COURTNEYDAVENPORTGLOVER
Fi gur e1( f r ontpage) :Vet ement sI ns t agr am
Fi gur e1( f r ontpage) :Vet ement sI ns t agr am
execut i ves ummary 1. 1-i nt r oduct i ont opartone 1. 2-i nt r ot oVet ement s 1. 3-i nt r ot oLevi s
CONTENTS
2. 0-i nt r oduct i ont opartt wo 2. 1-vet ement s20x20 2. 2-l evi s20x20 3. 0-i nt r oduct i ont opartt hr ee 3. 1-br andnarr at i ve 3. 2-col l abcons umerpr of i l e 3. 3-l ogodevel opment 3. 4-pr oductdevel opment 3. 5-cr oqui s 3. 6-s wi ngt ags 3. 7-pac kagi ng 3. 8-pr omot i on 4. 0-concl us i on 5. 0-r ef er ences 5. 1-i mager ef er ences
Fi gur e2:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
BOOK CONCEPT
Thi sbr andbookwi l ls how adevel opmentofext r emel ydet ai l edr es ear c hcompl et edovert hecour s e t wot ermsf r om t wohi ghl ycont r as t i ngbr ands ;Vet ement sandLevi ’ s .Ihaveconduct edal loft he Vet ement sr es ear c handmypart nerDemiJonesr es ear c hedLevi ’ s .Themodul eai medt oexpl or e cont empor aryf as hi onbr andsandt hes t r at egi esus edt ocr eat eauni queper s onal i t y,gener at eappeal anddevel opa‘ des i r abi l i t yf act or ’f orpot ent i alcons umer s .Thebr i efwass pl i ti nt ot hr eeout comes ; PartOne,TwoandThr ee. hei ndependentr es ear c hi nt oal uxurybr and,Vet ement s .Partonecons i s t edofgai ni ng PartOnewast under s t andi ngbycol l at i ngpr i maryr es ear c hwhi c hi nvol vedcol l ect i ngasmuc hbac kgr ound i nf ormat i onont hebr and,mos toft hi swasdonewi t ht heus eofi nt ernetr es our ces .I nt ernet r es our ceswer evi t alduet ot hebr andbei ngs oyoung,t her ef or emeani ngnobooksorj ournal shave beenpr oduced.Thi swasc hal l engi ngasmanywebs i t eshaveconf l i ct i ngopi ni onsont hebr and t her ef or ei twas n’ teas yt odi s t i ngui s hwhatwasf actandf i ct i on.Af t ert hi sIhadagood under s t andi ngofhow t hebr andwasf ormedandwher et heycurr ent l ys i ti nt hef as hi oni ndus t ry. nvol vedf urt herdevel opmentoft hel uxurybr andf ormewhi l s tDemil ookedi nt ot hehi gh PartTwoi s t r eetbr andLevi ’ s .Ihadt oi nves t i gat et hebr andus i ngt he20x20met hodt oi nves t i gat et angi bl e andi nt angi bl eout comes .Thi swaspr es ent edbot hvi s ual l yandcont ext ual l y.I naddi t i ont ot hi sIhad t ot hor oughl yr es ear c ht hebr andi dent i t y,mar ketpos i t i on,cons umerpr of i l e,mar ket i ngmi xand pr i ce,pl ace,pr oductandpr omot i onofVet ement s .Thi sal l owedmet odevel opas t r ongunder s t andi ng oft hebr andsphi l os ophyr at hert hanj us tt hecl ot hest heypr oduce.I tal s oenabl edmet of orm my ownopi ni onsont hebr andwhi c hwer et henbac kedupbyf act sandf i gur eswi t hi nt her eport . Di s pl ayi ngt he20x20vi s ual l ywast hemos tenj oyabl epartf ormeasIwasabl et oport r ayt he20 wor dst hatIas s oci at ewi t hVet ement sphys i cal l y.The20x20met hodgavemeamuc hgr eat er under s t andi ngoft hebr andandt her eas oni ngbehi ndal lt hei rdeci s i onsandwhyt heymaket he c hoi cest heydo.Havi ngs uc hani nt er es t i ngbr andmeantt hewor dsIhadvar i eds omuc h,f r om cont r ar i ant oandr ogynous . PartThr eewaswher ewewer et as kedt ocr eat eacol l abor at i onbet weent het wobr ands ,Vet ement sX Levi ’ s .Us i ngmydept hofknowl edgef orVet ement s ,Inow f ul l yunder s t oodt hebr andandt he phi l os ophybehi ndi t ,combi ni ngt hi swi t hDemi ’ sr es ear c hmeantwecoul dbegi npl anni nga col l abor at i onbet weent het wobr ands .Ours t art i ngpoi ntwascombi ni ngour20x20f i ndi ngsand i dent i f yi ngs i mi l ar i t i es ,t hes ebei ngr aw,s us t ai nabi l i t yandgl obal .Thi swasacl ears t art i ngpoi nt wher ebywecoul ds t artr es ear c hi ngonWGSNt ol ookatcol our s ,des i gnsandt r endsf ort heupcomi ng Fal l19/ 20s eas on.
PARTONE
Fi gur e3:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
1 . 0
PartOneoft hi sbookwi l li dent i f yt hebac kgr oundi nf ormat i onr es ear c hedbymys el fandmypart ner i nwhi c hweexpl or et hef ol l owi ngass peci f i edi nt hebr i ef :br ands t andi ng,cons umerpr of i l e, compet i t i on,mar ketl evel ,br andi ndi cat or sandt hecurr entunder s t andi ngoft hebr and.Al t oget her , t hi swi l lpr ovi deas ol i dunder s t andi ngofbot hbr andsandt hei rj ourneyst ohow t heys t andi nt he curr entmar ket .
Vet ement si saPar i s i anl abelf oundedi n2014byDemnaGvas al i aandhi sbr ot her Gur am al ongs i deatl eas tf i veot heri ndi vi dual swhoGvas al i ameti nhi spr evi ousj obs atMai s onMart i nMar gi el aandLoui sVui t t onorpr evi ouscl as smat esatt heAcademy ofFi neArt si nAnt wer p.However ,t heot hermember swi t hi nt het eam r emai n anonymouswhi c hmeansDemnaandhi sbr ot heractast hef acesoft hebr and.They cal l edt hebr andVet ement s ,whi c hi sFr enc hf orcl ot hes ,becaus et heywant ed cus t omer st ol ookbeyondt hebr andi ngt hati sappar enti nt hef as hi oni ndus t ry( New Yor kTi mes2015) .Vet ement si st hel at es tf as hi onbuzzwor dandar eatt hef or ef r ontof f as hi on.Theyar eacompl et el ynew ent r anti nt ot hel uxuryf as hi oni ndus t ryand al r eadyhaveaverys t r ongf ol l owi nganddemand.
1 . 1
VETEMENTS
“ I t ’ sanunl i kel yt al e,r eal l y.Agr oupofmos t l yanonymousyoungdes i gner s ,f ormer l yof maj orf as hi onhous es ,deci det ol aunc ht hei rownl abelal ongs i det hes t or i edmai s onsof Par i s ,s t aget hei rbr eakoutPar i sFas hi onWeekpr es ent at i oni nagr i t t yunder gr ound s excl ub,andmanaget os cor eagr eatdealofcr i t i calaccl ai mi nt hepr oces s . ”( TheLas t Magazi ne2015)
DemnaGvas al i ai saGeor gi anf as hi ondes i gner .Hegr ew upi nt heSovi ett i meswher e heandhi sf r i endsal lwor et hes amecl ot hi ng( Amed2016) .Theuni f i eds oci et yhewas br oughtupi npus hedhi mt os eeexci t ementi nmos tt hi ngs .I twaswhenhehadt o movet oGermanyduet ot heci vi lwari nGeor gi at hathemovedt oAnt wer pand ent er edt heRoyalAcademyofFi neArt sast hi swast heonl ys c hoolhecoul daf f or d.I n anI nt er vi ew wi t hTheBus i nes sofFas hi on,hes t at edt hathel earnthow t odi s coverhi s ownaes t het i candt hathewaspus hedt obecr eat i ve–nott ec hni cal .Demnat henwent ont ol eaddes i gnt eamsatMai s onMart i nMar gi el aandLoui sVui t t on( New Yor kTi mes 2015) .However ,DemnaGvas al i a’ ss t at usi nt hef as hi oni ndus t rywascement edwhen i twasannouncedi nOct ober2015t hathewoul dbet aki ngoverasart i s t i cdi r ect orof Bal enci aga.
Fi gur e4:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
Few des i gner shavemadeani mpactonf as hi onf as t ert hanDemnaGvas al i a.Fi ve year sago,nobodyknew hi snameorhi swher eabout s .Now,t heCounci lofFas hi on Des i gner sofAmer i cahavepr es ent edhi m wi t hi t sI nt ernat i onalAwar df orhi s i nf l uent i alwor katBal enci aga.Vet ement swasnomi nat edandwont heawar df or I nt ernat i onalUr banLuxuryBr andatt heBr i t i s hFas hi onAwar ds2016( Conl on 2016) .Thebr andwasupagai ns tAdi das ,Gos haRubc hi ns ki y,Of fWhi t eandPal ace Skat eboar ds .Thi swashugef ort hebr and,runni ngf oranawar dj us tt woyear saf t er l aunc hi ngi si mpr es s i veenoughasi ti s !
