancel the salad out,” Puyau says. “It still counts, and aiming for a more balanced, rather than strictly clean diet, is more realistic day-to-day.”

If you’re looking to live a healthier lifestyle but struggle with certain aspects such as implementing a nutritious diet or maintaining a regular fitness routine, participating in a study at Pennington Biomedical is a great way to hold yourself accountable. Even better, study participants are usually compensated upon completion of the program; compensation varies depending on the involvement level and duration of the study. Visit www.pbrc.edu/kitchen for tons of healthy recipes like chicken parmesan muffins, teriyaki salmon and pineapple skewers, and more. Watch virtual cooking demonstrations for recipes from the Metabolic Kitchen, including Crunchy Chicken Slaw Wraps, Spring Rolls, Veggie Pasta Salad, and more on YouTube by searching for “Pennington Rolling Store”

To learn more, go to pbrc.edu/clinicaltrials

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Noteworthy

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N E W S , T I M E LY T I D B I T S , A N D O T H E R

CURIOSITIES

LO O K C LO S E R

The Sweet Spot Cocktail Trail COLD, CREATIVELY-CRAFTED DRINKS AT THE HEIGHT OF SUMMER? SEE YOU IN ASCENSION!

The Sweet Spot Cocktail at Don’s Seafood is a Lemonberry Old Fashioned. Photo courtesy of the Ascension Parish Tourism Commission.

n between the rippling seas of Ascension Parish’s sugarcane fields are its vibrant urban centers, rich with heritage and teeming with tradition. And within those towns— Gonzales, Donaldsonville, Sorrento, Prairieville, Darrow—you can visit fascinating museums, historic homes, high caliber restaurants. You can also get a damn good drink. This summer, the Ascension Parish Tourism Commission has collaborated with some of the region’s best mixologists to curate the Louisiana Sweet Spot Cocktail Trail. Which means it’s time to call

The Fest Returns!

your favorite sober friend (mocktails for the win!), hit play on your favorite summer playlist, and embark on a spirited Saturday (or Sunday, or Monday—there are no rules) road trip. Don’t forget your passport, which can be picked up at any of the participating businesses, the Ascension Parish Visitor & Tourism Center, or downloaded online. Collect a stamp for every specialty “Sweet Spot Cocktail” you try, and receive a commemorative glass for your efforts—as well as a chance to win the grand prize giveaway, valued at over $300.

Sipping Lemonberry Old Fashioneds at Don’s, Back Porch Lemonade at Grapevine Café and Gallery, and Pineapple Jalapeño Mojitos at Sno’s—consider yourself a cocktail connoisseur for the day. Pick your favorites, make some friends, ride the buzz, and soak in these last days of summer from the cool vantage of our regional restaurants and bars. The Louisiana Sweet Spot Cocktail Trail experience lasts through July 29, when all passports are due. For more information, visit visitlasweetspot.com/ cocktailtrail. —Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

It’ll be bottoms up at The Myrtles during the fourth annual St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival. Photo by Raegan Labat.

THE ST. FRANCISVILLE FOOD AND WINE FEST, THAT IS

ere’s a recipe for a good time: Take eighteen standout chefs from acclaimed Louisiana hand Mississippi restaurants. Blend their best dishes with fifty distinctive wines, then add a healthy splash of flavor courtesy of a dozen regional microbreweries and craft distilleries. Pile on some award-winning barbecue. Season generously with live music and let rise. Then, roll the whole concoction out at one of the most beautiful outdoor locations in Louisiana at the height of fall, and add people. That’s the recipe for the fourth annual St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival— the autumntime event co-produced by

The Myrtles Historic Inn and Country Roads magazine and billed as “Louisiana’s most beautiful culinary festival”. This year’s festival returns to the spectacular grounds of The Myrtles in midNovember, packing in more celebrated chefs, notable wine pairings, craft beers and distinctive local spirits than ever before. As in past years, the festival serves as a showcase for Louisiana and Mississippi flavors, presented at chef-manned tasting stations which are arrayed around The Myrtles property. Glass in-hand, attendees get to wander from station to station, sampling dishes while getting to know the culinary geniuses behind some of the region’s best-known restaurants.

Primal Nights

A NEW KIND OF TRINITY AT BACCHANAL IN NEW ORLEANS’ NINTH WARD

hen Hurricane Maria devastated Puerto Rico in 2017, Louisianans rose to the occasion with an outpouring of support and aid. We understand perhaps better than anyone what it’s like to have your home battered by storms, after all. Even some of the least-expected organizations put together initiatives to help our Puerto Rican neighbors in Maria’s aftermath— including Bacchanal, New Orleans’ laidback Ninth Ward wine bar and backyard

music venue. The result was Primal Nights, a fundraising initiative for which Bacchanal invited different big-name chefs into their kitchen to create exciting dishes, the proceeds of which initially went toward the international nonprofit Pure Water 4 Kids, which provided much-needed resources following Hurricane Maria. The first collaboration was so successful that Bacchanal kept Primal Nights rolling, and since that first fundraiser, the special events have raked in over $100,000 for

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Between the dishes, beverage stations pour dozens of carefully-selected wines. In the Craft Beer & Brats garden, seasonal beers and ales from a dozen regional breweries flow while a live band keeps the beat. New for 2022, this year’s festival adds a five-course winemaker dinner featuring Keenan Family Winery of Napa Valley, CA (Friday, Nov. 11), a

Bubbles & Barbecue Festival showcasing six acclaimed barbecue chefs and a free-flowing champagne bar (Saturday), and a “Louisiana Spirits” cocktail and spirits-tasting courtyard (Sunday). Tickets for all events go on sale July 1 at stfrancisvillefoodandwine.com.Don’t wait; this event sells out every year. —James Fox-Smith

local and international causes including the New Orleans Musicians Clinic, the Emeril Lagasse Foundation, Capoiera and Brazilian Cultural Arts Center New Orleans, Bike Easy, Puerto Rico Hurricane Relief, No Kid Hungry, Planned Parenthood, NAMI, and many others. “Since we started, Primal Nights have been an enjoyable way for us to collaborate with friends, give back to the community and pay homage to Bacchanal’s humble food beginnings,” said Managing Partner of Bacchanal Joaquin Rodas. “This year, in honor of our twentieth [anniversary], we’re partnering with more chefs and look forward to raising even more money for organizations near and dear to our hearts.”

As Bacchanal rounds out two full decades of uncorking European wines and slinging charcuterie boards, the self-described “wine lab” is bringing Primal Nights back in time for summer of 2022. Chefs for July include Alfredo Nogeira of the Cure Group (July 12) and Jonathan Zaragoza of Birrieria Zaragoza in Chicago (July 26), with the ACLU and The Power Coalition as the first charity partners. The series runs every Tuesday through November, inviting a dazzling series of guest chefs to host different exciting pop-up dinners each week—bridging community, philanthropy, and food; surely another one of New Orleans’ favorite trinities. bacchanalwine.com. —Alexandra Kennon

Announcing the fourth annual

November 11—13, 2022

at the Myrtles, St. Francisville, LA

Celebrated Louisiana & Mississippi Chefs • Notable Wines • Craft Beers & Ales Live Bands • Craft Cocktails • Whiskey Tastings • AND MORE

Featured Chefs Cory Bahr • Amanda Cusey • Katie Dixon • Jay Ducote • Doug Hosford • Galen Iverstine • Jeff Mattia Elizabeth McKinley • Stephanie & Michael Paoletti • Eric Sibley • Grant Wallace • and MORE

TICKETS ON SALE JULY 1 WWW.STFRANCISVILLEFOODANDWINE.COM

Presented

with

Generous suPPort From

Paretti Jaguar Land Rover Baton Rouge

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Take a look at our program by scanning the QR code with your phone!

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For further details, contact our program director Dr. Ann-Marie Blanchard: ann-marie.blanchard@franu.edu

Events

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SUMMERTIME KIDS'

N O T O N LY B R I N G S

CAMPS, CONCERTS, AND

L I V I N ' S E A SY

EASY LIVIN', BUT FESTIVALS, BBQ ART EXHIBITIONS, TOO.

COOK-OFFS,

REALTY

INDEPENDENCE DAY 4th of July events across the Gulf South

EDNA J. MURRAY, BROKER cell. 601-807-2245 oﬃce. 601-888-0990 328 MAIN STREET, NATCHEZ, MS 39120

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BUYING OR SELLING?

Outstanding Realtors,

From parades, to small-town festivals, to barbecue cook-offs, to grand fireworks displays lighting up the skies across Louisiana and Mississippi—here are our picks to celebrate July 4. Photo by Frank McKenna.

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2nd - JUL 4th

INDEPENDENCE DAY FOURTH OF JULY IN FELICIANAS, NATCHEZ & POINTE COUPEE 4th of July Bash at The Francis July 2: The Francis Southern Table & Bar and Gerry Lane are teaming up to bring an Independence Day party with the music of Chase Tyler Band to St. Francisville. 7 pm. Find the event on Facebook for more information. City of New Roads Independence Day Celebration July 3: The grand boat parade starts at noon, with fireworks shooting off at 6 pm plus music, face-painting, hot air balloons, and more. Find the Pointe Coupée Chamber of Commerce on Facebook for more information. Natchez July 4th on the River July 2–3: Independence Day fireworks and celebrations abound—all from the the lofty heights of the Natchez Bluff. Enjoy two days of live music by beloved acts like Robert Earl Keen, Paul Thorn, Grayson

Capps, Brit Taylor, the B3, Alabama, Drew Parker, and the Will Wesley Band. 2 pm each afternoon. $40–$80. ardenland.net/ natchez4thofjuly. Natchez Fourth of July Fireworks July 4: Miss Lou Fireworks presents its annual display of patriotic fireworks above the Mississippi River. See them from both sides of the river, starting at 9 pm. visitnatchez.org. St. Francisville's Fireworks at the River July 4: St. Francisville continues their tradition of 4th of July fireworks over the Mississippi River at sundown. stfrancisville.net. k

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INDEPENDENCE DAY FOURTH OF JULY ON THE NORTHSHORE Covington's Sparks in the Park July 2: Bogue Falaya Park lights up again this year from 4:30 pm to 9 pm with patriotic music, face painting, watermelon and hotdog eating contests,

Outstanding Results

and more. The evening concludes with a fireworks show at dark. louisiananorthshore.com. Slidell Heritage Festival July 2: Inside Heritage Park , join the community in celebration of our nation with live music from Soul Revival, Amanda Shaw, and The Phunky Monkeys, plus food trucks and beverages, water slides and face painting, and of course a fireworks show to cap it all off. Gates open at 4 pm. $10 admission for ages thirteen and older. slidellheritagefest.org. Mandeville's Light Up the Lake July 3: Begin your day on the Mandeville Lakefront at 10 am, when the city clears the way for unfurling your picnic setup. Entertainment begins at 5 pm, with a patriotic recognition followed by live music by Groovy 7. Fireworks at 8:30 pm. Details at the Mandeville Trailhead Facebook Page.

Locally owned & operated with over 20 years experience in real estate & appraisals

Madisonville Old Fashioned 4th of July Celebration July 3: Kids' games and contests from // J U LY 2 2

Events

Through July 4th

horseshoes, to watermelon eating, and beyond begin at 10 am on the banks of the Tchefuncte River. Make sure to bring your chairs and coolers for a special parade presented by Keep Madisonville Beautiful, followed by fireworks at the Riverfront. madisonville4thjuly.com. Abita Springs' 4th of July Celebration July 4: Get patriotic in Abita Springs, with festivities that include live music by Four Unplugged and Christian Serpas & Ghost Town, a classic car show, and fireworks. 2 pm–9 pm. Details at the Town of Abita Springs Facebook Page. k

JUL 3rd - JUL 4th

birthday, WBRZ lights up the sky above the Mississippi River. The fireworks can be viewed from anywhere along the levee, and from Downtown Baton Rouge, starting at 8 pm. visitbatonrouge.com. Rockin on the Rooftop BBQ Bash July 4: Catch WBRZ's fireworks over the Mississippi from the rooftop of the Shaw Center for the Arts, where the LSU Museum of Art will host its annual fundraiser bash—featuring music by Sweet Southern Heat, food by City Pork, and drinks by Three Roll Estate. $60; $50 for museum members; $40 for children ages six to twelve. lsumoa.org.

INDEPENDENCE DAY GREATER BATON ROUGE FOURTH OF JULY Kenilworth Independence Day Parade July 3: Kenilworth is celebrating its Golden Jubilee Independence Day Parade this year. Rolls at 6:30 pm. For route information and more, visit kenilworthneighborhood.com.

Fourth of July Patriots and Pirates July 4: The USS KIDD Veterans Museum has been hosting a 4th of July celebration in the downtown Baton Rouge area for over two decades. Get special access to the Veterans Museum, with refreshments and beverages, then head out to the best fireworks viewing spot in Baton Rouge on the USS Kidd. 5 pm; fireworks at 8 pm. $50. usskidd.com.

Baton Rouge Fourth of July Spectacular July 4: Every year, for our nation's

Baton Rouge Concert Band Independence Day Concert July 4: Join the Baton Rouge Concert

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Band as they celebrate the birth of our nation. Expect patriotic songs, marches, and, of course, John Philips Sousa's "Stars and Stripes Forever." 7:30 pm. Free, in the outdoor plaza at the Main Branch Library at Goodwood. brcb.org. Annual Plaquemine Hometown Celebration July 4: At its annual Hometown Celebration at Bayou Plaquemine Waterfront Park, expect old-fashioned games, a veterans' boat parade, food, crafts, live music, dancing, and a jitterbug contest. 5 pm–9 pm. visitiberville.com. k

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INDEPENDENCE DAY GREATER NEW ORLEANS FOURTH OF JULY 3rd of July in City Park July 3: Yes, you can celebrate our great nation on July 4, but you can also show your pride on July 3, at City Park in New Orleans. Bring your chairs and blankets to enjoy patriotic music with The Marine Corps Band on the Goldring/Woldenberg Great Lawn and fireworks at the Peristyle. A dress code of red, white, and blue is recommended—as is bringing a picnic. 6 pm. Free. neworleanscitypark.com. St. Charles Parish Independence Day

July 3: St. Charles Parish will hold its annual Independence Day celebration at West Bank Bridge Park, featuring performances by popular band Bucktown All-stars and food and drinks sold by local nonprofit organizations. 6 pm–9 pm. 13825 River Road. Free. stcharlesparish-la.gov. Go Fourth on the River July 4: The Mississippi River has long linked the people of this region to the rest of America, and on our great country's birthday, the people of New Orleans invite all to Go Fourth in celebration. Starting at 5 pm in Crescent Park, free live performances will take place by Category 6, Revival, DJs Eagle and Majik Mike, and the Pan Vibrations. Then, starting at 9 pm on both sides of the Great Mississippi, fireworks will shoot and burst in to the sky from the banks and from barges, accompanied by a medley of patriotic songs. Settle in between Governor Nichols St. Wharf and Canal St. Dock. Free. go4thontheriver.com. 4th of July on the Creole Queen July 4: Celebrate independence on the open water, watching fireworks from the decks of the paddlewheeler Creole Queen. This dinner cruise—which sets sail complete with special buffet menu, open call brand bar, and live

entertainment—offers the best seat in the house to view the "Dueling Barges" fireworks display that the City of New Orleans puts on above the Mississippi. $129 per adult, $69 for youth (ages six to twelve), and $20 for children (ages three to five). Boarding from 7 pm to 8 pm, located at Poydras St. Wharf/Spanish Plaza. The riverboat sets sail following the fireworks display. Reservations are required at creolequeen.com. k

JUL

4th

INDEPENDENCE DAY FOURTH OF JULY IN NORLA An Old Fashioned Picnic in Haughton July 2: Recalling a simpler era, this Old Fashioned Picnic celebration of Patriotism brings together games like cornhole and dominos with dynamic speakers and live music. Local authors, artists, and crafters will also have their wares on display. 6799 Highway 157, Haughton. 10 am–4 pm. Free. sbfunguide.com. Sportspectrum Firecracker 5K Race July 4: Don't miss the annual Firecracker 5K at St. Vincent Mall in Shreveport this year, proving patriotism one heated mile at a time. 7:30 am. $12 and up. sbfunguide.com. Shreveport KTBS Freedom Fest

July 4: The fireworks will be coming from towns across the region, across from the Sci-Port Discover Center, backdropped by the lights on the Texas Street Bridge, and in the Brookshire Arena in Bossier City, the Northwood Country Club in Blanchard, over Big Cypress Bayou, and at the Maude Cobb Convention Complex. KTBS will be airing all of it on KTBS and KPXJ, but on the ground locals can celebrate with live performances at the Sci-Port Discovery Center, featuring Kionte Mims and Friends, Jimmy Wooten, Windstorm, The Victory Belles, Cody Wayne, and Michael Love. 3 pm. Free. sbfunguide.com. Let Freedom Run 5K in West Monroe July 4: It's hot out there folks. Embrace the challenge in the name of patriotism for the Let Freedom Run 5K along the banks of the Ouachita River in West Monroe. All proceeds will benefit the projects of Downtown West Monroe, through the Downtown West Monroe Revitalization Group. 8 am. $30. monroe-westmonroe.org. July 4th in Monroe-West Monroe July 4: Settle in downtown on the west or the east side to watch the highly-anticipated annual fireworks show. Free. 9 pm. monroe-westmonroe.org. k

UNTIL JUL

4th

INDEPENDENCE DAY FOURTH OF JULY IN ACADIANA Erath Independence Day Cajun Carnival June 30-July 4: One of the oldest Fourth of July celebrations in Acadiana, this Cajun Carnival in Downtown Erath is set to be chock full of rides, fais do-dos, Fire Department water fights, a fun run, a parade, and more. Look forward to live performances by local musicians the likes of After 8, Ryan Foret, Alligator Blue, Dustin Sonnier, Gerald Gruenig and Gentilly Zydeco, the Chee-Weez, and Souled Out. Cap it all off with a fireworks display the evening of the 4th at 9 pm. Free. erath4.com. St. Landry BBQ Fest July 1–3: St. Landry is upping the stakes for a Fourth of July BBQ, bringing in carnival rides, live music, shopping vendors, a rock-climbing wall, a mechanical bull, and a massive BBQ Cook-Off. It all gets started on Friday with live music by Hunter Courville & Cajun Fever with the Hotline Band, followed by an exciting slate of local musicians like Wayne Singleton and Leroy Thomas. The Cook-Off will feature categories of every sort of pit-friendly meal you can imagine, from beef and seafood to wild game and dessert. It all

closes out on Sunday with a massive fireworks display. At the Yambilee Building in Opelousas. (337) 948-3688. stlandrybbqfestival.com. New Iberia's 4th of July Salt Water Fishing Rodeo July 1–3: After a yee-haw good time on the water, come full circle with a bit of fais do-do under the pavilion (for an extra independence vibe, call the fish "Cecil" and make fun of its teeth). Quintana Boat Launch at Cypremort Point. Fishing begins at 12:01 am Friday, and ends at 1 pm Sunday. Free. (337) 207-6206 or iberiarodandgunclub.com. Celebration in the Park July 2: Morgan City does it up with food trucks, bands, and kids' activities from 1 pm at Lawrence Park. Live music kicks off at 4 pm. Fireworks will erupt over the river starting at 9 pm. Free. cajuncoast.com. Jennings Stars & Stripes Celebration and Fireworks Show July 2: An outdoor community festival at Founders Park, with live music from 4 pm–9 pm and a "Celebrate America" Fireworks Show held by the Jennings Fire department at the Jennings Airport. Free. (337) 821-5532. jeffdavis.org. Youngsville Sugar Mill Pond Independence Celebration

Childhood comes and goes in a blink. We’re here through the stages of your life, with the strength of the cross, the protection of the shield. The Right Card. The Right Care.

01MK7641 11/21

// J U LY 2 2

Elizabethan Gallery More Than Just A Frame Shop

ONE DAY FRAMING AVAILABLE

A Walk in the Waves, 22x28, Oil by Claire Pasqua

Giraffe, 4x12, Oil by Heather Connole

A PIC T URE IS WOR T H A T HOUSAND WORDS... ESPECIALLY IN A FRAME!

Frame your summer vacation, wedding, and camp memories!

680 Jefferson Highway, BR, LA 70806 • 225-924-6437 • Elizabethangallery.com

Events

Through July 6th July 3: Meet at Sugar Mill Pond and, before lighting up the night, enjoy music from Radio Zydeco, family-friendly activities, and pop up vendors. 5 pm– 9 pm. Free. Details at the Sugar Mill Pond Facebook Page.

Songbird Music School returns as part of Arts for All, offering the following sessions and new special options this year:

Uncle Sam's Jam July 4: Settle in to Parc International in Lafayette with food and drink offerings from nearby restaurants and bars—all tipping a hat to old Uncle Sam while we're at it. End the night with your eyes to the sky. 5 pm–9 pm. Free. lafayettetravel.com.

