County Grapevine Magazine by Travis King

“It’s quite simply the best Pinot Noir I have tasted in Ontario” - Tony Aspler

1152 Greer Road, R.R.1 Hillier, Ontario 613.399.5297 norm@normanhardie.com www.normanhardie.com

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The"vines and oak barrels are"from France. The"limestone"soil"and ideal"climate"are"in the County. The"taste"and nose are"from me. Enjoy.

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www.thecountygrapevine.com PUBLISHER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Shannon Bisnaire Deborah Melman足Clement

LIFESTYLE EDITOR/PROP STYLIST

Laura Branson

FOOD STYLIST

Ruth Gangbar

GRAPHIC DESIGNERS ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES CIRCULATION

FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: please email advertise@thecountygrapevine.com.

FOR GENERAL INQUIRIES: please email info@thecountygrapevine.com. FOR SUBSCRIPTION INQUIRIES: please email subscribe@thecountygrapevine.com. Subscriptions: $22 (4 issues) one year within Canada. The County Grapevine is published four times per year by Revell Bisnaire Advertising & Publishing Inc. !"#$#%$&'()"*(&&(+',*('-.,-'%/'-.('0*#-(*',$+'+%'$%-'*(1(2-' the opinions of The County Grapevine. The publisher accepts no responsibility for advertiser claims, errors, or omissions. No part of this publication may be reproduced without consent of the publisher.

Jen Detlor, Duong Tran, Darren Young John Puddy Lisa Noel, Deborah Revell Lynn Revell

Coming Next Issue SPANISH GUITAR Local musician, Jamie Stever CINNAMON Cinnamon recipes for the Holidays HOLIDAY FOOD WINES Perfect menu, perfect wines and more...

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 1

Our Writers

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS TONY ASPLER Tony Aspler has been writing about wine for over 30 years. He was the wine columnist for The Toronto Star for 21 years and has authored 14 books on wine and food, including The Wine Atlas of Canada, Vintage Canada, The Wine Lover's Companion, The Wine Lover Cooks and Travels With My Corkscrew. One of Tony’s latest book is!"#$!%$&'()(*$!+,',-(,'! Wine & Cheese Cookbook (with chef Gurth Pretty).

LAURA BRANSON Laura Branson grew up north of Prince Edward County in Stirling, Ontario. She has been a mainstay in the magazine and advertising industry for the past 10 years working as a prop stylist, producer and writer for Chatelaine, Canadian Living, Glow, Cottage Life, Spacing and International Architecture & Design, among others. She currently resides in Toronto with her husband, their 20 yearold cat, Farley, and newest addition, baby Azalea.

GRAHAM DUNCAN Since debuting as the weekly restaurant reviewer for the Victoria Times Colonist, Graham's work has been seen and heard in such outlets as CBC Radio, Toro Magazine and The Globe and Mail. Graham's Drink Up column appears weekly in Toronto's Now magazine, where his recommendations guide readers through the serious business of having fun appreciating drink.

JENNIFER HARDENNE An awardwinning journalist, Jennifer Hardenne has contributed to publications ranging from the Globe and Mail to Chatelaine. Once a die hard urbanite, Hardenne traded her stilettos for more sensible footwear when she moved from Toronto to pastoral Prince Edward County in 2002. Among her current projects is a yetuntitled cookbook.

2 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

Our Writers

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS DAVID LAWRASON Former Globe and Mail wine and columnist and founder of Wine Access magazine and the Canadian Wine Awards, David is currently wine columnist for Toronto Life, Ottawa Magazine, WineAlign.com. In 2005 he moved to Belleville to chronicle the exciting development of Prince Edward County, and is now a wine columnist for The County Grapevine.

SUZANNE LATCHFORD Upon her return from working with horses in Europe, Suzanne graduated with honors from the culinary arts program at Liason College in Kingston, Ontario. A native to Prince Edward County, Suzanne is wellknown for her wine truffles, wedding cakes, and baked desserts. Though she has returned to her work with horses, her inner chef is always inspired.

NATALIE MACLEAN Ontario native Natalie MacLean, author of the bestseller Red, White and Drunk All Over, was named the World's Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards. She offers a free newsletter with wine reviews, pairing advice, recipes and humour at www.nataliemaclean.com.

JENNIFER MCLAGAN Jennifer McLagan has more than 30 years of experience in the food world. Her first book, Bones: Recipes, History & Lore (2005), was widely acclaimed, winning the James Beard Award for singlesubject food writing. Jennifer’s second book, Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient with Recipes (2008) won the Gourmand World Cookbook Award for Best Cookbook Cover, the Silver Sprout Award, and both the IACP and James Beard Awards for Best Single Subject Cookbook in 2009. It was also named The Best Cookbook of the Year 2009 by the Beard Foundation. Jennifer divides her time between Toronto and Paris, maintaining a close, friendly relationship with her butchers on both sides of the Atlantic, who put aside their best bones and fat for her. THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 3

Our Writers

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS MICHAEL PINKUS Michael Pinkus has had a 20year love affair with wine. In early 2005, he left a career in radio and combined his love for writing with his passion for wine to become the head writer and all around grape guy for Ontario Wine Review. His mission was to bring Ontario wines into a more positive light, not just for fellow Ontarians, but for Canadians and wine lovers the world over. Check out his website and blogs at www.ontariowinereview.com.

JOCELYN ROBERTS Jocelyn Roberts is a freelance writer and an avid photographer. Jocelyn is also a 20 year veteran of the York Catholic District School Board. Most of her career was spent teaching English and she has moved on to new her position as Guidance Counsellor at Sacred Heart CHS. She resides in Newmarket, Ontario with her teenage daughters Sophie and Isabelle, her husband Jean, and their dog, Scout.

MARNIE WOODROW Marnie is a freelance journalist, novelist and writing instructor. Her work has appeared in Toronto Life, The Globe and Mail, The National Post and many literary journals. She and her partner, their dog and cat are delighted to call Milford home. www.marniewoodrow.com

MELODY WREN A freelance writer for over 25 years, Melody studied journalism at the Londo, (UK) School of Journalism. She wrote Melody Wren's Tearooms of Southern Ontario, after touring approximately 150 tearooms–and has the hips to prove it. Melody writes regularly for the Toronto Star website, and has written articles for Cottage Life, Verge Travel Magazine, Guelph Life and Coffee Culture. www.melodywren.com

4 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS

Our Photographers

DEREK COOPER Derek is a professional photographer residing with his family in Kingston, Ontario. He specializes in food, still life, and product photography with clients including LCBO, The County Grapevine, and many more. Derek divides his time between Kingston, Prince Edward County and Toronto. www.derekcooper.com

GRAHAM DAVIES Graham Davies is a Welsh足born photographer with over 40 years, experience in commercial, journalistic and fine art photography. A champion of black and white real film in his Bald Photographer Gallery and Studio, he shoots digital for commercial work, as he says "when I have to."

STEVEN ELPHICK Steven Elphick was born in Toronto and was educated in photography at Ryerson and Sheridan College. His most recent book project, authored by Tony Aspler, The Wine Atlas of Canada, was published by Random House in 2007. He won Applied Arts awards in 2007 and 2008. He has also been well represented in large wine足oriented exhibitions at The Royal Ontario Museum and the Museum of Civilization. He has been judging wine professionally since 1988. He makes his home in Toronto with his wife Paula, and a Cavalier spaniel named Charlie. www.stevenelphick.com

MICHAEL GRILLS Michael is a Picton足based photographer. He is self足taught and specializes in commercial photography, working with various companies in and around Prince Edward County. He also enjoys family events and weddings. "Nothing makes me happier then knowing that I have captured an event, an emotion, a relationship for people to cherish for the rest of their lives." www.michaelgrillsphoto.com

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 5

I’m sure you’ve endured the task of cleaning out the crawl space or as I call it, the ‘for now’. I’ll put it there ‘for now’. A few laughs, a few tears as you sort through a collection of musty memories. Then, you find it… that jewel amidst a myriad of stone. I liken that jewel to the recent discovery I made – the crowning jewel of Kingston, Ontario. I never thought much about Kingston, never really heard a lot about it. Oh you know the standards – Queen’s University or the penitentiaries. But I decided to investigate further after seeing a billboard with their visitkingston.ca web site. I booked a fall

6 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

weekend escape immediately! A jewel indeed. Kingston brims with charm, heritage and character… from the Victorian limestone architecture to their vibrant downtown trading area, it’s full of surprises. I can’t resist a Farmer’s Market, so that was my first stop, located in a square framed by Canada’s oldest First Capital building, coffee shops, bistros with patios. The vendors were welcoming, friendly and generous when it came to bartering. I sauntered around a few blocks window shopping and found some of the most eclectic boutiques à la Europe. Little limestone carriage ways linking stores with

restaurants and pubs are quaint. There’s even a diner that’s settled into an old livery stable. As I browsed through the city visitor’s guide, I had difficulty deciding what to do – a Trolley Tour around the City, a boat cruise through the 1000 Islands or a trek up the hill to Ontario’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site - Fort Henry, where the Citadel had been transformed into Fort Fright – the Province’s largest scare attraction with live ghoulish animatronics, special effects and live scare actors. A must do. My morning stroll along the waterfront paths was reviving - wandering amongst

!"#$% & FALL 2010

1000 ISANDS CRUISES

May - October, 1 - 3 hour Lunch, Dinner & Sightseeing Cruises

KINGSTON WRITERSFEST

September 22 - 25 Four days of literary inspiration and excitement! - kingstonwritersfest.ca

20TH ANNUAL CHILIFEST FUNDRAISER tall, old trees just on the edge of a fall turn. The prevailing South-westerlies blew lightly off Lake Ontario, scampering crispy leaves under my feet. It’s also a biking town, as evident by many young and old alike, peddling through a nicely-paced city. I dare you to decide on dinner. Name your favourite ethnic plate and it’s yours, extremely reasonable too featuring locally grown and raised foods. And don’t let the hotel restaurants fool you, one has an extensive and enviable wine selection, another offers a fascinating open kitchen concept to observe your meal preparation

and another is steps from Kingston’s inner harbour. You can recline in all shapes and sizes of spas and personal care retreats, browse book stores and art galleries abound, one featuring a Rembrandt. Or revisit the market on Sundays to search for antiques and collectibles - but grab a hot latté from across the street first. Kingston is truly a rare jewel. Book a sleepover with your partner or make it a girl’s weekend in a waterfront hotel, a historic B&B or a midtown Country Inn. You hooked me… and I’ll fall for you again.

