Creative HEAD Ireland June/July 2016 by Alfol Publishing

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lo r s co

lo r s

Styling

lor

Color

Shape

co lor

Care

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PIGMENTS colours everything.

The number one choice for salon owners in Ireland

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Editor’s letter

22 18

WE HAVE OUR eyes firmly facing the future this issue – take a look at our bonding feature (page 30) to discover how these revolutionary additives are empowering salons, offering them the chance to deliver amazing colour to clients via an addon service that’s great for profit margins as well. Another area to build great sales is electrical retail, and it’s an ever-moving landscape of innovation. Check out our update on all the tools of the trade (which consumers can take home too) from page 34. And who will be our first Irish winners of Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted Awards? We reveal the 10 finalists in the Supreme Team and Exceptional Stylist categories – if only we had a crystal ball! We’ll just have to wait until 5 September – see the line-up on page 28 and see if you can predict the future winners! Have a great summer…

Annette O’Meara Editor

annette@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 04

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July/August 2016

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BONDING

We explore the newest innovation in hair technology – the hair additive that prevents breakage during colouring

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ON THE COVER

16/06/2016 13:34

Hair and make-up by the London Saco Academy, directed by Richard Ashforth for Alfaparf Milano

46 FASHION

The Charles Worthington Creative Team go on a ’70s inspired odyssey

TOOLS

The latest and greatest tools for your salon and retail

EDITOR ANNETTE O’MEARA ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

CONTRIBUTORS BETH DAVIE ANNA SAMSON ADVERTISING ANNETTE O’MEARA LAURA TUCKER

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SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD Ireland JOANNA ANDERSEN EDITOR IN CHIEF AMANDA NOTTAGE PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD Magazine

6-9 Trinity Street Dublin 2 01 617 7947 annette@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

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The edit HEAT DAMAGE IS BECOMING KEY CONCERN FOR FEMALE CLIENTS MORE THAN THREE-FIFTHS of women aged 16 to 24, and 50 per cent of all women who use haircare products, have limited their use of heat appliances in the past 12 months for fear of damaging their hair, according to new research by Mintel. A further 34 per cent of all women washed their hair less frequently for the same reason, and 22 per cent bought or used an electrical tool that claimed to be less damaging to hair. The research also revealed women are showing increased interest in products that can limit damage, with 25 per cent of women investing in scalp protecting products. Valerie Finnegan Cahill, owner of Ikon Hair Design in Cork city, has seen a noticeable shift to products that are less damaging. She said: “It’s due to a greater awareness of products; their ingredients and the negative affect some products can have on your hair. We also believe that new styling trends tend to minimise the use of irons and so on, which is good.” Valerie’s salon has always used heat protective sprays when styling, ensuring that her clients are quite savvy when it comes to protecting their hair from heat. She added: “We find with trends moving from sleek straight hair to a more textured look, our clients are less dependent on irons.” Dylan Bradshaw, owner of Dylan Bradshaw in Dublin, agreed that clients are definitely concerned with the possible damage they could be doing to their hair. He said: “That’s why we work with our clients on cuts suitable to their hair type to ensure they can adapt a ‘less is more’ approach to styling, working with the hair’s natural state so that there isn’t a need for excessive heat use.”

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The 2016 Most Wanted judging day in London

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

IRISH SALONS MAKE MOST WANTED CUT

THE SHORTLIST HAS been announced and 10 finalists from Ireland will be heading to the Most Wanted 2016 Grand Final in London. Presented by comedian Rob Beckett, the awards celebrate creative skills and business excellence in the hairdressing industry and this year – for the first time ever – two categories are open to Ireland: Supreme Team and Exceptional Stylist.

The entries were assessed in June and one of the many industry stars invited to judge was Mark Woolley, creative director of Electric Hairdressing. “It was great to be judging a category for the Republic of Ireland,” said Mark, who was on the Supreme Team judging panel. “I loved the heartfelt passion that came across in the entries.” For a full list of finalists and ticket details, turn to page 28

DUO OPEN UP DUBLIN SPACE LIFELONG FRIENDS Nadine Quinn and Carla McQuillan have opened a new salon called The Space in Dublin’s Drumcondra. Nadine is a former Peter Mark educator who’s worked at London, Paris and New York Fashion Weeks, while Carla is a well established session stylist who’s worked in New York and Sydney, and was creative director for House of Colour for 10

years. The salon was created with more than just beauty in mind. Nadine explained: “Our desire is to make others not only look completely beautiful, but also inspire the idea that lasting beauty is developed from within. We believe that all authentic creativity has its origin in the soul.” The Space plans to host regular events like yoga workshops, art classes and poetry readings.

