How does street art influence the modern fashion industry?

EXPLOREVARI OUSEXAMPLES OFSTREETFASHI ON OVER THELAST20YEARSAND ANDANAL YSETHEI NFLUENCE ON BOTH DESI GNERAND MAI NSTREAM GENRES,AND/ ORHOW I TI SREPRESENTED I N THEMEDI A C O U R T N E Y G L O V E R / F A S H I O N C U L T U R E A N D C O N T E X T / A D 4 6 0 3

Fi gur e1( f r ontpage) :Al exMar di

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I NTRO DUCTI ON

I nt hi ses s ayIam goi ngt odi s cus show s t r eetarthas i nf l uencedmodernf as hi on,i nt hi scas es t r eet wear .

Res ear c hbr andsf r om t hehi ghs t r eett ocol l ect i ons comi ngof ft hecat wal ksi nt hecurr ents eas ons .How t he s ubgenr eofs t r eetartf i r s tcamet oexi s t encet hr ougha r ebel l i ousneedt ovoi ceopi ni onsf ort hos ewi t hnovoi ce.

Furt hermor e,how i ti nf l uencedt hemedi ai nbot ht hepas t andt hepr es entandhow t heexponent i algr owt hofal l f ormsofs oci almedi ahasvas t l yaccel er at edt he popul ar i t yofs t r eetartar oundt hewor l d.

“I FYOULOOK ATFASHI ON NOW,YOUSEETHATTHESTREET REALL YLEADSEVERYTHI NG” -KI MJ ONES,MENSARTI STI CDI RECTOR@ LOUI SVUI TTON

St reet weari sasubgenrewi t hi nt hef ashi on i ndust ryt hati snow al argeproport i onoft he mai nst ream marketandi scurrent l ya mul t i bi l l i ondol l arpl at f orm.Thest yl ehasbeen usedi nmanyways.Someoft hesearet oconvey success,weal t handovert heyearsi snow al arge i ndi cat orofsoci alst at usf ormanymi l l enni al s.I t i sseenpredomi nant l yasaf orm of‘ bodyarmour’ andamet hodf ori nt i mi dat i on,part i cul arl yf or youngerpeopl et ryi ngt of i ti nt oaworl d domi nat edbyhi ghpri cepoi nt s.I ti si mport ant t ot hem t onotonl yi mpresst hei rpeersbutal so f ol l owersont hei nt erneti nt hehopesofoneday becomi ngl i kemanyoft hei ncredi bl ypopul ar t eenage‘ f ashi oni nf l uencers’aroundt hegl obe.I t revol vesaroundt heartofbei ngcool ,andi t s current l yt hemosti mport ant ,i nf l uent i aland f ast growi nggenreoff ashi on!

St reet wearwasi ni t i al l ydevel opedoutofaf ew st apl esf rom wi t hi nawardrobeconsi st i ngof sport swear ,workwearandcombatwear .I ti san amal gamat i onoft heset hreeel ement sbei ng rei magi nedandusedi ndi f f erentwayst ocreat e out f i t st hatf reet hemsel vesf rom t heori gi nal i nt endeduseoft hesegarment s.St reet wear combi neddi f f erentel ement sf rom t hesest yl es, put t i ngt hem i nanew set t i ng-remi xi ng, readapt i ng-t ocreat enew meani ng.St reet wear t odayadopt savari et yofsubcul t urest hathave comet oget hert ogi veanel ementofi dent i t y, bel ongi ngandasenseoff ami l y andsoi tcrosses boundari esofage,raceandgender .I t ’ sl ong t ageandt radi t i onhave hi st oryofheri cont i nual l yi nspi redt henextgenerat i on,gi vi ng t hem amessageofsol i dari t y,resi st anceand provi di ngavoi ce.I t sst yl easadai l yaest het i c i nvol vest hepract i ceandperf ormanceofanart f orm.

