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March 2013 e7.50
c r e a t i v e
Ireland
C r e at i v e H e a d I r e l a n d March 2013
Spring tide Step forward in style 01_230+4.5mm spine 1
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see coloUr in a NEW light.
The first sheer colour that‘s luminous in every kind of light. Up to 70% more Light Reflection* & Superior Hair Protection* Up to 100% grey/white coverage with a sheer result Easy to get started – same 1:1 mixing ratio & Welloxon Perfect developer For more information, contact your Wella Professionals Account Manager, call 01 4160900 or visit www.wella.com like us on facebook
*Colour after colour, versus our biggest global competitor on a blonde shade
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l e e F the
beat
Put your hands together for the Wella Professionals TrendVision Upbeat collection •Wella+8pp 1
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Hitting the right notes Spring is just around the corner, and with it comes Wella Professionals TrendVision’s playful Upbeat collection and two key looks, Fusion and Decibel The sound of spring is upbeat and positive, as music merges with the visual world. Recognising this, the Wella Professionals Trend Collection team has harnessed the power that music and sound has over all of us and translated it into seasonal trends that can be reinterpreted in the salon. Drawing on the spontaneous and playful, Fusion and Decibel are the culmination of a global hunt for creative insight into the very latest music and fashion trends to inspire the artist in you. Let yourself be swept away on a wave of creativity as we reveal the beauty behind Fusion and Decibel, which were created using a selection of products from Wella Professionals’ colour portfolio, including Koleston Perfect, Blondor, Color Touch and ILLUMINA COLOR.
“Everybody hears and interprets music or sound in different ways and it triggers a unique response. It’s been really interesting for us to explore how sound can capture a mood that gives birth to a trend” Josh Wood, Well a Professionals global creative director, colour
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FUSION WHERE EAST MEETS WEST
This trend is all about juxtapositions and the merging of two normally opposing forces: experimental Western architecture fuses with the serenity of an Eastern tea ceremony; a state-of-the-art sound system is complemented by the subtle beauty of a kimono. Think new-wave fusion textiles, Japanese painting and liquid eye colour. In-salon: faded, pastel colours with bright, strong tones. Porcelain, olive, pale willow and tobacco shades prevail. Blondor, Wella Professionals’ range of lightening products, can be used to pre-lighten the hair before using either Koleston Perfect permanent colour for up to 100 per cent grey/white coverage or Color Touch, ammonia-free, mildly oxidising semi-permanent colour. Cut and style: inspiration comes from Eastern architecture, pagodas and geishas. Hair is shaped to enhance the effect of the colour. Use the new Wella Professionals Oil Reflections to instantly reveal the beautiful reflections of coloured hair and care for the colour with Wella Professionals Brilliance Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask.
“Fusion really pushes things creatively – this is where the future lies. It creates a unique blend of styles and the colours have a strong energy, like the density of sound” JAYSON GR AY, CREATIVE DIRECTOR FOR TONI&GUY AND A WELL A PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
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DECIBEL GLAM ROCK WITH A SENSE OF DISCORD AND OPTIMISM
The lights have never been so bright and colour so brash yet complementary. All signs of life and vitality feature in this trend: multi-coloured feathers from birds of paradise and a neon-lit nirvana – it’s dazed and it’s digital. In-salon: a wild mix of petrol, aubergine, turquoise, rich browns and sulphuric tones can be found next to faded and washed-out colours. Wella Professionals Koleston Perfect is ideal for creating the vibrant, bold tones seen in this trend, or for a more subtle take use ILLUMINA COLOR. Cut and style: inspiration comes from the art world; it’s edgy and individual. Hair is shaped into daring forms, revealing a cacophony of colour. Try Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier as the perfect primer for styling the Decibel look, and care for the colour with System Professional Color Save Shampoo, Conditioner and Mask.
“Decibel is flamboyant – she’s bold, spontaneous, a rock chick. The colour is an explosion of attitude and deliberately provocative. Any of these styles can be adapted to salon work by changing the colour choice” FAYE TURNER, HEAD OF TECHNIC AL FOR HOB SALONS AND A WELL A PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER
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Trends in YOU’VE SEEN THE TRENDS, NOW DISCOVER HOW TO RECREATE THEM IN THE SALON, WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBERS It’s one thing knowing the seasonal trends; it’s quite another figuring out how to make them salon-friendly. You love them, but how can you get your clients to love them too? Wella Professionals Colour Club members Danny Dowie, senior creative director of Cheynes, and the Regis Education Team, show you how… Shot at SNAP studios in Hoxton, London, these looks show the versatility of the two trends, specifically demonstrating how Decibel’s bold statement colours can create interest in shorter styles, and how muted pastel blonde tones can blend from warm candyfloss to cool jade for a highly creative yet client-friendly interpretation of Fusion.
“Fusion is all about fusing aesthetics, sounds and techniques, resulting in an incredible look: a beautiful, client-friendly style and colour” DANNY DOWIE, CHEYNES
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“This colour is all about creating a bold statement, with the shorter style perfectly capturing freedom of expression”
“We took inspiration from Fusion’s dream of the Orient, blending warm candyfloss and cool jade tones. Her style captures Fusion’s wave of energy”
REGIS EDUC ATION TEAM
DANNY DOWIE, CHEYNES
14/2/13 13:13:29
NEW
Indulge
the senses Immerse your clients in a multi-sensory experience with new Wella Professionals Oil Reflections
This oil instantly reveals the beautiful reflections of your client’s hair colour, for results you can see and touch. Why you need to get it now:
• Perfect for use on wet or dry hair • Leaves hair up to 86 per cent more reflective* • Contains macadamia seed oil, avocado oil and vitamin E *Versus low-conditioning shampoo
To find out more about Oil Reflections and the TrendVision Upbeat collection, speak to your WElla Professionals account manager, visit www.wellatrendvision.com or become a fan of ‘Wella UK’ on facebook
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Desktop. Mobile. Tablet.
NEW!
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Colour by Nathan Walker at Trevor Sorbie. Styling by James Pecis.
ENTRUST YOUR BEAUTY TO PROFESSIONALS
Highlights with Ombré, naturally chic.
Nature Ombré
SPRING-SUMMER 2013 COLLECTION The hair trend of the season - Ombré reinvented with highlights, for a personalised and multi-dimensional result - New INOA Mocha shades, for hair as beautiful as nature For more information, www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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Together. A passion for hair
Imagine true colour in High Definition Coming soon
editor’s letter
March
CREATIVE HEAD Ireland
35
27 57 If you look back at some of the major launches in the past few years, the professional haircare industry has spent a lot of its time taking toxins out of products to deliver purer, cleaner, natural and more organic offerings. Sulphates, parabens, ammonia and other nasties are fast being eliminated – and their absence is a key marketing tool. Green brand initiatives, such as offsetting carbon emissions by planting trees or using sustainable energy, are also placing companies in higher regard. In short, the mainstream is becoming greener and sustainability is fast becoming the new normal. So what is your salon doing to evolve? In Down to Earth from page 32, we explore a multitude of ways in which your salon can edge that bit closer to a greener, cleaner product and service offering. Another area that I urge you to explore after you’ve read this month’s issue is the men’s market. In January, Creative HEAD Ireland spent three days at London Collections: Men, now in its second season. The menswear show schedule, which is followed by Milan and Paris shows, is a whole new addition to the international fashion calendar and is already having a dramatic effect on the male grooming market. The announcement that New York will be hosting a menswear fashion week next season will only bring further interest, as men are inspired by the head-to-toe offerings and become more comfortable with expressing themselves through clothing and grooming. Trust me on this one, the male market is about to boom! See page 54 for a taster, and let’s hope that Ireland has its own menswear schedule in the near future.
