COURTNEYDAVENPORTGLOVER AD4606I NTRODUCTI ONTOBRANDI NG WORDCOUNT:3,474
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CONTENTS 4-7: 8-9: 10-11: 12-13: 14-15: 16-17: 18-19: 2021: 22-23: 24-25: 26-27:
I NTRODUCTI ON GOTHI C RAW ANDROGYNOUS DHL CONTROVERSI AL MI LLENI AL YOUTH CULTURE REBELLI OUS SUSTAI NABLE GLOBAL
28-29: 30-31: 32-33: 34-35: 36-37: 38-39: 40-41: 42-43: 44-45: 46:
GRUNGE MATERI ALI STI C NI CHE SYMBLOI C URBAN EXCLUSI VE POLI TI CAL CONTRARI AN STARSTUDDED REFERENCES
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I NTRODUCTI ON Vet ement si saPar i s i anl abelf oundedi n2014byDemnaGvas al i a andhi sbr ot herGur am al ongs i deatl eas tf i veot heri ndi vi dual swho Gvas al i ameti nhi spr evi ousj obsatMai s onMart i nMar gi el aand Loui sVui t t onorpr evi ouscl as smat esatt heAcademyofFi neArt si n Ant wer p.However ,t heot hermember swi t hi nt het eam r emai n anonymouswhi c hmeansDemnaandhi sbr ot heractast hef acesof t hebr and. Thr oughoutt hi sr eportIhaveus edt he20x20met hodi nor dert o gai nabet t erunder s t andi ngoft hebr and.The20x20appr oac hhas hel pedmet ounder s t andt hecus t omerpr of i l e,mar ketl evelandt he mai nbr andi ndi ct or s . Or i gi nal l yf i ndi ngt hecus t omerpr of i l ef orVet ement swasext r emel y conf us i ng,duet of actt hey’ veonl ybeenar ounds i nce2014.If oundi t har dt oi dent i f yt het ar getmar ketbecaus eVet ement shaven’ tr eal l y es t abl i s hedwhot heywantt oai m at .If i r s tt ar get edt he‘ r i c hki dsof I ns t agr am’ ,andf oundt hem t obef ondf ol l ower sofVet ement s . However ,af t err es ear c hi ngf urt heri nt oVet ement sIf oundt hatt hey wer en’ tt heonl ycons umer s ,ast hey’ r eaverys mal lmar ket .The ‘ r i c hki dsofI ns t agr am’ar et heonest hatwal kar oundi nt hei r br andedr eadyt oweari t ems ,howevert heywer en’ tt hemar ketf or t hei rmor eedgyi t ems .
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If oundt hem t obewi t hi nt heMi l l enni almar ket ,whower ecl as s i f i ed as1835i n2015.Theyar eext r emel yconf i dent ,ci t yl i vi ng i ndi vi dual swhoar el ooki ngt omakeas t at ementt hr ought hei r cl ot hi ng. Vet ement sof f er sabr oad,di ver s epr oductl i newhi c hcons i s t sof edgy,uncutpi ecest hatar eal mos tal waysover s i zed.It hi nkoneof t her eas onst heymaket hei ri t emsbaggyandover s i zedi sduet ot he f actt hatoneoft hei rmai nt ouc hpoi nt si st hef actVet ement si s gender l es sandagel es s ,andt heover s i zedl ookcanbeut i l i zedonany gender ,bodys hapeorage.Thei t emsar ef ai r l ymi ni mal i s twi t hmos t oft hem bei ngbl oc kcol our swi t hs ubt l ebr andi ngt hr oughout .Des i gn el ement ss uc hasel ongat eds l eevesandr es t yl eddeni m ar e pr omi nentf eat ur esi nVet ement ss t apl ei t ems .Overt heyear s Vet ement shavepr oducedal i t anyofdi f f er entcol l abor at i onswi t h wel l es t abl i s hedbr ands uc hasTommyHi l f i ger ,Jui cyCout ur e,Levi s , DocMart ensandUmbr o,aswel lasmor eout l andi s hcol l abor at i on s uc hasDHL.Thes ebr andsar eal lext r emel ydi ver s e,whi c happeal s t oVet ement sni c heaudi ence. Vet ement sdoesnothaveaf l ags hi ps t or eanywher e,al loft hei r pr oduct sar es ol dt hr oughecommer ce,hi ghenddepart ments t or es andi nhous epopups hopsacr os st hegl obe.Ast hemaj or i t yi ss ol d onl i neatpl acess uc hasNet aPort er ,DoverSt r eetMar ketLondon andSSens et hi sal l owst hebr andt os aveonover headcos t sonr ent andpus hesexcl us i vi t yt oi t sni c heaudi ence.