July 2–3: Choose from the following classes held in the BirdMan and 3V cabins for $225 (all four for $350): Advanced Guitar with Clay Parker. Voice with Heather Feierabend. Ukelele with Kat Carlson. Cabin Orchestra for Beginners with David Hinson (form a band and learn beginning guitar or bass). The Jam Camp with Adrian Percy and Michael Holmes.

New Iberia Fourth of July Parade July 4: Patriotic harmonies are set to make their way through Bouligny Plaza in honor of the birth of our nation. An Honor Guard ceremony will follow. Downtown New Iberia. 2 pm–5 pm. Free. (337) 367-0308. iberiatravel.com. Lake Charles Red, White, Blue & You Celebration July 4: Voted one of the "STS Top 20 Events" for the month of July by the Southeast Tourism Society—this festival celebration paints the town patriotic with a star-spangled street parade, live music by Gyth Rigdon, concessions, face painting, and a huge fireworks display over the lake. 6 pm at the Lake Charles Civic Center. Free. visitlakecharles.org. Broussard Independence Festival July 4: A big ole birthday party for the nation, Broussard-style. Family friendly activities (like hot dog eating contests), live music by Three Thirty Seven, and fireworks at the St. Julien Park Sports Complex. 6 pm–9 pm. Free. Details at the Broussard Chamber of Commerce Facebook Page. Krotz Springs Fireworks on the River July 4: The name says it all—head out to the Atchafalaya for a sportsman's paradise fireworks show in Nall Park, 562 Front Street. The little town goes the whole nine yards with hot dogs, watermelon, and live local music. 6:30 pm–8 pm. cajuntravel.com. k

Other Events: UNTIL JUL

CREATIVE CLASSES SONGBIRD MUSIC SCHOOL Saint Francisville, Louisiana

Calling all musicians, beginner-level all the way to seasoned professionals! the BirdMan undergoes its seasonal transformation from coffeehouse to music studio for musicians looking to hone their skills, or pick up new ones. The annual 14

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

June 30–July 1: Songwriting Class with Eric Schmitt and Heather Feierabend in 3V cabin #10. $200.

More classes may be added. 8 am– 4 pm, includes breakfast and lunch. Register at bontempstix.com or email Lynn for more information at birdmancoffeeshop@gmail.com. k

UNTIL JUL

15th

COMMUNITY EXIHBITS PROUD FAMILIES: BLOOD, FOUND OR MADE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Six Louisiana artists are exploring the complexities of what family means for the LGBTQ+ community for this Pride exhibit up now at the Cary Saurage Community Arts Center. artsbr.org. k

JUL 18th-JUL 22nd

KID STUFF ARTSPLOSION! SUMMER CAMP Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Fill the kids' summer days with arts and crafts, dance, music, museums, and more—through the Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge's Artsplosion! Camp at the Cary Saurage Community Arts Center. For kids in kindergarten through fifth grade. 8 am–3:30 pm each day, with before and aftercare available for an additional charge. $250 per child, with discounts available for multi-session and multi-child registration. artsbr.org/ artsplosioncamp. k

UNTIL JUL

31st

SCULPTURE EXHIBITIONS CLAY AS CANVAS Arnaudville, Louisiana

Artist Kathleen Guinnane discovered NUNU Arts & Culture Collective by chance, because Arnaudville was the halfway point between she and her now-husband's respective homes in New Orleans and Natchitoches. Now the pair calls Arnaudville home,

SOAK it up

LET YOUR HAIR DOWN. Explore, discover and … exhale.

VisitLakeCharles.org

// J U LY 2 2

Events

Lafayette, Louisiana

Olin John “Leroy” Evans was a prolific Lafayette painter who gained a close-knit circle of lifelong patrons, who were known to frequently purchase his artwork—often in the knick of time for him to make rent, hence the title of this exhibition at the Acadiana Center for the Arts. While his work was rarely exhibited during his life, it was and is much-celebrated by his many supporters. Evan's technique is rooted in traditional still life, portraiture, and landscape painting, yet he is known to incorporate elements of the macabre and whimsy. Acadian Courir de Mardi Gras

A selection of Shawne Major's new works will be displayed alongside works by the Lafayette Parish School System's Talented Visual Art students. hilliardmuseum.org. k

in the air-conditioned comfort of the Historic New Orleans Collection's Exposition Center. The sculpture by New Orleans artist and urban planner Robert Tannen (b.1937), comprises representations of all the noteworthy structures adjacent to the square—the Pontalba buildings, Cabildo, Presbytère, and St. Louis Cathedral—as well as the riverfront levee and the square’s statue of Andrew Jackson. The entire sculpture spans ten-by-twelve feet, and the tallest structure, St. Louis Cathedral, stands five feet tall. The long levee comprises the fourth side of the square and reminds the viewer of the city’s deeply elemental relationship with the river. The sculpture is accompanied by a brief history of the square and an exploration of its urban development, as well as interactive stations where visitors can share their responses to the work and create their own models of significant urban spaces. Free. hnoc.org. k

UNTIL AUG

JUL 1st - JUL 29th

JUL

New Orleans, Louisiana

Lafayette, Louisiana

Too hot outside to explore New Orleans' most iconic location? No sweat. Robert Tannen's Jackson Square is to be explored

The Grouse Room's spirit is built upon the traditions of the Chiasson family, traditions that revel in the pleasures

The Hideaway on Lee in downtown Lafayette keeps its schedule full of both established and emerging artists. Wednesday

Beginning July 1st and Kathleen's once-considered "hobby" of working with clay is being celebrated with an exhibition of her work at NUNU. The title comes from Guinnane's wide range in subject choices, from dignified abstract figure sculptures to more lighthearted and fun creations—including a clay taco. nunuaccollective.homesteadcloud.com. k

UNTIL

AUG 13th

ART EXHIBITIONS PAINTING RENT

traditions are a repeated theme in his work, as well as characters from popular culture. The works in this exhibition are on loan from a circle of collectors who knew Evans, and many were childhood friends. They’ve allowed AcA to pull together many works not seen before in public, providing a thorough view of Evans' oeuvre and creative process. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

UNTIL AUG

25th

ART EXHIBITIONS HILLIARD SUMMER EXHIBITION

28th

ARCHITECTURE EXHIBITS ROBERT TANNEN'S JACKSON SQUARE

CONCERTS LIVE ACTS AT THE GROUSE ROOM

Tables bring families together. We Handcraft our Cypress Tables with your family in mind. Choose a piece from our showroom or have a custom piece built. From our family to yours.

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

of good whiskey and good company. Honoring the late John Chiasson, a Lafayette native who made a name for himself as a world-renowned photographer, the upscale nightclub features his work across the walls. Each month brings a new slate of local and international acts— ranging from comedy to covers to original ballads. Shows start at 9 pm. Find the schedule, here: July 1: Cowboy Mouth, $15. July 2: Hunter DeBlanc's Janky Piano Show–Early 2000s Edition, Free. July 6: Hunter DeBlanc, Free. July 7: Awaken The Giant with Soul Giant and Stella Vir, $10. July 8: That 90's Show, $10. July 16: LA ROXX, $15 July 21: The Bucks, $10 July 29: Andrew Duhon and the Big Band–Emerald Blue Record Release Tour, $12. thegrouseroom.com. k

1st - JUL 16th

CONCERTS LIVE MUSIC AT THE HIDEAWAY ON LEE

JUL

1st - JUL 31st

LIVE MUSIC TIPITINA'S CONCERT SCHEDULE New Orleans, Louisiana

The famous Tchoupitoulas venue continues bringing a wide variety of New Orleans' favorite musical acts to Professor Longhair's legendary stage. Here's what's happening:

The tiny town of Lebeau is bringing their Lebeau Zydeco Festival back to the hometown of legend Rockin' Sydney to two-step for the thirtieth year. Image courtesy of the St. Landry Parish Tourist Commission. See listing on page 18.

1st - JUL 17th

and Thursday nights are free; other nights are $10 at the door, with every dollar going to the band. Upcoming shows (8 pm) here:

JUL

TOURING ACTS JULY AT L'AUBERGE

July 16: Marlon Wayans; doors at 7 pm,

July 2: The Bucks July 15: ŒUVAL July 16: Mia Borders

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

July 17: Tom Segura; doors at 5 pm, show

Take a break from the casino floor (or skirt the slots altogether) for these shows:

at 6 pm. $55.

hideawayonlee.com. k

July 1: Marc Broussard; doors at 8 pm,

lbatonrouge.com. k

show at 9 pm. $20. show at 8 pm. $35.

July 22: The Temptations. $35.

July 1: Free Friday: Stooges Brass Band + LeTrainiump. 9 pm. July 2: Talib Kweli (DJ Set). 11 pm. July 8: Free Friday: Honey Island Swamp Band + The Crooked Vines. 9 pm. July 15: Free Friday: Brass-A-Holics + Anjelika “Jelly” Joseph. 9 pm. July 16: Tab Benoit + Eric Johanson. 9 pm. July 22: Free Friday: The Funky Uncle AllStars + The Quickening. 9 pm. July 24: Circle Jerks with 7 Seconds & Negative Approach. 8 pm. July 29: Free Friday: Water Seed + Dominic Minix. 9 pm. July 31: Fais Do Do With Bruce Daigrepont Cajun Band. 5:15 pm. tipitinas.com. k

JUL

1st- JUL 31st

FLOWER POWER NATCHEZ INTERNATIONAL CREPE MYRTLE FESTIVAL Natchez, Mississippi

No other United States city can boast

// J U LY 2 2

Scan For Details

Ending July 29

COMPLETE THE TRAIL & ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN THE GRAND PRIZE!

UPCOMING

EVENTS

July 2

Fireworks on the River | Donaldsonville

July 30

A Louisiana Saturday Night | Gonzales

August 2 - 7

National Bikers Roundup | Gonzales For More Info: VisitLaSweetSpot.com

Events

Beginning July 1st - July 8th an extraordinary display of crepe myrtles blooming like Natchez can. So, this summer, several self-guided free tours throughout the historic town stand as the basis for experiencing Natchez during its 2022 Crepe Myrtle Blooming Season. Maps and updates soon available at visitnatchez.org. k

JUL 1st - JUL 31st

LOCAL HISTORY SUMMER DRESS EXHIBITION AND TOURS New Orleans, Louisiana

During the heat of New Orleans' nineteenth-century summers, enslaved individuals and later domestic servants would have changed the interior of Gallier House to "summer dress". The seasonal housekeeping practice was a way of protecting the home at a time when all of the windows remained open for airf low. As the summer heat descends, historic Gallier House in the French Quarter is being changed over to summer dress for a special, seasonal tour that documents the laborious practice and other summertime realities of the French Quarter's past. Fridays– Mondays, 9:30 am–3:30 pm. hgghh.org. k

JUL 1st - AUG 28th ART EXHIBITIONS A BIRD IN HAND Arnaudville, Louisiana

Mixed-media artist Janelle Hebert honed her skills for decades as an artist in Jackson Square. Following Katrina, she and her husband returned to her native St. Martinville, and after discovering NUNU Arts and Culture Collective, the pair promptly relocated to Arnaudville. In her new exhibit there, Hebert combines paper, clay, paint, and textiles to create unique bird sculptures and mobiles. An artist reception will be held from 11 am–4 pm on July 9. nunuaccollective.homesteadcloud.com. k

JUL 2nd

FESTIVALS LEBEAU ZYDECO FESTIVAL Lebeau, Louisiana

Immaculate Conception Church does it again, luring zydeco lovers back to this tiny central Louisiana hamlet for a thirtieth year with a top-notch lineup of zydeco heavy-hitters. Bring your Toot Toot (and don't mess with mine) out to the home of legend Rockin' Sydney. $20; children $10. Starts at 9 am and goes on into the night. cajuntravel.com. k 18

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

JUL

2nd - JUL 23rd

FARMERS MARKETS FRESH FEST Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Throughout the early weeks of summer, when the bounty of Louisiana farms reaches its peak, the Red Stick Farmers Market hosts a series of themed events at its Saturday downtown markets. From local chefs demonstrations to live music, art, and garden activities—each week will celebrate one of our regional crops. See the schedule at breada.org. k

JUL

8th

CONCERTS SETH FINCH AT CHORUM HALL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Rising piano star Seth Finch will be accompanied by Quinn Sternberg on bass and Simon Lott on drums for this concert at Chorum Hall. $20–$30. 7:30 pm. bontempstix.com. k

JUL

8th

GO FISH KIDS FISHING TOURNAMENT Pearl River, Louisiana

This summer, Liars and Lunkers is presenting their annual Lock One Kids Fishing Tournament at Pearl River. Children up to the age of twelve can fish with a chance of winning a cash prize, no qualifications required. 6 am–11 am. Free. For details, contact Chad Hartzog at (985) 502-3217. k

JUL

8th

CONCERTS DRIVIN' N' CRYIN AT THE MANSHIP THEATRE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Drivin’ N’ Cryin’ is bringing their songbook of Georgia heritage to Baton Rouge at the Hartley/Vey Studio Theatre. Get ready for a night of hard and alternative rock, as well as acoustic country folk, all combined into one show, with lyrics from songwriter Kevin Kinney. Expect supporting performances from Indie Roots Rock band and Katy Guillen & The Drive. 7:30 pm. $25. manshiptheatre.org. k

JUL 8th

GREEN THUMBS ST. TAMMANY MASTER GARDENERS’ SUMMER SEMINAR Madisonville, Louisiana

The St. Tammany Master Gardener Association is holding their Gardening for Success seminar at Madisonville’s Lake Pontchartrain Basin Maritime

A Special Advertising Feature from Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center

Recipe for Recovery Houma native Dominique Schexnayder is a mother of three, a chef and certified sommelier, and a restaurant proprietor. Now she’s also a breast cancer survivor, thanks to the team at Terrebonne General l Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center.

hen she was nine months pregnant with the last of her three children, Houma resident Dominique Schexnayder discovered a lump in her breast. At the time, she assumed it was a swollen milk duct; but when the lump was still there after nursing her daughter for six months, Schexnayder decided to go in for a mammogram. On October 1, 2021, doctors found two tumors as well as an axillary node, or a lymph node in her underarm. Following the mammogram, doctors took biopsies of the tumors and node; all came back positive. Over the next sixteen weeks, she received eight rounds of chemotherapy, followed by a single mastectomy surgery with an axillary lymph node removal in early 2022. Schexnayder helms two restaurants located in downtown Houma—Dominique’s Bistro (formerly Dominique’s Cafe) and Cuvee Bistro—along with Boutique Dominique, a gourmet food and wine shop she opened last July. In addition to overseeing daily operations for the three small businesses, Dominique also offers catering and custom cakes, hosts private events, and curates monthly multi-course wine dinners. If it sounds like a lot for one person—not to mention someone fighting breast cancer—you’d be right. But the mother of three says she couldn’t have done any of it without a strong support system, both at work and at home. “My family has a genetic mutation of the BRCA gene, which gives us a much higher chance of getting breast cancer and ovarian cancer,” Schexnayder says. Her older sister, Abbie, was also diagnosed three years ago with breast cancer. “She has been my biggest support through all of this, walking with me every step of the way.” After her diagnosis, Schexnayder could no longer eat the same foods; luckily, the Cancer Center assigned her a clinical dietitian, Allison Cazenave, RDN, LDN, to help guide Schexnayder through her treatment with nutrition support every step of the way. Cazenave is one of eight board-certified specialists in oncology nutrition in the state, and the only one in the Houma-Thibodaux area with this certification. “My job is to make recommendations that address the side effects of cancer treatment and to provide maximum nutrition for each patient based on their type of cancer,” Cazenave says. “My patients are the reason I enjoy going to work every day.”

“Allison was very supportive in encouraging me to make healthy choices when I could to build up my immune system, but to not focus so much about what I was eating so much as that I was actually eating.” Growing up, Schexnayder says, food was a huge part of her life. “My great-grandfather had a huge garden that he tended to until he was ninety-two years old!” she says with a laugh. “My mom had a catering company and a cooking show on our local television station. I was always surrounded by the best food.” Amid the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic in 2020, Schexnayder created the Feeding the Bayou initiative to support the Bayou Region’s frontline workers at area hospitals using donations from the community, keeping local restaurants afloat in the process. Schexnayder advocated for her community when it mattered most—so when she found herself in the reverse position, her neighbors were there to return the gesture. “When you think your life has flipped upside down,” she says, “everyone rallies together to flip you back right side up.” Schexnayder recently finished treatment. In September, she will undergo surgery again to have a prophylactic mastectomy of the other breast, removal of the radiated implant, and reconstruction of both breasts.

marybird.org/houma // J U LY 2 2

Events

Beginning July 8 - July 9 th

Museum, where guests will be able to listen to expert speakers and table talks. 8 am–noon. $20. stmastergardener.org. k

JUL 8 - JUL 10 th

GET CRAFTY NEW ORLEANS BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW Kenner, Louisiana

The Pontchartrain Center will host the return of the popular New Orleans Bead & Jewelry Show. Produced by C & S Events, the wholesale show features fine jewelry, fashion jewelry, beads, beading supplies, gold, silver, charms, designer cabochons, gemstones, pearls, and more. Some vendors offer classes. July 8 and 9 from 10 am–6 pm; July 10 from 10 am– 4 pm. $5. beadandgemshow.com. k

JUL 8th - JUL 10th

ROLLER RAGE SAN FERMIN: NOLA RUNNING OF THE BULLS New Orleans, Louisiana

The popular fiesta is modeled after the San Fermín festival and its running of the bulls in Pamplona, Spain. But releasing

raging bulls through the streets of the French Quarter would be copying, so local organizers went for bat-wielding roller derby girls instead. Resplendent in horned helmets and armed with whiffle ball bats, the Big Easy Rollergirls unleash their fury on any slow-moving stragglers. "Bulls" are released at 6:30 am at the Sugar Mill. $30–$95 to register (required) at nolabulls.com. k

JUL 9th

CONCERTS BLUE OYSTER CULT Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Rock out with Blue Oyster Cult at the River Center Theatre. For over fifty years the classic rockers from Long Island have been thrilling fans with hits like "(Don't Fear) The Reaper," "Godzilla," and "Burnin' for You." Founding members Donald "Buck Dharma" Roeser on vocals and lead guitar and Eric Bloom on vocals and rhythm guitar are joined by Richie Castellano on guitar and keyboards, and longtime rhythm section of bass guitarist Danny Miranda and drummer Jules Radino. 8 pm. Tickets start at

$34.50 at ticketmaster.com. raisingcanesrivercenter.com. k

JUL 9th

Covington, Louisiana

CHEERS KOKOMO STROLL

CHECK MATE CHESS FEST New Orleans, Louisiana

The Historic New Orleans Collection's Chess Club celebrates the long legacy of chess playing in New Orleans established by historic international chess champion Paul Morphy with their first-ever Chess Fest. Craft your own chessboard, compete in a friendly chess tournament, play "human chess" on a giant chessboard, and more. 10 am–2 pm. Free. Find full schedule and register at hnoc.org. k

JUL 9th

Break out your flip-flops and coconut bras, because island living is coming to the Northshore. In the spirit of summer, the Kokomo Stroll is a leisurely walk through downtown Covington, where participating restaurants and local businesses will provide samples of signature bites and refreshing specialty drinks, with live music to round out the beach experience. If you partake in every cocktail sample, you may actually believe you're on vacation. Attire is "dress down", think beach casual. 5 pm–8:30 pm. $45 at bigtickets.com. k

JUL 9th - JUL 10th

CONCERTS A MIDSUMMER’S NIGHT: JAZZ ON THE BAYOU

GREEN THUMBS ORCHID SHOW & SALE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Musicians like recording artist ScoSax, Sunrise Brass Band, and a professional String Quartet—as well as Mardi Gras Indians and competitive dance team Triple Threat—will be performing at Baton Rouge’s Manship Theatre. Proceeds will go toward local non-profits United Strengths and The Butterfly Society. 8 pm. $45. manshiptheatre.org. k

Find orchids of many varieties for sale, and a competition both for flowers and displays judged by accredited American Orchid Society judges. The display theme is “Backyard Orchids.” Commercial vendors from across the Gulf Coast will have a wide variety of orchid plants for sale. Potting demonstrations will be held throughout, and there will be a raffle. Saturday 9 am–5 pm, and Sunday

YOUR TABLE IS READY. Food shouldn’t just be for thought— it should be for sharing, for celebrating and for savoring. In Monroe West Monroe, Louisiana, you’ll find there’s a meal for every palate and a flavor for every memory.