Sarah Manley sarah@headmag.ie
Follow @CreativeHEADIrl on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ Creative Head Ireland 08
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contents
March
free range
Alfol
What’s inside
Ltd
PUBLISHING 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND
Editor
Sarah Manley
REGULars _ 13 the source Alexa Chung, Kate Moss and Katie Holmes front hair campaigns, and we showcase a bevy of new and innovative products
Contributor
Aoibhinn Mcbride
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Art director
Nick Jabbal Art
Graeme White
25 _ Scene
Marrakech with Matrix and a trip to San Francisco and Las Vegas with Redken
Chief sub editor
Adam Wood Special projects manager
Joanna Andersen
58 _ the last word
Innovation should be at the heart of your business, says Anne Butterly of Easydry
Advertising managers
Sarah Manley ben baldock Editor in chief
Amanda nottage
features
32 _ Down to earth
A few small steps can lead to great change that benefits your salon. We show you how easy it is to get enivronmentally friendly
Publisher
catherine handcock
WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND 6-9 Trinity STreet DUBLIN 2 T: 01 617 7947 Email: sarah@headmag.ie Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com, find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @CreativeHEADIrl Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD Ireland is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD Ireland is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
fashion
44 _ Jewel Prodigy
An intelligent triumph from Angelo Seminara, Living Jewels is a sublime display of colour
46 _ Block Party
Fabio D’Onofrio heads Stateside to explore the gritty beauty of downtown New York
50 _ Royal Fervour
Religion, royalty and fantasy inspire the latest collection from Thomas Behan for Salon Tibo
54 _ Runway
We round-up the very best of London Collections: Men
head c r e a t i v e
March 2013 e7.50
Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetablebased inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
Ireland
Spring tide Step forward in Style
ON the COVER Colour Regis Education Team for Wella Professionals Hair Simon Bryer for Wella Professionals Make-up Jon Christopher Styling Rachel Fanconi Photography Elizabeth Gibson SUBSCRIBE NOW And you’ll receive a free gift from Schwarzkopf Professional, worth E57.60 Turn to page 42 for more information
Creative Head Ireland 10
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M A D E I N I TA LY
CAUSE A
SENSATION!
INTEGRATED SPRAY TAN
SHIATSU MASSAGE SYSTEM
A UNIQUE PRODUCT FOR YOUR SALON. A BRAND NEW SERVICE FOR YOUR CLIENTS! The SENSATION backwash unit is the first of its kind; A unique shampoo unit with integrated Shiatsu massage system, electric legrest, and introducing the amazing SalonTan system! An integrated spray-tan system complete with double action air brush offers an amazing tan for your customers, all while enjoying a luxurious massage experience! Contact Essential Salon Supplies for more details, and visit our showrooms in Limerick and Dublin to try the SENSATION for yourself!
DUBLIN - Unit 3, Red Cow Retail Centre, Robin Hood Road, Ballymount - Tel. 01 464 2771 LIMERICK - Building 6 Delta Retail Park, Ballysimon Road - Tel. 061 212028 Fax 061 212030 info@essentialsalon.ie www.essentialsalon.ie
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Fashion. Videos. Trends.
NEW!
www.creativeheadmag.com
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source
It’s bananas, B-a-n-a-n-a-s: percy and reed’s hot new salon
the
Page 19
Celebrities take the lead as face of hair campaigns Alexa Chung has become the latest name to join the haircare ranks as a brand ambassador. Chung, who will front INOA from L’Oréal Professionnel, joins Kate Moss and Katie Holmes on the list of celebrities who have this year announced partnerships that are defining a new approach to haircare promotion. A global style icon, Chung is known for her trademark cut and colour and has an impressive range of work and awards already to her name. She said: “L’Oréal Professionnel is
behind some of the amazing looks on the catwalks in London and Paris, so I’m really excited to join the team.” Just six days before Chung’s announcement, Kate Moss was confirmed as the face for Kérastase Styling. To officially launch the new range and alliance, Moss was styled for a campaign that will appear in Kérastase salons by Luigi Murenu, artistic director for Kérastase Styling and a friend of the model. Actress Katie Holmes has joined forces with Alterna Haircare, not only as an JAN
ambassador but as a co-owner, as the brand intends to expand worldwide. Consumers across Europe will get a first glimpse of the partnership in Alterna Haircare’s spring campaign, with material featuring Holmes. Joan Malloy, president of Alterna Haircare, said: “Katie is a fashionista, a mother and an entrepreneur. In short, she is our consumer.” Thinning hair range Nioxin also added a celebrity name, when in December it announced Sophie Ellis-Bextor as its Ireland and UK ambassador.
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Kate Moss
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news, products and business know-how It all starts here…
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March 2013
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ipse The new ghd ecl
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the latest news from the industry
Jimmy Choo owners buy ghd Lion Capital, a leading consumer company and investor in such brands as Jimmy Choo and AllSaints Spitalfields, has bought ghd from European investment firm Montagu Private Equity. While the terms of the transaction were not disclosed, it has been reported that the sale was in the region of £300m (E347m), almost double what ghd was acquired for by Montagu in 2007. Since the firm took on the brand six
years ago, it focused on delivering growth through expansion into the US, European and Australasian markets, accompanied by significant investment in new product research and development. Recent launches have included a styling and brush line, the ghd air dryer and this month, the new ghd eclipse styler. Commenting on the sale, Paul Stoneham, chief executive of ghd, said: “We’re delighted to welcome
whitaker Business bootcamp intends to transform salons Schwarzkopf Professional has teamed up with esteemed business coach Antony Whitaker to offer a ‘3 Day Bootcamp’, involving every member of a salon team. The course, which focuses on management, marketing and team skills for 10 delegates or less, also includes follow-up oneon-one mentoring via Skype with Anthony to ensure business goals set are met after the course is over. Whitaker added: “Your business is a direct reflection of you, so the better you become, the better the business becomes.” The first course will take place on 10 March at the Heritage Hotel in Portlaoise.
Lion Capital as a new partner in developing the ghd brand. As leading investors in successful consumer-facing businesses the firm is a superb fit for us and fully supportive of our stylistcentric strategy and commitment to new product development. We have exciting plans to grow the ghd brand globally, but continue to be enormously proud of our heritage.” Now 12 years in business, ghd is sold in more than 50,000 professional salons worldwide.
IHF leads clampdown of hairdressing black market In response to an overwhelming amount of complaints about black market hairdressing, the Irish Hairdressers Federation (IHF), Special Investigation Unit (Department of Social Protection) and the Revenue (Compliance Division) have heightened their investigations to clamp down on offenders. The IHF has built a direct line of communication with the Revenue as it works on behalf of members to address the issue of non-compliance in the industry. Greg Clarke, president of the IHF, said: “Our members have highlighted how the issue of unregulated business activities are affecting their business in a very real way.” To help combat the problem, the IHF has set up a portal on its Irishhairfed.com website where known cases of noncompliance can be filed and passed on to the Special Investigation Unit. Clarke added: “There are many out there who are aware of black market activity but are afraid to report matters. The launch of the IHF portal takes the pressure off these salons and individuals.”
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NEWS March
My month ahead What does March have in store for… Alan Boyce
Toni&Guy The month is going to be very busy for us. The art team will be working hard on our in-house photoshoots and shows. We’re also looking for new premises for the Toni&Guy academy and are busy formulating personal development plans for all the staff, so it’s a very positive time for us.
Quinn is first Northern Ireland Joico educator Michael Quinn has been appointed the first educator for Joico in Northern Ireland. Owner of Michael Quinn Hairdressing in Belfast, Michael will deliver training seminars to students, with the aim of developing Joico stylists and colourists. Quinn has a strong history in the hair industry, having previously trained with the International Style Team at Vidal Sassoon. He said: “This enhances the opportunity for training locally. Students previously would have had to travel to Dublin or Athlone – a local academy makes education more accessible.”
Susan Hannon
Voodoo Hair Design, Cork It’s all about education. We’re doing a Great Lengths hair extension course and we’re really excited about incorporating this service into our salon. We’ll also be concentrating on red carpet hair looks after the awards season and we’re introducing a new smoothing system from Kebelo.
Foxy Chopper, Waterford
If you only do one thing this month...
