GLOW OLD AUTUMN/WINTER 2020
introduction Luxury health and beauty brands are waking up to the positive new world of pro ageing, this is a revolutionary movement dedicated to embracing the ageing process. Previously, youth was the pinnacle of beauty and the prime of life, in 2020 there will be no perfect age. Boomers and Generation X are redefining age and there will be an ageless mindset where people will be happy in their own skin and the perks of ageing will be embraced naturally. Population demographics all over the world are changing with some growing older and some becoming younger, but a common factor between them all is in 2020 we will no longer be divided by age.
glow old In autumn/winter 2020, consumers will no longer be investing in skincare products that claim to help prevent ageing; instead products will focus on nourishing the skin, creating a natural glow. This will promote self-esteem, encouraging the older woman to feel happier not only in her own skin but when surrounded by others. This more confident woman, no longer scared of ageing will socialise, emphasise and sympathise with her peers – making her a new vibrant woman! Consumers will be embrace their age and change their lifestyle in order to live a more natural life. With research and huge amounts of information surrounding the damages of a society addicted to sugar and the negative effects some skincare products have on your skin, consumers are opening their eyes and changing not only their lifestyle patterns, but also the way they view themselves. This change will reflect a more holistic approach that people will take towards health and wellness, with a huge consideration given to mind, body and soul as well as physical appearance.
Glow Old will encourage individuals to try and live a more natural life, doing so, will benefit not only themselves but also the planet, by eating organically for example. Organic food hasn’t been touched by any harmful chemicals and pesticides or been produced in huge factories and battery farms which hugely impacts on global warming. This will then encourage other people to do the same, demonstrating the start of a modern movement. Brands will be the catalysts for this movement, helping to not only speed it up, but make this movement global. A large part of living a natural life will be learning to love your natural self; this means that people will have to learn how to do so. Body positivity is a massive talking point within our society as of now, but this usually concerns beauty at every size, however in 2020 this will develop further to tackle the taboo of ageing. People will be proud of their age and the way that they look.
Allure magazine announced it would stop using the expression ‘anti-ageing’ in all of its content, from August 2017 when Helen Mirren took the cover. This will impact the beauty industry and create a movement in which other magazines will follow. Allure magazine made this move due to the negative consumer attitudes towards ageing changing rapidly, looking after your skin in a pro age natural and organic way will override focus on wrinkles and other common signs of ageing. An article spoke about brands using positive language and terms such as pro-ageing and ageless to talk about the process in a glowing light in the future. They produced a campaign video which featured 64-year-old Jo Johnson in which she ended the video with a powerful statement ‘Repeat after me: Growing older is a wonderful thing because it means that we get a chance, every day, to live a full, happy life.’
consumer
The Baby Boomers and Generation X, are more digitally accessible than ever before, however, there too many presumptions surrounding how inaccessible the older generation is. People think they’re harder to reach out to, stuck in their own ways and are afraid of change. However, while these generations do not share the same values and attitudes, as their offspring, the millennials, they have plenty of similarities. According to WMFC they share similarities such as optimism, fun, ambition, ethical awareness and loyalty. (‘Generational Differences Chart’, n.d.) From their tech startups to their social attitudes, millennials are viewed as the generation to look to for innovative future thinking and are also known as the generation of emotional intelligence according to NPR. This has resulted in most companies focusing entirely on this generation by creating and marketing products, services and workplaces that meet their values and demands. But, experience is crucial to the development of our society and with this is a need to reassess what ageing means today. Older consumers command a huge amount of spending power. The myth that they are tricky to reach via digital platforms is unfounded, especially when it comes to younger ‘connected boomers’. Boomers have enabled Facebook to continually beat analysts’ expectations, and increasingly desire platforms that meet their own needs such as keeping in contact with family and friends. Ageing isn’t necessarily synonymous with poor health, and this is the generation that is keen to discredit the myth that ageing automictically makes people weak and frail. Therefore, brands need to change their marketing techniques and look at who their audience actually is.
age rebranded Previously you would never see older models used for campaigns and catwalks. In 2020, brands will use a larger demographic of models including the Baby Boomer generation and Generation X on their catwalks and in their advertisements as a way of showing support for the different society shifts in beauty. By adding the generation into advertisements it will not only remove the taboo but increase the awareness surrounding ageing, and that it is to be embraced, not dreaded. It is also reflective of a wider cultural shift away from a long-standing obsession with youth, to an attitude that has empathy with the ageing process. Through utilising the Boomer generation within the campaigns, brands will generate more sales because we know that this generation has greater access to technology than was previously believed.
