Creative HEAD UK Christmas 2022

TAKE CHARGE

with The Original Cordless Iron

The Original Cordless Iron is the newest addition to CLOUD NINE’s styling tool range.

Giving you the freedom to be who you are, wherever you are. Take charge of your style on the go, tame a flyaway, smooth a kink, top up a curl and never lose a look with The Original Cordless Iron.

Bumble and bumble began life as a collective of stylists in 1977 in a salon on the fringe of New York’s Hairdressers Row. As Bumble and bumble hairdressers, we couldn’t find the high-performance products we needed to work with on set, in salon and backstage, so we created our own.

Our products are pro-curated, backstage-vetted and life-tested for real, powerful results. Always cruelty free.

Bumble and bumble are always at the forefront of Fashion Week. This season we worked on shows that focused on embracing and enhancing texture in the hair, telling a story of movement, inclusivity, individuality, and understated elegance.

At the Christopher Kane S/S 23 show, Hair Lead, Sarah Jo Palmer, enlisted a team of talented Bumble and bumble salon stylists to support backstage, creating five looks for the show. From broken-up, loose waves with lived-in texture, to tightly sculpted cool chignon buns, there was plenty of hair to get excited about.

We pride ourselves on our bespoke and unique approach to nurturing talent and supporting the growth and development of our salon community. Don’t just take our word for it, let’s hear it from some of our Bb. Stylists backstage at Christopher Kane S/S 23…

Mari Hutchingson, Stylist SALT Salon, London

“It meant a lot working on something like this as a young stylist. The products are amazing and something I will now always use and trust. The team are so supportive and enthusiastic, I love how they get up and coming salons and stylists involved.”

Naomi Brooks, Director of The Hair Sanctuary, Manchester

“As a brand, Bumble and bumble involve their community in all their projects and events which offers some great opportunities. Bb. products have a diverse range and allow you to create all types of shapes and textures.”

Claire Higgs, Director of Nylon Hair Artists, Reading

“Bb. has always been a favourite backstage for me. The team are always welcoming and super talented, no matter what stage of your career you are at, your knowledge always grows.”

Looking to add professionally-tested runway-worthy hair products to your salon? Contact us by email: oabergel@bumbleandbumble.co.uk or Call: 07747 648 935

Treatwell PRO not just a marketplace

A new all-in-one salon management software that focuses on what matters – full scale organisation for your business.

From allowing you to manage all your admin, data, insights and marketing along with providing you a steady stream of new clients via the Marketplace.

Find out how it works

WHILE THE NEWS is full of doom and gloom about the financial future, I keep thinking back to Mark Woolley’s acceptance speech at the Most Wanted and It List Awards Grand Final. Yes, it might get tougher, but we’ve survived recessions and lockdowns, we can face whatever lies ahead of us with positivity and a plan. His wise (and uplifting) words feature in our roundup of tips and advice from MWIT22 winners (from page 52), sharing the one thing they feel you should focus on next year. It’s simply bite-sized brilliance. Speaking of the latter, have you been chuckling away at Sam McKnight’s pithy comments and asides on The Big Blow Out? It’s revealed a new side of the fashion legend, and I was lucky enough to hang out with him at his west London studio to chat about the turn his career has taken (from page 42). For him, postlockdown, the focus has been on doing ‘new’. It’s a mindset that I can applaud as 2023 hurtles towards us, we shouldn’t be scared to try the new. What will your ‘new’ look like? Tell us at @creativeheadmag! The Creative HEAD team wishes you a wonderful Christmas and the happiest New Year… we have so much planned for you in 2023!

JOIN US!

What. A. Year. Creative HEAD events have certainly kept us busy in 2022 and we’re not done yet! After the roaring success of The Coterie: In Session in Manchester (take a look at page 76) we decided to treat you to another… Catch The Coterie in London on Monday 21 November where we have a hot panel line-up, including Ky Wilson and Jay Birmingham, discussing a new era for hairdressing. Hurry to page 68 for ticket details! SELF/ STYLED Sunday is back for one last hurrah this year on 27 November. Sign up to tune in to four sessions all about fostering lasting relationships. Catch the line-up on page 70. For our business advice-seekers, we’ve got you covered too – check out the latest Salon Smart HUB drop – get the details on page 66. creativeheadmag.com/events

HAIR IS AN ART START WITH TOTAL CLARITY

The NEW OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment deeply cleanses hair to the cortex, creating a clean slate for optimal in-salon service results.

As professionals, we want our results in salon to be the best they possible can, whether that’s doing colour, perms, keratin or any other treatments. As with most things, so much of the success is in the preparation, so ensuring our clients’ hair is in the best possible condition to take these treatments is essential.

The OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment is a powerful, high-potency professional product to remove cortex-level deposits of product buildup, oil, hard water minerals, chlorine, heavy metals, pollutants, medications, and discoloring iron and copper to create a clean slate for better results from any chemical service.

The non-stripping formula is boosted with Kakadu Plum Extract, which is rich in Vitamin C to help preserve essential proteins and moisture within the hair, so you can confidently remove the bad stuff from the hair you don’t want and retain the good stuff you do.

AVAILABLE AT WWW.UK.OLAPLEX.COM AND YOUR LOCAL PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR: ASTON & FINCHER, CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY, SALLY BEAUTY, SALON CONCEPT, SALON PROMOTIONS, SALONS DIRECT AND XPERT PROFESSIONAL.

MURRAY MCRAE, STAG

KEITH MELLEN & ANNE VECK

SHARON ROBINSON

HARRIET STOKES, HUMANKIND HAIR

KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL

SYD HAYES, Q CUT

MARK MACIVER, SLIDERCUTS

SUBRINA KIDD

Hair by CLOUD NINE. Photography by Guy Farrow.

