Creative HEAD Ireland September/October 2014 by Alfol Publishing

e7.50 Sept/Oct 2014

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CH Creative Head

Ireland

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New classics Take a fresh approach

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Modern love The latest Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks collection, Modern Glamour, leads the way to a bright, shiny and totally new season

Each season brings with it new trends that begin on catwalks and filter down on to the streets and into the salons, to be embodied in looks that are tailored to each client. For every hairdresser, being on top of trends is a must â&#x20AC;&#x201C; along with knowing how to interpret them for the here and now. To this end, the Schwarzkopf Professional creative team has taken its cues from a juxtaposition of new and old for a high glamour edge that can be seen in this capsule collection of three distinct looks. These commercial adaptations have been devised with accessibility and salon success in mind, providing you with both the inspiration and the technical know-how to bring the best cuts, colours and styles to life.

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Boho Curls

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In the Salon

Bohemia is brought to life once again with multi-textured fabrics and a palette of rich reds and blacks. Hair is a voluminous feast of large, soft curls with rounded shapes complemented by a dappling colour technique for naturallooking results.

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There was no shortage of dialled-down glamour on the A/W14 catwalks, a trend that is never try-hard but totally irresistible. Cutting takes a similarly laidback approach with contrasting lengths and dishevelled textures, while colour can be subtle or daring for a truly modern spirit.

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Metal Chic

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In the Salon

This is metallic like weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never seen â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the fashion equivalent of flashing the cash. Luxe fabrics meet sophisticated shades of gold, silver, pewter and rose. Meanwhile crafted, round fringes define the cut direction and the muted metallics offer a perfect base note to accents of shiny navy and rich chocolate for a clean, concise finish with high contrast.

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Hair: Simon Ellis, international creative director; Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison, Schwarzkopf Professional global ambassadors; Steve Hogan, Essential Looks creative director. Styling: Jelena Schneider. Make-up: Isabel Peters. Photography: Jack Eames.

For more information call 0044 1296 314 000 or visit schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

21/8/14 10:20:42

Creativeheadmag.com Looks

Hair

News

R u n way

Blogs

Events

Sh o p

Competitions

KNOW IT Celebrate all the Most Wanted and The It List 2014 winners

WATCH IT Catch the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final fashion films, from the likes of Daniel Galvin and Charles Worthington

BOOK IT Discover which stars have already signed up for Salon Smart 2015

Steffi Tanian

LOVE IT! Inspirational photographic collections, including this from Australia’s Steffi Tanian

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WIN IT! Will you scoop a free Catwalk by TIGI Fashionista Violet or Brunette colour care set?

@creativeheadirl

21/8/14 10:22:05

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PRETENCE IS AN OFFENCE. Mix, match and manipulate new Bed Head cult creations to suit your unique style. Go it alone! Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be a clone. You can find Bed Head at cutting edge salons.

Your Hair. Your Way. UK: 0844 844 0944 BEDHEAD 2014 PRETENCE_DPS_CreativeHead_12_08_14.indd 2

Ireland: 01890 812022

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Editor’s letter

38 40

hello...

THE NEW SEASON is always a wonderful time to reinvent yourself, both personally and professionally – so A/W14 seems like the ideal time for me to take on a new challenge, editing Creative HEAD Ireland. When it comes to starting over, it can sometimes be tough to know where to begin. Does it start with training? Exploring new brands? Supercharging your salon with some stellar social media work? In this issue, we’re giving you the tools to reboot and power up your business in a variety of ways, from looking at the importance of social media in our business story on page 16 and in Kieran Murphy’s rousing Last Word on page 50; to taking a look at hair extensions as a smart and profitable way to increase footfall and client loyalty, from page 40. I hope you’ll learn as much from this issue as I did – it’s an exciting time, with plenty to look forward to.

Rosemary Mac Cabe, Editor

rosemary@headmag.ie Creative HEAD Magazine 06

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Creative HEAD Magazine App Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:27:38

new with tri-zone™ technology

introducing a world of styling possibilities Discover ghd curve®, the new range of wands & tongs from ghd. Our patented tri-zone™ technology allows you to style constantly and evenly at 185˚C, for healthier-looking curls that stay locked-in all day and night. Contact your ghd account manager or call +44(0)1924 423400 for more information.

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September/October

WHAT’S INSIDE CH 30 %7.50 SEPT/OCT 2014

In print ● online ● everywhere!

Peter Mark hosts ghd and Sassoon, L’Oréal Colour Trophy comes to town and Paul Mitchell takes over Vegas

IRELAND

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2014

SCENE

CREATIVE HEAD

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

New classics Take a fresh approach

ON THE COVER

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Hair Simon Ellis, Tyler Johnston, Lesley Jennison and Steve Hogan, for Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Styling Jelena Schneider Make-up Isabel Peters Photography Jack Eames

INSIDE STORY

There’s a bright and airy future for Hession Hairdressing in Clontarf after this makeover

EDITOR ROSEMARY MAC CABE

ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD

EDITOR IN CHIEF AMANDA NOTTAGE

ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL

ADVERTISING BEN BALDOCK LAURA TUCKER

PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK

ART GRAEME WHITE CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

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Creative HEAD Ireland 6-9 Trinity Street Dublin 2 01 617 7947 rosemary@headmag.ie

Charles Worthington’s latest collection, The One, is inspired by the ambiguity of androgyny

Creative HEAD Ireland is published 6 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press.

