Country Roads Magazine "The Embrace Your Place Issue" May 2022 by Country Roads magazine

Adventure Awaits, Step Into Cajun Country, Don't Just Visit, Experience Allen Parish r e t n e C l a r u t l Cu

Canoeing and Tubing on th e Ouiska Chitt o & y Coushatta s h Myt s Bywa d Casino Resort n e Leg Cycling d o o w r e h Leat eum Mus No Man's Land

Convenience Store du Jour Trail

For more information, contact Allen Parish Tourism Commission at www.allenparish.com or 888-639-4868 Like us on 2

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

// M A Y 2 2

Contents

MAY 2022

Events

11 6 8

Features

MOTHER, MAY I Concerts every weekend, festivals erupting in small towns and large, plus a wellness retreat or three

REFLECTIONS Where to draw the line by James Fox-Smith

NEWS & NOTEWORTHIES

VO LU M E 3 9 // I SS U E 5

34 38 42

Publisher

VIRTUES & VINES Mindful guzzling at Wild Bush Farm & Vineyard by Lucie Monk Carter

James Fox-Smith

Associate Publisher

Ashley Fox-Smith

TENNESSEE IN NEW ORLEANS A complicated love story

Managing Editor

Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

by Alexandra Kennon

Arts & Entertainment Editor

NIGHTSHADE FLOWERS An urban farm on Rabbit Street by Chris Turner-Neal

Alexandra Kennon

Creative Director

Kourtney Zimmerman

Contributors:

Glade Bilby, Taylor Cooley, Samantha Eroche, Lucie Monk Carter, Brei Olivier, Catherine Schoeffler Comeaux, Chris Turner-Neal

On the Cover

GROWN IN LOUISIANA Cover image by Brei Olivier

The thing about using locally-sourced flowers, points out Chris TurnerNeal in his feature on New Orleans’ Nightshade Flower Farm page 42, is that you can get the more delicate stuff. The finnicky, particular blooms that don’t tolerate travel well: dahlias, for instance, and snapdragons. You also get the weird ones, the strange eruptions of nature that your neighborhood flower farmer, such as Becca Greaney, is especially fascinated by: false Queen Anne’s lace, starflower, Salpiglossis cafe au lait. The point is: you don’t have to look very far to be enchanted. In fact, from our very particular “here,” so many special things do grow. This year, our “Embrace Your Place” issue taps into the riches emitted from and inspired by this Gulf South region and the intriguing folks who call it home. The flowers are grown on Rabbit Street, just down the road from where Tennessee Williams wrote his grand opus A Streetcar Named Desire (page 38). In Baton Rouge and Natchez, local culinary experts become educators, sharing the traditions of this region’s tastes by way of storytelling, and encouraging their students to take those stories home (50 & 52). On the Northshore, a viticulturalist couple is dreaming of distinctly-Louisianan wines. And against the flow of the Mississippi River—Como Plantation is hosting retreats, escapes from the business of daily life; experiences designed to reflect on one’s inner self in this world, in this place.

Cuisine

SOUL FUSION Chef Jarita FrazierKing reconnects Natchez cuisine to its roots. by Lauren Heffker

REVISITING RED STICK SPICE Anne Milneck’s essential spice cabinet expands to include a teaching kitchen and a tea shop. by Lucie Monk Carter

Culture

LIGHT BULB IDEAS Green Light New Orleans fosters sustainable solutions in local communities.

58 62

Special 45Advertising 70 Section:

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

QUIET AT COMO The historic Feliciana estate enters a new era of spiritual contemplation.

by Catherine Schoeffler Comeaux

by Samantha Eroche

Go Local

Escapes

A BIT OF ABITA A boutique Northshore experience by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

PERSPECTIVES L. Kasimu Harris’s “Vanishing Black Bars” by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

Cover Artist

Brei Olivier

Advertising

SALES@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

Sales Team

Heather Gammill & Heather Gibbons

Custom Content Coordinator

Lauren Heffker

Advertising Coordinator

Laci Felker

President

Dorcas Woods Brown

Country Roads Magazine 758 Saint Charles Street Baton Rouge, LA 70802 Phone (225) 343-3714 Fax (815) 550-2272 EDITORIAL@COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM WWW.COUNTRYROADSMAG.COM

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Copyrighted. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be reproduced without permission of the publisher. The opinions expressed in Country Roads magazine are those of the authors or columnists and do not necessarily reflect the views of the publisher, nor do they constitute an endorsement of products or services herein. Country Roads magazine retains the right to refuse any advertisement. Country Roads cannot be responsible for delays in subscription deliveries due to U.S. Post Office handling of third-class mail.

// M A Y 2 2

Reflections FROM THE PUBLISHER

y wife and I have been arguing about mowing. I would like to mow hmore, on the logic that the small patch of groomed land that separates our house from the surrounding forest seems in danger of being swallowed by it. Especially now, when the weather gets warm, and things grow so fast that it’s like living in Where the Wild Things Are. Seriously, we can almost watch the several-acre stand of giant bamboo (that dates from some ancestor’s desire for a supply of cane poles) advance across the back lawn. My wife, on the other hand, would like to mow less, her elemental passion for gardening having evolved to embrace replacing swathes of perfectly mowable lawn with an expanding labyrinth of plantings, and letting Mother Nature have her way with much of the rest. This last development is the result of her having fallen under the spell of a horticultural influencer named Edwina von Gal. Despite having the name of a Bond villain, Ms. Von Gal is actually a quite famous landscape architect from East Hampton, NY, who espouses a garden-

ing philosophy based around sustainability and natural landscapes, and who recently gave a talk at New Orleans’ Longue Vue House and Gardens that my wife attended with shining eyes. In recent years Ms. Von Gal has championed an initiative she calls “Two Thirds for the Birds,” which maintains that out of every three plants a gardener plants, two should be native species. The logic of this is unassailable: birds’ numbers are dwindling; they need native plants to survive. We as stewards of landscape should support their wellbeing by planting things that sustain them. What sort of bird-loathing obsessive, my wife implies, wouldn’t support such an earthy, wholesome line of thinking? To this I have several responses. The first is to point out that we live in a jungle, against which we have invested in an armored division of lawn care equipment to defend our house. And as for the birds: judging by the number of them nesting on the porches, in the carport, barn, and chimney, it appears they have the upper hand (or claw). Currently I would say we’re at about nineteen-twentieths for the birds and losing ground all the time. The second is to protest the accusation that I have something against birds. Actually I love them, which I would think might be evident by the amount of time and energy I’ve lavished on the fifteen

spoiled chickens currently languishing in extreme comfort, who would be instantly eaten were they to set one feathered foot beyond the confines of their custom-built coop and the groomed portions of the backyard. And the third is to acknowledge that my quest to impose any semblance of order upon my surroundings is a losing battle in any case. As I write this I’m gazing glumly at an enormous white oak that came crashing down during a freak storm on Sunday night, and is now lying across about half the yard daring me to do something about it. That won’t be easy. Eighty feet tall (or long), this tree has a trunk that must be the width of an Amtrak train. Cutting it up and hauling it away is going to provide more than enough to keep my mind off of mowing through the summer, at least.

So, yes. On the remote patch of land over which my wife and I wield any influence, the birds would appear to be winning. There will be little mowing to interfere with my wife’s plans to plant things everywhere, at least until I can clear enough of that white oak to get to the barn where the mower lives. The fallen tree in the yard is a headache—a challenge to my instinctive desire to exert control on my surroundings. But maybe there’s a broader lesson here: That perfection is overrated: that the quest to impose it on the natural landscape is a fool’s errand. And even if we do, briefly, seem to attain control, nature always wrests it back soon enough. Instead, perhaps perfection is not trying quite so hard to impose order on everything, and accepting that living in the world inevitably comes with its fair share of chaos. That sounds a lot like embracing one’s place, which is the theme of this issue after all. So, this summer, while my wife is out there happily digging up the lawn, maybe I’ll forgo the mower, let the wild things do their thing, and reach for the wood splitter instead. I imagine that the birds, not to mention Ms. Von Gal, would approve. —James Fox-Smith, publisher james@countryroadsmag.com

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M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

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A special advertising feature from Pennington Biomedical Research Center

All In a Day’s Work

LSU’s Pennington Biomedical is a world-renowned research center that puts science to work for a healthier Louisiana. Their innovative discoveries have changed the way America eats, exercises, and ages and throughout the years, they have advanced treatments for diseases from diabetes to obesity. Best of all: it’s right here in Baton Rouge.

ne of the Capital Region’s greatest assets also happens to be a hidden gem to many who live here. Pennington Biomedical Research Center (PBRC) isn’t just another office building on Perkins Road—it’s a world-renowned leader at the forefront of medical discoveries related to obesity, diabetes, cardiovascular disease, cancer and dementia—and it’s in our backyard. From its 222-acre campus in the heart of Baton Rouge, Pennington Biomedical’s expert scientists conduct basic, clinical, and population science research dedicated to improving human health throughout the lifespan, with the ultimate goal of solving the obesity epidemic by 2040. Pennington Biomedical scientists rank among the most cited researchers in the world, and their work builds strategies to enable Louisiana residents to live longer, healthier lives. “Pennington Biomedical is not only the world’s largest research center in nutrition and obesity, it is also recognized internationally as a center of excellence for the translation of basic science to population

John Kirwan, PhD, Executive Director

Eric Ravussin, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Clinical Science

Rood, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Cores and Resources.

implementation,” says Eric Ravussin, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Clinical Science. Through these centers, Pennington Biomedical conducts leading-edge research trials that aim to discover new ways to prevent, detect, or treat disease, deepening our understanding of the ways that our environment, genes, diet, and lifestyle impact human health. From how varying diets and physical fitness regimens affect people of different backgrounds, to the long-term health effects of COVID-19, to learning how age-related dementia and Alzheimer’s occur, Pennington Biomedical’s network of researchers and public health advocates provide hope for a healthier tomorrow to those suffering from or at risk of disease. “Our cutting-edge research has helped thousands of people live longer, healthier lives,” says Jennifer

Jennifer Rood, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Cores & Resources

Peter Katzmarzyk, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Population & Public Health Sciences

In addition to various outreach programs, Pennington Biomedical offers a robust online database of community health resources. You can find hundreds of free tools and teaching resources, from recipes developed in Pennington Biomedical’s metabolic kitchen, to a weight loss predictor calculator, to an extensive catalog of videos, virtual courses, and presentations designed for instruction. The center aims to raise awareness and shift public perception of obesity as a disease—dispelling myths and arming individuals and communities with evidence-based research and the resources necessary to lead healthy lives. “Pennington is a special place,” says Peter Katzmarzyk, PhD, Associate Executive Director for Population and Public Health Sciences. “A place where scientists come together to solve the most pressing health problems facing Louisiana and its citizens.”

By the numbers: 6 centers 10 areas of research 13 specialized core service facilities 44 laboratories 688,000 square feet of state-of-the art laboratories, clinics, conference space, and offices

To learn more, go to pbrc.edu.

// M A Y 2 2

Noteworthy

M A Y 2 02 2

N E W S , T I M E LY T I D B I T S , A N D O T H E R

Tout Ensemble

LO O K C LO S E R

CURIOSITIES

Francisco, came across the property in September 2021, as part AFTER TWO YEARS ON THE MARKET, MAISON CHENAL FINDS THE PERFECT BUYERS of their search to expand their Maison Chenal, image courtesy of Peter Patout. horizons eastward. In addition to their passion for American history, Nori said that they were particularly interested in Southern culture. When Sam came across the listing for Maison Chenal prepared by local historic properties agent Peter Patout, with its extensive booklets of information detailing the estate’s history and corresponding collections, the infatuation was immediate. “He wanted to buy this huge monitor to look through all of the booklets together,” laughed Nori. “Every day, I’d n an interview writer Ruth Laney preserved in gardens, historic buildings, pass him and he’d be looking at it. That’s conducted in 2019, Pat Holden de- and over 1,400 items of antique furniture where it started, and things kind of snowballed from there.” scribed her and her husband Jack’s and decorative arts. On March 21, 2022, the $2.5 million work as antiquarians: “It’s not that In 2019, after over thirty years of callsale was made official, and the future of we want to go back to the past, but that ing the remarkable property home, the Maison Chenal, tout ensemble, secured. we need the physical things, the objects, Holdens, in their eighties, placed the “We really want to be stewards of this to remind us that we’re part of a continu- entire estate on the market—hoping land, of this property,” said Nori. “And um. Everything [our predecessors] did af- to usher their corner of the past into a be purposeful in doing what the Holdens fects us, just as what we do will affect the new era, via the perfect buyer: someone who would keep the entire collection dream of doing, which is to keep everyfuture.” and properties together as one, “tout en- thing together.” The couple’s life’s work is concentrat- semble”. She shared that plans are already uned in a remarkable seventy-five-acre esAlmost three years later, they found derway to either form a new nonprofit tate in Jarreau, Louisiana called Maison Sam and Nori Lee. or partner with an existing one, to preChenal—a carefully-curated world of The Lees, who own an electrical conserve the property as it is and to create a colonial Creole Louisiana painstakingly tracting and agricultural business in San research center of the space for students

Local Supply

and preservationists interested in Louisiana colonial history and ways of life. For now, though, she and Sam are focusing on learning as much as they can from Jack and Pat Holden. “Just today,” she said, “we were walking around the beautiful gardens, and Jack was telling me about some of the plants and animals on the property. It’s wonderful to learn from him. They’re pretty much treasures. I mean, along with the purchase of this— this is a treasure—but to have a relationship with the Holdens and access to all that knowledge, I mean it is just wonderful.” Following the sale, Pat Holden shared that finally letting go of Maison Chenal has been bittersweet. “To have to part with it is painful, because it was the passion of our lives for the last fifty years,” she said. “But we’re absolutely delighted that it’s in the hands of the Lees now. They’re delightful people and have a great vision. It’s been a challenging and rewarding past, connected now to a promising and bright future. You can’t want any more than that.” Read more on the story of Maison Chenal at Realtor Peter Patout’s blog, where he has documented the property’s history and journey to its recent purchase, at peterpatout.com/maisonchenal. —Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

MEREDITH WAGUESPACK AND SARAH GUIDRY’S NEWEST VENTURE SUPPORTS ALL THINGS LOCALLY-MADE

estled beside its sister-store Sweet Baton Rouge in the Electric Depot compound on Government Street, Local Supply wraps you up the moment you walk through the door, the handmade stationery, canvases, books, postcards, and accessories all twinkling under the lights. Every display is labeled with a card crediting its products’ local maker, with an icon of Louisiana’s boot identifying it as one of ours. Like Meredith Waguespack and Sarah Guidry’s Sweet Baton Rouge t-shirt showroom, Local Supply celebrates all things Louisiana. The new retail space stemmed from the business partners’ Local Pop Up shop, which they have held annually at Perkins Rowe since 2017— bringing local artists and creators together into a single space. 8

“Fast forward to last year. That’s whenever we were like, alright, we don’t have enough space to do our holiday pop-ups here,” said Guidry. “And then, we looked through that little window…and were like ‘Okay, this space is open,’ which really got my wheels turning about the possibilities.” Waguespack noted the satisfaction of watching the businesses she’s partnered with through Local Pop Up continue to grow and succeed. “To me, that adds a lot of value when you can see how they started small, and they’re slowly building their brands up and creating the following of people that want to come in and get that particular product from that person,” she said. Since opening in January, Local Supply now features over fifty local artists, who will be rotated quarterly.

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Some artists have also been featured in spotlight their businesses inside Local Waguespack and Guidry’s Lagniappe Supply.” Local Supply is open Tuesday Box, another venture that supports local makers and artisans via a monthly sub- through Saturday, 10 am–6 pm, and scription box service (learn more about it Waguespack and Guidry, with their inin our “Go Local” special advertising sec- fectious smiles and passion for all things tion on page 46). “Everything that we try local, can be found walking between to do is trying to make a positive impact,” Local Supply and Sweet Baton Rouge. —Laci Felker sweetbatonrouge.com. Guidry said. Waguespack agreed: “And building the friendships, just through working with so many individuals and just being able to create that community with them.” The entrepreneurs’ plans for Local Supply and Sweet Baton Rouge include “continuing to work in our relationships with all of our local members and makers—[and continuing] to Meredith Waguespack and Sarah Guidry at Local Supply. Photo by Kimberly Meadowlark, courtesy of Local Supply.

Chefs on Boats

CHEF’S BRIGADE’S NEW PROGRAM BRINGS LOUISIANA RESTAURANT PROFESSIONALS ONTO THE WATER

roy Gilbert, the maritime journalist and cookbook author who founded Chef’s Brigade, was unsure of what direction the nonprofit should take following its year of providing free meals during the COVID pandemic. By June of 2021, the nonprofit coalition of New Orleans restaurants and chefs had given out 3.7 million meals, and Chef’s Brigade had built up a massive network of chefs and restaurants as partners. “And so I was sitting there like, ‘Well, what is our pivot? Moving past coronavirus, where does Chef’s Brigade go next?’” The idea of taking chefs out to the coast to get on a boat and see sediment diversions first-hand arose over a dinner shared by Gilbert, CRCL Executive Director Kimberly Reyher, and Pontchartrain Conservancy Executive Director Kristi Trail. “And we're just kicking around ideas, for more ways that we can integrate the restaurants into the problems that are going on on the coast and also with the perils facing the seafood industry here in Louisiana,” Gilbert recalled. “Because one of the things I did notice over the course of that year working with so many restaurants is the enormous disconnect between the restaurant industry and the men and women in the seafood industry.” The next day, as Gilbert was walking to get coffee, he had the thought, “You know what, we shouldn't just take a couple of chefs. We need to take all of them.” And thus, Chefs on Boats was born. So far, Chef’s Brigade’s Chefs on Boats program has run thirteen trips, taking sixty-five chefs, oyster shuckers, line cooks, and restaurateurs out to Empire, Louisiana to see oyster leases and the environmental factors impacting them with their own eyes. “The oyster men, they’re all characters, as you might suspect,” Gilbert chuckled. “It’s pretty funny. They're like, ‘Wait, what do you want to do? You have a bunch of New Orleans chefs that want to come on board my boat? And listen to me tell my crazy stories? Come on!’ They love it.” The experiences have been a lot of fun, according to Gilbert—but incredibly rewarding and beneficial, as well. “The conversations are really fascinating. Because for most of these restaurants, this is a brand new experience for them. Most people don't have access to boats. And they certainly haven't been on an oyster boat or shrimper’s boat. And having the chance to talk about the oyster indus-

try and the shrimp industry. You know, what are the perils? What is the folklore? What is the whole picture?” Not only were the chefs eager to learn from the oystermen and shrimpers, but: “We started noticing that the oystermen were just as curious talking to the chefs as the chefs were [of] them, because there's the huge disconnect.” Jeffrey Spoo, an oyster shucker at Sidecar Patio & Oyster Bar who recently went out on a Chefs on Boats excursion in Empire, found the experience critical and informative—even more than he initially thought it would be. “Going out on the boat with Chef’s Brigade and Capt'n Richie Blink was way more important than I was expecting,” Spoo said. “I have now experienced the whole journey of an oyster from being dredged out of the water, to returning its shell back into the same water through CRCL's shell recycling program. I was shown first hand the hurdles these farmers have to overcome due to the climate and how the hurdles are only getting bigger and more frequent.” In addition to better informing restaurant professionals about coastal issues, Gilbert points out that being better connected to where seafood comes from can be beneficial to restaurants from an economic and marketing perspective, too. “It boggles my mind why Louisiana oysters are marketed like, ‘These are from area seven,’ or ‘from area nine.’ I mean, doesn't that sound just so delicious?” Gilbert posed with a wry laugh. “If you went into a restaurant, and on the menu they had a dozen oysters raw from area seven, or for an extra ten bucks, you can have a dozen oysters from the so-and-so family, who have been on this lease in Southeast Louisiana, farming out of Buras since 1842. They’ve got this built-in branding.” “Getting to know the farmers, production, and the environmental challenges they face will absolutely add some prestige to selling an oyster,” emphasized Spoo. “What comes from all this is gratitude and it will go a long way in keeping this oyster industry rolling into the future.” —Alexandra Kennon

Photo by Jeffrey Spoo. // M A Y 2 2

A Special Advertising Feature from Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center

Fight Together, Win Together Nineteen months after being diagnosed with terminal brain cancer, Donaldsonville pastor Brad Collins is living life to the fullest. The single greatest factor that made a difference in his recovery? Having access to the best treatment close to home.

ll along, Donaldsonville resident Brad Collins knew there was a greater plan at work. In August of 2020, the local pastor and family patriarch saw his primary care physician for frequent migraines he’d been having, and was sent to his local hospital for a CT scan. They found a mass in his right temporal lobe, and Collins was diagnosed with glioblastoma-–terminal brain cancer. Just a few days after his prognosis, Collins underwent brain surgery to remove the tumor. Then, his neurological care team referred him to Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center in Gonzales for subsequent radiation treatment. Collins and his wife, Michelle, live on the Ascension/Assumption parish line, so if it weren’t for the Gonzales campus, the family would have had to travel over an hour for treatment, both ways. And when Brad had to undergo radiation therapy five days a week for six weeks, that proximity made a huge difference.

“I cannot overstate how convenient it was to get in the car and be just 25 to 30 minutes away from the best care, a comforting word, and hearts that want to help,” Collins says. “I mean, any issue that would come up, Mary Bird Perkins would bend over backwards.” Collins is the pastor of Community Worship Center in Belle Rose, and credits his steadfast faith with seeing him through the most difficult challenge of his life with grace. The Collins family received an outpouring of support, and not just from their church; the entire community showed up for them. When Michelle had to work and couldn’t take Brad to treatment, they depended on the help of nearby family and friends; local prayer circles and neighboring ministries raised money to help with Brad’s medical costs. “The worst thing that could ever be told to a person has become a sweet thing in our lives because it has rallied the community and brought us closer together,” Collins says. “There’s not a place that I go in town or around the parish where people aren’t supportive and praying for my family. It’s truly been a blessing in disguise.” Today, Collins is out of treatment, though he still visits the Gonzales cancer center for regular follow-up appointments. At his last checkup, he received good news—no new cancer growth, and even more than that, signs of healthy tissue regeneration. Collins is back in the driver’s seat and looking forward to a family vacation he and Michelle are planning, along with spending time with his newest grandchild, Bradley. Collins is able to access personalized cancer care in part thanks to the efforts of the Gonzales Area Foundation (GAF), a local nonprofit founded by community members with a desire to assist Mary Bird Perkins in making cancer prevention and treatment in Ascension Parish sustainable for generations to come. The group raises funds to ease the financial burden of treatment for patients, as well as early detection programs and transportation assistance for patients traveling to and from treatment. DeEtte DeArmond, a founding member of GAF, says that ensuring patients have access to treatment locally makes a huge difference in lessening the burden of cancer in their daily lives. “The reason why this cause is so dear to our hearts is because it’s in our community. Patients like Brad are going through something no one should have to endure, and anything we can do to help shoulder that burden is very important to us.” DeArmond says. “This is our community, and we don’t want anyone to have to travel to New Orleans or Baton Rouge to receive treatment. They can get it right here in Ascension Parish.”

Photo by Kimberly Meadowlark

Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Center has locations throughout southeast Louisiana and southwest Mississippi. For more information, please visit Marybird.org.

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

Events

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This month, join the Cajun Prairie Habitat Restoration Society in taking a closer look at the endangered ecosystems of the St. Landry Parish prairielands. Photo by Dwight Jodon, courtesy of the St. Landry Parish Tourist Comission. See listing on page 22.