KNOW

CHARLES WORTHINGTON TO CLOSE ITS DOORS

Charles Worthington, one of the most iconic names in British hairdressing, is retiring and closing his business in January 2023.

Originally launched 35 years ago, Charles went on to rede ne the modern face of British hair and customer experience in the salon. He also launched a hugely successful product line, a salon in New York at the turn of the century, and was the resident TV hair expert on This Morning for a decade.

Earlier in the year, his Percy Street salon in London was shuttered, with staff moving to the remaining House of Charles Worthington location in Covent Garden. This will now close in January as Charles, his partner Allan Peters, and the team “hang up our scissors”. “We hope our legacy will inspire the new guard stepping forward and carry the baton of our dynamic, unique industry,” he said in an email.

JASON HALL LEADS FASHION IN MOTION

GUEST ARTIST Jason Hall headed an all-star team from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris to showcase the work of designer Thebe Magugu, at the latest Fashion in Motion event at the V&A Museum in London. The line-up of stylists included Trevor Sorbie’s Giuseppe Stelitano, Abigail Butler of Strictly X-Tended and special guest Desmond Murray, who worked alongside Jason, session stylist and founder of Jason Hall Hairdressing in Edinburgh, to create a mix of chic braids and ’90s-worthy flicked out ends. Magugu, the critically acclaimed young designer and winner of the LVMH Prize 2022, was invited by the V&A team to present a selection of his work as part of Black History Month. His contemporary takes on classic tailoring and fluid fabrics paired perfectly with the high-shine finish and structured looks.

BOOK IT!

THE ARTISAN

Elevate your cutting skills with a bespoke approach focused on revealing a clients’ individuality and beauty. Robert Masciave teaches Artisan Cutting, an ergonomic method designed to improve the quality and consistency of your work and revolutionise your technique. Perfected by Masciave over 25 years, The Artisan is an haute couture approach that will reveal the artist in you. WHEN 7 November, Leeds VISIT revlonproshop.com

At Christmas it’s more important than ever to get quality sleep, so that you feel refreshed and ready for the day ahead. Morphée is a clever tech-free device that helps you to do just that. It uses a simple three-key system, with no screens or digital interfaces, for you to select your optimal sleep-inducing meditation programme. Choose from 210 themed sessions to aid sleep. Sweet dreams! £79.95; morphee.co.uk

Desmond Murra y and Jason Hall

Abigail Butler

Giuseppe Stelitano

Stars impress at Colour Congress

Giuseppe Stelitano and Jack Howard wowed with a mix of holographic hued techniques and shimmering highlights at the 2022 L’Oréal Colour Congress in east London. More than 100 L’Oréal Colour Specialists from the UK and Ireland enjoyed fresh ideas on techniques, education and an insider’s view of the new-look INOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. Beyond colour, sessions included a video masterclass for social media content from Vivienne Johns while Hayley Jepson – known as the Resilient Hairdresser – shared the science of burnout.

KEUNE UPS AWARDS GAME

Keune’s global Hairstylist Awards is set to take things up a notch following a successful debut last year. After more than 1,000 submissions from more than 50 countries in its inaugural year, the 2022/2023 contest is set to be fierce.

There are four categories to enter – Color Explosion, Barber Boss, Unleashed Creativity and Signature Style – and anyone using Keune products to create their competition look can enter. Regional winners will battle on a global stage, before the final global victors are crowned. Prizes include €1,000 (£870)-worth of Keune products, a meet and greet with chief executive Eelco Keune, a masterclass at the Dutch Keune HQ, and more.

Entries close 29 November; visit keunehairstylistawards.com

Everybody’s talking about…

The Coterie

What does the future of the hairdressing industry look like? After so many tectonic shifts in the past few years, there’s certainly no single answer anymore – but isn’t that more exciting? It’s a topic we’re investigating at our last Coterie event of 2022, entitled Future Forces: A New Era in Hairdressing, sponsored by JOICO. Join us on Monday 21 November for an evening of discussion at The Loading Bay in Shoreditch, London, as we look at recent change and evolution through a wide lens from the perspectives of industry innovators Georgia Freeman, Jack Mead, Jay Birmingham, Karrie Fitzmaurice, Ky Wilson, Lewis Stanford, Lydia Wolfe and Mike O’Gorman. We’ll be touching on future ways of working, the power of tech, inspiration, changes in consumption, values and expectations, and more. Tickets are £15, available now at creativeheadmag.com/store

CATCH-UP

Zoë Irwin has been revealed as the new editorial colour and trend ambassador for Matrix.

Grooming label STMNT has made a €20,000 (£17,400) donation to Movember, together with the Fritz Henkel Foundation.

Avlon is donating a proportion of its profits to the Afro Caribbean Leukaemia Trust (ACLT) for Black History Month.

Green Salon Collective removed a staggering 72kg of litter from London and Belfast during its annual Trashy Hairdressers Day.

Use Fresha? Salons can now earn Fresha credits when they recommend a friend to the subscription-free platform, as part of its new referral programme.

Giuseppe Stelitano

Clockwise from top left: Georgia Freeman, Lydia Wolfe and Jack Mead, Ky Wilson, Jay Birmingham

This image: hair by Jack Howard

Dutch fashion brand Stieglitz has collaborated with Keune on a limited-edition gift box to create a collection of items that empower clients to feel great. The prints on the scarf are inspired by Stieglitz’s A/W22 collection.

RRP £54.50 keune.com

No strings (or cords) attached with the Original Cordless Iron, the newest addition to CLOUD NINE’s styling tool range.

RRP £249

cloudninehair.com howhighbrands.co.uk

The new cordless reVITE Clippers from Andis come in black and grey, with a stainless-steel blade design that combines the functionality of a removable blade and adjustable blade. That means quick and easy changes between a taper blade and fade blade – neat!