Competition season kicks off allowing junior staff to see first-hand what’s involved and expected when competing at senior level. Also our pop-up salon hits the road with its dry and curl bar. But it’s not all work as the team will go to Dublin to support our salon’s resident DJs Yatchrock, who are playing at the Village on Wexford Street.
Get involved in one of this year’s 14 Irish Hairdressing Championship titles. Even if you are not entering you can still head along to Citywest Hotel in Dublin on 10 March and be inspired by looks across a host of categories, including Senior Ladies Full Fashion, Creative Colour and Long Hair Up. Spectator tickets cost just E25, call 056 8833808 for more information. JAN
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IHF Championships 2012
Michael Downes
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New products, tools and colours
want it!
Talking heads
We’re not ones to support cosmetic enhancements of the human kind, but when it comes to products we’re all for it. In the case of Joico, the brand has undergone something of a reinvention, of which the most impressive feature is ground-breaking technology Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex, which is present in all of the the shampoos, conditioners, treatments, stylers and finishers. In short, it works to mimic the peptide chains that repair hair and create a shield of protection. As a result, locks feel dramatically stronger and healthier after just one use!
RRP from e11.90 Call 045 856 490
www.joicoeurope.com
Don’t shade away
Alterna has launched a quick and easy way to conceal roots between treatments with 2 Minute Touch-Up. From the palest blondes to the darkest brunettes, it’s a vanity saviour. RRP e30.75 Call 0044 1925 578000
www.alternahaircare.com
Available in six colours, Color Recharge from Wella Professionals will reignite the glow in your client’s hair colour, helping it stay fresh between salon visits.
Once left on for five to 10 minutes, the new shade-reviving balms from Shu Uemura Art of Hair’s Color Lustre, work to accentuate warmth and neutralise unwanted tones.
RRP e14.25 Call 01 416 0900
RRP e40 Call 01 604 5935
www.wella.com
www.shuuemuraartofhair.com
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NEWS March
When hair meets fashion
Age of beauty Label.m’s luxury, Therapy AgeDefying range has swelled its ranks with Radiance Oil. It’s combined with healing properties of Moroccan argan oil and Rejuven-8 Complex, a formula that comprises eight of the most technologically active anti-ageing ingredients for longterm results.
Balmain Hair’s new Styling range for couture hair is not only superstylish, it’s also so versatile and easy to use that we guarantee you’ll wonder how you ever lived without it! Each product is labelled in clean, fresh packaging and does exactly what it promises to do – delivering quality styling when you need it most. RRP from e19.60 Call 0044 800 781 0936
RRP e30 Call 0044 845 070 8080 www.labelm.com
www.balmainhair.com
Clay time
times six Wella Profesionals lightreflecting Illumina Color now comes in six new tones, including two warm soft blondes, two cool browns and two cool crisp blondes. in-salon service Call 01 416 0900
Friends of the earth Easydry’s waterproof and tint-resistant capes get an injection of crimson colour this month, while still offering complete protection to clients’ clothes with an impermeable coating on one side and highly absorbent Easydry towel on the other. salon price e319 for 600 Call 042 939 4318
We all know how good clay is for drawing out nasty impurities from our skin, but now those clever people at Fudge have made clay work for hair by adding French green clay into six matte mineral texture products. The new Fudge Textures range includes clay, clay wax, styling milk, styling dust, rocket spray and deconstruction spray – and all create fabulous texture and movement in hair, without having to set, tong or curl locks. So wave goodbye to spending hours prepping the hair, and say hello to instant texture! RRP from e13.80 Call 051 304 766
www.fudge.com
www.easydry.com
www.wella.com
force of nature
Do your clients want born-again locks that are as soft and strong as never-before-coloured hair? The new range by Schwarzkopf Professional, BC Fibre Force, promises all this and more, thanks to hair-identical keratins that penetrate deep to re-cement cells and restore hair.
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RRP From e13.25 Call 01 404 6424 www.schwarzkopf-professional.ie
www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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business advice and stylish interiors
TASKFORCE
Booking Business the trend Pro Colette Farren
Owner of Serenity Salon, Carndonagh, Donegal I was ready to go into business… when I knew that there was an opening for a salon that offered more natural products and services. There are so many people out there who have had cancer and suffer skin conditions such as eczema and psoriasis. We don’t claim to cure these problems, but we dramatically reduce irritation. I start my working day… remembering how much I love what I do. I try not to let anything deter me from that, as negativity is infectious and I have so much to be grateful for. I cope with pressure by… thinking about why I do what I do. I must admit it takes an awful lot to make me stressed. The biggest risk I have taken… everything has been a transition – from growing up and knowing what to leave behind and what to progress with to make my life better for myself and the people involved in it. I knew I had made it when... I wouldn’t necessarily say I’ve made it, but I’m going to keep trying! My team would describe me as… a woman possessed, probably! When I set myself a goal, I never give up until I have achieved it. Professional qualities I admire… are people who remember what it’s like to be at the bottom. It’s a quick fall from the top and if you’ve stepped on everyone you know on the way up, no one will be there to catch you on the way down.
Do you want to make clients’ lives easier, cut down on no shows and broaden your market reach? Then an online booking system is fundamental to your growth
According to a report conducted by AMAS on behalf of the Irish Internet Association, the number of Irish consumers buying online in 2012 was at an all timehigh, with more than 50 per cent of the population making one or more purchase. So if people are turning to the internet to make their lives easier when buying products, what does this mean for salon services? Consumers are used to booking flights and hotels online, and now even a table in a restaurant, so why not their next hair appointment? “The best thing about booking online is that it offers client discretion,” says Cormac McNamara, owner of Dublin-based online booking operator Salon Addict. “So many people work in an open-plan office and don’t want to make the appointment in front of their colleagues, so booking online is so much more convenient.” Google-commissioned research found that smartphone users are increasingly reliant on their devices for researching and making a purchases. Ultimately, smartphones have changed consumer buying behaviour and, with an estimated
click smart
70 per cent of the population owning one, mobile phone apps can be a major business opportunity, something that Phorest, an online booking software provider that operates Zanadoo.me, has capitalised on. “Zanadoo is essentially a 24/7 booking service,” explains Alvy Carragher, sales and marketing manager at Phorest. “When people are in work or on public transport they might not feel comfortable picking up the phone to make an appointment, or when they get home late at night. A system that allows clients to book appointments through Facebook just makes it more convenient.” Both Salon Addict and Photest use software that feeds directly into a salon’s central booking system so the potential for a double-booking is removed. And as bookings are made with a credit card, the possibility of a no-show is also reduced. If your salon is still dubious of technology, then Mark Doherty from Dublin salon SitStil reveals another advantage that might hold sway. “It frees up time and allows the staff to focus on the clients in the salon, instead of trying to man the phones at the same time. So it’s not just the booking element that is beneficial, it really does change the way the salon operates.”
Five reasons why the future of booking is online 1. Convenience – clients can book online 24/7 2. Flexibility – salons can alter the pricing structure to incentivise off-peak bookings 3. Attract new customers through increased web presence 4. Fill stylists’ columns – make certain staff available for online bookings to boost their column during quieter moments 5. SMS confirmations remind clients of their appointments, reducing the chance of no-shows
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Creative Head
Promotion
Born again… Give hair a new lease of life with Schwarzkopf Professional’s biggest innovation in years. It promises to help hair regain its inner strength and feel like new. So what is it?
It’s reinforced
It’s revived
It’s reborn
It’s BC Fibre Force •Fibre force 1
14/2/13 16:34:19
Total rebirth
Find hair’s inner strength with BC Fibre Force from Schwarzkopf Professional
How it works The new range restores even the most eroded hair to virgin quality, thanks to a technological breakthrough. Fibre Force uses micronised, hair-identical keratin components that penetrate deep into the hair architecture to re-cement the gaps in the cell membrane complex – that’s the intercellular bonding material responsible for strong hair fibre. The result? Hair is restored to optimal levels after regular use for four to 10 weeks. Your client will see hair strength improved by up to 100 per cent* and up to 95 per cent less breakage,* making hair feel new, refreshed and strengthened. You can now provide clients with an excellent conditioning treatment for damaged hair – in the salon and as a take-home range. The range includes shampoo, conditioner, spray conditioner, treatment and an exclusive salon treatment that immediately replenishes deeply damaged and eroded hair with a high concentration of hair-identical keratins. Can you feel the force?
