In print•online•everywhere!
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DISHEVELED NUDES BY
s ne o T e d Nu
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DISHEVELED NUDES BY
IGORA #RoyalTakeOver – D isheveled Nudes by Matt Clements & Jorge Cáncer – A soft yet edgy take on Nude Tones – 6 subtle and disruptive shades from powdery blondes & pastels to darker, shadowy tones
www.schwarzkopfpro.com
F E E D YO U R C O LO R
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NEW Satisfy your color obsession and take your creativity even further with Nutri Color™ Creme. With a palette as limitless as your imagination, it delivers the color you want with the care you need. Now, 2 new cold shades: refresh, tone and multiply the creative possibilities of the latest fantasy trends. Anything and everything is possible with the Nutri Color™ Creme 3 in 1 cocktail of color, care and shine.
FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 · CUSTOMERSERVICEUK@REVLON.COM IRELAND: 018869300 · CUSTOMERSERVICEIRE@REVLON.COM REVLONPROFESSIONALUK
REVEALING BEAUTY
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S E S S I O N SALON TO
SINCE 1959
With BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range you can create any look from session to salon. Our wands combine premium titanium with an advanced heating system to give consistent, even heat that you can rely on for a perfect finish. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
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Editor’s letter
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This issue sees me celebrating 10 years at Creative HEAD, and while time’s flashed past, this industry and the world in which it sits has changed dramatically (as has my hair colour, on numerous occasions). Social media has transformed the way hairdressers can share their work, build their profiles and attract clients – in 2018, do we really need obscenely expensive and overly retouched shoots that fail to appeal to the consumers putting money in the till? It’s a subject I’ve railed against before, but the trusty iPhone now levels the playing field when it comes to producing impactful images, as DNA ARTSPACE founders Angelo Vallillo and Dale Herne illustrate on p84. Will you take up their challenge and get snapping with your phone? If so, we’ll share your work. It’s also a joy to see names from my early days evolve and grow. I remember being on a shoot with Jody Taylor when he was a member of the Toni&Guy Art Team – now he’s launching his own collection of men’s grooming products… and sharing the story with Mr. Q, exclusively. Thank you to everyone who, over the past decade, has put their trust and faith in me and Creative HEAD to share their work and their stories with their peers. I couldn’t do this job without you…
Amanda Nottage Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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creativeheadmagofficial
‘Taking Control of Business’ was the theme marking our annual Salon Smart event and you turned out in force to hear speakers including Sam McKnight, Brooks & Brooks and Larry King. Head online for more! Free up 16 April in your diary as The Coterie will be making its Manchester debut. Jayson Gray AKA Karbon Kyd and Bruce Masefield will shed a light on building brand YOU. Then, The Coterie: In Session returns on 31 May, seeing Most Wanted Hair Trend winner Sam Burnett and It Girl Rebecca Chang whipping up a styling storm – head to page 66 for more. Finally, don’t forget the Most Wanted and The It List Awards 2018 are in full swing, get all the info from page 42.
@creativeheadmag
22/03/2018 12:20
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April WHAT’S INSIDE 54
ON THE COVER
THE ART OF WELLBEING TAYLOR MADE
How salons can help clients achieve a sense of calm away from their busy lives
Jody Taylor reveals why now is the time for his new product line
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Hair by Jorge Càncer, Thomas Bennike and Jose Luis Almendral representing X-Presion for Schwarzkopf Professional
SIDE FREE IN
TERLY MISTER QUAR
SCENE
See the best of the American Crew All Star Challenge
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
DEPUTY EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
ALISON ROWLEY
ART DIRECTOR
ADVERTISING
JENNY LE
ART
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
JOANNA ANDERSEN
AMANDA NOTTAGE BETH DAVIE
NICK JABBAL GRAEME WHITE
ADAM WOOD
ANNA SAMSON LAURA TUCKER DAVID HAMMOND
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
DIGITAL DESIGNER EVA VESTMANN
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Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
22/03/2018 12:21
A multi-perfecting wonder spray that does it all!
Joico Laboratories Europe B.V. | Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond | The Netherlands | Hair & Color: JOICO Artists
NEW
K-PAK COLOR THERAPY LUSTER LOCK MULTI-PERFECTOR The key to healthy fairytale hair – every day For more information call 0845 071 2326
WWW.JOICOEUROPE.COM #joicoeurope
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06/03/18 09:03
MEET OUR APRIL FEATURED ARTIST!
Barber and founder of the Lions Barber Collective, Tom Chapman, lets us into his world as this month’s Featured Artist – only on Creative HEAD Education. Visit creativeheadmag.com/education
Mark Leeson Mr Sam Wall
David Rae
Mark Leeson
THE VAT THRESHOLD could soon become tiered, easing the burden for smaller salons, Chancellor of the Exchequer Philip Hammond has said in his first Spring Statement to Parliament. On VAT, the Chancellor is launching a consultation to get views on how to ease the VAT burden for small businesses once they reach the £85,000 threshold. At present, if their turnover goes over £85,000 by just £1, then businesses are liable to 20 per cent VAT on the full amount. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said: “The NHF has been campaigning hard for government action on VAT. We have been calling for tiered rates, which would introduce VAT in smaller steps, removing this ‘cliff edge’ once a salon or barber shop reaches the VAT threshold. We would like to see the government go further, for example reducing the rate of VAT for hairdressing, similar to other European countries.”
David Rae
VAT BURDEN ‘SET TO EASE’ FOR SMALL BUSINESSES
David Rae
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
Mark Leeson
The edit
Everyone’s a
winner!
CONGRATULATIONS TO DAVID RAE, who has been revealed as the 2018 Revlon Professional Style Masters UK champion. He now has to wait and see if he will become one of the lucky nine finalists to get through to the Global Style Masters event, which takes place in Barcelona on 4 June. Mr Sam Wall is also celebrating finally winning the UK final of the American Crew All-Star Challenge on his seventh attempt. Based at Hidden Heights Creative Studio in Gateshead, Sam also finds out this month if he will make the International Final, held alongside Style Masters in Barcelona. Global finalists will be revealed on 15 April. Congratulations are also due to Mark Leeson, who has been named the winner of the AIPP Grand Trophy 2017-2018. The annual AIPP AWARDS honour the best international hair fashion collections, chosen by a jury of publishers associated with the AIPP (International Association of Professional Hairdressing Magazines). Mark initially won the Best Photography Award, and he was invited to submit his latest collection, ‘Dis-Tinction’, to the final stage of the event, which sees winners from each category compete to be crowned the winner of the ultimate prize. Curls and waves have never been so lusted-after, which is why we’re crazy about Schwarzkopf Professional’s first holistic care and styling range dedicated to textured hair, Mad About Curls & Waves. The range is infused with an Aquarine Complex to strengthen the hair, moisturise and provide heat protection.
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Don’t imitate. Create
Dual colour system for all colour results, permanent or demi-permanent find your stockist at: fudgeprofessional.com
fudgehair
#CHedit MY month
AHEAD What April has in store for...
ANDREW MULVENNA
ANDREW MULVENNA HAIR
RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL CELEBRATES TEAM SUCCESS
Scottish salon chain Rainbow Room International celebrated its top talent at its 29th Annual Congress. Diana Carson, from the Uddingston salon, was awarded Fantastic Hairdresser of the Year, while Great Western Road salon (pictured above, left) scooped Salon Team of the Year and Alijah Nerheim, from RRI’s Bearsden salon, took home the Creative Image Award. The RRI Art Team was also on hand to deliver its punk-edged presentation (pictured above, right). The awards were held at Airth Castle Hotel and Spa as part of a larger event where team members from RRI’s 12 salons enjoyed a day of presentations and challenges. RRI owner, Alan Stewart, said: “It’s a wonderful event and really builds team spirit.”
Balmain Hair and ghd join bgx partnership SOFTWARE SERVICE blowout&go has launched bgx in London in partnership with ghd, Uber and Balmain Paris Hair Couture, to connect stylists directly to consumers. The new beauty platform, which has already launched in Dubai, allows clients to book a blow-dry with a top local stylist at a moment’s notice via the bgx app. The app looks for salon stylists within a one-mile radius of the client who are available and can come to them quickly. Nick Higgins, UK & Ireland managing director of ghd, said: “bgx is an exciting new concept to launch within the industry and we welcome ghd professional tools being used by bgx partners.” “We have years of experience styling across locations, so it fits our brand to support this on a large scale,” added Paul Reilly, UK managing director of Balmain Paris Hair Couture.
NEÄL & WØLF AND CREATIVE HEAD LAUNCH 2018 TIME TO SHINE AWARD CALLING ALL YOUNG STYLISTS AND BARBERS! NEÄL & WØLF HAS LAUNCHED ITS TIME TO SHINE AWARD, IN PARTNERSHIP WITH CREATIVE HEAD
Now in its third year, the competition aims to shine a spotlight on ambitious young stylists keen to show the world what they can do and be crowned Neäl & Wølf’s Shining Star of 2018. The competition runs from now until 16 September, with monthly winners chosen from social media entries. Each winner gets to attend a Neäl & Wølf training course, while the overall winner and two runners-up will have their work featured in this magazine, as well as win a year’s subscription to Creative HEAD Club. Turn to page 39 for more details on how to enter the competition.
Straight after attending Salon Smart I’ll be entering ‘Operation Launch’ mode. The past 12 months (10 years, in fact) have been building towards this month when the salon moves to a beautiful new building, an old Victorian Bank in Belfast. I’m also judging the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional SemiFinals, and training my team before the new salon opens.
JONATHAN SOONS HEADMASTERS
I’m just about to do a shoot with blogger Really Ree along with Headmasters and Little Light PR, especially for social media. I’m then off to India with Headmasters colour ambassador Siobhan Jones, where we will be teaching students the latest cuts, colour and styling. We are also in the midst of prepping our two big collections for the year.
56% The amount of women who have visited a barber shop at least once in the past two years, according to a survey carried out by The Bluebeard’s Revenge. The study claimed the rise was attributable to more women seeking shorter, sharper styles. CATCH UP with our men’s grooming magazine, free in this issue at page 66.
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GREAT BROWS NEVER GO OUT OF STYLE. WE NEED YOU TO MEET DEMAND. Train in the UK’s no.1 brow treatment exclusively in Leeds, Milton Keynes, Liverpool, Bristol, London and Glasgow.
JOIN THE HD BROWS REVOLUTION 0113 224 7914
HDBROWS.COM info@hdbrows.com
Goldwell’s @Pure Pigments is the result of years of research with Fujifilm; brilliant, ultra-shiny results in six concentrated colours.
Decologic is a range of lightening marvels created by milk_shake, so you have a solution for every sunny shade. We love the Clay Balayage Lightener and the gentle, eight-shade Tone Controller.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01392 365177
IN-SALON SERVICE 01323 432100
milkshakehair.co.uk
goldwell.com
Health-focused clients love a good detox, so get their scalps in on the act with the Opus Magnum Salt Scrub Cleanse from Urban Alchemy.
RRP £19.95 0333 2412995 urban-alchemy.com
Let’s cool things down with new Iridescent Grey and Blue shades from Revlon Professional’s YouTube favourite, Nutri Color Creme.
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.com
Television Perfect Hair Shampoo and Conditioner from R+Co promises everything small screen hair demands – body, shine, strength and high ratings…
RRP FROM £27 01442 248104
Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
Ooh, we love a good multi-tasker clients feel they’re getting more bang for their salon buck. So, tell those in your chair about new K Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock Multi-Perfector from JOICO. Why? Because it’s a wonder spray for healthy hair. This is a daily shine and repair bi-phase spray that fuses the hydrating benefits of exotic oils with a unique damage control formula, and locks in vibrancy and moisture, while fighting any fade and damage without weighing hair down. You just shake it to wake it, and spray onto damp hair. If only everything in life worked that well… RRP £15.25 0845 0712326 joicoeurope.com
randco.com
The mousse is loose, thanks to these fun friends from Rusk – it’s all about creating commitment-free colour in a flash.
RRP £15 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
New to Tea Tree Scalp Care, the Anti-Thinning Root Lift Foam plumps strands for thicker, fuller looking hair, due to its Regeniplex Botanical Blend that includes turmeric and ginseng.
RRP £17.95
The Igora #RoyalTakeOver continues with its range of Disheveled Nudes and its incredible new Pastelfier, a creative booster to lift and dilute.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 526741 schwarzkopf-professional.com
Feel the need for speed? The Vented Speed collection from Wet Brush makes quick work of drying time with its volumeboosting nylon bristles and its aero technology design.
RRP FROM £21.99 0800 0988040 prowetbrush.com
0845 659 0011 paul-mitchell.co.uk 22
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#CHedit
STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS From magazine editorials to catwalk shows, natural texture is riding a wave of popularity right now – and that’s something clients can really embrace. It’s about individual style rather than conforming to perfection, and Aura Botanica from Kérastase has that nailed with its new styling launches. Eau de Vagues delivers that adored beachy wave with sugar not salt, while Lait de Soie is both an air-dry and blow-dry milk for frizz-free hair. The murumuru butterrich Crème de Boucles is a luxurious curl defining cream that sounds good enough to eat. When the styling fun is done and it’s time to wash, there’s new Bain Micellaire Riche, a rich formula of the original micellar shampoo that’s wonderfully nourishing for dry or sensitive hair, perfect for any colour lovers. And with most of the formulations boasting 98 per cent natural origins, clients will feel good, too.
RRP FROM £22.10 0845 6000122 kerastase.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... BONDING 2.0 For clients enjoying ASP’s Vitaplex system – the Biomimetic Hair Treatment that helps rebuild damaged hair – there’s now a take-home After Care Kit to keep up the good work for longer
CREATIVE HEAD
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Innoluxe V2 makes hair super-strong, thanks to the addition of amino acid cystine and low-weight proteins in its Aminobond Complex. Clients will love leave-in conditioner Elixir V2, which strengthens hair as it’s blow-dried.
RRP £31.96 01794 527111
IN-SALON SERVICE; ELIXIR RRP £25 0330 0882226
asphair.com
innoluxe.com
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R U YO ITH T S SW O BO INES S BU
£10,000
THAT’S HOW MUCH ZUNI HAIRDRESSING IN BELFAST HAS MADE IN SALES IN THE PAST YEAR JUST FROM SMARTBOND, THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE TEAM HAS ALREADY SOLD MORE THAN 1,000 APPLICATIONS – SO JUST IMAGINE WHAT SMARTBOND CAN DO FOR YOU! ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO USE IT WHEN THEY HAVE THEIR HAIR COLOURED SO THAT THEY CAN ENJOY STRONG AND PROTECTED HAIR! SUZAN MANNING SHARES ZUNI HAIRDRESSING’S TOP TIPS ON HOW TO SELL SMARTBOND IN-SALON…
1 Hold a ‘playtime’ night to educate staff – use Smartbond on them and on some selected models. We found that the best way to educate is to let them use it on their own hair and see the results themselves. None of our team would dream of having a colour without Smartbond in it now! 2 Obviously Smartbond is great for blonde clients, but brunettes will love it just as much. Talk to your brunette clients about how it can improve the longevity of their tone and ramp up the shine!
3 Describe Smartbond as a three-phase treatment – the additive in the colour, the lock-in conditioner at the backwash and the conditioner to take home. When the client feels their hair following the treatment, they always buy the conditioner!
THE FIX
Take a look at this beautiful transformation created by @simonwebsterhair using new Instant Highlights and #COLORFULHAIR. Follow these steps to recreate it: STEP 1: Lighten up to 15 meches using Instant Highlights then rinse and pre-tone the lightened pieces with 10.22 Dialight + 6vol. Step 2: Rinse and tone with two mixes. Mix 1: #COLORFULHAIR ¾ Electric Purple + ¼ Crystal Clear. Mix 2: ¾ Crystal Clear + ¼ Electric Purple. Step 3: Take through ¾ Crystal Clear + ¼ Electric Purple at the back wash. Use Smartbond throughout. Share your transformations using @lorealpro #lorealprouk #colorfulhair #instanthighlights #smartbond 24
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RETAIL REHAB Made with a blend of precious argan oil, Mythic Oil Original and Mythic Oil Colour Glow are the perfect complement to any colour. Use before styling for a smooth, sleek and shiny result.
