Creative HEAD Ireland September/October 2015 by Alfol Publishing

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SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015

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Editor’s letter

hello...

AS AUTUMN looms and the working year is about to enter its final quarter, maybe it’s time to stop and reflect on how to boost business for 2016. Have you thought about developing the male side of your hair salon? If not, then check out some opinions from the professionals on page 30. Another possible revenue stream is to introduce ‘free from’ products in your salon (page 38) to add value and possibly attract a new clientele. This issue’s packed with inspiring fashion for the season (page 40), and Life Lessons (page 19) will give you food for thought on how to optimise your business. By the way, I’m the new editor of Creative HEAD Ireland and delighted to be getting to know an industry which is vibrant, robust and constantly reinventing itself. If you have something to say, don’t hesitate to contact me and I will do my utmost to ensure your ideas are reflected in your industry magazine.

Annette O’Meara Editor

annette@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 08

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@creativeheadirl

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21/08/2015 10:35

LINE E ARE HAT AR C HAIR S T NLY ODUCT O E R TH ING P ER OFF in us c io o r ig p r et io n na

ig des

Feed your hair with Italian taste

NO SULFATES, PARABENS, PARAFFIN, MINERAL OILS, SYNTHETIC DYES OR ALLERGENS* * Allergens derived from plant extracts or fragrances.

THE NUMBER ONE CHOICE FOR SALON OWNERS IN IRELAND. CH precious nature FP.indd 1

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September/October

WHAT’S INSIDE 30

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IRELAND

MALE GROOMING SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2015

It’s one of the biggest growth areas in Irish hairdressing – ﬁnd out how you can get more men into your salon

CUTTING EDGE THE FUTURE STARTS HERE

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ON THE COVER Hair Alan Keville Artistic Team, Dublin and Wexford Make-up Ailbhe Lynch Styling Amy Leonard Photography John Rawson

LAST WORD Salon owner John Geaney on how to sensitively discuss thinning hair with clients

FASHION

Alan Keville opts for daring, futuristic silhouettes

EDITOR ANNETTE O’MEARA

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD Ireland JOANNA ANDERSEN

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ANNA SAMSON

EDITOR IN CHIEF AMANDA NOTTAGE

ART GRAEME WHITE

ADVERTISING LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER

PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK

creativeheadmag.com 10

Creative HEAD Magazine

6-9 Trinity Street Dublin 2 01 617 7947 annette@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

@creativeheadirl

@creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

DISCOVER MORE AT milkshakehaircare.ie

With certified organic and natural ingredients, milk_shake® is the product line that is loved worldwide. But don’t take our word for it, just ask the awards judges.

Find us on FACEBOOK Milk Shake Hair UK Follow us on TWITTER milkshakehairUK info 087 2524951

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A Career with Style Ireland’s Premier Hairdressing Academy!

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THE ART OF COLOURING EXPOSÉ with Max Eli, International Director of Colour Education at J Beverly Hills

J Beverly Hills offers a complete range of products for professional salons and its clients that are paraben and sulphate free, which include cleansing, caring, styling & finishing products, a special line for men and a revolutionary Colour Line featuring 88 intermixable shades. All products contain high quality ingredients infused with argan oil, black pearl powder, acai berry and aloe vera. Our Colour Line products provide an unmatched level of colour intensity, vibrancy and hair conditioning. This single line concept features demi, semi, and permanent colour options, therefore allowing translucent, opaque or matte all from one tube, with the world’s lowest ammonia level of less than 1%. This 5 step formulation guarantees predictable results with up to 100% grey coverage. Join us to learn more about this exciting Colour Line.

MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER 2015

MACDONALD WINDSOR HOTEL

RECEPTION: 10am START: 10.30am ENDS: 4.30pm

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INCLUDING:

Drinks/snacks 3 course buffet lunch PLUS: FBI London goody bag!

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UK sole distributor for exclusive brands visit www.fbilondon.co.uk

Serving & protecting the professional UK salon industry with innovative brands.

The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

SALES OF HIGH-END women’s haircare products in the UK increased by six per cent last year to £403m, from £380m the year before. Mintel’s research revealed that female consumers are more likely than ever before to ‘trade up’, with the proportion of all product launches at a prestige price point increasing to 29 per cent in 2014 from 18 per cent in 2013. This is a trend from which brands in Ireland may also be reaping the benefits, as David Donnellan, managing director of Xpert Professional Haircare, confirms: “Joico, the luxury salon professional range from Shiseido, is enjoying a growth of more than 10 per cent on 2014; we notice more women are also buying premium products such as repair treatments and the new Joico Hair Shake styling product, both items retailing in excess of €25.” Duncan Kenna, owner of Occasions Hairdressing Group in Co. Kildare, confirms that his clients are moving more towards luxury brands. He said: “We are a multi-brand retail stockist with different price levels, as all our salons are in major shopping centres. However, we can see a growing trend towards our more premium stocked lines such as Moroccanoil.” The Mintel research also revealed that when it comes to purchasing premium products, four in 10 users of hair treatments or masques were typically using a prestige product, while hairspray was most likely to be a budget buy.

NEWSFLASH

ghd hosts a Red Carpet Styling Session workshop on 27 September at Belissimo Hair Salon in Limerick city. For more details and to book, call +44 (0)1924 423400.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

HUGH CAMPBELL STYLIST TAKES TOP AVANT-GARDE HONOUR

Stephen O’Driscoll from the Hugh Campbell Hair Group in Limerick city has claimed the Avant Garde Irish Visionary title (winning model look pictured) at the Alternative Hair Visionary Award finals for Ireland at the Mansion House in Dublin. Both Sarah Mason from Renaissance Hairdressing in Galway city and Barry McDonagh from Altamoda Hair in Ennis, Co. Clare, went through as cut and colour winners to the international final of the Alternative Hair Visionary Awards, which will be held at the Royal Albert Hall in London in October. They will be joined by Florin Ghile from Dublin’s Zeba Hairdressing, who won the new Men’s Cut & Style award.