Saturday, October 2 Confederation Park - 12 to 4:00pm Local restauranteurs & chefs struttin’ their hot stuff for Hospice Kingston.

FLIGHT AT FORT FRIGHT

Saturday, October 30th, 10 am - 2 pm A day of fun and family-friendly competition with great prizes.

FORT FRIGHT at Fort Henry September 22 - October 31 Amazing animatronics, live ghouls and hidden surprises.

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 7

Features FEATURES 24

SO YOU THINK YOU CAN DANCE? by Laura Branson The Quinte Ballet School of Canada takes the world stage.

RIEDEL VISITS THE COUNTY by Graham Duncan An exclusive County interview with the youngest Riedel.

ISLAND RADIO by Marnie Woodrow The little radio station that is making waves on Amherst Island.

ALES AND PORTERS by Jennifer McLagan Hearty local beer recipes for fall featuring local ales and porters.

HEARTY BEER & LAMB PIE, P. 51

CYNTHIA PETERS by Jocelyn Roberts On the farm with new cooking school chef, Cynthia Peters.

CHOCOLATE MERLOT CRÈME BRÛLÉE by Suzanne Latchford A yummy dessert for fall entertaining.

EAST SIDE STORIES by Michael Pinkus County wine on the east side.

GV ART TOURING by Melody Wren

ONLINE EXCLUSIVE! thecountygrapevine.com

Cover Photo: Derek Cooper Disclaimer: The Cover photo of ballet shoes and wine is an artistic representation of the various stories within that relate to art, culture, food and wine.

8 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

THE QUINTE BALLET TAKES FLIGHT, P. 24

Over 70 artists–these are just a few... David Greaves

Bert Henderson

Denny Diamond

Sharon Bower

Danyne Kerr

Paulette Greer, Owner/Proprietor

Jane Rutter

Visit our street level boutique!

264 Main St. Wellington, Ontario 613.399.5550 www.sidestreetgallery.com

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 9

Departments DEPARTMENTS 11

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

AMUSEBOUCHE Bed and Bargain by Marnie Woodrow

CALENDAR OF EVENTS A list of select arts, culture, food, and wine events

BEST IN GLASS Newest glassware trends for fall.

TOMATO, BASIL SALAD p. 56

FAVOURITE THINGS These are a few of The County Grapevine’s favourite things

PROFILE Deborah Paskus: The Accidental Winemaker by Tony Aspler

PLEASANT PAIRING Tomato Basil Salad Appetizer Paired with a local wine by Jennifer Hardenne

OPINION Perspectives on The County and Ontario wine by David Lawrason

NAT DECANTS Great Wine Reads for fall by Natalie MacLean

TASTING NOTES Our tasting panel reviews select Prince Edward County wines

DID YOU KNOW? Fun facts about Prince Edward County and region.

10 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

BEST IN GLASS, p. 18

Publisher’s Note PUBLISHER’S NOTE Fall in the County is a beautiful time of year–not to mention a great season to visit. With various harvest festivals and a slower pace to boot, it's the perfect time to tour the wineries, shops and local restaurants. Our calendar of events (page 16) may be helpful when planning your fall weekends. In our cover story this issue (page 24), we take to the stage with The Quinte Ballet School of Canada. Ballet has always been one of my great interests, and I am pleased that our own local ballet company is one of the leading dance schools in Canada. B.('C>#$-('D,EE(-'62.%%E'%/'7,$,+,'-(,2.(&'@,$F'/%*@&'%/'+,$2(G#$2E>+#$='1,@($ 2%'+,$2#$=H'I$'/,2-A'0('0#EE';('/(,->*#$=','E#?('?#+(%'"(*/%*@,$2('%/'-.(&('1,@($2%' dancers performing at one of our local wineries this fall. Visit us online in October to ?#(0'-.('1,@($2%'&.%0'"(*/%*@(+';F'B.('C>#$-('D,EE(-'%/'7,$,+,H A few of our stories are interactive this issue, offering an online video component. One of these stories is our exclusive print and video interview with the youngest Riedel, Maximilian. This past summer, Maximilian conducted a glass semi nar at Huff Estates, and The County Grapevine was there to capture it all. Read the printed version on page 35 and visit our website for the full video version (www.thecountygrapevine.com). Print and web interaction offers a unique experience for our readers. The launch of the ipad recently offers new ways to present great content and The County Grapevine is at the forefront of this new technology. I am pleased to an nounce that our readers may now subscribe to our digital ipad version of The County Grapevine. Visit us online for more details. I hope you enjoy this issue from cover to cover–and from website to ipad! Cheers!

Shannon Bisnaire, Publisher/Creative Director shannon@revellbisnaire.com

Introducing... JOHN PUDDY, ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR 8#-.'9%.$:&';,2<=*%>$+'#$',+?(*-#&#$=',$+'@,*<(-#$=A'.('#&','=*(,-';($(4-'-%'The County Grapevine and our advertisers. His experience in the advertising industry is extensive, hav ing spent most of his career working with multinational food and beverage accounts and recently owning a specialty food and beverage branding agency. John and his wife, Nancy have relocated to the County after cottaging here for more than 25 years.

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 11

AMUSE–BOUCHE

Bed and ... bargain BY MARNIE WOODROW

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Prince Edward Community Centre 375 Main Street East, Picton

festival of fine craft themakershand.com

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 13

AMUSE–BOUCHE

BARREL RAISED, UNFINED, UNFILTERED & REMARKABLE.

49 Hubbs Creek Rd., Wellington, ON 613.399.5308 www.keint-he.ca

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DESIGN STUDIO SUSAN ALLISON

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“Living in Belleville, I only had to dip into the County after doing Saturday morning chores, and there I found a vibrant food and wine love-in underway in Picton’s Crystal Palace.” – David Lawrason

Presented Edward County Wine Country Ontario Presented by by Prince the Wine Route of Prince Edward County Join us on September September 25, 25, 2010 2010for forTASTE! TASTE!aacelebration celebrationofofregional regionalcuisine, cuisine, Prince Prince Edward County’s annual one-day epicurean experience featuring the finest Edward County’s annual one-day epicurean experience featuring the finest artisanal products, wines, beers, ciders and cuisine that the region has to offer. artisanal products, wines, beers, ciders and cuisine that the region has to offer. Set against the backdrop of Picton’s picturesque Crystal Palace, it’s a feast for Set senses againstwith the backdrop of Picton’s picturesque Palace, feast for the the mouth-watering aromas to temptCrystal the taste budsit’s anda the sound senses as mouth-watering aromas tempt taste buds and the sound of live jazz fills of live jazz filling the air. New this year, food and wine events will continue the air. throughout the week. Visit our website for details. preparedwith withananemphasis emphasisononlocally locally savoury and and sweet sweetconfections—all confections—allprepared Sample savoury sourced sourced ingredients—and ingredients—andenjoy enjoythe thewarm warmand andwelcoming welcomingatmosphere atmosphereasaschefs, chefs, artisanal artisanal food food producers, producers,winemakers winemakersand, and,cider ciderand andbeer beermasters mastersenthusiastically happily discuss discuss their craft. their craft. Early bird bonus for those purchasing tickets in advance. Get your in advance and join in an unforgettable celebration. Join in an tickets unforgettable celebration.

www.tastecelebration.ca | 1.866.845.6644 TASTE! is an adult only event, attendance is limited to those 19 years of age and older.

Prince Edward County

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS

Calendar of Events ART, CULTURE, FOOD & WINE EVENTS IN PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

September 2nd – 30th Galleries One, Two and Three September is a celebration of local artist Manly MacDonald. Coincid ing with the release of the book Manly Edward MacDonald Inter preter of Old Ontario by Charles Beale, the exhibit will feature original works by this artist from the Belleville Library Collection and the Loyalist College Collection and private collections. Glanmore Na tional Historical Site will also display artifacts and personal items which once belonged to the artist. 6139686731 ext. 2240 or visit www.bellevillelibrary.com September 46 Rednersville Road Art Tour 10:00 a.m. 4:00 p.m., daily www.rednersvilleroadarttour.com

September 16 Lee Harvey Osmond Concert The Regent Theatre. 224 Main St, Picton, 613 4768416 www.theregenttheatre.org Tickets $24

September 1718, 2425 Prince Edward County Music Festival Church of St. Mary Magda lene, Picton 7:30 p.m., nightly www.pecmusicfestival.com Renowned musicians from across Canada and beyond converge in the County for two weekends of worldclass classical music. September 1719 Prince Edward County Studio & Gallery Tour pecstudiotour.com Explore the towns and back roads of the County and get to know the

16 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

artists who call it home.