Creative HEAD Ireland is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN

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@creativeheadirl CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

21/8/14 14:13:29

THICKER, FULLER-LOOKING HAIR STARTS IN THE SALON

Introducing Nioxin Therapy – 5 new Nioxin services to help promote thicker, fuller-looking hair. To find out more about Nioxin’s New Services, please contact your Wella Account Manager or visit Nioxin.co.uk

Available from ESSENTIAL SALON SUPPLIES 061-212-028 | www.essentialsalon.ie | info@essentialsalon.ie

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The news and know-how from your industry

Wella selects 2014/15 GENeration NOW team get in touch Want to tell us about your next exciting awards event or opening? Tweet us! @creativeheadirl

Creative Head Ireland

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Clockwise from left: Emma Wainwright, Paul Paterson, Callum Standen, James Earnshaw, Matthew Feeney and Rob Czlapka

The edit

S ta r T e am

A group of six up-and-coming hairdressers have been chosen for Wella’s Generation NOW team for 2014/2015 – with the aim of finding and fostering young talent in the industry. Generation NOW provides a unique platform for inspirational, burgeoning talent, and is a great launchpad for stylists hungry to make their mark on an increasingly competitive landscape. The team of six, chosen from heats held in Ireland and the UK, are: Matthew Feeney, from Aviary Lane in Dublin; James Earnshaw, from the Francesco Group in Birmingham; Paul Paterson of Ishi Salon in Edinburgh; Emma Wainwright from Soul Hair in Chester; Rob Czlapka of RCNQ in Manchester; and Callum Standen from The Egg, Norfolk. The next year will see the team take part in a busy schedule of exciting events geared at giving these young stylists valuable insight into what it’s like working at the top of the industry, such as taking part in the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final and working with industry greats in workshops and demonstrations.

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#CHedit

Ivan Bishoff

Creative HEAD UK editor wins Creative HEAD UK editor Amanda Nottage has scooped the Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year title at this year’s Fashion and Beauty Monitor Journalism Awards. Established to recognise excellence in fashion and beauty journalism, the awards received more than 1,500 nominations. A panel of judges from PR, media and creative industries determined the winners. Keysha Davis, editor of Blackhair magazine and an awards judge, said: “[Amanda’s work] was the kind of thing you would normally expect from a fashion glossy, so it immediately stood out to us.”

Brown Sugar

L’Oréal pro director steps down from role The L’Oréal Colour Trophy was the scene not only for a night of raucous entertainment and spellbinding shows (get the lowdown on the night on page 30) – but it was also a night to say a fond farewell to Ivan Bishoff, who retired as commercial director of the L’Oréal Professional Products Division, after 44 years with the company. Ivan began his career – fittingly, in hairdressing – in the ’60s, training for three years before becoming chief colourist in Peter Hair Creations on Grafton Street. But the commercial side of the industry beckoned and, in 1973, he began as technical consultant in L’Oréal Professional Products Division. Ten years later, Ivan moved into management at L’Oréal and was responsible for introducing Kérastase to Ireland. He also oversaw the launch of the first L’Oréal Academy on Leeson Street before, in 2001, becoming commercial director of a division that encompasses Redken, L’Oréal Professionnel, Pureology, Kérastase, Shu Uemura Art of Hair, Matrix and Essie Professional. A moving presentation at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy saw the industry’s greats pay homage to Ivan, before the announcement – met with great fanfare – that he would be staying on at L’Oréal in a non-executive role as chairman, with the aim of mentoring, guiding and advising the team.

Get all made up with Brown Sugar Brush up on your make-up skills with the best of the best – Dublin’s Brown Sugar is running professional make-up courses in October under the tutelage of celebrity make-up artist Dearbhla Keenan. The courses are suitable for beginners or professional standard make-up artists and will give you all you need to kickstart a career in make-up artistry, or simply to refresh your skills. Using Brown Sugar’s premium range, KOHL Cosmetics, and with a choice of either a four-week course for one evening a week or an intensive two-day course (E600), you’ll leave with a 12-piece brush set, course notes, two professional shots, a KOHL discount card and a KOHL Professional Make-up Certificate.

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Wella has launched a new Instagram campaign to celebrate the launch of its INSTAMAT!C colour service – you can upload your INSTAMAT!C looks using #colourflash Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 14:14:37

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72,000

MY months AHEAD

The amount raised for Breast Cancer Ireland by a team of Ireland’s hairdressing elite, supported by L’Oréal Professionnel, who pedalled a massive 500km from Dublin to Paris this summer – including L’Oréal’s Mark Cullen, Patricia Strachan, Isabelle Purcell and Laura Carroll, with stylists from salons Ciaran Nevin Hairdressing, Zeba Hairdressing, Brown Sugar, Jim Hatton Haircare, The Orange Room, The Edge Hair Design and Glamorous Trends.

❤ Lee Stafford

WE LOV E

Salon Smart reveals starstudded line-up LEE STAFFORD IS among the first star names revealed for Salon Smart 2015. The celebrity stylist will be joined by marketing specialist Laura Caudery and styling duo Hooker & Young. Caudery, currently director of Fetcham Park wedding venue, has a background in marketing for Burberry and Alfred Dunhill and knows a thing or two about engaging with clients on social media. Hooker & Young are back by popular demand, showcasing their artistry in a main stage show. Salon Smart, Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event, takes place 26 to 27 April 2015 in London. For tickets, call +44 (0)1434 610944

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WITH A RETRO atomiser look, clients will adore new One Dust salt water spray powder. It can be used on freshly washed hair for extra oomph and to refresh day-after hair. With Christmas coming up we think this will be a retail big hitter!

STYLE COUNCIL Session stylists Paul Percival and Adam Reed have launched the Creative Council to showcase the creative and technical best of their Percy & Reed salons. The Council consists of Adam, Andrew John, Romin Sartipi, Ashley Beecroft, Olivia Bucknell, Lucy Welling and Ky Wilson.

What do September and October have in store for…

PJ FOLEY VANITY HAIR

Vanity Hair has had a really hectic, wedding-filled summer so we’re looking forward to really getting stuck into some changes in the salon. We’re expanding our nail bar and service menu, which is very exciting and something our clients have been asking for – and I’ll be going to the US to search for inspiration at New York Fashion Week!

KATE CLEARY SOPHISTIKATES

I was nominated twice in the Irish Photographic Awards, and we also launched Great Lengths in the salon, so there was quite a buzz. We hope to keep it going with the launch of a loyalty card scheme. Our success is down to the staff and their willingness to bring new things to the salon, as well as the wonderful customers.

MARK O’KEEFFE BROWN SUGAR AND SUGAR CUBED

We’ve got some exciting shoots planned in amazing locations in both Dublin and further afield. Our make-up artist Cara Macken has completed her Embrowdery course – we’re one of the only salons in the country doing this, and in Sugar Cubed, Amy Browne just completed her Acrylic and Gel Nail certification. Never a dull moment!