Image courtesy of Absolute Studios

SALES IN LUXURY HAIRCARE SEE RECORD GROWTH

Sligo salon launches young guns SALON 2 HAIRDRESSING in Sligo has launched a dedicated in-house team for young clients called BYoung at Salon 2. Aimed at everyone from toddlers to students, the BYoung style team has created a menu of braids, buns, balayage, babylights and blow-drys with prices that are kind to the pocket. The innovative venture is headed up by Cathy Wynne, Emer McKeown, Rachel Smith and Rebecca Mahon –

a team of talented stylists at this award-winning salon. Anthony Kilcoyne, owner and creative director of the salon, said: “I’m so proud of the BYoung team. They are really excelling in this new venture. We have been working closely with the team in designing this new concept for Salon 2 and we’re now ready to showcase their wonderful talent. This is a great opportunity for the team and for the people of Sligo.”

BUSINESS HOW-TO GUIDES

BECAUSE RUNNING A SALON IS COMPLICATED ENOUGH The no-nonsense guide to launching your business

The no-nonsense guide to PR & marketing

The no-nonsense guide to team building

The no-nonsense guide to customer experience

Start your own salon

Build a better team

Get noticed

The perfect client journey

Your name, your way – now take the first step

Educate and motivate your glamour squad

Make sure everyone’s talking about your business

Ensure your clients enjoy the whole ride, not just the destination

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The no-nonsense guide to rules and regulations

The no-nonsense guide to expansion and franchising

Red tape and headaches

Branching out

All the xtras

Minimise the stress of running a salon

For salon owners who want more

A salon isn’t just about hair

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The no nonsense uide to retail and merchandising

The no-nonsense guide to additional services

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Each 28-page guide is packed with “how-to” advice on retail, expansion, franchising and common business headaches. Buy individually, or grab the set!

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#CHedit MY months

AHEAD GHD BACKS CHARITY WITH EXCLUSIVE PRODUCTS THIS YEAR ghd is supporting the Irish Cancer Society by donating €10 from every limited edition vintage pink platinum styler and limited edition vintage pink air hairdryer available now while stocks last. This limited edition vintage pink platinum range has had a vintage makeover in an elegant and retro matte powder finish with metallic pale pink accents - a stylish new addition for your clients’ dressing table and they’ll also be supporting the Irish Cancer Society’s Action Breast Cancer programme. The limited edition vintage pink platinum styler retails at €215, while the classic hairdryer,

sells at €129 and both are styling must-haves for clients. The €10 from every vintage pink styler or hairdryer sold in Ireland is paid to the Irish Cancer Society and in addition, €2 from every vintage pink paddle brush (RRP €25) and €1 from every pair of vintage pink clips (RRP €3.50) also sold in Ireland will be donated. The Irish Cancer Society’s Action Breast Cancer programme is Ireland’s leading provider of breast cancer information and support. Each year it reaches more than 25,000 women who are concerned about breast cancer and breast health. In the past nine years, ghd has raised more than €500,000 for the Irish Cancer Society.

● More than 100 entries for the IHF Star team have already been judged this summer with finalists going forward for the next stage on 28 September where the final 15 will be selected. The IHF’s aim is to find the top four apprentices in the country, and key characteristics include personal drive, natural talent and a stage presence that oozes personality! The IHF Star Team will give talented young hairdressers in the industry the opportunity to develop their skills by offering them the highest standards possible in mentoring and coaching from experienced industry professionals. The grand final will be held on 15 November.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

CAROLEEN CREEVY

RITZYS HAIRDRESSING

We’re currently working on upgrading and re-inventing our website and we hope to go live in the coming weeks. Also, we’ve decided to focus on in-salon training for our staﬀ over the coming months and, in particular, our junior stylists. This is so that we have everybody ready for the busy Christmas period that’s fast approaching.

GREG CLARKE COLLAGE HAIR GROUP

IHF NEWS ● The Irish Hairdressing Federation (IHF)’s training hub takes place on Sunday, 18 October at Dublin’s City West Hotel, giving hairdressers an opportunity to meet with and listen to experts in the industry to inspire them. The training hub oﬀers valuefor-money training, and topics include employment legislation, social media, insurance and modern barbering. It costs €50 per person to attend.

What September and October have in store for...

DONEGAL SALON SCOOPS AWARD

PATRICK GILDEA HAIRDRESSING in Letterkenny, Co. Donegal, has won the Junior Chamber International (JCI) award for the second year running. The hairdressing team has claimed top spot in another award category after being crowned Overall Winner at the JCI Friendly Business Awards last July. Commenting on the success, salon owner Patrick (pictured above), said: “We are delighted to accept this award on behalf of the team; we are thrilled that our hard work has been recognised by the JCI and to receive the Overall Winner award is a great reflection on our team, who strive to deliver a wonderful hairdressing experience every day. We would like to thank the JCI and hope we can continue to exceed expectations every day.”

These next few months are crucial training periods as we prepare for our busiest quarter of the year. And we’re starting preparations by attending training sessions and a trade show in London. Our in-salon training will cover client consultation and the latest cutting and colour trends. All the team will attend the IHF training hub in October too.

SARAH NEWMAN

IKON HAIR DESIGN

Since our salon owner, Valerie Finnegan Cahill, is oﬀ to London for a few days, I’m in charge of the troops. I can’t wait to hook up with her when she’s back as we’re oﬀ to Naas to reunite with the rest of the nine salons from Ireland and the UK for the Salon Focus Programme. Then we’ll be planning the rest of the year.

