Creative HEAD Ireland May/June 2014 by Alfol Publishing

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May/june 2014 creativeheadmag.com

The new wave

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Kirsten Dunst’s new “chic & messy” look, exclusively from your hairdresser

Wild Stylers THE 1ST INVISIBLE TEXTURIZING-STYLERS. A “tousled, dishevelled” hair effect No rough touch Approved by more than 100 backstage stylists

For more information on how to become a stockist contact your L’Oréal Professionnel Account Manager or contact Customer Services on 08456 000 122.

Exclusively in salons

Editor’s letter

44 24

hello...

We have big news! Creative HEAD Ireland is moving to double issues from this month, meaning more exciting content per issue – new business information and guidance; more features, more columns; more of just about everything, which you now have a little more time to read. We’re also introducing a programme of additional special issues that will cover a key area of salon business from top to bottom. Look out for a dedicated Colour supplement with our September/October issue – it will be packed with the trends, tips, techniques and products you need. In the meantime, get your salon in shape for summer with insider tips and tricks to help you boost retail sales – see our new business feature on page 12 and Last Word on page 58. We’re also taking a peek into the elusive world of session styling by talking to some leading figures on the Irish scene from page 40. And we’re giving you the lowdown on the latest essential equipment you need to have in your kit from page 42. As always we want to hear your views, so get in touch with suggestions of what you’d like to see in your magazine.

Aoibhinn McBride Editor

aoibhinn@headmag.ie Creative HEAD Magazine 04

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17/4/14 11:21:19

NO SCENT NO COLOUR SHAMPOO & CONDITIONER

No Scent No Colour is aimed at those of us with the most sensitive, delicate or easily irritated scalps: men, women or children. It is designed to answer the needs of the growing number of allergic and reactive skin types for whom fragrance and strong surfactants are not an option. In addition it will answer the needs of another group, those undergoing chemo/radiation therapy. Over the years Philip Kingsley has seen first hand how difficult it can be for cancer patients to find great colour free & fragrance free products. With all the difficulties they face, being unable to find good hair products just when they need them most was an added, unnecessary difficulty. Philip decided to use his tried and trusted clinic formulae and update them with newer, even gentler ingredients - the result, No Scent No Colour Range.

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07/04/2014 15:34:12

May/June

whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inside 40

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Life through a lens

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ireland

may/june 2014

We talk to the best session stylists in Ireland about what it takes to get to the top

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on the Cover Hair by Akos Bodi.

Last word

Ronan Perceval explains why salons need to avoid discounting and build loyalty instead

Colour by Christel Lundqvist. Styling by Jiv D. Make-up by Maria Vittoria Bortolussi. Photography by Roberto Aguilar.

Editor Aoibhinn McBride

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

Special Projects manager Write to us at: Creative HEAD Ireland Joanna Andersen

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

Online EDITOR Amy WOOD

Editor in chief Amanda Nottage

Art Graeme White

ADVERTISING MANAGER Ben Baldock

Publisher Catherine Handcock

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Creative HEAD Magazine

6-9 Trinity Street Dublin 2 016 177 947 aoibhinn@headmag.ie

the fault in our stars

Errol Douglas MBE explores colour and light in this dark fantasy Creative HEAD Ireland is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

@creativeheadirl Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:14:36

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16/4/14 10:19:54

#CHedit

The edit The news and know-how from your industry

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Peter Mark Creative Team

Salons are being warned to carefully manage negative reviews in light of national press coverage of a dispute between a salon in Wiltshire in the UK and an unhappy client. The dissatisfied customer wrote a negative review of her experience on the company’s Facebook page, which prompted a profanity-laced rant from the owner. Alice Kirby, director of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing, explained that while salons can’t stop clients posting negative reviews, there are measures they can take to limit the damage. She said: “Respond quickly and with respect. Start with a sincere, brief apology – even if you think the client is wrong. Then take the conversation offline by contacting them by phone or email. Never ignore the post or remove it yourself.” Eddie Mulligan, owner of Hype Hair Group in Waterford, has a procedure he follows to ensure these sorts of problems never happen. He said: “We have a complaints procedure in place so I would start off by addressing the customer in an apologetic manner and then invite them to go through the right channels and hopefully have a one-on-one conversation. “Often a client is unhappy because their perception of what they wanted is different to what they were given, or because they’re disappointed in their own choices. So if you’re polite and don’t disagree with them on public forums you can always resolve a problem.” Alice Kirby added: “Once you’ve resolved the grumble, ask the client to remove their original post. If they refuse, post a response saying you’re pleased it’s been resolved and thanking them for their feedback.”

Peter Mark Creative Team

salons urged to get a handle on bad reviews

L’Oréal reveals Colour Trophy Grand Final catwalk teams L’Oréal ProfessionNEl has unveiled the salon teams that will be presenting hair shows at the Colour Trophy Grand Final in June. Now in its 59th year and with an ethos that remains ‘Hair Inspired by Fashion’ the L’Oréal Professionnel ID ARTISTS, mentored by Tina Farey from Rush Hair Group will kick off the show while Alexandre de Paris, with a team led by Frédéric Pavard, will be creating the second. Judges announced so far include Daniel Galvin, Trevor Sorbie, Jason Miller and Andrew Mulvenna; and Joanne Larby, known as the ‘Make-up Fairy’, will be the official social media ambassador, responsible for live online coverage of the event on the night. get in touch How do you handle negative reviews? Tweet us with your stories @creativeheadirl

17/4/14 11:19:49

❤ we l o v e

Taiwan’s Hair O’right puts a new spin on all things green with its ‘Tree in a Bottle’. Once you’ve finished the shampoo, plant the seed-laden bottle and as it breaks down it becomes fertiliser to help the seeds grow!

