Creative HEAD Ireland March/April 2016 by Alfol Publishing

€7.50 MARCH/APRIL 2016

In print ● online ● everywhere!

IRELAND

MARCH/APRIL 2016

BLAZE OF GLORY LET COLOUR TRANSFORM YOUR SALON

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#MADETOCREATE

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E T A E R C O T E D A M # Osis(sized).indd 2

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

GET READY TO CREATE YOUR OWN SIGNATURE STYLE! As a hairdresser, you were born to create. To set new trends, break new ground, reinvent beautyâ&#x20AC;Ś Hair is your art and your passion, what you were put on this earth to do. Now itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to live your talent with the most inspiring and creative styling brand in the hairdressing industry. Redefine your hairstyling world with the new-look OSiS+ from Schwarzkopf Professional. Designed just for you, the professional hairdresser, and with a unique new looks-based approach to styling, OSiS+ gives you the power to create new trends and make your clients feel fashion-fabulous, thanks to breakthrough formulas that ensure your work stays one step ahead of the competition.

New OSiS+. Made to create.

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MEET NEW

OSiS+ SO WHAT’S NEW? A streamlined collection of 28 incredible, high-performance products – including some awe-inspiring breakthrough new technologies – that deliver style, texture and finish possibilities like never before. New OSiS+ looks good, too. The distinctive red-and-silver packaging has been upgraded for a new era with edgy shapes and premium materials to create an urban feel that appeals to both men and women. Meanwhile, unique coloured formulas and high-performing heroes create a range that’s fun to use and that clients will love. And finally, a new looks-based approach – captured in a stunning new trend-based OSiS+ collection – that makes choosing the right product for your style so much quicker and easier than ever before.

Let’s create!

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PREP

STYLE

VOLUME

SLEEK

CURLS

LIGHT CONTROL

UNDERCOAT

UPLOAD

CURL HONEY

BIG BLAST

BOUNCY CURLS

BLOW & GO

MEDIUM CONTROL

HAIRBODY

PRIME PREP

BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL NEVER STANDS STILL. NOW YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS CAN STAKE THE CLAIM “MADE TO CREATE”

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GRIP

STYLING RANGE, OSiS+

ULTRA STRONG

THE FIRST LOOK-BASED

TAME WILD

MADE TO CREATE!

FLATLINER

STRONG CONTROL

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SESSION

WHIPPED WAX

G FORCE

THRILL

SHINE

ELASTIC

FINISH

MAGIC

SPARKLER

DUST IT

REFRESH DUST

MATTE

FREEZE

FREEZE PUMP

MESS UP

VOLUME UP

DAMPED

SHINE

MIGHTY MATTE

FLEXWAX

PLAY TOUGH

ROCK HARD

TEXTURE CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

FIX

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HE’S MADE TO CREATE!

MEET INTERNATIONAL OSiS+ AMBASSADOR, RICHARD ASHFORTH Richard Ashforth creates hair that is wearable and suitable, always flattering the individual. He’s grown his SACO salon and education brand into a massively influential global force, has styled hair at all the international fashion weeks, and has created editorial photo-shoots with renowned photographers like Peter Lindbergh. Plus, his awardwinning NOISE hair show has popped up everywhere from Paris to London to Tokyo to Moscow, providing a platform for self-expression to some of the industry’s greatest names. As a true creative pioneer, he’s a natural choice for International OSiS+ Ambassador…

the hair, it immediately looks well-styled. It’s just brilliant! Tame Wild is fantastic for long hair. I use it before blow-drying or as a finisher. When used as a finishing product, it delivers shine and defines individual strands. What would you recommend to customers who prefer a more natural look? Even when creating a natural look, you still need a styling product. It’s the best way to add shine and definition to your hair. Today, styling is no longer about products that you can really see on the hair. The OSiS+ range is very broad-based; some product benefits can be seen in the hair, while others are virtually undetectable and strengthen and emphasize the hair structure. Whipped Wax is one of the products that works in the background. It’s soft and looks really natural.

Styling and creativity go together. How do the OSiS+ products encourage that? The quality of the OSiS+ products is simply fantastic. In salons, at shows and events, I need to be able to rely 100 per cent on my style essentials. What’s more, the brand is young, edgy and professional; Are there products you it stands for creativity, and that’s particularly like to use something that’s very important together? to me as a stylist. The products A good stylist will make are designed to be used to create recommendations to their upgraded professional looks in customers for the best the salon as well as trendy looks combination of products and look at home. Their style result is and will make tailored decisions indicated by the product names – about what products are best. In like Bouncy Curls or Mighty Matte. RICHARD ASHFORTH general, though, Undercoat and Lastly, the range is truly universal. Whipped Wax work really well together for me. It’s my favourite No matter what you want to do, and no matter what hair type you’re combination. When combining products, anything goes: just try it! dealing with, OSiS+ has the right products for you.

“IT’S ALL THE FUEL I NEED”

You’ve previously said you like shapes. Which products are best for creating them? I love Dust It. The volume powder gives you great shape and texture, fantastic volume and a wonderful matte finish. Big Blast also works really well. It gives the hair fullness and body, but in a very natural way. Is there an OSiS+ product that anyone can try? Mighty Matte instantly transforms your look. It’s great! It works best with short to medium-length hair. If you work Mighty Matte into

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If you consider all 28 products together, what would you say is the defining feature of the new OSiS+ range? The OSiS+ range encourages us to be creative and have fun. Users should experiment with the products and their look. Before they do that, hairstylists can show them how to get the best out of their style. With OSiS+, the customer doesn’t just leave the salon looking great – they can also create their own unique look at home. OSiS+ supports a versatile cut with so many styling options; the inspiration will never run dry.You can create a different look every day.

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#RE:CREATE

PAY CLOSE ATTENTION, BECAUSE OVER THE NEXT FEW PAGES INTERNATIONAL OSiS+ AMBASSADOR RICHARD ASHFORTH UNVEILS THE LOOKS THAT WILL MATTER IN YOUR SALON THIS SEASON – AND THE OSiS+ PRODUCTS THAT WILL MAKE THEM HAPPEN. TAKE A LOOK, BE INSPIRED AND TRY THEM OUT YOURSELF…

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UNDERCOAT

THIS FOUNDATION PRIMER EVENS OUT POROUS HAIR TO CREATE A VISUALLY FLAWLESS, SILKY-SMOOTH HAIR SURFACE. MAKES STYLING EASIER, ADDING MANAGEABILITY AND A HIGH SHINE TO HAIR.

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BIG BLAST

THE FIRST-EVER OSiS+ VOLUMISING LIGHTWEIGHT GEL DELIVERS TREMENDOUS LONG-LASTING VOLUME AND HOLD, YET HAIR RETAINS ITS NATURAL FEEL.

