Will the Fur Industry affect the design and production of Fashion Lines? - A debate

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introduction

history of fur in fashion

state of fur today

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status

environmental issues

ethical issues

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veganism movement

the future of fur

conclusion

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Figure 1 NOW FASHION EDITORIAL | La Révoltée

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THE FUR DEBATE

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INTRODUCTION As part of our Fashion Culture and Society module, we were asked to research into current issues and contemporary cultures within the fashion industry. The fur industry is a hotly debated topic and something I have always shown an interest in and choosing the question ‘Are the changing values of consumers influencing the design and production of fashion lines? Give three examples.’ has allowed me to further my research and delve deeper into the world of fur in the fashion industry. I chose to focus on three different examples of values that are changing as I believe customer values help to shape and mould the fashion industry, the three values I have chose are; the status that fur has and once had, the environmental effects of the fur industry and how consumers feel towards it and how consumer value ethics in the fur industry.

The i-D website is something I am consistently drawn to, and the magazine tends to target controversial subjects within the fashion industry. One subject they have recently spoken about is the fur industry with an article titled ‘waking up and going fur free’. I feel this is an extremely important debate currently circling the industry and is heavily driven by the demands of the ‘millennials’. Real or faux, fur is a debatable topic with some serious environmental issues on both sides. In this essay I will debate the issues the industry is combating with fur and the demands for technological advances in order to meet consumers new values and attitudes towards fur.

Figure 2 ‘Free from Fur’ shoot Photographer: Courtney Glover

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history of fur in fashion

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Figure 3 | Fur Fashion Show, 1960s. | Photo: STRINGER/Stringer

Figure 1 NOW FASHION EDITORIAL | La Révoltée

Within the fashion industry, fur has a huge history.

It is a material that in previous decades would symbolise wealth and status. However, today fur can be seen in a variety of ways. Some view it still as a symbolisation of wealth but others have a completely different opinion on the material and consider it as a ‘fashion disaster’. Fur can be dated back to as early as the 11th Century according to Yvette Mahe (2011) who stated that in some Western European societies some forms of fur such as mink, sable and chinchilla were only available for the royalty and other high class citizens. It was considered so important socially that laws were put in force to establish a class system via the clothing people wore which specifically targeted the fur chosen, for example, during 1294 in France, a Royal Ordinance passed stating that no man or woman of the middle class had the right to wear ermine or vair (Boucher, n.d., p179-180).

The same was put in place for the lower class which meant lower class women were strictly prohibited to wear any fur other than the fur of foxes, otters and small burrowing rodents (Tortora & Eubank, 2010, p.

157).

Machines that made the production of fur cheaper and quicker only became available in the 19th Century according to Stone, 2008 (p. 174-175.) Previously, removing the hair and flesh from the fur would be time consuming as this was done by hand; however, the machines that were invented enabled this all to be done without human interaction. Due to this advancement in technology the fur produced was now lighter and more manageable.

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However, brands have recently turned away from using fur and this is due to the fact that attitudes of consumers are changing and brands need to stay in line with consumer values in order to maintain sales. Gucci launched a social media campaign in 2017 , #TFWGucci was meme-inspired engaging a new younger audience. Since then the brand has become hugely popular within the Millennial demographics, selling staple pieces such as the Gucci Ace trainers and the double G buckle belt, both staple pieces for a young person’s budget. However, having enticed this new market who account for over 50% of their customers, Gucci are being forced to cater accordingly and as of spring-summer 2018 the brand has gone fur-free (Osman Ahmed, 2017). Even though fur only made up ₏10m of its ₏6.21bn business, Gucci has noted according to Financial Times that its 69.1% rise in operating profit during 2017 was driven by millennials, a generation that follows the veganism and vegetarianism lifestyle greatly. (Charlie Porter, 2018)

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state of fur today

In 2017, fur generated $30 billion in sales globally, according to figures stated by the International Fur Federation. More than half of this figure was sourced from China with $17 billion, Europe at $7 billion is the second largest market with Russia following at $2.2 billion according to an article written by Bridget Foley in April 2018. Fur, both real and faux, maintains a massive industry despite its rising criticisms across the globe. Brands such as Canada Goose and Moncler are avid users of real fur and do not show any indications of changing their views towards the material. For Canada Goose, they have described themselves as a function first company whereby their products are designed to protect individuals in the coldest places on Earth. They believe that in these extremely cold environments fur is the best choice, having fur trims around the hood of a jacket helps to protect the face from frostbite according to Canada Goose.