RRP £189 andis.com

Natural hair supplementGLOWWA Hair Food helpssupport healthy hair growth fromthe inside out, helping to reduceshedding, balance scalp hydrationand oil, along with recovery afterpost-partum, Covid, menopause,or stress-related hair loss. From £34.99 for 60 capsules glowwa.com

Peach Blush and Cool Espresso join the Color Fresh Mask collection from Wella Professionals, perfect for a brilliant add-on treatment or a great retail extra to keep shades popping at home.

RRP £15.75 each uk.wella.professionalstore.com

It only takes three minutes to fall in love with the new Maria Nila Booster Masques, which have 10-times the main active ingredients of the original masques for a boosted, more intensive result, and a low pH for faster action. There are six popular care ranges to choose from, including Sheer Silver and Head & Hair Heal.

RRP £9 each marianila.co.uk

R+Co Ring Tone Ultra De ning Gel Crème uses nourishing agave nectar extract to help block humidity, while chia seed, prickly pear oil and vitamins B and K help to retain moisture, fortify weaker shafts and improve elasticity to elongate curls.

RRP £25 xpertprofessional.co.uk

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES

Santa’s got nothing on the La Biosthétique Christmas gift sets, all packaged in a gift box with a branded cotton bag. We think the For Cold Days set is a perfect retail spinner…

RRP £45 labiosthetique.co.uk

Deliver better curls than ever with the Steampod 4 from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The thinner, rounder upper arm takes de nition to the next level, while the curl locking guide gently heats up to 100˚C for a longer-lasting, more versatile curl.

RRP £299 lorealpartnershop.com/uk

Look over your shoulder for Pulp Riot’s new Shadow collection – withBloodshot Red, Dark Water Blue, Mystic Fog Purple and Slither Green –to nail a perfect alternative to the neon colour trend.

In-salon service lorealpartnershop.com/uk

COLOUR

IN ASSOCIATION WITH NEW FOR YOU IN 2023

WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS A BOUNTY OF BRAND-NEW COURSES FOR YOU TO TRY! HERE ARE THREE THAT HAVE CAUGHT OUR EYE…

CURL CRAFT: a one-day course looking at the specialist techniques to colour, cut and style curly, coily and textured hair.

FREELANCE FOCUS: a three-day course on how to solve any colour scenario, specifically aimed at the freelance hairdresser. Achieve brilliant, perfected results in little to no time, including no skin test colour options to widen your client potential.

INTRODUCTION TO TRICHOLOGY: a one-day advanced course to gain a deeper understanding of the scalp and hair, its foundations, functions and structure through the eyes of a trichologist. Learn about the function of the scalp and its relation to our hair’s growth.

For more information, keep your eyes peeled for the 2023 Wella Education Book, available from January

“When it’s so busy at Christmas you want to make it seem like you’re saving your client time and money – by helping them refresh their toner at home – while what you’re really doing is selling retail products. Rather than just going ahead and using the Color Fresh Masks at the backwash, I say ‘let me teach you how to use this mask. I’ll use it today, show you how, and then you take it home.’ Offering them a lesson rather than a product gives them that added value that buying from an online retailer simply can’t match.

“I try and teach them that it isn’t a toner; it is a pigmented conditioner. But the benefit is that it has an amazing mask-like quality, it’s feeding hair moisture, so hair is going to be super-shiny, it’s going to be so perfected for any event they go to. You’re identifying the problem first, by saying ‘yes, all colours do fade even when you’re using colour-saving shampoo. However, take this because you can top it up at home without me, for all of your Christmas plans.’”

PRO HAIRDRESSER IS THIS SEASON

ABOUT A KEY CHALLENGE AND

COBELLA,

DIRECTOR OF COBELLA LONDON (@JORDANNACOBELLA),

ENCOURAGING

RETAIL

SHELFIE

The two new Color Fresh Mask shades have been a godsend for both me and my clientele! Cool Espresso and Peach Blush have lled a big gap in my retail offering. We offer Color Fresh Masks as an add-on salon service

colour visits, as well as including it in our care packages for our clients to keep their hair

salon-fresh, every day.”

FERGAL DOYLE, FERGAL DOYLE HAIR

FORMULA FOR SUCCESS

ANTONELLA PASTORE, WELLA PASSIONISTA (@NELLAHAIRARTISTRY)

My obsession with Color Fresh Masks continues! A dose of colour and incredible hydration, what more could you ask for? For this look I used the new Peach Blush shade, ideal for clients who have a naturally light base and no colour, or pre-lightened clients who may be scared to steer away from their usual hue. It gives a wearable, soft peach tone, amazing for adding a little warmth to bring out your client’s eye colour.”

SPACES,

PLACES

LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK

STREET CREATIVE STUDIO, MANCHESTER

@WHITWORTHSTREETCREATIVESTUDIO

Having already rebooted from HiveMCR to Whitworth Street Creative Studio post-lockdown, the salon has now enjoyed a major glow-up, moving from its rst location to a new, larger plot near Sackville Gardens. The light and airy space in Regency House is a haven for the busy bees of Manchester and is a new home for the city’s talented freelance creatives. Exposed brickwork and traditional features are softened by the sheer amount of light and greenery in the space. The name and aesthetic were inspired by the lower west side of New York City. The space is loft style: high ceilings, cast iron, and huge windows that let light ood in, surrounded by some of the most incredible buildings Manchester has to offer. You can’t ignore the plants, which include a Bird of Paradise called ‘Big Boy’; nor the 19ft long, live-edge pippy oak console. “I certainly feel that it brings a calm to the space that we didn’t have in the old salon; I wanted lots of calming features,” says founder Patrick Marrow. “The green chairs and wooden worktops create an urban oasis, making it a really easy place to spend prolonged amounts of time in.”