17/06/2016 13:25

#CHedit

LIZZY JAGGER TO BECOME REDKEN HAIR MUSE US HAIRCARE GIANT Redken has added model, actress and producer Lizzy Jagger as its newest brand muse. Lizzy joins a Redken roster that includes Suki Waterhouse, Amber Le Bon and global creative director Guido. Shane Wolf, global general manager of Redken, said: “Her signature, striking red hair and unique style epitomises the Redken spirit. She represents a modern approach to beauty that’s confident and enviable.” Lizzy said of the move: “I am honoured and excited to be joining the Redken family. I had such an amazing time shooting with the brand and absolutely love any time I get to work with Guido.” She will make her Redken debut in September for the launch of New Heatcure Professional, an exclusive salon service that instantly restores the look and feel of damaged hair for up to 10 washes. She will also be featured in the relaunch of Redken’s Heat Styling collection, which provides lasting protection and allows hair to be restyled again and again.

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AHEAD

What summer has in store for… CIARA DONNINGTON

WAYNE LLOYD HAIR

I’ve been organising a lot of training as the salon runs educational courses every Monday for our own staﬀ and outside salons. These courses run in conjunction with Alfaparf and include colour, cutting and upstyling. We also work with the local Mercy Hospital Foundation in Cork city. We send a stylist and a trainee to oﬀer patients complimentary haircuts and blow-drys.

AUDREY BROWNE

HAIR BY AUDREY

Training is on the agenda for the summer as my newest member of staﬀ, Melaina, is doing a course in Dublin. In a bid to encourage businesses to upgrade shopfronts, Kildare County Council is oﬀering grants to all the local shops to revamp their exteriors, so we’re participating in that scheme. And I’m getting married on 26 August!

MATRIX IRELAND SET TO MOVE TO DIRECT MODEL MATRIX IRELAND HAS decided to move away from a distribution model and service customers directly in order to provide higher service levels, new product launches and free education. The popular US brand aims to provide customers with its unique one tube colour range, and hopes to offer attractive cost per application, unlimited colour results and education it says will both inspire and excite hairdressers. Mark Cullen, commercial manager for Matrix Ireland, said: “This is an exciting time for the brand and we look forward to really working with all our customers to help develop and grow their business and develop a real business partner approach to providing services for clients. “We will also have, for the first time in Ireland, regional education academies to offer salons a unique education offering in their region.”

MY months

ANDREW MCELROY

ANDREW MCELROY HAIR CONCEPTS

SWEETIE DAHLING!

Raise a glass of Bolly – ghd has been revealed as the stylers behind those legendary hair looks from Patsy and Edina in the upcoming summer blockbuster, Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie. The partnership between these two iconic names will launch the ghd summer sale, offering €25 off most ghd tools until 31 July.

We’ve just won the Phorest Client Satisfaction Award for 2016 so we’re pretty chuﬀed about that. One of my stylists, Shauna, is about to start her master colour degree with Alfaparf and I’m just back from the Alfaparf international hair show in Sicily. We’re also currently planning a fashion shoot to showcase our autumn/winter collection.

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17/06/2016 13:25

The 8000

The Balance Light

The Lavasit Comfort

Unit 7f Ardcavan Business Park Ardcavan Wexford T: 053 9123681 M: 087 2547112

THE BUSINESS EDIT SALON PRICING DO SALONS DISCRIMINATE BASED ON GENDER? IN LIGHT OF a recent BBC Identity campaign – which included a piece on salons charging different prices for the same services for men and women – the spotlight has turned on owners and managers to consider their pricing, and what message it may convey. In Ireland, many agree that women are still charged more, based on an historic price model reflected on time spent in the chair, as Joe Hayes, senior stylist with Toni&Guy at Dublin’s Clarendon Street, admits. “The gender imbalance is historic and I don’t think it’s ever going to change. “If it did, as a stylist I would want the pricing to increase for male to female prices – rather than prices falling. A cut for a man is about 60 per cent of the price for a female client. That’s because historically gents were quicker and easier in-salon,” he explains. “But with the rise in male grooming, the gents are

RISING STAR

NAME Dave Long AGE 25 SALON Preen, Dublin 2

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WHEN DID YOU REALISE THAT YOU WANTED TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I wanted to be a hairdresser from the age of 14. I started work at a small local salon in Mullingar called Yeates Hair Design. I started where everyone starts – sweeping the floor, cleaning the salon, making myself useful and being lovely to clients. I always