The (seated) social network

in th e ho t se at

It’s musical chairs at Taylor Taylor’s Notting Hill salon in London, which has introduced a large ‘social’ table so that clients no longer have to sit in the same chair for hours. Taylor Taylor’s new idea is designed to make clients feel as comfortable as possible and enables them to browse the web on the salon’s iPads or sit back and relax with a friend while enjoying a cocktail or two.

Colour Graduates celebrate in London For the first time ever, the L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Specialist Irish Class of 2013 teamed up with its UK counterparts for their graduation ceremony at the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London. Graduates included, pictured above from left to right with mentors Siobhan O’Reilly and Thomas Bennett: Lucy Cashman, Toni&Guy, Dundrum; Ross Moffett, Ross Moffett Hair Salon, Monaghan; Nikki Atkinson, The Orange Room, Drogheda; Eryka Reid, Toni&Guy, Malahide; Kim Reynolds, Joseph Kramer, Stillorgan; Michael Downes, Foxy Chopper, Waterford; Leona Devlin, Toni&Guy, Clarendon Street; and (not pictured) Niamh Carr, The Hair Shop, Dundalk.

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Joico has unveiled Salon I-Deas, a new concept to teach hairdressers to tap into their creativity while still remaining consumer friendly. “Salon I-Deas features four salon-friendly and commercial cutting and colouring techniques,” said Joico vision director, Gianni Scumaci, about the initative that’s designed to help stylists better communicate with clients. “The techniques have been designed with suitability, versatility and adaptability in mind and can easily be applied to everyday salon work. Giving a client a cut or colour that suits their lifestyle is the best advertising for any salon.” One of the four Salon I-Deas styles

Some of this year’s graduates

Joico launches education concept

Creative Head Ireland

17/4/14 11:20:10

#CHedit

My months ahead What do May & June have in store for…

Gemma Crossan Gemma Crossan Hair, Sligo

The next couple of months are hectic, but I wouldn’t have it any other way! I’m on the countdown to the OMC Hairworld Championships in Frankfurt on 5th and 6th of May where I will represent Ireland for the second time. Then I’m travelling to New York to do a four-day bootcamp with stylist Sharon Blain.

Joan O’Meara Allure Hair Salon and School, Offaly

Trims and tunes

We love a multi-tasking salon space that doubles up as something other than a place for people to go to get their hair done! Barber shop by day, music venue by night, Abner Browns in Rathmines, Dublin is putting its unique music-inspired interior to good use. Owner David Judge explains: “It started with me having a mate play a few tunes on the couch on a Saturday, then a band, then an evening gig and now it’s gone crazy. I’ve been approached about a TV show and been offered a radio show. It’s a fantastic marketing tool. It goes to show how thinking outside the box can increase business.”

La BiosthÉtique starts search for 2014 star La Biosthétique is on the lookout for its next International Beauty Stylist. The competition aims to find and reward the most talented hairdressers from around the world. The Irish representative will be chosen on the 29 June where a winner will be invited to join other countries at a grand final in Paris on the 26 October. This year, there is one category – Total Beauty Look – where competitors will be judged on the overall look, which includes cut, colour, styling and make-up. If you would like the chance to represent Ireland, a completed entry form and a CD of your model images must be received by La Biosthétique by 30 May. “The La Biosthétique Beauty Stylist Award competition is a must for stylists who seek to meet the standard of international judges,” said Alexander Dinter, creative director for the brand.

We’re opening our Hair, Make-up and Beauty College in the next couple of weeks and we cannot wait as opening day draws near. We are proud to be the first private college in the area to offer ITEC accreditation and Junior & Senior Trade by the Department of Education.

Estelle Murphy

3 Degrees Hair Design, Cork

We’re looking forward to attending the Salon Focus course with the ever-so talented Alan Austin-Smith and getting business inspiration from him! We’re also rolling out a ‘Get the London Look’ theme in the salon after attending the Saco Academy in London and use fresh cutting and colouring techniques on our clients.

Creative HEAD App – download it now from the App Store Creative Head Ireland

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17/4/14 11:20:30

#CHedit business

The soft sell

Retail sales in the salon can be a lucrative part of your business, but only if your staff are educated to approach clients in the right way confidence is on the up – Irish consumer sentiment recorded its highest reading in nearly seven years in February, according to the latest index from KBC Bank Ireland and the ESRI. If they’re feeling confident then they’ll spend more, so how can you take advantage of that in your salon? “Many salons aren’t maximising the opportunity to cross-sell products to their clients,” says Alan Revitt, commercial and marketing director for Salon Services Ireland and UK. “On average, only one in four customers buy products from their salon. This is a missed opportunity as retail sales can be a significant source of revenue.” But are conventional techniques the best way to ensure retail sales? Anthony Whitaker, business coach and author of the GROW My Salon series, says the idea of the ‘hard sell’ will actually drive customers away. “It has to be about educating and informing, recommending and advising. It’s the stylist’s responsibility to educate clients about how to maintain their hair at home,” he reveals. “They have to explain what they are using,

Rising star Name: Elayne Archbold Age: 28 Salon: Brown Sugar, South William Street, Dublin

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Why did you want to be a hairdresser? I’ve wanted to be a hairdresser since as far back as I can remember. None of my dolls had hair (they always got my speciality – the Sinead O’Connor) and I was always playing with someone’s hair. My mum’s friends used to pay me to play with their hair so I saw from an early age that there was money in it!

what it does and how to use it at home. It’s all about education, not some shoddy secondhand car salesman’s technique to reach a target.” This is something Charlotte Bradshaw, director at Dylan Bradshaw in Dublin, also believes. Her salon has a retail manager responsible for stock control and, most importantly, staff education. Charlotte explains: “We have a meeting every week where the retail manager goes through all the new products with staff and shows how to use them in salon. Stylists can get stuck in a rut if they have their favourite products – they’re creatures of habit,” she reveals. “That’s why education is so important. Hairdressers are creative people and often they don’t like selling, but if you educate your team that retail is part of a take-home package and that they’re not just selling for the sake of selling, they’ll naturally be more confident in what they’re doing and that will shine through. Because if you are confident in a product your client will want that for themselves.”

