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Cherries!

NEW Ariana Gillis CANADIAN ARTIST

Winery Weddings

Presented by Dairy Farmers of Canada

LOOK FOR

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PUBLISHER/CREATIVE DIRECTOR CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Shannon Bisnaire Deborah Melman-­Clement

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PHOTOGRAPHER/GRAPHIC ARTIST ADVERTISING SALES DIRECTOR ASSOCIATE SALES DIRECTOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

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Peter Law John Puddy Christine Nicholson Deborah Revell, Gwen Smith, Nicholas Wattson

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Grapevine Magazine is published quarterly by Revell Bisnaire Advertising & Publishing Inc.. www.revellbisnaire.com 2SLQLRQV H[SUHVVHG DUH WKDW RI WKH ZULWHU DQG GR QRW UHÁHFW the opinions of Grapevine Magazine.

No part of this publication may be reproduced without written consent by the publisher.

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Personal Injury Civil Litigation Family Law Criminal Defense Disability Claims Auto Accidents Workplace Safety & Insurance Board Appeals

613-­ 967-­9930 613-­967-­9930 www.pcslaw.ca 613-­ 967-­9930

Personal Injury Civil Litigation Family Law Criminal Defense Disability Claims Auto Accidents 161 Front St. Downtown Belleville Workplace Safety & Insurance Board Appeals

161 Front St. Downtown Belleville

www.pcslaw.ca

161 Front St. Downtown Belleville www.pcdlaw.ca

Approachable. Professional. Aggressive.

Personal Injury J Civil Litigation J Family Law Criminal Defense J Disability Claims J Auto Accidents Workplace Safety & Insurance Board Appeals Approachable.

2 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 Professional. Aggressive.

Publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sPUBLISHERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Note NOTE

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rom a publisherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective, the ability to offer our readers and advertisers new and innovative ways to enjoy our content is very exciting. The world of print publishing has expanded to the digital world and our audience can now grow from local and regional to national and international with the click of a button.

$W Ă&#x20AC;UVW , ZDV VNHSWLFDO , PHDQ ZKR KDV DQ L3DG DQ\ZD\" :HOO RYHU D PLOOLRQ SHRSOH WKDW¡V who. So I joined them. And the way I read magazines has evolved too. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get me wrong, QRWKLQJ ZLOO UHSODFH WKH H[SHULHQFH RI Ă LSSLQJ WKURXJK WKRVH JORVV\ SDJHV ZKLOH VZLQJLQJ LQ my hammock, relaxing on the sofa or in the bathtub. (I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bring my iPad in the tub.)

But the iPad is a nice kitchen companion and many use it to scroll through recipes while theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re cooking.

So, this issue we have taken Grapevine Magazine to the next level in a couple of different ways. )LUVWO\ RXU Ă&#x20AC;UVW L3DG DSS LV QRZ DYDLODEOH IRU GRZQORDG RQ L7XQHV 6R LI \RX KDYH DQ L3DG \RX ZLOO Ă&#x20AC;QG RXU QHZ GLJLWDO YHUVLRQ DW KWWS LWXQHV FRP DQG VHDUFK ÂśGrapevine Magazineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. )HDWXUHV LQ RXU GLJLWDO LVVXH LQFOXGH YLGHR PXVLF HDV\ WR IROORZ VFUROOLQJ UHFLSHV DGGLWLRQDO photos and our online/digital exclusive titled Join the Club, written by Angela Aiello. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have an iPad yet, visit our website for additional content.

Secondly, our content has expanded to highlight both local and regional lifestyle activities.

Hey, if California wine country can do it, then so can we. Ontario wine country is putting Canada on the global map, and Grapevine Magazine is Ontario Wine Countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ultimate Lifestyle Magazine.

In this edition, we introduce you to a new young Canadian talent, Ariana Gillis. According to a former Rolling Stone Magazine critic, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ariana Gillis is the best new emerging artist DQ\ZKHUH 3(5,2' Âľ <RX GRQ¡W KDYH WR WDNH KLV ZRUG IRU LW KDYH D OLVWHQ IRU \RXUVHOI $IWHU you read the story, either download our iPad edition or visit grapevinemagazine.ca to hear her song, Simon Brooke.

New to Grapevine Magazine is celebrity chef and television personality Anna Olson. Annaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s column this issue features fresh lavender, and many of our wine regions grow it locally.

It wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be Grapevine Magazine if we didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a wine feature. In this issue, we take you through the journey of one of our own writersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; winery weddings. Maybe youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re thinking of a winery wedding in Ontario wine country. Michael Pinkus knows the ropes and shares his personal experience with you.

Happy summer reading!

Shannon Bisnaire, Publisher/Creative Director shannon@grapevinemagazine.ca

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 3

Savour Summer in the

County

Savour Summer in the

County

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Your Prince Edward County Vacation Specialists 1.877.399.2508 613.393.2424 | 57 Main Street, Bloomfield, Ontario

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Contributors CONTRIBUTORS

Savour the

Taste of The

Our Writers

County ANGELA AIELLO A city girl with country roots, Angela has been immersed in the wine industry for over 12 years. She has a Honours degree in Business Communications from Brock University and founded a free social wine club in Toronto called iYellow Wine Club. She encourages her over 5,500 members to build â&#x20AC;&#x153;wine confidenceâ&#x20AC;? through iYellow wine events, wine school, wine tours, through the online 100% VQA wine store and via the website. She is also the regular wine host for the CBCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Steven & Chris Show and Le Gourmet TV and has been featured in various media such as Cosmo TV, SheDoesTheCity.com, Canada AM, Global TV and The Toronto Star.

Wine tours and much more

NICOLE BERGOT Nicole is a freelance writer and lifestyle and reality television producer. Originally from Vancouver, Nicole lived in New York for five years and attended the Columbia Graduate School of Journalism and worked at CNN. She is now based in Toronto and recently drove the Karakoram Highway through the mountains of northern Pakistan while she was there covering Karachi Fashion Week.

BARRY KEITH GRANT Barry is a professor of film studies and popular culture at Brock University and the founder of the Brock University Film Series. The author of more than 20 books and dozens of articles in magazines, scholarly journals and online, Dr. Grant also wrote the popular weekly column â&#x20AC;&#x153;In Cameraâ&#x20AC;? for the St. Catharines Standard from 1998-­2005. An elected Fellow of the Royal Society of Canada, in 2010 he was the recipient of the Canadian Association of University Teachersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; prestigious Distinguished Academic Award.

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613.393.2424

1.877.399.2508 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 5

Expect the Unusual

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS Our Writers

KarloEstates.com 561 Danforth Road. 613.399.3000 Prince Edward County

DAVID LAWRASON A former Globe and Mail wine columnist, David is the founder of Wine Access and the Canadian Wine Awards. He is currently a wine columnist for Toronto Life, Ottawa Magazine, and WineAlign.com. www.davidlawrason.com

172 Main St, Unit 105 Picton, ON K0K 2T0 613 . 476 . 4 3 5 6 www.g3living.com

NATALIE MACLEAN Ontario native Natalie MacLean was named the World’s Best Drink Writer at the World Food Media Awards and has won four James Beard Journalism awards. Her bestselling book, Red, White and Drunk All Over, was chosen the Best Wine Book at the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards. Natalie offers a free newsletter with wine picks, tips and humour at www.nataliemaclean.com.

JENNIFER MCLAGAN Jennifer McLagan has more than 35 years of experience in the food world and divides her time between Toronto and Paris.

Her book Fat was the most critically acclaimed book of 2008: Best Single Subject Cookbook from the IACP; Cookbook of the Year from James Beard; lead title in the New York Times best of the year round up; starred review in Publishers Weekly. Similarly her first book first book, Bones, won best single-­subject from James Beard and was an IACP finalist. Jennifer's next book Odd Bits, devoted to cooking the rest of the animal, will be published in September. www.jennifermclagan.com or jennifermclagan.blogspot.com.

6 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Take Twenty in the undiscovered Niagara Just one hour south of Toronto, Twenty Valley is home to over 30 awardwinning wineries. Enjoy rolling vineyards, spectacular views, and delicious wine tastings. You won’t find two winery experiences the same, but you will find consistently good wines as you explore.

Feeling a bit peckish? Farm-to-table is a way of life in Twenty Valley. From stylish restaurants to casual bistros, “seasonal” winery patios to roadside farmers’ stands…we have something to tantalize every tastebud. You’ll feel well restored after a Twenty Valley food and wine pairing!

Golfing, shopping, hiking the Bruce Trail or stretched out on a massage table…whatever your form of relaxation, we’ve got you covered. Take your Niagara visit to the next level and enjoy a Twenty Valley experience.

June 4-5:Berries Graze the Bench June18: & Blooms June Berries Blooms Festival June 18: 18-26: New&Vintage June New Vintage Festival July 1:18-26: Canada Day at Charles Daley Park July 1: Canada Day at Charles Daley Park July 5-August 30: Sunset Music Series July 5-August 30: Sunset Music Series July 16-17: Twenty Valley Run, Wine & Dine July 16-17: Twenty Valley Run, Wine & Dine September 11: Niagara Children’s Water Festival September 11: Niagara Children’s Water Festival September16-25: 16-25:Niagara NiagaraWine WineFestival Festival September October1:1:Pioneer PioneerDay DayininJordan Jordan October October7-10: 7-10:Ball’s Ball’sFalls FallsThanksgiving ThanksgivingFestival Festival October November November12-13/19-20/26-27: 12-13/19-20/26-27:Wrapped WrappedUp Upininthe theValley Valley January January14-15: 14-15:Winter WinterWineFest WineFest April April28-29/May 28-29/May5-6: 5-6:Get GetFresh Freshininthe theValley Valley

Visit twentyvalley.ca or call 905.562.3636 for a copy of our visitor’s map.

People say the difference in Twenty Valley wine country is our personal approach. We keep things intimate, so you get more from your visit. You’ll likely find yourself rubbing shoulders with a winemaker or talking shop over a tasting with an owner. But mostly, you’ll find a fresh uncomplicated yet refined Niagara wine experience.

Visit twentyvalley.ca for information about our many wine events.

13th Street Winery Angels Gate Winery Cave Spring Cellars Creekside Estate Winery De Sousa Wine Cellars Fielding Estate Winery

Flat Rock Cellars The Good Earth Food & Wine Co. Harbour Estates Winery Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery Malivoire Wine Company Megalomaniac Wines

Mountain Road Wine Company Peninsula Ridge Estates Winery Rosewood Estate Winery & Meadery Stoney Ridge Estate Winery Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Tawse Winery

Thirty Bench Wine Makers Vineland Estates Winery Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery

Contributors CONTRIBUTORS ANNA OLSON Celebrity chef Anna Olson is most known as host of two cooking programs, Sugar and Fresh with Anna Olson, which air in Canada on Food Network as well as in 40 countries worldwide. She has authored six bestselling cookbooks, two of which were written with her husband, Michael, a well-­ known chef and culinary instructor. Current projects include the launch of a new app, the Olson Recipe Generator, and a new cookbook, Back to Baking, will be released in autumn 2011. She is proud to call Niagara home, and has lived and cooked there for 15 years.

MICHAEL PINKUS Michael Pinkus has had a 20-­year love affair with wine. In early 2005, he left a career in radio and combined his love of writing with his passion for wine to become the head writer and all around grape guy for Ontario Wine Review. His mission was to bring Ontario wines into a more positive light, not just for fellow Ontarians, but for Canadians and wine lovers the world over. www.ontariowinereview.com

JOCELYN ROBERTS A freelance writer and teacher, Jocelyn has a background in the study of literature and creative writing. Passionate about the arts, she is also an avid photographer. She resides in Newmarket, Ontario with her teenage daughters, Sophie and Isabelle, her husband Jean, and their dog, Scout.

JOHN SZABO John is Canada’s first Master Sommelier. He is the author of WineAlign.com’s Vintages Preview and is a principal critic on WineAlign.com. John is part of the Wine Access national tasting panel and a regular contributor to the magazine, and is wine editor for Toronto’s CityBites Magazine. He freelances and is heard regularly on Classical 96.3FM. The rest of his time is spent designing wine programs, teaching, judging and guest speaking around the world. www.johnszabo.com.

8 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SPRING | 2011 9

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This summer, be sure to plan an escape to beautiful, historic and very tasty Prince Edward County. Everything you’ve heard or read about this rural oasis is absolutely true - and it keep’s getting better year after year. Professional vintners, restaurant owners and Innkeepers, all masters of their respective crafts, converge to create tasteful vintages, creative cuisine with locally grown ingredients and well appointed retreats to rest your heads at night. Browse through many funky boutiques and arts and craft galleries on your journey, or spend a sun and sand-drenched day at Sandbanks Park.

But since you’re so very close, why not add

some additional fun and flavour to your most excellent County adventure by scooting east along scenic Highway 33 or down the 401 to historic Kingston – Canada’s First Capital.

Kingston has the distinction of being Ontario’s only World Heritage Destination – home to Fort Henry National Historic Site of Canada, the Rideau Canal and the Kingston Fortifications, designated by UNESCO in 2007. Originally built as a historic navy port, strategically located at the convergence of the mighty St. Lawrence River, Lake Ontario and the Rideau Canal, Kingston is home to many interesting museums, natural woods and waterfront walking trails,

10 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

critically acclaimed festivals and events and .

Kingston boasts home to an eclectic collection of Canadian heroes – from hockey’s Don Cherry and Doug Gilmour, film’s Dan Aykroyd and Hugh Dillon, to music’s Tragically Hip and Sarah Harmer. Star sightings happen often. Kingston was the windy port for Canada’s 1976 Sailing Olympics, the massive tall ship event of 1984 and remains the site for the Canadian Olympic Sailing Regatta, home ice to Canada’s first hockey game and the historic home of Canada’s first Prime Minister, Sir John A. Macdonald.

Our City was built on history, well portrayed in a variety of active museums. Guests are

Event s SUMMER 2011

FORT HENRY SUNSET CEREMONIES Every Wednesday Night, July & August KINGSTON 1000 ISLANDS CRUISES Lunch, Dinner & Sightseeing 1 - 3 hour cruises, May - October FORT HENRY TATTOO The Pipes are Calling! July 23

amazed at bygone discipline rituals displayed at the Penitentiary Museum or learn about the underwater graveyard of over 100 vessels that sailed to this port at the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes. You can scuba dive on these ancient relics – some in Deadman’s Bay. There are 22 museums and many art galleries commemorating creative talent, history, geology, communications, archaeology and military history. We even have a Rembrandt! And guarding the entire city from the highest point of land is Eastern Ontario’s largest heritage tourism attraction, Fort Henry National Historic

music events all summer long not to be missed.

Drift through the world famous 1000 Islands from Kingston’s downtown dock on the glassdomed Island Star, offering lunch and dinner cruises with live entertainment and multilingual commentary or take shorter cruises on the Island Queen or Island Belle, both Mississippi-style paddle wheelers. Get up close up to view of the new Wolfe Island eco-friendly wind farm, sporting 86 giant turbines. Charter a sailboat just a few blocks down the road and sail silently across Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence River for lunch or dinner on Wolfe

US MARINES JOINT CEREMONIAL Fort Henry - August 20 - 21

Site of Canada. Daily interpretive programs educate, engage, enrich and entertain guests including the daily Garrison Pay Parade, Artillery demonstrations and firing plus a fun Children’s Military Muster Parade presented 3 times daily throughout the main season.