UNTIL MAY

31st

ART MARKETS SPRING IN THE SOUTH Denham Springs, Louisiana

The Arts Council of Livingston Parish is celebrating the blooming beauty of spring with an art exhibition and Spring Marketplace. A reception will be held on May 21 from 10 am–1 pm. artslivingston.org. k

UNTIL JUN

26th

PHOTO EXHIBITIONS ALL MUSIC DOWN HERE New Orleans, Louisiana

In a city so defined by its live music scene, New Orleans is joyously celebrating its return—as is the New Orleans Photo Alliance's spring juried exhibition. Photographs honoring the Crescent City's diverse, world-class music scene are on display at the NOPA Gallery at 7800

Oak Street. This year's juror is Timothy Duffy, photographer and founder of the Music Maker Relief Foundation. Opening reception from 5 pm–8 pm. neworleansphotoalliance.org. k

"Poker Night,"and Vivien Leigh's Oscar statue she received for her performance as Blanche Dubois in the 1951 film. Free. Advance reservations are suggested at at my.hnoc.org.

UNTIL JUL

Read more about Williams' life in New Orleans and additional HNOC programming in Alexandra Kennon's story on page 38. k

3rd

THEATRE HISTORY BACKSTAGE AT "A STREETCAR NAMED DESIRE" New Orleans, Louisiana

To celebrate the seventy-fifth anniversary of the premiere of Tennessee Williams' seminal classic A Streetcar Named Desire, The Historic New Orleans Collection is hosting an exhibition to document the play and subsequent film, as well as Williams' life and work in New Orleans. On display will be rarely-displayed items from the HNOC's Williams holdings, plus loans from other institutions including Director Elia Kazan's stage notes, Thomas Hart Benton's painting

UNTIL JUL

30th

PHOTO EXHIBITIONS L. KASIMU HARRIS: VANISHING BLACK BARS & LOUNGES

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The Black-owned bars and lounges along St. Bernard Avenue in the Seventh Ward of New Orleans were mainstays of the community for generations. They provided refuges and neighborhood meeting places during periods of Jim Crow laws and segregation, and fostered development of community and cultural // M A Y 2 2

Events

music, and a home tour. 10:30 am–2 pm. Tickets available at bontempstix.com. pointecoupeehistoricalsociety.com. k

Beginning May 1st - May 3rd

1st - MAY 28th

expression. Few of those former lounges remain and many struggle to stay open today. In an attempt to immortalize these institutions and ask “What happens to the culture when it is displaced?" photographer L. Kasimu Harris has has captured their essence in the photographic exhibition Vanishing Black Bars & Lounges, currently on display at the Hilliard Art Museum. hilliardmuseum.org.

Awards, and enjoy discovering local art from Louisiana craftsmen and women— with everything from paintings, drawings, and photography to ceramics, fine jewelry, and handmade clothing. Live music and guest speakers will also guide the day. Proceeds support art education for area school children, providing hands-on art activities and children's entertainment. farhorizonsart.com. k

MAY

Read more about Harris's work and the exhibition in Jordan LaHaye Fontenot's Perspectives profile on page 70. k

MAY 1st

May 1: Steve Forbert CD release show. May 7: Bill Kirchen. May 12: Grant Peeples. May 13: Jeff Plankenhorn & Scrappy Jud. May 28: South Austin Moonlighters.

MAY

FOOD, HISTORY & JAZZ JAZZ BRUNCH AT WICKLIFFE Ventress, Louisiana

1st

ART FESTIVALS LOUISIANA SCENIC RIVERS ART FESTIVAL Folsom, Louisiana

The Folsom Scenic Rivers Art Festival returns for its second year to the Far Horizons Collective at Giddy Up Folsom. The subject matter of all of the artworks are the 3,000 miles of water protected by the Louisiana Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. Those who attend the opening reception from 4 pm–7 pm will be invited to vote anonymously for the People's Choice

Take in the history and beauty of Wickliffe, a rare example of a raised two-story French Creole style plantation house on the National Register of Historic Places, while enjoying dazzling jazz music and brunch on the lawn at the hight of spring. This fundraiser to support the Pointe Coupee Historical Society will feature music by the St. Cyr Jazz Band, which is fronted by Mark St. Cyr, a native of New Orleans, and includes several renowned New Orleans jazz musicians. Garden party attire is encouraged. $125, which includes brunch,

LIVE MUSIC RED DRAGON CONCERTS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Well-known and emerging songwriters take the stage here several times each month, and with the venue's non-profit status all money raised at the door goes directly to the artists. Join the eager audience for any of these concerts:

Shows usually start at 8 pm. (225) 9397783. Times and ticket prices on the Red Dragon Listening Room Facebook Page. Purchase tickets at paypal.me/reddragonlr; mention the artist in the message line. k

MAY

1st - MAY 28th

LIVE MUSIC ROCK'N BOWL DE LAFAYETTE CONCERTS Lafayette, Louisiana

It's always a lucky strike kind of night at Rock 'n' Bowl de Lafayette, with

Summer in Livingston Parish

Camp, boat, and swim through the beautiful outdoors KOA Kampground 7628 Vincent Road, Denham Springs, LA 1-800-562-5673 Tickfaw River Village Campground 29388 Old Hwy 22 Springfield LA, 70462 985-974-0844 Lakeside RV Park 28370 Frost Road, Livingston, LA 225-686-7676 Lagniappe RV Campground 30141 La 22 Springfield LA, 70462 225-414-0584 Tickfaw State Park 27225 Patterson Road, Springfield, LA 1-888-981-2020

www.livingstontourism.com visitlivingstonparish 12

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

plenty of fantastic live music acts sure to up your game. Find the upcoming schedule here: May 1: Geno Delafose & French Rockin' Boogie May 6: Parish County Line May 7: Louisiana LeRoux May 12: MJ Dardar May 13: Sarah Russo Band May 14: Nik-L Beer Band May 15: Chubby Carrier & Bayou Swamp Band May 19: Ryan Foret & Foret Tradition May 20: Clay Cormier & The Highway Boys, plus Johnny Cochran May 21: Krossfyre May 26: Small Crowd May 27: Todd O'Neill & Cat Daddy May 28: Ray Boudreaux Times and ticket prices can be found at rocknbowl.com/lafayette.k

MAY

1st - MAY 29th

LIVE MUSIC TIPITINA'S CONCERTS New Orleans, Louisiana

The famous Tchoupitoulas venue is open and swingin', bringing a wide variety of New Orleans' favorite musical acts to Professor Longhair's legendary stage. Here are the concerts to look forward to at Tipitina's this month:

May 1: North Mississippi Allstars. May 3: Dragon Smoke Featuring Ivan Neville, Robert Mercurio, Eric Lindell & Stanton Moore. May 4: The Daze Between Band Featuring Eric Krasno, Adam Deitch, Ivan Neville, George Porter, Jr., Erica Falls, Ryan Zoidis, Eric "Benny" Bloom, & Jennifer Hartswick + Butcher Brown. May 5: Tank + The Bangas. May 6: The Word featuring John Medeski, Robert Randolph, Luther & Cody Dickinson, and Rayfield "RayRay" Holloman. May 6: Andy Frasco & The U.N. May 7: The M&M's Featuring John Medeski, Papa Mali, Stanton Moore & Robert Mercurio. May 7: Galactic Featuring Anjelika "Jelly" Joseph. May 8: Doom Flamingo. May 8: Dumpstaphunk. Doors. May 9: "Give The Drummer Some": A Benefit for "Mean" Willie Green Feat. New Orleans Suspects and New Orleans Klezmer Allstars Plus A Special Set With A Rotating Cast of NOLA Drummers. May 20: Soul Sister Presents: Steppin' Out Another Right On Party Situation With DJ Soul Sister Plus Host MC Charlie V. 10 pm. May 21: The Wailers. May 28: Rebirth Brass Band. May 29: Rebirth Brass Band. tipitinas.com. k

MAY

1st - MAY 29th

LIVE MUSIC CONCERTS AT THE HIDEAWAY ON LEE Lafayette, Louisiana

One of the best spots in Downtown Lafayette to see local live music, the Hideaway on Lee keeps its schedule full of both established and emerging artists. Wednesday and Thursday nights are free; all other nights are $10 at the door, with every dollar going back to the band. See their upcoming shows, here: May 1: Jesse Lege & Revelers May 5: The Redwine Trio May 6: Kyle Huval & the Dixie Club Ramblers May 7: BeauSoleil avec Michael Doucet May 13: Julian Primeaux May 14: Cajun Strong with Jason Babineaux May 15: The Has Beens May 20: The Magnalites May 21: Gerald Gruenig & Gentilly Zydeco May 27: Bonsoir, Catin May 28: Amis Du Teche May 29: Riley Family Band Shows start at 8 pm. Visit the Hideaway on Lee's Facebook page for the most updated schedule and special events. k

MAY 1st - MAY 31st

PHOTO EXHIBITIONS PEOPLE, PORCHES, AND PLACES: PHOTOGRAPHIC MEMORIES OF POINTE COUPÉE PARISH New Roads, Louisiana

Trace the vibrant history of Pointe Coupée Parish through photographs at this exhibition at the Poydras Center, curated by West Baton Rouge Museum founder Kathe Hambrick. The exhibit includes many photos from New Roads and Old Rivers by Richard Sexton, Randy Harelson, and Brian Costello. pointecoupeehistoricalsociety.com. k

MAY 1st - JUL 3rd

CARTOON EXHIBITS RUNNING FOR OFFICE: CANDIDATES, CAMPAIGNS, AND THE CARTOONS OF CLIFFORD BERRYMAN

Handelsman will present an opening talk. louisianaoldstatecapitol.org. k

MAY 2nd

CONCERTS FOR CAUSES SHORTY FEST 2022 New Orleans, Louisiana

The Trombone Shorty Foundation, the Tip-It foundation, and the Gia Maione Prima Foundation are coming together for another epically-groovy fundraising event at Tipitina's, featuring performances by Galactic with Anjelika "Jelly" Joseph, Dumpstaphunk, Dirty Dozen Brass Band, and students from the Trombone Shorty Academy. Doors 7 pm, show 8 pm. $100 general admission, $300 VIP. tromboneshortyfoundation.org. k

MAY 3rd - MAY 4th FESTIVALS DAZE BETWEEN FEST

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

New Orleans, Louisiana

Pulitzer Prize-winning editorial cartoonist for the Washington Post and Washington Evening Star during the first half of the twentieth century Clifford Berryman is known for his clever and insightful satirical cartoons. Now, they'll be on display at the Old State Capitol, emphasizing Berryman's work's significance in American political history. On May 26, The Advocate's own Pulitzer Prize-winning cartoonist Walt

Daze Between New Orleans keeps the jam going strong between Jazz Fest weekends at the Faubourg Brewery. Catch Snarky Puppy, Lettuce, The String Cheese Incident, and more funky acts. Daze Between benefits the Rex Foundation, which writes grants for small nonprofit organizations that provide great work in arts, sciences, education, environment, indigenous culture, and social justice.

Generations of care

We’re here for you and your family through the stages of life, with the strength of the cross, the protection of the shield. The Right Card. The Right Care.

01MK7677 02/22

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Events

Beginning May 3rd - May 5th Plus, naturally, there will be beer and traditional Louisiana cuisine. For more information and tickets, visit dazebetweennola.com. k

MAY 3 - MAY 7 rd

MUSICALS LSU THEATRE PRESENTS [TITLE OF SHOW] Baton Rouge, Louisiana

A hilariously-meta musical that documents its own inception and all of the ups and downs of the creative process. Simply-put, it's a musical about four friends writing a musical about four friends writing a musical, and anyone who has been involved in anything artistic will surely relate to its humorouslypoignant commentary. Performances at 7:30 pm daily with an additional 2 pm performance May 7. Free. lsu.edu/cmda/theatre. k

MAY

4th

MUSICALS WAITRESS

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Inspired by Adrienne Shelly's beloved film, Waitress tells the story of a waitress and expert pie maker dreaming of a way out of her small town and loveless marriage. A baking contest in a nearby county and the town's new doctor may offer her a chance at a fresh start, while her fellow waitresses offer their own recipes for happiness (although pie whenever you want it and a handsome doctor sound like perfectly fine ingredients to start with). Coming to the Raising Cane's River Center for one night only this summer. 7:30 pm. Tickets start at $55. raisingcanesrivercenter.com. k

MAY

4th - MAY 18th

OUTDOOR MUSIC THE MERCREDI SHOW Carencro, Louisiana

Wednesday nights in Carencro, the folks at Pelican Park set the stage for their bi-annual concert series, "The Mercredi Show," featuring favorite performing acts in a comfortable outdoor setting. See the Spring lineup, here: May 4: Chubby Carrier and the Bayou Swamp Band May 11: Jet Seven May 18: High Performance. No ice chests or pets; food and beverages will be available for purchase; bring lawn chairs and blankets. 6 pm–8 pm. Free. Details at The Mercredi Show Facebook Page. k 14

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

MAY

5th

CONCERTS COLIN HAY AT THE MANSHIP Baton Rouge, Louisiana

His glory days as frontman of iconic Australian eighties group Men At Work might be behind him, but singer/songwriter Colin Hay is still a spectacular guitarist and storyteller. His solo show is mesmerizing, as much for his spoken reminiscences about growing up in Australia and life on the road, as it is for the beautifully crafted songs he wrings from his acoustic guitar. For this special show at the Manship, he'll present his latest album, FIERCE MERCY. 7:30 pm. $53–68. manshiptheatre.org. k

MAY

5th

CONCERTS AMINA FIGAROVA SEXTET Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Azerbaijan-born, globe-trotting composer and pianist Amina Figarova is coming to the Cary Saurage Center as part of the Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge Jazz Listening Room Series. Lilting melodies, luminous harmonies, often understated yet always propulsive rhythms and star soloists come together with immaculate sophistication in each track. Her dedicated accompaniments include trumpeters Ernie Hammes and Alex Pope Norris, saxophonists Wayen Escoffery and Marc Mommaas, bassists Luques Curtis and Yasushi Nakamura, drummer Jason Brown, electric guitarist Anthony Wilson, and flutist Bart Platteau—Figarova's partner and husband of nearly twenty five years. 7:30 pm. $20 at bontempstix.com. k

MAY

5th - MAY 8th

ART EXHIBITIONS NOBODY WANTS TO BE HERE Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Artworks in a variety of mediums including 35 mm film, sound installation, and paintings by Broadmoor High Students will be on display at Yes We Cannibal, curated by Mx. Dorthy Ray. A reception will be held from 4 pm–6 pm on May 7. yeswecannibal.org. k

MAY

5th - MAY 26th

LIVE MUSIC LA DIVINA CONCERTS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Gelato, panini, and the frequent injections of heart and soul from Baton Rouge's singersongwriter enclave. Here's the live music that will accompany your dining at La Divina Italian Café: May 5: Dave Comeaux

A special advertising feature from All Wood Furniture

Doug Duhon and Rebecca Duhon (founder David Duhon was unavailable for photo, probably fixing a machine, going through wood, or designing future products). Rebecca hand-draws a stylized crawfish (right) on all handcrafted All Wood cypress tables.

Hand-Crafted Cypress Furniture

Through flood, fire, and hurricane, a custom furniture company’s commitment to its customers endures

hen you’re in the custom furniture-building business you expect your customers to have specific ideas about the kinds of furniture they’re looking for. But in South Louisiana, sometimes they show up with their own wood as well. “Around here we come with a dowry of wood,” said Doug Duhon, managing partner of the All Wood Furniture company, which his brother, Dave, founded in 1993. “One of our longtime customers lives in New York, but she grew up in Scott, Louisiana. Her family owns property in Scott, and on it was a cypress barn where she played as a child.” When that barn needed to be taken down, Duhon explained that the customer arranged for a load of the weathered old cypress to be delivered to All Wood Furniture’s Carencro workshop, and asked whether the Duhons could build her something to remember her Louisiana childhood by. “We started with a pair of end tables, which came out really nice,” Duhon said. “Since then we’ve made multiple pieces. Through the years, she’ll call and ask us to build something—a server, say. We’ll pull some of the wood, make the piece, and ship it to her in New York. Right now we’re building her a bed.” All Wood works closely with every client, handbuilding beautiful, durable furniture that is not only made to last a lifetime, but also serves as an evocative talisman of the Bayou State and the iconic cypress that flourishes here. In an era of cheap, foreignmade furnishings, disrupted supply chains, and e-commerce everything, is it any wonder that All Wood Furniture is busier now than at any time in its thirtyyear history? That History All Wood Furniture’s story begins, appropriately, in an old wooden building—a circa 1940 sweet potato

warehouse in Dave and Doug’s hometown of Carencro. Starting in 1993, Dave began building a custom furniture business piece by piece, discovering infinite ways of interpreting the many moods of cypress—Louisiana’s home-grown “wood eternal”—in hand-made tables, bookcases, sideboards, gun cabinets, and outdoor furnishings. In 2005 Doug came on board, contributing his training in the graphic arts to furniture design and company growth. But on Thanksgiving morning, 2013, the Duhons got the phone call every small business owner dreads. Their shop was on fire. By the time they arrived the building, their tools, and hundreds of pieces of cypress furniture were ablaze. The next morning they faced the prospect of starting back pretty much where Dave had been when he started out in 1993: with $500 and a table saw. Three years later fire struck again, claiming All Wood’s Finishing operation as the business was running flat out helping Louisianans replace furnishings lost to the 2016 floods. So, when a customer comes into the store looking to replace belongings lost through fire, flood, or hurricane, the Duhons know something of what they’re experiencing. “We still have people coming in to replace things they lost in the 2016 floods,” says Raymond Smith, store manager of All Wood’s Baton Rouge showroom. “Now, people who lost things in Hurricane Ida are starting to come in, too.” Smith says that when people who have lost belongings to a disaster come into the store, he can tell. “They’ve lost almost everything. They’ve had to rebuild their home. So we do everything we can to make the furniture part a pleasant experience for them.” Worth a thousand words Every custom piece begins with an extensive interview, during which

Raymond, James Duhon (Doug and Dave’s dad), or another All Wood specialist sit down to understand the customer’s vision for how (and where) the piece of furniture will fit into their lives. Then comes a detailed drawing, executed by Doug or Dave, that creates a road map that the workshop can follow to translate the client’s vision into reality. Once the customer is satisfied, the drawing is turned into All Wood’s Carencro-based team of craftsmen (and -women). Then the sawdust starts to fly. Cypress—“The Wood Eternal” The vast majority of pieces that All Wood Furniture builds are constructed out of new or recycled cypress wood, beloved for its strength, workability, rot resistance, and the personality reflected from its many knots and color variations—characteristics that become more pronounced as the wood ages. Of course, not every customer shows up with a stockpile of century-old wood, and each year the Duhons buy up to 200,000 board feet of new cypress sustainably harvested from Louisiana and Florida sources. Then they build pieces that show the wood’s character to best effect. “When you build a tabletop you don’t just throw eight boards together,” noted Doug. “Some wood is plainer, less textured, than other wood, so we go through the loads to select the boards that have the most character, and use those for tabletops and other very visible applications.” These days, about eighty percent of the cypress the company uses is new wood, although they still receive, and love to work with, reclaimed cypress salvaged from area barns and other structures. Old cypress adds inimitable character to a piece, but it’s getting harder to find. So All Wood’s craftsmen have become masters of economy, using every inch of gnarled, old wood to fashion facings and inserts that

add lustre to highly visible surfaces. Most prized is pecky cypress, which only occurs in trees infected with a fungus that causes pits and channels to develop. Increasingly rare, pecky cypress can run three times the price of new or old lumber, but if a customer wants a special piece, or brings in wood of their own, the Duhons love to work with it. The finishing touch Natural rot- and insect-resistance makes cypress a versatile wood for indoor and outdoor applications, and All Wood Furniture builds swings, gliders, benches, and rockers, finishing them with oil-based finishes to further protect against sun, rain, and moisture. The importance of using a quality finish cannot be overstated, notes Doug. On all their indoor furniture, All Wood uses special pre-catalyzed lacquer—it retains the luster of traditional lacquer but is more durable—which the finishing crew applies in multiple layers, then handsands to create a lasting finish resistant to staining and water intrusion. How do you know if a cypress table is an All Wood piece? Look for the crawfish. Every table is signed, numbered, and personalized with a stylized crawfish drawn freehand with a sharpie before the finish is applied by Doug’s daughter, Rebecca, who joined the family business as a craftsman in 2012. With the company experiencing unprecedented demand from customers looking to add the beauty and durability of handmade Louisiana furniture to their homes, Rebecca is wearing out a lot of sharpies this year.

All Wood Furniture locations 10269 Airline Highway, Baton Rouge • (225) 293-5118 2842 N.E. Evangeline Thruway, Lafayette • (337) 269-8800 1508 W. Pinhook Road, Lafayette • (337) 262-0059 AllWoodCompany.com

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Events

Cane's River Center. 7 pm. Tickets start at $35. raisingcanesrivercenter.com. k

Beginning May 6th MAY

6 pm–8 pm. Free. facebook.com/ ladivinabatonrouge. k

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

6th

FUN FUNDRAISERS 60TH ANNIVERSARY BENEFIT GALA CONCERT FOR THE PRESERVATION HALL FOUNDATION New Orleans, Louisiana

Originally formed to honor the African American families that have paved the way for Jazz and left their mark on the music, the Preservation Hall Foundation is hosting their sixtieth anniversary benefit gala concert at the Orpheum theatre with a lineup including Irma Thomas, Nathaniel Rateliff, Big Freedia, Cyril Neville, Ivan Neville (Dumpstaphunk), David Shaw (The Revivalists), Stanton Moore (Galactic), along with the Preservation Hall Jazz Band and the Preservation Hall Legacy Band, and even more surprises in store. $60-$160. 8 pm. preshallfoundation.org. k

FUN FUNDRAISERS SYMPHONY OF FLAVORS Join the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra and Martin Wine & Spirits for a special and tasty fundraiser. Enjoy hors d'oeuvres while learning from Winemaker at Wine Bridge Imports Carolina Bistue the ins-and-outs of wine tasting—featuring twenty wines. The evening will close with an intimate concert by Nicholas Ciraldo. 6:30 pm–8 pm at Martin Wine Cellar at Studio Park. $75; $100 VIP. brso.org. k

MAY

6th

SHOPPING SPREES SALE ON THE TRAIL

6th

May 12: Eric Schmitt May 19: Steve Judice May 26: Melissa Seidule

MAY

Natchitoches, Louisiana

Be prepared to “shop ‘til you drop” along 175 miles of the historic El Camino Real de los Tejas. Follow the trail through the Caddo region which stretches from LA Hwy 6 in Natchitoches to TX Hwy 21 into Nacogdoches, Texas, and discover new and used treasures sold by local businesses and individuals for purchase along the way. For more information, call the Nacogdoches Convention & Visitors Bureau at (936) 564-7351. k

MAY 6th - MAY 8th

6th

CONCERTS JIMMIE ALLEN AT THE RAISING CANE'S RIVER CENTER Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Recognized by grammy.com as one of "5 Black Artists Rewriting Country Music," Jimmie Allen has been a trailblazer in his genre, collecting accolades everywhere he goes—from an ACM Award to a Grammy nomination to countless chart-topping hits. See him perform favorites old and new in Baton Rouge this weekend at the Raising

FESTIVALS CRAWFISH FESTIVAL Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

Breaux Bridge’s annual crawfish festival celebrates two things near and dear to any who call the Bayou State home: crawfish and Louisiana music. Breaux Bridge was designated Crawfish Capital of the World in 1959 —by the Louisiana State Legislature, who would know— and has held the festival every year since 1960, except for in 2020 and 2021 due to COVID-19. Coming back with gusto

at this year's festival, crawfish will be served in nearly every way imaginable: boiled, fried, in étouffée, in boudin, in pie… if there’s a way you like to eat it, you’re sure to find it here. The competitive can enter the crawfish-eating competition; those more comfortable as spectators can take in the celebrity crawfish-eating contest, Cajun cooking demonstrations, and a crawfish race. There’s also a carnival midway full of games and activities, Cajun dance lessons, and a parade honoring this year’s Crawfish Royalty. Music fans will be thrilled by the steady supply of Cajun music, zydeco, and swamp pop provided by over thirty bands from the three stages. Favorite regional mainstay acts will be here, including Wayne Toups & Zydecajun, the Cajun Stompers, and Chubby Carrier & the Bayou Swamp Band. All at Parc Hardy. bbcrawfest.com. k

MAY 6th - MAY 8th OPEN ROAD HILL COUNTRY MOTORCYCLE RALLY Luckenbach, Texas

Luckenbach, Texas—the legendary rural stomping grounds for Willie Nelson, Waylon Jennings, and the Boys—will welcome those who prefer the rubber on the road and the wind in their faces this month. Three days of hearty food, live

Real Flavor. Real History. Real Adventure. Find excitement around every corner in Louisiana’s River Parishes! Make adventure your destination in the bayous and lakes of New Orleans Swamp Country on a guided kayak tour. Go further and find hiking on boardwalks raised over marshy swamplands or biking down tree-lined trails following along the mighty Mississippi River. Discover our culture in the uniquely flavorful aromas drifting from the Andouille Trail. The history of our region, real and unvarnished, can be felt in the landmark homes of New Orleans Plantation Country and the museums along the 1811 Slave Revolt Trail.

