£4.50 AUGUST 2020
In print•online•everywhere!
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l o o c s ’ t I care to
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Let us look after you Why Aveda? Because it cares… and always has
AVEDA CARES – it’s that simple. This isn’t a new mission in light of recent global events, it’s precisely what Aveda has always focused on – truly ethical and sustainable beauty that performs, with business support to help grow all its partners. Absolutely no compromise, ever. But now Aveda’s mission means something even more to both consumers and to salons who now appreciate that a different way of working is possible, and necessary. It has the trust, heritage and authenticity to deliver what consumers are increasingly searching for, and to be a true partner to salon businesses across the UK that want to do something different that makes a difference. The way consumers think and behave has changed because of the Covid-19 pandemic and, as we begin the recovery phase and head into the new normal, they will search out safety, spending on trusted brands and continuing many of their new online habits. There will be an even greater focus on sustainability and social change. Are you ready for that consumer? Would they trust you? It’s time to choose to care, and partner with a brand that cares about you, your salon business, your clients and our world. It’s time to choose a different way…
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How Aveda takes care of salons
Salons might be open again, but plenty are still concerned for the future. Now more consumers are used to shopping digitally, salons could face a diminishing share of retail. There is a different way… An industry first, Aveda has launched A-Commerce to help salons boost their profits through online sales. It’s free to set up, you don’t need a lengthy training session to get going and there is no need to manage piles of stock. Salons earn 10 per cent commission on all retail sales associated with their salon via aveda.co.uk, giving businesses the chance to offer their guests retail products both in the salon and online between visits. Clients buy from a site that looks like your brand; Aveda handles the backend fulfilment and related costs for all orders, including shipping and handling (using environmentally-friendly packaging materials as much as possible), promotional offers and samples, inventory, card processing fees… Just ask the salons that have already trialled it – they’ve beaten their sales targets by more than 58 per cent and new guests shopping online has increased by more than 1,600 per cent over target, through A-Commerce. Aveda is there to help keep clients loyal to you, thanks to its long-standing reward points programme. Consumers pick up points whenever they buy Aveda products through you (they can’t get them through third-party retailers) and they can scoop up big numbers through in-salon services too, such as 1,000 points for a colour. How many hair brands can offer that incentive? Alongside those premium products, Aveda Rituals and stellar service is an unwavering dedication to helping salons grow their businesses and their staff.
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How Aveda takes care of consumers
YOU’LL BE HEARING a lot about the ‘new normal’ right now, and it’s an ever-shifting landscape as we all adjust to our changed world. But even before the pandemic struck, there was a growing consumer movement towards vegan-friendly choices, of opting deliberately for ethically responsible brands that are community-minded. Now, many clients have concerns about the risk of Covid-19 post-lockdown; it’s no wonder there’s indication that ‘clean’ and ‘safe’ ingredients and products are becoming more of a priority. That’s the new normal for customer-facing businesses. Across its more than 40-year history, Aveda has showcased how it fundamentally cares for the world we live in. This is a plant-powered brand with an environmental mission, created by a hairdresser who was also deeply committed to our impact on the planet. Its formulations have always combined modern science with its roots in the ancient Indian art of renewal. Cruelty-free products with no animal testing? Always. Aveda has been cruelty-free since day one, and as of July 2019, all manufactured products leaving its factory are 100 per cent vegan,1 too. A pioneer in post-consumer recycled packaging? You bet, and its manufacturing is solar and wind-powered.2 We’re talking at least 90 per cent naturally derived, high-performance haircare – powered naturally, created sustainably. And this is a brand that gives back to local and global communities – that’s just the Aveda Way, and always has been. And don’t forget the power of the AVEDA HAS Pure-Fume Aroma. Those famous VER scents found in the products DONATED O and at the core of the in-salon Aveda Rituals are so unique they (£51.6M) TO even have their own hashtag – ENTAL ENVIRONM ITS #SmellsLikeAveda, of course. USES SINCE
$65m
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INCEPTION
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
1) Aveda is committed to having all vegan products on shelves by 1 January, 2021. 2) Through renewable energy credits and carbon offsets. Learn more at aveda.co.uk. 3) From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk. 4) Based on averaged repeat grooming results of colour with botanical repair colour treatment versus colour with non-conditioning shampoo.
“If a colourist can dream it, Aveda can create it” JOE HILL, COLOUR SPECIALIST, AVEDA UK PRO TEAM “Just because Aveda creates colour that cares for hair and is up to 93 per cent naturally-derived,3 doesn’t mean it can’t perform. It delivers on the dazzling; we’re talking infinite colour possibilities, all thanks to a fully customisable palette. Rich, radiant brunettes; high-lift, highwattage blondes; fade-resistant reds and even vibrant violet results are all achievable with Aveda Hair Colour.”
“Safety is the new luxury” ANTOINETTE BEENDERS, SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT, GLOBAL PROFESSIONAL ARTISTRY As the beating creative heart of Aveda for 23 years, iconic hairdresser Antoinette Beenders understands how to develop sustainable, successful businesses… Q: How can salons ensure a visit is still a luxury experience or a treat with salon safety measures? A: If clients feel safe when they’re with you and you give them a great colour, a brilliant cut, that’s the service they’re looking for. Q: Which services are currently driving US salons? A: Colour is the number one request. Everybody is working from home and being seen on Zoom where it’s difficult to hide roots! Think about offering express root services, and also techniques that concentrate on the T-zone. Q: What are you seeing in terms of hair trends back in the salon? A: People are just happy to get into the salon – there are some opportunities for makeovers but a lot of clients like the length they have grown and would like to hang on to it.
New is our normal!
Coming soon from Aveda, the vegan Botanical Repair collection that strengthens damaged hair. This new bondbuilding collection of a shampoo and conditioner, light and rich strengthening masque and leave-in treatment uses plant technology for five-times stronger hair4 and dramatically reduced breakage during colour services for a brilliant finish.
Show the world how much you care – join Aveda now by calling 0370 192 5650 or email joinavedauk@aveda.co.uk @AvedaUKPro @AvedaUK #AvedaCares
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Editor’s letter
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24 56 JOIN US!
Oh, have we got some exciting I SHOULD HAVE been on a beach in the Dominican Republic, news! From page 24 you can sipping a rum-laced cocktail while my nine-year old daughter hurled see the creative geniuses, herself down a looping water slide for the 36th time that day. I’m guessing business brainiacs and a fair few of you had similar plans involving sun, surf and possibly vats of supreme teams that wowed mojitos. But here we all are, working our busiest August ever… and you know their way onto the Most what? After the anxiety of lockdown, being back with colleagues and clients is truly Wanted and The It List thrilling. We felt it at Creative HEAD when we descended upon Lock Studios for Awards shortlists. Want to the Most Wanted and The It List Award judging days, seeing so many industry stars be at the Grand Final on as they were enjoying their businesses being open once again. We wanted to bottle 29 November? Tickets are that feeling and share it with you in our The Thrill of the New special from page 36, hot property, page 24 has which celebrates all the shiny newness we’ll see coming our way. But this issue also details. We’re also excited has a serious subject to address; this summer’s Black Lives Matter protests have to unveil a new format for shone a spotlight on the discrimination that BAME stylists continue to endure. Salon Smart London on At Creative HEAD, we aim to do better, to share a broader representation of 27 September… we’ll be voices and imagery across all of our platforms. From page 52, stylists such delivering a packed one-day as Errol Douglas MBE and Rianna Henry share their own experiences schedule directly to your home, as and hopes for the future. I urge you to read it and consider how we go virtual for the first time. It’s you can make a difference. the same epic line up and priceless advice but without the need to travel; are you ready to reflect, reset Amanda Nottage and rebuild together? See page 30. Editor creativeheadmag.com/events
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
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August
TIVE HEAD A E R
WHAT’S INSIDE 52
36
LEVEL THE PLAYING FIELD
THE THRILL OF THE NEW
Creative HEAD takes an unflinching look at life for a BAME hairstylist in today’s industry
You’re back at work and it’s all about to get very exciting in the world of hair
Tarin Sawyers Scott at Hazel & Haydn looks to the future
Tina Outen spent lockdown in NYC honing her skills
EDITOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
DEPUTY EDITOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT
BELLA PETERS
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
ALISON ROWLEY
PUBLISHER
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
STAFF WRITER
ANNA SAMSON
ART DIRECTOR
ADAM WOOD
EVA VESTMANN
KELSEY DRING
SPECIAL PROJECTS ASSISTANT SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JENNY BROOKS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
DAVID HAMMOND
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Creative direction and hair: Antoinette Beenders, Aveda senior vice-president, global professional artistry; assisted by Michela Pezza. Colour: Bruno Elorrioroz. Make-up: Marco Antonio. Fashion styling: Elad Bitton. Photography: Damian Foxe
RISING STAR
IN THE FRAME
DEBORAH MURTHA
ON THE COVER
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AMANDA NOTTAGE
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creativeheadmagofficial
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
23/07/2020 14:08
The edit R INDUSTRY THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOU
COVID COULD COST SALONS OVER £9,000
THE IMPACT OF the Covid-19 pandemic on small businesses operating in the hair and beauty industry will exceed £9,282 per salon in lost work, earnings and loan repayments, according to a new report. The survey of 411 hair and beauty business owners by insurer Simply Business also found that one in three businesses (33 per cent) are at risk of permanently closing. According to the figures, 43 per cent of respondents were concerned about the future of their business, while 37 per cent were also concerned about running out of money. Half of the participants admitted they have had to borrow money from friends and family to stay afloat, and a quarter expressed concerns about being able to pay back money borrowed. Financial support from the government had proven a lifeline for many, as 72 per cent were able to apply for a government grant or loan to relieve some of the financial pressure presented by the pandemic. But despite these challenges and concerns, one in five (22 per cent), said they still felt optimistic about their businesses.
Lve
CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT Salon Smart has transformed its September weekend into a virtual, one-day happening, Salon Smart Live. It offers the same crucial insight and the same talented presenters, but in a new on-screen format that means you can watch from the comfort of your home. But this is no standard Zoom call; filmed live in a studio and fully managed and produced by Creative HEAD’s event experts, you can expect the same packed agenda: conversations, interviews, workshops, Q&As and more! If you’ve ever wanted to attend the event but previously been unable to, this is an unmissable opportunity. Even better, tickets cost just £30 plus VAT if you book before 14 August (£35 plus VAT thereafter). Your ticket purchase will unlock a unique code to access a specially designed portal to the Salon Smart live stream. Switched on, tuned in, and armed with your Salon Smart Power Pack, you’ll be ready and set for the ultimate day of business education! For more information, turn to page 30.
MWIT20 GRAND FINAL
MOVES TO 29 NOVEMBER
The Most Wanted and The It List Awards Grand Final in London has been pushed back to Sunday 29 November, in order to deliver the most fabulous celebration of UK and Irish hair talent for all our fantastic finalists, sponsors, judges, industry friends and everybody who has joined us on the MWIT journey so far. We’re committed to keeping the #MWIT20 magic alive – the party might be late, but we promise it’ll be worth the wait! Stay tuned for updates across all our social channels @creativeheadmag in the coming weeks. Check out this year’s incredible finalists for Most Wanted and The It List from page 24.