Fi gur e5:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
Vet ement swaspi c kedt os el li n27s t or esaf t eri t sf i r s ts eas on( Mar s hal l2016)and hass i ncel andedovert wohundr edss t oc ki s t si nt hr eeyear s( I ndvi c k2016) .Thi s i ncl udesphys i call ocat i onss uc hasDoverSt r eetMar ketandBarneysNY,however , mos toft hes t oc ki ss ol donl i ne.Vet ement sl i mi t st henumberofi t emsavai l abl et o out l et s ,f ori ns t anceI t al i ans t or esar enotal l owedt obuymor et hanf ourpi ecesof j er s eyi nones t yl easVet ement sbel i evesi fs omet hi nggoesons al ei thasbeen over pr oduced( Amed2016) .Vet ement sal mos tal wayss el l s outonpr eor der ,bef or e f abr i cshaveevenbeenpi c ked! Vet ement scat er sf ort eenager sandadul t s ,mos toft hei rcol l ect i onshavea gender l es sappr oac hwhi c ht her ef or eappeal st obot hmal eandf emal eandt r ansand nonbi narypeopl e,al t houghi ni t i al l yVet ement swer edes i gni ngt ocat erf orwomen whoof t enbuyandwearvi nt agecl ot hi ng.Thekeyc har act er i s t i csofaVet ement s cons umerar es omeonewhowant st omakeas t at ement ,t heywantt ogoagai ns tt he normsoff as hi on,t hey’ r egendervagueanddes i r ehi ghqual i t yf as tf as hi on.They ar ei ndi al oguewi t ht hei rs urr oundi ngsandwi t hwhati sgoi ngoni nt hewor l d. “ Wi t hourdes i gnswewantt ogi vet hewear eranat t i t udet hatmat c hesour aes t het i c, ”hecont i nues .“ Whi l ecomi ngupwi t hdes i gns ,wet endt obei ns pi r edby womenwhohaveas t r ongs ens eofi ndi vi dual i t yandar ealopi ni onaboutwhat t hey’ r ewear i ng.Vet ement si snotboundt oanyage,butt ot heaut onomyofi t s wear er ” .( DemnaGvas al i a)
Thei rcons umer sar et het ypet hatcanandar ehappyt os pend£500£1000onan i t em ofcl ot hi ngbecaus ei t ’ l lmaket hem f eell i ket heyhaveahi ghers t at usi nt he f as hi onwor l dandons oci almedi a.Someoft hes econs umer sar eknownast he‘ r i c h ki dsofI ns t agr am’ . Cel ebr i t i ess uc hasSel enaGomez,Kendal lJennerandKanyeWes tr epr es entt he t ar getaudi encef orVet ement sast heyal lhaveanedgys t yl eandr aw l ook.Theyar e s omeoft hebi gges ts t yl ei consi nt ermsofs t r eet wearandduet ot hei rhuge f ol l owi ngar ei nf l uenci ngt he‘ r i c hki dsofI ns t agr am’t obuyi nt ot hel uxurybr ands . ketl evel .Si t t i ngs econdi nt hemar ketl evel Thebr ands i t swi t hi nt hel uxurymar s egment at i onpyr ami doft hef as hi onmar ket ,Luxuryi snoteas yt odef i ne.The hi ghqual i t yandcr eat i ver eadyt oweari si dent i f i edasal uxurys ymbol .Andi ti s , ofcour s e,f r om abus i nes sandbr andpl acementpoi ntofvi ew,addr es s edt oahi gh cons umerr ange. Vet ement shavemadei t snamet hr oughi t suncut ,r aw des i gnscent er edar oundan ur banmovementr evi vi ngt hewor l dofs t r eet wear .Thepr oport i onsar emos t l y over s i zed,wi t hqui r kyt wi s t sandunconvent i onalmat er i al s .Cr i t i csr ef ert o‘ t he aes t het i csofugl i nes s ’i nVet ement scol l ect i ons .Demnahi ms el fpr ocl ai ms“ i t sugl y, andt hat ’ swhywel i kei t ”( Fury2016) .Thei deabehi ndt hel abeli ss i mpl e:t ake cl ot hi ngnoonewoul deverexpectt obedes i r abl e( s oc kboot s ,compl et ewi t hs port y br andi ng) ,andt urni ti nt oexcl us i ve,hi ghf as hi ongoodst hatwi l lgovi r alal mos t i mmedi at el y.Thendel i ber at el ynotmakeenoughs t oc kt omeetdemands ,t ot hen s el louti ns t ant l y.TheVet ement set host oneverover pr oduceandnevergoons al e s eemst obewor ki ng. Vet ement ss hoot sandrunwaysar eal li nuni quear eas ,r epr es ent i ngt hebr ands aes t het i c.Thei rs hoot sar eal li nder el i ctl ocat i ons ,t hes t onybac kgr oundsand rundownenvi r onment scr eat esj uxt apos i t i onwi t ht hebr andscl ot hi ngwhi c hof t en l ooksl i kei t sunf i ni s hedandputt oget herwr ongl y.Thei rrunways Vet ement scol l abor at eswi t hmanycompani es ,i ncl udi ngChampi on,Car hart t , ReebokandJui cyCout ur e.Oneofi t smos tf amousandunl i kel i es ti t emsi st he wel l s pokenaboutDHLt s hi rt ,des pi t ecos t i ng£185t het s hi rts ol douti nmos t r et ai l er swi t hi naweek( Coc hr ane2016) .Thi scol l abor at i ont ookVet ement sahuge amountofper s uas i onand20t s hi rt sf ort hem t oal l ow t hecopyr i ghtt ot hel ogo ( Fi nni gan2016) .
1 . 2 LEVI ’ S
LeviSt r auuswasaGermanborni n1829anddi edi n1902.HewasanAmer i can bus i nes s manwhof oundedt hef i r s tcompanyt omanuf act ur ebl uej eans .Hehadt hr ee ol derbr ot her sandt hr eeol ders i s t er sandf ourc hi l dr enofhi sown;Jacob,Jonas ,Loui s andMary.Twoyear saf t erhi sf at herdi edi n1846,Leviandhi ss i s t er semi gr at edt o New Yor kt omeett hei rt wool derbr ot her s .Hi sbr ot her sownedaNew Yor kbas ed whol es al edrygoodsbus i nes scal l ed‘ ’ J. St r aus sBr ot her& Co’ ’ .Levibeganhi sbus i nes s i n1853,i nSanFr anci s co.Hees t abl i s hedhi sownwhol es al egoodsbus i nes sunderhi s ownname,event ual l yLevinamedt hebus i nes s‘ ’ LeviSt r aus s& Co’ ’ . LeviSt r aus s& Coi soneoft hewor l d’ sl ar ges tbr andnameappar elcompani esand gl oball eaderofj eanswear .Thebr anddes i gnsandmar ket sj eansandcaus alwearf or menandwomen.Levi ’ spr oduct sar es ol di nmor et han110count i eswor l dwi de t hr oughLevi ’ ss t or es ,depart ments t or esandonl i ne.Thebr andhasagl obalf oot pr i nt of2, 800r et ai ls t or es .Si ncet hei ri nvent i oni n1873,Levi ’ sj eanshavebecomet hemos t r ecogni s abl ecl ot hi ngi nt hewor l d.LeviSt r aus s& Cohavebeeni nnovat i ngs i ncet he veryf i r s tpai rofj eansi n1873.Thr oughoutt hei rl onghi s t ory,t hey’ vei ns pi r edt o c hangewi t hi nt hemar ket pl ace,t hewor kpl aceandt hewor l d.LeviSt r aus si st he i nvent oroft hepopul arAmer i cangarment ,deni m. Levi ’ ss ayt hatt hecul t ur eofLeviSt r auus& Coi sf uel l edbys t r ongval ues ,cr eat i vi t y andhar dwor k.Theys ayt hatus i ngi nnovat i ve,s us t ai nabl eandpr ogr es s i vepr act i ces i s n’ tj us thow t heymaket hei rj eansandot herpr oduct s ,i t ’ sapr i nci pl et heyval uei nal l oft hei rwor k.