Lancôme introduced this to their brand with their #LoveYourAge approach, with four ambassadors of different ages who reveal their age with pride. Engaging both millennials and Baby Boomer demographics, the campaign encourages consumers to break the mould and to see beauty beyond age, because beauty is not about hiding how old you are, but is about loving and making the most out of life. The rebranding of products has already begun with Pro Age (Dove) and Age Perfect (L’Oréal), this positive alternative is a huge movement in the industry and will be influencing brands in 2020. This change of stance from the beauty industries long standing obsession with youth, to a position of acceptance of the ageing process will bring a rise in inclusivity. Models and muses such as Daphne Selfe, Cindy Joseph, Lauren Hutton and Jan de Villeneuve are hugely popular models and busier than ever before. There is a power that these models release, saying that it’s incredibly important to be proud of your age. Alyson Walsh is a freelance journalist and former fashion magazine editor, on Instagram she has 37.4K followers. Alyson is also the founder of the online blog ‘That’s Not My Age’, which began in 2008 where she found a space online to celebrate women of all ages. Her blog posts talk about an amalgamation of topics such as; skincare, haircare, style and lifestyle, specifically for the older generation. She talks extensively and positively on such taboo topics as menopause. Alyson influences this movement of being age positive, as essentially her message is to not be afraid of being 50 and over.
WOMAN POWER WOMAN POWER WOMAN
In previous decades fashion has been centered around a young demographic, with these people dominating not only the catwalks but also all advertisements. However, with the power shift in women having more disposable income than previously brands will have no choice but to change their tactics and include all demographics within their marketing techniques. Baby Boomer and Generation X women are known to be more financially empowered than any generation prior to them. According to Sheconomy, women aged 50 and older, control a net worth of $19 trillion and own more than three-fourths of the nation’s financial wealth, these wealthy Boomers and Generation X women are making 95% of purchase decisions for their households. This means brands will be forced to cater to this and the best way of doing so is to be able to empathise with their clients. Older women are not as interested and cannot relate to a teenage model, by becoming relatable they become realistic and therefore desirable.
authentic beauty Brands will start to use more holistic and positive language like ‘glow’, ‘radiance’ and ‘luminosity’, rather than positioning skin as something that requires a fight to maintain. It is clear that individuals are skin conscious and want to achieve healthier skin, according to a recent questionnaire compiled by myself. Using positive language when advertising products means individuals will be more likely to buy products as they are described, more in line with how people want to feel and look - well hydrated and free of blemishes. Glossier founded in 2014 has risen to the top, becoming one of the most popular beauty brands today. The brand focuses instinctively on how the generation wants to use skin care. Glossier’s serums and exfoliators never hint at wrinkles and aging, instead talking about ‘tired’ skin and ‘even’ skin tone. This caught on, resulting in an increased focus on brightening and glow rather than ageing. Another revolutionary brand is Drunk Elephant, which landed in the UK during October 2018. It is currently one of the buzziest skin care brands around and is one of the best-selling brands in Sephora. This brand focuses completely on pro age and is committed to using only ingredients that benefit the skin’s health. The beauty industry will produce products that embrace rather than battle ageing, as new treatments emerge that focus on tone and texture.
Luxury beauty brands in 2020 will focus on natural, high quality ingredients that work with the skin and not against it. A number of small brands, such as Neal’s Yard Remedies, Axiology and MS Skincare are leading the way. Each brand demonstrates their commitment to developing new and innovative products using 100% natural and organic remedies. Neal’s Yard Remedies believe that outer beauty and inner health should be in perfect balance. ‘We use the highest possible percentage of organic ingredients as they are both kinder to the earth and kinder to you’ they state on their website. The brand was the first in the world to be awarded 100/100 for ethics by the Ethical Company Organisation. (“About Our Commitments | Neal’s Yard Remedies”, n.d.) The company believes that its ultimate goal is to put their consumer’s health and wellbeing at the forefront of their business, doing so they build strong, life-long relationships with the organic farmers who grow the ingredients for their products sustainably and harvest by hand.