HAIR & BEAUTY CHARITY SEES AID REQUESTS SOAR
Applications for financial support from the Hair & Beauty Charity rose by 78 per cent during the Covid-19 crisis. The charity has distributed more than £60,000 to beneficiaries since March, an increase of 75 per cent year-on-year. It has worked to support salons and stylists in need, despite experiencing a major loss of income due to various fundraising activities and events being cancelled. A Relief Fund has also been established, which has raised more than £30,000 so far.
The annual ghd Pink collection, in collaboration with Breast Cancer Now, has us swooning over these stunning dusky pink tools. The 2020 slogan ‘Take Control Now’ is subtly inscribed in metallic paint, catching the light to remind women to check their breasts as regularly as they use their hair tools. ghdhair.com
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GOV’T BONUS SCHEME FOR NEW APPRENTICES
Chancellor of the Exchequer Rishi Sunak has announced a new bonus scheme for employers who hire apprentices in the next six months. Running from August 2020 to January 2021, companies that hire a new apprentice aged 16 to 24 will receive £2,000. Those who hire new apprentices aged 25 and over will be paid £1,500. The Treasury has published a Plan for Jobs document that confirms that this new bonus scheme is in addition to the existing £1,000 incentive that the government provides for new 16 to 18-year-old apprentices. “We know apprenticeships work. Ninety one per cent stay in work or go on to further training,” the Chancellor added in his summer statement to the House of Commons.
2,646
new incorporations of hair and beauty companies were made during lockdown, illustrating that recent events have not dampened the spirit of hair entrepreneurs. Almost 200,000 companies have been incorporated across all sectors, an O2 Business analysis of Companies House data has found.
Haringtons in huge recruitment drive A global pandemic isn’t enough to stop the growth plans of salon chain Haringtons. The 10-strong chain based in the south and south-east of England is recruiting 70 new team members to cater to demand across all sites, as well as a recent refit at its Beaconsfield salon. The Haringtons group has invested heavily throughout lockdown, not just in staff, but also in the development of its salons, tools and technologies. Nikki Neale, head of brand, marketing and acquisition, said: “Despite businesses being forced to close due to the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic, Haringtons used the crisis as an opportunity to improve our business at all levels.”
Angelo Seminara joins Goldwell Goldwell has appointed Angelo Seminara as its new global brand ambassador. The celebrated stylist will be bringing his unique flair and colour creativity to collections and show work with Goldwell, as well as involvement with new product development with the R&D teams in Germany and Japan. He said: “Goldwell has always been at the forefront of innovation. I couldn’t be more excited to innovate alongside it.” Angelo will be presenting a new collection and show at the upcoming KAO Salon Virtual Experience in October.
CREATIVE HEAD
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MY month
AHEAD
What August has in store for... RICKY WATERS SALON64
To mark our third year in business we are launching CLUB64: Salon by day and private members club by night. We are continuing to bring the community together by opening a club and creating a social atmosphere and luxury destination people want to be a part of.
JOSEPH FERRARO
JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR
Unlike previous Augusts, our appointment book is bursting at the seams. I’d like to think that I have emerged from my longest ever break with more business acumen and an even better relationship with my son. The month will be divided between business building, mindfulness, salon work, and family.
MOVERS AND SHAKERS Takara Belmont has appointed Stephen Price as managing director. Coty has named former L’Oréal Paris executive Sue Y Nabi as its new chief executive. Chlöe Swift has joined the ghd global education team, she was previously a ghd brand warrior.
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Cut down appointment time with the Great Lengths at-home Client Prep Kit, so your guest is all set for their new extensions when they arrive in your chair. It includes Clean Remover Shampoo and a dressing out brush.
RRP £15.99 0114 278 1294 greatlengths.com
Help your clients survive summer with a choice of three packs from ASP, each with a stylish bag. We think the Love Bright Blondes Anti-Yellow Kit will fly off shelves.
RRP £33.50 EACH 01794 527 111 asphair.com
RRP TEXTURIZING SPRAY £32, COLOR LOCKING + PROTECTIVE SPRAY £35 Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
The spotlight on textured hair is a breath of fresh air, and savvy brands are ensuring they have products for all hair types. Step forward ghd, innovator extraordinaire – it has unveiled three nozzles for the ghd helios professional hairdryer. The professional comb nozzle gently helps lift, shape and blow out textured hair, while the professional diffuser works to perfect those curls. For speed-drying thick hair, the professional wide styling nozzle is a lifesaver. This 75 per cent alcohol hand sanitiser from Sea Venus is nonsticky, cares for hands and comes in 500ml pump action bottles – perfect for styling stations.
RRP FROM £20 01924 423 400 ghdhair.com
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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What did we all do before bond building additives existed? Meet the latest innovation – BlondorPlex from Wella Professionals – a lightening powder with bond builder technology included for up to 97 per cent less breakage, when used with WellaPlex No.2.
wella.com
seavenus.co.uk
RRP £12.90 0800 030 4034
monatglobal.com/uk
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3901 1163
SALON PRICE £4.95 UNTIL 16 AUGUST (USUALLY £5.50, MINIMUM ORDER 12 BOTTLES)
The Bounce Back Blonde is in full effect. Help those lighter clients keep it cool and tone up between appointments with a little help from Serie Expert Silver shampoo from L’Oréal Professionnel.
Create soft, barely-there finishes with MONAT Studio One Dry Texturizing Spray. And use the Color Locking + Protective Spray – a weightless, dual-action leavein treatment – to extend the life of colour and protect from UV rays.
Get fruity with these environmentally friendly Head Jog 08 Straw Brushes, made from bio-material and available in blueberry, raspberry, gooseberry and blackberry hues.
RRP £6.50 EACH SALON PRICE FOR DISPLAY BOX OF 12: £34.99 01924 466 999 hairtools.co.uk
New from Schwarzkopf Professional is the Color Blender Tool, created in collaboration with global colour ambassador, Lesley Jennison. Perfect for multi-tonal applications to deliver a seamless colour transition.
SALON PRICE £5 0800 328 6920 schwarzkopfpro.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS We can all agree it’s been quite the year. But on the positive side we’ve seen a greater appreciation of hairdressing and an increase in consumer interest in hair health and care. This is the perfect time to introduce a little luxury onto your retail shelves and thrill clients with a proper pampering treat. Welcome the latest luxe launches from Oribe. First up is the Gold Lust All Over Oil, a multi-tasking beauty elixir that can be used on hair, the body or even the face. It’s 99 per cent natural, for an all-day radiant glow and features Oribe’s classic Côte d’Azur scent, a rejuvenating lemon-rose fragrance. Then the brand’s Signature Collection is boosted with the addition of Invisible Defense Universal Protection Spray, a shield from UV rays, pollution and thermal damage, while protecting against frizz. Both come in Oribe’s iconic black and gold packaging, the ultimate in Instagrammable beauty.
RRP ALL OVER OIL £55, INVISIBLE DEFENSE £39.50 0330 123 9530 oribe.com
IT’S ALL ABOUT... TONING The new evo fabuloso Platinum Blonde shampoo is sulphate-free and ideal for any blonde suffering from dull, dry or brassy hair. It gently cleanses with maxed-out pigment to neutralise unwanted brassy and yellow tones in colourtreated blondes.
RRP £20 0800 955 4285 evohair.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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The Total Results Dark Envy range from Matrix removes any red from dark brown and black hair, while the mask is perfect for in-salon colour neutralisation services.
RRP FOR SHAMPOO AND CONDITIONER £11.50 EACH, MASK IN-SALON ONLY AVAILABLE THROUGH WHOLESALERS INCLUDING ALAN HOWARD matrixhaircare.co.uk 11
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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER?
From a young age I’ve had a huge fascination for art within hair. Shapes, colours and blends – all these things I would see in magazines and then try to recreate on my mum or sister at home with household items!
TARIN SAWYERS SCOTT AGE: 20 SALON: HAZEL & HAYDN
WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? Working with Glamour magazine’s hair and beauty events, as well as working with big brands like AMIKA and Lee Stafford. On events like these I’ve been able to offer clients tips and tricks. It’s a different side of my job in which I can expand my skills in a new environment. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? In education and behind the scenes creating and trialling colour. I love colour especially – its full of endless possibilities. It’s all about creating something personal, whether it’s a full drastic change, or a change of tone/light. WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? Easy – to work with a queen like Beyoncé! Especially something like a live performance, where my work could be seen on a huge platform.
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#CHedit
Inside story FRENCH & IVI BELPER When Tracey Devine-Smith’s family commitments brought her to Derbyshire, she instantly fell in love with Belper, choosing the town for her new destination boutique salon. The ASP global ambassador has made it a family affair, joined by daughter Poppy Devine-Smith, to create an inviting space that from the moment you walk in feels like home. “We didn’t want it to be clinical or minimal; French & Ivi was all about creating a retro and boutique-style vibe that oozes personality,” explains Tracey. “Poppy and I love old junk shops with lots to look at, so it was important the space was interesting too.” It’s an eclectic combination of delicately patterned wallpaper, wooden pallets and a differing array of mirrors that delivers a mish-mash of colour, size and style. “I love the floor,” she adds. “We found it by mistake while working on the renovation. Imagine our delight when we discovered these 100-year-old tiles!” There are two more rooms to renovate when the time is right – renovations happened during lockdown – and the salon’s first day in business was the hallowed 4 July reopening day.
HOT BUYS
AS SEEN ON SCREEN
If you’ve decided to add screens to your salon, these Living Spaces foliagefilled glass box or printed screens from Twilight Trees add a botanical flavour that’s a little less clinical. From £440 01962 877 644 twilight-trees.com CREATIVE HEAD
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now open GARY INGHAM HAMPSTEAD
Reclaimed wood artisan Marco Merlini worked with the salon on this redesign, which feels both spacious and private, and is made from 100 per cent recyclable materials.
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THE BUSINESS EDIT
HOW CAN SALONS SWERVE POST-LOCKDOWN BURNOUT? AFTER FOUR MONTHS in lockdown, the vast majority of stylists, barbers and colourists across the land were desperate to get back to work, aware that they would be fully booked for some time, trying to see as many clients as they could. But tales from European countries that opened weeks before the UK spoke of stylists going all-out in the first couple of weeks before running on fumes, exhausted. It seemed to be evidence of post-lockdown burnout. So, what are UK salons and barber shops doing to avoid falling into the same trap? Caroline Sanderson, founder of Ego Hair Design in Inverness and Salon Jedi Coaching, had 400 calls the day she reopened salon bookings, so the team knew they were facing an extremely busy time ahead. She conducted a staff survey, which showed a staff fear level of returning to work at 4.9 (with 10 being the most afraid), while the level of excitement was 8.55. When asked to rate their mental health following lockdown, the average was 7. The team was awarded Salon Jedi Mindful Salon accreditation during lockdown, for working on incorporating mindfulness into their daily life and work. “We will continue to implement this in our salon,” adds Caroline. “We work with the team to help them reframe negative thought processes.”