Enjoy a rich, historic dining experience with service by Soldier Servants before you see the World Heritage Sunset Ceremonies, presented Wednesday evenings at 7:30 PM in July and August. This year, the U.S. Marines bring their Silent Drill Platoon and Commandant’s Own Drum and Bugle Corps to the site in August.

There are many other exciting interpretive and

Island. Or bring your bike across the free ferry and leisurely peddle the entire island with a stop at Big Sandy Bay for a dip.

Kingston offers hundreds of locally owneroperated boutiques and restaurants. Live music flows from Confederation Park, bordered by historic City Hall and Lake Ontario, a great place to while away the hours as you enjoy an ice cream or a barbecued bite. Summer is alive with the Busker’s Rendezvous, Blues Fest, Arts and Craft Shows, Poker Run Cigarette Boat event or Chile Fest. Kingston’s downtown KROCK Center has presented such world acts as Bryan Adams, The Tragically Hip, Neil Young, k.d. lang, Elton John,

Alan Jackson, Jerry Seinfeld, Leonard Cohen, Anne Murray, Willie Nelson, Gordon Lightfoot, Diana Krall, Bob Dylan and more, offers quality Junior A Hockey and entertainment year round.

This season, while enjoying ‘The County’, plan an extra night stay in Kingston to experience metro culture in one of Canada’s oldest, smaller cities. Book your stay today at visitkingston.ca. or call 1.888.855.4555 to get the goods!

FORT FRIGHT - September 21 - October 29 Amazing animatronics, live ghouls and hidden surprises.

Check our website for upcoming entertainment and cultural events at; www.visitkingston.ca

Contributors

The Waring House & The Regent Theatre present

IAN TYSON

CONTRIBUTORS

Our Writers Thursday, August 25, 2011 The Regent Theatre – Picton

SHELLEY WILDGEN

The

Waring House 613.476. 8416 Ext28 www.TheRegentTheatre.org

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Shelley Wildgen is a freelance writer/announcer. With her kids raised and on their way, Shelley shares her ancient but renovated County schoolhouse rather harmoniously with her husband, Rob, three cats and three dogs. Shelley spent many years as a radio copywriter and has just recently branched out to magazines.

2823 County Road 40 Downtown Wooler 8km North of 401 (Wooler Road Exit) 1-­877-­480-­7434 www.thebirdhouse.ca

Our Photographers STEVEN ELPHICK Steven Elphick is an award-­winning photographer. He won Applied Arts awards in 2007 and 2008, and has been judging wine professionally since 1988. He resides in Toronto with his wife, Paula, and a Cavalier spaniel named Charlie.

Tuesday to Saturday 9:30am – 5:00 pm and Sunday noon-­4:00 pm

www.stevenelphick.com

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JIM NORTON Jim has made his passion for photography his work and today specializes in product, food and still life photography. His photography has won him several Graphis awards and can be found in several national publications including Canadian Living, Cottage Life, Homemakers and Wedding Bells.

12 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

www.jimnortonphoto.com

Features FEATURES 30

CHERRIES Divine cherry recipes for summer by Jennifer McLagan

44

FARM TO TABLE ORIGINALS Ontario philosophies of original farm-­to-­table cuisine with chefs Stephen Treadwell and Andreas Feller

by Jocelyn Roberts

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FEATURE PROFILE Up and coming music artist Ariana Gillis by Nicole Bergot

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THE SHAW FESTIVAL TURNS 50!

Celebrating the golden anniversary of Ontario’s most famous festival theatres by Barry K. Grant

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NICE DAY FOR A WINE WEDDING My Winery Wedding by Michael Pinkus GV MORE WEDDING PHOTOS ONLINE!

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WHAT IT REALLY TAKES TO OPERATE A SUCCESSFUL WINERY IN ONTARIO by John Szabo GV

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Event photos courtesy of Barb Tatarnac

Niagara New Vintage festival June 18-26, 2011 Rediscover St. Cathar es!

TD Tailgate Party 2011

From festivals to fresh local fare, shopping and more, St. Catharines has it all at your doorstep! There’s something happening for all ages.

Check out the full list of events in your City Guide.

Saturday, June 18

Contact us for a FREE City Guide

Join the Grower of the Year in her vineyard and celebrate with over 35 Niagara wineries as they uncork their seasonal best. †

Discovery Pass 2011

For Festival information and to order passes, call 905-688-0212 or visit niagarawinefestival.com

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at tourism@stcatharines.ca, or call 905-688-5601 ext. 1731

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Love Niagara

Departments DEPARTMENTS 3

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

16

AMUSE BOUCHE Dinner Party Wars by Shelley Wildgen

GV 20

DIGITAL EDITION

CALENDAR OF EVENTS GV ONLY ONLINE! A list of seasonal art, culture, food and wine events FAVOURITE THINGS A few of Grapevine Magazine’s favourite things GV EXCLUSIVE TO DIGITAL & ONLINE! JOIN THE CLUB Join the Italian Club by Angela Aiello

24

BEST IN GLASS Our choices in glassware for the season

28

ANNA’S KITCHEN Anna Olson’s seasonal recipe

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A PLEASANT PAIR White Wine Soup paired with regional wines.

41

NAT DECANTS Choosing Bubbly for your Wedding by Natalie MacLean

49

THE ART OF LIVING Wine, herbs and art

80

GV MORE ONLINE! TASTING NOTES Regional Wine Reviews

88

PERSPECTIVES News, views, and reviews by David Lawrason

94

WHERE TO STAY, WHERE TO EAT Regional restaurant and accommodation listings

96

DID YOU KNOW? Fun facts about wine

28 20 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 15

DEPARTMENT AMUSE BOUCHE NAME

Dinner Party

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ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

16 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

AMUSE BOUCHE

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY

MUSIC FESTIVAL September 16-24, 2011 Stéphane Lemelin Artistic director and pianist Ana Sokolovic Composer-in-residence

The Church of St. Mary Magdalene and two other beautiful County venues

For Tickets: www.countytix.ca 613-471-1991 or toll free 1-866-584-1991 www.pecmusicfestival.com

ONTARIO ARTS COUNCIL CONSEIL DES ARTS DE L’ONTARIO

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 17

18 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 19

DEPARTMENT FAVOURITE THINGS NAME

Favourite Things

Summer 2011 is all about colour in the kitchen! Greens so fresh you’ll want to squeeze them right off the page. Juicy fuchsias, splashes of blue ocean, and melon hues make food prep fun and seasonal entertaining festive.

MADE TO MEASURE 7KH &LWUXV .LWFKHQ &ROOHFWLRQ E\ WDJ FRPHV LQ D YLEUDQW IUXLW FR-­ loured palette. Measuring bowls have a footed base and spoons feature a metal ring for easy separation and cleaning.

Available at Waring House Gourmet, 221 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 8134).

20 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

FAVOURITE THINGS

take a Seat WEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;RE PERFORMING IN YOUR NEIGHBOURHOOD EVERYDAY

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The Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest showroom of fireplaces, stoves, & accessories

wood gas corn pellet electri c sales installation free estimates chimney sweeps

ProAlliance Realty, Brokerage INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

124 Main St. Picton (613) 476-9259 www.countyfireplace.ca

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 21

FAVOURITE THINGS

),1(/< 6/,&(' )RRG SUHS LV IXQ ZLWK WKH 6OLFH DQG 'LFH OLQH E\ 0D[ZHOO :LOOLDPV These stainless steel knives come dressed in a non-­stick overcoat blade and protective sheath of refreshingly lively hues. The ergonomic soft touch handle maximizes grip.

Available at Rustic Routes, 20 Mill St., Stirling, Ontario (613 395 2929).

6,33,1* $:$< A patio favourite for both hot and cold beverages, the Sip Cup by Hues and Brews is part of their Sip 2 Go series and is available in an array of punchy colours. The double walls of this sip suavely cup are BPA-­free high quality acrylic. A screw-­on lid and straw base are fashioned with silicone rings to prevent spillage and maintain liquid temperatures.

Available at Susanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Just Because, 280 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 4128).

BUTTON UP Cut individual pieces of cheese with RSVPâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s White Porcelain Cheese Buttons. Includes cow, sheep, and goat shapes. Bring the herd to your next wine and cheese tasting. Dishwasher safe.

Available at The Cheese Truckle, 4226 Drummond Road, , 1LDJDUD )DOOV 2QWDULR

22 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

FAVOURITE THINGS

LETTUCE BEGIN .HHS OHWWXFH IURP EURZQLQJ E\ using a lettuce knife. This option E\ 7UXGHDX IHDWXUHV Ă XWHG EODGHV IRU PD[LPXP HIĂ&#x20AC;FLHQF\ DQG D VRIW comfortable handle. $YDLODEOH DW +RPH 2XWĂ&#x20AC;WWHUV )LUVW Pro Garden Centre, St. Catharines, Ontario, 905 -­346-­0958.

&5$=< '$,6,(6 :KR VD\V à RUDO DUUDQJHPHQWV DUH MXVW IRU YDVHV" 3RUWPHLULRQ¡V &UD]\ Daisy cookware and serving pieces collection comes alive with its fun FRQWHPSRUDU\ à RUDO GHVLJQ 7KLV pretty porcelain is freezer, oven, dishwasher, and microwave safe.

Available at Gilbert & Lighthall Marketplace, 173 Main St., Picton, Ontario (613 476 3131).

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 23

Glass BEST IN C

oloured, crystal or printed, this is the Best in Glass for summer dining and décor.

STANDS OUT

An ethereal beauty, Swarovski’s two-­tiered crystalline cake stand displays petit fours, dessert fruits and confections with sophistication. Six hundred crystals congregate in the central column that supports two glass plates and a show-­stopping fully-­cut crystal top.

Available at Swarovski, Pen Centre, 221 Glendale Avenue, St. Catharines, 905-­ 687-­6622 or online at www.swarovski.com.

24 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

BEST IN GLASS

252-­256  Princess  St. Â

1880  John  Counter  Blvd. Â

Downtown  Kingston  Â

Kingston

613.548.3022 Â Â

613.544.4415

JAMES  REID Fine  Furniture  Since  1854 Weekly  Deliveries  to  Prince  Edward  County.

STAINED GLASS )URP *LIWFUDIW¡V 6XPPHU %ULJKWV Collection, these tinted glass jug-­ style vases catch the eye and hold your garden posies. Each stands approximately ten inches. $YDLODEOH DW 7HUUD )ORUHQV 0DLQ 6W %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG

Factory  Authorized  Sale

DURHAM Handcrafted  solid  wood  furniture  since  1899.

Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s leader in solid wood furnishings.

613.476.8872 1.877.874.4418 92 Talbot St. Picton terravista@kos.net landscape construction & supplies

$ ),1( 3$,5 Clean-­lined, classic silhouette, these are gorgeous on their own, and exquisite as a pair, left empty, RU Ă&#x20AC;OOHG ZLWK OHPRQV DSSOHV OLODFV hydrangeas, gladiolus or anything else you can think of! 20â&#x20AC;? Heroic Glass Urn, Available at G3 Living, 172 Main Street, Picton Ontario 613-­476-­4356

LANDSCAPE CONSTRUCTION Award Winning Landscape Professional Design & Implementation Residential & Commercial Construction www.terravistalandscape.com

LANDSCAPE SUPPLIES Top Soil Triple Mix Cedar Mulch Granular Materials Riverstone and Peastone Natural Limestone Masonry and Polymeric Joint Sand PICK UP AND DELIVERY.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 25

BEST IN GLASS

&5<67$/ CLEAR Make spring drinks sparkle with a duo of crystalline cocktail glasses

by Swarovski. Clear crystal FKDWRQV HOHJDQWO\ Ă&#x20AC;OO WKH stem. The base is stunningly crafted by a large-­faceted clear crystal.

,&( %5($.(5 The Bormioli Rocco Moncayo Mini Ice Bucket by Trudeau is ideal for small living spaces or sharing a beverage for two. Tongs included.

Available at Swarovski, Pen Centre, 221 Glendale Avenue, St. Catharines, 905-­ 687-­6622 or online at www. swarovski.com.

$YDLODEOH DW 7KH %D\ *DUGLQHUV 5G .LQJVWRQ (613 384 3888).

&DOO ZZZ QLDJDUDSDVVLRQ FRP

Niagara s Premier Event

:LQH )RRG -D]]

Saturday August 27 12:30 - 5:00 Mori Gardens Niagara-on-the-Lake Tickets $100 with a 65% Charitable Tax Receipt

18 Celebrity Chefs & 26 World Class Wineries &DOO ZZZ QLDJDUDSDVVLRQ FRP 26 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

BEST IN GLASS

%$&.<$5' BUGS Stemless or goblet style, Zoom wine glasses by Abbott are sure to create a backyard buzz with WKHLU JUHHQ GUDJRQĂ \ GHVLJQ Available at Gilbert & Lighthall Marketplace, 173 Main St., Picton, (613 476 3131).

â&#x20AC;&#x153;If you are choosing just one restaurant in Niagara Wine Country to try, this ...should be the one.â&#x20AC;?

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IMITATION IS 7+( 6,1&(5(67 )250 2) )/$77(5< A nostalgic remake, these vintage-­cut acrylic goblets are available in clear or a charming modern pink. $YDLODEOH DW <RQJH 6WUHHW :LQHU\ <RQJH 6WUHHW $XURUD RU +XPEHU 9DOOH\ :LQHU\ 4XHHQVJDWH %OYG % %ROWRQ

treadwellcuisine.com 905.934.9797 Catering Services Available

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 27

ANNAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN

Annaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Kitchen %< $11$ 2/621 Â&#x2021; 3+272*5$3+< %< 5<$1 6=8/&

LAVENDER CHEESECAKE MOUSSE TARTS

7KHVH LQGLYLGXDO WDUWV KDYH D OLJKW DQG Ă XII\ QR EDNH FKHHVHFDNH Ă&#x20AC;OOLQJ DQG WKH accent of lavender complements any fresh fruit you choose to serve with them.

28 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

ANNA’S KITCHEN

RECIPE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

LIFE IN THE MOMENT

INTRODUCING THE 2011 LEXUS RX 350

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GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 29

Cherries!

STORY BY JENNIFER MCLAGAN

30 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 31

RECIPE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

32 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Cherry Clafoutis %< -(11,)(5 0&/$*$1 Â&#x2021; 3+272*5$3+< %< -,0 125721

A simple dessert, that is quick to make, and a good way to use ripe cherries.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 33

Grilled Quail :,7+ &+(55< 6$8&(

%< -(11,)(5 0&/$*$1 Â&#x2021; 3+272*5$3+< %< -,0 125721

Spatchcocked quails cook quickly on the grill and you can have your butcher prepare them for you.

RECIPE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION.

Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 35

RECIPE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

Cherry Sangria %< -(11,)(5 0&/$*$1 3+272*5$3+< %< -,0 125721

This is a refreshing drink for a warm summer’s day.

36 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Living with Style SINCE 1930 <RXU LQYHVWPHQW SRUWIROLR VKRXOG EH PDGH XS RI JRRG DGYLFH 86 King St. W Cobourg

905-372-9224

www.tuggsfurniture.com

Do you know what investments you own and why?

Are you worried about your retirement savings?

Your  investment  portfolio  should  be   How recently has your portfolio been rebalanced? made  up  of  100%  good  advice.