CREATIVE HEAD
19/03/2018 15:51
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Be a
COLOUR ADDICT
N UNETTES TO UNICOR FROM BEAUTIFUL BR TH WI 18 20 IN DICTED TO COLOUR DREAMERS, GET AD
#COLORFULHAIR The colour pop trend is going nowhere: we’ve seen pink hair shoot back to the top of the agenda and our Instagram feeds are glowing with new violet shades. Now with all new Instant Highlights it’s so easy to add some fashion lights to frame the face or add a sneaky pop of colour to the lengths. Simply pre-lighten with Instant Highlights and tone with your customised #COLORFULHAIR shade.
DO THIS
NOW
1)
Find out more about getting the 11 #COLORFULHAIR shades and your Instant Highlights toolkit by calling 0845 0304034 or visiting lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
2)
Start getting creative with the shades and build an in-salon menu of your colourful services. Remember to take photographs of the looks that you craft and write down your bespoke mixes to recreate the look time and time again. Don’t forget to add a colour pop service to your Instant Highlights menu.
3)
Inspire your clients by showcasing your artistic work – post your transformations on social media, and remember to include @lorealpro #colorfulhair #instanthighlights #smartbond #lorealprouk
*May vary depending on the type of shade/effect chosen, colour depth and porosity of the hair fibre
The days are finally getting longer as we bounce into spring, and we’re excited to see you create fresh new looks to celebrate the end of winter! And what better way to get that spring in your clients’ step than a pop of colour? The #COLORFULHAIR range from L’Oréal Professionnel gives you the option of adding a fun dimension to balayage or babylights, while more daring clients will undoubtedly get addicted to the palette of 10 vibrant shades (plus Crystal Clear for pastel lovers). And just like make-up, #COLORFULHAIR is low commitment, lasting up to 15 washes,* so now there’s no excuse not to get creative!
Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk or call 0800 0304034 CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
R I S I N G S TA R
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I think my love of hairdressing originally stemmed from my dad. He always braided my hair for school or styled it in a bun for ballet. This led to me practising daily on my five sisters! I was lucky enough to receive two weeks of work experience at Hensmans when I was at school, which is where it all started. Then I became a Saturday girl, and then an apprentice. I love being able to express my creativity throughout my work, whether I have a challenge on my hands for a creative colour or I’m restyling hair for a cut and finish.
FABIA BRUCE AGE: 18 SALON: HENSMANS
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I’ve had many! My first came about when I was an apprentice – I was involved in a team photoshoot and my work was published in trade magazines. Another highlight was being nominated for the NHF Apprentice of the Year award in 2017. I also got the opportunity to assist Debbie G and her team last year. But the biggest highlight so far has to be getting onto the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team for 2018! WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS? I would love to have been successful in more competitions. Also, I would love to go into training, so I can teach creative courses… and potentially manage a salon somewhere in-between! WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? To style and/or colour hair for major brands in the fashion and hair industry. Being able to create looks for London Fashion Week would be a dream come true.
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NEW SAHARAN GOLD
collectio n
Indulge in saharan gold; a luxe range of limited edition stylers & dryers with a golden metallic makeover. For more information and to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400.
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01/03/2018 09:28
#CHedit
Inside story HIVE MCR MANCHESTER
Founder Patrick Marrow had an idea: to create a salon that would be a social environment where you could also get your hair done. He was surprised that the city was lacking in ‘fun’ salons, with plenty of ‘silver service’ high end options. Enter Hive MCR. After the Manchester Arena bombing in 2017, Patrick was keen to pay homage to the sense of community in the city with the salon logo, designed by friend Jake Ivill, a take on the MCR Bee, a symbol that encapsulates the ‘worker bee’ mentality the city became associated with. There’s a distinctly modern, industrial feel to it, but it’s also welcoming and relaxing, and plenty of yellow accents that hark back to the iconic Haçienda club, which was a few hundred yards down the road. While chairs and backwashes are from Takara Belmont, the reception desk and shelving are custom-made, thanks to Clamped Steel, found via Etsy. Patrick’s favourite element – and undoubtedly a talking point with clients – is the neon sign by Custom Neon, a focal point for all those selfies. It’s undoubtedly caused quite the buzz...
HOT BUYS
now open
TOGETHER FOREVER
Meld the coldness of steel and the warmth of wood and you’ll have Fusion, an elegant work unit from Salon Ambience that includes a built-in hair dryer holder and footrest. PROMOTIONAL PRICE £659 (USUALLY £1,249) 07554 990965 salonambience.com
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THE GUNMAKERS CLERKENWELL A 19th century public house, the attic has been transformed into the Gun Club hair studio with its very own bar.
CREATIVE HEAD
22/03/2018 12:25
? D E R E V O C U O Y E AR INSURANCE IS A SALON MUST-HAVE. THE NHF REVEALS WHAT COVER YOU NEED TO PROTECT YOUR CLIENTS, YOUR STAFF AND YOUR BUSINESS
WHEN YOU FIRST thought about requirement, public liability insurance opening your salon, you most likely protects you if a member of the considered the kind of business you public is injured or has their property wanted your salon to be, what it would damaged because of your business. look like and the location. Make sure your policy covers all Insurance probably wasn’t the the services or treatments offered in first thing that sprang to mind, but your salon. it is vital – no matter how small your business is. COLOUR TESTING For starters, the law says that if you Don’t want to do a patch test every employ at least one person you must time you do a colour? The NHF’s have employers’ liability insurance. allergy alert test records help your This should cover your legal and colourists decide when a patch test compensation bills if an employee at is needed. It’s free to members and your salon is injured or becomes ill fully backed by Coversure, the NHF’s because of the work they do for you. preferred insurer. And never agree If you don’t have it, you are breaking to client disclaimers as they wouldn’t the law and can be fined £2,500 for stand up in court and you would each day you don’t have it. still be liable. You can also be fined £1,000 Finally, ask your if you do not display the JOIN THE NHF provider about insurance certificate. insurance for buildings BY 30 APRIL AND and contents, personal, QUOTE CHA25 TO PEACE OF MIND accident and illness, GET £25 OFF YOUR Another thing to consider employee fraud MEMBERSHIP FEE! is public liability insurance. or theft, business Although not a legal interruption and flooding.
HOW THE NHF CAN HELP YOU The NHF offers a range of business support services for salons, from legal, employment and financial advice to brilliant ideas for managing and boosting your business. For less than 75p a day, member benefits include: • Free 24/7 legal helpline • Free employment and chair renting contracts • Free advice on health and safety • Discounts on industry-specific insurance
COVERSURE INSURANCE
The NHF works in partnership with Coversure Insurance Services to provide value-for-money cover for salons. It offers: • 20 per cent discount for NHF members • Price match guarantee • Instant quotations with immediate cover • Instalment plans • Flexible patch testing requirements
To find out more, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info/insurance CREATIVE HEAD
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THE BUSINESS EDIT
THE SECRET OF… INNOVATION
TOBY DICKER, THE CHAPEL “WOULD I CONSIDER myself an entrepreneur? I donʼt think I could ever label myself that. If others do, it’s a great compliment. I would see myself as unemployable anywhere else, and if that makes me an entrepreneur then fair enough! I started the business with my wife, Amanda. Well, she decided she wanted to create a completely new hairdressing experience for our guests and that’s what she’s done. For us, innovation is the most important element. Doing things differently and making sure we deliver the best consumer experiences is what we are all about. The natural evolution for us was to take on a cloud software system, one that would improve customer experience. The one with the most potential was MINDBODY. I think the fact that it’s made us an almost paperless business now is a really, really positive thing. The versatility of taking software anywhere and on any device – I can check live data of the takings on my mobile – is fantastic. It’s helped us most with customer retention, the one KPI in our business that we care about. Do we retain our team members? Do we retain our customers? If so, then everything else takes care of itself. The most valuable commodity is time; saving time by using the best tools is what helps us to create a more successful business.” IN ASSOCIATION WITH
For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY, visit uk.mindbodyonline.com 30
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AIN'T NO PARTY LIKE A #PATCHTESTPARTY IT LIST VISIONARY Casey Coleman is imploring salons to improve their colour patch testing policy in April – he’s offering clients money off services if they come in for a skin test during the month (see below) and wants salons to join him in the #PatchTestParty. Will colour-busy hairdressers follow his lead? “I fully support Casey’s call,” says Debbie Digby, founder of Passion4Hair and Feathers Salon Group in Essex. “And we have already implemented a ‘colour responsible’ policy. We do come across situations where clients are not prepared to adhere to our skin testing policy, but we believe we have many more clients who have come to us because of the reputation we have built around our responsible approach to colour services.” “In 13 years, I’ve only ever seen a sensitivity and not a full reaction, but we will not perform a colour service unless a skin test has been done,” agrees Dale Hollinshead at Hazel & Haydn in Birmingham. “We’re constantly turning business away as a result, but for everyone’s safety we won’t bend the rules.” “We have a Q&A list, which the clients sign on consultation at the colour bar, and if they have booked online we email ahead and deal with each client individually,” explains Lisa Whiteman, who recently unveiled her new salon, Whiteman Soho, in London. “Mostly we are able to test in advance but clients travelling through looking for a Goldwell salon are more tricky. We’re
looking to collaborate and share skin testing information with a client’s existing salons, wherever it is, but this is time consuming and not standardised.” As she’s building a new brand, the salon “can’t afford to turn away new clients and they can get agitated if you refuse them. It can damage the brand more by refusing,” she worries. She’s looking into the possibility of home kits that the salon can post out prior to the appointment. “It’s something our manufacturers should supply as a duty of care to salon clients,” she adds. Alice Kirby, director at Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing, suggests providing clear information in easy-to-understand terms, explaining the value of the test to the client, such as a salon blog post explaining the potential hazards, and in-salon literature for your team to use. “Weave the skin test message into a client leaflet packed with professional tips and tricks on maintaining your colour for longer at home,” she suggests. “It all reinforces your role as an expert and trusted adviser. And keep your language upbeat and positive. It’s quick, it’s painless and it’s complimentary. ” Be wary of disclaimers though, warns Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF. “Clients sometimes ask if they can sign a disclaimer instead of having an allergy test, but you should never agree to this as a disclaimer would not stand up in court and you would still be liable if the client had an allergic reaction.”
CASEY COLEMAN CHAIR SALONS “Because I’ve just started my own business, I’ve been thinking of ways to improve my service. That’s when the idea of throwing a #PatchTestParty came about. Did you know at least 50 per cent of salons don’t regularly skin test clients? That’s crazy! What happens when that one client has an unexpected reaction and blames you? It leaves you responsible and facing terrible consequences. I’ll be inviting my clients, old and new, to visit us at CHAIR Salons for a patch test and, in return, they’ll get £10 or 10 per cent off of their next colour bill, whichever is more! I’m also encouraging hairdressers across the country, even the world, to take part in the first #PatchTestParty month, to encourage clients to get patch tested. Let’s make this an annual celebration and educate our clients on the benefits of patch testing.” Follow Casey on PAINT! creativeheadmag.com/paint CREATIVE HEAD
16/03/2018 10:47
#BusinessEdit
BUSINESS BUILDER
Male grooming is a lucrative growth area that salons can capitalise on with a few service menu additions. Introducing add-on services like eyebrow waxing, eyebrow shaping and shaving to your menu can boost the number of guys coming to your salon for haircuts. Products like the Wahl 5 Star Shave Razor (£14.99) and Hi Brow Waxing Strips (£1.59) are ideal for salon use.
TEACH ME! The Mike Taylor Shave Day course (£150) will deliver the skills you need to perfect sumptuous shaves – from working with hot towels to learning delicate razor techniques. You’ll need some barbering experience, but it’s brilliant for building up your grooming menu!
THE SERVICE STATION In association with
Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
All prices listed are exclusive of VAT
ON RIGHT NOW
There’s a real consumer buzz around wellbeing, so it’s perfect timing for the Design.ME range to be adding some new lines this month. Loved by hairstylists and clients alike, the award-winning Design.ME range delivers sheen, oomph, volume and super-quick styling. And, everything is cruelty-free, and contains not one single drop of harmful sulphates, parabens or gluten. Perfect!
WELL-GROOMED BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
There’s so much to enjoy in the new Burban men’s range, exclusive to Salon Services, that it’s tricky to know what to recommend first, but we think you’ll love Burban’s Hair & Scalp Tonic (£6.99). It’s packed with caffeine and vitamin B5, which help to stimulate the scalp to encourage strong hair growth.
ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES, WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Meet Salon Services Store Manager of the Year, Paul Owen, based in Cardiff Q: Spring has finally arrived and, with the warmer weather, we’re witnessing a shift in trends, with customers starting to embrace brighter hair and nail colours. At Salon Services, many are looking for insight into the latest “must-have” looks. They’ve recently been asking us: What trends and products are most in-demand at the moment? A: Current trends appearing are pixie cuts or defined bobs similar to that modelled by TV presenter Caroline Flack. Colourwise, silver, rose-gold, and pastel shades like dusty lavender are all the rage at the moment as they are easily maintained. Be sure to stock up on the clippers needed to achieve these shorter styles, as well as luxury colour shampoos that are easily applied, fade out evenly, and come in various colours.
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD
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22/03/2018 12:25
n target
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
Your targeted toolbox to help build your salon business bigger and better, in association with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel
BEATING NO-SHOWS
It’s an age-old problem, clients booking appointments then never appearing. In the restaurant world, some owners are fighting back, naming and shaming ‘no-show’ guests. When we asked our Reader Panel about the problem, many spoke of a “three strikes and you’re out” rule, but also flexibility when it comes to clients who are shift workers, and some even offering staff training on Alzheimer’s when dealing with older clients who can forget bookings. Do you charge for appointments missed without warning?
YES 33% NO 50% WE WOULD LIKE TO… 17% Have no-shows increased in recent years?
YES 36% NO 45% IT’S ABOUT THE SAME 19%
Most popular ways of filling no-show gaps
1. FACEBOOK/SOCIAL MEDIA 2. EMAILS/TEXT, INCLUDING OFFERS 3. STANDBY LIST
AVERAGE RETAIL TURNOVER
ARE YOU ON TARGET?
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (EX. VAT)
Business in February compared with January?
8.3% £49.58
NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR
6.1% OF BUSINESS (February 2018)
“We occasionally use social media to fill on-the-day ‘white space’ and offer a standby rate for on-the-day bookings. We rarely blacklist clients; regular clients who have a habit of being late or missing appointments are called the day before or on the day” JASON BALL, JOHN OLIVERS HAIRDRESSING GROUP
SNAPSHOT
63%
Fall in no-shows after sending out SMS appointment reminders
There has been an increase in salons giving courtesy calls to clients within 48 hours of their appointment to confirm they can still make it
GROWING 39%
DECLINING 46%
STABLE 15%
Business in February compared with February last year?
DECLINING 43%
GROWING 43%
STABLE 14%
HOW HAVE SALONS BEEN TACKLING NO-SHOWS AND CANCELLATIONS ACROSS THE UK?
85%
of clients choose to get appointment reminders by SMS or email
The number of late cancellations and no-shows when salons have a 24-hour cancellation policy is reduced by 49%
WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL ON 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM 32
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/03/2018 16:58
Fierce.
CLUB club
.com/ g a m d a e h e iv t a cre The salon manager’s 2017 guide to business growth
POWERBOOK
SPRING SUMMER 2 018 C RE ATIVEHE ADM AG.COM
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FOR JUST
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AND RECEIVE A BLONDME BEAUTY BOX FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, * WORTH
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YOU’LL GET: • 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and Power Book – delivered to your door • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands
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WIN a place on Schwarzkopf Professional’s World of Igora course! Already a Creative HEAD member? We’ve got something special for you, too! We have two spaces on Schwarzkopf Professional’s World of Igora course to give away, worth £70 each. This one-day seminar will open up a world of colour possibilities, using the IGORA Colour assortment. The course can be taken in London or Manchester. To be in with a chance of winning a space, simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative FOR E HEAD members will receive an email on 1 April! CREATIV B U HEAD CLRS MEMBE ONLY
*For the first 25 new members to sign up between 1 April and 30 April 2018. Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered.
YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N
RU N WAY
19/03/2018 16:05
THIS IS WHERE IT BEGINS
ADDRESS YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR LOSS AND THINNING CONCERNS BEFORE THEY EVEN TAKE ROOT, WITH PAUL MITCHELL’S NATURALLY INSPIRED SOLUTION FOR THINNING HAIR, TEA TREE SCALP CARE
Salon Success4pp.indd 1
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A HEAD START
SOMETIMES IT’S DOWN TO HORMONES AND SOMETIMES IT’S JUST GENETICS, BUT FOR ANYONE SUFFERING FROM HAIR LOSS OR THINNING IT’S ALWAYS A WORRY. NOW YOU CAN HELP CONCERNED CLIENTS WITH TEA TREE SCALP CARE BY PAUL MITCHELL HAIR LOSS AND thinning is never an easy subject to talk to clients about, but imagine how they’d react if you told them you could slow down or even prevent the hair thinning process from happening? To do this, you have to go back to where it all begins – the scalp. Healthy hair and hair growth starts with a healthy scalp. Tea Tree Scalp Care by Paul Mitchell is a preventative system that gently and naturally helps slow down the process of hair thinning. Ideal for men and women, this colour-safe daily regimen is infused with Paul Mitchell’s exclusive Regeniplex Botanical Blend to promote optimal scalp health and encourage healthy, thicker hair.
85 PER CENT REPORTED INCREASED HAIR VOLUME AND STRENGTH* THE REGENIPLEX BOTANICAL BLEND OF FIVE ACTIVE INGREDIENTS WORKS IN THREE STEPS: STEP ONE – Clover flower extract helps slow down the process of hair follicle shrinkage and reduce hair fall STEP TWO – Kakadu plum, pea peptides, turmeric and ginseng moisturise and stimulate the scalp, helping to expand the follicle and strengthen the hair shaft, while increasing hair density and decreasing breakage STEP THREE – The botanical blend helps extend the growth and resting phase of the hair cycle to shorten the period of hair fall, resulting in fuller, thicker hair
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
SCALP CARE ANTI-THINNING SHAMPOO This colour-safe shampoo, featuring the exclusive Regeniplex blend, gently cleanses the scalp and removes impurities
SCALP CARE ANTI-THINNING TONIC This twice-daily spray is infused with the exclusive Regeniplex blend and stimulates the scalp to create an optimal environment for thick and healthy strands
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SCALP CARE ANTI-THINNING CONDITIONER This lightweight conditioner detangles ďŹ ne and fragile hair, while the exclusive Regeniplex blend strengthens hair without weighing it down
SCALP CARE ANTI-THINNING ROOT LIFT FOAM Vitamin E, panthenol and corn starch plump strands for thicker, fuller-looking hair, all in an eco-friendly, non-aerosol dispenser
16/03/2018 11:20
GET THE CONVERSATION STARTED
REMEMBER YOU ARE THE EXPERT
Guide clients as to what would be best suited to their hair. What are they looking to achieve? For example, explain how the Scalp Care Tonic twice-daily spray creates an optimal scalp environment for thicker, stronger and fuller hair.
YOU HAVE YOUR CLIENT’S TRUST – ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS
Ask them: What are you looking to achieve with your hair? What are your hair concerns? What problems are you looking to solve? What is your daily hair routine at home? Are you looking for more body and volume?
LISTEN TO THE ANSWERS
This will guide you how to help solve individual client’s problems. Listen for phrases such as ‘thinning hair,’ ‘hair loss,’ ‘limp,’ ‘fine,’ ‘breakage/breaking,’ ‘dry scalp’ and ‘not enough volume’.
*When using the three-step Scalp Care Anti-Thinning product regimen. Based on an eight-week clinical study on 28 people conducted in an independent laboratory. Results may vary.
Recommending products for hair loss and thinning is all well and good, but making a client feel comfortable enough with you to raise their concerns in the first place is where you need to start. Here are some helpful conversation starters for you to use when talking to your clients, opening the way for you to discuss the benefits of Tea Tree Scalp Care without awkward moments…
TEA TREE SCALP CARE BY PAUL MITCHELL IS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY THROUGH SALON SUCCESS. TO FIND OUT MORE, CALL 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK/TEATREE
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16/03/2018 11:20
… ʦ s r a d e e n y To create art,
Meet the
Amy!
! y e s a C
! e a K
035_Paint promo.indd 1
WE CAN’T TALK ABOUT SALON COLOUR WITHOUT A STELLAR PANEL OF COLOURISTS – MEET THE PAINTERS, OUR TRIBE OF TECHNICIANS WHO’LL SHARE IMAGES, EXPERIENCES, FORMULAS, OPINIONS, VIDEOS, FAVOURITE LOOKS… AND MORE!
S hia!
now, t h ig r g in r a h s e ’r y See what the headmag.com/paint at creative
Pa ic k!
Ja о! 16/03/2018 10:53
#BusinessEdit
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION Even though we have a successful business, the nature of working in a salon is very distracting and it can be easy to get side-tracked away from what will make the business more profitable. What do salon managers need to do to get really focused and productive around what matters most? ADAM JONES, FOWLER35 LONDON
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
Hi Adam. This is a great question and, as a former salon owner myself, is one that I totally empathise with. As our business grows into more than just a job, we find ourselves having to spend more time on things we were never trained for. The whole reason that 3•6•5 exists is to coach salon owners in the business skills that they never learnt during their apprenticeships. There are two questions to regularly ask yourself: ‘Is this the best use of my time?’ and ‘What’s important now?’ When most of us started, we were cutting hair until we dropped to put money in the till and pay the bills. As a salon grows, this should become less and less important until cutting hair becomes what we refer to as a ‘teddy bear’ – something that we don’t really need to do any more but that we love. I regularly add a slide to presentations entitled: ‘One less haircut’. I then suggest all of the things that could be achieved in the same time. FOR EXAMPLE: • You could carry out one-to-ones with individual team members to review performance and set down your future goals •You could meet with a targeted company to set up a Business-to-
Business programme to grow your client numbers • You could create a marketing plan for the next year • You could review your cash flow and profit or loss budgets • You could learn a new skill Each of these has a totally different end goal than that of performing a haircut. Each idea has the potential to grow the results of your business and I believe that this is far more important than putting the value of one haircut into the till. The main purpose of any salon owner or manager should be to grow the business, and one of the areas that is most overlooked is analysis. Analysis is looking back at what you did, why you did it and what you achieved; without analysis you cannot make informed decisions regarding where you go and what strategies it is wise to use in the future. You may have become aware in my previous articles that I am not a believer in over-discounting as a strategy to grow a business. When you do an in-depth analysis of the results of discounting, you see that the income generated and the long term client retention of most campaigns makes them counterproductive. Add in the effects on your brand profile and you begin to understand my standpoint. But most people never do the in-depth analysis to make these informed decisions. The last and most important part of management is selfdiscipline. Build management tasks into your diary and don’t replace it with ‘teddy bears’. So, back to where we started, Adam. Use your time wisely and productively. Delegate and trust others. You only get each minute once.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag 36
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CREATIVE HEAD
22/03/2018 12:26
#BusinessEdit
JEZ BARNETT INNOLUXE
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE WITH INNOLUXE V2? It takes the sector of bond additives to a whole new level. We’ve enhanced our AminoBond Complex, which is the compound that delivers the super-strong sulphur bonds. The improvements deliver amazing strength and repair, while leaving the hair feeling silky smooth. We’ve been working with our ambassador, Sophia Hilton and her team at Not Another Salon, who’ve been stunned at just how amazing the hair feels, even after bleaching services. We’ve also upgraded our simple to use take-home treatment Elixir by adding in more proteins that continue the repair at home.
WHY DID YOU NEED TO REVAMP IT? Although our salons have been thrilled so far, we knew if we could get our technology to the next level, Innoluxe would be able to give our salons a whole new level of performance.
WHAT’S COMING NEXT? We’ve got a lot in development but it’s top secret at the moment. Innoluxe V2 is going to prove so much better than anything that’s been before, so we’re launching with an amazing offer – a half-price, first taste trial pack. And if you don’t think V2 is the best ever, we’ll give you twice your money back! It may seem crazy, but we know we won’t be getting any returns once a stylist has that first taste!
38
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QA
TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!
KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL
Where did your passion for hairdressing come from and where do you find most of your inspiration?
Mathew Watt @MathewWattSalon Creative flair is drilled into my family. Inspiration happens when I just try things out. The more weird the idea, the better it is. I like seeing people’s jaws drop, seeing the light bulb flash above their heads when the weirdness suddenly makes sense. It’s nice to keep a certain innocence to life as the things we do ‘wrong’ often end up being right! Collaboration is at the heart of your brand, but if you could collaborate with a) any hairdresser, and b) any non-hairdresser, who would it be and why?
Ellie Smith, Smith London @psBEGORGEOUS For me, the beauty of collaboration can only happen naturally, otherwise one of the talents will be suppressed or compromised. Often, laziness is mistaken for collaboration, so be careful before they start to ride the wave of your success. Working with different people and businesses opens my eyes and helps me push my brands in to a new dimension. But to answer your questions: a) it would be someone undiscovered yet, with new eyes and a untarnished hunger, and b) Johnny Cupcakes – he has been a huge inspiration for me with his fun, prankster outlook and cult brand following. You inspire a lot of young people in the industry. Who inspired you when you were younger and what advice would you pass on to your younger self?
Sophie Bell @VincentBellHairdressing My advice would be if someone inspires you, go and spend as much time as possible with them. The power of social media means you can do this from afar, but let’s be honest, it isn’t anything like first-hand experience! Keep learning and be silly with your idols in real life! It’s what I’ve done and am still doing now. Advanced professional training often requires NVQ Level 2 as a minimum – what’s your view on this?
Victoria Lynch @RemiCachet There’s too much to go into in a short paragraph, but in my opinion the government grading system means sweet FA. I’d rather surround myself with hungry, driven individuals with no paperwork! I would say always keep perfecting your craft, learn from anything and anyone. Ability, drive and natural talent wipes the floor with any grades. You’re more than welcome on any of my courses if you want to be there. Next month: Bruce Masefield. Tweet your questions @creativeheadmag
CREATIVE HEAD
20/03/2018 13:01
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
COMPETITION
Are you the next
SHINING STAR?
Calling all young stylists; this is your moment. Neäl & Wølf’s prestigious Time To Shine Award returns for a third year and is your chance to gain the recognition you deserve
ARE YOU A YOUNG, ambitious hairstylist on the lookout for an exciting new Neäl & Wølf is a British, challenge? Neäl & Wølf’s Time To Shine Award is what you’ve been looking for. professional haircare brand Whether your passion is for styling or barbering, Neäl & Wølf’s accolade for young stylists offers emerging talent the opportunity to be crowned the brand’s that’s in salons and barber shops Shining Star of 2018. If you win, you will see your work featured in Creative across the UK. Every item in its HEAD, as will two runners-up, and you’ll get a year’s subscription to Creative essential collection has been made HEAD Club to keep up with the latest hair news, launches and trends. with the finest formulations The competition runs from now until 16 September and each month the brand will pick a Best Hairstyle winner from the to ensure it delivers the NEED A entries on social media. Each monthly winner will receive a very best in performance LITTLE EXTRA Salon Promotions training course of their choice, plus their for every hair type. INSPIRATION? CHECK own professional tool kit. LIST STY ER OTH With luxury packaging OUT To enter, simply post a photo of your finished styling or ING RCH SEA BY RIES ENT barbering work on Facebook, Twitter or Instagram using the and a fabulous #TIMETOSHINEAWARD #TimeToShineAward hashtag and tagging @nealandwolf, as fragrance, Neäl & Wølf ON SOCIAL MEDIA well as listing the Neäl & Wølf products you used to achieve the looks and smells unlike look. All entrants must be from salons that stock Neäl & Wølf, any other haircare brand so contact the brand to find out how you can become one.
For more information, call 01282 444900, email info@salonpromotions.co.uk or visit nealandwolf.com. @nealandwolf Follow CREATIVE HEAD
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16/03/2018 10:56
#BusinessEdit
NO ANSWER ON SELFEMPLOYMENT QUESTION Employee wage deductions catching out employers UNIFORMS AND DEDUCTIONS are catching out big employers such as Wagamama and TGI Fridays, named on the latest government ‘name and shame’ list featuring businesses failing to pay the correct National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage. Several of the high-profile cases were due to the rules being incorrectly applied on uniforms and deductions and, Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, warned salons to take care. “Deductions from pay, for any reason, is a tricky area and you should take legal advice before doing so, even if your employees agree to deductions being made,” she warned. “If such deductions take a team member below the minimum wage, then you’re breaking the law. HMRC will still consider the cost of items which employees have to supply as a deduction from wages for the purposes of calculating the National Minimum Wage.”
FIT FOR WORK SCHEME SET TO CLOSE THE GOVERNMENT’s Fit for Work health, work and employee absence service has closed for referrals in England, and will cease in Scotland at the end of May. The service was designed to help small businesses in particular to get employees back on their feet and into work after sickness or injury. GPs were able to refer employees into it for specialist rehabilitation help and support. However, since its launch in 2015, the service had struggled to be accepted by businesses or GPs, and the government said it was closing because of “low referral rates”. The service’s website fitforwork.org will continue to offer free return-to-work advice.
THE NHF HAS expressed disappointment that the government failed to provide much-needed clarity on the future status and tax treatment of selfemployed workers in its long-awaited response to the Taylor Review of Modern Working Practices. The review had been tasked with looking at whether changing employment models, including the ‘gig’ economy and rising rates of self-employment, were benefiting or exploiting workers. It had recommended a number of potentially significant changes, including the creation of a new category of worker, a ‘dependent contractor’, as a halfway house between being directly employed and self-employed. Were this to happen, it could have important implications for hair and beauty. Chair renters, for example, could gain rights to benefits such as sickness and holiday pay. In its response, the government announced plans to crack down on employers who fail to pay fines imposed by employment tribunals, including ‘naming and shaming’ and much larger penalties. But on the all-important issue of self-employment status it decided to put the question out to further consultation. The government also rejected Taylor’s proposals to reduce the difference between the National Insurance Contributions (NICs) of employees and the self-employed. “Although it’s great news for people who are self-employed, we are obviously disappointed that changes to NICs have been ruled out,” said NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. “But the burning questions on employment status have not yet been answered, yet there could be far-reaching consequences for the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industries. We will be building on the campaigning work we have already done and actively participating in the consultations.”
PAY AND TAX CHANGES ARRIVE APRIL HERALDS THE start of the new financial year and will bring an array of pay and tax changes. Hourly rates for the National Living Wage and National Minimum Wage will all be going up, as will the Apprentice wage, see table below. With tax, owners who pay themselves an income from dividends rather than a salary will see their tax-free dividend allowance fall from £5,000 to £2,000. Income from dividends above this will be taxed at 7.5 per cent for basic-rate taxpayers, 32.5 per cent for higher-rate payers and 38.1 per cent for top-rate payers. In Scotland, the basic rate of income tax will be frozen at 20p, while a new intermediate rate of 21p will kick in on earnings above £24,000. The rate for higher-rate taxpayers will also increase, by 1p to 41p. A new ‘starter’ rate, set at 19p, will also be introduced, and will apply to the first £2,000 of taxable income between £11,850 and £13,850.