What have been your highlights so far? I was the first to graduate from Brown Sugar as I’ve been with the company since the start. In 2009 I won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Next Generation Award and in 2012 I won the L’Oréal Men’s Image award. And I won best stylist at this year’s Image magazine Beauty Awards – it’s a public vote so it was great to walk away with it.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years? The obvious answer is to own my own salon but I don’t know if that’s for me. So instead I will hopefully have all three L’Oréal Colour Trophy titles under my belt and I’d also like to get into education, so maybe become a full-time trainer. I love session styling too, so maybe something to do with that side of the business.

What would be your dream hairdressing gig? It would be head hair stylist on a big movie from Hollywood’s golden age as I love old-school hair. I adore Meet Me in St. Louis and anything with Marilyn Monroe in. It was such a beautiful era for clothes and make-up and would allow me to be really creative in adapting vintage looks for a modern audience.

Creative Head Ireland

17/4/14 11:22:28

#CHedit

Life lessons Katherine Sweeney, PREEN, Dublin Fail to prepare and prepare to fail. Anyone who has worked with me knows this is my mantra! Success occurs when opportunity meets preparation. I have applied this to my career and it’s served me well.

Believe in yourself… If you don’t, no one else will. A true leader has the vision and conviction that a dream can be achieved. An important piece of advice I was given before opening PREEN was that if you believe something is right, then just go for it 100 per cent and don’t be deterred by the opinions of others. Trust your own instincts. If you do something with conviction, you do it with confidence.

Expect the unexpected… My first year in business has been my most challenging to date, both on a professional and a personal level. In business it’s always a good idea to have a Plan B in place. Life and business can throw you many curve balls, but it’s learning to overcome these challenges that makes you stronger.

Education, education, education. Knowledge is power. Education is the cornerstone of any successful salon and vital to future growth within the business. I am passionate about the future of my team. Having spent 14 years as head of education for Toni&Guy, I know the value of a continuous structured training programme.

Set goals, have a vision. Trying to achieve success without goal setting is like going on a road trip without a map. You’ve got to know where you’re headed to plan the best way of getting there. For me it’s important to set both short-term and long-term goals. Achieving short-term goals builds confidence and puts you on the right track towards longer-term goals, which make up the bigger picture. For me, visualising the salon achieving those goals and how that will make me feel, spurs me on and gives me the determination to keep striving for them. A happy team equals happy clients. My team is my best asset. If your employees are happy they will do a great job. If they do a great job customers will be happy and so business will be good. This is a core value of PREEN and one that has been passed on to me by my family business background. Pick the right people and reward hard work and talent.

Have PEP in your step! Positivity. Enthusiasm. Persistence. These three values will take you a long way! Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 10:24:06

Shop The latest products, colours and services

Fight the flat The Semi di Lino Volume range from Alfaparf Milano gives roots a boost thanks to its lightweight texture and innovative formula. It acts on the roots to add density, body and shine. It also smells amazing, not that we’re easily swayed by scent alone…

RRP from E12.50 Call 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

Brass oh no!

Pretty impressive

Pureology’s new Strength Cure system has been designed to treat micro-scarred hair (tiny tears caused by colour damage) by strengthening it from the inside out – 97 per cent of testers reported improved strength after only one treatment.

RRp from E21

Blondes rejoice! Banish the brass with TIGI Bed Head Dumb Blonde Purple Toning Shampoo and Toning Protection Spray. And don’t forget a regular tender treat – TIGI Bed Head Colour Goddess Miracle Treatment Mask is ideal.

RRP from E16.95 Call 01890 812 022 bedhead.com

Call 01800 535 616 pureology.com

Don’t fade away Nourish hues and protect against colour fade with ColourCare Shampoo and Conditioner from Affinage, packed with shea butter, argan oil and panthenol.

Two become one

The co-washing craze (replacing shampoo with conditioner) doesn’t seem to be showing any signs of slowing down – now Revlon is getting in on the act with its UniqOne Conditioning Shampoo. Formulated to cleanse while it conditions, it maximises softness, shine and time!

RRP E14

Call 01 886 9300 uniq-one.com

RRP E11.90 each Call 053 9123681 affinage.com 14

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Creative Head Ireland

17/4/14 11:24:20

creativeheadmag.com/shop Surf’s up

All hail

Hurrah! Philip Kingsley’s preshampoo treatment Elasticizer is now available in Ireland. Famed for its moisturising and restorative abilities, fans say they see a difference in the condition of their hair after just one application.

As holiday season approaches, many of your clients will be coveting that dishevelled beach look – without leaving home of course. KEVIN.MURPHY HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY will not only give them the look they’re after, it’s super easy to use. Just wash, spray and go.

RRP E35.95

Call 061 212 028 philipkingsley.co.uk

E24 Call 021 421 7482 nationalbeauty.ie

Club Tropicana

How gorgeous is the new ghd Birds of Paradise collection? Inspired by the Tom Ford, Matthew Williamson and Alberta Ferretti S/S14 catwalks, the collection features the ghd V Gold Classic styler in two vibrant selections: sunset and lagoon.

RRP from E149

Call +44 (0)1924 423400 ghdhair.com

Rainbow Brite

From pastels to pops of primary shades, temporary hair colour is still huge. Now London Fashion Week favourite label.m has got in on the act with the new Colour Spray range, available in blue, pink, red and purple shades, individually or as a set of four.

RRP E12.50 each

Call +44 (0)1753 612090 labelm.com

Black velvet

Seven stars

With seven line-ups to choose from – think volume and toning via repairing – the innovative range of sulphate and paraben-free shampoos and conditioners from Fudge delivers great hair with a pinch of anarchic cool.