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21/8/14 14:15:03

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The BUSINESS EDIT technology

Power in numbers THE INTERNET IS BIG BUSINESS – as we’re constantly being told. But between 70 and 80 per cent of hair salons don’t have a website, meaning they’re missing out on the power of search engines and relying solely on loyal customers and their word of mouth. And while this used to be enough, nowadays we’re told that building an online presence – from a website to Facebook and Twitter communities – is more important than ever. But why? Aren’t customer loyalty and word of mouth enough? “Word of mouth is still the number one referrer,” believes Elaine Sullivan, co-owner of Aviary Lane in Dublin. “But what having an online presence does is it gives clients, who may have heard about you from a friend, an idea of who you are and what you’re about.” According to Richard Spence, founder of Beutifi.com, an online salon directory that allows potential customers to search by service within a specific area, avoiding the online space is a sure-fire way to lose out on potential clients. “We did a lot of research and found that the one complaint

Rising star Name: SHAUNA McGRATH Age: 22 Salon: HOUSE OF COLOUR

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Why did you want to be a hairdresser? My mother is a huge influence on me and I have a lot to thank her for. The minute I mentioned hairdressing she encouraged me to go for it – but what I didn’t tell her was it was the smell of hairspray in a local salon that got me hooked! And the girls who worked there seemed so fashionable and glamorous.

women had was that there was no place for them to search for salons in different parts of the country – say, for a wedding, an event or a hen party.” Elaine Sullivan says Aviary Lane’s online presence – the salon has active Facebook, Twitter and Instagram accounts – “puts us on new clients’ screens”. As her salon is “independent, there are no investors”, social media is an almost foolproof method of promotion. Bespoke Hairdressing in Northern Ireland prides itself on being at the forefront of technology – the Belfast-based salon has just launched an iPhone app. “The world is now so dependent on mobile technology and the services it can provide,” argues salon owner Stewart Lilley. “Clients are already able to book appointments with us through our website, so the app was a natural progression.” Bespoke Hairdressing isn’t the only one – De Stijl Hair Studio in Monkstown also has an app, which offers appointment booking, friend referrals and special offers. The general consensus? Whether you go it alone or opt for power in numbers, staying offline is no longer an option.

What have been your career highlights so far? Winning the bronze medal at the Wella TrendVision Award 2014 in Frankfurt for Ireland was mindblowing. Being named Creative Team leader at House of Colour, winning the Ireland Young Talent Trend Vision Award 2013, all of my wins at the Irish Hair Championships, and winning IHF Trainee of the Year. Wow!

Where do you see yourself in 10 years? I want to be in charge of training all of the future superstars at the House of Colour Creative Academy, teaching seminars in our international salons, still entering competitions and being the first person to win the Wella TrendVision Award three times!

Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:40:46

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Life lessons Dean Hickey director of De Stijl Hair Studio, Monkstown Listen, watch and listen again. Listen to those who are teaching you. As a trainee I was probably one of the worst – I thought I knew everything and wanted to run before I could walk. One employer even asked: “Are you sure you want do hairdressing?” That was a real eye-opener for me – I wanted to prove them wrong so I worked my socks off, listened to everything, watched every step the stylists took and applied myself. It paid off. Be professional in everything you do – from the moment a client steps in the door, during their time in the chair until the second they leave. Make them feel like a VIP. A lot of us take for granted how well we know our regulars, but don’t get complacent. You’re only as good as your last haircut. We occasionally need to dial the ego down a notch and remember this. In the days we’re in, people are looking for quality for their hard-earned cash. One slight mishap can cost you clients. People talk and they’re a walking billboard for you and the salon! Keep it simple. ‘Don’t try to reinvent the wheel’ is a phrase that was drilled into me. There is always a time where a new client walks into the salon and you want to make an impact – whether it’s a complete change or a corrective job. We want to make a difference, but you have to remember to give people what they want. Always think like a client. As we know, clients sitting in the salon are aware of everything that goes on around them. Imagine yourself in their position. Get in the mind-set of what a client is thinking and make it an experience that they’ll enjoy. Be confident. Believe in what you do and go with your instincts. Experience teaches you what direction to take. We all make mistakes, but it’s how you deal with them that counts. Confidence comes not only from your persona but also from your ability to adapt. Keep an open mind and don’t be afraid to push yourself out of your comfort zone. If you’re not confident a client won’t have faith in you. Doing hair is the easy part. At this stage, I can almost do hair with my eyes closed, but since opening my own business last year it’s been a lot of hard work. I’ve been in the industry almost 11 years and I’m learning more each and every day, pushing and motivating myself to keep the salon going. That’s a full-time job in itself.

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:44:25

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21/8/14 10:46:33

Shop The latest products, colours and services

Modern glamour The best modern looks are undone, easy and beautiful – which is what Schwarzkopf Professional’s new OSIS+ Glamination range is all about, providing amazing, styled hair that doesn’t look ‘done’. The products can be used in-salon or at home, for volume, smoothness, hold and shine – effortlessly!

RRP from E11.50 Call +44 (1)296 314000 schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

Make a stand

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Shine on ALFAPARF’s new Semí Dí Lino hairsprays, Illuminating Color Fix and Illuminating Volumizer, promise shine and hold like you’ve never seen. Color Fix ensures colour shines while being protected, and Volumizer combines a body-building with shimmer.

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Body beautiful

Instant colour Temporary, fashion-forward colour is one of the most talked about trends and now colourists can give clients a pop of pastel in a flash with Instamatic from Color Touch by Wella Professionals. The Matte Gloss service uses the five new Instamatic shades to achieve a diffused finish. We love Pink Dream...

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The latest release from Orofluido is the Volume Mousse, with argan, cyperus and linseed oils to moisturise hair and add shine, while also providing heat protection. The mousse promises long-lasting volume and body with a high-shine finish and hair you can still run your fingers through.

RRP E15 Call 01 886 9300 orofluido.com

Creative Head Ireland

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Help clients achieve that ‘my hair naturally looks this good’ smugness with Davines More Inside Texturizing Dust. The powder can be applied directly to the roots for added volume, or added to lengths for extra body.