THE BUSINESS EDIT STARTING OVER

MANAGING A CLIENT’S DISTRESS FROM HAIR LOSS IS AS IMPORTANT AS SOWING THE SEED OF HAIR RENEWAL WORDS CANNOT describe the anguish felt by clients when they begin to lose their hair because of cancer treatments or other health conditions. It’s a very difficult time and it’s important that stylists are sensitive to their clients’ needs and are able to provide solutions wherever possible. Remember the client/stylist relationship is a trusted one, so as the stylist you are in a unique position to help – and you can

RISING STAR

NAME CONOR DOYLE AGE 22 SALON PETER MARK DUNDRUM, DUBLIN

WHEN DID YOU REALISE THAT YOU WANTED TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? When I was little I used to have a collection of those creepy Troll dolls, not because I liked them but because I would spend hours messing with their hair. As I got older this experimentation progressed, leaving most of my friends and family with a string of terrible

do that by maintaining a client’s hair or assisting re-growth after treatment. Aideen Bennett from Pure Hair and Beauty in Enfield, Co. Meath, says: “We use hair loss treatments such as Nioxin for lots of different clients – from new mothers to older ladies with thinning hair and some who are recovering from cancer treatments. And sometimes we have clients with naturally wavy hair that’s very fine that just begins to thin and they need help. I have a client like this who’s been using in-salon treatments since last Christmas and she says ‘Every time you do my hair, it’s like a miracle’. “A lot of these anti hair-thinning products are prescriptive, so you have to ensure you’re using the right one for the particular hair type, they’re rarely a one product fits all. From a client’s perspective, it’s important to use it regularly and that you trust your stylist. Once a customer finds somebody to help prescribe something that’s going to work, there’s a huge bond that builds between you and the client,” she adds. Aideen has also had a client who’d been away from the salon for two years as she battled cancer, but who had recently returned. “As we don’t do wigs, at the time of her diagnosis we advised her on where to go to get one, and now she’s back and we’re working on making her hair thicker,” she reveals. “We have another client who had cancer several years ago – she’s been using anti hair-loss treatments since January and her hair is thicker and getting stronger. Treatments need to benefit the hair and the scalp. Once you have a healthy scalp it’s like planting seeds in a garden: if the soil is good, the seeds will grow – once you’ve got a good base, then the hair will grow more healthily,” she adds.

haircuts and colours! I toyed with the idea for a few years after school then settled into my first salon job at the age of 19. This year I won the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Colourist of the Year award. WHAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT THING YOU’VE LEARNT? Always keep your ear to the ground for new trends and

techniques. Hairdressing is constantly evolving and you need to stay ahead of the game. It’s important to always be ready to learn and experiment with new ideas, even if it’s outside of your comfort zone. WHO IS YOUR HAIRDRESSING HERO OR STYLE INSPIRATION? I always find it difficult to

narrow down to a specific iconic hairdresser, because I take inspiration from so many different places. There are the obvious choices, such as Daniel Galvin, James Brown and Patrick Cameron, but to be honest I take a lot of inspiration from the people and environment I work in each and every day.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

Hit the t e g r a t

r hair thinning ei th e m co er v o h Help clients tail business wit re r u o y st o o b d n ents worries a targeted treatm e, v si n te in ’s in Niox

HAIR THINNING is a concern for almost 50 per cent of the population, which is why you need Nioxin’s effective and targeted treatments for thinning hair – a range of products that aim to give thicker, fuller-looking hair for those who need it most.

Nioxin Deep Repair Hair Masque

Nioxin Scalp Density Protect

This masque provides up to a 97 per cent reduction of hair breakage.* It is composed of intense, lightweight conditioning agents that help provide protection against damage by strengthening the hair shaft.

An anti-breakage product that helps protect hair density. It also helps to regenerate the scalp’s surface up to 34 per cent faster than untreated skin, when used with the Scalp Renew Natural Dermabrasion Treatment.

Nioxin Hair Booster This intensive, leave-on booster is designed to target areas of low density and advanced hair thinning, such as a receding hairline. The concentrated formula with CoZyme, keratin and vitamin complex, boosts fragile hairs by protecting from cuticle damage.

Nioxin Diaboost Treatment Offer beautiful, thicker-looking hair with Diaboost. The thickening Xtrafusion treatment is designed to complement the Nioxin range and has been scientifically designed to increase the thickness of each hair strand.

*Versus non-conditioning shampoo, based on hair length of 30cm and measured by weight of broken hair

The intensive products you need in your salon now

Make thicker, fuller-looking hair a reality for your clients with Nioxin’s intensive treatments. For more information, contact your Wella account manager or visit nioxin.ie CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

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#CHedit

LIFE LESSONS BRIDGET HAREN, OWNER, ALTAMODA HAIR, ENNIS, CO. CLARE Education is the key to success. If you educate yourself as well as your staff, you will boost morale in the salon and inspire clients – they’ll see that you’re constantly learning and pushing boundaries in terms of up-skilling. The most important thing that I’ve done in my career to date was an international masters in colour and cut at Sassoon in London, which I finished in 2011. We try to constantly surprise our clients. I’ve started writing a column in a local newspaper and one of the most popular pieces was about the maturing woman and how her hair changes through time. We gained several new clients based on that column. Always keep your feet on the ground. Keep a level head and everything turns around. Sometimes you have a bad day, but the next day will be a better one.

Be grateful for all the clients that come into the salon. Without our clients we wouldn’t have a business. We started as a four-seater salon in the middle of a recession, and now we’re a 14-seater salon with a private bridal room and beauty suite. We have 12 staff including a nail technician and a beauty therapist. I’m switched on 24/7. I am trying to get to the OMC Team World Cup in March next year as part of Team Ireland in South Korea. The competitions are more about profile; as they are themed you have to do a lot of research before you present your vision to the judges – so you can show that you really know what you’re talking about. It’s the same with a client, you have to show them your vision in order for them to trust you. After next year’s competitions are over, I plan to have a long holiday! Hard work pays off. You have to be dedicated to your clients, to your co-workers and to work really well as part of a team. We all inspire each other in the salon because we do so much training and teaching; everyone works on shoots, so everyone gets to contribute creatively.