RRP from E14.95

Call +44 (0)20 7845 6333 fudge.com Creative Head Ireland

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Legend has it that the Pharaohs used black cumin to heal skin – now you can try its legendary soothing power in Sève Protectrice, the new oil-in-cream thermoprotector blow-dry styler from Mythic Oil.

RRP E22.99

Call 1800 534 616 lorealprofessionnel.ie

A favourite returns

System Professional has brought back Liquid Hair, an intensive treatment product and in-salon service with a Molecular Hair Restructurer formula that rebuilds damaged hair for smoother, stronger, healthylooking locks.

RRP E51

Call 01 416 0900 wellaprofessionals.ie

17/4/14 11:24:44

Inside story Perceptions Terenure, Dublin The business is already eight years old, but this is a new home for Eddie Doyle’s Perceptions salon. Located on the main street in Terenure, the salon has come a long way from its first premises – a tiny back room behind a bike shop that didn’t even have windows! Focused on providing a five-star service, a simple monochromatic palette dominates the interior, but ornate touches and draped curtains between each styling station ensure the space is anything but clinical and cold. Stylish without trying too hard, Perceptions is a lesson in understated elegance and we have a feeling Eddie and his team have found their home.

Hot buys The Kiela Wellness Sister Deluxe backwash unit proves that minimalist doesn’t have to mean a compromise on comfort. From E1,250 Call 045 856 490 Xpertpro.ie

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Super styling

▼

In the family

For a touch of ’60s retro cool, add the Salon Ambience Orbital styling mirror to your salon space. E599.40 Call ESS on 061 212 028 Salonambience.com

Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:25:09

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09/04/2014 16:02

#CHedit

Head to head

One hot topic; two hairdressing professionals debate the issue

Are competitions the best way to judge talent?

yes

Katrin a Kelly , K2 Ha ir, Dub I do t lin hink co lo

t of pe mpet o readin ple would d itions ar e g this isagre rig e with the best wa compe y me an titions ht now; but d are p to judge tale . Cont then t most h robab nt. I b ests p hey’re airdre ly sha elieve u proba sh ssers w who d king t a bly th ho com your bound on’t. I h e e i r p ’l heads e a l tell y ople w pete in ries as is will ou wh h ing to a c o o s d m t ylist a on’t en pe y put th well a nd I th ter emselv – talent com titions hav s com ink th e an e es in a es out petitio at keep g d ge on ll shap there, n judg etting the on es. An and to es, will better hairdr e y hair be jud learn and b essers dresse s g s e o e d m t . t b D r e u but no y r w i c . d e h T ho v I , h e p have t e reas ryone ush th t in ou on I alen else as eir ow ri if you n crea don’t p ndustry! No t before com know this? tivity body k I ush yo p still co and new m etitions? M am one of t urself mpeti hose n a e n y o g beca until I talent be in k body e ed you use yo starte lse wi araok d com u ll do it e– are an peting d push should nev for yo , and u e ing yo . Even r give urself up on now I to be c ’m showi ng peo reativ e. ple ho w

Elaine Sulliva n, Avia I’ve s ry Lan een a e, Dubl ll ty mund in p ane – es of an h

large, d geni airdre loy ssing us on styles the sh day-ou al clientele – from ow flo that d t. It is or doe eliver an art trying sn’t ne the genius s cons in itse to find to the cess i s lf to co tently their t not m good h arily equat nnect rue re ore cr e to a w a e fl i i r th 10 i ati ec recrea ndivid dressing da te som vity to deliv tion. Dare I y-in, u a s e e ls a r on th thing of suc y it, bu e r cess? t I beli very day, all No, I d ehearsed. S at than it d e perfor v e it tak oes to o, do I on’t. H m well es do b aving in exa it fair said th elieve troph a timed up equal if ms or for ex -s a i e tyle or t w , s t r d h a o efine ‘s we lov re a tr en the verts a to ue me e a wi ucces nner a nd glory hu y get nervo asure s ’. own s Some us, so nd a lo nters. tyle an people that a People ser; I do you pu don’t lone o under love d t your ur own voic nly m s t r a a n m d e, we r a scisso a k succe t h es a e n d appea rs or y ealise ssful y suspe l. But ou that it nse, ou will as we ’s wha be in t r tail comb find o t you d i his in ur o dustry nto your ha nd tha every time . t will d ictate how

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:26:02

#CHedit Weekly makeo ver on the Today show on RTE

Prepping for a shoot At the Image Beauty Awards, where we were nominated for best stylist and won best Twitter pic

In the frame

Pamela Morrissey from Sobe Brown in Cork snaps away

Ba ck sta ge at Tod ay

SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadirl

Backst age with creative directo r KT Lawlor

Working with the Bu mble and bu mble creative tea m

On the salon floor

To-do list the hottest happenings this month and next…

19 May

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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Tending to the tresses of TV3 Xposé presenter Lisa Cannon

Selfie time!

COCKTAIL HOUR

NEW TRICKS

Former star of The Salon, Terry Longden, comes to ESS in Limerick for the Matrix Colour Cocktailing and Design course. The one-day event has been designed to show you how to break the rules and come up with new formulas and techniques. Call 061 212 028

Experience a morning of new cutting techniques with award-winning stylist John Geaney in his Cutting Seminar at Hennessy Hair and Beauty in Cork. Suitable for all stylists. Call 021 434 3436

09 June

17 June

COMMUNITY CARE Give back with the mynewhair charity team and the Trevor Sorbie Team at the L’Oréal Academy in Dublin. This one-day course covers aftercare for women suffering from hair loss after medical treatment. Call 01 604 5914

16/4/14 10:41:19

Christel Lundqvist

Show some

love

Clients addicted to colour will adore tigi Bed Head’s new colour care products – perfect for locks in need of TLC

•TIGI 2

Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:30:21

Your clients’ relationship with colour has always been of the love/hate variety – they love the colour, but hate fade and damage. Now clients can renew that love with TIGI Bed Head. The brand’s colour care ranges already led the way when it came to innovation in the wash and care sector and its three new products are designed to strengthen and protect coloured hair even more, providing vital nourishment and moisture. The days of damage are over – TIGI Bed Head can provide colour perfection.