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Moroccanoil’s new limited-edition collection offers the brand’s iconic treatment in 100ml as well as a handy travel-sized 25ml size, packaged up in a keepsake cylinder. Available in original and light formulas, it offers the perfect solution for clients looking to kill the frizz.

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Text(ure) me Perfect for creating textured, beachy styles with control, hold and definition, Joico Flex Control and Joico Matte Grip feature Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex, to leave hair looking gently tousled while repairing from the inside out.

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Thinning hair is a big concern for clients, which is where Nioxin’s take-home kits come in. After a salon service such as DERMA Scalp Renew Therapy, DENSITY Protect Therapy or DIAMETER Boost Therapy, clients can continue their journey to hair confidence at home.

For curls that won’t drop once you’ve left the salon, Revlon Professional Style Masters Wash & Shape Curly Shampoo and Conditioner promise to rehydrate hair, reducing frizz and producing soft and conditioned curls. And they’ll retain their shape thanks to the balm conditioner, which nourishes and strengthens hair.

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Curls world

21/8/14 10:47:54

e d i s n I story Hession Hairdressing Clontarf

Hession Hairdressing is an old name on the Dublin hairdressing scene, in business for more than 40 years, but for the fifth anniversary of its Clontarf premises, a makeover was in order. Architect John Kaye visited the salon over several busy Saturdays to get a feel for the clientele and what was needed, and then got to work creating a bright, airy design based on natural light. Overseen by owner Paul Hession, windows light up the front of the salon, while a glass roof makes optimal use of daylight throughout – and any artificial lighting in the space uses toneless diffusers to give a natural appearance, essential for seeing the real effect of any hair hues. For colours, the focus was on neutral tones with an emphasis on texture, manifested in acrylic textured wallpaper throughout. Sleek and stylish but still comfortable, we have a feeling this is one revamp that will stay the distance.

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FLOWER POWER

The signature shape of Salon Ambience’s Tulip chair is perfect for any salon looking to stand out and it offers comfort clients will remember. FROM €1,069.92 CALL ESS ON 061 212 028 salonambience.com

To see more great deals from Salon Ambience, check out the new brochure, free with this issue!

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:49:32

#CHedit Mid up-do with the stunnin g Pippa O’Conn or Ormon d

Pics from Michelle O’ Doherty’s cover shoot for Irish Tatler

Behind the scenes on a debs shoot for U magazine

In the frame

Matthew Feeney, from Aviary Lane in Dublin, gets snapping SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadirl

'60s gla mour for U magazine

Th e IM AGE Be st in Beauty Award s wit h Aoife O’G rady

Dragged up for a staff night out

My model for Wella Generation NOW

The bigger the hair, the closer to God for Sebast ian Cult

To-do list the hottest happenings this month and next…

September

Creative Head Ireland

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ON course PREEN director and Schwarzkopf Professional Business Awards Hall of Famer, Katherine Sweeney, will be running a two-day advanced cutting course in PREEN's Dame Street Dublin salon. Call 01 670 8080

October

FINAL CUT It’s the closing date for entrants to the ALFAPARF Fantastic Hairdresser Awards 2014, which will take place on 2 November in the DoubleTree by Hilton Hotel in Dublin. Tickets and details at xpertpro.ie

19 October

BTS selfie with Vogue Willia ms for Cocoa Brown ca mpaign

REFRESHER The IHF Training Hub at Citywest Hotel will play host to a series of inspiring speakers, from celebrity hairdresser Errol Douglas talking about how to grow your business to photoshoot tips from stylist Cyril Morgan. Call 056 883 3808 23

21/8/14 10:50:23

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:51:09

IT COULD BE YOU…

The Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards celebrates the best of the best, with 19 winners across 17 categories from customer service to technical excellence and beyond... Has 2014 been your best year yet? Have you excelled in terms of skill, expertise, customer service and overall client experience? Have you knocked the ball out of the park when it comes to social media? You could walk away a winner at the Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards next March – and they’re open to any salon in Ireland, regardless of which brands you use. The awards are designed to celebrate the nuts and bolts of the industry – the salon owners – with an emphasis on business acumen and excellence, an innovative attitude to the client experience and the importance of customer service and training. So if you feel as if you’ve gone above and beyond this year, think about the difference this prestigious award could make to your business – starting with invaluable press coverage, an impressive awards portfolio for potential investors, the ability to attract the best staff as well as raising your profile on a national level and impressing your peers. Will 2015 be your year to shine?

Creative Head Ireland

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21/8/14 10:51:23

AND THE CATEGORIES ARE… 26

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:52:04

Connaught/Dublin/ Customer Care Award Open to all salons. Delivering first-class customer service as second nature, all the small touches are Leinster/Munster/ considered, extra services and added value offered at every turn. If this sounds like your salon you Ulster/National could be our Customer Care award winner. Salon of the Year Is your salon simply the best? Have you Marketing Salon Award got everything from technical excellence, customer Open to all salons. Print, word of mouth, social media, whatever you do to market your salon, Schwarzkopf Professional wants to know about it!

Reception/ Front of House Award Open to all salons who can demonstrate that their reception team is the best around. Schwarzkopf Professional wants to know what makes them stand out from the crowd and just how they do it.

service, retail and out of salon activities down to a fine art? If so, these regional salon categories are your chance to shout loud and proud about what you do best. This category is open to anyone with up to five salons but the entry should be based on just one salon. Dublin Salon of the Year entries should be from any salon located in the county or city of Dublin only. The winners from each region are automatically put forward to compete against one another for the overall National Salon of the Year 2014 title.

Dublin/Leinster/ Salon Design Award Open to all salons that can show a stunning and Connacht/Munster/ unique salon interior. If your salon wows from the outside in, then this is the award for you. Ulster/National Trainee of the Year Training Award Got a shining star in the salon? Open to a salon that has a staff training strategy in place. If developing and educating your team is a focus and strength for your salon then impress the judges with your training excellence to be in with a chance of winning.