“This product gives great volume to all hair types through its lightweight performance. Apply onto midlengths and ends prior to blowdrying with a round brush or simply upsidedown finger-dry. So versatile, it can create both a glamorous red-carpet finish or casual ‘justoff-the-beach’ textures." -Richard

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TAME WILD

THE FIRST-EVER OSiS+ ALL-IN-ONE FRIZZ-TAMING CREAM CREATES A SILKY-SMOOTH HAIR SURFACE, TAMING EVEN THE MOST REBELLIOUS HAIR WITH AN ANTIFRIZZ, ANTI-HUMIDITY EFFECT THAT LASTS UP TO SEVEN DAYS.

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THIS INNOVATIVE STYLING CURL OIL-GEL SUPPORTS AND DEFINES FINE TO NORMAL CURLS, GIVING A BOUNCY RESULT WITH A NATURAL TOUCH.

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BOUNCY CURLS

“A midlength look that plays to the nature of the texture. Two panels of graduated lengths develop volume and give lengths a playful edge.” -Richard

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CURL HONEY

THIS HONEY-FRAGRANCED CURL CREAM TAMES EVEN THICK CURLS AND WAVES, CREATING A SILKY-SOFT RESULT WITH FABULOUS SHINE.

“This salonoriented long hair look utilises three panels of long, rounded disconnection. It’s a simple way to encourage movement within longer lengths – and the answer to the ‘I want a change but don’t want to lose any length or have a fringe’ conundrum!” -Richard

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THIS LIQUID POMADE IS PERFECT FOR CREATING ONTREND WET OR SEMI-DAMP LOOKS, ADDING TEXTURE, GRIP AND NATURAL SHINE FOR TRUE STYLING CONTROL.

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DAMPED

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PLAY TOUGH

THIS ULTRA-STRONG WATERPROOF GEL GIVES ALL THE HOLD, DEFINITION AND SHINE YOU COULD WISH FOR. IT’S EASY TO WORK WITH AND NON-STICKY TOO. RESULT!

“A contemporary take on a classic male look. Leaving a little length to the undercut back and sides provides hair to dress into a variety of textures and directions. The longer ‘foppish’ top can be left loose and scruﬀy, rolled back or slicked to the side.” -Richard

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A MATTIFYING WAX-FLUID THAT GIVES A ROUGHED-UP MATTE LOOK TO HAIR WITH GREAT SEPARATION AND TEXTURE.

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MIGHTY MATTE

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SLEEK

STYLE

HAIRBODY

UNDERCOAT

HAIR FOUNDATION VOLUME

PRIME PREP

MADE TO CREATE BUSY, BUSY, BUSY!

IN THE PRESSURE-COOKER CONDITIONS OF A BUSY DAY AT THE SALON,

TAME WILD

"It’s the PRODUCTall FOR THE STYLE fuelTO I need" YOU WANT CREATE.

BLOW & GO

– TO FIND THE RIGHT

GRIP

BEEN EASIER – OR FASTER

VOLUME UP

APPROACH, IT’S NEVER

BIG BLAST

OSIS+ LOOKS-BASED

UPLOAD

THANKS TO THE NEW

CREATE THE LOOK

TIME TO BE CONFUSED!

REFRESH DUST

THERE’S SIMPLY NO

TEXTURE

For more information call 0800 526741

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MAGIC

FINISH

SHINE

DUST IT

RICHARD ASHFORTH Style Creator Global Styling Ambassador

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TOUSLED TEXTURE + MATTE

WHIPPED WAX

THRILL

ROCK HARD

TEXTURE + SHINE

Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom

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SESSION

FREEZE

FREEZE PUMP

ELASTIC

SPARKLER

FIX

G FORCE

MESSUP

DUST IT

CURL HONEY

TEXTURE + FIRM

REFRESH DUST

TEXTURE

REFRESH DUST

TEXTURE

PLAY TOUGH

TEXTURE + PLAYFUL

DAMPED

POLISHED

STYLE

BOUNCY CURLS

WAVES

FLATLINER

HEAT PROTECTION CURLS STYLE

www.schwarzkopfpro.com

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SEE IT. WANT IT. GET IT Want to try one of the new eight hero products from the Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ range? We’ve got 50 to give away – which one will you get? To enter, visit creativeheadmag.com. The closing date is midnight, 31 March.

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WANT TO HAVE LOTS MORE FUN? Osis(sized).indd 24

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“CREATIVITY IS INTELLIGENCE HAVING FUN” ALBERT EINSTEIN

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To ďŹ nd out more about how to get creative with OSiS, 0800 526741 (UK), 01 4046424 (Ireland), visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom

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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

NEWS

INSPIRATION

BUSINESS

RUNWAY

EVENTS

STORE

COMPETITIONS

Victoria Beckham A/W16 courtesy of ghd

WATCH

Catch the latest trends from the international Fashion Week A/W16 catwalks

COMPETITION

Last chance to grab your tickets for Salon Smart 2016!

Could you be the winner of the Fudge Professional Paintbox giveaway?

Creative HEAD Magazine

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@creativeheadirl

Find out all you need to know about Most Wanted for Irish salons!

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Join the Platinum Revolution. CH Thats it DPS.indd 2

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A new treatment line is born, dedicated to those who choose to have boldly blonde of courageously white & grey hair. Formulas tailored to revive and give infinite reflections of light to hair whether it be natural or color-treated, while conditioning and softening, for hair that you can be truly proud of.

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Editor’s letter

hello...

IN THIS ISSUE we highlight the importance of keeping your front-of-salon in top shape, and grill industry leaders Dylan Bradshaw and Alan Keville on why sprucing up your shop is very good for business, from page 30. Then there’s Mark O’Keeffe, whose hairdressing empire continues to expand – he tells us how he juggles it all on page 36. All three are inspiring, innovative and always forward-facing – a winning combination for any business. And in a very exciting new development, UK hairdressing’s most prestigious competition, the Most Wanted Awards, now have two new categories open to Irish participants. So if you’re part of a Supreme Team or think you’ve got what it takes to be named Exceptional Stylist, then get cracking on that competition entry. And finally, more fantastic fashion to inspire you this spring, from page 40. Happy St Patrick’s Day!

Annette O’Meara Editor

annette@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 06

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Creative HEAD Magazine App CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

WOULD YOU LIKE TO GROW YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS AND DEVELOP YOUR TEAM TO BE THE BEST IN THE BUSINESS? The Master Colour Programme is a comprehensive business building course strategically developed to grow your skill, mastery and creativity. With a salon owner preview evening to help you select the right member of your team, a business building seminar designed specifically for the salon owner, and exclusive marketing and PR support, the programme is focussed on driving your salon’s colour business.