If you feel that your investing confidence Â&#x2021; 'R \RX NQRZ ZKDW LQYHVWPHQWV \RX has waveredRZQ DQG ZK\" over the last year, a Â&#x2021; $UH \RX ZRUULHG DERXW \RXU  6HFRQG 2SLQLRQ could be the best UHWLUHPHQW VDYLQJV" financial decision youÂ&#x2019;â&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made in a Â&#x2021; +RZ UHFHQWO\ KDV \RXU SRUWIROLR EHHQ  long time. UHEDODQFHG" ,I \RX IHHO WKDW \RXU LQYHVWLQJ FRQÂżGHQFH KDV &DOO WRGD\ IRU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ ZDYHUHG RYHU WKH ODVW \HDU D Second  Opinion  Julie Lange, Wealth Advisor FRXOG EH WKH EHVW ÂżQDQFLDO GHFLVLRQ \RXÂśYH PDGH LQ D ORQJ WLPH 613-968-2467 or 1-800-810-9378

&DOO WRGD\ IRU PRUH LQIRUPDWLRQ

)URQW 6W 6 -XOLH /DQJH %UDQFK 0DQDJHU or %HOOHYLOOH 21 . 1 <

)URQW 6W 6Â&#x2021; %HOOHYLOOH 21 Â&#x2021; . 1 < 5HJLVWHUHG WUDGHPDUN RI 7KH %DQN RI 1RYD 6FRWLD XVHG E\ 6FRWLD0F/HRG XQGHU OLFHQVH 6FRWLD0F/HRG LV D GLYLVLRQ RI 6FRWLD &DSLWDO ,QF 6FRWLD &DSLWDO ,QF LV D 0HPEHUÂą&DQDGLDQ ,QYHVWRU 3URWHFWLRQ )XQG * Registered trademark of Bank of Nova Scotia, used by ScotiaMcLeod under licence. ScotiaMcLeod is a division of Scotia Capital Â&#x160;

Inc. a Member-Canadian Investor Protection Fund.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 37

FRENCH COUNTRY presents

Pewter martini glasses 255 Main Street Picton, Ontario 613-­476-­7775 www.frenchcountry.ca

DEPARTMENT A PLEASANTNAME PAIR

A Pleasant Pair Summer White Wine Soup

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 39

A PLEASANT PAIR

SUMMER WHITE WINE SOUP

3DLULQJ 5HFRPPHQGDWLRQV (BY REGION)

INGREDIENTS 750 mL bottle (or 3 cups) medium-­dry white wine 2 cinnamon sticks Zest of one lemon 3 whole cloves 4 egg yolks 3/4 cup (175 mL) water 2 tbsp (30mL) granulated sugar Crisp crackers and chives for garnish

Â&#x2021; 6SUXFHZRRG 6KRUHV &KDUGRQQD\

METHOD In a medium saucepan, over medium heat, add wine, cinnamon sticks, lemon zest and cloves. Cover and heat until nearly boiling. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.

While soup simmers, whisk egg yolks, water and sugar together until creamy. Once the soup has simmered for 15 minutes, reduce heat to low. Slowly add a little of the egg yolk mix at a time, constantly whisking to prevent eggs from curdling.

Turn heat back up to medium to reheat. Let the soup thicken a bit, then strain. Ladle into small elegant bowls, and serve immediately with crisp crackers and chives for garnish.

Makes 4 servings.

40 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

/DNH (ULH 2QWDULR 32,176 0,&+$(/ 3,1.86

Â&#x2021; 3RQGYLHZ %HOOD 7HUUD &KDUGRQQD\

Niagara, Ontario, 89 POINTS, DAVID LAWRASON

Â&#x2021; &ORVVRQ &KDVH .- :DWVRQ 9LQH\DUG &KDUGRQQD\ 3ULQFH (GZDUG &RXQW\ 2QWDULR 32,176 0,&+$(/ 3,1.86

NAT DECANTS

A Sparkling Romance

Choosing the right bubbly for your wedding

%< 1$7$/,( 0$&/($1

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

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NAT DECANTS

67</( <28 /29(

Quality You Can Count On

www.countrytime.ca %HGURRP 'LQLQJ +RPH 2IILFH (QWHUWDLQPHQW *LIWV 4XLOWV 0DWWUHVVHV $UHD 5XJV Our specialty is Ontario-made solid-wood furniture that has been meticulously handcrafted

by Canadian artisans especially for you. Visit our 30,000 sq ft of showrooms and you will also see quality, Canadian-made leather and fabric sofas, sectionals, chairs and recliners by Elran, Kroehler, Superstyle, Trend-line and Ferretti.

KINGSTON - 1245 Midland Avenue, Kingston, ON tel. 613.634.1400 toll free. 1.888.819.6990 OUTLET STORE - 1478 Unity Road, Glenburnie, ON tel. 613.547.5445 NEWEST LOCATION - 3039 Hwy 29, Brockville, ON tel 613-342-0222

PRINZEN FORD WORKING FOR A GREENER

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SIXTH YEAR PRODUCING

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HYBRID SUV

Prinzen Ford is now an Authorized ‘Hybrid’ Sales and Service Centre in Prince Edward County

PRINZEN 613-393-3318

Bloomfield Supporting the County since 1983

42 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

PRINZEN

NAT DECANTS

Armitage

Fine Homes Ltd. GENERAL CONTRACTOR

9DQ %ODULFRP *RUVOLQH +RXVH &LUFD 5HVWRUDWLRQ

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

As seen in

The Settlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream 3RVW %HDP &RQVWUXFWLRQ 7ULSOH %ULFN 'LVWLQFW $UFKLWHFWXUDO )HDWXUHV c: 613-­885-­3200 H NHYLQ#DUPLWDJHÃ&#x20AC;QHKRPHV FRP DUPLWDJHÃ&#x20AC;QHKRPHV FRP

®

PRECAST CONCRETE PRODUCTS Â&#x2021; ,17(5/2&.,1* 3$9,1* 6721(6 Â&#x2021; 5(6,'(17,$/ $1' &200(5&,$/ &85%,1* Â&#x2021; 6(37,& 7$1.6 Â&#x2021; :(// 7,/( Â&#x2021; 67(36 5$,/,1*6 Â&#x2021;6,'(:$/. 3$7,2 6/$%6

55 %HOOHYLOOH 21 . 1 =

1-800-267-2851 _ )D[

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 43

&+() 67(3+(1 75($':(//

Farm to Table Originals %< -2&(/<1 52%(576 Â&#x2021; 3+272*5$3+< %< 67(9(1 (/3+,&.

D

o you remember a time when you discovered somethingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;maybe a URFN EDQG RU D EXUJHRQLQJ WUHQG LQ PXVLF RU IDVKLRQÂłDQG IRU D Ă HHWLQJ PRPHQW \RX RZQHG LW" :KDWHYHU LW ZDV LW ZDV JRRG <RX NQHZ LW DQG even though you didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t create it, you were the savvy trend-­spotter who ORYHG LW Ă&#x20AC;UVW EURXJKW LW KRPH WR \RXU SHRSOH ,W ZDV WKH EHJLQQLQJ RI VRPH-­ thing popular and you loved the idea way before anyone else cared about it. And you were passionate, and it was really good.

44 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

The farm-­to-­table concept is as old as the first hunter-­gatherers so, obviously, Chef Stephen Treadwell did not invent the idea, but his devotion to it, long before it gained popular recognition in 1RUWK $PHULFD GHĂ&#x20AC;QLWHO\ PDNHV him a visionary.

The trend in these parts over sev-­ eral decades has been to import food from whatever corners of the world supply it, for the least amount of money. Chefs now are going back to basics, buying farm-­ fresh fare from local growers, and their reasons for eschewing the food terminals (the one in Toronto is the size of a small country) vary.

Most do it for the environmental, communal, and nutritional ben-­ HĂ&#x20AC;WV EXW DFFRUGLQJ WR 7UHDGZHOO some are doing it better than oth-­ ers. Remember, restaurants are businesses and a trend is a trend. )HZ FKHIV KH VD\V DUH WKH UHDO deal. Some are on the slow food bandwagon, paying lip service to a growing movement, touting farm-­to-­table tenets for market-­ ing purposes without the passion and authenticity needed to keep people coming back. His message is impassioned because he cares, and while his colleagues in the industry may bristle at his outspo-­ ken delivery, they cannot dispute that the man walks the walk.

Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is an immigrantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s story.

He arrived here in the 1980s from England with a couple of suitcases and a youthful sense of adventure.

After training in England, as well as in Switzerland and Sweden, he landed in Toronto where he worked his way to what became a lengthy stint as Chef de Cuisine at Auberge GX 3RPPLHU IURP WR <RX can read about what followed on his website: an impressive stack of credentials earned at the likes of

The Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Landing Inn, where he established the Tiara Dining Room as â&#x20AC;&#x153;one of the top hotel dining rooms in Canada.â&#x20AC;? Long story short, he established himself in Niagara-­on-­the-­Lake, teamed up with Si Wai Lai, Niagaraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s â&#x20AC;&#x153;hotelier of historic proportions,â&#x20AC;? built some strong working relationships with top local suppliers and now he is WKH 7UHDGZHOO LQ 7UHDGZHOO )DUP to Table Cuisine in Port Dalhousie.

With his son, James, one of Cana-­ daâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top sommeliers, by his side, he opened Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in 2006 in the old Albertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Restaurant building to rave reviews.

With simple, well executed, European-­inspired local cuisine, Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expectations of him-­ selfâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and therefore othersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are high: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a small guy who was told from the beginning that I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t make a go of this, but hard work works. I keep it simple, no BS.â&#x20AC;? His peak-­season staff of 36 dwindles in the off-­season to 15. He describes himself as â&#x20AC;&#x153;doing okayâ&#x20AC;? in an indus-­ try where few get rich unless they HQMR\ D GHĂ&#x20AC;QLWLRQ RI VXFFHVV WKDW is broader than their bottom line.

Treadwell sees success as support-­ ing the local growers who bring the produce right to his back door. If all he can get is root vegetables in January, then his mission is to make the best of those root vegetables, and this culinary alchemy is what keeps his clientele coming back.

Word-­of-­mouth has given him a IDQWDVWLF Ă&#x20AC;YH \HDU UXQ ZLWK PRUH than half of his patrons making the trek from the GTA. What makes Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s click even in the off season when most of the regional restaurants snuff their RYHQV IRU WKH ZLQWHU" 7KH FKHI VD\V it is authenticity, hard work, and a steadfast mutual commitment between him and local growers

Artisans of hand crafted cheese made from pure Guernsey milk 4159 Jordan Road Jordan Station ON L0R 1S0 T: 905 562 9730 F: 905 562 9858 Visit us at www.uppercanadacheese.com

4HKL >P[O

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Chardonnay VQA Collection TEMV XLMW RIGOPEGI [MXL E ½ RI ZMRXEKI

notlwinejewelry.com

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 45

and suppliers. He is outspoken about his peers in the industry, but it is easy to see through his frustra-­ tion. He is a passionate man who knows what needs to be done for the sake of all the players, from grower to consumer and full circle to the planet we call home. He EHOLHYHV Ă&#x20AC;HUFHO\ LQ KLV UHVSRQVLELO-­ ity to provide consistent quality, to entice the customers to take culinary risks and expand their sen-­ sibilities beyond what he sees as low expectations among restau-­ rant clientele in Canada. While popular chain restaurants have their highlights, it is important for diners to know there is more out there. Treadwell believes the con-­ sumer will tolerate slightly higher prices if we know what it takes to produce, prepare, and serve food that is, quite frankly, better, fresher, and more sustainable than what we think is good because it is all we know.

Sommelier son James describes Treadwell as â&#x20AC;&#x153;old schoolâ&#x20AC;?, an artist with a visionary focus that extends beyond his own personal success to the industry at large. Local food prices are coming down and people are reverting back to the traditional principals of eating â&#x20AC;&#x201C; that local ingredients are more than just a passing trend. It is being seen as a far-­reaching solution to myriad environmental and eco-­ nomic concerns, a solution that is healthier for all of us and a much better culinary experience at the same time.

&+() $1'5($6 )(//(5

46 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Meanwhile, in Prince Edward County, another chef is quietly making a name for himself as a farm-­to-­table pioneer. Andreas )HOOHU FKHI DQG RZQHU RI %OXPHQ Bistro in Picton, relies on fresh local ingredients to help him create a restaurant that is a feast for all

Ă&#x20AC;YH VHQVHV %RDVWLQJ RQH RI 3LF-­ tonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s few outdoor patios as well as sprawling romantic garden tended by the chef himself, Blu-­ men doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait for summertime to make a lasting impression. )HOOHU OHIW KLV QDWLYH 6ZLW]HUODQG as a young man in a bold bid to avoid conscription, but not before completing a gruelling apprentice-­ ship at the prestigious Landgasthof Adler hotel and restaurant under Chef Alex Zuger. He describes Zuger as both brilliant and loath-­ some, despised by his apprentices for his overwhelming expectations.

'HFDGHV ODWHU )HOOHU FUHGLWV KLV mentorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s merciless work ethic with much of his own success, lament-­ ing only the lack of such rigorous training for young chefs today. )HOOHU PDGH KLV ZD\ WR WKLV SDUW RI the world via Venezuela, where he spent 10 years following his depar-­ ture from Switzerland in 1991. He arrived in Ottawa in 2001 after a friend of a friend tipped him off about a job at The Mill, which has since closed. This led to a sous chef position at Restaurant 18 in Ottawaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Byward Market, where he waited out his immigration VWDWXV )URP WKHUH KH PRYHG RQ to CafĂŠ Paradiso on Bank Street until 2006, when he and part-­ ner Melissa decided to start up WKHLU RZQ HVWDEOLVKPHQW 7KHLU Ă&#x20AC;UVW instincts were to settle on the east coast, but instead they found what so many other chefs and artisans know as the perfect fit: all the beauty and potential of a coastal lifestyle with the community neces-­ sary for success in the restaurant business. They found The County.

7KH )HOOHUV DFTXLUHG WKHLU 3LFWRQ property in the early spring of 2007 and began extensive renovations, mostly with their own hands.

Let us amaze you!

/&8 /"1"/&& 4)08300. /08 01&/ "5 (00%:&"3 30"%

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GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 47

INTRODUCING THE 2011 CADILLAC CTS COUPE

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Your Only True Luxury Brand in the Areaâ&#x20AC;?

508/$&/53& %3*7& t )8: #&--&7*--& 1 km north of the 401

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They opened a year later and from day one, both the local and tour-­ ist communities have embraced them with gusto. When asked what keeps them coming back, he credits â&#x20AC;&#x153;honest food for hon-­ est value,â&#x20AC;? cooked in-­house with a staff that goes out of its way to accommodate people. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Every-­ one gets what they like. We are never skimpy.â&#x20AC;? Modern home-­style cooking with a strong foundation LQ )UHQFK FXLVLQH OHDQV OLJKW DQG Mediterranean in summer months, and heartily old-­style, but far from common, come winter.

Adapting from a European eating style to a western one has been a FKDOOHQJH IRU )HOOHU ´,Q 6ZLW]HUODQG the main meal was midday and everyone came home to enjoy it, so we took our time. Here in Can-­ ada, people eat either at work or expect quick service on the run.â&#x20AC;?

Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s had to adapt his labourious cooking style to quicker service at lunchtime, especially in winter.

Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why he loves the summer: he gets to slow down for visitors able to unwind and enjoy the experi-­ ence as well as the food. /LNH 7UHDGZHOO )HOOHU KDV FXOWLYDWHG strong bonds with local suppliers and growers, and he credits them with making his job easier, since KH QHYHU KDV WR WUDYHO IDU WR Ă&#x20AC;QG high-­quality produce, meats and cheeses.

What you will experience at both of these special Ontario restau-­ rants is a family business with a vested interest in the kind of pros-­ perity that radiates outward from WKH Ă&#x20AC;UHV RI WKHLU RZQ SDVVLRQ WR the wealth and accomplishment of the community at large. Con-­ sistency, quality, and passion in co-­operation with Mother Nature FRPH WRJHWKHU IRU D Ă&#x20AC;QH VLW GRZQ where it all began. GV

48 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

THE ART OF LIVING

3$,17,1*6 %< 686$1 :$//,6

The Art of Herbs and Wine (with excerpts from The Art of Herbs, soon to be released)

T

KH &UHDWLYH $UWV Ă&#x20AC;HOG KDV WUDGLWLRQDOO\ EHHQ WKH UHDOP RI SDLQWHUV VFXOSWRUV and writers. When it comes to food and wine, that same prestige can be ap-­ SOLHG WR WKH FUHDWLRQ RI Ă&#x20AC;QH ZLQHV RU UHFLSHV 1R PDWWHU WKH PHGLXP WKH JOXH that binds the continuum of creativity is in the hands and soul of the artist. In the kitchen, art studio or wine cave, the creatorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s masterpiece is born from a place of passion and the joy of the journey.

In Prince Edward County, the creative economy encompasses this whole spectrum. In many areas we collaborate and mix media to create something greater than the sum RI LWV SDUWV )URP UHVWDXUDQW DQG ZLQHU\ SDUWQHUVKLSV WR DUWV WUDLOV DQG HVWDEOLVKPHQWV WKDW feature functional household art pieces, food, wine and art overlap in a myriad of ways.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 49

THE ART OF LIVING T H E

B L O O M F I E L D

CARRIAGE HOUSE R E S T A U R A N T

C A S U A L L U N C H FINE DINING DINNER TA K E AWAY BA K E RY

6 1 3 . 3 9 3 . 1 0 8 7 S E A S O NA L H O U R S 2 6 0 M A I N S T R E E T BLOOMF IELD ~ ONTAR IO www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse.com

One such project, to be launched this summer at Mad Dog Gallery in Prince Edward County, is a col-­ laboration between Susan Wallis of Melt Studios and Cynthia Peters RI )URP WKH )DUP &RRNLQJ 6FKRRO )RU WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW WLPH WKH\ DUH FUHDWLQJ an â&#x20AC;&#x153;art cookbook.â&#x20AC;? Titled The Art of Herbs, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a journal of recipes and encaustic paintings that will show-­ case both the visual and culinary EHDXW\ RI Ă&#x20AC;YH KHUEV $ QXPEHU RI local food and wine artists will also share their thoughts on the subject, LQFOXGLQJ &KHI -DPLH .HQQHG\ SUR-­ ducer Vicki Emlaw of Vickiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Veggies to wine maker James Lahti of Long Dog Vineyard and Winery.

ZLWK WKHLU ´Ă&#x20AC;QHV KHUEVÂľ JURXSLQJ RI tarragon, chervil, chives and pars-­ OH\ )URP FRPSRXQG EXWWHUV WR YLQ-­ egars to sauces, this classic combo is essential to many of their dishes.

Beyond our vision, our palate also GHĂ&#x20AC;QHV ZKDW PDUULHV ZHOO HVSH-­ cially when one analyses the layers RI Ă DYRXUV LQ IRRG DQG ZLQH ZLWK D particular ingredient. Herbs, fresh or dry, have gained popularity over the last few years with the rise of the local food movement. If you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a green thumb, theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re the easiest of all crops to grow, no mat-­ WHU ZKHUH \RX OLYH )URP D KHDOWK perspective, they also give you that SRS RI Ă DYRXU WKDW DOORZV \RX WR reduce salt in your diet. And as a bonus, many herbs have medicinal properties as well.

While many fresh herbs are best added at the end of the cooking SURFHVV WR H[WUDFW WKH PRVW Ă DYRXU several can stand up and make a VLJQLĂ&#x20AC;FDQW FRQWULEXWLRQ GXULQJ FRRN-­ ing. Tarragon, for instance, while GHOLFDWH LQ WRXFK DQG Ă DYRXU FDQ withstand heat for short periods.

Pairing of herbs with particular foods is as key as pairing with wine. By adding herbs into the pairing equa-­ tion, we create a more layered and FRPSOH[ Ă DYRXU RIIHULQJ IRU WKH meal. Building from the wine side instead of the food is a novel way WR H[SHULPHQW )RU WKRVH WKDW WDNH equal pleasure in preparing a meal from both the wine and food per-­ spectives, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a creative approach to preparing the best tasting experi-­ ence for your guests.

)RU FHQWXULHV IUHVK KHUEV DQG VSLFHV KDYH FUHDWHG D ´WKUHDG RI Ă DYRXUÂľ that binds cuisines around the world LQ D FRPPRQ SXUVXLW RI XQLTXH Ă D-­ YRXU SURĂ&#x20AC;OHV )URP ,QGLDQ FXUULHV WR Moroccan tagines, the pairing of KHUEV WR VSHFLĂ&#x20AC;F IRRG DQG ZLQH LV HVVHQWLDO LQ RUGHU WR Ă&#x20AC;QG WKH ULJKW balance and make the most of any dish.

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The artistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palette is blessed with a wide spectrum of fresh herbs to choose from. Parsley, basil and chives, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;foundation herbsâ&#x20AC;? as I like to call them, can be incorporat-­ ed into nearly every dish. Their ver-­ satility in pairing with wine and other IRRGV LV WKH HDVLHVW E\ IDU 7KH )UHQFK have long embraced this practice

50 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Other herbs that stand strong on their own are rosemary and corian-­ der (also known as cilantro). People either love them or hate them. . If you just wash and chop coriander on a board, its scent will engulf the room. A little can add a lot. I love this herb and all its parts in cook-­ LQJ )URP WKH OHDYHV DQG VWHP WR the root and seeds, this robust herb works wonders in many Asian and Mediterranean dishes.

The general guidelines for pairing DUH )RU OLJKW ZKLWH ZLQHV FKRRVH GHOLFDWH GLVKHV Ă&#x20AC;VK DQG FKLFNHQ

that are poached or steamed, SHUKDSV ZLWK D OLJKW VDXFH )RU IXOO bodied whites and medium reds, stir fried, sautÊed, baked or lightly roasted or grilled dishes (chicken, pork and lamb) work best. And for full-­bodied reds, go with braised, deep roasted or grilled heavier meats (beef or lamb). Some herbs work with a number of wines, while others tend to marry well with just one or two categories. GV

THE ART OF LIVING

White Wines

Red Wines

Light

Full body

Medium

Full Body

Sauvignon Blanc Pinot Gris, Riesling Unoaked Chard Gewürztraminer Sparkling Wine

Oaked Chard

Pinot Noir Merlot Rose Baco Noir

Cab Franc Cab Sav Malbec

Tarragon, Cilantro Chervil, Dill, Chives

Thyme, Basil, Lovage Parsley, Lemon Balm Chives

Parsley, Sage, Thyme Basil, Oregano

Rosemary, Sage Thyme

Fish/seafood Chicken

Fish/seafood Chicken/fowl Veal

Pork, Chicken Lamb, Veal

Beef Lamb

Preparation Poached Steamed Light sauté (Light sauces)

Preparation: Sauté, Baked Lightly grilled Lightly roasted (Tomato or heavier sauces)

Preparation: Baked, Roasted Grilled (Tomato or heavier sauces)

Preparation: Braised Deep Roast

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 51

Ariana Gillis

%< 1,&2/( %(5*27 3+272*5$3+< %< 67(9(1 (/3+,&.

Â

Summer

PROFILE

P

icture this heart-­wrenching scenario: Boy meets girl. No sooner do they fall madly in love, than he has to leave her to JR DQG Ă&#x20AC;JKW LQ D ZDU 6KH VRRQ JHWV news that heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dead â&#x20AC;&#x201D; heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been killed in action. But she doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe it, and waits for him to UHWXUQ <HDUV JR E\ +HU IULHQGV WHOO her sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crazy. Her family tells her to move on. But she doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t give up, and waits for her love to come back.

Sure enough, four years after he was sent to war, he shows up on her doorstep. This story of tragedy and triumph, love lost and found, is the stuff of novels and screen-­ SOD\V $ULDQD *LOOLV PDQDJHV WR Ă&#x20AC;W it into a four minute folk song called Simon Brooke. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I like songs that tell VWRULHV Âľ VKH VD\V ´+RZ \RX FDQ Ă&#x20AC;W a novel into a three-­minute song, a beautiful story with a beginning, PLGGOH DQG HQG"Âľ *LOOLV LV PDNLQJ a name for herself as much for her yarn spinning as for her sweet voice, unique style and catchy PXVLF +HU Ă&#x20AC;UVW IXOO OHQJWK DOEXP To Make It Make Sense, is full of stories.

Another song on the album, High-­ way, is a folksy song about a young man from Port Colborne, Tyler Crooks, who died while on duty in Afghanistan. Gillis happened to

DQG KH GHĂ&#x20AC;QLWHO\ VKRXOGQ¡W KDYH died over there for a cause I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe in.â&#x20AC;?

She lists Bob Dylan and Patty Grif-­ Ă&#x20AC;Q DPRQJ KHU IDYRXULWHV DQG OLNH them she infuses politics into many of her songs. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not out protest-­ ing the war,â&#x20AC;? she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m writing

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music about it. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m about making people question things, and think for themselves.â&#x20AC;? Those are strong words for a young woman all of 20 years who still lives at home a half an hour from Niagara with her par-­ ents and two sisters. Her lack of real life experience doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t keep her

Serving a mouth-watering selection of gourmet coffees, teas, soups, sandwiches, ice cream, and our very own handmade Belgian chocolates, a family tradition since 1983.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not out protesting the war. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m writing music about it. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m about making people question things, and think for themselves.â&#x20AC;?

EH LQ WUDIĂ&#x20AC;F DORQJ WKH +LJKZD\ RI Heroes when the hearse carrying Crooksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; body drove by. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The whole experience was moving,â&#x20AC;? she remembers. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Every single bridge from the airport to Cobourg was FRYHUHG ZLWK SHRSOH DQG Ă DJV Âľ She didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know Crooks, but went home and wrote the song. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have much information on him,â&#x20AC;? she says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;but he was a young man

from writing songs about deeply held convictions, though. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always been a deep thinker,â&#x20AC;? she says.

Maybe itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the fresh country air, or the time she spends alone that gives her the space to think about life and form her opinions. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s XQXVXDO WKDW ZD\ VHHPLQJO\

DOWNTOWN COBOURG Located steps away from the Cobourg Beach and Marina at: 201 Division St. T 905.377.9917 Eat in or take out.

Large patio

W W W. G R E AT C H O C O L AT E . C O M

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 53

PROFILE

Download the Grapevine Magazine iPad app from iTunes and listen to Ariana’s Simon Brooke. If you don’t have an iPad, listen online at grapevinemagazine.ca.

PRESENTED BY

SUPPORTED BY MAJOR LOCAL SPONSORS

THURSDAY, AUGUST 18 Peter Appleyard, a salute to Benny Goodman

FRIDAY, AUGUST 19 Ranee Lee & Guido Basso

SATURDAY, AUGUST 20 The Mike Murley Septet

SUNDAY, AUGUST 21 The Brian Barlow Big Band, a tribute to the Count and the Duke 8:00 pm, Regent Theatre in Picton Tickets, $38/night • Regent Theatre box office 613.476.8416 ext 28 or 1.877.411.4761 www.pecjazz.org

unaffected by the more frivolous topics that occupy the brains of many 20-­year-­old women. “I don’t really care about social gath-­ erings,” she says. “I care about family and friends, but I’d rather be alone, and standing for what I believe in.” Her style speaks to her sense of individuality: spiky hair WKDW ÁXFWXDWHV EHWZHHQ VKDGHV of pink and blonde, and vintage gowns with sneakers make for a unique look. Gillis had a severe pneumonia for three months at 17, and wondered at the time if she’d get through it. “I’d wake up in the middle of the night and I couldn’t breathe,” she recalls. “That was

54 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

the turning point for me. Music became more important to me, and I knew that was how I wanted to change people and change the world.”

Politics aside, it’s the catchy way her music blends pop and folk that is getting Gillis recognition. Last \HDU VKH ZRQ <RXQJ 3HUIRUPHU RI WKH <HDU DW WKH &DQDGLDQ )RON Awards, and nabbed the Album of WKH <HDU DQG 7RS )HPDOH 9RFDOLVW at the 2010 Niagara Music Awards.

When she explains her music, she says, “it’s like new age folk, folk with an edge. It’s fun, and it’s a good time.” She records her music

PROFILE

Available for your iPhone, Blackberry and Android device.

See What Everyone is Talking About...

Natalie MacLeanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Wine in her parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; home studio, and her dad plays guitar in the band.

When asked how often the band practices, she says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when-­ ever we feel like it. We pull out our guitars and start playing.â&#x20AC;? The momentum seems to be growing, and she might be at the precipice of something big. But for now, Gil-­ lis isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worried about where her career is going, just as long as she can keep playing music. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t Ă&#x20AC;JXUHG RXW ZKHUH , ZDQW WR JR Âľ she says. â&#x20AC;&#x153;I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t really care. I play music because it makes me feel good, and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what the audi-­ ence likes. They like to feel good with me. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re working off of each other and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great thing.â&#x20AC;? GV

picks & pairing

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Shaw Festival Celebrates it’s Golden Anniversary %< %$55< .(,7+ *5$17 3+272*5$3+< %< '$9,' &223(5 (0,/< &223(5

Ensemble, My Fair Lady. Photo: Emily Cooper

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

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GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 57

Twenty-six distinctive wineries.

One unforgettable place.

This is a close-knit community of wineries with individual personalities, as distinctive as the wines they create.You’ll see this when you step up to our doors.

And you’ll taste it in our wines.

This is the birthplace of Ontario’s modern wine industry, and behind the doors of wineries large and small, you’ll find friendly staff, stylish and relaxed tasting rooms and a wide range of wines to sample.

Plan your getaway to Niagara-on-the-Lake wine country today!

Visit our website for year round events, touring itineraries and more.

Join our mailing list to receive news and updates from wine country!

Find us on Facebook or follow us on Twitter!

58 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

WWW.WINERIESOFNIAGARAONTHELAKE.COM

Welcome to our backyard Scheduled wine tastings on Saturday at 11am, 1pm and 3pm Vineyard tours on Saturday at 12pm & 2pm and Sunday at 2pm Vineyard Bistro by Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s open 11:30 to 5pm 581 Niagara Stone Road, Niagara-on-the-Lake, On 1-888-581-1581 www.southbrook.com bring this ad in for a complementary $10 tasting bring this ad in to receive a complimentary wine tasting, value $10

Culinary Vacations & Cooking Classes in the Heart of Wine Country

The Wine Country Cooking School at Strewn winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake is a unique culinary experience for recreational cooks. Hands-on cooking classes from January through November to tempt your palate and explore the relationship between food & wine.