JOSH WOOD AT CLARIDGE’S, LONDON

@JOSHWOOD

The colour maestro is part of the new Claridge’s Spa, with an in-room service also available. Chairs can also be hired by session stylists to use.

THE HOUSE OF KEUNE BY BLOOM

@THEHOUSEOFKEUNEBYBLOOM

In the revamped Post Building in Central London sits the stunning new flagship salon and academy from Dutch brand Keune, with Andrew Barton joining as creative ambassador.

THE FACESTHE FACES

THE PEOPLE IN ACTION

What would Marney Lian

If the salon you work in faced closure, would you jump in and save it? That’s the dilemma Marney Lian

I’D BEEN THINKING about launching my own business when I found out the salon I worked at was closing. It was right in the middle of the pandemic and I’d only briefly looked into starting something new. I wasn’t planning anything so soon, or in such unsettling circumstances. When the opportunity came up to take over the reins, it was a nowor-never moment. Everyone around me was warning me against it but I never had a doubt. In fact, looking back, I don’t think I even stopped for a second to think yes or no. Either way, if I didn’t go for it I’d be out of work – no job to go to and no-one was recruiting because of Covid. I knew I had to make it work but due to the situation I didn’t know when – or even if – we would re-open our doors.

One thing I’ve learnt is that you need the right people around you. Luckily, I found an amazing business partner at Gritt London. I went to my friend Charles and said: “I need someone to help me run the business while I focus on the shop floor.” Thankfully, he saw it as a golden opportunity too and he’s been my support ever since, taking care of the bigger vision and getting us where we need to go. He focuses on the admin and finances, which means I get to work how I want without having that worry. It’s been a whirlwind and there’s still so much to do.

I look at the dynamics of a salon differently now. Becoming ‘the boss’ is a big learning curve but you have to believe in people and build a strong team. I struggled to ask for help at first, but I’m getting better at that. Would I do the same thing again? Absolutely!

@gritt_london

WHAT MADE ME

my confidence in tatters and my future unknown. Things finally started to improve when I investigated my diet and I was so impressed with the way it helped me that I decided to make this my path. I have spent years studying how a nutrient-rich diet and the right supplementation, combined with a balanced lifestyle, can transform hair growth, texture, and condition.

Simone Thomas Salon in Dorset allows me to create a friendly and welcoming haven where individuals can receive professional advice and expertly sourced hair loss solutions. Its amazing to see my clients regaining confidence and seeing the results of my services. My mission is to ensure others don’t have to struggle alone and to help fight the stigma that still surrounds hair loss and mental health.

I GET UP AT… 5:15AM. Not by choice you understand, but because my husband can’t get ready with the light off.

MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… Beautifully bright dresses that I get covered in hair. Hence the black out t in the pic, naturally!

MY JOB ENTAILS… Running a full column, managing and nurturing my Teresa Weller Hair Art salon and team, developing my The Bridal Hair Artists brand, and plotting world domination.

I GOT HERE BY… Passion, drive, creativity, my love for people and my determination to make things happen.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… My young, all-female team. I treat them like family and continually look for ways to ensure their wellbeing in the salon.

MY DAY CONSISTS OF… Creativity, education, exceptional hair and incredible company.

MY DAILY FUEL IS… Coffee and wanting to make a difference!

MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… Italian or Spanish tunes, anything that makes me feel like I'm on holiday sipping a Piña Colada.

I’M ALWAYS PLANNING… My escape route, or my next shoot.

WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Remember to breathe. I’ve implemented in-salon yoga classes for me and the team to make sure we all move, hydrate, stretch and reassess. A strong body and mind are essential in our industry.

WHEN I GET STUCK I… Call my daughter Stefanie, who’s also our salon front of house and concierge.

THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Saying yes to absolutely everything!

THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE MOST FROM… Was not believing in myself sooner. While talent is essential to career progression, self-belief makes the perfect partner.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… Was my parents telling me not to choose a career in the hairdressing industry.

MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… The amount of Insta followers I’d like to have!

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Coral lipstick and rosé. I love both in equal measure.

I DECOMPRESS BY… Being creative in different ways. Our in-salon art classes and book club are the perfect tonic to unwind. That and a large glass of rosé.

AFTER WORK I… Love to be at home, cook tonnes of tapas, and chill with my daughter, hubby and pretty pooch, Cei Cei.

DAY OF WORK/LIFE BALANCE FOR TERESA WELLER, OWNER OF TERESA WELLER HAIR ART AND THE BRIDAL HAIR ARTISTS

‘MINI BUDGET’ MEASURES REVERSED BY CHANCELLOR

THE GOVERNMENT is scrapping “almost all” of the tax measures previously announced in its ‘mini budget’ by former Chancellor of the Exchequer, Kwasi Kwarteng.

The new Chancellor, Jeremy Hunt, also announced that the basic rate of income tax will remain at 20p indefinitely –instead of being reduced to 19p.

Plans to stop corporation tax from rising next April have already been scrapped in a further U-turn. The corporation tax rate, which is the tax companies pay on their profits, will go up from 19 per cent to 25 per cent in April 2023.

The tax cut that survives is National Insurance (NI), with taxpayers still paying less NI from 6 November, as a 1.25 percentage point cut is still to take place.

Responding to the Chancellor’s statement, NHBF chief executive Richard Lambert said: “What we need more than anything is for the government to reestablish economic stability and put in place realistic policies that will enable businesses to plan for the future and maintain consumers’ confidence in the high street.”