Restoring potion Clients can refresh and restore colour fade with Dumb Blonde Purple Toning Shampoo – its subtle violet pigment brightens the dullest blondes, removing yellow tones and enhancing cool tones. This technologically advanced product contains Polyquatenium 10, which is designed to strengthen the hair, and Amodimethicone, which adds shine to brittle, dull blondes. Christel Lundqvist, global technical director for TIGI, explains: “The new shampoo helps maintain the neutral or cool tone clients were given – and it smells amazing!”

Protect and serve Guarantee blonde protection and perfection with TIGI Bed Head Dumb Blonde Toning Protection Spray. This really does do everything, from transforming excessively bleached blondes and providing the best defence against heat to preventing breakages and split ends, and strengthening protein bonds inside the hair. TIGI’s Christel Lundqvist says: “I love this spray! TIGI Bed Head has addressed so many of the challenges associated with treated blonde hair, like weak internal bonds and increased tangling.”

Miracle maker Colour Goddess Miracle Treatment Mask is a luxurious must-have for all colour addicts. Containing Pro-Vitamin B and enriched with shea butter and sweet almond oil, the mask nourishes and moisturises hair, eliminating dryness, revitalising drab, coloured hair and smoothing the cuticle to make hair incredibly glossy. TIGI’s Christel Lundqvist adds: “Coloured hair can be dry and lacking lustre, which is why this rich, buttery Colour Goddess Miracle Treatment Mask nourishes and increases shine to make colour look more vibrant.”

Care for your clients colour today with TIGI Bed Head Dumb Blonde and Colour Goddess. For more details, call 01890 812 022 or visit bedhead.com

Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 10:30:41

Purple reigns! Introducing vibrant, vivid, violets. A series of intense shades developed by the TIGI Creative Team to provide bold, impactful colour.

Invent it. Own it.

Ideal for classic or creative uses, these flexible shades will extend your colour palette and allow you to create enviable, expressive, statement looks.

Not a TIGI copyrightÂŠolour stockist yet? Please contact us on: UK: 0844 844 0944 Ireland: 01890 812 022 For more creative inspiration and information visit:

Christel Lundqvist TIGI Global Technical Director

www.tigicopyrightcolour.com TIGIPROFESSIONAL TIGICREATIVES

Scene Front row from left: Richard Windle, Katie Mulville and Hans Nilsson

THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!

Back to

the future Today, TeCHnology means almost anything is available at the touch of a button – and this was at the heart of the Sebastian Professional International Artist event, hosted by the Wella Academy in Dublin. Taking inspiration from the concept of being able to transform on demand, the Digitality collection showcased how advanced products can instantly transform hair. Famed for his avant-garde editorial work and his salon work in Sweden, Sebastian International Artist Hans Nilsson was on stage to showcase Drynamics. Assisted by Sebastian Urban Core Team Artist Richard Windle and Cult Team Member Katie Mulville on stage, Hans used Sebastian Drynamic to create various looks, including intricate braiding and a futuristic take on the classic victory roll. ‘Tweeting Goddess’ Samantha Kelly also gave the audience a deep insight into the digital world, the power of social media and having a strong digital presence. The audience left with the tools needed to not only transform clients’ hair but to embrace the future.

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 11:53:12

Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 11:53:38

Time to

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D’Olier Street Wellington Quay

Salon of the Year: Wellington Quay Assistant Team of the Year: Wellington Quay Creative Salon: Liffey Street Retail Advice Salon: Liffey Street Quality Culture Service Award: Times Building Gold Star Award: Charlestown Premier Salon Award: Lucan

Charlestown

The winners

Wellington Quay

More than 150 members from the House of Colour salon group turned up dressed to impress at its Salon of the Year awards at the Radisson Blu Golden Lane in Dublin. Devised by directors David Campbell and Susan Byrne, awards on the night included the Individual Salon Stylist award, the Assistant award and Salon of the Year, which went to Wellington Quay for the first time. The Creative Team 2014 and Dream Team 2014 (a scholarship awarded to the top four trainees in the group) were also announced, and guests were also treated to a three-course dinner, inspirational videos, and a reveal of the group’s S/S14 collection. Speaking at the celebration, House of Colour co-owner, Susan Byrne, said: “This event recognises the stylists, assistants and coordinators who produce every day in their job throughout the year. It’s a culmination of 12 months’ hard work and a celebration of the effort and enthusiasm our team puts into everything that we do.”

Liffey Street

shine

Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 14:47:27

Kelly Keating

David Attride

Culture

Shakira Clohessy

Kim Delahunty

Jennifer ‘Penny’ Garry

Sarah Grehan

club

With his three salons – Brown Sugar South William Street, Brown Sugar Blackrock and newest addition Sugar Cubed on Clarendon Street – owner Mark O’Keeffe has cultivated a group now known as Sugar Culture. A big part of this is promoting, supporting and mentoring those coming up through the ranks. So each year, the group recognises the amazing achievements of its trainees with an awards event. And everyone is attendance is blown away by the emerging talent, this year being no exception. Each trainee had to work on two models each and was required to provide catwalk-led moodboards to support their work, before the winners were announced.

Shannon Mulligan

The winners

Creative Head Ireland

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Team Players: Kim Delahunty Shakira Clohessy The Eugene O’Reilly Trainee of the Year Award 2014: Shakira Clohessy Advanced category: 1st – Jennifer ‘Penny’ Garry 2nd – Sarah Grehan Intermediate category: 1st – David Attride 2nd – Kelly Keating Beginner category: 1st – Shakira Clohessy 2nd – Shannon Mulligan

16/4/14 14:47:46

for a day

Philip Kinsgley

King

He’s been called the ‘hair doctor’ and the ‘hair guru’ in the past, and with more than 55 years’ experience as a leading trichologist, it’s no wonder that Philip Kingsley has built a loyal legion of fans along the way. His recent visit to Dublin’s Westbury Hotel to launch his hair care range exclusively with Essential Salon Supplies in Ireland proved that his Irish fan base is just as strong! Taking to the stage for an intimate Q&A session, the celebrity favourite spoke about how he got his start, how he became interested in scalp health and how his cult product Elasticizer came about – to tame the tresses of Audrey Hepburn 40 years ago this year! The audience then got a chance to ask Philip questions about hair loss and how the range could work for them.