St reet wearal socrossesgenderl i nes, crossgenderbuyi ngandweari ngofcl ot hesi s cruci alt ot heeverchangi ngdevel opmentoft he genre.Fi rst l ywi t hpunk,womenst art ed changi ngt hest ereot ypesof t enassoci at edwi t h f emi ni ni t yandmascul i ni t ybybuyi ngand adapt i ngsecondhandmenswear-shi rt s, j acket s,t rousers,shoes-andusi ngt hesewi t h t radi t i onalf emal egarment s( e. g.weari nganol d weddi ngdresswi t hDocMart enboot s)asaf orm ofrebel l i onagai nstcl assi cgenderedst yl es. “ I nt he‘ 90sIhadashavedheadandworebaggy carpent ert rousers,t i ghtTshi rt sandskat e shoes,asIt ot al l yrej ect edt hePamel aAnderson i dealofbeaut y” -Wi l ma

h o l o c a u s t Thebi rt hofst reetartact ual l yhappenedbacki nt heearl y1960s,ont hest reet sofPari s.One oft hef i rstart i st st ouseaspraycanasabrushandci t ywal lasacanvaswasGerard Zl ot ykami en,aPol i shJew whohadf l edt oFrancet oescapet heNazi sduri ngWorl dWarI I .He begant opai nt‘ LesEphemeres’ –t hesamepai nt i ngoverandoveragai nofaf i gureandi t s react i ont ot heHol ocaust .Thereasonhedi dt hi swasdownt ot hef actt hatmaki nggraf f i t ii n t heurbanspaceduri ngt hi st i mewasawayt osendamessagewhi l ei twasf orbi ddent o verbal l yvoi ceyouropi ni onal bei ti l l egal ,butnecessary.

Fi gure2:Bl ekLeRatWi ki pedi a

Someoneel sewhowasi nf l uent i al i nearl yst reetartandwasheavi l y i nf l uencedbybot hZl ot ykami en andgraf f i t ii nt he1970’ swasBl ek LeRatwhospentnumerousyears del i berat i ngt heconceptofhow t o t aket hecl assi cNew York ‘ f reest yl e’graf f i t iandt ransf orm i nt osomet hi ngel se.Bl ekhad experi encedal otofpol i t i cal st enci lartf i rsthandaf t erWorl d WarI Iandt hroughcombi ni ngt he memori esoft hesewi t ht he graf f i t ihehadseeni nNYCi nt he ‘ 70’ s,andt aki ngi nspi rat i onf rom t hesi l kscreenandcharcoal art worksofErnestPi gnonErnest ( at ruest reetartpi oneer) ,t hat st reetst enci lartwascreat ed.

Bl ekst art edoutst enci l l i ngrat s aroundt hest reet sofPari si n 1981andt hi sevol vedt of ul lsi ze f i guresandt hencl assi cal scul pt uresremi xedi nt ost enci l s andappl i edt ot heurbanwal l sof t hemodernci t y,payi nghomaget o t hest reetpost erworkofPi gnon Ernest .Thi smovet ost enci l l i ng hadamaj ori nf l uenceon desi gnerswhoweregeneral l y heavi l yi nf l uencedbyst reetart andgraf f i t i ;Shepard‘ Obey’Fai rey andBi l l i onai reBoysCl ubaret wo pri meexampl es.

‘ A L I F E WA S B A S E DO NT H E S T R E E T .

B E F O R E WE O P E N E DO U RS P A C E WE R E N T E DAL O C A T I O N .

I P U T T H E WO R DO U T T OT H E G R A F F I T I C O M M U N I T YT H E YWE R E T H E O N L YP E O P L E I WA S I N T O U C HWI T HT H A T WE WE R E O P E N I N GAP L A T F O R M / WO R K S H O P / C R E A T I V E S P A C E / WH A T E V E R , A N DWE WA N T E DT H E MT OB E I N V O L V E D .

WE E N D E DU PS E T T I N GAT I M E A N DD A T E T OM E E T , A N DWE H A DAM E E T I N GWI T HF I F T YO RS I X T YP E O P L E B E F O R E WE O P E N E DT H E S T O R E .