September 19 10 am4 pm First Annual Open Farms Tour Learn about local food production, and meet the farmers who grow our food. Buy products at farm gate. www.openfarms.ca. September 2326 36th Annual Brighton Applefest for details visit www.applefest. reach.net September 25 9th Annual TASTE! Crystal Palace, 375 Main St. E., Picton 11:00am 5:00pm www.tastecelebration.ca Celebrate the best of County

CALENDAR OF EVENTS cuisine at this oneday showcase %/'%>*'*(=#%$K&'4$(&-'2.(/&A'=*%0(*&A' winemakers and more. Admission is $25.00. Must be 19 or older. September 25 The Toronto Welsh Male Voice Choir The Regent Theatre. 224 Main St, Picton, 613 4768416 www.theregenttheatre.org Tickets $35 October 1,2,3 Art Show L' 2(E(;*,-#%$' %/' 2%E%>*' ,$+' 4$(' wine! Hosted by The Gallery at Sandbanks Estate Winery, Rita Thiv ierge’s art show will feature an inspir ing collection of acrylic paintings. Come by and meet the artist. October 4 Prince Edward County Marathon www.pecmarathon.ca Cheer on some elite athletes from across the province as they take to -.('&-*((-&'%/'3#2-%$A'DE%%@4(E+',$+' Wellington for the seventh edition of -.#&'D%&-%$'M,*,-.%$'N>,E#4(*H October 7th – 28th Galleries One and Two Join us as we once again welcome the Belleville Art Association whose members’ work will be highlighted in their annual juried exhibition. We can expect “Mindscape” to be a vi brant show of mainly paintings and photography of the highest quality by artists in our community. The John M.. Parrott Art Gallery presents new exhibitions monthly. For more information regarding up coming shows, please contact us at 6139686731 ext. 2240 or visit www. bellevillelibrary.com

October 16 14th Annual Wellington Pumpkinfest 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.

www.pec.on.ca/pumpkinfest The giant pumpkins will be front and centre at this full day of fall fam ily fun, including a parade, games, food, live entertainment, and, of course, the weigh off. October 22 –November Scenes of Sandbanks Art Show and Sale Black Prince Winery 1370 Loyal ist Parkway Picton www.blackprincewinery.com Take home an original work of art at this annual show and sale, running Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays for two weeks in October and Novem ber.

rediscover your skin

October 30 Michael Bourada Illusionist The Regent Theatre. 224 Main St, Picton, 613 4768416 www.theregenttheatre.org

photofacials, laser, chemical peels, microdermabrasion 613.966.5211 615 Sidney Street, Belleville

www.beautyworksdayspa.com November 327 Countylicious www.countylicious.ca Treat yourself to delicious farmfresh cuisine at downtoearth prices as chefs from across the County pre ",*('"*#)'4)('@($>&'-%'.(E"'F%>'2(E (;*,-('%>*'/,EE'1,?%>*&H

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CARRIAGE HOUSE R E S T A U R A N T

November 57 The Maker's Hand Picton Fairgrounds 385 Main Street East, Picton www.themakershand.com B.('0%*<&'%/'O,&-(*$'!$-,*#%K&'4$(&-' artists and artisans will be on display at this eagerlyawaited show and sale.

C A S U A L L U N C H FINE DINING DINNER TA K E AWAY BA K E RY

6 1 3 . 3 9 3 . 1 0 8 7 VISIT US ONLINE FOR AN UPTODATE MONTHLY EVENTS CALENDAR! thecountygrapevine.com

S E A S O NA L H O U R S 2 6 0 M A I N S T R E E T B LOOMF IELD ~ ONTARIO www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse.com

GV THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 17

A Black Tie Affair At 143/8 inches tall the Touch Decanter is a picturesque mem ber of Reidels Black Tie Collec tion. The ribbon of black crystal adds a romantic element. Each unique piece is made by hand without the use of molds. Available online at www.riedelcanada.ca

Best in Glass

The versatility and style of glass is endless. These are some of the best in fall glassware –from pieces for everyday to those for special occasions.

18 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

BEST IN GLASS

On The Rocks The Trudeau Chill Wine Decanter is pure luxury with a glass base for ice and a sassy carafe. The decanter’s angled spout allows for easy pour ing. A focal point at any soirée. Available locally at Cucina Freeman’s, 366 North Front BellFront Centre Belleville, (6139669972). For a listing of retailers visit www.trudeau.ca

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THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 19

BEST IN GLASS

Leona

Dombrowsky, MPP Prince Edward-Hastings

SelfServe in Style An elegant cut glass bev erage dispenser is a con venient way for guests to top up their beverages, leaving the host more time to mingle! The Savannah Beverage Dispenser holds 1.5 gallons.

Picton Office: 206 Main Street Unit 4A Picton Ontario 613-476-9616 Open Friday 9:30-4:30 Belleville Office: 81 Millennium Pkwy Unit 3, PO Box 575 Belleville, ON K8N 5B2 613-962-1144

Available locally at Rob Mcintosh China, 502 Gardiners Rd., Kingston, (613 – 389 5333) and 39 King Street West, Brockville, (613 – 345 – 3031).

www.leonadombrowsky.com

Wellington Dental Centre Dr. Greg Tucker Dr. Jim McMahon Dr. Ed Collins 186 Main St. P.O Box 359 Wellington, ON K0K 3L0 (613) 3993900

Everyday Fyn Dining A stemless wineglass, the Fyn merges high tech design with function. Made from Borosilicate glass, it is dishwasher safe, will never cloud from washing %*'&-,#$'/*%@'*(+'0#$(H'B.('2($-*('=*#"',*(,'E#@#-&'4$=(*'2%$-,2-'-%'@#$#@#P(' heat transfer and keep wines and other beverages at desired tempera tures. Available locally at Cucina Freeman’s, 366 North Front BellFront Centre Belleville, (6139669972) and Susan's Just Because 280 Main St. Picton, (6134764128).

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20 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

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avourite Things Favourite Things

5,EE'#&','&(,&%$'%/'2%@/%*-H''I-K&','-#@('-%'(@;*,2('.%@(Q2%%<(+'/%%+&A'0,*@';(?(*,=(&A'2%PF'-()-#E(&',$+'&-*%EE&' through the fallen leaves. These are some of our favourite things–designed to help you embrace the shorter days and cooler evenings. Well Worth it

The Wellington is legendary for its comfort. It is a fashion icon and an ideal fall romping boot. The Welly is made %/'$,->*,E'*>;;(*',$+'.,&',$'%*-.%"(+#2'4-A'N>#2<Q+*FQ<$#--(+'$FE%$'E#$#$=',$+','@>E-#QE,F(*(+'2>&.#%$(+'&"%$=(' insole. Available locally at Richard Davis, 167 Main St., Picton, (6134762999).

Salt Box Your gourmet salts and sugars have a place to call their own. This marble double compartment saltbox with swivel lid holds 5 ounces in each compartment. L?,#E,;E(',-'B(**,'5E%*#$&A'RSS'M,#$'6-*((-A'DE%%@4(E+A' (6133931993).

Tea Time Short for infuser pot, the Hues & Brews IPot has a colourful contemporary design. With a stoneware ceramic body, a removable stainlesssteel lid and doublemesh; infuser, it is convenient for microwaving water. It is also dishwasher safe. Available locally at Miss Lily’s Café, 289 Main Street, Picton, (6133995550) .

22 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

FAVOURITE THINGS Trivet Pursuit Trivets are real table savers. Place your hot dishes on this chromeplated wire Branch Trivet by Torre & Tagus. Available locally at Gilbert and Lighthall Marketplace, 171 / 173 Main Street, Picton, (6134763131).

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THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 23

So You Think You Can

DANCE BY LAURA BRANSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY TRACY COX & BOB HOUSE

24 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

Shannon McKechnie THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 25

"Angelically, they transition movements, floating about on the spot like wind-up figurines."

Twelve strong but lithe dancers, clad in black leotards and dancer shorts, hair coifed in tight buns, pose majestically. Angelically, they transi -#%$' @%?(@($-&A' 1%,-#$=' ,;%>-' %$' -.('&"%-'E#<('0#$+Q>"'4=>*#$(&H'O,*EF' afternoon light disperses across the "%E#&.(+'1%%*'E#<('&-%$(&'&<#""#$='%$' water. The worn toes of pointe shoes squeak as the dancers repeat their &-("&H'B.(F'"(*/%*@'0#-.'1>#+#-F',$+' grace before John Ottmann, artistic director of the Quinte Ballet School of Canada (QBSC). “From the front of the room, the most beautiful things I am seeing are when you are dancing and are in your own world,” he observes. “Then you have a mo ment of doubt and look to the per son next to you to see what they are doing and (your focus is lost).” Ottmann exudes sophistication with his lean physique and dark at -#*(H' B.(' *%%@' #&' 4EE(+' 0#-.' -.(' .,* monious and irregular chatter of adolescents. That is, until Ottmann ($-(*&H' ' V(' &"(,<&' #$' ,' 2,E@A' ,/4* mative voice as his pupils look on with respect and reverence. On this particular day, Ottmann informs them they will be concentrating on “awareness of technique and awareness of body.” The evolution of dance in recent years has lured the masses with its universal appeal, reclaiming the hu man experience. As the popularity of this art form gains momentum on the world stage, the QBSC is keep ing in step. It is one of the most re nowned training institutions in Can ada, nurturing performers for life. Graduates achieve both interna tional and personal success, as this discipline of movement prepares them for more than just the stage. W(&"(2-(+' ,&' %$(' %/' -.(' -%"' 4?(' ballet schools in Canada, its grad uating students have been ac cepted into major dance compa nies around the world. They have worked with The National Ballet of Canada (NoBC), Alberta Ballet, Ballet British Columbia, Les Grands Ballet Canadiens, Slovak National