Opposite page: Last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s winners

Website of the Year Open to any salon with a website. At the first

stage of judging, five members of the public will be given the salon name and postal address, to see how easy the site is to find. For the second stage, judges will be given the web address to assess site content and user-friendliness.

That trainee whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s always up for the extra responsibility, looking for all opportunities, learning everything from everyone? Then encourage them to enter Trainee of the Year. Open to any trainee who has been in training for a minimum of 12 months and a maximum of four years up to the end of June 2014. The entry should be put together and submitted by the trainee themselves, but with the help and input of the salon owner/manager. You can enter more than one trainee per salon. The winners from each region are automatically put forward to compete against each other for the overall national trainee of the year 2014 title.

Schwarzkopf Retail Salon of the Year Open to any salon that stocks one or more

Schwarzkopf Professional retail lines and where the Schwarzkopf Professional products account for at least 50 per cent of total retail turnover.

Creative Head Ireland

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21/8/14 10:52:20

A HISTORY OF GREATNESS

Last yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hosts, former Irish rugby internationals Frankie Sheahan and Shane Horgan

The Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards have come a long way since the inaugural event in 2003, which had just six categories and a modest number of entries. Today, there are 19 winners across 17 categories â&#x20AC;&#x201C; allowing ample opportunity for your business to be noticed

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:52:34

Dylan Bradshaw Zeba Hairdressing

Niall Colgan

From the very first Schwarzkopf Professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards in 2003, both the standard and volume of entries has grown, with winners in a broad range of categories from salons all over the length and breadth of the country. Schwarzkopf Professional has even developed its Hall of Fame, recognising salons that have won the same category at least three times – resulting in an induction of seven entrants recognised as ‘the best of the best and practically unbeatable’, including industry heavyweights such as Dylan Bradshaw (Salon of the Year 2006, 2009 and 2011) and Zeba Hairdressing (Salon of the Year 2003, 2005, 2007 and 2012), among others. The Awards also prides itself on supporting Irish jobs – not only in recognising Irish-owned salons who are leading the way in the industry, but also employing only Irish companies to supply and support the awards, from the video production crew to the event management company and even the linen supplier! The 2014 event, which will take place in March 2015 at the RDS in Dublin, is set to be the biggest and best yet – so stand up and get noticed by entering your salon.

NIALL COLGAN HAIRDRESSING, LIMERICK SALON OF THE YEAR AWARD winner 2013

“We’re a relatively new business, so we entered because we wanted to raise our profile and show people that our service levels are very strong. Since winning, it’s made me look at my business and re-evaluate what we do. It encourages you to improve even after you win.”

The 2014 Schwarzkopf professional Irish Hairdressing Business Awards will be held on Sunday, 20 March 2015 at the RDS, Dublin. Details on how to purchase tickets will be announced in upcoming issues of Creative HEAD Ireland and online at ihbawards.ie Creative Head Ireland

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21/8/14 10:52:57

Scene clash

Fashion met hairdressing at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy in Dublin’s Convention Centre, where a ‘who’s who’ of Irish stylists gathered to anxiously await the results of months of preparation and witness a creative showcase by Alexandre de Paris and Ireland’s own L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists. Judging was in the hands of Daniel Galvin OBE, Trevor Sorbie MBE, Jason Miller, Alan Edwards, Andrew Mulvenna and Irish Tatler editor, Jessie Collins. Fighting off stiff competition, Wayne Lloyd Hair from Cork was this year’s L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner, with awards for Peter Mark College and Toni & Guy’s Aidan Darcy in the Men’s Image and Young Colourist categories respectively, and a tribute made to L’Oréal Professional’s Ivan Bishoff, who this year retires as commercial director after 44 years with the company. With a champagne reception, a ceremony hosted by Brendan Courtney and Sonya Lennon, and an afterparty that carried on to the small hours, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy was, as always, a party like no other.

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Alexandre de Paris

Culture

ID Artists

THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!

Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:54:37

ID Artists

Alexandre de Paris

The winners

L’Oréal Colour Trophy First Wayne Lloyd Hair, Bandon, Co. Cork (1) Second Leona Collins, Drogheda, Co. Louth (2) Third Style Club, Swords, Co. Dublin (3) Men’s Image Award First Peter Mark College, Dublin (4) Second The Academy Belle, Celbridge, Co. Kildare (5) Young Colourist Award Aidan Darcy, Toni & Guy, Clarendon St, Dublin 2 (6)

Creative Head Ireland

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21/8/14 10:55:37

Edward Darley and Bruce Masefield

Kings of the wild frontier

The Wild West has been a big source of inspiration for fashion houses this season – just look at Chanel’s ads featuring Kristen Stewart as a cornrow-wearing cowgirl – so it’s no surprise that the team at Vidal Sassoon took their inspiration from the American frontier for The Prairie, a creative showcase presented at the Mansion House in Dublin. The presentation was part of the Peter Mark training programme and was the largest show ever given in Dublin by the Sassoon team, which held court to a 300-strong audience and was led by UK creative director Bruce Masefield, and UK colour director Edward Darley. Four presentations were inspired by the majesty of the American West, from the arid deserts of Arizona to the wild open prairies and red raw earth of New Mexico. The audience left with the inspiration to create modern, striking looks inspired by a distinctly American heritage.

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:56:15

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Robert Cromeans Lucie Doughty

John Paul DeJoria

Takashi

Linda Yodice Stephanie Kocielski Creative Head Ireland

Meet me in

Las vegas We were unprepared for Paul Mitchell’s annual The Gathering 2014, not least because the flash floods meant we were sliding down The Strip in our flip-flops for the most part but also because, well, can you ever be fully prepared for one of the year’s biggest parties? The famous city of sin played host to about 3,500 hairdressers at the ARIA Resort and Casino for two days of networking and discovery. Last year, John Paul DeJoria, co-founder of John Paul Mitchel Systems, started the show by riding onto the stage on a motorbike. This year he flew over the audience, still atop his motorbike, attached to a harness. The show also saw Paul Mitchell’s global artistic director, Robert Cromeans, reveal the brand’s latest colour range, Ultimate Color Repair, before unveiling its newest innovation. The luxurious Marula Oil is the next big thing from Paul Mitchell, but it isn’t due to arrive on our shores until 2015 at least. The sun came out for the closing show on the second day, which saw Robert hover over the stage popping balloons, and stylists create incredible, colourful looks. “We wish you more than prosperity,” said John Paul as he closed the show. “We wish you peace, love and happiness.”