For all its progress in the natural space, the beauty industry is still pretty shady. Animal testing and palm oil are still a thing and knowing what clean versus natural�is still pretty darn confusing." - AXIOLOGY
MS Skincare, also known as Mullein & Sparrow is a luxurious botanical beauty brand that is natural, vegan and also cruelty free. The Brooklyn based brand sources its ingredients locally from small farms which safeguards the farmers but also allows the brand to get only the best organic produce. The brand states they are redefining luxury with sustainable beauty products for the discerning woman who wants cosmetics that will nourish and protect her skin, essentially making it glow with health.
an ageing appetite
The process of changing consumer mindsets from purchasing anti-ageing products to adopting a more natural approach towards anti-ageing through the promotion of a healthier diet is going to be prominent in 2020. Brands will wake up and campaign natural ways to combat the ageing process. Too many brands are focusing on calorie restricting diets, which is not natural. In 2020, brands will approach diets with a holistic attitude and encourage individuals to cut down on the bad things in their diet and focus on eating organically and naturally. A report written by the Independent has stated that there must be a reduction in meat consumption to lessen the impact of agriculture on global warming, although meat is good for your skin and health, its only good when it has come from happy, field raised animals where these animals have been kept away from caged environments, in which they are fed antibiotics and hormones which, as expected, are really bad for the human body. According to the NHS, ‘A considerable amount of antibiotics are used in healthy animals to prevent infection or speed up their growth. This is particularly the case in intensive farming, where animals are kept in confined conditions.’ In doing so it is shown that ‘drug-resistant strains could be passed to humans more generally when they prepare or eat the meat’ therefore lessening the effect of necessary antibiotics on the human body.’ (NHS, 2015)
Buying organically, will not only reduce the amount of meat consumed, but also improve the health of consumers. By reducing the amount of meat we eat, we eliminate the need for as much livestock. The message behind this is to change our diet and begin to eat food that suits our biological makeup. According to Viva Health, our bodies are naturally better suited for eating starches, fruits and vegetables rather than meat. This can be seen in the genetic makeup of our teeth, with flat molars being designed to grind up plant material and not tear up meat. One common fact is that cholesterol is harmful to human organs, however, plant foods do not contain any cholesterol, suggesting we should not consume as much meat as many of us do (Viva Health, n.d.) By being encouraged to eat less meat due to global warming, humans will develop a more balanced diet and subsequently ‘Eating less meat is naturally going to lower your risk of heart disease, cancer and obesity, and doing so will help you live longer’ (Delong, n.d.) The war on sugar will be fully underway during 2020 with main line brands denouncing the amount of sugar used in many products that we consume. Products like high fructose corn syrup, a sweetener made from corn starch and tasting much sweeter than natural sugar, will be a thing of the past. This is because studies have revealed the true damage sugar does to our skin as well as our bodies. The fact is that sugar is a huge influencer with regards to the speed in which individuals show the signs of age prematurely. A process called glycation is a chemical reaction caused by consuming excess sugar, in which sugar molecules permanently bond to proteins. This then leads to early signs of ageing where the skin appears discoloured, wrinkled and weathered which are three common signs of ageing people don’t want. A study published in the Journal of the American College of Nutrition, in which researchers studied the diets of 453 adults living in different countries and found that those who consumed more fish, olive oil and legumes were less prone to wrinkles than those who ate more meat, butter, high fat dairy and sugar. (Hay, 2018) It was highlighted that foods such as processed meat, soft drinks and pastries were most at fault for causing wrinkles, however in comparison green vegetables, nuts, olives, apples and pears were associated with reducing signs of ageing.
Being well hydrated is a good way to keep skin healthy and young-looking. The skin acts as a water reservoir and participates in fluid regulation for the whole body. Mild dehydration causes skin to appear flushed, dry and loose, with a loss of elasticity, which makes it look older than it is. The effects of dehydration on the skin are more noticeable on the face, than on the lower limbs. - WATER UK
Water will be a more popular tool in combating the ageing process in a natural manner. Brands will be encouraging consumers to have a higher daily water intake as studies show water can improve the skins look and feel by maintaining elasticity and reducing the appearance of sunken eyes. A leaflet produced by Water UK has stated ‘Being well hydrated is a good way to keep skin healthy and young-looking. The skin acts as a water reservoir and participates in fluid regulation for the whole body. Mild dehydration causes skin to appear flushed, dry and loose, with a loss of elasticity, which makes it look older than it is. The effects of dehydration on the skin are more noticeable on the face, than on the lower limbs’. (Wise up on water! Hydration and healthy ageing, n.d.) Another way of ensuring the correct amount of water is consumed daily is through the foods that we eat. Eating foods with a high percentage of water within them will help to make skin glow, for example, strawberries are 90% water and also contain antioxidants such as ellagic acid, which helps maintain elasticity in the skin and therefore helps to prevent sagging. In addition, vegetables such as spinach and cucumber are 96% water and fruits such as watermelon, grapefruit, oranges and apples are all extremely high in water content. Brands will promote the consumption of these fruits and vegetables to enable individuals to get the recommended daily intake of water easier than ever!