Ballet, Shanghai Ballet, National Ballet of New Zealand, Nevada Ballet, Washington Ballet, Ballet Jor gen, Houston Ballet and the New York City Ballet. Alumni have also danced in major productions such as The Phantom of the Opera, Cats, and Dirty Dancing, the Musical. Canadian Supermodel Liisa Winkler was a graduate in the late 1990s. Her 5’11 frame was too tall for work as a ballerina. However in front of the lens, her formal dance training helped her capture the attention of photographers worldwide with .(*' (-.(*(,E' ;(,>-F' ,$+' 1>#+#-F' %/' movement, and she earned con tracts with Gucci, Hugo Boss, Calvin Klein, Valentino and Ralph Lauren. She later married QBSC graduate Ryan Bourne, principle dancer of the NBoC. Julie Hay, a close friend of Winkler’s, was hired as a soloist for the NBoC and danced in Dirty Dancing, the Musical. And Riyo Mori, now the owner of a dance stu dio in Japan, took the Miss Universe title in 2007. These are just a few of QBSC’s bestknown graduates. The journey of the QBSC began in 1972, when a group of volunteers brought the original artistic director, Brian Scott, to Belleville to provide 4*&-Q2E,&&';,EE(-'-*,#$#$=H'I$'-.('(,*EF' days, there were about 60 students, two teachers and some volunteers. Thirtyeight years later, the school has grown to 350 students; approxi mately 50 of them in the profes sional stream. The school offers both nonprofessional and professional streams: the Umbrella Dance Pro gram and the Professional Training Program. The language of dance is evolv ing. The lines between classical and contemporary are merging to cre ,-(',$'()"*(&&#%$'-.,-'#&'4$(EF'->$(+' and intricate. QBSC also teaches X,PPA'1,@($2%',$+'@%+(*$'+,$2(H' Guest choreographers and instruc tors visit the school to workshop the students, lending their unique expe rience of movement and providing

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THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 29 24/08/10

4:22 PM

Natasa Bansagi them the opportunity to explore 0#-.#$' -.#&' .#=.EF' &"(2#,E#P(+' ,*-' form. Francine Liboiron from Les Grands Ballet Canadiens, Les Ballet 9,PP' +(' M%$-*(,EA' U,U,U,' V>@,$' Steps and Kidd Pivot, Laurence Lemieux from Coleman Lemieux & Compagnie and Anne Plamon don and Victor Quijada from Rub berbandance Group are among the sage mentors. The presence of successful guest choreographers is among the many factors that contribute to the school’s growing reputation. Perhaps the most nurturing aspect of the school’s philosophy is that it does not reevaluate students once they have gained admit tance into the Professional Pro gram. Most wellknown dance intuitions annually reassess their students, often based on physical shortcomings. QBSC makes a point of cultivating its students’ strengths and providing nourishment for -.(#*' =%,E&H' ' !--@,$$' (@".,&#P(&' this facet. Board cochair Judith Atkinson says that Ottmann “em braces a guiding, coaching, men

30 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

toring approach to his work with students which includes making expectations clear. He uses posi tive reinforcement to assist the stu dents in identifying and achieving their goals.” For those not native to the Belleville area, the school also uses a fam ily billeting system, which bolsters this nurturing environment. Unlike resident programs, billeting allows students to live with families who are familiar with the QBSC and the lifestyle of its young protégés. Be cause the students are away from .%@('/%*'-.('4*&-'-#@(A'-.(F'&-#EE'*( quire parental guidance. Several students will often billet with one family, fostering camaraderie. At kinson billets three girls: Natasha Bansagi, a delicate 16yearold /*%@' !--,0,Y' L&.E(F' 6.#@>P#A' ,' 16yearold from Mississauga, and Grace Sutherland, a softspoken 16yearold from Buffalo, New York. Sutherland is aptly named, with her perpetually poised back and deli cate hands resting gracefully on her lap. She enjoys that her place ment in the Professional Program

earns her regular high school cred its. “We’re still putting in the time of regular students, but just doing it in another building,” she says. It’s a selling feature for those enrolled and one of many reasons QBSC is attracting young dancers from all over Canada, the United States, Mexico, Europe and Asia. “A lot of us come away from home, which helps in becoming independent for life outside of dance,” says Bansagi. Much of the QBSC’s success can be attributed to Scott, the artis tic director from the 1970s to the late 1990s, who performed with the NBoC during his career. After his departure from the QBSC, sev eral artistic directors attempted to 4EE' .#&' &.%(&A' ;>-' #-' .,&' -,<($' !-- @,$$K&',""%#$-@($-'#$'RZZ['-%'4 nally move the school forward. Deeply woven into Ottmann’s being is his love of dance. When speaking on the subject, his words 1%0'*.F-.@#2,EEF'E#<(','&F@".%$FH' His diction and the tonality of his voice compliment the intricacies of his art.

Grace Sutherland, Natasa Bansagi

Shannon McKechnie

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 31

Shannon McKechnie, Roger Scannura, Frances Young

Roger Scannura, Shannon McKechnie

''']#&#-'>&'%$E#$('#$'!2-%;(*'/%*'?#+(%'%/','1,@($2%'"(*/%*@,$2(',-'%$('%/'-.('7%>$-F:&'E%2,E'0#$(*#(&H thecountygrapevine.com

B.(F' ()"*(&&' ,' 4$#-(' +(-,#E' ,$+' breadth of character like a chorus of violins. After speaking with Ott mann, one begins to understand the many layers of dance. Ottmann’s arrival at the QBSC was serendipitous; it’s as though life had choreographed this role for him. When the QBSC was seeking an artistic director, Ottmann had ac cepted a similar position in Califor nia. Upon retiring from professional dance, his longterm intentions were to merge into a mentorship and leadership role at a profes sional institute. That time had now arrived. He would continue sharing his gift by communicating the rich ness and depth of the art form to others. Due to the recent global 4$,$2#,E' 2*#&#&A' .#&' -*,?(E' "E,$&' 0(*(' annulled. Ottmann’s experience and vision spoke the language the QBSC wanted to hear. Ottmann came “not to reinvent the wheel, but to reevolve the way any art form should.” The foundation of Ottmann’s ca reer was built at the National Ballet of Canada and L’Ecole Supérieure de Danse du Québec. Over his 22

years as a performing artist, he has inspired audiences on the stages of the National Ballet, Ballet Brit ish Columbia, Alberta Ballet and The Royal Winnipeg Ballet. He has more than 20 choreography cred its and national support for his work continues to grow. His duet, Untitled Tangle, which he performed himself with Ziyian Kwan, opened the 2004 Canada Dance Festival. !--@,$$K&' "*%E#42' 2,*((*' #&' .#=.EF' valuable to QBSC. “His knowledge, experience and relationships in the dance world will allow us to evolve the school's training to incorporate a broader perspective of move ment, increasing the versatility of the dancers and thus increase their employment opportunities,” says Judith Atkinson . Atkinson praises “John's emphasis on development of the human be ing and artist, not just the ‘techni cian’, which aligns (advancements) in the areas of psychology, child de velopment, self esteem, education al and sport psychology.” She notes that he focuses on "movement rath er than positional training. This incor porates Pilates, yoga, principles of

32 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

anatomy and contemporary danc ing, along with ballet technique, allowing dancers to become more aware of their bodies, avoid injuries, and move in different ways.” The climate within classical ballet companies today is changing; they are expecting a greater diversity of movement and expression from dancers. “It has been happening in various stages for a while now,” says Ottmann, explaining that dance now mirrors the evolving language of other art forms such as music and visual arts. Ottmann speaks of Rus sianborn choreographer George Balanchine, cofounder and ballet master of The New York City Bal let, as a revolutionary voice in the ballet world. His work, while deeply entrenched in the knowledge of classical forms and techniques, was known for its musicality, thus creat ing fresher pieces and the emer gence of new ideas in ballet. Cho reographer William Forsythe took it one step further, says Ottmann, creating a “blending of styles, tech $#N>(&' ,$+' #+(,&A\' *(?%E>-#%$#P#$=' the way we see and experience ballet, making it a dynamic 21st century artform. “It is the use of

modern movement that makes the palette of classical ballet rich and colourful. Yet at the same time there is a deep historical and technical connection with classical ballet.â&#x20AC;? The media has furthered dance as a social expression through shows like So You Think You Can Dance and Dancing With The Stars. OttÂ mann muses that â&#x20AC;&#x153;on one level it appears that dance has increased in popularity. However, young chilÂ dren have always danced and dreamed of dancing. It is a deeply human experience.â&#x20AC;? We speak of evolutions in dance, yet the media may be responsible for reclaiming this lost art form. â&#x20AC;&#x153;In other parts of the world everybody in the commuÂ nity dances. It is part of the voice of a culture,â&#x20AC;? says Ottmann. The TV programs have been educaÂ tional tools, not only for the general public but also for those immersed in dance. Shows like So You Think You Can Dance sparked Shannon McKechnieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s interest in other dance expressions. The 17Â yearÂold daughÂ ter of Atkinson, she has attended QBSC for the past eight years. McKechnie was poised for a career in classical dance. She spent sumÂ mers training at the prestigious Rock School for Dance Education (RSDE) in Philadelphia. During her time at RSDE, she injured her foot and was sidelined for seven months. The inÂ jury was chronic and pop culture aided in leading her to explore a $(0' +,$2(' E,$=>,=(H' 9,PPA' @%+Â (*$' ,$+' 1,@($2%' ,EE%0(+' .(*' -%'' â&#x20AC;&#x153;discover other things about (herÂ self) and dance.â&#x20AC;? I-' 2,$' ;(' "&F2.%E%=#2,EEF' +#/42>E-' if an injury occurs. Experiencing a serious injury can end a dancerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career plans. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the hardest when your ballet career is ending and you have to come to terms with (being injured),â&#x20AC;? says McKechnie. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You are having a midlife crisis at 16, since a dancerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s career ends at 35.â&#x20AC;?