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

IN THE FIELD

Fred's Lounge

SATURDAY MORNINGS IN THE CAJUN MUSIC CAPITAL OF THE WORLD By Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

hile the rest of the world sleeps off their Friday night shenanigans, or sips coffee on their couch, Fred’s Lounge on Sixth Street pulses with a full-on Cajun dance. All before 9:30 am. Grimy in the way of old, well-loved drinking

establishments—the walls hold a museum of Evangeline Parish ephemera. One of the local Cajun bands occupies the center of the tight, windowless bar—fiddles and drums and guitars and accordions and all. And barely two feet in front of them is the dance floor—where couples of all ages, all localities, and all backgrounds conduct a mesmerizing two-step. In between, longtime radio personality Mark Layne MC’s via

CALENDAR OF EVENTS JUNE 2022 AKA Mixed Martial Arts Fights Paragon Casino Resort July 23, 2022 @ 7:00pm www.paragoncasinoresort.com Fifth Ward Farmers Market Fifth Ward Community Center August 6, 2022 @7am Fifth Ward Community Center

the KVPI morning broadcast—entirely in Cajun French. Beers are being cracked open, Bloody Marys and screwdrivers are sloshing on the counter. Look carefully, and you’ll see a couple of folks pulling bottles of Hot Damn out of their back pockets for a swig. There are the regulars, like Barry and Rita, who will gladly dance with anyone who doesn’t have a partner. The local farmers lean over the counter with their Coors Lights, shouting in Cajun French at one another over the music. Pouring out the door, locals take their cigarette breaks. Frequently, there are visitors, too. Folks from as far away as France or Germany visiting Louisiana—who heard a rumor that this little bar in a farming town was a must-see on their tour of America. Last time I visited, an entire party bus dropped off a group of fraternity brothers doing a boudin tour of Acadiana. The best boudin in the land is just down the road at T-Boy’s, but they had to make a (three-hour) pit stop at Fred’s first. The bar’s been open since 1946, and rendered historically significant for its role as the place where the Courir de Mardi Gras tradition was revived after cultural assimilation

Moreauville Farmers Market Downtown Moreauville August 9 & 16, 2022 (8am-noon) 318.985.2338 Ties & Tiaras Father/Daughter Dance Haas Auditorium in Bunkie August 13, 2022 (6:00pm – 8:00pm) 318.729.3802

threatened its existence across Acadiana. For this reason, Fred’s enjoys the title “Cajun Music Capital of the World”. The radio broadcast has been held on Saturday mornings since 1962, establishing Fred’s Saturday morning hoorah as a fixture on Evangeline Parish’s social calendar. After original owner Fred Tate’s death in 1992, his wife—the Evangeline Parish icon “Tante Sue”—made a business decision to only open for the Saturday morning folks, from 9 am–1:30 pm. The result is a distinguished tradition in one of rural Louisiana’s most overlooked— and most culturally-significant—towns. As our world hurtles toward progress and change—in a little dingy bar in sleepy Mamou, there are four and a half hours where joy and community look exactly the same as they have since 1946. k Visit Fred's Lounge at 420 6th Street Mamou, Louisiana from 9 am–1:30 pm every Saturday. Details can be found via the "Fred's Lounge in Mamou" public Facebook

8592 Hwy 1, Mansura, LA 800.833.4195 travelavoyelles.com

Group. // J U LY 2 2

Events

Beginning July 9th - July 15th 10 am–4 pm. Free. batonrougeorchidsociety. k

JUL 14th

JUL 9th - JUL 30th

Lafayette, Louisiana

CONCERTS ANDRÉ COURVILLE AT THE ACA

CREATIVE CLASSES INTRODUCTION TO FILM PHOTOGRAPHY WORKSHOP New Orleans, Louisiana

The New Orleans Photo Alliance will be the site of a four-week workshop with photographer Leslie Parr. Participants of all skill levels will explore the art of envisioning the world in black and white while learning camera controls and the development and printing of film. This class will include hands-on demonstrations, photo assignments, critiques, and discussions of images by historical and contemporary photographers. 1 pm–4 pm Saturdays. $225 (NOPA members), $250 (non members). neworleansphotoallianceworkshop.com. k

KID STUFF YOUNG SONGBIRDS MUSIC CAMP Saint Francisville, Louisiana

With the music from the annual Songbird Music School (see page 14) still ringing in the air, Birdman Coffee and St. Francisville's Arts For All offer still another opportunity for aspiring musicians to learn from the experts. As the name suggests, the Young Songbirds camp provides musicians a series of instruction in the instrument of their choice, led by a new instructor highlyrecommended by David Hinson: Peter Simon of the band Minos the Saint. No prior music experience required. Ages seven through twelve meet from noon until 1:30 pm ($135), and ages thirteen through eighteen meet from 1:30 pm until 5 pm ($225). Email Lynn birdmancoffeeshop@gmail.com for more information, reservations can be made at bontempstix.com. k

JUL

- JUL

KID STUFF OLD MANDEVILLE HISTORIC ASSOCIATION HISTORY CAMP Baton Rouge, Louisiana

This summer, immerse your kids in the history of historic Mandeville. At its annual History Camp, the Old Mandeville Historic Association will engage children entering third and fourth grades in educational activities focused on local architecture, traditions, and culture. Each child receives a tee shirt, snacks, and drinks. 9 am–noon at the Lang House. Free. For details, contact marshamunsey@yahoo.com. k 22

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

JUL

14th

TRIBUTE CONCERTS FINLEY WATKINS AS ELVIS Covington, Louisiana

JUL 11th - JUL 15th

Louisiana native and vocalist André Courville has performed with some of the most highly esteemed operas in the world, making appearances at international venues such as Carnegie Hall and festivals like the Spoleto Festival USA. His work has been recognized at vocal competitions, and now Courville is bringing his beloved vocals to Lafayette's Acadiana Center for the Arts. 7:30 pm—9:30 pm. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

At thirteen years old, Finley Watkins' Elvis imitation had Jerry Lee Lewis saying: "He has it! He is gonna be a star!" See the young rockabilly and blues tribute artist—who has made appearances on NBC's Little Big Shots, Ellen, and Nickelodeon—live at the Fuhrmann Auditorium in Covington. 7 pm. $20. Tickets available at bontempstix.com. k

JUL

14th

- JUL

LIVE MUSIC HENRY TURNER JR.'S LISTENING ROOM

30th

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

It's always a fun night at Henry Turner Jr.'s Listening Room. Here are some special guests to look forward to: July 14: Jonathan Foster July 30: Calvin Loron 8 pm. $10. henryslisteningroom.com. k

JUL 14th - OCT 23rd

ART EXHIBITIONS RESPONDING TO HISTORY Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Mario Moore is known for his thoughtprovoking paintings that respond to history's more problematic moments through a contemporary lens. In a new exhibition at the LSU Museum of Art, Moore's five-by-six-foot collaborative painting with Mark Gibson, "During and After Battle" —which responds to American classical painting traditions and the Civil War— will be featured prominently. Also included in the exhibition is Gibson's "Battle of Anteitam," which provides another

glimpse into Moore's inspiration for During and After the Battle. lsumoa.org. k

JUL 14th - OCT 23rd

ART EXHIBITIONS BLURRING BOUNDARIES: THE WOMEN OF AMERICAN ABSTRACT ARTISTS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

A new exhibit at the LSU Museum of Art, Blurring Boundaries: The Women of American Abstract Artists, 1936 – Present, will examine how the hierarchy of distilled form, immaculate line, and pure color came close to being the mantra of modern art—particularly that of American Abstract Artists (AAA). From the outset—due as much to their divergent status as abstract artists as to their gender—women of American Abstract Artists were already working on the periphery of the art world. In contrast to the other artist collectives of the period, where equal footing for women was unusual, AAA provided a place of refuge for female artists. Through fiftyfour works, Blurring Boundaries explores the artists’ astounding range of styles, including their individual approaches to the guiding principles of abstraction: color, space, light, material, and process. Included are works by historic members Perle Fine, Esphyr Slobodkina, Irene Rice Pereira, Alice Trumbull Mason,

westbatonrougemuseum.com.

and Gertrude Greene, as well as current members such as Ce Roser, Irene Rousseau, Judith Murray, Alice Adams, Merrill Wagner, Katinka Mann, and Susan Bonfils (of Baton Rouge). A panel discussion featuring the exhibition’s curator, Rebecca DiGiovanna, artists Creighton Michael and Susan Bonfils, and LSU MOA Executive Director, Daniel Stetson will be held on Zoom at 6 pm on July 14. Free, but preregistration is required at eventbrite.com or at lsumoa.org. k

Read more about Angela Gregory's life and work in Elizabeth Chubbuck Weinstein's Perspectives profile on page 62. k

JUL 15th

DRAG SHOWS RUPAUL’S DRAG RACE WERK WORLD TOUR New Orleans, Louisiana

It will be all sparkle and glamour when drag queen RuPaul takes over the Saenger Theatre with an all-new production for 2022. Join Kameron Michaels, Rose, Vanessa Vanjie, Yvie Oddly, and all finalists from the fourteenth season on a time-traveling journey through iconic periods of history in hopes of finding a way back to 2022. Tickets start at $49.50. 8 pm. saengernola.com. k

JUL 15th

MUSEUM PARTIES HISTORICAL HAPPY HOUR GALA Port Allen, Louisiana

This July, things are heating up at the West Baton Rouge Museum with a grand gala to celebrate the opening of the new gallery Angela Gregory: Doyenne of Louisiana Sculpture, where attendees will be able to view the recently-donated Gregory sculptures alongside her other donated works and works from the museum's permanent collection. The Michael Foster Quartet will provide live music, The West Baton Rouge Historical Association will provide champagne punch, and a sculpture demonstration will take place. 6 pm–8 pm. Free.

JUL

- JUL

GOOD EATS BAYOU BBQ BASH

Morgan City, Louisiana

Slow and steady wins the race in this International Barbecue Cookers Association competition, that sets the area beneath the Highway 90 bridge to smoking. Competitors should come armed with their homemade rubs Nott

oway

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and marinades—and a thirst to prove themselves. (An appetite will come in handy too.) Categories include pork spare ribs, brisket, and chicken. In addition to the competitive cooking events for corporations, teams, and kids, Saturday offers a full schedule of chances to devour tasty things from highly regarded barbecue vendors, a Kids Zone, booths for arts & crafts and quilting, live music in the evenings, a Run for the Ribs 5K, and on and on. Festivities start early on Friday evening; the festival kicks into full gear on Saturday from 12:30 pm on, under the Highway 90 bridge in Morgan City. (985) 384-3446 bcabbq.org. k

JUL

16th

Grand Isle, Louisiana

The first-ever Island Strong Beach Fest will be celebrating Grand Isle's recovery from Hurricane Ida at the beach across from the Grand Isle Community Center and Birch Lane beach crossover #19. Enjoy all of the Southern foods the festival has to offer such as jambalaya, white beans, and shrimp po-boys, while listening to live music from bands like Rockin’ Dopsie & The Zydeco Twisters and Shorts in December. Proceeds will go to rebuilding Grand Isle's

Istro

Food

- JUL

SUMMER FESTIVALS ISLAND STRONG BEACH FEST

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LEARN MORE AT VISITIBERVILLE.COM

// J U LY 2 2

Events

Beginning July 15th - July 20th recreational facilities. $10 Friday, $20 Saturday. townofgrandisle.com. k

JUL

15th - JUL 24th

MUSICAL THEATRE IPAL PRESENTS TARZAN New Iberia, Louisiana

Washed up on the shores of West Africa, an infant boy is taken in and raised by gorillas who name him Tarzan. Apart from striving for acceptance from his ape father, Tarzan's life is mostly monkey business until a human expedition treks into his tribe's territory and he encounters creatures like himself for the first time. Tarzan struggles to navigate a jungle thick with emotion as he discovers his animal upbringing clashing with his human instincts. See the beloved tale retold on the Iberia Performing Arts League stage. 7:30 pm Thursday–Saturday; 2 pm Sunday. $15. ipaltheater.com. k

JUL

15th - AUG 6th

SCULPTURE EXHIBITIONS ANGELA GREGORY: DOYENNE OF LOUISIANA SCULPTURE Port Allen, Louisiana

Angela Gregory, known as the "doyenne of

Louisiana sculpture," became nationally and internationally recognized in the twentieth century in the field predominantly dominated by men. The West Baton Rouge Museum is presenting the complex legacy of her life and artwork in a new three-year gallery display titled Angela Gregory: Doyenne of Louisiana Sculpture, which will include pieces amassed by the museum over the course of decades alongside fifteen of Gregory's sculptures that were recently donated by her estate. westbatonrougemuseum.org. Read more about Gregory's life and legacy in Exhibition Curator Elizabeth Chubbuck Weinstein's "Perspectives" profile on page 62.k

JUL

16th

KID STUFF KIDS' FEST

In a new exhibition titled Responding to History at the LSU Museum of Art, Mario Moore's large-scale paintings reacting to the past, including a collaboration with Mark Gibson, will be on display. "During and After the Battle" (2020) by Moore and Gibson, courtesy of the LSU MOA. See listing on page 22.

provided trash cans before departing. 1 pm–5 pm. Free. nokidsfest.com. k

New Orleans, Louisiana

Marsalis Harmony Park (formerly Palmer Park) will be the verdant setting for the New Orleans' Kid's Fest with art, performances, and goods for sale by kids and for kids. Attendees are asked to bring blankets or lawn chairs. No glass will be permitted and guests are to put all of their rubbish in

JUL 16th

Month with family and friends at the Northshore’s Pelican Park. Local musicians, food, and family-friendly entertainment like inflatables and games

SUMMER FESTIVALS PARKS AND RECREATION MONTH FESTIVAL

are just a few things to expect. The night

Mandeville, Louisiana

and future events. 3 pm–9 pm. Free.

This July, celebrate Parks and Recreation

will end with a fireworks show. Proceeds will go towards park improvements pelicanpark.com. k

Locally Owned and Operated

Over 20,000 Square Feet • Furniture, Lamps, Wall Decor, Outdoor Pottery

3458 Drusilla Lane Suite A, Baton Rouge • 225-952-9127

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

JUL

16th

SUMMER FESTIVALS CAJUN MUSIC AND FOOD FESTIVAL Lake Charles, Louisiana

This festival celebrates Cajun culture with live music, food, and live and silent auctions at Lake Charles' Burton Coliseum. Chicken and sausage gumbo, shrimp étouffée, and boudin are just a few of the dishes the festival will be offering. Enjoy live music from Ellis Vanicor & the Lacassine Playboys, Aaron Istre & Under The Influence, Leroy Thomas, and so many more. 8 am–11 pm. $10, free for children ages twelve and under. visitlakecharles.org. k

JUL

and the community? Surround yourself in nature while participating in the Big Easy Big Heart 5K Q50 Race. Awards will not only be given to the first three men and women who make it to the finish line, but every participant will have the chance to enjoy a t-shirt, food, and non-alcoholic refreshments. Proceeds will go to the children housed through the New Orleans Mission and the Mission’s shelter. 9 am–noon. $45. neworleansmission.org. k

JUL

17th

CONCERTS THE ORIGINAL GLENN MILLER ORCHESTRA Baton Rouge, Louisiana

FESTIVALS CELEBRATE ST. TAMMANY Mandeville, Louisiana

Join Rockin' Dopsie and Lost in the Sixties for a performance at Pelican Park in Mandeville. Plus enjoy food trucks, local vendors, a bounce zone, and fireworks. 3 pm–9 pm. $10. pelicanpark.com. k

JUL 16th

FUN RUNS BIG EASY BIG HEART 5K Mandeville, Louisiana

Looking to do something good for you

Grab your dance partner and swing on by the Baton Rouge River Center Theater for The Original Glenn Miller Orchestra. The world-famous, evergreen orchestra was the most celebrated of all the dance bandleaders in the Swing era of the 1930s and 1940s with mega hits that are timeless classics: "In the Mood," "Moonlight Serenade," "Chattanooga Choo Choo," "Pennsylvania 6-5000," "String of Pearls," and "Tuxedo Junction." Over eighteen musicians and singers harmonize to bring the past to life. 3 pm. Tickets start at $50 at ticketmaster.com. k

JUL 17th

chapeauxparty@gmail.com. westbatonrougemuseum.org. k

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

JUL 20th - JUL 24th

CABARET SUNDAY WITH SONDHEIM GALA Support Baton Rouge's historic theatre company Theatre Baton Rouge with a Stephen Sondheim cabaret, featuring some of the iconic composer's most beloved songs. The gala will celebrate the company's seventy-sixth season, featuring this special entertainment in addition to an array of cuisine provided by some of the city's best restaurants and chefs. 5 pm. $100. theatrebr.org. k

JUL 20th

HATS ON EXPRESS YOUR OWN STYLE CHAPEAUX PARTY Port Allen, Louisiana

In conjunction with the West Baton Rouge's Courting Style exhibition, the museum is bringing in local milliners Karla Coreil and Jenn Loftin for a special headpiece-making workshop. Channeling your inner royal and or your festive whimsy—learn more about the millinery tradition and its place in contemporary style. Then, leave with your own unique Chapeaux fascinator. All materials and equipment provided. 6 pm–8:30 pm. $50; reservations required by texting (225) 229-5456 or emailing

MUSICAL THEATRE THE COLOR PURPLE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

New Venture Theatre is bringing the beloved musical to the stage of LSU's Shaver Theatre. The novel by Alice Walker and film by Steven Spielberg have become American classics, with the film being especially beloved for its effective and beautiful visuals and the dramatic turns it allowed Whoopi Goldberg and Oprah Winfrey. The musical version is fast becoming as notable in American culture as its predecessors. The epic story explores the life of Celie, a young woman born into poverty, abuse, and extreme challenges and the personal awakening over the course of forty years that allowed her to rise above the circumstances into which she was born. The musical score features jazz, ragtime, gospel, African music, and blues to tell this story of hope, a testament to the healing power of love, and a celebration of life. Not recommended for children under fourteen. July 20–22, 7:30 pm; July 23, 2 pm and 7:30 pm; and July 24, 3 pm. $35 regular admission, $30 students. newventuretheatre.org. k

Summer in Livingston Parish

Camp, boat & swim in the beautiful outdoors or shop & explore at Bass Pro, Juban Shopping Center & the Denham Springs Antique Village! KOA Kampground 7628 Vincent Road, Denham Springs, LA 1-800-562-5673 Tickfaw River Village Campground 29388 Old Hwy 22 Springfield LA, 70462 985-974-0844 Lakeside RV Park 28370 Frost Road, Livingston, LA 225-686-7676 Lagniappe RV Campground 30141 La 22 Springfield LA, 70462 225-414-0584 Tickfaw State Park 27225 Patterson Road, Springfield, LA 1-888-981-2020

www.livingstontourism.com visitlivingstonparish // J U LY 2 2

Events

Beginning July 21st- July 27th

JUL 21st

CONCERTS RITZ ON THE RIVER: A NIGHT OF SOUL Vicksburg, Mississippi

JUL

New Orleans, Louisiana

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

ART EXHIBITIONS LITTLE THINGS: DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS

Raising Cane’s River Center will be the site for Jurassic Quest, billed as the world's largest dinosaur event. This is fun for all ages, including toddlers, who will delight in the "Triceratots" soft play area. The interactive, indoor event features a herd of life-sized animatronic dinosaurs including Apatosaurus, Spinosaurus, T-Rex and a monstrous fifty-foot long Megalodon. Guests can meet trainers, pet baby dinos, watch a live interactive Raptor show, ride dinosaur-themed rides, dig for fossils, and bounce about with inflatables. 9 am-8 pm. $25. raisingcanesrivercenter.com. k

Fred Packard is much more than just a well-respected artist. Packard established the Department of Visual Arts' photography concentration at the University of Louisiana at Lafayette. Now, the artist is onto something new with Little Things: Drawings and Photographs, in which Packard explores his admiration for his intellectual pursuits and personal life experiences through various media. The exhibit will be on display at Hilliard University Art Museum.hilliardmuseum.org. k

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM AN EVENING WITH THE QUEEN

Celebrate the ninth annual Ritz on the River with “A Night of Soul” featuring the Phunky Monkeys Band at the Vicksburg Convention Center. Dinner begins at 6 pm, band starts at 8 pm. Tickets are $50 or $500 for a table, advance purchase only. A portion of the proceeds from this year’s event will be donated to Friends of the City of Vicksburg Animal Shelter. visitvicksburg.com. k

JUL 21st

JUL 22nd

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Lacombe, Louisiana

Mid-City Artisans' new Gallery 46 will be the site for the debut of Libby Tobin Broussard's All things Swamp sculpture series and Terry Farrell's Water Dimensions painting series, along with an opening reception. 5:30 pm–7:30 pm. Free. mid-cityartisans. k

Ready to celebrate summer? OnPath FCU and St. Tammany Chamber of Commerce are giving a toast to the season with their annual Southern Nights Gala at Lacombe's The Inn at La Provence. Fine dining and an open bar will be available to guests, but the festivities don’t end there. Expect a live

live entertainment educational booths, and vendors are just a few things to expect. 11 am–8 pm on July 22 and 23, 11 am–11 pm on July 24. tarponrodeo.org. k