NHBF QUARTERLY SURVEYS UNCOVER A HAIR AND BEAUTY SURVIVAL STORY

The NHBF has collated two years’ worth of State of the Industry surveys to clarify the experience of business owners since August 2020, the point at which the industry body decided to move from annual to quarterly surveys. The studies, which aimed to highlight the sector’s recovery after the rst Covid lockdown, show how businesses experienced a rollercoaster of more than 240 days of lockdown closure in 2020 and 2021, followed by continuing restrictions into 2022 across the nations and regions of the UK.

After an initial recovery in September 2021, the scare of the Omicron variant had a negative impact upon the vital Christmas period, meaning many salons missed out on the traditional retails and service boost. However, by July 2022 the future was looking brighter, with most salons at last returning to previous levels of business activity and con dence. The full two-year report, summary infographic and video are available at nhbf.co.uk

Majority of businesses increase prices

MORE THAN HALF (51 per cent) of businesses raised their prices in the past three months, the latest State of industry survey by the NHBF has revealed, supporting the general trend of increasing prices. While this finding is down from the 62 per cent of businesses in July, a further 65 per cent (up from 51 per cent in July) have said that they plan to do so in the next three months.

The biggest rise in cost for businesses is in energy, with 77 per cent paying more for energy than they were six months ago. For half of the businesses, energy costs have increased by 40 per cent or more.

Richard Lambert, chief executive of the NHBF, said: “Many hair and beauty businesses are teetering on the edge of survival. A range of indicators, including business activity, rising prices, rising debt, reliance on government support, uncertainty around survival and a dip in growth aspirations all signal a more negative outlook than before the summer.”

or visit nhbf.co.uk

CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON

Investing in education for you and your team is one of the best ways to get ahead. Here are some of Phorest Salon Software’s top tips for your 2023 salon education plan.

Diversity and inclusion. Invest in educational resources that make your salon a more accepting, inclusive, and safe space. Training comes in many different forms, including Afro hairstyling courses, training days for applying products to scarred or textured skin, courses on the importance of using gender-free and LGBTQ+ friendly language in the salon.

Sustainability. Now more than ever, consumers are aware of how their spending impacts the environment, and want to spend their money in establishments that advocate for positive change. Get your team onboard by providing training on more ecofriendly ways to work in your salon and how to reduce your salon’s carbon footprint.

Revenue generation. This could be anything from opening an online store to an in-salon loyalty programme. Even something as simple keeping the team fully trained on all the revenue-generating features that your salon software offers is a great way of increasing takings.

Marketing. Invest in some marketing training to improve your pro tability. Focus on email and SMS to keep existing clients engaged, or try targeted digital marketing to entice new clients.

Salon technology. It’s important to invest in reliable salon software and train your team on how to use it. By doing so, not only will you see more clients come through your doors, you will also empower your staff to be more autonomous and con dent.

Avril Kealy is a global SEO and content writer at Phorest Salon Software.

out more at phorest.com

association with Phorest Salon Software and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel*

IS

MAKING THE MOST of the festive period means much more than just dragging out last year’s tinsel. It comes but once a year and is a huge opportunity for salons and barber shops, so let’s make the most of it.

THINK VISUALLY

Make your shop window as eye-catching as possible to boost footfall and bring new passing trade into the salon. Try a decorative theme or place the focus on your Christmas merchandise. Extend the theme inside, too. Everyone loves the colour and sparkle of festive decorations – give your clients that special Christmas glow as they walk through your door. Be sure to showcase the salon update on social media too!

FESTIVE EVENTS

Plan a Christmas client evening for late November or early December. Invite the local community to browse and purchase products while sipping on bubbly or seasonal drinks. You can include makeover consultations,

MAKE CHRISTMAS

CRACKER

nails, styling tips, hair-ups – everything to prepare for that Christmas night out or party. It gives you an opportunity to highlight the services you have on offer over Christmas so that clients know well in advance. If you do have any last-minute appointments, be sure to advertise these on social media to fill them.

VOUCHER VALUE

Gift cards are a must all year round, but Christmas always sees a massive spike in gift card sales. Encourage your staff to mention gift cards while clients are in the chair, promote them in-salon with an eye-catching display, and spread the word via your website, social media and email marketing.

TEAM FOCUS

Make things fun for your staff too! Ensure you schedule at least one Christmas party for everyone to attend and involve everyone in your Christmas plans. Have a Christmas brainstorm and ask everyone for their ideas on making the most of the festive season.

A GIFT FROM THE NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. Member benefits include:

• Helpline for everyday business support

• Award-winning magazine

• Ready-made employment contracts

• Exclusive members podcast, and much more

For more information about how the NHBF can support you and your team visit nhbf.co.uk

NOW THAT YOU’VE got your ‘green’ systems in place, demonstrating your business’s sustainability credentials can be enhanced by undergoing more formal accreditation.

FOR HELP AND ADVICE…

Southampton University Business School’s website, ecohairandbeauty.com, is a fantastic resource of information for salon owners and hairdressers wanting to become more sustainable.

Green Salon Collective is a UK and Ireland recycling service for hair, old colour tubes, foils, plastic, paper, card, colour and bleach. Check out its website for webinars, videos and lots of helpful information.