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haunting images of what was left of her dream. This intrinsic love for bal let is now expressed as fervor when &.(' "(*/%*@&' 1,@($2%H' 6.(' $%0' performs with the acclaimed Ritmo Flamenco and Dance Ensemble, a group that partners with the QBSC. Valeria and Roger Scannura, direc tors of Ritmo Flamenco, have been with the QBSC for over three years. Their presence allows students to &%,<' #$' 1,@($2%K&' #$.(*($-' +*, matic passion. It is an intense dance with a sense of musicality, rhythm and strength. Its intricate arm move ments and coordination bolster the versatility of the students’ training. The Scannuras’ professional train ing is on par with QBSC’s high stan dards. Valeria Scannura graduated from the National Ballet of Cana da’s Teacher Training Program and .,&'&->+#(+'0#-.'-.(';(&-'1,@($2%' -(,2.(*&'#$'6",#$H''6.('-(,2.(&'1, menco and ballet to the Profession al Program students and is also the principal of the Umbrella Program. She has formed ongoing relation &.#"&'0#-.'-.('1,@($2%'2%@@>$#-F' #$'9(*(PA'6",#$A'(&-,;E#&.#$=',$'#$-(* 10:18 AM national presence for Ritmo. Roger Scannura, Ritmo’s accompa nying musician, has been hailed as _7,$,+,:&' "*(Q(@#$($-' 1,@($2%' guitar master.” Passionately strum ming his guitar, he transforms the classroom into a Spanish festival. While in Spain, Roger was schooled #$' 1,@($2%' =>#-,*' ;F' 3("(' V,;# chuela. He has toured Europe and North America as a soloist and as @>&#2'+#*(2-%*'/%*'&(?(*,E'1,@($2%' dance companies. He is a faculty member of the York University Mu sic Department, the recipient of the prestigious Toronto Arts Award for composition and has won awards for TVO’s Expulsion & Memory doc umentaries and the Canadian Film Centre's production of Marterio. Re cently Roger composed and per /%*@(+' -.(' 1,@($2%' @>&#2' >&(+' ;F'%$('%/'-.('7,$,+#,$'4=>*('&<,- ing pairs at the 2010 Olympics. Ritmo has stamped the vineyards

34 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

of Prince Edward County with in -(*$,-#%$,E'1,*(H''6(?(*,E'CD67'&-> dents, including McKechnie, have performed with Ritmo for wine con noisseurs. This past summer, Ritmo danced at the Casa Dea and Sand banks wineries, the stage set with grapevines, their leaves ripened by -.(' &>$A' 1>--(*#$=' #$' ,+%*,-#%$' ,&' they sit on twisted branches. McK echnie and her QBSC colleagues -,<(' -.(' ,>+#($2(' %$' ,' 42-#-#%>&' journey to Spanish vineyards. A con tained explosion of life bursts forth from their movements into an oth erwise tranquil country courtyard. In September when the hush of fall descends, Ritmo and the QBSC stu dents will perform at the Sandbanks Winery during the grape harvest. Art and wine are the delicacies of life; the two are perfectly paired by the QBSC and the local winer ies. The school’s connection with County wineries extends beyond performances. As a benefactor for dance, Rosehall Run Vineyards has been the sole wine sponsor for the school’s annual fundraising gala for the past two years. Other wineries donate gift baskets to the gala’s si lent auction. The school will listen to the calls of society and respond with artistic expression. Dance will continue to shift and blend. “It is an evolving process that has many effects, not just on the stage, but in awareness of yourself,” Ottmann says. Dancers are storytellers, using their bodies to communicate. “Dance puts you in touch with yourself in different ways because it is another language.” Ottmann’s presence at the Quinte Ballet School will guide the voice of this generation of graduates. The girls will put on their silk pointe shoes, ribbons winding up their ankles as -.(F' E(,"' ,2*%&&' -.(' 1%%*H' B.(F' 0#EE' hear the echo of the piano keys as they transition through an adagio. The rhythm of modern dance will beat within their hearts and they will replay these scenes, telling tales to the world with leaps and bounds.

The Youngest Riedel

D`'aWLVLM'bcd7Ld'e'3V!B!aWL3V`'D`'MI7VLOU'aWIUU6 Courtesy of Stems Canada

An Exclusive County Interview with Maximilian Riedel THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 35

On a day of recordbreaking high temperatures across Ontario, Maximilian Riedel was looking &"E($+#+EF'2%%E',&'.('"*(",*(+'-%'"*(,2.'-.('0%*+'%/'W#(+(E'=*,"(Q&"(2#42'&-(@0,*('-%',$' audience of winemakers, writers and oenophiles at the Huff Estates winery. The tasting proceeded with Riedel discussing both the County wines being presented and how the various Riedel glasses suited them. By comparison, the same wines were also tasted in a &-,$+,*+'%$(Q&#P(Q4-&Q,EE'0#$('=E,&&',$+','2E(,*A'"E,&-#2'2>"H The Huff Estates South Bay Chardonnay’s wellintegrated oak emerged eloquently in the highly swirlable Extreme Chardonnay glass. While still enjoyable in the standard glass, the subtleties were muted. Norman Hardie’s precise 2008 County Pinot Noir was complemented by the shap ing of the Pinot glass, which delivered a measured, enlivening slurp with each sip.

Soon we were all instructed to pour wines, like mad scientists, from one Riedel glass to the next, 2%@",*#$='-.(#*'#$1>($2('%$';%>N>(-',$+'1,?%>*H'B.('"%%*'&-,$+,*+'=E,&&'2%>E+$K-'<(("'>"' and the plastic cup showed itself to be a hostile beaker. Upon completion, the congregation seemed largely converted to the Riedel way and even the @%&-'2F$#2,E'2%$&>@(*'0%>E+'4$+'-.('=E,&&0,*(K&'%?(*,EE'E(?(E'%/'2*,/-&@,$&.#"',$+'(E(=,$2(' hard to resist.

GD: What brought Prince Edward County to your attention?

GD: People will say, “I can drink wine from one or two types of glass, I'+%$K-'$((+'@>E-#"E('=*,"(Q&"(2#42' glasses.”

about 10,000 people in 2009. We present the two most consumed grape varieties, red and white, which are Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay and Cabernet Sau vignon and Pinot Noir. They get to taste these grape varieties from dif ferent glasses, including a generic wine glass and the plastic cup. The people who go to these workshops from around the world are just sur prised, shocked — in a good way —what kind of a difference the tool makes to the perception of aroma. The people who have gone through these workshops don’t go back to just one generic glass. Every grape variety needs its own glass to just showcase fruit, complexity and min erality at its very best.

MR: The beauty of the County and the winemaking skills. The soil is called Burgundian and I’m a big fan of Burgundy. Some of the grapes

MR: I would say that these people should join us for one of our wine tasting seminars that we do around the world. I personally educated

GD: What would be a starting point for people who don’t have the space or the budget for 20 different styles of glasses?

In 1973, ninthgeneration glass maker Claus Riedel debuted the Sommeliers series of stemware, the 4*&-' =E,&&(&' -(2.$#2,EEF' +(&#=$(+' -%' enhance all aspects of wine appre ciation. Under the direction of his son, Georg, the Austriabased com pany has become a global leader in glassware production and mar keting. In May of this year, Claus’ grandson Maximilian, in his role as CEO of Rie del America, paid a visit to Prince Edward County to discuss the Coun ty and Riedel glassware with The County Grapevine.

grown here in the County are some of those I personally prefer. The Rie del family is always very keen to come to winegrowing regions we haven’t been to before, and this is a very young region. I have to say that the Chardonnay that the region is famous for was one of the grape varieties that was really a highlight for my palate; won derful fruit, extremely wellmade. It was vintage 2007, one of the better years, and I believe that our Char donnay glass will do the right job.

36 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

MR: What we say is what grape vari ety do you drink the most? They have an answer, “Yes there is one grape variety that I enjoy the most.” Then I'&,FA'_b%$K-';(' &(E4&.A' 0.,-' ,;%>-' your spouse?” Because most of the time the palate is different so these are the two glasses you should start with. Riedel has 12 different glass collections. Which is right for you? What you spend on average for a bottle of wine you should spend on your stemware. You can buy de cent wine at $10.00, you can buy the introductory level of Riedel glass at $10.00 and it goes up to $120.00, $150.00. This is a rule we’d like to put up for what people should spend and where they should start. GD: Some of the Riedel decanters are very elaborate and have quite a sense of humour about them, the Eve for instance. How are shapes in spired? How are they arrived at? c\olj%ZX&io

MR: Nothing really is inspired by a drawing board. In workshops, we develop new shapes and in regard to the decanters, it is inspired by nature. The Eve design was done. It looked good, but I did not know functional it was. We had an outside institute test the aeration levels and it works like a 911 Porsche turbo en gine. It sucks fresh oxygen through the neck of the decanter by making a rotation move and this just accel erates the aeration and the oxygen level in the wine. So besides being a beautiful design, very organic, an elegant shape, the decanter has a lot of functionality to it, exactly what we, Riedel, stand for. Our glasses are not dust catchers; they are truly per formers. We call them tools. GD: What do you anticipate learn ing about the County in the work shop today?