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Vet ement ss t at est hatt heycr eat et het r end,i nt hei rFal l2018r evi ew Gvas al i a us edhi scol l ect i ont oconveyhi st hought sandf eel i ngsf orbot hwomenandmen. Theys t at et hathei sanagendas et t erwhoexpect st obecopi edwhenot her col l ect i onsf r om ot herl abel shos tt hei rcat wal ks .Vet ement scat wal kwasway aheadoft her es toft heFal l2018s howsasi twashel damont hpr i ort ot heot her s whi c hs t arti nFebruary. Vet ement smai nt oolf oradvert i s i ngi st heus eoft hes oci almedi apl at f orm, I ns t agr am.Thi si scompl et el ydi f f er entt oanyot herbr and,asOf fWhi t eus es manydi f f er entpl at f ormss uc hasTwi t t er ,Pi nt er es tandI ns t agr am,aswel las us i ngt hei rwebs i t emuc hmor eef f ect i vel yt hanVet ement sdoes .Vet ement sonl y us esi t swebs i t et or evi ew i t scol l ect i ons ,pr ovi del i nkst os t oc ki s t sandl i nkst oi t s I ns t agr am.Vet ement sus esI ns t agr am t oi nf orm i t saudi enceofupcomi ng col l abor at i ons ,cat wal ks howsandpopups t or es .I naddi t i on,t heyof t enpos t pi ct ur esoft hei rcat wal ks howsandl ookbooks hoot s .Theyar eoneoft heonl y br andst os ucces s f ul l ydot hi s ,asmanybr andscoul dn’ tj us tr el yont hes oci al medi apl at f orm ast hei ronl ywayofcommuni cat i ngwi t hi t scus t omer s .
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Vet ement smar ketpos i t i oni shar dt oes t abl i s hduet ot heaes t het i c oft hebr and,t heys el ls t r eet weari t emsatal uxurypr i ce,howeverI woul ds ayi t scompet i t or ss uc hasPal aceandSupr emes el lpr oduct s s i mi l art oVet ement sbutVet ement shaveamuc hhi gherpr i cepoi nt . Idon’ tt hi nkt heact ualpr oduct sVet ement spr oducear ewort ht he pr i ce,andt heonl yr eas onVet ement si scl as s i f i edasl uxuryi ss i mpl y downt ot hepr i cest heys et .I naddi t i on,DemnaGvas al i a,t heowner ofVet ement s ,s t at eshewoul dnotpayt hepr i ceshedemandseveni f hei saf as hi onf anat i c.Furt hermor e,l i ket woofi t smor ehi ghend compet i t or sOf fWhi t eandGos haRubc hi ns ki y,whoIbel i evear e t hei rmai ncompet i t i on,It hi nkt heycoul dal lbes eenasmi dway bet weeneverydays t r eet wearandl uxurywi t hs i mi l arpr i cepoi nt s .