JUL 22nd

The New Orleans Museum of Art will host an evening of experience based around the current exhibit Queen Nefertari's Egypt. The evening will start with a private, docent-led tour of the exhibition, followed by a four-course dinner at Café NOMA created by Egyptian-born chef Khaled Hegazzi of Sittoo’s Kitchen paired with non-alcoholic beverages. Wine and beer will be available for purchase. 6 pm tour; 7 pm–8:30 pm seated dinner. $80, inclusive. noma.org. k

ART EXHIBITIONS GALLERY 46 GRAND OPENING

and silent auction and casino games to keep things exciting. 7 pm–10 pm. $150; $250 per couple, $1,000 for ten tickets. sttammanychamber.org. k

FUN FUNDRAISERS SOUTHERN NIGHTS GALA

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

22nd - JUL 24th

KID STUFF JURASSIC QUEST

JUL 22nd - JUL 24th

GO FISH GRAND ISLE TARPON RODEO Grand Isle, Louisiana

Do you love to fish? The International Grand Isle Tarpon Rodeo is the oldest fishing tournament in the United States. The event will be taking place at Grand Isle's Sand Dollar Marina. Food,

JUL 22nd - APR 1st Lafayette, Louisiana

JUL 23rd

TRIBUTE SHOWS NEW ORLEANS BEATLES FESTIVAL Metairie, Louisiana

The 2022 New Orleans Beatles Festival will be celebrating the legacy of The Beatles at Metairie's Jefferson Performing Arts Center. The family-friendly

concert tribute will feature live music performances from Newspaper Taxi, The Molly Ringwalds, and The Topcats. 8 pm. $20-$79. jeffersonpac.com. k

JUL 23

SUMMER FESTIVALS NOLA RIVER FEST New Orleans, Louisiana

With the Mississippi River just a block away, the New Orleans Jazz Museum/ The Old U.S. Mint is a fitting place for the tenth annual NOLA River Fest. A celebration of the cultural, economic, environmental, and inspirational impacts and contributions of the Mississippi River to New Orleans, the people who live there, and the entire Gulf South region. The all-day festival will include live music, presentations and panels, walking tours, local food vendors, and more. Free.Also streaming on Facebook. nolariverfest.org. k

JUL

CULTURE FESTIVALS NATCHITOCHES-NSU FOLK FESTIVAL Natchitoches, Louisiana

Northwestern State University is holding their forty-third annual Natchitoches-NSU Folk Festival with the theme "Stronger Together: The

Power of Traditional Culture." The festival will take place at Northwestern State University's Prather Coliseum, where you can expect live music, dance performances, folk foods and more fun. Haggis Rampant Celtic Band, Amanda Shaw and the Cute Guys, and the Louisiana State Fiddle Championship are just a few live music performances to expect. $10 for all day, $6 after 5 pm and free for children ages twelve and under. nsula.edu. k

JUL

- JUL

SCALY FRIENDS HERPS EXOTIC REPTILE & PET SHOW Slidell, Louisiana

If you’re interested in getting a new pet, spend a weekend exploring the thousands of reptiles, amphibians, saltwater fish, and more at the Herps Exotic Reptile & Pet Show at Slidell’s Harbor Center. The world’s most exotic reptiles and animals will be featured as part of an educational, hands-on experience. Saturday at 10 am–5 pm; Sunday at 10 am–4 pm. Day pass: $10 for adults, $5 for children ages five to twelve; and free for children four and younger. Twoday pass: $15 for adults, $8 for children ages five to twelve, and free for children four and younger. herpshow.net. k

JUL

24th

GOOD EATS VEGAN FOOD FESTIVAL

JUL

25th - JUL 29th

STEPPIN' OUT SUMMER DANCE INTENSIVE

New Orleans, Louisiana

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Lemman Park, a small public park just outside of the French Quarter, will be the site of the 2022 Vegan Food Festival, celebrating the culture, food, and music that unites New Orleans' vegan community. 10 am yoga and fitness; 11 am–6 pm music, art, and food. Free. vegan2thesoul.com. k

Through this summer dance intensive at Baton Rouge Ballet Theatre's Dancers' Workshop, intermediate and advanced dance students twelve and older can focus on their dance technique and style without the pressure of the academic school day. Instructors will advise on ballet, contemporary, variations, pointe, and partnering classes. 9 am–3:30 pm daily. $415 for non-Dancers' Workshop students, $395 for Dancers' Workshop students. batonrougeballet.org. k

JUL

25th

GOOD EATS RED BEANS ‘N’ RICE COOK-OFF Covington, Louisiana

If you’re from Louisiana, you know that red beans and rice is a Monday tradition. United Way will be celebrating this tradition for a good cause at their annual all-youcan-eat Red Beans ‘N’ Rice Cook-Off in the Northshore's Greater Covington Center. Proceeds will support suicide prevention, mental health services, and other programs offered by United Way in St. Tammany Parish. As more households struggle to make ends meet, this event is working to help the community, but event sponsors and cooking teams are needed to accomplish this goal. 11 am–2 pm. $75 entry for a four-person cooking team; $10 for general admission. unitedwaysela.org/redbeans. k

169 Homochitto St Natchez, MS 39120 (601) 445-8203

5064 Hwy 84 West Vidalia, LA 71373 (318) 336-5307

JUL 27th

LOCAL HISTORY QUEEN MOTHER MOORE LEGACY SYMPOSIUM & CELEBRATION New Iberia, Louisiana

Audley Moore, called "Queen Mother Moore" left behind a legacy of fierce civil rights activism and advocacy for AfricanAmerican reparations, and she remains a key figure in the history of Black people's continued fight for equality in our country. This month, her hometown of New Iberia dedicates an entire day to her inspiring memory with the Queen Mother Moore Legacy Symposium and Celebration. Hosted

liveoaklandscapesms.com

// J U LY 2 2

Events

Beginning July 28th - July 30th

87TH LOUISIANA SHRIMP & PETROLEUM FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 1ST SEPTEMBER 5TH COME CELEBRATE LOUISIANA'S OLDEST CHARTERED HARVEST FESTIVAL

LABOR DAY WEEKEND MORGAN CITY, LOUISIANA

CRAFTS, FOOD, MUSIC & RIDES FOR MORE INFORMATION & SCHEDULE OF EVENTS VISIT WWW.SHRIMPANDPETROLEUM.ORG

J U LY 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

by the Iberia African American Historical Society, the symposium will include a panel with keynote scholars on African American history, a Black history walking tour of Main Street, a children's storytime, and more. Events will be held in venues around New Iberia, including the Sliman Theatre, Shadows on the Teche, and Envision Da Berry Fresh Market. This event is part of the efforts to place a historical marker in New Iberia later this year honoring Moore's contributions to her hometown. 10 am– 7 pm. Free. iaahs.org. k

JUL

28th

CONCERTS REVEREND HORTON HEAT AT THE MANSHIP THEATRE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

This isn’t Reverend Horton Heat’s first time spreading their gospel of country-bluesrock music. The trio band has performed with legendary artists like Johnny Cash, Motorhead, Marilyn Manson and The Ramones, to name a few. Now, Reverend Horton Heat is bringing their unique musical vision to the Hartley/Vey Studio Theatre. 8 pm. $45. manshiptheatre.org. k

JUL

28th - JUL 30th

SILVER SCREEN IBERIA FILM FESTIVAL New Iberia, Louisiana

Seeing as how Hollywood can't get enough of Louisiana's particular bayou mystique, it's only fitting that New Iberia hold its own film festival at the historic Essanee Theater. The Iberia Performance Arts League's 2022 Iberia Film festival will spotlight all genres of independent short films, promising "truly independent films from around the globe" as well as projects by local filmmakers. Each screening will be followed by Q&A sessions by visiting filmmakers and actors. Visit iberiafilmfestival.com for all the latest details, including admission prices and a full schedule. k

JUL

29th - SEP 2nd

MUSIC EDUCATION BLUES CAMP II Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Grab your harmonica or guitar and get ready to learn the Delta art of the blues. Henry Turner Jr.'s listening room is offering a free blues camp in five hour-and-a-halflong sessions each Friday. Each session will be split into half an hour on blues instrumentation and structure, half an hour on history and syntax, and half an hour on entertainment business applications. The only component of blues music they won't provide is a personal tragedy like breaking

your heart. All ages are invited to participate, and participants are not required to attend all of the classes to tune in. The class will be lead by none other than Baton Rouge bluesman Henry Turner Jr. himself, along with Flavor band members and other special guests ranging from entertainment industry executives to public relations professionals. The sessions will also be streamed via Facebook Live. 2 pm–3:30 pm each Friday. To register, visit henryslisteningroom.com or call (225) 802-9681. k

JUL 30th

LIVE MUSIC JULY AT THE RED DRAGON: SCOTT MILLER Baton Rouge, Louisiana

In its modest digs on Florida Boulevard, the Red Dragon Listening Room pulls in artists who are anything but in terms of their abilities. Well-known and emerging songwriters take the stage here several times each month, and with the venue's non-profit status all money raised at the door goes directly to the artists. This month, catch Appalachian roots-rock singer-songwriter Scott Miller, who was recently inducted to the East Tennessee Writers Hall of Fame. Shows usually start at 8 pm. (225) 939-7783. Tickets and prices can be found at the Red Dragon Listening Room Facebook Page. k

To peruse our entire calendar of events, including those that wouldn't fit in print, point your phone camera here.

A Special Advertising Feature from Heirloom Cuisine

Open House: Heirloom Cuisine & Sage Hill Presenting a dual anniversary celebration in St. Francisville on Saturday, July 9th.

he close knitted relationship between Heirloom Cuisine and Sage Hill, two family-owned businesses born in St. Francisville in the early aughts, is a perfect example of how things have a way of coming full circle in small towns. During their twenty years in business, Heirloom Cuisine has earned an enviable reputation for delivering memorable culinary experiences for events across the southeast—from weddings and galas to graduation parties and corporate events—serving fine-dining fare that is prepared and transported from their commercial kitchen situated north of St. Francisville, or served onsite from a fully-equipped mobile kitchen. The high-end catering company owned and operated by husband-and-wife duo Caryn and Jason Roland is celebrating its twentieth anniversary this year, which also happens to coincide with the one-year milestone of Carlye Graugnard taking the reigns of Sage Hill, the beloved Commerce Street boutique retailer that has long served locals as a one-stop shop for gifts, home decor, jewelry, apparel, and more. Started in 2006 by sisters Mary Joy Lawrence and Liz Wilcox out of their parents’ former office space, the family business has been intertwined with Heirloom Cuisine since the very beginning, as Caryn likes to say. “Sage Hill was instrumental in helping us get established when we were just starting out,” Caryn says, referring to the many events Heirloom

catered in the shop’s banquet room during the early 2000s. That relationship continues today, because in 2014 the Rolands purchased the building at 5622 Commerce Street—the same one that houses Sage Hill, and now, Heirloom Cuisine’s office.

honor.”

Speaking of staying power—with the coronavirus pandemic finally in the rearview, Heirloom Cuisine is busier than ever, with a full book of events stretching through the summer and beyond. Despite the logistical challenges Carlye, who moved to West Feliciana with her they’ve had to overcome while navigating a return husband, Gregory, first met Caryn when she hired to in-person events, the Rolands have never been the Rolands to cater their wedding in 2019. Fast- more grateful to be doing what they know best— forward to summer 2021, when Carlye decided working hand-in-hand with their clients to make to pursue a new venture. With more than eight life’s landmark occasions unforgettable. years of retail management in Baton Rouge under her belt, she knew she could handle running her To honor just how far they’ve each come, and own boutique. With her extensive experience to thank the greater Baton Rouge area, including and Sage Hill’s pre-existing reputation and loyal the West Feliciana community for its support following, it was a perfect fit. Carlye bought Sage over the years, Heirloom Cuisine and Sage Hill Hill from Mary Joy and Liz, and now works side- are presenting a dual anniversary celebration by-side with Jason and Caryn. “Getting to know at Sage Hill on Saturday, July 9th. The open the people here, and them embracing me has house is a celebration of tradition amid familybeen so great,” Carlye says. “The store’s longtime run businesses, the growth and evolution of employees and customers are like one big family, Heirloom Cuisine over the past two decades, and and now I’m part of that family.” ultimately, small towns and the ties that bind people together in them. Sample complimentary “Tradition has always been a big thing for me,” hors d’oeuvres and cocktails courtesy of Heirloom Carlye says. “It’s an honor to carry on the legacy Cuisine from 11am—3pm, mingle with friends Mary Joy and Liz have left.” Naturally, longtime old and new, and shop special storewide discounts customers worried that new ownership would at Sage Hill. mean a new Sage Hill, Carlye says, but keeping the shop’s brand close to its roots–the same Sage 5622 Commerce Street Hill people know and love–is important to her. St. Francsiville LA “I am so blessed to have Mary Joy and Liz as 225-784-0535 my mentors,” Carlye says. “To work and learn www.heirloomcuisine.com from them, as well as to continue the name that (225) 635-3379 they built over the past fifteen years has been an www.facebook.com/sage-hill-gifts

ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION

Saturday, July 9 at Sage Hill Open 10am-6pm, Heirloom Cuisine serving 11am-3pm

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Features

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PAOLETTIS BRING

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CHALLENGES EXPECTATIONS OF MARKSVILLE COMFORT FOODS

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hen we arrived at the “Dinner on the Lot” experience in downtown Ocean Springs, the Food, Booze & Hiccups chefs were emerging from the brewery across the street—wearing shorts, sandals, fresh tans, and big smiles; arms full of canned beer. Stephanie and Michael Paoletti met us on the grassy corner lot, where white string lights twinkled and charcoal was already burning. After greeting us like old friends showing up to a backyard barbecue, and introducing us to our equally-eager table mates, the irreverently-creative culinary team began to dish out the courses. To start was a hearty duck and rabbit fat cornbread, griddled crisp and dusted with coriander sea salt and black pepper. It was served family-style in a rough hand-thrown bowl; Stephanie explained that it might have been made by local ceramicist Amber Jameson (it also could have been made by Jameson’s boyfriend Tyler). Next came an amuse-bouche that I can say in full sincerity was the freshest oyster I have had: it had been harvested locally via aquaculture the day prior. The Paolettis served it raw on the half shell with bright and spicy jezebel sauce, homemade lettuce oil, and a bright fuchsia begonia leaf from Ocean Springs’ Harbor Hill Farm. “Being born and raised here, I grew up eating the big Gulf oysters. They were gritty two-to-three biters—I thought they were the best thing ever. Now I’ve had a chance to try oysters from all over the East Coast, West Coast and whatnot,” Michael explained. “Now we have these guys that are harvested right behind Deer Island with the West Coast-method, so they’re actually suspended—so you don’t get the grit, none of that stuff. But you still get the Gulf water, the salinity.” This level of care in sourcing fresh, local ingredients—and even the locally-crafted dishware and napkin holders—is a consistent feature of the Paolettis’ culinary and personal ideology. Theirs is the only restaurant or caterer in Ocean Springs recognized by the Mississippi Gulf Coast National Heritage Outpost Program for their commitment to sustainability. “So that’s one big thing that we really are very mindful of is our imprint when we’re done,” Stephanie told me. 30

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Both chefs grew up in the South (her in Boca Raton, Florida, him in Ocean Springs) with Italian heritage, passionate about food from early ages and eager to experiment with different ingredients and flavors. “We don’t want to put ourselves in a box,” Michael said. “Like even though I’m Italian, I don’t want to cook

“Adventurous” is a fitting word to describe the Paoloetti’s culinary philosophy. Before our dinner Michael asked if we had any dietary restrictions, and I told him we’re very open-minded eaters. “Oh, we’re gonna test how open minded y’all are,” he’d replied in a way that seemed part challenge, part threat. On the night

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Food, Booze & Hiccups

CHEFS STEPHANIE AND MICHAEL PAOLETTI REDEFINE FINE DINING

Story by Alexandra Kennon • Photos by Katherine Swetman

pasta every day. That’s just boring … We want to challenge people like a meal should. It should make you think. We also want to challenge people to step outside of their own box. Just because you grew up eating this way, doesn’t mean you have to eat this way the rest of your life. Like be adventurous and try shit, and have fun.”

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we visited, the couple’s combined culinary mastermind produced courses like a delicately-textured cured salmon with roe, fresh dill, crème fraîche, and saltcured lemon; a country-style pork and duck liver paté that played on a bánh mì with hot sauce aioli, pickled vegetables like purple-topped turnips, micro collard greens, and Calabrian chili paste; a

soft shell crab in a spicy marinade served half raw, half lightly-fried topped with tuxedo sesame seeds and fried garlic. And after all of that, there was still the Wagyu hanger steak from Louisiana’s Raines Farm, served boldly rare with Romanesco purée, Chantaney heirloom carrot roasted with sumac, and blood orange-infused olive oil, and with a quip from Michael: “I hate the term ‘chef,’ I prefer ‘butcher’.” Stephanie handles the desserts, an expertise she acquired by accident. She shared the story of how she was excelling in the savory realm of culinary school when at a competition with the American Culinary Federation, a pastry chef teammate cut her finger. “My coach was like, ‘Alright, you’re doing pastry today.’ I was very mad. And then I was very good at it. So, I just kind of stuck with it.” Her mastery on both sides of the kitchen were put on full display in the complex interactions of savory and sweet across the night’s menu. Our dessert, for instance, utilized the duck and rabbit fat cornbread we started the meal with as a base. The fatty, charred cornbread met the deep tang of a blueberry wine reduction sauce. Sweet notes from shaved vanilla bean and powdered sugar commingled with roasted turnips, which took on a buttery baked-apple quality. And a topping of intentionally-burnt cinnamon-nutmeg streusel gave a satisfying bitter-buttery-sweet crunch. Michael and Stephanie’s approach to menu planning is one of deep collaboration. “We’ll sit down and be like, ‘Alright, what are we getting? What’s cool right now that’s either coming out of the ground or out of the water, or what kind of meat haven’t we had in a while?’” Michael explained. “And we say, ‘Alright, well, we got these really rad beets in. So, we kind of want beets to be the star. But what do we want to do with them?’” The thrilling unconventionality of the Food, Booze & Hiccups experience is an eclectic testament to the unlikely story of how the culinary couple came together. Stephanie and Michael met when their time completing culinary programs at the Art Institute in Jacksonville, Florida serendipitously overlapped. She had enrolled before him but took a break from school to work at 3030 Ocean in the Harbor Beach Marriott. She was taking a wine and spirits course

in the dining room, while he took a culinary art class in the kitchen. “And there’s a big giant window,” Michael described, “so she could see me working. She had just broke up with her ex, and so she pinpointed me.” They didn’t actually meet until the day of their practical, which Stephanie explained is “basically the thesis of the culinary world,” or a final presentation for which a culinary student prepares a dish of their choice. To celebrate afterwards, a group of around twenty students went to a bar called the Ale House. “So like, we shot the shit that night, you know, met and whatnot, and kind of left it at that, you know,” Michael recalled. “Went our separate ways. I invited her to come back with me, and she said, ‘No.’” As Michael regaled us with their love story, Stephanie occasionally chimed in to provide clarification or correction. At this particular development, she interjected: “That’s almost true. You invited us to come downtown, and as Amanda and I were leaving Ale House, someone sideswiped her car, and we had to call the cops and wait for all that, but I didn’t get your phone number. Honestly, I had no clue what your name was.” The two seemed entirely in agreement on the next part, about how she “hunted him down” and got his number through a mutual friend while he was in the middle of a busy meal service at a local restaurant. “And that was the beginning of the end,” Stephanie laughed.

Having just gotten out of a long relationship and in preparations for a move to Alaska to work on a cruise ship, she offered Michael a proposition: “So, do you want to be the rebound?” “I didn’t want to be tied down at all,” Michael said. “So, this worked perfect for me.” The two enjoyed the few weeks together, expecting to part ways when Stephanie left for Alaska. “I was leaving and I was going to be gone forever. And I left April 23 of that year, and I went on the cruise ship. And then when I came back in June, I found out I was pregnant. And we’ve been together ever since!” Their son Caiden (who is currently six), was born later that year, and Hudson (now five) came also unexpectedly not far behind. While still living in Jacksonville, the couple started a blog called Food, Booze & Hiccups. It included their recipes and thoughts on food, reviews of gin and other liquors, and advice based on their experience parenting young children while juggling busy restaurant industry jobs. “The hiccups were our kids,” Michael explained with a chuckle. The two knew from early on that they wanted to work for themselves, but with two young children at home, as well as Michael’s teenage daughter Hannah Grace, they pursued more traditional employment at restaurants around the Gulf Coast. This included a period when Michael worked in the kitchen of Restaurant Orsay in Jacksonville, where he feels

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like he really got his training. On Thanksgiving day of 2018, they were both working at a restaurant in Biloxi about a month after their wedding. “And finally, one day I went in and me and the owner just didn’t really mesh, and I basically had enough of it,” Michael recalled of what led him to quit with a colorfully-dramatic four-letter-word. “There were some more words involved, but that’s the short synopsis.” Michael grabbed his knife bag and walked out of the restaurant. “And that’s not typically my M.O.—you know, I might give you my notice… but I just couldn’t do it anymore.” The owner sent Stephanie home for the day, too—only to call her back in the next morning to fire her. “It was the end of the year, coming up to Christmas with kids at the house,” Stephanie said. “I just looked at stuff, and I was like, ‘We’re just gonna figure this out, we’re gonna do it for ourselves,’” said Michael. After taking advantage of the rare time off during the holidays, in January of 2019 the couple “just started hustling,” according to Michael. They began brainstorming back to their time in Jacksonville, when they would sometimes work pop-up events in locations beyond traditional restaurant settings. Michael’s parents owned a piece of property in downtown Ocean Springs that wasn’t being used, and it occurred to him and Stephanie that they could set up a table, lights, and an outdoor kitchen there. “So, we did the first one, the friends and family dinner. And we had some of our farmers out,” Michael said. “And we made this like six course meal, and we did like a chocolate quail and some really off-the-wall shit that we probably shouldn’t have been doing. But that’s what we do.”