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#CHedit

Wella Professionals has launched a new Mineral Collection by Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE including five on-trend shades inspired by earth, minerals and stone for a saturated but not heavy colour result. The collection of cool colours is perfectly in tune with this season’s pioneering spirit. Joico launches the new Hair Shake finishing texturiser spray, a product that can be used once hair is dry; all clients do is shake it up and spray it on in layers wherever they want – including roots.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01 416 0900 wella.ie

COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Schwarzkopf Professional adds six new fashion shades to the IGORA Color10 colour chart with a range of four extra coverage shades for the more mature client.

RRP €25

045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

Redken takes multi-tasking to the next level with new One United all-in-one multi-benefit treatment. It offers 25 benefits including antifrizz, conditioning and adds shine and silky smoothness.

RRP €21.80 01 604 5918

redken.co.uk

IN-SALON SERVICE 01 404 6424

schwarzkopfprofessional.ie

KEUNE launches Colour Craving, a new range of products that tap into the demand for on-trend, fashionforward hues. The range of eight colours includes four soft pastels and four vivid vibrants. It contains a conditioning cream base with added silk proteins to nourish the hair and protect from UV rays.

7Seconds Glossing from Unite is an anti-humectant shine spray that fights frizz and provides both UV and thermal protection.

RRP €27.50 061 212 028

essentialsalon.ie

IN-SALON SERVICE 061 212 028 essentialsalon.ie

IN-SALON SERVICE 1890 812 022

tigiprofessional.com

Vitalshot, a new product from Keratin Complex, is a concentrated dose of keratin that targets the internal bonds of the hair, binds moisture, offers antioxidant protection and reduces frizz and breakage.

RRP €15

061 212 028 essentialsalon.ie

Couture Styling introduces Matérialiste by Kérastase, the perfect styling product for creating the look of the moment: the braid! This all-over thickening spray gel uses innovative technology to instantly expand the diameter of the hair fibre.

RRP €23

01 604 5918 kerastase.co.uk

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STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

IT’S ALL ABOUT... COLOUR PROTECTION

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

THERE’S A BRAND NEW name on every celebrity hairdresser’s lips and it will be on yours soon! The word is Olaplex, a revolutionary new ingredient for hair that’s rocking the hairdressing world. This colour upgrade service is a treatment sensation among A-listers such as J.Lo, Gwyneth Paltrow and Kim Kardashian. It’s not a treatment, a masque, or a conditioner – it’s a bond multiplier that you add either when a client is getting their hair done or as a stand-alone salon treatment. Designed and developed by scientists in California, this product is going to change the world of hair colouring forever. ‘If a beauty company could keep chemical treatments from hurting hair, that’d really be something’ – these were the thoughts of Dean Cristal, founder of Olaplex, which spurred him to conceive this new wonder product. It seeks out and helps to rebuild the broken disulphide bonds within the hair that can break during

chemical processes, particularly during colouring or heat styling. These important disulphide bonds give elasticity and strength to the hair. This innovative use of chemistry has never been seen before in hair and opens up new possibilities in hairdressing colour variations. Up to 350 Irish salons are already using Olaplex as a pre-treatment or alongside colouring or lightening services, including Ian Brady, owner of Cats salon on Dublin’s Balfe St, who started using the product two months ago. “You see the results immediately,” he says. “We bleached someone’s hair the other day and I was quite surprised by the quality of the results. It’s an expensive product, but it’s worth it.”

IN-SALON SERVICE 045 856 490 xpertpro.ie

AUTUMNWAVES Embrace curly clients by offering Joico’s new Curl range including shampoos, conditioners, anti-frizz stylers, foam waxes and more. From corkscrew curls to long flowing waves, no two types of curl are the same – so put down those straighteners and let clients get wavy!

L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Hollywood Waves contains elastine technology, which is formed with polymers for flexibility and smoothness. The collection has three key products to ensure that wave or curl is kept in the spotlight – Siren Waves, Waves Fatale and Spiral Queen.

xpertpro.ie

lorealprofessionnel.ie

RRP FROM €14.50 045 856 490

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p20-21_Shop_GW1.indd 3

RRP €17.99 +44 (0)800 072 6699

21/08/2015 10:45

#CHedit

Inside story ANDREW MCELROY HAIR CONCEPTS, BRAY

FORMER CORPORATE high-roller Andrew McElroy realised the dream of a lifetime by opening his own salon. Formerly an operations manager for Facebook, he left the corporate world behind and fast-tracked himself into the hairdressing business. “I had always wanted to be a hairdresser so I retrained at House of Colour and became a senior stylist within two years,” says Andrew. The salon is located in a period building with large sash windows and the plan was to keep its old charm and add a modern twist. “My idea was to make it look like a room rather than a salon and to retain its old, vintage charm and add an industrial tone. Adding industrial elements, such as bespoke styling stations and conduit piping for handles, gives the salon an androgynous feel. We used a neutral colour scheme with pale grey on the walls and charcoal on the woodwork and window frames.”