MR: I’m looking forward to meeting the local winemakers, people from the industry and showing them how (//(2-#?(EF' -.(F' 2,$' #$1>($2(' -.(' future winemaking in the region. I hear this particular winery has 45,000 visitors and I feel that people should come here and taste wines at their very best and they need the right tool to do so. I’m looking forward to going through the experience with local winemakers and looking them #$'-.('(F('0.($'/%*'-.('4*&-'-#@('-.(F' taste their wine in different shaped glasses. For some of them, it might be an eyeopening experience. GV

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born in a barn

ISLAND RADIO BY MARNIE WOODROW

Out on bucolic Amherst Island, where the sheep and cow popu lation easily outnumbers the 400 />EEQ-#@('*(&#+($-&A'F%>KEE'4$+'%$('%/' Canada’s smallest radio stations. a#?($' #-&' &#P(A' #-&' ;*%,+2,&-' %>-">-' is impressive: CJAI 92.1 FM offers up programming 24 hours a day, seven +,F&' ,' 0((<H' B.,$<&' -%' -.(' #$4$#-(' reach of the internet, CJAI can now be heard all over the world—and is, with documented listeners as far away as India and Germany. Rid ing across Lake Ontario on the ferry from Millhaven on the mainland, you can spot the station quite easily: just look for the tall silo of the dairy barn, home to the signal transmitter. The barn itself sports the station call let ters and is owned by Dayle Gowan, host of one of CJAI’s most popular programs, The Udder Morning Show. The shows are broadcast from or re corded in the milk shed. It’s been years since cows were milked in this barn, but as an homage to the sta tion’s location, The Udder Morning Show opens with an impressive ca cophony of barnyard animal noises.

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Ironically enough, Gowan was one of the early naysayers who thought the very notion of a radio station op erating on the island was “the cra P#(&-' #+(,' I' (?(*' .(,*+f\' L$+' (?($' when he agreed to loan out the milk house of his barn for the enter prise, he insists he had no interest in becoming an onair personality. Life had other plans. He now devotes at least three hours of prep time to his weekly Quirks and Quarksstyle morning show (Mondays from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m.), and although the retired engineer has no background in radio, he’s a natural. Gowan took over the Monday timeslot of Break fast in the Barn from that show’s origi nal host, fulltime dairy farmer Adam Miller, changing it up a little to suit his interests in technology, health and science. Terry Culbert and Brian

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 39

Little had previously jumped into the Friday slot to spell Miller off with The Friday Morning Show. The station’s somewhat peculiar slo gan, “Like a Slice of Pie from Home, Forced through Your Speaker” refers to Amherst Island’s other identity. It’s apparently known as Pie Island due to the high number of skilled resident piemakers and cooks. With no restaurant in operation and very little tourist accommodation, a visit to the island is a step back in time in many ways. One of the Thousand Is lands, Amherst Island was settled by United Empire Loyalists in the 1700s and by a wave of Irish immigrants in the mid 1800s. The island’s popula tion peaked at 2000 in 1842. Today

there’s still a grade school and two active churches to tend to habi tués, a small store and a post of 42(H'B.('%$2(Q&>22(&&/>E'*(&-,>*,$-' closed last year and awaits a buyer. The island is a wonderland for bird ers, artists and anyone else seeking a little peace and quiet, and is best seen by car or bicycle unless you’re up for a 66squarekilometre stroll. With its rolling pastures, sheep farms, rocky shorelines and forested areas, it might seem an unlikely home for a radio station. But a visit to CJAI, situated in downtown Stella, the is land’s only village, quickly erases any doubt that there could be any spot more perfect for the daily transmission of Canadian music of all genres.

40 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

The originator of the Amherst Island Public Radio idea was former island er Tom Richmond. Although no lon =(*' ,/4E#,-(+' 0#-.' -.(' &-,-#%$A' W#2. mond gets much of the credit for getting the project off the ground. He purchased most of the neces sary technical equipment on eBay, requested use of Gowan’s barn, ">*&>(+' 7WB7' N>,E#42,-#%$&' ,$+A' two years in, secured funding from the Ontario Trillium Foundation. On L"*#E'gA'RZZhA'79LI'0,&'%/42#,EEF'_W, dio Born in a Barn.” It continues to this day under the direction of act ing station manager Jim Gould and a devoted crew of volunteer onair and behindthescenes talent. Some longtime residents were

Devonshire - Grapevine 04-10 fnl

initially a little cool to the concept in the early days, thinking it was some sort of stunt proposed by newcom ers. But over time, they have come to appreciate the community news and weather as well as helpful bul letins about the ferry. Birthdays are noted onair, as are island social events, and announcements about surplus berries and vegetables avail able for quick sale are not unheard of. But this isn’t just community ra dio serving only the tiny immedi ate populace. At present there are &%@('-0%'+%P($'"*%=*,@&'4EE#$='-.(' 24hour, sevenday schedule. The @>&#2' #&' -(**#42' ,$+' +#?(*&(A' *,$= #$='/*%@'X,PP',$+';E>(&'-%';#=Q;,$+' swing, folk, bluegrass and rock and roll with a 100% Canadian mandate on weekends and a Can Con music commitment of 66% the rest of the time. You won’t hear Celine Dion 4?('-#@(&','+,F'%$'-.#&'$%-2.'%$'-.(' dial. Emerging Canadian musicians might want to jump aboard the Frontenac II and drop in to say hello with CDs in hand. CJAI is committed to giving lesserknown Canadian musicians more airplay than most commercial stations ever would. In fact, dropping by to say hello– with or without musical intent–is encour ,=(+H'`%>K+';('.,*+Q"*(&&(+'-%'4$+' a warmer welcome in Canadian ra dio broadcasting. Aspiring County radio hosts should take note: CJAI is also open to proposals for new shows and they don’t limit their tal ent pool to island residents. And cooks, if you want to bring break fast to the guys on duty in the early morning, as concerned women used to when the station started up, they probably won’t turn you away. Former TV news reporter and cam eraman Terry Culbert has been with

CJAI since day one, cohosting The Friday Morning Show with sidekick Brian Little since June, 2006. Theirs is the station’s longestunning show. Now a fulltime visual artist, Culbert exudes boundless enthusiasm for CJAI and island life. He discovered Amherst Island during an assign ment covering Topsy Farms for Glob al News, although it would be years before he would return with his wife, fellow painter Barbara Hoegenau er, to settle down. On a show day, he rises at 4:30 a.m., showers, and heads for the ferry dock 12 km from his home to get the day’s Captain and crew names, as well as wind and weather information before hitting the airwaves with a rousing rendition of “O Canada” by Bowser and Blue. For the next three hours, every single Friday, he and Little blend unscripted talk, rock and country music, and goodnatured -(,&#$=H'I-K&',@,P#$='-%'-.#$<'%/'-0%' such energetic men crammed to gether in the tiny studio—the station comprises three small rooms and, more recently, a washroom—but they make it work. Complete bands have set up in the slightly larger main room for live performances. The guiding forces at CJAI seem to ;('1()#;#E#-F',$+','&($&('%/'.>@%>*H

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Every host is helped along by Au drey, the Britishaccented weather girl, who is actually a computergen erated voice programmed daily by a volunteer in Ohio. And to keep the 24/7 programming machine in mo tion, HAL, the computer, does his job around the clock. A large chunk of the music played comes either from donated CDs, the private collec tions of the hosts or from the Whit burn Collection, an online music da tabase. There’s no sound

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 41

4/11/1

Terry Culbert and Brian Little

engineer or studio director on duty. Hosts use SAM Broadcaster software that enables them to make their way through a show with relative technical ease. One lonesome shelf of vinyl in the station’s main room of fers a nod to days gone by, but most music is accessed via computer. The station is run on a miniscule bud get, funded completely through donations and $10.00 ayear mem bership fees. The only advertising in volves scheduled mentions of spon sor businesses or individuals. Other fundraising efforts include a used book sale and an onair pledge drive. To illustrate the increasing lis tenership of island radio, Gowan says, “We generally expect a lot of support from islanders when we fundraise. But the fact that almost a third of the donations came from offisland this year was pretty sat isfying.” And although no one on staff is paid except the bookkeeper, both Gowan and Culbert would both love to see more student in terns and youthful hosts. There have

been teenaged onair hosts playing contemporary rock and more such programming would only comple ment the current roster. It’s an excel lent training ground for public radio broadcast experience. Who knows 0.(*(' -.(' $()-' 3(-(*' aP%0&<#' @,F' get his start? Another area in which the station could use a (voluntary) helping hand would be in market ing, social networking and building an increased web presence, all of which will help to expand an audi ence. There is simply too much for existing volunteers to look after, between preparing shows, raising money and helping out in the com munity. New recruits with fresh ideas would be welcome, according to station veterans. Jim Gould is acting station manager, but he’s also the host of Jim’s Jazz Vault, which has an allCanadian edition that airs on weekends. The regular show runs daily in live and recorded formats and draws on Gould’s encyclopedic knowledge %/' X,PP' ,$+' .#&' #@"*(&&#?(' "(*&%$,E'

42 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

music collection. It is one of a selec tion of shows that can be enjoyed in archival form online through the station’s website, www.cjai.ca. Plans to increase archival access to older shows are being implemented in the coming months. The plea sure of simply tuning in online to see 0.,-K&'%$'%//(*'#&'%$('%/'-.(';($(4-&' of technology. The signal, although #$2*(,&(+' /*%@' 4?(' 0,--&' -%' R^Z' #$' 2008, is still hard to catch once you venture too far from the island. The internet option solves this challenge $#2(EFH' 8.(-.(*' F%>' 4$+' F%>*&(E/' tugged back to the Age of Aquarius or carried along on a toetapping live session of bluegrass depends on the hour. The programming isn’t exclusively musical in nature, and not every thing is produced inhouse. Skep tically Speaking, out of Alberta, explores controversial ideas about science, pseudoscience and re lated topics. Sally’s Books Beacon /(,->*(&' 4*(&#+(Q&-FE(' *(,+#$=&' /*%@' selected works. Deconstructing