RATE
FROM APRIL 2018
National Living Wage (over 25s) Age 21 to 24 Age 18 to 20 Age 16 to 17 Apprentice*
£7.83 (up 4.4 per cent) £7.38 (up 4.7 per cent) £5.90 (up 5.4 per cent) £4.20 (up 3.7 per cent) £3.70 (up 5.7 per cent)
*The apprentice rate applies to those aged 16 to 18 training on an apprenticeship and to those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 40
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CREATIVE HEAD
16/03/2018 10:58
S O S R I HA
WATER ISN’T JUST BAD RD HA . CK TA AT R DE UN S YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR IS URBAN ALCHEMY REVEAL O. TO , IR HA R EI TH T BU , CKS FOR THEIR SKIN OTECT THEIR PRECIOUS LO PR S NT IE CL LP HE N CA HOW YOU
DID YOU KNOW that 13 million households in the UK MAGNUM signature cleanse treatment and salt scrub suffer from the effects of hard water? Rain water passes cleanse, cuticles can be repaired. The scales that were through soft rocks, such as chalk and limestone, and previously standing up are flattened, providing a smoother, collects minerals including calcium and magnesium. softer appearance and protecting the hair structure. When these minerals are heated, they combine to form The OPUS MAGNUM signature cleanse treatment limescale, and it’s this that creates hard water in many removes any unwanted discolouration from minerals areas throughout the UK. and chemicals such as chlorine, while the high vitamin C How does this affect the hair? Well, the outermost content encourages healthier and stronger hair. part of the hair shaft – the cuticle – is formed from cells After use, in-salon colouring and hair treatments apply that overlap in layers. They look like scales and provide more easily and distribute equally throughout the hair. protection. Damaged hair can occur when washing in hard Colour will hold its hue for a longer period of time, thanks water as it causes the scales to stand up, leaving to the strengthened hair structure. hair tangled and feeling rough. When hair is After thoroughly cleansing, it is important to WHAT’S YOUR affected in this way, hot water opens the offer the proper steps to care for the hair regularly. WATER LIKE? FIND cuticle and minerals attach to the hair The new OPUS MAGNUM hydrating & soothing OUT WITH URBAN protein, causing discolouration. It is conditioner cares for hair with its sea spa complex, ALCHEMY’S WATER much more difficult for shampoo to clean containing vitamin B5. This moisturising TESTING KIT – CONTACT and requires much more product to cut conditioner makes hair soft and easy to comb and THE BRAND FOR YOUR through the build-up on the hair cuticles. is the perfect daily supplement to the weekly deep FREE KIT TODAY! But by using Urban Alchemy’s OPUS cleansing OPUS MAGNUM salt scrub cleanse.
For more information, call 0333 2412995, email info@new-flag.co.uk or visit urban-alchemy.com. Follow /urbanalchemyuk on Facebook and @urbanalchemyofficial on Instagram
CREATIVE HEAD
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E H T D L WOU N O L A S F O S R A T S N O I S S E S AND
E S A E PL ? P U D STAN
REATIVE C E T A R B E L E C S NTED AWARD AS OF HAIRDRESSING A W T S O M ’S D A E IN ALL ARE CREATIVE HE C N E L L E C X E S S E SKILLS AND BUSIN
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INDIVIDUAL AWARDS MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating stand-out work in men’s hair Category sponsor
TEAM AWARDS
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
BEST SALON TEAM
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proven successful, either for the salon business or for the industry at large
Category sponsor
For teamwork at its best
Category sponsor
BEST LOCAL SALON For a salon that best serves its local community
CREATIVE TALENT
HAIR TREND
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise
For the best on-trend image of the year
Category sponsor
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BEST SALON EXPERIENCE BUSINESS THINKER
SESSION STYLIST
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion
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For a salon that delivers top customer service Category sponsor
BEST NEW SALON COLOUR EXPERT
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise Category sponsor
2018
HAIR ICON For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2018
For a new or revamped salon that turns heads Category sponsor
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STAY TUNED ENTRY DEADLINE Monday 14 May ENTRY FORMS creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted FOLLOW US @creativeheadmag #MWIT18 TALK TO US 01434 610940 / events@alfol.co.uk
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. D R A H K R O W . G I B M A E R D D E C I T O N T GE USTRY STARS D IN W E N R FO H C R EA CREATIVE HEAD’S S
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FOR HAIRDRESSERS AGED 30 OR UNDER THE RISING STAR
FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT WHO’S ENTHUSIASTIC, HARD-WORKING AND FAST-IMPROVING – A NEW TEAM STAR. TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER
THE FASHIONISTA FOR A YOUNG STYLIST MAKING A MARK IN THE WORLD OF FASHION
THE ENTREPRENEUR FOR A YOUNG SALON OWNER WHO’S CREATED AN EXCITING AND SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS
THE VISIONARY FOR A YOUNG STYLIST OR TECHNICIAN WHO’S PUSHING BOUNDARIES
THE IT GIRL AND IT GUY
TWO TROPHIES – ONE FOR A FEMALE, ONE FOR A MALE – EACH AWARDED TO A YOUNG HAIR PROFESSIONAL EXCELLING IN ALL AREAS OF THEIR CRAFT AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
STAY TUNED
event
ENTRY DEADLINE Monday 21 May ENTRY FORMS creativeheadmag.com/theitlist FOLLOW US @creativeheadmag #MWIT18 TALK TO US 01434 610940 / events@alfol.co.uk
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BEST OF YOU NO TWO PEOPLE ARE THE SAME, SO WHETHER YOUR CLIENT IS YOUNG AND WILD OR POLISHED AND SOPHISTICATED, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A HAIRCARE RANGE THAT FITS THEIR LIFESTYLE. PAUL MITCHELL’S LIVE BEAUTIFULLY CAMPAIGN PERFECTLY DEMONSTRATES HOW THE PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEM CAN MEET THE NEED FOR TAILORED HAIRCARE AND BRINGS OUT THE BEST IN YOUR CLIENT
MAKE IT SQUEAKY-CLEAN
CLARIFY AND REMOVE PRODUCT BUILD-UP AND TOXINS WITH PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO TWO AND SHAMPOO THREE
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
PROTECT COLOUR
PRESERVE YOUR CLIENT’S COLOUR WITH PAUL MITCHELL COLOUR PROTECT TREATMENT AND LOCKING SPRAY
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16/03/2018 11:03
REPAIR COLOUR
TREAT AND REPAIR COLOURED HAIR WITH PAUL MITCHELL ULTIMATE COLOUR REPAIR MASK AND ULTIMATE COLOUR REPAIR TRIPLE RESCUE
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
SHOW WHAT STYLE REALLY MEANS
GIVE THEM THE CONTROL TO CREATE STYLES THAT LAST, WITH PAUL MITCHELL FLEXIBLE STYLE HAIR SCULPTING LOTION AND FLEXIBLE STYLE SCULPTING FOAM
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PROVIDE VOLUME
VOLUMINOUS, THICKER HAIR CAN BE THEIRS WITH PAUL MITCHELL EXTRABODY FINISHING SPRAY AND EXTRA-BODY THICKEN UP
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
GIVE STYLE THAT LASTS AND PROTECT COLOUR FOR MAXIMUM HOLD AND HAIR THAT WON’T BUDGE, OFFER PAUL MITCHELL FIRM STYLE FREEZE AND SHINE SUPER SPRAY AND FIRM STYLE DRY WAX
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GENTLY CLEAN AND CONDITION
TAKE THE SOFTLY, SOFTLY APPROACH TO WASHING AND CONDITIONING HAIR WITH PAUL MITCHELL SHAMPOO ONE AND THE CONDITIONER
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
SMOOTH IT
FOR FRIZZ-FREE AND SOFTER HAIR, GIVE THEM PAUL MITCHELL SUPER SKINNY SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER
LIVE BEAUTIFULLY WITH PAUL MITCHELL. TO FIND OUT MORE, CALL 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK 53
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In association with
The
ART
La Biosthétique
of
G N I E B L L E W ed-out, 24/7 ss re st a in ce n ing bala Clients are crav d services – help n a ck o st s it d n ns – a nse of self? se r world. Can salo ie p p a h a e v them achie
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WELLBEING
actively promoting vegan and environmentally-conscious lifestyle and product ranges. Even TV programmes such as Blue Planet have raised awareness of the impact of plastics and formaldehyde in products. A shift in thinking on the professional side will also be visible from L’Oréal Professionnel, which unveils two important new brands next month. Source Essentielle is its new vegan haircare collection, formulated with 80 to 100 per cent naturally derived ingredients and with packaging designed with a sustainable approach to innovation. It’s intentionally square to hold the maximum amount of product in the minimum amount of recycled plastic, and means it stacks better when transported. Clients can also take bottles back to the salon to be refilled. Botanéa will be L’Oréal Professionnel’s first wholly plantbased colour. Made from three herbal ingredients – henna, cassia and indigo – that have each been sustainably sourced from India, colourists using Botanéa will be able to create colour recipes bespoke to each client, from warm to cool tones, or simply add a gloss to natural hair bases. “Botanéa is going to be great for those clients that are interested in natural alternatives for colour,” says Kelli Brookes, L’Oréal Professionnel education manager. Added to an interest in all things eco and recycling is now a greater push for it all to be more holistic. ‘‘It is such an important time for salons to be talking about ingredients with clients as the wellness trend has transformed our approach to the hair and beauty industry,” says Chris Nicholas, UK managing director at Insight, a boutique Italian brand that’s just launched in the UK.
La Biosthétique
A GLANCE ACROSS a bookshop’s new releases, or about 80 per cent of your Instagram feed, will attest that there is an enormous consumer trend towards wellness and wellbeing, with increased interest in veganism, mindfulness and superfoods that can improve mood and health. Of course, it’s only natural that all things beauty follows suit, and hair brands are now unveiling launches with this specific trend in mind. These are products that have a wellness angle, incorporate superfood ingredients, may even be vegan, and encourage a more mindful approach to beauty and life. Visit Cult Beauty, for example, and you’ll find a dedicated ‘Wellbeing’ category to peruse, including collagen shots, detox products and aromatic stress treatments. It’s a huge retail and service opportunity for salons to tap into – by talking about wellbeing and mindfulness in the beauty sphere, you have the opportunity to capture the attention of clients who are already concerned about wellness, what they eat, what they use on their bodies and how the items they use impact the planet. By providing a salon that whisks them away from their daily stresses and gives them time to be mindful and to recharge their batteries, using products that are responsibly crafted and packed with ingredients that are already on their radar, the experience of visiting you and buying from you becomes more meaningful. The goal is to achieve a true balance of a healthy mind and body, while being mindful of any environmental impact, too. Healthy living has evolved into an necessity rather than a luxury, becoming more about discovery, pleasure and happiness, and it’s all done at a greater level of sophistication than ever before. It’s no wonder that Google searches for “wellbeing” over the past 12 months have increased more than 20 per cent, with the UK second only to Australia in terms of searches on the subject. There is a discernible push by hair labels to illustrate their corporate responsibility and awareness of consumer concern regarding ingredients, artificiality and the impact of plastic. The La Biosthétique Botanique Pure Nature range launch is perfectly timed – it is 100 per cent vegan, 100 per cent certified natural cosmetics and is produced “with the values of 100 per cent Global Social Responsibility”, meaning every part of it’s production considers its ethical impact. Key ingredients include ginseng, aloe vera and macadamia nut oil. “Hippy stereotypes have become a cliché of the past as the everyday consumer is now outwardly conscious of the products that they choose in their diet and beauty regimes,” argues Lena Zurloh, educator at La Biosthétique. She points to celebrities such as Rihanna, Miranda Kerr and Jessica Alba
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#Wellbeing
R+Co
“It’s important salons can cater for a customer market that is so conscious about the health and wellbeing of both our hair and body, and the environment. Also, thanks to social media and internet, information is so readily available for consumers – so it’s important that stylists are also able to offer this information to their clients on their own products and services in the salon.” And in a busy world where it can feel like there’s no ‘off’ switch, Schwarzkopf Professional is encouraging salons and clients alike to reclaim some balance with Oil Ultime, a new range that features 100 per cent natural oils. As well as providing a muchneeded moment of calm when used at home, Oil Ultime ‘ceremonies’ at the backwash, inspired by modern aromatherapy, will also give salons the chance to pamper clients. One of the original professional hair brands with an eye on wellbeing and responsible beauty, Aveda believes rituals are key in helping clients relax, recharge and enjoy a greater balance. Milk_shake is also clear about its dedication to using natural ingredients and superfoods in its products, with active ingredients selected for specific actions as well as a lasting aesthetic effect. Its ingredients list is akin to reading a nutritionist’s wish list, packed with items such as quinoa, yoghurt and raspberries. According to Mintel, consumers are also likely to consider general, simple ingredient statements as an indicator that a personal care product is natural. “Brands may want to consider strengthening the messaging of quality, such as by calling out
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HAIRATAGE PERSHORE, WORCESTERSHIRE With its totally certified status, Botanique Pure Nature from La Biosthétique allows Hairatage founder Zoe Stock to broach the trending topic of responsible beauty, she explains: “We have clients from all walks of life who understand more about ingredients than in years gone by and choose products that are more socially responsible.” She says that many clients are very aware of, and understand the impact, certain ingredients can have on their health, as well as the environment. “It’s a real coup to offer the Botanique Pure Nature range that isn’t just partially vegan but 100 per cent vegan certified and delivers the results that they expect from a brand like La Biosthétique.” She adds that with a range that includes tea, skin and haircare, it delivers a total beauty concept.
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Botanique Ginseng
PURE N AT U R E
Panax ginseng
Ginkgo
Gentle
Ginkgo biloba
Mint Mentha spicata
Lavender Lavandula hybrida
Balancing Intense Aloe Vera Aloe barbadensis
Jojoba Simmondsia chinensis
100 % certified natural cosmetics for hair and skin Vegan, exclusively with natural aromas, free from parabens, silicone, mineral oil, sulphate and alcohol additives.
Coming soon and will be available in selected hairdressing salons and at: labiosthetique.com La Biosthetique, The Academy, 800 Wellworthy Road, Ampress Park, Lymington, Hampshire, SO41 8JY La Biosthetique, The Academy, 800 Wellworthy Road, Ampress info@biosthetique.co.uk Park, Lymington, Hampshire, SO41 8JY 03330 142 444 www.biosthetique.co.uk 03330 142 444 www.biosthetique.co.uk info@biosthetique.co.uk /LaBiosthetiqueUK @BiosthetiqueUK @BiosthetiqueUK /LaBiosthetiqueUK
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@BiosthetiqueUK
@BiosthetiqueUK
13/03/2018 11:31 07/02/2018 14:14
#Wellbeing BEBOP LONDON
unique ingredients, as consumers view this as one of the top reasons for buying,” says Jana Vyleta, health and personal care analyst at Mintel. This can work in the salon, too: talk about the key unique ingredients – ones they probably recognise from their food cupboards, Bebop director Pont Smith has noticed a rise in the wellbeing trend, too – and the benefits they offer to hair. Some and says the term ‘responsible beauty’ has become very important to brands have pushed this front and centre, such the brand. “Consumers have gained a great deal of knowledge and are now as Pureology’s Superfood Treatment Masks, more concerned with the ingredients that are used in the products, especially packed with on-trend ingredients consumers superfood ingredients,” he admits. Bebop stocks will recognise, such as goji berry and avocado. R+Co because of how it relates to “our ethics and For all their nutritional benefits, clients morals as a business”. “Not only does R+Co have will want reassurance that superfood a collection of some of the most influential and ingredients will also perform. At Toni&Guy, forward-thinking hairdressers, but also its its label.m Cool Blonde Shampoo and products are formulated without parabens, Conditioner contain the ‘power-of-three’ – sulphates, mineral oil and petroleum purple superfood ingredients blueberries, jelly. They are also all vegan, cruelty-free, purple sweet potatoes and purple carrots – to gluten-free and colour safe. This benefits deposit violet-intensifying pigments to improve our clients, who walk away happy any brassy tones and to also support the hair’s knowing that the product they overall fibre strength and collagen for optimised have bought, or have had resistance. Yet for Millennials and Generation Z, all used on their hair, focuses this focus on wellbeing and responsibility is pretty on responsible beauty much second nature, with such consumers expecting and overall wellbeing.” this as standard in the brands they buy. It isn’t special to be vegan or organic – it’s normal. Take R+Co: its a brand that can boast about its clean, vegan credentials, but they’re just one element of its story. So, the product manufacturers are delivering the goods…
…but how are salons communicating their wellbeing stance and responsible product ranges to consumers? Salon owner Michael Van Clarke, says: “Our clientele visit the salon looking for more than just a great haircut, they’re looking to enhance their overall wellbeing, and we deliver this through unique technique, haircare, beauty and catering.” It recently opened ‘The Deli’ to deliver fresh, healthy and mind-boosting meals, snacks and drinks The Jamie Hill Salon in Swansea now stocks Insight, which owner made to order for both clients and staff. Jamie Hill selected “as it attracts clientele with the same principles as me. In Peckham you’ll find R+Co stockists I am a vegan and fellow eco-warrior so I completely understand consumers’ Cahoona’s Hair Hub, based in a reclaimed car approach to a cleaner way of living, and that includes our hair products”. park called The Peckham Levels, next door to With today’s life being so fast-paced and stressful, he was keen to offer a salon a yoga, food and wellbeing studio selling the that creates a feeling of wellbeing. Using old reclaimed household furniture, utmost in nutritional food and juices. “These all clients walk in and feel straight at home. “It’s comforting, calm and relaxing,” compliment the desire for the Cahoona’s tribe says Jamie. “We have aromatherapy oils vaporised in the air, and offer Shiatsu to look after our clients with the best possible massage at the backwash, as well as focusing on scalp massage rituals to ease service,” explains founder Tracey Cahoon. the stress away. After that you can relax, looking out over the water of the And modern salons are increasingly branching marina while sat at a vintage dressing table. We make sure their appointment out, some have added health and wellbeing is as much about their experience as the haircut itself.’’ extras onto the menu. At RCNQ in Manchester’s Northern Quarter, founder Rob Czlapka believes “a hair salon is all about making a person feel their best, not just look their best”, and offers classes with partner Flex Yoga – clients can book Don’t Namastay at Work on a Monday evening or Don’t Namastay in Bed on a Thursday morning.