Alternatively, consult with Karine Jackson, the awardwinning salon owner and expert on sustainable salons. Reach her on 07957 655434 or email karine@karinejackson.co.uk

FOR ACCREDITATION…

Southampton University Business School offers both a Sustainable Stylist and Sustainable Salon certificate. More details at ecohairandbeauty.com Green Salon Collective accreditation has versions for both salons and freelancers. Check out greensaloncollective.com/ pages/accreditation

The Davines Sustainable Salon Program is open to all salons. Discover more at sustainablesalon.it Carbon Neutral businesses can achieve accreditation through Carbon Footprint Limited Carbon Neutral Certification (carbonfootprint.com) and Carbon Trust Carbon Neutral Certfication (carbontrust.com)

One Planet Living is a sustainability framework for organisations including businesses. You’ll find all the details at bioregional.com/one-planet-living B-Corp is accreditation for businesses that want to balance purpose and profit, and that consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community and the environment. It also offers the free B Impact assessment tool, to help point you in the right direction. Check out bcorporation.uk

KNOW HOW GREEN YOUR BUSINESS IS SHOUT TO THE TOP

their last episode of the series, Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes Anne Veck and Keith Mellen, share sources of formal accreditation to underpin

ANNE

KEITH’S

COLOUR AND CHEMICAL SERVICES

It doesn't matter if the goal is rainbow brights or a subtle tonal shift, colourists know that hair needs to be in top condition for optimal colour results. OLAPLEX is your support system for any colour or chemical services you recommend. Offer clients a Repair and Protect Treatment as an add-on to any colour or chemical work they’re booking in for. OLAPLEX can be added into any chemical service, including colour, highlights, balayage, perms, and straightening services, to help protect and repair the hair.

The pairing of salon-exclusives No.1 Bond Multiplier and No.2 Bond Perfector is the professional secret weapon to create stronger, healthier hair. Use together to create hair that is in noticeably better condition after the service than before. Building this professional OLAPLEX service into your menu is a win-win, both for your clients' condition and your bottom line.

The result? No matter what service you’re undertaking, the bond-building duo leaves hair looking stronger, healthier, and shinier. Clients can then keep their haircare journey continuing at home with retail versions of the iconic No.3 Hair Perfector.

STANDALONE SERVICES

OLAPLEX has come a long way since it arrived on the scene in an innocuous white bottle. The wide variety of products available now means you can cater for all hair needs that a client might come to you with.

The two-step treatment of No.1 Bond Multiplier and No.2 Bond Perfector doesn’t need to be reserved for chemical services – it also makes an ideal standalone treatment to help repair damage and leave hair looking as good as new.

For clients with chronically thirsty hair, offer the OLAPLEX 4-in-1 Moisture Treatment. This luxurious moisturising treatment delivers intense hydration to help repair dry and damaged hair, while also adding shine, body and softness. It combines professional-strength ceramides, oils and 11 vital amino acids to deliver a transformative experience that reinforces the quality of professional treatments. It’s also a brilliant booster for the standalone treatment.

Hair can be resuscitated with the Repair Treatment, offering restorative bond-building support resulting in stronger, healthier and shinier lengths.

Finally, the Deep Clarifying Treatment is a professional, high-potency service to help purify and detox the hair and scalp for hair with more shine, more bounce and body.

Each of these services can be supplemented with additional retail options for clients to continue care at home, while also adding to your bottom line. Boosted income and better caredfor hair? That’s the OLAPLEX difference –a brand that you and your clients can trust.

OLAPLEX made its name with game-changing bond technology, and it continues to innovate when it comes to solutions for professional hairdressers. The structure of the hair shaft is key to long-term hair health, but there are often unexpected elements to contend with… Unwanted deposits at the cortex level of hair can build up in daily life, including product buildup, oil, hard water minerals, discolouring iron and copper – even your clients’ existing routines, and pollutants from the air can affect it. All these unstable elements can disrupt your plans for a client’s hair by creating uneven colour results and destabilising the hair’s structure.

The OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment is a high-potency professional product that removes these unwanted deposits effortlessly. A simple pre-wash treatment helps you to perfectly prep hair for whatever you have planned. Colour appears more vibrant and evenly placed when applied after the Chelating Treatment, making it a must-have for colourists. Hair is noticeably more manageable for curls and longer lengths too, with boosted condition and finish. The nonstripping formula is boosted with kakadu plum extract – rich in vitamin C – to help preserve essential proteins and moisture within the hair. Clients will undoubtedly notice the results from this deep-clean treatment. They can continue that clarity at home, with No.4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo, and the Chelating Treatment recommended once a week to flush out all the unwanted elements for healthier, perfected hair.

DISCOVER THE OLAPLEX BROAD SPECTRUM CHELATING TREATMENT, AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR: ASTON & FINCHER, CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY, SALLY BEAUTY, SALON CONCEPT, SALON PROMOTIONS, SALONS DIRECT, AND XPERT PROFESSIONAL, OR BUY ONLINE AT UK.OLAPLEX.COM

THE NEW OLAPLEX CHELATING TREATMENT IS THE ULTIMATE RESET BUTTON, GIVING YOU A CLEAN SLATE OF HAIR TO WORK WITH

creativeheadmag.com

Drawing inspiration from a mutual love for Parisian fashion, ‘Fille de la Ville’ from Francesco Group’s Heather Shaw, and freelance hairdresser Andi Pearce, combines vivid colour and contrasting textures to reflect current trends

Learn new skills, make more money, and realise your potential with our last SELF/STYLED Sunday of 2022. Join us on 27 November for a day themed around The Art

Connection

Sarah Keane has created a colour niche where many would fear to tread: scalp bleaching. She talks us through her ice-cool attitude to keeping blondes bright

Sally and Jamie Brooks are internationally known for their impeccable artistry and vision. They discuss the evolution of Brooks & Brooks after more than two decades in business, as they look to the future

EVERYONE’S INVITED!

ANYTHING AND EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE – THE WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2022 FINAL SHOWCASED THE POSSIBILITIES AND POTENTIAL OF TAKING YOUR COLOUR CAREER TO THE NEXT LEVEL…

A new venue… new experience spaces… a new haircut for the iconic Patrick Cameron! The Wella TrendVision Award 2022 Final, based at the incredible Magazine London on the banks of the Thames, was bigger and better than ever! It was the perfect celebration of colour and its infinite possibilities, especially with the Wella Professionals colour portfolio – for what it can do for your clients, and what it can do for elevating your career. This was a night bursting with energy, excitement, and jaw-dropping hair!

