£4.50 APRIL 2022
In print•online•everywhere!
BLONDES MEAN
BUSINESS
BOSS THE BLONDING TRILOGY OF TRENDS,TECHNIQUE AND TEAM 001_COVERNJ6.indd 2
24/03/2022 14:17
IT’S TIME TO TAKE CONTROL OF THE CHANGING COLOUR LANDSCAPE AND SHOWCASE YOUR AUTHORITY AS THE TRUE BLONDING PROFESSIONAL BLONDE SERVICES ARE hugely popular and no amount of DIY home hair colour can entice clients to attempt recreating a balayage at home. The professional expertise, the in-salon experience and the desire to feel more confident are among the top reasons why someone chooses professional colour.* Nearly three-quarters of women opted for a blonding service when they returned to the salon after lockdown,* relying on the professional experience to achieve their dream results. But it’s not just highlights they’re after; colourists are seeing the rise of more natural colour finishes that grow out naturally – and that means one thing: balayage. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris launched French Balayage to help
001_COVERNJ6.indd 3
you capitalise on this surge, and to help restore more regular visits to the salon for balayage clients, as well as empowering you to deliver beautiful results on all bases and hair types. Fears of damage and obvious-looking colour are swept away when clients see the seamless results of professional balayage. Balayage is the rising trend to capitalise on and tempt in either lapsed or curious colour clients. In-salon balayage services are experiencing huge growth, surpassing the increase in more traditional services such as highlights and all-over colour.* So tap into the latest trends, the latest techniques, and develop your team via the latest education to unlock the power of French Balayage from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris.
*Colour U&A, September 2021, 2CV – females aged 16+, n= 4119. **After Dia Light application on bleached hair.
GET PROFESSIONAL
21/03/2022 15:55
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
BOSS IT WITH BALAYAGE TURN ONE OF THE HOTTEST HAIR TRENDS INTO YOUR NUMBER ONE TECHNIQUE WITH THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS FRENCH BALAYAGE TWO-STEP PROCESS
STEP ONE
STEP TWO
Prepare, lighten and lift with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Metal Detox and specialist Blond Studio lightening products – there’s an option for every hair type and every client.
Neutralise and tone with Dia Light, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ unique acidic gloss, and add eye-catching shine with Dia Light Clear. Offer a luxurious French Balayage finish with no ammonia and no lift that leaves the hair up to 30 per cent more conditioned.** Customise the result with a shade palette that runs from warm beige to cool ash.
SEAMLESS LIGHTENING
“Blond Studio 7 Lightening Clay Powder is my go-to lightener. Its versatility means I can adapt it to any blonding technique. Its creamy texture makes application easy, I can place the product exactly where I need it.”
ANDREW FEVE, ANTI.DOTE “I love the speed and clarity of lift with Blond Studio 9 Levels, safeguarding the condition and strength of the hair.”
KAREN DODDS, CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE
NOURISHING GLOSS
“The new Dia Light Clear is perfect for an even toner application. When mixed with Dia Light shade 7.3 it can take you from rich, warm gold to a softer hue reminiscent of ’70s glamour.”
VAS MIKELLIDES, FOWLER 35 “I love Dia Light 9.02 and 10.12 for a frosted blonde, and my go-to for a copper glaze would be 7.43.”
AMBER SWIFT, CHARLIE MILLER
SCAN ME!
DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE NEW AND IMPROVED DIA LIGHT CLEAR
001_COVERNJ6.indd 4
21/03/2022 15:55
IT’S A JOURNEY, NOT A DESTINATION MARLON HAWKINS, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AT BROOKS & BROOKS, SHOWS US HOW THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS FRENCH BALAYAGE JOURNEY INCREASES CLIENT VISIT FREQUENCY. CHECK OUT @MARLONJHAWKINS FOR EVEN MORE INSPIRATION!
APPOINTMENT 1
APPOINTMENT 2
APPOINTMENT 3
APPOINTMENT 4
“Identifying a French Balayage client is easy! The technique is open to near enough everyone, creating multi-tonal hair. The consultation is my favourite part of my service as I get to listen to my client’s ideas. Metal Detox is the perfect pre-treatment for the client’s first and subsequent appointments. Blond Studio 7 Lightening Clay Powder is my go-to because its consistency helps create seamless blends.”
“We are always battling colour fade. Refreshing even low-maintenance colour clients with gloss helps bring tone and vibrancy back into the hair. I love developing trends and translating colour in different ways, working commercially or creatively. My favourite Dia Light toner is 10.32, I love the mix of cool and warm that allows you to create a natural, varnished finish for your client.”
“Every time I do a balayage service it’s never the same. I adapt my techniques to keep the look feeling new, with face-framing refreshes, maybe some new highlights or tip-outs, and a tweak of toner shades. Less is more and less doesn’t mean cheaper, because we’re constantly educating ourselves to deliver the best hair and expertise.”
“Selling healthy hair is effortless; my number one priority is condition, and this quick and easy appointment is about maximising that ahead of more colour. I never feel like I am ‘selling’, it’s about results. Metal Detox is the perfect treatment if you are also colouring as part of this appointment – it’s so efficient and helps to reduce breakage.”
FRENCH BALAYAGE – THE JOURNEY BEGINS
TOP-UP TONER – KEEP BRASS AT BAY
REFINE AND CONTOUR – COLOUR REFRESH SERVICES
TRIM AND TREAT – PREP FOR THE NEXT FULL BALAYAGE
RINSE AND REPEAT – INSTEAD OF A ONE-AND-DONE SERVICE, YOU NOW HAVE A MULTI-STEP JOURNEY
001_COVERNJ6.indd 5
23/03/2022 11:13
LOOK, WITH 65 PER CENT R EI TH UP GE AN CH TO G IN S LOOK D-FOCUSED AND ARE ALWAY RIS GUEST ARTIST HARRIET STOKES EN TR Y EL EM TR EX E AR TS PA BALAYAGE CLIEN NT. L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL OW ME RI PE EX TO EN KE * TS IEN AD OF BALAYAGE CL TREND: FRENCH BALAYAGE SH ST TE LA E TH S SE US SC DI T) (PICTURED, RIGH
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
S W O D A H IN THE S WHY DO YOU THINK WE CONTINUE TO SEE A BOOM IN THE BALAYAGE TREND? HARRIET STOKES: Balayage keeps evolving as trends are changing, but one thing that remains the same is a love for the effortless, low-maintenance side of balayage as well as the natural looking, lived-in colour result that our clients are always seeking. WHAT IS FRENCH BALAYAGE SHADOW? HS: Compared with the original, French Balayage, French Balayage Shadow features more dramatic lightening, enclosing in foil for maximum lift rather than opting for an openair technique. Then, when toning the hair, two formulas are used to create a bespoke result: a deeper shade at the root, and a lighter shade on mid-lengths and ends.
*Colour U&A, September 2021, 2CV – females aged 16+, n= 4119
WHY IS FRENCH BALAYAGE SHADOW A KEY SERVICE TO HELP CAPTURE CLIENT ATTENTION? HS: Clients are being more experimental with their haircuts and embracing more layers and texture. French Balayage Shadow is the perfect colour technique to complement that, as it offers a more impactful colour placement with high contrast. WHICH PRODUCTS DID YOU USE TO CREATE THE CAMPAIGN LOOK? HS: I used Blond Studio 9 Levels Bonder Inside for high lift and bond protection, lightening in a vertical motion for a seamless transition into fully saturated ends for extreme lightening. I followed that with a deeper Dia Light 7.01 at the root to shadow, and Dia Light 9.13 on the ends, ensuring that I blended the two together seamlessly throughout. HOW DO YOU MANAGE CLIENT BLONDING EXPECTATIONS? HS: Booking a separate consultation prior to any hair appointment is key! It will allow you to get to know them and create a hair plan together, without any time pressure to start the colour service. Ask them to bring in picture references of looks they like and dislike to help you both.
001_COVERNJ6.indd 6
HARRIET’S TOP TIPS FOR RECRUITING CLIENTS WITH SOCIAL MEDIA want to at tract. • Post what you ll isting clients wi Potential and ex d at you post an be inspired by wh e same! of ask for more th ients on what • Educate your cl ices entail to rv your different se r expectations, help manage thei e in before they com crucial! Develop • Consistency is k of posts and stic a st yle or format r updates to it, with regula s, follow • For more top tip kes to _s et @harri
24/03/2022 14:18
GIVE THEM GREAT
HAIR
THE ENDURING TREND OF BALAYAGE IS YOUR HOOK TO REEL CLIENTS IN – BUT THEN IT’S UP TO YOU TO KEEP THEM ON THE LINE. TO DO THAT YOU NEED TO GIVE THEM A CONSULTATION THAT HAS THEM ONBOARD BEFORE YOU EVEN LIFT YOUR BRUSH. UTILISE THESE TOP TIPS FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS FOR THE BEST HAIR COLOUR CONSULTATION. REMEMBER, IT'S ALL IN THE HAIR...
A PROFESSIONAL CONSULTATION MEANS CREATING A COLOUR JOURNEY THAT GETS THE COLOUR RIGHT AND DRIVES FREQUENCY
HONESTY
Be honest about your client’s hair condition, the price of the service and the frequency of visit. If your client has a darker base, be clear if you cannot achieve the desired result in one appointment. It’s so important to be honest about the appointment planning process and colour journey of the client from the start.
001_COVERNJ6.indd 7
A
ADD-ON SERVICES
Consultation and the backbar is where it’s at. Explain the services you are going to perform, and the products and treatments used. Metal Detox is the perfect pre-treatment for any colouring or lightening appointment. Alternatively, clients may know the word ‘toner’, but not the benefits to the finished look or condition it gives. Explaining allows the customer to understand the value of the service, which ups your final bill.
I
INSPIRATION
Social media and influencer content are still the top source of inspiration for clients when deciding what sort of balayage service they are looking for.* Posting your balayage work will attract other clients, and gives you references during the consultation. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ consultation app, Style My Hair Pro, also contains a virtual try-on colour tool, as well as a range of moodboards of looks to help inspire.
R
RETAIL
At the end of the colour consultation discuss with your client what their bespoke aftercare regime will be. Give them time to ask questions and explain your choices. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ extended colour care, including the recent launch of Chroma Crème, means you can offer either a purple or blue shampoo for tailored solutions for clients of different bases to neutralise their hair.
*Colour U&A, September 2021, 2CV – females aged 16+, n= 4119
H
21/03/2022 15:56
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
ELEVATE YOUR BLONDE BUSINESS WE’VE COVERED TRENDS, WE’VE COVERED TECHNIQUES – NOW IT’S TIME TO EMPOWER YOUR TEAM WITH ENGAGING EDUCATION ON L’ORÉAL ACCESS
TO TRULY CAPITALISE ON THE BALAYAGE BOOM, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR TEAM CAN CREATE ENVY-INDUCING RESULTS TO DRIVE NEW COLOUR CLIENTS TO YOUR DOOR
BLONDE KEYS INTRODUCTION TO BLONDE KEYS E-LEARNING INCLUDES...
NEW AND UPDAT
FEATURING EVER ED FOR 2022! YT KNOW TO CONFID HING YOU NEED TO ENTLY COPE WIT H ANY BLONDING SITUAT ION
How lightening agents work on hair Lightening applications High Lift applications Correction applications Toning applications
THEN ONTO THE BLONDE STUDIO TWO-DAY IN-PERSON LEARNING, WHICH COVERS... The fundamental principles of how lightening agents work on hair Different lifting applications, such as long regrowth and virgin hair lift techniques Opportunities to put theory into practice and become a stand-out colourist Once you’ve brushed up on your blonding basics there is a huge variety of other courses to try, both online and in real life. Unlock your team’s potential with L’Oréal’s Getting Started series, which features top tips on how to start developing balayage, toning, and applying highlights. Once these skills have been developed, take the next step and learn from some of L’Oréal’s top artists. Get hands-on with colour legend Sophia Hilton and take part in her balayage course to boost your confidence in tackling big transformations. How confident are you in achieving those Instagram glam looks, or dealing with clients who want it all right away on a limited budget? Sophia’s vast experience will help you navigate these scenarios with ease. If you want to dive deeper into luxurious, personalised balayage finishes then Systematic Balayage by Siobhan Jones is the course for you. There is no ‘one size fits all’ approach to balayage application, so this course will break down multiple techniques and sectioning patterns in a systematic way.
VISIT L’ORÉAL ACCESS FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THESE COURSES AND MANY MORE TO BUILD UP YOUR BLONDING CONFIDENCE
001_COVERNJ6.indd 8
SCAN THIS CODE TO EXPLORE L’ORÉAL ACCESS
21/03/2022 15:57
IN THE BAG
“The Blond Studio collection offers such a vast range of lighteners. I love the 9 Levels prelightener, particularly for freehand painting, and the Lightening Clay Powder gives a beautifully soft, sun-kissed finish and smells incredible. Metal Detox has also become a vital tool when I’m lightening as I really believe it assists with the clarity of colour.”
“When it comes to creating beautiful and bespoke blondes I always begin every service with a Metal Detox pre-treatment to achieve bright, clean and trueto-tone colour results. My goto lightener is Blond Studio 9 Levels Bonder Inside, it’s perfect for freehand blends, global or enclosed applications.”
ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS, SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP
MIKE DECANTER, ZEBA HAIRDRESSING
“I still love a classic set of highlights toned beautifully to give a natural finish, and Dia Light is my favourite toner! My go-to combination for a bright, natural blonde is Dia Light 10.13 on the face frame and a soft root tap of the client’s natural depth, with Dia Light 10.02 + 10.01 on the rest.”
“Dia Light 10.01 is hands-down my favourite shade! It is the perfect tone to clean up unwanted warmth without showing ash. There’s a move among clients towards a brighter, cleaner, creamier blonde as opposed to the ashy and silver tones of the past few years.”