Dinner, produced by Kootenay Co Op Radio out of British Columbia, weighs in on food matters. The afore mentioned morning shows combine music and information, bookending the weekday rush to the ferry ter minal for those who work offisland. The station’s website even boasts a ferrycam so you can see what’s happening on the water between the Millhaven and Stella docks. It’s a quaint operation, never intend ing to compete with slicker stations in Kingston whose daily operating budgets likely exceed CJAI’s four years of expenditures. While living on an island in Lake On tario yearround isn’t for everyone, #-' @%&-' +(4$#-(EF' &>#-&' a%0,$A' 0.%' relocated from Manotick, near Ot tawa. For his part, Culbert seems to have found the ideal location in which to make great use of 42 years of broadcast experience and his passion for rural living. Resi dents of Prince Edward County can more than identify with Culbert’s description of returning to Amherst Island after a time away. It’s not unlike how it feels to cross the Bay Bridge on Highway 62, or turning off the 401 onto Loyalist Parkway at Wooler Road. Says Culbert, “When you’re waiting in your vehicle on the @,#$E,$+',$+'F%>*'/*%$-'0.((E&'4*&-' go onto the ramp, there’s a calm ness that comes over you. And you come off that ferry and it is just beautiful. It doesn’t matter: it could be raining, snowing, but there’s a feeling of security, like Linus and his blanket, an unbelievable feeling of being home. There’s nothing like it.” B.(*(K&' +(4$#-(EF' $%-.#$=' E#<(' 79LIA' the little radio station powered by a dream and the volunteer spirit of a group of men and women who be E#(?('#$'_2*,PF\'#+(,&H''L&'#-'->*$&'%>-A' “born in a barn” is a compliment. GV THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 43

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Stories

East Side BY MICHAEL PINKUS

The regional battles of the past have seen some pretty epic confronta tions, most notably the American Civil War, which saw the North take on the South. These types of battles still rage in the wine world today. In France, there’s the Burgundy ver sus Bordeaux battle. California is home to the Napa versus Sonoma skirmish. Canada isn’t immune. We have B.C. versus Ontario in a classic confrontation of the vinous kind. In Ontario, a similar type of war contin ues. In truth, it’s nothing as epic as Good versus Evil, Cain versus Abel or North versus South. Actually, this one seems more of a friendly rivalry than an allout battle. I can hear you all saying, “tell us what this is about.” To understand, I’ll ask that you take a minute and turn to the map at the back of this maga P#$(G$%-'F(-A'0,#-'/%*'@F'&#=$,EG,$+' you’ll notice quite the disparaging difference between wineries on the east side of the County and those on the west side. Go ahead, take a

look now on page 7273 . I’ll wait for you to come back. First, we must answer the question of rivalry. Actually, I don’t believe there is one. (That was just my hook to reel you in.) “What drew me to the County,” says Paul Minaker of ThirtyThree Vines, “was really the -(**%#*' l' 0.,-' 2%$4*@(+' @F' ,- traction to County winemaking was drinking early wines produced by Dan Sullivan (of westender Rose hall Run) and James Lahti (of east ($+(*'U%$='b%=mH'B.,-'2%$4*@(+'-%' me that worldclass wines could be made here.” As you can see, there’s a mutual re spect and admiration from east to west and vice versa. Jenifer Dean of County Cider, Prince Edward Coun ty’s only cidery/winery, says that the history of eastern viniculture goes something like this:

North Marysburgh, the eastern part of the county where fruits, primar ily apples, were grown. “A much longer period of frostfree days due to the moderating effect of Lake Ontario allowed for the rip ening and growing of many vege table and fruit crops. “In the early days of this modern grape rush, most of the founding members of PECWA (the Prince Ed ward County Winegrowers’ Asso ciation) came from the east. In his book A Fool and Forty Acres, Geoff Heinricks makes a point of giving credit to Phil Matheson who planted vinifera grapes in the late 1970s on his organic farm in South Bay. He and a small group of organic farm ers planted test plots all over the County. Only the ones in North and South Marysburgh survived. READ MORE IN PRINT AND iPAD

“The County wine industry began in

66 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

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The Restaurant On The Knoll Overlooking The Sandbanks At West Lake Located at isaiah tubbs resort

Winner of VQA Gold in 2009 & 2010 Lakeside Dining Dining Room with cozy fireplace Wine Bar offering tastings Wine List featuring over 40 local wines

Resort offers wine inspired weekend packages in the fall and winter months.

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THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 67

VJG

$KTFJQWUG FJQWUG PCVWTG UVQTG 2823 County Road 40 Downtown Wooler 8km North of 401 (Wooler Road Exit) 18774807434 www.thebirdhouse.ca

Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am – 5:00 pm and Sunday noon4:00 pm

260 George St. Cobourg 905.396.7758

Custom Chocolate Designed for Wineries, Fine Food Shops & Restaurants

www.mercurychocolates.com

68 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

AVAILABLE IN PRINT AND iPAD EDITIONS ONLY

STYLE YOU LOVE... QUALITY YOU CAN COUNT ON.

Bedroom Home Office Gifts Mattresses

Dining Entertainment Q uilts Area Rugs

Our specialty is Canadian and Mennonite made solid wood furniture.Visit our showroom to experience quality Ontario made leather and fabric sofas, sectionals and chairs form Kroehler, Superstyle and Ferretti.

WWW.COUNTRYTIME.CA

AVAILABLE IN PRINT AND iPAD EDITIONS ONLY

Prince Edward County Location 256 Main St. Picton, 613.476.7400 Glenburnie Location 1478 Unity Road, Glenburnie, 613.547.5445 Kingston Locations 1245 Midland Ave., 613.634.1400 Cataraqui Town Centre, 613.634.1439 Newest Location 3039 Hwy. 29 Brockville

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THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 69

Regional Wineries 1

REDTAIL VINEYARD

HILLIER CREEK ESTATES

CASADEA ESTATES WINERY

ROSEHALL RUN

SANDBANKS ESTATES WINERY

BY CHADSEY’S CAIRNS WINERY

7 8 9 10 11

Oak Heights Winery

Toronto

422 Partridge Hollow Road, Consecon 46 Stapleton Road, Hillier

62 37

1186 Greer Road, Wellington

401

1243 Greer Road, Wellington

401

Ottawa -

Belleville Bay of Quinte

17598 Loyalist Parkway, Wellington

17432 Loyalist Parkway, Wellington

Big Bay

KIENTHE WINERY

49 Hubbs Creek Road, Wellington

KARLO ESTATES

Trenton

NORMAN HARDIE WINERY

Bay of Quinte

561 Danforth Road, Hillier 1152 Greer Road, Wellington

Muscote Bay

HARWOOD ESTATES

18908 Loyalist Parkway, Hillier

Sophiasburgh

HINTERLAND

1258 Closson Road, Hillier

STANNERS VINEYARD *(SPRING 2011)

LIFT HAUS

CLOSSON CHASE VINEYARDS

THE GRANGE OF PRINCE EDWARD ESTATE WINERY

Ameliasburgh

76 Station Road, Hillier

805 Closson Road, Hillier

629 Closson Road, Hillier

990 Closson Chase Road, Hillier

LACEY ESTATES WINERY

THE OLD THIRD

SUGARBUSH VINEYARDS

Wellers Bay

HUFF ESTATES WINERY

BLACK PRINCE WINERY

EXULTET

HALF MOON BAY WINERY

DEL GATTO ESTATES

WAUPOOS ESTATES WINERY

COUNTY CIDER COMPANY

BERGERON ESTATE WINERY

THIRTY THREE VINES

14 11

Rosehall 3

Hallowell

Hillier

13370 Loyalist Parkway, Picton

LONGDOG WINERY

2274 County Road 1, Bloomfield

Lak

1286 Wilson Road, Hillier

Consecon

804 Closson Road, Hillier 251 Closson Road, Hillier

n eco

Wellington

Bloomfield

7 Bay

West Lake

104 Brewer Road, Milford 1106 Royal Road, Milford

SANDBANKS PROVINCIAL PARK

3271 County Road 13, South Bay 3633 County Road 8, Waupoos 3016 County Road 8, Waupoos 657 Bongards Crossroad, Waupoos 9656 Loyalist Parkway, Adolphustown 9261 Loyalist Parkway, Adolphustown

E S

Legend

Winery Vineyards

East Lake

Athol Bay

Athol Soup Harbour

WWW CANADAS OLDEST GENERAL STORE COM

- Montreal

Long R

each

Napanee River

Hay

o t s ng

Bay 28

h ac

R us

9OU LL

4ROUSDALE S 'ENERAL 3TORE MINUTES NORTH OF +INGSTON

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33 A

Adolphustown

49 Picton Bay Glenora

Picton

N. Marysburgh

Waupoos

Prince Edward Bay

Black River Cherry Valley

Half Moon Bay

Milford 23 21

South Bay

S. Marysburgh

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 73

Tasting Notes COUNTY GRAPEVINE RATINGS: The County Grapevine'"*%?#+(&',$'%"#$#%$'%$'0#$(';,&(+'%$','gZZQ"%#$-'&2,E(',&'+(4$(+';(E%0k 95足100 points Outstanding characteristics and exhilarating to drink. Excellent quality, complexity and depth. 90足94 points O)2(EE($-'2.,*,2-(*#&-#2&',$+'?(*F'($X%F,;E('-%'+*#$<H'W(4$(+';,E,$2(A'2%@"E()#-F',$+'+("-.H' 85足89 points Very good characteristics and a pleasure to drink. Expresses good quality, balance, complexity and depth. 80足84 points Good characteristics and drinkable. Simple and displays some balance. Below 80 points Lacking in quality, character and balance.