DIR Salon Furniture’s faux leather Continental chair with adjustable headrest usually costs €308, but its current VAT-free promotion has it reduced until the end of September. RRP €251 01 429 7969 dirgroup.ie

SWEET DREAMS

▲

BACK TO BLACK

▲

HOT BUYS

The Chatworth chair from DIR Salon Furniture has high density memory foam; comes in red, cream, brown and black and with the current promotion it’s reduced by €80 until the end of September. RRP €349 01 429 7969 dirgroup.ie

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#CHedit Sharon Ní Bheoláin #hairbybrend an #hessionhaird ressing #buffm akeup @liljesm akeup

y of life Ta pa s an d Ca va is a wa ph ot o @ brico nsty le @ ke nn yw

#hairbybrendan @hessionhairdressing @liljesmakeup

In the frame

Brendan Hunt, junior stylist at Hession Hairdressing in Drumcondra, Dublin, snaps away SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadirl

Off to see a man about a dog

drawsi ng by Brenda n! #given chy #aw15

Georgia Salpa #hairbybrendan @mymillymoo @briconstyle @aaronjhurley @roywong @andrearochemodelagency

@paulcanning pix @taine king @teeelliott @lkmillinery #hairbybrend an #hessionhaird ressing

To-do list the hottest happenings this month and next…

20 September

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GAIN BUSINESS ACUMEN

Unite global educational director Marcus Allen leads a two-day Unite Paramount Business 1 course at the Savoy Hotel in Limerick. Call 061 212028

27 September

UP-CLOSE STYLE

The L’Oréal Professionnel Catwalk Showcase returns on the last Sunday in September and takes place at Dublin’s Royal Hospital, Kilmainham. Call 01 6045918

October

Ch ee rs to th e top -k not!

L’Oréal Colour Trophy competition this morning #leathertrousers #meanbusiness

LONDON CALLING

The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK and Ireland Final takes place on this date at the legendary Roundhouse venue in London’s Camden Town. Call +44 (0)845 601 8128

Scene

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH â&#x20AC;&#x201C; GET YOURSELF SCENE!

HOUSE STYLE

THE MULTI AWARD-WINNING House of Colour team showcased its exclusive S/S15 collection featuring EIMI, the new Wella Professionals styling range, at the G Hotel in Galway. The audience was treated to an array of inspirational, fashionforward looks that included all lengths and types of hair. Olive Tucker Lee, Ericka Kidd and Sinead Berrigan, along with co-owner of House of Colour, David Campbell, brought these looks to life using the line-up of new EIMI styling products, which provided plenty of style innovation on the night.

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Olive Tucker Lee

David Campbell

Nicky Clarke OBE

Sir Clive Woodward

Andy Lopata George Clarke

Richard Watson

EOIN WRIGHT from the Foundation salon in Dublin’s Stephen Street Upper was one of the Irish delegates who attended this year’s Wella Business Network Live. A Wella educator and member of the Wella Style Council, Eoin explains: “It’s a meeting of like-minded people but who are outside your industry, so you get time out to get a clear and fresh perspective.” Held at golfing favourite The Belfry in Sutton Coldfield, UK, the event opened with networking expert Andy Lopata. Rugby World Cup-winning England coach Sir Clive Woodward stressed the importance of ‘teamship’, understanding future trends was the topic of speaker Richard Watson, and getting everyone on song were TV voice coaches David and Carrie Grant. Day two welcomed presenter and architect George Clarke sharing the importance of mentors, while charity worker and TV presenter Katie Piper, shared her emotional story of being attacked and disfigured by sulphuric acid. Closing the day was hair icon Nicky Clarke OBE, who gave an entertaining account of his 40-year career. How on earth will Wella top this next year?

Eoin Wright (far right)

INSPIRATION STATION

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SECRET’S OUT GOLDWELL BROUGHT the UK & Ireland final of its global Color Zoom competition to an exciting conclusion at its annual Summer Party, held on a balmy summer’s evening. Salons from across the country sipped champagne in London’s Freemasons Hall (decked out in abstract floral displays to celebrate the competition’s theme of Traditional Rebels) before enjoying a colour-drenched catwalk show from Goldwell global creative ambassador Mark Leeson and the announcement of the UK & Ireland’s gold winners. They will now represent the region at the Global Zoom final in Las Vegas in October.

And the winners are…

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Nicholas Holmes

Esther Layo

Natalie Cara Jones

New Talent: Natalie Cara Jones, Cameo, Herefordshire Creative Colourist: Esther Layo, Hare & Bone, London Partner Category: Nicholas Holmes, Hobson & Holmes, Durham

TRENDVISION AWARD

JOURNEY TO THE TOP

THE IRISH HEAT FINALISTS ARE HEADING TO LONDON IN OCTOBER TO BATTLE IT OUT AT THIS YEAR’S WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD UK AND IRELAND FINAL AND TO DISCOVER WHO WILL BE GOING TO THE INTERNATIONAL FINAL. MAKE SURE YOU’RE THERE TO FIND OUT FIRST WHO WILL BE THE IRISH GOLD, SILVER AND BRONZE WINNERS FIRST AND FOREMOST, a massive congratulations to the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2015 Irish Heat winners! They’re now busy preparing for the TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final – and you can show your support for them on 5 October in London. Get a ticket to one of the most glamorous industry events of the year and you’ll not only be among the first to find out who this year’s Irish Gold, Silver and Bronze winners are, but you’ll also enjoy: ● Sensational shows from some of the biggest names in the industry and a surprise from one of Wella’s iconic ambassadors (see opposite for details) ● A cocktail reception and a three-course dinner ● A surprise headline act and DJ The event will be hosted by TV presenter, Claudia Winkleman, so get ready for a night that people will be talking about long after the last reveller has gone home.

DATE: 5 OCT 2015

WHERE: ROUNDHOUSE CAMDEN, UK

ON SALE NOW! CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

Support your favourite competitor by voting for them online in the ALL-NEW PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD 2015! Vote online at wella.co.uk/trendvision

NEW FOR 2015!

The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award goes digital with a new website and a People’s Choice Award. Visit wella.co.uk/trendvision to:

l Meet the competitors and leave them a good luck message l See who the esteemed panel of judges are this year l Vote for your favourite in the People’s Choice Award

THE SHOW TEAMS AKIN KONIZI, HOB SALONS

Admired by his contemporaries as an icon for a new generation, Akin is an award-winning hairdresser and an industry leading light.