*When using the BC Fibre Force range versus untreated hair
How many times have you had to deal with badly damaged hair that is over-processed, eroded, prone to breakage and in serious need of replenishment? No matter what you try, nothing seems to turn back time and return your clients’ hair to how it was prior to years of heat and styling – until now. Your clients can today experience hair that feels reborn thanks to BC Fibre Force – a groundbreaking innovation from Schwarzkopf Professional that’s set to change the hair world as we know it. You’re probably wondering if it’s really possible, and we understand your hesitation; after all, other brands have let you down before. This is why Schwarzkopf Professional is making sure the science behind it is foolproof.
Want to get Fibre Force into your salon? Find out how at www.schwarzkopf-professional.com, call +44 (0)1296 314 000 or like us on Facebook at ‘schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom’
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Colour S tation
NEWS March
interiorscape
Percy & Reed East Spitalfields, London
Adam Reed and Paul Percival have transformed a former banana and tomato merchants into a stunningly original salon space
Space: 1,693 sq ft. Team: 16. Styling: 13. Backwashes: Three. Inspirations: We were inspired by the heritage of the space as an old banana and tomato merchants. Attention to detail is key and we wanted to create a salon where every time a client comes in, they notice something different. The design: While we have given the salon a unique Percy & Reed touch, it has been designed with practicality in mind. Everything in the salon has been meticulously placed, creating a space that’s both homely and artistic. The colour palette: Throughout the salon there are accents of red and
yellow as a nod to the building’s past, contrasted with our brand’s trademark grey and white shades. Favourite area: The Jimmy Choo (cockney rhyming slang for loo). It’s the room that retains the most heritage and is really quirky. The brands: Wella Professionals, Sebastian Professional, BaByliss PRO, Viviscal Professional, Percy & Reed and Bumble and bumble. Special features: The Colour Station, which is a colour consultation technique we have been perfecting for years. It features six lights that hang in a circle around the consultation chair, with each one controlled by an iPad to work out which colours best reflect off the clients hair and suit their skin tone.
hot buys Stylish new interiors with lasting quality You’ve been framed Combining vintage style with hardwearing and long-lasting materials, Salon Ambience’s Baroque range is a real looker.
Do the twist Sleek and stylish with a retro ’50s vibe, this stunning leather styling chair from REM is the perfect mix of quirk and comfort.
Soul sister Kiela’s new Wellness Sister backwash is elegant, compact and includes an integrated leg rest.
Price e815 Contact 061 212 028
Price e595 Contact 094 902 3147
Price e1,200 Contact 045 856490
www.salonambiance.com
www.rem.co.uk
www.xpertpro.ie
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eclipse is a registered trademark of Jemella Group Limited AW818_UK Eclipse Trade DPS Creative Head.indd 1
07/02/2013 12:08
a head of its time tri-zone™ technology
ghd eclipse® is a new generation styler that tames the toughest of hair in an instant and bends it to your will. The right heat at the right time, all of the time, smoothes all textures with breakthrough, patented tri-zone™ technology. The six quick thinking sensors and super thin plates mean perfect heat control for maximum impact. It’s jaw droppingly good, try it. Contact your ghd account manager to experience the ghd eclipse® professional styler with tri-zone™ technology for yourself. For more information call +44 (0)1924 423400 or visit ghdhair.com/gamechanger
AW818_UK Untitled-1 1Eclipse Trade DPS Creative Head.indd 2
07/02/2013 12:08 22/2/13 12:49:33
fresh thinking on business
Trevor Sorbie Art Team members Anna Chapman and Petros Mairoudhiou
Exposed!
Only at Salon Smart, and in a unique after-dinner session, the award-winning Trevor Sorbie Art Team will talk show production and creative techniques, demonstrate editorial tricks, present some of their most awe-inspiring work, and create breathtaking looks live on stage. The session will also feature an exclusive interview with Trevor Sorbie himself.
28-29 April 2013 Park Plaza Riverbank, London
Book your Salon Smart tickets now Call +44 (0)1434 610944
For more information visit www.creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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Salon Smart is presented by
“We’re so excited to be presenting at Salon Smart next month. We’ll be sharing tomorrow’s style predictions, and hope to inspire everybody with some Trevor Sorbie show secrets. See you there!”
Sponsored by
In association with
Trevor Sorbie MBE
Tickets cost e193 per person* Includes the full two-day business programme, all meals and refreshments, gala dinner and hair show, and overnight 4-star accommodation on Sunday 28 April *Price based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £50 (€58) single room supplement applies. €113 day pass (Monday only) tickets also available. Visit www.creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart for more information. The right of admission is strictly reserved to the Park Plaza Riverbank and Salon Smart. Tickets payable in sterling, charged at £169 and £99, respectively.
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Photography by Milos Mlynarik
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20/2/13 11:29:51
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Sean Taaffe and Brendan Courtney at the opening of Sean Taaffe Hair & Beauty in Tralee
scene
parties, people, places, faces
22/2/13 10:34:54
Michael Young, Jamie Stevens and Gary Hooker
It was all aboard the Matrix Express as 230 hair professionals descended on Marrakech, Morocco, for the Matrix Ireland and UK International Conference. The blue skies and terracotta buildings that make up this vibrant city were the perfect backdrop for the conference, with Matrix Ireland and UK general manager Hugo Boisvert welcoming delegates. While 2012 was the best year for Matrix since 2005, Hugo was keen to impress upon guests the brand’s aim for 2013 – to be the undisputed leader in the ‘Best Value for Money’ category. Following a quick break and a chance to grab some rays, Matrix marketing manager Liz Griffiths highlighted the key marketing steps for 2013 and the brand’s colour plans, starting with its beBlonde campaign. With the morning programme out of the way, the afternoon was time for team bonding in the form of a slipper hunt through a Marrakech souk, ending with tea on the terrace overlooking Jemaa elFnaa square. Day two of the conference saw delegates splinter off into workshops, with each group discussing how to improve salon retail business. The climax of the conference was the Matrix Awards of Excellence 2012, held at Pacha nightclub. Jamie Stevens, Paul Falltrick, Gary Hooker, Michael Young and Anne Veck were among those recognised for their passion and commitment to the hairdressing industry, each taking home the Artistic Recognition Award. And Essential Salon Supplies scooped the Comeback of the Year award for their powerful end to 2012.
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Matrix delegates
The Essential Salon Supplies team collect their award
Marrakech express
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Marian Curtin and Brendan Courtney
Michelle Griffin, Abbi Sheridan and Karen Foran
Mairead O’Connor and Triona O’Connor
Niamh Hennessy, Sean Taaffe and Grace Madden
Ken O’Connor and Kim McGann
Brendan Courtney and Sean Taaffe cut the ribbon
scene
Champagne supernova The party doesn’t stop at Sean Taaffe Hair & Beauty as the group opened its fifth salon in Kerry, this time in Tralee. Doing the honours on the night was TV personality Brendan Courtney, who brought his sense of good style to the proceedings. A total of 200 guests were in attendance and enjoyed champagne, canapés, hair and make-up demonstrations, special offers and spot prizes. Sean Taaffe treated the crowds to a hair show, featuring fantasy, occasion, commercial and bridal hair looks that showed-off all of the salon’s new service offerings, which include a Beauty Room, Bridal Suite and Nail Bar.