SARAH CLARKE-LEES, SAKS
KAREN PERRY, ROOM 97
001_COVERNJ6.indd 9
23/03/2022 11:14
“I am obsessed with Metal Detox. It allows me to push my blonde work and get optimal lightening but also a cleaner lift by removing the metals out the hair. For lightening I love the Blond Studio 9 Levels, it has a great creamy texture, and for toning the new Dia Light Clear is used on every client at some point!” JENNIFER LINTON, LINTON AND MAC
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
WE ASKED SOME OF THE TOP L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS ARTISTS WHICH PRODUCTS THEY CAN’T WORK WITHOUT “My go-to tool for toning is Dia Light. Not only is the shade range extensive, but also the shine it gives the hair is beautiful. I use 8.34 for a soft, natural strawberry blonde, and 8.1 is stunning to add some intense ash to a lighter base, or to really neutralise a mid-level French Balayage. My favourite is 10.13, it creates the most beautiful baby blondes.” LLOYD COURT, SEANHANNA
“I love the two newest “I’m celebrating lighteners: Blond warmth in blondes! Studio 9 Levels Dia Light is ideal for Bonder Inside and this trend; shades 7 Lightening Clay 8.23 and 10.32 are Powder. The clay is perfect for tapping into amazing for natural lightening, and the expensive beige trend.” 9 Levels Bonder Inside is ideal for HEATHER SHAW, FRANCESCO GROUP darker bases or very warm bases. It delivers fantastic results while PARTNER WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL maintaining condition.” PARIS FOR THE TOOLS, TECHNIQUES AND TREND INSIGHTS TO HELP GROW YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS. EXPLORE THE RANGE FOR YOURSELF AT LOREALPARTNERSHOP.COM
001_COVERNJ6.indd 10
CALLUM O’DONOVAN, THE EDGE HAIR DESIGN
21/03/2022 15:58
DISCOVER HOW THE METAL DETOX LINE-UP CAN BOOST YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS
LEARN MORE ABOUT METAL DETOX HERE
DETOX YOUR CLIENTS’ COLOUR FEARS WITH METAL DETOX FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS. VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK OR LOREALACCESS.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION.
*Colour U&A, September 2021, 2CV – females aged 16+, n= 4119. **Combing test. Pre-treatment, shampoo and masque versus classic shampoo on bleached hair
IA L CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR
THE PERFECT PARTNER
You’ll always have those clients who seem tempted by colour but shy away for fear of damage. In fact, research has shown that 58 per cent of women who have stopped colouring their hair did so because of this fear.* Metal Detox from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris is THE breakthrough that colourists have been waiting for. It’s a simple, three-step routine to help you achieve reliable colour results with up to 87 per cent less breakage risk.** Clients see and feel the difference in their hair, which is left with a noticeable gleam. Think of it as an insurance policy on your colour work as well as an easy addition to your client's bill, with homecare to add further opportunities to build on that final total. In fact, it’s so good it was named the 2021 Best Colour Safe Shampoo & Conditioner at the Cosmopolitan Beauty Awards. The Metal Detox trio has earned glowing reviews from colourists and clients alike. With no impact on your colour services, you can use it to help secure more even colour results, intense shine and a healthy look and feel. The Professional Pre-Treatment Spray penetrates the hair shaft to help neutralise excess copper build-up that causes instability in the hair. Spray in sections, from root to tip, and allow to air dry while preparing your colour, balayage or lightening mixture. That’s all the time it needs to get to work, and you can continue to colour as normal. Cleanse the hair after the colour service with the ultragentle shampoo, and finish with the Metal Detox Mask to leave hair feeling impossibly smooth and boosting that salon signature shine.
@LOREALPRO @LOREALPRO_EDUCATION_UKI #METALDETOX #LOREALPROUK #LOREALPROIRE
001_COVERNJ6.indd 11
24/03/2022 14:18
ubscribe /s m o .c g a m d a e creativeh
SIGN UP NOW AND RECEIVE A DIVA PRO STYLING GOLD DUST MULTI WAND, WORTH
£89.99
*
FOR JUST
£10
YOU’LL GET • 10 issues of Creative HEAD
magazine delivered to your door
• Exclusive ticket prices for Creative HEAD events**
• Exclusive competitions and prizes
• Free product samples from leading professional brands
The first 20 new Creative HEAD Club members will receive a Diva Pro Styling Gold Dust Multi Wand. The Gold Dust collection combines mineral oil-infused ceramic with the heat conductivity of gold, for super-smooth, long-lasting styles. The new golden metal tin packaging is reusable, recyclable, and plastic-free. It also includes a brand new eco-felt pouch that doubles up as a heat-proof mat for your styling tool. Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky member will win a Diva Pro Styling Gold Dust Touch Straightener, worth £149.99 For more information, visit divapro.co.uk
071_ClubApril.indd 1
*For the first 20 new members to sign up between 1 April and 30 April 2022. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **Selected events only, for more details contact events@alfol.co.uk
CLUB
21/03/2022 14:40
Powered by advanced lithium technology for ultimate cordless cutting performance. Our heavy-duty Super Motor range of professional grooming tools feature ultra-sharp Japanese Steel blades and a high-torque brushless motor for smooth precision cutting, outlining and detailing. And the Titanium Foil Shaver gives exceptional fading and blending.
NEW!
matrix
A Curl Can Dream Our first Pattern-preserving haircare System* that helps define and moisturise curls and coils Infused with Manuka Honey Extract
Prep, Prime & Play with Matrix for dreamy curls & coils LEARN MORE *Use shampoo, mask, cream and gel for full effect
21-00061-MS WeDO Masks Trade Press_CH.indd 1
15/02/2022 09:18
MOISTURE & SHINE MASK ...intensively conditions normal or damaged hair, improves softness and shine while reducing frizz. All whilst maintaining colour vibrancy It’s made with naturally-activated rooibos extract and murumuru butter that deeply nourishes hair.
21-00061-MS WeDO Masks Trade Press_CH.indd 2
15/02/2022 09:19
EDITOR’S LETTER 54
78
JOIN US!
I’m still on a high from Salon Smart, I’ll be honest. Being around so many salon owners again, hearing their stories, hopes, fears, mistakes, and successes, has given me months-worth of inspiration. It has crystalised the challenges that salons are still facing a year after we came out of that final lockdown… but it also illustrated the passion and love that has survived this pandemic. You’ll see the spirit captured from page 54, and more to follow online at creativeheadmag.com and on the Salon Smart HUB too. This industry is also facing mounting costs to literally keep the lights on (and the hairdryers blowing) as Ofgem increases its energy price cap by 54 per cent this month. Hair salons will be among the small firms most affected, but there is something you can do to mitigate costs. From switching to eco lightbulbs, a green energy provider and biodegradable disposable towels, Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes Anne Veck and Keith Mellen have saved thousands and are on hand on page 36, and at creativeheadmag.com, to help. It might be the prompt you need to get a little greener.
Amanda Nottage Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk
010-02_EdsLetter Contents.indd 1
24
creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
The good times keep on rolling… March went off with a bang as Salon Smart 2022 was a big hit. Missed it? Pick up the key takeaways of the day on page 54. And make sure you are signed up to the Salon Smart HUB as we drop new business content every month, see page 50. As for this month, get your name on the guest list for the first Coterie: In Session of 2022, on Monday 25 April, see the juicy line-up on page 48. If you’re not convinced already, then check out some of the epic looks created at past Coterie events, on page 52. Now, listen up, jump to those Most Wanted and It List 2022 entries – you’ve got until 23 May to get your masterpieces in. Head to page 42 for a full list of the categories – best of luck! creativeheadmag.com/events
@creativeheadmag
23/03/2022 14:32
With the exclusive participation of Emmanuel Esteban
LET YOUR CREATIVITY SHINE
divapro.co.uk
April WHAT’S INSIDE
OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
SYD HAYES, Q CUT
58
SUBRINA KIDD
ON THE COVER MARK MACIVER, SLIDERCUTS
Hair by Harriet Stokes using L’Oréal Professionnel Paris
MURRAY MCRAE, STAG
BRAND NEW BEAT We talk to the 2021 It List winners about their year wearing the coveted crown
KEITH MELLEN & ANNE VECK
SHARON ROBINSON
68 MODERN STYLIST’S KIT BAG
HARRIET STOKES, HUMANKIND HAIR
EDITOR
KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL
From the essentials to the surprises, the key tips and the secret sources, we share kit bag gold from the pros
ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT
ART DIRECTOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER
NICK JABBAL
ALISON ROWLEY
JENNY BROOKS
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
BRAND MANAGER
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR DEBORAH MURTHA
KELSEY DRING
ADAM WOOD
NAOMI SCROGGINS
DIGITAL DESIGNER
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR
EVA VESTMANN
010-02_EdsLetter Contents.indd 2
LAURA TUCKER
NATASHA PEARS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.
WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, Alfol Ltd, PO Box 289, Hexham, NE46 9HJ 01434 610416 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
24/03/2022 10:24
NEW
NEW SUPER LUXE RECYCLED METAL STORAGE TIN & Additional Colour Sleeves Available Seperately
divapro.co.uk
THE HAIR AND BEAUTY sector’s post-pandemic recovery is likely to be hit by further rises in energy costs, as utility prices increase more than 50 per cent from 1 April. In February, regulator Ofgem confi rmed the steepest increase to date of its price cap in Great Britain would take effect on 1 April because of the high wholesale gas prices energy companies are paying. Due to the poor state of the market, most businesses can’t save by switching. The price cap on standard and default tariffs has been raised by 54 per cent. This means that for a typical household, energy prices will rise from £1,277 a year to £1,971 a year. There was no mention of help for businesses in the Chancellor of the Exchequer’s Spring Statement, following calls from personal care sector bodies such as the NHBF and the Hair & Beauty Council to offer an energy bill rebate for commercial properties. Turn to page 32 for more information
Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris
Energy price hike to hit salons hard
Olly Alexander
A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS
Luke Pluckrose
IN THE KNOW LUKE PLUCKROSE TAKES LEAD AT FASHION IN MOTION The return of the V&A Museum’s Fashion in Motion live event series saw Luke Pluckrose at Saks UK for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris team up with bright young designer Harris Reed. Fluid, natural hair looks were created to match Harris Reed’s unique designs, which were chosen to be showcased at the launch the V&A’s latest exhibition, Fashioning Masculinities: The Art of Menswear, with Years & Years star Olly Alexander providing the soundtrack. “It’s about making the hair look its best while still natural,” Luke said backstage, describing the mix of low ponytails, blowouts or tightly slicked-back finishes created by himself and the Saks Art Team. Hair was prepped with TECNI.ART Pli from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris before being manipulated into natural yet sleek styles to complement the array of head pieces, using Fix Max Gel and Infinium Hairspray.
Everybody’s talking about…
Most Wanted Education Expert When working with clients wasn’t an option for most during lockdown, education became essential. Stylists used the time to upskill, refresh and revise their capabilities, connected by platforms such as Zoom, YouTube and Instagram. The time was right for Most Wanted to add a new category to its line-up: Education Expert. It’s open to individuals and teams providing hairdressing education, including colleges, private academies, in-salon educators and freelancers. This trophy celebrates education that delivers opportunities for personal and career progression. If you have students cooing over what you’ve done for them, then this is for you. Every day’s a school day – could the Most Wanted and It List Grand Final on 5 September be a victory day? To find out more, turn to page 42
14
014-016_In The Know.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:35
Larry King Salon
Clockwise from top left: Charlie Cullen, Michelle Sultan, Giuseppe Stelitano, Verity Ollerenshaw
STARS REVEALED FOR COTERIE: IN SESSION THE REIGNING 2021 It List Visionary and It Guy Giuseppe Stelitano will be styling on set at The Coterie: In Session. He’ll be joined by textured hair specialist Michelle Sultan, colour queen Verity Ollerenshaw, and grooming star Charlie Cullen. In partnership with BaByliss PRO, The Coterie: In Session is the chance to see on set action from some of the industry’s most creative talents. It takes place on 25 April at White Rabbit in London’s Shoreditch. Tickets on sale now at creativeheadmag.com For previous In Session treats, turn to page 52
GREEN LIGHT
JOIN THE CONVERSATION
Sustainability is a driving factor behind Authentic Beauty Concept, which has a history of bringing together like-minded salons and hairdressers at meaningful events for important conversations. In its first sustainability webinar, it will share best practices and ideas, discuss product innovations and encourage open discussion around the topic. Want to be a part of the conversation? Keep Monday 25 April free and email jenna.bulmer@henkel.com to secure your spot
From styling sprays to general dust and pollen, the air in the more compact and bijoux salons can get a trifle spotty. That’s why some are now opting to use air purifiers to help make it that bit cleaner. With the Dyson Purifier Cool Autoreact (from £499), three sensors constantly analyse the air to help precisely monitor, display and improve air quality in real time. dyson.co.uk
BUY IT!
HEAR ME, SEE ME @HAIRCUTS4HOMELESSUK A perfect book for the salon, Hear Me, See Me aims to humanise the face of homelessness by challenging stigmas and stereotypes via honest, thought-provoking imagery. It’s the work of former Most Wanted Award for Innovation winner Stewart Roberts of Haircuts4Homeless, with photography by Jack Eames and additional styling by session stylist and former It List winner Leigh Keates. The charity has set up a Crowdfunder page to sell the book, with all proceeds going back to the charity and to its Salon Ambassador Programme. crowdfunder.co.uk/p/haircuts4homeless
15
014-016_In The Know.indd 2
24/03/2022 14:36
BOOK IT! BLONDE KEYS
WE’RE HURTLING TOWARDS summer and already clients are craving a bit more blonde. And you know that a blonde client is one who spends more money and returns more often, so ensuring your team is confident lifting and lightening is essential. A classic course available is the iconic Blonde Keys from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, perfect for those new to hair colouring, to the brand’s colour, or those who want to refresh their knowledge. Following an Intro to Blonde Keys online, you’ll spend two days in the classroom learning the fundamental principles of how bleach and lightening agents work on hair, different lifting applications such as long regrowth bleach and virgin high lift techniques. The course also covers correction and toning too, to ensure you feel like a blonding boss when it’s all complete. WHEN 28 to 29 April WHERE Online, L’Oréal London Academy BOOK uk.lorealaccess.com
MILTON KEYNES AND OXFORD KEY AREAS FOR SALON GROWTH There were 11,841 new hair and beauty businesses created in 2021, two per cent of all new companies started. A study on post-pandemic opportunities by Yell Business, using Companies House and Google search data, also showed that key areas to start a new hairdressing salon included Milton Keynes, Oxford and Nottingham, with Milton Keynes, Oxford and Guildford particularly ripe for barbering entrepreneurs. This data was achieved by analysing Google search demand for the likes of ‘London hairdresser’ versus the actual number of businesses offering a service, in each area.
16
014-016_In The Know.indd 3
BOOK IT!
CURLS! COLOUR & DEFINE @GARYGILLHAIR An extreme hair look by Gary Gill and his team caught our eye at Balenciaga A/W22. For her first Paris Fashion Week appearance for the label, model Annemarijn Bulsink was fitted with floor-length hair extensions that transformed into a dramatic swirling cape. Posting backstage snaps captured on Bella Hadid’s iPhone, we love that Gary took the opportunity to shout out to his assistants, including former It List It Girl Rebecca Chang, and wig expert Tasos Constantinou.
CATCH-UP
Goldwell, KMS, Oribe and Varis parent company Kao has been named among the most ethical companies by Ethisphere for a 16th year.
