head May 2013 e7.50
c r e a t i v e
Ireland
C r e at i v e H e a d I r e l a n d May 2013
Do you believe in miracles?
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Creative HEAD
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Experience the first no ammonia high-lift blonde colour‌ 02_218 1
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Miracles can happen... 03_218 1
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INOA
UltraBlond Stunning shades, sublime shine and superb lift – INOA UltraBlond by L’Oréal Professionnel
First there was INOA, the first ammonia-free permanent colour from L’Oréal Professionnel featuring ODS2 (oil delivery system technology). Now L’Oréal Professionnel is raising the colour bar once more with the launch of INOA UltraBlond – a new generation of high-lift blonde colour that will take your colour business to greater heights. How? It’s simple – INOA UltraBlond is ultra client-friendly as it’s the first high-lift blonde colour range with no ammonia and no odour. With up to five levels of lift, the range includes seven stunning shades and two specific oxidants, with four more shades launching later in the year – giving your clients plenty of choice. But that’s not all. INOA UltraBlond is the purest, cleanest and clearest blonde from L’Oréal Professionnel to date and leaves hair feeling soft and smooth.
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Creative HEAD
Promotion
INOA UltraBlond EXCLUSIVELY IN SALONS
ULTRA PURE The most beautiful, clean, neutralised blonde. Up to five levels of lift ULTRA CARE Hair feels soft and smooth with intense shine ULTRA COMFORT Optimised scalp comfort with no ammonia and no odour
DISCOVER THE BLONDE MIRACLE FOR YOURSELF – CALL 0800 030 4034 (UK), 1 800 535 616 (IRELAND) OR VISIT WWW.LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK/INOA. JOIN THE BLONDE REVOLUTION #TEAMBLONDE
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COLORINSIDER is a true breakthrough in Matrix hair colour. The patented Oil Delivery System2 technology propels colour actives into the hair’s core. The fully intermixable palette of true-to-tone shades delivers high-resolution colour results. A PERFECT COLOUR PARTNER Grow your business with COLORINSIDER and offer your clients truly exceptional colour and a sensorial in-salon experience that they’ll keep coming back for.
Visit www.matrixhaircare.co.uk or call 1 800 509 472 to find your local distributor.
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editor’s letter
h t u o y ake Qu
May
CREATIVE HEAD Ireland
16
34 18
There’s an MGMT song, The Youth, that goes: “The youth is starting to change. Are you starting to change?” It’s something this issue asks, as a clear and prominent shift takes place in Irish hairdressing. Attend an event such as an awards ceremony and a roll call of fresh faces can be seen rising to the stage. The model looks illustrated by Ireland’s next generation are backed by colour degrees, the hottest fashion references and are eloquently presented. So who are these young guns? I suppose you’ll want names? They’re the ‘Millenials’, and they are in every salon across the country. Your young recruits, born between 1980 and 2000, are the most progressive, educated workforce to date. They are career-hungry and favour promotions and titles more than any other work reward. They’ll spend their cash on career progression rather than a deposit for a house, and work flexible hours because a 9-to-5 is menial. Immerse yourself in their world and your business will benefit. You’ll meet the young entrepreneurs setting up shop and find out what makes those Millenials tick in Interiorscape, Taskforce and Business Pro Rising, while Look Who’s Talking from page 34 is a real eye-opener, giving us a glimpse into their world. Here, seven of the most ambitious in the industry get together to talk hair. And The Last Word on page 58 is a serious nudge for anyone thinking about going into business alone. Finally, this May issue will be my very last for Creative HEAD Ireland. After seven amazing years I will be leaving you in the wonderful hands of Aoibhinn McBride, who would love to hear from you. So don’t be shy, email Aoibhinn@headmag.ie! I would like to take this opportunity to thank you for all your support since Creative HEAD Ireland’s launch in 2006. We knew we were about to embark on something great when we started working on the first issue, but nothing could have prepared us for how amazing and responsive the industry would be and how fortunate we are to work alongside so many talented and creative individuals every day.
Sarah Manley Follow @CreativeHEADIrl on Twitter Find us on Facebook, search ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ Creative Head Ireland 06
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ENTRUST YOUR BEAUTY TO PROFESSIONALS
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*Instrumental test: shampoo + conditioner + spray
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I N
L ’ O R É A L
P R O F E S S I O N N E L
S A L O N S 14/03/2013 12:41
contents
May
What’s inside
free range
Ltd
21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND
REGULars _ 11 the source IHF unveils its Star Team and Colour Trophy reveals show teams
Editor
Sarah Manley Contributor
Aoibhinn Mcbride
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Art director
Nick Jabbal Art
Graeme White Chief sub editor
Adam Wood Special projects manager
Joanna Andersen Advertising managers
Sarah Manley ben baldock Editor in chief
Amanda nottage Publisher
catherine handcock Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetablebased inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
WRITE TO US AT: CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND 6-9 Trinity STreet DUBLIN 2 T: 01 617 7947 Email: sarah@headmag.ie Go online to www.creativeheadmag.com, find ‘Creative HEAD magazine’ on Facebook or follow us on Twitter: @CreativeHEADIrl Download the Creative HEAD App here: Creative HEAD Ireland is published 10 times a year by ALFOL Ltd. Creative HEAD Ireland is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
21 _ Scene
h t u youake Q
Brown Sugar rewards future talents, Essential Looks arrives and we spot Kate!
58 _ the last word
Business star John Egan explains why sometimes you just have to go your own way
44 _ Subscribe now... and you’ll receive a free gift from Indola, worth E27.35 features
34 _ Look who’s talking
We’re experiencing a Youthquake! The country’s best young hairdressers discuss their generation’s prospects, purpose and attitudes fashion
46 _ Vantage point
Toni&Guy Ireland’s Thrive collection aims for commerciality and collaboration
48 _ Curve your enthusiasm Joico ambassador Damien Carney reveals slinky metallics and curvilinear colour blocking
52 _ Modern times
Chumba Concept Salons incorporates strong geometric shapes into looks inspired by the Mod movement
56 _ Runway
Simone Rocha takes us on a school trip and we look into a selection of session stars’ kit-bags
head c r e a t i v e
May 2013 e7.50
Alfol
PUBLISHING
Ireland
Do you believe in miracles?
ON the COVER Hair INOA UltraBlond, by L’Oréal Professionnel
Creative Head Ireland 08
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08/02/2013 16:52
What you’ll see this May Anarchy on the runway Punk has grabbed fashion’s attention once more, from Fendi’s faux hawks to Versace’s Vunk!
Deco Delight! As The Great Gatsby hits cinemas, we celebrate the Jazz Age
Teenage kicks See exciting new photographic collections from salons across the globe
THEY’RE ON IT
and they
LOVE IT!
We were thrilled to be featured on the Creative HEAD App – it’s another platform to get your collection seen. It means that anyone can tune into your creations wherever and whenever they want – love it! Lisa Whiteman, Webster Whiteman
Download the free Creative HEAD App now – search ‘Creative HEAD’ in the Apple App store or visit creativeheadapp.net, where you can upload your work, too!
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source the
Take a look at dublin’s coolest new salon Page 18
news, products and business know-how It all starts here…
▼ ▼
May 2013
exclusive
The future is bright for the IHF Star Team showcase their talent. Those who are selected will be given an individual mentor for the year, participate in photoshoots and enter the exclusive National Photographic Awards. David Campbell, director of the Star Team, said: “There’s a huge amount of talent in Ireland with no platform to show it off, so the Star Team will give young Irish trainees who are enthusiastic, passionate about the JAN
industry and want to get out there and make a name for themselves, the chance to do so. We’re looking for the next hairdressing icon.” And the criteria for entry is just as exciting – it’s open to all trainees in Ireland, regardless of what stage they are at, entry costs e40. Prospective entrants are invited to apply this month. Email secretary@irishhairfed.com or visit www.irishhairfed.com for an entry form
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The Irish Hair Federation (IHF) has revealed an initiative to seek out and develop young hairdressing talent across the country, with the introduction of the Star Team. A new venture led by House of Colour co-owner David Campbell and with KMS Art Team member Olive Tucker-Lee also on board, the Star Team aims to give trainees and young hairdressers a platform to
Creative Head Ireland 11
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the latest news from the industry
My month ahead
Hugh Campbell Artistic Team 2013
What does May 2013 have in store for... Jennifer Lil Buckley
Leading lights to guide Colour Trophy teams Teams from the Hugh Campbell Hair Group, led by Cyril Morgan and Anita O’Donnell, and Peter Mark, headed up by Gary Kavanagh, have been invited to perform in this year’s L’Oréal Colour Trophy, taking place at the Convention Centre in Dublin in July. Both salon groups have performed at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in the past but are looking forward to the revised show programme and the larger venue this year. Anita O’Donnell explained: “Being asked to do a show for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy is the equivalent of being asked up on stage to join the industry greats. It’s absolutely amazing. And, while we have done a show for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy before, the fact that the brand is launching a new concept for this year’s event makes it even more exciting.” Gary Kavanagh added: “This year the focus is more about catwalk than couture and we’re doing our first hair trial this month.”