Fi gur e6:Hi ghSnobi et y
Fi gur e7:Hi ghSnobi et y ToLevi ’ s ,i nnovat i oni st hecor eofwhatt heydo.Fr om i nvent i ngt hewor l d’ sf i r s t pai rofbl uej eans ,t opr oduci ngcut t i ngedgedes i gnt ec hni ques ,t odevel opi ngnew waysofwor ki ng.Thebr ands ayst heyl i ket oencour aget hei rt al ent edempl oyees andanyonewhowear sapai roft hei rj eans ,t odr eam bi g,domor eandgr ow. Levi ’ shaveas t r ongcar ef ordoi ngt her i ghtt hi ng,t her ef or et hebr andhasdeci ded t obui l ds us t ai nabi l i t yi nt oeveryt hi ngt heydo.Becaus eoft hi st heyhavej oi nedt he Bet t erCot t onI nnovat i vewhi c hi scommi t t edt ogr owi ngcot t oni nawayt hati s heal t hi erf ort heenvi r onment .Anot herwayt ohel pt oenvi r onment ,t hebr andhave pr oducedt heWat er <Les sj eans ,maki ngj eanswi t has i gni f i cantl es samountof wat er .Thi si sal ldonei nf avourt oencour ageaheal t hywor l dandabet t erf ut ur e. Levi ’ ss i t swi t hi nt hel uxuryf as hi onmar ket ,bei ngoneoft hemos tcel ebr at ednames i nt hehi s t oryofappar el .Thebr andi sr ecogni s edf orqual i t y,or i gi nal i t yand i nt egr i t y.Thebr andepi t omi zescl as s i cAmer i cans t yl eandef f ort l es scool . Cons i der i ngt hei rpr i cer angecanbeexpens i ve;wi t hj eansvaryi ngf r om £65. 00t o £220. 000.Wi t hLevi ’ sj eansbei ngoneoft hemos twel l knownf as hi oni t ems wor l dwi de,s el l i ngi coni c,t r adi t i onal‘ RedTab’j eans ,t heywoul dn’ tbes eenas anyt hi ngot hert hanl uxury. Levi ’ st ar get s16t o50yearol ds ,as t udys howst hat76% of16t o25yearol dsand 26t o35yearol dsownmor et hanonepai rofj eans .( Sour ce7)Thebr and concent r at esmai nl yonhi gh–i ncomei ndi vi dual st hatcanaf f or dt opur c has et he pr oduct s .Al t hough,t hecompanydoes n’ ti gnor et hecons umer st hathaveami ddl e– i ncome,t her ef or eLevi ’ spr oduct scanr angef r om £30-£600. l y,t hecompanys egment edt hei rcons umer sbyt hei rageandhasaveryl ar ge Recent cus t omerr ange,t heager anget hatLevi ’ sof f er si ncl udesmen,women,j uni or sand babi es .Bas edont hemar kets egment at i on,Levi ’ shasbeenabl et oi dent i f yi t s mar ket–s egmentopport uni t i es ,t hebr andhass pl i tt hei ri dealcons umer si nt ot wo s ect i ons .Onebei ng‘ uppercl as s ’ ,whi c hi speopl et hatdon’ thaveani s s uewi t hpr i ce, t heypayat t ent i ont ot hequal i t yoft hebr andanddes i gn.And‘ uppermi ddl ecl as s ’ , whi c hi speopl et hathaveagoodi ncome,butt hebr andf i ndsi tdi f f i cul tt os at i s f y t hem. Fi gur e8:Hi ghSnobi et y
Wr i t t enbyDemiJones
PARTTWO
Fi gur e9:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
2 . 0
Thi ss ect i onoft hebookwi l lhi ghl i ghtt he20x20met hodofi nves t i gat i ngt het wobr ands .Thi s i nvol vedt aki ngt her es ear c hwehadpr evi ous l yconduct edi nt hef i r s tcomponentt ot hemodul e,and 20wor dst hatweper s onal l ywoul das s oci at ewi t hourbr and.Idi dt he20x20f orVet ement swhi l s t Demimypart nerdi dLevi â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s .Ihavec hos enanumberofmyf avour i t escombi nedwi t ht hemos t r el evantal ongs i deDemi â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s ,t ocr eat eagoods ampl eofwhatt he20x20met hodai mst oac hi eve.
VETEMENTS
Fi gur e10:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
2 . 1
M I L L E N I A L R A W GOTHIC MATERI AL I ST I C
SYMBOL I C
U R B A N
ANDROGYNOUS E X C L U S I V E N I C H E SUSTAINABILITY E DGY R E B E L L I O U S S T R E E T DHL P O L I T I C A L CONT R O V E R S I A L G L O B A L YOUTH CULTURE AV ANT GARDE G R U N G Y
Asayoungbr and,haveVet ement ses t abl i s heda cus t omerpr of i l e? ement sent er edt hef as hi oni ndus t ryi n2014, Vet meani ngi thasonl ybeenar oundf orunder4 year s .Thi smeansi t â&#x20AC;&#x2122; sverydi f f i cul tt oes t abl i s ha cus t omerpr of i l ef orVet ement s ,es peci al l yi ns uc h acompet i t i veni c he.Ihavef oundi tt obemos t popul aramongs tt heMi l l enni al s ,whoar e cl as s i f i edasaged1834i n2015.Ibel i evet hi st o becorr ectasVet ement sai mst os el lt oconf i dent i ndi vi dual swhowantt omakeas t at ementand s endames s age.Wi t ht hehi ghpr i cepoi ntof Vet ement scl ot hi ng,i ti sobvi oust hatcons umer s wi l lhaveal ar geamountofdi s pos abl ei ncomei n or dert opur c has eVet ement sgarment s .I n addi t i on,It hi nkt heyar el i kel yt ol i vei naci t y andhavenoc hi l dr en,ast hi swoul dal l ow t hem t o dowhatt heywantwi t ht hei rmoneyand ef f ect i vel ygi vet hem t heopt i ont owearwhatt hey l i ke.Li vi ngi naci t ygi vest hecons umermor e opt i onsast ohow t heywantt ol i vet hei rl i f e maki ngt hem mor el i kel yt omakei mpul s e deci s i ons .
MI LLENI AL +
Des pi t eVet ement sbei ngawomens wearbr and, whyi si ts opopul aramongs tmen? om t heverybegi nni ngVet ement swascr eat ed Fr f orwomenands t i l li s ,howeverot hert hant hei r f i r s tcol l ect i onmenar es eenont hecat wal ks model l i ngt hecol l ect i onsdes pi t ecat er i ngf or womenor i gi nal l y.Thebr andhasamal eaes t het i c, ass t at edbyDemnahi ms el fi nani nt er vi ew wi t h BoF,â&#x20AC;&#x153; duet oouraes t het i ct hathasavery mas cul i neor i gi n,wehaveal otofmal ecus t omer s t hatbuyourcl ot hes ,whi c har enotr eal l ymade f ormal ecus t omer s â&#x20AC;? .Thi scl ear l ymeanst hatmen ar eenj oyi ngt hel ookoft hecl ot hi nges peci al l y whent heys eef as hi oni conss uc hasKanyeWes t wear i ngVet ement sont hes t r eet s .
ANDROGYNOUS
Whatar eVet ement sdoi ngt oens ur et heyar eas us t ai nabl e br and? ement sar ecurr ent l ycal l i ngoutt hef as hi oni ndus t ryon Vet over pr oduct i on.I nanat t emptt or ai s eawar enes sovert hi s i s s uet heyhavepai r edupwi t hHarr odsandhavef our wi ndows .Thes ef ourwi ndowswi l lbeus edt odi s pl aydonat ed cl ot heswhi c hwi l lf orm a‘ mount ai n’ofcl ot hi ng.The mount edcl ot hesr epr es entmas spr oduct i onand cons equent l yi t sunneces s arys t r ai nonr es our ces .It hi nk t hatt hi sr epr es ent st her eas onbehi ndVet ement s excl us i vi t yandt her eas ont heymaket hei rcol l ect i onss o l i mi t ed.I naddi t i on,It hi nkt hi si sal s owhyt heyar es o agai ns tt hei ri t emsgoi ngons al ebecaus et hi smeanst hei r pr oduct shavebeenover pr oduced.I nt hei rmos tr ecent col l ect i on( AW18) ,manyoft hemodel sar es eenwear i ng mul t i pl el ayer sofcl ot hi ngwhi c hs ymbol i s escus t omer ’ s cons umpt i onwi t hi nt hef as hi oni ndus t ry.Thi scoul dbe over as us t ai nabl eandecof r i endl yr oadf orVet ement sandcoul d r es ul ti nas ol i dbr andas s oci at i onandef f ect i vel yaUSPf or t hebr and.
SUSTAI NABI LI TY Ev er yonei saf r ai d ofadmi t t i ngt hat t heymakemor e c l ot hest hant hey c ans el l .
How doesVet ement sens ur ei t spr oduct sar es ol dgl obal l y? ement st ar get scons umer sgl obal l ywhi c hmeansi ti s Vet vi t alt heycanpr ovi depr oduct st ocus t omer sal lovert he wor l d,bot honl i neandi ns t or e.I nor dert odos o,Vet ement s haveal l ocat eds t oc ki s t si nmanycount r i esacr os st hegl obe s uc has ,Harr odsandDoverSt r eetMar keti nLondon,whi c h ar eal s oonl i nes t oc ki s t sf ort hebr and.TheAl c hemi s t , Mi ami ;LaGar conne,New Yor kandMonaMoor e,Cal i f orni a ar eal lUSs t or eswhi c hs t oc kVet ement saswel laspr ovi di ng t heonl i neopt i onaswel l .I nAs i a,t hebr andi ss t oc kedi n Cl ub21,Thai l and;Boont hes hop,Seoulandt her ewasa popups t or ei nHongKongi nNovember2017.Ther ear e s ever als t or esl ocat edi nEur opes uc hasTheBr okenArm, Par i sandLui s avi ar oma,Fl or ence.I naddi t i onVet ement s al s of eat ur esi nKM20,Mos cow.
GLOBAL
Whyi sVet ement sr ej ect i ngmai ns t r eam f as hi on? ement si sugl y.I nt heeyesofmanypeopl e,t hei rcl ot hi ng Vet i s nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tpr et t yordes i r abl ei nanyway,t hei rwei r dpat t erns , cut sands t yl esar es ooutt her eandwhi ms i cal .Thei r cl ot hi ngi st heoppos i t et owhatmai ns t r eam f as hi onas ksf or , s ymmet ryandpr oport i on.Oneoft her eas onst hat Vet ement ss t andsoutf r om t hemai ns t r eam off as hi oni s becaus ei ts et soutt obeugl y.Manyf i ndt hei rpi eces r epul s i vebutf ort heVet ement scons umer st hi smakest he garment sexcl us i veandevenmor eappeal i ng.Convent i onal peopl ej us tdonotunder s t andt hi smi nds et .