Figure 4 ‘Free from fur’ shoot Photographer: Courtney Glover

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street st Figures 5, 6, 7, 8 via WGSN street style

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tyle Globally, 850 retailers are now fur free with companies such as John Lewis, Topshop and M&S, to Armani and Burberry. This is clearly a huge movement occurring in the industry, Mark Glover from Respect for Animals stated “It’s difficult to remember, but back in the mid-1980s there were something like 250 fur shops (in the UK). Every Debenhams department store used to have a very big, flash fur department. All those have gone.” (Charlie Porter, 2018) Brands are trying to think of alternatives to fur, such as Fendi who have created novelty charms aimed to capture the millennial market. They have produced handbag charms in shearling, which is sheep skin, this has allowed them to be sold in stores that have a no-fur policy such as Selfridges and Net-A-Porter. (Charlie Porter, 2018) The reasoning behind using shearling is due to the fact that shearling doesn’t fall under the definition of fur whereby “the animals are killed primarily for the value of their fur.” Mark Glover states.

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Figure 9 via Pinterest

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Does fur have a place in fashion?

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Why is everyone faking it?

Fur no longer has the status it once had with consumers having access to information about how fur is used and produced. As part of my primary research I conducted a questionnaire which received 132 responses, 81.3% of responses indicated that they had never worn an item of real fur, whether this be a piece of clothing or a garment that was trimmed with real fur. However, in comparison, 79.9% owned an item that was made of or trimmed with faux fur.

Faux fur can be so hard to distinguish from real, that most people nowadays buy into faux garments as this is more ethically moral.

With technology developing every day, faux fur is looking more like the real thing, enabling consumers to achieve the look of wearing animal skin without the moral responsibility. The once cheap and itchy material is now a luxe, highly affordable and believable version!

The demand for faux fur is ever increasing as the industries secrets surrounding animal welfare are being released. Luxury companies are wanting to invest in a newer faux fur that is environmentally friendly, in order to meet consumers demands but beats the quality of furs sold on the high street.

Due to the concerns surrounding animal welfare, fur farming bans are increasingly spreading globally. More and more countries are phasing out fur farming and enforcing stricter laws which has resulted in fur farms shutting down as they do not meet these new and stricter regulations. Outside of the UK, who banned fur in 2000 according to Fur Free Alliance, many countries have also banned fur farming. This proves that the status of fur in fashion is decreasing, with countries such as Austria, the Netherlands, Japan and Belgium. As well as the banning of fur farming, other countries and cities are beginning to ban the trading of fur, for example in March 2018 San Francisco became the second major US city to ban the sale of fur and India during the early months of 2017 banned the importation of mink, fox and chinchilla skins. (Fur Free Alliance, ‘Fur Bans’)

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Figure 10 PETA Protest Photo: Richard Vogel / Associated Press

STATUS Figure 11 LA Photo: Isaac Marley Morgan

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Figure 12 Climate Change Photo: Jim Watson

ENVIRONMENT There are negative and positive environmental considerations for using both animal fur and faux fur in the fashion industry.

Animal fur can be considered in a positive environmental light as according to Mark Oaten, CEO of the International Fur Federation, “Real fur is one of the most natural and sustainable materials used in the fashion world. It’s eco-friendly at every stage of its production, lasts for decades and is completely biodegradable.” (Harriet Brown, 2018) Keith Kaplan, director if communications at the Fur Informational Council of America states, the trapping of wild animals such as coyotes, beavers and fox accounts for approximately 15% of the trade, by helping manage otherwise growing populations. These culls provide vital work for many native communities. “The fur trade provides a crucial, finely-tuned symbiotic relationship that helps to achieve the objectives of wildlife management and conservation and society as a whole” says Kaplan. (Hilary George Parkin, 2018) Fur from certain prolific species that can be considered destructive can benefit the environment according to an article written by Alden Wicker in April 2018. For instance; nutria are destroying the Louisiana wetlands, mink are responsible for the destruction of voles in Scotland and rabbits because of the damage they are causing to native vegetation in Australia which has led several species to the point of extinction.

Fur farming results in manure run off into water courses and lakes because of the thousands of animals that can be kept on a single farm.

These farms also produce toxic chemicals that are used in the dressing and dyeing of fur. According to a study conducted in 2011 by Marijn Bijleveld, Marisa Korteland and Maartje Sevenster, the production of a single kilogram of mink fur has a higher negative environmental impact than the production of one kilogram of textiles. This is in accordance with seventeen of the eighteen environmental categories, such as climate change and toxic emissions. This is due to the enormous amount of meat and fish based feed that minks require and the N2O emissions from mink manure.