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Vicky Galvin and Rossa Donagher
Kenneth Campbell, managing director, L’Oréal Professional Products
Sarah Power, Elaine Flaherty, Mariesa Travers and Rosemary Donagher
What better way to start the New Year then to jet to Las Vegas, followed by San Francisco, for six days of creative and business innovation at the Redken Symposium. The biennial event, attended by top salons from all over the world, including Origin Hair Design, winners of Color Runway at Redken’s NYC Hair Awards, who were in tow as part of their prize package. Also on board were Reds, Rossano’s Group and Jennifer Foley Hair and Beauty. In total, 10,000 Redken-obsessed hairdressers took up residence at THEhotel at the Mandalay Bay Resort and Casino for three days of seminars and events, combining everything from runway colour trends to business know-how. The event opened with a gala presentation of huge proportions, which featured presentations from legendary stylists including Sam Villa, Rodney Cutler and Kris Sorbie. Days two and three offered advanced business and creative education with Redken ambassadors. As the global Symposium came to a close, Irish and UK delegates headed to the Clift Hotel in San Francisco for a Business Summit, where Sarah Power, general manager for Redken Ireland and UK, gave a sneak preview of an upcoming brand collaboration with rag & bone. Linda Macchi, US Redken artist and colourist, shared her experience on how to turn every client into a colour one and Dhaniel Doud, Redken education and development manager for colour and texture US, identified digital, nature and hyper-personalisation to be huge for 2013. It’s fair to say everyone left prepared to do a stellar year of business.
Tara Downes, Jennifer Foley, Una McGuirk and Fergal O’Connor
West Side story
Chris Moody
Adam Browne
scene
22/2/13 14:24:58
COLOUR THIS GREAT IS NEVER CREATED AT HOME
EXCLUSIVELY IN SALONS
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Face the future Imagine a front of house terminal that assists with client management, reservations and sales data support, all while saving you money. Introducing the Casio VR-100, run on Android
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Creative Head
Promotion
Android is a technology we are all used to in the smartphone market. Ireland in particular is leading the boom in the uptake of Android phones and tablets. So if we place this much importance on smart technology to organise our social and family life, then why wouldn’t we use it for business? Enter the Casio VR-100 business support terminal – a device that puts you in control of important business matters and a huge step up from a traditional PC-based management system. The Casio VR-100, run on an Android platform, is a smartly engineered, all-in-one system, designed for a wide selection of salon retail, management and customer service procedures. Essentially it’s an unmatched digital front of house manager, equipped with customer relationship management capabilities, and reservation and sales management applications to help grow your business. And with an optional cash drawer, the terminal can also function as a payment system. The device is equipped with a colour touch screen display, a sub-display that is great for showing information to customers and a built-in printer to generate receipts. Designed for use in small to medium-sized salon businesses, it works as a standalone system or as part of a networked system with other salon branches. For busy managers and salon owners on the go, you can even check
sales data from a separate location. Client relationship and reservation management applications include being able to view the purchase frequency of individual customers, which can then be used to identify preferred customers and formulate marketing strategies tailored to them. Operators can send emails to a list of preferred clients who have agreed to receive them, or they can specify automatic discounts when ringing up bills for selected customers. The VR-100 also enables salons to conduct a multitude of sales calculations, including by product, time and clerk. Further management applications include a database of customer names and details. These clients can receive messages on mobile phones or email, and can automatically execute instructions contained in the messages such as booking for a discounted offer or a product deal. Environmental issues are at the forefront of many business decisions today, and the VR-100 hardware platform delivers here as well. It consumes considerably less power than a conventional PC-based EPOS system, requiring only 20 watts on full power and 4.1 watts in standby mode. This is a saving of more than 85 per cent when compared with most PC-based EPOS systems. Indeed, when looking at new ways to improve your business one thing’s for sure, the Casio VR-100 wins hands down.
“The Casio VR-100 is an unmatched digital front of house manager, equipped with customer relationship capabilities, reservation and sales management applications to help grow your business”
s t a t s e Th
Conventional PC EPOS
Power rating standby Average cost of power used on Standby for 12 hours, over 365 days Average cost of power used,Fully on 12 hours, over 365 days Total average cost over 365 days
VR-100 Android EPOS
30 watts
4.1 watts
E22.87
E3.12
E114.40
E15.25
E137.26
E18.37
For more information, call 0044 20 8450 9131 or visit www.casio.co.uk
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The Green First Collection by Giovannoni Design for Maletti
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Eco Feature
Down to earth Green products, services and salons are no longer seen as a novelty or niche offering, but simply hair at its best. We highlight how a few small steps can lead to great change You can try as hard as you like to avoid it, but you can’t get away from green this year – clothing, make-up, manicures, furniture. Colour authority Pantone has spoken, and emerald green is the colour of 2013. But it’s more than a colour choice, it’s a statement that reflects a deeper trend – that environmental and ethical concerns are an important part of brand identity. With sustainability increasingly becoming what is expected of brands, it’s important to keep up. Thankfully, it’s not all that hard to do. Whether you want to give your salon an eco makeover or gradually build towards a more eco-friendly business, there are lots of measures that can amount to great things.
Style salvage If you want to improve your green credentials, your salon interior is a good a place to start. Something as simple as using eco-friendly paint from brands such as Earthborn and Auro will help the environment and prove a great talking point with clients, and instead of opting for massproduced furniture, you can outfit your salon reception with salvaged or antique furniture from a local supplier. Alternatively, if you have something specific in mind, why not employ a local carpenter to build your interiors instead? Not only will you be able to create a bespoke
salon that uses local raw materials, you’ll also be able to tailor your salon to your needs. At eco-friendly salon Roco in Northern Ireland, joint owners Ronan Stewart and Connor Grant did just that. “We used a local carpenter to source materials and then worked with him to create our interior,” says Ronan. “Not only were we able to support regional businesses, we reduced our carbon footprint because the materials didn’t need to be transported.” For Mark Doherty, owner of SitStil on Dublin’s Drury Street, salvaged materials are a no-brainer. “Our salon is a work in progress and we’re always trying to become more eco-friendly. The stations are made out of recycled metals, our flooring is from sustainable sources and we’re currently trying to obtain reclaimed wood to refresh the floor.” But what if you want the guarantee that a leading manufacturer can offer? Is it possible to get the same environmentally-friendly ethos? Italian furniture company Maletti is proof that going green doesn’t mean you have to compromise on style. Its Presence Paris collection comprises three ranges with impressively green credentials. Think luxurious, sleek and stylish curved wood, eco-leather and recycled materials that look brand new. Plasticising agents are derived from natural seed oils, fabrics are made from natural fibres and padding is made from BiOH,
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SitStil salon
Eco Feature
a soya bean material. In addition, the shower heads on all basins are designed to use up to 30 per cent less water than normal basins and the Maletti factory has been certified ‘Carbon Zero’ for emissions.