JAMIE HILL SWANSEA
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#Wellbeing
G N I E B L WEL
WONDERS
Packed with superfood ingredients, aromas to soothe or invigorate, and delivering a little ‘me time’ at home, these are the retail ranges helping you and your clients win the balancing act
Feed hair with goodness with the two Superfood Treatments from Pureology. Strength Cure contains olive oil and goji berry, while Hydrate is full of avocado and coconut oil.
RRP £26.50 EACH
pureology.co.uk
There’s nothing harsh about the new Acid Wash from R+Co. This apple cider vinegar cleansing rinse gently removes build-up for dramatic shine without impacting natural oils.
Get multi-masking with the Circle Chronicles by Davines, packed with ingredients such as bamboo charcoal and matcha tea.
RRP £7.90 EACH davines.com
RRP £27.50
randco.com
Organic mint and sage extracts in the milk_shake sensorial mint collection provide an invigorating infusion that restores the natural balance of the hair and scalp.
RRP £14.09
milkshakehaircare.co.uk
A lightweight yet luxurious blend of oils that hits the relaxing aromatherapy mark, Oil Ultime from Schwarzkopf Professional blends in-salon and take-home treats.
RRP FROM £16
Recharge hair in quick time with the new Invigo range from Wella Professionals. The in-salon boosters are concentrated formulas with superfood ingredients, while the care products include goodies such as vitamin E and lime caviar.
IN-SALON SERVICE wella.co.uk
Three purple superfoods are packed into the label.m Cool Blonde Shampoo and Conditioner – blueberries, purple sweet potatoes and purple carrots all deposit their tones to maintain platinum hair and improve strength.
SHAMPOO RRP £14.95; CONDITIONER RRP £17.95 labelm.com
schwarzkopf-professional.com
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be
bold
with
NEW
bl nde
cool Colour Correcting & Toning Strengthening & Nourishing Botanically Enriched Ingredients
01753 612 040 labelm.com labelmUK
649.2 labm Cool Blonde Creative Head SP.indd 1
20/03/2018 12:58
#Wellbeing Flowerfall is a miracle in a bottle; an energising and anti-ageing tonic from Oway that shields and nourishes the hair and scalp against the strains of daily life.
RRP £25
La Biosthétique’s new range Botanique Pure Nature has three different branches – Intense, to activate the scalp; Gentle, for mild cleansing and styling; and Balancing, to bring harmony to stressed-out hair.
RRP FROM £16
oway.co.uk
biosthetique.co.uk
Source Essentielle is the new vegan haircare range from L’Oréal Professionnel, launching in May. With four shampoos – nourishing, daily, radiance and delicate scalp – you can offer solutions for every hair concern using natural ingredients such as jasmine flowers and acacia leaves. Offer your clients a lighter kind of luxury with Marula Oil Light from Paul Mitchell, which adds shine and helps seal split ends without weighing hair down.
RRP FROM £18
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Urban Alchemy’s Opus Magnum Signature Hair Cleanse is like a detox for hair, while the Salt Scrub Cleanse is a great follow-up for a healthy scalp.
SIGNATURE HAIR CLEANSE IN-SALON SERVICE, SALT SCRUM CLEANSE RRP £19.95 urban-alchemy.com
SHAMPOO RRP £21.95; CONDITIONER RRP £23.95; SERUM RRP £26.95
salon-success.co.uk
Fight thinning hair the natural way with Rep-Hair, the four step daily scalp and hair care regime Organic Colour Systems.
RRP £125
organiccoloursystems.com
April is Earth Month so to celebrate Aveda has released a vetiver scented candle to help guests unwind, with proceeds going to Water Aid.
RRP £16
aveda.co.uk
The Insight collection contains a range of products for every hair need – plus they contain ozonated water, which means it’s pure and free from any nasty metallic extracts or bacteria.
RRP FROM £9.99
insightprofessional.co.uk
With silk proteins and liquid shea, Neäl & Wølf’s Ritual Daily Cleanser Shampoo and Conditioner, part of their impressive range of indulgent products, provide a slice of luxury every day, reducing flyaways and adding brilliant shine for super-radiant hair.
RRP £12.95 EACH nealandwolf.com
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THE CULT NATURAL HAIR CARE RANGE EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT
NO ANIMAL TESTING VEGAN FRIENDLY
T: 0800 158 8009 E: sales@insightprofessional.co.uk www.insightprofessional.co.uk
! E R O ENC E! R O C EN E T A IM T L U E H T IR A H E GIV H IT W H C U O T G IN H IS IN F G IN H IS IN F E T A IM T L U E H T EZER E T E L G N A T Y B H S U R B IR HA WHETHER CLIENTS ARE heading to work, the gym or a night out with the girls, they need a hairstyle that lasts. They’re not looking for beautiful blow-dried hair that can only be truly achieved in-salon – day-to-day they want to be able to create a lasting look at home. The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush by Tangle Teezer is the encore to any beautiful style, however your clients decide to wear their hair. Unlike Tangle Teezer’s range of detangling hairbrushes, The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush has been created purposefully for dry styling. How is it different? It’s all down to the unique configuration of teeth. These teeth are finer at the tip, which smooth the cuticles, giving smoothness and shine to the hair, helping clients to create salon-worthy up-dos at home, from the perfect pony to back-brushing for volume and texture. Got clients with extensions and weaves? The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush is all they need for maintaining and blending in hair extensions, clip-ins and weaves for a natural look. It’s also a great retail opportunity for salons as clients will love the idea that, while they can’t have an on-hand stylist at home, they can have the next best thing: The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
GET THE LOOK
CLIENTS IN NEED OF A LITTLE STYLE INSPIRATION? THESE PULL-THROUGH BRAIDS WILL TAKE THEM FROM THE OFFICE TO THE PARTY THANKS TO THE ULTIMATE FINISHING HAIRBRUSH BY TANGLE TEEZER
hairbrush, Using The Ultimate Finishing Starting at ing. part re cent a into hair separate ion of hair sect ll the front on one side, take a sma the same eat Rep tic. elas and secure with a clear nd. behi ion sect next the method with
Separate the first mini ponytail into two and bring the second ponytail through the two strands and secure with a clip. With the two strands, collect another section from the scalp and secure both sections with a clear elastic, creating a loop.
ng clip and repeat Loosely remove the hair sectioni to the nape of the the same method until you get The Ultimate with hair neck. Brush through the add shine. and hair oth smo to h Finishing hairbrus
Finish in style with Tangle Teezer’s The Ultimate Finishing hairbrush. To find out more, visit tangleteezer.com, email sales@tangleteezer.com or call 0207 7384458 CREATIVE HEAD
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MANCHESTER EVENT!
ALL ABOUT THE BRAND JOIN CREATIVE HEAD FOR AN EVENING OF CONVERSATION AND INSPIRATION AS WE CHAT TO TWO HAIRDRESSING HEAVYWEIGHTS WHO HAVE CARVED A NEW CAREER PATH, FASHIONED A NEW PROFILE, AND GONE THEIR OWN WAY
JAYSON GRAY AKA THE KARBON KYD AND FORMER CREATIVE COLOUR FORCE AT TONI&GUY
BRUCE MASEFIELD PREVIOUSLY UK CREATIVE DIRECTOR AT SASSOON – NOW OWNER OF EDINBURGH SALON BRUCE MASEFIELD: HAIR
MONDAY 16 APRIL 2018 7PM UNTIL 10PM, MANCHESTER BUY TICKETS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL 01434 610416 SINGLE TICKET £25 PAIR OF TICKETS £40 Includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from BaByliss PRO
The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking event for hair and fashion professionals creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
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21/03/2018 12:40
L/MAY/JUNE APRI 20 18
MISTER QUARTERLY 01_Cover MRQ sectionV2.indd 1
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GROOMING IS
BOOMING Introducing new Redken Brews –
ing
om NYC-created, barber-inspired gro
men have never been so engaged
In 2017 there were six per cent more online searches for men’s hair than women’s. Men are high-value clients who visit the salon more frequently than women, and you deserve a piece of that action. Men are more knowledgeable about grooming and pay more attention than ever to their look, actively seeking expertise from professionals and willing to pay for it, too! From training tools that deliver effective consultations to colouring and cutting techniques to nail on-trend looks that are easy to recreate at home, Redken Brews meets this growing consumer demand.
women purchase 40 PER CENT OF MEN’S products
Female clients play an important role in this booming market, too. How often do you hear clients complaining about the men in their lives using their beauty products? Now they can buy Redken Brews and get him his own! The comprehensive collection of shampoos, styling, skin and beard products offer a unique opportunity for you to introduce an additional revenue stream to your business in a market that is hugely profitable.
Redken brews means big business
So whether it’s male or female clients you are tapping into, Redken Brews is the perfect men’s grooming collection for a unisex salon or a barbers. From ready-made retail kits including innovative merchandising and sampling solutions to engaging and easy-access education videos accesible 24/7 where stylists can learn cutting, colouring and shaving techniques, Redken Brews offers the perfect package for salons of any size and clientele to capitalise on this growing trend.
01_Cover MRQ sectionV2.indd 2
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PROMO
NEW REDKeN BREWS
In 1967, Redken introduced one of the industry’s first professional grooming lines for men. Staying true to its heritage, 2018 sees the launch of the next generation in men’s grooming with Redken Brews, the new NYC-inspired male grooming collection. Offering a complete destination for style, haircare, skin, beard and colour solutions, this is a no-fuss, ready-made collection of products and services perfectly suited for both unisex salons and barbers.
STYLE – CARE – SKIN – BEARD – COLOuR Join the club today. redken.co.uk @barbersandbrews @redken #redkenbrews 01_Cover MRQ sectionV2.indd 3
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BREWING
UP TRENDS
looks techniques to create the key male d an cts du pro es tur fea s ew Br Redken that are trending right now...
We know that men are more engaged with their appearance and actively investing in products and services to look their best. However, the way they interact with products is fundamentally different to female clients. Consumer research shows that male clients want simplicity from a grooming range and Redken Brews has been designed to respond directly to this growing need – being on-trend has never been so easy!
Close Shaves Shorter Lengths
SKIN FADE
CREW CUT+BEARD
Classic Revivals Medium lengths
LOOSE QUIFF
POMPADOUR
Boys to Men
Short-medium Lengths
TOUSLED CROP
TAPER FADE
Mane Attraction Longer Lengths
BRUSHED BACK
MAN BUN
To learn how to create these looks, sign up to lorealaccess.co.uk/redken 01_Cover MRQ sectionV2.indd 4
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PROMO
CRAFTED FOR
SUCCESS
Leading men’s influencers have been capitalising on the booming male grooming trend with Redken Brews. Here they tell us why this new range is the perfect addition to their salons…
Jonny Long, ,
Jim Shaw,
celebrity hair stylist Lockonego Salon London
Male clients visit our salon often to maintain their looks, which means my team needs easy-to-follow tutorials, tips and techniques to stay up to date with key trends, so they will love the easy-to-follow videos available online via L’Oréal Access
Male grooming is my speciality and grey blending services for men are incredibly popular. Adding the new Cut & Camo Service from Redken Brews to our menu will generate more profit and give clients more reason to visit us
award-winning male grooming specialist, Essensuals Billericay
Corrado Tevere, celebrity hair stylist, Radio Salon London
Most of my female clients purchase for their male partners while in the salon and Redken Brews is going to appeal to them just as much as it does to my male clients
Join the club today. redken.co.uk @barbersandbrews @redken #redkenbrews 01_Cover MRQ sectionV2.indd 5
20/03/2018 16:11
Photography by Marie Harkness
THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS
– s to Sam Congrat merican A he’s the Star ll A w e Cr ge Challen r! e n in UK w
Mr. Q
a decidedly fashion…to an action-packed issue, with e of the coolest som at forward focus. We have a look , and we enjoyed a Men k: Wee trends from London Fashion with us his new ed shar who tête-à-tête with Jody Taylor, also time for It’s . don Lon d capsule product line, Taylore cialist for Spe ng omi Gro e Most Wanted to uncover a Mal mmends reco rtily hea Q Mr. 2018 – entry is now open and say? you do t Wha . ring the that you throw your hat into
GET SMART
1. 2. 3.
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER Enter… The Most Wanted Awards are back and the Male Grooming Specialist title is up for grabs! Jonathan Andrew won in 2017, could 2018 be your year? Deadline is 14 May – good luck! creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Get creative… The Bluebeards Revenge has unveiled its new training service, starting with a killer shave day course that can be booked at your salon or barber shop. bluebeards-revenge.co.uk/training
See… the global winner of the American Crew All Star Challenge revealed live on stage in Barcelona! It’s been a UK name for the past two years – can we make it three in a row? 4 June. americancrew.com/allstarchallenge
YO TO U NE ME ED ET…
welcomes you…
MR SAM WALL Hidden Heights Creative Studio
Describe yourself in five words: Abstract, adventurous, workaholic, creative, caring. What’s exciting you about British barbering and male grooming right now? That everyone in the industry is continuing to move forward. The boundaries for men’s hair are being pushed by barbers and hairdressers, which in turn has created more interest in men’s fashion, therefore opening up more opportunities in the fashion world for male stylists. If I could change one thing… I would raise the standard of apprenticeships. I would erase all the negative nonsense. I think we can lack respect for the juniors in our salons; a high percentage that I hear from have been mistreated during their stint, which in turn ends up with them leaving the industry. We just need to remember our time as
a junior and not forget how tough it can be. However, this doesn’t give juniors the excuse not to work hard, it’s a two-way street. The barber who inspired me is… Alan Findlay from the BOMB Squad. I have worked closely with Alan and his vision, creativity and way of thinking always amazes me. I love to absorb as much knowledge as I can from this gentleman. Who else should we get to know… @mattyconrad from Canada, as his ethos and morals are nothing but gentlemanly, and he will help any barber, new or old. I would also follow my American sister @whitneyvermeer – she’s literally got it all. Say hello to me… @mrsamwall or Mr Sam Wall on Facebook.
ON THE COVER Hair by Redken.