Gerry Hynes
IHF president Gerry Hynes speaks at EU seminar Incoming Irish Hair Federation (IHF) president Gerry Hynes has returned from a trip to Belgium, where he presented a speech on the Irish hairdressing industry to Coiffure EU and the Union Europa – two industry bodies dedicated to increasing hairdressing regulation. As well as giving a detailed presentation in Brussels on the work the IHF does in Ireland for its members, Gerry Hynes also gave a frank and honest depiction of where Irish hairdressing stands with regards to trade unions, the black market and how the IHF wishes to address these elements.
Brown Sugar, Dublin I’ve been extremely busy on a variety of projects, including the L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTIST team and a lot of editorial work for different magazines. This month I’m really looking forward to the Close to our Hearts charity Sunday on the 19th. It’s a day where all the staff at Brown Sugar raise money for St. Francis Hospice in Raheny in memory of our colleague Eugene O’Reilly, who lost his battle with cancer nearly two years ago.
CH Eire A
Aaron Healy Wayne Lloyd Creative Hair, Cork It’s been a whirlwind since winning Irish Hairdresser of the Year! I’ve just completed my photoshoot for the Irish Photographic Awards, Wella Professionals Trend Vision and the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and following the Irish Hairdressing Federation All Ireland in Belfast, I’m prepping for the International Championships in Paris.
Louise O’Sullivan Sean Taaffe Hair and Beauty, Kerry Courses are extremely important to me as they help boost my confidence and help me to create more detailed upstyles, so I’m really excited to be going to the Connectinghair Wedding Tour 2013 presented by Joakim Roos at the Silver Springs in Cork, and Alfaparf’s Upstyle roadshow on the 12th .
Creative Head Ireland 12
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NEWS May
Mark O’Keeffe becomes sÉrie expert ambassador
Mark O’Keeffe
Award-winning hair stylist and owner and director of the boutique salon chain Brown Sugar, Mark O’Keeffe has been announced as the L’Oréal Professionnel série expert amabassador for Ireland. Mark, who has worked with a host of Irish and international celebrities and supermodels, as well as being a L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTIST, is the first série expert ambassador in Ireland. Discussing the role, Mark said: “I’ve been working with L’Oréal Professionnel a long time and it’s constantly looking ahead and looking for new ways to increase retail sales in salons, something that I know the importance of first hand. It’s important to be able to CH Eire Ad - 230x150mm - Milkshake_Layout 1 28/02/2013 11:07the Page 1 continue relationship.”
If you only do one thing this month... Get ready for wedding season! With summer just around the corner, creating beautiful, intricate up-styles for brides is big business. Taking place on 20 May, Bridal and Occasion Hair, with award-winning stylist and finalist on E4 reality show Great British Hairdresser, Alexander Turnbull, is a one-day course that will look at a range of bridal styles as well step-by-steps skills to help you achieve those looks and showing you how to create bespoke looks on the salon floor. Tickets for this one-day event, held at Essential Salon Supplies Limerick, are priced at e289 and can be purchased by calling Essential Salon Supplies on 061 212 028.
The energy of nature for your beauty and wellbeing
Distributors Wanted
milk_shake is one of the most dynamic brands to enter the professional market, with high quality, natural ingredients combined with the latest cosmetic technology, producing award winning products that have instant appeal. We are currently looking for distributors in selected areas throughout Ireland to continue our rapid growth plan. You may already be an established wholesaler / distributor wishing to add a winning brand to your portfolio, or you are considering a start up company and require an exciting range of shampoos, treatments and colours. In addition to a complete line of products, we offer an exclusive territory agreement, free salon education, international events, point of sale, PR and marketing support. For more information, please contact Xavier Berrell on 087 2524951 or e-mail xavier@red-hotproducts.com (All correspondence is held in the strictest confidence)
discover more at www.milkshakehaircare.co.uk Follow us on
milkshakehair
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Find us on
milk_shake hair products
18/4/13 10:12:13
▼ ▼
New products, tools and colours
want it!
Inside Out
Since it launched, the Schwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure range has gone from strength to strength. Containing vitamin E and Amino Cell Rebuild technology, the BC Sun Protect range, which features a Shampoo, Spray Conditioner and After-Sun Treatment, is designed to give hair incredible shine, deep nourishment and rebuild strength from within, all the while protecting against sun, salt and pollution. RRP FrOM e14.10 Call 01 404 6424
www.schawarzkopf-professional.ie
The Great Oil Rush
‘Oil’ and ‘organic’ – more and more clients are listening out for these two words, so the following product ranges will be music to their ears...
Featuring new Anti-Frizz Fluid and Mousse, the Alfaparf Milano Organic Precious Oil range has Prickly Pear oil and pequi oil, to tame and untangle curly or wavy hair.
The real gems from the Keune Sun Sublime range are the Sun Sublime Oil and Serum, which help keep hair water resistant, locking in the product and essential moisture.
Davines is famous for its more natural and holistic approach, and its SU suncare line for hair and body contains a vast range of natural oils as well as anti-ageing UV filters.
RRP FrOM e11.95 Call 045 856 490
RRP FrOM e8.90 Call 061 212 028
RRP FrOM e17.20 Call 048 9046 665
www.alfaparf.com
www.essentialsalon.ie
www.davines.com
Creative Creative Head HEAD Ireland 14 14
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NEWS May
Natural order
High-tech tresses While most products are concerned with damage to the hair shaft, L’Oréal Professionnel série expert Solar Sublime contains Mexoryl S.O technology – a high-tech ingredient that blocks harmful UV rays so the cortex is protected, keratin is preserved and long-term damage of hair fibre is prevented. Offering coverage throughout the day, the Advanced Protection Conditioning Spray is a light, leave-in formula that gives added UV protection. RRP FrOM e16.80 Call 1800 535 616 www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Miraculous blondes
Perfect for the adventure junkie out in the sun, Aveda’s Sun Care Protective Hair Veil is a leave-in lightweight conditioner that is nongreasy, water-resistant and helps protect the hair from UV exposure all day. On top of this, it also helps to minimise colour fading and dryness! RRP e27 Call 0044 870 034 2380
www.aveda.co.uk
The Thick of it
Cult classic
IDEAL FOR the summer, INOA UltraBlond is the first high-lift blonde with no ammonia and no odour. With up to five levels of lift, the range includes seven stunning shades and two specific oxidants, giving clients plenty of choice.
Since its introduction in 2001, Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray has established itself as the must-have product for taking that sexy, windstyled beach-feel backstage at photoshoots and onto the salon floor. Now the cult of Surf Spray continues with the new Surf Foam Wash Shampoo and Surf Creme Rinse Conditioner – both infused with a unique blend of bodyenhancing minerals, including sea fennel and kelp.
In-Salon Service Call 1 800 535 616
RRP FrOM e24 Call 0044 800 014 7424
RRP e47.99 Call 01 416 0900
www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/INOA
www.bumbleandbumble.com
www.nioxin.co.uk
Thin, limp and lifeless hair are common concerns during the summer months, so for clients looking for an extra helping-hand, Nioxin DiaBoost has been scientifically formulated to increase the thickness of each individual hair strand without weighing it down. Containing caffeine, panthenol and a protective polymer, it also makes hair more resilient to breakage.