Haringtons snaps up Gatsby & Miller
Paul Watts is the new ambassador for Alfa Italia.
FORMER MOST WANTED Best Salon Experience winner Gatsby & Miller in Amersham has been acquired by Haringtons. The move is part of the latter’s ongoing investment and expansion strategy, and will see Haringtons extend its brand into a new area, as it continues to build boutique salon experiences centred on high-street locations. Nikki Neale, head of brand and marketing for Haringtons, said the group is “very open to welcoming likeminded salons” into the Haringtons Group. It currently has 10 salons across the south of England.
Angelo Seminara has won Best Avant-Garde look, and Emma Simmons scooped Best Color at the AIPP Awards 2021-22. Andrew Barton is the new patron of honour of the Hair & Barber Council. Beauty entrepreneur and influencer Huda Kattan has invested in Fresha. Joanne Fox has won the Trophy for Extension Excellence at the GLammies by Great Lengths awards.
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 16:54
VEGAN LOOKS GOOD ON YOU
THE CULTURE OF HAIRDRESSING FORMULATED WITHOUT PARABENS + SULFATES (SLS OR SLES), VEGAN, CRUELTY + GLUTEN FREE.
@xpert_professional @randco www.xpertprofessional.co.uk TO BECOME A STOCKIST CONTACT XPERT PROFESSIONAL TODAY.
R+Co CH ad.indd 1
LEAPING BUNNY CERTIFIED
09/03/2022 12:29
Using sustainably sourced, ECOCERTcertified extracts of moringa seed oil and oat oil, KMS CONSCIOUSSTYLE Cleansing Mist refreshes hair and infuses it with weightless hydration. Oh, and the packaging is made of up to 98 per cent recycled materials.
The new 4D Foilayage service from Matrix is perfect for clients wanting to add extra colour dimension to blonde hair while protecting hair against damage. It uses Matrix Light Master 8 Lightening Powder with Bonder and SoColor Sync Toners, with the freehand technique idea for softening highlights or delivering a pronounced balayage effect. lorealpartnershop.com/uk
RRP £19.40
kmshair.com
the s are all runette at b th y s g s e, glo t timin c iv s fe r n e e p p Ex ith unette o it’s w new br s a h rage, s rs o ilan s Tone ARF M ar Glos e s w r ALFAP a lo n me n its Co otectio r p t tones in n e e d c ur fa 0 per Its colo up to 9 . d s e e h in range. s ta wa is main after 12 colour
service In-saallfoanparfmilano.com April is Earth Month, and Aveda is donating $5 (£3.70) from each sale of a limited-edition Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar to charity: water. It’s a gentle cleanser infused with Aveda’s signature calming aroma, and there’s no plastic in sight.
RRP £14 aveda.co.uk
Care range, with Indola’s improved Blonde Expert It’s spring, let blonding commence! Choose from logy, will be spot on for your salon. new Integrated Hair-Bond Techno e InstaCool is your ening and enhancing shine, whil two ranges: InstaStrong for strength sing. g go-to for strengthenin and neutrali
RRP from £5.60
indola.co.uk
Bumble and bumble is crushing it in the curl world. Welcome ne w Bb.Curl Light Defining Cream for fine to medium-curly (3A-3C) and wavy (2A-2C ) hair, alongside the Bb.Curl Gel Pomade that’s spot-on for all curls, coils and waves .
RRP £25 each
bumbleandbumble.co.uk
Spiced Vanilla Man Made Wash from 18.21 is a body wash, shampoo and conditioner to clean and condition from the crown down.
RRP from £23
xpertprofessional.co.uk
18
018-019_Stock It.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 14:26
STOCK IT!
LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES
Multi-taskers are a dream, so you’ll love Hue&Me Color Depositing and Bond-Building Treatment Mask from Difiaba, available exclusively in the UK from BluSky Brands and with a range of 12 shades. Perfect for in-salon services and a top-up at home.
Armed with stickers by artist Jasmin Sehra to customise laptops and phone cases, the new ghd iD collection is a pastel-toned Gen Z dream. You’ll see these tools all over TikTok, thanks to a campaign with six Gen Z-approved influencers.
In-salon service, RRP £19.95 info@bluskybrands.co.uk
@harriet_stokes
RRP from £129 ghdhair.com
Create depth and dimension to any look with the seven new shades joining the Great Lengths Rooted range, mixing soft, contrasting shades and bold transitions. They’re available in both GL Pre-Bonded and GL Tapes in a variety of lengths.
In-salon service greatlengths.com
Are your balayage clients looking for an update on the usual? Enter French Balayage Shadow from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, a twist on its French Balayage service for enhanced dimension and contrast to pair with dynamic cuts and styles.
In-salon service uk.lorealaccess.com
CREATIVE HEAD
018-019_Stock It.indd 2
Want a strong lift that’s still kind to hair? Look no further than the IGORA ROYAL Highlifts range from Schwarzkopf Professional. Its TrueLift Complex and Bonding Technology delivers a more powerful lift while neutralising warm undertones and protecting hair’s inner structure.
In-salon service
schwarzkopfpro.com
Everything from R+Co is formulated without parabens, sulphates, mineral oil or petrolatum, and are all vegan, cruelty- and gluten-free and colour-safe. We’re blinded by the shine from Two Way Mirror smoothing oil…
RRP £28
xpertprofessional.co.uk
19
23/03/2022 14:26
COLOUR VISION
GET THOSE BLONDES AND COLOUR CORRECTIONS IN TIP-TOP CONDITION WITH NEW EDUCATION AND PRODUCTS FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS IN ASSOCIATION WITH
GOLDEN HOURS Did you know that more than one-third of colour clients opt to go lighter? With nearly one-fifth of those requesting ultra-bright platinum locks? Exceptional blonding work is often about the journey, rather than the destination – so become the perfect guide to clients with Blonde Toolbox from Wella Professionals. Enhance and hone your technical knowledge on products, techniques and tones. This in-person, one-day course is running throughout the year at Wella Studios, and you can save 20 per cent by booking it as part of the Blonde Specialist Programme to really push yourself. The course costs £179 exc. VAT, and takes place on 3 May in London, 8 June in Manchester, and 19 September in Edinburgh. Visit education.wella.com or view the Wella Education Book at wella.com/educationbook
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
ENGE AND HOW TO EVERY ISSUE WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT ABOUT A KEY CHALL (@MARYG.HAIR), OVERCOME IT. MARY GEOGHEGAN, A FREELANCE COLOUR SPECIALIST BASED IN NOTTINGHAM USES SHINEFINITY TO CALM FEARS OF DAMAGE WHEN COLOURING “I get a lot of clients who are really anxious, really nervous about colouring their hair for the first time. And then, before you know it, they’re happy for me to do anything. It’s about building trust, and part of that is explaining to them what is happening to their hair – they absolutely love that you know the ins and outs of how it all works. “Wella has always been so on top of its game with technology, putting the integrity of the hair at the forefront of its products. I love to stock the whole Wella Professionals portfolio, so that I can provide whatever the client needs. The brand has really taken the time to develop Shinefinity to be exactly what we need, from the beautiful shades to asking for feedback on the formula. “The result is ideal for any client concerned about damage to their hair structure – it’s ammonia-free, silicone-free, zero damage and you get no base break because there’s no risk of it lifting the natural hair when you’re toning.”
20
020-021_Colour Vision April.indd 1
BEFORE
AFTER
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:37
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
SHELFIE TIME Color Renew is a must-have colour correction product. It’s so versatile in its uses, from reducing heavy build-up at the start of a large colour correction, removing old tones for a fresher finish, or reducing unwanted tones entirely. All without damaging the hair whatsoever.” TANYA RUSHBY, UK TECHNICAL EDUCATOR
WHY I’M WELLA
We have been using Wella Professionals as our main supplier for more than 50 years. As you can imagine, we have seen many changes in the company in that time – and have always been satisfied. “The quality of its products and its ongoing training programmes – in-salon and at the Wella Studios – have been key to our relationship. As colour specialists, Wella Professionals provides us with top quality, ever improving professional products to allow us to improvise and invent at will. “Our stylists have taken advantage of many of the training courses over the years, in particular the Master Colour Expert course, with great support and wonderful service from the Wella team. We are looking forward to the next 50 years of working with Wella Professionals.” RON SAMUELL, CHRISTOPHER BOYTON SALONS @CHRISTOPHER_BOYTONHAIR
NO MATTER WHAT YOU’RE FACED WITH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS THE SUPPORT, EDUCATION AND PRODUCTS TO EQUIP YOU WITH CAREER-MAKING CONFIDENCE. DISCOVER MORE ABOUT HOW WELLA PROFESSIONALS CAN SUPPORT YOU ON YOUR JOURNEY AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM @WellaHairUKI #WellaColour #MakeChange WellaUKI CREATIVE HEAD
020-021_Colour Vision April.indd 2
21
24/03/2022 14:37
NEW
colour glaze SHINE YOU CAN FEEL
ZERO LIFT, ZERO DAMAGE TRUE–TO–TONE RELIABLE COLOUR RESULTS NO–DRIP GEL CREAM BALANCED pH TECHNOLOGY CLEAN FORMULA* SUSTAINABLE PACKAGING
SCAN TO LEARN MORE @WellaHairUKI | #WellaColour | uk.wella.professionalstore.com *For more information visit our Wella Professionals Shinefinity Webpage
THE RUBICON LONDON
@THERUBICON_LDN
THE PLACES
NEW SPACES, FRESH LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK BETTER
24
024-025_Places.indd 1
The Rubicon offers a unique canvas for culture and commerce in the heart of East London. Co-founded by Lewis Stanford, and former It List winner Michael O’Gorman, the venue is defined by its industrial-leaning architecture, utterly Instagrammable interior, and a rather unexpected canalside terrace. There are three membership options available and members range from photographers, make-up artists, designers and casting agents, to fashion students and even a resident tattoo artist. For hair professionals, the space has the practical facilities of a salon but the comfort of home, offering a base with the tools to maintain a clientele and maximise their earnings. It’s another reimagining of a place for hairdressers to work in. “We wanted to capture the essence of being away at London Fashion Week, where like-minded people can come together in a working and social environment to create lasting camaraderie, connections and ideas,” says Michael. Nailed it!
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 14:27
Image courtesy of Agata Miller
GOT A NEW SALON OR A FRESH REFIT TO SHOUT ABOUT? ENTER MOST WANTED BEST NEW SALON 2022 – DETAILS ON PAGE 42
JOE MILLS STUDIO, LONDON
@JOE_MILLS_STUDIO Session stylist Joe Mills has this one-chair studio and meeting space a stone’s throw from his Joe and Co. barber shop in Soho, offering privacy to his discerning clientele, as well as one-to-one education.
CREATIVE HEAD
024-025_Places.indd 2
CHOP CHOP WEM TOWER, LONDON
@CHOPCHOPLDN The fourth salon in the brand’s group is also the smallest. There might only be two chairs, but it’s attached to the amenities on offer to residents of WEM Tower, to deliver hairdressing and barbering at the residential space.
25
21/03/2022 15:38
THE FACES THE PEOPLE IN ACTION
WORK IN PROGRESS
KAROLIINA SAUNDERS OF KAROLIINA SAUNDERS HAIR DESIGN IN HIGHWORTH (@KAROLIINASAUNDERS_HAIRDESIGN) AND THE 2021 MOST WANTED HAIR TREND WINNER, TAKES US THROUGH THE CREATION OF HER SUCCESSFUL LOOK
STEP 3
STEP 1
I put a concept together and, as I’m from Finland, I like to incorporate little reminders of the country into my collections. This would be called Hän, the gender-free Finnish pronoun that stands for equal opportunity. It’s a symbol for a better world where people are not defined by their background, gender or appearance.
The entire day felt really relaxed. I’d booked a model, Cannelle, after a FaceTime interview. We’ve placed a real importance on bringing textured hair into our education and inviting confidence in the salon. I love working on all textures, the way you can manipulate the hair allows you to create such beautiful shapes.
STEP 5 STEP 2
I put together a team. I hadn’t worked with photographer Chris Bulezuik before but absolutely loved the fact that he was equally keen to win! For my model I worked with The Hair Desk. I have a wonderful studio that’s next door to my salon. For me to be able to get the team all there was a dream.
26
026-030_Faces.indd 1
STEP 4
Due to deadlines we edited the shoot on the day. It was so difficult as Cannelle is so photogenic there simply wasn’t a bad shot! My PR helped to edit, along with the photographer and make-up artist. We finally agreed on what was to become the winning shot!
I had always dreamed of winning a Most Wanted Award and was blown away just to be a finalist. I’m still buzzing in fact! To be a part of something so awesome is where I want to stay. When they called out my name I remained seated for a while, watching my husband Mark jumping in the air. I thought ‘Yes, it’s me’. It was totally pinch-worthy!
COULD YOU BE 2022'S MOST WANTED HAIR TREND WINNER? ENTER NOW – SEE PAGE 42 FOR DETAILS
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:38
Aube Hair
MORB
Setting standards of contemporary design, first-class functionality and pure luxury since 1921 Love it. Lease it. Own it. Contact your local distributor now
www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
Creative Head MORB Print Ad April 22.indd 1
21/03/2022 15:01
24/7 A DAY OF WORK/LIFE BALANCE FOR SOPHIA HILTON, SALON AND ACADEMY OWNER OF NOT ANOTHER @HILTONSOPHIA
MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… ProCare 24/7 foil. MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… The Beautiful South, Dolly Parton, Eminem, Tones and I, and kundalini meditation tracks. I’M ALWAYS PLANNING… My next project. I LOOK UP TO… My Nan. Such a strong and compassionate woman. WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Meditate, do kundalini yoga and take long walks alone. WHEN I GET STUCK I… Turn to my husband Jorel. THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Creating too many projects for myself as I’m always excited.
I GET UP AT… 7AM, as I’m usually woken up by my four-year-old. We put on a movie and cuddle. We’re working through all of my ‘90s favourites – Casper, Free Willy, Flubber…
THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE MOST FROM… Thinking other people can work at my rate.
MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… My work wardrobe isn’t separate to the weekend. I want to bring the same self-esteem and happiness to every day of my life.
THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… “Don’t open a salon that crazy, it will be too much for people.” MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… It’s full, with a lot of starred things. I only have one full day a week to work on them, so it’s a challenge.
MY JOB ENTAILS… I work four days, so mix up an office day; a meetings day; planning and creative jobs; and a marathon hair day.
MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… My one indulgent thing is creating costumes. I love supporting my designer friend, Monika Bereza.
I GOT HERE BY… Working late, losing friends, a couple of breakdowns and failures. But mostly the kindness of those who taught me.
AFTER WORK… I rush home to read bedtime stories. I DECOMPRESS BY… Making art, decorating or sewing.