BRUNO MARC, MARC ANTONI

A regular on stage for Wella Professionals, Bruno’s keen for his company to show you what it does best – create beautiful hair for clients.

LEONARDO RIZZO AND SHARON COX, SANRIZZ

International creative director Leonardo, and international education director Sharon, of Sanrizz salon group, promise an incredible show.

DOM CAPEL, LARA JOHNSON LIFESTYLE

Constantly in demand, Dom Capel is a seasoned pro and the perfect man to quiz when it comes to session knowledge.

ANGELO VALLILLO, ZULLO & HOLLAND

DON’T MISS OUT,

day! book your ticket to am te ts en Call the Wella ev your ok bo or on 01 416 0900 a ell W ur yo h ug ticket thro t un Professionals’ acco manager

A rising star on the British hairdressing scene, Angelo is creative and highly talented, as well as a Sebastian Professional Creative Style Artist.

A SPECIAL MYSTERY GUEST

One of the world’s most loved hairdressers, appearing on countless world hairdressing stages and educating 20,000 stylists every year.

Keep up to date with the latest Wella Professionals TrendVision Award news by following @wellapro #tva on Twitter CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

GROOM

TO IMPROVE

GROOMING IS BOOMING – THE DEMAND FOR MENS HAIRDRESSING IS GROWING, WITH SALON OWNERS REPORTING A HEALTHY INCREASE IN TURNOVER. GET ON THE TREND TRAIN AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS THE RISE IN STYLE-conscious Irish men shows no signs of abating. And it’s providing a welcome boost to existing hair salons and spawning new barber shops and men-only salons across the country. This coincides with a similar trend across the water where men have given the UK’s hair and beauty industry a real boost as they become more confident about venturing from the barber’s chair to other forms of male grooming. Nine in 10 UK salons reported an increase in takings from men in 2014, according to an industry report by Salon Services. Alan Revitt, commercial and marketing director of Salon Services Ireland and UK, said: “We’ve seen steady growth in recent years of men coming into salons for beauty as well as hair treatments, so the businesses that have branched into this market will be in a particularly strong position to grow.” In Ireland, industry insiders and new salon openings indicate that the male grooming trend is having a positive effect on the industry here, too. Niall Bennett, who’s been running his unisex H2O Creative Hair in New Ross, Co. Wexford for 15 years, says that 30 per cent of his clients are now men. “It’s growing all the time and it’s a highend male client, buying products including shampoos, conditioners and grooming treatments,” he says. Niall cites pop culture influences on men’s

increased interest in how they look, including British crime drama Peaky Blinders and US drama Mad Men. He explains: “Clients want a groomed look with a tapered haircut. Actor Cillian Murphy stars in Peaky Blinders and his haircut is very raw, and men want the modern clean version of that haircut. Mad Men also added to the trend; many of our male clientele will show me photos from Pinterest or Google on their phones or tablets – with that you get to look at what the client wants during the consultation.” Have men’s attitudes changed? “Men put a lot more thought into their hair, they’re more educated and know exactly what they want – education is paramount in growing our male clientele,” reveals Niall. “Our clientele is as young as 12 and as old as 75 – they’re well-groomed guys: they’re using face creams, shampoos and their clothes are well cut. I would estimate the fastest growing retail sector for our salon is male products – they’re catching up with the females. Men return every two to four weeks to maintain a sharp look and are proving to be loyal clients.” Emmett Byrne, owner and creative director of the Butcher Barber, opened his male-only salon three years ago just off Dublin’s Grafton Street. His business is booming and he plans to expand it this autumn. “Male grooming is very lucrative, it’s why my business has grown so quickly – since I opened, turnover increased by 15 per cent

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MALE GROOMING

GROOMING THIS WAY CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

ST4Men

in year two and 25 per cent in year three. The reason we’re expanding is because we turn so many people away every day, we’re going to break into more of the grooming side of things with our new fit out and expansion. “Men are also looking for services beyond the cut; the day is gone of an Irish man just buying gel, he wants different styling products to achieve a more natural look. “It is still important to the Irish man to find the right balance between looking groomed and also looking masculine,” explains Emmet, who’s a member of the Wella Style Council and an educator for Wella Ireland. And what about men buying products? “We’ve seen a big upturn in the sales of hairspray and I never thought I would see that, but it’s to achieve the groomed look. “Our clients vary from solicitors to young doctors to rugby players and pop stars – all looking to achieve a similar objective. Our client is a young professional, career-driven, single or married and understands how he portrays himself in the workplace can help to progress his career.” Kara O’Shea, general manager of the Sean Taaffe Hair Group, explains why the company opened a dedicated male salon two years ago. “We saw a demand, we had a great clientele coming into the ladies salon and we had a gents’ area in the back but we felt it was a bit daunting for male clients waiting and queueing – we weren’t sure they wanted to wait or queue with the girls!” explains Kara. The salon group opened ST4Men in Killarney, a dedicated gents’ salon, and has seen a significant growth in male clientele. “We have three cutting stations and there’s a queue out the door. This is definitely a growth area, men don’t want just a quick ‘in and out’ haircut anymore. They want to discuss the cut and their style; guys have become really image conscious – the day of a ‘number one’ or ‘short back and sides’ are gone.”