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Creative Head Ireland

17/4/14 12:31:06

Access all areas

Translating the latest runway looks for your clients can be a challenge – but not if you have KEVIN.MURPHY products in your arsenal Kevin Murphy is a man in demand – constantly being interviewed, working on shoots for the likes of Vogue, InStyle and Elle or operating behind-the-scenes as hair director at Melbourne Fashion Week. But when he’s not doing all that, the international session stylist behind the KEVIN.MURPHY hair care range can be found researching ingredients for his products, making podcasts for his website, and travelling the world to share his passion and art with other stylists.

we asked Kevin for his top tips on perfecting catwalk-inspired looks in the salon and how products Can make a world of difference.

using; they seemed so much lighter on the hair. So I began experimenting and created some lightweight styling products that ensured the hairstyle would survive.

Should more stylists be aware of catwalk trends and hair in the glossies? Fashion shows can be really outrageous and often they’re about fantasy and drama. They aren’t meant to be taken literally, and the hairstyles created for them cannot always be translated into commercial wearable looks for salon clients. So, if hairdressers want to give their clients the latest and the greatest look they should definitely be following and getting their inspirations from fashion magazines.

What inspired you to develop your own range? I was never that happy with the products that were available to me! As a session stylist, I would be showered with so many products from the manufacturers and I’d get really excited about the promise of what the product would do. But they were always so heavy and when you’re working and reworking hair, the products made it greasy and difficult to work with. I found I got better results by using some of the skin care products make-up artists were

What are your top three KM products? HAIR.RESORT.SPRAY, a texture spray, perfect for creating that beach hair look; ANTI.GRAVITY, a weightless volumiser and moisturiser that reinforces shine; and SESSION.SPRAY, a stronghold finishing spray. But, I’ve been working on my 2015 campaign shoot in Adelaide, Australia, and the product that never left my side was BODY.BUILDER, a volumising mousse.

For details on becoming a KEVIN.MURPHY stockist, call National Beauty Distribution in Cork on 021 4217482 or email info@nationalbeauty.ie Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 14:49:21

THE BIG IDEA

Percy and Reed East

Light bulb moment What’s the difference between an average colour application and an amazing one? You might think it’s technique or how cutting-edge a product is, but the simple answer is light – or lack of it. So, with that in mind, salon owners Paul Percival and Adam Reed devised a dedicated colour station at their award-winning boutique London salon, Percy and Reed East, which allows clients and colourists to discover not only what tone looks best, but to demonstrate how different colours will look in a variety of lights. Using a halo lighting effect, an iPad and warm and cool colour boards, clients are able to discover how their preferred colour will look outside the salon and in different environments and climates, prior to application. Speaking about what first motivated them to change colour consultations, Adam Reed says: “We occasionally received feedback from our clients that their colour changes its appearance in different lights. A great example is to compare a New York blonde to a Los Angeles blonde. The cooler shades from New York may look washed out in the bright California sunshine, while a Californian blonde can look yellow and brassy when in the Big Apple.” A bespoke service and an end to brassy blondes forever: we have a feeling this could catch on...

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 11:56:11

Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 11:56:29

Creativeheadmag.com Looks

Hair

News

R u n way

Blogs

Events

Sh o p

Competitions

Celebrate it L’Oréal Colour Trophy, TrendVision, Color Zoom… discover the finalists and winners as competition season hots up!

TWEET IT!

DKNY A/W14

Follow @creativeheadirl to hear the latest news and gossip

STYLE IT!

Radiant Hair & Beauty

Be inspired by the looks from the biggest runway shows from fashion capitals around the globe

LOVE IT! Inspirational photographic collections, including this one from Radiant Hair & Beauty

Creative HEAD magazine

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Follow it The KMS California Editorial Collective shares its year of education and inspiration

@creativeheadirl

16/4/14 10:39:27

A new direction

The latest Schwarzkopf professional Essential Looks collection Style-Tec is your salon’s passport to the biggest trend stories for S/S14 Every hairdresser needs to be on top of the key fashion stories every season, and more importantly they need to be able to interpret them in the salon. With this in mind, the Schwarzkopf Professional creative team has distilled some of this season’s biggest stories into a capsule collection of three distinct looks. And because true creativity can only be achieved through technical excellence, three tailor-made commercial adaptations have been devised with accessibility and salon success in mind. So, not only will you find all the inspiration you need, you’ll also find the techniques necessary to bring the best cuts, colours and styles to life. Creative Head Ireland

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White hot 34

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:51:19

Short

medium

Long In salon Chic and seductive, this trend is a sophisticated slow burner thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about the detail. Red tonal combinations add instant interest in the hair, while internal shapes of the cut direction are offset with asymmetrical shapes. Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 10:51:57

Candy Dandy 36

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 10:52:34

Short

medium

Long In salon Ditch the sugary sweet pastels for a palette of smoky greys, apricots and pale blondes this season. Cuts have a sculpted silhouette, so place an emphasis firmly on rounded fringes and square outlines in styles of every length. Creative Head Ireland

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International creative director: Simon Ellis. Essential Looks creative director: Steve Hogan. Essential Looks commercial director: Nina Schafer. Fashion stylist: Jelena Schneider. Make-up: Alexandra Byrne. Photography: Sabine Liewald.