21/8/14 10:56:37

Style

heroes When you think about a sleek, straight finish or a bold wave, ghd can’t be too far behind – and with modernity in mind, Peter Mark Style Club in Dublin was the perfect backdrop for a day of education from the ghd team. Led by Jo Robertson, ghd’s head of Ireland and UK Education, 100 Peter Mark stylists were given a masterclass from the brand experts in how best to utilise ghd’s hair styling tools in their salons and on their clients. The tools of the day were ghd’s Aura and Eclipse models, the latest releases from the brand that specialises in remodelling hair – and after demonstrations on how each of the tools works from Jo, the stylists were given the opportunity to recreate their own look, with mentoring and advice from ghd experts. The aim of the day was to give stylists not only the skills and confidence to reproduce stunning finishes insalon, but the know-how to pass their newfound knowledge on to the rest of their teams.

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 10:57:01

your essential guide to the new season

r u n w a y

autumn winter 2 014

available now to download free on the Creative HEAD App

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To ensure you don’t miss out, visit your app store now and search ‘Creative HEAD’

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21/8/14 10:58:36

MEET THE TEAM

SAY HELLO TO AN INDUSTRY FIRST – SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S IRISH YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM (iYAT), A GROUP WITH THE TALENT AND POTENTIAL REQUIRED TO SURVIVE A YEAR OF INTENSIVE TRAINING

NAME: JOE O’BRIEN AGE: 23 SALON: URBAN HYPE, CO. WATERFORD Creative HEAD: What has been your career highlight so far? Joe O’Brien: It would be between being chosen to join iYAT or styling the hair on a shoot for Fashion One TV in the US. Through some friends I was approached by the team at Fashion One and they were really impressed by my portfolio. It was the first big thing I’d ever done so the pressure was massive, but I loved every minute of it. CH: Who is your hair icon? JO: Tim Hartley. I’ve always followed his work, but meeting him on our iYAT training day tripled my admiration! CH: What’s your favourite inspirational quotation? JO: “Fashions fade… style is eternal” – Yves Saint Laurent. CH: Can you tell us about a moment that changed your life? JO: Getting my first full-time job in a salon. Hair was something I always wanted to do, so I grasped every opportunity that came my way! CH: What’s your essential kit-bag item? JO: OSIS+ Sparkler Shine Spray. CH: What’s the best thing about being on the team? JO: We all come from different backgrounds, but we have one thing in common – a love of hairdressing.

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NAME: COURTNEY LYONS AGE: 21 SALON: NATURAL HAIR COMPANY and FAITH, LISBURN, NORTHERN IRELAND Creative HEAD: What has been your career highlight so far? Courtney Lyons: Getting on to iYAT and meeting Tim Hartley! CH: Who is your hair icon? CL: Patrick Cameron – I love his work. His up-dos are amazing and he has so much enthusiasm, it’s infectious. I went to see him live and his work was flawless but he made it look easy. I was really inspired. CH: What’s your favourite inspirational quotation? CL: “Don’t tell anyone you’re too young to do anything – a baby shark is still a shark!” – Anon. CH: Can you tell us about a moment that changed your life? CL: Starting work at Natural Hair Company. There are so many opportunities with them – I’m a better hairdresser for working there. CH: What’s your essential kit-bag item? CL: I absolutely love OSIS+ Upload. CH: What’s the best thing about being on the team? CL: We constantly learning from each other and we get on so well.

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

21/8/14 14:16:08

NAME: JESSICA MOULDS AGE: 23 SALON: NATURAL HAIR COMPANY and FAITH, LISBURN, NORTHERN IRELAND Creative HEAD: What has been your career highlight so far? Jessica Moulds: Getting on to the iYAT. I’d never entered anything like this before so to gain a place on the team feels like such a big achievement. CH: Who is your hair icon? JM: Vidal Sassoon. I love the structure and lines he created in his styles. He revolutionised hairdressing. CH: What’s your favourite inspirational quotation? JM: “A true artist wears it, talks it and breathes it” – Anon. That’s how I feel about hairdressing. CH: Can you tell us about a moment that changed your life? JM: Joining iYAT. I’ve gained so much experience in different areas and met so many new people. CH: What’s your essential kit-bag item? JM: Schwarzkopf Professional Blondme Colour Correction Spray in Cool-Ice. It keeps ash to platinum tones bright and prevents shades from turning brassy. CH: What’s the best thing about being on the team? JM: So many things – but most of all I love learning and meeting new people.

Creative Head Ireland

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NAME: COURTNEY McGALL AGE: 23 SALON: THE SITTING ROOM, BALLYMENA, NORTHERN IRELAND Creative HEAD: What has been your career highlight so far? Courtney McGall: Assisting my boss, Julian Dalrymple, on her awards collection shoots. To see our work on magazine covers has been amazing! CH: Who is your hair icon? CM: Tim Hartley – we spent a day with him a few weeks ago as part of our year of intensive training and he was just so inspiring! CH: What’s your favourite inspirational quotation? CM: “We are shaped and fashioned by what we love” – Goethe. CH: Can you tell us about a moment that changed your life? CM: Getting on to iYAT. CH: What’s your essential kit-bag item? CM: OSIS+ Dust It – I never leave home without it. CH: What’s the best thing about being on the team? CM: The opportunity to meet new people and learn from icons in the industry. It’s great to experience a different side of hairdressing, away from the salon floor.

21/8/14 11:00:00

THE BIG IDEA

Barber on a bike

Get mobile When Owen Crudge returned from an Australian sojourn late last year with six years’ experience as a barber, he had two choices: vie for a job with thousands of other hopefuls, or strike out on his own... and he launched Barber on a Bike in January: “I do a lot of cycling, so I decided it would be a cool way of starting a mobile service.” Owen says the majority of his appointments are in the evenings, when work is over and many salons have closed for the evening. As clients frequently struggle to make space – between work, lunch meetings and childcare – for their regular appointment, a to-your-door mobile service could make the difference between keeping or losing a loyal customer. The key is in thinking about what your client needs and how best to deliver it – by hook, by crook, or by bicycle.