Start exploring today at LARiverParishes.com

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

opportunity for a new, more thrilling life... as a foreigner who doesn't speak English. The pretend language barrier makes Baker privy to secrets both dangerous and frivolous in this winner of two Obie Awards and two Outer Critics Circle Awards as Best New American Play and Best Off-Broadway Production. 8 pm Fridays and Saturdays. $32–$45. cuttingedgetheater.com. k

MAY

6th & MAY 14th

LIVE MUSIC MANSHIP THEATRE SUMMER STUDIO CONCERT SERIES Baton Rouge, Louisiana Galactic with Anjelika "Jelly" Joseph is just one of the many New Orleans-favorite acts gracing the stage at Tipitina's for Shorty Fest 2022. Image courtesy of Diament Public Relations. See listing on page 13.

music, vendors, and the beautiful vistas of the Texas Hill Country all around. hillcountryrun.com. k

MAY 6th & MAY 13th CONCERTS MANDEVILLE LIVE! Mandeville, Louisiana

Mandeville has planned another stimulating spring season of free concerts at the Mandeville Trailhead. Gates open at 6 pm for 6:30 pm performances. Coming up: May 6: Gregg Martinez

May 13: Amanda Shaw Food and beverages will be available for purchase, so please leave all outside food and drink at home. cityofmandeville.com. k

MAY 6th - MAY 14th

THEATRE THE FOREIGNER AT CUTTING EDGE THEATER Slidell, Louisiana

Proofreader by day, ho-hum husband by night, Charlie Baker takes a vacation at a Georgia fishing lodge and turns it into an

A new Summer Concert Series in the intimate Hartley/Vey Theatre. In May, you can catch the following acts at 7:30 pm: May 6: Black Joe Lewis. $25. May 14: Tommy Prine. $20. manshiptheatre.org . k

MAY

6th - MAY 15th

THEATRE THEATRE BATON ROUGE PRESENTS CRUMBS FROM THE TABLE OF JOY Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Theatre Baton Rouge presents the riveting Lynn Nottage play about a man who struggles to parent his daughters after the death of his wife, moving from Florida to

Brooklyn in the 1950s. 7:30 pm Thursday, Friday, and Saturday; 2 pm Sunday. $30. theatrebr.org. k

MAY 6th - MAY 22nd

THEATRE JPAS PRESENTS DEATH TRAP Westwego, Louisiana

In this riveting twist-and-turn-filled play by Ira Levin, Broadway thriller writer Sidney Bruhl is suffering from writers' block as he copes with a recent series of failures and lack of funds. When he receives a promising script from a student at a nearby university that he immediately recognizes has the potential to be a smash hit, he and his wife devise a plan to collaborate with the student for co-credit. Or do they come up with something more sinister entirely? Find out what happens in this production directed by Janet Shea at the Jefferson Performing Arts Society's Teatro Wego in Westwego. 7:30 pm Friday and Saturday, 2 pm Sunday. $35, $32 for seniors and military, $25 for students, $20 for kids twelve and under. jpas.org. k

MAY 6th - MAY 27th LIVE MUSIC SOUNDS OF THE CITY Morgan City, Louisiana

End your week with free live music at

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Events

MAY 6th - JUN 17th

LOCAL HISTORY THE PELICAN STATE GOES TO WAR: LOUISIANA IN WWII

Beginning May 6 - May 7 th

some of Morgan City's most picturesque locations throughout the month of May. See the schedule below: May 6: South 70, at the Highway 90 Bridge May 13: Jason LeBlanc & Southern Swing, at the Morgan City Waterfront May 20: Cliff Hillebran & the Anytime Band, at Lawrence Park May 27: Clay Alston & The Crappell Brothers, at the Morgan City Waterfront k

MAY 6th - MAY 31st

SILVER SCREEN FILMS & COMEDY AT THE MANSHIP THEATRE

Sharon Preston Folta—the product of a twodecade-long affair between the musician and vaudeville dancer Lucille Preston. After over fifty years, Folta now shares her story. 7:30 pm. $9.50. May 21: The Demonologist: This entirely Louisiana-shot film follows a detective investigating a string of murders. 7:30 pm. $9.50. May 31: Freakscene: The Story of Dinosaur Jr.: An homage to one of the most influential bands on the East Coast. 7:30 pm. $9.50. manshiptheatre.org . k

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Each month, the Manship Theatre offers a slate of films, from modern classics to new documentaries and locally-produced stories. Here's what's in store this month: May 6: SPOOF NIGHT! with Over the Top: Baton Rouge's The Family Dinner Improv Comedy Troupe present a hilariouslyinteractive screening of the film about an arm-wrestling truck driver who takes his twelve-year-old son on the road. 8 pm. $12. May 12: Little Satchmo: The remarkable story of Louis Armstrong's secret daughter,

MAY 6th - JUN 4th

ART EXHIBITIONS ELIZABETHAN GALLERY SPRING ART SHOW Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Hammond, Louisiana

In the traveling exhibit held currently at the Hammond Regional Arts Center, Louisiana's specific contributions to the American efforts of World War II will be highlighted through artifacts, photographs, and oral histories. Produced by the National WWII Museum, the exhibit will include the courageous stories of the 280,000 Louisiana residents who served on the battlefield, as well as poignant presentations of the contributions at the home front. While there, check out The Service: A Salute to the U.S. Military upstairs in the Mezzanine Gallery, which features artifacts and photographs on loan from local veterans and their families. An opening reception will be held from 5 pm–8 pm. hammondarts.org. k

MAY 6 - JUN 25 th

Elizabethan Gallery presents its annual spring art show, featuring works by a plethora of local artists at the Gallery's location in Baton Rouge's Mid City Arts and Design Cultural District. There will be a free wine and cheese reception for the opening from 5 pm–7 pm. elizabethangallery.com. k

ART EXHIBITIONS PICTURE A PORTRAIT: LAFAYETTE PARISH SCHOOL TALENTED ART SHOWCASE Lafayette, Louisiana

This exhibition at the Hilliard Art Museum celebrates the excellence of the faculty and students working within the Lafayette

Parish School System Talented Visual Arts Program. Each work is an exploration of the concept of portrait—and the various ways it can be interpreted, presented in a diverse set of styles and media. hilliardmuseum.org. k

MAY

7th

FUN RUNS BAYOU SIDE RUN New Iberia, Louisiana

Get your steps in while taking steps to raise mental health awareness at this 5K fundraiser. Set to take place in the historic downtown district of New Iberia, funds raised by the event will go to the Iberia Mental Health Initiative, a coalition of concerned citizens dedicated to identifying and addressing the mental health needs of the Iberia Parish community. 8 am. $25. heartforiberia.org. k

MAY 7th

LIVE MUSIC JAZZ & HERITAGE CONCERT SERIES: NICHOLAS PAYTON New Orleans, Louisiana

Grammy award-winning multi instrumentalist legend Nicholas Payton will perform a concert as part of the Jazz & Heritage Foundation's Concert Series at the Jazz & Heritage Center on Rampart Street. 8 pm. $15 at eventbrite.com. k

just across the Texas border

ROAD TRIP TO port arthur, TEXAS

Start your day with a morning stroll along the shores of McFaddin Beach or Sea Rim State Park. Then hike on shaded paths as you watch for colorful birds, experience the life and times of iconic rock ‘n roller, Janis Joplin, or soak up the sunshine as you sip on a locally made craft beer. Summer is a magical season, especially if you’re in Port Arthur. Home to a remarkable confluence of cultures and landscapes, there’s nowhere quite like this Texas Gulf Coast destination.

visitportarthurtx.com 18

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

// M A Y 2 2

Events

Beginning May 7th- May 8th

here's your chance to find a perfect Mother's Day gift at the Miles J. Brashier Greenhouse. 8 am–2 pm. (225) 638-5533. k

MAY 7th

SILVER SCREEN TAKE 8 FILM FESTIVAL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Delta Rouge, in conjunction with the LSU School of Theatre and the LSU Student Government, will be hosting this annual student Film Festival in the historic Shaver Theatre. The Take 8 Film Festival exists to promote and celebrate the films of all undergraduate/graduate students and alumni from LSU, Baton Rouge Community College, and Southern University. The festival judges will award best Directing, Cinematography, Actress/Actor, Editor, and Writer, as well as an overall Audience Award Winner and Best Alumni Film. 7 pm. lsu.edu/cmda/theatre. k

MAY

7th

GOOD EATS MANDEVILLE FOOD TRUCK FEST Mandeville, Louisiana

Mobile cuisine is the star of the show at Mandeville's Food Truck Festival this Saturday at the Mandeville Lions Club.

Come for the sweet eats and stay to support the Louisiana Handicapped Children's Camp and The Louisiana Lions Eye Foundation. 4 pm–8 pm. Free. Visit the Mandeville Lions Club Facebook page for details. k

MAY

7th

KNOWING NATURE MUSHROOM WALK Mandeville, Louisiana

Mushroom enthusiast John Mansfield will lead a Mushroom Walk at the Northlake Nature Center. The program will start in the pavilion with a slide show presentation, followed by a scavenger hunt for mushrooms and a return to the pavilion to identify the mushrooms found. If you have one you’d like to bring from home, please do so—you will learn which ones to leave behind! Space is limited; reservations required. $5. 10 am. northlakenature.org. k

MAY

7th

GREEN THUMBS MOTHER'S DAY PLANT SALE New Roads, Louisiana

If the mom in your life is also a plant mom,

B 

Natchez

MonmouthHistoricInn.com 601-442-5852

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

CONCERTS TOMMY MCLAIN RUNS DOWN EVERY (SWEET) DREAM Lafayette, Louisiana

As part of the Acadiana Center for the Arts Louisiana Crossroads Series, there will be a special concert at Vermilionville, honoring Swamp Pop icon Tommy McLain and his musical friends. Known for bringing the indigenous Louisiana sound global via the Billboard charts, appearances on Dick Clark's television shows, international tours with everyone from Otis Redding to the Yardbirds, and more—McLain is now releasing a brand new work. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm. $35. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

MAY

7th

GREEN THUMBS SUNSET HERB & GARDEN FESTIVAL Sunset, Louisiana

Spend a sunny afternoon with family perusing plants from hibiscus, to roses, to orchids, to grasses and beyond.

Master gardeners will be on site offering expertise and giving informative presentations, and arts & crafts vendors will be slinging handmade goods. 9 am–4 pm. $5, children under six, free. sunsetherbfestival.com. k

MAY

7th

KNOWING NATURE CAJUN PRAIRIE TOUR Eunice, Louisiana

Join the Cajun Prairie Habitat Restoration Society in taking a closer look at the endangered ecosystems of the St. Landry Parish prairielands. Experts will provide insights on different varieties of plants on restoration sites. For more information, contact matthew.s.herron@gmail.com. k

MAY

7th

MUSIC & ART JAMMIN' ON JULIA New Orleans, Louisiana

Julia Street will be shut down to traffic for live music and art openings galore, plus vendors and food trucks, along the gallery-packed stretch of the Warehouse District. See individual gallery sites for more information on specific art shows and bands. 6 pm–9 pm. artsdistrictneworleans.com. k

I L H E

MAY

7th

CONCERTS SOME ENCHANTED EVENING WITH THE LPO Slidell, Louisiana

Enjoy a picnic with family and friends, mix in some great music provided by the Northshore Community Orchestra, add a dash of memorable artwork, arrange a gorgeous sunset over Bayou Bonfouca as a backdrop on Heritage Park, and voilà! You have Some Enchanted Evening. 6 pm–8 pm. Free. (985) 646-4375. myslidell.com. k

MAY

7th

Landry Vineyards opens its gates to the picnickers and the lawn-chair lazies, all to enjoy special live music performances by local artists. This isn't the West Coast though—along with the obligatory cheese trays, four types of boudin and home-style jambalaya will also be on offer to round out the experience. Or bring your own favorite dishes along, just no alcoholic beverages. There will be plenty of wine to go around! See the schedule: May 7: Mike McKenzie Band May 21: Mason Granade Band $10; $5 ages thirteen to eighteen; free for children younger than twelve. Pay at the door. For more information, visit landryvineyards.com. k

CONCERTS THE LAST WALTZ AT SAENGER THEATRE New Orleans, Louisiana

For the forty-fifth anniversary of The Band's farewell concert, an all-star lineup will perform The Last Waltz, including Warren Haynes, Grace Potter, and Jamey Johnson, plus more special guests. 9 pm. Tickets start at $69.50. thelastwaltz.com. k

MAY

7th

& MAY

LIVE MUSIC LANDRY VINEYARDS CONCERTS

21st

West Monroe, Louisiana

On certain Saturdays of each month,

MAY

7th

- MAY

28th

GREEN THUMBS GARDEN MONTH AT RED STICK FARMERS MARKET Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Red Stick Farmers Market is embracing the bounty of spring this month, with different fun weekly themes featuring various speakers, kids' activities, and more. The schedule is as follows: May 7: Vegetable Gardening May 14: Herb Gardening May 21: Native Plants

May 28: Butterfly Week 8 am–noon between 5th and Main Streets. breada.org . k

MAY

7th - MAY 28th

LIVE MUSIC CONCERTS AT LAKEVIEW PARK & BEACH

process, including the history of growing and processing sugar on Alma Plantation, where Three Roll Estate is based today. wbrmuseum.org. k

MAY 8th - MAY 28th LIVE MUSIC DOWNTOWN ALIVE!

Eunice, Louisiana

Lafayette, Louisiana

The perfect Cajun Country escape, Lakeview Park & Beach is a favorite among visitors and locals alike. Here are les bons temps this month:

Downtown Alive! has merged community and culture to create a weekly tradition and celebration in the many creative spaces in downtown Lafayette. Food and beverage concessions are available, and sales help keep Downtown Alive! free, so please leave your ice chests at home with your pets.

May 7: River Katz May 14: Geno Delafose and French Rockin' Boogie May 21: Travis Matte & the Kingpins May 28: Ashton Dupre 8 pm–11 pm. $10 admission for noncampers. lvpark.com. k

MAY 7th - AUG 21st HISTORY OF BOOZE FROM SUGAR TO RUM Port Allen, Louisiana

Sugar has been a primary crop in Louisiana for centuries, and now the West Baton Rouge Museum is partnering with Three Roll Estate to take a closer look at the process of distilling it into rum. The exhibition will walk through the entire

May 8: Ray Boudreaux—Mother's Day Brunch on Jefferson Street. 11 am. May 13: UL Lafayette School of Music Bach Lunch at Parc Sans Souci. Noon. May 13: Rosie Ledet & The Zydeco Playboys + Rusty Metoyer & The Zydeco Krush at Parc Sans Souci. 5 pm. May 20: Cedric Watson et Bijou Creole Bach Lunch at Parc Sans Souci. Noon. May 20: Dyer County + The Bucks at Parc Sans Souci. 5 pm. May 28: Local Palooza featuring Clay Cormier & The Highway Boys, Lil' Nathan & the Zydeco Big Timers, Jeffrey Broussard & The Creole Cowboys,

// M A Y 2 2

Events

Beginning May 9th- May 13th Lost Bayou Ramblers, and more at Parc International and Parc Sans Souci. downtownlafayette.org. k

CALENDAR OF EVENTS MAY 2022 Cajun Crossroads Festival Hessmer Sports Complex May 6-7, 2022 Cajun Crossroads Festival Walker Hayes Concert Paragon Casino Resort May 6, 2022 (9:00pm, doors @8:00pm) Paragoncasinoresort.com Cochon de Lait Mini Fest Mansura’s Cochon de Lait Pavilion May 14, 2022 Cochondelaitfestival.com Kenny Wayne Shepherd Band Paragon Casino Resort May 28, 2022 (8:00pm, doors @7:00pm) Paragoncasinoresort.com

8592 Hwy 1, Mansura, LA 800.833.4195 travelavoyelles.com 22

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

MAY

9th -

JUN

12th

ART EXHIBITIONS ERIN WOODBREY EXHIBITION Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The New England-based artist's interdisciplinary work, which seeks to untangle and examine the current fraught global environment through objects, landscapes, and the relationship between bodies and architecture, will be on display at Yes We Cannibal. Reception and artist talk May 14 from 4 pm–6 pm. yeswecannibal.org. k

MAY

11th

CONCERTS RENÉE FLEMING IN RECITAL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Soprano Renée Fleming is acclaimed internationally for her luscious voice and powerful stage presence, having earned four Grammy Awards and the National Medal of Arts—America's highest honor an individual artist can receive. Pennington Biomedical Research Foundation has invited her to return to the River Center stage to perform a broad selection from her extensive repertoire. Tickets start at $35 at ticketmaster.com. 7:30 pm. pbrf.org/matm. k

MAY 11th - MAY 15th FESTIVALS FROG FESTIVAL Rayne, Louisiana

Watch your step on the Rayne Fair Grounds this weekend since there are bound to be frogs underfoot as this toadally awesome festival celebrates fifty years. When not rooting for their favorite fleetfooted frogs in the racing/jumping contest, festival-goers enjoy great food (including fried frog legs, of course), huge carnival rides, arts and crafts shows, accordion and dance contests, frog cook-offs and frog eating contests, and musical talent. 5 pm–midnight. $5 for adults (free on Wednesday night); free for children twelve and younger. raynefrogfestival.com. k

charming home. Lawn chairs, quilts, and blankets encouraged—as well as your own booze. This month, catch Special Guest with The Tide Televised. 5 pm–10 pm. $10. Tickets at bontempstix.com. k

MAY 12th

GREEN THUMBS MASTER GARDENER TALKS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Master Gardeners of East Baton Rouge Parish are once again sharing their expertise with the public at these helpful talks at the Greenwell Springs Library. Kathy Morris will kick off the evening with a talk titled "Some Like it Hot," followed by a talk titled "Orchids" by Dr. Rehn. 5:30 pm–7:30 pm. Free. ebrmg. wildapricot.org. k

MAY 12th

CONCERTS TOMMY MALONE AT NUNU Arnaudville, Louisiana

Crescent City native and 1970s musical icon Tommy Malone is stepping on stage this month at NUNU Arts & Culture Collective, where he will perform solo and reminisce on his rich history as a musician with formative bands the likes of Dustwoofie, the Cartoons, the Continental Drifters, and the Subdudes. Doors at 6 pm; show at 7:30 pm. $25 at eventbrite.com. k

MAY 12th

LOCAL HISTORY DEFYING THE ODDS AND EXPECTATIONS: IRISH CANAL WORKERS IN NEW ORLEANS New Orleans, Louisiana

Spend an evening exploring the legacy of Irish Canal workers in New Orleans at the Cabildo with Tulane historian Laura D. Kelley. These predominately Irish Catholic men built many of New Orleans' canals and infrastructure projects. According to legend, tens of thousands of Irish workers died digging the New Basin Canal in the 1830s, though no historical evidence backs this up. Kelley will discuss what the actual history shows. 6 pm–7:30 pm. louisianastatemuseum.org. k

MAY 12th

MAY

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

In the cozy, twinkling corner that is Beauvoir Park, live music finds a

The massively-talented Masakowski family will perform in the intimate

OUTDOOR MUSIC SPECIAL GUEST AT BEAUVOIR PARK

12th

LIVE MUSIC MASAKOWSKI FAMILY AT CHORUM HALL

setting of Chorum Hall, with father Steve on guitar, Sasha Masakowski on vocals, Martin Masakowski on bass, Peter Varnado on drums, and Shae Pierre on piano. 7:30 pm. $25–$40 at bontempstix.com. k

MAY 12th - MAY 13th

LIVE MUSIC CANDLELIGHT CONCERT: THE PIANO MEN Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Enjoy an intimate Candlelight Concert presented by the Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra at the Cary Saurage Community Arts Center, featuring works by Chopin and hits by Billy Joel. 6:30 pm Thursday; 9:30 pm Friday. $30–$55. brso.org. k

MAY

12th - MAY 15th

FESTIVALS BATON ROUGE SOUL FOOD FESTIVAL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Southern cuisine, live music, competitions, vendors, and more are coming to the Riverfront Plaza for the fifth annual Baton Rouge Soul Food Festival. It all kicks off on Thursday at Henry Turner Jr.'s Listening Room, with a sneak peak of some of the weekend's musical talent, plus a Greens, Beans, and Chicken Wings Soul Food Buffet. 7 pm–

midnight. Live music and entertainment will raise downtown throughout the rest of the weekend, including acts by Henry Turner Jr. & Flavor, Smokehouse Porter and Miss Mamie, Nspire and the Inspiration Band, and many more. Meanwhile in the Plaza, find cooking competitions, and all of the soul food you can handle. The festival is free to the public, but $25 Soul Foodie tickets get you two food and soft drink tickets, plus photo ops; $100 VIP tickets include four food and soft drink tickets, two T-shirts, CDs, and additional perks. Both are available at bontempstix.com. More details at brsoulfoodfest.com. k

MAY

12th - MAY 19th

LIVE MUSIC RHYTHMS ON THE RIVER Lafayette, Louisiana

The Vermilion River, that is. River Ranch's Thursday evening concert series is a good excuse to make a trip across the basin. In the spring, the picture-perfect traditional neighborhood development hosts concerts by Acadiana-based bands in its town square. 5:30 pm–8:30 pm, with beverage and food vendors on-site. May 12: Jamie Bergeron & the Kickin Cajuns May 19: Sonny Landreth & Marcia Ball Free. riverranchdev.com. k