MASTER COLOUR PROGRAMME

YOUR GRADUATION

MCP BUSINESS DAY

MCC MEMBERSHIP

Our clients have noticed our improved consultation which has seen non colour clients now opting for that first time colour. It’s a hugely competitive industry so we need to offer a premium and bespoke service that clients can’t get anywhere else, the Master Colour Programme enables us to do this. Our team are renowned for their competition work and those who have completed MCP, I believe, have an increased confidence and knowledge and a keen competitive edge. DAVID CAMPBELL | HOUSE OF COLOUR DUBLIN

Sign up today to achieve excellence in colour and gain the highest level qualification in the industry. Please contact your Wella Account Manager or the Wella Studio Dublin. Wella Studio Dublin 01 4160900

For the latest Wella Education news become a fan of ‘Wella UK’ on Facebook. @wellapro

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March/April 2016

WHAT’S INSIDE 28

SCENE

House of Colour rewards its Trendsetters and future stars

ON THE COVER Hair: Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison, Schwarzkopf Professional global ambassadors Creative direction: Steve Hogan and Simon Ellis Photography: Karine Welter and Oliver Rust

SALON UP-DO

We see how Alan Keville and Dylan Bradshaw get it right up front, as well as future interiors trends

FASHION

Structure is everything in this texture-driven shoot from Sharon Malcolm

EDITOR ANNETTE O’MEARA

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

EDITOR IN CHIEF AMANDA NOTTAGE

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

ADVERTISING LAURA TUCKER

PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK

ART GRAEME WHITE

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN

creativeheadmag.com 08

Creative HEAD Magazine

WRITE TO US AT:

Creative HEAD Ireland 6-9 Trinity Street Dublin 2 01 617 7947 annette@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

@creativeheadirl

@creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

FOR UP TO 3 TIMES SMOOTHER HAIR* AND INSTANT LUMINOSITY

With camellia oil and white tea extract. www.wella.com

*shampoo, mask and oil vs. non conditioning shampoo

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04/02/2016 16:36

The edit A MASSIVE 25 PER CENT of salon clients visit the hairdresser just three times a year, according to a survey carried out by Great Lengths. Despite salons recommending that clients get their hair trimmed every six to eight weeks, the study has revealed that consumers won’t visit the salon until absolutely necessary. Amanda Jackson, principal educator for Great Lengths, said: “We’ve all been saying it for years, but the reality is that the message just isn’t getting through – very few clients are booking in for regular trims and root touch-ups. The good news is that this means there is plenty of potential to increase turnover.” One such way to encourage clients back is by rewarding loyalty, as Katherine Sweeney from Preen, explained: “To incentivise clients we have a reward points system whereby clients build up points for every euro they spend. These points are then redeemed against services.” Katherine agreed with the survey’s overall findings. “At Preen our core clients are very regular, returning on average every six to eight weeks, but we do have a percentage that only visit the salon about three times a year. I actually have a few clients who come to me for a yearly haircut every December!” Emmett Byrne of the Butcher Barber didn’t necessarily agree, arguing the male market is different: “A normal male client I see 10 to 12 times a year. Most are on a four to six-week cycle and that’s consistent throughout the year,” he explained. The Great Lengths survey, which was completed by 1,140 people in Ireland and the UK, covered hair washing and styling routines, salon visits and style influences. It also revealed that 77 per cent of respondents have worn hair extensions and 13 per cent were considering it.

Dylan Bradshaw

SALONS ARE ‘STRUGGLING TO BOOST VISITS’

Anderson’s Hair

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

MOST WANTED WANTS YOU!

WANT TO BE the next big thing in Irish hairdressing? Then enter the 2016 Most Wanted Awards! Presented by Creative HEAD in London and celebrating creative skills alongside business excellence and judged by high-profile experts, this is the awards event of the year! In 2016 – for the first time ever – Most Wanted is expanding with two categories exclusively for stylists and

salons in the Republic of Ireland. The first new trophy is Exceptional Stylist, and is awarded to a stylist who demonstrates remarkable artistic skill, ability and commercial awareness; the second is Supreme Team, which acknowledges salon teamwork at its best. The closing date for entries is Monday 16 May – so get stuck in! See page 12 for more, or visit creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted

‘THE CUSTOMER IS KING’ AT PHOREST SUMMIT STUDIES SHOW that by 2020 customer service will completely outweigh price and product as a key brand differentiator, a statistic which inspired this year’s Salon Owners Summit held at Dublin’s Mansion House. More than 400 hair and beauty professionals attended to hear keynote speaker and best-selling customer service author John DiJulius, who

revealed the secrets on how some of his clients (think Starbucks, Ritz-Carlton and Disney) consistently deliver worldclass customer service. UK business expert Antony Whitaker spoke about defining the client experience and ensuring salons know their market. This event, hosted by Phorest Salon Software, also included a panel discussion hosted by chief executive Ronan Perceval.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

#CHedit MY months

AHEAD

Sinead Lee working with Sebastian Professional international artist, Dom Capel

What March and April have in store KEVIN BODENHAM MOYO HAIR & BEAUTY

GALWAY STYLIST JOINS SEBASTIAN CULT TEAM

THE NEW Sebastian Professional Cult Team has been chosen from hundreds of hopefuls across Ireland and the UK – and Sinead Lee from Renaissance Hair in Galway is the only Irish member. Sinead, who has been a senior stylist at Renaissance Hair for the past five years, describes being selected as a dream come true: “I am ecstatic, it’s an amazing opportunity working with Dom Capel. And I feel so grateful to be the only person chosen from Ireland,” she said. “This will help to build my career up so much and give me so many opportunities.” Sinead prepped and presented a model on audition day to a panel of industry experts including Angelo Vallillo of Zullo & Holland and Dom Capel from Lara Johnson Lifestyle. They presented mood boards and were quizzed on the looks.

PAUL STAFFORD IS NEW FACE OF ALFAPARF ALFAPARF MILANO has appointed Belfastbased Paul Stafford to become its global ambassador and educator for 2016. The internationally renowned hairstylist’s new role includes providing education and creative direction worldwide, marking a new phase for the company as it builds on its prestigious education department and expands its network of luxury partner salons. “We chose Paul for his experience in salon education and show work, along with his enthusiasm for pushing the boundaries of creativity,” said Alfaparf’s Denis Pianetti. Paul is already at work producing a new cut and colour collection for the brand. “Alfaparf has offered amazing support as I’ve grown and reclaimed control of my brand,” said Paul. “I’m looking forward to building on that in Ireland and internationally.”

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

We’ve launched two new beauty rooms at the four-star Camden Court Hotel where we’re offering an extended menu. It includes male and female waxing, male grooming and vibrational healing (a kind of reiki with music). Further plans include a rebranding to reflect our commitment to the holistic lifestyle and luxury service.