Barber Chris O’Riordan and sports star Paul Galvin at ST4Men in Killarney

Kara says that 10 per cent of the group’s annual turnover is generated by the men’s salon and that product sales are steady. Sean Bryan, owner of Cut & Sew barbers, has opened two shops in the past year and plans to open a third on the south side of Dublin next year. He explains: “I set up Cut & Sew as a pop-up shop with one man and one mirror in the basement of All City Records in Dublin. Before that I was a hairdresser with Toni&Guy and Queen Beauty Emporium. “We opened two barbers as we were growing at such a fast pace and wanted to have two separate client bases. Temple Bar is a funkier shop with a slightly younger clientele, while Wellington Quay is what I like to call the Rolls Royce of Irish barbershops – with custom-built barber chairs, an antique American pool table and a fully-stocked bar,” explains Sean. “Male grooming is growing as men tend to want to look after themselves more and more. The new male client brings in a photo from Instagram or Facebook and wants to replicate that look. We’re known for fades, but as a lot of our staff are former women’s hairdressers we offer a prestigious haircut with extensive amounts of scissor work, consultation, hair care and aftercare. “Some clients want beard trims and a lot of them want the right product so they can replicate the look we have created for them in the salon. I hope the trend continues to grow as we’ve only been open two years!”

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MALE GROOMING

STOCK UP PROformance is the newest men’s grooming range to hit the Irish market. Manufactured in New York and owned by Shiseido, its USP is the Vitalock-6 Complex and VitaPROx Complex formulas it contains which deliver highperformance, RRP from €10.

The GO24•7 men’s grooming brand was launched last June into Ireland, and all the haircare products in the range are scented with ginseng and madacamia nut. We can’t get enough of the Pomade, RRP €13.95. Also launched this year in Ireland, label.men includes seven barbering products (RRP from €12.50) featuring: tea tree, peppermint, clove, sandalwood, carrot root and seed oil. We love the Scalp Tonic (150ml, RRP €13.95). [3D]MEN, Schwarzkopf Professional’s male grooming range launched in 2014, consists of six care and three styling products including the Strong Hold Gel (150ml, RRP €9.45). L’Oréal Professionnel’s Wet Domination Extreme Splash Gélle by Tecni.ART (€15.49) is being marketed as a wet-look gel for men and women. Its balm-like texture offers weightless hold and style control.

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

ENJOY THE FINER THINGS

hink of the opulence of Chanel and the bejewelled models at Givenchy this season, throw in the exuberance found in an Arabic gold souk and a touch of indulgent silk, and you’ve got the latest antique, vintage rose gold and gorgeous chocolate suede shades from TIGI copyright©olour. Developed by the TIGI International Creative Team, the eight shades are perfect for those who like to add a little indulgence and stay on trend. “The colour palette for this autumn and winter is rich, deep and complex. I’m excited about these new shades because they’re completely on-trend,” says Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director. There are three Creative shades and five ammoniafree Gloss shades to choose from. The creative colours are developed in a permanent base and offer four levels of lift. They’re ideal for blending non-pigmented hair and work well when you’re looking for increased coverage mixed with a quarter of the corresponding natural shades. The Gloss shades are developed in a demi-permanent base and are perfect for refreshing corresponding TIGI copyright©olour Creative shades through the lengths and ends, as well as toning prelightened hair. The Gloss shades can also lift up to one level when used with 20 vol/6% Activator, making them a great introduction to low-commitment colour.

DIFFUSE THE SITUATION

THE DIFFUSED SILHOUETTE TECHNIQUE, CREATED BY CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST, TIGI GLOBAL TECHNICAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GIVES THE FACE A FLATTERING CONTOURING EFFECT, CREATING LIFT AND BRIGHTENING THE COMPLEXION

Step one: Create a profile parting from the forehead to the top of the crown. Step two: Two inches back from the profile parting, create a circular section to the high recession. Take a larger circular section from the high recession to the back of the ear. Secure with TIGI PRO clips. Repeat on the opposite side. Step three: At the low crown, create a horizontal parting from radial to radial. Secure the two sections with TIGI PRO clips. Step four: Using protective gloves, take a horizontal parting and apply formula 1 to new growth through the lengths and

THE FORMULAS NATURAL LEVEL: 5/0 LIGHT BROWN FORMULA 1 RICH SUEDE 30G GLOSS 4/30 + 30G GLOSS 6/30 + 90G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55%

ends. Place a TIGI copyright©olour meche strip at the nape. Continue through to low crown. Step five: Take a horizontal parting from the low crown. Apply formula 1 to new growth through to mid-lengths. With freehand blending, apply formula 2 to the lengths and ends. Isolate with a TIGI copyright©olour meche strip. Step six: On the side circular section, take a slight diagonal parting. Apply formula 1 to the new growth through to mid-lengths. With freehand blending, apply formula 3 to lengths and ends. Isolate and repeat on the opposite side.

Step seven: For last section, take fine slices and apply formula 1 to new growth through to mid-lengths. Use freehand blending to apply formula 3 to lengths and ends. Isolate section. Repeat on the opposite side. Step eight: Between each slice, apply formula 1 to new growth through to midlengths. Process colour for 20 minutes. Emulsify, rinse and remove using Catwalk by TIGI Oatmeal & Honey shampoo and conditioner. Tone prelightened sections with formula 4. Process for up to 20 minutes. Emulsify, rinse and remove.