no longer quicker and they’re quite aware of what they want. I think women clients have more realistic expectations about the service for the price. In comparison, I find male clients have high expectations that don’t necessarily match the price.” In addition, with the rise in high-end barbers, Joe believes that salons need to be competitive on price: “Even though we offer a slightly different service, the reality is that we have to compete with them.” Katherine Sweeney, owner of Preen, believes that over time the gap between what women and men pay may decrease, but it will be a gradual process. “It’s worth bearing in mind that we have just about come out of an economic recession, so most salon owners wouldn’t even have considered a price increase in any services over the past few years. It’s only now that things have started to improve economically that confidence in business is being restored,” she explains. “Another aspect of the ‘gender gap’ is that barbers have seriously upped their game in recent years and there are some highly-skilled and well-trained barbers out there that are charging up to 50 per cent less than most salons. “This is something I have to take into consideration when pricing men’s services at Preen. Even a woman’s haircut that is short takes longer unless you are using clippers, which I would never use on a female client.” Katherine also feels women clients’ haircuts are more stylised, change more frequently and use more products. “It’s more of a pampering experience for most women – they want time taken over their hair and they want to know how to style it and look after it at home, it’s more of a social event. “And although men’s awareness in hair and beauty is increasing, I still feel having a haircut is something else to cross off the list for them. I’m not suggesting men don’t enjoy coming to the salon or that they don’t care about their hair, but for them it is not so much of an experience as a necessity.”

enjoyed the interaction with them and still do. I began taking classes during the week to gain more knowledge and found I had a real knack for it. WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU’VE LEARNED? You can make anyone beautiful and totally change their look with clever cutting and colour techniques,

patience, charisma and confidence. Another important lesson is that you must listen to the client and learn as much as you can; then you are able to cut and style their hair in a way that suits their personality. WHO’S YOUR HAIR HERO? That has to be the one and only Vidal Sassoon. He was an industry pioneer and the ultimate hairdresser. I have a

serious love for clean lines, precision and symmetry and he was the master of precision. WHAT’S YOUR ULTIMATE AMBITION? It’s to be as successful as my boss, Katherine Sweeney! She has created a great salon with a fabulous atmosphere. I aim to have a successful career and maybe even my own salon one day.

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17/06/2016 12:37

INSPIRE ENVY Indulge your clients with world-renowned, 100% human hair extensions from the experts at Great Lengths. Find out how to become a Great Lengths certified stylist at greatlengthshair.co.uk/become-a-certified-stylist

GR EATLENGTHSH A IR.CO.U K

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Topman image courtesy of Fudge Professional

This is where our first EVER Irish Most Wanted finalists will be spending a fabulous evening! Visit creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted to see whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s joining us for the Grand Final at London Guildhall

All the latest on the awards event of 2016, presented by comedian Rob Beckett

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Catch up with all the hottest grooming looks fresh off the LC:M runways

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Lose yourself in our collaboration with Mark Woolley and Charlotte Cave

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LIFE LESSONS PAUL DAVEY, CO-OWNER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR, DAVEY DAVEY SALONS, DUBLIN The most important thing I’ve learned is you need passion. Careers thrive with passion; I think when people are a little undecided if they want to go into hairdressing, it can determine if they will be successful stylists – if you’re going to do something, do it 100 per cent. A people person always does well in this business; marry that with a creative ability and you could be amazing. You sometimes get creative types who are not great with people and don’t build clientele; or you get someone who has great people skills and a big clientele, but is not as creative. A combination is key. My philosophy is that breakthroughs only happen with consistent repetition. To learn something you have to practise – whether it’s learning your craft, achieving a goal or becoming a good stylist – consistent experience is essential. Our assistants have a class once a week and they observe during the week in-salon. When they learn something in class, they get to practise it 10 times during the week. This repetition means they learn and develop more quickly and become stronger stylists. Look after customers and customers will look after you. My goal is to deliver an incomparable customer service delivered by well-trained staff. Our main objective is always service; you can have a lovely setting in your salon, but with bad customer service people will never come back. You have to meet and exceed expectations. For hairdressers starting out, my advice is to work in a salon that has a good training structure. I wouldn’t waste a minute during training – always give classes your full attention, learn from week to week and develop a strategy where you can practise in between. Hairdressing is about experience; the more you get, the quicker you learn. Our ambitions are to keep building a brand. I trained with Toni&Guy in Dublin and had been a hairdresser for 20 years before my brother Ian and I started Davey Davey. I truly believe that businesses survive but brands thrive – our plan is to have a one-stop shop with everything available in-house, including our own branded tools and affordable luxury products.

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French Girl Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART promises the effortless chic of Parisian women across all hair types. Messy Cliché is a texture spray and French Froissé is a pliable cream that captures French style.

Take the party anywhere with d:fi, the relaunched range from Revlon Professional Brands that’s all about finished looks that last the whole night through.

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The Davines More Inside Shine Wax is perfect for a polished, textured look with no excess residue for a sleek, glossy and lightweight finish.

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STYLE CLOSE-UP

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Mythic Oil luxury cream from L’Oréal Professionnel is enriched with nourishing fairtrade argan oil and soothing almond oil.

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Repair-Me from Kevin. Murphy is a three-part system that uses naturally derived super-food proteins and fruit enzymes to restore hair. We love Repair-Me.Wash with bamboo protein and silk amino acids.

This summer Kérastase launches a game changing concept in styling: Kérastase Couture Styling L’Incroyable Blowdry. A reshapeable heat lotion, it provides optimal shapeability and pliability – without reapplying or stiffness.