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Faux fur is made from acrylic based polyesters all of which are products of the petrochemical industry. This synthetic material is a non-renewable resource and takes hundreds of years to biodegrade in landfill tips.

From the questionnaire I conducted, I asked ‘Does it surprise you that it takes 1000 years for faux fur to decompose at landfills sites as opposed to 2-10 years for real fur?’, this received a split response with 53% stating yes and 47% stating no. I think this shocked many people as one participant stated ‘I’d never considered faux fur as having negative impacts too. I’m a bit confused now. I would only want real fur if the animal was going to be slaughtered for eating anyway and had thought that faux fur was a good alternative but I guess that needs to be created in a biodegradable manner.’

Therefore, it is clear that fashion brands and companies are going to have to find a biodegradable faux fur option to cater for the environmentally Faux fur products are the complete opposite of the concept of responsible environmental conservation according to Keith Kaplan. He continues with his condemnation of faux fur stating that petrol-based plastic fur is very harmful to the environment. “It isn’t biodegradable. Its harmful to wildlife” he argues. (Hilary George Parkin, 2018) The fashion industry is accused of filling lakes and oceans with synthetic microfibers which results in fish, marine animals and humans digesting tiny pieces of polyester and other acrylics that enter our water systems every time we wash a piece of synthetic clothing.

A 2016 study published in Environmental Science & Technology found that synthetic jackets released an average 1,174 milligrams of microfibers when washed.

(Hilary George Parkin, 2018) These fibres are so small that they pass straight through water treatment plants and are now according to a worldwide study are found in 83% of tap water samples. These particles are also laden with heavy metals and other toxins. (Damian Carrington, 2017). The brand Patagonia has produced a washing bag called a GUPPYFRIEND which protects synthetic clothing and reduces the amount of microfibers that may enter rivers and oceans from washing.

The design of the bag features a very smooth interior which leads to less breaking of fibres because the smoothness reduces mechanical stress and friction resulting in less fibre loss and longevity of the garments.

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Figures 13, 14, 15 The Green Vegans

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Figure 16 PETA Protestors, 1993 Photo: Bob Strong / Getty Images

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Ethical In the 21st Century it is very difficult to justify the killing of animals purely for decoration in the fashion industry. Animals who’s coats have been used as a by-product of the meat industry, such as shearling, are more acceptable in today’s society. A response received from my questionnaire stated that ‘I feel real fur is fine if the animal/meat is used for meat not just for fur.’

The Business of Fashion held a seminar at the BoFVOICES 2017 called ‘The Great Fur Debate’. One of the spokesmen at this presentation, Frank Zilberkweit, director of the British Fur Trade Association and also the chairman of the Polar Group, a British firm that previously owned Hockley, made the case for ethically correct fur farming and humane slaughtering of animals. He stated that in the fur trade there is a high standard of welfare and an old saying in the fur trade is “that you can only make a good fur coat out of a well-treated animal”.

The whole of his presentation revolved around fur farming in Europe, North America and Scandinavia and stressed that robust industrial practices are in place to ensure animal welfare in these countries. He states, in Europe alone there are 4000 fur farms, there are multiple animal welfare programs that are focused not just on how the animals are raised and killed but also what happens to the pelt afterwards and ensuring it is kept to a high standard in order to keep a clean reputation.

However, he avoided answering the question based around not all countries being as highly regulated as the ones he supported, for example, China generates more than half of the world’s fur trade per year but China does not have the same animal welfare regulations that North America and Europe hold.

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A current issue emerging in the fur industry is traceability, how do we know for sure that the faux fur we are buying is faux and not animal fur? In March 2018, Missguided, Boohoo and House of Fraser were called to give evidence to MPs following a Sky News investigation that revealed fur they were labelling as fake was actually real. (Sarah Hajibagheri, 2018) Neil Parish, chair of the Department for the Environment, Food and Rural Affairs committee, who challenged the retailers, informed Drapers that the discussion had “showed how easy it is for consumers to be misled into buying real fur as fake fur. The cost of producing real fur is so low that consumers think that low cost on products must indicate fake fur, which is not true. The priority of the committee is to ensure that consumers are aware of what they are buying, and to stop retailers selling real fur as fake fur, whether intentionally or by mistake.” (Harriet Brown, 2018) In addition to the above, Helen Moore who is the founder of her own luxury faux fur company, has stated that customers of hers have felt deceived due to the mislabeling of fur. “Lots of real fur is coming into this country very cheaply. There is also a massive movement of people going vegetarian or vegan, and that is changing how customers look at sustainable and ethical issues” she told Drapers.