FORMULA 2 LIGHT SUEDE 40G GLOSS 6/30 + 60G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55% FORMULA 3 40G TRUE LIGHT + 60G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55% FORMULA 4 (TONER) CAMEL 30G GLOSS 7/32 + 45G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55%

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

FREE FOR ALL ADDING VALUE TO your business is a vital part of any salon strategy, so have you thought about introducing a new product line? Specifically, have you thought of a ‘free from’ range? The demand for ‘clean’ products is gathering momentum, with everyone from cancer sufferers in recovery opting for products with minimal chemical content to clients who want the option of using more natural products as part of an eco lifestyle, joining the trend. Niall Colgan Hairdressing in Limerick city has stocked Wella Professionals Elements for the past six months and has had notable results. “We love the fact that it’s sulphate, paraben and artificial colourant-free. The Elements care system, which contains shampoos, conditioners, masques and leave-in conditioners, instantly prepares and prevents against keratin degeneration,” explains salon manager Jackie Sinnott. “The Elements homecare products are affordable and the results are amazing. We have repeat homecare clients who come for cuts and colours, and our stylists and colourists always comment on their hair as it has maintained its integrity from the last colour – the improvement can be seen on every visit.” Jackie continues: “Customers are attracted to brands like this because it’s a more natural product and we highly recommend that clients continue the programme of homecare

to continue the benefits. The type of customer attracted to the brand is quite diverse including people with virgin hair to coloured, dry or damaged hair. “We’ve had new customers asking for it and had calls asking if we stock it. We have a few cancer patients going through treatment and after treatment they want to use clean products. This is particularly so for women, as they want to be able to wash their hair when they recover without worrying about what’s in the product. People are more aware of eco alternatives now and we want to give our clients another option,” she adds. Nicola Keelan, junior stylist at Dublin’s Aviary Lane, explains that the Davines range used in the salon is 98 per cent organic and that up to 60 per cent of the salon’s clientele use the brand. “The majority of clients use the range; the products are made using plant extracts and there are no chemicals – it’s all organic and the fragrances are not perfumed. “These aren’t average clients; they’re people who really want to look after their hair and they have money as products retail from €18 upwards. They are working women who are well informed and health-conscious, have kids, work full-time but still want to maintain their hair – so they know what they’re talking about. They would be in their late 20s, early 30s and upwards,” she says.

Villa Lodola

ATTRACT ECO-CONSCIOUS CLIENTS AND BUILD A WHOLE NEW REVENUE STREAM BY ADDING A ‘FREE FROM’ RANGE TO YOUR SALON

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ECO

RETAIL ESSENTIALS Get curly haired clients to join the cocleansing trend with the sulphate-free and low lather formula Be Curly Co-Wash from Aveda. It gently cleanses the scalp, moisturises curls for up to three days and reduces frizz, RRP €27 The new kid on the block is Villa Lodola from Umbria, Italy, and the beauty of its certified organic range is that each product can be used for both hair and skin – we love it! Prices start from €16 The Hydrate range from Pureology is a professional colour care system that replenishes and renews while protecting radiance. Enhanced with naturally derived botanicals such as shea butter, jojoba, rose and peppermint, we love the Hydrate Shampoo, RRP €17.55 Created in 2001 in Tuscany, the Actyva range has been developed into a 40-strong product line-up of shampoos, conditioners, treatments and essential oils dedicated to improving every aspect of the health of the hair and scalp combining natural ingredients and science. RRP from €12.95 Davines has repackaged its bestselling OI line and added to the existing four luxury haircare products with the launch of OI/Body Wash. All of the products feature the benefits of restructuring Roucou oil from the Amazon. Prices start from €19 Wella Professionals introduced Elements to Ireland earlier this year, a care system that repairs and prevents against keratin degeneration. Free from sulphates, parabens and artificial colourants, it is enriched with natural tree extract to provide up to 10 times more keratin protection. Renewing Shampoo RRP €13.50

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Back to the future Blunt haircuts and daring silhouettes give an edge to Alan Kevilleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s futuristic take this autumn PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN RAWSON

HAIR Mary Alamine, Royals Hair & Beauty. MAKE-UP Mikele Simone. STYLING Jana Bortolo

HAIR Alan Keville Artistic Team; MAKE-UP Ailbhe Lynch; STYLING Amy Leonard

DOCTOR FEELGOOD

TEXTURE IS THE THEME AT SITSTIL THIS SEASON. FROM CANDYFLOSS FLUFF TO SURF-KISSED WAVES, IT’S TIME TO JOIN THE CURVE PHOTOGRAPHY BY GERRY BALFE SMYTH

HAIR Mark Doherty and Jake Ryan, Sitstil; MAKE-UP Leonard Daly; STYLING Alison Conneely

LAST WORD

GETTING A BOOST

THE TRANSFORMATIVE EFFECTS OF INCREASED HAIR GROWTH ON OLDER CLIENTS CANNOT BE UNDERESTIMATED, SO WHY NOT LEARN MORE ABOUT A SERVICE THAT CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS? FOR SOME OF US, hair is naturally prone to thinning and even hair loss. While this is usually thought of as being a maleonly problem, women are also likely to feel the effects. This can have a very negative effect on self-esteem. Women are under a lot of pressure these days to look their best at all times and thinning hair sends a message that the vitality and vigour of the hair is not what it used to be – and this signal can translate to the person as well. There are a lot of reasons why we’re prone to hair loss, such as acute illness, poor diet, nutritional deficiencies or genetic predisposition. With a healthy lifestyle and balanced diet, the correct diagnosis and appropriate products, we can hugely improve our hair’s health – both physically and cosmetically. Hair cells are among the fastest growing in the body so diet and lifestyle can greatly affect the performance of the follicles. Having the right nutrients available to the body is important; these include essential fatty acids, minerals such as zinc

and selenium, amino acids, iron and vitamins A, C and E are particularly important. As hairdressers we’re first and foremost in the scalp diagnostics business. We have a broad range of hair and scalp treatments available, so we can directly diagnose and treat poor hair growth – which usually starts with an unhealthy scalp. A great starting point is to prepare the scalp for revitalisation by using products that act like facials for the scalp. This can lay the groundwork for the next stage of hair regeneration around the hair follicles. Specialised treatments such as those from Nioxin are recommended every four to six weeks, so they build in extra salon revenue, creating repeat visits for very effective services. With this comes a new confidence and results that both the client and hairdresser can see – and what woman wouldn’t want a healthy scalp and beautiful, thicker hair? John Geaney is owner of John Geaney for Hair in Cork

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