MetallXX

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 14:50:37

Short

Long

medium

In salon Metallic touches on the catwalk have given us a new way to wear florals and delicate patterns, and this trend fuses short internal layers in longer outlines and soft fringes with cool metallic shades for a fresh new take on modern glamour. For more information, call 0044 1296 314 000 or visit Schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

Creative Head Ireland

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16/4/14 10:54:40

Image courtesy of TIGI

S e ss i o n work

Life through a lens Working backstage at fashion shows and behind the scenes at editorial shoots might sound glamorous, but it takes a lot of hard graft and determination to make it in session styling. For many, a steady stream of regular and loyal clients is the mark of true success, while For others it’s trophies and accolades, or owning their own salon. But for some, the world of session styling is the best and most rewarding way to express their creativity. From London to Paris to New York, session styling is a niche industry – and the scene in Ireland is no different. It’s hard to break into and the prospect of leaving the security of the salon can be too daunting to even contemplate for many stylists. So, what if we told you that it was possible to have a successful session and salon career by combining the two? Bet that’s got your attention! we talk to some of Ireland’s most successful session stylists who seamlessly blend the worlds of session and salon work about what it takes to get the top.

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Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 14:51:13

Paul Davey (right)

Paul Davey, co-owner at Davey Davey, Dublin has worked backstage at London Fashion Week, the Cannes Film Festival and the IFTAs, and on shoots for commercial brands and with countless celebrities. Here, he explains what you need to make it. “I started off assisting on fashion shows at London Fashion Week with Toni&Guy. You really have to throw yourself in at the deepend. You have to have the up-styling skills and be able to braid from the start, because when you go on set or backstage and you’re shown an image or moodboard, you have to be able to translate that for the client and also take the clothes, model and overall look into consideration. It comes with experience, but

Zara Cox is creative director at Aviary Lane in Dublin. She’s worked as an international art director with Toni&Guy and her work has appeared in countless glossies. She also co-founded Dais, a notfor-profit platform to support emerging talent in the Irish fashion industry. Zara reveals some ways to get a foothold... “Start working with people in the same position as you. Find younger teams and build up a relationship with other creative people who are trying to make it. I would suggest going to modelling agencies and finding girls who you love and who are also starting out. It’s about building up a team of people who share your vision. But most importantly, if you want to be a successful session stylist you have to know about

fashion. We have so much information at our fingertips so go online, do your homework and know your designers. “When you’re on set you need to be able to reference trends and know what’s happening on a global scale. That’s why I think art teams are a great way to break into the industry. If you put yourself forward for them, the people who mentor you will train your eye and teach you how to actually make it happen. But you’ve got to start small. Salons are a business and they have to rely on their staff so there has to be respect for that. “You can’t just not come into work because you’re asked to do a shoot at the last minute. But if you can combine the two elements it’s beneficial for all involved.”

David Cashman started his career at the age of 11 working in his dad’s salon in Tullamore. As well as having a chair in Reds in Dublin, his work regularly appears in Irish Tatler and Image and he has worked backstage at London Fashion Week. He explains here how he struck out on his own. “I’ve always loved session work and started off assisting Michael Leong on shoots. He is such a great teacher and was so good to me in the beginning. But it’s not about trying to follow someone else’s career path. Lots of people have a pre-conceived idea of what being a session stylist means and they’re usually wrong! There’s a lot of free work out

Creative Head Ireland

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I would suggest anyone who is interested should start by dissecting catwalk looks bitby-bit and figuring out how to interpret them. We run session styling courses in the salon to help stylists create and explore their own style. You have to be aware that session work is totally different – probably because of the amount of product you use – and when you’re on set, the hair team starts doing things you would never do on clients. “To be creative you have to engage with creative people – photographers, make-up artists – and do test shoots after hours and at the weekends for no money. That’s how you build up a reputation – it proves you have a level of commitment and dedication.”

there, which can test your love for it, but test shoots are the best way to start off. I went travelling after my training and when I came back to Dublin it was a little bit scary to try and make a career out of session styling – there wasn’t a job on five days a week. “Thankfully, I’m signed to a creative agency that looks after all of my bookings now, which makes it so much easier for me to just concentrate on the hair. A lot of my clients in the salon come to me off the back of shoots. They see your name in a magazine and want to be part of it so it’s all good publicity. It also keeps you in-tune with the latest trends and that’s great for your clients.”

16/4/14 14:51:31

kit bag

Your kit. Sorted!

Want to know what the perfect kit bag looks like? Clean, organised, well stocked. Now cast your eye over your own. It’s looking a bit sad, isn’t it? Your kit bag deserves a little more love, and the latest tools of the trade to keep you on top of your game. Let us help you assemble the kit bag from heaven…

Versatile and durable, the label.m Styling Iron Titanium Pro-50 was spotted at many a London Fashion Week show.

Get snap-happy with The Touch from Cloud Nine, the first smart straightening iron.

€70

RRP €88.25

+44 (0)1943 811310

+44 (0)1753 612090

cloudninehair.com

labelm.com

Electricals

An electrical tool should feel like an extension of a stylist’s own arm, so the priority is comfort. But style is also important and the tools you use on the salon floor should look cool and beautiful. Here are a few favourites…

Lighter, greener, quieter, the ghd aura styles as it dries. Meet your new BFF! Titanium gives incredible finishes – check out the 38mm curling tong and waving wand from the BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression range.

POA

+44 (0)1924 423400 ghdhair.co.uk

Tongs: €47.99; Wand: €57.99 061 212 028

essentialsalon.ie

Created by a hairdresser, for hairdressers, the Dylan Bradshaw Signature Collection Elchim Hair Straightener is lightweight and east to use and has been designed with healthy hair in mind.

RRP €135

Call 01 671 9353 dylanbradshaw.com

The Neuro Dry from Paul Mitchell warns you when the filter needs cleaning – genius!

POA

+44 (0)845 659 0011 paul-mitchell.co.uk 42

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The ego professional TWIST tourmaline and HW2 infused styling tool guides hair into obedient and perfect waves.