MAY

13th

TRIBUTE CONCERTS "GEORGIA ON MY MIND" : CELEBRATING THE MUSIC OF RAY CHARLES

MAY 13th

ART EXHIBITIONS THE TALENTED ARTS PROGRAM OF ST. LANDRY PARISH EXHIBIT

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Opelousas, Louisiana

The Manship Theatre and WBRZ present a special evening celebrating the American treasure that is Ray Charles, whose music continues to resonate with listeners around the globe. Charles' greatest hits will be rendered by a cast of award-winning performers, including Emmy Award-winner and Grammy nominee Clint Holmes, tentime Grammy and Dove Awards winner Take 6, and six-time Grammy nominated vocalist Nnenna Freelon, plus many more. 7:30 pm. $50–$75. manshiptheatre.org. k

A new exhibition at the Opelousas Museum & Interpretive Center celebrates the artwork of St. Landry youth participating in The Talented Art Program, which incorporates visual arts education into the curriculum at St. Landry Public Schools for students who exhibit prowess. This exhibition will feature original paintings, sculpture, drawings, photos, and collages by sixtyfive local students. An opening reception will be held from 4 pm–5:30 pm. cityofopelousas.com. k

MAY

13th

TEST YOUR LUCK CASINO ROYALE Opelousas, Louisiana

Join the St. Landry Parish Chamber of Commerce for this exciting Bond-style gambling soirée. Your $75 ticket earns you $5,000 in play money, which you can use to play classic casino games like blackjack, poker, and roulette. Cocktails and a gourmet buffet will round out the night, not to mention a silent auction. At the Stone Oaks Ballroom from 5 pm–9 pm. stlandrychamber.com. k

MAY 13th

FUN FUNDRAISERS BLACK AND ORANGE BASH Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Halloween enthusiasts of 10/31 Consortium kick off the season early for Friday the thirteenth with their Black and Orange Bash, held at the River Center Branch library. No tricks here—just treats in the form of food, a cash bar, and great music for dancing your scares away, plus lots of announcements in conjunction with this year's Fifolet Halloween

// M A Y 2 2

Events

Beginning May 13th - May 14th Festival. Open to the public, though black and orange apparel (costumes included) is a must. Bring a canned item or a costume for donation to be entered into door-prize drawings. $40; 7 pm‒10 pm. info@1031consortium.com or 1031consortium.com. k

MAY 13th - MAY 14th

FESTIVALS MUDBUG MUSIC FESTIVAL Natchez, Mississippi

A tree’s health is built, literally, from the ground up. Healthy soil gives trees and shrubs ready access to the nutrients, air, and water they require to survive. SCOTT, LA • 888-620-TREE (8733) WWW.BOBSTREE.COM

The Mudbug Music Festival is returning to The Natchez Bluff for two days of live music, crawfish, and revelry after a successful inaugural event last year. Performances come courtesy of Cody Jinks, Bret Michaels, Lukas Nelson and the Promise of the Real, Lucinda Williams, Drive-By Truckers, The Wild Feathers, Red and the Revelers, and YZ Ealey. Plus there will be an endless supply of C&M crawfish, plenty of food vendors, cold beer, and cocktails on the Mississippi River. General admission $50 in advance for Friday and $60 in advance for Saturday. Weekend passes are $100 at ardenland.net. Children eight and younger free. k

MAY 13 - MAY 15 th

GOOD EATS RIFF RIDGEL CRAWFISH COOK-OFF Tickfaw, Louisiana

The Riff Ridgel Crawfish Cook-Off, held on Tickfaw's Festival Grounds, today promises to boast more teams and more music than ever, plus a kids' tent (complete with face painting, popcorn, and snowballs).This year's live music performances come courtesy of Zydeco Mike. In addition to crawfish, there'll be eggrolls, jambalaya, soft drinks, beer, water, and New Orleans Daiquiris for sale—something for everyone. $30; $35 at the gate. Children ages eleven and younger are free. 11 am–4 pm. riffridgelcrawfishcookoff.com. k

MAY

14th

KID STUFF ALYCAT BOOK LAUNCH PARTY

Covington, Louisiana

Lafayette, Louisiana

A full range of The Beatles' discography will be performed live onstage, from the early hits to later classics ("All You Need is Love," "Yellow Submarine," "Got to Get You Into My Life," and more), this tribute will take you back to a time when all you needed was love, and a little help from your friends. In the Christ Episcopal School Theatre; 7 pm on May 13; 3 pm May 15. $18; $5 for students; children younger than five are free. npassingers.org. k

Celebrate the release of Alycat and the Cattywampus Wednesday, the latest book from the award-winning The Alycat Series. Join a cattywampus party that includes story times, photo opportunities with Alycat the Mascot, sweet treats from Jolie Cakes Bakery, cats available for adoption from Wild Cat Nation, fun balloons by balloonist Rick Hessler, cotton candy, Raising Cane's, crafts, activities, and more. The event is free, and the book will be available for purchase and to be signed by the author—$1 from each purchase will benefit Wild Cat Foundation. 3 pm–6 pm. Find more information via the "Alycat Launch Party" Event on Facebook. k

THEATRE DRINKING HABITS 2 AT CITÉ DES ARTS Lafayette, Louisiana

The sequel is here! After last year's hilarious production of Drinking Habits captured Acadiana hearts, Cité des Arts is pleased to produce a follow up, starring the Sisters of Perpetual Sewing. In order to save an orphanage (and the excitement of philanthropic days gone by), the sisters plan to create a play as a fundraiser, fighting obstacles like an impending baby, stage fright, narcolepsy, and wine that looks a lot like grape juice. The show will M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

MAY 14th

CONCERTS LET IT BE: A BEATLES TRIBUTE

MAY 13th - MAY 22nd

open with a Special Gala opening night with complimentary food and beverages, plus special entertainment by magician Mitch Richard before the show. Doors for opening night open at 6 pm; tickets are $30. For the rest of the run, shows will be held at 7:30 pm with Sunday matinees at 2 pm. $20. citedesarts.org. k

MAY 14th

GOOD EATS WING WARS OF ACADIANA Lafayette, Louisiana

In Parc International on this May Saturday, passerbies might find themselves tempted by the tantalizing smells of barbecue and hot sauce. Hosted by the Gifting Grace Project of Acadiana Homeless Children's Outreach, this inaugural festival is designed to bring awareness to the growing issue of childhood

Come Celebrate in iberia parish

ENJOY BEATS ON THE BAYOU* Live Music at the Isle of Iberia RV Park & Resort!

MAY Gordon Bradberry Band – May 28, 6-9pm JUNE Swampland Revival Band – June 4, 6-9pm Matthew Ewing All Star Band – June 11, 6-9pm The Cast – June 18, 6-9pm Andy Smith – June 25, 6-9pm JULY Basin Street Band – July 2, 6-9pm Cajun Company Band – July 9, 6-9pm Southern Swing Band – July 16, 6-9pm DJ Will – July 23, 6-9pm Straight Whiskey – July 30, 6-9pm

Spend time at Avery Island, Jefferson Island, the Jeanerette Museum, and take advantage of the New Iberia Historic District Pass** for attractions at a discount! Enjoy dining, history, outdoor beauty, as you Savor the Difference in Iberia Parish.

AUGUST The Cast – Aug. 6, 6-9pm Beau Young Band – Aug. 13, 6-9pm Kip Sonnier – Aug. 20, 6-9pm Andy Smith – Aug. 27, 6-9pm SEPTEMBER Colby Latiolais & Ambush – Sept. 3, 6-9pm Kip Sonnier – Sept. 17, 6-9pm Blake Luquette – Sept. 24, 6-9pm OCTOBER Blake Luquette – Oct. 15, 6-9pm Bad Boys Band – Oct. 29, 7-10pm *$10 per person, cash only at the door, one hour before showtime.

Iberia Parish Convention & Visitors Bureau 2513 Hwy. 14, New Iberia, LA 70560 888-942-3742 • IberiaTravel.com

**IberiaTravel.com/HistoricPass // M A Y 2 2

Events Beginning May 14 - May 20 th

homelessness in our community while challenging local chefs to a good old wing cook off. 11 am–5 pm. wingwarsofacadiana.com. k

MAY 14th

FUN FUNDRAISERS ART & SOUL GALA New Orleans, Louisiana

The New Orleans Center for Creative Arts' (NOCCA) annual Art & Soul Gala will give you an opportunity to support a wonderful cause for the arts, as well as enjoy food from local restaurants and enter a raffle for a 2022 Lincoln Corsair. There will be entertainment provided by NOCCA alumni including Doreen Ketchens, Orlando Gilbert, and the NOCCA Alumni All-Stars. Tickets start at $100. Patron Party starts at 6 pm, Gala starts at 7 pm. one.bidpal.net/nocca. k

MAY 14th

BOAT RACES THE CHITIMACHA RACE New Iberia, Louisiana

Tour du Teche will host a one-day race for kayaks, canoes, pirogues, and SUPs.

Taking a ten-mile route from Jeanerette to the public boat ramp on Chitimacha Nation territory near Charenton, paddlers will be met at day's end by the Chitimacha boat launch. 10 am–3 pm. Entry is $30 per person. tourduteche.com. k

MAY 14th

FESTIVALS THIS IS HOME FEST Lake Charles, Louisiana

Folks will flock into the 1000 block of Ryan Street in downtown Lake Charles for this music festival, all in the name of celebrating the rich culture and music of Southwest Louisiana. Acts include Amanda Shaw, Suzanne Santo, Julian Primeaux, and more. Free. Noon–10 pm. thisishomefest.com. k

MAY 14th - MAY 15th FESTIVALS BRTISTIC FESTIVAL Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Two days of live music, live painters, local food, and creative spirits will gather 'round in the not-so-hidden-

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

gem of Beauvoir Park in Baton Rouge. Musical performers will include Riarosa, Slomile Swift, Quarx, Baby in the '90s, Berkshire Sound, Green Gasoline, Kinky Vanilla, Chupacabra, Southdown Souls, and Palomino Darling. Doors at 2 pm on Saturday, with music lasting until 10 pm; 1 pm–9 pm Sunday. $25 for single day pass; $45 for weekend pass at bontempstix.com. k

MAY 14th & MAY 21st

LIVE MUSIC THE DEW DROP JAZZ HALL SPRING CONCERTS Mandeville, Louisiana

The historic Dew Drop Jazz & Social Hall, the venerable century-plus-old rural jazz venue, will host the following: May 14: Sarah Quintana & Friends May 21: Doucet Freres & Lacher Prise Trio 6:30 pm–9 pm; all on the 400 block of Lamarque Street. $10. dewdropjazzhall.com. k

folks at Wild Bush Farm + Vineyard, and embark on the spring edition of the property's Jazz 'n the Vines outdoor concert series. Wines are available for tasting and purchase and food trucks will be on site. See the lineup: May 14: The Tin Men May 28: Mia Borders 81250 Old Military Road. $10–$25; children seventeen and under free at bontempstix.com. wildbushfarmandvineyard.com. Read more about what's happening at Wild Bush Farm + Vineyard in our feature story on page 34. k

MAY

14th - MAY 30th

LIVE MUSIC CONCERTS AT THE LIBRARY Baton Rouge, Louisiana

This month, three exciting free community concerts are coming to the East Baton Rouge Main Branch Library at Goodwood:

Bush, Louisiana

May 14: EBR Schools Talented Music String Orchestra. 1:30 pm. May 28: Civic Orchestra of Baton Rouge. 3 pm. May 30: Baton Rouge Concert Band Memorial Day Concert. 7 pm.

Come take a swig of good fun as the

ebrpl.com. k

MAY

14th & MAY 28th

OUTDOOR MUSIC JAZZ 'N THE VINES SPRING CONCERT SERIES

MAY

15th

LIVE MUSIC THIRD SUNDAY CONCERT SERIES: BEN REDWINE Covington, Louisiana

Christ Episcopal Church in Covington's Third Sunday Concert Series returns featuring Northshorefavorite jazz maestro Ben Redwine. Doors at 4:30 pm; music at 5 pm. Free. christchurchcovington.com. k

MAY

17th

- MAY

22nd

BROADWAY ON TOUR MEAN GIRLS: THE MUSICAL New Orleans, Louisiana

Tina Fey's incomparable 2004 hit takes the stage at the Saenger again. On top of the obligatory rendition of "Jingle Bell Rock", just imagine the sorts of viciously funny songs might burn books, Plastics, and bus injuries inspire. Tuesday–Thursday performances at 7:30 pm (On Wednesday, wear pink); Friday and Saturday at 8 pm, with a Saturday matinee at 2 pm; Sunday performances at 1 pm and 6:30 pm. $65–$109. saengernola.com. k

MAY 18th

FUN FUNDRAISERS DOWNTON ABBEY: A NEW ERA

partnering with the Historic New Orleans Collection and Loyola University New Orleans Department of Theatre Arts & Dance to produce The Six Blanches, an immersive in-depth exploration of Blanche Dubois in a variety of forms, as portrayed by a variety of actresses. The play is produced in conjunction with the HNOC's current exhibition celebrating the seventy-fifth anniversary of A Streetcar Named Desire. Tickets are purchased for different admission times each half hour at 6 pm, 6:30 pm, 7 pm, 7:30 pm, 8 pm, and 8:30 pm. $15, $5 for students and educators. my.hnoc.org. k

CONCERTS KISS'S ACE FREHLEY AT THE MANSHIP Baton Rouge, Louisiana

KISS fans won't want to miss out on this one. Co-founding member of the iconic band and longtime lead guitarist—who played with the group from 1973 to 1982—Paul Daniel "Ace" Frehley is comng to the Manship stage this Friday. 7:30 pm. $65–$80. manshiptheatre.org. k

MAY

20th

CHEERS TO LOCAL HISTORY HISTORICAL HAPPY HOUR Port Allen, Louisiana

Join Louisiana Public Broadcasting for an exclusive premiere event for the new Downton Abbey movie, two days before its official release. The film will be screened at the Cinemark Theater in Perkins Rowe, and will serve as a fundraiser for LPB's programs and educational resources. Each guest will also receive a mystery gift with a French twist, as a way of saying "thank you" for supporting LPB. 6 pm. $60, includes a $10 gift card to use at the concession stand at bontempstix.com. k

Pack up your favorite libations, and open your mind to the history of our community. This month's event focuses on "Tequila and Traditional Music," where Tequilier Roberto Carrillo will present a tasting and talk on the favorite Mexican agave-based spirit. Following the talk and tasting, there will be a performance of traditional Mexican music by Los Norteños del Sur. 6 pm–8 pm. Free. westbatonrougemuseum.com. k

MAY 18

LIVE MUSIC CONCERTS AT BEE NICE MUSIC

CONCERTS RIVER CITY JAZZ MASTERS Baton Rouge, Louisiana

MAY

20th

ENRICHMENT ACTIVITIES FOR ADULTS

50 AND ABOVE

2022-23 MEMBERSHIP BEGINS JULY 1 MEMBERSHIP $50 Members can join courses in Baton Rouge, St. Francisville, and Slidell Contact OLLI at LSU at (225) 578-2500 or via email at olli@outreach.lsu.edu

Join today at online.lsu.edu/olli

Elizabethan Gallery More Than Just A Frame Shop

ONE DAY FRAMING AVAILABLE

Hot Art, Cool Nights A SPRING ART EVENT

Friday, May 6th • 5-9 pm Customer Appreciation Wine & Cheese • 5-7pm Free and Open to the Public “Oysters” Oil on Canvas by Heather Connole

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge's annual series attracting some of the world's most talented jazz artists welcomes Donald Harrison to the Manship Theatre stage this month. 7:30 pm. $28–$48. artsbr.org/rcjm. k

Located in one of Baton Rouge’s most charming neighborhoods, the backyardturned-stage dubbed “Bee Nice Music” provides a casual space for listening to great local music. Just pull up your lawn chair for Na Na Sha. Free. Find time at facebook. com/beenicemusic. k

MAY 18th - MAY 25th

MAY

THEATRE THE SIX BLANCHES

SUMMER SEMESTER RUNS JULY 11 - AUGUST 5

MAY 20th

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Join today at online.lsu.edu/olli

“Hidden Doves” Oil on Canvas by Claire Pasqua

20th

FUN FUNDRAISERS WILD WINE WALK

New Orleans, Louisiana

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Blanche Dubois of Tennessee Williams' A Streetcar Named Desire has been elevated to the status of one of the most iconic characters in modern theatre. The Tennessee Williams Theatre Company is

Wine tasting, food sampling, twinkly lights, live music: it's a night of celebration and class we've all been craving. Oh, and then there are the monkeys. And the giraffes. And, of course, the alligators. The Friends

“Sunrise Beach” Oil on Canvas by Carol Hallock

“Sparking Light” Oil on Canvas by Nancy Smitherman

680 Jefferson Highway, BR, LA 70806 • 225-924-6437 • Elizabethangallery.com // M A Y 2 2

Events

Beginning May 20th- May 21st of the Baton Rouge Zoo invite all to their second annual Wild Wine Walk, a lively and indulgent stroll through the zoo, enjoying a variety of wines and bites from local eateries. 5 pm–7:30 pm. $50; $75 for VIP, which includes early entry (4 pm) and exclusive rides on the Zoo's shuttles for the first hour, as well as a commemorative insulated wine tumbler. brzoo.org. k

MAY

20th

LIVE MUSIC UPCOMING SHOWS AT LOCUST ALLEY Natchez, Mississippi

Locust Alley in Natchez is hosting Ward Davis with a full band. 8 pm. Tickets start at $10 at bontempstix.com. locustalleynatchez.com. k

MAY

20th

LIVE MUSIC BRSO: BEETHOVEN'S NINTH Baton Rouge, Louisiana

The Baton Rouge Symphony Orchestra presents a grand performance of Beethoven's Ninth, conducted by Maestro Timothy Muffitt. 7:30 pm–9:30 pm at the River

Silver Slipper Stage and Mele Printing Stage, as well as comedy acts, the City Wide Choir of Slidell, and more all weekend long. $10; $5 for students; free for children younger than six. sttammanyhamburgerfestival.com. k

experience with unlimited pours from a selected winery from 5 pm–6 pm Friday, a VIP parking spot, and access to the VIP tent on Saturday. Tickets available at bontempstix.com. winedownfr.com. k

Center Theatre. Tickets start at $35. brso.org. k

MAY 20th - MAY 22nd

MAY

FESTIVALS BOGALUSA BALLOON FEST

MAY 20

SWEET SIPS WINE DOWN ON FALSE RIVER New Roads, Louisiana

Immersed in New Roads' distinct small-town charm, enjoy a weekend of wine tastings from Napa Valley, carefullycurated local cuisine, art, and live music. A sparkling wine reception will kick off the weekend on Friday from 5:30 pm–6:30 pm at the Poydras Museum. Guests will then enjoy a Winemaker's Dinner, hosted by Ma Mama's Kitchen and three private homes on the river—which will feature wine pairings with select menu items. 6:30 pm–9:30 pm. $250. Saturday's event will take visitors to Main Street, where they can sample fine wines and crafted cocktails while exploring local boutiques, restaurants, and venues—each of which will feature artists and wineries from Napa. Make every stop on your punch card for a chance at winning the special raffle. 6 pm–9 pm. $75. $1,000 VIP admission includes four tickets for the entire weekend, plus a one-on-one

FESTIVALS MID-CITY BAYOU BOOGALOO

Bogalusa, Louisiana

New Orleans, Louisiana

A balloon festival that's full of more than just hot air: catch food vendors, live music, a carnival, and more at 401 Walker Street in Bogalusa. 10 am– 10 pm. Find the event on Facebook for more information. k

MAY

20th - MAY 22nd

Before the sizzling summer heat sets in, the Mid-City Bayou Boogaloo returns to invite all to the banks of beloved Bayou St. John for a familyfriendly festival of live music, delicious food, art, and all kinds of other fun. The festival strives to be a "zero-waste event"—all the more reason to join in. Plus, this year's lineup includes acts like the Soul Rebels with Big Freedia, Maggie Koerner, Big Chief Monk Boudreaux, and more. On Bayou St. John where Orleans Avenue meets Moss. thebayouboogaloo.com. k

20th - MAY 22nd

FOOD FESTIVALS ST. TAMMANY HAMBURGER FESTIVAL Covington, Louisiana

Don't miss St. Tammany's inaugural Hamburger Festival at the St. Tammany Parish Fairgrounds this weekend. Grills will be ablaze in hopes of winning the $1,000 prize and trophy for the best hamburger in the land. In addition to sniffing in the scent of well-prepared patties, guests will enjoy a classic car show, carnival rides, hamburger eating contests, and even a baby crawling race. Live music will be provided on the

MAY

20th

- MAY

22nd

WELLNESS FESTIVALS BHAKTI FARMS YOGA FEST Covington, Louisiana

In the secluded haven of Bhakti Farms in Covington, yogis will convene for a weekend of restorative wellness. It

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Visitors Center located off I-10 @ Grosse Tete

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n Hanse a r v il le

visitiberville.com (877) 310-8874

all begins on Friday with a concert by Sean Johnson & The Wildlotus Band at 6 pm after attendees have settled into their campsites. The rest of the weekend will feature a Bhakti yoga flow held in two tents, with classes held every hour on the hour for a total of ten classes held throughout the day; a live music stage; a retail village; local food vendors with fresh meal options; a Kids Forest with an inflatable obstacle course and games; lectures; and a healing village with body and energy workers, offering fascial stretch therapy, massage, reiki, and more. Ends with a vegetarian/vegan luncheon at noon on Sunday. $175 for a three day all-access pass; $75 for Saturday Yoga; $45 for Sunday Yoga; $35 for an Observer Pass (access to lectures, musicians, and retail village); $45 for the Friday night concert; $35 Sunday luncheon. Primitive camping and car camping options available for $15 per night. bhaktifarms.com. k

MAY

21st

GREEN THUMBS PILGRIMAGE GARDEN CLUB FLOWER SHOW Natchez, Mississippi

The Natchez Pilgrimage Garden Club's annual spring flower show this year has the theme "children's fairytales

and fables," and will be held at Kings Daughters B&B, a historic B&B that was once a hospital for unwed mothers and their children in the early twentieth century. 2 pm. Free. Find the Pilgrimage Garden Club on Facebook for more information. k

MAY

FESTIVALS FOOLS FEST 2 Covington, Louisiana

St. John Fools of Misrule marching club invite all to enjoy a free concert at the Covington Trailhead, featuring a lineup of Drivin' and Cryin', Magnolia Bayou, Dash Rip Rock, Cypress Creek, Abita Blues Band, and Three Rivers Cooperative. 1 pm–9 pm. Free. foolsofmisrule.com. k

MAY

21st

LIVE MUSIC ABITA SPRINGS OPRY CONCERTS Abita Springs, Louisiana

The Abita Springs Opry is devoted to preserving Louisiana's indigenous music in all its guises. Arrive early and join the folks who've made a ritual of enjoying gumbo, hot dogs, and homemade pastries, not to mention the

pre-show sound checks and front porch concerts. The lineup for May includes performances by The Bad Pennies Pleasure Makers, Pat Reedy and the Long-Time Goners, The Slick Skillet Serenaders, and The Travis Clark Band. 7 pm–9 pm. $20. abitaopry.org. k

MAY 21st

UNCONVENTIONAL CABARETS BROADWAY BACKWARDS ON THE BAYOU New Iberia, Louisiana

The Iberia Performing Arts Center says to hell with gender norms with its version of Broadway Backwards, a fundraiser performance originally presented by Broadway Cares to celebrate the LGBTQ+ community through genderreversed renditions of popular showtunes. IPAL's version promises to take it a step further, celebrating "backwards" performances when it comes to age and other societal expectations. 7:30 pm at the Essanee Theater. $15. ipaltheater.com. k