Saving with grace Your salon may look the part, but how can it act the part, too? You need to look at energy and water-saving measures, and the products and tools you use. In the long run, better environmental business practices will save you money and are a selling point to clients who demand a more eco-friendly service. A big impact can be made through a small change, such as switching to energy-efficient light bulbs. “All our light fittings are CFL light bulbs, which drastically reduce the amount of energy we use,” says SitStil’s Mark Doherty. Ronan from Roco reveals that it’s not just energy you can save. “Being more eco-friendly is cheaper in the longrun. By turning off all the lights at night, washing towels at a cooler temperature and using energy-efficient bulbs, you save money.” Roco has also fitted the front of its salon with saveheat glass, which helps trap sunlight to heat the salon during the winter months and block out heat on warmer summer days. If you’re unsure about where to start and what
changes will have the most impact on your salon, then the Enterprise Ireland Environment and Green Technology team can help you to incorporate sustainable practices into the day-to-day running of your business. Envirocentre.ie is an online portal that allows you to determine how much it will cost your business to become more environmentallyfriendly, allow you to calculate your carbon emissions and gives you tips on how to reduce waste. Its Green Start programme offers small businesses a simple approach that you can integrate into your existing salon. Solar panels are another excellent way of reducing your energy consumption, and the government has implemented a Better Energy Scheme to help. It shows you how to easily reduce energy output and how to go about switching to renewable energy sources. Water wastage, too, is an area that requires attention. While ‘reuse and recycle’ is the usual eco-friendly motto, there is one exception to the rule – Easydry, a 100 per cent bio-degradable alternative to a cotton or linen towel, founded in Ireland. The towel is used once and then disposed of, meaning laundering and labour costs associated with washing and drying are no more. But what about salon owners who are sceptical about the long-term costs – surely it’s cheaper for salons to launder their own towels? The financial saving is as much as 20 per cent, as
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The Green First Collection by Giovannoni Design for Maletti
Creative Head Promotion Promotion
In good hands
Roco salon
Ronan Stewart
Forward-thinking hairdressers reveal why they love Easydry
electricity and man-hours are reduced, so you can increase your time in the salon and make full use of your staff. One salon that advocates this is Storm in Malahide. “I have so much more time now to spend with my clients as there is no need to waste it folding, washing and drying regular towels,” says owner Lisa Cunningham. “We also save money on detergent, fabric softener and electricity.” Easydry founder Anne Butterly and her team have conducted extensive research that claims by using Easydry, a salon with four stylists that’s open five days a week will save 60,000 litres of water a year. And what a lot of salons don’t know is that the water they use to wash their towels is clean drinking water. “There are more than 3,000 salons in the Republic of Ireland. If they changed to Easydry, they would save 180 million litres of water. And they would save more than two tonnes of CO2,” Anne reveals. Additional water-saving measures can also be achieved by ditching bottled water and investing in an efficient water filter or integrated tap. Vi Tap from Vivreau provides chilled or boiled water at the touch of a button, as well as cutting down on the transportation of bottled water. The environmentally-unfriendly pitfall water wastage is something that SitStil owner Mark is very conscious of. “We have fitted a double water heater, which reduces the amount of energy needed to give us our constant supply of
Like all good hairdressers and salon managers, Easydry is always thinking about the future. Innovation and invention are its guiding principles and it always makes sure its range of towels and capes are hygienic, eco-friendly and cost-effective. This might seem like a tall order, but Easydry loves a challenge, which is why the brand is constantly thinking
about how it can make stylists’ lives easier, and their salon service first-rate. The result? Individual, disposable towels that are soft, gentle on hair and skin, incredibly light, super-absorbent, and environmentally friendly. We could go on, but instead we thought you’d rather hear from the forwardthinking stylists who use the products…
“Easydry towels are not only soft, light and highly absorbent, but our clients and team comment on how good they look. We wouldn’t go back to the hassle and cost of laundering cotton towels when all we need do is pick up a beautifully folded Easydry, confident it will do a better job than a traditional towel” Sean Taaffe, Sean Taaffe Hair & beauty
“We love Easydry towels as they ensure a hygenic, personalised service. Brand new individual towels are all part of the service and ensure a great experience for the client” Daniella MacKenzie, Andrew Barton Salons For more information on stocking Easydry in your salon, call 042 939 4318 or visit www.easydry.com
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hot water. It’s a two-thermostat system – an upper and lower – that heats water in its tank one element at a time, so you’re only using what you need.” Swapping the internal mesh on your showerheads with a part called a top hat, which costs a few euros and can be found at most home improvement retailers, can also aid further water savings.
All on board According to recent findings from Exxon Mobile, energy consumption will grow by 40 per cent in the next 20 years, so what are product manufacturers doing to try to offset this? One brand dedicated to protecting the environment is Davines. To offset its environmental impact, Davines has used renewable energy to supply its plants and offices since 2006, and in 2009 the company devised the Davines Research Charter – a list of eco-objectives it strives to achieve when making its products. The charter involves using organic, eco-certified and biodegradable ingredients as well as minimising temperatures during production and reducing water consumption. When these measures are followed, every product formulated, designed and produced is obtained with 100 per cent renewable energy. Similarly Kemon, distributed by Xpert Professional Haircare in Ireland, is committed to protecting the
environment. The company uses 100 per cent clean electricity from renewable sources and has received the ISO14001 certification for its extensive efforts to minimise its environmental impact. For some companies, self-sufficiency is the only way to ensure environmental credentials, and Joico strives to deliver high quality, cutting-edge products while protecting the planet. Joico uses its own on-site turbine to power its manufacturing plant in the US and in doing so has reduced energy consumption by 70 per cent. Last year it saved 18,000 litres of fuel by re-routing transportation – the same carbon benefit as planting 8,000 trees – its packaging contains up to 70 per cent recycled materials and also prints on 100 per cent recycled paperboard. Refills are another great way to reduce energy consumption and waste and encourage staff and clients to recycle. At Storm in Malahide the salon uses Aveda products and all products are stored in 100 per cent recycled bottles and jars. And it’s not just manufacturing processes that are better. Increasingly, the bigger professional brands have dedicated lines that offer a more conscientious product, such as Matrix Biolage and Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essensity, which extends to colour, care and style. L’Oréal Professionnel’s série nature range includes the ECOCERT-
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Eco Feature
certified Oilixir, while Redken’s Nature’s Rescue is paraben, sulphate and silicone-free. Often, the eco-option is not only the more mindful choice but the more luxurious one – just look at the success of Pureology; the beauty editor’s favourite brand is sulphate-free, vegan and also contains botanical extracts. Hair colour has joined the green game, too, begging the question: why opt for a chemical-rich service when you can go without so many of the nasties? More than two-thirds of hair dyes contain PPDs – a chemical substance that’s effective at covering greys but linked to a host of health complaints. Other potential causes for concern are ammonia, parabens and resorcinol. Not only are these chemicals being applied to our skin and inhaled, they’re then being washed into the water supply. Eco-friendly and organic ranges can produce the same high-end results but are more gentle on the hair so your clients feel their hair is becoming healthier and better cared for. Coloringreen, Kemon’s new tone-on-tone colouring system, is a gel cream with a base of natural, organic ingredients. Containing honey and marshmallow, the formula protects the scalp and is especially good for clients with sensitive skin. Similarly, So Pure Color from Keune is inspired by nature and driven by luxury. Available in 35 intermixable
shades, its ammonia and paraben free, enriched with certified organic plant extracts. To add to this, it includes a unique PhytoKeratin complex – a plant based extract with natural keratin to deeply penetrate the hair and restore structure, all the while delivering 100 per cent grey coverage. With products promising less scalp irritation, less staining and a farewell to nasty odours, it makes more and more sense to cross over to greener offerings. Another colour brand known for its ecological stance is Organic Colour Systems. Alternatively, the main colour houses have unveiled their own ammonia-free options, such as ColorInsider from Matrix, INOA by L’Oréal Professionnel, Goldwell’s Nectaya, Chromatics from Redken and Essensity by Schwarzkopf Professional. When it comes to hair tools, newer models will be more efficient and use less electricity. Some, such as the award-winning Express Ion Dry range from Paul Mitchell Pro Tools, are designed to be as efficient as possible and have low emissions. Of course, you can always create your own power. Sunlight and even heat from the ground beneath your feet can be used as power generators. Ultimately, small changes can yield big results and there’s never been a better or more exciting time to turn your salon green from the inside out. n
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ready to
TURN
HEADS.
Discover the new JOICO Available in leading salons across Europe, Africa and the Middle-East
joicoeurope.com
fresh thinking on business
Meet & Mix
Talk shop with your hairdressing heroes – face to face Andrew Barton Dylan Bradshaw Errol Douglas MBE Carolyn Newman Ken West
Working Lunch
Help yourself to a delicious lunch, and discuss your business needs with top hairdressing brands Goldwell KMS California 3.6.5 American Dream Diva Professional Styling Easydry Millennium Software MyHairDressers.com The Hair Group
Main stage speakers
All of these stars, on stage and upfront! Gary Hooker & Michael Young Sharleen Hunter The John Carne Team Richard Phillipart Esther & Tommy van der Veken Ken West Nick Wood
Salon Smart Creates
Learn how to shoot for success! The photographer: John Rawson, The Rawson Partnership The hairdressers: Darren Webster and Lisa Whiteman, Webster Whiteman The PR: Sharleen Hunter, Unleashed Potential The magazine editor: Lauren Margrave, Creative HEAD
Get everything you need to grow your business
28-29 April 2013 Park Plaza Riverbank, London
Book your Salon Smart tickets now Call +44 (0)1434 610944
For more information visit www.creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
ss_promo_feb13.indd 4
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Salon Smart is presented by
Sponsored by
Think Tank
A unique opportunity to put your burning business questions to an expert panel, this live, 60-minute Q&A session is invigorating, enlightening, and 100 per cent inspirational!