For example, some of their concerns include the virus itself, but mainly the smooth running of the salon, whether worried clients may be upset if they can’t get the appointment times they want or about all the guidelines the team has to work to. “We turn it around. If staff wonder whether clients would be cross about the new systems, we explore ‘but what if they’re not?’. What if they’re thrilled to have their appointment and love their new hair? We encourage the team to start the day with a positive mindset and offer space to just breathe and regroup.” “We are doing two shifts, six days a week of six hours each. Although team members are working six days, its only 36 hours. So, it’s not really a burnout situation,” explains Keith Mellen of Anne Veck. “However, the key people who may be more vulnerable to serious burnout will be salon owners, especially working owners of small salons.” Indeed, he points to Anne as an example. Since reopening two stylists had to handle family health emergencies, all without warning, so Anne had to work 12-hour days until the salon could re-organise bookings. “The outcome we are working towards is back to normal hours as soon as possible,” says Keith. “Maybe with improvements – one of the plus points of this situation is it has allowed everyone to do some thinking.”
GAVIN MILLS,
BAD APPLE HAIR GROUP “During lockdown we partnered with YuLife to provide income protection and life insurance for our staff. It costs £25 a month for each member and a full package of benefits includes salary cover (up to 80 per cent) even in a pandemic; 24/7 access to counselling with our Employee Assistance Programme via video call; vocational rehabilitation to help employees get back to work and access to a Doctor on Demand service, with a 24/7 virtual GP and prescription service for members and their families. We’ve created a community around personal wellbeing in our workplace, using our company leaderboards. This allows staff to earn discounts, benefits and prizes such as £100 gift vouchers for walking to work and engaging in mindfulness. We also have regular Zoom meetings to talk over worries; I keep Thursday evenings free for staff who need one-to-one support. These initiatives will stay as long-term benefits for staff. It’s important to me that they feel secure and know that Bad Apple has their best interests at heart and can help in any wellbeing issues where possible.”
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LIFE LESSONS
BELLE CANNON SALON SLOANE
Don’t be afraid of responsibility. You have to make things happen and think ahead, keep striving.
Lead by example, communicating with and nurturing your team. This gets the best out of everyone. I always walk in and say good morning to the team and always praise them and recognise their achievements. I’ve always believed in treating people how I wish to be treated.
No mistakes would mean no opportunity to learn. Not everything you do will be successful; don’t stress about the failures. This is how you discover what works and what doesn’t – and how you find out what your strengths are.
Always stay positive and be prepared. Throughout the pandemic I’ve stayed positive, even though it’s been the most challenging time for the salon, my stylists and me. Having a positive outlook and keeping up team morale can make all the difference. When you’re positive, you get the best out of everyone.
CREATIVE HEAD
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#BusinessEdit
MISSION CONTROL
PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON in association with Phorest Salon Software AS SALONS ACROSS the UK reopened in July, Phorest Salon Software took a look at what that meant for booking trends and what the most wanted treatments were. Let’s see what happened in the first few days back in English and Northern Irish salons.
ONLY 5.6% OF CLIENTS WHO DIDN’T BUY A VOUCHER BAGGED AN APPOINTMENT IN THE FIRST TWO WEEKS BACK, COMPARED WITH 27.6% OF CLIENTS WHO DID
THE TOP 3
SERVICES BOOKED IN ENGLAND (FROM 4-10 JULY) 1. HAIRCUT 49.8% 2. COLOUR 27.7% 3. STYLING 7.9%
THE MISSION: MAKING IT SAFE
PHOREST’S NEW ABILITY TO PRE-SEND CONSULTATION FORMS HAS BEEN KEEPING SALONS SAFE AROUND THE GLOBE. IN THE FIRST TWO WEEKS OF JULY:
1,2a5do5pted
121,000
clients received salons end digital forms straight pre-s s m r o f to their phones tion consulta ir clients ahead of their for the appointme nts
With Covid-specific questions and disclaimers on all treatments and bespoke consultation questions on the customisable forms, salon owners have been able to not only get prior information on what their client will need, but also to reduce time in salon. Their days are running smoothly and cross-contamination caused by sharing devices or pen and paper has been eliminated, with all forms sent directly from the stylist to the customer. And it’s all safely, digitally stored in the cloud. CREATIVE HEAD
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DID YOU KNOW…
THE MIDLANDS LOVES HAVING HAIR EXTENSIONS, BUT FOR LONDONERS, THE PERM IS STILL A TOP FIVE TREATMENT CRUNCH TIME CAME for salons in Northern Ireland and England in the first week of July when reopening kicked off for the first two regions of the UK. With England opening its doors on 4 July and Northern Ireland following on 6 July, all eyes were on the salons paving the way for the rest of the UK. So, what did it look like? A spike in bookings, longer salon hours and set cleaning times between each client was standard across the board, but we delved further to find out which services clients came back for first. Perhaps surprisingly, haircuts were more in demand than colour, topping the bill by about 22 per cent more. The other treatments in the top five were colour (27.7 per cent), styling (7.9 per cent), hair treatments (5.5 per cent) and a perm (1.4 per cent). Regionally, the differences were clear: in the Midlands, the volume of hair extension appointments kept it in the top five both regionally and nationally, but for London and the rest of the country, the bodywave perm bumps extensions out of the number five spot, making up 1.9 per cent of bookings in the capital city. Working from home has also proved beneficial for the number of clients who are making the most of their flexibility to use business hours for their hair and beauty needs. In the first week of bookings, appointments made in the hours of 9am to 5pm, Monday through Thursday were up 2 per cent on last year with the trend increasing – meaning there are now more people booking salon appointments during business hours than not. Now that’s one Covid-related trend we could get used to.
Shauna O’Halloran is content & marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware 15
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COLOUR VISION
IT’S ALL HANDS ON DECK IN SALONS UP AND DOWN THE COUNTRY. KNOW YOUR WORTH AND DELIVER RESULTS YOUR CLIENTS HAVE BEEN MISSING, WITH THE HELP OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS IN ASSOCIATION WITH
TALK IS FREE! Wella Professionals Advisory Video Consultation appointments are the latest free offering to any professional hairdresser who needs technical advice now that they are back at work. Hairdressers can have a completely free 20-minute consultation via an Instagram video call with an experienced technician who will be able to help with any concerns. Each virtual appointment can be booked either with or without the client being present, and provides ideal support for the colour correction work that salons are experiencing. Appointments will run from 8am to 8pm and can be booked online at wellaeducationuk.com/#events
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
S COLOURISTS RUN INTO. WELLA PROFESSIONALS THE COLOUR CLINIC IS YOUR DROP-IN SERVICE FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO AVOID THE PROBLEM ICALLY AND FAIRLY IN A TIME-POOR REALITY CRAFT EXPERT JAMES EARNSHAW (@JHAIR_STYLIST) LOOKS AT PRICING YOURSELF REALIST A lot of colourists have a fear of knowing their worth. But it’s especially important to know now as clients are coming in with double regrowth! Wella’s profit calculator is an invaluable new tool that lets you work out exactly how much profit you’re making from each service. You might think you’re making £20 or £40, but it could only be £8 – it’s shocking. It’s been a major tool for going back to work – don’t stand there for an hour and only make £8 in profit, it’s not worth it. It’s really opened my eyes and it gives me the confidence to assess how much I want to make from a service. The calculator figures out exactly how much the colour that I’m using costs, how long that regrowth lasts, and tells me how much I need to make so that I can definitively know how much I have to charge. It’s not plucking a figure from the air, it’s factual. But if people aren’t willing to pay it, you should have the confidence to say no. Colour Renew ties into this well because it works quickly to break down colour molecules to give you one to two levels of lift, as well as removing toner build-up without affecting the natural colour and without any bleaching products. It’s great if clients have overdone it on the silver shampoo, or maybe tried to do their own roots – it can help to remove some of that deposit without it needing to tip into a super-long service. It takes between 15 and 45 minutes to work, and then a gloss over the top will have hair looking as good as new. It’s been a great asset in getting back to work.
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BlondorPlex is such a fantastic product – well done Wella Professionals, always one step ahead of the game! It’s the perfect addition to the Blondor family, offering up to 97 per cent less breakage when lightening.* More and more clients are becoming aware of efforts to maintain hair quality during chemical services, while still wanting to be playful with colour changes. It’s a great time-saver in the salon with no compromise on lift. Perfection!” MARY GEOGHEGAN (@MARYG.HAIR), STYLE DIRECTOR, KH HAIR
@daisy_goord
WHY I’M WELLA
*97 per cent less breakage when using WellaPlex N°2 with BlondorPlex, versus BlondorPlex alone
SHELFIE TIME
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
#ColourVision
I don’t think our industry has ever been through such a traumatic period and I honestly don’t know how I would have kept up my love and enthusiasm for hairdressing without the Wella Professionals online community. Although we are scattered across the globe, Wella Passionistas all have one thing in common: we are obsessed with delivering the best possible results for our clients. As a blonde specialist, it has been heart-breaking for me to watch as years of work have been put on hold. I cannot tell you how frustrating it has been to watch Hollywood stars promoting my worst nightmare; the box colour. Now that we’re back in the salon, we’re able to start sharing tips and techniques again among the Wella family. There is a mountain to climb in catching-up with all those missed appointments, but what an opportunity to produce those head-turning ‘before and after’ shots. I have absolute confidence that the Wella Professionals range gives me the products I need to obtain stunning results every time.” DAISY GOORD (@DAISY_GOORD), WELLA PASSIONISTA
KEEP YOUR CLIENTS HAPPY WITH EFFECTIVE AND EFFICIENT COLOUR SERVICES. THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS MASTERCLASS, FEATURING WELLA’S TECHNICAL DIRECTOR FOR UK AND IRELAND, ROBERT EATON, IS A SHORT ’N’ SWEET DEMONSTRATION ON HOW TO USE HIGHLIGHTS TO INCREASE PROFITABILITY AND SAVE YOU TIME DURING BUSY PERIODS. BEST OF ALL, IT’S TOTALLY FREE FOR ALL HAIRDRESSERS. GO TO EDUCATION.WELLA.COM TO FIND THIS AND LOTS OF FREE INSPIRATIONAL AND PRACTICAL EDUCATION, FROM COLOUR AND STYLING TO PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE AND BUSINESS SKILLS @wellahairuki #WellaColour #MakeChange CREATIVE HEAD
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Are you a... ...hairdresser looking for a salon? or ...salon looking for a hairdresser?