MAY 21st - MAY 22nd

FESTIVALS MOONSHADOW FESTIVAL

Day Weekend. Musical performances will feature Handmade Moments, Brittany Purdy, Ray Wimley, and Cactus Thief, with late night electronic music each night. The Moonshadow Festival will also feature wellness programming including yoga classes, motivational seminars, cacao ceremonies, propagation workshops, and more. Independent local artists will also create installations for the event, such as projection mapping and live painting. The festival will be held on the grounds of The Abita Springs Be & Be, a magical eighty-eight acre property equipped with two cabins, labyrinths, lakes, a watsu pool, a sauna, and a non-denominational temple. Tier one general admission tickets are $85, which includes full festival access and one camping and car pass. Day passes are $45. To rent an RV, which comes with four admission tickets, is $1200. Tickets can be purchased at moonshadow.norby. live. k

MAY 21st & 28th

LIVE MUSIC CONCERTS AT LA POUSSIERE CAJUN DANCEHALL

Abita Springs, Louisiana

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana

The Moonshadow Festival is bringing a synthesis of music, wellness, and art to beautiful Abita Springs on Memorial

For almost seventy years now, weekends have found young and old rhythmendowed folks packing the dance floor at

// M A Y 2 2

Events

Beginning May 21st - May 31st

Calendar of

EVENTS

La Poussiere to go round and round to the live music. On weekends, visitors come from across the region to enjoy beloved local acts on Friday and Saturday nights, plus Jackie Caillier / Ivy Dugas & the Cajun Cousins every Sunday afternoon from 2 pm–5 pm. Here's what to look forward to this month: May 21: High Performance. May 28: Geno Delafose & French Rockin' Boogie. 8 pm–11 pm. lapoussiere.com. k

MAY

22nd

FESTIVALS CHAKRA MUSIC FESTIVAL

May 27- 29 | Gonzales Jambalaya Festival For more info go to

VisitLaSweetSpot.com

New Orleans, Louisiana

Culture and education come together for this festival in Armstrong Park celebrating Louisiana's African American, Native American, Latin, and Indian communities and their many inf luences. Music and dance performances, food and art vendors, and panel discussions on various health and wellness topics will round out the event. 11 am–6 pm. Free. Find more information at eventbrite.com. k

MAY

23rd

CATEGORY SONGWRITERS SIDE BY SIDE: MAISON MOUTON Lafayette, Louisiana

Acadiana Center for the Arts is excited to announce Songwriters Side by Side at the historic Maison Mouton Bed & Breakfast. This special evening will feature an intimate concert with performances from Caroline Helm and Sam Broussard. Attendees will dine on delicious food, enjoy festive cocktails, and peruse beautiful artwork provided by local artists in a silent auction benefiting the artists as well as the AcA. $75 per person. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

MAY

25th

LIVE MUSIC JAZZ LISTENING ROOM: AMBER WEEKES Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Child of Harlem royalty, Amber Weekes brings her "voice from Heaven" and her new albums to the Cary Saurage Community Arts Center as part of the Arts Council of Greater Baton Rouge's Jazz Listening Room Series. 7:30 pm. $20 at bontempstix.com. artsbr.org. k 30

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MAY 26th

CONCERTS DUSTIN DALE GASPARD WITH SWEET CECILIA AT THE ACA Lafayette, Louisiana

From the grand land of Cow Island, Louisiana—Dustin Dale Gaspard's debut album Hoping Heaven Got a Kitchen is a heartfelt prayer to the memory of his grandparents and their lives on the banks of Louisiana's muddy, mossy bayous. Opened by Grammy-nominated band Sweet Cecilia, Gaspard presents a one-of-akind concert for the Acadiana Center for the Arts. acadianacenterforthearts.org. k

MAY 26th - JUN 5th FUN & GAMES CAJUN HEARTLAND STATE FAIR Lafayette, Louisiana

Now over thirty years old, this massive, eleven-day midway carnival attracts more than 175,000 people to the heart of Cajun country. Bring the kids out for a whirl on the giant Ferris wheel and the Mega Drop; try your hand at a prize-winning ring toss. If the Ferris wheel is too tame, try out a Zipline & Warrior Challenge Park, where you can cruise down a zipline like Indiana Jones, for free. Get your sweet tooth ready for eleven days of funnel-cake-fueled fun. Located on the grounds surrounding the Cajundome. Free; $10 for parking. Gates open at 5 pm on weekdays and noon on weekends. cajundome.com. k

MAY

27th - MAY 29th

FESTIVALS MUDBUG MADNESS FESTIVAL Shreveport, Louisiana

Shreveport's Mudbug Madness Festival promises much more than mudbugs, though the bugs are certainly worth mentioning. Head down to Festival Plaza downtown, where three stages of live entertainment, arts & crafts, children's activities, and more await. And of course, there's crawfish eating to crawfish calling—more than enough mudbug merriment to go around. Moreover, there's gumbo, jambalaya, boudin, and other Cajun and Creole staples. Free Friday until 5 pm; $5 entry after 5 pm and throughout the rest of the weekend. 11 am–11 pm. mudbugmadness.com. k

MAY

27th

- MAY

29th

THEATRE THE ODD COUPLE AT IPAL Kenner, Louisiana

There's a laughably-mismatched roommate out there for everyone.

The Iberia Performing Arts League is staging the tale of Oscar and Felix. 7:30 pm Thursday–Saturday; 2 pm Sundays. $10–$15. ipaltheater.com. k

MAY

27th

- MAY

FOOD FESTS JAMBALAYA FESTIVAL

29th

Gonzales, Louisiana

Gonzales, the self-proclaimed "Jambalaya Capital of the World," will host a festival dedicated to your favorite regional meat and rice concoction (and surely, around here, there are plenty). The event is free to the public and features a jamba-cooking contest, live music, and carnival rides. Free. Friday music from 5:30 pm–midnight, Saturday from 12:30 pm–midnight, and Sunday from 12:30 pm–10:30 pm. jambalayafestival.net. k

MAY

28th

BLOCK PARTIES WHITE BOOT STROLL Houma, Louisiana

Celebrate the best of Terrebonne Parish’s arts and culture at the White Boot Stroll in historic downtown Houma. In addition to having the chance to buy locally-made products and art, guests will also enjoy live

music, art installations, photo opportunities, special promotions from restaurants, and more. Kids will especially enjoy Greenwood Gator Farm’s baby alligator petting station at the Waterlife Museum at this Terrebonne Parish community-wide block party. 11 am—7 pm. Free. houmatravel.com k

MAY

28th

- MAY

THEATRE THE KITCHEN WITCHES

29th

Covington, Louisiana

In Playmakers Theater's newest production, two "mature" cable-access cooking show hostesses have hated each other for thirty years, ever since Larry Biddle dated one and married the other. When circumstances put them together on a TV show called The Kitchen Witches, the insults f ly faster than the food. Dolly's long-suffering TV-producer son Stephen tries to keep order, but as long as Dolly's dressing room is one inch closer to the set than Isobel's, it's a losing battle. The show becomes a ratings smash as Dolly and Isobel top both Martha Stewart and Jerry Springer—watch it unfold live for yourself. 7 pm Saturday evenings; 2 pm Sunday afternoons. Find tickets for $20 at bontempstix.com. k

MAY 31st

HOOK, LINE & SINKER ST. TAMMANY CHAMBER FISHING TOURNAMENT Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Pack your tackle boxes, folks: it's the St. Tammany Chamber of Commerce's inaugural Fishing Tournament, held at The Rigolets Marina in Slidell. From the marina, anglers can access Lake Borgne, Lake Catherine, Lake Pontchartrain, as well as rigs, reefs, and bridges in the area. Food will be provided, and prizes will be given out for speckled trout, redfish, black drum, and flounder—plus there is an "open" category for whatever strange sea creatures you might draw up. $100 per person; $50 for children twelve and younger. sttammanychamber.org. k

For all events, including those we couldn’t fit into print, point your phone camera here.

St. Tammany Chamber of Commerce is hosting its first ever fishing tournament, to take place on bodies of water around the Northshore on May 31.

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V I S I T S T. F R A N C I S V I L L Explore the Unexpected

GET LOST IN ST. FRANCISVILLE AND WEST FELICIANA. YOU MAY BE SURPRISED AT WHAT YOU FIND.

here’s something magical about the unexpected, that feeling of surprise and serendipity when you stumble upon a special corner of the world, finding something you didn’t even know you were looking for. The further into West Feliciana you wander, the more you’ll sense it; a slower, simpler pace, or a spark of inspiration prompted by the sunset over the Mississippi. And you wouldn’t be the first.

Grab a picnic lunch from the Francis Smokehouse and Specialty Meats—fried chicken, po’boys, burgers, barbecue, and house-made boudin—and head to Afton Villa Gardens, where the ruins of a Gothic Revival mansion have been transformed into a landscaped terrace with swaths of azaleas in six shades. Time a visit to Myrtles Plantation, purportedly one of “America’s most haunted homes,” to catch the twilight tour, which features spooky accounts of Chloe, the spurned mistress turned jewelry-snatching spirit, and poor Mert, a ghost cat who still stalks the grounds. Later, dinner and a cold beer at the Magnolia Café—a low-key restaurant with live music on Friday nights—will put you safely to bed.

Tread off the beaten path and see the South Louisiana landscape through new eyes—the Bayou State isn’t all low-lying swampland, after all. Discover dramatic waterfalls and clearwater streams amid bluffs and ravines, rolling hills and stately live oaks, and miles of remote trails surrounding West Feliciana. St. Francisville, along with nearby Cat Island, is a dream destination for birders and other wildlife lovers, and as a result often hosts eco-tourism events. Explore mile Stay at the centrally located St. Francisville Inn, a restored nineteenthafter mile of remote trails surrounding West Feliciana from the seat of century Victorian where locals gather on the oak-shaded front porch your bike, or even saddle; horseback riding is an incomparable way to to enjoy the town’s vastest collection of wines and beers. Across see the Tunica Hills region up close. Commerce Street, the historic district’s main drag, the renovated 3-V Tourist Court rents retro cabins that date to the dawn of the motor There are excursions down almost every winding highway here, and age. the compact, idyllic downtown of St. Francisville serves as the perfect base camp. Visit and see for yourself how the hill country seems to open up in welcome. westfelicianatourism.com.

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

L E - YO U ’ L L L OV E I T H E R E Book a Private Party at Night & have a Band play!

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Features

MAY 2022

LOUISIANA

T E R R O I R S // 3 8

LOUISIANA

LITERATURE

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S I N C E R E LY O U R S

LOUISIANA

FLORA

CLINK

Virtue & Vines

MINDFUL GUZZLING AT WILD BUSH FARM + VINEYARD

he merlot burbles straight from the barrel into my waiting glass. I raise my hand and part my lips, but the winemaker stops me. “Don’t drink it just yet.” Well, that’s fine for him! Neil Gernon has learned patience, or maybe he was born with it. He was the strange bird making fruit beer in the nineties, long before the trend. “What’s wrong with your beer?” his friends would ask, cringing. Gernon met his wife, Monica Bourgeois, when the two worked at neighboring Brennan family restaurants in New Orleans and wooed her with wines he encountered as a beverage manager. Soon the two were each running their own small bottle shops—Monica at Sip and Neil at Cork and Bottle. In 2009, they picked out a growing partner, Chris Vandendriessche, at White Rock Vineyards in the Stag’s Leap region of Napa Valley, and began

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

Story and photos by Lucie Monk Carter blending the bright fruit of northern California into a small-batch line, Vending Machine Wines. “We’d been joking about how you can get anything out of a vending machine,” said Gernon, and the initials promised a premium. “Like a high-end car,” he laughed. In March 2020, the couple’s regular trips to Napa for harvesting and bottling became impossible. Only so content with a virtual vineyard, when St. Tammany Parish’s Pontchartrain Vineyards went up for sale, they saw an opportunity to expand their passion project to their home state. “We really wanted to make wine in Louisiana and put our mark on it, said Gernon. “What we’ve done with our experience in Napa, we wanted to bring here.” Now I’m standing with Gernon at their new venture, Wild Bush Farm + Vineyard in Bush, Louisiana, just outside of Covington on Old Military Road. In the

years ahead, Gernon and Bourgeois are overhauling the thirteen-acre property—which operated as Pontchartrain Vineyards for thirty years—into the farm and venue of their dreams. They’re pairing all they’ve learned from the world of wine with a homeland terroir they’re eager to understand. Good flavor takes time: whether it’s for tannins to mellow in a bottle or two winemakers to learn their craft. Bourgeois and Gernon were still ripping old, ailing bushes from the fields at their new farm when I visited. But they’re digging space, too, and sowing fruit with sights set on exquisite vintages that could only come from this place, hopefully to be available within the next four years. For the antsy whiners among us, I’ve documented all the activity I expect to enjoy between now and the first glass from Wild Bush’s Louisiana vines.

Six-Second Sangria

In the sale of Pontchartrain Vineyards, which John Seago established in 1991, Gernon and Bourgeois bought the vineyard’s inventory too. Some barrels suit their palates more than others, and many wines are available to drink in the taproom. Gernon cites “VA,” or volatile acidity, as what causes my merlot to smell sharp but taste just fine. As my glass hovers, Gernon darts over to the back wall and siphons port with a pipette called a barrel thief. Then he swirls the dark wine into my merlot. The final kick: orange soda, from a two-liter he pulls out of a nearby fridge. He grins at me as the Sunkist crackles into my drink. “There, I fixed it. It’s sangria.” My head swims with happy wails a la Jerry Jeff Walker. In their other concoctions, which do not include Sunkist, the Wild Bush proprietors favor fruit-forward flavor profiles with minimal chemical inputs and without the added sugar. “Adult Capri-Sun,” Gernon calls it.

A Man and Woman on a Mission

Winemakers chase good fruit. Gernon’s a geek for the Mission grape—the first fruit used to make wine in the United States. He and Bourgeois secured a crop for their recent batch of Wine Dive, a Vending Machine vintage, and were appropriately reverent in the processing. “We went whole cluster and didn’t destem,” said Gernon. Carbonic maceration produces the juiciest wine. “You take the clusters, put them in a tank, then seal them off from oxygen,” said Gernon. Carbon dioxide fills the tank, and the grape ferments from the inside out instead of the outside in. “They blow up, like fireworks.” Wine Dive is a blend of these macerated beauties with conventionally de-stemmed Mission grapes. I grabbed a bottle of Wine Dive at Calandro’s the night I finished this article, to get in the spirit, and saw

purple slivers of Grenache grape in the bottle’s neck, a quality marker of Gernon and Bourgeois’ unfiltered approach. Their white wines are orange, a signature of skin-contact wines, when the true color of the grape carries through. A few clusters of Mission grapes were saved for Like Swimming, a Wild Bush sibling to Wine Dive.

Wild Questions and Whimsical Labels

Visitors to the Wild Bush taproom can sip in silence or come ready for sport. Gernon’s installing a disc golf set (he’s an enthusiast and president of NoTeam, New Orleans Disc Golf Club) and the board games are piled high on the taproom shelves, as is a marble notebook filled with handwritten questions that will enliven any conversation. After grabbing an appealing plate from

the cheese fridge, choose, if you dare: your favorite Star Wars character, the one meal you’ll eat for the rest of your life, the next cabernet you’ll have while pondering and probing each other’s psyches … And you shouldn’t judge a book by its cover (“Is that title in Helvetica? I’ll pass.”) but you may gain some insight into your trusty winemakers by their bottles. Gernon designs many of the labels himself: the Wicket Piquette features a leering Ewok, while a more endearing baby goat fronts The Kid’s Got Heart, a mélange of syrah and pinot noir.

A Crush in Full Color

Sorry, Nicole Kidman, but I have been training my whole life to imitate Lucille Ball. (She died the month

Whether you are 6 or 60, we focus on your health. Staying healthy should be a top priority for all families, and Dr. North helps her families stay focused. From preventative care and screenings to immunizations and well checks, she ensures patients get the care and support they need. She treats a wide range of illnesses from the common cold, COVID, and flus to sore throats, ear infections, and stomach aches. She also helps patients with chronic illnesses and diseases such as migraines, diabetes, high blood pressure, anemia and more. Trained in osteopathic manipulation therapy, Dr. North welcomes new patients and offers alternatives to many kinds of traditional care.

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Dr. North-Scott joins Drs. Michelle Cosse’, Reagan Elkins, Tommy Gould, Amanda Lea & Kimberly Meiners at Lane Family Practice.

“I love helping every member of a family. Their health means everything to me.”

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I was baptized! I’m telling you, there’s something there!) When Gernon mentioned an opportunity for future Wine Club members to shoelessly participate in the winemaking process, I immediately saw myself in a stomp-by-stomp recreation of comedy’s most famous grape obliteration. If it so happens that I misheard him about this amenity, I will have some ‘splainin’ to do. Gernon waved his arms towards the fields to show me where each fruit would one day bloom: a front row of muscadine will be pluckable for visitors (“You can make jelly, or just eat it. It’s a superfood!”) while blueberries run amok on “Thrill Hill,” so named for another homegrown treasure, Fats Domino. Other grapes include Lenoir, also called Black Spanish (“for our pink program—we’ll use it to make rosé”), Blanc Du Bois, four recently-released hybrids from California, and six varieties of muscadine. The farm will grow mayhaws and pawpaws, crab apples and persimmons, and even one day pears, for cider and wine blends. A winding path behind the taproom is ornamented with native plants, to attract butterflies, hummingbirds, and bees. “Blueberries and bees are like peanut butter and jelly,” said Gernon. Bees will pollinate the blueberries, and honey from future hives will drip into some future Wild Bush blends. “We’ll be infusing fruit wines and grape wines, too,” said Gernon. “There’s going to be a lot of experimentation here.”

Sunsets and Sunrises

Pontchartrain Vineyards’ devotees needn’t worry: the concerts will continue. The former vineyard’s Jazz ‘n the Vines series has drawn crowds to the gently rolling hills for spring and fall concerts for twenty-three years. In April, Wild Bush welcomed Amanda Shaw, while May brings The Tin Men and Mia Borders. And if you come to Wild Bush and can’t bear to leave (or can’t drive home)? Tents are available to glamp among the grapes. The next day, head into the taproom to see what’s fresh. A pet-nat (petillant naturel, naturally sparkling) from muscadines? A Wicket Piquette labeled with the large paws of Gernon’s 120-lb. catahoula, Jughead? It’s an ever-changing process, one that invites adventurous drinkers. “We plan on this being an open door to people who are interested in learning and participating in making the best wines Louisiana’s ever had.” Gernon said he’ll have something for every palate, “But really we’re doing things more traditionally. We’re the older school of thought.” h

wildbushfarmandvineyard.com

M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

Neil Gernon and his wife Monica Bourgeois are the new owners of the Northshore’s longstanding Pontchartrain Vineyards—now called Wild Bush Farm and Vineyard.

WE CAN CARE FOR YOU. BUT ONLY YOU CAN TELL US WHO YOU CARE FOR.

Half of your healthcare is in the stories you share with us. Because before you’re a patient, you’re a person – and what you’re thinking, feeling, and hoping for can help us to personalize your recovery and improve your outcome. ololrmc.com/WeListenWeHeal

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L I T E R AT U R E

Tennessee in New Orleans

WHERE ONE OF THE GREATEST PLAYWRIGHTS OF THE 20TH CENTURY FOUND A HOME By Alexandra Kennon

homas Lanier Williams III was born in Columbus, Mississippi in spring of 1911. But it was in the late 1930s, after his first stint in New Orleans’ French Quarter, that he became the enduringly-beloved playwright “Tennessee” Williams. Upon his first arrival, Williams mused in his journal, “Here surely is the place that I was made for, if any

in bars ranging from the upscale Hotel Monteleone to the more bohemian and gay-friendly Bourbon House Bar; all of which no doubt provided inspiration for his plays and personal life. “I think it helped him come to comfort with who he was, and also provided constant inspiration.” Williams first arrived in New Orleans in late December 1938 at the age of twenty-seven. After attending three universities, he had finally graduated earlier

place on this funny old world.” New Orleans’ uninhibited bohemian-ness offered a stark contrast to Williams’ strict Episcopalian upbringing in Columbus and later St. Louis, Missouri and allowed him the liberation to more deeply explore his own personality and imagination. “I think he felt free here. Discovered freedom here, discovered himself,” said Dylan Jordan, Interpretation Assistant at the Historic New Orleans Collection (HNOC), who also curated a French Quarter walking tour as part of the exhibition Backstage at a Streetcar Named Desire. “People say that he came to New Orleans as Tom and then transformed himself into Tennessee; that he kind of discovered his sexuality and passion for life here.” Williams’ life and work were characterized by his restlessness and frequent Courtesy of the Historic New Orleans Collection desire for new location; changes in scene. Though his itiner- that year with a B.A. from the University ant tendencies continued until his 1983 of Iowa, with middling grades (some B’s death in a New York City hotel room, and C’s, with an F in technical theatre), his journals and letters reveal a particular and found himself in the French Quarfondness for the Crescent City; he writes ter in time to celebrate the New Year. He of it with a quality of home. documented his immediate impression “I think New Orleans was an agent of the city in a letter to his mother the that helped him be okay with who he day after he first arrived, on the evening was,” posited Mark Cave, Senior Histo- of December 29, with the opening line: rian at the HNOC and curator of Back- “This is most fascinating place I’ve ever stage at A Streetcar Named Desire. “Plus been.” interacting with people, all sorts of peoA few days later, on January 2, 1939, he ple. I think that that was inspiring to elaborated on this thought—highlighthim. I lived in the Quarter before, and ing, from the perspective of the twenit’s like being in this sort of social pin- ty-first century reader, both similarities ball machine. You just kind of bounce and changes that have occurred in New from conversation to conversation and Orleans in the more than eighty years person to person. And I think that was since he penned his impressions: very, very good fuel for his writing.” I’m crazy about the city. I walk continCave also pointed out that while living in ually, there is so much to see … The QuarNew Orleans, Williams would hang out ter is really quainter than anything I’ve 38