Summer Retail sos Irina Kuzina, international business developer at Joico Europe, reveals her summer tips Anti-frizz is a big concern come summertime, and for clients who are looking for the perfect product, consultation is key. The easiest way to promote anti-frizz is to offer a salon deal such as a free in-salon treatment.
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Protecting coloured hair from UV light is a must to prevent colour fade, so why not offer a colour treatment masque half price with the purchase of a shampoo? Or, give away 50ml sample sizes if a client purchases two or more products.
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Stock up on travel kits! They’re a really versatile way to promote a range of products and clients feel that they are getting a lot for their money, as well as handy, travel-sized products. www.lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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Business TASKFORCE Pro rising Generation Graham Dunne next Owner of Lulu’s Hair Salon in Ballivor, Meath
I set up my own salon… in February last year because I felt I could offer a better service than what was being offered in other salons in the area. I believed my client list was strong enough to support a business and I had the self-belief that I could make it. The biggest risk I plan to take this year... is merging with a local beauty salon, El Sol, to join our businesses under one roof. I’ve also ventured into make-up and hair extensions, and I’m receiving training in both to offer a better service. I don’t plan to take risks, just make measured decisions by weighing up the pros and cons. Things I believe my generation does better… is having a willingness to push the boundaries, getting that bit more artistic with clients, adapting to new techniques in a more imaginative and fresh way. I’ll know I’ve made it when… I’m a household name. If I could make one change to the hair industry… it would be to make the standard level of hairdressing much higher. If I could fast forward five years... I would see myself opening a second salon, having moved my first salon to a larger location and ideally working on high-fashion photoshoots or as a part-time session stylist. The best advice I’ve been given is... my advice – always take your own advice, that way you only have yourself to blame.
Forget financial gain – for the generation born between 1980 and 2000, information is king and technology is power. Welcome to the world of the Millennials They’re the generation that favour the latest smartphone over owning a car; have created their own digital brand (brand ‘me’) through social media and they cherish creativity and self-expression over savings accounts. Millennials are redefining the workplace, and they want to reshape the way you work. And they matter, not just because they are different, but because they are also numerous. A survey conducted by PricewaterhouseCooper found that Millennials already make up 25 per cent of the global workforce and by 2020 will represent more than 50 per cent. And, by learning to adapt your style to accept and suit their needs, both you and your business can benefit, something that Paul Davey, co-owner of Davey Davey, has seen firsthand. “The previous generation was more concerned with saving for their first
L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTISTS Jennifer Lil Buckley and Tara Smartt
▼ ▼
business advice and stylish interiors
house. But the younger generation seems to focus more on creativity and progression in their careers, something that is obvious in the amount of young hairdressers who want to get involved in competitions both at home and internationally,” he reveals. “And this desire to try new things creatively is interlinked with technology, something that has forced everyone in the salon to adapt to the digital age.” Laura Mahon, an account director at Thinkhouse, a Dublin-based youth communications agency that’s staffed by Millennials, agrees: “My generation doesn’t want to be tied down or be limited to one kind of job for the rest of their career. We’re motivated to keep learning all the time, to get involved in as many projects as possible and to keep evolving.” Millennials are talented, are committed to their careers, are hungry for more information and they can be your biggest asset – if you let them. Are you ready?
What Millennials bring to the workplace 1. Consistency – Millennials won’t settle for second best, everything they do is a reflection of who they are. 2. Flexibility – they expect flexible working hours if the end-result is the same, but that can benefit you. 3. Ambition – creativity and career progression are the biggest motivators, so new skills and cutting-edge techniques are always at the forefront. 4. New-age skills – who better to bring your salon bang-up-to-date than tech-savvy staff? They understand the power of technology and are paving the way for the digital era. 5. Multitasking – from getting involved in competitions and building a session portfolio to running a fully booked column and managing a salon, Millennials are adaptable and open to taking on several roles.
Creative Creative Head HEAD Ireland 14 16
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Manage your hair salon with the NEW Casio EPoS Solution Android is a technology we are all used to when it comes to smartphones, the platform controls roughly half of the UK market. But what if we take this reliance on smart technology to organise our business, as well as our personal lives?
Enter the Casio VR-100 business support terminal – a device that manages your reservations, stock data, bank card payments, customer loyalty schemes, all at the point of sale. The range of applications through the Android platform make the VR-100 a great tool to help grow your business. For more information
T +44 (0)20 8208 9510 E BSD@casio.co.uk
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business advice and stylish interiors
h t u o y ake Qu
interiorscape
Cut & Sew
Crow Street, Temple Bar, Dublin Housed in a record store, Cut & Sew is a cool new addition to the Dublin salon scene, as owner Sean Bryan explains
Space: We are in the basement of All City Records, surrounded by a tattoo parlour and vintage store. It’s on a street that is full of inspiration and hipsters. Team: Just me! Sean Bryan, 26 years old. I can cut, colour and style hair and I’m also a graffiti artist (known as KONK). Styling: Two styling stations. Backwash: Just the one. Inspiration: A combination of retro ’80s graffiti influences and contemporary design. Each aspect of the shop needed to be given its place – we have a wall of graffiti spray cans and a turntable. The design: Ciara McGonigal was my designer/architect. As the footprint of the shop is relatively narrow and long, there was a lot to pack in. The plan is very linear, drawing the customer into the space. Mirrors applied to the back wall of the shop reflect the streetscape from Crow Street and give the illusion of more space and light. The salon was defined as a separate space from the record shop by a change in flooring to classic black and white barbers tiles and a change in lighting so that it glows from the back of the shop as you enter. The colour palette: The aesthetic of the spray can wall is so strong and provides a really appealing grid of colour. The palette was kept minimal to allow the colours of the cans to be the focus. Favourite area: At my section. Here you are on stage when tending to a client. They have walked in off the street to come to you to make their hair look better. That’s a huge compliment and I love being in that position. Future plans: To expand! I need more space and staff.
Creative Creative Head HEAD Ireland 14 18
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COLOUR THIS GREAT IS NEVER CREATED AT HOME
EXCLUSIVELY IN SALONS
www.xpertpro.ie
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Mahogany presentation at Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks
scene parties, people, places, faces
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Kim Delahunty
Sugar rush
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Trainee Awards winners
Mark O’Keeffe and Eugene Reilly Sr
Supporting trainee development and nurturing the future of hairdressing is something Brown Sugar owner Mark O’Keeffe is passionate about – and that was clear right from the start of proceedings at the salon’s third annual Trainee Awards. Taking place on a sunny Sunday at the boutique salon group’s South William Street location, it featured 22 trainees from the South William Street and the Blackrock salon. First, second and third-year trainees gathered there to compete, with two models a-piece showing off up-style, avant-garde and cut and colouring skills. From the moodboards and the styling to the well thought-out runway references, the standard was phenomenally high – making the judging process all the more difficult. The six judges on duty were Eugene Reilly Sr, who has more than 50 years experience in the industry; Brown Sugar owner Mark O’Keeffe; Peter O’Donnell, technical director for the Brown Sugar group; style directors Liam Boland and Christian Shannon; and incoming Creative HEAD Ireland editor, Aoibhinn McBride. After some debate and deliberation, the winners were announced. Beginners, Intermediate and Advanced plaques were awarded, along with a Team Player Award for each of the two salons. Finally, in memory of group’s much-missed Blackrock manager and chief stylist, Eugene Sr presented the very special Eugene Reilly Brown Sugar Trainee of the Year award.
Beginner: Amy Foley Intermediate: Kim Delahunty Advanced: Nicola Billings Eugene Reilly Brown Sugar Trainee of the Year award: Nicola Billings Team Player South William Street: Kim Delahunty & Rachel Potter Team Player Blackrock: Sallie-Ann Davis
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Dylan Bradshaw
Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock with Luigi Murenu
Kate with the Kérastase team and the K Stylists
scene
Along came
Kate Moss
Kate
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It was always going to be a night to remember; Kate Moss, session stylist Luigi Murenu, some of the hottest hairdressers and the biggest launch from Kérastase in years! More than 400 of the UK’s best hairstylists gathered at exclusive London venue One Mayfair to celebrate the launch of the new Kérastase Couture Styling collection – the first line of styling products in the brand’s near 50 years in the business. The collection was revealed onstage by Kérastase general manager for Ireland and the UK, Cass Coulston, before the audience got the chance to witness a tête-à-tête with Luigi Murenu – the artistic director for the Kérastase Couture Styling range and favoured hairdresser for A-listers such as Madonna and Scarlett Johansson – and Creative HEAD publisher, Catherine Handcock. What followed was some incredible styling! A team of eight Kérastase Styling ambassadors including Ken Picton, Leo Bancroft, Paul Edmonds, Johanna Cree Brown, Jason Miller, Skyler McDonald, Dylan Bradshaw and Stephen Low – known as the K Stylists – each presented two models in a gorgeously choreographed show that demonstrated the unique capabilities of the 11-strong styling line. Then everyone rushed down to the crypt to party with Kate, the face of Kérastase Couture Styling, who arrived in a blizzard of flashbulbs!