MY DAILY FUEL IS… Nerds!
EVERY DAY I HIT FIRST Thought Diary. This really helps balance my mental health. It sends me questions three-times a day to monitor my anxiety.
28
026-030_Faces.indd 2
Trello. I use this app at least 50 times a day. It’s my to-do list and organiser. There’s a shared list with everybody in the company so everyone is up-to-date.
Google Calendar. I colour code everything as I’m dyslexic and naturally quite forgetful, so everything in my life needs colours to visualise what I’m doing.
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 15:34
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
Aveda is donating $5 (£3.70) from every sale of the limited-edition Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar during Earth Month*
SUSTAINABILITY
COUNTS AVEDA CARES – it’s that simple. This isn’t a new mission in light of recent global events, it’s precisely what Aveda has always focused on – truly ethical and sustainable beauty that performs, with the right business support to help grow all its partners. Absolutely no compromise, ever. But now Aveda’s mission means even more to both consumers and to salons who now appreciate that a different way of working is possible, and necessary. It has the trust, heritage and authenticity to deliver what consumers are increasingly searching for, and to be a true partner to salon businesses across the UK that want to do something that makes a difference. Consumers are making more effort than ever to choose brands with a focus on sustainability and social change. Are you ready for that consumer? Would they trust you? It’s time to choose to care, and partner with a brand that cares about you, your salon business, your clients and the world we live in.
GET STARTED
Making your salon more sustainable can be overwhelming. As a leader in this area, Aveda has multiple resources to help you on your journey. Learn from others: Aveda’s trade sustainability ambassador Gina Conway (pictured, left) shares practical ways to make your salon more sustainable. Products with purpose: Aveda offers limited edition products with a contribution to a cause, from clean water to breast cancer research. Reduce salon waste: Aveda partners with Green Salon Collective to make recycling salon waste simple. Recycle empties: Aveda’s ‘take-back’ programme lets clients bring back empties in return for loyalty points. Earth Month: Join Aveda in celebrating Earth Month, where a percentage of product sales is donated to charity: water. Community projects: Get involved in projects with the Aveda salon network, such as Beach Cleans, to help make the world a better place.
“There are so many ways to cut back our carbon footprint and become a force for good in an industry renowned for high energy and water usage – and working with Aveda is an easy way for salons to start!” GINA CONWAY, OWNER OF GINA CONWAY ATELIER SALONS AND AVEDA UK TRADE SUSTAINABILITY AMBASSADOR
JOIN HANDS WITH AVEDA TO MAKE A POSITIVE DIFFERENCE TO THE WORLD. CALL 0370 192 5650 OR EMAIL JOINAVEDAUK@AVEDA.CO.UK FOR MORE INFORMATION @AVEDAUKPRO #AVEDACARES CREATIVE HEAD
029_Aveda3.indd 1
FIND OUT MORE ABOUT AVEDA x CHARITY: WATER HERE
*From 1 to 30 April, 2022, Aveda will donate $5 per Shampure Nurturing Shampoo Bar sold in all participating Aveda locations and online at aveda.co.uk in select countries to charity: water, up to $400,000 total.
AVEDA CONTINUES TO LEAD FROM THE FRONT WITH POSITIVE ACTIONS FOR PEOPLE AND PLANET
29
24/03/2022 14:37
What would Mitch Wilson do?
The founder of Laundry in Sheffield on how he keeps talent happy I’ve worked for and been a sole trader, a partnership, and a franchisee. I have never rented-out a chair but I have paid rent on a few all while being either employed or self-employed. There are pros and cons to each way of working. We’re all striving for success and satisfaction. The freedom to choose, to create and to innovate is difficult to think about when you’re installing a new customer toilet… Something I’ve wanted to do for years is to have multiple sites with multiple partners all invested emotionally and financially. How do I intend to go about this process? I’m signing over shares in Laundry Sheffield to three colleagues and we are negotiating on a unit in London where another partnership with two others will be developed. It’s early days but I genuinely believe it’s the best way to work for yourself while being employed. To be enveloped in a support network and have choices brings success and satisfaction. It’s true that there’s strength in numbers. We are all aware of the dwindling number of good hairdressers and small numbers coming through. There are many factors but I believe the growth of self-employment is one. I’m not suggesting that these environments are not putting in effort to bring on new talent. But if you’re a successful freelancer going from one site to another or just trying to finish that set of highlights to get home, you’re not hanging around to help anyone through a square layer. Three or four partners in a business want to build a future together. @wearelaundry
WHAT MADE ME KERI BLUE
@keribluebarber I HAVE SPENT my whole life experiencing discrimination. Even in 2022, life isn’t easy for non-binary people, and the attitudes that some people have had towards people like me have shaped me into the person I am today. The reason I became a barber in the first place was because I was turned away from a barber shop, simply because of who I am. I vowed then and there to do something that would make a difference for other people who have to jump through hoops just to get a haircut. After spending years training to become a barber, I launched my campaign
Hair Has No Gender to work towards a more inclusive industry when it comes to gender identity. It’s no myth that people from the LGBTQIA+ community feel the need to actively look for safe spaces, whether it’s getting a haircut or popping out for a drink. It might seem extreme, but in our Hair Has No Gender survey, we found that more than one-third of those people had experienced direct homophobia or transphobia in a salon or barber shop. And it’s not just LGBTQIA+ people who experience discrimination either; we support straight, cisgender women who have asked for a buzz cut only to be laughed at and turned away. Our industry plays such a huge role in the way people look, and more importantly, the way people feel about themselves, no matter who they are or how they choose to identify. I am a queer non-binary barber from West London called Keri, and what made me is what I am.
HUB 30
026-030_Faces.indd 3
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:39
REDUCE NO-SHOWS AND LATE CANCELLATION LOSSES BY UP TO 60 PER CENT WITH FRESHA
SALONS LOSE THOUSANDS of pounds from no-shows and late cancellations, costing the UK hairdressing industry millions in lost revenue every year. Take an average client spend of £40 – just eight missed appointments a week could lose your salon more than £14,000 a year! Almost a quarter of cancellations occur on the day, so you’re often left with little time to try and fill the slot. Resolving this issue can significantly protect your business. Fresha is reversing this trend by reducing no-shows and late cancellations by as much as 60 per cent, due to its free appointment reminders, booking confirmations, online card protection and a new deposits feature. Chief executive and founder, William Zeqiri, explains why the team has homed in on this issue: “Fresha has already processed more than 250 million appointments, so reducing the scale of this issue for our partners is a priority. We’re already achieving amazing loss reductions for them.”
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L Ursula Moore, Bond Shoreditch
MIND THE GAPS
FIVE TIPS TO PROTECT YOUR SALON 1 CREATE A FAIR CANCELLATION AND NO-SHOW POLICY Create a cancellation policy that’s fair to clients and reflects the scale of the problem for your business. Publish it on your website, and when clients book it can be clearly displayed at the ‘confirm with a card’ stage. Ursula Moore at Bond Shoreditch gives clients the option to cancel up to 48 hours before the appointment without being charged. She then charges 30 per cent for a late cancellation and 50 per cent for no-shows. This policy has resulted in just three no-shows in 18 months.
3 TAKE A DEPOSIT
Fresha’s new deposits feature requires clients to pay to secure their appointment. This is deducted from their bill at the payment stage, and if a client doesn’t show up salons can retain the deposit as a no-show charge.
4 BE FLEXIBLE AND UNDERSTANDING
A loyal client not turning up might indicate a genuine reason or problem, so communicate with them and respond to unforeseen circumstances fairly and sympathetically.
2 SEND APPOINTMENT CONFIRMATION
5 TAKE ACTION TO MANAGE
NOTIFICATIONS AND REMINDERS
REPEAT OFFENDERS
The automated email and SMS appointment confirmation notifications and reminders from Fresha are a great way to remind clients about their appointment – and your cancellation policy. These can be sent at intervals, giving clients ample time to cancel or reschedule without being charged.
If a client continually fails to show up, Fresha partners can prevent them from booking online. This gives salons a last resort after every other option has been exhausted.
JOIN FRESHA FOR FREE AND DISCOVER ALL OF ITS FEATURES AT FRESHA.COM/FOR-BUSINESS
CREATIVE HEAD
031_Fresha.indd 1
31
21/03/2022 15:30
NCSC urges firms to act on cyber threats THE NATIONAL CYBER SECURITY CENTRE (NCSC) is cautioning organisations of all sizes to follow actionable steps to reduce the risk of falling victim to potential cyberattacks arising from the current situation in Ukraine. The NCSC clarified that while it was not aware of any current specific threats to UK organisations as a result of the Russian invasion of Ukraine, there has been a historical pattern of cyber-attacks with international consequences. To find out more on guidance, and to report a cyber-security incident, visit ncsc.gov.uk
LOOK OUT FOR VIDEO RULES The Information Commissioner’s Office has produced new guidance for businesses on the rules around video surveillance, such as CCTV, and its implications for data protection. Salon owners who use CCTV should ensure the following:
•
That the CCTV system avoids any unintentional image capture of private land or individuals not visiting the premises.
ENERGY PRICE HIKE PLEAS IGNORED
Calls from the personal care sector for an energy bill rebate have fallen on deaf ears as the Chancellor of the Exchequer revealed his Spring Statement. The NHBF joined with other sector organisations to call for a rebate similar to that offered to domestic properties in February to be made available to commercial properties. Energy regulator Ofgem is raising its energy price cap to £1,971 a year for the average household on 1 April in Great Britain, meaning salons can expect their energy bills to increase again. The increase is a concern for the industry as hair salons are some of the biggest energy users of all small businesses, and follows on from the previous energy price cap rise in October last year. The collective of organisations, which included BABTAC, British Beauty Council and Hair & Barber Council alongside the NHBF, surveyed their respective members to assess the seriousness of the current situation. The findings from 1,774 businesses illustrated: • 94 per cent said utility bills had increased compared with this time last year, with 32 per cent stating energy bills were their largest overhead and a further 50 per cent stating it was their second greatest overhead. • 41 per cent said they had seen bills rise by 51 to 100 per cent, while 10 per cent had seen a rise of 101 to 200 per cent. • 57 per cent had attempted to switch supplier but 70 per cent had been unable to renegotiate their current contract with their existing supplier. • Almost half of businesses (47 per cent) have reduced other business costs to be able to afford increasing utility bills, such as reducing stock purchasing and reducing staff and personal wage costs.
•
That there are visible signs clearly showing that CCTV is in operation.
• If it is not obvious who operates the system, contact details must be displayed on sign(s).
• CCTV operators must securely store images from this system for a defined period, and only a limited number of authorised individuals may have access to those images. For further guidance, visit ico.org.uk
Spring brings business relief INCREASED EMPLOYMENT ALLOWANCE for small businesses and an increased National Insurance threshold have been revealed in The Chancellor’s Spring Statement. The employment allowance for small businesses rose to £5,000, a tax cut worth up to £1,000 for half a million small firms. The National Insurance threshold is increasing by £3,000 this year, up from a planned rise of £300. This equalises the NI contributions threshold with the personal income tax allowance of £12,570, but won’t come into effect until July.
To find out more information and how to join the NHBF, call 01234 831 965 or visit nhbf.co.uk 32
032_NHBF BUS ED.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:39
Fresha_Print_nosnow_285x220.indd 1
03/12/2021 13:25
MISSION CONTROL PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON in association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel*
PERCENTAGE OF TURNOVER ATTRIBUTED TO RETAIL
6.5%
How was business in February compared with January?
SAME 45%
UP 45% DOWN 10%
How was business in February 2022 compared with February 2020?
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN FEBRUARY
UP 22%
£64.14
UP 22%
DOWN 56%
THE MISSION: REBOOKING CLIENTS
57% of clients
rebook on the same day
45%
of salons offer a loyalty scheme
60%
of salon clients have been with the salon for five years or more
“We have noticed rebooking is down – it seems to be a post-lockdown issue, combined with far more salons using social media and digital marketing with offers”
BOOKING DEPOSITS Are you noticing an increase in no-shows and cancellations? We’ve all been there. Not only is it demoralising for your team, but your business has now lost the time and the cost of that appointment. No-shows are a huge challenge for salons, but fortunately, Phorest has the solution. The Phorest deposits feature allows salons to take a bigger upfront deposit on online bookings, guaranteeing a stronger commitment from clients. When clients pay a deposit in advance of a service, they’re much more likely to show up. This reduction in no-shows will protect your salon’s income and improve your cash flow in the long run. Phorest has also recently launched in-house deposits, meaning you can now take a deposit from your client whether they rebook in the salon or book online. Phorest salons using this feature have seen their no-shows decrease by 65 per cent, with rates going from 5.4 per cent to 1.9 per cent. In other words, for every three no-shows they would have had, salons using this feature now have just one. According to Phorest data, salons typically charge deposits at 30 per cent of the service price. However, they can choose which services to charge for, the amount, and to which clients. This means you can set a higher deposit for higher-risk customers or for specific services that might financially impact your business more in the event of a no-show. Charging your clients deposits will improve many aspects of your business: • It reduces cancellations and no-shows • It increases client commitment • Salon efficiency is improved • More money is spent on in-salon retail
*Reader Panel methodology: Survey conducted in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
HOW DO YOU COMPARE?
BOOKINGS DRIVE BUSINESS, and you want to ensure as many bums on seats as possible. After lockdown one of the biggest salon challenges has been noshows, and thousands of pounds were lost. Some clients may have had good reasons, but many had booked multiple appointments across multiple salons to see which would ultimately be the best for them. It’s shone a spotlight on bookings, retention and ensuring salons protect themselves. If consumers are willing to pay a booking deposit for a restaurant or dentist, why not a salon?
Kathleen Osborne is regional marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software UK & Ireland. Find out more at phorest.com @phorestsalonsoftware @phorest.ukie
JASON BALL, JOHN OLIVER HAIR 34
034_Mission Control.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 14:29
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
LOOKING INWARDS HAVE YOU TAKEN TIME TO CHECK ON YOUR MENTAL HEALTH? IF YOU HAVEN’T THEN YOU REALLY MUST, SAYS THE NHBF THE COVID-19 PANDEMIC has impacted in myriad ways, and for many it will have hit mental health more than anything else. According to research from Mind, more than half of adults (60 per cent) and two-thirds of young people (68 per cent) have said their mental health has got worse. Running a successful, prosperous hair salon, you should always remember to protect your mental health, and that of your team. According to the Mental Health Foundation, 70 million work days are lost each year due to mental health problems in the UK, costing businesses £2.4 billion a year.