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NEW GROOM ROOM Trend for Men, Hornchurch, Essex
Matt Robinson, founder of Mister Robinson’s Barbershop & Gentleman’s Supplies and star of Salon Smart, is joining the Andis UK ambassador team. His role will include stage work and creating content across social media. “We love to support creative talent and influencers and we are proud to have Matt,” said Jessica Zeinstra, Andis education manager.
SAKS UNVEILS NEW MEN’S BRAND Inspired by minimalist and clean interiors, Trend for Men barber shop is on a busy suburban road in Essex. But, it’s design aesthetic is pure New York warehouse, thanks to the sleek grey and white colour scheme alongside the concrete and stainless steel finish. Its distinctly industrial yet polished style is masculine and hard-wearing, so it’s totally practical while looking like a million dollars. You’ll find Takara Belmont’s Dainty grooming chairs inside that rotate and recline, essential with all that precision scissor work.
95%
The UK’s biggest hair and beauty salon group, Saks, is unveiling the very first Saks Men, in Leeds. Found within the David Lloyd Club in Moortown, it’s opposite an existing Saks Hair & Beauty salon and the plan is to roll out more Saks Men shops across David Lloyd fitness clubs. “We looked at offering a variety of services in a cool environment with master barbers,” said owner Paul Corrigan.
PRIME NUMBERS
supported by
OF MEN STILL visit the high street to go to their barber shop or hairdresser. In comparison, the pub came second (76 per cent), the restaurant/coffee shop third (54 per cent) with the gym fourth (39 per cent). In the research, by The Bluebeards Revenge, 2,126 men living in the UK were surveyed and 93 per cent declared that they visit their barber shop or salon at least once a month. Could it mean the barber shop is the secret weapon in the fight to save the high street? Overall, only 12 per cent of men surveyed now visit the high street on a daily basis, 21 per cent make the trip once a week and 27 per cent go once a fortnight.
Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk Mister Quarterly 07
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ON THE SHELF
BOYS’ TOYS
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP The Bluebeards Revenge’s hair styling range includes a barber shop-quality pomade; a matt paste and a matt clay.
RRP £9.99 each 01752 989191 bluebeards-revenge.co.uk
The new Andis T-Outliner Cordless Li Trimmer has a classic feel with the power to last.
Vinyl Pomade from Fudge Professional fuses an old-school shine vibe with an appreciation of tousled texture.
RRP £13.95 020 7845 6333 fudgeprofessional.com
£149 01277 713311 andis.com
Redken Brews contains everything you need to kitPart of out your barber shop or salon, including Camo Post the Wahl Color for five-minute grey coverage! Shave 5 Star Series, Cooling RRP from £12.50 the Cordless Lotion from 0845 6000815 Detailer has a American Crew is a redken.co.uk unique adjustable taper lightweight, moisturising lever to get you trimming and cooling skin rescuer to and tapering to perfection. restore skin’s balance.
£101.99
RRP £13.50
01227 740066 wahl.co.uk
020 7391 7440 americancrew.com
Takara Belmont’s new Legend barber chair is fully motorised and reclines to a completely horizontal position.
From £5,620 020 7515 0333 takarahair dressing. co.uk
Meet Burban, Salon Services’ own-brand range for all barbering and grooming needs, developed with the help of barber Mike Taylor.
For detailed and textured looks that last, Dart Pomade Stick from R+Co never misses the mark.
RRP from £5.99
01442 248104 randco.com
0330 1231907 salon-services.com
RRP £18
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ESSENTIAL MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH
I LIKE AMERICAN CREW FIBER BECAUSE IT WAS THE FIRST MATTE PRODUCT ON THE MARKET. ALMOST TWO DECADES AGO IT GAVE BARBERS THE OPTION FOR AN ALTERNATIVE FINISH RATHER THAN JUST THE WAXY, GREASY LOOK. IT HAS BEEN MY GO-TO MATTE PRODUCT OF CHOICE EVER SINCE – I USE IT FOR DISHEVELLED, TEXTURED STYLES. I ALSO LIKE FORMING CREAM BECAUSE OF ITS VERSATILITY. IT CAN BE USED IN MANY DIFFERENT STYLES DEPENDING ON THE AMOUNT YOU USE, BE IT A VERY NATURAL FINISH OR A HEAVIER, MORE SCULPTED ONE
JOHNNY BABA, BARBER BARBER
Host Chris Foster with Mr Sam Wall and American Crew’s Lisa Jackson
GET YOUR MOTOR RUNNING… Mr Sam Wall is the UK winner of American Crew’s All Star Challenge! He scooped the top prize, with his Hidden Heights Creative Studio cohort, Aimee McPherson, taking second place. All was revealed at a cracking night in London’s Bike Shed, with former Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist winner, Chris Foster, as host and Mr. Q editor Amanda Nottage one of the judges. Sam is through to the next round, before global finalists are revealed on 15 April.
No blurred lines with this look – new American Crew Elite Team member Alan Beak @alan_beak from Ruger Barbers is delivering the perfect pomp, using American Crew favourites Fiber and Forming Cream. Mr. Q just had to have this as his Close Up! Could your look catch his eye for the next issue? Post it on Instagram, tag @americancrewuk and use #MrQCrewCloseUp for your chance…
#MrQCrewCloseUp The influence and impact of fragrance is enormous – catch a little sandalwood in the air and you could be instantly transported back to a special time and place. Well, that place might just be Americana – that’s the new fragrance from American Crew. Born of the American spirit, it’s a tantalising fusion of clean notes and a fresh but luxurious scent. We’re talking bergamot, citrus and coriander, melding with cashmere sandalwood and patchouli. We have five to give away – head online now to creativeheadmag.com and enter our competition!
Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com
AmericanCrewUK Mister Quarterly 09
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Hayley Kenna
Jessica Zeinstra Rosen
Goergie Wynes-Devlin
Sophie Skye
IN 2018, BARBERING IS NO LONGER THE PRESERVE OF MEN – ESPECIALLY IF THESE WOMEN HAVE ANYTHING TO SAY ABOUT IT
just for
Some barber shops may celebrate a retro vibe, as places where ‘men can be men’ – but the idea that barbering is traditionally a man’s game is a distant memory. “More women are entering barbering than even five years ago. We are seeing an increase in women joining courses at London School of Barbering, which is amazing,” says Bryony Holman, educator at London School of Barbering. Another key indicator is that more women are entering barbering competitions than ever before, according to statistics from The Bluebeards Revenge and the British Barbers’ Association. The figures show that 23 per cent of the entries to this year’s Britain’s Best Shave were female, up from just eight per cent back in 2014. Nick Gibbens, spokesman for The Bluebeards Revenge, acknowledges “making an impact on the barbering world
hasn’t been easy for women”, and even remembers the days when men would refuse to sit in the barber’s chair if the barber was a woman. But times are changing and last year even saw Welsh barber Sophie Collins of Soph’s Barbers make it to the final of Barber UK. Sophie attributes the rise in female barbers to the trade press. “Female barbers have been given more coverage, have been able to promote their work and, as a result, grown in confidence,” she says. Jessica Zeinstra Rosen, Andis education manager, agrees: “Every time you see another female barber on the cover of a magazine, win an award or taking to the stage at a show, it gives courage to other women.” Confidence is certainly a factor, but Sophie Skye, a barber at Cut & Grind, winners of the 2017 Most Wanted Salon Team award, also believes it’s about acceptance. She explains: “It’s a confidence thing, but it’s also become more accepted in the industry and among clients to have women in a barber shop. Gone are the days of it being a ‘men’s club’. I think clients are happy to see more diversity in the shop.” Hayley Kemm, who owns The Wild Hare barber shop
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Bryony Holman
Laura Howlett Sophie Collins
men in Tooting, London, along with her sister Georgie Wynes-Devlin, believes the surge in female barbers is down to the power of social media. “It has made women more aware of the barbering industry and it lets them see it’s not just men doing it.” Barbering didn’t always look as attractive or as lucrative as it does now; it’s been in the past six or so years that it has witnessed a revival. And as more male barbers see their star rise, it’s natural female hairdressers would want to pursue opportunities. Sophie Skye always had barbering in the back of her mind when she started out in hairdressing, but wanted to get more experience before pursuing it fully. “I started a hairdressing apprenticeship when I was 19 and I was attracted to cutting, so I pursued that part of the industry,” she explains. “At the same time, a work colleague was telling me about her friends who were barbers and I thought: ‘That’s something I’d love to do’.” Sophie loves the vibe of a barber shop, but stresses that a sense of humour is needed. “Guys tend to be more relaxed, honest and direct, but they love the fun and the banter of a barber shop. Men come in for a cut, but also
the chat, which makes it a fun place to work,” she says. The rise in female barbers has generally been received positively, but there will always be some who do not embrace change. Sophie remembers on one occasion a client looking shocked when she introduced herself as his barber. “I love beards, but he was disappointed that I, a young woman, would be doing the service,” she remembers. “But after I looked after him and showed I cared about his beard and getting a great result, he now only lets me do his beard.” The Wild Hare’s Hayley has also found men cautious, but that this was changing. “I once did a 70-year-old man’s hair and it was the first time a woman had cut his hair,” she laughs. Sophie still gets get mixed reactions when she tells people what she does, but they are mostly positive. “You will always get people who doubt and don’t understand your passion. But it drives me to prove them wrong.” London School of Barbering’s Bryony got into barbering after a friend offered her a job in their barber shop. “I’d spent some time out of the industry, but my friend’s offer reignited my passion for hair,” she says. Bryony then attended a barbering course with London School of Barbering, before enjoying it so much that she became an educator at the school. She feels many clients actually enjoy it when they discover their barber is a woman. “It changes the atmosphere, while it’s quite calming to have different conversations,” she explains. “Some say they prefer having their cuts with female barbers as they pay more attention to detail.” And as most female barbers come from hairdressing backgrounds, it’s an opportunity to help barbering grow in a new direction. “Customer service is huge, it’s more than just a haircut it’s about the whole experience – something I definitely brought from my hairdressing past,” says Laura Howlett, who joined Ruffians in Edinburgh six years ago. “Barbers could learn more about how to style hair as well as colour techniques from hairdressers,” adds Andis’ Jessica. “It’s something that isn’t widely taught in classic barbering. On the flip side, hairdressers could learn about structure, balance and head shape from barbers.” When it comes to women considering entering barbering, Bryony advises: “Don’t worry about being female in a once male-dominated industry. Once you start doing your training, you will see that there are so many women learning the trade, too.” It’s also important to show women just where barbering can take them. “Between your clientele, being an educator or brand ambassador, editorial work, endorsement deals and so on, you can make a serious living as a barber,” says Jessica. As more women become barbers and more clients become accustomed to seeing women in barber shops, more and more female stylists will realise another avenue in the hairdressing world is open to them. As Jessica eloquently puts it: “Eventually, we won’t be classified as ‘female barbers’, we will just be ‘barbers’, too.” Mister Quarterly 11
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#TRENDING
LIVE AND KICKING FROM KIDS’ TV SHOW SLIME TO NATIONAL LOTTERY SHINE, MR Q GIVES YOU THE LOWDOWN ON THE LOOKS FROM THE LONDON FASHION WEEK: MEN A/W18 SEASON
LIAM HODGES Tina Outen for Fudge Professional The cheerful optimism of Saturday morning ’90s television was the inspiration for Liam Hodges’ latest show. Fudge Professional Hair Gum saturated models’ hair, then the new Fudge Professional Vinyl Pomade was applied to mould tendrils. Certain models were then slimed with green paste, while others had widow’s peaks drawn in for a David Byrne silhouette.
BLOOD BROTHER
Images courtesy of Fudge Professional, L’Oréal Professionnel, R+Co and Revlon Professional
Jan Przemyk for AOFM using R+Co
CHARLES JEFFREY John Vial for Revlon Professional
Queer identity, the masks we wear and the battle to stay grounded – Charles Jeffrey’s A/W18 show was an explosion of ideas based on both his Scottish heritage and his experience of growing up gay in a straight man’s world. Hair lead John Vial was inspired by the brash style of Martin Degville, lead singer of ’80s band Sigue Sigue Sputnik. Models sported two distinct wig shapes: a bowl cut with a ’70s feel, and a swirling mass of knotted hair tubes. The former required the hairpiece to be spritzed with Revlon Professional Double or Nothing Lissaver, blow-dried and pinned into place. For caricature volume, John used American Crew Tech Series Control Foam then backcombed the bottom sections, before smoothing over the top, placing it inside a hairnet and finishing with Revlon Professional Style Masters Hairspray Modular 2. The swirly hair was prefabricated and stuffed into fishnet tights, shaped into cylinders and then knotted and sewn together over a hairnet base.
For A/W18 Blood Brother, the National Lottery was the inspiration, exploring an Instant Win, Instant Lifestyle theme with high shine delivered by a generous dollop of R+Co gel Motorcycle Flexible Gel or R+Co Wall St Strong Hold Gel, and kept in place with R+Co Vicious Strong Hold. Each model was styled individually according to their cut, and hair dried using a diffuser.
TONSURE
Jonathan Soons and Gareth Williams for L’Oréal Professionnel Individualism is still a key trend for 2018 and this came through at Tonsure, with models handpicked for their diverse haircuts. Headmasters’ duo Jonathan Soons and Gareth Williams were tasked with keeping the hairstyles clean and minimal with light ’80s references, using Tecni.ART Scruff Me by L’Oréal Professionnel to create unique textures for each model in the line-up.
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PROMO
ENJOY THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE? Bed Head For Men knows that the modern man expects the best. He wants his products to be not only high-performing, but also adaptable. They need to be able to work for whatever style he chooses, on an any particular day – be it for work, the gym or going out in the evening. Bed Head for Men provides all this and more. Its latest collection – Cut, Style & Groom – demonstrates the versatility of the cuts Bed Head for Men stylists can provide, using the products in the range. The collection is made up of three cuts and styles, which are designed to show that every man is an individual. The collection has wide appeal, with each model styled in a distinctive way that’s easy to recreate at home using the product range. Ultimately, Bed Head for Men gives your male clients the freedom to express themselves to suit their mood and their lifestyle.
THE BACK-UP
IF YOU USE BED HEAD FOR MEN, YOU CAN EXPECT GORGEOUS GROOMING AND FIRST-CLASS EDUCATION:
MEN’S CLASSICS
MEN’S FOCUS
Build your confidence in cutting men’s hair by learning the foundations of male classic shapes.
Develop your skills in men’s cutting with a range of fashioninspired techniques, including scissor-over-comb and clippering.
Two days – Foundation Level 18 to 19 April and 28 to 29 November, £345
Two days – Intermediate level 10 to 11 September, £590
Want to offer a little luxury? Then you’ll love Bed Head for Men. To find out more, call 0844 844 0944 visit bedheadformen.com
Hair by Joshua Mascolo, John Harte & The London Barber. Photography by Alex Barron-Hough
SO DO YOUR MALE CLIENTS – YOU NEED A BRAND PARTNER THAT IS CONFIDENT, REFINED BUT WITH AN EDGE. BED HEAD FOR MEN BY TIGI IS THE ANSWER
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ONE OF THE BUSIEST NAMES IN MEN’S HAIR IS UNVEILING HIS OWN PRODUCT LINE. JODY TAYLOR REVEALS EXCLUSIVELY TO MR. Q WHY NOW IS THE TIME FOR TAYLORED LONDON PHOTOGRAPHY BY JON GORRIGAN Mister Quarterly 15
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Men’s grooming habits are changing: there has never been such a spotlight on gentleman’s style. It’s the perfect arena for the launch of Taylored London, a capsule collection of styling products using natural ingredients but delivering on performance. With Jody Taylor one of the founders, you know it’s going to be laser-focused on the modern man… Jody is a rare breed in the industry, celebrated by both traditional barbers and contemporary male groomers, with hair that displays exceptional technical skill but also illustrates an eye for fresh, modern style. It’s no wonder he’s become one of the busiest editorial men’s stylists around, published in Vogue, Esquire, GQ, ShortList, Antidote and Wonderland, and working backstage at fashion week shows for labels such as Hackett, YMC, Agi & Sam, Hardy Amies and Christopher Raeburn. Taylored London is small but perfectly formed – there is the matte paste and styling dust combo Peckham Dry; the clay and wax hybrid Hackney Slick; and a leave-in conditioner fused with a matte paste, Bethnal Sheen. Fragrances include vetiver, petitgrain and bergamot. This is serious styling – for men who know grooming matters. It’s all a far cry from Jody’s apprentice days at the Mayfair flagship of Toni&Guy. He studied under Anthony Mascolo, quickly becoming a key member of the Toni&Guy Artistic Team, travelling around the world for shows and education seminars. His love of education still burns bright, and he often travels to deliver bespoke education for salons.