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Colin Greaney
True
Style and substance – it’s a powerful combination and it was at the core of the Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks show that took place at Croke Park’s Hogan Suite to a packed-out audience. The event, which was divided into two parts, focused on innovation and vibrancy throughout, but also on how the standout styles and high fashion trends on display could be translated into more commercial techniques in the salon. To kick things off, a team from the awardwinning Mahogany salon group, led by international creative director Colin Greaney and senior creative director Neil Atkinson, took to the stage with their models to offer insider tips on how to become a master of cutting precision, before Mahogany’s head of colour, Tai Walker, gave in-depth tips and tricks on how to achieve punchy pastels, vibrant coppers and rich reds. Next up, award-winning stylists Charlie Taylor and Andy Smith talked the crowd through four very distinct catwalk-inspired styles, ranging from sharp futuristic bobs to gorgeously glossy glam volume. And if all that wasn’t enough, there was also a short presentation on the new Schwarzkopf Professional House of Color App that allows salons to record and retain specific client colour details, including development time and finished results. The Essential Looks show not only gave us something to look at, it gave us something to think about, too.
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Tai Walker
colours
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STAR2013 TEAM THE IHF ARE LOOKING FOR THE NEXT GENERATION OF TRAINEE SUPERSTARS TO FORM THE STAR TEAM 2013.
Do you want to be part of the most exciting team in Irish Hairdressing. Do you want to be inspired, take part in hair shows, fashion shows, photo shoots, work alongside industry greats and get an amazing 12 months free education from hairstyling icons.
How to apply for the IHF STAR TEAM STEP ONE
STEP TWO
Celebrity Stylist and Star Team Mentor Olive Tucker
Application Form
Closing Date: 31st May 2013
Short Listing
STEP THREE
Mentoring
STEP FOUR
Final Judging
STEP FIVE
Awards
Please contact the IHF for an IHF Star Team entry form at 056-8833808/0866995003 or email: secretary@irishhairfed.com
Aviva Stadium, Dublin
Field of dreams
If you want to encourage, inspire and coach your business onto an even bigger playing field, it’s time to enter the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards The Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards are back, and bigger and better than ever. With fresh formats that make entering even easier, a new-look website and a prestigious new venue – the President’s Suite at Dublin’s Aviva Stadium – this year’s awards promise to be truly inspirational. Taking place on 21 October, the awards recognise business excellence and are open to every salon in the country, regardless of what brands they use. Last year’s 10th anniversary celebrated what makes the awards uniquely Irish. Now in its second decade, the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards will continue to help salons focus on what makes their businesses successful, with a theme that illustrates the fine line between success and failure. “Hairdressing is fundamentally a creative industry and traditionally it hasn’t been recognised for its business acumen – that has always been a bit of a grey area,” says
Lee Bradshaw, national sales manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Ireland. “When we started in 2003 we had six categories and an audience of 65 people; last year we had more than 450 hairdressers in attendance and 20 awards, so the growth has been phenomenal. It’s all down to the industry realising that it needs to up its game commercially to stay in the game creatively.” This is something that award winner and Hall of Fame veteran Caroline Foley-Kearns advocates. Having won Retail Salon of the Year in 2004, 2007, 2008 and again in 2012, the owner of Caroline Hair Creation knows only too well what entering the awards can do for your business. “Every time you enter the awards you’re forced to look at your business as an outsider looking in, so you get a completely different point of view. Examining our business in this way highlighted where we needed to improve, where we were doing well and what customers thought of our salon,” she reveals.
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Lee Bradshaw
Business Awards
Another appealing part of the awards is how inclusive it is – any salon, regardless of size, location or product affiliation can enter and with certain awards recognising each of the five regions – Munster, Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Dublin – with a trophy, you can work your way up to a national title. “We’ve won a couple of awards in the past and the first time we entered I was hesitant because I thought I wasn’t good enough,” explains Lynda Maher, owner of Lynda Maher Hair Studios. “But no matter how big or small your salon is, it’s important to just believe in yourself and enter.” And although winning is, of course, the ultimate goal, Lynda stresses that simply by entering you’ll reap the rewards. “Being a finalist is a bonus, and being a winner is an even bigger one. But really, it’s about rallying your team together and being the best you can be.” This is something that Trainee of the Year 2012
Emma Doran, from Dublin salon Davey Davey, has experienced first-hand. “I never really thought I had the confidence to enter but my bosses, Ian and Paul Davey, gave me so much support and encouragement and the extra kick I needed.” she reveals. As the deadline is 21 June, you still have plenty of time to get your entries in and you can enter as many categories as you want. “It takes time to put together your entry form but I really enjoyed doing mine because it gave me the chance to verbalise everything I am passionate about, what inspires me and where I want to succeed in the future,” Emma concludes. Still not convinced? Consider this: “From the venue to the surprise guest speaker, we’re really bringing home the business message,” says Lee Bradshaw. “And just think, when else will you be able to say you’ve lifted a trophy in the Aviva Stadium?” So, what are you waiting for? It’s all kicking off…
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SALON OF THE YEAR
Winners from each regional Salon of the Year award – Munster, Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Dublin – will be automatically entered into the race to take home the national title.
MUNSTER/LEINSTER/ CONNACHT/ULSTER/ DUBLIN REGIONAL SALON OF THE YEAR
These categories are open to all salon owners, but for owners of multiple salons, entry must be based on one salon only. Dublin Salon of the Year entries are to include salons in Dublin city and county only, while Leinster Salon of the Year entries are for Leinster salons excluding Dublin city and county. Salons that strive to be the best and have everything it takes to prove it are the salons that have been successful in the past. So, if your business is well-run, looks the part, has standout staff, offers innovative training programmes and has a real sense of brand awareness, this is the category for you.
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the Year 2012 unster Salon of Niall Colgan, M
This year there are 10 categories with 25 awards up for grabs – the largest number of awards being handed out to date
Zeba Hairdressing, Sal on of the Year 2012
The Categories
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Business Awards
Customer Care Award
They’re the first person a client talks to when making an appointment over the phone and they’re often the chief organiser of everyone’s diary, as well as being the chief retail sales adviser. This award, in its second year, aims to give recognition to one of the most vital elements to your customer service and the person who is at the heart of the salon – front of house or reception.
Website of the Year
Salons that have fully embraced the digital age should enter this category. Your website should be informative, multi-functional, highlight the ethos of your salon and excite and entice visitors. You should be savvy on social media and up to speed with the latest innovations.
ward 2012 y, Training A Queen Academ
Receptionist/Front of House award
The Davey Davey tea m celebrate multiple win s last year
If you consistently give clients an unforgettable, fivestar service, your salon could be worthy of the customer care award. Put simply, the entry form will require you to answer a range of question to prove your seamless customer service credentials as well as give evidence of outstanding incentives or loyalty schemes offered.
Training Award
This award recognises business owners who have put their faith in the future of hairdressing by implementing an incredible training programme to nurture new talent and to help more established hairdressers who are constantly looking to build upon their existing skills. You should demonstrate how trainees move through the system from start to finish, and what happens once team members are fully qualified.
How to get started
The Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Awards are free to enter and open to all Irish salons one or more categories you know your salon or one of your team members will excel in. 2. Download
an entry form at www.ihbawards.ie.
3. Hold
a team meeting to discuss each category you’ve selected and take notes on why or how you or a candidate shines in this area. 4. Compile
the necessary facts, statistics and imagery to back up all your information. 5. See
Creative HEAD Ireland’s June issue for a list of top tips on compiling an award-winning entry from last year before you submit your application.