RAW
Whyi sVet ement sr ej ect i ngmai ns t r eam f as hi on? ement si sugl y.I nt heeyesofmanypeopl e,t hei rcl ot hi ng Vet i s nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tpr et t yordes i r abl ei nanyway,t hei rwei r dpat t erns , cut sands t yl esar es ooutt her eandwhi ms i cal .Thei r cl ot hi ngi st heoppos i t et owhatmai ns t r eam f as hi onas ksf or , s ymmet ryandpr oport i on.Oneoft her eas onst hat Vet ement ss t andsoutf r om t hemai ns t r eam off as hi oni s becaus ei ts et soutt obeugl y.Manyf i ndt hei rpi eces r epul s i vebutf ort heVet ement scons umer st hi smakest he garment sexcl us i veandevenmor eappeal i ng.Convent i onal peopl ej us tdonotunder s t andt hi smi nds et .
CONTRARI AN
How doesVet ement scr eat eagrungyaes t het i c? â&#x20AC;&#x2DC; Grungeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;i sas t yl eoff as hi oni nf l uencedbyt hemus i cgenr e cons i s t i ngofbaggy,t ornandf adedcl ot hi ng.Vet ement s cl ot hi ngi spr edomi nant l ybaggyandover s i zedwi t hmuc hof t hei rFal l2018col l ect i onbei ngj us tt hat ,t heyus epet i t e model st hatal s omaket hei t emsl ookext r emel yover s i zed. I naddi t i on,Vet ement swer et hebr andt hats t art edt hebol d s houl derpadl ook.Ass t at edear l i erwi t hi nAndr ogynous , model sVet ement sus eappeart ocarryagrungyappear ance, wi t hf eat ur ess uc hass havenheadsorhai rl ongenought o pas st hei rs t omac h.
GRUNGE
Whatmakesgot hi cs t yl i ngkeyt oVet ement ss ucces s ? It hi nkVet ement shasal wayscarr i edagot hi cel ementt oi t s col l ect i ons ,s i ncei t si ncept i oni nFal l2014wher emanyof t hei rs t yl edout f i t swer ebl ac kf r om headt ot oe.However , t hegot hi cel ementr eal l yt ookof fi nSpr i ng2016whent hey beganut i l i s i ngt he‘ bl ac kl et t er ’s t yl ef ontbr andi ng Vet ement sont hes l eevesoft hets hi rt swhi c hwer e ot herwi s everybas i c.Thi swaswhenVet ement sf i r s ts t art ed t omaket hei r‘ br anded’cl ot hi ngwhi c hhass i ncebecome t hei rmos ts ought af t erpi eces .
GOTHI C
Fi gur e11:Levi ’ sI ns t agr am
2 . 2 LEVI ’ S
REDT AB
T R A D I T I O N A L
T EXT URES
GLOBAL
V I N T A G E
D E N I M SUSTAINABLE CL ASSI C
C O T T O N T WI L L
ETHICAL
WE A V E
STAPLE
H A R D WE A R I N G U R A B I L I T Y C A S U A L RAW D B L U E 5 0 1 J E A N S STREET
I CONI C
Whatar et hey? The501j eanshaves t ayedpopul art hr oughoutgener at i ons ofpr oduct i onandar eofagoodqual i t y.The501j eansar e car ef ul l ypr oducedandcr af t ed,t hej eansar ecl as s i c,yet wi t hanabi l i t yt obl endi nt odi f f er ents t yl es .
501JEANS CLASSI CAND POPULAR
Wr i t t enandvi s ual sbyDemiJones
How doIt hi nkLevi â&#x20AC;&#x2122; sj eanscanbecas ual ? It hi nkj eansar eanef f ect i vewayofcr eat i ngacas ualout f i t l ook,ast hes t at ements t yl ecancr eat eauni quet wi s tt oan out f i t .If eell i ket her ei sar angeofcol our i ngandf i t st hat meanyoucaneas i l ycus t omi s eyours t yl e,adj us t i ngt hel ook t os ui tyourt as t eandbodys hape.
CLASSI C SI NCE1873
Wr i t t enandvi s ual sbyDemiJones
DoIt hi nkLevi â&#x20AC;&#x2122; si sagl obalbr and? Levi â&#x20AC;&#x2122; si sawel l es t abl i s hedgl obalbus i nes st hatoper at ei n 110count r i es .It hi nkt hei rs ucces si ncr eat i nggl obal di s t r i but i onsoft hei rpr oduct si sl ar gel yduet ot hei rt r ac k r ecor dofr es pons i bl ebus i nes spr act i ces .Ast hebr and cont i nuet oexpandi nt ernat i onal l yandt hei rgoali st o oper at ei naccor dancewi t ht hei rval ueswher evert hey s our cet hei rmat er i al sormanuf act ur eands el lt hei rcl ot hes .
GLOBAL
STORESOVER110 COUNTRI ES
Wr i t t enandvi s ual sbyDemiJones
How i sLevi ’ ss us t ai nabl e? Levi ’ ss ay‘ ’ s us t ai nabi l i t y’ ’i ss ewni nt ot hef abr i cof everyt hi ngt heydo–f r om how t hei rcl ot hi ngi smadet ot he wor kt heydot ohel pt hepl anet .Thebr ands t r i vest o l ever aget hei ri coni cbr andt odr i vepos i t i ve,s us t ai nabl e c hangeandport f ol i obus i nes sr es ul t s .
SUSTAI NABI LI TY
Wr i t t enandvi s ual sbyDemiJones
Whati sr aw t ome? omei sr ough,unf i ni s hed,r i gi dedgesandnat ur al .Raw Raw t deni m canal s obeknownasdeni mt hathas n' tgonet hr ough any' s hr i nki ng' or' pr e-was hi ng' pr oces s esdur i ng pr oduct i on,bydoi ngt hi si tcr eat esaverys t i f f/s t ruct ur ed deni m andt hedeni mi snormal l ycol our edi ndi go.I tcanal s o beknownasunwas heddeni mt hathascames t r ai ghtof ft he cot t ont wi l l .Mos tj eansi ns t or est odayhavegonet hr ough s omes ortofpr e-was hi ngpr oces swhi c hs of t enst hedeni m.
RAW ROUGH,UNFI NI SHED & RI GI DEDGES
Wr i t t enandvi s ual sbyDemiJones
PARTTHREE
Fi gur e12:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
3 . 0
COLLABORATI ON Wedeci dedt obr i ngLevi ’ si nt oVet ement sandcr eat et wol uxuryi t emswhi c hwi l lcat erf ort he Vet ement scons umerast heedgyf eelofVet ement swi l lbeport r ayedi nt hei t emsandduet ot he excl us i vi t yoft hepi ecest her ewi l lobvi ous l ybehi ghpr i cepoi nt swhi c happealt ot heVet ement s cons umer .Ther eas onbehi ndbr i ngi ngLevi ’ si nt oVet ement si sbecaus et her ehavebeenacoupl e ofcol l abor at i onsbet weenVet ement sandLevi ’ swher ei ti sevi dentt heyhavet akenVet ement s i nt oLevi ’ s ,t heydes i gnedj eanswi t ht heVet ement sl ogos t r appedont hecr ot c har eaoft hej eans andt heywer epr i cedatal owerpr i cepoi ntt oappealt ot heLevi ’ scons umer .Sayi ngt hat ,I deci dedt oheavi l yf ocusonVet ement sdes i gnsandaddal i t t l eedgeofLevi ’ s ,s owedeci dedt o cr eat edeni mi t emsbutmaket hem edgyandunl i keanyot her ss eenbef or e,becaus eVet ement s ar et r ends et t er s .Iwantt omaket hem ugl yandunappeal i ng,ast hi si swhatVet ement sdowi t h t hemaj or i t yoft hei rcol l ect i ons .Thef actt hatt heydes i gns uc havant gar dei t emsappealt ot he Vet ement scons umerwhi c hi sanot herr eas onwhywedeci dedt ocat erf ort hei rcons umer . Myj obsi ncl udedcr eat i ngl ogo’ s ,s wi ngt agsandpac kagi ng,des i gni ngt woi t emsf ort he col l abor at i on,pr omot i onanddevel opi ngabr andnarr at i ve.
3 . 1
Thes t orybehi ndt hecol l ect i oni sent i r el ybas edonour20x20r es ear c h.We deci dedt oheavi l yf ocusont hewor dst hatbot hofusi dent i f i eddur i ngourr es ear c h. Thes ewor dsbei ng;s us t ai nabl e,r aw andgl obal .