actively ageing Glowing old not only encompasses living naturally but also living an active lifestyle. Whereas Boomers and Generation X in the past have been overlooked and rarely targeted for advertising campaigns particularly when it comes to exercise. In 2020 this will not be the case, brands will take a more wider approach to fitness and not only target the millennials, but create campaigns using models of all ages which will entice the individuals into taking part in regular exercise. Through living a more natural lifestyle, consumers will be more positive about the idea of exercising and living a more active lifestyle. Brands must recognise this and in doing so will begin to cater towards the Baby Boomers and Generation X’s needs. Gyms such as Healthfit, Nifty After 50 and Club 50 are pioneers in the lifestyle category targeted at older generations, they will lead the way and inspire other companies to follow their footsteps by incorporating classes that are specifically designed to benefit the boomer generation, focusing on alleviating common stiffness and muscle strains, as well as improving posture and bone density, these are all functional actions as opposed to seeking just a physical improvement.
In order to encourage and welcome women, gyms will look to incorporate different tactics to entice consumers to sign up. This could be done through gyms creating exclusive areas which are large and not overcrowded and create a softer and more relaxed environment incorporating mood lighting and music to suit. In addition, smaller gyms could dedicate certain times of the day for different age and gender groups specifically a few times a week which will create a less daunting and intimidating atmosphere.
As stated by Alyson Walsh ‘Pilates is the new clubbing’. Pilates is good for strengthening and toning muscles as well as improving posture and flexibility. Gyms will be promoting this new ideal where the classes will not only help physically but will be a way of meeting new people and having fun. Pilate classes specifically created for the Baby Boomers and Generation X will become increasingly popular, and as stated on pilates.com ‘Pilates is one of the best ways for older adults to stay healthy.’ (Endelman, n.d.) Tai Chi is an exercise regime which originates from China during the 13th century where originally it was developed as a martial art. However, Tai Chi has recently re-emerged all over the world as a health-promoting exercise. ("A guide to tai chi" NHS, n.d.) Tai Chi in 2020 will be very popular amongst the Baby Boomer and Generation X demographics. Owing to its low impact exercises which focus on reducing stress and improving posture, the techniques are typically slow and graceful with many movement flowing smoothly into one another making the exercise ideal for older persons. In 2020, Tai Chi will not only be promoted as an exercise to be completed in gyms but brands will promote the idea that Tai Chi can be completed in the comfort of your own home.
Pilates is the new clubbing - ALYSON WALSH
summary
In Autumn/Winter 2020 the landscape of health and beauty will look completely different with the Glow Old movement becoming extremely popular with many different brands looking to innovate and adopt this. The luxury health and beauty market will see a change for the better. Consumers will be changing their lifestyle in order to live a natural, organic and healthy life and the health and beauty sector will be catering to this in a way that has never been done before. Generation X and the Baby Boomers will feel much happier in their own bodies as they embrace who they truly are and will not be afraid of ageing. The fitness boom in older people will increase confidence in themselves to encourage more people to also make the choice to not fight the ageing process and allow it to happen, but to attempt a more natural process in ageing. In doing so, this becomes a much nicer approach to ageing. In order to promote and help older women to feel happier in the own bodies there will also be a shift in the way advertising and catwalks are ran. Brands will take note of the recent empowerment of women in Generation X and the Baby Boomers this will force them to embrace these generations and include a variety of models from different age categories. The evolution of women’s rights has allowed women to flourish within the workplace and have access to disposable income more than any generation of women before. The luxury health and beauty market will take a new direction with new marketing techniques in order to meet the demands of these new consumers. The ever-evolving perception of beauty will see the removal of an industry so focused on age bias and will cause brands to embrace inclusivity and address individual beauty concerns, which will result in more customisation and personalisation of products, assuring the consumer that beauty choices are theirs to be made and theirs alone. The time is ripe to celebrate individualism in all its beauty.