While Michael and Stephanie had placed utmost focus on the menu, a couple of oyster farmers in attendance, Mike and Anita Arguellas, suggested that they market their offerings as a full dining experience. “After the dinner, we sat back, and we went, ‘Alright, maybe they’re onto something here: this is an overall experience. It’s not just coming out to eat some food, going to your local restaurant…” Michael said. “And so, really early, we were able to step back and go, ‘Okay, how can we enhance this experience even more?’ And it’s just kind of grown from there.” As for what to call their new not-restaurant? They harkened back to the name of their blog: Food, Booze & Hiccups. As Michael explained, “It’s kind of funny. It’s catchy. It really does kind of tell our story.” On May 24 of this year, Food, Booze & Hiccups celebrated its third “Dinner-onthe-Lot-iversary,” as Stephanie put it. When they started in 2019, Michael and Stephanie didn’t realize how beneficial operating exclusively outdoors and technically operating as caterers rather than a restaurant would soon be. “When COVID hit, we were already doing outdoor dinners,” Stephanie said. “And it’s like, man, people in the South still want a party, it doesn’t matter what’s going on. And there were restaurants around us that we saw building decks outside, with how expensive wood was, and all this stuff. And we’re just standing on our little piece of grass with our tables, just waving like, ‘Hey guys, we’re over here.’” Before March of 2020, their budding business was doing pretty well, but they found themselves wondering how to amp things up so they could consistently pay their bills on time. “It was going

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great, but it was still a struggle. And I hate to say that COVID was a good thing, but COVID is what helped us reach this level,” Stephanie said. With Ocean Springs’ growing culinary scene, its laid-back beach culture, and excellent school systems—Michael’s hometown easily became his and Stephanie’s home base, the perfect environment to raise both their kids and their business. “We felt like it’s really a great place to grow up, you know?” Michael said. “Besides from the fact that we’re both just complete beach bums.” Plus, with a plethora of small produce and oyster farms in the Ocean Springs area, they are never short on inspiring ingredients. “We’re very adventurous, you know, we both want to push the boundaries as much as we can,” Michael said. “We’re very just like down to earth, grassroots kind of people. And so, we wanted to showcase what we had here, product wise, but we wanted to showcase it in a different way.” The town’s history as an artist’s community holds a special place for chefs who approach cuisine like the Paolettis, too “We look at it from the art standpoint,” said Stephanie. “The people that can stand in front of a piece of art and talk about what the artists may have been thinking for an hour, it boggles my mind. I don’t get it. But we can sit here in front of a plate of food and completely decipher and pick apart the chef and his total childhood and upbringing in the same sense. Because that is art. And we want people to appreciate food as an art piece, as well. It needs to have layers, and textures, and a story.” h

In addition to Dinner on the Lot, Food, Booze & Hiccups also hosts beach dinners and other adult party packages on the beach in Ocean Springs. They are also willing to travel to cater private experiences. Find out more or book an experience at fbhos.com.

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exp lore out here

Minutes from New Orleans, yet worlds away. Find your way along the Andouille Trail, the only place you can get an authentic taste of this local delicacy. Located in Louisiana’s River Parishes, you’ll find thrilling adventure in the Andouille Capital of the World. Out here, makers put their own stamp on seasonings, ensuring the finished product is as distinct as the small-town smokehouse where it’s made. While you’re here, discover eye-opening

architecture and exciting outdoor experiences. Come see why Louisiana’s River Parishes should be the centerpiece of your next vacation. Visit AndouilleTrail.com to learn the history behind our andouille. You can have it shipped to your door or, even better, plan a trip to ours for a taste of the original.

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was forced to close the doors of his daytime lunch hotspot, Brown Bag Gourmet, in 2021 as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic, he decided to do what locals had been suggesting for years—merging with Broken Wheel Brewery. “We’ve always joked about combining the two restaurants,” Bonnette said. “And this time it actually happened and it’s been the most amazing thing that we’ve ever done, business-wise. We’ve quadrupled revenue.” Helmed by Bonnette, who brought nearly thirty years of restaurant industry experience into the venture, today Broken Wheel is known for serving authentic Cajun cuisine featuring powerhouse seafood platters, elevated savory dishes such as crawfish étouffée and crab cakes, and rotating daily specials. “So we kept the name and merged the two menus, and like I said, it’s been the best thing.” Growing up, Bonnette worked for his parents’ restaurant in his hometown of Moreauville, a village in Avoyelles Parish. “I swore I’d never open a restaurant,” he said. Thankfully, he would go on to break his promise; hindsight (and a proper appreciation for irony) are twenty-twenty, after all. It wasn’t until Bonnette moved to New Orleans in his early twenties, though, that he began to fall in love with food, honing his craft as a line cook at Dickie Brennan’s Bourbon House Restaurant. “That’s when I fell in love and really understood the restaurant business more. There was a lot more than what my parents’ restaurant had to offer.” He moved back to Central Louisiana when the opportunity arose to help open Red River Grill in downtown Marksville in 2001 (which reopened Downtown Grille) and spearheaded a in 2017 under the new name Maglieaux’s menu based around staples such as Gulf seafood, prime steaks, and wild game. Bonnette stayed at the beloved local spot for ten years, before serving as the executive chef of Legends Steakhouse at Paragon Casino for another three. After eighteen years of working in the restaurant industry, Bonnette finally

The Andouille-crusted redfish from Broken Wheel Brewery, featuring pan roasted shrimp, Louisiana hot sauce cream, green onion aioli, and roasted corn grits.

2022 SMALL TOWN C H E F AWA R D S

Chef Trent Bonnette

THE MARKSVILLE CHEF BRINGS HIS BROWN BAG INGENUITY TO THE LOCAL BREWERY Story by Lauren Heffker • Photos by Shannon Fender

or first-timers, the name Broken Wheel Brewery can be a bit of a misnomer, at first—the good kind, I mean. The pleasant surprise kind. The kind that, if slightly factually questionable, is only due to the fact that it is also so much more than. Upon pulling up to the packed parking lot on Tunica Drive in Marksville, Louisiana, and walking up to the tall entryway, it’s evident the brewery is also a full-service restaurant, with a large pet-friendly patio and beer garden (jumbo Jenga and cornhole included), banquet room, and main dining space with spacious bar seating. On a warm Tuesday evening in mid-spring, the bar has an unmistakable Cheers air about it as the locals’ unofficial town hall; this designation is further confirmed when a group of older men break out into song at one point, craft beer and camaraderie flowing. While “brewery” is indeed part of the name, it’s the restaurant that comes first and foremost for this operation; the beer is a bonus, said Chef Trent Bonnette. “Chris is the brewmaster, I take care of the kitchen, and John mostly does front-of-house and helps with coordinating catering. We’re a restaurant first. And then the brewery follows.” Bonnette is referring to Jonathan Knoll, who first opened Broken Wheel as Fresh Catch Bistreaux in 2009, and to Chris Pahl, the longtime friend Knoll joined forces with in 2015 to bring Broken Wheel Brewery to life, rebranding the name of the restaurant to reflect their handcrafted beers, produced to pay homage to the local culture. The packed parking lot at Broken Wheel is due, in large part, to its recently revamped menu, which can in turn be attributed to Bonnette’s (also somewhat-recent) presence. When Bonnette // J U L 2 2

decided to open his own venture, Brown Bag Gourmet, in 2010. Bonnette’s inspiration for the name derived from the artisan farm-to-table takeout fare he served, though this was far from your average bag lunch. Bonnette intended to provide something different for rural Marksville; in a sea of casino buffets, fried chicken joints, and plate-lunch places, Brown Bag offered an inventive selection of delectable salads and sandwiches, with all of the dressings and sauces made fresh in-house. The restaurant’s hearty salads became colorful best sellers, and locals lined up for the Brown Bag Burger (a frequent favorite since the restaurant’s opening; the “farm-to-table masterpiece” featured Louisiana beef, a grilled portabella mushroom topped with caramelized onions, and avocado, all served on a fresh onion roll baked that morning and picked up by Bonnette at a local grocer). “I don’t have any formal training,” the forty-five-year-old said. “So to please people with food, you know, especially people that I have grown up with, I’ve lived here my whole life and for them to enjoy what I provide and what I create is incredible.” The success of Brown Bag came as a surprise even to Bonnette, who, by that point, had built a small following in the region; but with the lack of fresh seafood in the aftermath of the BP oil spill, and the challenges presented by the eatery’s tucked-away location, Bonnette had not expected to be so highly sought out by quite so many people. But in small towns especially, word gets around fast when good food is involved. “When I opened Brown Bag, I knew I wanted to provide something that was different,” Bonnette said. “Off the bat, we started doing a lot more gourmet food than what was previously available, and it just took off. During the first week we were like, ‘what the hell did we open?’” Once you’ve tasted Bonnette’s food, though, it’s no longer a mystery. “I like to call my style of cooking a global cuisine with Louisiana flair,” Bonnette said. “That’s the best way I can describe it because I enjoy so many different types of cuisine, but I always like to put a little Louisiana spin on it, whether it’s using local ingredients or some of our different spices.” His most popular dish by far (and for good reason) is the andouille-crusted redfish with pan-roasted shrimp, Louisiana hot sauce cream,

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The Krab Nachos from Broken Wheel Brewery.

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July 28th-29th The shrimp & crab stuffed avocado from Broken Wheel Brewery.

green onion aioli, and roasted corn grits. Speaking from experience, all of it—the pecan-crusted crab cakes topped with crawfish cream, the potato-crusted chicken with bacon cream gravy and roasted sweet potato chipotle mash; the white chocolate mocha bread pudding—lives up to the hype. The brewery is named after an old story that tells the origin of Marksville’s founding—as the folktale goes, Marksville was first settled by a merchant trader who traveled the area selling his wares to the local Native American tribes and French settlers. On one such trip, the trader was stranded due to a broken wheel on his wagon, prompting him to throw his hands in the air and declare, “That’s it, I’m not going anywhere else.” Like the brewery’s namesake, the name of each beer shares a bit of local lore, too. Broken Wheel’s offerings include seven beers total, with four rotating on tap: the Páchafa Pale Ale is named after an old Marksville legend of a half-man, half-horse boogeyman who roamed the woods, while the AP IPA honors Avoyelles Parish; there’s also the Spring Bayou Blonde Ale (“clear, crisp, and clean”) and the Grand Chien Milk Stout. Seasonal brews include: the Hunter’s Moon Oktoberfest Ale; La Vielle Wheat (La Vielle is Cajun French, a kind invitation to come pass a good time); and 82 Schwarzbier—a German black beer named for Marksville’s elevation above sea level. While their craft beers are made in-house, you won’t find Broken Wheel brews in stores just yet. The issue with bottling and distribution is a legal matter, Bonnette said; according to state law, if a brewery begins to distribute, it is considered solely a brewpub, and can no longer sell other liquor, beer, or wine. At Broken Wheel, they can’t risk losing the revenue brought in by their wine list (curated, notably, by Mystic Vine in New Orleans—an import and wholesaling arm of an old legacy and family-run company, Si Sherman Inc., which began business as a rum-runner in Central Louisiana during the Prohibition Era and was officially founded in 1940 as the retail outlet, Hokus Pokus Liquors), house cocktails, and domestic beers. In the months to come, however, the Broken Wheel crew is focusing on expanding their off-site catering options, as well as completing a patio renovation. Having access to cuisine of this caliber in a place like Marksville, and Central Louisiana as a whole, is no small feat. The success of Broken Wheel, as well as Bonnette, shows that when you produce high quality, fresh food, people will show up for you, no matter if the name above the door is brewery or bistreaux. Some will even go the extra mile to drive in for the experience; while Broken Wheel boasts a large local clientele as the go-to neighborhood hangout, Bonnette says, they’ve also seen an increasing number of patrons coming in from out of town thanks to positive word-of-mouth and boosting their social media presence. “As crazy as it sounds, I’m kind of thankful for COVID, because something really great came out of it,” Bonnette said. “It hurt a little bit to lose Brown Bag. But you know, it’s still alive, in a sense. I mean, we had everything against us. And it succeeded just beyond our expectations.” h

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Preservation Bar & Grill

CHEFS MATTHEW AND ALEXIS INDEST ELEVATE THE COMFORTS OF SMALL TOWN CAJUN COUNTRY Story by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot • Photos by Paul Kieu

From the Preservation Bar & Grill menu: A New York strip special topped with chimichurri, fried potatoes, house-made tortilla chips, and seafood tartare.

n Chefs Matt and Alexis Indest’s Preservation kitchen in downtown New Iberia, a basket of Gulf shrimp is made golden by the melding tastes of the tropics and the Cajun prairie: shredded coconut and tasso. Nearby, more shrimp cheerfully mingle with scallops and crab in a citrus marinade—waiting to be artfully 38

arranged in a succulent tower of seafood tartare, drizzled in house-made chimichurri. A fried softshell crab poses seductively atop a pile of linguine and Puttanesca sauce. Buffalo sauce simmers on the stove, ready to paint a fresh-fried plate of frog legs. And if it’s Steak Night (Wednesday), the filet mignons, flat irons, and butcher block specials are practically fly-

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ing out the door (at fifteen percent off). Struggling to articulate a definition for his culinary style, Matt said, “I kind of fuse everything together. Take bits and pieces and put our own spin on it.” On his menu, you’ll find elements of Italian, Mediterranean, Central American, and traditional French cuisines—all integrated into a locally-rooted comfort

foods, crafted using traditional methods of preservation—smoking, pickling, aging, fermentation, and salting. “It’s about making the most out of your food,” said Matt, who grew up as an outdoorsman in New Iberia, enjoying the distinct cuisine of the region. But with Preservation, he and Alexis wanted to offer something more than just another Cajun restaurant. “I’m not trying to duplicate something that your grandmother’s been making,” said Matt. “Nobody can beat your grandmother’s cooking. We don’t really want to compete with that. We want to try to do something along those lines, but with a different delivery.” “We’re drawing out the comfort food that people are already accustomed to around here,” added Alexis, “and taking a subtle spin on it, offering something more worldly when it comes to tastes and flavors.” Unaware of Wednesday night’s significance at Preservation Bar & Grill, my husband and I waltzed right in from the sleepy downtown streets at 6:30 pm, surprised to find it bright and bustling, crowded even. Dressed in work clothes and postured in a way that signaled comfortable familiarity—patrons sipped cocktails, bent over steaks, and wandered from table to table, patting each other on the back and asking “How’s your mama?” “It’ll be about an hour wait,” our hostess kindly told us. Surprised, our stomachs growled, but we smiled back at her—“No problem,” and settled in at the bar, where we were immediately tended to. In addition to its extensive list of organic, biodynamic wines (“though of course we still have the Kendall Jacksons—some things you just can’t get away from when you’re working in a small town,” laughed Alexis), Preservation’s cocktails are all original creations energized by names like “Mario Speedwagon,” “Yoga Pants,” and “Magnum P.I.” The concoctions themselves are elevated, but approachable: a vodka drink with cherry limeade, Topo Chico, and Sprite; Amador Bourbon with orange bitters and smoked simple syrup. I elected for La Yarara—tequila sweetened by prickly pear and seasoned with black sea salt. Our bartender, we learned later, has been with Preservation since its beginnings in 2019, along with much of the current staff. “We’ve had our same crew pretty much since the beginning,” said Matt, noting that even considering the restaurant industry’s nationwide “Great Resignation” crisis, Preservation has

managed to avoid significant turnover. “This place is exactly what we wanted to create,” said Alexis of their commitment to maintaining a positive company culture. “We wanted a restaurant that is a haven for people.” This intentionality comes from the decades Matt and Alexis have spent working in every position from the front to the back of the house in restaurants across the country. Each of them recalls an early childhood passion for food— Alexis in Albuquerque, New Mexico staying up late at night watching Great Chefs of America; Matt in New Iberia, captivated by Cajun comedian Justin Wilson’s cooking show on PBS. “I always had a different idea of how I wanted food served,” said Matt. “I kind of caught the culinary bug early.” The two met while both studying at the Texas Culinary Academy in Austin, then parted ways to pursue cooking gigs throughout the country, reuniting years later in Dallas. Then, “she followed me back to Louisiana, and I asked her to marry me,” said Matt. In Lafayette, they individually worked their way up in some of the city’s most iconic restaurants. Alexis—having now mastered the art of Cajun cooking—opened Stephen and Patrick O’Bryan’s Bon Temps Grill as executive chef in 2013. Meanwhile, Matt worked through the final era of Lafayette’s oldest bar, Antlers, before returning to his roots in New Iberia to open Clem-

entine on Main as executive chef in 2018. The new restaurant, opened by the Dolds family, was created as an homage to the historic building’s previous life as Clementine Fine Dining and Spirits—where Matt, as a teenager, had gotten his start as a dishwasher. Clementine on Main’s downtown reign was short-lived. But when the restaurant closed, the Dolds remembered their chef’s dreams of someday starting a restaurant of his own. “They were just like ‘here, if you want to go and do this, if you really want to do this, then here. We’ll give you everything you need, take it and run with it,’” said Matt. “And against my better judgement, we did,” he After years of working in some of Lafayette’s most popular kitchens, chefs Matt and Alexis Indest have made laughed. Matt opened Preservaa home in Matt’s hometown of New Iberia with Preservation Bar & Grill. tion Bar and Grill in the former Clementine building in February 2019. Within “so you have a lot of support. You just location had a patio. “We were actually the year, Alexis left her long-standing don’t have the demographic. It’s a give able to do live music and outside service when we opened in the summer. So that post at Bon Temps to join him as general and take thing in a small town like this.” Preservation was right on the cusp of kind of carried us through the first bit of manager. At the beginning of 2020, the Indests moving into the former Beau Soleil loca- COVID.” Owning a new restaurant in a small announced a strategic merger with other tion down the street when the COVIDbeloved New Iberia eatery Beau Soleil 19 pandemic shut down most other town these past few years has not been Café, expanding their catering services restaurant operations across the coun- easy, the Indests assured me. But they are as well as maximizing New Iberia’s lim- try. “It just worked out to where we were proud of what they’ve built—“Being in ited dining crowd. “Being from here, you already in a transition process during your hometown was a big draw for him,” know everybody in town,” said Matt of the beginning of it all,” said Matt. And, said Alexis. “You want to keep your comopening the restaurant in his hometown, as providence would have it, the new munity growing. But it is a challenge.”

BLURRING BOUNDARIES THE WOMEN OF AMERICAN ABSTRACT ARTISTS, 1936–PRESENT ON VIEW JULY 14–OCTOBER 23, 2022

Blurring Boundaries: The Women of American Abstract Artists, 1936–Present was organized by The Clara M. Eagle Gallery, Murray State University, Murray, KY and the Ewing Gallery, The University of Tennessee, Knoxville, TN and is toured by International Arts & Artists, Washington, DC. The exhibition was curated by Rebecca DiGiovanna. This exhibition is also sponsored by Presenting Sponsor Taylor Porter Attorneys At Law and the LSU MOA Annual Exhibition Fund donors. IMAGE (detail): Cecily Kahn, Laughter and Forgetting, 2017. Oil on canvas. Courtesy of the artist.

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From the Preservation Bar & Grill menu: Gringo on the Teche tacos, house-made tortilla chips, and seafood tartare—served with a signature cocktail.