RRP FROM €23 021 4217482 nationalbeauty.ie

RRP €25

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Alfaparf’s Solarium range nourishes and protects hair from UVA/UVB rays, salt and chlorine, perfect for the summer holidays.

RRP FROM €13.50 045 856490 xpertpro.ie

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Go bold with the Rock Candy collection from Joico’s Color Intensity line – intensely concentrated pigments are spot on for over-the-top hues that last about 15 washes.

RRP FROM €8.50 045 856490 xpertpro.ie

The Kérastase Densifique Homme range is perfect for male clients concerned about thinning hair, Bain Densité Homme is a caring shampoo and Baume Densité Homme texturising paste adds oomph.

RRP FROM €19.90 01 6045918 kerastase.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

17/06/2016 12:50

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

LAUNCH OF THE SUMMER

FOR IRELAND’S masses of fine-haired clients, volume is number one on the “hair wants” list. So welcome the all-new volume superheroes from Bed Head by TIGI, putting the power of big and bold right into your (and their) hands. The Fully Loaded range features Uploader technology in its Massive Volume Shampoo, giving hair ‘volume memory’ as it’s blow-dried, so that the volume created is remembered throughout the day. The Volumizing Conditioning Jelly swells hair, while Big Head Volume Boosting Foam and Full Of It Volume Finishing Spray boosts volume even more then sets it in place. Big is better, so #MAKEITMASSIVE.

RRP FROM €15.95 1890 812022 bedhead.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... DRY SHAMPOO

Moroccanoil Dry Shampoo is designed to dissipate instantly, absorbing oil and product build-up without leaving behind a dull, chalky residue. Enhanced with natural volumising agents, it provides hair with immediate purification and a more manageable style. It also contains a UV filter and comes in two formulas: for brunettes and blondes.

Shu Uemura Art of Hair’s New Dry Cleaner is a 2-in-1 dry shampoo that gently absorbs oils and impurities at the roots whilst moisturising dry lengths and ends. Formulated with absorbing agents that eliminate excess sebum and a light conditioning base that nourishes, hair is left clean and lightweight to the touch with no residue.

RRP €19.90 045 856490

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RRP €27

17/06/2016 12:50

e d i s In story CALLAN & CO. BALLSBRIDGE, DUBLIN

The concept behind Paula Callan’s new salon was simple – it should look like a hotel, feel like a spa but be a full-service beauty space that includes hair, nails, make-up and tanning – and that’s exactly what she’s achieved. “I wanted the reception area to feel like the lobby of a luxury hotel,” explains Paula, owner and creative director. “Women can feel intimidated walking into a salon and I wanted to take all the busy stuff away and put it behind closed doors.” The lobby is the hub of the salon, a space that’s a mix of contemporary and luxury style where you hang out until your treatment. “I love chrome and gold, and I wanted it to have that rich look and feel to it, but mixed with a utility or urban vibe – so we used mixed luxurious metallics with wrought iron,” explains Paula. The salon fit was a family affair with Paula’s dad completing all the woodwork, her partner doing the electrics and the overall vision overseen by interior designer Kari Rocca.

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CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

17/06/2016 11:46

#CHedit

HOT BUYS DESIGN HERO

THE MASTER

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This Olymp LavaSit Bond is a shampooing unit with synchronous seat and back adjustment. There’s a deep tilting basin in black or white and it’s the winner of this year’s German Design Council German Design Award Special.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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The free-standing Olymp HairMaster hood dryer assists with dyeing, tinting, perms and colour extensions. It has an LCD display, control dial, quickstart function, colour and perm diagnostic programme and an infrared sensor for temperature.

17/06/2016 13:42

Photography by 93ft.com

BIG IDEA

LAUNDRY CAFE

SHEFFIELD SALON Laundry, the UK Most Wanted Best New Salon of 2014, is already a firm favourite with stylish South Yorkshire folk. But co-founder Mitchell Wilson has never looked at his shop as just a salon, and to prove it he’s opened Laundry Cafe with his co-founder Nick Clark from design agency 93ft. So what, you might think; other salons have little coffee spots inside? But this is no tiny table for a tea cup – the front-ofhouse section has been completely transformed. This is a 20-seat space offering Climpson & Sons coffee, artisan tea from Teapigs and Libby Limon cold press juice to entice customers in. “Coffee is an important part of our brand now. We use it for client loyalty and to drive business,” explains Mitchell. “We offer one free beverage per service to clients, then we have a variety of loyalty options based on spend and frequency of visits. These are constantly evolving, but we try to aim them at getting new people in the door, such as free coffee for three friends. The cafe is a good place to come and check out the salon as some people find it pretty scary going to a new hairdresser.” Coffee cups are designed and branded, as are the juice bottles. And not only are the cold presses super tasty, they will also help encourage brighter eyes, stronger hair and glowing skin. Ours is a Root Juice please! Oh, and maybe a slice of cake, too...