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 11:00:49

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE Do you know how to:

Be inspired by Salon Owner, Motivator and President of the British Fellowship – Errol Douglas MBE

Ir i

sh H

ti a r e d

Create, build and grow a successful award winning Brand Name Build a unique team

airdressers Fe

AIDAN FITZGERALD Learn the do’s and don’t’s from someone with 30 years experience in business.. NERA Presentation by NERA (National Employment Rights Authority) on: Rights and entitlements of employers and employees under legislation Holiday entitlements Public Holiday entitlements Terms and Conditions of employment Providing Pay slips And lots more……etc HEALTH & SAFETY AUTHORITY Are you aware of what your obligations are as an employer under Health & Safety legislation.FREE online service by HSA – learn more at the IHF Training Hub.

CYRIL MORGAN - SHOOT FOR THE STARS Producing looks that get your salon noticed. One of the industries leading Stylists and Salon Groups - Cyril Morgan of the Hugh Campbell group shares his experience of producing award winning photographs and what they can do for your business.

LOCATION AND DATE: CITY WEST HOTEL, DUBLIN, SUNDAY 19th OCTOBER 2014 One Day Pass – €100 Early Bird price if you book before 10th October is €80. Book early to avoid disappointment – contact the IHF

Office on 0866995003 or 056-8833808 or email secretary@irishhairfed.com

Images by: Marta Plechowska Photography by: Kestutis Anuzis

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Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 11:03:32

Hair: Yesmin Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Brien for Balmain Paris Hair Couture. Styling: Kate Jeffery. Make-up: Elizabeth Rita. Photography: Barry Jeffery.

EXTENSIONS

In fine company Extensions offer a boost to business - both literally and figuratively. Want to identify the growth potential? Let the experts help...

Creative Head Ireland

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21/8/14 11:03:52

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for a full head; with between E300 and E400 labour costs on top of that, it’s not difficult to see where the increase in revenue is coming from – and these figures can multiply exponentially if you have a busy extensions business. At Dublin hair salon Cowboys & Angels, co-owner Valerie Patterson has been fitting hair extensions for 28 years and business is booming. “We see between 10 and 20 people a week for extensions – anything from full heads to a row to thicken hair. We do a lot of enhancements, and a lot of older clients looking for fuller hair. It’s not all just young women who want to look like Rosanna Davison.” Hair extensions specialist Pamela Laird agrees; the extensions customer isn’t always who you’d think. “It might be the older woman who wants a bit of volume or someone with unruly and curly hair who wants to get wavy extensions.” Hession Hairdressing, which has salons in Drumcondra and Clontarf in Dublin, has been quick to react to the growing trend for extensions. Amy Grimes is the extensions specialist in Drumcondra, while there is another dedicated specialist based in Clontarf. “I did my training with Cinderella Hair Extensions,” says Amy. “The course cost about E2,000 – but it was definitely worth it. Extensions range in price from E250 to E1,000 – it can be more profitable than anything else in the salon, especially if you have a few people doing them.” And, says

A stylist using Beauty Works

For the majority of Irish women, fine hair is a major concern – they want to see their locks given a boost, to achieve the kind of volume they dream of. Hair extensions can provide the answer, as well as a very real increase to your salon’s turnover. The extensions market has grown in terms of offerings – rings, tapes, bonds and weaves – and potential customers, which means there really is an extensions solution for every client’s hair complaint. According to figures from the Central Statistics Office, Ireland imports E1.6 million-worth of human hair – while the UK imports £15 million-worth a year, making women at home and across the Irish Sea some of the world’s most avid consumers of extensions. So what are you doing to ensure your piece of that action? While extensions are a brilliant problem-solver for clients, they require investment – both care and money – to look great for longer. Clients might love the idea of extensions, but could need some encouragement. How can you entice them to take the plunge? If you’re keen to maximise the potential on an extensions business, it’s vital that you can credibly market your salon as extensions experts, so training is a necessary expense. There are affordable courses on offer – Hairspray provides courses from E295 that include deluxe application kits to take back to the salon, while Heavenly Hair offers a dual course in microbead and prebond extensions for E490. With prices for an extensions service running in the three figures, any education spend will soon be recouped. “Our courses start at E349,” says Onagh O’Driscoll, managing director of Platinum Human Hair, a wholesaler, distributor and training provider that supplies more than 250 salons around Ireland. “That includes two methods of pre-bond and microbead application and it also includes your full start-up kit.” Could developing a hair extension specialist or even a small team of specialists provide the extra revenue you need? According to O’Driscoll, offering hair extensions in salon – based on one full head of extensions per day, five days a week – can increase your business’s profits by up to E80,000 a year. Platinum Hair extensions will cost your salon between E100 and E125

Extensions service checklist Pete Statham, sales manager for Balmain Hair, shares his top tips

● Select a reputable extensions company offering high-quality products, accredited education and written guarantees on all products. ● Depending on size of salon, select two or three staff to specialise in extensions, and include the salon owner. This will enable them to establish the dos and don’ts. ● Promote the service throughout the salon. Ensure team members are wearing extensions to illustrate colour, volume and length. ● Ensure services are on all price lists and menu cards, under relevant headings (eg as a solution for every day hair problems). Do not write ‘hair extensions on application’ – it can alienate many clients who think extensions are just for length. ● Encourage the team to talk with clients about the service and suggest change and solutions to problems, rather than waiting to be asked. ● Aftercare is vital – make sure the client understands the relevance and share details on all the products you have, and always offer a follow-up appointment three weeks after application.