BRAND NARRATI VE
Themai nwor dt hatIf el twast hemos ti mport antwass us t ai nabl eduet ohow muc h t het wobr andsdot or ai s eawar enes sar oundt hei s s ueofwas t emat er i aland maki ngi t emss us t ai nabl e.Thecons umerpr of i l ewehavedeci dedt ot ar geti st he Vet ement scons umerwhoar et heMi l l enni al s .TheMi l l enni al sar edemandi ng pr oduct st hatdecr eas ewas t e,wi t h73% ofMi l l enni al ss t at i ngt hatt heyar ewi l l i ng t opayf ormor epr oduct st hatcomef r om compani est hatar ecommi t t edt o envi r onment ali mpact( Landrum,2017) .Ass t at edi n‘ TheVi s i on2019:Part2– Pur pos eFul l ’r eportbyWGSN,“ Sus t ai nabi l i t yi si mper at i ve,andi t ’ snoti mpos s i bl e. I t ’ st i met onurt ur eourpur c has eswi t ht hes amecar easourbodi es .“Thes et wo f act smas s i vel yi nf l uencedmydeci s i onsf ort hi scol l abor at i on,ast hef as hi on i ndus t ryi st aki ngahuget urnandVet ement sl i ket obeaheadofeveryoneel s es o whynotcr eat eacompl et el ys us t ai nabl er ange?
Vet ement shavedoneacampai gnwi t hHarr odsandcurr ent l yhave4oft hei rwi ndowsi nwhi c h t heyhavei ns t al l edmas s i vepi l esofdonat edcl ot hi ngt or ai s eawar enes sonover pr oduct i on.Thi s i sext r emel ypowerf ulandIcani magi nei thasdr awnmanyeyes .However ,havi ngVet ement s donet hatt heyhavenotact ual l ys pokenaboutwhatt heyar egoi ngt odowi t hal loft hi scl ot hi ng. So,why notus ei tt ocr eat enew,bet t eri t ems ?Today,vi nt agef as hi oni smor epopul art hani thas everbeenandi sdr i venbyagr owi ngeyef ori ndi vi dual i t y.Sal esofhi ghendvi nt ageat t i r ear e as cendi ng.Accor di ngt oThr edUp,t hef as hi onr es al emar kethasgr own82% overt hel as tt hr ee year s .Abr andt hati sr ecycl i ngol dcl ot hesbutes peci al l ydeni mi sRedone,t heyadaptol ddeni m i ncl udi ngLevi ’ st omaket hem mor eont r endandcurr ent .Ont hei rwebs i t et heys t at e,“ RE/ DONE i samovement-amovementt or es t or ei ndi vi dual i t yt ot hel uxuryf as hi ons pace,amovementt o keepher i t agebr andsr el evant ,andamovementt ocr eat es us t ai nabl ef as hi on. ”( s hopr edone. com, 2018) .Thi si sext r emel yr el evantt owhatIwantt oac hi evewi t ht heVet ement sX Levi ’ s col l abor at i on.
Levi ’ shaveal r eadyexpr es s edt hei ri nt er es ti npart ner i ngwi t hot herbr andsi nt henameof cons er vat i on,t heys t at e“ LeviSt r aus s& Co.i spi oneer i ngpr act i cest or educet heus eof ener gy,wat er ,c hemi cal sandot hermat er i al si nt heappar eli ndus t ry.Wecan’ tdot hi sal one, butbyt aki ngi nnovat i veact i onsandpart ner i ngwi t hot her st hr oughoutt hei ndus t ry,we canhel pdr i vec hangeandr educeourover al lenvi r onment ali mpact . ”( " Pl anet-Levi St r aus s " ,2018) .Levi ’ shaveal s odecl ar edt heywantt obecomet hemos ts us t ai nabl eappar el companybyi nnovat i ngt hei rbus i nes si nvar i ousways .Anexampl eoft hi si st hei r ‘ Wa er <Les s‘j eans .Levi ’ shavehi ghl i ght edagapi nt hef as hi oni ndus t rywher ebyi tt akes W t 3, 800l i t r esofwat ert opr oduceas i ngl epai rofj eans .Theynow wor kwi t ht heBet t erCot t on I ni t i at i vet ot r ai nf armer st ogr ow cot t onus i ngl es swat er .Theyhaveal r eadys aved1bi l l i on l i t r esofwat erbys i mpl yus i ngi ni t i at i ve.Theyai mt oexpandt heWat er <Les spr oces st o i ncl udemor eLevi ’ spr oduct ss uc hast ops .By2020,t heLevi ’ sbr andai mst omake80 per centofi t spr oduct sus i ngWat er <Les st ec hni ques ,upf r om near l y25per centt oday.( Levi St r aus s& Co. ,2015) .Thecol l abor at i onwi l lus eonl yLevi ’ sdeni m,s ot her ef or eal lpr oduct s pr oducedwi l lbes us t ai nabl e.
Anot heri mport antas pectf ort hecol l abor at i oni st oens ur ei ti ss ol dgl obal l y,asVet ement sai mst o havet hei rpr oduct swornwor l dwi de.Thi si smai nl ydonet hr ought hes al eofs t oc ki s t si nmany count r i es ,Iwantt os t oc kt hi scol l abor at i oni nt hes t or est heyal r eadyhaveas t r ongr el at i ons hi pwi t h becaus et hecus t omerl oyal t yoft hes t or esi si mper at i ve.I naddi t i on,cons umer sar eawar et hat Vet ement si sal r eadys t oc kedi ncert ai ns t or eswhi c hi si mport antf orbr andawar enes s .Furt hermor e, t hecol l abor at i onwi l lbes ol dvi aSel f r i dgesonl i ne.Iwantt oopent wopopups t or es ,onei nPar i sand t heot heri nSanFr anci s co,bot hl ocat i onsbei ngt heor i gi nalhomegr oundsoft hebr ands ,It hi nkt hi s addst ot hes t oryoft hecol l abor at i onandbr ands t ory. Thef i nalwor dt hatIwant edt oconveyi nt hecol l ect i oni sr aw.Thi swor di si mport antasbot hbr ands havear aw edge,Vet ement smor et hanLevi ’ swhi c hi ss ui t abl ef ort hecol l ect i onasbr i ngi ngLevi ’ si nt o Vet ement smeanswecanmakei tasr aw asneces s ary.Thei deabehi ndt hecol l ect i oni st ot akeol d unwant edLevi ’ s ,t hatar ei ngoodcondi t i onandt wi s tt hem t or ecr eat ecool ,edgyj eansandj ac ket s , wi t heveryi t em bei ngdi f f er ent !Thepl ani st ohavet hej eansupcycl edi nawayt hatt heyl ook compl et el ydi f f er ent ,t urni ngt heor i gi nalpat t ernups i dedownandput t i ngt hepoc ket sf r om t het opof t hej eansont hebot t om andvi cever s a.I naddi t i on,t hej eanswi l lbemadeus i ngdi f f er entcol our ed pi ecesofdeni ms oi ti sobvi oust heyhavebeenr ecr eat edandt hes eamswi l lbeont heext er i oroft he i t emss oi tgi vesi tar aw f eel ,wi t hasmanyf r aysaspos s i bl e.
Wi t hVet ement sbei ngaf ai r l ynew br andandonl ybei ngar oundf orf ouryear s ,i t ’ s har dt odef i neacus t omerpr of i l et hatf i t swi t ht hebr and.Thebr andwasor i gi nal l y cat er edanddes i gnedf orwomenwhobuyandwearvi nt agecl ot hi ng.Overt hepas t f ouryear s ,Vet ement shavegr ownandnow appeal st oal lages ,andwi t ht hei r col l ect i onshavi ngagender l es sappr oac ht heyt her ef or eappealt omal e,f emal e,t r ans andnon–bi narycons umer s .TheMi l l enni al s ,cl as s i f i edbet weent heagesof18–24i n 2015,ar eabi gcons umergr oupf ort hebr and.Theyar ei nt ovi nt agecl ot hi ngand of t enbuyi nt or ecycl edcl ot hi ng,i nor dert ocont r i but et opr ot ect i ngt heenvi r onment . Vet ement sai mst os el lt hei rl i mi t ededi t i oncl ot hi ngt oconf i denti ndi vi dual st hat haveauni ques t yl ewi t hi nt hef as hi onpl ace.Thes ei ndi vi dual swantcl ot hi ngt hatwi l l makeas t at ementandmaket hem s t andouti nt hecr owd.Wi t ht hebr ands i t t i ngi n t hel uxurys egmentoft hef as hi oni ndus t ry,t heyobvi ous l yhaveahi ghpr i cepoi nt . Thi smeanst hatt hei rcons umer sar el i kel yt ohaveal ar geamountofdi s pos abl e i ncome,whi c hal l owst hem t obeabl et obuyVet ement scl ot hi ng.I naddi t i on,ani deal cons umeri sl i kel yt ol i vei naci t y,wi t hnoc hi l dr enwhi c hwoul dal l ow t hem t os pend t hei rmoneyhow t heywoul dl i ke.