She addresses the need for retailers using fake fur to be conscious when sourcing their materials to not only ensure top quality but also authenticity. “Really knowing the factories where we manufacture is very important in ensuring our faux fur is of the highest quality.” Helen demonstrates this when sourcing her own materials and states that she focuses on achieving a luxurious finish, and states that the touch of fake fur is the most important thing to consumers, she sources her fibers from Japan where she uses a mixture of short and long in most of her furs in order to create extreme softness. (Harriet Brown, 2018) I asked in my questionnaire ‘Do you think real fur and fake fur garments should be labelled clearly?’, the response was overwhelmingly 98.5% yes. This is something the fashion industry must now wake up and see, this a demand from the consumer. At the moment the only people who are capable of policing the fashion industries ethics is the fashion industry itself and they have been found to be dishonest. Perhaps laws could be introduced and enforced making labelling honest and the provenance of the material easily traceable.

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Figure 17 Khloe Kardashian in ‘Fuck Yo Fur’ via ecouterre

“that you can only make a good fur coat out of a well-treated animal” - FRANK ZILBERKWEIT

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VEGANI VEGET

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Figure 19 via WGSN street style

Figure 18 Photo: Briana Arlene Photography

ISM AND TARIANISM The Vegan Society stated that there is 600,000 individuals following a vegan diet in the UK as of 2018, almost half (42%) of these made the change in 2018, proving this trend is hugely popular in todays society. They also stated that the vegan trend has quadrupled in the 5 years between 2012 and 2017, according to Google search and now gets almost 3 times more interest than a regular vegetarian diet and gluten free diet. Living a vegan diet doesn’t just consist of altering your diet, most vegans also eliminate any animal produce from their lifestyle, such as fur and leather. The millennials who according to Pew Research Center are defined as ages 20 to 35 make up 53% of the UK Vegans, statistics from Vegan Bits. This shows that the millennial generation are a driving factor behind this lifestyle movement and in hand this will have an effect on the animal fur industry.

Avid designer and vegetarian, Stella McCartney has stated that “it’s about time the fashion industry has woken up to the act that fur is cruel, barbaric ad simply incredibly old-fashioned and unfashionable”. I think her views towards the fur industry has influenced retailers and other fashion houses to follow a similar, slightly toned down attitude. She has stated that she is proud of her attribution towards the shift “the entire industry working together for the betterment of the planet and the better of animal welfare”. (Bridget Foley, 2018) Not only has the luxury brand never used fur but unlike its competitors, they heavily promote the fact they don’t use fur., which is a huge touch point of the brand. They promote a cruelty-free and ethical philosophy – which is stated on their website. (Stella McCartney, 2018) As the veganism movement grows so will the demand for animal friendly fashion.

This means the demand for faux fur will increase. However with animal welfare activism increasing as more information is released over the current effects of faux fur on the environment, technology will be forced to improve in order to create a faux fur that uses less plastic or less pollutants in production and when they are disposed of.

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Figure 20 ‘Free from fur’ shoot Photographer: Courtney Glover

Free from fur

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Gucci is allegedly committed in the research and development of new materials that will offer a more sustainable alternative according to the Financial Times. “There is a real possibility that an environmentally faux fur will be developed and commercialised in the near future” stated

by Renee Cuoco, manager of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the London College of Fashion, “potentially through cellulose fibre innovation of bio fabrication. There are brands and materials specialists really investigating these options.” (Charlie Porter, 2018) This shows that clearly efforts are being made in order to create a sustainable and moral future for the fur industry. In addition to this, due to the development of these fabrics only beginning now they are likely to come at a higher cost which means this could be the indicator for a luxury faux fur.

Beyond faux fur, according to an article written by the Business of Fashion ‘Fashion’s Fur-Free Future’, the advancements of technology will soon allow real fur to be grown in labs without any animal intervention or environmental impact, this would be a monumental movement within the fur industry and is exactly what consumers are demanding. This is already happening in other industries such as the leather and meat where by for example, Tyson Foods, the largest meat packer in the US, are investing in lab grown meat which is referred to as ‘clean meat’. This shows that the technology is already out there, the fur industry just need to invest in these advances and adapt them. (PJ Smith, 2018)

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Figure 21 Super Luxury Fur

The future of the fur industry

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Conclusion The fur industry is an industry in decline both faux and real.

If changes in production aren’t changed soon and the demands of consumers aren’t met, for example, the need for biodegradable and sustainable fur is a huge demand that still hasn’t been met on a global scale, then the fur industry simply won’t exist. Consumers in today’s society are no longer trying to keep up with fashion trends if they are unsustainable and unethical, which in some cases fur is both.