Hosted by Wella legend Patrick Cameron and TV and radio favourite Denise Van Outen, the Final welcomed more than 700 guests to celebrate 61 brilliant finalists, gathered from salons, colleges and independent businesses across the UK and Ireland. The new venue reflected the buzz and excitement around this year’s competition, with immersive branded experiences from Koleston Perfect (360-degree selfies!) and Shinefinity (an infinity mirror room to capture sparkly shine for days!). Hundreds more watched the livestream to see all the artistic action from the shortlisted talents, across craft and colour categories, alongside the college-focused XPOSURE contest, brilliantly hosted by Elspeth Pierce. And the catwalk showcases from big name artists and creative teams? Wella, you spoil us! All that was before we started rocking out to ‘90s legend Sonique at the after party!

The competition had been quite the journey, beginning back in April with an online photographic entry. The mission was to celebrate hair that’s inspirational, fashionable and consumer-friendly… all while illustrating exceptional hairdressing skills and showcasing the exceptional potential of the Wella Professionals colour portfolio.

By the end of the journey, the overwhelming emotion beyond the joy and the tears of happiness and the disbelief of victory was the sense of opportunity that the Wella TrendVision Award offers to every colourist – the chance to launch their career into the stratosphere. See the shows, salivate over ALL the creativity, and know that next year it could be you on that stage. What have you got to lose?

Kele Le Roc

Denise Van Outen and Patrick Cameron

THE CARNIVAL OF COLOUR BY ROBERT EATON AND THE RUSSELL EATON CREATIVE TEAM

The Wella Professionals technical director for the UK & Ireland, Robert Eaton, and the Russell Eaton Creative Team pushed Koleston Perfect and Shinefinity to the max! Reflective metallic tones were teamed with dazzling sequins and glitter, alongside accessories galore and textured, colourful braids. A real showstopper!

VIPER BY HOB ACADEMY

Inspired by snakes and their intricately patterned skin, Viper delivered a sharply styled showcase of precision, with bold, unapologetic colour and signature looks that embraced Koleston Perfect and Shinefinity. Metallic silver, frosted lilac crops and vinyl ebony bobs meshed with huge copper textured lengths turned up to 11. A presentation with real bite.

KALEIDOSCOPE BY THE WELLA COLLABORATION TEAM

Wella selected a dream team of artists to collaborate on a mesmeric presentation that offered something for everyone and used the hero ranges from Wella Professionals –Color Fresh Create, Color Touch, Koleston Perfect, Illumina, Blondor and Shinefinity. The team – featuring Stil, Charlie Taylor, House of Colour, Medusa, James Earnshaw, Karbon Kyd, Sarah Mason Professional and Cobella – included everything from Gatsby-infused ‘80s glam alongside protest chic to pastel curled clouds and striped jewel-toned lengths. All this was delivered alongside an amazing live performance from double Mobo winner Kele Le Roc.

JUST TO WHET YOUR APPETITE. NOW MEET THE WINNERS OF WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2022 FINAL…

CREATE THE FUTURE

IF YOU CAN DREAM OF A LIFE LESS ORDINARY THEN YOU CAN CREATE IT. LIVE LIFE IN FULL COLOUR BY JOINING THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS MASTER COLOUR PROGRAMME

The Wella Professionals Master Colour Programme is the brand’s iconic course for elite-level colourists, giving you the highest accreditation and unrivalled confidence to achieve any look you can imagine.

This is not an ordinary course, for ordinary colourists. This is for the brave, the daring, the ones who wish to push themselves and become THE colour expert in their area. It is a unique experience that can transform your career. From day one you can expect to

learn new things about hair colour; each step of the programme is a journey on a path to understand colour on a deeper level.

That journey doesn’t end with the course’s conclusion either. Completing the programme gives you a ticket into the Master Colour Expert Alumni community, an exclusive inner circle of toptier colourists who enjoy insider access, hearing about the latest launches, receiving exclusive tips and tricks from the world’s best educators and colourists.

PERPETUAL MOTION

SAM MCKNIGHT HAS MORE THAN LIVED UP TO HIS DOUBLE MOST WANTED LEGEND STATUS ACROSS A 40-PLUS YEAR CAREER, AND NOW HE ADDS TV STAR TO HIS PORTFOLIO. AMANDA NOTTAGE SAT DOWN WITH THE SESSION SUPREMO AT HIS WEST LONDON STUDIO TO TALK ABOUT HOW HIS WORK HAS TAKEN SURPRISING NEW TURNS…

HOLDING A MUG of strong Yorkshire Tea and with glasses swinging around his neck on a twisted cable, the hairdressing legend that is Sam McKnight makes a rather more humble impression on his studio sofa than you might expect. The space is tucked away between Ladbroke Grove and Kensal Green in a vintage warehouse that’s now an achingly cool spot for MacBook-toting co-workers and brands on the rise (think 16Arlington, Baby Mori). Busy alongside him as ever is Valerie Benavides, one of his longtime trusted first assistants (Eamonn Hughes holds that other title), as well as a couple of key staff from his hair brand, Hair by Sam McKnight.

That evening, episode three of The Big Blow Out will be broadcast on E4 and trying to worm any spoilers or big reveals out of him is an impossible task (“I’m telling you nothing!”). The reality show, nearing its grand finale by the time you read this, pits 11 professional hairdressers against each other across a mix of editorial, salon and session tasks, ending each episode with a Masterpiece challenge of avant-garde/fantasy concoctions. It sees Sam in a surprising new role of reality TV judge, alongside fellow Most Wanted Award winner, Lisa Farrall. It was undoubtedly something of a risk; could the man behind some of the coolest hair looks of the past four decades morph into the new Paul Hollywood? But taking risks is part of a new life strategy for McKnight: do new.