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CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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#CHedit

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Scene

MORE THAN 150 Irish salon owners and stylists came to the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin to hear inspirational speakers at the 2016 TIGI Colour Tour and witness the brand’s latest innovations. Speakers included TIGI president Tom Monaghan; international creative director Anthony Mascolo, TIGI zone director Phil Cheadle, global technical creative director Christel Lundqvist, and Mark O’Keeffe, managing director of Sugar Culture. Christel showcased TIGI copyright©olour’s Customised Collection Blondes with a practical demonstration and show. “We were delighted to have had the opportunity to meet so many hairdressers at every venue,” said Anthony. “The way the tour was organised enabled us to spend time with salon owners and their team members at every event and this gave us a rare chance to talk personally, answering any questions hairdressers might have about our brands and TIGI education.”

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Mark O’Keeffe

SHOW TIME

Christel Lundqvist

Kerrie O’Reilly

Piero Gentile

THE HOTTEST EVENTS AROUND – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

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Tom Monaghan

Phil Cheadle

Warren Boodaghians

Akos Bodi

Anthony Mascolo

Maria Kovacs

Sharon Dale

DRY ICE

MOROCCANOIL TOOK its roadshow to Dublin to promote its first-ever dry shampoo, freshly launched into Ireland. The showcase offered almost 100 stylists and salon owners an opportunity to see the product in action, as Sharon Dale and hairdressers from the Moroccanoil Creative Team used Moroccanoilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s products to create innovative looks on live models. Guests were then invited to ask questions and even get up on stage and do a little experimenting themselves. Held at Dublinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Smock Alley, the event was hosted by David Donnellan, managing director of Xpert Professional, which distributes the brand in Ireland.

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Alison Cooney Kelly Durkin

Laura Bell CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Anne Veck and Sandra Perovic

The UK & Ireland ProMasters team

A FRENCH

affair

THE UK & IRELAND CELEBRATED an incredible double victory in Paris in front of a 4,500-strong audience from 60 countries, including a strong Irish contingent, at the Revlon Professional Style Masters Show 2016. It was the cherry on top of a stunning event that featured a rock and rollicking display from American Crew; lovely peeks at seasonal colour trends and a beautiful Shape-APorter presentation. But the spotlight was firmly on the UK & Ireland, the guest countries chosen to take to the stage for the closing show, with a Game of Thrones theme. The new UK & Ireland ProMasters team – Anne Veck, Michelle Griffin, Thomas Hills, Steven Smart, Paul Meekin, John Morrison and Rae Palmer, with help from American Crew artists Johnny BaBa and Dan Rix – sent an impressive array of models down the catwalk based on characters in the show, with intricate hair work, 3D animation and a wardrobe featuring genuine pieces from the TV favourite. Later, the flags were flying again as avant-garde favourite Anne Veck won the global Revlon Professional Style Masters crown, while Sandra Perovic, from Bond’s Barbershop in Bournemouth, claimed the global American Crew All Star Challenge title. Both global winners take home cash prizes – Anne won €10,000, while Sandra won $10,000 (€8,900)! Truly impressive.

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6 1 20 IT’S NEARLY TIME…

S T S I L A N FI D E C N U ANNO AL MOST U N N A H T 6 1 ’S D EA H ENTRIES TO CREATIVE VE BEEN ASSESSED AND THE WANTED AWARDS HA E THRILLED TO ANNOUNCE SCORES ARE IN. WE’R TALENTS SHORTLISTED THE EXTRAORDINARYE EVER – FOR TWO NEW – FOR THE FIRST TIM Y FOR SALONS IN THE AWARDS EXCLUSIVELD. RAISE A GLASS, PEOPLE! REPUBLIC OF IRELAN

SUPREME TEAM FINALISTS

EXCEPTIONAL STYLIST FINALISTS

SPONSORED BY

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DYLAN BRADSHAW, Dylan Bradshaw

BROWN SUGAR, Dublin

BRIDGET HAREN, Altamoda Hair

DYLAN BRADSHAW, Dublin

JOE HAYES, Toni&Guy

HOUSE OF COLOUR, Dublin

ALAN KEVILLE, Alan Keville for Hair

IKON HAIR DESIGN, Cork

OLIVE TUCKER, House of Colour

Follow the action! creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

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THE

STARS

WILL SHINE MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS GRAND FINAL

05/09/2016 Guildhall, London • Doors open 7pm

CALL TO BOOK TICKETS +44 1434 610940

SINGLE TICKET £220 (PLUS VAT) • TABLE OF 12 £2,400 (PLUS VAT) • VIP TABLE OF 12 £2,800 (PLUS VAT)

HE’S HOSTING! BRIT-HOT COMIC ROB BECKETT! @robbeckettcomic

@creativeheadmag #MWIT16

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BONDING SERVICES

A COLOUR

REVOLUT I O N Hair by Sophia Hilton for Innoluxe, photography by Stefan Sieler. Innoluxe is distributed in Ireland by Salon Shop