Hairdresser Jobs Uk&I Hairdresser Jobs UK&I is a NEW free recruitment Facebook group open to all hairdressers and salons, where hairdressers looking for work can be teamed with salons who are recruiting.
brought to you by Wella Professionals 2020-00350 BlondorPlex CH DPS_V3.indd 1
LEFT
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Introducing the new revolutionary
BLONDORPLEX Up to 97% less breakage* and no compromise on lift Bond Builder Technology included Up to 7 levels of lift For multi-blonde results FIND OUT MORE Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team Discover the products at wellastore.com | @wellahairuki | education.wella.com *when using BlondorPlex with Wellaplex N2, versus BlondorPlex alone
2020-00350 BlondorPlex CH DPS_V3.indd 2
20/07/2020 11:43
RIGHT
Ready, set, go AS THE FLAG LIFTS AND THE INDUSTRY ROARS BACK INTO BUSINESS, WE LOOK AT HOW TREATWELL IS HELPING ITS PARTNER SALONS TO COME BACK STRONG THE DEMAND FOR our industry is as high as it’s ever been. The British beauty industry accounted for almost 600,000 jobs in 2018, and from that hair services contributed more than any other service, with £6.3 billion spent by the British public. Upon the government’s announcement of lockdown lifting on the 4 July, demand went through. The. Roof. Treatwell registered a whopping 2,250 per cent increase in UK bookings, compared with the week before lockdown. Wow! Shaggy-haired gents booked in their droves, with Treatwell’s barbers seeing a growth of 1,223 per cent in demand, closely followed by women’s haircuts, which shot up by 1,158 per cent. And let’s not forget the roots situation; colour treatment bookings rose by 942 per cent. Clients are thrilled that salons are back in business – and Treatwell is ready to support the industry as it faces one of the most difficult and
busiest periods in memory. Throughout lockdown, Treatwell provided its partner salons with invaluable help and advice. Amid a period of intense uncertainty, it was a beacon of support to hair and beauty business owners. Treatwell’s Behind Closed Doors initiative – a Facebook group where beauty businesses could share updates, questions and concerns – proved to be an enormous success and will be continuing even as lockdown recedes. Its experts are on hand within the group for support, and to offer advice from its experienced finance, HR, legal and marketing teams. No question is too small, no worry left unaddressed. Whether you’re a salon owner or a trainee, it has been an indispensable platform that is sure to grow and evolve as we navigate a post-lockdown world.
Back with a bang
TREATWELL’S DATA SHOWED JUST HOW MUCH CLIENTS MISSED THE SALON:
DON’T LET THE SURGE IN DEMAND PASS YOU BY After months closed, salons are dealing with phones ringing off the hook and back-to-back bookings for weeks. Harnessing this demand and taking full advantage of the time you have is crucial. Luckily, a Treatwell partnership can give you the tools you need. Treatwell was hard at work during the shut-in, checking in with its customers about their thoughts on hair and beauty post-lockdown, what their priorities were, and how their habits may change with the times. All of this information has been distilled into key aspects of support that Treatwell offers its partners – from pricing initiatives and hygiene expectations through to how to maximise your availability and communicate with your clients. 20
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
REOPENING SAW A +2,250 PER CENT INCREASE IN APPOINTMENT DEMAND FOR THE FIRST WEEK BACK, AS SOON AS BOOKINGS WERE AVAILABLE
BOOKINGS HAVE BEEN SPREAD OUT ACROSS THE WHOLE DAY – GONE ARE THE DAYS OF THE DEAD MONDAY
CUSTOMERS ARE ACTIVELY LOOKING FOR ELEVATED HYGIENE AND SAFETY FEATURES IN SALON, AS WELL AS CLEAR COMMUNICATION ACROSS SOCIAL MEDIA, WEBSITES AND FROM SALONS DIRECTLY THE APPETITE FOR OUR SERVICES IS THERE, MORE THAN EVER. HERE’S HOW TO HARNESS THAT DEMAND…
CREATIVE HEAD
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The price is right THE NEW NORMAL MEANS A CHANCE TO DO BUSINESS DIFFERENTLY... ALL WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM TREATWELL. IS IT TIME FOR YOUR SALON TO THINK LIKE A DYNAMIC DOTCOM? LOOK AT YOUR menu and your price list. We mean really look at it. Because right now, it’s important to reassess your pricing models, to reflect the change in circumstances. Clients have been waiting for your services and Treatwell has noted that they are happy to pay handsomely for services they truly value. Look objectively at your prices – if they’re higher, don’t be afraid to say why. Don’t undersell yourself to try and be the cheapest in your area. Consider revamping your treatment descriptions, detailing the hygiene initiatives you’ve put in place for clients, and referencing the professional-level products you use. Remind clients why they missed you, and why you are worth the money. Many salons have cut the number of chairs in the salon, reducing income potential, so it’s important to put measures in place to maximise profitability where possible. Do you have clear peak times and dead periods? Consider dynamic pricing – where clients pay a different price depending on the day or time – to encourage a more even spread of clients. Many other industries use this, from hospitality to travel (you’ll have spotted this when booking an Uber on your phone we bet!), and it could be an instant winner, because clients are now familiar with paying more for popular times. At the other end of the scale, Treatwell partners benefit from built-in off-peak discounting tools, so you can help to encourage clients to book in during quieter slots.
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Rory MacParland, Sharps Barbers
“Treatwell has made our job easier – it does what we need it to do. It’s available online 24/7, it takes appointments, answers the questions. And as our partnership grows, I think there’ll be even more improvements. It was the right choice for us. “Our customer behaviour has changed, too, with more and more online booking. Our phone calls have dropped by 75 per cent since we’ve been with Treatwell. It makes a big difference for the guys on the floor because they know what times their customers are coming, what time they’re leaving, how much money they can make in a day. It’s a really reliable way to run a business. “Many systems tick some of the boxes, but they didn’t have any additional value – and the added value with Treatwell was the marketing aspect: new customers. Treatwell does a lot of reaching out to new customers, and that means we have access to them too. Other barber shops working with other systems don’t have that reach. So, Treatwell gives us the reach to new customers that our competitors just don’t have.”
CREATIVE HEAD
20/07/2020 13:23
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
Clean sweep KEEP YOUR HYGIENE AND SAFETY FEATURES FRONT AND CENTRE ANXIETY IS STILL high, so clearly communicating the efforts you’re taking to protect your clients will go a long way to encouraging them to book with you. Be sure to shout about the efforts you’re making on your website and social media, not just when they arrive in the salon. Treatwell partners have access to a detailed roster of hygiene precautions and recommendations, as well as templates for forms, guidelines and more materials to share with clients. Make sure your whole team is singing from the same hymn sheet and knows how to communicate your efforts in person, on the phone and online.
In the know
buttons to an existing site. With so many options available, Treatwell account managers can help you to customise and adjust your online presence effortlessly. Treatwell partners have access to a wide array of social media toolkits and templates, so you can create bespoke assets for your salon that appeal directly to your customers. With Treatwell Connect’s new marketing tools it has never been easier to communicate effectively with your clients.
Clock watching
ARE YOU MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR OPENING HOURS? Managing your team’s shifts is a delicate balancing act. Maybe you’re opening up for longer hours, or on more days, to best keep up with demand while still limiting numbers in the salon. It’s a tricky situation to be in – of Bar Hairdressing which is where your Treatwell account manager can help, by offering advice and insight on how to squeeze in as many services as possible. Tailor your hours to treatment demand – if colour demand is still through the roof, opening up on a Sunday might be more costeffective than adding on an extra hour in the evening. Treatwell means that you can make money out of hours too, as clients have a range of digital options for contacting you to book in whenever they want. Now is not the time to be missing out on appointments booked outside of working hours, so let Treatwell fill up your diary and ensure your salon is brilliantly busy.
“THINK ABOUT PROMOTING QUICK MAINTENANCE TREATMENTS TO FILL GAPS AND TO MAXIMISE THE NUMBER OF CLIENTS YOU CAN SEE TO BEGIN WITH. CLIENTS MIGHT BE HAPPY TO GET A TRIM TO TIDE THEM OVER AHEAD OF A LONGER APPOINTMENT”
TREATWELL ACCOUNT MANAGERS HAVE YOUR BACK You’ll have your hands full with managing the overflowing demand for your services – who’s Brent Mossop, owner going to be keeping an eye on what other people in the area are doing, or what you might be missing? Step forward your Treatwell account manager. They’re constantly monitoring data for you, to see which services are growing in demand or what would be the best fit for your salon. Pre-booked services are an absolute must, and if you’ve never fully embraced an online booking system – now really is your chance. Treatwell partners get the benefit of being listed on the busiest beauty site in Europe, as well as having the option to create their own website with integrated booking functionality, or the ability to add ‘Book Now!’
IF YOU’RE INTERESTED IN FINDING OUT HOW A TREATWELL PARTNERSHIP CAN BENEFIT YOU, VISIT TREATWELL.CO.UK/PARTNERS TO SIGN UP FOR A FREE CONSULTATION CREATIVE HEAD
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MW IT ’SUNM 20 VEMBER 9 1.N30OAM SUNDAY7PM2TO PRINTWORKS, LONDON
SINGLE TICKET £260 PLUS VAT PLUS VAT 10 £2,500LES TABLE OF BER AVAILABLE OF VIP TAB LIMITED NUM
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E L B A S M IS
D N A D E T N A W T S O M ’S D A E H E IV T CREA 0 2 0 2 L A N FI D N A R G T S LI IT E TH 0940 TICKET HOTLINE 01434 61
2020
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TEAM 2020 FINALISTS BEST NEW BOUTIQUE SALON For a new small salon with a unique sense of style
2020
Bond, London Don Hairport, London Paint + Powder, Stafford PR Hair, London The Secret Garden, Leicester
BEST SALON TEAM For salon teamwork at its best
Bloggs Salons Harbourside, Bristol Ego Hair Design, Inverness Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester Manifesto, London (King’s Cross) TINT, Leeds
BEST LOCAL SALON
For a salon that best serves its local community
DKUK, London Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester Sarai Hair and Beauty, Crowthorne Stag, Edinburgh Tuckwell & Co, Nottingham
BEST NEW SALON
MEET THE 2020 FINALISTS
SLAYING IT IN THE SALON AND STORMING THE SESSION SCENE… 2020 CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED FINALISTS HAVE BEEN NAMED
For a new or revamped salon with sustainability at its core
Adam Reed London, London Alchemy & I, Berkhamsted Gatsby & Miller, Amersham HENSHĪN, Co Limerick Mesart, Glasgow
BEST SALON EXPERIENCE For a salon that delivers top customer service
Gatsby & Miller, Amersham Mayfive, London Rose & Wild, London Sally Montague Hair Group, Ashbourne STIL, London
@CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT20 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED 024-029_MW Finals.indd 3
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INDIVIDUAL 2020 FINALISTS INDEPENDENT STYLIST
HAIR TREND
For a stylist looking after clients while busy building ‘brand me’
For the best on-trend image of the year
Gareth Bromell, HENSHĪN by Gareth Bromell, Ireland Anna Cofone, London Lisa Farrall, WIG London, London Leigh Keates, London Shaun McIntosh, London
Gareth Bromell, HENSHĪN by Gareth Bromell, Ireland Anna Cofone, London Richard Phillipart, The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port Leonardo Rizzo, Sanrizz, Guildford Anne Veck, Anne Veck, Oxford
MEN’S HAIR SPECIALIST For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating standout work in men’s hair
Leah Hayden Cassidy, London Tom Chapman, Torquay Louis Maharaj, Toni&Guy, London Rino Riccio, Manifesto, London Jody Taylor, London
CREATIVE TALENT
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise
Gareth Bromell, HENSHĪN by Gareth Bromell, Ireland Johanna Cree Brown, Trevor Sorbie, London Zoë Irwin, John Frieda, London Richard Phillipart, The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port Anne Veck, Anne Veck, Oxford
BUSINESS THINKER
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business
Gavin Mills, Bad Apple Hair, Liverpool and West Midlands Kyle Ross, Sovereign Grooming, Aberdeen Caroline Sanderson, Ego Hair Design, Inverness Simon Tuckwell, Tuckwell & Co, Nottingham Mark Woolley, Electric Hairdressing, Liverpool, London and southern England
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved a success for the salon business or the industry at large
Tim Binnington for Manta Hair Raymond Bottone & Simon Harris for MySalonManager Jessica Crane for Systemise For Success Peter Johnson for Itzi Adee Phelan for Thank You NHS gift boxes
SESSION STYLIST
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion
Syd Hayes Luke Hersheson Larry King Guido Palau Anthony Turner
HAIR ICON
For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2020
Sally Brooks Nicola Clarke Gary Gill Syd Hayes Zoë Irwin Guido Palau Adam Reed Eugene Souleiman Anthony Turner Josh Wood
MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL 2020
29.11.20
7PM UNTIL 1.30AM
WANT ON THE GUEST LIST?