DEAN HICKEY DE STIJL HAIR STUDIO

With our expansion plans ahead of schedule, I want to break into make-up and beauty – making the salon a one-stop shop. We’ll be adding another 1,500 sq ft to the salon over two floors and I’m also heading up creative courses as a Keune Ireland guest artist working right across the country, showcasing the new collections.

ANNA MUNNELLY

HAIR CREATIONS

The first quarter of the year is always busy, with training, planning and team development, but also with our hope for projects we think are obtainable for the year ahead. With that in mind, my partner Alan and I will focus on the window/retail areas and the backwash bar in both salons. We also plan to give our salons a mini-makeover.

D E N EAR R U O Y ? S E STRIP R U O Y T E G ! Y H TROP IT’S NEARLY TIME…

D! N A L E IR IN W O N – S AWARD D E T N A W T S O M ’S D CREATIVE HEA

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THE BUSINESS EDIT SAFE PAIR OF HANDS ARE HAIRDRESSERS MORE ACCIDENT-PRONE AT WORK THAN OTHERS? NEARLY HALF OF hairdressers and beauty therapists in the UK say they have been injured at some point at work, making the industry one of the most accident-prone, according to a survey by price comparison site, Confused.com. The study argued that hairdressers and beauty therapists beat other jobs including electricians, plumbers and police officers in the accident and injury stakes. The most common types of injuries were cuts, sprains and burns, followed by broken bones. So we asked some industry insiders if the same applies here. Are Irish stylists accident prone? Have salons got health and safety policies and are they generally compliant? Kimberley Howe, salon director at Dylan Bradshaw, says: “Thankfully we haven’t had many accidents in our salon.

RISING STAR

NAME DEAN MONKS AGE 22 SALON TONI&GUY,

CLARENDON ST, DUBLIN 2

WHEN DID YOU REALISE THAT YOU WANTED TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? It’s hard to say when exactly, but from a young age I was fascinated by hairdressing. My mam is a hairdresser and I always insisted on watching her working in the kitchen! I never imagined I would pick it up as a career though; going down different paths after

I believe this is down to the salon guidelines we provide to each team member during their induction. “As a manager of a five-star luxury salon, client and staff safety is my priority. We ensure all of the team are trained appropriately and stays knowledgeable on all safety regulations and develops a safe working attitude which in turn, creates a safe place for all to work.” Rachael Fox, salon manager at Kazumi, believes that stylists who cut are more prone to accidents than colourists: “Most suffer cuts from cutting hair, colourists not so much as they use gloves all the time, but I don’t think the industry is particularly accident-prone. There are so many other dangerous jobs – you’re talking about a little nick in the salon or an allergic reaction the odd time. David D’Arcy, senior technician at Toni&Guy Clarendon St, disagrees hairdressers are any more prone to injury. “I think we keep a certain standard when it comes to safety due to the volume of clients that go through our salons every day,” he says. “It’s important to enforce the highest standards of safety we can. I aim for the ‘best safe practice’ whether it’s a haircut or colour, as we’re working with chemicals and hot water.” And what about compliance within the industry? “I think it could be better. I’ve worked for small and large salons and with smaller companies, they tend to leave you to your own devices and let you use your own common sense, whereas I think big companies are a bit more compliant. Smaller salons could do a little bit more to catch up,” he adds. Kimberley Howe, from Dylan Bradshaw, agrees. “There’s no body in place to regulate the industry, and therefore we have many salons that don’t follow health and safety guidelines as they have no-one to answer to. There’s always room to improve in our industry. A salon’s reputation is built by word of mouth, so a bad client or staff experience can be detrimental to your business. Guidelines have to be followed all the way through.”

school helped me decide that hairdressing is for me. Now I just wish I had started sooner. WHO IS YOUR HAIRDRESSING HERO OR STYLE INSPIRATION? Antoni “Antek” Cierplikowski, a Polish hairdresser in Paris in the early 20th century. He was the first celebrity hairstylist and worked with the likes of Greta

Garbo and Coco Chanel. He had a vision that a woman didn’t need a hat to complete an outfit, a stylish haircut would do the job. WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU’VE LEARNED ABOUT THE BUSINESS OF HAIR? For me hairdressing is all about personality; at the start I

wanted to be just like my idols, but it didn’t take me long to realise you have to make it your own and create your own path. You really need to decide what type of hairdresser you want to be, if you put the time into your training and you feel comfortable and confident about your work then you’re sure to make clients happy.

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LIFE LESSONS

BILLY ORR, SENIOR CREATIVE STYLIST KAZUMI HAIR SALON, MOLESWORTH STREET, DUBLIN 2 Be a team player, don’t go it alone. Although I’m based in Dublin now, I started out as a trainee in Glasgow. I spent a lot of my days off assisting senior stylists on their awards shoots and prepping hair for events like the Alternative Hair Show in London, or just making them tea! But it was a constant source of creativity which helped me in my career. Set yourself goals. Put a strategy in place to help you achieve your dream. When I qualified as a stylist, I knew instantly I wanted to up-skill as a make-up artist and combine salon work with working on TV shows, shoots and to glam-up celebrities in the music industry. I was told “one was painting and the other was sculpting”, but I persevered. To date I have worked with celebs such as Lady Gaga, Rihanna, The Saturdays and for glossies such as Marie Claire, Harper’s Bazaar and Cosmopolitan. So dreams do come true! And I’ve achieved all this while running a column at Kazumi. It’s not good enough to just do a beautiful haircut or

Photography: Emily Quinn

a gorgeous colour, it’s about the whole service across the salon from the moment the client walks in the door until they leave.

Be yourself and be authentic. Clients gravitate towards you because of your personality, I always remember when I was a junior, a senior stylist who was English told me I should not say “wee” when talking to clients, what with me being from Scotland and all. Thankfully I didn’t take their advice and have never lost my Scottish accent or wee words! Inspire others. Working with trainees is a highlight of my day in the salon. We inspire each other, the younger guys learn from watching me styling hair and trying out new colour techniques but I learn a lot from them just listening to them talk about their music choices, their fashion styles and cultural tastes – and I do check out their make-up application!

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For March ghd is offering an exclusive styling set with every purchase of the platinum styler. The set contains a ghd paddle brush and heat protect spray in a handy drawer box.

RRP FROM €129

+44 1924 423400 ghdhair.ie

COLOUR CLOSE-UP

ALFAPARF MILANO has launched a new professional range for blonde, grey and white hair. Called That’s It, the range includes Blonde Ambition, Gold Fever, Blonde Parade and Grey Pride and contains pearl particles that diffuse light from all directions.

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American Crew’s three-in-one Tea Tree shampoo, conditioner and body wash provides a quick and easy solution for busy men on the go.

RRP FROM €12.95 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

Luxurious Minimalism is a trend collection from Keune containing nine new colours in three categories: grey, blonde and brown. Within the ranges the focus is on covering grey, blonde highlights and brown shades with an iridescent character.