BONDING IS A GAME-CHANGER THAT PROMISES TO ALTER THE WAY SALONS DO COLOUR FOREVER. BUT DOES IT REALLY LIVE UP TO THE HYPE? WH AT IS IT? BONDING IS ALL about repairing and strengthening the bonds in the hair that can otherwise get damaged through a chemical colouring process. The original bonding product, Olaplex, is an additive that eliminates the negative reaction oxygen has to sulphite bonds in chemically treated hair, which is what leads to breakage. Created in the US, in its first four months of availability Olaplex sold into more than 7,000 salons worldwide. Both Olaplex and Colorphlex have also caused a storm on Instagram, a great way to illustrate what bonding can do. Frank O’Keeffe, senior manager for Sugar Culture, tested Olaplex before introducing it to the salon group this year. “The way it works is by creating an artificial bond within the hair, preventing it from swelling during the colouration process, so it maintains hair quality – which is what all clients want,” he says. “When we tested it we did it on a half-head application with Olaplex and a half-head without. Now we use it as a standalone treatment, or with our powder pre-lighteners, which typically means highlights.” Other brands launched into Ireland include Colorphlex, Innoluxe, Egobond and the newest kid on the block, Hair Supporters from Alfaparf Milano.

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HOW DO YOU USE IT?

M OL AP LEX ON I NST AGRA

Again, the process depends on which brand you use, but there are standard application techniques. The bonding additive is added into any colour or bleach product and processed as usual. Most colour additive brands say they can be mixed with any colour brand and with no higher level of developer needed, but the quantity of colour additive used depends on the amount of repair required. Most claim not to require a patch test, but check with the manufacturer before using. There then follows a step two, which acts as a treatment and is carried out at the backwash. Step three is at-home products, giving salons the chance to sell additional retail to their clients. Barry Healy, owner of Momento Hair in Galway city, which stocks Olaplex, recently started using Egobond as well. “We needed a cheaper bonding product for clients who are more price sensitive, so while Egobond is less expensive for clients, it has a three-phase in-salon process so takes about 20 minutes longer, while Olaplex has two phases in-salon followed by a take-home product.”

WH AT DOES IT MEAN FOR CLIENTS?

Anne-Marie Nolan, manager of Reba Hair & Beauty in Ashtown, west Dublin introduced Colorphlex into her salon six months ago. “I find it amazing; it’s so versatile in that it can be used as a backwash treatment or as a colouring treatment. “It protects the hair during colouring and the feedback from clients has been really positive – so much so that it’s a repeat service every time the client returns to the salon,” she explains. “We offer it to all clients and use it for all colour processes, but clients who benefit most are those going from dark to blonde, getting highlights, balayage and any colour process that involves bleach.” Tests of Hair Supporters from Alfaparf showed a 21 per cent increase in hair elasticity and a 20 per cent increase in hair strength, while Colorphlex has found it makes hair up to four-times stronger. Egobond, which was launched in Ireland in January this year, offers a dual action to strengthen the internal hair fibre for improved resistance and to protect and preserve the hair shaft externally.

CO LORPHLEX ON I NST

AGRAM

WH AT ABOUT BUSI NESS?

Ultimately, it means you can charge more money by using a bonding service. Olaplex is proving to be very popular with clients of the Sugar Culture group. “One of the main reasons we took it on is client demand. They are coming in and asking for it; they’re not coming in and asking for bonding treatment – they specify Olaplex,” adds Frank O’Keeffe. It’s a similar scenario at Reba Hair & Beauty, where Anne-Marie Nolan reports that the homecare kit including shampoo, conditioner and treatment means that clients can continue to boost the hair benefits at home – which has also proved to be a boon to the salon’s overall revenue stream. “Colorphlex has massively boosted our retail sales and we’ve offered commission incentives to staff for it,” she adds.

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T OP SH EL F

TOOLS

STRAIGHTENERS, CURLERS AND BRUSHES, OH MY! CLIENTSʼ DEMANDS CAN MAKE THE BEST OF US WEEP. BUT KEEP YOUR COOL – WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY

SMO O T H Straighten hair with the ease of a brush and save precious styling time with the new Straight & Style Speed Brush Pro from Diva Professional Styling. Using a combination of hot bristles to gently relax the hair, and cool bristles to set it straight, it’s a multi-tasking stylist’s dream. This iron glides through the hair, straightening and brushing simultaneously, while cool grooves on the back allow you to add soft curls and ﬂicks. Diva’s Radiant Shine technology produces glossy results – the macadamia, argan oil and keratin-infused hot ceramic bristles work to reduce frizz and static while enhancing hair with brilliant shine. Variable heat settings from 110°C to 210°C enable clients to style at a temperature that’s right for them, too.