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GOTHI C
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Whatmakesgot hi cs t yl i ngkeyt oVet ement ss ucces s ? It hi nkVet ement shasal wayscarr i edagot hi cel ementt oi t s col l ect i ons ,s i ncei t si ncept i oni nFal l2014wher emanyof t hei rs t yl edout f i t swer ebl ac kf r om headt ot oe.However ,t he got hi cel ementr eal l yt ookof fi nSpr i ng2016whent heybegan ut i l i s i ngt he‘ bl ac kl et t er ’s t yl ef ontbr andi ngVet ement sont he s l eevesoft hets hi rt swhi c hwer eot herwi s everybas i c.Thi s waswhenVet ement sf i r s ts t art edt omaket hei r‘ br anded’ cl ot hi ngwhi c hhass i ncebecomet hei rmos ts ought af t er pi eces .
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How doesVet ement sconveyar aw edgei nt hei rcol l ect i ons ? Vet ement sveryf i r s tcol l ect i onhel dar aw edgewhi c hwasconveyedi n t hei rdeni mj eanswhi c hal lhadunevenandr aw edgehemswhi c h l ookedl i ket heywer eunf i ni s hed,howevert hi sobvi ous l ywas n’ tt he cas e.Manyhi ghs t r eetbr andst hent ookt hi ss t yl e,f orexampl eH&M andcr eat edapai rt hatwer eat r i but et oVet ement s ’s el louts t yl e.Si nce t hen,t heyhavemadehoodi est hatl ookl i ket heyhavemi s al i gnedt he pat t ernandmadeboot swi t hf r ayedcuf f s .It hi nkt hi si soneoft hemai n t ouc hpoi nt sofVet ement s .
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ANDROGYNOUS
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Des pi t eVet ement sbei ngawomens wearbr and,whyi si ts o popul aramongs tmen? Fr om t heverybegi nni ngVet ement swascr eat edf orwomenands t i l li s ,however ot hert hant hei rf i r s tcol l ect i onmenar es eenont hecat wal ksmodel l i ngt he col l ect i onsdes pi t ecat er i ngf orwomenor i gi nal l y.Thebr andhasamal eaes t het i c,as s t at edbyDemnahi ms el fi nani nt er vi ew wi t hBoF,“ duet oouraes t het i ct hathasa verymas cul i neor i gi n,wehaveal otofmal ecus t omer st hatbuyourcl ot hes ,whi c h ar enotr eal l ymadef ormal ecus t omer s � .Thi scl ear l ymeanst hatmenar eenj oyi ng t hel ookoft hecl ot hi nges peci al l ywhent heys eef as hi oni conss uc hasKanyeWes t wear i ngVet ement sont hes t r eet s .
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DHL VET EMENT SXDHL CAPSUL ECOL L ECT I ON
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Whatdoest heDHLts hi rtmeant oVet ement s ? TheDHLts hi rtepi t omi s eseveryt hi ngt hatVet ement ss t andsf or ,It hi nki ts howst hatt heymake cl ot hest heyl i kenott hatt hef as hi oni ndus t ryi sgoi ngt oaccept .Des pi t et heugl yl ookoft hets hi rti t pr ovedt obeoneoft hei rmos ts ucces s f ulpi eceswhi c hdr ovet hei rf i r s twaveofs ucces swi t hi nt he i ndus t ryandcapt ur edmanyoft hei rl oyalcons umer s .I nanart i cl eonHi ghs nobi et y,Al eksEr or s t at edt hat“ TheDHLTs hi rt sl ookl i kes omet hi ngyourdadwasgi veni ns omePRgoodi ebagandnow onl ywear sar oundt hehous e.I t ’ ss uppos edt ol ooks oi ncr edi bl ybl as é,s oef f ort l es s l ycool ,wheni n f acti t ’ st heexactoppos i t e.Theyhaven’ tpi c kedabr andatr andom,t hey’ vet houghtt hr ought of i nd s omet hi ngt hati ns pi r esf eel i ngsofi r oni ci ndi f f er ence.Ser i ous ,coor di nat edt houghthasgonei nt o t hi s .Thi ss howst hatt heyverymuc hdocar eaboutbei ngcool ,andt akef as hi onverys er i ous l y. ”I t hi nkhepr et t ymuc hs umsupt hewhol eet hosbehi ndt het ee.