For a Class Calendar and to check space availability, visit

www.winecountrycooking.com

Wine Country Cooking School Inc. 1339 Lakeshore Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 tel. 905.468.8304 info@winecountrycooking.com Corporate classes and Gift Certificates also available.

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Independent planning

BEGINS

with independent thinking.

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ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopperâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

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Canada’s “Off-Grid” Winery Pioneers

Solar Powered, Organic practices in the vineyard and the winery

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Open Weekends 11-6 January - April 62 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

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GV

Nice Day for a Wine Wedding

BY MICHAEL PINKUS

3+272*5$3+< %< 67(9(1 (/3+,&.

“....Grapes only grow in special microclimates, so you can only have winery weddings in certain places around the world.”

— Justine Lakeit, Caroline Cellars Winery

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 65

GV

See more of Michaelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wedding photos online! grapevinemagazine.ca

I

My Winery Wedding Story...

3+272*5$3+< %< *25' (9$16

tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just the season. The sun is shining, the weather is warm, the birds and bees are mating (as well as every other living creature), so why shouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a man and a woman be getting in RQ WKH DFWLRQ" 7KH TXHVWLRQ WKDW always comes up when a couple is ready to take the plunge is: ZKHUH" $V D ZLQH ZULWHU DQG RQH who spends all his time around fer-­ mented liquids -­ my decision as to where to get married was made by my wife (I guess my wine-­soaked brain wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thinking clearly). In truth, I never did want a traditional wedding, but I never thought of getting married at a winery. Now it seems like a complete no-­brainer to me

I can remember it like it was yes-­ terday.

My wife and I lived the dream just this past summer, at Château des Charmes in Niagara-­on-­the-­Lake.

)RU EHWWHU RU IRU ZRUVH P\ ZLIH WR be and I woke up in the same bed on our wedding day, each trying

The wind was blowing the day before. It rained like the Dickens overnight, and the next morning didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to hold a lot of prom-­ ise (weather-­wise). But all that was forgotten -­-­ or at least temporar-­ ily alleviated -­-­ because I was getting married in wine country, surrounded by good friends, lov-­ ing family and acres and acres of grapevines in the throes of har-­ YHVW :KDW PRUH FRXOG RQH DVN IRU" Well, truth be told, by the time the GD\ ZDV RYHU WZR Ă&#x20AC;QJHUV RI 6FRWFK (plain, no chaser) and a soft bed, EXW Ă&#x20AC;UVW ZH KDG WR JHW WKURXJK WKH day itself.

66 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

to ready him/her-­self for the day that lay ahead. I know they tell you not to see your bride before the blessed event on the big day, but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re both in our 40s and immune to such superstitions. Or ZHUH ZH" ,W ZDV LQ WKHVH ZDQLQJ hours of singledom that we would KDYH RXU ODVW Ă&#x20AC;JKW DV Ă&#x20AC;DQFpV ,¡P not sure what it was about, but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure she was being a witch with a capital B. [Wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s note: I was not. He was being the turd of D IUHVK ZDWHU Ă&#x20AC;VK EDVV @ :H ZHUH both on edge about what the day would bring. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not that we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ready to get married. Au contraire, mon frere. It just seemed we hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t done enough in the preparation stage. Would every-­ WKLQJ EH DOULJKW" 0\ ZLIH LV RQH RI those â&#x20AC;&#x153;nothing we can do about it nowâ&#x20AC;? people (in this case anyway), while Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a tinkerer, always thinking thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a way to make it better.

We chose to have our wedding Château des Charmes in Niagara.

We got engaged over a bottle of their 2005 Sparkling RosĂŠ at four in the morning after a late night drive to St. Catharines, so it only seemed Ă&#x20AC;WWLQJ WKDW WKH ZLQHU\ VKRXOG EH WKH place where we said our I dos.

and party. I had even fashioned our envelope box out of a wooden Clos Apalta wine crate. I was right-­ fully impressed with my handiwork.

My wife shrugged and said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;If it makes you happy and it works.â&#x20AC;?

I drove on pins and needles to the

there dumbfounded, watching her GLUHFW WUDIĂ&#x20AC;F , IHOW OLNH WKH SURYHU-­ bial deer caught in the headlights. ´<RX DOULJKW"Âľ VKH DVNHG ´)LQH Âľ , UHSOLHG ´,V HYHU\WKLQJ DOO VHW XS"Âľ She smiled again. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This is not our Ă&#x20AC;UVW ZHGGLQJ Âľ VKH VDLG LQ D VRRWK-­

â&#x20AC;&#x153;[People are drawn to the idea of a winery wedding] by the romantic notion of fine vintage wines and picturesque vineyard views, by a completely unique outdoor wedding experience, unmatched anywhere...â&#x20AC;? -- Eadie Mastronardi, Mastronardi Estate Winery After my bride-­to-­be left the house, , VSUDQJ LQWR DFWLRQ +DLUFXW Ă RZ-­ ers, pack bag for our overnight stay. But there was also a honey-­ do list of things to be delivered to the Château, the hotel and other places of importance: the car with our bags and boxes of favours, guest lists, table charts, tent cards, tablecloths and various other last-­ minute additions for the reception

venue. I met with the coordinator for what seemed to be the hun-­ dredth time in the past six months.

She still smiled when she saw me, so WKDW PXVW EH D JRRG VLJQ 5LJKW" ´<RX¡UH D OLWWOH HDUO\ Âľ VKH WHDVHG â&#x20AC;&#x153;but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re ready for you.â&#x20AC;? She got someone to help unload the car, found easily accessible places for everything and told staff what everything was for. As I stood

ing tone. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Go do what you have to do and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be perfect by the time \RX JHW EDFN Âľ )DFW LV WKH &Kk-­ teau had hosted two weddings on this weekend alone, so they were well practised by the time they got to mine. I got back in my car, checked my list and crossed off Âś'HOLYHU\ WR WKH &KkWHDX¡ 7KH OLVW was long, but I was one step closer to completing it. I checked the

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 67

Come taste wine where it grows

3+272 &2857(6< 2) +(51'(5 (67$7(6 :,1(5<

time: Seven hours till “I do”, plenty of time. (Gulp.)

grangeofprinceedward.com

Next stop: the hotel. Plenty of research went into hotels in the area. I think we spent an entire day huddled around a computer screen. There are several hotels, B&Bs and Inns in Ontario wine

of my errands and was back home with enough time to twiddle my WKXPEV IRU D IXOO ÀYH PLQXWHV EHIRUH the next phase of the day began.

My best man arrived and we got ready together. His date even did some reluctant ironing in the liv-­ ing room. We dropped his stuff

“I opted for the rustic charm of a local barn with some excellent local touches... A wine country wedding is all about making your day personal and unique.”

– Kassandra Melnyk, Sandbanks Estate Winery country. Nobody would go without a bed. Heck, worst case scenario, you sleep in your car or in some-­ one’s bathtub. There’s plenty of room for everybody.

I checked in, making short shrift of guests I bumped into along the way, hoping that I did not come off as rude. I didn’t want to acci-­ dentally bump into any part of the bridal side of the party, who were getting ready somewhere in the hotel. Done with that, I hightailed LW RXW RI WKH KRWHO WR ÀQLVK WKH UHVW

68 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

(and his date) off at the hotel and cruised our way to the point of no return. The photographer and the rest of the groomsmen were wait-­ ing for us. The next few minutes were a blur. Everyone was milling about, yet there was an organized chaos to it all. I avoided eye con-­ tact with the upstairs where the women were getting ready. Their pictures now done, it was our turn.

In the chaos I failed to say hello to my soon-­to-­be father-­in-­law and my own father, who were quietly VLWWLQJ RQ FKDLUV LQ WKH FRUQHU <RX

have to understand that these are QRW TXLHW PHQ 0H QHUYRXV" 1DK Our photographer took the men down to the barrel cellar where we had our pictures taken: beside barrels, between barrels, on top of barrels, near and with bottling machines. If something could be used as a prop, you bet we used it, like the six-­ year-­old ring bearer. We even found a way to incorporate the sparkling wine bottler.

The day continued to be breezy but sunny and all the principals (aside from the bride and her ladies) were waiting outside in the tent the Château uses to cover its back veranda. The Château is a working winery until 6:00 p.m., which means guests who arrive early are shown to the back or can roam the store and the public places within the building. I hung out with the guys, the fathers, the DJ and the musician who was to play us down the aisle. I kept wor-­ rying that something was not going to go right, but the coordinator would appear every so often to tell me that â&#x20AC;&#x153;everything is going to be perfect.â&#x20AC;?

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By 6:00 p.m., the officiant had yet to arrive, and panic set in. I tracked down the coordinator and found myself on the internet look-­ ing up the number. (Typically, I had left her number in my other pants.)

Professionals are professionals, and -­-­wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you know it -­-­she pulled into the parking lot as I was mak-­ ing the call. I have never been so happy to see another person in my whole life -­-­ until my wife walked down the aisle, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a whole other story. No wait, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s this story.

1RZ , JUDQW \RX WKDW WKH RIĂ&#x20AC;FLDQW had a good half hour to spare, but when the nerves start to jangle, anything out of place, no matter

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 69

how small, can seem major.

The ceremony came and went without a hitch. We walked down an aisle between two trees with the sun and the vineyard at our backs to the song â&#x20AC;&#x153;Marry Meâ&#x20AC;? by Train (as sung by the most awesome guitarist who learned it just for us).

We signed, sealed and delivered the marriage license. Rings were exchanged, vows were said and wham bam thank you maâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;am, we were married in Ontario wine country. They say it is then that the fun begins (for the guest maybe), but for the wedding party, the pic-­ tures have just begun. We had but one hour to get the lighting right, so we found ourselves doing an out-­ side tour of the Château getting pictures on stairs, near railing, by ZDWHU VSRXWV LQ Ă&#x20AC;HOGV RQ D WUDFWRU and of course, whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a wedding in wine country without pictures in WKH YLQH\DUG" $QG EHFDXVH LW ZDV September, the grapes were in full bunch. (In the spring, that would be full bloom.)

The rest of the night was a whirlwind of activity. The only complaint I received the next day was that the party had to come to an end.

I even caught up with the coordi-­ nator at a rare moment near the end of the evening. She was sitting down and smiling. She looked sat-­ LVĂ&#x20AC;HG WKDW WKH HYHQLQJ KDG JRQH very well. I am sure it did not go without any hitches, but the key is nobody saw them.

As we drove away from the Châ-­ teau, tired, yet wired and most GHĂ&#x20AC;QLWHO\ PDUULHG RXU PRUQLQJ EDW-­ tle thankfully forgotten, we thought about how special the day was, how stress-­free we felt and how a wedding in wine country ties you to the place for a lifetime. GV

70 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

NAT DECANTS

DEPARTMENT NAME

WHAT IT REALLY TAKES to operate a successful winery in Ontario %< -2+1 6=$%2 Â&#x2021; 3+272*5$3+< %< 67(9(1 (/3+,&.

DAN SULLIVAN, ROSEHALL RUN, 35,1&( (':$5' &2817< 217$5,2 71 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SPRING | 2011

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 71

3$8/ 63(&. +(15< 2) 3(/+$0 NIAGARA, ONTARIO

72 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Wanted: Winery owners/operators for Ontario, Canada.

This is your opportunity to get into one of the most glamorous busi-­ nesses in the world. Operating a winery will engage and challenge you on multiple levels. Each day is different. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re a Renaissance PDQ WKLV LV \RXU GUHDP MRE <RX¡OO be a farmer, biologist, chemist, mechanic, accountant, graphics designer, marketing strategist, retail store manager, human resources director, salesman, general fac-­ totum and occasionally, delivery boy, and many other things besides. Beyond the incredible diversity of your day-­to-­day duties, as an added bonus, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be relocated to a beautiful part of the world in an idyllic rural setting, with a relatively benign climate and four distinct seasons. Part of your business will run according to the rhythms of the seasons, other parts to the vagaries of the market. <RX¡OO PHHW DQ HFOHFWLF FROOHFWLRQ of some of the most interesting people in the world, all united by a love of wine and food. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the best job around.

Oh, and did we mention that there will be a small capital requirement XS IURQW" :HOO \RX¡OO QHHG TXLWH a lot of money, actually, and not MXVW XS IURQW HLWKHU <RX¡G EHWWHU get a very long line of credit. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t expect to break even in your life-­ time, but your children will thank you. And I suppose you should know that a large part of your suc-­ cess will be utterly dependent on things that are beyond your control, like, for example, the weather.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s generally pretty cool in Ontario, relatively speaking, with less sun and more rain and a short grow-­ ing season, so it will cost you a little bit more -­-­ maybe a lot more -­-­ to

make your wine than, say, all of the southern hemisphere. We also have little details like minimum wage and health and safety regu-­ lations that will raise your costs. But thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s okay, since you can position your product as a â&#x20AC;&#x153;premium cool-­ climateâ&#x20AC;? wine, which is all the rage these days. But then again, since the wine world is tradition-­bound, with no small measure of elitism, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll have to overcome the lin-­ gering impression that Ontario is somehow inferior to most other wine regions in the world. And even if your wine is brilliant, people may not believe you.

Despite these minor challenges, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a growing number of win-­ ery owners who, with products broadly similar to yours, will be Ă&#x20AC;JKWLQJ IRU WKH VDPH OLPLWHG UHWDLO shelf space. Since your winery will be in Ontario, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be in one of the most tightly regulated retail alcohol environments in the world.

In fact, there is only ONE retailer, and if they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want your wine, well, then you can only sell it out of your winery door, that is if anyone FRPHV WR YLVLW \RX <RX PLJKW ZDQW to open a restaurant at your winery to attract people, but then again, that gets a little complicated, so LW¡V QRW UHFRPPHQGHG <RX FDQ LI you wish, sell your wine directly to restaurants throughout the prov-­ ince, but since restaurant owners are very busy and have no spare cash, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll also have to deliver it to their door, a case or two at a time. Of course you can hire an agency to handle your sales and delivery, but that will cut into your already slim margins.

Aside from these small challenges, owning and operating a winery in Ontario is a dream job. If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re still not sure, listen to these three own-­ ers who have blazed the trail for you. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve given an honest and

candid view of how and why they got started and how they navigate the turbid waters of the business side of the wine business. This is not about their wines, but each of them is considered a reference point in his respective region. All three focus on premium VQA wines (100% Ontario-­grown), and tellingly, all three would do it again if given the chance.

Paul Speck runs the well-­estab-­ lished Henry of Pelham winery in the Niagara Peninsula, one of the HDUO\ SLRQHHUV 7KH 6SHFN IDPLO\ Ă&#x20AC;UVW planted vineyards on the Short Hills %HQFK LQ DQG WKHLU Ă&#x20AC;UVW YLQWDJH was 1988. Today the Specks own 170 acres, purchase another 25-­40 per cent of their grape needs and produce around 900,000 bottles under the Henry of Pelham, Speck )DPLO\ 5HVHUYH &XYpH &DWKDULQH Sibling Rivalry and House Wine company (Speck Bros) labels. As a former chair of the Ontario Wine Council, Paul knows the business inside and out.

'DQ 6XOOLYDQ ZDV DPRQJ WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW group of vintners in Prince Edward County, Ontarioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s youngest wine-­ growing region, approved for VQA production in 2007. He estab-­ lished his winery, Rosehall Run, in 2001. Today he farms 23 acres and makes about 70,000 bottles of wine spread over a dozen types.