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Hair: Jody Taylor for Taylored London. Styling: Andrew Davis
Having left Toni&Guy four years ago, the plan was to open his own shop. But when back from an extended US trip, he was able to say yes to the editorial work coming his way, so the shop idea was put on the back burner. On these shoots, Jody regularly mixed two or three products to get the undone finish he wanted. And following a conversation with a client, creative director Simon Crofts, they started working together on Jody’s products and Simon’s menswear collection simultaneously. With Taylored London, the plan is to start small and grow organically. “Because no one has been expecting it, I haven’t been rushing it,” he smiles. And those names? “We wanted to celebrate that it’s a London-based company. We were joking around one day, saying we were going to call one of them something about Peckham… it’s a matte product… Peckham Dry, not Rye!” he explains. “We then got the tube map out! Bethnal Sheen – that’s my favourite.” The plan is to sell online at tayloredlondon.com, which will be packed with content, including styling and step-by-steps. Beyond that, he’s considering luxury sites as well as one or two salons or barber shops – no over-saturation via Boots, thank you. “I want to create a brand that we’re proud of,” he states firmly. “I want to be low key and do great hair.” And just take a look at the imagery – no retouching, no focus on ‘perfect’ hair. It’s natural and authentic. It’s Taylor made, in every sense.
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SHOP TALK
POLE POSITION BARBER BARBER Barber Barber began five years ago, when Johnny Baba was approached by a customer-turned-friend who worked in property. He suggested setting up shop together in Barton Arcade in Manchester – and so the barber shop group was born. It is home to talents including Dale Ted Watkins, and has shops in Leeds, Liverpool, London’s Spitalfields Market and the Bull Ring in Birmingham. Now Johnny has just taken over Tommy Guns in Soho, rebranding it as the sixth addition to the Barber Barber family. “We don’t do trends or fashion – our customer has had all that,” explains Johnny. “Now he’s grown up and just wants a knowledgeable barber and great service.” This old-school dedication comes from Johnny’s roots in Limerick where he started working in a barber shop when he was just 11 years old. He’s courted controversy over the years – sparking debate over his no-women policy regarding cuts – but no matter which branch of Barber Barber you step into, you’re guaranteed the same level of excellence. “I have a very specific way of doing things,” says Johnny. “None of our barbers work on the shop floor until they reach a certain standard. It’s also important to continue your training once qualified, so we train our barbers every month.” Keen to share his unique philosophy, Johnny has just launched the Barber Barber Academy. Based in Manchester, it will teach the fundamental skills needed to get behind the chair in just six months. And that’s not all. “Barber Barber has a new store opening in Hale in Cheshire, and later this year we are launching the Barber Barber super store in Manchester,” Johnny reveals. “It will be a full gentleman’s emporium, complete with a jeweller, tailor and perfumery.” Just try and stop him.
Dale Ted Watkins
Johnny Baba
WITH NEW SHOPS SPRINGING UP AS FAST AS YOU CAN BLINK, AND A NEW ACADEMY TO BOOT, MEET THE BARBERING GROUP THAT JUST CAN’T STOP GROWING
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CORDLESS DETAILER
Introducing the NEW Cordless Detailer as part of the Wahl 5 Star Series - the specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers and trimmers created to bring state of the art technology right to your barbershop or salon. EXTENDED WIDE RANGE DETAILING
UNIQUE ADJUSTABLE TAPER LEVER ENABLES TRIMMING, BLENDING AND TAPERING OF THE HAIRLINE
EXTRA WIDE TSHAPED BLADES
PRODUCE FASTER CUTTING RESULTS THAN STANDARD TRIMMER BLADES ENABLING SUPER CLOSE TRIMMING, OUTLINES AND ACCURATE DETAIL WORK
CORDLESS
TO PROVIDE FLEXIBILITY AND FREEDOM OF USE WHEREVER YOU ARE
LIVE IN SESSION! 31/05/18, LONDON
BACKSTAGE INSIGHT – SESSION TIPS AND TECHNIQUES – LOOKS YOUR CLIENTS WILL LOVE! MEET THE GUEST ARTISTS AND WATCH THEM WORK – LIVE ON SET!
SAM BURNETT & REBECCA CHANG
2017
2017 WINNER THE IT GIRL
He’s a regular hair team lead at LFW, styles celebrities including Daisy Lowe, Laura Whitmore and Charli XCX, owns a successful salon in London’s West End and he’s our 2017 Most Wanted Hair Trend champion!
She assisted Guido at the shows, is now a firm fixture on Gary Gill’s backstage team and she’s the styling director for SENZI Education – she also scooped the It Girl crown at the 2017 It List Awards!
TICKETS £30 – BUY NOW! L 01434 610416 AG.COM/STOREngORandCAL CREATIVEHEADM a gift from BaByliss PRO on arrival, drinks all eveni Includes canapés
THE COTERIE: IN SESSION THURSDAY 31 MAY 2018 7PM UNTIL 10PM, LONDON The Coterie – Creative HEAD’s networking event for hair and fashion professionals creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
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r y t Mee
PERSONAL MENTOR
Image courtesy of Toni&Guy
WE ALL WISH WE COULD HAVE OUR VERY OWN GURU TO GUIDE US, ESPECIALLY WHEN ENTERING AWARDS. THE NEW WELLA PROFESSIONALS MEET THE MENTORS PROGRAMME AIMS TO DO JUST THIS – IT’S THE PERFECT SUPPORT FOR ANYONE ENTERING TRENDVISION AWARD 2018
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the photographic stage to the International Final, entering this award is your chance to share a stage with hairdressing legends. Compete to win amazing prizes with your own vision, with a once-in-a-lifetime mentoring experience at the International Final in Lisbon. You need to make sure your entry is the very best it can be – and it starts with the Meet the Mentors programme. On this digital programme, you’ll discover everything you need to make your entry memorable, from how to create a brilliant moodboard, tips on picking the right model and how to capture your photographic heat entry shot, to how to enter on a tight budget and, most importantly, what the judges are looking for. Speaking from their own experience, the mentors will provide top tips, enabling you to reach your full potential. A Paul damcz
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Bruce Masefi
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
A GOOD MENTOR is hard to come by, but once you have found them, they’ll change your life forever. Take Louise Wilson OBE – the late design director at Central Saint Martins trained generations of designers, including Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, illustrating that the importance of mentoring cannot be underestimated. Wella Professionals knows this, which is why its launched a digital mentoring programme for TrendVision Award 2018. The Meet the Mentors programme gives every single hairdresser the opportunity to learn and grow. In fact, for the very first time, every entrant will have access to a unique digital mentoring programme. Wella Professionals’ TrendVision Award is renowned for showcasing a fusion of hair, fashion and creativity. From
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Follow TrendVision Award 2018 on social media using the hashtag, #WELLATVA CREATIVE HEAD
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@wellahairuk
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: W O N K NEED TO NONTOURING IT’S THE YEAR OF COLOUR TECHNIQUES AND COME SUMMER ALL ANYONE WILL BE TALKING ABOUT, USING AND ASKING FOR, IS NONTOURING SHIFT BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS
IT’S ALL ABOUT techniques this year, with colour choice taking a back seat in favour of how a shade is applied. Instagram is awash with balayages, contouring and even ombres are making a comeback. But what’s next? Nontouring. Predicted by Wella Professionals, nontouring is a softer take on contouring, harmonising the lines of a hair style and mellowing even the most daring cut into a wearable, flattering look. Andreas Kurkowitz, Wella Professionals global colour ambassador, describes it as “perfect to use in a salon environment”. But what makes nontouring so exciting is that it “combines cut and colour in a way you haven’t seen before”, he adds. It uses colour to harmonise contrasts, making even the edgiest style flattering, regardless of gender. Wella Professionals’ S/S18 colour trend, Nontouring Shift, encapsulates the nontouring technique – it uses the best elements of contouring but in a softer way. To bring the trend to life in-salon, Wella Professionals has developed a simple three-step service: prime (a personalised cut), cover (using an on-trend colour) and highlight (with style fluidity – where the client chooses to express themselves regardless of gender). Techniques are all-important this year, but to really nail Nontouring Shift, the palette should be warm and golden as there’s a move away from cooler, candy colours this season.
NONTOURING SHIFT CAN BE ACHIEVED USING THESE HAIR HEROES FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS
ring Shift by Take your colour techniques to the next level with Nontou ion.wella.com educat visit or 7045775 Wella Professionals. To find out more, call 0845
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NEW
s n o Ic for 2018
Dates SCOTLAND & NORTH EAST Mon 14 May GLASGOW, Hilton Glasgow
NORTH Tue 15 May MANCHESTER, Hilton Manchester
SOUTH
O N
LI VE
S T A G E !
TRENDVISON AWARD 2018 MENTORS
Mon 21 May LONDON, Grand Connaught Rooms
GLASGOW & MANCHESTER
MIDLANDS Tue 22 May BIRMINGHAM, Hilton Birmingham Metropole
Tickets Early bird available from £30 each excl VAT
Bruce Masefield
Darren Ambrose
Akin Konizi
Leonardo Rizzo
Robert Eaton
LONDON & BIRMINGHAM
BOOK NOW! 0845 601 8128 wellaevents@cotyinc.com
Follow us
For the latest TrendVision Award news follow: www.wella.co.uk/trendvision @WellaUK #WellaTVA
Paul Adamczuk
Jayson Gray
Bruno Marc
Cos Sakkas
Charlie Taylor
Join us for an evening of inspiration from our TrendVision Award 2018 Mentors showcasing their latest collections
@WellaHairUK #WellaTVA
and watch the TrendVision Award 2018 UK Finalists be announced live on stage.
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THEY’VE
GOT
IT!
HAIRDRESSING IS A UNIQUE INDUSTRY; WHILE MANY PROFESSIONS ONLY REWARD EXPERIENCE, WE OFTEN FIND THAT THE MOST EXCITING IDEAS AND INGENIOUS INNOVATIONS ARRIVE FROM THE UP-AND-COMERS. SO, EVERY YEAR, CREATIVE HEAD GATHERS THE MOST EXCITING EMERGING TALENT AGED 30 AND UNDER AT THE IT LIST AWARDS, SPONSORED BY GHD, TO CELEBRATE THEIR DEDICATION TO THE CRAFT. MEET THE CURRENT CROP – THE FUTURE OF THE INDUSTRY IS IN SAFE HANDS...
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#TheItList
THE RISING STAR
Y E V R A H E I C R A D KEEP YOUR EYE ON THIS ONE – HER CAREER IS ASCENDING AT THE SPEED OF LIGHT…
YOU CAN’T ACCUSE Darcie Harvey of not being dedicated to hairdressing. The assistant at Brooks & Brooks has literally put everything she has into her craft, down to her very last penny. “I was offered a last-minute opportunity to assist on a Wonderland shoot, and used the last £3 on my Oyster card to get there,” Darcie recalls. “I worked through without eating and realised I had no money to get back home. I managed to beg a bus driver for a free ride. Winning The Rising Star award made me feel like I’d finally been recognised for all these times...” Sally Brooks, co-founder of Brooks & Brooks, recognises this drive in her prodigy: “Darcie is what we call a ‘yes girl’,” Sally says. “She always says ‘yes’ first and then works out how she can do it. It doesn’t matter if it’s 4am on a Sunday or late at night, she will be there with bells on... probably before we are!” Indeed, this Rising Star spends every Sunday collaborating with a photographer, and spends half of her holidays on work opportunities. She has assisted Takuya Morimoto, Tommy
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Taylor and Takuya Uchiyama on shows and is fast becoming a regular backstage at London Fashion Week. “Marlon Hawkins, a member of the artistic team at Brooks & Brooks, was asked to assist Adam Reed on the Haizhen Wang show – however Marlon was fully booked,” Darcie recalls. “So instead, Sally sent me – an assistant instead of a top stylist!” This was Darcie’s second time entering the Rising Star category and her award hasn’t gone unnoticed. “Winning the accolade has made it easier to get jobs at Fashion Week, plus getting models for my training,” she says. “Also, I’ve been given incredible education days, cutting with Christopher Brooker and styling with Adam Reed – two of my hair idols!” It seems then that her blossoming career is everything Darcie always hoped it would be. “When I was 15 I read a newspaper article that hairdressers were the happiest employees and I thought ‘well, all I want is to be happy so I’ll do that’,” she remembers. “And now I can definitely vouch for that!”
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THE VISIONARY
N A M E L O C Y E S CA A DARK COLLECTION PAVED THE WAY TO SUCCESS, SELF-BELIEF AND A NEW SALON BRAND FOR THIS HAIR OBSESSIVE…
CASEY COLEMAN’S BIG WIN at the 2017 It List Awards brought many things, but the most meaningful was the boost in confidence that helped the Cardiff hairdresser open his very own salon. “Because my winning Visionary collection was based on mental health struggles, it was important that I really took in how big a deal winning this award was,” Casey reflects. “I needed to congratulate myself and encourage myself to use this new-found confidence in a productive way, and that’s how CHAIR Salons was born. You could almost say that I wouldn’t be self-employed now if I hadn’t entered and won.” That’s a big endorsement of The It List, but it’s also a bricks and mortar reality: Casey opened CHAIR on Valentine’s Day this year. It’s the first salon in Wales with gender
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neutral pricing, and the response has been nothing but positive. “It took a lot of time, money and effort, but I’m almost 100 per cent booked up,” he smiles. “I have big plans for the salon and the impact I wish to make on the industry. I can’t wait to collaborate with a few of my industry mates!” Launching a salon isn’t all Casey has achieved in light of his win. “The It List has literally catapulted my career,” Casey grins. “I’ve been approached by production companies to take part in new TV programmes, I’ve been able to tick off bucket list goals, such as speaking at The Coterie alongside some of my idols, I’ve been asked to be a PAINTER for Creative HEAD’s PAINT platform, and it’s even helped me to work on campaigns for cosmetic companies!”
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#TheItList
Impressive stuff, but Casey recognises that successes like these don’t come without hard work and determination. “I’ll just say this – I tried three years in a row for The Visionary award. The first year I got through but didn’t quite get it. The second year I entered I didn’t even get through, so I changed my approach!” The result of this new direction was Defiance, a collection that explores the deep and often dark recesses of the mind, taking inspiration from Alexander McQueen and performance artist Leigh Bowery. “Going into 2017, I just wanted to do a collection that was purely for my own enjoyment, expression and lust for this craft,” Casey explains. “I was very thorough and spent hours preparing, so when it came to the day, it went amazingly well. When you put so much emotion, enthusiasm and passion into a project, it’s hard not to want to share it, and that’s when I decided to enter it into The Visionary.” And if you want a taste of that sweet Visionary success for yourself this year, Casey has valuable advice. “Push yourself and surround yourself with helpful and encouraging people,” he suggests. “Then you’ll get what you’ve been fighting for!”