THE SIGNS TO LOOK FOR Anxiety and depression are among the most common issues. There are signs to keep an eye out for. You might be: • Unable to concentrate and easily distracted • Irritable and aggressive • Less talkative and avoiding social activities • Tired and/or tearful • Unable to control your emotions • More prone to drinking alcohol • Physically ill, for example with headaches or increased fatigue • Feeling overwhelmed and unable to perform to your usual standards
SUPPORTING YOUR HEALTH When you and your team feel supported, your business sees benefits: improved productivity and smooth running of your business, fewer days of sick leave, better engagement and a good work/life balance. Here are some tips on how you can support your mental health: • Make mental health wellbeing in your business a top priority • Take regular breaks – a change of pace benefits your mental health • Seek help – sources of help and support from many groups are available • Eat well – a healthy diet is good for your body as well as your help mental health • Drink less alcohol and more water • Get active – doing plenty of exercise benefits mental as well as physical health • Connect – talk to someone you trust. Just acknowledging your feelings aloud can help NHBF Members have access to resources to help you feel secure and supported in business. Members can access employment support via the legal helpline. There is also access to the Health Assured app through NHBF rewards, with clinical expertise at the end of the phone 24/7.
NHBF MEMBERS BENEFIT FROM: • Discounted insurance • A free health and safety helpline
• A free 15-minute business coaching call from an industry expert every year
• Special fixed-rate business coaching
• A wide range of in-depth business guides and the money-saving NHBF Rewards Find out more about NHBF member benefits at nhbf.co.uk/benefits
JOIN THE NHBF BEFORE THOTE E END OF APRIL 2022 AND QU CHA25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE
For more information about how the NHBF can support you and your team, visit nhbf.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
035_NHBF.indd 1
35
21/03/2022 15:25
PERSONAL CHOICES YOUR GUIDE TO RUNNING A SUSTAINABLE SALON BUSINESS FROM OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS How do you live a life that’s more sustainable? Follow this advice from our Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes of 2021, Anne Veck and Keith Mellen, and download their free Salon Re:Source guide at creativeheadmag.com/business
ETHICAL REFRESHMENTS Change to Fairtrade and sustainable coffee, tea and cold drinks. Offer vegan alternatives to milk, but be mindful that not all of them are actually sustainable. For example, almond milk requires substantially more water during growth and production stages than soy, rice, hemp, coconut or oat milk. It requires 100-times the amount of water that pea milk does! And its production generates more CO2.
SUSTAINABLE CLEANING Switch to greener cleaning brands – you’ll find loads at ethicalsuperstore.com “Offer vegan alternatives to milk, but be mindful and sustainablylazy.com. Alternatively, that not all of them are actually sustainable. For white vinegar and baking soda make example, almond milk requires substantially good cleaners, or you could clean the more water during growth and production stages loo with a mix of citric acid and water. than soy, rice, hemp, coconut or oat milk” Check out wellnessmama.com for more options and how-tos. If you use towels, wash them with ANNE VECK AND KEITH MELLEN eco-friendly detergents like Ecozone ecoballs, Ecover or Ecovibe. Remember to use a laundry bag or ball to collect the micro-plastics that are shed during the wash. We like Guppy Friend bags or Cora Ball.
TECH CHOICES
Do you really need a new mobile phone? They include rare earth metals that are mined dangerously and unethically.
36
036-037_Editors.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 15:22
Like most things, keeping your phone a little longer reduces the CO2 emissions involved in the manufacturing process. Use Ecosia for internet searches instead of Google, as it invests its profits in tree planting. Send fewer emails, copy in fewer people, review all your subscriptions and delete any defunct personal email addresses you may have. Reduce the size of attachments or replace with a hyperlink. Back up only what’s essential.
FRESH AIR IS FABULOUS! Have potted plants instead of cut flowers to help oxygenate the air and keep it fresh. Try to buy from an independent nursery where they can actually tell you something about the plant’s origins. Sometimes, pot plants can be as unsustainable as cut flowers! Ditch what’s likely to be a toxic air freshener in a spray can for a pleasant green alternative such as essential oil sprays or electric diffusers. But do avoid candles – they can be dangerous in salons!
SHOP LOCALLY Shop locally to support businesses like yours. Shop at places such as the Co-op, which aims to be carbon-neutral by 2025. And reduce your online shopping as much as possible – it uses so much useless and dangerous plastic, paper and cardboard packaging, not to mention the massive increases in delivery miles by diesel vans and airplanes.
FOOD OPTIONS If you offer drinks or snacks remember to cater for all diets – gluten-free, vegan, and so on. Ditch those tiny biscuits that are individually wrapped in plastic and team up with a local bakery or café to provide tasty treats.
NEXT MONTH: TAKING BIGGER STEPS THAT MAY NEED A BIT MORE EFFORT AND INVESTMENT – THOUGH THEY SHOULD SAVE YOU MONEY IN THE LONG RUN! MEANWHILE, GO TO CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/BUSINESS FOR MORE HINTS AND TIPS FROM ANNE AND KEITH AND TO FIND THEIR SALON RE:SOURCE TOOLKIT IN FULL
CREATIVE HEAD
036-037_Editors.indd 2
37
21/03/2022 15:22
SEEDS OF CHANGE THE FUTURE IS LOOKING BRIGHT AS PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE SHOWCASES A NEW LOOK AND A NEW FUND TO HELP ITS SALON PARTNERS GROW IN 2022
PHOREST HAS BEEN supporting and empowering salon owners since 2004 and has unveiled a new brand identity as it accelerates into a new phase. The sleek look reflects the brand’s continued drive for growth and development, both within the company and for its expanding client roster. To celebrate the new look, and as a fresh commitment to the hair and beauty communities it serves, Phorest has announced the launch of The Phorest Growth Fund. The software company is depositing £100,000 into a fund that will be available to its clients all over the world, acting as a springboard to help them climb their next steps in business. The fund is to be distributed on a case-by-case basis to salons who need help reaching the next phase of their growth plans, and applications are open until 1 May 2022.
38
038-039_Phorest.indd 1
Phorest’s research has shown that for 42 per cent of salons, getting established, business planning and managing the financials of their businesses were the biggest challenges they faced, while 24 per cent struggled with getting appropriate loans or funding. Just as Phorest is growing and adapting, so too can you with the help of The Phorest Growth Fund. Flexible enough to cater to any size of business needs, Phorest offers a full suite of sophisticated marketing and reporting tools. More than 8,500 hair, beauty and clinic businesses across the globe are actively empowering their businesses with the help of Phorest Salon Software. These businesses trust Phorest to stay on the cutting-edge of the latest software capabilities, engineered specifically for the hair and beauty industry – all to make hairdressers’ lives easier and businesses run smoother.
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 15:11
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L
THEN, NOW AND NEXT
A LETTER FROM PHOREST CHIEF EXECUTIVE, RONAN PERCEVAL With our new launch we revealed a brand-new look for a new era. One that tells the story of the people behind the industry right at the heart of it. One that showcases our capabilities – a fresh, optimistic, forward-thinking salon software with real people and passion behind every screen. . But it’s what comes with our new look that matters most I’m proud to announce the establishment of The Phorest Growth Fund. It’s our commitment to give a minimum year back to salon businesses across the globe in 2022, and every
of £100,000 from now on. tone for salons that The global Phorest Growth Fund is a financial stepping-s or finance to level up. have plans for growth but struggle to secure funding, loans like to be at the heart Phorest was born on the salon floor – we know what it’s acutely aware of the of a business that is striving for excellence, but we are also that business. The fund challenges facing the industry when it comes to growing much. is there to give back to the community that has given us so open until 1 May The Phorest Growth Fund application process is currently application process. 2022. Funds will be awarded to salons selected through the taken the next step in No tricks. No hidden hooks. Just a helping hand. We have unless you are on that our growth journey with a new look; but it means nothing journey beside us. Together, we grow.
Ronan Perceval Chief executive, Phorest
ENJOY FRESH GROWTH WITH PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE AND THE PHOREST GROWTH FUND. VISIT PHOREST.COM, EMAIL TOGETHERWEGROW@PHOREST.COM OR CALL 020 7100 9290 #TOGETHERWEGROW CREATIVE HEAD
038-039_Phorest.indd 2
39
21/03/2022 15:11
SUPER-LUXE EXPENSIVE-LOOKING GLOSSY BRUNETTES ARE A MAJOR TREND THIS YEAR. SO CAPITALISE WITH COLORWEAR GLOSS TONERS FROM ALFAPARF MILANO – AND 20 NEW BEAUTIFUL BRUNETTE TONES!
40
040-041_Alfaparf.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 15:08
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IA L QUICK AND EASY to use, but delivering high-performance results, Colorwear Gloss Toners from ALFAPARF Milano are the new musthave in every colourist’s kit bag. What makes the difference is the patented vegan formula – a nourishing combination of protective, anti-oxidant and anti-frizz oils, and arginine, a completely natural amino acid that is already present within hair’s protein structure. And the results are astounding: 103 per cent more dynamic shine; 13 per cent more elasticity; colour maintained up to 90 per cent after 12 washes; and maximum manageability. Bravissimo! Introduced last year, Colorwear has now been expanded to 42 shades, including 20 beautiful brunette tones, making it perfect for 2022’s trend for brunettes that are full of expensive-looking energy, dimension and detail. Full credit to celebrities for influencing the mood – the likes of Hailey Bieber, Billie Eilish and Karlie Kloss have all swapped their signature golden blondes for rich brunette shades, and look incredible for it. With brunettes starting to have more fun, it’s all about adding depth and dimension to achieve that luxe look, with rich shades chosen to suit skin tone and eye colour. “Brunette hair is one of the most on-trend looks this season,” says ALFAPARF Milano creative ambassador, Luke Benson. “There are many different depths and tones available with the new Colorwear range – it’s all about suitability and adapting to your client’s features. See how incredible Billie Eilish’s eyes look now that she’s gone back to the dark side! Brunette is amazing as a global colour, especially on short hair, but longer hair looks great with tonal panels of brunette that make it look healthier and more shiny.”
FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT ALFAPARF MILANO COLORWEAR GLOSS TONERS OR TO BECOME AN ALFAPARF MILANO SALON, VISIT ALFAPARFMILANO.COM CREATIVE HEAD
040-041_Alfaparf.indd 2
41
21/03/2022 15:09
ALL THE 16 MOST WANTED TROPHIES
More than an award #MWIT22 @creativeheadmag
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 1
21/03/2022 15:04
iiiiittttt i t LIST LIST
LIST LIST LIST LIST
GLORY SIX PLACES ON THE IT LIST
CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND IT LIST AWARDS ARE BACK, BIGGER THAN EVER AND SEARCHING FOR THE UK AND IRELAND’S MOST EXCITING HAIR TALENTS. ARE YOU ONE OF THEM?
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EVENTS
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 2
21/03/2022 15:05
CELEBRATING HAIRDRESSING’S BRIGHTEST STARS DEADLINE FOR ENTRIES 23 MAY FINALISTS ANNOUNCED 15 JUNE GRAND FINAL 5 SEPTEMBER More than an award #MWIT22 @creativeheadmag
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 3
21/03/2022 15:05
2022 CATEGORIES
OPEN TO THE OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES OF SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS, AS WELL AS SELF-EMPLOYED HAIR PROFESSIONALS, ALL WORKING IN THE UK AND IRELAND
NEW!
EDUCATION EXPERT
For an individual or team delivering exceptional education for the hairdressing industry
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
Rewarding an original initiative that benefits hair professionals, salons and barber shop businesses and/or the industry at large
BEST CLIENT EXPERIENCE
For a salon, workspace or barber shop delivering an outstanding client experience
BEST LOCAL SALON
For a salon or barber shop best serving its local community
BEST NEW SALON
For a new or revamped salon, workspace or barber shop with a unique sense of style
BEST SALON TEAM
For a salon, workspace or barber shop delivering teamwork at its best
BUSINESS THINKER
For the owner or director of a salon, workspace or barber shop demonstrating a remarkable approach to business
COLOUR EXPERT
For a hair colourist demonstrating exceptional technical skill and vision
CREATIVE TALENT
For the creative director or senior stylist of a salon or barber shop demonstrating stand-out skill and commercial awareness
HAIR TREND
For the best on-trend image of the year
INDEPENDENT STYLIST For a freelance hair professional busy building ‘brand me’
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST For a hair artist demonstrating stand-out work in men’s hair
SUSTAINABILITY HERO
For a hairdressing business owner helping to change the way we live – for the better
TEXTURE EXPERT
For a hair artist demonstrating stand-out work in textured hair
SESSION STYLIST
For the most exciting hair professional working in fashion BY NOMINATION ONLY
HAIR ICON
For the most inspirational hair professional of 2022 BY NOMINATION ONLY
FOR FULL CATEGORY DETAILS, COMPETITION RULES AND HOW TO ENTER VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 4
23/03/2022 14:53
iiiiittttt i t LIST LIST
LIST LIST LIST LIST
ARE YOU YOUNG, AMBITIOUS, AND READY TO MAKE YOUR MARK? DEADLINE FOR ENTRIES 23 MAY FINALISTS ANNOUNCED 15 JUNE GRAND FINAL 5 SEPTEMBER More than an award #MWIT22 @creativeheadmag
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 5
21/03/2022 15:06
2022 CATEGORIES OPEN TO THE OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES OF SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS, AS WELL AS SELF-EMPLOYED HAIR PROFESSIONALS, ALL AGED 30 OR UNDER AND WORKING IN THE UK AND IRELAND
NEW!
THE SALON STYLIST
For a young hair professional demonstrating stand-out skills behind the chair
THE EDITORIAL STYLIST For a young hair professional turning heads on set
THE ENTREPRENEUR
For a young hair professional who has created a successful and resilient salon or barber shop business
THE VISIONARY
For a young hair professional pushing creative boundaries
THE RISING STAR
For a young salon assistant who is enthusiastic, hard-working, and fast improving
THE ONE TO WATCH
For a young hair professional excelling in multiple disciplines and destined for greatness
THE IT LIST 2022 IS EXCLUSIVELY SPONSORED BY
FOR FULL CATEGORY DETAILS, COMPETITION RULES AND HOW TO ENTER VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THEITLIST
042-047_MWIT22_Promo_GW6.indd 6
21/03/2022 15:06
JOIN US AS WE STEP ONTO SET… CHARLIE CULLEN MEN’S HAIR EXPERT
VERITY OLLERENSHAW COLOUR EDUCATOR
IN SESSION
25/04/22 7PM-10PM | WHITE RABBIT
LONDON, EC2A 3HJ
048-049_Coterie_promo_GW5.indd 1
24/03/2022 14:40
STYLING. CHATTING. SOCIALISING. GIUSEPPE STELITANO CREATIVE DIRECTOR
OST H R U O
MICHELLE SULTAN TEXTURED HAIR SPECIALIST CASSIE STEER BEAUTY EDITOR + CONSULTANT SINGLE TICKET £35 DOUBLE TICKET £60
BUY NOW AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�STORE Includes canapés, drinks and a gift from sponsor BaByliss PRO
048-049_Coterie_promo_GW4.indd 2
SCAN FOR TICKETS 21/03/2022 15:02
HUB
This is the Salon Smart HUB – the business support network for salon and barber shop hair professionals. Powered by Creative HEAD in exclusive partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and Treatwell. Over on the HUB we drop new content every month that aims to inform, inspire, and educate. Including…
Video talks Panel debates Reports Articles Podcasts And more!