RRP €89.95

Create wonderful waves or vintage curls in a flash with the Glamoriser Variable Depth Waver from Diva Professional.

€44.99 1890 253 402 salon-services.com

Call 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie Creative Head Ireland

17/4/14 11:25:51

#KitBag

Combs and brushes

All prices featured are salon prices, before VAT, unless otherwise stated

For your kitbag to be your best friend, you need to ensure a good balance of brushes that deliver different finishes, so a working group of about half a dozen working brushes is not unrealistic. Have a look at this line-up… Natural bristles really grip hair for glossy, smooth locks, so try the Natural Bristle Radial Brush range from ghd, available in four sizes.

All TLC brushes are antistatic and are infused with ions to eliminate static and frizz, leaving hair shiny and healthy.

RRP €3.95

RRP from €21

+44 (0)1924 423400

We love a good paddle brush – the Professional Paddle Brush from Cloud Nine is kinder to the hair, hairdryer resistant and ideal for taming longer lengths.

Call 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

ghdhair.co.uk

€26 +44 (0)1943 811310 cloudninehair.com

Keep your combs all together with the Comb Kit from ghd. The tail comb is an essential!

Impress everyone with the Gold Rush brush by Tangle Teezer.

Tough tangles and heavy thickets be tamed! The power of The Wet Brush makes this an essential.

POA

+44 (0)1924 423400

RRP €15

ghdhair.co.uk

061 212 028

€6.99

tangleteezer.com

1890 253 402 salon-services.com

Essentials

Perhaps the most vital – and usually the most expensive – is scissors. But how do you choose? It’s good to test, so ask dealers if you can trial a pair for a week to see what you think. It’s a personal choice…

Cool Blades promises a ‘butter-smooth action’ with the Kobe Apollo, featuring fully convex, hollow ground blades. We’re sold!

€99.90 +44 (0)1253 893091 coolblades.co.uk

Creative Head Ireland

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Gloves are always handy – try Color Trak reusable black latex gloves.

€1.19

Easydry’s eco-friendly disposable towels are light and compact so you won’t need to lug around bulky towels!

€433 for a box of 5,200 042 938 1963

easydry.com

1890 253 402 salon-services.com

Made in Japan, Kasho scissors contain two kinds of stainless steel for added sharpness and precision.

€90 Call 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

Glamtech’s Black Diamond is a stylish full convex razor edge 5.5" scissor with a removable rest.

€35.99 1890 253 402 salon-services.com

16/4/14 14:52:55

Need you tonight Taking inspiration from the extravagance of the â&#x20AC;&#x2122;80s and designers like Thierry Mugler, Azzedine Alaia and Claude Montana, JOICOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new trend collection In-Excess is a celebration of more-is-more

Photography by Hama Sanders

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Hair Damien Carney, JOICO international artistic director. colour Sue Pemberton, JOICO international colour director. Creative direction Joseph Suarez. Wardrobe Nikko Kefalas. Make-up Sammy Mourabit.

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The

FA U LT

I N OUR S TA R S M ost Wanted Creative T al e nt Errol Douglas M B E p la y s wit h colour an d li g h t in this d ar k fantasy

Photography by Charlie Kaufman

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See more from this shoot at

creativeheadmag.com

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Hair Errol Douglas MBE, assisted by Ashleigh Hodges, Natalia Maxwell and Natasha Joy Hayford. Styling Angharad Merry. Make-up Lauren Mathis.

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The shape of things Refusing to conform to commercial shapes, this challenging collection from Allilon unashamedly focuses attention on the execution of technique Photography by Trevor Leighton

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Hair Allilon Art Team. Make-up Cheryl Phelps Gardiner.

To see more incredible shoots, visit creativeheadmag.com

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16/4/14 11:03:51

I’m with the brand Want to ensure long-term business success? Turn your clients into brand ambassadors with loyalty schemes, says Ronan PercEval One of the biggest traps we see salons fall into is discounting. Of course, in certain circumstances there is a place for it – basically if your diary is completely empty – but generally, discounting has long-term negative effects on your business. It devalues your brand and diminishes your margins. Salon owners often feel powerless to what they can do to get people through the door when things are quiet. Hundreds of hair salons have what I call a ‘traditional loyalty scheme’ – book nine wash and blow-drys and get the 10th one free. This is a false economy as you are discounting something clients are already willing to buy at full-price; so you’re lowering average spend. And although studies in the US show that about 40 per cent of consumers are influenced by loyalty schemes, there is another way: reward schemes. Assign one point to every euro spent in your salon, so if a client spends E40 on a wash and blow-dry they get 40 points, and when they reach a certain number of points 58

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they are rewarded, but with something they’ve never had before such as a new hair treatment or a product. Our research shows that 28 per cent will buy this again at full price within six months of receiving the treat. Your clients now feel rewarded, you are increasing average spend and increasing the chances of a rebooking on the day, which helps to fill the gaps in your appointment book. We also recommend you reward clients with additional points for referrals. This turns happy clients into brand ambassadors and gets a steady and ongoing stream of new clients through your door. Because 40 per cent of consumers are influenced positively by loyalty programmes, they will be incentivised to come in to the salon. Promotions show the positive aspects of your salon. Discounts, on the other hand, immediately scream “we’re empty” and can only have a negative long-term impact on your business. Ronan Perceval is founder and chief executive of Phorest Salon Software

Creative Head Ireland

16/4/14 15:02:27

PK4 HAIR

SOYA PROTEIN CAPSULES PK4Hair is a soy derived nutritional supplement with an amino acid profile similar to that of animal gelatine but with an increased content of specific amino acids beneficial to hair. Together with a healthy diet, these capsules provide the essential amino acids necessary for optimum hair growth. The protein nutrients are absorbed during the growth cycle in the hair follicle, and improvement in hair quality will be apparent in the new hair growth.

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07/04/2014 15:31:37