SEE Casey in action on PAINT! creativeheadmag.com/paint
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BACKSTAGE PASS AT THE READY – IT’S ACCESS ALL AREAS FOR THIS HAIR HERO…
L’Officiel
N A M R O G ’ O MICHAEL
THE FASHIONISTA
Glass
ONE DAY, Michael O’Gorman made the decision to pursue a career as a session stylist. Fastforward four years and he’s standing on the stage at The It List awards, lifting The Fashionista trophy, awarded to the most promising young session hairdresser. It’s been a whirlwind few years, and the session regular, based at Taylor Taylor London, still can’t quite believe his luck. “That decision turned out to be one the best I have ever made,” Mike explains. “In my mind the only way to really make it happen was to commit full-time and try to assist as many hairstylists as possible, taking on any job and saying yes to everything that came my way. I realised I had so much to learn, not only technically but in changing the way I viewed hair and beauty.” After only a few months, Mike landed the role as Neil Moodie’s first assistant. This was an invaluable experience, which took him all around the world, both styling on set and on location. “This was a pivotal point in my development as I started to learn the ins and outs of what it takes to work at that top level,” he says. Since then, he’s also been first assistant for Gary Gill, and assisted Duffy, James Rowe, Paul Hanlon, James Pecis, Cyndia Harvey and Eugene Souleiman, giving him an understanding of the different ways these icons work. “I love being on set and, especially in the early days, I loved seeing how different people would approach hair and bring their vision to life,” Mike explains.
#TheItList
“I also really enjoyed spending the day with Adam Reed and the other It List winners during the ghd workshop. Adam’s career and passion for the industry is truly inspiring.” And what does the future hold for our Fashionista? “It’s really important to me that I’m working towards finding a voice and identity through my work,” he explains. “This is something I admire a huge amount in the other hairdressers that are leading the way in fashion. For me, working on the hair in an image is a huge opportunity to enhance that picture. “Whether that is through the subtle details or a louder statement, the hair is a giant part of storytelling. I hope to continue telling stories for years to come.” We can’t wait for the next chapter.
His own work has graced the pages of Vogue, Grazia and Hunger and he recently took the helm at the Richard James show at London Fashion Week: Men, his first ever leading role. Mike has also assisted on almost 200 shows, including Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga and Maison Margiela. Could he pick a highlight from this roster of designers? “Assisting Paul Hanlon on the Gucci shows has been phenomenal,” Mike recalls. “As a hairdresser, I can’t think of another show I’d rather work on. With an average model count of 125, and every girl having her own bespoke look, it’s out of this world.” This hard work ensured that the judges picked him as the most exciting young session star in UK – and he hasn’t slowed down since the big win. “Since winning The Fashionista award, my session work has continued to provide some incredible opportunities and experiences,” Mike says. “In the past few months I’ve had work published in Japanese Vogue and cover stories for Kinfolk and Wonderland. I’ve just finished up assisting at the A/W18 fashion season, working on shows including Thom Browne, Moschino and Maison Margiela to name a few.
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R U E N E R P E R T N THE E TON
L I H A I H P SO
BUSINESS – G IN M O O B DA L SALON AN U IF T U A E B E WINNER… N ,A O IR E A B H Y T L H N IG BR LD O THERE COU
TO PICK OUT just one feat as Sophia Hilton’s greatest achievement would be impossible. The owner of Not Another Salon on London’s Brick Lane smashed Creative HEAD records and took home four trophies at the 2017 Most Wanted and It List Awards Grand Final; showcasing not just her enviable creativity, but also a savvy brain for business. So what makes this salon in East London so special? “Our mission statement is to create an environment where staff and clients feel free and confident to be themselves,” says Sophia. This all-inclusive philosophy ensured that Not Another Salon has risen to become the most followed salon on Instagram in the UK without its own consumer product line, with 192k followers. And Sophia has ensured that her social media expertise (she doesn’t employ a social media manager, instead opting to take the reins herself), is also used for good. She is hoping to reverse some of the damage caused by unrealistic expectations; a post she wrote about the pitfalls of
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creating grey hair was shared 1,253 times by salons all around the world. Just check out some of her thoughts on Creative HEAD’s PAINT platform, where Ms Hilton is a PAINTER, part of a collective of colourists keen to support and inspire their peers. And there’s an economic advantage to all those followers too. “Some people overlook the financial benefit to a high following,” Sophia explains. “About 80 per cent of our new clients come from Instagram, keeping a constant flow of new business. We now don’t pay for several of our biggest expenses. We get product for tags – Salon Direct provides foil, capes and gloves, Crazy Color provides colour and Innoluxe provides the bonding agent. This comes to a value of £50,000 a year.” Thanks to the huge success of her “Perfect Bleed” technique, which captured the market for a high end alternative to the DIY dip dye, Sophia was able to open Not
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#TheItList
Sophia has LOTS to share about colour and business on PAINT! Check it out on creativeheadmag.com/paint
PAINT
Another Academy just four months after opening the salon. Teaching 60 students per month, there are huge waiting lists and the Not Another Salon methods have been taught in five countries; as a result, education runs at a 82.5 per cent profit, and Sophia will be diversifying her teachings by launching a seminar on how to run social media this year. The only marketing campaign Not Another Salon has ever created only cost £2,000 and featured five real clients talking about their lives. “The purpose was for potential customers to gain an understanding
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of how diverse our client base is,” says Sophia. “From a business perspective, we cornered smaller demographics that are often not targeted, scooping up missed markets and turning it into profit.” But of course, as always with Not Another Salon, there’s also an element of social consciousness. “These videos bring forward issues such as stereotyping, sexism, hidden illnesses, anxiety, sexuality and even sex work to light – so no one would feel that they didn’t fit in after watching them.” That’s the genius of Not Another Salon – anyone can be in the gang.
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Italian Vogue
Prelude Senzi
THE IT GIRL
REBECCA CHANG
Mulberry Trunk Show
CALVIN KLEIN, ALEXANDER WANG, BALENCIAGA – THIS SESSION STAR’S CV READS LIKE AN ABC OF FASHION…
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Russian Vogue
Italian Vogue
Mulberry Trunk Show
#TheItList
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after the event, I got up and had to double check the award to see if it was real,” Rebecca laughs. Does she have any advice for budding It Listers for 2018? “Highlight everything you have done and achieved so far, even if it’s the smallest thing in your career,” she says. “Don’t be shy about telling your story.” Since her win, Rebecca has hardly had time to polish that trophy thanks to her jetset life, styling at some of the biggest shows in the world. “I headed the Mulberry Trunk show S/S18 during Paris Fashion Week for the first time – Gary believed that I could deliver to his standards and trusted me to lead the hair team,” she says. “It was one of the highlights of my year!” In fact, Gary has been so impressed by Rebecca’s work that he asked her to be part of his core team. “This means being really involved with the creative process,” Rebecca continues. “This was one of my goals and I’m ecstatic about it!” And she’s in demand: “Soichi Inagaki joined Art Partner and has asked me to be his first assistant, which is an honour for me,” Rebecca says. And she has also just taken on a new role as styling director for Senzi, the international cutting education brand. It’s clear that along with a love for hair, Rebecca also believes in creating a legacy. “Sharing my experiences and knowledge gives me a sense of pride and also responsibility. This is my love, this is my objective.”
Mulberry Trunk Show
Russian Vogue
Mulberry Trunk Show
NOT MANY HAIRDRESSERS can name Christopher Kane as the first ever show they styled at – but Rebecca Chang isn’t your average hairdresser. Having made the leap from Mumbai to London, Rebecca trained at Toni&Guy, quickly earning herself three promotions in two years and becoming a finalist at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy. From there, Rebecca moved to Salako in London’s West End in 2013, to learn from session legend Jimo Salako. This introduced her to some of the most renowned stars of the session world; in particular Guido and Gary Gill, who have enlisted her expertise as part of their teams. “Rebecca has a great eye for detail and style,” says Gary. “Her commitment to her craft and the hairdressing and fashion industry is fantastic.” Following her debut at Christopher Kane, Rebecca has gone on to work at fashion giants such as Valentino, Dior, Coach and Prada. She was also asked by Gary Gill to produce the S/S17 Vetements show. “As producer, your main goal is to ensure that everything runs smoothly – even though it’s impossible!” Rebecca explains. How does she deal with these pinch-yourself experiences? “No matter what, the key is to enjoy myself every moment,” says Rebecca. “Stay grounded and work hard – aim to do one thing better than yesterday. Always be kind no matter what, and embrace failure with a smile.” This wealth of experience ensured that Rebecca scooped The It Girl trophy at the 2017 It List Awards. “The day
SEE Rebecca alongside Sam Burnett at The Coterie: In Session on 31 May. Buy tickets at creativeheadmag.com/store 81
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Revlon Professional
House of Hol land
Eyewear
L’Oréal Colour Trophy
THE IT GUY
KY WILSON IT WAS A VICTORY THAT WAS YEARS IN THE MAKING – FINALLY, KY HAS BEEN CROWNED KING
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#TheItList
IT WAS NO SURPRISE to anyone that Ky Wilson won the 2017 It Guy award – least of all to Ky himself. “It was my sixth time entering – it was about time that I won,” he laughs. “It got to that time when I felt like I couldn’t do anything more.” The award was presented to him by former boss Adam Reed at Ky’s first ever sober awards ceremony: “My baby was due the next day, so I wasn’t sure if I’d be able to go at all!” he admits. So why was it sixth-time lucky? “People often try to do things too early, and I’m a sucker for that,” Ky explains. “I don’t think I had enough work when I first entered, but I did know that you had to present it in a good way – judges have so many entries to read!” Winning The It Guy award has given Ky the credence needed to work with top brands; he has taught for Davines and L’Oréal Professionnel (and won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Mens Image Award in 2017), and is making a name for himself doing platform work for BaByliss PRO. He recently launched a wig course with Luke Pluckrose from Saks, which he plans to run at least every two months, and then there’s the education in his salons, The Social. Every Monday and Tuesday the latest techniques are taught, but be careful
what you call his educational pursuits: “I hate the word ‘academy’,” he says. “This is not something you can get on the high street.” When Ky was building The Social, he slept behind the backwash, working all day and much of the night to redefine the salon experience as we know it. He has now has relocated his London branch of The Social to allow more space for his famous collaborations to flourish. “The new space is much more appealing,” Ky says. “There are multiple freelance hairdressers coming in each day, and they can secure a chair for a day or for a week. There are also yoga classes and a photo studio that can be booked out.” Although he has fitted right into East London, his home in the Lake District is still important to Ky. He travels back up to his Kendal salon every month, and his next plan is to progress his work there. “I really want to crack it up in the North,” he says. We can also expect to see plenty more of the things that makes Ky’s vision so unique; innovative work with other people who inspire him: “I’ve spent the last few years building bricks and mortar – I’m looking forward to doing more of the really fun stuff.”
DO YOU DREAM BIG? Want to be
on The It List 2018? For details, visit creativeheadmag.com/theitlist. Deadline is 21 May!
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FEEL SO REAL
Consider the imagery shot for many salons on expensive photoshoots; just how much of it speaks to the end consumer? It’s likely to be something that’s been airbrushed to the point of being alien-like in its results and designed with impressing other hairdressers in mind… all for several thousands of pounds. And, if used in the windows of a salon, it could end up discouraging a client from walking in. With the growth of social media, this reliance on fake-looking shoots seems increasingly bizarre. Often it’s the in-salon transformation captured on a stylist’s phone and shared on Instagram that attracts more client interest than any expensive studio shoot. So it makes a great deal of sense that Dale Herne and Angelo Vallillo, the founders of Nottingham’s DNA ARTSPACE, have decided to merge the two – and these are the first results. “We shot this collection on an iPhone, and we want to challenge people around the world to do the same thing,” explains Angelo. “I’m sick of the over-editing you see on hair shoots. We used normal girls who did their own make-up and wore their own clothes. We wanted to capture their personalities.” It’s a battle cry from Angelo, who wants his peers to remember one vital detail. “Hairdressers are not taking into account their own clients,” he sighs. “It has to be about them!” In fact, all the girls in this shoot are DNA ARTSPACE clients, shot in the salon in a dedicated studio space. “We want to get away from the generic salon,” he says. “This is a space to inspire clients and staff.” So far, Angelo has secured two other names to grab their phones and take up this challenge – Shay Dempsey at EDEN by Eden Sassoon in LA, and Ben Russell at Biba in Australia – and we’ll be sharing the results on creativeheadmag.com this month. Just think what your salon can achieve, with that little metal rectangle sitting in your pocket. It’s time to put your creativity in focus...
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HAIR Dale Herne and Angelo Vallillo, DNA ARTSPACE
It's over to you!
Want to step up to Angelo’s challenge? Show us what you can do with your iPhone… and the best work will be featured by Creative HEAD! Share your shots with amanda@alfol.co.uk
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Essential Looks
Scene Tyler Johnston
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
FUTURE forward
Amsterdam was the venue for the European show of Schwarzkopf Professional’s legendary Essential Looks, and while it was a whistle-stop visit, there was plenty to get your teeth into. Schwarzkopf Professional global ambassadors, Tyler Johnston and Lesley Jennison, wowed with their 2018 take on the looks, called REinventing Hair. Full of references to cultural rebels and the real and authentic, Essential Looks for 2018 also celebrates a new multicultural generation where attitude is everything. Spanish stars X-Presion delivered a mesmerising show that featured the team’s iconic pixelated colour technique, while Toni&Guy Netherlands, led by the UK’s Indira Schauwecker alongside Philipp Haug and Stuart Matuska, presented Future Wise, a show that was packed with vintage styling references and inspiration from the latest Gucci campaign. Plenty of Dutch courage and no mistake.
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X-Presion
Toni&Guy
X-Presion
Lesley Jennison CREATIVE HEAD
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Chris Foster, Mr Sam Wall and Lisa Jackson
FULL
And the UK winners are… 1ST PLACE: Mr Sam Wall, Hidden Heights Creative Studio 2ND PLACE: Aimee McPherson, Hidden Heights Creative Studio 3RD PLACE: Harry Rushton, Francesco Group Shrewsbury
throttle YOU COULDN’T HAVE selected a better venue for the UK and Ireland final of the American Crew All Star Challenge than Shoreditch’s The Bike Shed, an exclusive club for motorcycle enthusiasts that includes ultra-cool barbershop, Thy Barber. Guests enjoyed a packed evening hosted by former Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist, Chris Foster. After meeting all the judges (including Creative HEAD and Mr. Q editor, Amanda Nottage) finalists enjoyed a pomade-heavy show from Ian Harrold, before Marcus King, founder of new salon The King and I, showed off a trio of textured models. Perennial favourite Baldy also hit the stage to celebrate the brand’s Americana collection. Then it was time to reveal the winners, with American Crew UK and Ireland general manager, Lisa Jackson, joining Chris on stage to open the all-important envelopes and see who goes on to the next round of judging. Will they make it to the global final in Barcelona? Fingers crossed…
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My #Afrof uture collection in the salon
It was an honour to work with @lilybw @alcas elyhay ford @anna rosejay for @refine ry29uk
Rich winter copper for @mahaneela . jpg cut and coloured by me
In the
Blast from the past! 2007 in Cape Coast, Ghan a
frame Charlotte Mensah (@charlottemensah), founder of Hair Lounge in west London, snaps away
#CharlotteM ensahM ankett iOil fa mily is growing... more to come!
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Style crush Saturd ay! The gorgeou s @jenell a-powell We love curls!
R ecom m en ded in @ sty listm ag azin e as Bea uty D ire ct or’ s Ch oic e 94
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Fanta stic write-up in @the ststyle about @olivepom etsey visit to #Ha irLou nge
Hon ouri ng The Art Form of African Ha ir Threading for @re fine ry29uk
F irst round of judging @lorealpro #LCT18 Awards CREATIVE HEAD
16/03/2018 11:15
1/2 PRICE 1ST TASTE TRIAL PACK GUARANTEED YOU’LL LOVE V2 OR TWICE YOUR MONEY BACK
£45, Now £22.50
i
Was
“INNOluxe V2 takes it further than I thought was possible. V2 works inside and out, it rebuilds the hair like never before, but equally important, the client’s going to really feel it.” SOPHIA HILTON, FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF NOT ANOTHER SALON
GET YOURS NOW DISCOUNT CODE 1ST-16-03-CH www.innoluxe.com/1st-taste 1st Taste includes ReBond V2 x 100ml, Balance Plus V2 x 250ml, Elixir V2 x 100ml
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Terms and conditions apply. 1 per salon. Call 0330 088 2226 within 10 days if you do not think that INNOluxe V2 is the best bond additive treatment. Offer ends 31.05.18
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