T H E S E WE R E A L L T H E C R E A T I V E P E O P L E B E F O R E T H E S H I T B E C A M E WH A T I T I S .

T H E S E WE R E P E O P L E L I K E E S P O , R E E S E , K A WS T H E P E O P L E WH OWE R E G R A F F I T I WR I T E R S B U T R E A D YT OT A K E I T T OT H E N E X T L E V E L A N DA T T H E T I M E T H E R E WA S N OO T H E RV E N U E F O RI T .

T H E R E WA S N ’ T AB I GM O V E M E N T G O I N GO N .

A L I F E H A S B E E NB A S E D O NT H I S K I N DO F A R T S I D E O F T H I N G S F R O MT H E B E G I N N I N G .

WE D I D N ’ T H A V E C L O T H I N G , WE D I D N ’ T H A V E F O O T WE A R ; WE H A DAS P A C E F O RA R T .

T H E NT H E C L O T H I N GC A M E A N DA L L T H E S H I T C A M E A F T E RWE H A DM A D E E N O U G HN O I S E F R O MT H E S H I T T H A T WE WE R E D O I N G . ’ R O BC R I S T O F A R O , F O U N D E R , A L I F E

Fi gure3:al i f enewyork. com

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Att hebegi nni ngoft he21st cent ury,urbanartwast hemost provocat i veexpressi onoff ree speecharound.I twas,l i t eral l y, artf ort hest reet s,i nt hatanyone coul dchecki toutandappreci at e i t( ornot ) .Thi srol l edoveri nt o whatt hepeopl ewhowere appreci at i ngt hi sartwere weari ng.Thepri nt sandscreens andot herdesi gnel ement sof st reet weargarment sweresoon i nf l uencedbyt heaest het i cof st reetart .Thi sl edt obrandssuch asCarhart tset t i ngupgal l eri es andspacest hatwoul dnurt ure art i st sandhel pt hem devel op.

Anart i cl eont heI Dwebsi t e di scussest het opi cofhow st reetarti snow bei ngusedt orai seawarenessi npol i t i cs,andhow i ti s st i l lbei ngusedt orai seopi ni onsf ort hosewi t hnovoi ce( t heSyri an’ si nt hi scase)j ustt hesameas how i tgavevoi cet ot hosewi t houtonebacki nt hebegi nni ng.Theart i cl et al ksaboutt henew st reet arti nCamdenwhi chi spartofaproj ectf rom t heBri t i shRedCross.Theyhavecommi ssi oneda st reetart i stt opai ntaref ugeei nspi redmurali nCamdent orai seawarenessofTheLongRoad.I t f eat urest hef aceofaSyri anref ugee,AymanHi rhwhowasf orcedt ol eaveSyri aandhi ssuccessf ul j ob."

I thasbeengreatt omeetPANGandsharemyst oryt hrought hi sst reetartmuralandt obe i nvol vedi nt heproj ectasawhol e, "saysAyman,oneofanst aggeri ngni nemi l l i onref ugeest hatare est i mat edt ohavef l edSyri asi ncet heout breakofci vi lwari n2011."

Ihopet hatmyexperi enceand t heal bum wi l lencouragepeopl et ot hi nkaboutt hereasonspeopl el i kemearef orcedt ol eavehome bef oret heyj udgeus" .( Whi t ehouse,2016)

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Oneoft hepi oneersi ncont emporarybasedst reet wearwasFrank‘ Shepard Fi gure20 Fai rey’ .ShepardFai reyi sanAmeri cangraphi cart i standsoci alact i vi st .Fai rey bl urst heboundarybet weent radi t i onalandcommerci alartt hrought ypeand i mage,communi cat i nghi sbrandofsoci alcri t i quevi adi spl ayi ngart worki n publ i cspaces.“ Arti snotal waysmeantt obedecorat i veorsoot hi ng,i nf act ,i t cancreat euncomf ort abl econversat i onsandst i mul at euncomf ort abl eemot i ons, ” hest at ed.