Consider Salon Smart HUB as the business adviser you always wanted, for FREE and available 24/7!
50
050-051_SSHub 3.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:57
AVAILABLE NOW ON THE HUB
1.
Coming this month! An exclusive HUB webinar on the power of digital marketing for driving business with Valerie Maine, founder of the award-winning Live True London salons
3.
2.
Want to know how best to acquire new customers? Treatwell is on hand to give you the lowdown
Understand the importance of gender IV E space and inclusivity within yourLsalon why ignoring this vital change could be harmful to business
+ NOW
SIGN UP
IT’S
QUICK SIMPLE
FREE
RECEIVE MONTHLY CONTENT ALERTS DIRECT TO YOUR INBOX
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/hub CREATIVE HEAD
050-051_SSHub 3.indd 2
51
21/03/2022 14:57
VIDEO CONTENT CRAFTED BY CREATIVE HEAD, FOR YOU
FROM SET TO SCREEN, GET INSPIRATION
RICK-RACK TEXTURE
Lauren Bell delivers a new style take with top technique 2-min watch
GRITTY MOD
Sharon Robinson revives retro with a modern twist on a ’60s mod look 2-min watch
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/VIDEO 52
052-053_CH Video.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:55
WATCH. LEARN. BE INSPIRED. FROM THE COTERIE: IN SESSION EFFORTLESS, ACCIDENTAL HAIR Leigh Keates reveals the skills behind a carefree finish
2.5-min Watch
REBELLIOUS PUNK
Lisa Farrall gives guidance on creating a braided mohawk with attitude 3-min watch
TUNE IN NOW CREATIVE HEAD
052-053_CH Video.indd 2
JOIN US
MONDAY 25 APRIL
THE COTERIE: IN SESSION TICKETS AVAILABLE NOW CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/ STORE 53
21/03/2022 14:55
EMBRACING CHANGE
THE PAST TWO COVID-INTERRUPTED YEARS GAVE THE UK’S SALON AND BARBER SHOP OWNERS THE TIME AND SPACE – NOT TO MENTION THE PRESSING NEED – TO RE-EVALUATE THEIR BUSINESS. IN MARCH, SALON SMART 2022 PRESENTED THE OPPORTUNITY TO SHARE THAT NEW THINKING WITH THEIR PEERS. SO, WHAT ARE THE BIG ISSUES FACING THE DECISION-MAKERS OF THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY RIGHT NOW? HERE ARE SALON SMART’S KEY TAKEAWAYS…
54
054-057_Salon Smart3.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 10:35
Sara Rigby-Holmes
FOCUS ON THE JOURNEY, NOT THE DESTINATION
RETHINK YOUR PRICING
Business strategist Kaye Sotomi brought some thought-provoking ideas around pricing, arguing this should be based on “magic”, rather than logic. For his London-based Chop Chop business he hadn’t looked at what his competitors were charging, but instead based his prices on the founding principles of the brand – gender and texture equality and sustainability. “People will pay for what they believe in,” he said.
CREATIVE HEAD
054-057_Salon Smart3.indd 2
Ashleigh Hodges
BE PRESENT
It’s common knowledge that the multiple lockdowns gave clients a new-found appreciation of their hairdressers; now salons are responding with a new focus on the stylistclient relationship, creating longer times for appointments (and charging accordingly) and encouraging their team to ‘be present’ with clients, rather than incentivising them always to work harder and faster. For colourist Ashleigh Hodges, the desire to truly understand and engage with her clients enables her to deliver something that’s impossible to achieve with box dye – she takes clients on a journey, elevating their colour look at each appointment to keep in tune with their changing lifestyle. “It’s often just a small change in terms of colour,” she said. “But it has a big impact on how they feel about their hair and keeps them coming back for more.” For Amanda Faith, co-owner of The Chapel, coming off social media and charging for appointments by time allowed her team to reconnect with clients and be more creative, resulting in an incredible 90 per cent staff retention rate. And such is stylist Claire Martin-Kennedy’s belief in the power of human connection, she urged the audience not to be usurped by technology but instead to use it as a tool to engage and connect with a wider audience.
Kaye Sotomi
Amanda Faith
Claire Martin-Kennedy
Covid-19 took a wrecking ball to almost every aspect of salon life, leaving business owners floundering under the challenge of lost team-members, disappearing clients, falling income and reduced resources. How to cope in the face of such uncertainty? Salon Smart was full of stories of resilience and progress. “Through every setback I had to focus on my priorities,” said Sara Rigby-Holmes, who emerged from lockdown short-staffed, saddled with debt and with “clients dropping like flies”. She took a serious look at the numbers and cut her cloth accordingly, reducing the hours of her non-revenue generating staff (such as cleaners and baristas), putting staff annual leave on hold for several weeks in order to minimise interruption to business, and going through her stock levels with “a fine-tooth pintail comb”. With cash flow the most pressing issue, Sarah bought herself time by renegotiating with suppliers, winning improved terms with her credit card company and increased patience from her landlord – her business plan became essential daily reading. “Covid has changed the way all of us plan,” she explained. “It’s all about the here and now and making every day count.”
55
24/03/2022 10:59
Keri Blue
Lisa Farrall and Errol
While Salon Smart shared plenty of advice on day-to-day salon management issues, expert panel sessions were a chance to cover the big industry topics that also require attention: gender inclusivity, texture education and sustainability. Founder of Hair Has No Gender, Keri Blue, spoke eloquently of their experiences as a queer, non-binary barber, feeling uncomfortable visiting traditional ladies’ salons, like an imposter in barber shops, and having endured rejection that caused lasting psychological and emotional damage. Salons should take time to understand their clients’ gender, Keri and fellow panellists Sophia Hilton and Luca Jones urged, creating a safe space where everyone feels fully accepted and validated, including those from LGBTQIA+ communities. Salons face a similar responsibility in terms of hair texture, argued a panel including Errol Douglas MBE, Charlotte Mensah and 2021 Most Wanted Texture Expert winner Lisa Farrall, who said it was a scandal that some clients are still being turned away from salons whose stylists have no training in Afro or Type 4 hair. “The more hair you do, the more you understand it, the more confidence you get and the more money you can make,” said Lisa. “Texture equality is as important as gender equality – we need to cater for everyone.” Meanwhile, with 80 per cent of consumers declaring themselves interested in or passionate about sustainability, there was plenty of inspiration on how to adapt businesses on financial, environmental and social levels from Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes Keith Mellen and Anne Veck, alongside Nicole Hewett, owner of The Salon of Chi in Henley-on-Thames. The trio delivered practical advice on everything from sorting waste to reducing energy use in the salon, arguing that while these measures often create more work, salon teams are often happy to make the sacrifice. “The question now is not ‘why be sustainable’, it’s ‘why not be sustainable!’” said Nicole.
Anne Veck
Keith Mellen, Nicole Hewett and Anne
Lisa, Errol and Charlotte Mensah
Keri, Sophia Hilton and Luca Jones
Errol Douglas MBE
THE BIGGER ISSUES
FOR MORE FROM SALON SMART, KEEP AN EYE ON THE
56
054-057_Salon Smart3.indd 3
HUB
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:42
Hellen Ward, Nadia Suliaman and Valerie Maine
Miranda Matthews
Murray McRae and Bridget Honan
OVERCOMING ADVERSITY
THE KEY STATS TO COME OUT OF SALON SMART 2022
Monica Teodoro CREATIVE HEAD
054-057_Salon Smart3.indd 4
Brooke Evans
Whether it was the story of It List Entrepreneur Brooke Evans tackling the nightmare of a flooded salon, entrepreneur Ebony Atakorah rethinking business to open much-needed new revenue streams, or a panel of experts – Hellen Ward, Nadia Suliaman and Valerie Maine – tackling the recruitment crisis, Salon Smart proved this industry is able to deal with huge challenges and come out smiling.
IT’S TOUGH OUT THERE
Darren Fowler
Andrew Mulvenna
With statistics suggesting 19 per cent of clients have not returned to salons post-Covid, and almost every salon reporting losing staff members to self-employment, one of the biggest buzzwords at Salon Smart was retention – of clients and staff. Joint headline sponsor Treatwell unveiled its new Treatwell PRO management software at Salon Smart, boosting its already impressive booking platform with a host of new features designed to entice lapsed customers, drum up frequency and build loyalty programmes that work, as well as understanding client frequency, average spend and what drives it. “With Treatwell you now get acquisition and retention all in one place,” said managing director for the UK & Ireland, Miranda Mathews. L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, meanwhile, identified the four key shifts in the market that salons will have to navigate in 2022 and beyond. These include changing client behaviours, such as fewer visits to the salon; a changing competitor landscape – most notably in the rise in home colour; challenges with recruitment and retention; and changing consumer expectations ranging from a requirement for sustainability to a higher premium placed on experiences. “As salon owners you need to lead in times of uncertainty,” said Monica Teodoro, general manager for education and professional development, with salon owners Darren Fowler and Andrew Mulvenna discussing how they have navigated new relationships with their teams and communities over the past two years. And Salon Smart was full of ideas for new ways to manage and incentivise teams. “Put people before profits,” was the rally cry from Murray McRae and Bridget Honan, the owners of Stag, Edinburgh, who have introduced four-day working weeks, access to therapy, and restructured sick pay. Meanwhile, Sara Rigby-Holmes has appointed senior members of her team to the board of her newly refurbished and rebranded 5 On The Square salon, involving them in key decision-making and ensuring they help set the future direction of the business.
Ebony Atakorah
RETENTION, RETENTION, RETENTION
CLIENTS ARE NOW VISITING THEIR SALON ON AVERAGE
19 PER CENT
OF CLIENTS HAVE NOT RETURNED TO THE SALON IN THE PAST 12 MONTHS THE AVERAGE SALON’S TURNOVER HAS REDUCED BY BETWEEN
10 AND 2 0 CENT, R E P ON S – DOWN 2.3 TIME ED WITH 2019 AR MP CO HS NT MO THE PRIOR 12
4.2 TIMES A YEAR
57
24/03/2022 10:36
D N A R B W E N T A BE 58
D E G A G N E , E R A W A , E T A N O I S S PA T S E T H G I R B S ’ Y R T S U D N I R U –O T H G U O R B S R YOUNG STA IVE ENERGY T A E R C G N I T EXCI T S I L T I 1 2 0 TO THE 2
058-067_It List.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:45
“BESPOKE BLONDES ARE MY PASSION. HERE ARE A FEW OF MY FAVOURITES!”
“I’M ALWAYS LOOKING TO CREATE THE PERFECT BESPOKE BLONDE”
THE RISING STAR
MILLIE BLOY
“I LOVE CAPTURING THE PERFECT IMAGE FOR INSTAGRAM. I LOVE USING NATURAL LIGHT OUTSIDE THE SALON WITH OUR PALM TREES IN THE BACKGROUND”
CODE HAIR CONSULTANTS, @MILLIECODEHAIR LOYAL, ENTHUSIASTIC AND always willing to go the extra mile for her peers, at just 19 years of age Millie Bloy also understands the importance of a profitable business – no wonder boss Laura Bull says she’s salon manager material. But hairdressing is more than just a job for this talented youngster. Her passion for her craft has helped her overcome panic attacks, provided a platform to support her LGBTQIA+ clients and even given her the confidence to tackle her local MP on Chop the VAT during lockdown. With Level 3 now firmly within her grasp, Millie already has her sights set on becoming an educator, homeowner, and It List Entrepreneur. Unstoppable! How does it feel to be part of the cohort reshaping the rules? I’m honoured to have been recognised alongside such amazing, talented people. When I heard my name called out as winner of The Rising Star, it was like the room stopped and everything was in slow motion! Who do you look up to, and why? I look up to my boss, Laura Bull, [owner of CODE Hair Consultants] as she is very successful in every area of her life – a great hairdresser and fantastic role model. I also love session stylist James Earnshaw and always go to his Instagram for colour inspiration! If you could change one thing about the hairdressing industry, what would it be? I would make the industry regulated, and make hairdressers continually upskill in order to keep their qualification, sort of how nurses have to. On apprenticeships we study so hard, all while building a column and learning new skills. Why shouldn’t that be equal to a university degree?
CREATIVE HEAD
058-067_It List.indd 2
“I’M REALLY ENJOYING WORK ON THE SALON FLOOR NOW THAT I’M QUALIFIED, CONSISTENTLY WORKING BACK-TO-BACK ON CLIENTS. IT GIVES ME SUCH A BUZZ!” 59
21/03/2022 14:46
“THIS BABYLISS PRO SHOOT IN 2021 BEST REPRESENTS MY STYLE”
THE IT GIRL
HARRIET STOKES
INDEPENDENT, @HARRIET_STOKES
“I WORK OUT OF HUNTER COLLECTIVE – IT ALLOWS ME TO DELIVER A PREMIUM EXPERIENCE TO MY CLIENTS”
BUSINESS OWNER, EDUCATOR, ambassador, creative force, collaborator… Harriet is the poster girl for a new generation of session stylists carving their own path in a rapidly changing industry and proving there’s no right or wrong way to do anything. Was going freelance in the middle of a pandemic crazy? Yes it was. But it was a challenge Harriet knew she was ready for – that it was her time to shine. Since going solo. she’s opened her own academy, along with co-founder Anneliese Hesse, offering the kind of education she’s always believed in, and within 36 hours of launching, all courses were sold out. Its name – Humankind – is typically Harriet: with freelancers having once been considered ‘a problem’ within the industry, she’s now on a mission for all humans to be treated equally, with kindness and respect. What do you love most about your generation? The open-mindedness, how everyone is collaborating and wanting to work with each other in different ways. If you could change one thing about the hairdressing industry, what would it be? To include business education in apprenticeships from the start. We no longer just do hair, we run our own businesses, manage people, create content and need to understand marketing so we can promote ourselves. Unfortunately, many of us have never had that training and are learning as we go. How does it feel to be part of the cohort reshaping the rules? I love it, I feel like freelancers are currently rewriting the rules and breaking down barriers within the industry. Yes, change is scary and there are lots of people who don’t want to embrace and welcome that change, but it’s happening and the industry is evolving, so don’t get left behind.