COLOUR EXPERT
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise
Amy Fish, Larry King, London Ashleigh Hodges, London Jack Howard, Paul Edmonds London, London Zoë Irwin, John Frieda, London Paddy McDougall, Rainbow Room International, Glasgow
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2020
2020
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2020
THE RISING STAR
2020
FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT WHO IS ENTHUSIASTIC, HARDWORKING AND FAST IMPROVING – A NEW TEAM STAR!
John Alfred Paul Edmonds London, London Sandra Hahnel Trevor Sorbie, London Cameron Willetts Combers Inside-Out, Taunton Nathan Klein Simon Webster Hair, Brighton
THEY’VE GOT IT! TREND INFLUENCERS, GAME�CHANGERS, INNOVATORS AND STYLE�MAVERICKS… 30 EXTRAORDINARY TALENTS AGED 30 AND UNDER… MEET CREATIVE HEAD’S THE IT LIST 2020 FINALISTS!
Annabel Payne Toni&Guy, Salisbury
THE EDITORIAL STYLIST FOR A YOUNG STYLIST MAKING A MARK IN SESSION CIRCLES
Jack Baker Bad Apple Hair, West Midlands Lauren Bell Nicholas James, London Aidan Darcy Dublin Tom Gilling Adam Reed London, London Ryan Steedman Adam Reed London, London
THE ENTREPRENEUR
FOR A YOUNG SALON OWNER WHO HAS CREATED AN EXCITING AND SUCCESSFUL BUSINESS
Jack Baxter Baxter South, Glasgow Brooke Evans BE Ironbridge, Telford Katy Grimshaw Spectrum One, Rossendale Kyle Ross Sovereign Grooming, Aberdeen Ricky Walters SALON64, London
0 �CREATIVEHEADMAG #MWIT2 LIST EIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�TH 024-029_MW Finals.indd 5
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FINALISTS
MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL 2020
29.11.20
THE VISIONARY
FOR A YOUNG STYLIST OR TECHNICIAN WHO IS PUSHING CREATIVE BOUNDARIES
7PM UNTIL 1.30AM
Nikita Fisher London Marlon Hawkins Brooks & Brooks, London Pascal Lombardo Gielly Green, London Jordan Massarella NashWhite, Leamington Spa Shelley Sumner Huddersfield
THE IT GUY
FOR A YOUNG MALE HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONAL EXCELLING IN MULTIPLE AREAS OF THEIR WORK AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
Philip Benton Douce, Cambridge Aidan Darcy Dublin Tom Gilling Adam Reed London, London Alastair Jubbs VAE Hair, Norfolk Louis Maharaj Toni&Guy, London
THE IT GIRL
BE PART OF IT!
FOR A YOUNG FEMALE HAIRDRESSING PROFESSIONAL EXCELLING IN MULTIPLE AREAS OF THEIR WORK AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
Lauren Bell Nicholas James, London Ellie Bond Prema London, London Leah Hayden Cassidy London Jordanna Cobella Cobella, London Katie Hale Charles Worthington, London
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2020
2020
23/07/2020 14:36
Lve NEW LIVE STREAM FORMAT • ONLINE & ON DEMAND • SUNDAY 27 SEPTEMBER
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ONLINE AND ON DEMAND!
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Shine, shadows and an editorial finish. The Berlin-based haarmacher salon creative team confidently take their first steps away from street style in the glossy ‘Morph’ collection
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Direct from her NYC apartment, Tina Outen documents her journey learning how to style natural Afro and textured hair for creativeheadmag.com
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Explore new ideas for your team, business and salon’s future... from the comfort of your own home. Introducing Salon Smart Live
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Could Covid-19 cause a rise in colour reactions? Discover why patch testing is more important than ever, with PAINTER Casey Coleman
@creativeheadmag
23/07/2020 14:42
THE THRILL OF THE NEW NEW PLACES AND SPACES, NEW INNOVATIONS AND EDUCATION, NEW CHAPTERS OF THE STORY - WE’VE NEVER SEEN A SUMMER LIKE THIS IN OUR INDUSTRY. IT’S GONNA BE A HELLUVA RIDE... THIS SUMMER IS unlike any other as salons and barber shops up and down the land work flat-out to remedy lockdown hair disasters and catch up on all those missed appointments, with no traditional August lull in sight. It’s busy, busy, busy – but we know you are loving the fact that you can be creative again! Meanwhile, of course, the hairdressing and barbering landscape has completely changed, with a new way of working, new ways to gain education and a completely revamped calendar of events to get involved in. After months of anxiety, let’s focus on a little positivity and all the exciting changes that you can look forward to: education courses, educators and new techniques; events and competitions that were so sorely missed during lockdown, and new products and innovations. There are also plenty of stylists out there embarking on new chapters in their careers, unsure of what the future will bring but excited at the possibilities. This is The Thrill of the New, and it’s the roller coaster ride of the summer. Come and join the fun…
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21/07/2020 15:50
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DPS 2 – Event
THE SHOWS
THE SEASON OF COMPETITIONS AND EVENTS MAY LOOK A LITTLE DIFFERENT, BUT THERE’S STILL PLENTY TO GET EXCITED ABOUT…, SO START PLANNING AHEAD! PULP RIOT FEST
No Coachella, no Glastonbury... no problem! The have-to-be-there festival of 2020 won’t threaten sunburn or days of rain and mud, as you can attend from the comfort of your own home! Pulp Riot Fest is a digital festival on 23 August that will celebrate brilliant colour, share techniques, inspire with a drawing class and finish with a live DJ set. The stars on the virtual stage include Diana Francis, Tegan Robertson, Harriet Stokes, illustrator Tony Green and a collaboration between balayage specialist Sharell Halpine and ‘hair witch’ Heather Mackenzie. Your ticket includes an exclusive kit that will be sent to you ahead of time, including two tubes of Pulp Riot High Speed toner, your art outline for the drawing class and even a Pulp Riot beanie. But move quickly, tickets are limited. @PulpRiot.UK
WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY
The longest running hairdressing competition was due to celebrate its 65th birthday this summer, but the L’Oréal Colour Trophy UK Grand Final has moved to 2021. Make sure you note 7 June at Battersea Evolution in your diary. This competition had already seen an incredible display of talent at the photographic stage, with the Semi Finalists revealed in the spring. They will now compete in 2021 across the categories of L’Oréal Colour Trophy, Men’s Image Award, Afro Award, and the STAR Award for young talent. We can’t wait to see what the show teams have planned. lorealcolourtrophy.com
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For the first time ever, hopefuls entered the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award through Instagram and, thanks to a bit of a makeover, there are now six categories – Colour Artist, Colour Specialist, Craft Artist, Editorial Look, Men’s Hair and Style Master. The next round of the competition sees finalists create a new look and submitting it online with supporting videos and photos. “It gives us an opportunity to see the person behind the creation and hear their passion in their own words,” explained judge Akin Konizi. So, while we have no final in London’s Roundhouse this year, we’re sure Wella will reveal an epic virtual climax. Keep your eyes peeled for details. @WellaHairUKI
CREATIVE HEAD
23/07/2020 14:38
ents
MUST GO ON
MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS
Lockdown came into force a few weeks after the Most Wanted and The It List Awards had opened for entries, so it was time to shake things up to ensure anyone who wanted to compete still could. For the first time, both competitions were opened up to digital entries alongside hard copy ones, and you guys embraced the challenge with gusto! We received a record number of brilliant entries as you used the downtime to get stuck in to sharing your amazing stories and work. And a mere 48 hours after salons in England reopened, our A-list squad of judges met in their socially distanced numbers to peruse the incredible work, a testament to the reputation of both competitions. Thanks to their hard work, we now have our #MWIT20 finalists (see the full list from page 24), with the Grand Final on Sunday 29 November at the jaw-dropping Printworks, celebrating both Most Wanted and Creative HEAD’s 20th birthday. We think we’ll all be ready to party, don’t you? creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted and creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
THE ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW
The Alternative Hair Show is an iconic event committed to finding and promoting artistic hairdressers from across the globe while at the same time raising much needed funds for Fighting Leukaemia. Founder Tony Rizzo has presented the show every year since 1983 and the 38th show should have taken place in London… So if the world’s hairdressers can’t travel to the show, Tony will deliver it to them instead! The virtual Alternative Hair Show, IMAGINE, will be hosted online on 11 October by Tony and Alternative Hair Show global president, Anthony Mascolo. alternativehair.org
GOLDWELL CREATIVE AWARDS AND THE KAO SALON VIRTUAL EXPERIENCE
Goldwell had chosen 2020 to completely shake up its competition format. The trend-based Color Zoom Challenge was no more; this was the beginning of the Goldwell Creative Awards, a new global contest to showcase unlimited creativity. The competition is divided into two categories: New Talent Colorist, Creative Colorist and Creative Haircutter sit within the Technical category, while you’ll find the fresh Men’s Hairstylist, Salon Team, Avant Garde Stylist and Editorial Colorist awards under the Editorial category. Now the plan is for an even bigger debut in 2021, but mark 18 to 19 October in your diary for the Kao Salon Virtual Experience, a mix of live and pre-recorded material where new ambassador Angelo Seminara will unveil a new collection for the brand in a digital show. globalcreativeawards.com, kaosalondivision.com CREATIVE HEAD
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23/07/2020 14:38
YOU’RE A REAL LIVEWIRE LIFE MIGHT BE A ROLLER COASTER, BUT THIS CLEVER TECH CAN MAKE THE WHEELS TURN THAT LITTLE MORE SMOOTHLY. FROM HIRING HELP TO PAYMENT DELAYS, IT'S TIME TO PLUG IN
SAFERSALON
AVEDA A-COMMERCE
Want to earn from online sales but can’t face a website redesign or juggling stock levels? Then the new A-Commerce initiative from Aveda is for you. A readymade retail plug-in for your existing site, clients can shop for all their Aveda goodies. It’s all managed by Aveda and you earn commission. In UK trials, sales targets were smashed by 58 per cent! aveda.co.uk/professional
This is a one-stop shop for becoming Covid-19 compliant. If you’re unsure if your risk assessments are adequate, or if your new standards are compliant with the often confusing regulations, SaferSalon can help you by breaking it all down. You even get a certificate upon completion that you can display for your clients’ peace of mind. safertrader.co.uk/safersalon
Behind
Closed
Here to support UK & IE salons
Doors
TIMELY
Consult is Timely’s free app that offers you unlimited, customisable digital forms to help protect your business, staff and clients. Timely clients can access other smart services including the ability to host video consultations online, limiting time in-salon and providing you with a better idea of how to plan for appointments. The latest addition to this software hero is Laybuy, which gives you the option to have clients stagger their payments. With Laybuy you get paid straight away, risk free, while your client pays over six weeks – so everybody wins! gettimely.com
TREATWELL
PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE
While you may have been forced to start working differently due to the impact of Covid-19, it doesn’t mean that you can’t work smarter. Phorest has a host of features such as check-in notifications to get around the lack of a waiting area and push notifications for client check-in. It also has digital consultation forms that can be sent via SMS and email to clients in advance of their visit, with a Covid-19 questionnaire, too. phorest.com