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“STREETART,W HEATPASTESANDTHATKI ND OFSHI TBECAMEAW HOLEPHENOMENON. BUTTO ME, YOU KNOW,SHEPARD FAI REY THATWASTHEDUDE.YOU KNOW W HATI ’ M SAYI NG.THATWASTHEDUDE.IREMEMBER BEI NG I N THEMI DDLEOFTHECROSSBRONX EXPRESSWAY,PAI NTI NG HI GHWAYS,AND BEI NG LI KE‘ W HATTHEFUCK I STHI SANDRE THEGI ANTFACEON A LAMPPOSTI N THE MI DDLEOFTHEHI GHWAY?’LI KEBACK. . .THI S WASBACK I N THELATE‘ 80S.THOSEARETHE PEOPLE,THEPI ONEERSOFW HATEVERTHEY AREDOI NG,W HETHER I TBEFASHI ON, W HETHER I TBEART.THI SI STHESHI TTHAT GETSUSEXCI TED.THI SI STHECLASSI CSOF THEGAME.THAT’ SW HO W ELI KETO MESS WI TH. ” -RobCri st of aro

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OBEYCl ot hi ngwasf oundedont he basi sofart ,desi gnandi deal sof ShepardFai rey.Whatst art edf or Fai reywi t hanabsurdst i ckerhe creat edi n1989whi l est udyi ngatt he RhodeI sl andSchoolofDesi gnhas si nceevol vedi nt oaworl dwi dest reet artcampai gn,aswel lasanaccl ai med bodyoff i neart .OBEYCl ot hi ngwas creat edi n2001asawayt oext end Shepard’ sbodyofwork.Al i gnedwi t h hi spopul i stvi ews,cl ot hi ngbecame anot heravenuet ospreadhi sartand messaget ot hemasses.Thecl ot hi ngi s heavi l yi nspi redbysomeoft he st reet wearessent i al s,bei ngcl assi c mi l i t arydesi gn,workwearbasi cs,as wel last heel ement sandcul t ural movement sShepardhasbasedhi sart careeron.

Al t hought hehi ghst reeti st hemai n f ocusf orst reetarti nf l uencedi t ems i thasbegunmaki ngi t swayt ot he cat wal kf ormorel uxurybrandsasi t i sbecomi ngmorepopul arwi t hi n f ashi on.Anexampl eoft hi si sLoui s Vui t t on’ scol l aborat i on,t heI t al i an powerhousehascol l aborat edwi t h Ai ko,Ret naandOsGêmeos.Thi s col l ect i onwaspresent edi nTokyoi n t heDoverSt reetMarketbout i que.

St reetartherei shi ghl i ght edby t hreeart i st s:Ai korevi si t st hei coni c Vui t t onmot i f ,t henspl at t ersi twi t h vi brantcol ours.Theworkoft heOs Gêmeost wi nsi sami cromosai cof sol arandl unarmot i f s.Ameri can art i stRet nat akesi nspi rat i onf rom cal l i graphyandcreat esa hi erogl yphi cwat ercol ourpi ecei n t ransparentpast el s,t heent i ret hi ng mashedupwi t hgraf f i t iand mangaesqueel ement s.Thi s col l ect i oni ssoavant gardet hati ti s bei ngpresent edl i keaworkofart .

Cashmere,si l k,andgraf f i t icome t oget hert omakef oraf l ashy, col ourf ul ,andal l uri ngscarfi nwhat i st hecrossroadsbet weenhi ghend f ashi onandst reetart .

Anot herexampl eofal uxurybrand t aki ngi nspi rat i onf rom t he‘ st reet s’

andst reetarti sMoschi no’ sAW15 col l ect i ont hatf eat uredf ul ll engt h bal lgownst hatwerehi ghl i ght edby mul t i pl egraf f i t ipi ecessprawl i ng acrosst hegarment s.Thecont rast bet weenwhati st radi t i onal l yavery el egantdresswi t ht herough, avant gardel ookofgraf f i t icomes t oget hert of orm api ecet hatwas bornbyt hef ashi onhouses,and al mostupcycl edt of i ti nl i newi t h t hef ashi onatt het i me.