Creative Head Ireland

21/8/14 15:57:03

Remi Cachet

#Extensions

Amy, extensions customers are more loyal customers – in the Drumcondra salon, she sees about 20 people a month to fit extensions, “and another 20 coming back for blow-drys, trims and to have their colour touched up. The client wouldn’t get the finish themselves that we’d get in the salon, so a lot of clients would be back every week or every fortnight.” Social media has done a lot of organic PR for hair extensions – and it’s a great way to talk about the transformations you can create with existing and potential clients. “The social media aspect means we all know

what celebrity hairdressers are doing for their clients,” says Pamela Laird. “We all know the secrets now.” Once you’ve got the salon shouting about it and your experts in place, you’ll soon see the money coming in. According to Penny Etheridge, founder of Radiant Hair Consultancy, extensions are no fad. “One market that continues to go from strength to strength is the hair extension business,” she explains. “The extensions industry is booming; hair extensions company Great Lengths reported a staggering 70 per cent growth in the past five years. What really interests me is the loyalty of clients to a salon. Once they find a stylist that does their extensions the way they like, they really do stay.” “I promote the idea that ‘you will make more money putting one extension in 100 clients, than by applying 100 extensions in one client’,” agrees Jack Cunning, a master educator for Balmain Hair. “Adding length is great for the wow factor, but realistically most clients only ask for thickness and volume. I find discussing small applications of added hair with existing clients is a great way of getting them hooked.” When considering the revenue stream from extensions, think of it as roughly double the cost of the initial outlay for hair. “The market has a diverse range of extension suppliers for stylists to work with, but the prices to clients vary depending on factors including geography, the salon kudos and stylists’ skills,” explains Victoria Lynch, founder of extension company Remi Cachet. “But the key to making this profitable lies in getting your initial pricing structure right and building in loyalty.” Many consumers may have outdated ideas of extensions and their application that are putting them off – it’s wise to keep them in the loop on innovations and new techniques. “The days of suggesting that extensions are bad for your hair are gone,” says Pamela Laird. “There are amazing brands and new technologies.” At Cowboys & Angels, a full head of extensions takes Valeria Patterson around two hours, “with another hour for a blow-dry” – so the idea of spending eight hours in the chair as a team of stylists buzz around you is consigned to history, too. And the opportunity to boost the bottom line doesn’t stop once those extensions have been secured to your client’s hair. A schedule of regular maintenance checks should be planned, which in turn encourages repeat appointments. Add to that an aftercare range specifically for extensions, and there’s more opportunity to grow your retail and increase the overall bill.

Creative Head Ireland

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How to make… E204

How to make… E335

How to make… E355

Service: short-term commitment for wedding hair Type: Weft hair extensions How long it lasts: eight weeks Retail salon price: E283 Trade price: E158 Application cost: E125 Maintenance appointment: eight to 10 weeks

Service: half-head for thickness and body Type: micro ring application How long it lasts: two to three months Retail salon price: E300 Trade price: E165 Application cost: E250 Maintenance appointment: six to eight weeks

Service: full head ombre hair extensions Type: pre-bonded application How long it lasts: three months Retail salon price: E375 Trade price: E207 Application cost: E250 Maintenance appointment: six to eight weeks

With thanks to Beauty Works

How to grow your profits

21/8/14 15:59:05

GREA T HEIGH T S The future is bright and shape is key in this avant-garde collection by House of Colour that juxtaposes volume, soft textures and fluoro shades

Photography by Mark Talbot

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21/8/14 11:07:24

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21/8/14 11:07:47

Hair House of Colour. Styling Courtney Smith. Make-up Lisa Roe.

Taking inspiration from the ambiguity of androgyny, Charles Worthington and his team challenge styling conventions in the ONE collection

Neutral Photography by Benn Healy

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21/8/14 11:08:03

Hair Charles Worthington and Marc Trinder. Make-up Yuko Fredriksson.

ground

See more from this shoot at creativeheadmag.com

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21/8/14 11:08:17

FINDING A VOICE

IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET CLIENT AND TALK TO THEM, NOT AT THEM, SAYS KIERAN MURPHY IN THE BEAUTY industry, great social media content is a combination of teaser offers, professional advice and inspiring images. Done right, this will add great credibility to your business and you will start a digital conversation from your efforts. If someone walks in and says ‘I saw an up-style you posted on Facebook and I want the same thing’, you know you’re doing a great job. So how do you do that? Think about your target customer – not even the target market. It might be a 28-year-old professional female. She has a busy lifestyle, a social butterfly who takes pride in her appearance and so on. When you identify exactly who this person is, it becomes a lot easier to develop the ‘voice’ that you should use on your page. A big mistake some salons make on their social media is talking ‘at’ their followers rather than ‘to’ them. It is so important that your social media presence be consistent. Don’t use it as a personal blog – you’re posting as the business and not as yourself. There are some great tools

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that allow you to schedule your posts (Buffer is my favourite) and this will allow you to post when your target market is online. As a rule, 7am and 7pm are great times. After all, how many of you wake up and hit the Facebook icon on your iPhone – right after you cancel that alarm? Don’t obsess about huge followings. Thousands of users from all over the country are not very useful if you’re a salon in Clontarf. You want followers that you can ultimately convert into paying customers, so don’t cheapen your brand by running competitions encouraging disloyal people to follow you. No one likes spending money on social media, but an engaged following on Facebook can become the champions of your brand. It’s worth loosening the purse strings a little and making sure your brand is in the eyes of the people you want. You can promote your page to specific genders and ages as well as geographical areas – Facebook has great guidelines on how to set up advertising. Set aside 200 or so and spend it over a few weeks. You should be able to acquire a follower for about 0.40 per person, so it is very affordable. Finally, manage your expectations! Facebook used to say your posts would organically reach about 16 per cent of your fan base, but now this is closer to 4 per cent. The more engaged your fans are, the more likely they are to share content. Facebook is a powerful tool for promoting your business, but to get the most out of it you need a marketing budget. None of the good things in life are free! Kieran Murphy is co-founder of WhatSalon and National Beauty

CREATIVE HEAD IRELAND

21/8/14 14:21:03

The ultimate

VOLUMIZING hair & scalp regime

FOR FINE, THINNING HAIR Available in salons nationwide www.essentialsalon.ie | Tel: 061 212 028

Available from Essential Salon Supplies 061-212-028 | www.essentialsalon.ie

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11/08/2014 16:09:52