In association with
Art team exposé
Up close and personal with Trevor Sorbie and his award-winning Art Team. Watch, listen and learn as this exceptional creative team reveals tips, tricks and techniques, and wows with live hair work and captivating moving imagery
Dinner is served
Enjoy a relaxing three-course dinner with wine in the company of fellow delegates, big brands, and great names – all sharing the same goal as you: to do business in style!
… in two action-packed days
Tickets cost e193 per person* Includes the full two-day business programme, all meals and refreshments, gala dinner and hair show, and overnight 4-star accommodation on Sunday 28 April *Price based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £50 (€58) single room supplement applies. €113 day pass (Monday only) tickets also available. Visit www.creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart for more information. The right of admission is strictly reserved to the Park Plaza Riverbank and Salon Smart. Tickets payable in sterling, charged at £169 and £99, respectively.
ss_promo_feb13.indd 5
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SubscriBE
Subscribe
and you shall receive‌
FREE! The new Schwarzkopf Professional intensive care BC Fibre Force range, worth
*
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GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE l
Award-winning business advice, fashion and industry news, all wrapped up in one glossy issue
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Plus! The entire new BC Fibre Force retail range from Schwarzkopf Professional, including Fibre Force Shampoo, Conditioner, Spray Conditioner and Treatment. The results of the intensive care products will see up to 100 per cent more strength, up to 95 per cent less hair breakage** and hair that feels new and restored to optimal levels, from the inside out. l
Creative HEAD Ireland for 12 months, e75 Subscriptions hotline 01 617 7947 *Terms and conditions apply, visit www.creativeheadmag.com for details. **When used with the whole Fibre Force regime versus untreated hair
Creative Head Ireland 42
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fashion my This is ite favour e o r m th image f Jewels Living on. It’s collecti highand simple urreal tech, s inine yet fem
We created this look on natural coloured hair. First we bleached the random areas we wanted to colour before we applied the bright colours separately
els ing Jew The Liv on collecti ed by is inspir eetles. Jewel B mall These s have insects ily rdinar extrao , glossy t n e c irides s r colou
I shot with photographer Andrew O'Toole as we work really well together. We have a good understanding of how each other works and we also have fun
k I try to loo e k li s g n at thi , st an arti rather than just a hairdresser
This model has a natural beauty and it gave us a blank canvas to create something very special
Storyboard Angelo Seminara takes us through the paces of a look from Living Jewels – a colour-rich collection from Davines
Creative Head Ireland 43
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a ar io n i e… em nofr d S si elo D’O n i Ang bio t up Fa s i m ro om mp f fr pu es MORE on lay bo t el isp Ti jew de d lon tra esi Sa Ex Stat A
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Jewel prodigy A spontaneous inspection of beetles led to an intelligent triumph from Angelo Seminara. Highlighting the creative power of nature, Living Jewels flouts gravity and is a sublime display of colour Photography Andrew O’Toole
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Fashion Promotion
Artistic director Angelo Seminara for Davines Colour specialist Edoardo Paludo Make-up Denise Rabor Styling Leticia Dare
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Block party Italian hair artist Fabio D’Onofrio heads Stateside to explore the bold, gritty beauty of downtown New York. The results? Mash-Up!
Photography Lauren baker
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Fashion
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Hair Fabio D’Onofrio at TWA Make-up Isabel Ruiz Styling Chloe Badawy Nails Rie Okusa
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Hair Fabio D’Onofrio at TWA Make-up Isabel Ruiz Styling Chloe Badawy Nails Rie Okusa
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Royal fervour Religion, royalty and fantasy are the inspirations behind Crown & Glory, Thomas Behan’s latest collection for Salon Tibo, featuring pumped up volumes and ornamented headwear
Photography Tim McDonald
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Fashion
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Hair Thomas Behan at Salon Tibo Head pieces Salon Tibo Creative Team Make-up Cliona Kelly
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r u n w a y L C : M by n um b e r s
Lo n do n
C o ll e c t i o n s :
M e n
One season on since breaking free from the brawny bookend of London Fashion Week, London Collections: Men (LC:M) has moved forward with a fierce momentum. Now the opening act for international collections, some of fashion’s biggest players relocated for the A/W13 schedule, including Tom Ford and Alexander McQueen. Add to that freshly hatched talent and the schedule was extended by an extra day to accommodate more than 60 designers – London Fashion Week womenswear schedule had 89 last season. LC:M launched with an event hosted by UK Prime Minister David Cameron at 10 Downing Street and a GQ dinner hosted by Sir Paul Smith, Tinie Tempah and chairman of LC:M and GQ editor, Dylan Jones. Of course, hair had a major presence, too, as Fudge built on its strong male grooming heritage to become the official hair partner. As well as providing styling products and sponsorship for a number of shows, Fudge also hosted The Fudge Fix – a dedicated salon and lounge located at London’s The Hospital Club throughout the three days of shows.
E d i t e d
b y
S a r a h
M a n l e y
*Mintel (between 2011 and 2016) **Bain & Company
Xander Zhou
16% Expected growth of the men’s market* 50% The slice that luxury menswear claims** 45 Countries represented by press at LC:M 17 Countries flying in buyers
Creative Head Ireland 54
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A lpha
males
E. Tautz
T h e A to YMC o f o n - s c h ed u l e A / W13 d es i g n ers
p u sh
it
real
g oo d
Men’s fashion is a tough place for creatives to find their feet, especially when up-and-coming stars have to go head-to-head with the moneyed powerhouses. So what’s a designer to do? Well, a range of mentorship programmes now support more than 20 per cent of LC:M designers, offering sponsorship, business advice and introductions to press and buyers. First off the mark was Topman and Fashion East, with their joint initiative established eight years ago. For A/W13, Astrid Andersen, Agi&Sam and Craig Green presented. NewGen Men, which followed in 2009, is also sponsored by Topman and has become another instrumental platform for eight designers a year. For A/W13, the collective featured some of the most exciting names in menswear – Lee Roach, Sibling, Shaun Samson and Mathew Miller. The most recent addition is the British Fashion Council, which offers support to four menswear designers through the Fashion Forward initiative, sponsored by eBay. For A/W13, E. Tautz, J.W. Anderson, James Long and Christopher Shannon were recipients.