His estate fruit is supplemented by nearly as much purchased fruit from growers in the County and in Niagara. Sullivan learned the craft as a successful amateur winemaker before he turned pro, and quickly established himself as one of the leading names in Prince Edward County.

5RE DQG )DELR 0XVFHGHUH UXQ WKH small boutique Muscedere Vine-­ yards operation in the Lake Erie

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 73

)$%,2 0(/,66$ $1' 52% 086&('(5( 086&('(5( 9,1(<$5'6 /$.( (5,( 1257+ SHORE (LENS), ONTARIO

North Shore viticultural area. Grape growing runs in the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s blood, though the winery was only estab-­ lished in 2006. The Muscederes farm 13 acres and produce just 24,000 bottles a year, currently with 8-­10 different types, though they expect volume to ramp up over the next few years.

4 %ULHĂ \ GHVFULEH KRZ WKH ZLQHU\ FDPH LQWR EHLQJ WKH LQVSLUDWLRQ SHUFHLYHG RSSRUWXQLW\ Speck: Our father wanted to pre-­ serve the original 55 acres of land that had been in the family name since 1794. He purchased it and we planted vineyards. It then became a family project. We planted in , VWDUWHG ZLWK WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW YLQWDJH We have always focused on Niag-­ ara-­grown grapes at the high end

of the market.

Sullivan: I was inspired by love of growing, making and enjoy-­ ing wine. I wanted to be part of a community that brings skill and passion to create an authentic high-­quality wine culture.

Muscedere: Inspiration came at a young age when visiting our grandfather who has recently retired from farming commercial vineyards in the Lazio region of Italy. The lifestyle, the passion, the love we saw in the vineyard had an impact on us at a young age.

We saw an opportunity after hear-­ ing that international awards were being won by local wineries.

4 :K\ GLG \RX FKRRVH WKH UHJLRQ LQ ZKLFK \RXU ZLQHU\ LV ORFDWHG"

74 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

:KDW DUH WKH DGYDQWDJHV GLVDG-­ YDQWDJHV" Speck: Heritage. We pioneered growing vinifera grapes on this land and helped create the Short Hills Bench sub-­appellation.

Sullivan: Although land cost was inexpensive relatively speaking, it was the limestone soil and sense of starting something new that ulti-­ mately determined our location.

Our annual cost of production is higher than most areas because of the extra inputs for winter pro-­ tection and low yields, so it is an expensive place to grow wine.

Muscedere: We chose this area because it is in our own backyard and we see an up-­and-­coming region that will really turn heads

in the near future with the quality of wine. This region has the warm-­ est autumn temps in the country, a critical factor for harvest deci-­ VLRQV )XUWKHUPRUH ZH DUH DPRQJ the warmest locations in Canada during the summer with above-­ average sun hours and lots of wind to reduce disease pressure.

4 :KDW ZHUH WKH JUHDWHVW FKDO-­ OHQJHV LQ VHWWLQJ XS WKH ZLQHU\" Speck: When we started there was no VQA, no wine route, no VQA wine section in the LCBO, COVI, Niagara College, etc. We had to learn the whole business on our own and train people, as there were only a couple of other small premium wineries at the time, who were also learning the business.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much, much different today.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s way more infrastructure and resources, a new generation of customers who only know great quality VQA wines.

Sullivan: A steep, continuous learning curve, challenged by the capital-­intensive nature of the wine business.

Muscedere: The vineyard is the most important part of our opera-­ tion. Developing the blueprint to follow for Vineyard Strategy was the greatest challenge in the early stages. Everyone is ready to give you advice, but itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to pick DQG FKRRVH HOHPHQWV WR Ă&#x20AC;W LQWR \RXU SODQ 7KLV LV GLIĂ&#x20AC;FXOW EHFDXVH an element may work well in one V\VWHP EXW KRZ ZLOO LW ZRUN LQ \RXUV" A system includes soil, topography, climate, pruning strategy, tying strategy, etc.

4 :KDW DUH WKH DGYDQWDJHV GLV-­ DGYDQWDJHV RI EHLQJ LQ 2QWDULR IURP D UHJXODWRU\ PDUNHW SHUVSHF-­ WLYH"

Speck: The positive is that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re close to a great market, Toronto/ *7$ DQG 1LDJDUD )DOOV LV D ZRUOG renowned tourism attraction. The LCBO, if working well with the win-­ ery, can be a very good way to distribute wines throughout the province.

On the negative side, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s high-­tax region and an overly regulated, highly competitive market. Despite what you may hear, every foreign winery trips over itself to sell to the LCBO. There are subsidized wines from all over the world in our mar-­ ket. VQA does not have a big market share (10%) in our own home.

Sullivan: Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re challenged by market access issues and general consumer misconceptions on the quality of good Ontario wine.

Muscedere: The biggest advan-­ tage of being in Ontario is the growing market of wine consum-­ ers and especially those that are turning to homegrown wine prod-­ ucts like ours. A disadvantage at the moment is the lack of places where a small winery like us can sell our product.

4 :KDW LV \RXU WKRXJKW SURFHVV ZKHQ FUHDWLQJ D QHZ ZLQH" :KDW DUH WKH GULYLQJ IDFWRUV" Speck: It depends on many things.

Sullivan: This is an interesting ques-­ tion. Obviously we make what we grow first and foremost. Having said that, we have learned that you can make lots of wine but it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean it will be purchased.

So in that sense, our labels will be market-­driven moving forward. Our overriding philosophy is that we are a quality-­driven winery so we seek to have long-­term quality-­focused

relationships with our growers.

Muscedere: We are a small win-­ ery. We have only one label at the moment with eight wines under that label. Our thought process has been to keep one premium brand that looks the same to cre-­ ate brand recognition and loyalty.

When the market warrants it, we will determine if a more premium brand or less premium brand should be created and what mar-­ ket it would be for.

Speck: We position ourselves as a mid-­sized, family-­owned estate winery, VQA only, with premium quality and price points.

Sullivan: We are a 100 per cent VQA winery and have three tiers of production: single vineyard/ estate wine, DVA (designated viti-­ cultural area) grown wines from estate and purchased, and DVA PEC fruit and 100 per cent Ontario JURZQ IURP VSHFLĂ&#x20AC;FDOO\ VHOHFWHG vineyards from regions in Ontario, including our own. We make, age and bottle all wine we sell. We position ourselves as producing premium quality wines that deliver great value.

Muscedere: We target the pre-­ mium segment of the wine market by producing premium red and white wines, from hand-­picked estate grapes. Our wines are tar-­ geted to wine lovers and the educated wine consumer.

4 :RXOG \RX DGYLVH DQ\RQH WR VWDUW D ZLQHU\ LQ 2QWDULR" ,I \HV XQGHU ZKDW FRQGLWLRQV" Speck: With extreme caution. Right now there are likely too many win-­

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 75

eries for the current size of the VQA market. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s very expensive DQG YHU\ GLIĂ&#x20AC;FXOW WR PDNH D SURĂ&#x20AC;W And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s extremely competitive with both foreign and domestic wines and wineries.

Sullivan: This is a very challeng-­ ing time to start a winery here in Ontario, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clearly not stop-­ SLQJ SHRSOH IURP GRLQJ LW <RX need to do three things to suc-­ ceed: Sell wine, make good wine and be adequately capitalized. I used think that you had to know how to grow good fruit to be suc-­ cessful, but depending upon your Signature: business model, this may not be so.

0XVFHGHUH <HV ZH ZRXOG DGYLVH Date:

others to start a winery in Ontario, VSHFLĂ&#x20AC;FDOO\ LQ /DNH (ULH 1RUWK 6KRUH We would advise people to gain as much knowledge from as many different sources as possible before

starting, especially those sources that you feel best emulate what you would like your winery to become.

and our wine. It is a varied, excit-­ ing way of life that blends farming, craft and communication, so in WKDW VHQVH LW LV IXOĂ&#x20AC;OOLQJ ZRUN

4 :KDW GR \RX ORYH PRVW DERXW WKH ZLQH EXVLQHVV"

Muscedere: I love the people, the family atmosphere of the business.

Big or small, most wineries have a family atmosphere (ours included) and most winery owners/opera-­ tors are friendly, helpful people.

We have met many great people, customers, winery owners and wine makers who have become great friends.

Speck: I love that each year is dif-­ ferent because of our reliance on Mother Nature. I love that we can take the product from the start to Ă&#x20AC;QLVK ZKHQ , VHH VRPHRQH DW D UHV-­ taurant or at home drinking and enjoying our wine. I love that it is so competitive because it forces us to work hard to be the best we can be. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always changing. It is fun creating a product and a region that people love. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not like mak-­ ing and selling widgets.

Sullivan: We are in the business of pleasure, so mostly we encounter consumers enjoying themselves

4 +RZ ZLOO WKH ZLQHU\ ORRN LQ " :KDW DUH \RX JRDOV" Speck: Our goal is to build the next great Canadian wine company in Canada and then take the show on the road globally. We will con-­ tinue to grow our vineyards and winery only if we can continue

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to increase quality and maintain price points which make the busi-­ ness viable.

Sullivan: I aspire to be sustainable in all elements of the business, regard-­ less of our size, and regarded as a reference point for wines both locally and internationally. (Ontario wines will be highly regarded around the world and we will be an industry leader in that context). , DOVR VHH P\VHOI Ă&#x20AC;QGLQJ D KDSS\ balanced lifestyle that will allow for succession.

Muscedere: To be a 5,000-­case producer of premium wines, known throughout the wine industry as the producer of world-­class premium red wines from Lake Erie North Shore.

4 ,I \RX ZHUHQ¡W UXQQLQJ D ZLQHU\ ZKDW ZRXOG \RX EH GRLQJ" Speck: I was going to go to law school before I decided to help my GDG JHW WKURXJK WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW \HDU DW Henry of Pelham. I always wanted to be a racecar driver. I studied philosophy, so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d likely would be unemployed.

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Sullivan: Good question. Who ZRXOG KLUH D QXW OLNH PH" Muscedere: Both Rob and I would be pursuing the careers we were in prior to starting the winery: Rob was in the automotive engineering industry and I was in product man-­ agement in the consumer product goods industry. GV

& & (

% # $ #$ " $! (

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GV MORE Q&A ONLINE grapevinemagazine.ca GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011 77

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY MAP

MAP AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

78 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

PRINCE EDWARD COUNTY MAP

Paulette Greer, Owner

Denny Diamond

Gallery

264 Main St. Wellington, Ontario 613.399.5550 www.sidestreetgallery.com

Sharon Bower

SideStreet

Jane Rutter

Pamela Carter

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 79

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

TastingNotes REGIONAL WINES OF ONTARIO

TONY ASPLER :+(1 , 7$67( $ :,1( ,¡0 /22.,1* )25 %$/$1&( $1' +$5021< $// 7+( (/(0(176 2) )58,7 $&,',7< $/&2+2/ $1' 2$. ,) 86(' +$9( 72 :25.

72*(7+(5 ,1 $ 6($0/(66 )$6+,21 , $0 $/62 /22.,1* )25 (/(*$1&( $ :,1( 7+$7 , &$1 '5,1. 025( 7+$1 21( */$66 2) :,7+287 %(,1* +,7 29(5 7+( +($' :,7+ $/&2+2/ $/62 , /22. $7 48$/,7< )25 7+( 35,&( $1' :,// *,9( $1 (;75$ 32,17 25 7:2 ,) 7+( :,1( 29(5 '(/,9(56 ,1 7+$7 '(3$570(17

89

-DFNVRQ 7ULJJV 'HODLQH 9LQH\DUG 6\UDK 1LDJDUD (VFDUSPHQW This wine spent 18 months in-­ barrel and is one of the best of the variety made in 2007. Dense purple-­black in colour, it offers a bouquet of blackberry, plum ,white pepper and wood spice.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s medium-­bodied, fresh and lively on the palate with ZHOO H[WUDFWHG EODFN IUXLW Ă DYRXUV D Ă&#x20AC;UP VWUXFWXUH DQG ripe tannins. RATING: 89 POINTS.

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE RATINGS: :H SURYLGH DQ RSLQLRQ RQ ZLQH EDVHG RQ D SRLQW VFDOH DV GHĂ&#x20AC;QHG EHORZ SRLQWV Outstanding characteristics and exhilarating to drink.

Excellent quality, complexity and depth.

SRLQWV Excellent characteristics and very enjoyable to GULQN 5HĂ&#x20AC;QHG EDODQFH complexity and depth.

80 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

SRLQWV Very good characteristics and a pleasure to drink.

Expresses good quality, balance, complexity and depth.

SRLQWV Good characteristics and drinkable. Simple and displays some balance.

GV

%HORZ SRLQWV Lacking in quality, character and balance.

MORE TASTING NOTES ONLINE! www.grapevinemagazine.ca

92

DAVID LAWRASON

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91 88

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This is very classy â&#x20AC;&#x201C; so vibrant, so elegant , with a piercing nose of lemon drop candy, spearmint, peach and spice. The key to the palate is a miniscule 8.5% alcohol, the way Riesling is handled in Germanyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mosel Valley. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s taut, zesty and focused, with some sweetness balanced on a pinhead by the acidity. Excellent length as well. Note that it is 375ml bottle. RATING: 91 POINTS.

/DFH\ (VWDWH 3LQRW *ULV 3ULQFH (GZDUG &RXQW\

This has absorbed a considerable amount of the russet-­grey hue of the skin of pinot gris â&#x20AC;&#x201C; putting it almost into the rosĂŠ realm. It has also taken on quite classic if typically vague pinot gris peach/plum and bready notes aromas. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s TXLWH FUHDP\ VRIW DQG ULFK ZLWK PLOG Ă DYRXUV and good to very good length. RATING: 88 POINTS

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

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GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINEMAGAZINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 81

REID & SIEMONSEN IS INSPIRED

350 BAGOT STREE T, KINGSTON 613.548.7891 www.rsdesigners.net

89

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

+XII (VWDWH &XYHH 3HWHU / +XII 3ULQFH (GZDUG &RXQW\

7KLV LV WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW +XII &XYHH 3/+ PDGH IURP SLQRW QRLU DQG FKDUGRQQD\ DQG WKH last to be made from the Lighthall Vineyard, which under new ownership is now producing its own table wines. This a light weight, very fresh, taut, mildly sweet sparkler with a gentle nose of yellow apple, tea biscuit and youthful \HDVWLQHVV &RXQW\ PLQHUDOLW\ DQG WDVW\ OHPRQ PHULQJXH SLH Ă DYRXUV KLW H[FHO-­ OHQW OHQJWK RQ WKH Ă&#x20AC;QLVK 5$7,1* SRLQWV

%HWZHHQ WKH /LQHV 0HUORW )RXU 0LOH &UHHN

)URP \HDU ROG YLQHV RQ WKH :HUWVFK IDP-­ ily property, this debut Merlot is very good value. It is a lighter style that could pass for a minor Bor-­ deaux, with a youthful leesy/yeasty note, raspberry fruit and tobacco. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nicely supple and well bal-­ anced with light chalky tannin, living up to the new wineryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s goal of making â&#x20AC;&#x153;drinkable winesâ&#x20AC;?. RATING: 86 POINTS.