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Anna Forde and Da vid Hosty at last yea r’s awards
1. Select
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Keville Hairdres sing,
Leinster Salom of the
Year 2012
don d Jeesica Gor Amy Nixon an year’s awards at last
Year 2012 Website of the Davey Davey,
Social Responsibility Award
From engaging with those in need in the local community to organising charity events, this award recognises salons that go above and beyond the call of duty and who have made a difference at home or abroad. Volunteering, fundraising or any activity that has a positive impact is worthy of inclusion.
Marketing Salon of the Year
From social media to sponsoring local events, finding new and innovative ways to promote your business is no easy task. But, marketing is not just about getting customers through your door; it’s about cultivating a distinctive brand image and knowing exactly who you are. Among a number of important factors, you’ll need to define your brand, give details of your marketing campaigns in the last year and show how you monitored each one.
Salon Design award
If you have an exciting salon with interiors to match, or have recently undergone an extensive refit, then you qualify for this category. As it’s a visual award, top quality images that show off your salon to its full potential are a must, but so are your figures. It’s not about how much you spent but about how your design has reaped the financial rewards, too.
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Schwarzkopf Professional Retail Salon of the Year
Schwarzkopf Professional Retail Salon of the Year Munster/Ulster/ Connacht/Leinster/ Dublin
Caroline Hair Cre ations, Sch warzkopf Profession al Retail Salon of the Year 2012
Winners from each of the five regional Schwarzkopf Professional Retail Salon of the Year award – Munster, Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Dublin – will automatically go forward for this award.
ards last year’s aw David Lee at d an e Le rke Olive Tuc
Business Awards
For the first time ever, Schwarzkopf Professional will be rewarding each of the five regions, with the salon gaining the most points being awarded the overall Schwarzkopf Professional Retail Salon of the Year title. This category is open to all salons that stock one of more of the Schwarzkopf Professional retail ranges – Essensity, OSiS, BlondeMe, BC Bonacure, Seah Hairspa, Silhouette and [3D]Mension – and display strong retail figures.
Trainee of the Year
Winners from each of the five regional Trainee of the Year awards – Munster, Ulster, Connacht, Leinster and Dublin – will automatically go forward for Trainee of the Year.
Trainee of the Year Munster/Ulster/ Connacht/Leinster/ Dublin
This category is open to any salon junior who has been in training for a minimum of 12 months and a maximum of four years up to the end of June 2013. This category is not about hairdressing skills – passion, career progression and going the extra mile are what the judges are looking for and more than one trainee per salon can enter. The entry must be submitted by the trainee under the supervision and guidance of the salon owner/manager.
The closing date for entries is 21 June. Additional information can be found on www.ihbawards.ie Creative Head Ireland 31
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Love buzz Charismatic colour, inspirational images and cuts so creative they send a tingle up your spine – welcome to the 33rd edition of Schwarzkopf Professional’s electrifying Essential Looks collection, Colour Buzz
From the catwalk to the salon and everything in-between, Schwarzkopf Professionals’ Essential Looks 1: 2013 collection, Colour Buzz, is the culmination of ideas, catwalk trends and inspirational colour palettes. Not many people know the Colour Buzz collection quite like Charlie Taylor, owner of Charlie Taylor Hair Health & Beauty, who was given the opportunity to present her interpretation of one of the new looks live onstage at the Essential Looks world tour in Berlin! Here, she lets us into her world of colour, reveals what she likes about Colour Buzz and why you need to get it into your salon now.
Charlie Taylor
Get the trends in the salon – Charlie taylor shows us how!
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White Angles
Electric Youth
This trend has strong angular cuts and big statement looks complemented by bold stunning colours. With short medium and long interpretations to work with, these styles are for clients who want to make a statement.
For the youthful rebel, this trend is modern, flexible and stunning. The hair has a lot of texture and varying lengths within the cuts. The colours are vibrant reds, multi-tonal pastels and deep overall bases.
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Creative Head
Promotion
Creative HEAD: What is the Colour Buzz collection about? Charlie Taylor: Colour Buzz is the new Essential Looks collection by Schwarzkopf Professional and is the launchpad for the Igora Royal range. The trends comprise White Angles, Electric Youth, Glam Chic and Mono Mods, with each showcasing the new season colours. CH: What do you think of the new collection? CT: I absolutely love it! I have immediately got behind it and I am very excited about the new season ahead – I’m really looking forward to presenting the looks on the Essential Looks roadshow. CH: Can these looks be translated easily into the salon? CT: Definitely. The whole point of Essential Looks is that the collection is commercial and, although there is a powerful version in each trend, a version that suits most clients is always represented.
CH: Which trend do you think will appeal to clients most? CT: I think Glam Chic has the widest appeal. It is very wearable and looks great in all the lengths shown in the trend portfolio. The colours are easy to wear and are very flattering. CH: Which trend do you like the most? CT: My favourite trend is Mono Mods. When I saw this in Berlin onstage, it really wowed me. For a professional brand to be so bold with colour was inspirational. CH: How will you get your salon team involved? CT: It is important for me to get my own team onboard right away and to make sure they all understand the step-by-steps, so I will shortly be hosting an event to showcase Colour Buzz to my teams. Then our clients will see the new looks and be encouraged to browse the Essential Looks book for inspiration, backed up by expert advice from our stylists and make-up artists.
Glam Chic
Mono Mods
Hair has volume and beautiful shape. The cuts have gentle outlines, with layers for sexy volume that are easily adapted to any hair length. For colour, it’s chocolate browns, golds and rich red/burgundy tones.
Looks are graphic and demand well-conditioned hair. Big fringes dominate and block colours contrast with blondes and darks alongside each other. Numerous variations of length and colour can be created.
Get the Essential Looks Colour Buzz collection into your salon now. Call 01 404 6424 or visit www.schwarzkopf-professional.com
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Look who’s talking… h t u o y ake Qu Age 24
Brenda O’Brien Any given month you can find Brenda working on a special project as a member of the Sean Taaffe Artistic Team. Brenda’s hardworking nature ensured her a win as Munster Trainee of the Year at the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards, and an Outstanding Contribution Award at the Sean Taaffe Hair & Beauty annual awards.
Age 22
Emma Doran
Emma shot to the top of our One to Watch list less than a year ago when judging the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards, where she won Trainee of the Year. Working at Davey Davey, Emma is perfectly placed to assist senior salon members on fashion shoots and shows, and she does so regularly.
Age 25
Ivan Kostadinov After moving from his home country of Bulgaria to Dublin, Ivan joined Peter Mark as a trainee. He was soon assisting the Peter Mark Artistic Team and group creative director Gary Kavanagh at Dublin Fashion Week, on RTÉ and on Peter Mark campaigns. His column numbers are also pivotal and seeing clients return for his great service is paramount.
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YouthQuake
They are the most educated generation in history and have been using computers, social media tools and other technologies since they were toddlers. Feedback is their fuel – the more immediate the better. Forget work-life balance, it’s all about work-life blending. Whether you like it or not, today’s under 25s are slowly but surely transforming workplaces. Want to know the truth about youth? We meet seven rising stars to talk hair and ambition
Age 21
Danielle O’Neill After qualifying last April, Danielle O’Neill walked straight into the Wella Professionals Generation NOW team auditions and wowed a panel of top international judges to earn a place on the career-boosting crew. Since then she’s worked on shoots and shows for the brand, and was named House of Colour, D’Olier Street, Hairdresser of the Year at the group’s awards this year.
Age 23
Elaine Farrelly
In 2011 Elaine scooped the Young Colourist Award at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy. The results saw her earn a prize that included a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Specialist Degree, graduating with a score of 99 per cent. She is part of the Hession Hairdressing Artist Team and also sits on the IHF Junior Council.
Age 22
Aaron Keily
With a major interest in fashion, you’ll find Aaron picking up the latest magazines when he’s not shooting with creative cohorts. With friends in fashion at NCAD, Aaron was fast to sweep in and offer hair services for whatever is needed. Currently embarking on his final year of training at Dylan Bradshaw, Aaron is gunning to be fully qualified and grow his column.