TONY ASPLER

DAVID LAWRASON

74 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

NATALIE MACLEAN

ANNE MARTIN

MICHAEL PINKUS

TASTING NOTES

Reds 2008 Huff Estates Winery Merlot VQA Ontario Attractive, mouth足watering black cherries, blackberries and earthy $%-(&H' a#?(&' ,' "E(,&,$-' ;#-(' 0#-.' &>""E(A' />EEQ;%+#(+' E,F(*&' %/' 1,?%>*H' Good balance. This winery has made big strides quickly in terms of its quality and development from just starting out. Pair with: spiced lamb tourtiere, pan足seared scallops with pumpkin risotto. Drink: 2010足2012.

NATALIE MACLEAN

PEE_Grapevine_July5_2010.pdf

07/07/10

12:16 PM

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 75

TASTING NOTES

Rosehall Run Pinot Noir County 2008 VQA Prince Edward County This wine won a gold medal at Artevino in 2010. I tasted it blind then and loved it not knowing what it was for its Volnaylike structure ,$+'1,?%>*H'U#=.-'*>;F'#$'2%E%>*A'#-'.,&','E#/-(+'$%&('n-.,-'-%>2.'%/'?%E atility that heightens the bouquet) redolent of raspberries and moist (,*-.H'B.('E#=.-$(&&'%/'2%E%>*'-.,-'@#=.-'&>==(&-'+#E>-#%$'%/'1,?%>*'#&' +(4$#-(EF'$%-'-.('2,&(Y'-.('0#$('.,&','E%?(EF'?(E?(-F'@%>-.'/((E',$+' ,'*#2.'*,&";(**F'1,?%>*'0#-.','.#$-'%/'?#%E(-&'#$'-.(';,2<'-,&-(H'L'=(@' of a wine.

TONY ASPLER

Del-Gatto Estates 2009 Hailstorm Red St. Croix Prince Edward County W#=.-'/*%@'-.('4*&-'"%>*A'F%>'<$%0'F%>K*('#$'/%*'&%@(-.#$='&"(2#,E'.(*(H'B.(' beautiful red colour shimmers off the stream and into the glass. The smells *(?(,E'2.(**F',$+';E,2<'E#2%*#2('&"#EE(+'%$'4$('7%*#$-.#,$'E(,-.(*H'B.('1, vours follow suit with the black cherry and leather combination, ending 0#-.','$#2('@#+QE($=-.'4$#&.H'

Rosé

MICHAEL PINKUS

Sandbanks 2009 Rosé VQA Ontario This lively pink was selling like hotcakes at the grand opening of Sandbanks' new tasting room in late June. It’s based on cabernet franc, which gives it a lovely raspberrycurrant lift, but has been ;%E&-(*(+';F','-%>2.'?#+,E'=#?#$='#-'0(E2%@('/*>#-#$(&&',$+'P(&-H'I-K&' not a complex wine, but it is very well balanced, juicy and effective. Bought a handful myself.

87 76 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010

DAVID LAWRASON

TASTING NOTES

Lacey Estate 2008 Chardonnay

Whites

Prince Edward County Winemaker Kimball Lacey learned his Chardonnay technique work ing down the road with Deborah Paskus at Closson Chase. There is a very strong resemblance in this deeply golden, long barrelaged edi tion. The nose shows rich butter pecancashew, lemon, butterscotch ,$+'&,""F'0%%+H''B.('%,<'#&',';#-'+%@#$,$-'%$'-.('4$#&.A'0#-.'&%@(' 0%%+'-,$$#$H'I-K&'N>#-('/>EE';%+#(+A'4*@',$+','-%>2.',==*(&&#?(H' Excellent length.

DAVID LAWRASON

Closson Chase ‘Iconoclast’ Chardonnay 2007 Prince Edward County B.#&' #&' 0#$(@,<(*' b(;%*,.' 3,&<>&K' 1,=&.#"' 0#$(' ,$+' .,*<($&' ;,2<' -%' -.(' &-FE(' %/' the iconic TemkinPaskus Chardonnays she made in the 1990s. Not for the faint of heart, this is a bold, fruitsaturated wine that’s redolent of oak spice, pineapple and @(E%$' 1,?%>*&H' I-' 2%@(&' %$' E#<(' ,' 3>E#=$FQM%$-*,2.(-' #$' ,' 0,*@' F(,*A' />EEQ;%+#(+A' voluptuous with a core of sweet fruit. From the warm 2007 vintage great for reds but +#/42>E-'/%*'0.#-(&'Q'-.(*('#&'X>&-',;%>-'($%>=.',2#+#-F'/%*';,E,$2(A';>-','-%>2.'@%*(' would have given the wine more energy. Still, it’s very tasty.

TONY ASPLER

Norman Hardie Cuvee "L" Chardonnay 2008 VQA Ontario This Chardonnay is made from a blend of both Niagara and Prince Edward County fruit in special years; it delivers both power and elegance in a =E,&&H'B.('%">E($-'$%&('.,&'$%-(&'%/'*#"('"(,*A'.,P(E$>-A'&%@('*(&#$',$+','.#$-'%/' allspice. It's restrained and round on the palate. There's a very good balance of rich fruit, acidity and some grip provided by the wellintegrated oak tannins. The 4$#&.'#&'&,-#&/F#$=EF'E%$='0#-.'2#-*>&',$+'@#$(*,E'(E(@($-&H'8%$+(*/>E'$%0'%*'.%E+' on for 35 years. It will pair perfectly with rich seafood dishes.

ANNE MARTIN

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 77

TASTING NOTES

Ice Wine Exultet 2009 Dolce Ghiacciato Ice Wine Prince Edward County It says icewine on the label, so you’ll be expecting super sweet, but that’s only on the nose; the palate has other things in mind. The smell is fresh pineapple and pear that will reel you in. The palate has the gentle sweet ness of poached pears and baked apples with a hint of cinnamon. The acidity level is also nicely balanced. MICHAEL PINKUS

VISIT US ONLINE FOR MORE TASTING NOTES. thecountygrapevine.com

WHERE TO EAT! WHERE TO STAY!

REGIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS Bed and Breakfast Annie’s Sleepytime Inn Belleville, ON. 613.848.0377 prette.anna.7@gmail.com www.bbcanada.com/11434.html Edwardian House Bed & Breakfast 352 Main Street Picton, ON. Phone: 1.613.471.1619 www.bbcanada.com/8170.html Hillsdale House Bed & Breakfast 332 Main Street DE%%@4(E+A'!dH 613.393.2952 dianemilan@sympatico.ca www.bbcanada.com/625.html 000H;E%%@4(E+%$-,*#%H2, Saraswati Wellness Spa 1280 Fry Rd. Prince Edward ON. 613 476.5444 info@saraswatispa.ca www.saraswatispa.ca www.bbcanada.com/12634.html Cottage Rentals Sandbanks Vacations *Various Cottage Rentals 1.877.399.2508 or 613.476.7378 www.sandbanksvacations.com Hotels/Inns The Devonshire Inn on the Lake 24 Wharf Street Wellington, Ontario 1.800.544.9937 or 613.399.1851 www.devonshireinn.com Inn at Huff Estates 2274 County Road 1 DE%%@4(E+A'!$-,*#% 613.393.1414 www.huffestates.com

Hotels/Inns Isaiah Tubbs Resort Neighbourhood: West Lake/Bloom 4(E+ Reservations: (613) 3932063 Address: 1642 County Road 12, Picton, Ontario www.isaiahtubbs.com REGIONAL RESTAURANTS Regional/Elemental French

Bistro/Wine Bar Capers Brasserie Chef: Jeff Camacho Neighbourhood: Belleville, ON. Reservations: 613.968.7979 Address: 272 Front St. Belleville, ON. www.capers.ca East and Main Bistro Chef: Lili Sullivan Neighbourhood: Wellington, ON. Reservations: 613.399.5420 Address: 270 Main St., Wellington www.eastandmain.ca

B.('DE%%@4(E+'7,**#,=('V%>&(' Restaurant Chef: Scott Kapitan d(#=.;%>*.%%+k''DE%%@4(E+A'!dH Reservations: 613.393.1087 L++*(&&k''RhZ'M,#$'6-H'DE%%@4(E+ www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse. com

THE TANGO* Chef: Ian Nichols Neighbourhood: Kingston, ON. Reservations: 1.613.531.0800 Address: 331 King Street East Kingston, ON. www.thetango.ca *50 minutes East of Picton

Restaurant at the Merrill Inn Chef: Michael Sullivan Neighbourhood: Picton, ON. Reservations: 613.476.7451 Address: 343 Main St. Picton www.merrillinn.com

Italian

Restaurant at Isaiah Tubbs Chef: Chris Jones Neighbourhood: West Lake/Bloom 4(E+ Reservations: (613) 3932063 Address: 1642 County Road 12, Picton, Ontario www.isaiahtubbs.com Bistro/Wine Bar Blumen Garden Bistro Chef: Andreas Feller Neighbourhood: Picton. ON. Reservations: 613.476.6841 Address: 647 Hwy. 49 Picton www.blumengardenbistro.com

Casa Dea Estates Chef: Paul Ellis Neighbourhood: Rosehall, ON Reservations: 613.399.3939 Address: 1186 Greer Rd., Hillier www.casadeaestates.com Café The Bean Counter Café 172 Main St. Picton, ON. 613.476.1718 www.beancountercafe.com Harden & Huyse Chocolates 201 Division St. Cobourg, ON. 905.377.9917 www.greatchocolate.com

THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL| 2010 79

80 THE COUNTY GRAPEVINE FALL | 2010