As I had assumed, much of the Wednesday night crowd I encountered on my visit are faithful regulars. “They show up every week,” said Alexis. “They need us, and we need them,” added Matt. This commitment to supporting local communities extends to the Indests’ approach to cuisine, as well. When something can’t be sourced locally, said Matt, it is made in house. Most of Preservation’s beef is sourced

directly from Gonsoulin Land & Cattle Company right down the road. Barbecue sauce and pepper jelly come from New Iberia purveyor Uncle’s Barbecue. Smoked cheese, salts, and seasonings are Jay Florsheim’s of Peace Love & Smoke. Many of the vegetables are grown in the Envision da Berry community garden. And the fish are from the Gulf, broken down and processed in the kitchen— Alexis’s favorite part of being a chef in

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Louisiana, and being married to a “hardcore Cajun”. “I’m from the desert,” she laughed. “We don’t have fish. I smelled atrocious for like three years [at Bon Temps Grill]. I love fish. Anything to do with catching it and breaking it down, the ins and outs of cooking it. That’s my number one passion.” While culinarily Matt prefers the beef side of Preservation’s menu, the Gulf’s bounty holds a salient grip on his heart,

too. When I asked about his ultimate dreams for this place, he didn’t even have to contemplate: “I’m trying to open a marina.” That has always been his dream, even before Preservation existed: Open a marina on the Gulf and offer charter services—all integrated into a catch-and-cook restaurant. “That’s the end game,” he said. Back at the bar, my husband and I boxed up precious leftovers of my flat iron and his shrimp alfredo. Mere minutes after bringing us our drinks, our bartender had slyly suggested she might be able to get our orders into the kitchen far before the hour-long wait was up. We gorged on the Buffalo frog legs— some of the most tender and delicious I’d ever had. And not only was the seafood tartare beautifully-executed, it held surprisingly complex, fresh flavors that paired perfectly with the buttery bites of crab, scallops, and shrimp. Those plates were returned clean. When our massive entrées arrived, I cautioned Julien to go slowly: I was eyeing the turtle cheesecake, too. As we were leaving, I noted that the dining room was still pretty full—diners leaning back in their chairs as though at their own dining table, plates licked clean. We stepped out into the twilight, heading to our car—and when I looked back, there was Preservation. Lighting up the quiet New Iberia streets. h

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Cuisine

J U LY 2 0 2 2 42 GET YOUR 52

HEAD

CHANGE IN

THE GAME

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THREE

NOLA

DINING

PERSPECTIVE FROM CHEF CORY BAHR

CULINARY INGENUITY

EXPERIENCES

EAT OUTSIDE

THE

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BOUCHERIE

Use Your Head

JARRED ZERINGUE ON ALL THINGS HOG’S HEAD CHEESE

Story by Kristy Christiansen • Photos by Paul Christiansen

hen we arrived at Wayne Jacob’s Smokehouse, tucked away in Old LaPlace, we were greeted by owner Jarred Zeringue and a disembodied, smoked hog’s head encircled by peppers, parsley, onions, garlic, and green onions. Although known for its andouille, Wayne Jacob’s offers a range of preservative-free smoked meats prepared in the old-world style— including hog’s head cheese. Recently my husband and I visited after hours for a behind-the-scenes demonstration on how to make the delicacy affectionately known around these parts as Cajun pâté, but not before learning more about the smokehouse’s history and how Zeringue became a part of it. Nolan “Nat” Jacob started the smokehouse in April 1950 as a seasonal operation, waiting until the weather turned cool to whip up his gumbos and jambalayas featuring his smoked meats. His son, Wayne, later took over the business and opened it year-round. Zeringue 42

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showed us black-and-white photos on his wall and then turned to look out the front window at an elderly man sitting on a front porch across the street. “That’s Mr. Nat’s sister’s son. He’s in his eighties and sells Creole tomatoes,” explained Zeringue. As if on cue, a truck pulled up, its bed brimming with the shiny red fruits. Zeringue, former owner and chef of two French Quarter restaurants—Eat on Dauphine Street and Vacherie in the Hotel St. Marie, bought Wayne Jacob’s in 2016 and continues to carry on the smokehouse’s time-honored traditions. “As a kid, I came in here with my grandma. I remember the fluorescent lights humming,” Zeringue gestured at the ceiling. His family, of French and German descent, has lived in the River Parishes for nearly three hundred years. “I grew up in Vacherie, and we did a boucherie every year with my family. All the aunts, uncles, cousins, and neighbors would gather at three in

the morning. We’d kill the pig at daybreak, bleed it, and shave it.” In his newly released cookbook, Southern and Smoked: Cajun Cooking Through the Seasons, Zeringue evokes the excitement of the annual boucherie, describing the expected family squabbles and the joy of an afternoon spent dancing to Cajun or zydeco music once the day’s work is completed. Because of how long it takes to cook, hog’s head cheese is always one of the first meats started at the boucherie and it enjoys a spot as one of the first recipes featured in the cookbook, slightly adapted for the average family kitchen. Zeringue led us through to the kitchen, where andouille hung in rows to dry for the night. Wayne Jacob’s slogan is “Home of Andouille Smoked the Old-Fashioned Way,” and Zeringue explained they make two to three hundred pounds of andouille at a time. After it’s stuffed, the andouille is hung to dehydrate before being smoked for eight to twelve hours. Out back, Zeringue showed us

the smokehouses, empty when we visited but still emanating delicious smokey smells. One house could hold up to two-hundred and fifty pounds of andouille. He then moved to a giant pot of water in a corner of the patio and began stirring. The secret to hog’s head cheese, Zeringue explained, is to start by boiling the head, shanks, skin, and bones for several hours. The process brings out the collagen in the meat and forms a rich stock that gelatinizes. As it boils, the aromatics—parsley, garlic, onions, and whites of the green onions—are added for flavor. After the meat breaks down, it’s strained, ground, and placed back in the broth. At this point, cubed pork, raw or smoked, is added along with green onion tops, peppers, and parsley toward the end for color. The mixture is then poured into a forty-pound tub and left to set overnight in the refrigerator. Once it’s ready, the meat is cut and sold in one-pound, vacuum-sealed blocks.

“We started selling the smoked version about four to five years ago, and we sell about two to three times as much of that as the regular kind,” said Zeringue. “At Christmas, we have tree-shaped versions. From Thanksgiving to Christmas, we sell as much as we can make.” Zeringue sliced up a block for us to taste, offering it with crackers and his homemade hot sauce. He told us the meat, called “cheese” because of its consistency, is also good with creole mustard or as a topping over hot grits. As a new initiate into this particular culinary tradition, I was surprised to find the salty, fatty spread incredibly addictive; we couldn’t manage to stop snacking until half the block was gone. As we ate, Zeringue explained that hog’s head cheese has been around since the Middle Ages: “From China to England, no matter where you are, you find that cultures have so many of the same items. You have to find something to eat, and it’s amazing that people arrived at the

same items around the world. Hog’s head cheese was another form of preservation in using every piece of meat.” As an institution founded on preserving the centuries-old culinary traditions of Louisiana’s early settlers— Wayne Jacob’s takes pride in its commitment to the traditional process, while many other butchers around the region have resorted to using commercial gelatin in their hog’s head cheese instead of an actual hog’s head. “Hog’s head cheese—more than any other Cajun product we make—is the embodiment of the ingenuity of [our ancestors],” said Zeringue. “To use every part of the animal is to appreciate the whole animal.” h

Find Zeringue’s cookbook Southern & Smoked at arcadiapublishing.com. Explore Wayne Jacob’s offerings at wjsmokehouse.com.

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From the Rabbit Hole Supper Club: (top left) James Beard’s Onion Sandwich; (top right) the entry way into the Rabbit Hole Supper Club, and (bottom left) brown butter carrot cake with Japonica Noyeaux Buttercream and Louisiana pecans. Photos by Alexandra Kennon. Bottom right: a fried ginger “Beign-Yay” from Black Roux Culinary Collective. Photo by Jyl Benson.

TA B L E ’ S S E T

Supper, Re-Imagined

THREE UNCONVENTIONAL, IMMERSIVE DINING EXPERIENCES FOR THE CURIOUS EPICUREAN Story by Alexandra Kennon and Jyl Benson

f you are tempted to raise an eyebrow when we tell you that we’ve discovered one-of-a-kind dining hexperiences in New Orleans, we understand. But really, even by the standards of the South’s most vibrant food city— these food encounters take things far beyond the standard white table cloths and pre-fixe menus. From bunny-themed secret suppers to personalized multi-course meals inside private homes—these corners of the NOLA culinary scene are, we’re pleased to reveal, secrets no more.

Rabbit Hole Supper Club Alleyway dining meets funky hipster theme party

If you’ve never before experienced a multi-course, pre-fixe meal in an alley with the cartoon eyes of pop culture’s most famous bunnies watching over you—well, then you’ve clearly never dined at Rabbit Hole Supper Club. The millennial urge to describe the atmosphere as a “total vibe” is too strong to resist (go ahead, wiser boomer food writers—roll your eyes, I understand). But I will also tell you how that vibe is created: haphazardly-strung red string lights along the length of the dining room cast the space with a warm, red glow—reminiscent of Snake ’n’ Jakes Christmas Club Lounge dive bar or some far-away red light district. Beyond the glow of the Christmas lights, a little A-frame sign out fronts reads “RABBIT HOLE SUPPER CLUB”—which catches reservation-holders just as we began to wonder “this surely can’t be it.” From there, we slunk into the alley to join our friends, who greeted us beside a shrine of bunny tchotchkes. Once settled at our round, bunny-cloth covered table, we took in the

full impact of the décor. Our table featured a framed portrait of Buster, the white rabbit pal of public broadcasting’s cartoon aardvark Arthur—and each other table hosted its own bunny of honor. Rabbit and star stencils decorated a burgundy-painted cement brick wall to one side; a vintage mirrored sign, smattering of tropical plants, and set of sixties swivel chairs beaconed toward the bamboo-covered bar in the back corner. Overlooking the entire operation with his usual good humor was a humorously voluptuous Bugs Bunny. The masterminds behind Rabbit Hole Supper Club, which they’ve appropriately branded as “Your Grandmother’s Side Alley Sometimes Restaurant,” are couple Eden Chubb and Aaron Miller. The friendly, laid-back front-of-house and themed décor are Chubb’s work, while Miller cranks out the homey-yet-elevated, contemporary-yet-charmingly-dated menu offerings. The evening we went (Rabbit Hole operates on alternating Monday nights), we opted for cocktails, though their wine

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and hot tea menus also looked promisingly well-curated. Going all in, I ordered a Hasenfluffer: Smith & Cross rum, carrot, lemon, egg white, and angostura bitters. It arrived in a dainty stemmed glass, a satisfying carrot-orange color with a rabbit shape stenciled into the foam on top. My table mates tried the menu’s other two offerings: a refreshing tequila cucumber drink and a more intense rum and Campari concoction— each highlighting unusual ingredients, like traditional Alpine herbal liquor génépy, with creativity and cute garnishes. The pre-fixe, family-style menu (and whole experience, really) felt like an oldschool meal at grandma’s, a modern trendy farm-to-table restaurant experience, and a dinner party with the cool hipster friends we didn’t know we had— all rolled into one. The first course was James Beard’s Onion Sandwich, a 1965 classic which I was previously unaware of and is now my new oddly-simple obsession. Pillowy-soft and buttery brioche potato bread cushioned thinly-sliced

sweet Vidalia onions and mayo, with a generous parsley garnish encrusting the sliced side of the sandwich. The vintage entertaining staple was served alongside a crisp and herby green bean salad, bedecked with thin shavings of fennel and generous sprigs of fresh dill. Then came a platter of richly-savory, just-soft-enough roasted beets, nestled atop a thin layer of fresh greens, drizzled with an orange tahini sauce, and bedazzled with crushed roasted hazelnuts. In keeping with the cottontail concept, most of the menu is plant-based: up next was a salad of thinly-shaved squash with fresh mint, Aleppo pepper, and Tién Dat Tofu. But it wasn’t all rabbit food: the fourth course was a juicy spiced, roasted half chicken served alongside charred broccoli and crispy-fried chunks of potato. A creamy, garlic-heavy toum sauce and a darker, more savory reduction of some kind arrived as dipping sauces. Our vegetarian friend was accommodated with cubes of tofu marinated just like our chicken, curbing any tableside envy. Finally, in a finale rounding out the rabbit theme (which might sound heavy-handed, but I found to be delightfully campy without being overwrought), we had brown butter carrot cake smeared with a silky Japonica Noyaux (a Japanese plum-like fruit) Buttercream and dotted with pieces of Louisiana pecans. The thoroughly-spiced, hearty cake paired perfectly with a cardamom-infused digestif suggested by our thoughtful waiter. We moseyed back out of the rabbit hole only after sharing some compliments and deep belly laughs with him, the chef, and the hostess; whose combined efforts created a delectably off-the-wall meal and experience. rabbitholesupperclub.com. —Alexandra Kennon

Black Roux Culinary Collective A Vegan Brunch Affair

Chef Myisha “Maya” Mastersson arrived in a blaze of color and fanfare. The pinkhaired, pink-coated chef pulled up to my friend’s Algiers Point home in a Cadillac (not pink) packed with flowers, serving ware, table adornments, and the makings for an unforgettable brunch. I invited my well-travelled, former journalist, octogenarian friend, Robin, to join me in Black Roux Culinary Collective’s Vegan Brunch Affair—just so long as we could do it at her home. Between my four dogs (two of them rambunctious, destructive, nine-month-old puppies) and a hardworking historical renovator husband who would rather eat a bug than socialize over brunch on a Saturday, my house is not the ideal venue for a chef trying to compose a seven-course

Sumthin’, Sumpthin’” featuring foods of the African Diaspora presented in a dim sum style; Mediterranean; Tapas; and “A Vegan Brunch Affair”. She is a member of the Good Trouble Network, a non-profit coalition of hospitality workers in New Orleans that hosts monthly fundraisers for local social justice and human rights organizations. Seemingly inexhaustible, she is also starting a Led Zeppelin cover band with her husband, Adam—but that’s another story Mastersson is also as vibrant, compelling, and engaging as the food she prepares. And she knows full well that we feast first with our eyes. Her dishes are artfully composed of screamingly-fresh produce and lushly adorned with edible flowers.

From the Black Roux Culinary Collective Vegan Brunch Affair: (left) the “Lox Nest Monster” and (right) the “Garden of Eden”. Photos by Jyl Benson.

meal with cocktail pairings. Chef Mastersson danced a shimmy as she plated up the courses and mixed cocktails, conversing easily as she worked from sealed containers holding her prepped ingredients, leaving her only in need of a hot oven and a small saucepan. A native of Detroit who fell in love with New Orleans in the 1990s, Mastersson launched her dream business—fostering immersive culinary experiences in the intimacy of people’s homes, as well as through the luxury of culinary tours/ travel—just in time for the pandemic to shut her down in 2020. Now, in 2022, she has officially relaunched Black Roux Culinary Collective. “I knew I would call it Black Roux, because black is as far as you can take a roux, and there is a very fine line between a black roux and a burned one.” This past June, she led a group on an immersive culinary tour in Yelapa, Mexico. She’s begun hosting a monthly supper club at her home in the Marigny for up to twenty guests, conducts regular pop-ups around New Orleans, and offers catered experiences in private homes for up to fifty people. The themes and the menus for those experiences change every three months or so and include “A Little Dim

Robin, my epicurean friend, is thin as a wisp and eats very little. She cleaned her plate through all seven courses. We both did. The meal started with “Ramen in the Morning”: a vegan soft-boiled egg (silken tofu flavored with Middle Eastern black salt, the high sulfur content in which mimics the flavor of egg), confit carrot bacon, blueberry sausage, pickled collard greens, “bacon” broth (made from smoked mushrooms), and yam noodles. I obnoxiously tilted the bowl to my lips to consume every drop. This was paired with coffee spiked with Nigiri sake and finished with coconut cream. I eyed this beverage dubiously, but the pairing was brilliant, and I drained the glass. Up next was the “Garden of Eden,” featuring generous portions of fresh tropical fruit (passionfruit, starfruit, dragon fruit, gooseberries, persimmon, and papaya) lightly drizzled with rose-infused agave and served atop a swoosh of vegan turmeric yogurt and adorned with edible flowers. It was presented in a transparent glass orb that magnified the colors and concentrated the aroma of the fruit. This was paired with a light rose spritzer. Yet another feast for the eyes, the “Lox Ness Monster” combined lox-cured // J U L 2 2

Fishhawk

beets, vegan crème fraiche, heirloom tomato, spring onion, fried capers, micro dill, and a petite freshly-baked everything bagel served with a cucumber-dill martini. The martini carried over to also pair with “Let’s Toast”—small baguette toasts each with its own topping of smashed avocado, fresh hummus, and smashed roasted garlic. “Simba’s Waffle” married chicken-fried Lion’s Mane mushroom atop a small black garlic waffle with carrot bacon and a light barbecue bourbon sauce. A smoked Bourbon Cajun Mary accompanied and carried over to “The Southern Omelet,” which was made with an exterior of Just Egg (a plant-based egg substitute) filled with Cajun Smoked Jackfruit, braised collards, red pepper gravy, cashew crème, and a sweet potato biscuit. The final course, “Beign-Yay” brought together a fried ginger beignet, seasonal berries, coconut cream, and vegan chocolate ganache paired witch a peach-infused Moscato. Lauching this month, The Vegan Brunch Affair menu’s bright colors and refreshing flavors are as tantalizing an exploration of summer flavors as I’ve ever encountered. blackrouxcollective.com. —Jyl Benson

Invite the fishmongers over, you won’t regret it. Imagine hosting a fine, four-course dinner party—including wine pairings—out of your own home. To some of you skilled culinary show-offs, this may sound like a regular Saturday night. To most of us, it sounds like a massive pain in the ass—mandating a probably-minimum of seventy-two hours of menu planning, shopping, preparation, and clean up. Recently, I experienced the ultimate dinner party fantasy: I held an elaborate, four-course, high-end, wine-paired dinner in my own home, for my own friends. And I didn’t have to buy a single ingredient, toss a salad, pour a glass of wine, or wash a dish. I owe it all to the crackerjack culinary team at Fishhawk: a popup fishmonger business formed by Luci Winsberg, Tyler Correa, and Gina Mazitelli during the height of the pandemic in October 2020, which has expanded from their farmers’ market offerings to cater private dinners. The idea of having a private dinner catered in our house still feels unattainably fancy (to be candid, the experience was a gift I loved but would not have sprung for myself). Even presenting such high-caliber food and wine, Winsberg, Correa, and Mazitelli from Fishhawk made the experience feel easy, laid-back, and not at all awkward (as I’d imagine being served in your own home could totally have the potential to be). “Co-Chefs” Winsberg and Mazitelli handled the food, while Correa (Winsberg’s partner in Fishhawk and in life) kept the wine flowing. Winsberg emailed me menu options beforehand, which included three distinctly-different choices for each of the courses. It didn’t appear that we could go wrong, but we chose what sounded best to us: most of our choices were Latin-inspired, with a middle course of a Middle Eastern-leaning roasted eggplant with tahini, just because we thought it sounded good. I wasn’t sure what to expect, so was pleasantly surprised when Winsberg told me she and the team would arrive around 6:45 pm for a 7 pm seating—they do all of the prep work on their end, and only needed to utilize our stovetop and oven to cook the fish and scallops fresh. Our first course of seared scallops atop a bright, fresh salsa verde was piled high with crisp, subtly-bitter local greens. Next was the roasted eggplant, dressed with wilted baby kale, roasted pumpkin seeds, tomato confit vinaigrette, and a homemade tahini so lusciously creamy we all but licked the plates (a bit emboldened by being in the comfort of our own home, no doubt). For the main course Winsberg recommended leaving it up to her to select the freshest fish of that particular day—which I excitedly agreed to; I trusted her

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Fishhawk’s Private Dinner Experience, featuring pompano lightly fried with masa atop a miso corn broth with wild mushrooms, white hominy, collard greens, and Fresno chilies (top) and for dessert: café au lait ice cream-filled profiteroles (bottom). Photos by Alexandra Kennon.

judgement and had also assembled a group of adventurous eaters. The result was the freshest pompano I’ve encountered, prepared in a dish credited to Mazitelli’s culinary mastermind: the fish was dusted in masa and lightly fried, set atop a miso corn broth containing delicate wild mushrooms, white hominy, collard greens, and thinly-sliced Fresno chilies. The beautifully-colored result rendered the previously talkative table speechless— or at least unable to discuss anything besides the glorious fish at hand. My partner Sam’s food writer dad obsessively zoomed in on the photo we sent him, making an astute observation: “Plenty of people are great home cooks, but you can tell this dish was made by someone with culinary training. It’s just another level.” Of course, he’s right. It was a next-level meal, enjoyed comfortably atop our own dining room table. For dessert, we felt kind of bad choosing the café au lait ice cream-filled profiteroles, knowing they would have to transfer the frozen filling to our house on a hot summer day. But, they were among the menu options, and clearly the Fishhawk trio is not deterred by tricky dishes, so we sprung for them, and were the opposite of disappointed—whole leaves of fresh mint and a rich tempered chocolate sauce made the ice cream-filled cream puffs all the more decadent. On top of all of the incredible food and not having to drive home, we thoroughly enjoyed getting to gush about how much we loved everything to the small team as they (graciously) cleaned up our open kitchen behind them. Since then, we haven’t stopped talking about how much we enjoyed the whole experience—our only complaint is that now, hosting dinner parties the old fashioned way will never feel the same. fishhawknola.com —Alexandra Kennon