IN-SALON SERVICE 061 212 028 essentialsalon.ie

RRP €10.50 +44 20 7391 7440 JOICO’S NEW LumiShine re-strengthens hair as it colours, providing rich tones, coverage against greys and a twice-asshiny finish. The in-built technology restores 100 per cent of the Arginine (an amino acid essential to hair’s health) that the hair-colouring process strips away, stabilising dyes deep within the cortex for longer-lasting, fade-resistant colour. It also helps to reduce breakages – a colourist’s dream.

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RRP FROM €11.50 01 404 6424

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It’s time to get properly creative with the revamped OSIS+ from Schwarzkopf Professional. With an incredible 28 products – including eight new heroes – your clients will be spoilt for choice! We love frizzfighting Curl Honey…

Clients who crave the natural look will go wild for the Nude line-up from Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal.

Indola has launched Kera Bond, a system that protects hair during chemical processes in two easy steps with an additive in the colour mixture and a postcolour treatment.

IN-SALON SERVICE 021 242 8033 salonshop.ie

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17/02/2016 11:23

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

STOCK OPTIONS OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

EVERY CLIENT THAT sits in your chair has a unique hair type, and so they have unique concerns. One-size-fits-all simply isn’t enough any more – dry lengths can be combined with oily roots and hair that suffers from frizz might also lack volume. Even siblings can have very different hair types – something celebrity sisters Poppy and Chloe Delevingne discovered when they became global brand ambassadors of the newly re-launched System Professional from Wella Professionals. Each client’s hair is analysed and their EnergyCode revealed, and the right products prescribed. With over 174 million combinations, they can be sure that they are getting something bespoke and tailored to them. Make them feel special!

RRP FROM €25 01 416 0900 wella.ie

IT’S ALL ABOUT... THE BLOW-DRY Your Hair Assistant from Davines is a range of haircare and styling products that helps both stylists and clients master the art of the blow-dry, for a perfect finish in the salon and at home.

Shu Uemura Art of Hair’s Straightforward Blow Dry Oil cuts drying time and nourishes and conditions the hair for gorgeous shine and a tangle-free finish.

RRP FROM €24.50 +44 20 3301 5449

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lorealprofessional.ie

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Inside story LLOYDS HAIR

89 THE QUAY, WATERFORD

CLEAN, LIGHT AND MODERN without a clinical edge is the style at Lloyds salon in Waterford city. “Every aspect of the salon was designed with the intention of balancing the warm and cool light in the room to ensure that we mimicked natural light as much as possible,” explains owner, Danielle Lloyd. “It’s a pet peeve of mine when salons have bad lighting.” There’s also a place for everything and no clutter. “Every element in the salon plays a role in the look we want to achieve; decorations are kept to a minimum to avoid clutter and the focus instead is placed on two mirror mosaic feature walls, which are the focal points in the room,” she continues. “I’m not a fan of traditional styling stations and I like everything to be flush, so I commissioned our stations to be made by a Waterford-based carpenter. We used traditional, full-length styling mirrors and got wooden frames built around them – everything is away in its own little hidden place!”

HOT BUYS COOL AND CLEAN

Soft curves, clean design and good craftsmanship ensure that the Vibe chair from Kiela fits perfectly in any salon – modern or traditional. It features a fully upholstered seat and stylish back with aluminium accents on the front. Open back and one piece construction allows easy clean up. RRP: €800 045 856490 xpertpro.ie

LOUNGE LIZARD

The modular Lounge chair from Salon Ambience offers multiple options for a salon’s reception area and is available in three different versions: single, double and triple place seats and in a choice of colours. Its usual price is €659 but it’s currently available at a special promotional price. RRP: €336 061 212028 essentialsalon.ie

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OF A R E YOU A

C OL OU R ARTISAN?

Enhance your clientsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; natural hair with our world renowned hair extensions. Join the Artisans and become a Certified Great Lengths Extensionist. Contact our education experts on training@greatlengthshair.co.uk

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E C N A H C T S LA ED T I LIM

K O O B TO

ING N I A M E R S T E K C I T

IT’S COMING! GREAT MINDS. BIG IDEAS. POWERFUL STORIES.

GROW YOUR SALON BUSINESS

10 YEARS

20-21 MARCH 2016 Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London

WEEKEND PASS £225*† DAY PASS £115†

BOOK NOW +44 1434 610944 p22-27_Salon Smart.indd 2

11/02/2016 15:02

Inspiring speakers Practical workshops Case studies Q&A sessions NEW! Showcase Non-stop networking

HEAR FROM THEM ALL Marcus Allen Harrods Urban Retreat Nick Clark 93ft Nicky Clarke OBE George’s Hairdressing Laura Glazebrook and Sofie West LWPR Simon Harris mysalonmanager.co Katie Mulcahy Dale Hairdressing Jayne Prigent Jas Hair Group Adam Reed Percy & Reed Lee Stafford Ken West 3•6•5 Abby and Karly Whittaker Sarah Hodge Hairdressing Mitchell Wilson Laundry Tony Wood Tony Wood Hairdressing

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EVENT GUIDE p22-27_Salon Smart.indd 3

11/02/2016 15:02

TWO DAYS. ALL THIS!

Sunday 20 March

14.00 Hotel check-in opens for Weekend Pass ticket holders 15.15 A welcome to Salon Smart from Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock

15.55 Marcus Allen

A firm Salon Smart favourite, Marcus Allen – group head of salon at Urban Retreat Harrods – will be focusing on recruitment and team development this time around, with an aim to employ 10 new members of staff in the months leading up to the event. Look out for his unique diary of his recruitment journey.

15.25 Jayne Prigent

Owner of Salisbury salon group, Jas Hair – two-time winner of Most Wanted Best Local Salon and celebrating 25 years in business – Jayne Prigent is passionate about her local community, actively championing independent businesses and urging customers to ‘shop local’. But she’s not afraid to put her own business first in order to grow it in new, different and exciting ways. Hear about the experiences (some good, some not so!) that have seen the profile of the Jas Hair salon group soar.

19.30 Time to eat

Three-course dinner with wine. Enjoy!

21.00 Adam Reed

Sit back and enjoy a creative presentation by – and conversation with – Most Wanted Hair Icon Adam Reed and his Percy & Reed team.

18.00 Meet & Mix

Sip a glass of bubbly and talk shop with Marcus Allen, Simon Harris, Lee Stafford, Ken West and Abby and Karly Whittaker in this convivial session.

22.15 Goodnight!

Overnight accommodation with breakfast, based on two sharing a twin/double room, is included within the Weekend Pass ticket price.