A morerecentcol l ect i ont hatshows t hepowerofst reetartwi t hi n f ashi oni st heBurberrySS18 cat wal ki nLondonwhi chdi spl ayed ri chandvi branti t emsrangi ngf rom oversi zedf l eecehoodi est ocapes.

Thi scol l ect i onpurposef ul l ycarri ed anel ementofst reet weart i edwi t h st reetartvi besi nordert ocreat e t hei l l usi onofrai nbow i nsupportof LGBTQ+yout hcommuni t i es ( Bowri ng,2018) .Theuseoft hese col ourst hroughoutgi vest hei l l usi on t hatt heywerepri nt edont ot he pi ecesi nordert ocreat easi mi l ar pal et t et ot hatofgraf f i t i .However , upcl oset hegarment sareheavi l y embel l i shedwi t hsequi ns,wool sand gemswhi chhel pscont ri but et ot he bri l l i antcol oursonshow.

Onei mport antaspectt hathaspropel l ed t hepopul ari t yoft herecent l uxury/ st reetartcol l aborat i onsi st he useoft hemedi at ohel ppromot e awareness.Theuseoft hemedi at odayi s i mperat i vet ot hewayabrandwi l l marketi t sel fast hemagazi nesort hei r versal l yt hef ast estway websi t esareuni t ogai naccesst ot hemostrecentrunway showswi t houtphysi cal l ybei ngt here.

Nowadaysyoudonothavet oat t enda show andspeakt ot hemembersoft he presst ounderst andhow i twas percei ved.I nst ead,prompt l yaf t ert he showsi nt henextedi t i onofyour f avouri t ef ashi onmagazi net herewi l lbe acomprehensi verevi ew oft hecat wal k andwhatwasi mpressi veornot ,i ft hat wast hecase.

Theageoft hei nt ernethascompl et el y changedaccessi bi l i t yf oral lt hi ngs, i ncl udi ngst reetartandst reet wear .

Whatwasonceani cheartf orm t hatwas hardt ol ocat e,st reetarti snow wi del y accessi bl eandi sf l ouri shi ngbecauseof t hei nt ernet .I thasbecomevi t ali nt he evol ut i onofst reetart ,i thaspl ayedan ext remel yi mport antrol ei nt heway t hatst reet weari smarket ed.Justas peopl ebeganf ol l owi ngt hei rf avouri t e st reetart i stonl i net heysoondi scovered t heshopst hatweresel l i ngt hespray pai ntt oproducest reetartwereal so nspi redst reet wear sel l i ngst reetarti andt hust hedi gi t alshopwi ndow was born.

Theri ch,di versemedi ast ream oft he i nt erneti sj ustwhatt hegl obalyout h hadbeenwai t i ngf or .I thasopenedupa whol enew worl dofwayst o communi cat eandt osel l ,andbecauseof t hi si thast ransf ormedt hewaysi n whi chst reet weari snurt ured,promot ed andconsumed.

CONC LUSI ON Toconcl ude,It hi nkst reetart massi vel yi nf l uencesacert ai n aspectwi t hi nst reet wear .

Part i cul arl y,t hi sresonat eswi t h brandst ryi ngt oconnectwi t h usersofsoci almedi aand mi l l enni al s.Theuseofst reetart canhel pabrandreconnectwi t h moderncul t ureandi mport ant pol i t i cali ssueswi t hi nt oday’ s soci et y.St reetartof t enref l ect s t hevoi ceoft hemassesandi n associ at i ngi t sel fwi t ht hata brandcani mprovepopul ari t y wi t hmaj ori t yoft hepopul at i on.