Age 21
Riona Linnane
Riona has a thirst to explore new cultures, which sent her to Dubai Fashion Week. Back in Tipperary, Riona won a competition sponsored by Urban Hype. Within a year, she was a team leader at Urban Hype and soon transferred to manage the group’s Clonmel base. She is also working the hair at Eurovision.
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h t u o y ake Qu
Aaron: I was always into hair, trying new looks.
How did you get into hair? Elaine: I was 14 when I started working in a local salon, where most of the clients were over 65. I got a job at Hession Hairdressing when I was 17 after spotting owner Paul Hession at a Justin Timberlake concert! I went straight over to ask for a job. He gave me his number, I called him and I started as a Saturday girl the next week. Danielle: I always wanted to be a hairdresser. I was fascinated by people’s hair on TV and in magazines and knew that I wanted to be responsible for doing that. Ivan: I used to hate hairdressers, actually. Every time I went to the barbers they would never get my hair right, so I decided to cut it myself and realised I enjoyed it. I did a barbering course in Bulgaria where I’m from, and worked as a barber for a year before moving to Dublin as my Dad lived here. I asked around where would be a good salon to start and everyone said Peter Mark.
I got a Saturday job in a local salon and just loved it from day one. Brenda: I was thinking of studying Spanish and becoming an air hostess or getting into hairdressing. I went to a local salon to see if hair was for me and I had a desperate experience, but I still felt there was more to it. I decided to go to hairdressing college and secure some work experience. I knew Sean Taaffe was the best salon in town but I was a client and I wanted to get a job for the right reasons. I walked into so many salons and kept getting turned down. I couldn’t understand how any salon could refuse the offer of free work. So my first preference was my last resort – I got a placement at Sean Taaffe and I have been there ever since. Riona: I was working with a stylist in Dubai and loved the hair side of fashion. When I returned to Tipperary I got a job as a trainee through a hair competition on Beat FM. I gave hair a shot and it worked out really well. Emma: I come from a family of hairdressers. It started with my great granddad’s salon, which was set up in 1911 in Rathmines. My mum and dad are hairdressers and I’d always go into their salon in Phibsborough and help out wherever I could. I just loved it. My parents warned me about the industry – they said it’s harder than you think and your first four years will be spent cleaning up and washing hair, which is mostly true but I knew what I was getting into.
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YouthQuake
Do family and friends understand what it means to be a hairdresser today? Aaron: I remember my dad’s face when I told him I was going to be a hairdresser, but he soon got used to it. My uncles were the worst. Now two of my friends have gotten into hair after going through college. Ivan: I remember my dad’s face, too. At the start he was a bit shocked and thought it was unusual for a lad to do. Now he thinks I have a great job and enjoys getting free haircuts. Elaine: My mum and dad ask why I put myself through it and do all the extra hours. If there are family nights out and I have something on, they will say: “Just tell work you can’t do it.” But I reply: “I’m launching a colour for L’Oréal Professionnel, I can’t just turn around and say no.” Emma: My parents always said that if I go into hairdressing then I should open my own salon. However I feel it’s really important to establish myself first. There’s no point in opening a salon if nobody knows who you are.
Do you think it’s different for men working in hair? Elaine: Female clients react differently to male
hairdressers, they love men! Emma: I think women prefer it when men tell them that
they look great. Ivan: I would agree women like coming to male
hairdressers, more so than men. At the start men were reluctant to come to me. But word got around and I slowly built my column. Elaine: Most of the best hairdressers are men. Well, the best known nationally and internationally. Brenda: I don’t think you should say it’s a male or female thing. I just think that women prefer men to do their hair. Aaron: It’s harder for males to pick up key skills starting out – I’d never put a ponytail in hair before!
and shoots, and whose names appear in small credits rather then the big branding machines of the likes of Nicky Clarke are the real hair icons. Eugene Souleiman, Odile Gilbert and Adam Reed are some of the most creative. The good thing is that these people are getting more credit now in magazines like Vogue, Elle or LOVE. Brenda: I think we have some great hair stars on our doorstep. Dylan Bradshaw is a celebrity and Alan Keville is making a great name for himself. I don’t think you have to look too far.
do you enjoy dealing with clients? Aaron: Relationships are really important in this industry and you can never judge a person on first impressions. I have a very wealthy client who is very polished and sophisticated. She turned around to me the other day and said: “Are you watching Love/Hate?” It bowled me over and made me realise you can’t make assumptions about people. Riona: Being in a salon is like walking out on stage. No matter how you feel, you put a face on and give each client the best treatment. Emma: I love getting to know my clients, getting to know them as people and doing a good job so they want to come back to me for more. Elaine: Seeing a client can be like therapy. You can tell a client something that you wouldn’t even tell your sister and they will tell you private things. At the end of an appointment you can both walk away feeling amazing. Emma: And then you can relate to that person so much better when they come back in. Riona: Clients really appreciate that extra level of service.
Who do you consider an icon in the hair world today? Danielle: I think most people live in the past when it comes to hair idols and celebrities. Emma: Vidal Sassoon was amazing but he’s not who inspires me today. Aaron: I look up to Eugene Souleiman and Errol Douglas MBE. Danielle: I admire Adam Reed. He does things in a different way to anyone I have ever worked with. Riona: Adam Reed for me, too. It’s his vision. Emma: The people working behind the scenes on shows
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Elaine: Me too. I just want to tap people on the shoulder
and get them to come to the salon. As a hairdresser you’re constantly working. If I go away for a weekend, I spend the first few hours or day repeatedly telling myself to stop thinking about work. Aaron: Hairdressing isn’t a job, it’s a way of life.
Do you think celebrity looks are important to the hair world?
There’s such a need for speed these days and you all seem so passionate to learn. Did your four-year training seem too long?
Danielle: Yes, based on the amount of people who will come into our salon asking for a Rihanna haircut. For us it’s great as they are willing to be more daring because of people like her. Elaine: Or Cheryl Cole. Danielle: People will reference celebrities more than anyone else. Emma: They are the trendsetters, the people most in the public eye. Ivan: Not everyone buys Elle or Vogue, they read gossip magazines or watch reality TV, so celebrities are important.
Who are the most mentioned celebrities in your salons? Emma: Sienna Miller is a big request, even her hair looks Brenda: It depends on how you approach your training.
I was entering competitions and getting involved with the art team while still qualifying. You’re training part time and working full time in the salon, so it’s pretty full-on and time-consuming to juggle both. Aaron: I think the extra years are better as it matures you as a person. Danielle: Definitely. Some of the new recruits that start with us are so used to having their parents do everything for them. Our training is only two years but it’s intense. Ivan: The moment you go on the floor, your mindset changes. Nothing you do in training can prepare you for it.
Was hairdressing what you imagined it would be?
from five years ago. We have iPads for clients in the salon with a library of shots across fashion, celebrity and editorial. Riona: Rihanna. There are weeks where she changes her hairstyle every day. Aaron: I’m always asked for Kate Moss or Alexa Chung. Ivan: Taylor Swift is becoming a popular request. Brenda: We get a lot of Jessica Biel. Emma: Alexa Chung has been great for colour. People are getting a lot braver now, asking for balayage because of her. Danielle: I don’t think people even know what balayage is. Especially when you have those horrendous home dye kits telling people they can achieve the look on their own. Emma: They shouldn’t bring things out like that. Especially when they come from brands that do professional colour. The only upside is that people who use the kits might come to us to be rescued.
Brenda: It’s so much more. It’s a versatile career. That’s
why you work the hours because there are so many opportunities – whether it’s entering a competition or building your colour column. Ivan: I never knew how much science there was to hair. You also need to have really good people skills and be ready to listen, not only to your clients but your colleagues. Danielle: I’m constantly looking at hair. Anytime I look at the TV or read a magazine, hair is the first thing I see. Even if I’m on the bus I’m looking at people’s hair!