60
058-067_It List.indd 3
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:46
CREATIVE HEAD
058-067_It List.indd 4
“FROM A HIGH-SPEED TONER SHOOT FOR PULP RIOT”
“ONE OF MY SIGNATURE BALAYAGE LOOKS”
61
21/03/2022 14:47
“ROSIE CARNEY IS A SINGER I’VE BEEN WORKING WITH FOR A FEW YEARS AND AS YOU CAN SEE SHE’S JUST INCREDIBLE – THESE IMAGES FEEL SO TIMELESS. I WAS INSPIRED BY PATRICK DEMARCHELIER, WE WANTED TO ORGANICALLY TAKE PICTURES AND TRY DIFFERENT THINGS – SHE IS ALWAYS ONBOARD WITH IDEAS”
“THIS WAS A COLLABORATION WITH MY COLLEAGUE, RYAN FORSYTHE”
62
058-067_It List.indd 5
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:47
“I WAS INVITED TO COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK TO ASSIST THE JESPER HALLIN TEAM. THIS IS BACKSTAGE AT THE GARMENT SHOW A/W22”
THE IT GUY, THE VISIONARY
GIUSEPPE STELITANO
TREVOR SORBIE, @GIUSEPPEBSTELITANO JUST THREE YEARS ago Giuseppe Stelitano was a barista in the Trevor Sorbie salon in Covent Garden, having moved to London from Italy to chase his dreams. Look at him now. Not only is he the iconic salon brand’s first-ever creative director – alongside international artistic director Ryan Forsythe and education and brand director Nathan Walker – Giuseppe’s also notched up multiple award wins (including these two important It List titles) and suddenly everyone’s talking about his unique talent. Hairdressing for Giuseppe is a “form of art, a way to express his vision”; he thinks about hair as a blank canvas, on which to create a personalised painting, and this is seen in collections with titles such as Irreguliere and Memphis, where he pushes both artistic and personal boundaries. He is a major talent – extraordinary and exciting. If you could change one thing about the hairdressing industry, what would it be? Our industry is going through so much change and it’s becoming less about the binaries or tradition, and as a result people are having to adapt quickly. So, I think that continuing and people being open to doing things differently, investing in education and keeping the conversation going is really important. How does it feel to be part of the cohort reshaping the rules? It feels good, really liberating, and I’m honoured to be part of the community, but you definitely feel the pressure of so many eyes on you. What are you most looking forward to achieving in 2022? I’ve got my sights set on a few goals. It would be amazing to enter the Most Wanted Awards, and I’d also love to get involved in more editorial projects. On a personal level, I want to keep exploring and trying new things, working with more amazing people and pushing the boundaries of the industry.
CREATIVE HEAD
058-067_It List.indd 6
63
21/03/2022 14:48
“ONANDON, METAL MAGAZINE. SHOT AT THE END OF 2021, THIS WAS MY FAVOURITE EDITORIAL OF THE YEAR”
64
058-067_It List.indd 7
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:49
“A CHANEL SPECIAL FOR HUNGER MAGAZINE. I’M PROUD TO HAVE WORKED WITH SUCH A HIGH-END BRAND AND TEAM”
THE EDITORIAL STYLIST
ELLIE BOND
INDEPENDENT, @ELLIEBONDHAIR “COVER STORY FOR SOMETHING ABOUT ROCKS MAGAZINE WITH THE STUNNING SABRINA ELBA. WE WORKED WITH A SHORTERLENGTH WIG AND A WET LOOK THAT SHE HADN’T TRIED BEFORE”
ELLIE BOND REFUSES to settle. Since going freelance three years ago, her focus on making it in the session world has been absolute. Her work ethic sets her apart and has seen her shooting with Rankin, leading her first show at Central Saint Martins, and becoming Nick Irwin’s first assistant. Hair is part of her DNA and nothing else matters. “I’m discovering myself as I start to create my own recognisable aesthetic,” she says. “I’m not someone who likes to colour between the lines. Imperfections and nuances are what turn me on; I’m into hair that’s deconstructed, undone and raw, and I’m obsessed with wet looks and gelled details, drawing inspiration from the streets and influences that surround me. With a DIY mentality I always try to bring a little punk feeling to everything I do.” What do you love most about your generation? We’re the generation of togetherness. There is a huge sense of community. I love how we, the creatives, lift each other up by sharing knowledge and supporting one another. Egos are a thing of the past and there is a place here for everyone. If you could change one thing about the hairdressing industry, what would it be? It’s exciting to be part of a generation that’s championing change; where the importance of diversity, inclusivity and individuality is at the forefront of industry and public consciousness. However, there is still a long way to go on issues relating to education and knowledge of all hair textures.
“ON SET FOR LAUREN AQUILINA’S MUSIC VIDEO, THE KNIFE. I’VE BEEN WORKING WITH A LOT OF UPCOMING MUSICIANS ON VIDEOS, ARTWORK AND PRESS SHOTS, AS WELL HELPING THEM TO DEVELOP THEIR BRAND AND LOOK”
CREATIVE HEAD
058-067_It List.indd 8
What are you most looking forward to achieving in 2022? The past year has been huge for me in terms of confidence, growth and building my portfolio. I’m looking forward to pushing this to a higher standard while strengthening my skills and branching out from my comfort zone.
65
21/03/2022 14:49
“I WAS PART OF THE FIRST FELLOWSHIP FAME TEAM TO CREATE A TEXTURED HAIR COLLECTION. TO ME, THIS SHOWCASES CHANGE AND SOMETHING THAT SHOULD BE SEEN EVERY DAY!”
THE ENTREPRENEUR
BROOKE EVANS
BE IRONBRIDGE, @BE.IRONBRIDGE BROOKE EVANS IS a business force to be reckoned with. First, it took vision and ambition to transform a derelict garage in Ironbridge, Shropshire, into a stunning hairdressing business that pays homage to her local area and inspires others to rethink how they utilise new and old materials. The mechanic’s pit is now a wine cellar, the ceiling is papered with old magazines, the furniture upcycled and full of history. It’s a space that celebrates the old while making room for the new, including eco-friendly practices such as a product refill bar. But when her salon was hit by flooding soon after opening, and then by Covid-19 and the various lockdowns that followed… and then another bout of flooding in February 2022, Brooke showed guts and resilience. “We learnt from the previous flood what we needed to change,” she says. “Whereas in 2021 we would have been swimming out there, this year we have only had it as high as our shins in the road, so I take that as a win!” Who do you look up to, and why? I really admire Steven Bartlett, the entrepreneur from Dragons’ Den – what he’s created for himself and where he’s come from is inspiring. To be so young and be a multimillionaire but also have so much passion for his craft at such a young age is amazing. He’s definitely someone I admire outside of the hairdressing world. How does it feel to be part of the cohort reshaping the rules? I’m excited to be part of a generation that’s trying to switch it up. We’re all striving to be the best we can be – whether business owners, employed or self-employed stylists. The fact that we’re all able to thrive at the same time is great. What are you most looking forward to achieving in 2022? I’m working on a fashion-led shoot that’s an opportunity for me to showcase what I’m about and what I love. I’ve also got plans to launch my own education platform, which is so exciting, and I can’t wait to help the next generation really grow and develop their careers.
66
058-067_It List.indd 9
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 16:20
CREATIVE HEAD
058-067_It List.indd 10
67
21/03/2022 14:50
“WE CAN ALL CREATE IMAGES IN THE SAME WAY, BUT TO CREATE THIS LOOK I USED A TECHNIQUE I HAD NOT USED BEFORE. PROGRESSION IS KEY AND IT’S WHAT KEEPS YOUR WORK CURRENT”
Marlon Hawkins’ kit bag
THE MODERN STYLIST’S KIT BAG ASIDE FROM YOUR HANDS,YOUR KIT IS THE MOST ESSENTIAL ELEMENT YOU NEED TO DO YOUR JOB. ENSURE IT WORKS HARD FOR YOU YOUR HEAD CONTAINS the ideas, the inspiration, the techniques. Your hands provide the skills. And no doubt there’s a bulging bag that contains the precious tools of your trade, from a humble comb to a pricey hairdryer. Our mission here is to make sure you’ve considered your kit from every angle. “My kit bag is endless,” admits Most Wanted Texture Expert winner, Lisa Farrall. “I’ve learnt to pack essentials so I can make any look anywhere, because a brief can change at the last minute or you discover it simply doesn’t work when you’re styling in the middle of a field on a shoot!”
68
068-070_Kit Bag.indd 1
EVERYDAY ESSENTIALS
Let’s begin with the items that are most practical. “Start by considering your client base and all hair textures, and ensure you have an array of brushes and combs,” advises Sandy Wood at Sandy Wood Hair Specialists in Essex. “We work on all hair textures from 1A to 4C. Spend money on your combs as cheap ones can be scratchy, harsh on the scalp, or even pull the hair.” When it comes to scissors, you’ll want a couple of options. “I have some seven-inch shears for bulk removal, and some six-inch scissors for more intricate work. I love using a razor so that’s always with me,” explains Liverpool-based barber Pete Cranfield. “It’s important to invest in a pair of scissors that not only cuts hair cleanly and precisely, but is designed to fit the natural position of your hand,” says Steve McManus, founder of Leaf Scissors. “Get scissors that are offset as it will help you avoid repetitive strain and carpal tunnel later in your career.”
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:43
Kai Wan’s kit bag Millie Bloy’s kit bag
KITS WANT TO SEE WHAT’S IN THE LD, FIE AN CR OF MILLIE BLOY, PETE LL, RA FAR A LIS JAMES EARNSHAW, N? WA I KA D AN S, MARLON HAWKIN M! CO AG. DM HEA IVE VISIT CREAT
CARING FOR YOUR KIT
Your kit is expensive – so you need to keep it properly maintained. Start a maintenance checklist and get into the habit. Remove hair from brushes with a tail comb and give them a wash, wipe down your scissors and oil them, as well as any clippers. Cleaning the filter of your hairdryer regularly is also key, otherwise it can cause the motor to overheat and then damage it. It’s also worth keeping an inventory, so that if anyone at the salon or on a shoot borrows something, you can keep track if it isn’t there at the end of the day.
PLAY FAIR AND SHARE
While sharing kits in a salon can cause some bad feeling if items are not returned, there are some instances when sharing can be really helpful. Adam Reed, founder of Adam Reed London, ghd global ambassador, L’Oréal Professionnel Paris editorial ambassador, and a session legend, has unsurprisingly amassed quite the kit over the years. He’s also a generous individual who knows how expensive building up a shoot and show kit can be. That’s why he has a kit that’s shared among half a dozen or so salons near him in East London, if ever anyone is booked for a gig and wants to feel confident they have everything they could possibly need. “This is where an inventory is essential,” says Adam. “It’s done on an honesty basis, so if you use pins and clips you need to replace them for the next person.”
CREATIVE HEAD
068-070_Kit Bag.indd 2
HOW TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT BAG
Your bag has got to keep everything safe and sound, be easy to transport and help you find everything easily… it’s a tall order. Inanch Emir, founder of extensions specialist Inanch London, took matters into her own hands. “Being on the road with so many tools and bags has always been a hassle stylists don’t need. I wanted a kit bag that would neatly store tools and make it easy to move around,” she explains. She’s now selling the All That Hair storage case. “It’s firm, compact, easy to move, and it has compartments suitable for storing and transporting all types of hair and tools. The right bag makes life so much easier and also makes you look professional and prepared in the eyes of clients,” she adds. If you work in and out of a salon, it’s wise to consider having a variety of kits to suit the job at hand, according to Jonathan Andrew, Fudge Professional global ambassador. “For the salon I have a smaller kit bag with my essentials and products. It’s unlikely I’ll need any specialised kit so it can be more compact. BA1 Bags are great for this.” For set bags, he has two options. “I recommend using a suitcase from a ski or snowboard brand as these usually have lots of handy compartments for storage,” he adds. “When it’s more men’s grooming on set or a smaller job, I use a backpack as you never know where you could end up.” Kai Wan keeps everything in his treasured vegan bag by BA1 Bags: “There’s a place for everything, straps that hold all my brushes in place and little press studs that keep my expensive steel from rattling around.”
69
24/03/2022 14:43
IT’S KIT HOT!
you’ve dryer ir a s h o t, it ha ke n IQ is li t lightweigh d IS e R c A n bala ul ye The V owerf . ically P n m . o io n t n e c se ergo g fun is in , e n a is le ed no auto-c reduc as an and h ir.com varisha
rice Trade p
Enjoy a tan gle-free life with an arr from BaByl ay of cordle iss. For he ss stylers ight at the volume an roots and so d smoothin m e essentia g in key areas, Brush is a l the Cordle real winne ss Hot r.
£151.67
£180
babyliss.co.u
k
Tap into some serious Gen Z vibes with ghd iD, a limitededition collection of fresh lilac, bright blue, and soft pink hair tools. The hair brand has partnered with six Gen Z TikTok influencers to spread the word, inclu ding UK make-up star Abby Roberts.
The new Gold Dust range from Diva Pro Styling combines mineral oil-infused ceramics with the heat conductivity of gold for smooth styling. It also comes in a reusable luxe gold metal tin and an eco-felt pouch that doubles as a heat-proof mat.
From £79.99
From £129
divapro.co.uk
ghdhair.com
10 SURPRISING ESSENTIALS A normal pair of scissors so you don’t ruin your delicate hairdressing blades
Tape, to secure products and to label your kit
70
068-070_Kit Bag.indd 3
Black and white elastic in rolls for ponytails
Playing cards are perfect for placing under clips to hold hair in place while setting, says Kai Wan
Cleaning wipes and antibacterial spray. “I don’t go anywhere without CleanIT,” says Casey Coleman. “The can is the perfect size for your kit bag.” Mascara wands
Needle and thread, just in case you need to sew anything, or a clip comes off a weft
4711 Eau de Cologne; it’s Adam Reed’s top tip for removing colour on the skin and drying an oily hair line in a jiffy
A toothbrush for flyaway hairs
THE KIT BAG ADDRESS BOOK • MYKITCO (mykitco.uk) has lots of little bags to carry and organise. On the high street, Muji is great for different-sized travel bags. • A DIY store such as B&Q or Homebase has nail and screw organisers that make great pin boxes, reveals Jonathan Andrew. • The William Gee haberdashery on east London’s Kingsland Road is Adam Reed’s go-to for craft scissors. (williamgee.co.uk) • MacCulloch & Wallis in London is great for ribbons but they also ship globally. (macculloch-wallis.co.uk)
Plasters; you’d be surprised how often you need one!