It is clear that the status of real fur is no longer as highly regarded as it was in previous centuries with large amounts of consumers refusing to wear the material.

The outcome of the fur vs faux fur debate is going to decide the future of the fur industry. It raises many difficult and intriguing questions. Customer values are prominent to retailers and fashion houses now more than ever, brands are now forced to think about how the clothes are produced and how their consumers will perceive their clothes in terms of sustainability and ethics. As the global warming debate heats up brands that previously were not considered in this debate may soon be at the forefront and with this information and potential customers finding this out it may change the landscape of the faux fur industry as we know it today.

Its hard to predict when, but we can be certain that there are changes that will happen within the fur industry, and these changes will be driven by the demands and values of the younger, ethical and sustainability-minded consumer. “As more cities and countries pass legislation banning fur sales and production and more companies go fur-free, alternatives will continue to improve and become more environmentally friendly. Innovation and bio fabrication – using cells to grow fur in labs – will make the fur trade obsolete”, said PJ Smith to Nylon Magazine. (Jenna Igneri, 2018)

Figure 22 ‘Free from fur’ shoot Photographer: Courtney Glover

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References Alden Wicker, (2018, April 17) Faux Fur: Good For Ethics, Bad For The Planet?

Retrieved from: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/faux-fur-environmental-impact Boucher, Francois (n.d.). 20,000 years of fashion. The history of costume and personal adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc. Bridget Foley, (2018, April 26) ‘The Fur Debate’ Retrieved from: https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/the-fur-debate-1202660445/ Canada Goose. A word about fur & down. (2018) Retrieved from: https://www.canadagoose.com/ca/en/fur-and-down-policy/fur-and-down-policy.html Charlie Porter, (2018, March 9) Faux v fur – fashion’s hairiest debate.

Retrieved from: https://www.ft.com/content/ebf1a9c6-f096-11e7-bb7d-c3edfe974e9f Damian Carrington, (2017, September 6) Plastic fibres found in tap water around the world, study reveals.

Retrieved from: https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2017/sep/06/plastic-fibres-found-tapwater-around-world-study-reveals Fur Free Alliance (2018) Fur Bans Retrieved from: https://www.furfreealliance.com/fur-bans/ Harriet Brown, (2018, April 10) Real vs fake: the next battleground in the fur debate.

Retrieved from: https://www.drapersonline.com/product-and-trade-shows/textiles/real-vs-fake-thenext-battleground-in-the-fur-debate/7029765.article Hilary George-Parkin (2018, April 26) The Fur Sustainability Debate: Is real or faux better for the planet?

Retrieved from: https://fashionista.com/2018/04/real-faux-fur-sutainability-ethics-debate

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Jenna Igneri (2018, March 29) What Is The Future Of Fur In Fashion?

Retrieved from: https://nylon.com/articles/the-future-of-fur-in-fashion Marijn Bijleveld, Marisa Korteland, Maartje Sevenster (2011, January) The environmental impact of mink fur production, Delft, CE Delft Osman Ahmed, (2017, October 26). ‘Will Millenials Boost the Fur Trade?’

Retrieved from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/will-millennials-boost-the-fur-trade PJ Smith, (2018, August 11) Op-Ed – Fashion’s Fur-Free Future Retrieved from: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/opinion/op-ed-fashions-fur-free-future Richard Fry (2018, March 1) Millennials projected to overtake Baby Boomers as America’s largest generation Retrieved from: http://www.pewresearch.org/fact-tank/2018/03/01/millennials-overtake-baby-boomers/ Sarah Hajibagheri (2018, July 22) ‘Complacent’ retailers failing over fur, say MPs Retrieved from: https://news.sky.com/story/complacent-retailers-failing-over-fur-say-mps-11444897 Stella McCartney (2018) Fur-Free-Fur Retrieved from: https://www.stellamccartney.com/experience/en/sustainability/materials-and-innovation/furfree-fur/ Stone, Elaine (2008). The dynamics of fashion. Fashion Institute of Technology. Third Edition.

New York: Fairchild Book, Inc. Tortora, Phyllis G & Eubank, Keith (2010). Survey of historic costume. A history of Western dress. Fifth Edition. New York: Fairchild Books.

Vegan Bits (2018) Vegan Demograhics Retrieved from: https://news.sky.com/story/complacent-retailers-failing-over-fur-say-mps-11444897 Vegan Society (2018) Statistics Retrieved from: https://www.vegansociety.com/news/media/statistics Yvette Mahe PhD, (2011, December 4) ‘History of Fur in Fashion: Introduction’ Retrieved from: http://www.fashionintime.org/history-fur-fashion-introduction/

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