RRP €122.99 gainfort.com

The GB Creative Iron Plus from Alter Ego Italy is a great all-rounder, a straightening iron with titanium plates that generate negative ions and infrared heat. The 42mm plate is titanium gold on the bottom and titanium mirror on top, with a digital system that controls the temperature to a single degree, up to 230°C, making this iron a special tool for hair straightening. The results are longer lasting and reduce the drying time of hair.

RRP €140 kreativesalonsupplies.com

Inspired by the Brazilian rainforest, the Brazil Fantasy Steampod from L’Oréal Professionnel is designed to provide a fun approach to heat styling with a colourful twist. It delivers a continuous ﬂow of high pressure steam to seal and smooth the hair for a long-lasting, glossy finish and helps maintain a balanced moisture level of the hair fibre. It has five temperature levels ranging from 140°C to 210°C and a personal heat preference that will remember your settings.

RRP €200 lorealprofessionnel.com

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KM Loves Cortex 4 in One professional curling iron from Aussie Kevin.Murphy’s stable, has four interchangeable heads with ionic technology, an adjustable digital temperature display and a programmable auto shut-off. This iron gives a full and natural look and can create styles ranging from tight ringlets and spirals to large curls and waves.

New from BaByliss PRO, the limited edition Spectrum Flat Barrel Wand has an oval ceramic barrel which creates beautiful, natural loose waves with a smooth finish. It also features 25 heat settings, a 2.7m swivel cord that’s perfect for the salon and reaches a temperature of 200°C for long-lasting results. Oh, and we love the tangerine hue, too!

RRP €125

RRP €45.50

nationalbeauty.ie

thehairandbeautycompany.ie

Joico’s new Style and Reconstruct Styler, features a ground-breaking design to ensure perfect hair styling without damage. It incorporates a refillable tank for K-Pak VaporFuel and, when activated, the liquid is released into the Styler so that it reconstructs the hair whilst styling. Combined with the Nano-Diamond coated plates, stylists can now avoid the use of harmful chemicals for a smooth finish.

RRP €165 xpertpro.ie

There’s something for everyone with the ghd Curve range. There’s the Classic Wave Wand for glamorous, Hollywood-worthy waves; the Soft Curl Tong with a large barrel for tumbling waves; the Creative Curl Wand with a tapered shape for a beachy texture; and the Classic Curl Tong for uniformly beautiful curls. The tools use tri-zone technology to keep the temperature constant and enable a faster heat-up, while the speedy styling time helps you to achieve a glossy finish no matter what kind of curls you’re creating.

RRP €149 EACH gainfort.com

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#Tools

DRY ER S Keep hair under control with the ghd Aura, which focuses the airstream only on the places you want it. The dryer blows hair in one direction, forcing the cuticles ﬂat for increased shine and less frizz.

With a powerful AC motor and built-in ionic generator to reduce frizz, the Rapida3600Pro from Diva Professional Styling will leave hair looking shiny and feeling healthy. Its features also include a ceramic and tourmaline grille.

RRP €195

RRP €49.19

ghdhair.ie

This professional blow dryer has a fiveyear warranty, so it’s ready for plenty. The Valera Swiss Power4ever (2,400W) has an Enduro brushless BLDC motor, uses smart airﬂow technology, has six airﬂow/temperature settings and weighs just 495g.

gainfort.com

If you need high-speed airﬂow and smooth styling, the ItaliaBRAVA dryer from BaByliss PRO is for you. Powered by a MaxLife PRO brushless motor that’s designed in collaboration with Ferrari!

RRP €199

RRP €150

xpertpro.ie

kreativesalonsupplies.com

T H E I N N O VA T O R S NOWADAYS, THERE are more straighteners and tongs on the market than we can shake a stick at, but every now and again a game-changer comes along. The O from Cloud Nine was one such innovator, while the BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl was another. The former changed the way clients and stylists alike used rollers, bringing them firmly into the 21st century. The latter promised to do what no other tong or styler had ever been able to achieve: create a perfect curl without you doing the all the hard work. If we didn’t need any more proof of the Perfect Curl’s innovative credentials, it’s received The DYSON SUPERSONIC RRP €400 Queen’s Award for outstanding business achievement in innovation dyson.ie for its Auto Curl system. And Dyson has put a whole new spin on the dryer with the Supersonic. After a £50m (€63m) investment and development help from HOB Salons’ Akin Konizi, it features a super-light engine in the handle and promises to dry hair in half the time. And, of course, what would an innovations section be without ghd? A true pioneer, ghd’s latest clever bit of kit is the platinum, which heats hair safely and evenly without compromising on the final look or impacting colour, thanks to its tri-zone technology. A wishbone hinge design also ensures a smoother glide and better finish. THE O FROM CLOUD NINE

BABYLISS PRO PERFECT CURL

RRP €215

gainfort.com

GHD PLATINUM

RRP €215

ghdhair.ie

ULTIMATE SET

RRP £159.95

professional.cloudninehair.com

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BRU S H E S Head Huggers is a new range of hourglassshaped barrel brushes from Denman featuring Thermoceramic technology. The ceramic-coated barrels retain heat, prevent ‘hot spots’ and enable damage-free styling. The hourglass shape hugs the contour of the head and gets close to the root of the hair. And the crimped bristle is more gentle on the scalp, too.