WEEKEND PASS £225*† DAY PASS £115†

BOOK NOW +44 1434 610944 p22-27_Salon Smart.indd 4

11/02/2016 15:02

Monday 21 March

09.15 Catherine Handcock introducing the theme of the day: how to get noticed 10.30 The Salon Smart Workshops  09.40 Roll up your sleeves for Salon Smart’s Mitchell Wilson masterclass. Part 1 focuses on how to and Nick Clark market your salon and team to clients, Laundry in Sheffield stormed to victory as Most Wanted Best New Salon in 2014, with a branding and communications strategy that blew everyone away. Hear from owner Mitchell Wilson (pictured) and designer Nick Clark on how they got it right.

10.00 NEW! Famous 4:5

The Boutique Atelier’s Richard Phillipart talks about balancing international Fashion Weeks and his Cheshire salon.

10.10 Laura Glazebrook and Sofie West Not everyone can afford to hire a PR agency. Here, Laura Glazebrook and Sofie West from LWPR (selflessly!) share tips and tricks for a DIY strategy that will turn all the right heads.

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13.50 Team Talk: George’s Hairdressing

while Part 2 focuses on how to work with local and national press. Unmissable.

11.20 NEW! Famous 4:5

15.05 NEW! Famous 4:5

Magic Scissors founder Tony Wood talks about his charity initiative in this quickfire pop-up session.

11.30 Ken West

The education director for 3•6•5 reveals how a drop in young people pursuing hairdressing has impacted training.

15.15 The Salon Smart Workshops Time to attend your second session.

16.00 The Nicky Clarke story

Ninety minutes of business networking with leading industry brands, including Goldwell, KMS California, 3•6•5, BaByliss PRO, Hairaisers, Heat Treat, Millennium, National Hairdressers’ Federation, Nicka K New York, Salon IQ, Santander, Treatwell, Viviscal and Windle & Moodie.

@creativeheadmag

14.20 Think Tank

The chance to put your burning business questions to our panel of eminent industry experts.

In this slot: Katie Mulcahy. She won Most Wanted’s One To Watch award in 2009 – six years later and she’s the reigning Most Wanted Colour Expert champ. What’s her standout?

11.50 NEW! Showcase

This Leicester salon group has a reputation for breeding industry stars – Rita Ora’s stylist Chris Appleton and Layered Salon Star Natalia Maxwell to name but two. So what’s its secret?

Not just another interview! Creative HEAD editor Amanda Nottage asks Nicky what it’s like to be one of the most famous hairdressers in the world. A fascinating session with a legend.

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CHOOSE YOUR TICKET p22-27_Salon Smart.indd 5

11/02/2016 15:03

E C N A H C T S LA ED T I LIM

K O O B TO

ING N I A M E R S T E K C I T

TWO-DAY BUSINESS PACKAGE WEEKEND PASS £225*† Sunday 20 and Monday 21 March 2016 Your ticket includes: l l l l l l l l l l

London’s 4-star Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel provides a luxurious setting for Salon Smart guests. Situated near London’s South Bank with views over the River Thames, the city’s key attractions – such as the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament – are within walking distance. Salon Smart Weekend Pass ticket-holders will enjoy a comfortable stay in fully air-conditioned rooms with flatscreen televisions, mini-bar, tea and coffee-making facilities. Hotel amenities include a fitness centre, an award-winning restaurant and free Wi-Fi. 24-hour room service is available.

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All main stage speaker sessions Meet & Mix reception Three-course dinner with wine After-dinner hair presentation Overnight stay (Sunday) with breakfast Practical workshops Live Q&A session NEW! Showcase Lunch and all refreshments Non-stop networking! Goodie bag

*Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £50 single room supplement applies.

SPONSORED BY

11/02/2016 15:03

MONDAY ONLY SCHEDULE

DAY PASS £115† Monday 21 March 2016 Your ticket includes: l l l l l l l

Monday’s main stage sessions Practical workshops Live Q&A session NEW! Showcase Lunch and all refreshments Non-stop networking! Goodie bag

20-21 MARCH 2016

Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London

BOOK NOW +44 1434 610944

†Price includes VAT. Ticket terms apply: visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/ticketsandvenue

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH HAI R AI S ERS

PROFESSIONAL

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11/02/2016 15:03

Scene

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

HOUSE OF FUN

UP TO 40 HOUSE of Colour apprentices strutted their stuff on the catwalk at the Wright Venue in Swords, Co. Dublin, to compete at the 15th annual House of Colour Trendsetter Awards, presented by director, David Campbell. The competitors had to complete a cut and colour to a fashion brief for the competition night, which also raised €800 for Temple St Children’s Hospital. The 400-strong audience was treated to an amazing hair show by Dream Team 2015, which consisted of the top four House of Colour trainees from the past year. Event judges included Ericka Kidd, Wella TrendVision Young Talent Gold Ireland winner 2015; Nadine Walshe, Wella Generation Now team member 2015; Kim Tsang, senior educator; Linda White, style director; Sinead Berrigan of the House of Colour creative team; master colour experts Kelsey Cronin and Stephanie Byrne; as well as guest judge Sarah Mason from Renaissance salon in Galway, winner of the IHF Irish Hairdresser of the Year.

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David Campbell

And the winners are â&#x20AC;Ś Foundation Academy Course Grace Downes, Aisling Lee Induction Emily Drumm (Times Building), Jordan O Brien (Abbey St), Abbie Blake, (Charlestown) Excellence Zara Mc Entyre (Lucan), Ciara Cunningham (Drogheda), Graduate Vicky Hernon (Lucan), Rachel McCormack (Lucan), Gill Treacy (Charlestown)

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shop ﬁt Spring is the time to give your salon the TLC it deserves – we’ve got the latest trends, industry insider views and tips from successful salons who reveal why sprucing up your shop is well worth the effort

WHEN IT COMES to the business of hair, you’ve got to stay ahead of the game. Keeping your staff well trained and highly motivated is one way to do this, being proactive in your business and keeping up with the latest products, styles and techniques is another. And equally important is keeping your salon decor in top shape, as it’s the first thing a client sees when they walk in for an appointment. Keeping up with the latest interior trends will ensure that your salon always looks inviting to all clients. As clients become more sophisticated and consequently, demanding, your shop has got to be up to the mark in terms of having all the latest equipment and also staying ahead of style trends – to ensure that it’s not only well kitted out but looks amazing, too. Dylan Bradshaw, owner and creative director of Dylan Bradshaw Salon and Academy, knows a thing or two about keeping his business looking fabulous. In 2010 he moved and rebranded his salon, giving it a whole new look in the style of a boutique hotel. So did it pay dividends? “It goes without saying that every salon or business is going to benefit from some type of refurbishment, which keeps you fresh in what is a very fast-paced and trend-driven industry,” explains Dylan. “You’re not only investing in your salon but in your clients and your team – it gives them confidence in your business and the service it provides. I am a strong believer in continuous education for my team, but what is the point of your team having all of this knowledge if your salon looks unloved and outdated? “Money spent on salon maintenance, upkeep or refurbishment ensures your business goes in the direction you want it to,” he adds. “We moved to our new building and current location six years ago. Our inspiration for the salon was boutique style

hotels; we wanted to create a large, luxurious, retail-friendly space for clients to enjoy the ultimate beauty experience. “At the time we were based just up the street at Johnson’s Place in Dublin 2 with 15 stations and we had outgrown this 1,500 sq ft location. “Our goal was to move into a bigger space, expanding the salon so that we could provide an even more superior service and beauty offering to our clients. We also had the intention to move into education and knew we couldn’t do that where we were. In 2010 we found the ideal building, 10,000 sq ft at 56 South William St in Dublin 2 and over the years we have evolved from a salon into Dylan Bradshaw Hair, Nails, MakeUp and Academy,” reveals Dylan.