86

REID & SIEMONSEN IS INSPIRED 350 BAGOT STREE T, KINGSTON 613.548.7891 www.rsdesigners.net GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 83

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

90

NATALIE MACLEAN (9(5< <($5 , 7$67( 7+286$1'6 2) :,1(6 $1'

:+,77/( 7+(6( '2:1 72 7+26( , %(/,(9( $5( :257+< 2) <285 $77(17,21 2)7(1 , 21/< &+226( 21( :,1( )25 (9(5< 7+$7 , 7$67( 62 , .,66 $ /27 2) 9,1286 )52*6 72 ),1' 7+( 35,1&(6 )25 <28 , )((/ 7+$7 0< 7$67,1* 127(6 $5( 025( ,03257$17 7+$1 7+( 6&25(6 '21 7 -867 '5,1. 7+( 180%(56

3LOOLWWHUL (VWDWHV :LQHU\ *HZXU]WUDPLQHU 5LHVOLQJ )XVLRQ 94$ 1LDJDUD RQ WKH /DNH

A blend of 54% Gewurztraminer and 45% Riesling with a small dose of 1% Riesling icewine. This is a brilliant wine with classic aromas of rose petal, O\FKHH DQG OLPH ]HVW ,W¡V ]LSS\ DQG UHIUHVKLQJ \HW GHHSO\ à DYRXUHG /RYHO\ Pair with: Asian cuisine, seafood, curry. Drink: 2010-­2014. RATING: 90 POINTS.

-2+1 6=$%2

:+(1 , 7$67( 0< 67$57,1* 32,17 ,6 72 /22. )25 :,1(6 7+$7 5()/(&7 %27+ )520 :+(5( 7+(<¡5( *52:1 $1' )520 :+,&+ *5$3( 6 7+(<¡5( 0$'( , /22. )25 $ ',67,1&7 5(&2*1,=$%/( $1' ,'(17,),$%/( 352),/( $ :,1( :,7+ $ :,'( $1' $33($/,1* $55$< 2) $520$6 $1' )/$92856 $1' :+,&+ /,1*(56 21 (1'/(66/< 5(9($/,1* 025( $1' 025( /$<(56 2) &203/(;,7< :,// $/:$<6 +$9( $ 3/$&( ,1 0< &2/801 $1' 21 0< 7$%/(

89

675(:1 7(552,5 0(5/27 94$ 1LDJDUD 3HQLQVXOD

Classy, pronounced mocha-­chocolate, barrel-­derived aromas, though this is clearly high-­quality oak. Beneath thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more than enough dark fruit character to compensate, with black plum and black berry, fully ripe but fresh. Quite incredible for the 2006 vintage. The palate is balanced and fresh, OLYHO\ IRRG IULHQGO\ LW LQYLWHV VLS DIWHU VLS 9HU\ Ă&#x20AC;QH H[DPSOH RQH RI WKH EHVW reds Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve tasted from Strewn to date.

RATING: 89 POINTS.

84 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES +HQU\ 2I 3HOKDP 5LHVOLQJ ,FHZLQH 1LDJDUD (VFDUSPHQW

Always reliable, the latest vintage of H of Pâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Riesling icewine delivers complexity, elegance and delicate sweet-­fresh balance in a model for the category. /RQJ Ă&#x20AC;QLVK 7KLV FDQ EH enjoyed now or held four to six years or more for a more mature and candied/honeyed expression. RATING: 92 POINTS.

92

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REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

89 87 92 0,&+$(/ 3,1.86 , .12: 7+$7 :+(1 , -8'*( , ',))(5 )520 :+(1 , 7$67( )25 3(5621$/ 127(6 -8'*,1* %(&20(6 025( &/,1,&$/ ,6 ,7 7+( 5,*+7 )/$9285 7+( 5,*+7 60(// )25 7+( *5$3( 9$5,(7< ,7 ,6 683326( 72 %( %87 )25 3(5621$/ 127(6 ,7¡6 $%287 :+$7¡6 ,1 7+( */$66 ,) ,7 '2(6 127 60(// 25 7$67( /,.( 7<3,&$/ &+$5'211$< /,.( ,1 7+( &$6( 2) $ 6721(< 5,'*( &+$5/277(¡6 &+$5'211$< %87 ,6 $ )$17$67,& :,1( 6+28/' ,7 %( 0$5.(' '2:1" , '2 127 %(/,(9( 62 ,1 )$&7 , /,.( ,76 9((5 )520 7+( 1250 , $0 /22.,1* )25 :+$7 0,//(5 /,7( &$//6 ´'5,1.$%,/,7<¾ $1' (1-2<$%,/,7<

3HOHH ,VODQG $OYDU &DEHUQHW 0HUORW 3HOHH ,VODQG

Another juicy offering from the Alvar line RI ZLQHV NQRZQ IRU YDOXH IRU Ă DYRXU

nice blackberry with a hint of spice and VZHHW YDQLOOD 7KH Ă&#x20AC;QLVK LV IXOO RI UDVSEHUU\ and black cherry. Rating: 89 POINTS

.RQ]HOPDQQ *HZXU]WUDPLQHU /DWH +DUYHVW 1LDJDUD 3HQLQVXOD

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not going to bore you with too many details about this wine.

Those who like Gewurztraminer are already intrigued and those with a sweet tooth are salivating at the late-­harvest designation. This ZLQH LV VSLF\ DQG Ă RUDO W\SLFDO IRU *HZXU]W ZLWK VRPH KRQH\ QRWHV (familiar to late-­harvest fans). This amalgamation of the two delivers a wine thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s delicate with a non-­cloying palate that measures a mere two on the sugar code. Rating: 87 POINTS

&ORVVRQ &KDVH 6DQV &KHQH &KDUGRQQD\ 3ULQFH (GZDUG &RXQW\

Unoaked Chardonnay from the house that Chardonnay (and Pinot) built.

Aromas of apricot and orange lead the charge. The palate shows a slight bitterness with lime pith, but decent DFLGLW\ DQG D JRRG FLWUXV Ă&#x20AC;QLVK EULQJV WKLV one together. Rating: 92 POINTS

86 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

REGIONAL TASTING NOTES

0XVFHGHUH 0HULWDJH /DNH (ULH 1RUWK 6KRUH

Lovely cherry, red licorice and blackberry nose gives way to blackberry and black cherry on the tongue with silky tannins. Good ageability here XS WR Ă&#x20AC;YH \HDUV , GR GHWHFW FKRFRODWH RQ WKH Ă&#x20AC;QLVK \XP Rating: 90 POINTS

90 89

6DQGEDQNV %DFR 1RLU 3ULQFH (GZDUG &RXQW\

Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the second Baco producer doing a bang-­ up job with the grape. Nose of smoky vanilla, black raspberry and black currant, the palate has a little residual sweetness which lifts the fruit Ă DYRXU WR QHZ KHLJKWV RI YDQLOOD DQG EODFN FKHUU\ along with muted leather and tar for backbone.

Rating: 89 POINTS

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GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 87

PERSPECTIVES

SUMMER TOURING IN ONTARIO %< '$9,' /$:5$621 Summer is the time that Ontarioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wineries show off to the fruits of their labours from the previous vintages while they keep one eye on the coming harvest. As you tour Ontario wine country this summer, you will Ă&#x20AC;QG FRQVLGHUDEOH HQWKXVLDVP IRU WKH 2010 and 2009 vintages, along with new wineries, new winemakers and a sense that Ontario wine is really taking off.

I am always amazed by the brave spirit and dogged romanticism of people entering the wine business, and given potentially vine-­killing IUHH]HV LQ -DQXDU\ DQG )HEUXDU\ LW¡V impossible to blame those who de-­ cide to take a pass or move on. But if everyone hung back and played it safe, nothing would be proven possible.

The long, deep, crisp and even Ca-­ nadian winter of 2011 began De-­ cember 6, the day I set off for three days in Niagara to visit new wineries, new winemakers and stick my nose into the barrels and tanks contain-­ ing the 2010 vintage. An overnight temperature plunge and bitter north wind had turned the roads, including the Burlington Skyway, to ice.

0\ Ă&#x20AC;UVW VWRS ZDV 3HQLQVXOD 5LGJH WR WDVWH WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW ZLQHV PDGH VLQFH WKH departure of winemaker Jean Pierre Colas. With his background in Cha-­ blis, Colas was renowned for uplift-­ ing Niagara Sauvignon Blancs and Chardonnays. But new winemaker

Jamie Evans , a U of Ottawa grad who had worked for Strewn and Stonechurch, has held the mantle high, creating polished, layered and lively whites through continuous attention to lees stirring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; especially D WULR RI WHUULĂ&#x20AC;F 6DXYLJQRQV The LCBO listed 2009 Syrah is dandy for $15.00, and his 2010 barrels are holding some very impressive reds as well.

1H[W XS ZDV P\ Ă&#x20AC;UVW YLVLW WR 2UJD-­ nized Crime, on what would turn out to be something of an Andrzej Lipin-­ ski tour. Having made wine at Vine-­ land, Legends, Megalomaniac and 7KH )RUHLJQ $IIDLU /LSLQVNL LV FXUUHQWO\ ensconced as consulting winemak-­ er at Colaneri, Cornerstone and Or-­ ganized Crime. At Organized Crime, I was impressed by two controver-­ sial techniques that set him apart: using dried (appassimento) grapes to make richer reds and whites, and barrel-­aging aromatic varieties like Riesling and Gewurztraminer. One can argue the theory of whether the latter in particular should work, but Organized Crimeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2009 Riesling Reserve is worth an open mind. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want boring wines here,â&#x20AC;? said owner Jan Tarasewicz. No, maâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;am!

Greenlane Winery opened last summer on the site of the old Birch-­ wood Winery astride the QEW. The postage-­stamp-­sized winery will be going into major expansion this sum-­ mer, but the real prize for owner Rob-­ ert Paul (ex-­Château des Charmes ) and winemaker Diane Welsh (ex-­

88 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Tawse) are some old Riesling and Cabernet vines on the property that will be converted to low-­yield and be organically tended. The Ă&#x20AC;UVW UHOHDVHV PDGH RII VLWH IURP SXU-­ chased fruit are unremarkable, but some 2010 Riesling and Cab being coddled now in tank and barrel are a different matter completely.

In the past year, winemaker Jeff Innes has completed his transition from a full-­time role at Grange of Prince Edward, one of the largest wineries in Prince Edward County, to Palatine Hills in Niagara, a much larger winery owned by Niagara Lakeshore viticulturist John Neufeld.

He only makes about 15,000 cases under the Palatine Hills label, but with one-­million-­litre capacity, he processes all kinds of wine for oth-­ ers. I tasted through some extremely promising 2010 barrels, including ULFK &DEHUQHW )UDQF DQG 0HUORW EXW my favourites are two whites I con-­ sider Palatine Hills signatures, the delicious 2010 Gewurztraminer and 2009 Sauvignon Blanc.

Next door on the Niagara Lake-­ shore, Hinterbrook Winery opened its doors this spring. Grower Phil Nickel is switching his 34 acres into estate-­only wines that debut with the 2010 vintage. The gleaming new state-­of-­the-­art, enviro-­friendly solar, geothermal and minimum-­handling winery has become the playground of veteran Niagara consulting oe-­ nologist Natalie Spytkowsky, who also makes wine at Rosewood. Her

PERSPECTIVES rich, polished and very bright 2010 whites -­-­ and a very impressive 2010 Merlot -­-­ will be worth waiting for.

1HDUE\ LQ WKH )RXU 0LOH &UHHN DSSHO-­ ODWLRQ \RXQJ EURWKHUV <DQQLFN

and Greg Wertsch (23) have open a new winery called Between the Lines on 42 acres of vineyard owned by their family since 1998 when they emigrated from the Wurttemberg UHJLRQ RI *HUPDQ\ <DQQLFN JUDGX-­ ated from Niagara College in 2008, while Greg studied wine econom-­ ics at Geisenheim in Germany, part of a carefully-­ orchestrated plan to â&#x20AC;&#x153;escape tough times as farmersâ&#x20AC;? and launch into the wine business.

They have opened with a line of under $14.00 line-­priced, screw-­ cap varietals, all cleanly made with good varietal character.

Neighbouring Pondview, opened in 2010, is yet another example of long-­time growers in the Niagara-­ on-­the-­Lake region moving into the ZLQH EXVLQHVV IRU WKHPVHOYHV )RU-­ PHU *UDSH .LQJ /RX 3XJOLHVH PDGH 3,800 cases from 60 acres in 2009, bumping up to 6,000 cases in 2010. â&#x20AC;&#x153;It was the best growing season vintage I have seen in my lifetime,â&#x20AC;? said Pugliese, â&#x20AC;&#x153;and a great relief after 2008 and 2009, which were DPRQJ WKH PRVW GLIĂ&#x20AC;FXOW Âľ &RQVXOW-­ LQJ ZLQHPDNHU )UHG 'L 3URĂ&#x20AC;R KDV made the notable 2009 Bella Terra Chardonnay, selected for the Seri-­ ously Cool Chardonnay expedition to Manhattan in March. Pinot Grigio and Gewurz 2010 look particularly promising, as do the 2009 Merlot DQG &DE )UDQF WR EH UHOHDVHG WKLV spring. $QG Ă&#x20AC;QDOO\ WKH VKRZVWRSSHU RI P\ tour was the massive, 18,000 square-­ IRRW QRW \HW Ă&#x20AC;QLVKHG &RODQHUL ZLQ-­ ery, perched on the brow of the St. Davidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bench. It is, by my reckoning DW OHDVW WKH ODUJHVW ZLQHU\ HGLĂ&#x20AC;FH LQ Niagara, and perhaps only rivalled

by B.C.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mission Hill as the largest in Canada. Michael, Nick and Betty Colaneri launched the project in 2002, replanting their 25 acres, then

starting winery construction in 2008.

It became operational in 2010 with a temporary retail/tasting area, with the rest of the large-­scale hospitality space to completed over the next two years. Aforementioned Andrzej Lipiniski has made a wide range of innovative and often intense vari-­ etals, each named for a member of WKH ODUJH &RODQHUL FODQ 7KH à DJVKLS appassimento red called Corposo was released this spring.

Our tour moves eastward to the wineries of Prince Edward County, who are looking forward to a ban-­ ner summer. Most County wineries will be releasing 2010 whites from a warm, dry, even season that many say is the best vintage to date. And many have released or will soon release 2009 Pinot Noirs, from a dif-­ Ă&#x20AC;FXOW YLQWDJH YLWLFXOWXUDOO\ EXW RQH that has Pinot-­enthusiasts excited.

If youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re planning a County tast-­ ing excursion, I suggest you plan spend three or four days â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or two weekends â&#x20AC;&#x201C; to take in the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s growing portfolio. The County is home to at least 30 wineries, but no one ever seems to know the exact number because some are sort of semi-­open, or they make wines in borrowed facilities. The map in this edition of Grapevine is actually the best one available for planning your route, as other maps only show win-­ eries that belong to certain organi-­ zations.

The County now divides into three broad geographical regions. The Hillier region in the southwest corner is the most densely populated with 19 wineries along, or just off, the Loyalist Parkway between Consec-­ on and Wellington. There are six on Closson Road alone. But the seven wineries in the eastern Picton-­Wau-­ poos-­Adolphustown stretch deserve a full day of their own. And you can spend yet another, perhaps shorter, day visiting four more winer-­ ies in southern part of the County in the South Bay-­Milford-­Cherry Valley GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 89

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area.