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CONTROVERSI AL 16
i t su gl ya ndt h a t s wh y we l i kei t
Whyi sVet ement sof t ens eenascont r over s i alwi t hi nt hef as hi on i ndus t ry? Vet ement swhol eobj ect i vei st or ej ectmai ns t r eam f as hi on,s t andoutf r om t hecr owdandpr oduce cl ot hi ngt hatappeal st oal l .I ti soneoft hef i r s tbr andst oadoptt heandr ogynousl ookwhi c hhas i nf l uencedmanyot herbr andst ot aket hi sl eap,ef f ect i vel yc hangi ngt hef as hi ons ys t em.Many peopl ei ncl udi ngf as hi oncr i t i csbel i evet hatVet ement scol l ect i onsar e‘ ugl y’ ,however ,ugl yi sexact l y whatt heywantt oac hi eve.Asopenl ys t at edbyDemna“ i t ’ sugl y,t hat ’ swhywel i kei t . ”( Hi gh Snobi et y2017) .Thi si swhyDHLwasc hos enasamus ef orVet ement sasIt hi nkduet ot heut i l i t ar i an f eeloft hecompanyi ti st hecompl et eoppos i t eofanys hr edoff as hi on.Anot hercont r over s i alar eai s cat wal ks ;Vet ement sc hoos et opl acet hei rcat wal ksi nunconvent i onall ocat i onss uc hasLeDepot ; Par i s ’f amousgaybar ,Gal er i esLaf ayet t e;adepart ments t or eandPaulBertSer pet t emar ket ,nort h ofPar i s .Choos i ngt hes el ocat i onsmakest hem s t andoutagai ns tt hei rcompet i t or sast hel ocat i ons ar eext r emel yout l andi s h.
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MI LLENI AL +
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Asayoungbr and,haveVet ement ses t abl i s hedacus t omerpr of i l e? Vet ement sent er edt hef as hi oni ndus t ryi n2014,meani ngi thasonl ybeenar oundf orunder4year s . Thi smeansi t ’ sverydi f f i cul tt oes t abl i s hacus t omerpr of i l ef orVet ement s ,es peci al l yi ns uc ha compet i t i veni c he.Ihavef oundi tt obemos tpopul aramongs tt heMi l l enni al s ,whoar ecl as s i f i edas aged1834i n2015.Ibel i evet hi st obecorr ectasVet ement sai mst os el lt oconf i denti ndi vi dual swho wantt omakeas t at ementands endames s age.Wi t ht hehi ghpr i cepoi ntofVet ement scl ot hi ng,i ti s obvi oust hatcons umer swi l lhaveal ar geamountofdi s pos abl ei ncomei nor dert opur c has e Vet ement sgarment s .I naddi t i on,It hi nkt heyar el i kel yt ol i vei naci t yandhavenoc hi l dr en,ast hi s woul dal l ow t hem t odowhatt heywantwi t ht hei rmoneyandef f ect i vel ygi vet hem t heopt i ont o wearwhatt heyl i ke.Li vi ngi naci t ygi vest hecons umermor eopt i onsast ohow t heywantt ol i ve t hei rl i f emaki ngt hem mor el i kel yt omakei mpul s edeci s i ons .