“ T h e m e n s w e a r s h o w s a r e a l o t m o r e c h i l l e d . I s p e n d a p e r c e n t a g e o f m y t i m e c h a s i n g a f t e r m o d e l s w h o a r e a s l e e p u n d e r t a b l e s – t h e y p a r t y a l o t a t n i g h t ” J a m e s P e c i s , b a c k s t a g e f o r F u d g e a t M e a d h a m K i r c h h o f f
Alexander McQueen
Qaisimi Homme
A ll
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A/ Agi&Sam Aitor Throup Alexander McQueen Angelo Galasso Astrid Andersen B/ Baartsman and Siegel Bally Belstaff Burberry C/ C.P. Company Christopher Kane Christopher Raeburn Christopher Shannon Craig Green E/ E. Tautz H/ Hackett London Hardy Amies London Hentsch Man Hunter Gather J/ J.W Anderson James Long John Smedley Jonathan Saunders K/ Katie Eary L/ Lee Roach Lou Dalton M/ MAN
Margaret Howell Martine Rose Matthew Miller Meadham Kirchhoff Mr. Hare Mr. Start N/ Nicole Farhi Nutters of Savile Row x Peter Werth O/ Oliver Spencer Orlebar Brown P/ Pretty Green Q Qasimi Homme R/ Rake Richard James Richard Nicoll S/ Savile Row Shaun Samson Sibling T/ Tom Ford Topman Design V/ Vivienne Westwood Man X/ Xander Zhou Y/ YMC
abroa d
If your name wasn’t down or you weren’t working from the backstage trenches, there was still plenty of opportunity to get involved with LC:M. The BFC got digital this season, offering engagement through live streaming, social media and digi-presentations. For starters, all the shows from The Hospital Club: Show Space – the central LC:M hub – were streamed live, as well as the Topman Design’s show and Hackett. Highlights on social media included a Twitter takeover from editor of Men’s Health Toby Wiseman, and model Oliver Cheshire. Designer Lou Dalton shared her LC:M experience on Pinterest, with a Pinboard documenting her inspirations and preparations ahead of the show, as well as backstage shots. Twitter and Pinterest users got to chip-in, too, by contributing to an online archive of menswear street style photos. The tweets and pins were then collated into a dedicated pinboard and Facebook album to provide a crowd-sourced collection of the best style. Creative Head Ireland 55
22/2/13 14:26:30
Heads Images courtesy of Bumble and bumble, Fudge, L’Oréal Professionnel, Sassoon and Toni&Guy
The
looks
that
up
stormed
Qasimi Homme Where: A sky-lit space at Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, Flitcroft Street, London. Hair: Sam Burnett and the Rush team for L’Oréal Professionnel. The look: Dramatic hair obscuring the eyes. Lengthened fringes were brushed and twisted over the cheeks; hair was prepped with tecni art London Addixion Bouncy Wax. The collection: Inspired by Film Noir, secret soirées and American Psycho, the collection featured tailored men’s separates with standout metallic fabrics of black and emerald.
LC:M
X ander Zhou Where: At the hub for LC:M – The Hospital Club, Endel Street, London. Hair: Bruce Masefield and the Sassoon team. The look: Clean, extreme gloss and graphic partings, in line with the designers love for the early ’90s youth culture. The collection: Echoed the reflection of street culture with a distinctly utilitarian, sci-fi influence.
Richard
Nicoll
Where: BFC Show Space: The Old Sorting Office, New Oxford Street, London. Hair: Shon for Fudge. The look: Strong, structured and Northern European. Fudge Body Builder Booster was applied to prep the hair, which was dried straight with a round brush and dragged back, away from the face and ironed. The collection: A modern uniform inspired by post-punk, brutalist architecture and classic essentials. B o bb y
Ab l e y
Ba artmans and
Where: 3 Carlton Gardens, London with a spaceship on site. Hair: Liam Curran for Bumble and bumble. The look: A ’60s style with a deep side-parting, which was prepped with Bb Tonic. The central look was created by using ultra high-shine Bb Extra Strength Holding Spray with futuristic silver glitter along the parting. The collection: Quirky influences from outer space, UFO emblems and metallics.
Siegel
Where: Morning popcorn at The Odeon, Shaftesbury Avenue, London. Hair: Jody Taylor for Toni&Guy. The look: Teddy boy meets ballroom mash-up for slicked-back ’50s quiffs with a slight finger wave. Hair was prepped with label.m Gel, dried and styled with a label.m Pin Tail Comb, using Label.m Hold & Gloss to finish. The collection: Entitled ‘A Warrior’s Heart’, the range sought to show a transition to manhood as slouchy looks were teamed with strict tailoring.
Creative Head Ireland 56
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Meadham Kirchhoff
Christopher Shannon
Th e lo n g s h o r t o f
Christopher Shannon
Maarten Van Der Horst
Whether models were cast with long or short hair, one of the key messages this season was to go long. At Meadham Kirchhoff, genderblending styles prevailed, with looks inspired by French actress Catherine Deneuve and former US Harper’s Bazaar editor, Diana Vreeland. Here, blown-out hair was set in curls, directed off the face and teamed with an Alice band. “This luxurious set juxtaposes the clothing and gives fresh new direction to men’s fashion,” said James Pecis, who was backstage for Fudge. Similarly at Maarten Van Der Horst, models were cast not for their length but for other reasons. “Heavy metal meets grunge,” were the buzzwords from Naoki Komiya for Bumble and bumble. And over at Christopher Shannon, where the designer had been referencing Dark Days, a documentary that followed people living in the train tunnels of New York, John Vial for Fudge worked extensions into the boys’ manes. “Christopher wanted the hair to look slightly nerdy and have a finish as though it hasn’t been washed in a few days. The side-swept parting makes it look a little more neat and presentable for the catwalk.”
“ T h e r e a r e s o m a n y i n c r e d i b l e m e n s w e a r d e s i g n e r s t h a t f a l l j u s t u n d e r t h e r a d a r . T h e i n c r e a s e d n u m b e r o f m e n s w e a r c o l l e c t i o n s w i l l h o p e f u l l y g i v e t h e m a h i g h e r p r o f i l e ” L a u r a D o m i n i q u e , b a c k s t a g e m a k e - u p a r t i s t
John
Vial,
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creative
director
talks
bag
kit
for
essentials
“My kit bag contains every conceivable size of tongs – my BaByliss PROs are my favourite because you can control the heat. I have a fabric hood dryer, YS Park round styling brushes, Mason Pearson brushes, tail brushes and wigs from Passage de L’Industrie in Paris, Matador tail combs, and pins and grips from Ray’s in New York. I use American Dream weave (always 100 per cent human hair), which I colour every hue with the Fudge Paintbox colour shades. I always carry at least one of everything from the Fudge styling range. When working I need an endless supply of Diet Coke, Altoids and peanuts! I can’t survive without my iPhone and Blackberry, so I always have my chargers at hand. I carry my kit in two BaByliss PRO pull-along suitcases made by Eastpak, and the essentials in my Mulberry Piccadilly.”
James Long
Christopher Shannon
Fudge,
John Vial
a n d it
Creative Head Ireland 57
22/2/13 10:45:37
THE LAST WORD
Don’t recreate – initiate
Innovation should be at the heart of your business if it’s to be you and not your competitors who leads the way, says Anne Butterly
The business is ticking over nicely, you have a strong team and your clients are happy, so what do you do? It’s tempting, after the rocky first years of setting up a salon, to sit back and take a bit of time-out, but that’s the last thing you should do. You must stay hungry, you must stay alert and you must stay enthusiastic – you’ve got a team and a business to lead. If you become complacent, all your hard work can quickly unravel. A strong business leader constantly questions the way things are done, has a vision that is always evolving, keeps an open mind about new ideas and embraces change. Being a dynamic leader brings an energy to a brand that keeps it ahead of its competitors and its team motivated. At Easydry, we look at how salons operate and then develop solutions to try and help make things better and more eco-friendly, allowing teams to focus on their clients. It’s always easier to imitate than innovate, to recreate than initiate, but you should thrive on innovation and creating products that will change the industry. It’s not in my DNA to sit back and say: ‘Hey, we’re doing okay, let’s have a bit of a breather,’ and it shouldn’t be in yours. Keeping your brand alive and energetic will keep you ahead. You might have to take risks – innovation often means just that. It’s nerve-wracking. I gave up a great job
because I was convinced I had invented something that would really help salons. I then had to find an innovative way to convince hairdressers that I was right. I’m getting there but it’s not easy. It might never have worked. And your own innovation might not work but if you don’t try, how can you advance? Every forward-thinking company I know is constantly updating its five and 10-year business plans to incorporate new developments. Innovative stylists are out there doing more beyond the salon – you’ll see their salon name frequently in magazines as they value-market themselves as a way to keep their teams (and clients) interested in and motivated about the brand. These guys don’t sit around pondering new possibilities. They act on them. As soon as someone has a good idea, look to see if it is feasible and waste no time making it a reality. You can be open to new technologies that improve your service and your client care, you can invest in your team’s continuous development and you can breed a sense of hunger for the new within your brand so that it is you, and not your competitors, who lead the way. Anne Butterly is founder and managing director of Easydry, the revolutionary disposable eco towel founded in Ireland. Want to have your say? Email Sarah@headmag.ie
Creative Head Ireland 58
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20.02.2013 01:14
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