What is your least favourite aspect of the job? Elaine: The hours when you have so much on. This week
I’ll be home every night after 9pm and I’m working seven days, not all in the salon but at events, too. Danielle: I agree. Even on your day off you spend it on competition work or getting together ideas for a shoot. Brenda: You can’t have it all, you have to make sacrifices
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YouthQuake
and work can get in the way of a social life. Being the person who says no isn’t easy. You don’t want to let anyone down. Aaron: When we were doing the L’Oréal Colour Trophy show, I was in the salon every Sunday for three months. The week before, there was one night when I left at 3am. But I wouldn’t have it any other way. Emma: For me, a lot of people can look down on you. They think that you only got into hairdressing because you didn’t want to do your Leaving Cert and because you’re good for nothing else. Aaron: Some people go to college and end up getting into debt – we do an apprenticeship and get paid! Brenda: When people find out I’m only just qualified, yet I’ve been working in the salon four years, they can’t believe it. They think you can walk in and be trained in no time. People just don’t understand the hair industry at all. Fashion designers don’t just don’t walk into a studio and create clothes after one day of training. Riona: The time I came into the industry wasn’t a good time. We were in the depths of recession. When it’s quiet you can only clean the salon so many times and it’s hard to motivate a team.
How has the recession affected your work? Elaine: Before the recession clients were coming to me
every six weeks, now some come to me every 12 weeks. Riona: It’s statistically worse in the Southeast. It’s up to
h t u o y ake Qu
a business head. It could all go really badly, really quickly if you don’t pull your weight. Elaine: It makes you be a better hairdresser, as clients are demanding more. They want value for money, which is delivered through an amazing service. People will pay full price if they know they are going to get something good. Brenda: Ever since the recession, trainees are getting better and more ambitious. A couple of years ago, people had too much money and didn’t need to work half as hard as they do now. The recession is helping to sift out the bad.
If you were to specialise in any area of hair what would it be? Ivan: Cut and colour. That’s what I do and I will continue
to do. I have a preference for doing everything myself. Aaron: Session hair and cutting. Emma: I’d like to do it all. Education, session hairdressing and I always want to have a presence in the salon. Session gives you freedom but the salon work is just as important. Danielle: I would prefer to do colour more then anything else. I love being able to play with colour and I get involved with testing. Colour has the power to completely change someone’s image. Riona: I love cutting hair beyond words. I like the business side of hairdressing, too. Brenda: I’d veer more to the education side. Elaine: I want to do it all: clients, education, session.
every 16 weeks in some instances as unemployment is so high. We’re learning to cope and have to give special offers. We have learnt we can’t do exactly what Dublin salons do, as the climate is so different. Ivan: The recession for me isn’t that bad anymore. I think a lot of it’s in people’s heads. I have clients who come to me and talk about the recession, yet they’re still coming in regularly. They might have been in the week before for a blow-dry and are in the salon again for a colour. When it comes to the recession we all need to let it go from the conversation. Brenda: I think we’re all so much more conscious of how much everything costs. You have to respect that there is someone paying the bills, paying for the stock. There’s no wastage anymore. You have to be the whole package – a stylist with
Creative Head Ireland 39
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h t u o y ake Qu Brenda: When you realise that you are a qualified
expert and you have authority, then selling becomes much more natural. What’s the point in carrying out a colour service on a client without suggesting a colour care range? Danielle: There are people who just come in and do their job and go home and don’t really take into account how much their column has turned over. I could never be like that. Brenda: It’s very hard for businesses now. It’s so easy to blame your boss but at the end of the day it’s you that’s responsible for bringing in the extra money. Our bosses are under extreme pressure – there are endless taxes and bills to pay and we all have to do our bit. Riona: Because most of us got into hairdressing during a recession, turnover and productivity has always been part of our job. Asking someone to do it who’s had it good for so many years is harder than asking someone who is new and fresh. I think we have a different vision as a generation. Danielle: I don’t understand people who don’t want to be there. Why are they in this industry?
If you could change one thing in the hair world, what would it be?
Is the business side of hairdressing something that’s important to you?
Brenda: To see more Irish hairdressers being recognised.
Elaine: It’s key to keep track of what you do to keep
challenging yourself. It’s a good way of saying: “Look what I’ve done.” I enjoy the challenge of increasing my figures; I get really competitive. Ivan: It’s so important. I ask myself what did I do this time last year, what am I doing now and how can I improve that? My manager does put pressure on me but not as much as I would put on myself. Emma: Retail is so important to me. I don’t get commission as I’m a trainee, however I do get rewards under a points system. Every time I shampoo someone I’ll ask if they want a treatment. The first few times I was petrified to ask, but you overcome that. Now it’s just a natural part of the process and what’s the worst that can happen? Someone will say no? I think people would like to be asked more then not because they know that you’re taking an interest in their hair. Aaron: If they know you’re not trying to force it upon them, just being an expert and taking an interest in the condition of their hair, then you’ve nothing to be afraid of.
I suppose that’s up to our peers and us to PR the industry in the correct way. We need to talk ourselves up a bit more. Ivan: More events and competitions. There aren’t enough. We need more opportunities to see hair and to compete. You can go on courses to learn techniques but trends are constantly evolving. Peter Mark is great because we have in-house competitions, so I’m fortunate to experience more than others. Danielle: More competitions. You can’t be seen to enter one award with one brand if you work with another. It’s a pity because it’s just the competition that we love, being inspired by hair and benchmarking yourself against others. Elaine: I’d love for something like the Great British Hairdresser TV show to be in Ireland. That would be a brilliant opportunity to showcase what Irish hairdressing is like. Just watching it last year I was thinking ‘I could do that better than them’. Danielle: And the girl who won was Irish! Emma: To maintain service levels. I don’t think the passion is there with some salons. A lot of people who have spent years in the industry aren’t as interested in their business anymore. They’re not interested in educating teams, putting money into sending people on courses, they use to be but it’s all about their pension or exit plan. Brenda: It would be great to do an exchange programme with other salons, if only for a week. I think everyone has something to learn from others.
Creative Head Ireland 40
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YouthQuake
Photography by Sean Jackson at Morgan The Agency, Dublin
What drives you to succeed?
Elaine: To be a big name hairdresser. I don’t know
Emma: Money is a big factor because you spend so much
on maintaining yourself for your career – clothes to look good on the floor, for one. Clients won’t come to me if I’m not turned out, looking stylish and professional. Mostly I’m motivated to be the best. I want to be known for what I do. Aaron: To win competitions. That will get my name out there and it’s the making of a good hairdresser. Brenda: Having great clients who will promote me because they love what I do, but money is another factor.
why people wouldn’t want that. Money is a factor but hairdressing is so much more than that. It’s about being constantly creative. Danielle: Competition motivates me. I want to be the best, whether that’s salon versus salon, me versus the stylist working beside me. Money is important, in order to look the part in work. Ivan: Competition and creativity. Riona: To be more successful and established. You have to be competitive to become those things. I have a five and 10-year plan and my goals motivate me. I say yes to every opportunity that comes my way. I’m a stylist but I manage a salon. When a local celebrity presenter cancelled and couldn’t host our annual awards, I did it. If you don’t try these things you’ll never know.
A special thanks to Dylan Bradshaw Academy for allowing us to host this unique debate at their premises Creative Head Ireland 41
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CREATIVITY, SKILL AND PASSION – THE PETER MARK HAIR STYLING AWARDS 2013
Gary Kavanagh
Michael Doyle
Sean Dawson
Mens Full Fashion Award: Edita Andonova, Style Club South William Street with her model Derk Dekorver
Ladies Full Fashion Award: Eilish Maloney, Style Club South Willian Street with her model Laura Rooney
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Nathan Walker
O
nce again, the ballroom of the Burlington
Hotel was a riot of colour as over 200 Peter Mark stylists took to the floor to prove to their peers that they are the ones to watch. Creativity, passion and skill were in abundance as trainees, graduates and
Creative Fantasy Award: Peter O’Rourke presenting to Ruth Robertson, Peter Mark Stephen’s Green S/C
stylists showed off their best in colour, cut, finish and a keen eye for a full fashion look to a panel of judges from home and abroad. Joining the well known Irish faces on our judging panel which included Peter Mark Fashion and Media Stylist, Michael Doyle; Holly O’Keeffe, Michael Corcoran and Suzie Dowling from the Peter Mark College and Irish Independent Fashion Editor Bairbre Power were Nathan Walker from the Trevor Sorbie Group and Sean Dawson from HOB Salons in the UK. This year, for the first time there was a special fashion styling award presented by Bairbre Power to the entrant in each category that she felt captured an overall high fashion look. Throughout the day, all the judges were wowed by the incredible talent on show and found reaching a final decision so tough. In the end though, decide they had to and as the pictures show, our winners can be justly proud.