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YOUTH CULTURE
s t at usmat t er s
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WhatmadeVet ement ss opopul ars oqui c kl yandhow hast he yout hi nf l uencedt hi s ? I nmyopi ni on,Vet ement shasbecomes opopul arduet ot hes t at eoft hef as hi oni ndus t ryatt hemoment .Fas hi oni sl es s aboutdet ai landaut hent i ci t yandmor eaboutl et t i ngot her sknow aboutyours t at usi nt hef as hi onwor l dandwhatyou’ r e wear i ng.Everyt hi ngi sl abel l ed,andt hebr andi ngi sext r emel yappar ent .Byhavi ngbr andi ngt hati sobvi ous ,t hi s ef f ect i vel yal l owsVet ement st oadvert i s ewi t houtpayedadvert i s ement s .Duet opowerofs t r eets t yl eanyones eenwear i ng Vet ement scoul dpot ent i al l ybephot ogr aphedandputonwebs i t ess uc hasHypeBeas twhi c hhasmi l l i onsoff ol l ower s .Thi s l eadsmeont ot he‘ r i c hki dsofI ns t agr am’ .Thes eyoungf ol l ower sar eheavi l yi nf l uencedbys oci almedi aandf as hi on.They s i mpl yweart hebr andsbecaus et heyar epopul arr egar dl es sofpr i cepoi ntorhow t heyt hi nkt hecl ot hesl ook.Theyf ound Vet ement sduet ot heout l andi s hcol l abor at i onwi t hDHL,t hef amousts hi rtt hatr et ai l edf or£185s ol douti nevery r et ai l erveryqui c kl yandnow r es el l sf or£300+ .Thets hi rtwaspr omi nentacr os sal ls oci almedi aandcompl et el ybl ew up t hei ndus t ry.Anexampl eoft hi si sgul l yguyl eo,wi t haf ol l owi ngof532K at15year sol dhei sf as tbecomi ngaf as hi on i nf l uencer .Thi ss t art edoutwi t hhi m pos t i ng‘ hyped’out f i t sonI ns t agr am.Peopl eappr oac hhi m andt el lhi mt hatt hey l ookt ohi m asaf as hi oni ns pi r at i on,t hi ss howst hatf as hi ondoeshaveacul t i s tmovementandt hatt heyoungergener at i on ar edr i vi ngt hi s .Theydonotcar ef orpr i cepoi nt s ,asl ongasi ti sheavi l ybr andedandwi l lgi vet hem ahi ghers t at ust han t hei rf r i endst hey’ l lpayt hepr i ce.Ef f ect i vel yt heyar epayi ngf orr eact i on,notowner s hi p.
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REBELLI OUS
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How ar eVet ement sr ebel l i ngagai ns tt hef as hi oni ndus t ryt oday? It hi nkVet ement s ’i sr ebel l i ousbecaus eoft hewayt heyar ec hal l engi ngt hef as hi oni ndus t ry.They bel i evet hatt her ei snor el at i ons hi pbet weent hecr eat i vevi s i onandt hecommer ci alvi s i onandt hat t hi scr eat esanunbal ancedr el at i ons hi pbecaus et hemar ketdi ct at eswhatcr eat i vi t yneedt odo,i n or dert os el l( BoF2016) .I naddi t i ont ot hi s ,t hei ndus t ryrunsats uc haqui c kpacei nor dert okeep t hecl i ent sengaged.Howevert hi squi c kpacednat ur ewi t ht hepr ecol l ect i on,pr epr ecol l ect i onand mai ncol l ect i oni swhys omuc hs t uf fendsupons al e.Demnas t at es“ r eadyt oweari s ,whi c hi st he pl at f orm andt hebas eoff as hi on,i sr eal l yi nt hes hadow t oday,wi t haf ew except i ons ” .I nor dert o combatt hi si s s ue,t heyar er ebel l i ngagai ns tt henormsandf r om t heverys t artagr eedt oonl y pr oducet wocol l ect i onsayear .Anot herbr anddoi ngt hi si sBur berry( Cont i2016) ,whoar ewor ki ng t opr oducet wocol l ect i onsayearandmaki ngt hes eavai l abl et ocons umer ss t r ai ghtaf t ert he cat wal k.Vet ement st wocol l ect i onswoul dbes hownout s i det hemai ns eas onanddur i ngt he pr ecol l ect i ont i mi ng( JuneandJanuary) .
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SUSTAI NABI LI TY Ev er yonei saf r ai d ofadmi t t i ngt hat t heymakemor e c l ot hest hant hey c ans el l .