A guide to tai chi. Retrieved from https://www.nhs.uk/live-well/exercise/guide-to-tai-chi/ About Our Commitments | Neal’s Yard Remedies. Retrieved from https://www.nealsyardremedies.com/about-our-commitment.html#certified-ethical-sourcing Antibiotic use in farm animals ‘threatens human health’. (2015). Retrieved from https:// www.nhs.uk/news/medication/antibiotic-use-in-farm-animals-threatens-human-health/ Delong, O. 5 Things That Happen to Your Body When You Stop Eating Meat. Retrieved from https://www.sharecare.com/health/vegetarian-diets/article/things-happen-stopeating-meat Endelman, K. Pilates and Older Adults: A Gentler, Effective Way to Stay Fit - Balanced Body. Retrieved from https://www.pilates.com/BBAPP/V/pilates/library/articles/pilatesfor-older-adults.html
references
Glossary | Axiology. Retrieved from https://axiologybeauty.com/pages/glossary Hay, R. (2018). Revealed: The many ways sugar is ageing and damaging your face. Retrieved from https://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-5595399/The-ways-sugar-ageing-damaging-face-8-diet-tweaks-undo-wear-tear.html Lee, M. (2017). Allure Magazine Will No Longer Use the Term “Anti-Aging.” Retrieved from https://www.allure.com/story/allure-magazine-phasing-out-the-word-anti-aging What is our natural diet? Are humans evolutionarily adapted to eat animals, plants or both?. Retrieved from https://www.vivahealth.org.uk/healthfeatures/what-our-natural-diet-are-humans-evolutionarily-adapted-eat-animals-plants-or-both Wise up on water! Hydration and healthy ageing. Retrieved from http://www.bournemouthwater.co.uk/Uploads/Docs/WUK%20Hydration%20%20Healthy%20Ageing.pdf Generational Differences Chart. Retrieved from http://www.wmfc.org/uploads/GenerationalDifferencesChart.pdf
image references
Cover – Image 1 - Family photo album scanned in by myself Page 4-5 – Image 1 – via WGSN Image 2 - https://www.lovebeautyandplanet.com/ us/en/body/products/bar-soap/murumuru-butter&-rose-bar-soap.html Image 3 – https://thatsnotmyage.com/beauty-over-40/ageless-beauty-72-year-old-loulouvan-damme-elle-india/ Image 4 - https://www.toneitup.com/recipe/3-slimming-smoothie-bowls-you-need-in-your-life-during-the-bikini-series/ Image 5 - https://www.stylist.co.uk/fashion/20easy-clever-quick-tricks-and-hacks-that-will-instantly-upcycle-your-home-interiors-bedroomkitchen-bathroom-makeover/116935 Image 6 – via Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/49047083427057135/?lp=true Page 6-7 – Image 1 – via WGSN, artist is Sally Deng Page 8-9 Image 1- https://www.pinterest.co.uk/ pin/570057265331900733/ Image 2 - https://www.truthinaging.com/review/indefense-of-anti-aging Page 10-11 Image 1 Image 2 - http://graphicartdesign.com/ blog/2018/06/23/watercolor-map-sketches-by-emily-garfield-via-nancy-herrmann/ Image 3 - https://society6.com/product/024-eig_ print?isrc=srt.popular-src.profile-hue.1#1=45 Page 12-13 – Image 1 – https://www.independent.co.uk/lifestyle/fashion/fashion-week-2018-london-newyork-milan-age-diversity-catwalk-a8552111.html Image 2 - https://fineartamerica.com/featured/ cherry-blossom-3-rachel-dutton.html
Page 14-15 – Image 1 - https://www.lancome.com.hk/en_HK/ discover-genifique/landing.html Page 18-19 – Image 1 – Taken by myself Page 24-25 – Image 1 – via WGSN Image 2 – via Pinterest https://www.pinterest.com/ pin/457748749606269674/?lp=true Image 3 – via WGSN Image 4 – http://www.leagalleria.com/product/axiology-the-goodness-lipstick/ Image 5 – via Axiology Instagram (@axiology_beauty) Image 6 - via Axiology Instagram (@axiology_beauty) Page 26-27 – Image 1 – Taken by myself Image 2 - Taken by myself Page 28-29 – Image 1 – Taken by myself Page 32-33 – Image 1 – via WGSN Image 2 - https://thedesignfiles.net/2015/09/goodvibes-yoga/ Image 3 - http://usseniorcitizen.us/index.php/component/k2/item/284-controlling-anger-by-meditation Page 34-35 – Image 1 – https://www.mindbodygreen.com/029025/is-your-gym-nicer-than-your-apartmenthow-design-and-tech-are-transforming-fitness. html Image 2 – via WGSN Image 3 – via WGSN Image 4 – via WGSN Page 36-37 – Image 1 - http://sallydeng.com/#/women-work/
Courtney Glover AD5605 Fashion Forecasting and Narrative