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CHEF PROFILE

Raising the Bahr

MONROE’S CELEBRITY CHEF CREATES SUPERLATIVE CULINARY EXPERIENCES THAT GO BEYOND THE FOOD Story by Chris Jay • Photo by Hays Porter

ory Bahr, the forty-fiveyear-old Monroe chef and restaurateur, whose rise to stardom included a high-profile Chopped win in 2012 followed by Food & Wine naming him Best New Chef in 2015, isn’t the same person he was when he started wearing the “celebrity chef” mantle over a decade ago. Though he remains laser-focused on creating what he calls “superlative experiences” for patrons of Parish Restaurant and Standard Coffee Co.—the restaurants that Bahr co-owns with wife and business partner Whitney—his approaches to cooking, management, and life were changed dramatically on the afternoon of December 5, 2021. That Sunday, Bahr was returning from a solo trip to his hunting lease. His Nissan Titan had just rolled to a stop at an inter48

section in downtown Monroe when a car traveling more than ninety miles per hour suddenly struck it from behind. Bahr’s truck was flung through the intersection by the impact, rolling twice before being struck a second time by the out-of-control vehicle. The second impact flattened the truck, pinning it against the wall of Standard Coffee Co., the coffee shop and ramen bar that the Bahrs opened in 2019. Against incredible odds, he emerged from the wreckage requiring only stitches, standing in his own parking lot. “I walked away from a wreck where first responders arriving on the scene, professionals who see a lot of crashes, assumed that I was dead,” Bahr said. “Whatever qualities my life may have from the outside looking in, the fact that I am still here at all is the result of what I

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see as a divine intervention.” Tall and disarmingly attractive, Bahr comes across as the kind of food personality who can effortlessly “turn on the charm” and host a cooking demo on national television, emcee a cook-off before a live audience of thousands, or walk the floor of a crowded restaurant greeting patrons with easygoing confidence. Actually, none of these things come naturally to Bahr, who said that he spent the first half of his career battling severe anxiety, panic disorder, and imposter syndrome. A high school dropout who never received his diploma or attended culinary school, Bahr said that early success in the restaurant industry “brought a lot of stress that I hadn’t been taught how to manage. There were times when I didn’t deserve my community’s support, but they stuck with me. I’m not perfect, and Monroe’s not perfect, but when we get together, it can be a lot of fun.” On a recent Saturday night at Parish, the get-together was in full swing. Bahr weaved among a dozen or so tables in the restaurant’s art-lined dining room wearing a trucker cap and a crisp, white chef’s jacket over jeans and cowboy boots. He disappeared into the kitchen frequently, emerging to huddle with the maître d’, greet guests, and present dishes like hand-pulled burrata with pepper jelly and warm biscuits, kimchi creste de gallo pasta with white pork Bolognese, and Parish’s popular tribute to the American diner burger, the double double. The menu at Parish includes a few holdovers from previous kitchens helmed by Bahr, including his signature duck wraps (a throwback to his days at Restaurant Cotton) and handmade pastas (Bahr previously celebrated his Italian roots at the now-shuttered Nonna), but there are not so many that the menu feels like a greatest hits album. The sixpage wine list includes organic options, a section entitled “American Cult Selections,” and a small but jaw-dropping list of sought-after Bordeaux bottles topping out at $1,600—making this the rare restaurant where patrons can enjoy a 2003 Château Mouton Rothschild alongside a platter of deviled eggs or a double-decker cheeseburger. Locally-sourced ingredients are always the stars of the show at Bahr’s restaurants. Parish buys directly from several regional farms including Current Farms in Linville and Estes Farms in Ruston,

but Bahr still finds himself walking the rows at farmers’ markets, seeking inspiration for new ways to spotlight local farms and seasonal crops. This past spring he took Parish’s commitment to local sourcing a step further by planting figs, peaches, mayhaws, pears, limes, and more in the lot adjacent to the restaurant. “Over the next eighteen months, we’re going to turn the greenspace next door into our own little farm,” Bahr said, citing farmto-table pioneers Highlands Bar & Grill, The French Laundry, and Manresa as having inspired his team to grow some of their own ingredients. In addition to the local ingredients, Bahr sources rare and exciting food and drink from the Gulf South and across the US. Parish uses Instagram to notify followers when he’s somehow managed to procure an armload of black truffles, a slab of perfectly-marbled A5 American Wagyu beef, or a spring shipment of Malpeque oysters from Prince Edward Island. Among photos of fatty blue crabs and highly allocated bottles of bourbon, the @parishrestaurant Instagram profile showcases one local resource more often than any other: Parish employees. At Parish, service flows from one course to the next with the almost-imperceptible inertia of deep, swift water. The restaurant’s servers are knowledgeable when called upon, attentive but not intrusive, and as warm and hospitable as old friends. “It’s one thing to stand on the food, but food isn’t a complete experience,” Bahr said, expressing a sentiment that he might not have agreed with a decade ago at the height of his celebrity. Now, “I attribute the success of Parish as much to the front of the house as I do to the fact that we cook good food. . . I’m more concerned with everyone on my team getting along and doing what they love doing while they’re here at Parish,” Bahr said. “I haven’t changed my commitment to providing superlative experiences, but I have changed my outlook on how I get there. Life’s too short.” h

Peruse the menu and make your reservations at Parish and Standard Coffee Co. via parishrestaurant.com and standardcoffeela.com.

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Culture

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THE

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The Village of Versailles A WORLD WITHIN A WORLD IN NEW ORLEANS EAST Story by Jason Christian • Photos by Emily Kask

In response to a wave of job loss in the community of Versailles after the BP oil spill in 2010, community leaders sought out ways to fight food insecurity. One of the resulting initiatives was VEGGI Farmers Cooperative, a garden at the heart of the village, where aquaponics, greenhouses, and Vietnamese farming tradition meet to grow produce enjoyed throughout the community and across New Orleans.

very Saturday morning, the vendors arrive to the market in Village de l’Est long before the sun breaks over Bayou Sauvage. They line both sides of the Ly’s Supermarket parking lot on Alcee Fortier Boulevard, their wares arranged in ice chests, on tables, or on the ground atop cardboard or tarps: blue crabs, dried shrimp, garden starts, house plants, prepared meals, produce, and herbs—coriander, lemongrass, water spinach, Thai basil, bitter melon, and snake gourds as long as your leg. It’s a tradition that goes back more than forty years—overseen by the Ly family, who in 2005 received the Southern Foodways Alliance Guardian of the Tradition award for their role in spearheading its inception and ensuring its continuation. By now, these vendors are the elders of the New Orleans Vietnamese community, as are many of their customers. They show up with flashlights, hoping to snag the choicest offerings, and they continue to trickle in until around 8:30 or 9, at which time everyone packs up and heads home. On a recent such Saturday, just after 50

dawn, I drove twenty minutes east from my home, down Chef Menteur Highway, to the fabled market to see it with my own eyes. It was still cool at that hour, but the heat was threatening to come on strong. Customers and vendors were quietly chatting, perhaps haggling, and nearly everyone was speaking Vietnamese. Money and goods exchanged hands. Most of the vendors were elderly women. They wore loose blouses and pants and many donned a nón lá, a conical Vietnamese hat made of palm leaves. A seafood vendor named Thong Q. Phan told me that after the harvest one should expect more vegetables on display. It seemed to me there was already enough there in boxes and baskets to feed several families. Phan came to this country, to this neighborhood, in 1978, he said, at a time when waves of his fellow countrymen and women were fleeing on boats and finding their way to the United States. Over the years, he saw the area grow into a formidable community, with a thriving fishing industry, which has, unfortunate-

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ly, been knocked around and greatly diminished—first by Hurricane Katrina, and later by the BP oil spill in 2010. Phan said that sales have been even slower lately, and he speculates that’s because gas prices have risen in recent months. “The people have a certain amount of money,” he said. “They cut down eating to save money for gas.” As if by some karmic justice, a moment later, he sold a bag of frozen king mackerel to an older Black gentleman who lives nearby. The fish was cleaned and ready to cook. “Good eating,” the customer told me. He added that, besides fish, he buys his live chickens and ducks at the market, too. Although Vietnamese Americans live in virtually every corner of New Orleans these days, the community’s heart and soul has always been in Village de l’Est. But you won’t hear anyone refer to the neighborhood by that name. Instead, everyone calls it “Versailles,” named after the Versailles Arms apartment complex, a housing project that housed many of the

first arrivals from Vietnam. (The property was badly damaged after Hurricane Katrina and transformed by developers into the current 2 Oaks Apartments.) The Village of Versailles is one of the densest enclaves of Vietnamese-Americans in this country. The neighborhood opened in 1964, a six hundred-acre section of drained marshland in the much larger development known as New Orleans East or “the East.” After the 1975 fall of Saigon, refugees began to resettle in the predominantly Black neighborhood. About one thousand families came first, nearly all of them Catholics (the Buddhists came later); the US government and Catholic organizations helped sponsor the move. The refugees were escaping persecution and seeking better lives, and they continued to arrive over the next several years, until the Vietnamese population peaked at roughly five thousand by the year 2000. Then came Hurricane Katrina, a disaster that resulted in community-wide devastation due to floodwaters and dispersion of its residents across the

country. The recovery story of Versailles is told in filmmaker S. Leo Chiang’s 2009 documentary A Village Called Versailles, which captures the community’s remarkable return: Within a year, much of the city was rebuilt by its residents, and by 2008, over ninety percent of the community’s population had returned. The film also documents the community’s successful battle against the city’s efforts to open the Chef Menteur Landfill as a place to dump toxic debris from the hurricane, just miles from Versailles. Still today, the community remains tightly-bound by its shared history and language, along with Mary Queen of Vietnam Church—established in 1983 as the first Catholic parish in the United States for a majority Vietnamese congregation. Today, if you drive the neighborhood streets, you’ll see poverty, to be sure, but there’s an undeniable, thriving middle class—large suburban homes with landscaped gardens in front and vegetable gardens in the back—and Vietnamese-American–owned law firms, pharmacies, jewelry stores, nail salons, community centers, grocery stores, and more: businesses meant to serve the needs of this tight-knit community. If at first the community was insular out of necessity, it was food that served as one of the earliest connective tissues to the rest of New Orleans. There is perhaps no better example of this than Dong

Phuong Bakery and Restaurant. In Vietnamese, the name Dong Phuong simply means “east”. The restaurant was originally founded by a Vietnamese family who gave the place its name, the Dong Phuong Oriental Restaurant, and soon thereafter, in 1980 or ’81 sold it to a woman who worked for them named De Tran. Tran’s son was married to a baker’s daughter called Huong, who’d been making her father’s traditional mung bean cakes and other treats in her kitchen to sell within the community. The family set up a small section of baked goods in the restaurant, but Huong had larger aspirations. In 1982, she opened her own bakery next door, which endures as the Dong Phuong Restaurant and Bakery known and loved today. In the four decades since, she has turned a once-small operation into a major food producer, one of the most celebrated in the Crescent City. Huong still manages the day-to-day operations, while her daughter Linh Tran Garza acts as president of the company. The bakery now serves eighteen varieties of traditional and not-so-traditional bánh mì made with the Huongs' version of New Orleans French loaves—sometimes affectionally called “Vietnamese poboys,” a term that isn’t exactly accurate, though is sufficient to lure hesitant Louisianans to the sandwich. And once you’ve experienced one, well, there is no need for an- In Versailles, or Village L'Est, touchstones of Vietnamese culture are integrated into the community's foodways, religious traditions, architecture, and landscaping. other case to be made for them. JJ_EBR_CntryRds-qtr,blck_Mosq.Smmr_6-13-22_JJ-EBR_CntryRds-Mosq,Rain-qtrblck_6-13-22 6/13/2022 9:58 AM Page 1

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Besides the brioches, steamed buns, tapioca, and other treats, the bakery sells around six thousand French loaves a day, Garza said, except Tuesdays—their day off. Those loaves and other goods are delivered to roughly eighty different restaurants and supermarkets around the city, and to Baton Rouge on Fridays. The bakery also exports bean cakes and other products across the country, mostly to the East Coast. And then, there are the famous Dong Phuong king cakes. Remarkably, in an era of fast food,

Huong’s king cakes are made by hand, and it takes two days to do it. This is even more surprising considering the recent demand for them during the short and hectic Carnival season, when securing one is akin to procuring a coveted Muses shoe. The bakery started selling the storied cakes in 2010, selling only around one hundred that first year. By 2015, word had spread and the bakery sold seven thousand king cakes, “way more than we anticipated,” Garza told the Southern Foodways Alliance in an interview

that year. It was more than double what they’d sent out the door the year before. Every year the demand has risen, and in 2018, Dong Phuong won a prestigious James Beard America’s Classics award, putting the business even more prominently on the culinary map; sales only ramped up from there. “Every year my mom and I turn our office into, like, a situation room, a war room,” Garza said of the weeks before Mardi Gras, “and kind of plot out the number of staff we need.” In 2022, incredibly, the bakery sold around sixty thousand king cakes, Gar-

za said. She laughed, as though in disbelief. “We’ve got it down,” she said. All the hard work, all the trial and error, has paid off. Bridging all of these worlds—local food producers, farmer’s markets, restaurants, and the broader public—is a little nonprofit in Versailles called VEGGI Farmer’s Cooperative. In the wake of the BP oil spill, as fish populations collapsed and untold Vietnamese American workers lost their jobs, VEGGI launched, in 2011, with the intent to address the com-

One of the village's most prominent institutions is the Dong Phuong Restaurant and Bakery, which serves the most popular king cake in New Orleans, in addition to traditional Vietnamese pastries and its famed "Vietnamese po-boys," or bánh mì.

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munity’s needs. What better way to tackle food insecurity in a battered economy than to start an urban farm? The group, led by a team of young Vietnamese Americans, leased a small acreage across the street from Mary Queen of Vietnam Church and started hashing out what could be done. They won some small grants and got the support of various organizations, including the church, and set about training a dozen out-of-work community members on how to utilize aquaponics and greenhouses to grow their own organic food. Soon the nonprofit was selling their crops across New Orleans. Today, VEGGI works with a number of food producers and organizations on various projects, including a subscription-based Community Supported Agriculture (CSA) network, donating to a number of families in Versailles, and supplying produce to Marjie’s Grill, Mister Mao, Mosquito Supper Club, and several other trendy restaurants in the city. They also sell produce and some packaged food products at the Crescent City Farmers Market, things like pickled greens, infused oils, and the like—family recipes made by locals in small batches that are available nowhere else. “Creating sustainable incomes through urban farming is the core of VEGGI,” Operations Manag-

er Maddiy Edwards said, “and working with growers of different generations.” I was able to visit the farm one recent afternoon and spoke to a young farmer while he watered crops. He echoed what I’d heard from a number of second-generation Vietnamese Americans who grew up in Versailles: the young people simply aren’t as interested in farming as their elders, like the woman pulling weeds not far from where we spoke, and so some of their foodways are in danger of being lost. It’s true that many of the new generation are moving out, going to college, and finding jobs in health care or tech or other sectors, then moving away from Versailles for good. It’s the familiar, and lamentable, cost of assimilation. VEGGI, its orga- In addition to its role in reducing food insecurity in Versailles, VEGGI also utilizes the knowledge of community elders to preserve Vietnamese foodways for the next generation. nizers hope, is offsetting some of those costs. By intentionally acquir- soon. There are plenty of reasons to come day Lunar New Year (Tết,) festival. They ing agricultural and culinary knowledge home—if not to stay, then to visit—and come to see family and friends, to watch from the neighborhood’s elders, and serv- evidence of such congregating is every- the dragon dancing, hear the musical ing as a place to hold it as a thing of val- where. Families, Buddhist and Catholics performers, play games, stroll around and ue, VEGGI not only provides a means of alike, still gather every Sunday at Dong sample the fried bananas, grilled corn, making a living in Versailles. It also helps Phuong, as they’ve done for decades. tapioca, vermicelli, and all the rest of the residents of all generations to reconnect They dine at Ba Mien and Pho Bang and familiar delicacies. h with their roots right here in New Orle- at the other restaurants in the area, whendpbakery.com ever they get the chance. And every year, ans. veggifarmcoop.com thousands gather on the grounds of Mary Even with all of its hardships, VerQueen of Vietnam Church for the threesailles isn’t going anywhere, anytime

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E S S AY

Notes on the Weather

A CHANCE OF RAIN, A DIAL ON THE SUN

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By Ed Cullen hy local television devotes so much time to the weather is a puzzlement. Young people put weather news on the same attic shelf as analog clocks, AM/FM radio and

the dial telephone. Strike young people from the weather audience. While we’re at it, strike working people with cell phones. That leaves people like me. I have a cell phone, but I rely on clocks, a wrist watch, and radios to tell me where I am in the day. When my grandsons disappear, the first place I look is my study where there is a desk model telephone. The boys like calling their parents on the numbers I had them memorize when they were little. I am teaching a young visitor to my garden the workings of a sun dial. We are in basic astronomy at the moment, and Conner’s attention drifts. “Why,” he asks, “do you have a sun dial?” And, thus, begins a chat about the importance of a liberal arts education. Conner is five, but his day is more structured than mine. He has school, soccer, and martial arts. I have oceans of free time. Television knows this about people my age: We are, essentially, bums who have made our own provisions for life after the work-a-day world. Most people like me refer to themselves as retired. I’m comfortable with bum. I am a time bum. I have time for weather forecasts that tell me little, a garden that lets me appreciate the produce section of grocery stores, and garden visits from a boy not as tall as a mature eggplant. “Ed, what’s an eggplant?” Conner has more questions than mosquitoes in a rain barrel. “I planted an egg,” I say. “You’re looking at the result.” “Is that true?” “No.” Conner says I’m silly, but I’m just making up for years of pretending to be serious. The weather forecasters are serious. It’s not rain chances for Thursday. It’s “Now, let’s look at rain chances for OUR Thursday.” That lets us own the weather. We can do nothing about it, but it’s ours. All the weather segments in a newscast make me wonder if something’s going on that television isn’t telling me about. Do we really have this much time to devote to the weather or is it a distraction from forest fires, shooting people in supermarkets, big countries laying waste to smaller neighbors, COVID, cancer, and other catastrophes? But weather forecasts warn us of floods and hurricanes. Yes, and they remind us that we do little to prevent flooding. If we wish to avoid hurricanes, should we move and take our chances with monster tornadoes in the Midwest and wild fires in the West? The clock on the wall tells me it’s time to survey the garden and perform the daily tasks of weeding and watering. The weather forecast “calls” for rain, but I know that call often goes unheeded by the clouds. I once resisted summer weather until I realized it was better to embrace it. Work and exercise in the morning. Lay up in the afternoon. Smile kindly at the weather person with his or her colorful lightning bolts, fronts, systems, long-range guesses, and commercials. The phone in my pocket announces that rain is close. I await confirmation from the weather guy. h

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Champions Are Made Here

HOW THE WORLD'S NUMBER-TWO-RANKED WOMAN WATER SKIER CAME TO TRAIN IN ZACHARY, LOUISIANA By Beth D'Addono

ravel down Barnett Road, a winding, wooded thoroughfare off Route 64 about seventeen miles north of Baton Rouge, and the scenery is characteristic of rural Louisiana. Ramshackle houses set back from the road, yard dogs standing sentry. A small convenience store that would be called a corner store if it was in the city and was on a corner. Round a bend, and a small sign announces Bennett’s Waterski and Wakeboard School, set back from the road in Zachary, a town of about twenty thousand residents. Down the road the site unfolds into an impressive beehive of activity. Dozens of sleek Master Craft boats are lined up like dominos, along with a bunch of parked cars and a couple of tractors. There’s a smattering of buildings, the owners’ home, a few rental cottages, dormitories for the kids eight and up who cycle through weekly ski camps all summer, and a swimming pool to keep the kids busy. A well-outfitted shop carries all manner of high-tech gear for water skiers and wakeboarders. Straight ahead, there are several open-air covered patio areas facing the three man-made lakes that dominate the view: two 2100 feet long and one 1400 feet long, expanses of water that rarely sit unrippled. It’s these lakes that draw skiers of all stripes, from the beginners to the college teams to the international athletes that flock here every spring like purple Martins coming home to roost. Bennett’s, owned by Jay and Anne Bennett, started up the road on Fausse Lake back in 1976. The newlyweds, who shared a passion for professional water skiing, wound up taking on two more partners and buying an abandoned catfish farm, which