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Whatar eVet ement sdoi ngt oens ur et heyar eas us t ai nabl ebr and? Vet ement sar ecurr ent l ycal l i ngoutt hef as hi oni ndus t ryonover pr oduct i on.I nanat t emptt or ai s eawar enes s overt hi si s s uet heyhavepai r edupwi t hHarr odsandhavef ourwi ndows .Thes ef ourwi ndowswi l lbeus edt o di s pl aydonat edcl ot heswhi c hwi l lf orm a‘ mount ai n’ofcl ot hi ng.Themount edcl ot hesr epr es entmas s pr oduct i onandcons equent l yi t sunneces s arys t r ai nonr es our ces .It hi nkt hatt hi sr epr es ent st her eas onbehi nd Vet ement sexcl us i vi t yandt her eas ont heymaket hei rcol l ect i onss ol i mi t ed.I naddi t i on,It hi nkt hi si sal s owhy t heyar es oagai ns tt hei ri t emsgoi ngons al ebecaus et hi smeanst hei rpr oduct shavebeenover pr oduced.I nt hei r mos tr ecentcol l ect i on( AW18) ,manyoft hemodel sar es eenwear i ngmul t i pl el ayer sofcl ot hi ngwhi c h s ymbol i s escus t omer ’ sover cons umpt i onwi t hi nt hef as hi oni ndus t ry.Thi scoul dbeas us t ai nabl eand ecof r i endl yr oadf orVet ement sandcoul dr es ul ti nas ol i dbr andas s oci at i onandef f ect i vel yaUSPf ort hebr and.
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GLOBAL
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How doesVet ement sens ur ei t spr oduct sar es ol dgl obal l y? Vet ement st ar get scons umer sgl obal l ywhi c hmeansi ti svi t alt heycanpr ovi depr oduct st o cus t omer sal lovert hewor l d,bot honl i neandi ns t or e.I nor dert odos o,Vet ement shaveal l ocat ed s t oc ki s t si nmanycount r i esacr os st hegl obes uc has ,Harr odsandDoverSt r eetMar keti nLondon, whi c har eal s oonl i nes t oc ki s t sf ort hebr and.TheAl c hemi s t ,Mi ami ;LaGar conne,New Yor kand MonaMoor e,Cal i f orni aar eal lUSs t or eswhi c hs t oc kVet ement saswel laspr ovi di ngt heonl i ne opt i onaswel l .I nAs i a,t hebr andi ss t oc kedi nCl ub21,Thai l and;Boont hes hop,Seoulandt her ewas apopups t or ei nHongKongi nNovember2017.Ther ear es ever als t or esl ocat edi nEur opes uc has TheBr okenArm,Par i sandLui s avi ar oma,Fl or ence.I naddi t i onVet ement sal s of eat ur esi nKM20, Mos cow.
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GRUNGE
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How doesVet ement scr eat eagrungyaes t het i c? ‘ Grunge’i sas t yl eoff as hi oni nf l uencedbyt hemus i cgenr econs i s t i ngofbaggy,t orn andf adedcl ot hi ng.Vet ement scl ot hi ngi spr edomi nant l ybaggyandover s i zedwi t h muc hoft hei rFal l2018col l ect i onbei ngj us tt hat ,t heyus epet i t emodel st hatal s o maket hei t emsl ookext r emel yover s i zed.I naddi t i on,Vet ement swer et hebr andt hat s t art edt hebol ds houl derpadl ook.Ass t at edear l i erwi t hi nAndr ogynous ,model s Vet ement sus eappeart ocarryagrungyappear ance,wi t hf eat ur ess uc hass haven headsorhai rl ongenought opas st hei rs t omac h.