I want to linger on this latter area.

With the opening of Lighthall Winery in May, there are now three very se-­ riously good producers along, or just off off Royal Road, west of Milford in the Countyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s deep south. Light-­ hall joins Long Dog and Exultet in WKLV Ă DW DUHD RQO\ D NLORPHWUH IURP Lake Ontario. It faces the full brunt of westerlies off Athol Bay, which is a boon for rapid drying of the vine-­ yards. More importantly, the top soils (gravelled sand and clay) are quite thin in spots, so roots hit the limestone bedrock quickly. I am per-­ VRQDOO\ H[FLWHG E\ WKH Ă RUDOLW\ HOH-­ gance and minerality this is creating in the wines, from the earliest wines of Long Dog, to the racy new Pinots and Chardonnays of Exultet, to the new-­old Chardonnays of Lighthall.

County observers will be familiar with the Lighthall Vineyards contri-­ EXWLRQV WR WKH Ă&#x20AC;UVW DWWHQWLRQ JHWWLQJ Chardonnays from Huff Estate, WKHQ WKH WHUULĂ&#x20AC;F +XII VSDUNOLQJ ZLQHV WKDW Ă&#x20AC;UVW DSSHDUHG ZLWK WKH vintage. In 2008, Peter and Alice Minnaker sold the eight-­acre vine-­ yard to Ottawa pharmacist Glenn Symons,who moved his family to .LQJVWRQ DQG SODQWHG DQRWKHU VHY-­ en acres. He has also hired David )UHGHULFN DQ 2QWDULR UDLVHG ZLQH-­ maker who worked several years in the Okanagan before answering the call to come home -­-­ as his as-­ sistant. Lighthall plans to make 2,000 cases of all-­County, but has gone to Niagara for fruit for some brands in order to get inventory up and running, and to indulge a personal passion for Gewurztraminer. But his 2009 County Chardonnay Reserve is unmistakeably mineral driven, just like the previous Huff Chardonnays.

Symons has a very small production 2009 Pinot Noir Reserve Particulaire ($50.00, winery only) that is shock-­ ingly profound and well structured, though still two years away from achieving a state of grace.

90 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Nearby on Royal Road itself, Exultet is preparing to release yet another blockbuster Pinot called The Be-­ loved. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a single-­barrel, estate-­ grown 2009 that also sports amazing colour depth and very lifted aromas of violets and blackberry that re-­ mind me of Pinots from neighbour Long Dog. Winemaker Gerry Spino-­ sa says it was sourced from a block where he had been ruthless with his green harvest, bringing yields to very low levels. It explains the dif-­ Ă&#x20AC;FXOW\ RI WKH YLQWDJH RYHUDOO The summer growing season was so cool and wet and behind the clock that he began to thin fruit early in the hope of getting some of it ripe.

But the weather turned warm and dry on Labour Day and stayed that way through most of September and at last half of October, allowing catch-­up ripeness.

Other winemakers are pleased with their 2009 Pinots for the same reason â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this earlier-­ripening grape was saved by the tail end of the season, making wines that are gen-­ HUDOO\ ULSH ZLWK Ă&#x20AC;QH DFLGLW\ PRGHU-­ ate tannin and full expression of the County terroir. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, there is a growing community of very good Pinots to choose from. By May 1st, I had tasted almost all of them, even though some may not be released yet, and some were still in barrel.

They certainly differ through wine-­ making interpretation, but there is FOHDUO\ D FHUWDLQ YLEUDQF\ Ă RUDOLW\ DQG Ă&#x20AC;QHVVH WKDW LV FODVVLF &RXQW\ , am particularly encouraged and impressed by 2009 Pinots from The 2OG 7KLUG .HLQW +H 7UXPSRXU¡V 0LOO Rosehall Run and Norman Hardie.

In the spring, when this was penned, very few 2010s were released, but I have had some interesting and controversial wines from Closson Chase and Lacey Estate. Closson Chase is controversial by nature, as winemaker Deborah Paskus always VHHNV WKH Ă&#x20AC;QHVW WH[WXUH DQG EHVW depth she can achieve, albeit with

PERSPECTIVES

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VRPHWLPHV LGLRV\QFUDWLF Ă DYRXU SUR-­ Ă&#x20AC;OHV +HU XQRDNHG &ORVVRQ &KDVH 2010 Sans ChĂŞne Chardonnay) is amazingly textured and exotic, and you would swear by the evolved colour and complexity that it had been in oak. She has also made a silky, dry, very pale copper-­toned rosĂŠ with distinct Pinot Noir under-­ EUXVK GULHG UHG FXUUDQW Ă DYRXUV $W neighbouring Lacey Estate on Clos-­ VRQ 5RDG .LPEDOO /DFH\ ZKR DV-­ sists at Closson Chase) has turned heads with a fascinating 2010 Pinot Gris that has taken on the quite re-­ markable pink/grey pearl colour of the Pinot Gris grape, whose skin at ripeness makes it look more like a red grape than a white one. Lacey reports that this failed VQA twice for being atypical, but it is â&#x20AC;&#x201C; through my eyes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a classic.

We end on a sweet -­-­and hopefully uplifting -­-­ note. I have mentioned in the past that the hybrid Vidal grape is becoming increasingly popular in the County for sparkling wines and sweet wines and the occasional ta-­ ble wine. Well, so is another hybrid FDOOHG )URQWHQDF *ULV D EURQ]H SXU-­ ple skinned, aromatic variety with a very low winter freeze threshold. It was introduced by the University of Minnesota Horticultural Research Centre in 2003. The skin colour lends to the making of rosÊ, but its real strength is in dessert wines. And you need no further proof than the smashing Huff 2010 Zero de Gris, PDGH E\ WKH DOZD\V LQTXLVLWLYH )Up-­ dÊric Picard. The very cool name was selected by Huff from submis-­ sions to a naming contest conduct-­ ed over the internet.

So as you head out for a weekend wine tour in Niagara and The Coun-­ ty this summer, think twice. Think DERXW JRLQJ DW OHDVW WZLFH <RX¡OO need that much time to enjoy the fruits of our Ontario winemakersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; la-­

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:+(5( 72 67$< ($7 NIAGARA REGIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS

Niagara-­on-­the-­Lake, ON 1.905.468.0997 evak@vaxxine.com www.grandvictorian.ca

%HG DQG %UHDNIDVW Atherton House B&B 4265 21st St Vineland, ON 1.877.562.8902 905-­562-­8902 info@athertonhousebb.com www.athertonhousebb.com Black Walnut Manor 4255 Victoria Ave. Vineland, ON 1.800.859.4786 or 905.562.8675 blackwalnutmanor@sympatico.ca www.blackwalnutmanor.com &ORYHU )LHOG +RXVH 1879 Lakeshore Road, Niagara-­on-­the-­Lake, ON 1.905.468.7377 www.v-­ip.com/clover FORYHUÀHOG#V\PSDWLFR FD Touch of Spice Guest House 3849 Victoria Avenue Vineland, ON 905.562.0319 info@touchofspiceguesthouse.com www.touchofspiceguesthouse.com

Grand Victorian 15618 Niagara Parkway

+RWHOV Best Western Beacon Harbourside Inn & Suites Conference Centre 2793 Beacon Boulevard, Jordan, ON 1.888.823.2266 bookings@bwbeacon.com www.bwbeacon.com Comfort Inn St. Catharines 2 Dunlop Drive St. Catharines, ON 1.877.289.9015 cn303@whg.com www.choicehotels.ca/cn303 Days Inn St. Catharines 89 Meadowvale Drive, St. Catharines, ON 1.888.688.2325 sales@heartofniagarahotels.com www.heartofniagarahotels.com )RXU 3RLQWV E\ 6KHUDWRQ St. Catharines 3530 Schmon Parkway Thorold, ON 1.877.848.3782 info@fourpointsstcatharines.com www.fourpoints.com/stcatharines Holiday Inn St. Catharines 2 North Service Road St. Catharines, ON 1.877.737.8011

94 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

sales@heartofniagarahotels.com www.heartofniagarahotels.com Quality Hotel Parkway Convention Centre 327 Ontario Street St. Catharines, ON 1.877.737.8012 sales@heartofniagarahotels.com www.heartofniagarahotels.com Travelodge St. Catharines 420 Ontario Street St. Catharines, ON 905.688.1646 inn13140@yahoo.ca www.travelodge.com REGIONAL NIAGARA RESTAURANTS Bistro/Wine Bar Old Winery Restaurant and Wine Bar ([HFXWLYH &KHI: Tony DeLuca 1HLJKERXUKRRG: Niagara-­on-­the-­ Lake, ON 5HVHUYDWLRQV: 905.468.8900 Address: 2228 Niagara Stone Rd. www.theoldwineryrestaurant.com :LQHU\ 5HVWDXUDQW Cave Spring Cellars 3836 Main Street Jordan, Ontario, L0R 1S0 Canada 1.905.562.3581 ext. 302 1.888.806.9910 retail@cavespring.ca

WHERE TO STAY & EAT

www.cavespringcellars.com Ravine Vineyard Chefs: Collin Goodine & Paul Harber 1HLJKERXUKRRG St. Davidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, ON 5HVHUYDWLRQV 905.262.8463 Address: <RUN 5RDG www.ravinevineyard.com )DUP WR 7DEOH &XLVLQH Treadwellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ([HFXWLYH &KHI Stephen Treadwell 1HLJKERXUKRRG Port Dalhousie, ON Address: 61 Lakeport Road 5HVHUYDWLRQV 905.934.9797 www.treadwellcuisine.com (OHJDQW &DVXDO 'LQLQJ Restaurant Oban Inn ([HFXWLYH &KHI Wes Lesco Niagara-­on-­the-­Lake, ON 5HVHUYDWLRQV 905.468.2165 Address: )URQW 6WUHHW www.obaninn.ca

35,1&( (':$5' &2817< REGIONAL ACCOMMODATIONS %HG DQG %UHDNIDVW Hillsdale House Bed & Breakfast 332 Main Street %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG 21 613.393.2952 dianemilan@sympatico.ca www.bbcanada.com/625.html ZZZ EORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOGRQWDULR FD &RWWDJH 5HQWDOV Sandbanks Vacations *Various Cottage Rentals

1.877.399.2508 or 613.476.7378 www.sandbanksvacations.com

Address: 343 Main St. Picton www.merrillinn.com

County Holiday Homes 1.866.576.5993 www.countyholidayhomes.com info@countyholidayhomes.com

Bistro/Wine Bar Blumen Garden Bistro &KHI $QGUHDV )HOOHU Neighbourhood: Picton. ON. Reservations: 613.476.6841 Address: 647 Hwy. 49 Picton www.blumengardenbistro.com

+RWHOV ,QQV Inn at Huff Estates 2274 County Road 1 %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG 2QWDULR 613.393.1414 www.huffestates.com

East and Main Bistro Chef: Lilly Sullivan Neighbourhood: Wellington, ON. Reservations: 613.399.5420 Address: 270 Main St.Wellington, ON www.eastandmain.ca

The Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Inn 145 Main St. Picton, ON 613-­476-­8618 888-­476-­8618 thequeensinn@reach.net www.portpictonhomes.com

Capers Brasserie Chef: Jeff Camacho Neighbourhood: Belleville, ON. Reservations: 613.968.7979 $GGUHVV )URQW 6W %HOOHYLOOH 21 www.capers.ca

35,1&( (':$5' &2817< REGIONAL RESTAURANTS

,WDOLDQ 5HJLRQDO (OHPHQWDO )UHQFK 7KH %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG &DUULDJH +RXVH Restaurant &KHI 6FRWW .DSLWDQ 1HLJKERXUKRRG %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG 21 Reservations: 613.393.1087 $GGUHVV 0DLQ 6W %ORRPĂ&#x20AC;HOG www.bloomfieldcarriagehouse. com Restaurant at the Merrill Inn Chef: Michael Sullivan Neighbourhood: Picton, ON. Reservations: 613.476.7451

Casa Dea Estates Chef: Joshua Labelle Neighbourhood: Rosehall, ON Reservations: 613.399.3939 Address: 1186 Greer Rd., Hillier www.casadeaestates.com CafĂŠ Harden & Huyse Chocolates 201 Division St. Cobourg, ON. 905.377.9917 www.greatchocolate.com

GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER| 2011 95

DID YOU KNOW

Did You Know? ,//8675$7,21 %< 6 : %((.

ARTICLE AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN OUR PRINT AND iPAD EDITION. Pick up a copy on newsstands across Canada, including: Shopper’s Drugmart, Chapters, Indigo, Loblaws, and more! iPad edition available on iTunes.

96 GRAPEVINE MAGAZINE SUMMER | 2011

Since opening our cellar doors in 1997, we’ve been called a lot of things: bold, innovative, gutsy, obsessive, quirky, unique - even culty, and surely a few things unfit to print. Yet our vision has never wavered and the recognition we’ve earned over the years is a test-- ament to the importance of sticking to your grapes. Cheers!

[

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Triple Gold Medal winner at Cuvée 2008, 2009, 2010 + 2011 Voted one of the top 1O Ontario wineries, Canadian Wine Awards

Serious wines from an irreverent bunch.

Retail Store and Tasting Bar: Open Daily May – Oct 10-6 The Deck @ Creekside: Weekend Lunches 11-3 June – October www.creeksidewine.com CREEKSIDE ESTATE WINERY 2170 FOURTH AVENUE, JORDAN, ONTARIO, CANADA 1.905. 562.0035

WAYNE GRETZKY ESTATE WINERY Since its inception in 2007, Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery has achieved critical acclaim and won numerous national awards. You can find Wayne’s wines in every province and all of them are proudly 100% VQA, grown in Niagara.

“Having my own winery in Niagara allows me to contribute to the growing reputation of wines from a region that’s close to my heart and to my home town. Each wine has been created in the service of my foundation and I am very proud of the fact that with every bottle you enjoy, we’re able to help kids in communities across Canada”

Open daily, this winery is a destination for hockey fans and wine enthusiasts alike. visitors to Wayne Gretzky Estate Winery can view Gretzky memorabilia as they taste the full portfolio of Gretzky wine at our tasting bar. Limited edition wines and merchandise available exclusively at the winery.

Visit us or shop on line at

WWW.GRETZKYESTATEWINES. COM Retail Store Hours: Summer : Monday – Sunday 10 am – 6 pm Winter: Monday – Sunday 10 am – 5 pm 3751 King St., Vineland, ON. L0R 2C0 Phone: 905.562.4945 Fax: 905.562.5761 Email: retail@gretzkyestatewines.com

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;Really very Burgundian.

Real density. Norman Hardie PZ KLĂ&#x201E; UP[P]LS` H UHTL [V ^H[JO š Âś 1HUJPZ 9VIPUZVU !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quite simply the best Pinot Noir I have tasted in Ontarioâ&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Tony Aspler !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ç&#x2013;SH[&M\K !Ç&#x201C;4) Ç?QDC Ç?YY@ Ç&#x161;*M Ç&#x201D;DĹł !Ç&#x2030;DJDĹłCR ""#$!%&''&!()*+,!(-(-"!./00/'&,!123*&/) 4"5-566-#$67!888-2)&9*2:*&+/'-;)9 6\Y ^PULZ HYL H]HPSHISL H[ [OL ^PULY` VY JHU IL VYKLYLK [OYV\NO V\Y ^LIZP[L