Thewaysoci almedi acurrent l y si t s,i tmakeseverybi tof i nf ormat i onavai l abl ei nst ant l y meani ngst reetart i st scanshoot t of amei nsecondsandbrands now havet obeext remel yawareof whatsoci almedi awi l lt hi nkof t hei rl at estcol l ect i onast hi scan makeorbreakanupcomi ng brand.Asst reetarti snow ext remel yemot i vet heuseof st reetartwi t hi nf ashi oncanhel p el aborat eonamessaget hata m yhavewant brandma edt ocarry wi t hi nt hei rl at estshow.

REFER ENCES Adz,K. ,& St one,W.( 2018) .Thi si snotf ashi on.St reet wear .Past ,presentandf ut ure( pp.2031) .

Farnborough:Thames& HudsonLt d.

Adz,K. ,& St one,W.( 2018) .Thi si snotf ashi on.St reet wear .Past ,presentandf ut ure( pp.

242255) .Farnborough:Thames& HudsonLt d.

Adz,K. ,& St one,W.( 2018) .Thi si snotf ashi on.St reet wear .Past ,presentandf ut ure( pp.

256271) .Farnborough:Thames& HudsonLt d.

Pet t y,F.( 2017) .st reetart i stdanwi t zdi scusseshi sdi orhommecol l aborat i on.I DVi ce.

Ret ri eved7Apri l2018,f rom ht t ps: / / i d. vi ce. com/ en_uk/ art i cl e/ mb3x3v/ st reet art i st danwi t zdi orhommecol l aborat i on Syf ret ,W.( 2016) .ani coni cf emi ni stmuralhasbeendef acedandremovedi nmel bourne.I D Vi ce.Ret ri eved9Apri l2018,f rom ht t ps: / / i d. vi ce. com/ en_uk/ art i cl e/ 9kbmep/ ani coni cf emi ni st mural hasbeendef acedandremo vedi nmel bourne Whi t ehouse,M.( 2016) .new st reetarti ncamdenrai sesawarenessoft heref ugeeexperi ence.I D Vi ce.Ret ri eved9Apri l2018,f rom ht t ps: / / i d. vi ce. com/ en_uk/ art i cl e/ 59gnpq/ newst reet art i ncamdenrai sesawarenessof t heref ugeeexperi ence

Fi gure1: ht t ps: / / www. ni chol asgooddenphot ography. co. uk/ l ondonst reet art andgraf f i t i phot ography/ al e xmardi Fi gure2:ht t ps: / / en. wi ki pedi a. org/ wi ki / Bl ek_l e_Rat #/ medi a/ Fi l e: Bl ek_l e_Rat . j pg Fi gure3:ht t ps: / / al i f enewyork. com/ gure4: Fi ht t ps: / / i d. vi ce. com/ en_uk/ art i cl e/ 59gnpq/ newst reet art i ncamdenrai sesawarenessof t heref ugeeexperi ence Fi gure5: ht t ps: / / 1. bp. bl ogspot . com/ ABFQ4i b5TX8/ UmqMi yveWI / AAAAAAABH4I / d3DacsUyl OU/ s1600/ ShepardFai reyHonest Gi l Sol dPost er . j pg Fi gure6:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ wrongpat hl argef ormat / Fi gure7:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ horrorbusi nesst omb/ Fi gure8:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ oi l l ot uswoman/ Fi gure9:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ obeypri nt i ngpress/ Fi gure10:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ gol denf ut uref orsome/ Fi gure11:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ l at ehourri ot / Fi gure12:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ bl oodoi l mandal aoi l drop/ Fi gure13:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ prophet sragenewdayri si ng/ Fi gure14:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ dovegeomet ri c/ Fi gure15:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ debbyharrydoom/ Fi gure16:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ peaceguard2st enci l l i sbon/ Fi gure17:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ bi t chesareback/ Fi gure18:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ wel comevi si t or/ Fi gure19:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ j ef f hozephyrgol d/ Fi gure20:ht t ps: / / obeygi ant . com/ pri nt s/ f ossi l f act ory/ Fi gure21:ht t ps: / / obeycl ot hi ng. co. uk/ wpcont ent / upl oads/ 2018/ 04/ bl ock_2. j pg

I MAGE REFERENCES