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MATERI ALI STI C
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DoesVet ement scont r i but et omat er i al i s m? It hi nkVet ement si sext r emel ymat er i al i s t i c,es peci al l yt hei rr eadyt owearcol l ect i on.Thef actt hat Vet ement smos ts ucces s f ulpi ecesar eal lheavi l ybr andedandeas i l yi dent i f i abl es howst hatt hi si s whatt heyai mt owar ds ,andt hi si swhatt hei rcons umerwant s .Thei rt ar getcons umerwant st os how t heyhaveahi ghf as hi ons t at usandwear i ngVet ement sal l owst hem t odos o.I naddi t i on,peopl ewi l l wearVet ement ss i mpl ydownt ot hef acti thass uc hhi ghpr i cepoi nt swhi c hmakest hem appear weal t hy.
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NI CHE
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HasVet ement sf oundani c hei nt hemar ket ? Vet ement soper at esi nani c hebecaus ei tact sasahi ghends t r eet wearbr andandi s i ndi vi duali ncompar i s ont oot herhi ghendbr andss uc hasGi venc hyandMai s onMart i n Mar gi el a.I ti spr obabl yt heonl ybr andt hati sal luni s excl ot hi ng,notas i ngl ei t em i s cl as s i f i edaswomens wearormens wear .I nt hewor l dofl uxuryf as hi on,Vet ement si s wi del ycons i der edast heonl yc hoi cef ors omeonel ooki ngt or ebelwhi l s ts t i l lwear i ng hi ghendf as hi on.
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SYMBOLI C
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WhatdoesVet ement ss ymbol i ze? It hi nkVet ement si sext r emel ys ymbol i ci nt ermsoft hef ol l owi ngf act or s : - Weal t h:Vet ement shasahi ghpr i cepoi nts opeopl ewi l li nves tt os how t heyhavemoney,eveni ft hey donot .Bys pendi ng£500+onats hi rt ,i twi l lmaket hem appeart ohaveal ar geamountofdi s pos abl e i ncome. - St at us :Vet ement scangai nyous t at uswi t hi nf r i ends hi pgr oupsandpeer s .Ascl ot hi ngi shugewi t hi n Gener at i onZbei ngs eenwear i ngaVet ement si t em cannow gai nyout hous andsoff ol l ower sons oci al medi aaswel lasf r i endsands oci als t at us . - Mes s ages :Peopl ewhoar econf i dentandwantt ocarrymes s ageswi t hi nwhatt heywearwi l lof t en wearVet ement sast heyof t enpr i ntmes s agesont hei rcl ot hi ng,s uc has“ YOUFUCK’ NASSHOLE”ona gr eyj umperand“ SEXUALFANTASI ES”onbl ac kt r ac ks ui tpant sbot hf eat ur edi nt hei rFal l2016 col l ect i on.Thes emes s agesar eof t enpr ovocat i veorcont r over s i al ,t hi sf urt herr ef l ect sont he r ebel l i ousnat ur eoft hebr andandt hewear ermaywantt os how t hi s .
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URBAN
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Coul dVet ement sbecons i der edasur ban? It hi nkt hef actt hatVet ement scarr i esas t r eet wearel ementaut omat i cal l ygi vesi tan ur banf eel .I naddi t i on,t heVet ement st ar getmar ketl i veandwor ki nci t i eswhi c hmeans t heyt endt odr es si nanur banki ndofway,wi t ht he“ s t r eet wear �edge.Peopl ewhoi nves t i nVet ement swantt obes een,t heyar eof t enconf i dentwi t ht hei rs t yl eandwantt obei n cl os epr oxi mi t yt oot herpeopl e.Hencef ort h,t hi si swhymanypeopl ei nci t i esweari tas t heywi l lbes eengi vi ngi tanur banedge.
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EXCLUSI VE
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Whyi sexcl us i vi t ykeyf orVet ement ss ucces s ? Iper s onal l ybel i evet her eas onbehi ndVet ement ss ucces si show excl us i ve t heymaket hei ri t ems .Thei deat hatt hei ri t emsar er el eas edonceand onl yacert ai namountar er el eas edexci t est hecus t omerandmakest he i t emsext r emel ys oughtaf t er .Thi shasbeens ucces s f ul l yr epl i cat edby ot herbr andss uc hasSupr emeandPal aceSkat eboar ds ,t hes ear eal s o Vet ement skeycompet i t or s .Fr om acons umer spoi ntofvi ew,mi s s i ngout onadr oponl ymakest hem mor edet ermi nedt opur c has es omet hi ngon t henextr el eas er at hert hanpayi ngt heext ort i onat es econdarymar ket .