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seen abroad—in many homes, the original atmosphere is completely preserved. Today being a holiday, I visited Audubon Park, which is lovelier than I could describe, blooming like summer with Palm Trees and live-oaks garlanded with Spanish Moss, beautifully laid out. Also visited the batture-dwellers (squatters) along the river, and, for contrast, the fine residential district and the two universities, Loyola and Tulane. The latter appears to be a splendid school—it was closed today so I’m going to

make another visit. The Quarter is alive with antique and curio shops where some really artistic stuff is on sale, relics of Creole homes that have gone to the block. I was invited to dinner Sunday by some people who own a large antique store. Their home is a regular treasure chest of precious objects. Food is amazingly cheap. I get breakfast at the French market for a dime. Lunch and dinner amount to about fifty cents at a good cafeteria near Canal Street. And the cooking is the best I’ve encountered away from home. Raw oysters, twenty cents a dozen! Shrimp, crab, lobster, and all kinds of fish—I have a passion for sea-food which makes their abundance a great joy. The courtyards are full of palms, vines and flowering poinsetta, many with fountains and wells, and all with grill-work, balconies, and little winding stairs. It is heaven for painters and you see them work-

ing everywhere. Mr. and Mrs. Heldner (Alice Lipp-mann’s friends) say that if I get desperate I can earn bread as a model—but I trust something better will turn up. Like many young, struggling artists at that time and today, part of New Orleans’ appeal for Williams was its affordable cost of living. He mused on the Quarter’s fluidity of class in a letter to his grandmother shortly after his arrival: I hope you will like the Vieux Carré. It is a very heterogenous neighborhood. Some very wealthy people live next door to some who are destitute— it is all mixed up. The atmosphere is pretty Bohemian but it is perfectly safe to walk around by yourself, even at night. If you like quaint old places you ought to enjoy it. He told his mother in the January 2, 1939 letter that his present money is “holding out pretty good,” and that he will write before he depletes it and provide a more permanent mailing address. Williams ended up staying in the Crescent City for a stint of seven weeks that first visit, living in an attic apartment at 722 Toulouse Street, which he once referred to as “a poetic evocation of all the cheap rooming houses of the world,” and would provide extensive fodder for his New Orleans-set plays, especially his 1970s play Vieux Carré. “He only lived there for a matter of weeks, but it was during that period that he first kind of fell in love with the city, and met people and had experiences that would inform his writing for the rest of his life,” said Jordan, whose walking tour on Williams’ life in the Quarter begins at 722 Toulouse, which belongs to the HNOC today. Williams’ landlady during his tenure on Toulouse, Mrs. Anderson, would be a particular source of inspiration—providing the basis for the harsh landlady character Mrs. White in Vieux Carré. Together, she and Williams opened a restaurant downstairs called Quarter Eat Shop, which they ran for around a week, and for which Williams coined the phrase “Meals for a Quarter in the Quarter”. Williams made up flyers featuring the phrase and wrote that he would pass them out in the street before rushing back inside to wait tables. I serve as

Tennessee Williams’ first home in New Orleans is identified by a plaque. photographed by Alexandra Kennon Tennessee Williams (left) with his partner Panwaiter, cashier, publicity cho Rodriguez y Gonzalezin Jackson Square, ca. manager, host—in fact, 1945. (The Fred W. Todd Williams Collection at the Historic New Orleans Collecction) Courtesy of every possible capacity, THNOC. including,sometimes, dishwasher. When not busy in the dining-room I stand on the sidewalk and try to drag people upstairs! It really is a great deal of fun. Once, Anderson was said to have poured boiling water through the floorboards of an upper apartment when she was displeased with the volume of another tenant’s party downstairs. (The landlady has had a hard time adjusting herself to the Bohemian spirit of the Vieux-Carré, Williams explained to his mother.) Williams was called into court as a witness of the event and wrote of being in the tight predicaWhile in California in 1939, Williams ment of determining how to be honest won awards from the Group Theatre without offending his landlady. Mrs. for two one-act plays he submitted for a Anderson said she did not pour the water, competition under the name Tennessee but I, being under oath, could not per- Williams—his first time using the pseudjure myself—the best I could do was say I onym. In some of his more intimate and thought that it was highly improbable that friendly letters sent thereafter, he signed any lady would do such a thing! simply, “10”. After an eventful first few weeks in The following year in 1940, Williams’ New Orleans, and a failed attempt to play Battle of Angels was produced in secure work with the WPA Writers’ Boston; critics and audiences deemed it Project there, he accepted a ride west for a major flop. “He moved back after the California with saxophonist Jim Par- Battle of Angels premiere, which was really rott, whom he had befriended. Williams bad,” Jordan said, “So he came here to wrote his mother from the road, We relax and try to rejuvenate, but he was delayed our departure till Monday to see a very poor.” Upon Williams’ return to the little of the Mardi Gras—two days of it was city in 1941, he wrote to his friend Paul quite enough. Bigelow, My second New Orleans period is // M A Y 2 2

“There Was a Streetcar Called Desire,” ca. 1947 or 1948; gelatin silver print phtoograph by Joseph Woodson “Pops” Whitesell. Courtesy of THNOC.

under way—the Quarter has cleaned up and become smart, respectable, and expensive so I have located in another part of town. During this “second New Orleans period” Williams first rented an apartment near Lee’s Circle, purchased himself a bike for ten dollars, and delighted in the constant stream of sailors he was able to clandestinely invite in and seduce via a discreet back door. (A misunderstanding about some sailors who come in occasionally to discuss literature with me provoked a tedious little quarrel with the landlady… Williams would write to Bigelow.)

He later purchased a membership to the New Orleans Athletic Club, which is mentioned by Mitch in A Streetcar Named Desire, and wrote of it to Bigelow: I got reckless and invested half my cheque in this rather exclusive Club, but it is worth it as there is a marvelous salt water pool, Turkish baths, Etc., and the prettiest Creole belles in town. I am already well-established in their circles and my particular intimate is a Bordelon, one of the oldest families in the city. Such delicate belles you have never seen, utterly different from the northern species. Everybody is ‘Cher!’—I actually pass for ‘butch’ in comparison and

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am regarded as an innovation—the ‘Outdoor type’! And am consequently enjoying a considerable success…‘Chere,’ I have a room on Royal, right opposite the gay bar—The St. James, so I can hover like a bright angel over the troubled waters of homosociety. In 1943, the same year his sister Rose was lobotomized, Williams worked as a scriptwriter for MGM, which he did not seem to find particularly rewarding, and spent that summer working on a screenplay titled The Gentleman Caller that would eventually be produced in Chicago the following year as The Glass Menagerie. In 1945 The Glass Menagerie was produced in New York. Williams responded to his first major success in the same way he reacted to the failure of Battle of Angels: by returning to his spiritual home of New Orleans. Arriving back in the French Quarter in 1945, Williams was clearly disillusioned by the glamour of the New York theatre scene: Broadway seems like some revolting sickness, that involves vomiting and eating and shitting all at once. Now equipped with money and notoriety, he was giddy to be back in New Orleans, as he indicated in this letter to his agent Aubrey Wood in early January of 1946: If you can imagine how a cat would feel in a cream-puff factory you can imagine my joy at being back in the Quarter. It was always my particular milieu but I was never here before with money! Now I can afford a place where the windows are all doors twelve feet-high with shutters,

and a balcony looking out on the negro convent and the back of the cathedral. I never put on a shirt, just a leather jacket, I go unshaven for days and nobody says, Look at that bum, they say, That is the fellow who wrote The Glass Menagerie! It is during this period living at 710 Orleans Street, when Williams was in close proximity to St. Louis Cathedral and the Sisters of the Holy Family Convent (the first convent for Black women in America, founded by Henriette Delille), that he began writing Poker Night, which would become A Streetcar Named Desire. His proximity to the Cathedral works its way into the play, like in Blanche’s line upon hearing the bells chime: “Those cathedral bells—they’re the only clean thing in the Quarter.” Williams’ character Blanche’s experience in the Quarter also allegedly reflects Williams’ own—such as when she purchases paper lanterns on Bourbon Street to cover Stanley’s exposed lightbulb, to avoid being in direct light. Williams is said to have purchased paper lanterns himself at Honey Gee’s Oriental Gift Shop in the 600 block of Bourbon Street, at the time when there was a bustling China Town neighborhood within the French Quarter. By the end of 1946, Williams moved to 632 1/2 St. Peter Street, where he would complete Streetcar. “From both of those locations [632 1/2 St. Peter and 710 Orleans], you could probably see and hear the streetcar named Desire going

A single page from an early manuscript version of A Streetcar Named Desire, 1946–1947; typescript. (The Fred W. Todd Tennessee Williams Collection at the Historic New Orleans Collection. Courtesy of THNOC.

down Royal Street,” noted Cave. Another key influence upon Streetcar pulled straight from Williams’ life on St. Peter Street was his lover at the time, working-class New Orleanian Pancho Rodriguez y Gonzales. In letters from this period, Williams regularly wrote of he and Gonzales’s “quarrels”—such as in December of 1946: Pancho and I made up after another silly misunderstanding. He

thinks I have other boys. Alas, I barely have energy for one! “Williams and Gonzales had a very volatile relationship,” Jordan said, noting that Gonzales was said to be insecure around Williams’s artistic and literary friends. “It informed the tone of the play. And in many ways, he’s sort of the prototype for Stanley.” In one particular incident, Gonzales and Williams are said to have had a fight, after which Gonzales broke all of the light bulbs—a scene that makes its way into Streetcar when Stella tells Blanche that Stanley, “smashed all the lightbulbs with the heel of my slipper… actually, I was sorta

thrilled by it.” In March of 1947, Williams journaled about Gonzales, writing: It looks like P. and I may have reached the hour of parting—He has been increasingly tempermental [sic]. He quit his job. Is crazily capricious. I still care for him but right now I feel a hunger for peace above all else…. ‘Poker Night’ [Streetcar] finished. A relative success, not pleasant but well-done. I think it

will make good theatre, though its success is far from assured. Today, as A Streetcar Named Desire celebrates the seventy-fifth anniversary since its Broadway premiere having garnered a Pulitzer Prize, multiple Tony Awards and Tony Award-winning revivals, a film adaptation that earned a dozen Academy Awards, and a secure place in the canon of America’s most influential plays of all time—it is safe to say that it transcended far beyond the “relative success” Williams modestly anticipated. Williams’ work is beautiful in the same way New Orleans is beautiful: sensitive, complex, gritty, and perfectly-imperfect. The French Quarter offered Williams an old-world beauty tempered with seediness and flaws, reminiscent of his characters like Blanche and Catherine. Williams’ plays offer audiences no sterilized sets or sugar-coated love stories—instead they depict the world as he saw it truly; a place simultaneously rough and awful, with sincere and striking moments of humanity and loveliness piercing through. That dynamic world of Williams’ imagination, which continues to endure and captivate audiences and readers across the globe today, was born of his experiences in the French Quarter. The Crescent City left an indelible mark on Williams and his literature. In turn, the cultural landscape of New Orleans— even today, more than seventy-five years later—remains undeniably richer for Williams having once chosen it for his

home. h Backstage at A Streetcar Named Desire will be on display at the Historic New Orleans Collection until June 3, and walking tours will take place May 25 and June 22. The tour is also available via the HNOC’s mobile app by searching “French Quarter Tours” in the App Store. In addition to the information provided by Mark Cave and Dylan Jordan at the HNOC in interviews, the following books were utilized in research for this article: Williams, Tennessee. The Selected Letters of Tennessee Williams, Volume I: 1920-1945. Edited by Albert J. Devlin and Tischler Nancy Marie Patterson. New Directions Pub., 2000. Williams, Tennessee. The Selected Letters of Tennessee Williams, Volume II: 1945-1957. Edited by Albert J. Devlin and Tischler Nancy Marie Patterson. New Directions Pub., 2007. Williams, Tennessee. Notebooks. Edited by Margaret Bradham Thornton. Yale University Press, 2006. Williams, Tennessee. Memoirs. New Directions Pub., 2006.

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P I C K A P E TA L

Nightshade Flower Farm BECCA GREANEY’S BLOOMING ON RABBITS STREET Story by Chris Turner-Neal • Photos by Brei Olivier

t’s hard to do better than “near the corner of Abundance and Rabbits” as the location for a farm. On a third gof an acre in this out-of-the-way corner in New Orleans, farmer Becca Greaney is embarking on her second growing year at Nightshade Flower Farm. There’s no building at the address, just a number painted on a wooden fence in a cheery sky blue. Nightshade sits on a leased T-shaped footprint made of three lots meeting in the center. It’s not the showy landscape of blossoms you might expect: the farm instead offers expectation, as leaves and vines spill over mounds of dirt and early or late blossoms hint at their crops. Greaney and her workforce of apprentices and volunteers time their harvests to give customers blooms that 42

will flourish and endure in their vases. As she showed me around, Greaney code-switched between the Latin and common names of her plants, doubling the poetry: a forget-me-not can also be a Mysosotis, Latin via Greek for mouse-ear. An open structure of clear plastic called a “hoop house” sits near the vertex of the lots, protecting fussy dahlias and other plants that benefit from more cautious care; a few yards away, a smaller greenhouse shades seedlings. Fruit trees dot the perimeter, including the two largest loquat trees I’ve ever seen. Greaney offered me my first of the year. Greaney explained that she plants according to “ultramicroclimates”— rather than fighting the inevitable drainage problems, she plants moisture-lov-

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ing species along miniature swales and makes use of the extra water to nourish sugarcane and irises. Detailed spreadsheets of what she has planted where help to maximize growing windows in spring, early summer, and fall. Summer is dedicated to food and restorative crops, when the tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants feed Greaney and her friends—the occasional excess taking the place of her flowers at farmer’s markets. In addition to their use as nourishment, the greens, called cover crops, also replenish certain nutrients in the soil, enriching it for the fall flower season. This summer “food season” allows Greaney to return to her roots as a vegetable farmer. She began interning on farms as a Tulane undergraduate before

embarking on an Americorps stint at Press Street Gardens and a subsequent position at Sprout NOLA, where she still works part time as a greenhouse manager. Nightshade was born as a result of Greaney’s mentor at Sprout, Margee Green, advising that flower farming was a more financially sustainable option (one is tempted to blame the low-veg American diet). One year in, Greaney is still figuring out the intricacies of what flower-shoppers want: “Last year people were buying anemones, but not this year.” She knows what pleases most people: bright, bold colors and a variety of textures. (More people touch the flowers than you’d think.) Greaney sells both to florists and directly to the public at farmers’ mar-

Saturday, June 4th, 2022

kets, in addition to occasional work providing flowers for events like weddings. At the markets, she sells both straight bunches—meaning clusters of the same flowers—and artfully-assembled bouquets, into which she sometimes throws in a sprig of kumquat or a tomato-plant accent. The strange economics of the industry mean she earns more selling by bunch to local florists, but the bouquets are important as “calling cards” showcasing what she can produce and arrange. (Also, she enjoys making them and does it well—good enough reasons in themselves.) In some ways, Greaney and other small flowers producers are competing with big growers, both here and abroad, but with a little research and know-how,

she has been able to fill niches the heavy hitters can’t. (As a certified florist herself, Greaney is well positioned to look under the hood of the industry.) For example, sunflowers aren’t very picky and travel well: florists can buy as many as they want from a big producer and usually don’t need to source them locally. (Sunflowers will fly off the shelf at a farmer’s market, though.) More delicate flowers like dahlias are more likely to bruise or wilt in transit, and so the best ones come from just up the road. Additionally, smaller flower growers like Greaney have the latitude to take a risk and grow something simply because it’s weird or cool. She showed me a stand of false Queen Anne’s lace, which forms umbrella-shaped bells of small white blossoms

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Artistry of Light By Mary T. Wiley on green sprigs, then pulled out her phone to show me a starflower: orderly bolls of tan and green bracts, charmingly alien. Urban farming has a longer history in general and in New Orleans than its recent trendiness would imply. Before Clarence Birdseye froze his peas and markets became supersized, people used their yards to garden, growing what they could to supplement their diets and trade with their neighbors. Today, Greaney and other New Orleans growers with small batches or irregular production cycles share a farmer’s-market stall called Truck Farm Table, which is run by Sprout—find them at the Thursday market where the Lafitte Greenway intersects Norman C. Francis (formerly Jeff Davis).

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On my way out, I asked to buy some flowers, and Greaney pulled bunches of maroon ranunculus and bright poppies from her buckets. She told me that to keep cut flowers around longer, I should invest in flower food, change the water every other day, and recut the ends of the stems—otherwise, bacteria will grow in the water and clog the transport channels in the stems, which continue to work even after the flower is cut. At stoplights on the way home, I brought the bouquet to my face for a sniff of the spicy-citrus ranunculus—a preview of arriving spring. h nightshadefarmflowers.square.site

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curated niche experiences organized around a product, a place, or a cause. And, in Louisiana, it can also be a fun way to support and celebrate local businesses. Check out these seven locally-created and -curated subscription boxes, dropping custom care packages on their customers’ porches on the reg. (Pro tip: These also make great Mother’s Day Presents!)

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Photo courtesy of The Camellia Bean Krewe.

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ne of the great enduring pleasures of online shopping, even beyond its hconvenience, is the joy of coming home to a package on the doorstep. hWhether it be a pair of shoes or a bottle of toilet cleaner, for a minute it is just a box—a symbol of consumerism and nostalgia that combines in a potent surge of serotonin. Over the last decade, one of the more innovative ways businesses have maximized the power of this effect is through the subscription box. Extending the sentimentality of opening a present to yourself, subscription boxes offer wholly-

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Just launched in February, the Camellia Bean Krewe subscription box was created by Camellia Brand as a way to share the spirit of New Orleans cuisine via America’s oldest dried bean company. In its first Spring Box of goodies, Camellia sent out a package of its signature Red Kidneys and a package of its Great Northerns—along with boxes of Cajun White Bean Seasoning and Creole Red Bean Seasoning, setting you up for a Monday night to look forward to. As a bonus: a cute canvas bag and a signature Camellia Bean Krewe parade throw. Future boxes, delivered quarterly for $39.95 per box, promise surprises of classic and heirloom beans, specialty ingredients (sometimes delivered before they are available to the general public), exclusive access to recipes and discounts, and other “lagniappe” items.

Subscribe by May 15 to get the Spring Camellia Bean Krewe Box as your first box; on May 16, you can sign up to receive the Summer Box. shop.camelliabrand.com

Anchor of Hope Box Originally founded by Adrienne McCann in North Carolina in 2015, the Anchor of Hope Box is a monthly subscription that employs women all across the globe who are refugees and survivors of human trafficking. After partnering with the business for some time, earlier this year Baton Rouge’s Rebecca Gardner, owner of The Hope Shop, took over the Anchor of Hope Box, and is now running it as a sister business to her nonprofit Hands Producing Hope. Anchor of Hope partners with organizations around the world that provide ethical

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work opportunities to women in vulnerable situations. Each box ($32–$36 per month) contains three products handmade by these women; the items ranging from jewelry and home goods, to ceramics and artwork, to exotic spices and more. Each product is accompanied by an information card that gives details about the products and the artisans who make them. Through its association with Hands Producing Hope, often these women include refugees who are currently living and working in Baton Rouge.

Subscribe by May 14 to get the May Anchor of Hope Box; or by June 14 to receive the June box. Use the code COUNTRYROADS to receive 15% off your first order. anchorofhopebox.com

Lagniappe Box Created in 2016 by Meredith Waguespack and Sarah Guidry, owners of Sweet Baton Rouge and Local Supply, the Lagniappe Box partners with other Louisiana businesses to send out a distinctly local collection of goods every month. Waguespack curates each box according to a seasonal theme (March’s, for instance, was Crawfish Season, and included a Sweet Baton Rouge “Corn & Potatoes” tee, a crawfish-decaled glass by Moneauxs, a bag of “Boiled Crawfish”-flavored Cajun Pop, and crawfish-shaped earrings from New Orleans jewelry artist Isabelle De Joya Vea). Each box ($37–$45) contains five or more products made exclusively by Louisiana small businesses, including a first-access Sweet Baton Rouge tee in each box. For folks who prefer to choose their own adventure, the Lagniappe box can also be customized thanks to a new Build Your Own Box option—from which customers can select their own Sweet Baton Rouge tee shirt or shirts, along with a selection of Louisiana-made products offered from the Local Supply curated gift shop.

Subscribe soon to receive the June Lagniappe Box, and keep an eye out for the soon-to-launch quarterly option—which kicks off with the July Game Day Lagniappe Box, available until July 22. sweetbatonrouge.com/pages/lagniappe-box

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Free Your Tea The distinct pleasure of sipping specialty tea found an apostle in New Orleans entrepreneur Knud Berthelsen, who founded his personalized tea subscription service in 2017. Sourcing loose tea leaves from all over the globe, Berthelsen has found a way to deliver the “magic brewed between people over a pot of tea” straight to people’s doorsteps. After asking about your tea preferences (with caffeine or without, iced or hot), the service starts you off with a set of samples to try. After rating them on the Free Your Tea website, your next delivery will include two 2 oz. packages of tea tailored to your taste. Shipping is free, and the service offers deliveries both monthly and quarterly, with various payment options at rates ranging from $15 per box to $25.

Subscribe for your personalized subscription at freeyourtea.com, and use the code COUNTRYROADS to receive a 10% discount on your order.

Cajun Crate Born from the desire of Louisiana transplants’ longing for a taste of home, this Cajun care package is all about Louisiana-made food products, especially those that can’t be found anywhere else. Curated by locals, each month the box features seven or more products from businesses large and small, along with recipes and product guides to ensure you’re making the most of your groceries. A must for anyone who has had to move out of the Bayou State, but a treat for locals, too—the Cajun Crate is a great way to keep up with the latest endeavors of local chefs and entrepreneurs and to keep your cooking skills in check. Prices range from $36–$39 per month depending on payment schedule.

Subscribe to receive the monthly Cajun Crate subscription box at cajuncrate.com, and use the code CountryRoads to receive 30% off of your order.