3 . 2
CUSTOMER PROFI LE
Thekeyc har act er i s t i csofaVet ement scons umeri ss omeonewhowant st ogoagai ns t t henormsoff as hi on,t hey’ r egendervagueanddes i r ehi ghqual i t yf as tf as hi on.They ar ehappyt os pend£500-£1000onani t em ofcl ot hi ngbecaus ei twi l lmaket hem f eell i ket heyhaveahi ghers t at usi nt hef as hi oni ndus t ryandamongs tt hei rpeer s . AsVet ement si scol l abor at i ngwi t hLevi ’ st hepr oduct sneedt oappealt obot h cons umer s .Levi ’ scat er sf ormenandwomen,es peci al l ywomen,asLevi ’ shavecome upwi t hacol l ect i onai meds peci f i cal l yatt hem;Levi ’ sCur veI D.Levi ’ st ar geti s16– 50yearol ds ,t eenager sandyoungadul t sbei ngt hei rmos tl oyalcus t omer s .Levi ’ s s pl i t st hei ri dealcons umeri nt ot wos ect i ons ,onebei ng‘ uppercl as s ’ ,whi c hi speopl e t hatdon’ thaveani s s uewi t hpr i ce,t heypayat t ent i ont ot hequal i t yoft hebr andand des i gn.Thes econds ect i onbei ng‘ uppermi ddl ecl as s ’ ,whi c hi speopl et hathavea goodi ncome,butt hebr andf i ndsi tdi f f i cul tt os at i s f yt hem.
Forbot hbr ands ,s us t ai nabi l i t yi sakeyc har act er i s t i c.ForVet ement ses peci al l ys eei ngast heycurr ent l y cal l i ngoutt hef as hi oni ndus t ryonover pr oduct i on.Levi ’ st akes us t ai nabi l i t yverys er i ous l yaswel l ,t he br ands ays‘ ’ Sus t ai nabi l i t yi ss ewni nt ot hef abr i cofeveryt hi ngwedo–f r om how ourcl ot hi ngi smadet o t hewor kwedot ohel pt hepl anet ’ ’ .Levi ’ shaveal onghi s t oryofcar i ng,bot hf ort hecommuni t i est hey wor kandl i vei nandf ort heenvi r onment . Thebr andbel i evest hatmaki ngamar ki nt hewor l di saboutwhatyoudo,butal s ohow youdoi t .Levi ’ s s t r i vet ol ever aget hei ri coni cbr andt odr i vepos i t i veands us t ai nabl ec hange,bymaki ngpr oduct st hat l as t ,t hey’ vet akenas er i ousappr oac ht os us t ai nabi l i t y–onet hatbeganmor et han140year sagowhen t hef i r s tr i vet–r ei nf or cedbl uej eanwasmade. Al s o,mor er ecent l ywi t has ci ent i f i cappr oac ht omaki ngt hei rpr oductl i f ecycl emor es us t ai nabl e, l eadi ngt oi nnovat i onsl i keWat er <Les sandWas t e<Les s .TheWat er <Les spr oces sappr oac hest he deci s i onsmadei nt hedes i gnpr oces si nauni queway,r educi ngt heamountofwat erus edi nt hef i ni s hi ng pr oces s .Byr emovi ngwat erf r om s t onewas hesorcombi ni ngmul t i pl ewetcycl epr oces s es ,t hebr and canr educewat erus age.Upt o90per centf ors omes t yl es ,att hes amet i me,t heys t i l ldel i vert hes ame l ookandf eel . Thebr andbel i evest hats us t ai nabi l i t ygoesbeyondf arr egul at orycompl i anceormi ni mi s i ngt he envi r onment ali mpactoft hebus i nes spr act i ces .Thei rvi s i oni st obui l ds us t ai nabi l i t yi nt oeveryt hi ng t heydo,s ot hatt hei rpr of i t abl egr owt hhel psr es t or et hepl anet .
Mi l l enni al swi l lbeabi gcons umerpr of i l ef ort hecol l abor at i on, t heyar et hekeygr oupdr i vi ngt hedemandf ors us t ai nabl e goodsands er vi ces .Af t erl ooki ngonWGSN,Ihavef oundout t hatMi l l enni al sar et wi ceasl i kel yast heover al li nves t or popul at i ont oi nves ti ngoods oci alandeconomi cpr act i ces .Thi s cons umerat t i t udei smi rr or edi nt hewor kpl ace,ar eports ays Mi l l enni al sar et hr eet i mesmor el i kel yt ohaves ought emp oymentwi t has us t ai nabl y–mi ndedcompany. m l 66% ofmi l l enni al ss ayt hatt heyar ewi l l i ngt opaymor ef or pr oduct sands er vi cest hathavecomef r om compani est hatar e verycommi t t edt opos i t i ves oci alandenvi r onment ali mpact s . Savvybr andss eem t obet appi ngi nt ot hegl obalgr owi ngdes i r e f ors us t ai nabl el i vi ngwi t hnew r et ai lconcept st hatpr omot e car e,r epai r ,r ecycl i ngandci r cul arcommer ce.Vi nt agef as hi on i sbecomi ngmor epopul art haneverandi sani mport antt hi ng f ormi l l enni al s ,ast heybuyi nt oi tmor et hananaver age cons umer .Sal esofhi ghendvi nt agecl ot hi nghasgr ownover 82% i nt hef as hi oni ndus t ryandkeepsgr owi ng. Wewi l lmakes ur eourcol l abor at i ons ui t sbot hcons umer gr oups ,byus i ngdar kcol our sandf r ayed/ r aw edgesofdeni m andunus ual ,mi s spl aced/ ups i dedownpoc ket soncl ot hi ng whi c hwi l lr ef l ectt he‘ di f f er ent ’s t yl et as t eofaVet ement s cons umer .Wewi l lbr i ngi nvi nt agei coni cdeni mf r om Levi ’ s , wi t hover s i zedcut sappeal i ngt obot hLevi ’ sandVet ement s cons umer s .Wewi l lmakes ur eourcol l abor at i oni shi ghl y s us t ai nabl ebyus i ngr ecycl eddeni m,t he‘ Wat er <Les s ’pr oces s madebyLevi ’ sandr ecycl edpaperandcar df ors wi ngt agsand s hoppi ngbags .Ourcl ot hi ngwi l lbes ol dgl obal l yonwebs i t es s uc hasNet aPort erandDoverSt r eetMar ket .Wewi l lal s ohave t wopopups t or es ,onei nPar i sandanot heri nSanFr anci s co; t hes ebei ngt het womai npl acesofbot hbr ands .
Des i gni ngt hel ogowasoneofmyf avour i t epart sasIl ovegr aphi cdes i gn,Idi dn’ t wantt ocr eat eanew l ogof oranew ‘ br and’butmor eal ogof ort hef aceoft he col l abor at i on,t hi si swhywedeci dedt ocal lt hecol l ect i on‘ Vet ement sX Levi ’ s ’ .So obvi ous l yIt ookbot hor i gi nall ogosoft hebr andandpl ayedar oundwi t hcutout sof deni m.Is t art edbyl ayi ngt hel ogosovert hes ebutIknew s omet hi ngwasmi s s i ng,t he ‘ X’ !It henhadapl ayar oundwi t hus i ngt hel et t erX i ndi f f er entwaysbutIdi dn’ t t hi nkt hi sl ookedveryef f ect i ve.It hens t art edus i ngt hepai ntt oolanddi f f er ent brus hesandf oundt hati twasexact l ywhatIwasl ooki ngf or !Thef i nall ogoi mi t at es t her ecl ai meddeni mt hatt hecol l abor at i onwi l lus e,whi c hi sLevi ’ smos ts i gni f i cant t ouc hpoi nt .Icar ef ul l ys el ect edt hepi eceofdeni ms oi ts howst her aw nat ur eofbot h Vet ement sandt hewayi ti sgoi ngt obeus ed.Thepl acementoft hewor dsbei ng cent r edbutt hedeni m bei ngof fcent r es howsal mos tanonperf ect i oni s tt houghtas i t ’ snots ymmet r i cal ,t hi scanbes eeni nal otofVet ement s ’cl ot hi ng.The‘ X’i sof t en us edt odes cr i bet hatacol l abor at i oni soccurr i ngbuti nt hi scas ei tal s oappear st o s how t hatt hedeni m hasbeencut ,t hi scanhi ntatt hef actt hatt hedeni mi st obe r econs t ruct ed.
3 . 3
LOGO DEVELOPMENT
FI NALLOGO
3 . 4
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Thedeni mj ac keti sar ecycl edpi eceus i ngonl y r ecycl edmat er i al swhi l s tbei ngpur pos ef ul l y di s t r es s ed.Thej ac ketcons i s t sofmul t i pl epanel sof deni m comi ngf r om di f f er entt ypesofcl ot hi ng,t he mos tnot i ceabl ebei ngt hebac koft hej ac ket wher ebyt het ops ect i onwi t ht hebel thoopsar e ut i l i s edt omakeupt hemaj or i t yoft hebac koft he j ac ket .Ihavec hos ent opl acet hepoc ket sont he j eansatt hebot t om i nor dert oi mi t at et hel ookof f l i ppi ngapai rofj eansups i dedown.Ther eas on behi ndmaki ngt hej eanswi del egwast oport r ayt he l ookofanormalpai rofj eansi nwhi c ht het opi s normal l ywi dert oaccommodat et henat ur alwi der partoft hel eg.Thei deaoft urni ngt heconvent i onal us eofdeni m‘ ups i dedown’r ef l ect swel lhow Vet ement shast urnedt hef as hi oni ndus t ryups i de downbyi dol i s i ngt r adi t i onal l y‘ ugl y’cl ot hes .The f r ayss how ar awnes st ot hem whi c hl i nksi tt onot onl yt hevi nt agel ookoft hedeni m butt hi ss t yl ei s al s ous edof t eni nVet ement s .