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Be seen and be supported with Treatwell’s roster of connectivity help. From installing buttons on your existing website for easy online booking to your account manager monitoring meta data to keep you on the winning path, there are so many ways to make it work for you. Need help with social media? No problem. Want some guidance on dynamic pricing? It’s just a click away. There’s also the open-to-all Behind Closed Doors Facebook group, where Treatwell experts are on-hand to answer questions and provide a safe space for concerns and comments about the state of the industry. treatwell.co.uk/partners
WELLA PROFESSIONALS
Recruitment was difficult enough before the pandemic. Since then it’s only become more complicated, but Wella Professionals is looking to fill the void with a new Facebook group. Aptly named Hairdresser Jobs UK&I, it’s designed to team up hairdressers looking for work with salons that are actively recruiting, where salons can post vacancies and stylists can advertise their key skills and role requirements, and it’s open to all hairdressers. bit.ly/3eDx1wt
CREATIVE HEAD
23/07/2020 14:38
CREATE YOUR TOUCH SAFE ZONE WANT TO OFFER STAFF AND CLIENTS PEACE OF MIND WHEN THEY STEP INSIDE YOUR BUSINESS? HAIRDRESSERS AND BARBER SHOPS ARE TURNING TO ENVIRO-SAFE 28 UK TO MAKE THEM COVID-19 SAFE
SALONS HAVE FINALLY emerged from lockdown, facing queues of clamouring clients desperate to get their colours and cuts seen to. But many clients, alongside staff, were understandably nervous. Even if they followed government guidelines, would they be safe from Covid-19? In a high-touch environment such as a salon, with stylists working in close contact with those around them, it’s unavoidable that some will be anxious. But what if you could offer both your staff and your clients an extra level of protection? That’s where Enviro-Safe 28 UK comes in. It’s been busy helping salons by making locations safe with an innovative ballistic virus killer treatment service that uses a scientifically proven organic solution, tested successfully in UK laboratories against Covid-19. One of the main objectives set out by the government is ‘to keep the workplace clean and prevent transmission by touching contaminated surfaces’. The guidance states the need for ‘frequent cleaning of objects and surfaces that are touched regularly, including door handles or staff handheld devices and sanitising any reusable equipment, including client chairs and treatment beds’. It’s a constant, consistent job to stay on top of. “Disinfecting is only a temporary measure, and pathogens will soon grow back,” explains Kevin Hannant, director of EnviroSafe 28 UK. “When we visit a salon, our service technicians
propel a fine mist of an organic microbe shield solution to surfaces and common touch points, killing viruses and bacteria, and protecting for 28 days.” Yes, you read that right, the shield protects your salon for 28 days. The solution permanently bonds to surfaces and keeps critical areas and touch points hygienic for longer, leaving a 28day anti-microbial protective shield that results in a touch safe zone for all staff and clients. It’s something to shout about, and could make a real difference to clients considering your salon. On London’s iconic Kings Road, Lockonego chose to work with Enviro-Safe 28 UK to ensure its team, and its long waiting list of loyal clients, could return to the stunning salon with that extra level of reassurance. “We chose Enviro-Safe 28 because we wanted to implement safety measures that didn’t impact on our customer experience and journey,” says co-founder Jonathan Long. “For us it’s the most effective way to safeguard against the virus without wholesale changes to our salon environment.” Enviro-Safe 28 UK provides all treated salons and barber shops with a window sticker and provides a certificate of treatment, which shows that it is now a touch safe zone, creating much needed confidence. Clients and employees will know you salon takes safety seriously. Imagine what making that commitment could do for you.
To get your touch safe zone or to learn more about the Enviro-Safe 28 UK treatment, call 01603 579997, email info@enviro-safe28.co.uk or visit enviro-safe28.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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STREAM IF TO GO
FOR SUCH A HANDS-ON PROFESSION, BEING FORCED TO LEARN ONLINE DURING LOCKDOWN INITIALLY FELT A LITTLE JARRING. BUT THE WORLD OF DIGITAL EDUCATION OFFERS SO MUCH MORE THAN IT USED TO. STRAP IN AND GET EXCITED ABOUT WHAT'S IN STORE...
ACCESS BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
The Access platform has so many options – webinars are available from some of the best in the business – and you’re not limited by travel! Learn social media strategies from Redken colour queen Samantha Cuisick, or go back to school with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Home Academy series. A 360-degree approach to haircare from Kérastase is evident from its Power Hour: Hair Fall Reasons and Solutions. And we can’t forget the L’Oréal Professional Products Division Hygiene and Safety E-Learning, which covers everything hygiene related. lorealaccess.com
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AVEDA BUSINESS COLLEGE
When in-person education was impossible during lockdown, Aveda still delivered a full virtual programme and found an even bigger audience, more than 4,000 UK & Ireland Artists. So why not enrol at this hairdressing university for access to a collection of classes, events and toolkits focused on helping salon owners become sustainable and successful. From business and leadership to guest and team recruitment, this is a training and development hub that will make you financially fit and profitable. @avedaukpro
BABYLISS PRO
The BaByliss PRO Instagram feed is absolutely chock-full of behind-the-scenes content and education from some of the leading stylists in the UK who are pushing boundaries and subverting expectations. There are exciting #FridayFix tutorials and takeovers from the likes of Liam Campbell, Lisa Farrall, Wez Jones, Katie Mulcahy (pictured) and Matthew Sutcliffe, and they include the backstory and moodboards behind each and every look, not just the techniques themselves. And if you want even more detail on what you see, the BaByliss Pro YouTube channel is where it’s at. @babylissprouk
ghd
A new three-tiered education programme is on-hand to support you and your styling prowess. Led by ghd global head of education, Dafydd Rhys Thomas, the enhanced line-up of ghd educators now includes Chlöe Swift (pictured). The new-look education from ghd will be delivered across three categories: Salon Essentials, which covers fundamental everyday techniques for each tool in the collection; Trend, which covers seasonal styling updates and advanced techniques; and Innovation, which involves product-led education for the latest launches. @ghdhairpro
CREATIVE HEAD
21/07/2020 15:52
YOU WANT FASTER
GOLDWELL EDUCATION PLUS
Goldwell Education Plus puts world-class training materials in your pocket. The handy app is full of education from Goldwell’s talented stylists and colourists across the globe. Its YouTube channel features bold colour transformations, as well as subtle shades and techniques to offer seamless blends. And new Goldwell global ambassador Angelo Seminara (pictured) will embody the brand’s motto of ‘Creativity Never Stops’ by setting exciting bi-monthly challenges for KAO Salon Division partners and artists. youtube.com/ goldwelleducationplus
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PULP RIOT TV
What do you fancy watching? With Pulp Riot TV you have so many ‘original series’ on offer to inspire you, your fingers will be itching to grab your colour kit. For example, In The Cut follows Pulp Riot educator Doug Theoharis across the US as he visits some of the industry’s most impressive stylists. Short on time? The Ten is snapshot videos of 10 artists, showcasing 10 techniques all under 10 minutes. There’s also weekly IGTV education, and you can book free FaceTime education with resident colour guru and Pulp Riot UK educator, Adam Stockton. tv.pulpriothair.com
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ASK EDUCATION
The Schwarzkopf Professional eAcademy is available from any mobile device, ready to provide you with the latest product innovations and salon service support. ASK Education is extremely accessible, with videos covering colour, products and services at the backbar, styling as well as visionary hair hacks, tips, tricks and advice. Our favourite aspect is the quick, informal tests which you can run through after viewing videos to help consolidate and assert your new knowledge. ask-elearning.com
WELLA PROFESSIONALS
Wella Professionals has opened much of its online education up to all salons. All you need to do is sign up for a free account to access complimentary education. That means anyone and everyone can enjoy colour masterclasses from the likes of Robert Eaton (pictured), as well as helpful business tools such as SEO for Beginners. Wella is also offering free personal colour consultations via video – you can book a slot to speak to a Wella Master Colour Expert for advice. And Wella salons can access a handy colour Profit Calculator. education.wella.com
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“ I’M GOING TO BE PUSHED
INTO NEW REALMS AND I’M OPEN TO NEW EXPERIENCES… TO WHO KNOWS WHAT, I CAN’T PREDICT! ” IT’S ALL CHANGE FOR GUIDO PALAU, ONE OF THE WORLD’S BUSIEST SESSION STYLISTS, AS HE BEGINS A NEW CHAPTER WITH NO BRAND TIES AND A SHIFTING LANDSCAPE IN FASHION…. HE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE WHAT’S IN STORE...
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CREATIVE HEAD
21/07/2020 15:53
IT’S JULY, and session legend Guido Palau is back in his childhood stomping ground of Dorset, visiting family and generally unwinding after a lockdown spent in a badly bruised New York City. He’s excited to be within sight of working again, to get to pull those famous fingers through some heads of hair. “This is the beginning,” he says, “we start a new chapter, and everyone can’t wait to get back to work, especially creatives. I didn’t feel particularly creative in lockdown. I need to be working, to be around other people, working off their energy and connecting with my colleagues.” And it heralds a new start for him too. After 15 years as the global creative director for Redken, he is now a free agent. “It’s like a rebirth for me in a way,” he admits. “I’ve had such pivotal moments in that time, and I just don’t know what the future’s going to bring. But change is good. We’re creatures of habit, but now everything is going to change and we should be looking at that as a positive. I’m going to be pushed into new realms and I’m open to new experiences… to who knows what, I can’t predict!” He’s clearly been itching to get back to Europe, watching from the US as the continent slowly reopened its borders and started to tentatively feel its way into the new normal. Work in Paris and Milan is already booked. “There’s actually been a lot of work I haven’t been able to do in July because I wasn’t in Europe, which has been opening up much quicker than America,” he says. As this slow move out of lockdown occurred, he explains that “a lot of the luxury brands had to create content very quickly.” But that’s not to say he hasn’t been involved, albeit virtually. “I’ve been on a lot of calls, on a Zoom meeting with Mrs Prada and Pat McGrath,” he explains. “It’s not easy. I had to direct one of my brilliant Italian assistants, who was there doing the hair. I wanted to reach through the screen.” He continues: “We came up with an idea and I then had to test the look in New York, photograph and film it, send it to Prada, then send it on to my assistant and get her to recreate it.”