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Cuisine

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Soul Fusion Natchez

AT THE NATCHEZ HERITAGE SCHOOL OF COOKING, CHEF AND FOUNDER JARITA FRAZIER-KING IS BUILDING COMMUNITY AROUND FOOD Story by Lauren Heffker • Photos by Taylor Cooley

he signature dish of Natchez chef and community activist Jarita Frazier-King—black eyed pea and collard green fritters topped with a sweet and spicy chili sauce—contains much more than its pan-fried cornmeal contents. It’s also a story, a memory, resilience and struggle. Southern soul food is built on dishes like this, what Frazier-King describes as “hard times food,” cheap and filling and borne out of necessity and her ancestors’ ingenuity. Through the Natchez Heritage School of Cooking, which Frazier-King founded in 2017, she shares the story of a place and her own within it, providing layered and little-known historical context on the origins of traditional Southern foodways. Frazier-King focuses on the African diaspora, including the enslaved people who worked on the plantations in Natchez and throughout the South, which is inextricably tied to her own family history. “We teach people about the roots and history of soul food dishes, particularly what we call “‘classic cuts’ of soul food,” said Frazier-King, “and how the African 50

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Americans and Native Americans influenced most of the food that we eat here in the South, the same food we eat today.” This cuisine is known for its down-home authenticity, generational legacy, and above all, objective classification as “comfort food,” and beloved for all the same reasons. Frazier-King was raised in the kitchen, having spent the majority of her formative years watching her mother and grandmother cook for anyone and everyone who came through their front door—learning the ways in which feeding people was its own kind of love language. When her time came, she would prepare food in just the same way. Her grandmother, Beulah Fitzgerald, was born one of fourteen children, so Frazier-King grew up around a dinner table crowded with cousins. “I’ve been standing up on a stool cooking since I was five years old,” she said. Frazier-King’s family roots run deep in Natchez, the oldest documented settlement on the Mississippi River. An eighth-generation Natchez matriarch, the mother of three can trace her lineage all the way back

to the original union that spurred countless Creole descendants. In fact, Frazier-King’s family tree is on display at the Natchez Museum of African American History and Culture. The museum preserves the cultural and historical contributions of African Americans to the growth of Natchez, from its inception to present day. “I like to say, it’s like stories on a plate, because it’s a more meaningful experience,” said Frazier-King. “I want everybody to share the same experience I had growing up whenever they come here.” The heritage school is wholly a family endeavor—Frazier-King works almost exclusively with immediate and extended family members to help put on the week’s workshops and heritage tours, fulfill catering orders for private events, and serve local customers at their burgeoning pop-up restaurant, Soul Food Fusion Natchez. Upon earning both her bachelor’s and master’s degrees from Alcorn State, the historically Black university in nearby Lorman, Mississippi, Frazier-King went back to work for her alma mater managing its community out-

reach nutrition program. While visiting dozens of counties across the state, she would strike up conversations with community elders and church women about how they prepared their own recipes. She realized the health issues in Mississippi aren’t about the ways that we eat; they’re about the ways that we prepare our food. The heritage school was the result of digging deeper into her inheritance, asking why we do things a certain way, how certain dishes came to occupy a place on their table. “It Chef Jarita Frazier-King teaching at the Natchez Heritage School of Cooking. was difficult for them to modify those meals. And it was because that’s all is considered classic Southern cuisine, June 17–19, with three distinct events– that they knew, that’s the way they were and how that differs from their historical Blues, Brews, and BBQ; White Linen taught and that’s the way it’s always been use in Black kitchens. Frazier-King con- Night; and Lazy Magnolia Brunch. Prodone. I realized that was a part of our cul- cludes the class by sending each partici- ceeds from the festival benefit the Southture. So I said, you don’t have to just treat pant home with a wooden spoon and an west Wellness Association of Mississippi, them for the health component of it, we endearing request—to pass down their which Frazier-King founded in 2018. The had to treat the culture.” own traditions. nonprofit organization focuses on comTo Frazier-King, the solution seemed The Soul Food Fusion Festival grew munity health outreach and economic reobvious; it’s the reason why her heritage out of this philosophy, of strengthening source development, and provides meals cooking classes follow a nontraditional community around Mississippi’s culi- to seniors in need, as well as community format: storytelling. Through a series of nary traditions and their Black origins. wellness checks and food safety and hossample dishes and demonstrations fol- Frazier-King organized the inaugural pitality training to at-risk youth, re-entry lowed by a sit-down meal, she tells the festival in 2019 to provide a culinary and adults, and recovering addicts—helping story of Southern and African-American cultural experience that celebrates the cu- them secure positions in the workforce. food, along with her family’s own Afri- linary heritage of Natchez, the origins of The Soul Food Fusion Fest and Hercan-American and Native American cu- traditional soul food, and the Bluff City’s itage School of Cooking, along with the linary heritage. She traces the oral history rich diversity. Held in downtown Nat- occasional catering gig, are under the of foods like black-eyed peas and collard chez, the festival invites people from all Soul Fusion Natchez umbrella, which greens, corn bread, and red beans from walks of life to sit and dine together at a Frazier-King has recently expanded to the motherland to the mainland, and ex- block-long white linen communal table. include a patio bar and grill. Soul Fusion amines how they became staples of what This year’s festivities will take place on Natchez operates out of the same build-

ing as her cooking classes, open for dinner and late nights on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. It’s not just the Natchez community which has noticed the impact of Frazier-King’s efforts. She has been recognized by the James Beard Foundation for her vision of uniting Mississippians through food, as well as the Museum of Food and Drink in New York City, where she was selected to be part of the museum’s Legacy Quilt Project, a facet of its current exhibition African/American: Making the Nation’s Table, which explores the impact of African American contributions to America’s culinary identity. Frazier-King was also part of a short documentary film produced by Southern Foodway Alliances, Soul of the Kitchen, which takes the viewer into the kitchens of three generations of Black women in Natchez amid preparations for the annual Juneteenth celebration. h

Keep up with Frazier-King’s projects and upcoming programming through the Natchez Heritage School of Cooking on Facebook. And find tickets to the 2022 Soul Food Fusion Festival at bontempstix.com.

Yo u A R E Powerful!

But if you need us, we’re here for you!

Visit www.Lafasa.org to find local resources and free support and materials.

Have you experienced sexual harm or know someone who has? Contact LaFASA’s free & anonymous helpline to have your questions answered or if you need someone there for you.

Connect with a support specialist: Text-225.351.(SAFE) 7233 Chat-lafasa.org or Talk-888.995.7273

This project was supported by Grant No. 15JOVW-21-GG-00706-MUMU awarded by the Office on Violence Against Women, U.S. Department of Justice. The opinions, findings, conclusions, and recommendations expressed in this PSA are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of the U.S. De.partment of Justice.

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WELL SEASONED

“Hmm, when you’re cutting bones, like with a chicken,” he said simply. My cooking partner was muralist Ellen RED STICK SPICE SHAKES HOME COOKS LOOSE FROM COMFORT Ogden, whose work Story and photos by Lucie Monk Carter you’ll be familiar with if you’ve visited a Baton Rouge business in the past five years. Her intricate illustrations and splashy way with color bring a customer five steps closer to what a brand wants to be. For the wall of Red Stick Spice’s adjacent SoGo Tea Bar, Milneck hired Ogden to paint the perfect quote from J.M. Barrie’s Peter Pan, “Would you like an adventure now or shall we have our tea first?” Each pair of cooks had a portion of dinner to prepare: the couscous, the roasted carrots, the delicious cauliflower appetizer. Ogden and I whipped up three acidic components (quick pickled shallots and cucumbers, lemon-herb white beans, and chermoula sauce) to balance out the main dish, a salmon spiced with ras el hanout. We were cushioned by the kitchen staff as we shaved down shallots with a mandoline and tossed teaspoons of the shop’s spices into mixing bowls. “I’ll just add in a little more oil,” murmured Lili, leaning over my skillet as it heated for the salmon fillet. “Turn the lemon this way,” said Sammy. “Ah, you weren’t supposed to season the fish in the skillet,” said Lili, as columns of smoke rose from Anne Milneck’s Red Stick Spice has been a haven of artisanal food products in Baton Rouge the pan. for over a decade, and the concept continues to grow and evolve—with additional cooking classes and its recently-opened tea shop, SoGo. Do they make a dunce hat in chef-white? The good news is I was in the right place to climb my way back. e’re long past the ations off the wood laminate floor. statute of limitaSo when Red Stick Spice owner Anne In running her spice shop, Milneck has tions on my cook- Milneck invited me to attend a cook- never minded marketing her savoir in ing failures, so I’ll ing class at the culinary shop’s recently the kitchen. “I’d always lead with ‘I’m give you the worst of it in one giddy expanded teaching kitchen, I was more a chef…’ Essentially, you should just breath: I was laughed out of my par- eager to stand at a high-end stovetop come in here and know that you’re goents’ kitchen when I brought home with a bunch of adults than I was to get ing to make great food when you leave cabbage instead of lettuce; I’ve looked advice. Maybe if I finish my recipe early, here.” But when a customer whispered to for celery seed in the depths of the pro- I can mosey around and help others… duce fridge, dumped a cup of thyme in Our group that early April evening her, “I still make red beans and rice on a chowder, and sent the residents of my comprised area artists and artisans, all Mondays,” Milneck took a step down apartment building down the fire escape different ages and exhibiting various from the mountain. “She was embarwhile attempting corn fritters. Now levels of comfort with knives and gas rassed to say that to me, probably beas the mother of two under five, with ranges. “Is there ever a time you don’t cause of what she’d read about me. I twelve years of avid cooking under my want a sharp knife?” one guest asked the thought, ‘Well, this doesn’t work.’ “We believe in home cooks. We want flour-speckled belt, my more frequent chef-instructor, Matthew Stansbury, as to teach home cooks. Whether it’s in a humiliation is scraping my gourmet cre- he butchered the whole salmon.

Grind Your Own Business

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cooking class, or on the floor. I tell my staff that all the time: you’re going to hear the same question, but remember, it’s unique to that customer. We’re here to solve that problem. And we absolutely can.” In Red Stick Spice’s current location on Jefferson Highway between Government Street and Capital Heights, Milneck envisioned a kitchen where cooks could gather and form a community. “I’ve always wanted to be the Jenni Peters of cooking,” she said, referring to Peters, the owner of Varsity Sports who has made her brand synonymous with running in Baton Rouge, primarily with free group runs in which the joggers wear their Varsity Sports tees and hit the city streets. While cooking requires more gear and ingredients than your typical 5K, Milneck holds out hope that Red Stick Spice can become any cook’s destination—or at least a crucial stop on the way to their own stove. She was approved for a bank loan to expand her teaching kitchen and finally open the tea bar she’s planned for years on the day the governor shut down Louisiana in March 2020. Renovations went ahead. “But my husband (Greg Milneck, owner of DigitalFX) set up a camera rig in the kitchen.” Production companies could rent the space and hang their own cameras and lights. Milneck could take her cooking and cocktail lessons onto Zoom and keep in touch with a customer base who couldn’t come closer than curbside. “I have to give credit to the people in Baton Rouge. The calls and emails that we got … ‘If you would get flour, bread, toilet paper, and milk, we’d buy it from you.’” The teaching kitchen opened properly in October 2020. Milneck and her staff are the primary instructors, but she’s enjoyed expanding the catalog with authenticity in mind, whether it’s Chef Matthew’s sushi workshop—inspired by growing up in the kitchen with his Japanese grandmother—or Paramita Soha’s eye-widening walk through Indian street food. Cardiologist Satish Gadi shares his love of plant-based cuisine, while flamenco guitarist Jim Boitnott takes a break from his day job as an executive at Presonus to teach a masterclass in paella. “To watch the magic in the classroom … that’s what I want. Customers see that person as the one who has lived that food and lived that lifestyle. It’s a different experience.” Milneck has her core customers, women in their fifties or sixties that come to her with their culinary dilemmas; they rely on the spice blends and oils she’s sold for ten years, but trust her suggestions too. With the help of her marketing manager, Chelsey Blankenship, she chases the millennial market, “smart comparison shoppers with busy lives,” who can be reached by appealing to their children and stocking truffle-infused sauces first spied on Instagram.

The tea shop, finally in operation as of earlier this year, lassoes a few demographics at once: its wares calming and crafted, traditional and tasty. SoGo also sells all the glassware, loose tea leaves, and tools you need to keep up the habit at home. But mainly, this tea bar is a reason to linger inside a space designed to boost the enthusiasm of any level of home

cook: chef-approved cookware, fresh spice blends, global condiments, and even Dolce & Gabbana Smeg toasters. (If you hadn’t yet gotten me something for the next six Christmases ...) Let your cup of Vanilla Rooibos steep for five to seven minutes and take a look around. That’s long enough to lift off. h

Anne Milneck, founder and educator at the Baton Rouge culinary instiution, Red Stick Spice.

redstickspice.com In Milneck’s teaching kitchen, pages from her late mother’s cookbooks adorn the walls, an homage to a tradition of educating home cooks passed from one generation to the next. Wallpapering by Kimberly Meadowlark.

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MAY 2022

Culture

54 ONE OF THE BRIGHTEST NONPROFITS

G R E E N L I G H TS

NEW ORLEANS

SMALL STEPS, BIG CHANGE

Light Bulb Ideas

GREEN LIGHT NEW ORLEANS FOSTERS SUSTAINABLE SOLUTIONS IN CRESCENT CITY COMMUNITIES Story by Samantha Eroche • Photos by Alexandra Kennon

Andreas Hoffman founded Green Light New Orleans in 2007 as a means to help rebuild post-Katrina New Orleans in a meaningful, sustainable way.

n a recent Saturday morning, I arrived at Green Light New Orleans (GLNO) on Jeannette Street, dressed for a day of work with a bag of essentials: water, 54

sunscreen, snacks. As I walked up to the front porch, a large group of Phi Alpha Delta fraternity students from Tulane were already gathered there to volunteer as well. We introduced ourselves and chatted while we waited to

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start our work, talking about our favorite snowball and Creole Creamery ice cream flavors, and how Green Light was across from where “the streetcars go to sleep,” which drew a collective “aww.” The sun was warm and the wind

blustery, a perfect fifty-five-degree kind of day to be outside. We soon met Jillian Welsh, Green Light’s volunteer coordinator. Bubbly, energetic, and covered in paint from projects past, she spoke to us about the organization’s history, goals, and impact. Green Light had its humble beginnings in 2007, with founder and executive director Andreas Hoffmann—then a touring musician—who sought out ways to rebuild post-Katrina New Orleans in a meaningful, sustainable way. That’s when he had what he describes as a “light bulb” idea: raise money to purchase CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps, which use gas reactions rather than sheer electricity to produce light, reducing gas emissions) and install them in as many homes as possible to cut down on energy consumption and reduce the city’s carbon footprint. In the process, his band B-Goes became carbon-neutral. “Here we believe that one action repeated over and over again is going to lead to the greater good,” Welsh said. “So, one lightbulb in the beginning saved a little bit of energy. And that didn’t make a big difference, but once we’ve done 28,000 homes, that’s a significant amount of carbon footprint decreased and money saved. You’ve gotta start somewhere.” While Green Light no longer sends volunteers into homes to install light bulbs, residents can still apply to pick up free light bulbs and install them in their own homes through the program. Some participants even request to pick up light bulbs to replace the ones Green Light initially installed years ago. Later, in 2012, GLNO established its backyard vegetable garden program, which allows residents to apply for a free raised garden bed to grow food in their own backyard. Hoffmann noted,

in a later interview, that this was an especially important initiative for families living in “food deserts”—that is, low-income neighborhoods where accessing healthy food is complicated due to financial and transportation challenges. “I think what it comes down to is, if we want to change society, we have to create more energy, food, and water independence for people,” he explained. “When people start to understand that they can grow their own food or that they can find ways to conserve energy or water, then we can solve problems.” Environmental issues are, at their core, social issues. “What became fascinating is that the focus was purely environmental in the beginning, and then once I started implementing the project, I saw how environmental work and community work go hand in hand,” Hoffmann said. In 2015, GLNO began their most active program to date: rain barrel installation. This initiative involves cleaning, sanding, priming, painting, and connecting fifty-pound food grade barrels to residents’ downspouts to catch runoff rainwater. “[We need to] live better with water here,” Welsh explained. “New Orleans gets roughly sixty-four inches of rain a year, and we flood.

New Orleans is also sinking–it’s called subsidence–and so for generations to enjoy New Orleans to come, we have to do something about our water situation now.” Green Light acquires barrels through partnerships with companies such as Zatarain’s and Louisiana Fish Fry, businesses that would normally dispose of barrels in landfills. The goal, Welsh explained, is to rely less on New Orleans’ pump system, which uses a great deal of energy and causes noise pollution. Rain barrels can help homes divert localized flooding as well as serve as a free water source for plants. Additionally, the rain barrels can act as a unique art installation, becoming a source of pride as well as effective advertising for the organization. “We live on a planet with an incredible variety of people,” Hoffmann said, recalling some of the most memorably-painted rain barrels. “I remember once somebody painted a Spongebob barrel, and the applicants couldn’t wait to get it.” After our introduction, Welsh grouped us as rain barrel artists or preppers: I was a prepper.

Not only are GLNO's rain barrels a great way to conserve water in New Orleans, they also serve as art pieces. Photos by Samanta Eroche

Sunday, May 29 at 7PM

BROADWAY’S BEST SERIES Begins Friday, May 13 at 9PM

www.lpb.org

l w.

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to Green Light with her resume, in- designed on the side of the building so terviewed, and now works with the barrels could be stored more easily. Anorganization nine hours a week as other project Fleming and his team are she earns college credit. tackling is installing truegrid, a perAfter about an hour, I took a break meable paving system filled with sand from sanding to tour Green Light’s from Glass Half Full, a local glass recyoffice and talk with other volun- cling company. “It’s a lot like sea glass teers. More barrels, in various stag- that you would find on the beach,” es of completion, lined the walls Welsh said of the material. Rock gravel from floor to ceiling. Small baskets is expensive, but recycled glass is an enof seeds and shirts bearing Green vironmentally and cost-conscious soluLight’s magnolia logo awaited new tion. “Andreas is actually really excitowners on the shelves. Volunteers ed about it. He thinks it could be the assigned as rain barrel artists casu- first time that anyone has ever done it, ally chatted and painted on the sec- so it could set an interesting precedent ond-floor balcony in the beautiful for the New Orleans area,” Fleming spring weather. said. “Our most ambitious idea is that I met Anthony Fleming, an Engi- we want to make an automatic barneering Physics major from Tulane, rel-sanding machine to make the sandGreen Light New Orleans Volunteer Coordinator Jillian Welsh talks with a group of volunteers on a recent spring morning, introducing them to Green Light's work and mission. working with his four group members ing easier,” he said, projecting that the I grabbed several pieces of sandpaper rewarding, too. Camille Grout, a Tu- on their Senior Design Project. They’re machine will be partially completed and got to work roughing up all the lane student interning at Green Light, currently working on several projects as early as by the end of 2022. This is smooth ridges of a barrel. This is an echoed my exact sentiments. “[Volun- for Green Light, but today they were an exciting prospect, considering barimportant step to ensure that prim- teering here is] good for my body and installing a series of shelves they had rel-sanding is the most time-consumer and paint adhere to the barrel later. my mind,” she said. “It’s a As I awkwardly wrestled with sanding great way to wake up. I kind “WHAT BECAME FASCINATING IS THAT THE FOCUS WAS down a fifty-pound food grade barrel, of turn my brain off, but I’m PURELY ENVIRONMENTAL IN THE BEGINNING, AND THEN I got myself covered in the plastic dust also doing something that’s ONCE I STARTED IMPLEMENTING THE PROJECT, I SAW HOW from my efforts, sweating under my actually helpful, something ENVIRONMENTAL WORK AND COMMUNITY WORK GO HAND mask, giving my arms a workout. Vol- important.” Grout said she IN HAND.” —ANDREAS HOFFMAN unteering at Green Light can be hard enjoys interning and that it’s work, but I found it to be incredibly easy to do: she reached out

Get away, the Evangeline Parish way

evangelineparishtourism.org To learn how to book a stay at cabins and campsites in Evangeline Parish, call Elizabeth at (337) 492-0615 or visit us at 306 West Main Street, Ville Platte. 56

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Volunteers at Green Light New Orleans convene every week to assist in sanding and painting rain barrels.

ing volunteer work. GLNO’s impact data speaks for itself. According to the organization’s website, GLNO has installed CFLs, gardens, and rain barrels in over 30,000 households—saving up to $28 million in energy costs. According to GLNO’s return on investment, $4 million of funding has been invested with a return of $28 million in reduced utility costs and $1.5 million in volunteer time received. Additionally, 272 million pounds of carbon dioxide have been offset. There are many ways New Orleans residents can uphold and support Green Light’s mission. It’s easy to go to the website and complete the volunteer application. Volunteers are invited to take part on Tuesday afternoons, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays from 9 am–noon and 1 pm–4 pm, and volunteers can stay for portions of the timeslots if they can’t stay the whole time. Green Light also welcomes groups to come out to volunteer, including K-12 schools, adults with disabilities, companies looking to create bonding experiences for employees, and alternative spring/winter breaks for college students. Residents can also get involved by

contributing small monetary donations. “The more the individual donations can grow, [the program] starts to be owned by the community—that’s a beautiful thing,” Hoffmann said. “It should actually be carried by the community at large.” Additionally, we can all try to live more sustainable lives by replacing concrete paving with permeable paving, planting trees, and creating retention ponds or rain gardens filled with water-loving plants in our backyards. Urban Conservancy can assist with some of these solutions through their Front Yard Initiative. And, of course, New Orleans residents can apply to participate in Green Light’s installation projects: scheduling an appointment to pick up free energy-efficient light bulbs to install in your home or applying to receive a free raised garden bed or rain barrel in your yard. These actions, repeated over and over, will lead to the greater good—for our homes, for New Orleans, and for the planet. h

To learn more about Green Light New Orleans, visit their website at greenlightneworleans.org. // M A Y 2 2

MAY 2022

THREE

DAYS OF QUIET AT COMO

Escapes PLANTATION

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STARS

HOLLOW IN

M E D I TAT I O N

Silence on the River

THE COMO PLANTATION RETREAT OFFERS AN IDYLLIC VENUE FOR SPIRITUAL CONTEMPLATION

Story by Catherine Schoeffler Comeaux • Photos by Glade Bilby

he narrow gravel-and-dirt road to Como Plantation outside of St. Francisville ends at a small bridge over a tree-shrouded creek that runs right into the Mississippi River. Signage directed me to park in a grassy field. It was only fitting that I should begin the three-day silent retreat by leaving behind my mini-van—the embodiment of my busy mom existence these days—trusting I would reach 58

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RETREAT

my destination somehow. Before I could grab my bag, two other women arrived as a gentleman rolled up in a little white truck to offer us a ride. The Como Plantation Retreat has been in the works for several years—a vision that has transformed this historic property into a site for spiritual contemplation for Christians of all denominations. After a successful pilot retreat for men in October 2021, I was joining a small

LOUISIANA

group of women who were invited to a silent retreat in midwinter of early 2022. The experience promised quiet prayer and meditation, guided by a series of lectures called the “Ten Stepping Stones”. I let my bags take the ride, while I elected to walk the rest of the way to the house, imagining what this place had been like two centuries before as the center of a busy riverboat-landing community. Since then, most of the original acreage that made up Como Plantation has been sold or shifted due to the deltaic nature of the Mississippi River, which quietly churned behind me as I headed up the slight hills towards the two-story main house. A variety of pathways presented themselves: old barely visible ones, newly graveled ones, and emerging foot paths. I took the one past the large sweet olive tree, which led towards the sounds of voices and laughter. A group of smiling women greeted me, as they basked in sunlight on the wide porch off the kitchen. The Como Ambassador, a fellow retreatant familiar with the property, led me through the expansive center hallway and showed me to my room. The recently-renovated, late-1800s house offers the modern comforts of private bathrooms, air conditioning, and electricity. Exchanging welcomes and names, we also verified the origin of the house’s title—not a family name, neither Como nor Comeaux, but instead inspired by Lake Como, Italy as the home’s original owner had thought it the most beautiful place in the world. Afterwards, we toured the expansive property, the loess formations of the Tunica Hills offering various hiking paths before plateauing as they approach the riverbank. We passed five wooden cabins, newly built for the retreat experience, where some of the ladies were staying, each with her own porch for contemplative river gazing. Donations of funding and labor have already been lined up to build ten more of these cabins, and there are hopes to eventually see one hundred of them dotting the wooded hills of the property. We paid a visit to the library; two bouncy recliners inviting retreatants to relax, journal, or read; the walls lined with bookshelves soon to be filled. We stopped for a quiet moment in the chapel, original to the property, where the wooden pews reverberate with over a hundred years of praises given in this rustic space. The moment was graciously interrupted by a retreat leader’s gentle urgings to join them for the setting of the sun, as the fiery oranges and pinks backlit a wintery grey tree line on the far side of the river. A semi-circle of empty chairs awaited us at the blacksmith’s shop, an open-air structure near the riverbank, leftover from when a French movie was filmed on location in the 1970s. A warm fire crackled in a bricked pit and two gentlemen fried fish. We shared brief stories of who we are as we watched the sun disappear in a brilliant intersection of sky, woods, and water. Blessing the food, we broke sweet dinner rolls together, enjoyed hot catfish, and marveled at the coleslaw. “Open the eyes of your heart”: with this focus we officially entered the silence we had come for. Beginning that evening, the quiet would only be broken by daily lessons, bird calls, crunching leaves, and the low-chugging hum of barges moving along the river. We meditated on the “heart” as the life-giving muscle, the feed-

er of movements that make up a life; the “eyes” as the gateway to understanding how to make the decisions that will lead to a life of purpose and meaning. With these thoughts in mind, I removed my shoes to quietly mount the wide, wooden staircase leading to my room, where I enjoyed a quick shower and settled into a cozy four-poster bed. I grew up in the Catholic Church, with one foot in the Methodist. Today, I continue to straddle these two denominations with occasional forays into the sacred texts of non-Christian religions, while maintaining a respect for nonbelievers and seekers. The beauty of this retreat’s silence was that I didn’t have to expound on any of this. I was free to listen, learn, and take a break from feeling the need to define or explain myself. Mornings were a time for private prayer, followed by a continental breakfast laid out in the kitchen. Freed from the burdens of small talk, I discovered a certain sense of wonder fostered by the inability to voice the questions continuously coming to mind. Who painted the stencil work on the ceiling? Was that a woodpecker? Why is there an antique clock in a baby bed under the staircase? Steeped in self-reflection, these superficial questions eventually made way for more difficult ones: Am I living a purposeful life? How can I be a better person? Do I really know how to love? A refrain of the Ten Stepping Stones is the message that we are called to have a spirit-to-spirit connection, in which the Holy Spirit communicates with us, guiding us in grappling with these deeper questions. Later that morning, during a lesson, our teacher said something that struck me: what has our attention has our power. I thought of all the nonproductive hours I’ve spent on apps that end up owning a chunk of my day. I found myself nodding in agreement throughout this lesson, resolving to strategize better use of my attention. Then, the teacher said something I disagreed

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with theologically. Frustrated, I wanted desperately to tell her how I thought she was wrong, to change her mind. I wanted to speak out. Instead, after the lesson, I walked down to the river. Silence is humbling. In an earlier lesson we had learned that prayers can be made of our wordless sighs, but in that moment all I had to offer were inner grumblings. I sat on the riverbank and recalled an analogy comparing meditation to watching a river flow, where thoughts come along like barges, and we can let those thoughts float by as we maintain our focus on the river of no-thoughts. I tried it. The river traffic was heavy at that hour as I watched my need to have my opinion heard, my need to correct others, my self-righteous thoughts all pass downstream. There

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Retreatants at Como have the option to stay in cabins on the property. Right now there are five, with ten more on the way. The Master Plan envisions the property to be filled with one hundred of them in the future.

was a bigger force at work, helping me keep the eyes of my heart open and put the inconsequential disagreement in perspective. Walking back towards the house my frustration subsided. Sitting on a blanket of once-golden leaves under a moss-draped gingko tree, I thought of arguments with loved ones I might have avoided if I had embraced such silent consideration ... I was grateful for the generous time allocated for personal prayer and meditation in the retreat’s schedule, as well as the time set aside for journaling, hiking, and resting. The woods offer several short hiking trails to vantage points overlooking the river, passing through a plethora of native flora including palmettos, bamboo, trilliums, and roses— the barrenness of winter revealing the

The chapel at Como is original to the property, and over one hundred years old.

beauty of the exposed trees and thorny vines. The trail up to the future site of the Writer’s Cabin offers a wide view of the river through tall pines. Another path passes through an old family cemetery, and yet another takes you along a ridge to an old cistern which used to provide water to the main house. There is a joy in finding the word “rest” on your schedule after a hike and a fat chicken salad sandwich. One afternoon, I took a solid hour-long nap sprawled out on the front porch like a cat—another blessing of silence was the freedom to avoid excusing myself for such instinctual, perhaps “improper” behavior. On the final day as the sunrise illuminated the bare trees, silence was broken with a feeling of release as we all joined together to sing hymns. We ate break-

fast and I now welcomed the small talk, especially when the Como Ambassador asked us to take home all the leftovers from the previous night’s dinner of smoky pulled pork and perfectly sweet beans. We had one final lesson before we left in which I found myself listening more intently, still quieted from the previous days. I gave thanks for the blessing of being able to silently rest in a beautiful old home near the banks of the powerful Mississippi River with a group of kind, joy-filled women focused on finding purpose and meaning in a life lived for God. h

Find information about future retreats at comoplantationretreat.com.