Wehavec hos ent of ocusourcol l ect i onmai nl yondeni mj ac ket s andj eans ,t hes ebei ngt hemos tpopul arcl ot hi ngi t emsofLevi ’ s . Wehavedes i gnedt hem wi t hveryl oos ehemsandveryf r ayed edgest oemphas i s et hatt hecl ot hi ngi sr aw.Thef r ayededgesand l oos ehemswi l lal s oenhancet heunus ual/qui r kys t yl eof Vet ement scl ot hi ng,keepi ngi tdeni m whi c hwi l lappealt oa Levi ’ scons umer .Wewi l lus edar kgot hi ccol our eddeni mss uc h asdar kbl uesandbl ac kbecaus eaf t erdoi ng20x20r es ear c h,we f oundt hatgot hi ccol our swasahugepartofVet ement scl ot hi ng. Wewi l lkeept hevi nt agevi beofLevi ’ sj eansbykeepi ngt hej eans over s i zed,i coni candcl as s i cwi t hanedgys t yl e.
Thecl ot hi ngwi l lf ol l ow Vet ement swei r d/uni ques t yl e,wewi l l dot hi sbyt urni ngpoc ket sups i dedownandput t i ngt het opsof j eansatt hebot t om.Thi swi l lappealt ot heVet ement st ar get cons umer–t heMi l l enni al sast heyar ei nt ouni ques t yl es cl ot hi ngt hats t ands .Wehavedeci dedonpr i cesf orourpr oduct s , s omewi l lbemor eexpens i vet hanot her sdependi ngonhow muc hf abr i ci sus ed.Ourf i r s tpai rofj eanswi l lbepr i cedat£899, s econdpai rwi l lbe£849.Forourdeni mj ac ket s ,t hef i r s tonewi l l bepr i cedat£1399ands econd£1, 249.Wehaveal s odeci dedon s t oc ki ng25ofeac hi t em i nourt wopopups t or esandt hens el l 250ofeac hi t em onl i ne.Thi swaywewon’ toverpr oducei t ems whi c hmeanseac hgarmentwi l lhavei t suni quec har act er i s t i c.
Wr i t t enanddes i gnsby DemiJones
3 . 5 CROQUI S
Iwant edt omaket hes wi ngt agsi nl i newi t ht hebr andcol l abor at i onet hos ,t hekey el ementbei ngs us t ai nabi l i t y,s oIs t art edt ol ookatdi f f er entwaysIcoul dat t ac ht he t agus i ngi t emst hatcoul dbemadeus i ngr ecycl edi t ems .If el tt hi swoul dbewher eI coul dbemos tcr eat i ve.Theobvi ouss t art i ngpoi ntwaspi c ki ngt hebodyoft het ag, whi c hwaseas yt oes t abl i s h-paperandcar dboar d,whi c har eeas i l yr ecycl ed wor l dwi deandi swi del yavai l abl e.I naddi t i on,t hepaperorcar dboar dt hatwi l lbe us edcoul dbes our cedf r om r ecycl edmat er i al s .Thet agwoul dhavet hecol l abor at i on l ogopl acedoni t ,Idonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tf eeli ti sneces s aryt odi s pl ayt hepr i cepoi nt soft hei t emsas cus t omer sar eawar eoft hepr i cesandt hepr oduct swi l lmos t l ybes ol donl i ne.I t houghtaboutus i ngs mal lamount sofbungeecor dt oat t ac ht het agst ot hepr oduct s butr eal i s t i cal l yt hi swoul dbet oot hi c kandnots us t ai nabl eenough.It hent houghtI coul dus es t r i ngandat t ac ht hes t r i ngi nvar i ousways ,byei t hert yi ngi tont ot hei t em wi t haknotorat t ac hi ngi twi t hs t apl eswhi c hwoul dgi vei tani ndus t r i alf eel .The f i nalt agwasc hos enf ormul t i pl er eas ons ,t hes ebei ng;t heus eoft hedi s t r es s ed, r ecycl eds t r i ngwhi c hf al l si nl i newi t ht hecol l abor at i on,t hes t apl ewhi c hwi l lat t ac h t hes t r i ngandt agt oget herwi l lbepl acedi nancas ualf as hi ont or ef l ectt her aw f eelof t hepr oduct s .Thet agwi l lbewhi t ecar d,whi c hi seas i l yr ecycl abl eandext r emel y mi ni mal i s t i c.
3 . 6 SWI NG TAGS
FI NALSWI NG TAG
Thepac kagi ngoft hepr oductr equi r edmuc ht houghtasIhadt okeepi nmi ndt he s us t ai nabl emot i fcarr i edt hr oughoutt hecol l abor at i on.Ial s ohadt ot hi nkabouthow t hepr oductwoul dbepac kagedf oronl i nes al esaswel lasi ns t or e.Iwant edt oens ur e t hatcus t omer swhos hoppedonl i newoul ds t i l lexper i enceat r ans act i ons i mi l art o t hos ewhos hoppedatt hepopupl ocat i ons .Toens ur et hi s ,Ihavecr eat edat ot ebag whi c hwi l lcomewi t hbot hi ns t or eandonl i nepur c has es .Thet ot ebagi spl ai nbl ac k wi t ht hel ogos t r appedoni t .Thei deabehi ndt het ot ebagi st opr ovi dear ecycl abl e s us t ai nabl emet hodofuni f yi ngt heonl i neandi ns t or et r ans act i onsaswel lasbei nga mai nt ouc hpoi ntf ort hecol l abor at i on.I naddi t i on,t het ot ebagwi l ldoubl easadus t bagt opr ot ecteac hi t em whi l s tal s opr event i ngt heus eofpl as t i cpac kagi ng.Paper bagswer ec hos enf ori ns t or et r ans act i onsast heyar er ecycl abl eandi ndus t r i al f i t t i ngwi t ht hebr andnarr at i ve.Theboxeswi l lbeus edf oronl i nes hi ppi ngor der s ,i n whi c hi t emswi l lbei ndi vi dual l ypl acedi nt hei rt ot ebags( i fmor et hanonei t em i s pur c has ed) .Theboxwi l lhavet hel ogodi s pl ayedl ar gel yont her oofoft heboxaswel l ast apebei ngus edt os ecur eandhi ghl i ghtt hebox.
3 . 7
PACKAGI NG
3 . 8
PROMOTI ON
Topr omot et hecol l abor at i on,t hemos tbenef i ci alf orm ofadvert i s i ngi s doi ngwhatVet ement sdoesbes t .Ut i l i s i ngt hei ral r eadyvi r alI ns t agr am accountwi t h2. 7mi l l i onf ol l ower s ,s neakpeakswi l lbepos t edi nt he upcomi ngweeksanddayspr i ort ot hedr opdat e.Thes ewi l li ncl udecl os e upi magesoft hei t ems ,avoi di ngaf ul lr evealast hemai nai mi st ocr eat e hypeont hel eadupt ot her el eas e.I naddi t i on,hi ghl yedi t edvi deoswi l l al s obemadet ocr eat ef urt herexci t ement .Ast hecus t omerpr of i l ef ort he col l abor at i oni st ai l or edt oMi l l enni al si twoul dbeadvant ageoust odoa pai dadvert i s ementwi t hHypeBeas tas t r eet wearmagazi newhoal s ohave ani ncr edi bl epopul arI ns t agr am accountwi t hdoubl et heamountof f ol l ower st hatVet ement shas( 5. 7mi l l on) .Thi swoul dgener at eahuge buzzasi twoul dr eac hal ar gercapt i veaudi encet hanVet ement sof f i ci al I ns t agr am page.
Ass pokenaboutbr i ef l y,t her ewi l lbet wopopups t or esi nPar i sandSanFr anci s cowhi c h wi l ls el lt hecol l abor at i onpr oduct sonl y.Thes el ocat i onswer ec hos enast hi si swher et he br andsor i gi nat ef r om,addi ngt ot heaut hent i ci t yoft hecol l abor at i on.ThePar i ss t or ewi l l bedes i gnedwi t haVet ement saes t het i ci nmi ndwi t hf eat ur ess uc has ,anobs cur el ocat i on l i keLaREcycl er i e,aconvert edt r ai ns t at i ont hati snow aCaf ét hati sf ul l ycommi t t edt o t he3R’ s ;r educe,r eus eandr ecycl e.Thepops t or ewoul dus er ecycl edr ai l s ,t hatcoul d evenbebr okent ocr eat earus t i cf eel .Ol di ndus t r i als t or ageandf urni t ur ef oundi n ameni t ys i t esandc har i t ys hopscoul dbeus edt of orm acl as s i cVet ement sat mos pher e. TheLevi ’ ss t or ei nSanFr anci s cowi l lhaveas i mi l arf eelbutal i t t l el es sedgy,andmor e mi ni mal i s t .TheSanFr anci s coNavalShi pyar di sani deall ocat i onast hi scoul dmai nt ai n ani ndus t r i alyets us t ai nabl eai r ,t hei t emswoul dbepl acedi nacoupl eofs hi ppi ngcont ai ns whi c hwi l lhavebeenupcycl edt ohaveamodernt wi s t ,t hecl ot hi ngwi l lbedi s pl ayedus i ng hooksandr ai l swhi c hwi l lbes cr ewedt ot hewal l soft hecont ai ner ,t hi swi l lcr eat eavery s l eekur banf eel . Thepopups t or ewi l lbepr omot edvi at heVet ement sI ns t agr am bycr eat i ngvar i ous pos t er swhi c hwi l lpr ovi dedat esandal i nkt ot heVet ement swebs i t ewher epot ent i al cons umer scanent erar af f l et ogetani nvi t at i ont ot hepopupwher et heymus tbuyan i t em,t her ewi l lbe350i nvi t esperpopup.I ft hecus t omeri ss ucces s f ult heywi l lbe emai l edt hel ocat i onandani nvi t at i ont heni ghtbef or et hepopups t or eopeni ng.Byonl y pos t i ngt hedat eont heI ns t agr am i tenabl est hecus t omer st okeept hedat ef r eeaswel las gener at i ngf urt herhypef ort hecol l abor at i onr el eas e.Ther eas onbehi ndt hef i nat eamount ofi nvi t at i onsi st ocont i nuewi t ht hel i mi t edavai l abi l i t yt hatVet ement sal wayspr ovi des , t husgi vi ngi taf eel i ngofexcl us i vi t y.Thi si ses peci al l yi mport antt oVet ement scons umer s whot hr i veont hel i mi t ednat ur eoft hebr and.