RRP FROM €8.60 gainfort.com

Get tough on tangles with the Wet Brush in ombre. Designed with Intelli-ﬂex bristles that bend and ﬂex to glide gently through the hair, Wet Brush promises no tugging, pulling and no fuss – just how we like it. As an added bonus, the ball tip bristles massage the scalp, stimulating circulation at the follicle for healthy hair.

RRP €10.95 salonservices.com Unruly hair is a thing of the past with the range of Kevin.Murphy smoothing, styling and roll brushes and combs. Made from 100 per cent sustainable bamboo, the eco-friendly roll brush is not only waterproof but also lightweight in order to help eliminate stylist hand and wrist fatigue.

RRP FROM €11 nationalbeauty.ie

The Ceramics KS10 brush from the Kent Salon Ceramics range has a durable, specially developed ceramic coating which heats up quickly, enabling these brushes to distribute heat more evenly. It’s available in four sizes and speeds styling without snagging.

The Moroccanoil ceramic barrel brush comes in four sizes – 25mm up to 55mm - and its ﬂat shape is perfect for creating straight, smooth styles. It features ceramic to protect hair from excess heat and reduces drying time. Ionic bristles repel water for a quicker dry, while further ionic technology smoothes the hair cuticle giving silky hair.

RRP FROM €26

RRP FROM €14.25

nationalbeauty.ie

xpertpro.ie

R OL L ER S Create stylish looks with increased volume and curls in four easy steps using the Kodo 45mm Lock and Roll set! This volume hair styling kit comes with detachable brush heads and handle is ideal for salon or use at home.

RRP €35.61

gainfort.com

The TLC Mosaic brush reduces split ends and hair pulling to reduce breakage. It leaves the hair with its own natural oils for a brilliant shine. It teases out tangles easily and without the tears. The brush can be used in the shower, on wet or dry hair to easily remove tangles without pulling or breaking the hair.

RRP €10.95 xpertpro.ie

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Age of innocence

Kazumiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new collection is all about classic style and ornamentation, influenced by artist John Lavery PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILY QUINN 38

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HAIR Jenni Crawford. MAKE-UP Zoe Clark using MAC. STYLING Jenni Crawford and Paloma Feijoo, thanks to Claire Garvey, Costume, Coast and &Other Stories for the clothes.

l o d I p o P SUMMER JUST GOT A WHOLE LOT BRIGHTER WITH THESE COLOUR POPS FROM RICHARD ASHFORTH AND SACOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW COLLECTION FOR ALFAPARF MILANO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY COLIN ROY 42

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HAIR AND MAKE-UP London Saco Academy directed by Richard Ashforth for Alfaparf Milano.

E H T D AN

T A BES ON GOE

PAYING HOMAGE TO A LATE â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70S MUSICAL ODYSSEY, CHARLES WORTHINGTON MBE, KATIE ALLAN AND THE CHARLES WORTHINGTON CREATIVE TEAM HIT THE RIGHT NOTE WITH BEAT

PHOTOGRAPHY BY CATHERINE HARBOUR

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HAIR Charles Worthington MBE, Katie Allan and the Charles Worthington Creative Team. MAKE-UP Cassie Steward. VIDEOGRAPHY Rob Nixon.

Ha d a fanta stic da y wit h @way ne lloy dh air in th e Sean Ta affe Acad em y in Tra lee

Brus hin g up on my up sty le techn iqu e

My new extensions – by Agness in Limerick

In the

F ilmi ng look s for the race s with Xpo sé

frame

Soft upstyle s for a client attending a weddin g

Cara Linehan, stylist at Sean Taaffe in Killarney, Co. Kerry, snaps away...

Tha nks @bridg etha ren for a day of advanced upstylin g M ak e-u p ex pe rt Sa rah Cu mm ins is ph en om en al – I a m in awe of he r!

In love with my new exte nsio ns – the y're a ma zing!

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Creative colourin g and hair tattooi ng with @barbe rchris–st

Se ct io n in g of f fo r hig hlig ht in g

I wou ldn't go any whe re else for my ma ke- up @sa ndra–flyn n CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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rs co lo

co lo

Styling

co lo

Color

Shape

lor

Care

PIGMENTS colours everything.

The number one choice for salon owners in Ireland

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LOVE YOUR

...because top salon clients know

Yesterday there was colour, today there is 7 STAR QUALITY COLOUR discover

THE ORIGINAL

www.olaplex.co.uk

FIND US USING