Trainee Award: Danielle Whelan, Style Club South William Street with her model Lauren Taylor
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fashion
The mode l, Clara, is f rom Cork and represent ed by Dublin ag ency Andrea Ro che. As soon a s I saw her I knew I wanted to shoot with her
We shot with a yo ung Irish photographer called Eilish McCormick. I had st umbled across a shoot she had done in Suburbia magazin e and really liked her style
ot The sho o o thly went sm ually and act d finishe st o M . early ons collecti ot s e h that I’v n have ru pending over, s ds in hundre me overti
r We were aiming fo a very commercial, current look, something that would put bums on seats
Storyboard Commerciality and collaboration are king for Toni&Guy Ireland’s latest salon campaign, as art director Denis Robinson explains
Creative Head Ireland 45
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m ea y T … Art arne e id eland ien C er? s v in uy Ir Dam all o urse l so i&G from coo , of co l A Ton s cuts e and ons e it al os th wh t S -gl h m d p ig ro an nce ,h ef r k r a c o la C o ine M b l a i s rv at’ mb u h C W hu C 18/4/13 11:17:31
Vantage point Creating looks that would spark hundreds of copycat requests was the aim of Toni&Guy Ireland’s latest collection, Thrive. Mission accomplished Photography Eilish McCormick
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Fashion Promotion
Hair Toni&Guy Ireland Art Team Creative direction Denis Robinson Make-up Sarah Jane Lanagan Styling Ruth Anna Coss
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Fashion
Curve your enthusiasm
Peplums, curvilinear colour blocking and slinky metallics seen across S/S13 catwalks inspire Joico ambassador Damien Carney Photography by Hama Sanders
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Hair Damien Carney Colour Sue Pemberton Creative direction Joseph Suarez Make-up Waler Obal Styling Nikko Kefalas
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Fashion
Modern times Inspired by Mod style, Epiphany from Chumba Concept Salons incorporates strong geometric shapes and high black and white contrasts for a contemporary edge Photography by Carl Keeley
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Hair Steffi Tanian from Chumba Concept Salons, Australia Make-up Debbie Litkowski
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Simone Rocha
sc h oo l
tr i p
As the final looks stepped out at Simone Rocha S/S13, the Stone Roses I Wana Be Adored kicked in. Her wish was granted, and it had nothing to do with Ian Brown’s nostalgic notes. Young by industry standards – just 27 – Rocha’s talent precedes her years. “People think that Simone gets a major helping hand and that’s not the case,” says her hair constant, James Pecis. “She worked with her dad [designer John Rocha] for years and honed her skills even before she went to college.” Simone took us back to that time, with references including Ed Templeton’s Teenage Kissers and Perry Ogden’s Pony Kids, and the show invitation was a picture of a bleak field where she and her school friends used to drink. Models donned broderie anglaise dresses, bell skirts, collared shirts and brogues raised on Perspex, reminiscent of school uniforms. Backstage, the themes of purity and unruliness merged further, with James working a messy ponytail and hacked fringe – the kind only created hanging over a bathroom basin. Headbands fashioned by Rocha from Plexiglas and lace were popped on top, creating an evangelical air to the tattered tresses. “There’s a twisted sickness to the whole thing,” adds James.
E d i t e d
b y
S a r a h
Images courtesy of Bumble and bumble, Jason Lloyd-Evans, TIGI and Toni&Guy
Ashish
r u n w a y
M a n l e y
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Giles
Giles
Ooh, baby baby
Notes
from
a
s e a s on
Proenza Schouler
Popping up at shows from Dries Van Noten to Proenz a Schouler, Paul Hanlon lets us in on some S/S13 happenings
My most unusual fashion month moment… working more shows in New York City. Last season I did three in New York, this season I did nine. A session super power I’d love… is to be able to play the best music non-stop. It does something to people and keeps me going. A model I enjoyed getting my mitts on… was Canadian model Janice Alida. She’s the new Stella Tennant, she’s just amazing. She’s new but she’s wise – she used to have long waif hair but she’s cut it off. Follow me… I just don’t have time for Twitter but my agency, @J_WatsonAgency, tweets. My entourage comprises… a core team of 15. I then add eight to 12 people in London, Milan and Paris, who join us at various stages. If I’m sponsored I inherit an extra team of 15 to 20 people from a brand. My average hours of sleep during the shows is… no more than five a night. My food staple… I try to watch what I eat. This season in particularly I was more aware, as I had more shows and needed to stay healthy. I start with my porridge and banana and I can’t do anything without a coffee. I don’t speak until I have my coffee. I’m obsessed with Japanese food, which is healthy anyway. I drink loads of green tea frappuccinos in New York.
bag
it
Want to recreate the Salt ‘N’ Pepa, Parisian party girl Afro wigs seen at Mark Fast? TIGI global creative director Nick Irwin dishes up a three-step programme 1. Take a light brown wig and work lots of Catwalk by TIGI Session Series Dry Shampoo through the hair from root to tip. 2. Fiercely backcomb the hair into a round, dense Afro shape. 3. Using men’s clippers, shear the wig into a triangular shape.
u p
We ask session greats what oddities they carry in their kit-bag
“Sea salt flakes. I mix them with product as a lot of manufactured salt sprays are too heavy” Adam Reed
“Clear elastic from the orthodontist. It is pretty much unbreakable” “I like punky, dusty, coloured texture. I’m currently doing this with powdered pottery clay and organic food colour pigments” Anthony Turner
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“Fishing wire to invisibly lift hair. With it, hair can appear like it’s floating”
Indira Schauwecker
“Bounce tumble dryer sheets. They remove static from hair” Marc Trinder
Kenna
“A glue gun – the kind you’d find in a hardware store. On a recent shoot in Japan I had to make hair accessories, which is one of many times it has come in handy”
“Elastic from a haberdashery store that’s really thin and strong. I use it for everything and stalk Peter Jones stores, where I buy it in bulk. Whatever they’ve got, I buy it all” Maria Kovacs
James Pecis
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THE LAST WORD
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Like a boss
Life’s cushy – you’ve got a good job and a steady paycheck. So why give it all up to go it alone? It’s the modern equivalent of being a rock star, says John Egan, who went into business at the age of 24 Nobody starts a business just to start a business. People start them to achieve something beyond that which they currently have, beyond the reach of the person they currently are. There is no difference in motivation between someone starting a business in the hair industry and someone starting a business in the technology space. We’re all trying to express ourselves in the most effective way possible. There is, however, a difference between starting a business during a boom and starting a business in a recession. For the generation of Irish people old enough to know that Zach Morris and Kelly Kapowski belong together and young enough to understand that the pragmatism of Crocs does not and will not ever make them acceptable footwear, there is but one reality; we walk the tightrope without a safety net. There is something to be said though for the starkness of that existence. There is no surprise in it; we know what we’re getting ourselves into when we make that jump into the world of business ownership. It is difficult, stressful, claustrophobic and, at the same time, liberating. You feel very strongly that this one decision, good or bad, has given you ownership of your life, a single defining point where your life, and its eventual success or failure becomes your own responsibility. It seems counter-intuitive to start a business during a recession, especially when you’re young. It sounds
even more ludicrous to suggest that leaving your job to do it can be worthwhile. But that’s what I did. At 24, I walked out on a well-paid, solid position in a big company without a lot of savings to pursue something more meaningful. What I have experienced in the past four years far outweighs anything that could have been given to me. The places I have been to were only destinations on travel programmes. The things I’ve seen were beyond the most amazing ice cream-induced dreams. But, most of all, the people I’ve met have changed me fundamentally. Almost half a decade of once-in-alifetime conversations with once-in-a-lifetime people, all because I took what other people saw as a risk, but what I saw as an opportunity. I believe, absolutely, that skills you learn starting a business during a recession far outweigh those you pick up when times are good. Success might be hard to come by but when it does come along it’s euphoric, a sudden rush that justifies who you are as much as what you’ve done. Entrepreneurs are our generation’s rock stars and entrepreneurship our art form; our generation have something worth saying and it is true entrepreneurship we will be heard. John Egan is the chief executive of Archipelago, one of the largest groups of young entrepreneurs in Western Europe. Want to have your say? Email Aoibhinn@headmag.ie
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