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He admits it’s all been a little “weird”, referring also to a project with McQueen where the label was keen to reproduce the hair from the A/W20 show for its campaign, and Guido was called upon to digitally lead one of his assistants present. “I hope that doesn’t continue – I like to be there, to do that final touch.” That is now mouth-wateringly on the horizon. A presentation for Dior in July had no live audience but a digital audience of 20 million. “It was a scaled-down production but still exquisite. And we took every precaution,” he explains. “People will go back to session with different mindsets, different attitudes.” In Europe, some shows are being planned, such as an outdoor event outlined by Burberry, a show that Guido regularly leads on hair. “It’s really exciting,” he says. “In general, I think brands would love to do shows and be creative, but the news changes each day. So, at the moment it’s fingers crossed that there will be presentations and some small shows.” But what will continue, and what the new landscape will look like for fashion and for the globe-trotting session stylist in general, is still hazy. With just weeks before the Fashion Week circus would normally begin in New York, everything is still in question. “New York has been hit hard, and I’m not sure what will happen. It’s very tense there, and September might not be the right time…” he says. However, he is adamant that because of the impact of the pandemic, the “crazy political time” in the US and the global protests fuelling the Black Lives Matter movement, that “we’re going to see some great creativity, especially young talent reacting to what’s happening”. He explains: “Young people are more political and more aware, and all of that together will create a great creative moment.” It’s all there, tantalisingly close. And it’s the anticipation that is exciting. “I’m not sure what kind of hair I want to do,” he laughs. “I just want to be more creative, to feel like myself. I think I lost a bit of that in all this.” We couldn’t agree more.
FASHION FORWARD
FASHION WAS LEFT SCRAMBLING TO FIND ITS FOOTING WHEN COVID-19 HIT, BUT SOME HAVE ALREADY SHOWN WHAT’S POSSIBLE…
CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS
A brilliant illustration of a creative industry finding a way forward, the iconic art school curated a 20-minute film showcasing the collections of all 106 graduating BA Fashion students. Long-time sponsor L’Oréal Professionnel linked students to hairstylists to collaborate virtually. See more in Runway A/W20 next month.
NABIL NAYAL
Revlon Professional global influencer, John Vial, created the hair for images that the brand shot for Nabil’s virtual show and played as part of the BFC’s move to a digitalonly, gender-neutral event instead of the biannual London Fashion Week Men’s.
BURBERRY
The British brand has announced that it is planning a virtual fashion show for its S/S21 collection, with designer Riccardo Tisci saying it would pay homage to the label’s heritage of outdoor pursuits with an outside event that will be streamed globally.
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23/07/2020 16:11
PERCY’S PASSION PROJECT IT’S A NEW ERA AND A NEW LOOK AT PERCY & REED, AS PAUL PERCIVAL GOES IT ALONE. HERE’S HOW HE’S MAKING SURE HE HITS THE RIGHT NOTE ON LONDON’S Great Portland Street, Percy & Reed has been a mainstay for more than a decade. But those returning to work nearby have seen something rather different. Following the move by original founders Paul Percival and Adam Reed to concentrate on their individual paths, this location is being reborn as Percy at Percy & Reed. “What’s exciting about this is I get to be my own brand, I get to be me,” says Paul. Going it alone means he can bring his background in the music industry to the fore. “I’ve spent 25 years working with bands in the UK,” he says, and still styles loads of recording artists and record company execs, as well as BBC staff based up the road from the salon. So he now wants to push even harder to make sure that his contacts knows he’s here. “I need to own that space, that’s very much my USP,” he admits. He’s returned to a salon vibe akin to relaxing in a townhouse, a creative space. “And what’s really important is that the space itself feels like somewhere you’d want to live, rather than a show room or a clinical space,” he says. The exposed brick, Belmont barber chairs, metal units that are ’70s relics scavenged from Sony Music, it all represents the Percy ethos perfectly – there’s history here. A sleek black shelving unit serves to put that
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personality and the brand on display alongside evidence of his new partnership with Redken; rather than regular hair pictures you’ll spot a limited-edition print of David Bowie (one of Paul’s icons) alongside a vintage record player and LPs for clients to choose to play while reclining on the plush blue velvet sofa. There’s no reception desk to speak of; appointments are handled upstairs, with a member of the team making their way down to meet guests as they arrive. “The idea of reception areas is kind of done now in the salon,” says Paul. “I think this is really nice as we make it feel like somebody’s at home.” His personal passion is infused throughout for good reason – he used the lockdown to overhaul the space with his carpenter dad. “I needed to try and use the opportunity to change up the salon. It was a gamble because we didn’t how long we’re going to be in lockdown for, and trying to get supplies was a nightmare. Dad’s genuinely one of the best carpenters I’ve ever come across, and while I originally trained as a carpenter, it’s been a long time! But there’s something really nice about the fact that when I look around now, I know it was us.” Paul adds: “I feel like I’ve now got a space and a representation of my brand that I can grow and that’s the most important thing.”
CREATIVE HEAD
23/07/2020 14:39
Photography by Harvey Williams-Fairley CREATIVE HEAD
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ROLL UP! ROLL UP!
FRESH FORMULATIONS AND TECHNIQUES ARE FUEL FOR THIS INDUSTRY’S CREATIVE FIRES. WHAT’S GOING TO HEAT YOU UP THIS SEASON?
BOTANICAL REPAIR FROM AVEDA
Consumers are realigning their priorities, to focus on supporting brands they trust and products that are clean, safe, vegan and promote hair health. So let us tease a huge new launch coming from one of the original innovators in that natural landscape, Aveda. This September it will release its new Botanical Repair collection, with plantpowered technology to strengthen and repair damaged hair. Six years in development, it’s 93 per cent naturally derived and uses molecular plant technology to build bonds at the hair’s core. The clever formula means three key layers of hair are repaired and protected, multiplying bonds vital to reinforcing the hair’s strength and integrity. It’s perfect for all hair types and textures, including coloured hair. This will fly off the shelves! aveda.co.uk
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THE KNOT DR. CASES AND KLEEN BRUSH CLEANER
We all panicked about PPE earlier this summer, with some stylists bulkbuying cling film to keep their brushes safe. Well, we have a rather more stylish alternative that clients will want to take home themselves too. The Knot Dr. collection of detangling hair brushes is already a firm favourite across the globe with professionals and consumers alike, but did you know that there’s a clever protective case that’s easy to wipe down, and an exclusive brush cleaner, the Kleen? Well, now you do. The cases are available as head cases or full brush cases, depending on the range, and standard black cases for The Pro and Pro Brite can be bought too. And they’re available in displays, ready to retail alongside the brushes for your safety-conscious clientele. The Kleen is a hard worker you’ll love using between clients, as the clusters of soft bristles effortlessly remove all hair, product residue and dead skin cells from the brush head and pad. PPE has never looked so chic. theknotdr.com
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23/07/2020 14:39
Adam Reed London
SERIE EXPERT FROM L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PUREOLOGY
It’s a retail legend, the insider secret of many a beauty editor’s bathroom. Firm favourite Pureology has enjoyed something of a tweakment, with enriched aromas and updated formulas and packaging so that they are also free from mineral oils and phthalates. That means 100 per cent recyclable bottles created using 95 per cent post-consumer recycled materials. pureology.co.uk
Just as the properly clever Serie Expert Pro Longer collection was unveiled by L’Oréal Professionnel, we went into lockdown. So now, stylists are welcoming clients back with longer hair, and many opting to keep the length. In steps the body-boosting range that focuses on those final few inches to make them look plump and in their prime. The Filler Concentrate, applied at the backwash, serves a key ingredient in the Microtrim service available at Adam Reed London. “Thin, unhealthy-looking ends are one of the biggest concerns for my clients and this perfectly answers that demand,” says L’Oréal Professionnel UK editorial ambassador, Adam Reed. “Pro Longer plumps and thickens ends to look full and healthy.” lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
INTERSTELLAR FROM PULP RIOT
Going stratospheric in September will be the Interstellar collection from Instagram favourite, Pulp Riot. A permanent deposit-only range created by educator Doug Theoharis, it’s the newest series in the Faction8 line in the UK. It features eight new shades and is created with the colourist in mind, so you can alter how much developer you use for a result that’s truly individual. You can also mix Interstellar with all of Pulp Riot’s High Speed toners and the rest of the Faction8 range. Can you keep up? Check out your local branch of Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital or Salons Direct. pulpriothair.com
ENVIRO-SAFE 28 UK
You’re back the salon – hurrah! – and you’re getting the chance to be creative again. But it would be understandable if there was a nagging worry at the back of your mind about the risk of Covid-19 in the salon, even when following all the government guidelines. Well, what if we told you there was a service that offered a 28-day protective shield around the salon, giving you, your colleagues and your clients that extra layer of protection, and a bit more peace of mind? Yup, it exists – Enviro-Safe 28 UK sends in experts who spray a fine mist organic microbe shield solution to surfaces and common touch points, killing viruses and bacteria. The solution permanently bonds to surfaces and keeps critical areas hygienic for longer. enviro-safe28.co.uk
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JUST THE TWO OF US
WHEN YOU’RE LAUNCHING SOMETHING NEW IT’S GOOD TO HAVE YOUR BFF BY YOUR SIDE. ELLENORA DEAN, CO-FOUNDER OF FRY+DEAN, SHARES THE THRILLS OF BECOMING A SALON OWNER WITH HER BEST MATE, BILLY FRY MANY OF US can appreciate that feeling of wanting something new, something fresh, something different. It can be risky to make a change, but when you have your best friend by your side, suddenly everything feels that bit more safe. That’s the situation Billy Fry and Ellenora Dean found themselves in; both looking for that next creative challenge, something to reignite the spark. They decided to jump together. For a while they toyed with various options (“I was even going to move to Dubai – thank God I didn’t. Gingers don’t cope well with 50-degree heat!” she laughs) and came to the conclusion that to be in an environment they would love, they would need to create it themselves. So that’s exactly what they did on Hackney Road in East London, in a former florist. “After six years of working together, and two years of living together, we knew that we were strong enough to tackle the epic task of opening our own salon,” she says. “I couldn’t imagine doing this with anyone else – he’s my best friend, we absolutely understand each other.” The Fry+Dean space is laid back, with a “living room” kind of feel. A space that hairdressers and clients could both feel at home and use as they wish; to relax, to work or to socialise.