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POLI TI CAL
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How hasVet ement saf f ect edpol i t i cs ? DemnaGvas al i agr ew upi nt heSovi eter awher ef r ees peec hwasl ookeddownuponandeveryone’ s l i f es t yl ewasext r emel yr egi ment ed.I nmyopi ni on,It hi nki ti soneoft hekeyr eas onst owhy Vet ement ss endsoutdi f f er entmes s agest hr ought hei rcl ot hi ng.Oneoft hekeypol i t i cals t at ement s t heymadewast hr ought hehoodi edi s pl ayi ngt heEur opeanUni onf l agont hebac k,t hi swasVet ement s wayofs ayi ngt hatt heys upportt heEU.Thei rmos tpol i t i calcol l ect i ont odat ei st heAW17wher eby Vet ement sbr oughtoutanarr ayofmodel swear i ng‘ uni f orms ’t oi mi t at es t er eot ypess uc has ;a bouncer ,apunk,as ol di er ,as ecr et ary,apens i oner ,ahomel es smanandabour geoi sl ady.I twasaway f orVet ement st os how t hepowerofi dent i t yanddi ver s i t y,asal loft hes er ol eswer es ucces s f ul l y i dent i f i edandbehi ndal loft hem ames s agewasport r ayed–wes houl dn’ thavet oconf orm t os oci al r ol es .
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CONTRARI AN
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Whyi sVet ement sr ej ect i ngmai ns t r eam f as hi on? Vet ement si sugl y.I nt heeyesofmanypeopl e,t hei rcl ot hi ngi s n’ tpr et t y ordes i r abl ei nanyway,t hei rwei r dpat t erns ,cut sands t yl esar es oout t her eandwhi ms i cal .Thei rcl ot hi ngi st heoppos i t et owhatmai ns t r eam f as hi onas ksf or ,s ymmet ryandpr oport i on.Oneoft her eas onst hat Vet ement ss t andsoutf r om t hemai ns t r eam off as hi oni sbecaus ei ts et s outt obeugl y.Manyf i ndt hei rpi ecesr epul s i vebutf ort heVet ement s cons umer st hi smakest hegarment sexcl us i veandevenmor eappeal i ng. Convent i onalpeopl ej us tdonotunder s t andt hi smi nds et .
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STARSTUDDED
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WhyhaveVet ement samas s edahi ghpr of i l ef ol l owi ngof s t r eet wears t ar s ? KanyeWes ti soneoft hewal ki ngf acesf orVet ement sEvers i ncei t sdebuti n2014,Kanyehasbeen r avi ngaboutt hePar i s i anr eadyt owearl abel .Asdecl ar edbyf as hi oni s t a. com “ I ft her e’ sanyonewho KanyeWes tl ovesasmuc hasKanyel ovesKanyei t ’ sDemnaGvas al i a. ”Hehasbeens eens port i nga numberofVet ement si t emss uc hast hei coni c$800got hi cl ogohoodi eandagr eenbomberj ac ket . Sel enaGomezi sanot herAl i s t ert oj umpont ot hei rl abel ,t hemos tpopul arl ooki st hebr i ghtr ed Vet ement sX Champi onhoodi eandt r ous er swhi c hs hewor ecat c hi ngaf l i ghtf r om LAX.Thes eAl i s t f ansactasf r eeadvert i s ementf orVet ement sasof t ent heypos tpi ct ur esont hei rs oci almedi a,whi c h Vet ement sr epos twhi c ht henef f ect i vel yget ss eenbyhundr edsoft hous andsofpeopl e!.
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