• Session Kit, founded by former It Lister winner Anna Chapman, is a stylist’s playground, with everything from Japanese clips to mesh diffusers. (sessionkit.com)
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:43
creativeheadmag.com
Graphic shapes with neon accents form the foundations of ‘Strong’, a spiky collection by Spanish hairdresser Paula Alonso that is inspired by ’90s rebellion
SELF/STYLED Salon Smart 2022, in partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and Treatwell, was live and kicking! See more of the packed day of business education that tackled the biggest questions
Following the cracking live streamed event on 3 April, there’s no better time to visit our freelancer hub SELF/STYLED. It’s filled with business advice, inspiration, stories, and more, check it out right now!
creativeheadmag.com
003_CHM.indd 1
creativeheadmagofficial
What if your fashion look needs to last not just for a shoot or show, but an entire tour set? We caught up with Most Wanted winner Lisa Farrall to discuss the unique challenges of styling for live performances
@creativeheadmag
24/03/2022 14:13
… u o y s e m o c l e w
Supply 91, Islington
Co-founders Maxwell Oakley and Luke Davies were both born in 1991, and added the word ‘supply’ as not only are they supplying clients with a service, they’re also giving back to the community and environment.
Image courtesy of Dexter Lander
Mr. Q
NEW GROOM ROOM
which gave me the confidence to enter more. I became the Irish winner of the American Crew All Star Challenge in 2018 and 2019, which led to me joining Team Crew. I’m also an ambassador for Gamma+ UK and a project artistic member of Mizutani UK and Ireland. Being involved with these companies has pushed me to become a sole trader, and I’m really excited to be starting my new venture this spring.
CHRIS O’RIORDAN ST4Men
Describe yourself in five words… Enthusiastic, hard-working, patient, reliable, chatty. What’s exciting you about barbering and male grooming right now? The amount of talent and ingenuity at every level. Everyone is constantly raising their game, whether it’s the barbers, the product companies or scissor and clipper manufacturers. This can only be a good thing for the future. If I could change one thing… People with egos! Just be kind and support one another. Everything changed for me when… I did my first photoshoot in 2016. I didn’t want to do it! My boss Sean Taaffe gave me the push that I needed and I haven’t looked back since. From that shoot I entered my first competition and won,
THE
KT
The barber that inspired me is… It has to be Alan Beak for me. From the start of my career I have followed his journey. He’s a really talented barber and just an all-round great guy. Who else should we get to know… There’s so much talent out there right now, but to name a few it’d be Jody Taylor (@jodytaylorhair), Sean Jackman (@_seanjackman_barber_), and the winner of the American Crew All Star Challenge 2021 Ciara Madden (@ciaramaddenhair of @marksbarbersdublin). You might not know this about me… I absolutely love dogs and have a miniature schnauzer, Archie. Right now, I’m loving… American Crew Matte Clay has been a gamechanger for me. I love my Mizutani scissors, I could not use anything else. And my new Gamma+ Boosted clipper is so light to hold but so powerful. Say hello to me… On Insta, Facebook, TikTok: @chrisoriordanhair
SEE IT!
FASHIONING MASCULINITIES: THE ART OF MENSWEAR This V&A exhibition in partnership with Gucci is a perfectly-timed exploration of the history of men’s clothing. You’ll see the influence of European royal courts, Savile Row and a certain Harry Styles, whose Vogue cover – sporting a Gucci dress – spotlights how traditional boundaries in dress are becoming increasingly irrelevant. Runs until 6 November, vam.ac.uk COULD 2022 THE YOU BE NTED MEN’S A ? W MOST SPECIALIST T – HAIR D FIND OU AN ENTER ETAILS ON D 2 PAGE 4
With Andis has unveiled its reSURGE an airy, shaver after it’s global rebrand. It weightless boasts dual independent titanium whipped hypoallergenic foils, an integrated formulation, Whip long hair trimmer, and 60-minute from American Crew run time on just a provides light, pliable single charge. CHECK OUT hold and flexible Introductory BARBER WEE control. price CREATIVEHEA K AT DM RRP £16.45 COM – FROM AG. £188.29+VAT 4 APRIL! revlonproshop.com andis.com
72
072_MrQMeasure.indd 1
23/03/2022 12:50
Fresh trims take time, bookings shouldn’t Get sharp, get Slick
@gettingslick @gettingslick | www.getslick.com/instagram | www.getslick.com/barber
@manifesto_ldn
THE SCENE CHANGES FROM GOING WILD WITH COLOUR TO BARBER SHOPS ON WHEELS, WE INVESTIGATE THE CHANGING LANDSCAPE OF BARBERING AND GROOMING WHEN IT COMES to adapting your business to thrive rather than just survive, it’s crucial to ensure you’re not letting opportunities pass you by. You can’t afford to only offer the same old services when client needs are changing so rapidly. Take the next step and invest in the right skills and services.
Let’s talk texture
This individualistic approach can earn you dividends in client loyalty and recommendations. The design of your cut, tailored for each client, is also more important than ever given that lots of clients are using less product – a change that has not gone unnoticed by Callum McDonald, manager of Ruffians in Covent Garden. “They’ve got so used to not wearing product during the pandemic. You’ve got to be far more precise with your cutting. With clients not visiting as regularly, the lines between hairdressing and barbering are more blurred.”
Increased awareness of individual style has meant that skillsets need to be examined with urgency – are you and your team confident that you can deliver a bespoke cut for every type of hair texture and length? There has been a light shone on the need for textured hair skills, for barbers and groomers Barbers are taking to the streets – literally – as the number to have the confidence and the knowledge to cut the hair of of brands that offer mobile barbering services increases. As anyone sitting in their chair. Eph Dandy, a London-based clients are in flux, not quite back to the office but not always barber and afro texture educator at the Kevin Fortune Hair at home anymore, this flexibility gives barbers the ability to Styling Academy, explains: “Clients are much more aware of appear exactly where they are needed. TRIM-IT, World Cut their own hair and what it should look like. The stylist should Barbers and douce, founded by former It List Entrepreneur know what the customer is requesting – and how to cut it.” Phil Benton, illustrate the new world of barbering on the move. “We’re seeing more natural hair textures on models at When Jamie Labella saw bookings at his two-seater barber fashion weeks, more Asian hair textures and mixed ethnicity shop in Tarporley, Cheshire, halved due to social distancing, textures. It’s challenging and interesting,” says Rino Riccio, an idea was sparked. He converted a horsebox trailer into Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist 2021 and head of a mobile barber shop, bringing back his second seat and education at Manifesto London. Rino has noticed how introducing a new business: MOBARB. The concept is Barbering clients are enjoying experimenting much more with evolving into franchises and different levels of vehicle, is taking over their look, which has led to updates in Manifesto’s from single seat van kit-outs to multi-chair trailers. creativeheadmag.com education, too: “We teach a ‘Classic Now’ course But rather than being seen as competition to local for a week from 4 April! which isn’t just about cut, it’s about considering barbers, they’ve had interest from barbers looking to Head online to check out exclusive additional texture, and learning how to style longer hair.” broaden their reach into more isolated communities.
On the move
content
74
074-076_MrQ Changing Lanes.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:34
LIGHT HOLD NATURAL SHINE
Our unique styling WHIP provides subtle texture and control for natural effortless looks. Its weightless formulation delivers light, pliable hold and natural shine for healthy looking hair. Distributes easily into the hair, provides definition and separation, as well as enhances fullness and volume. Great for medium to long hair lengths.
WHIP NEW
BY AMERICAN CREW For EXCLUSIVE introductory offers contact your American Crew or Revlon Representative or visit the revlonproshop.com UK 020 7391 7440 OR IE 01 8869300
© 2021 American Crew
Hair loss is a subject that can produce emotional responses, no matter who is experiencing it. Traditionally, a barber shop client losing their hair meant it was a matter of time before that client would no longer need your services. That is now changing; hair loss services offer a chance for you to step up and stand out, creating new revenue as well as fostering close client relationships. Backwash treatments and retail products that stimulate hair growth and thicken strands give you a brilliant way to boost the bill and help clients concerned with hair loss. American Crew’s Acumen Scalp Revitalizer and Daily Thickening Shampoo work in conjunction to remove build-up, strengthen new hair growth and reduce breakage. There’s also a more direct service that could build a profitable new revenue stream for your business – hair replacement systems. At NEU Hair 4 Men, for example, 100 per cent human hair pieces are designed to completely or partially cover the head where the thinning area is and cover any receding hairline in a non-surgical and affordable way. Robert Eaton, creative director at Russell Eaton salons in Yorkshire and technical director for Wella Professionals UK & Ireland, pursued his interest in trichology to be able to help as many clients as possible while also expanding opportunities for the salon group. “Advancing your hairdressing skills in this direction can really enhance your business,” he explains. 76
074-076_MrQ Changing Lanes.indd 2
Remember when there was a seemingly firm line to denote what men should do, or not do, with their hair? Thankfully those lines are more blurred than ever. Balayage, perms, bright colours, long hair – there are barber shop customers who want these looks. If you’re not evolving your offerings to tempt curious clients, then you could well be missing out on some big bucks. Take the shaved pink buzzcut; Cruz Beckham is the latest celeb to debut the look, on the cover of iD magazine, following the likes of Jaden Smith and actor Evan Mock. As worldwide tastemakers are adventurously changing up their styles and colour, the team at The Lounge in London’s Soho has certainly seen a rise in requests for neon and bright hair from their male clients. Senior stylist Rosie Swindell says more men are coming in to get their hair brightly coloured since the lockdowns: “They’re discovering there are more ways to express themselves with hair colour rather than just a cut, which is very exciting.” She’s been keeping sides short and length on top to retain the colour. “Anyone can have fun and experiment with their hair if they have the confidence to wear it.”
@eph_the_barber
Loss or gain?
Could you be the next Most Wanted Men’s Hair Specialist? Enter now – turn to page 42 for details
@rohair2020 at @theloungesohohair
Gender freedom
CREATIVE HEAD
23/03/2022 12:49
PERFECT YOUR
REGIMEN WITH AMERICAN CREW
For EXCLUSIVE introductory offers contact your American Crew or Revlon Representative or visit the revlonproshop.com
UK 020 7391 7440
OR
IE 01 8869300
78
078-081_FashionApril.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:23
TOTAL EUPHORIA THE S/S22 COLLECTION FROM GHD AND GHD UK TRADE EDUCATION AMBASSADOR JAMES EARNSHAW IS ALL ABOUT GEN Z AND ITS SPIRIT OF INDIVIDUALITY, OPTIMISM AND CONNECTIVITY. THIS FIRST GENERATION OF TRUE DIGITAL NATIVES IS HYPER CONTENT-FOCUSED; CUE SCROLL-STOPPING DETAILING AND TRENDING TECHNIQUES THAT HAVE BOTH SOCIAL AND SALON APPEAL
PHOTOGRAPHY BY PHILIP BLYTHMAN CREATIVE HEAD
078-081_FashionApril.indd 2
79
24/03/2022 14:44
80
078-081_FashionApril.indd 3
CREATIVE HEAD
21/03/2022 14:25
HAIR James Earnshaw for ghd. CREATIVE DIRECTION Amy Sontae. STYLING Charly Suggett. MAKE-UP Meg Lindow. NAILS Karen Louise.
SEE MORE FROM THE SHOOT, AND NOSE AROUND JAMES EARNSHAW’S BAG, ONLY ON CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM CREATIVE HEAD
078-081_FashionApril.indd 4
81
21/03/2022 14:26
THECompetitions LAST WORD ON… and awards A BIT OF HARDWARE IN THE TROPHY CABINET CAN BOOST YOUR TEAM’S CONFIDENCE AND PERFORMANCE, ATTRACT NEW CLIENTS AND INCREASE TAKINGS. ARE YOUR ENTRIES STRONG ENOUGH TO WIN?
The 2021 It List It Guy and The Visionary winner, Giuseppe Stelitano
SPRING BRINGS WITH it a plethora of competitions in the hair industry, offering the chance to test your creativity and benchmark your business against others. Finalising, and of course winning, brings a boost to the team and delivers a talking point that can be marketed to full effect to help your business’s bottom line. Tempted but don’t know where to start? Let’s break it down… Choose your categories carefully. This sounds obvious but read the criteria closely and be confident that you can tick all the boxes. Not all awards competitions are created equal, so just because you’ve been involved with one, doesn’t mean the other is going to have the same rules. For example, with Most Wanted and the It List, there is a wide variety of categories for both salon-based and freelance hairdressers, so there should be at least one category that speaks to you. Consider how your entry comes across in terms of its voice. This is your story and using a third person-style narrative, for example, can put it at arm’s length from the judges. “Genuine self-expression transcends the pages. As I look in-depth at entries, it’s fearless individualism that leaps
off the pages, you can’t fake personality,” says barber Mister Robinson, who has judged many competitions. “Be you, everyone else is already taken. To be able to honestly express yourself is a blessing and when you do that you will reveal the real you – and that is what I look for.” Not Another’s Sophia Hilton has shelves groaning under the weight of her Most Wanted and It List wins, and was made a Most Wanted Legend in 2020. What’s her secret? “Can you imagine how many people say the same thing in these entries? Imagine how repetitive it gets to read the same information again and again. To stand out from the crowd you must find a unique angle to really make an impact on the judges,” she says. She’s also been on the other side of awards. “Often when I’m judging, I’m less interested in the statistics and more interested in the passion behind what they did. I’m looking for the ‘why’.” Sophia also suggests only using a professional to write an entry on your behalf if they’ve got an eye for selling and marketing. “I’d much rather see a spelling mistake and a cluttered sentence than I would something that looks like it’s written for perfection. Being genuine with an entry means everything.”
LS FAL PIT EE KEY THR ERSHIPS PARTN TIVE JENNY BROOKS, CREA
MANAGER AT CREATIVE HEAD PUBLISHER ALFOL, OUTLINES COMMON MISTAKES ENTRANTS MAKE c Quantity over quality. Each award has its own specifi le multip across d entere entry c generi criteria, so one categories is unlikely to hit the right mark. Be targeted and tailor each submission. Poor readability. Consider fonts, design, and layout – are judges have lots of work to review, so clear entries that out. stand you ensure easy to follow are very important to Exceeding the limits. Page and word counts are there to keep things equal for all entrants, so play fair and don’t exceed them – you risk disqualification if you do. To see more about the Most Wanted and It List Awards, turn to page 42 or visit creativeheadmag.com/events
82
082_Last Word.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
24/03/2022 14:45
So it’s official – the laundry love affair you thought would last forever is all washed up. But that’s all water under the bridge right now. It’s time to start over and make a change for the better.
WE HAVE A solutioN!
* *Yearly savings based on a salon laundering 200 towels per week.
Call us on our special helpline 01732 617348 or visit throwinthetowel.info