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Opening just before Christmas last year, Ellenora admits the first few months were hectic but fulfilling. “We had prepared ourselves mentally for the stresses to expect so that was no surprise,” she says. “But what was surprising was that we weirdly loved the stress because it was ‘our’ stress, and seeing the results of hard work made it all worthwhile.” After the initial anxiety over salon lockdown, that time shut down became a gift to the pair (Billy raised four chickens from eggs and Ellenora started renovations on a house, swapping her balayage brush for a paintbrush). “We had time to revisit the business strategy and utilise the time to create a future game plan, which is something we now feel very grateful for.” That game plan now is focused on recruiting staff to give the duo time to step off the floor and work on the business rather than just in the business. They’re also developing their own education for apprentices. “We plan to work now on expansion, growing the team with more like-minded people and building the brand,” she says. “We also have a fun new idea, but for now this will have to be a secret until we are ready to launch our new concept in 2021!”
CREATIVE HEAD
23/07/2020 14:40
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E H T L LEVE
OUT REPRESENTATION IN AB NS TIO ES QU S OU RI SE D OTESTS HAVE RAISE G TO CAMPAIGN FOR VIN HA ILL ST THE BLACK LIVES MATTER PR E AR RS SE ES DR YLIST W IS IT THAT IN 2020 HAIR ALITY OF LIFE AS A BAME ST THE UK HAIR INDUSTRY – HO RE E TH AT S OK LO AD HE E S? CREATIV EDUCATION IN ALL HAIR TYPE
ERROL DOUGLAS MBE
JUNE FORBES
Errol knows that this conversation is nothing new – but it’s one that he hopes will now create real change
It’s only by discussing and exposing the difficult truths that we can move forward together, says June
ERROL DOUGLAS LONDON
“When we first set up in Knightsbridge we had a lot of opposition. We got the lease, obviously, but there were a few frowns. People ask me all the time: ‘Are you Errol?’ when I’m standing in my shop, underneath my name. You can’t come out and say it, but it’s there, all the time. If I just dwelled on everything I would be a broken man, but that’s not my ethos. “I won’t let anybody hold me back because if you think like that it stops you from breathing. We’ve educated hundreds of people at Errol Douglas London over 22 years and always encompassed everyone – Afro hair, European hair, Arabic hair, Indian hair – that’s how everyone should be taught. “It shouldn’t be happening but you can only educate as much as people want to hear. People are people; they don’t shock me because I’ve been around long enough to know it’s not going to hold me down. I’m a businessman, a mentor and a teacher – so I have to show resolve all the time.”
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FREELANCE HAIRDRESSER AND INDUSTRY CONSULTANT
“Sadly, what we are seeing is a reflection of attitudes to physical difference that have permeated throughout society for centuries. Some behaviours are so ingrained that they have become internalised and normalised by both the perpetrators and the victims. To talk openly about it is uncomfortable, because it often reveals many unacceptable truths. Yet the dialogue is necessary to bring about change. “One of the hard but sad truths is that while most trained hairdressers of BAME heritage have always been ready and able to deal with any hair type, if a hairdresser who does European hair is able to style Afro-Caribbean hair, they are often hailed as having a particular talent. However, the same is not said of myself or many other stylists from my community for whom styling any hair type is often standard. “Salons can push for and implement change by insisting that training establishments employ universally experienced tutors. Salon owners also have a responsibility to recruit more diversely and encourage the sharing of skills. This would lead to a wider distribution of skills and opportunity for everyone.”
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21/07/2020 15:14
G N I Y A L P field SANDRA GITTENS
EDUCATION CONSULTANT AND AUTHOR
Sandra has watched in frustration as basic education and competency in curly hair types has receded, but believes mandatory education would help turn the tide “Training in naturally curly hair has actually been taught in the UK since 1984. When I took up a post at London College of Fashion, we taught naturally curly hair or Afro-Caribbean curly hair types. I sat on Habia’s standards boards and developed training criteria. The problem is it’s never been mandatory. Over the years the education course content for naturally curly hair has diminished, and now we have a problem. Many of us fought to see standards that worked across all hair types; but the industry has sadly regressed. “Mandatory qualifications would help tremendously. My frustration lies in the fact that the current qualification is perceived to be more about hair typing and identifying curl patterns, which we have always covered educationally in hair characteristics. Curly hair is present in all races, and therefore should not be seen as only present in people with BAME heritage. “All curly hair, regardless of race, is naturally drier and requires more skill, experience and product knowledge. For this reason, the inclusion of naturally curly hair should be embedded within national standards for all.”
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RIANNA HENRY FREELANCE STYLIST
Being under-appreciated for her flexible skills and encountering racist attitudes has become a constant source of disappointment for Rianna “For my Level Three NVQ I wanted to focus on textured hair, but at the time I could only find two colleges in London that offered an appropriate course. “I wanted to make sure I understood the theory, not just the practical side. I wanted to make sure I understood why I was doing things, not just ‘this is how it’s done’. So many people lack a basic knowledge when it comes to AfroCaribbean hair. “I specialise in blow-drys, I love doing a blow-dry, but assumptions happen all the time. Clients recommend me to someone else, and when I appear they give me The Look, the one that says: ‘Oh, okay, you’re Rianna’. I try to let that initial reaction fly over my head, I’ve got used to it, but the regular comment of “you do great blow-drys for a Black girl” – the minute someone says that, I will not have them again. “Then there’s session work, where I often find I’m only called upon because there’s an Afro-haired model, rather than being called upon because I’m a great hairdresser. “But I don’t let it hold me back; if anything, it’s the reason I fight harder.”
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The Change
makers
QUESTIONS ARE BEING ASKED, HARD TRUTHS ARE BEING REALISED, AND PROGRESS IS BEING MADE, ALBEIT SLOWLY. THESE INITIATORS ARE DRIVING CULTURAL AND STRUCTURAL CHANGE
TEXTURE MATTERS
Even as a newly qualified stylist now at Blue Tit London, Jem Bradley (pictured below) knew there were skills missing from her education – particularly how to work with Afro-Caribbean hair. So she set up a petition on change.org in the hope of making textured hair skills part of the curriculum for NVQs and the incoming Trailblazer Apprenticeship standard. It attracted thousands of signatures and the attention of high-profile names such as Little Mix
#TEXTURENEUTRAL
Lisa Farrall, owner of WIG London, has been offering training in all hair types since 2016 in an effort to teach stylists how to be #TextureNeutral. Whatever skills you’re missing, she wants to offer a safe space to learn “It’s not about skin colour; it’s about hair texture. It’s about putting education out there, it’s not about segregating hair salons – I think it’s important to understand that we’re not taking up space, we’re creating space. This isn’t something that’s happened overnight; we launched courses in 2016, I’ve been shouting about it for a long time. We should be able to have that bonding experience in a salon no matter the client’s hair texture or the colour of their skin. “People shouldn’t say: ‘there’s not enough clients with Afro-Caribbean hair in my area, there’s not a need for it’. Like learning cut and colour in college, just because you’ve learnt it doesn’t mean you’re going to become a specialist. It means you’re able to deal with any type of hair and not turn anyone away. No-one should be made to feel that they can’t come into your salon.”
“The petition has been a long time coming, I’m sure it’s a conversation a lot of people were having with their colleagues or thinking to themselves. And I’m sure there are some people wondering why they didn’t learn this hair type either. “When the petition hit more than 10,000 signatures, the conversation really started to take off. From what I’ve seen, it’s been taken really positively. The petition is simply to get that basic level of education for all services – it’s not asking you to specialise. If you have a newfound love for it, then great, go ahead!”
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LET’S TALK ABOUT IT
The scale of change needed can appear overwhelming, but we have to understand it to start, says Farah Khan, director at Benedict Hair & Beauty “The most important place to begin would be to engage in dialogue and educate ourselves on the problems BAME people face. We cannot dismantle or challenge something that we don’t understand, and in order to understand it we must open the door to conversation. We have to actively seek advice from those who are outside of our communities, create a safe space to talk about diversity, discrimination and understand each other’s struggles. The conversation isn’t always comfortable and that’s okay; don’t let that stop you from starting a dialogue. If we’re willing to listen and intend to change then we’ll defeat this together. “We claim to give people the creativity to be themselves, but often a BAME stylist only gets noticed for being good at Afro-Caribbean hair, when the likelihood is they’re an all-rounder. Or someone like me, who is modestly dressed, will constantly be judged by people thinking my attire limits my ability to perform. Everyone should get the freedom to express themselves how they want, without the constant barrier of feeling like they have to conform to social ideals of what it means to look the part.”
MAKE ROOM AT THE TABLE
Fair and equal representation will help to encourage permanent change, says celebrity hairstylist Dionne Smith “Before hiring an agency to manage my fees, rates were low, treatment was different and I felt as though it was harder to get the same level of booking as my Caucasian counterparts. When you do get those bookings, it seems as though you are only booked if there is textured hair and one of the stylists can’t do it. I would say there definitely is unfair treatment. “There should be more textured hair specialists on mainstream films, shoots and on the catwalks. BAME stylists should be given the opportunity to be more visible in the press and more high-profile brands should encouraging us by collaborating with us, including us on their social media handles, giving us shout outs, and sharing our work. Our customer base spends money too, so I think it’s only right we get included and not feel like it’s only when they need something specific they call on us. “Complete inclusivity needs to be across the board and at every level. Hair is hair, so if you’re calling yourself a hairstylist you should be able to style all types.”
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20/07/2020 15:26
In times of political unrest the past can have a powerful pull – and it’s this fusion of fond memories and future dreams that has inspired Newstalgia, the A/W20 Trend Reveal from ghd and its UK brand ambassador, Adam Reed PHOTOGRAPHY BY CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Adam Reed for ghd. MAKE-UP Claudine Blythman. STYLING Ozzy Shah.
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20/07/2020 15:27
Sam, I am
MEET SAM, THE STAR OF KEVIN KAHAN’S LATEST COLLECTION, WHICH SHOWCASES THE EVOLUTION OF ONE MAN’S STYLE. FROM LUSCIOUS SAMSON-ESQUE LENGTHS THROUGH SPIRALLING CURLS AND A RAMONES-INSPIRED BOWL CUT, THE STRIKING IMAGES PAY HOMAGE TO HAIR’S VERSATILITY PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES
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HAIR Kevin Kahan at Kevin Kahan. MAKE-UP Katherine Sykes at Kevin Kahan. STYLING J&B.
The final result
Blow-d rying the hair straight before starting
Meet Keira...
I did this. A close up of the braids
In the
frame Stuck in New York City during lockdown, session stylist Tina Outen (@TinaDidIt) wanted to improve her textured hair skills, and kept a diary of her progress. See her full story at creativeheadmag.com!
Preppin g ahead of the twists
SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
It’s a dolls house now, with lots of different texture s to play with
Getting those section s spot on
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Got to have the right tools for the job
Beautif ul @ia mdomrobinson wearing box braids for @bobbibrown. I’ve always brought speciali st braiders to set with me, these created by super-t alented @1nata shataylor. Now I can fully appreci ate the a mount of work this perfection deman ds!
F ingerti ps going flat-out with braidin g CREATIVE HEAD
23/07/2020 14:42
Introducing two new multi-taskers.
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