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Dylan Bradshaw

SALON UPDO

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Alan Keville Cork 32

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Alan Keville Cork

SALON UPDO

The Alan Keville Group, which now has three salons, opened up a new shop two years ago in Cork city, just as the economy started to pick up. It also has salons in Dublin and Wexford. “We opened Alan Keville for Hair on Academy St, Cork city in April 2014. It was the next place that was upand-coming after the recession. “Several businesses were given planning permission around the area and new leases were being signed regularly. Cork had always been very connected with us, we had family there and also we had several staff that were working with us coming up to Dublin craving the creative buzz that they didn’t find there. We wanted to bring that to Cork,” reveals Alan, owner and creative director. “Our aim was to achieve a luxurious, high-end salon that not only is a beautiful place to have your hair done, but a place where passionate hairdressers could expand their knowledge and continue to flourish. “We wanted the architecture to mirror what we value as a brand. With strong precise lines of black and white integrated with the softness of the bronze tones and open brick walls, the space not only had to be a beautiful environment to relax in, but also a creative space within which to work.” “We are delighted so far, meeting our targets for the past eight months. Now we’re concentrating on expanding the team and are currently looking for new talent to join us. We are excited for the future,” adds Alan. Meanwhile, key suppliers to the hairdressing industry report that refurbishment is picking up as confidence in the economy continues to increase and consumer spending grows. The result is that salons feel more confident and as their revenues improve, they’re more likely to make that shop investment in 2016. Richard Barry, national sales manager at Xpert Professional, one of the biggest suppliers to the industry in Ireland, echoes this development. He reported an improvement midway through last year at the firm’s furniture division. “We definitely noticed an upturn in terms of salons investing in refurbishment since the middle of 2015. We saw a noticeable trend in salons upgrading or improving the quality of their salon equipment. This upturn we believe

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is mostly due to salons finally being able to get access to funds due to an increase in their own sales and profitability,” explains Richard, whose furniture division exclusively distributes Kiela and Spanish brand Mirplay. “Furniture sales have increased by 25 per cent over the previous year,” reveals Richard. “We believe that growth will continue.” And what about industry trends? “Colour trends are playing it safe with no loud colours being used and more neutral wall shades coming back in fashion. I would estimate that more than 90 per cent of salon furniture is black, with the second most popular shade being dark grey. “A lot of salons are looking to have private rooms for their basin areas with softer music and lighting, offering a more ritualistic experience. Retail areas are becoming more prominent with more space and planning being put into the number of brand choices and the accessibility of real areas, allowing salons to focus on profit for space,” says Richard. However, he adds that barbershops are bucking the trend by opting for a ’30s barbershop feel. Paul Moloney, operations manager at Essential Salon Supplies, another large supplier of products including Salon Ambience and Luca Rossini, reports that there’s no definitive trend in terms of salon style. “There isn’t any particular trend in terms of areas of the country that are refitting salons; every corner of the country is looking to be the ‘new and improved’ version of itself,” he explains. “However there is a trend in the style of the furniture being purchased. Salons are either going for the classic and elegant look or the modern and trendy look. We cater for all tastes but these ends of the spectrum are the most popular.” “There has been a huge upturn in salon investment in terms of salons upgrading their images. Most salons will refurbish or invest in new equipment every five or six years. Last year saw a rise in salons either wishing to refurbish or upgrade the look of their salon. “In the second half of 2015 there was a big spend from salons wishing to have their salons looking in peak perfection for the holiday period. We saw a 60 per cent increase in salon investment with an equal split between refurbishment and upgrade,” he adds.

The next

big

thing

From eco and embellishment to vintage pieces and Pantones, we select the very latest for your salon

“ETHICAL AND environmentally-focused furniture and products are continuing to see increased demand. Salons are looking at ways to reduce their environmental impact and are far more conscientious with regard to the origins and the production methods of what they use and buy,” says Elena Meglioli, sales and operations manager of furniture brand Maletti. We love the Eco Fun Range, which combines

modern design with green materials (above). “If I had to name what was the most important aspect of a salon’s interior, it would have to be the lighting,” says Matthew Lutostanski, managing partner of Beauty Planet Salon Creation in the UK. “The latest LED lights are brilliant because you aren’t restricted to one flat tone. It enables you to create a journey for your client – quiet lighting in the chilled out backwash area, bright

lighting to show detail while styling and vibrant lighting to show off retail products on the shelves.” Emma Masters, senior project designer for the UK’s Richmond International, believes an emphasis on locally crafted items with intricate detailing will come through this year. From trims and embroidery to upholstered items, inlay and marquetry detailing to furniture pieces and a move away from minimalist,

perfect lines. “We’re seeing a move towards elegance and classic opulence – nothing ostentatious, just more refined and detailed,” observes Elena of Maletti. “Following years of recession and cutbacks, people are looking to put a bit of flair and life back into their salons with brighter colours, rich woods and subtle detailing.” For a glamorous flair without being too showy, add touches of gold and hints of marble.

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Linton and Mac

SALON UPDO

Top 10

colours for S/S16 THIS SEASON IT ISN’T ABOUT STRIKING COLOUR CONTRASTS – IT’S ABOUT USING DIFFERENCES TO CREATE BALANCE, AS SEEN IN THE PANTONE TOP 10 COLOURS FOR SPRING

PSST!

BRASS, COPPER AND ROSE GOLD TONES ARE TAKING OVER AS MATERIALS GET WARMER IN TONE, SAYS EMMA MASTERS, SENIOR PROJECT DESIGNER FOR RICHMOND INTERNATIONAL

When hanging pictures on the walls or putting up shelves, try the new trend for clusters. Rather than spreading out your pieces, which can look sparse and bare, put them together in groups to catch the eye.