The open air “blacksmith shop” has been a part of Como since the 1970s filming of La Louisiane, and makes a great riverside dining spot. // M A Y 2 2

Photo courtesy of the Abita Springs Hotel

SMALL TOWN ‘SCAPES

A Bit of Abita

THE BOUTIQUE EXPERIENCE ON THE NORTHSHORE

Story and photos by Jordan LaHaye Fontenot

hat’s in a name? Shakespeare proposed that there was very little—roses and Romeos being what they were, regardless of what we called them. In the twenty-first century though, we’ve got this thing called branding. The Town of Abita Springs has a great name. It’s entrenched in myth, evocative of historical luxury, drenched with charm, and now associated with a popular regional product, to boot. Strolling around the picturesque, endearingly-walkable historic district, the name also lends the neighborhood a delightful sense of harmony. The Abita Brew Pub. The Abita Springs Health Store. The Abita Springs Trailhead Museum. The Abita Springs Café. In a small town like this one (population 2,500), a name functions differently than those of larger 62

cities, such as the conspicuous metropolis across the lake. In Abita Springs, the name means something specific: it points to things locally-owned and inspired, to a coordinated effort to develop community, and to the conscious curation of a specific “Abita” experience. My husband Julien and I recently enjoyed a quick twenty-four-hour stay at the Abita Springs Hotel—which is positioned strategically on Ann O’Brien Lane and the Tammany Trace Bike Trail, just across the town’s central roundabout. Besides a collection of Airbnbs, today the five-room boutique hotel is the only official overnight accommodation in a town that—during the height of its reputation during the early twentieth century as a health resort—once hosted around two thousand visitors every summer. Tourism to Abita Springs declined with

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the end of New Orleans’ yellow fever epidemic and subsequently, the health tourism fad on the Northshore. The rise in the popularity of automobiles also contributed to a fall in tourism to Abita Springs, which had depended on traffic from nearby towns via the East Louisiana Railroad. Rather than succumb to those economic challenges, the village gradually evolved into a new chapter: a quieter, more creative one. The Abita Springs Hotel, opened in 2018 by proprietors Rachel Hudson and Will Preble in a restored 1890s home, is a tribute to Abita Springs’ history as a hospitality wellspring as well as its modern whimsical spirit. Guests enter through the verdant back garden, which is anchored by the hotel’s centerpiece: a small pool fed by the town’s famous artesian aquifer, pouring its “healing waters” forth at five gallons a minute. Encircled

cozily by a wooden fence peeking beneath a lush tangle of flora and fauna, the garden has a fairytale feel to it. A mosaic sidewalk leads to the second floor wraparound porch, where we stayed in the Parlor King Suite, inside the Queen Anne-style home’s turret. Check-in was remote, a door code delivered to my inbox. Despite being enchanted by the exterior of the rosewater-colored cottage, I found myself struck dumb by the luxury of the room’s interior. Gorgeous wooden flooring interacted with mid-century modern light fixtures and furniture in the 700-square foot space, made bright by ample natural light and sunrise-yellow walls. Standing in the sweet little seating area to peer out the windows puts you at a perfect vantage to people-watch over the entire historic district. Taking advantage of the hotel’s com-

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Photo by David Mora, courtesy of the Abita Springs Hotel

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plimentary bikes (there are two and it is first-come-first-serve, but if you miss out there are rentals lined up just outside the gate), we embarked upon the Tammany Trace. If you aren’t already familiar with this Northshore treasure, then let me be the one to enlighten you. An especially beloved element of St. Tammany Parish’s creative placemaking initiatives, the Trace is a thirty-onemile paved multi-use trail that connects Slidell to LaCombe, LaCombe to Mandeville, Mandeville to Abita Springs, and Abita Springs to Covington. The path, which once carried trains traveling from Chicago to New Orleans via the Illinois Central Railroad, is now a wooded nomadic oasis just apart from civilization, with easy access to downtown hubs, the cultural centers that are each town’s trailheads, and Fontainebleau State Park. From the Abita Springs Trailhead,

we caught the last westward leg of the Trace, heading almost four miles towards Covington. We took our sweet time, and on that gorgeously mild St. Patrick’s Day Thursday evening encountered only a handful of fellow bicyclists and runners (a few spiritedly decked out in green-clovered attire). The wildlife was not remotely bothered by our ride, squirrels prancing across the way and birds lending a mellow soundtrack to the journey, azaleas and wisteria and Louisiana Iris just emerging—painting the way with occasional dollops of color. We arrived in Covington just in time to catch the beginning of the Four Unplugged Concert at the Trailhead. Having spent a few years now drafting Country Roads’ calendar of events, I know that some of the Northshore’s most vibrant celebrations and festivals occur at the trailheads of Covington and Abita Springs. It oc// M A Y 2 2

Photo courtesy of the Abita Springs Hotel

curred to me the ease with which locals and visitors can enjoy the cultural offerings in both of these towns via the Trace corridor—I imagined the way one might be able to ride back and forth from a Farmers’ Market in one town to a festival in the other, enjoying the bounty of the Northshore’s natural environs in between. Back at the Trailhead and hungry, we

regretfully passed up the tantalizing-buttery scents of the already-bustling Abita Brew Pub to go clean up before dinner. To satiate ourselves in the meantime, we stopped at Artigue’s Abita Market to gather the ingredients for a hotel charcuterie board and some beers. In a massive nineteenth-century building at the heart of the district, Artigue’s has held court as the village’s only grocery store

for thirteen years now—offering essentials, Louisiana products like Cajun spices and smoked meats, as well as a menu of elevated daily specials (think Abita root beer-and-rum-glazed pork chops with Abita honey and cayenne) prepared by New Orleans’ award-winning Chef Trey Herty. The customer base here is a loyal one. In 2017, when a microbrewery started to

show interest in purchasing the historic building Artigue’s inhabits, members of the town fiercely stepped up for their beloved general store, creating a Facebook Page dedicated to the cause that to this day has 1,200 followers (do the math: that’s half the town), and plastering the hashtag #SaveArtiguesAbitaMarket across the social media spheres. Needless to say, the brewery sought out a home elsewhere, and all these years later it was Mr. Warren Artigue himself who checked us out. After a brief respite in the comforts of our room at the Hotel—including a soak in the swanky claw-foot tub—we set out on foot for dinner at the Brew Pub. The original home of the Southeast’s first craft brewery, the Abita Brew Pub is nestled beside the Trailhead underneath an old-growth oak decked out in fairy lights. Since 1994, when the nationally-recognized Abita Brewing Company outgrew its original building and moved down the road, the Brew Pub has been serving up interpretations of Louisiana comfort food, paired carefully with the entire line of Abita beer. The space is casual and cozy in spirit, with an open-hearted front lawn featuring family-friendly lawn games and a back patio you can rent for private events. We sat at a table inside, relinquishing all remaining travel-induced tension in acquiescence to the dim lighting and cheerful Abita Beer ephemera plastered on the walls. Once we ordered

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M A Y 2 2 // C O U N T R Y R O A D S M A G . C O M

our beers—a Purple Haze for Julien and a Strawgator (the delicate Strawberry golden lager infused with the high-gravity Andygator) for me, we agonized over the menu, with the dilemma: do we go for tried-and-true or do we go for inventive? Namely, in my case: Gouda Burger or Abita Boudin Quail? While deciding, we went ahead and ordered apps: Boudin Egg Rolls and Hot & BBQ Wings. Both lived up to their expectation, especially the savory-sweet egg rolls. While building a mountain of buffalo saucestained napkins, we watched as a waiter carried one of the most beautiful salads we’d ever seen to the table behind us. For our entrées, Julien ordered the Shrimp Agnes, which came out in the form of fried shrimp floating atop a pool of praline-esque honey pecan sauce, served with mashed potatoes and vegetables. I had ultimately decided that anything with the name “Abita” was living up to its name so far and asked for the quail— only to be told they had already sold out for the night. The burger, a substantial chunk of smokey, well-cooked meat, left me with no regrets. I only made it about halfway through, packing up the rest for a post-brewery treat. Because naturally, we couldn’t go to Abita Springs without visiting the brewery! Except—we realized too late—the Abita Brewing Company taproom had already closed for the night that Thursday. Luckily, the Northshore always has a backup brewery on hand—and we

were more than happy for the chance to personnel whose lives are lost in service. try something new, anyway. Chafunkta After Chafunkta, we headed back to Brewing Company is just outside Abita the Abita Springs historic district for a Springs city limits in Mandeville, and nightcap at the eccentric-yet-reliable lohas been serving up small batch beers cal haunt, Rosie’s Tavern. Whiskeys since 2011 when Josh Erickson and his in hand, we settled in at a bar table and wife Jamie decided to make their shared soaked in the muddling scents of cigahomebrewing hobby into a business. At rette smoke and something bubbling in a the time, there were only six other brew- crockpot behind us. Locals in their work eries open in all of Louisiana—which clothes and various shades of St. Paddy’s now boasts over forty. day greens played pool in the corners and The massive warehouse had the feel whispered at the bartop. From a pillar at of a garage party, decked out for Cha- the bar’s center, a figurehead of a nude funkta’s ninth anniversary bash set to woman extended as though from a ship’s be held the very next day. The space was mast and from the ceiling, it appeared as filled with long folding tables and chairs, though cypress knees were growing upbut most of the small, familiar-seeming crowd that night was gathered around the bar Photo courtesy of the Abita Brew Pub in the corner. From the short menu, I ordered a pint of the Chafunkta 985—a wheat ale brewed with Meyer lemons, thick and tart with a subtle sweetness perfect for the approaching summer. Julien had the easy and light inVINCEible Ale, a beer dedicated to the memory of Captain Vince Liberto, Jr., a Mandeville Police Officer who was killed on the job in 2019. All proceeds from the inVINCEible Ale go towards the Captain Vince Liberto Memorial Foundation, which benefits families and loved ones of First Responders and Military

side down like stalactites. As we went to close out our tab, we gently moved an egg carton out of our way to sign the receipt on the bar. Back at the hotel, we snacked on leftovers, found Seinfeld on the fully-streaming-equipped smart TV, and eventually fell asleep to the gentle sound of rain pattering on the old house’s roof, splashing into the spring-fed pool outside. Morningside, we raced across the street in the night’s residual drizzle to nab a table at the Abita Springs Café—housed in a building that has held family businesses in Abita since 1881. Fully anticipating the gloriously-greasy standard fare

72011 Holly Street, Abita Springs, LA 70420

www.abitabrewpub.com

// M A Y 2 2

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of a stereotypical small-town diner, I was pleasantly surprised to discover an extensive and artful breakfast and brunch menu—offering everything from Green Tomato Eggs Sardou and banana-stuffed French toast to NOLA-style BBQ Shrimp & Cheese Grits and a flambeaux omelet. They also serve an equally impressive lunch and dinner menu, with a drink selection featuring local brews from across the Northshore and cocktails served all day long (including a shrimp and bacon Bloody Mary that Julien convinced me out of ordering). I got myself a cup of the famous Abita Roasting Co. coffee, and Julien and I proceeded to haggle over who would get something sweet and who would get something savory. Ultimately, I couldn’t turn down a smoked salmon breakfast, and placed an order for the Eggs Alaska—which came beautifully presented on a toasted bagel with schmear, hollandaise, chives, and poached eggs from the café’s own pasture-raised chicken farm. Julien went sweet, with a hearty plate of powdered sugar-dusted praline chicken and sweet cream waffles. Before we left, I grabbed a macchiato to go, and we traipsed past the chicken coop and the adjacent snoball and coffee stands to get to one of Abita Springs’ most famous (and famously-weird) attractions: The Abita Mystery House. The museum is the indescribable brainchild of Abita Springs artist and musician John Preble, who greeted us from his desk in the gift shop. If a movie was ever set in Abita Springs, Preble would be an indispensable Abitan char-

acter. He moved to the village in the early 1970s with a collective of other artists, seeing the opportunity to make the quiet little town their own creative haven. Since then, Preble’s opened a temporary pottery business, engaged the community in countless revitalization efforts, and heralded wonderfully-offbeat events that include the Louisiana Art Car Festival, Louisiana Bike Festival, the PushMow Mardi Gras Parade, and the Abita Springs Whole Town Garage Sale. His son Will is the owner of the Abita Springs Hotel, which frequently displays Preble’s artwork, as well as that of his late wife, jewelry-maker Anne O’Brien. The Abita Mystery House, opened in 2000 as the UCM (Unusual Collections and Minitown) Museum, is Preble’s crowning achievement. A wonderland of Americana—or rather, Louisianicana—the collection of shacks and cottages filled to bursting with outlandishly-curated stuff is a glimpse into Preble’s mad-hatter mind. It’s the kind of experience you really should have more than once—a folk art vision reminiscent of George R. R. Martin’s Meow Wolf in Santa Fe, except crafted by a single artist. Guided by tongue-in-cheek signage (“Create art and get Rich!” “This Property is Being Restored to the Jurassik Age/U.S. Park Permit Applied For” “Reduce Clutter Give Me Your Stuff”), a visitor is forced to slow oneself to take in the overlapping “exhibits”: a chandelier made of rusty wire and doorkeys, a space heater-turned-robot that resembles The Iron Giant, a wall of paint-bynumbers, loose computer parts hanging

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from the ceiling, innumerable post cards and photographs and stickers and bottle caps. In between the delights of tchotchkes-turned-décor are Preble’s shrines: remarkable scenes of Louisiana life crafted from knickknacks. In Rudy’s Rainbow Lounge, tiny Black dolls are posed in various stages of nightclub bliss beneath a tiny disco ball. Uncle Byron’s Toy Store is a mess of primary-colored figurines on tiny shelves right beside Aunt Chrisy’s Gun Shop—populated by miniature armymen guns and “taxidermied” toy animals on the walls. If you press a button on one diorama village, a tornado starts spinning and the walls lift off of a nearby trailer house. This is not to mention the

many glass-cased specimens of creatures that include the Fiji mermaid, a wolverinegator, a “thirty-two foot alligator” with thirty-two feet, and in a boat shed outside: the massive “Amazing Bassigator”. Other delights include: a working Pacman machine, a cast of the Honey Island Swamp Monster’s footprint, and a Hot Sauce House. Something I love about traveling in smaller towns is the concentratedness of character that they possess: they reveal so much of themselves to you so very quickly. We loved getting to experience our taste of Abita Springs’ essence—but even still, this town’s wells run deep. h

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Some places we hope to get to next time: The Abita Springs Art & Farmers’ Market

Held every Saturday at the Trailhead, this showcase of local merchants gives a true (and delicious) taste of the area’s creative, entrepreneurial, and natively-grown spirit. townofabitasprings.com/farmers-market

The Abita Springs Trailhead Museum

This historic one-room museum offers a vibrant portrait of Abita Springs’ past—from its history as a Choctaw Village, then later as a health resort town, and now as an artists’ haven. Exhibitions displaying local artists rotate throughout the year. Hours are Fridays and Saturdays 10 am–4 pm; Sundays 11 am–3 pm. Free admission. trailheadmuseum.org.

Abita Springs Opry

Held in the Abita Springs Town Hall on Saturday nights six times a year, this concert series hosts Louisiana roots artists playing old-time Country, Bluegrass, Cajun and Zydeco, Gospel, and more—all with an emphasis on preserving and presenting Louisiana indigenous music. May’s concert will be held on the 21, featuring The Bad Pennies Pleasure Makers, Pat Reedy and the Long-Time Goners, the Slick Skillet Serenaders, and the Travis Clark Band. 7 pm–9 pm. $20. abitaopry.org. // M A Y 2 2

Directory of Merchants Abbeville, LA Abbeville Main Street

Wilson & Wilson 43 Attorneys, LLC Window World of Baton Rouge 65 WRKF 89.3 FM

Mandeville, LA 61 St. Tammany Parish Tourist Commission 24 Abita Springs, LA 26 Abita Brew Pub 59 Mansura, LA Avoyelles Tourism Albany, LA Brookhaven, MS Commission 22 Livingston Parish CVB 12 Brookhaven Tourism Council 31 Metairie, LA Baton Rouge, LA Broussard, LA Jefferson Performing Arts Allwood Furniture 15 Parkside RV Park 67 Society 41 Artistry of Light 4 49 Folsom, LA Baton Rouge Clinic Morgan City, LA Becky Parrish Advance Giddy Up 65 Cajun Coast CVB 55 Skincare 59 Blue Cross Blue Shield 13 Grand Isle, LA Natchez, MS Drusilla Imports 47 Grand Isle Tourism Live @ Five 17 East Baton Rouge Parish Department 39 Monmouth Historic Inn 20 Library 72 Mrs. Holder’s Antiques 6 Elizabethan Gallery 27 Hammond, LA Murray Land & Homes Realty 11 J & J Exterminating 46 Tangipahoa Parish CVB 71 Natchez City Sightseeing 21 Losey Insurance and Financial Natchez Convention Promotion Services 40 Jackson, LA Commission 17 Louisiana Foundation Against Olive Branch Furniture & Natchez Olive Market 63 Sexual Assault 51 Accents 67 United Mississippi Bank 51 Louisiana Public Broadcasting 55 Jackson, MS New Iberia, LA LSU Online and Continuing Visit Mississippi 5 Iberia Parish CVB 25 Education 27 LSU Rural Life Museum 43 Lafayette, LA New Orleans, LA The Manship Theatre 14 Allwood Furniture 15 Historic New Orleans Mary Bird Perkins Cancer Alysson Bourque 36 Collection 3 Center 10 Moncus Park 48 Stafford Tile and Stone 9 Mid-City Artisans 63 The Hilliard University Art Opera Louisiane 30 Museum 53 New Roads, LA Our Lady of the Lake Regional Arts Council of Pointe Medical Center 19, 37 Lafitte, LA Coupee 63 Pennington Biomedical Research Town of Jean Lafitte 53 City of New Roads 57 Center 7 Pointe Coupee Historical Pinetta’s European LaPlace, LA Society 67 Restaurant 63 River Parishes Tourist Stafford Tile and Stone 9 Commission 16 Oberlin, LA Three Roll Distilling Allen Parish Tourist 48 Company Commission 2 68

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Opelousas, LA St. Landry Parish Tourist Commission

Plaquemine, LA Iberville Parish Tourism Department

Port Allen, LA West Baton Rouge CVB 23 West Baton Rouge Museum 39 Port Arthur, TX Visit Port Arthur

Scott, LA Bob’s Tree Preservation

Sorrento, LA Ascension Parish Tourism Commission

St. Francisville, LA Artistry of Light 44 Bohemianville Antiques 33 Grandmother’s Buttons 33 Stems Boutique Florist 33 The Conundrum Books & Puzzles 33 The Magnolia Cafe 33 The Myrtles Plantation 33 32 Town of St. Francisville Walker Percy Weekend 69 West Feliciana Parish Tourism Commission 32 Ville Platte, LA Evangeline Parish Tourism Commission

Zachary, LA Lane Regional Medical 29, 35 Center Signature Southern Accents 6

Artwork: "Walker Percy at the Lake" by Bryan Bustard

JUNE 3—5, 2022

ST. F R A N C I S V I L L E , L A

Schedule Highlights

• Friday: A Bubbles, Beer, and Barbecue Feast with live music. Hosted by "Eminence Grease" John Shelton Reed and staged under majestic oaks. • A Saturday series of Lectures and Panel Discussions on themes explored in the books of Walker Percy. • A Saturday-afternoon Progressive Front-Porch Tour and Bourbon Tasting with tastings, inspired by Percy's essay, "Bourbon, Neat." • Crawﬁsh Boil: Back by popular demand! The authentic Louisiana crawﬁsh boil including cash bar with selection of local craft beers, returns.

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Country Roads Magazine "The Embrace Your Place Issue" May 2022

Articles inside

"Vanishing Black Bars"

A Bit of Abita

Silence on the River

Green Light New Orleans

Revisiting Red Stick Spice

Soul Fusion Natchez

Doorstep Discoveries

Nightshade Flower Farm

Tennessee in New Orleans

Wild Bush Farm + Vineyards

Chefs on Boats

Local Supply

Maison Chenal's New Owners

Reflections: Where to Draw the Line

On the Cover: Grown in Louisiana