4 . 0
Thi smodul ehast aughtmeaweal t hoft ec hni quesi ncl udi ngt he20x20met hod,but al s ohow t odes i gnf l at sanddevel opi ngmyconf i dencewi t hPhot os hopand I l l us t r at or .If eelt hatus i ngt hes epl at f ormshashel pedmedevel opmypr es ent at i on s ki l l svas t l yt hr oughcr eat i ngmyr eport sf ul l yus i ngPhot os hop,des i gni ngl ogos , s wi ngt agsandpac kagi ngonI l l us t r at orandi mpr ovi ngmyknowl edgeofi mageand t extpl acement .
CONCLUSI ON
Thr oughmyr es ear c h,Il earnedveryear l yonhow compl exabr andVet ement si s .At f i r s tIt houghtVet ement swasabr andwi t hr i di cul ouspr i cepoi nt sf orwhatt heys el l , maki ngcont r over s i al ,ugl ycl ot hesf ornoappar entr eas onai mi ngatt her i c hki dsof I ns t agr am.However ,af t err eadi ngmanyart i cl esandcomi ngacr os smanyaccount s onI ns t agr am Is oonr eal i s edt hi swasnott hecas eatal l .I nf act ,Vet ement si shi ghl y commendabl e,pol i t i cal l yact i ve,l uxurys t r eet wearbr and.I tt r eadst hel i nebet ween r ebel l i ousandi ngeni ousbycr eat i ngconver s at i onpi ecest hatdoubl easf l amboyant s t r eet wear .Vet ement smar c ht ot hebeatoft hei rowndrum,andi tappear st hat ot her swi l ls oonf ol l ow s ui t ,demons t r at i ngt het r i c kl edownef f ect . Iwoul dhavenevert houghtVet ement swoul dbes uc hanenvi r onment al l ycons ci ous f as hi onpower hous e,doi ngt hei rbi ti nani ndus t rydr owni ngi nover pr oduct i onby pr oduci ngveryl i mi t edamountofs t oc kt hatal s ocr eat esexci t ementf orf ut ur e pi ecesbyt hei rbr and.Thei rgr as pofs uppl yanddemandi ss econdt onone.
Fi gur e13:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
However ,r ef l ect i ngonr ecentnewss t or i esaboutVet ement sl os i ngt r act i oni nt hef as hi oni ndus t ry, i ti scl eart hatI ’ dneedt oc hangeaf ew t hi ngswi t hi nourcol l abor at i on.Themai ni s s uet hat Vet ement sar ebei ngf acedwi t hi st hef actt hei rpr oduct sar enol ongernew andexci t i ng,t heyar e r ewor ki ngandr ei s s ui ngol dcol l ect i onsl i ket heDHLt s hi rti nwhi c ht heybas edt hei rent i r eSS18 col l ect i onof f .Thei rl oyalcons umer sar en’ tl i ki ngt hi ss i mpl ybecaus e-i t ’ sbeendonebef or e.The r eas onVet ement swer eatt hef or ef r ontoff as hi onwasbecaus et heywer epr oduci ngi t emsnever s eenbef or eandi deast hathadneverbeendone.Br andss uc hasOf fWhi t eandBal enci aga,ar edoi ng whatVet ement sdoesbutbet t er ,wi t hal owerpr i cepoi ntandpot ent i al l yhi gherqual i t y. I nor dert ocombatt hi si s s uet her ear emul t i pl es t r at egi esIcoul dputi nt opl acet oens ur et he col l ect i ons el l sanddoes n’ tgoons al e,whi c hi soneofVet ement skeyt ouc hpoi nt s .Oneopt i ont hat coul dbedi s cus s edi st hei deaofcr eat i ngabr i dgebr and,l i keCommeDesGar conhast hei rPLAY l i ne.Thi ss t r at egycoul dbeadopt edwi t hi nVet ement s .Havi ngt hi sbr i dgebr andwoul dunl oc ka whol enew s ect i onofcons umer st hatmayhavepr evi ous l yyearnedf ort hebr andbuts i mpl ycoul d notaf f or dt heas t r onomi calpr i cepoi nt s .Thi sl i newoul dbeknownast hei rcas uall uxuryl i ne,whi c h s el l sbas i css uc hasgr aphi choodi esandt eesf oramuc hl owerpr i cer ange( £100300) .Apot ent i al namecoul dbeVet ement sObl i gat oi r ess i mpl yt r ans l at i ngt omandat orycl ot hi ng.Rel eas i ngar ange ofes s ent i al scoul dbr i ngbac kpr evi ouscus t omer st hatmayhavel os ti nt er es tf r om t hei ri ni t i al pur c has e. Anot hers t r at egyt heycoul dadopt ,woul dbet ohavet wodi f f er entl i nesf ort hecol l abor at i onwi t h t wodi f f er entpr i cepoi nt s .Havi ngpartoft hecol l abor at i onpr i cedi nl i newi t hVet ement sus ualhi gh pr i ceswoul ds t i l lal l ow f oranel ementofexcl us i vi t yf ort hei rl ongt erm l oyalcus t omer s .However , byi nt r oduci ngadi f f er entl i neoft hecol l abor at i on,pr i cedmor ei nl i newi t hLevi ’ snormalpr i cest hi s coul dal l ow f ornew cus t omer st obecomei nt er es t ed.Es peci al l yi ft hi ss ect i onoft hecol l abor at i oni s mar ket edal mos tasan‘ I nt r oduct i ont oVet ement s ’ .I nt r oduci ngmor ecus t omer scoul dwor k t owar dspr event i ngs omeoft hei rmor eout l andi s hpi ecesgoi ngons al eatdi f f er entr et ai l er s .
REFERENCES
Fi gur e14:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
5 . 0
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I ndvi k,L.( 2016) .Vet ement sCEODi s cus s esMet eor i cRi s e,SaysHeWon' tDoFas hi onFor ever . Fas hi oni s t a.Ret r i eved15January2018,f r om ht t ps : / / f as hi oni s t a. com/ 2016/ 05/ gur amgvas al i avet ement s Kat eFi nni gan.( 2016) .DemnaGvas al i aonr ace,t hatDHLTs hi rtandwhyhewoul dn' tpayf orhi s owndes i gns .TheTel egr aph.Ret r i eved16January2018,f r om ht t p: / / www. t el egr aph. co. uk/ f as hi on/ peopl e/ demnagvas al i aonr acet hat dhl t s hi rt andwhyhew oul dnt payf / Landrum,S.( 2017) .Mi l l enni al sDr i vi ngBr andsToPr act i ceSoci al l yRes pons i bl eMar ket i ng. For bes . com.Ret r i eved10Mar c h2018,f r om ht t ps : / / www. f or bes . com/ s i t es / s ar ahl andrum/ 2017/ 03/ 17/ mi l l enni al s dr i vi ngbr ands t opr act i ces o ci al l yr es pons i bl emar ket i ng/ #5209f 0584990/ LeviSt r aus s& Co.Cul t ur e-LeviSt r aus s .LeviSt r aus s .Ret r i eved12February2018,f r om ht t p: / / www. l evi s t r aus s . com/ whowear e/ cul t ur e/ LEVISTRAUSS& CO.REACHES1BI LLI ONLI TERSOFWATERSAVEDTHROUGH SUSTAI NABI LI TYI NI TI ATI VES;RELEASESNEW ENVI RONMENTALI MPACTSTUDYON APPAREL.( 2015) .Levi s t r aus s . com.Ret r i eved29Mar c h2018,f r om ht t p: / / l evi s t r aus s . com/ wpcont ent / upl oads / 2015/ 03/ News Rel eas eLCAFI NAL. pdf LeviSt r aus s .Wi ki pedi a.Ret r i eved10February2018,f r om ht t ps : / / en. wi ki pedi a. or g/ wi ki / Levi _St r aus s Mar s hal l ,A.( 2016) .TheCul tofVet ement s .WSJ.Ret r i eved15January2018,f r om ht t ps : / / www. ws j . com/ art i cl es / t hecul t of vet ement s 1466760601 Of fWhi t e|HYPEBEAST.Hypebeas t . com.Ret r i eved16January2018,f r om ht t ps : / / hypebeas t . com/ t ags / of f whi t e
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Fi gur e15:Vet ement sI ns t agr am
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