Source: Moroccan Bazaar

Moroccan

magic

Avoid the jumble sale look by pairing one-off vintage style items with more streamlined pieces. Team wicker with steel, soft drapes against sharp lines and luxurious patterned pieces like these Moroccan bazaar tables alongside sleek surfaces.

Cater for clients with touches of tech that are discreet but useful. Hare & Bone in London had chargers installed within the counters so clients can charge their phones without plugging them in.

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Brown Sugar South William St

BROWN SUGAR’S MARK O’KEEFFE HAS SEEN AND DONE IT ALL – AND SURVIVED. NOW AS IRELAND ENJOYS A NEW ECONOMIC UPTURN, HE TALKS ABOUT HIS EVER-EXPANDING PORTFOLIO OF BRANDS AND SUCCESSFUL SHOPS FROM THE GET-GO, Dubliner Mark O’Keeffe’s destiny was hairdressing. His father Frank worked for the Peter Mark group his whole life – first as a general manager and then as a company director. Mark was bitten by the hair bug at a young age and he’s never looked back. He’s now the managing director of his own hair and beauty empire, which continues to flourish. Like all hairdressers, he started on the shop floor and, by the age of 23, he was appointed a salon manager. Six years later, he accomplished his dream of opening his first salon. In March 2005 at the height of Ireland’s economic boom, Mark opened Brown Sugar – a new style of salon. It had hair and beauty combined, was luxurious and expensive, but clients were treated like celebrities. “There was a gap in the market for somewhere you could get excellent hair and excellent make-up in one location. It worked; it was all connected, under the one roof. We had a private therapy room and a private suite for make-up,” explains Mark. “I wanted to make the shampoo experience more enjoyable, not just a matter-of-fact, functional service. We tried to make it something so that clients would look forward to a shampoo – to make it a private and personal service for people.” And why pick ‘Brown Sugar’ as a moniker? “It’s hard to choose a name, I didn’t want it to be called Mark O’Keeffe, so we brainstormed and figured everyone likes sugar, and brown sugar is slightly healthier so we went with that,” he laughs. A second Brown Sugar salon opened in Blackrock, Co. Dublin in 2007, and business was booming. “I was happily married at the time to a wonderful woman, Paula Callan, a make-up artist, and I had been a manager at Peter Mark before striking out on my own in partnership with Paula. We have three children together,” reveals Mark.

BROWN SUGAR

LIFE IS SWEET CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

Sugar Daddy

“It was too easy during the boom; there was too much money at that time. It had all been a bed of roses, things were so good and I was living the rock ‘n’ roll lifestyle. Then the recession hit and I learned a massive lesson. I had to take stock of my life; my marriage broke down, so I had to change my life and refocus on my business and my kids – it’s now 50:50. I bought Paula out of the business in 2013,” he explains. That was the same year Mark opened Sugar Cubed on Dublin’s Clarendon Street, a new brand within the Brown Sugar stable. “Sugar Cubed is a rebel brand, it’s less upmarket and more streetwise. It’s got an edgier style and staff are much younger. It’s also about 40 per cent cheaper than Brown Sugar, which is a five-star, premium brand for the percentage of the market who can afford it.” Last year was a big one for Brown Sugar. Mark closed the original salon at 50 South William Street and moved business across the street to temporary premises while refurbishing took place. Mark also opened his first male-only shop in November, Sugar Daddy, and at the end of February his latest venture, Brown Sugar Ranelagh, opened. “Ranelagh is full of bars and great restaurants and a cool clientele – and I believe that a lot of Brown Sugar clientele live in or around this suburb,” he explains. His new upmarket barbershop opened on Dublin’s trendy Exchequer Street. “This is aimed at a slightly older client – they’re self conscious about how they look. We’ve got a shoe shine service for €4, and clients can also enjoy a complimentary Teeling whiskey and read the newspaper while they wait for their haircut or shave.” The re-opening of the shop on South William Street represents a substantial investment, turning the flagship salon into one of the most modern salons in the country and Mark sounds suitably excited about it. “I’ve expanded the building to make the experience better and turned it more into a spa vibe. We’ve got a shower room on site and robes. I now have a private room where a client can book in to get her hair and make-up done and get fully dressed for an event. This is a premium service that will cost €70 an hour. “I’ve invested in 14 Spitfire chairs from Takara Belmont and I have a four-seater therapy room and a YuMe holistic massage chair, which a client can lie on horizontally while getting a shampoo. There’s a white Takara Belmont chair in our executive suite. “I’ve got four chairs in a white room recreating a spa feeling for shampooing, and one chair in a black room for a more tranquil experience while a client is shampooed,” he reveals. Despite having a modern approach to business and a nose for gaps in the market, when it comes down to it, Mark’s still a traditionalist at heart. “My ethos is to keep things simple and I’m very much a traditionalist. The client comes first and

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Brown Sugar South William St

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employees a close second. You can’t run a business without respect for both.” Mark’s goal is to create an environment that employees are proud of and feel happy in. “When a client comes into the salon and is greeted by a person who wants to be there and is proud to be there, that has a huge impact.” This year sees the launch of the brand’s new training academy, the Sugar Culture Institute for Hair and Make-up, located at 26 South William St, across from his flagship salon. “This is going to be one of the best schools in the world; I plan to revolutionise how training is done in this country. Career development and appraisal will be so much longer. The academy will include in-house training and some courses for outside people two nights a week. Every trainee will spend one day a week in the academy and will work five days a week, including that training day. They will get to work on four to five models a day,” reveals Mark. “Mentoring is very important in this business. When I worked at Peter Mark, Gary Kavanagh was a great mentor to me, as was my dad.” Sugar Culture is now the name under which all the other brands exist. Next up are plans to open a second Sugar Cubed in the Jervis Centre on Dublin’s north side and to open a nail bar aptly named Sugar Coated! And with an express beauty bar called Sugar Rush also on the horizon, life is sweet for Mark O’Keeffe.

p o

t r A p ot, taking o h s g n i r Guyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sp & i n o T s e ino S/S16 r i h c p s s o n i M r d u olo arhol an W y Vibrant c d n A on from inspirati PHOTOGRAPHY BY EMILY QUINN

GIRLS HAIR AND STYLING Aimee Penco and Elayne Archbold, Brown Sugar, Blackrock; MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen BOYS HAIR AND STYLING Ross King and Robert Hynes, Davey Davey Mens; MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen

HAIR Toni&Guy Ireland Artistic Team; MAKE-UP Ailbhe Lynch using MAC; STYLING Morganna Murphy

TEXTURAL HEALING SHARON MALCOLM’S COLLECTION IS ALL ABOUT TEXTURE – WHETHER IT’S AN UP-DO, A BOB OR A BIG BLOWOUT – STRUCTURE IS EVERYTHING PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES

HAIR Sharon Malcolm Hairdressing; MAKE-UP Maddie Austin; STYLING Claire Frith

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