Photo courtesy of Hanna Straltsova

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opened as the school’s official site in 1978. Bennett’s hosted the Water Skiing World Championships in 1984. “That pretty much put us on the map,” recalled Jay. Both Jay and Anne skied competitively, holding a slew of titles between the two of them. Anne continues to compete in her age group, although she took a break this year to focus on another passion, competitive CrossFit. Jay switched competing for coaching. The school has a reputation for excellence, thanks to Jay’s knack for honing talent and helping athletes rise to the height of their abilities. Young water skiers from Canada, Sweden, Japan, the UK, Australia, and across the U.S. come to Bennett’s to train. Among these athletes is Hanna Straltsova, the International Water-Skiing Federation’s number-two-ranked woman in the world. Her powerful, take-no-prisoners style on the water distinguishes this athlete, who seems absolutely fearless behind the ski boat, attacking ramps of dizzying height. From Novopolotsk, Belarus, Straltsova has dedicated much of her life to water skiing since she was seven years old. “I tried ice skating when I was five, then gymnastics, but I didn’t really like that,” she recalled. “It wasn’t until I got on the water that I really knew it was what I wanted to do.” In 2017, Straltsova followed the advice of fellow skiers, and traveled to Louisiana to attend the University of Louisiana

Monroe (ULM). There, she planned to earn her masters in exercise science. And she wanted to train on the University’s renowned water ski team. “Many schools have water ski teams, but not many have high level athletes,” explained Straltsova of her decision to attend ULM. “The Monroe team has won twenty-nine national titles, and many of their skiers have continued their careers professionally.” In addition to the school’s success rate when it comes to producing professional skiers, it also offered a scholarship to members of its collegiate team, as well as access to a beautiful training grounds. “There’s a lake with a boat, with everything to train,” said Straltsova. “My country is not rich. We don’t have the best conditions in the world. As I was growing up in my sports career, I needed better conditions and more time on the water.” She has trained with Jay Bennett since 2018. “I had one semester of school left, so instead of going home for the summer I was taking classes. And there was nobody from the ski team at school. I asked Jay if I could work at his place and he said yes. He is an amazing coach.” Since her arrival in the United States, two world events have directly impacted Straltsova’s goals. First, there was the global pandemic, which forced her to remain in Belarus for her typical training and competition season “I couldn’t go anywhere, so I just practiced every day.” Competitions started again in 2021,

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ushering forward Stratsova’s best career year to date. She won four pro tournaments, coming in second place in Jump and Overall at the World Championships, and winning Cable World Championships in Tricks and Overall. Bennett’s is one of her sponsors, along with D3skis, and Camaro Wetsuits. Earlier this year, just before the training season began, Straltsova’s world was once again shaken, this time by the Russian attack on Ukraine. Although Belarus is considered an independent country, its president Alexander Lukashenko’s diplomatic reliance upon Vladimir Putin has put the country at odds with Western nations. Along with Russian athletes, Belarusian athletes are currently barred from international competition. Because of this, Straltsova made the difficult decision to leave her country’s Water Ski Federation and move permanently to the U.S. She is currently competing under a neutral white flag, but in 2023, if things go as planned, she will be earning her world titles for the International Water Ski & Wakeboard Federation under the U.S. flag. “Hanna is so talented,” said Jay of his driven trainee and the difficulty of the decision. “She has to do what she needs to do to make a living.” For Straltsova, pandemics, world turmoil, and economic sanctions are mostly background noise. She’s left her family and her fellow athletes to live in a little Louisiana town almost six thousand

miles away from home with her golden doodle Kona. “It took me some time to adapt to the heat here, especially training when it’s hot, but I’ve adapted,” she said. “At first it didn’t seem like home, everything was so different. But now I feel comfortable, and Zachary is home for now. I love skiing and being on the water. I love to compete. That’s what I know. . . It’s what I love.” The training regime for a skier at Straltsova’s level is rigorous. She starts every day with strength training, critical to being able to master the technical challenges that come with high jumps. Then she does three to four fifteen minutes sets on the water: short high energy bursts where she’s focused on all three of her events: slaloms, tricks, and jumps. This is followed by recovery time, until the afternoon session. Whenever she is not training, she coaches at Bennett’s. Although she has a slew of world records and titles under her belt, the one she’s most focused on these days is breaking the world record for ski jumping behind the boat, which is 203 feet. Straltsova’s record is 181. “It’s what I love to do, and I want to be the best.” h

See Straltsova in action via videos on the Bennett's Water Ski & Wakeboard School Facebook Page, and learn more about the school's offerings at skibennetts.com.

"Atlantic City Birthday," from the Jack Bradley Collection at the Louis Armstrong House Museum. Taken on Armstrong's 64th birthday July 4, 1965. Courtesy of the museum.

A T R U E A M E R I C A N H O L I D AY

Too La Loo, Pops!

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF LOUIS ARMSTRONG'S UN-BIRTHDAY

By Sam Irwin

as Louis Armstrong born on Independence Day? A bsolute ly. “Mayann told me that the night I was born there was a great big shooting scrape in the Alley and the two guys killed each other. It was the Fourth of July, a big holiday in New Orleans, when almost anything can happen. Pretty near everybody celebrates with pistols, shot guns, or any other weapon that’s handy,” wrote Armstrong in his 1954 autobiography, Satchmo: My Life in New Orleans. So how did it come to be that August 4, 1901, is now the generally accepted birthdate of the great entertainer? In 1970, Armstrong, famous, wealthy, and one of the most recognizable people in the world, made an appearance on the Dick Cavett Show where he talked about his Fourth of July birthday. Cavett: When were you born? Armstrong: Nineteen hundred. Twelve o’clock at night. Cavett: It is—it’s twelve at night? So how did they know whether your birthday was on the—what—your birthday’s on … I thought it was on the Fourth. Armstrong: Well, I’m—no, I didn’t ask Mama all that, I’m just glad to be here, I mean—I wouldn’t interfere in her business, you know?

There, Pops said it on national television—he was born on Fourth of July, 1900, twelve o’clock at night, never mind the quibble if it was July 4 at midnight, one minute before the next day. Armstrong always celebrated his birthday on Independence Day, but he was coy about his birth year; jazz historians have found discrepancies in Pops’s permanent record. The first recorded instance of Armstrong himself writing down his birthdate was for the United States military draft. Possibly to appear older, he marked July 4, 1900, as his date

of birth, which would have made him eighteen. Then in 1937, he recorded a July 4, 1901, DOB on his Social Security application when he was filming a movie for Paramount Pictures. Whether Pops was born on July 4, 1900, or 1901 was rendered moot in 1988 when New Orleans researcher Tad Jones found Armstrong’s baptismal record at Sacred Heart Catholic Church, which showed that his birthday was actually August 4, 1901. The proof was in black and white. The Times-Picayune’s September 24, 1988 edition ran an article titled “Armstrong: Give or Take a Year” with an under-researched explanation of why the musician might have chosen the Independence Day birthdate. “For a poor and ill-educated black man not to know his birthday was common in those days, and scholars figured that Armstrong simply borrowed the nation’s birthday for his own. He apparently had no birthday celebrations as a child.” The choice of Armstrong’s birthdate may well have been deliberate; freedmen of the nineteenth century had special reasons to honor Independence Day. Prior to the Civil War, Independence Day was, as Ethan J. Kytle and Blain Roberts documented in their 2018 article in The Atlantic, noted as “almost the only holy-day kept in America” though the promise of the Declaration of Independence had only applied to White Society. Post-Civil War, “Independence Day … became a freedman’s holiday during Reconstruction. Whites might not work on the Fourth of July, but it was blacks who held parades, picnics, and dances,” wrote LSU historian Joe Gray Taylor in his 1974 book Louisiana Reconstructed, 1863-1877. After the Confederacy’s defeat, Louisiana’s major newspapers reflected ambivalence toward the holiday. The July 5, 1867, Baton Rouge Tri-Weekly Advocate announced “The Fourth passed quietly away. There was a meeting of colored

people under the market, but no canons were fired, no processions organized. At night some rockets went up, a few dozen Roman candles lit up the streets, the rain set in and the Fourth of July passed away.” The July 3, 1872 Daily Picayune labeled the nation’s birthday as a “political holiday.” The July 4, 1874 Picayune noted “There will be no blowing of trumpets, no rattling of drums, no fizzling of fire crackers; our bold militia have postponed their martial parade. There will be no firing of cannon; and, lastly, not a speech; no unfledged orator soaring heedlessly through the air on the American eagle." But the South’s Black population, who could now share in their country’s Independence, celebrated heartily—at least while under the protection of Reconstruction. Perhaps the day was best observed in Charleston, South Carolina where the celebration was truly a Black holiday. A parade traveled down the main streets and ended at White Point Garden where orators recited the Emancipation Proclamation, Declaration of Independence, and Thirteenth Amendment. They danced the "Too La Loo," a subversive dance that allowed the formerly enslaved “to poke fun at the elite courtship rituals of their former masters while also engaging in a raucous celebration of their own emancipation,” according to Kytle and Roberts. The dance’s association with Independence Day celebrations was so prevalent that “Too La Loo” came to be a nickname for the Fourth. The tide shifted when the Spanish-American War of 1898 re-established a nationalist unity and encouraged whites to celebrate their freedom from King George once again. It was time for “one of the greatest celebrations of the sort the United States has ever witnessed.” The Picayune July 3, 1898 front page was dedicated to war news but page seven was filled with “for the first time since the civil war” stories of celebrations in Atlanta, Vicksburg, and other Southern cities. By 1901, white New Orleans had fully re-embraced Independence Day. A seven-column headline proclaimed, “A GREAT FOURTH IN NEW ORLEANS.” Racism and prejudicial attitudes still prevailed in the newspaper, however, as it reported that one of the most popular attractions at the party was throwing rotten eggs at a Black person’s head, at three shots for five cents. It was laughed off as the foolish antics of the “customary side show class.” Biographer Lawrence Bergreen suggested Armstrong himself chose the date because he had a “pride in a country and a region” even though that country and region “wanted nothing to do with his kind.” By 1930, Armstrong had achieved stardom under the worst of Jim Crow. Did he remember when the Fourth of July was a “Black” holiday? Was writing down “July 4, 1900” on the government’s draft card a moment of activism that has largely gone unheard?

Throughout his life and career, Armstrong participated in small and large protests. He relished the instances when Black New Orleanians overcrowded the segregated street cars. Though he was on occasion labeled as an “Uncle Tom” during the Civil Rights era, Armstrong made his views known in the 1957 media coverage of the Little Rock school integration crisis, saying “(with) the way they are treating my people in the South, the government can go to hell.” He said President Eisenhower was “two-faced” with “no guts” and the Arkansas governor was an “uneducated plow boy.” The United States often suffers from social amnesia. In 1875, the Fourth of July was a Black holiday. By 1901, white people had made it theirs, again. Reconstruction traded in for Jim Crow. World wars, civil rights, Vietnam, Cold War, 9-11, Obama, Black Lives Matter, Trump, and George Floyd are a long way (and yet not that far at all) from the Emancipation Proclamation and the Fourteenth Amendment. Louis Armstrong would be 121 this year, and our twenty-first century society has largely forgotten what Independence Day meant to his grandparents. For years after his death, New Orleans kept Armstrong’s Fourth of July fire burning with Jackson Square and Armstrong Park concerts honoring Pops’ birthday. But in 2001, on the centennial of his birth, Louisiana’s Culture, Recreation and Tourism office created the Satchmo Summerfest to be held the first week in August. With state recognition, it became official: Louis Armstrong was born on August 4, 2001. The news of the birthday shift did not sit well with New Orleans music mainstay Greg Stafford, who well understood the importance of the Fourth to Black people. “My feeling is that people tend to dwell into the social lives of Black people and sometimes don’t understand the way Black people live,” Stafford said in an interview for Offbeat magazine in 2013. Cherice Harrison-Nelson, better known as "Queenie Reesie" among New Orleans’ Mardi Gras Indian Nation, understands. In the same article, she said her mother celebrated the culture of Black New Orleans in the “ways that the people who birthed the culture and bore the culture celebrated it. So [Louis] celebrated his birthday on July 4th and that [was] good enough for her.” It was trumpeter Wynton Marsalis who said that Armstrong's music represents “the sound of America and the freedom that it is supposed to represent.” More than a hundred years after the birth of Mayann’s gifted son, we can only wonder about that storied Independence Day. Did Mayann comprehend the injustice of her parent’s slavery? Did her son? Were they protesting the social order or simply appreciating the preciousness of American citizenship? “That’s the mystery we’ll never know,” Stafford demurred. h //J U L 2 2

Escapes

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HEARTLANDS TOURS MARRIES

AGRITOURISM WITH

LOCAL MUSIC, STARTING

F A R M V I S I TS

THIS

FALL

BEHIND THE SCENES

Encounters in the Heartland JAMES AND TAYLOR MCCANN LAUNCH A NEW AGRITOURISM EXPERIENCE

aised on fresh fish and farm stands, cruising in my mom’s station wagon toward citrus groves, bushels of just-picked fruit, and jugs of local honey—I learned early on the value of shaking the hand that feeds you. We would go berry pick-

Story by April Hamilton • Photos by Kim Meadowlark ing and churn those juicy strawberries into the best pink ice cream. Eating local was our norm. The tradition has stayed with me, and my first stop for groceries to this day is the farmer’s market, where I revel in the chance to meet the folks growing my food.

Beyond the growers, the next piece in the foodways puzzle is place: knowing where these farmers sow their crops and touching the soil where food is grown. This fall, local musicians James and Taylor McCann are fostering such connections between local eaters and farms

Heartland Tours aims to bring consumers face to face with the day-to-day operations of the farms that produce our local crops—from pecans and cotton to vegetables and sugarcane, as well as livestock.The tour ends at Cannatella Outdoors Farms (pictured) in Melville, Louisiana— which farms grain, sugarcane, and cattle.

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through the launch of their new company, Heartland Tours. This multi-day educational bus tour brings passengers to the grounds of eight diverse Louisiana farms, where they’ll be greeted by farmers and local agriculture experts. Though the full tour is a three-night, three-and-

By connecting directly with farmers like Denise Cannatella (below), the McCanns are unveiling the mystery of where our foods come from while also celebrating the work of our region’s agricultural leaders.

a-half day adventure, other ticket packages suit the needs of every traveler. The experience culminates with a farm to table feast at St. Landry Parish’s La Casetta at the Farm—a once-celebrated bobwhite quail and sporting clay hunting lodge converted into a rustic-elegant venue—with live performances by the McCanns. The farm-loving singer-songwriters blend their talents to educate and entertain, currently performing as James McCann and Taylor McCann and the Northbound Drifters—and promising music along the tour route in addition to the grand finale concert. “We carry mu-

sic with us wherever we go,” said James. The concept for Heartland Tours has its origins in Taylor’s previous work as the Executive Director of the Louisiana Grazing Lands Coalition, for which she organized a bus tour for cattle ranchers in 2017. “That first year we went to Texas,” said Taylor. “I loved everything about organizing that trip. The next year we went to Oklahoma and Texas and in 2019 we kept it local in Louisiana. I realized I could do this for all of agriculture. That’s how the idea got started.” James, also, has special experience in agriculture as an economist for the National Resources Conservation Services. The tour has come together as a major act of collaboration with people like Denise Cannatella of Cannatella Outdoors Farms and La Casetta. “We want to inform and educate,” said Cannatella. “Agricultural products are everywhere. This is farm to life. It takes all of us to feed the world.” The tours serve to educate people about the importance of our local agriculture industry, while also giving farmers an additional source of revenue. “What is agri-tourism if the farmers aren’t making money?” asked Taylor. To get a small taste of the tour experience to come, I recently made the drive out to Cannatella Farms myself. I turned as directed down the gravel road, past the house with the pond, corn standing tall on my left and sugarcane waving on my right. My GPS announced, “you have arrived.” I imagined

a farmer emerging from the field to say hello in that Louisiana hospitality way. Cannatella is working on signage to ensure visitors find her welcome mat. This is the site of the tour’s end, which Taylor described as “a big throw down,” following the final tour of the fields with a special emphasis on Cannatella’s infatuation: the equipment. “I do it all,” she says. “I just don’t drive the tractors. We share a deep passion for agriculture. We want to share our love for what we do.” “We’re excited about this,” said James.

The inaugural tour will take place this fall from October 27–30, featuring visits to Louisiana farms growing pecans, cotton vegetables, goats, cattle, and sugarcane—as well as a visit to the Center for River Studies in Baton Rouge. Ticket options range from the full trip, with hotel stays included, at $1,000 to single day tours at $200–250 to $25 tickets to the farm concert at Cannatella Farms. To learn more, visit heartlandtoursla.com.

Taylor and James McCann are bringing together their expertise in entertainmnet and agriculture to create a one-of-a-kind tourism experience across Louisiana.

A RESTFUL STOP FOR TRAVELERS NEAR THE BROUSSARD, LA SPORTS COMPLEX

Family Time

ParksideRVPark.com

“The public needs to know where their food comes from and how it comes to their table. We really need to connect the dots. Taylor’s the brainiac,” he continued, saluting his wife’s talents in filming and coordinating all the tour stops, and her musical genius. She is quick to correct him. “No, James is the brainiac. He’s the engine that keeps the numbers going. He inspires me.” Making music together keeps them in pure harmony. h

“Water Dimensions”

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Art shows, Art classes, and more!

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Look for our AUGUST DEEP SOUTH DESIGN ISSUE on stands next month!

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Directory of Merchants

Albany, LA Livingston Parish CVB

Baton Rouge, LA Allwood Furniture 16 Alzheimer’s Service of the Capital Area 47 55 Artistry of Light Becky Parrish Advance Skincare 61 Blue Cross Blue Shield 13 Drusilla Imports 24 East Baton Rouge Parish Library 64 Elizabethan Gallery 14 Franciscan Missionaries of Our Lady University 10 J & J Exterminating 51 L’Auberge Casino & Hotel 31 Losey Insurance and Financial Services 26 Louisiana Public Broadcasting 61 LSU Museum of Art 39 The Manship Theatre 22 Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center 19 Mid-City Artisans 59 Pennington Biomedical Research Center 7 Pinetta’s European 46 Restaurant Three Roll Distilling 56 Wilson & Wilson Attorneys, 53 LLC WRKF 89.3 FM 61 Brookhaven, MS Brookhaven Tourism Council 18 60

Broussard, LA Parkside RV Park

Ferriday, LA Brakenridge Furniture

Grand Isle, LA Grand Isle Tourism Department

Hammond, LA Tangipahoa Parish CVB

Jackson, MS University Press of Mississippi 6 Visit Mississippi 5 Lafayette, LA Allwood Furniture

Lake Charles Visit Lake Charles

LaPlace, LA River Parishes Tourist Commission

Mandeville, LA St. Tammany Parish Tourist Commission 14 Mansura, LA Avoyelles Tourism Commission

West Monroe, LA Discover MonroeWest Monroe

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Morgan City, LA Plaquemine, LA Cajun Coast CVB 55 Iberville Parish Tourism Louisiana Shrimp and Petroleum Department 23 Festival 28 Port Allen, LA Natchez, MS West Baton Rouge CVB 12 27 West Baton Rouge Museum 52 Live Oak Construction Monmouth Historic Inn 32 Murray Land & Homes Scott, LA Realty 11 Bob’s Tree Preservation 46 Natchez City Sightseeing 33 Natchez Convention Promotion Sorrento, LA Commission 40 Ascension Parish Tourism Natchez Crepe Myrtle Festival 3 Commission 18 Natchez Olive Market 40 United Mississippi Bank 45 St. Francisville, LA Artistry of Light 55 New Iberia, LA Grandmother’s Buttons 37 Iberia Parish CVB 49 Heirloom Cuisine and Sage Hill Gifts 29 New Orleans, LA The Magnolia Cafe 36 The Historic New Orleans St. Francisville Food & Wine Collection 2, 56 Festival 9 Town of St. Francisville 36 New Roads, LA West Feliciana Animal Humane City of New Roads 54 Society 14 Pointe Coupee Historical Society 59 Tupelo, MS Tupelo Convention & Visitors Oberlin, LA Bureau 43 Allen Parish Tourist Commission 41 Vicksburg, MS Visit Vicksburg 17 Opelousas, LA St. Landry Parish Tourist Zachary, LA Commission 53 Signature Southern Accents 37

A NEW LIVE REGIONAL DAILY RADIO PROGRAM ABOUT SOUTH LOUISIANA Monday through Friday live at noon and rebroadcast at 7:30 p.m.

In Baton Rouge on WRKF 89.3 FM In New Orleans on WWNO 89.9 FM and on wrkf.org and wwno.org

Monday, July 4 at 7PM & 8:30PM

CLASSIC FRENCH FILMS

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Call 225-931-2011 to make your appointment today!

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Country Roads Magazine "The Cuisine Issue" July 2022

Articles inside

The Doyenne of Louisiana Sculpture

Encounters in the Heartland

Louis Armstrong's 4th of July Birthday

A Champion on Muddy Waters

Notes on the Weather

The Village of Versailles

Chef Cory Bahr

Supper, Reimagined

Hog's Head Cheese

Preservation Bar & Grill

Chef Trent Bonnette

Food, Booze & Hiccups

Fred's Lounge in Mamou

Primal Nights

The St. Francisville Food & Wine Festival Returns

The Sweet Spot Cocktail Trail

Reflections: You say Tomayto . . .

On the Cover: Locally Raised Chefs