An avowed home baker (and impressive amateur gardener – a scroll through his Instagram is littered with as many dahlias as supermodels), Sam was dough in the hands of the show producers when they uttered the magic words “Bake Off”, which they had also worked on. “I’d been speaking to them and I had to be really sure that it wasn’t going to be a kind of derogatory, mickey-taking sort of show,” he recalls. “When they mentioned The Great British Bake Off, The Great British Sewing Bee, The Great Pottery Throw Down, they had me! They’re not interested in making anyone look bad, it’s a celebration. Once I had met everyone and I was sure that it wasn’t going to be like hair shows of the past, it was a no-brainer really.”

While the producers might not want it to be nasty, they do want their judges to be frank, and Sam and Lisa have settled into an almost good cop, bad cop groove. “They told us to be brutally honest, because the public can see through it if you’re not being honest. That’s good because that’s kind of how I am anyway,” he says.

“My go-to is humour, to temper the honesty. You can’t say something is amazing if it’s not, but you also don’t want to say something’s terrible. There must be a positive. From the beginning I told the producers I couldn’t be some character you want me to be, I can only do it if I can be myself.”

But from Chanel to reality telly – why? “I hope it does the same for hairdressing as it’s done for baking, sewing and pottery. Shining a light is one positive thing, but I think it could do much more. And hopefully it’ll attract a whole generation of young kids into the industry when they see what can be achieved.”

On a wider front, the decision to embrace the small screen illustrates his new approach to work. “Since the lockdown I’ve been really up for trying new things,” he explains. “At the beginning, I wondered if I was going to seem like some horrible, grumpy old man. I had a few pep

This page, clockwise from top left: Hair by Sam McKnight, published 2016; Tilda Swinton for Vogue Italia February 2003, image by Colin McDean; Kate Moss for Vogue September 2000, image by Nick Knight; Karlie Kloss for Vogue November 2015, image by Patrick Demarchelier; styling the designer for Vivienne Westwood A/W17 show; Sam in 1992 with Linda Evangelista and Jesse the chimp, image by Lascaro Depata.

This page, from top: Sam with fellow judge Lisa Farrall for The Big Blow Out, 2022; NFT of Naomi Campbell by Laura Lane; Sam with his third Hair Icon award in 2019.

talks and the producers were like: ‘This is how to get your point across without being grumpy!’”

Indeed, the lockdowns had a marked effect on a session stylist who was in perpetual motion. “For the first time in 40 years I wasn’t travelling – and I absolutely loved it,” he grins. “It was a revelation. If it hadn’t been for lockdown, I probably would never have stopped. It wasn’t that it was bad before, it was just the lockdown slowed me down, made me look at myself and at what I was doing.” And the conclusion he drew? “I’ve pretty much been doing the same thing, right?” he laughs, before clarifying. “In different ways of course, and it hadn’t been a bad thing. But then having done my book and the Somerset House exhibition six years ago, I had already started thinking about doing new things. Then we launched our initial Hair by Sam McKnight products, and you get into the whole travel-shows-shoots-studio thing again and it takes a backseat. The lockdown made me redress the balance.”

And there have been plenty of ‘next things’. His 2016 book, Hair by Sam McKnight, has recently enjoyed a second print run ahead of a project he’s working on for 2023 (“I can’t tell you anything yet!” he teases), and to coincide with that, he joined the world of NFTs [a kind of unique digital artwork], seeing three of his hair looks (Gigi! Naomi! Kate!) reimagined by artist Laura Lane with a surreal, ’60s edge. Those buying one of the NFTs can access additional benefits and an invitation to an exclusive digital event.

And the capsule collection of four Hair by Sam McKnight styling sprays has now blossomed into a skincareinfluenced haircare line, with more stylers following. It’s not been an easy journey. Having self-funded it all originally, Sam pulled investment together and was set to launch the care line last year, but the manufacturer went bust. It gave him the chance to tweak formulations to ensure they were vegan and cruelty-free, and to find his studio space to help ease the pressure of content creation.

“The lockdowns gave me time to make things happen because I realised that doing both in tandem [the products and all the travelling for work] was never really going to come to the perfect conclusion. We spent six weeks filming the TV show. I wouldn’t have been able to do that If I had been booked on shoots and shows. So I flipped it.”

Spending more time in one place has seen him working regularly with particular actors (he cites Priyanka Chopra and Jodie Comer, whom he describes as “mesmerising”), and his role as contributing editor for Vogue has presented him with some incredible highlights. “I did a cover last year with Malala [Yousafzai, the Pakistani education activist and Nobel Peace Prize laureate], and it was one of those jobs you’re on where you think: ‘Wow. The only reason I’m in this room today with this amazing woman is because I’m a hairdresser,’” he beams. “That’s a huge perk of the job.”

Sat relaxing, surrounded by wigs from his illustrious career of shows and shoots, he ponders how he now makes the decision what to devote his time to. “What I’ve done throughout my entire career is I’ve been good at reinventing myself and moving on. Now, the main criteria for me: is this going to be beneficial? I don’t need to make a name for myself,” he says, shrugging his shoulders. “Is it going to be fun? Is it going to be interesting? Will it benefit the products? Oh, and are the people nice?”

SAM ON SHOWS

“I’ve gone from doing about 16 shows to six. Has it changed backstage post-lockdown? No, it hasn’t really, and I think there was a massive opportunity for change. It’s kind of gone back to how it was. There was one particular show, we had an outrageous amount of models, so there were an outrageous amount of hair and make-up people squashed into the smallest little alleyway you’ve ever seen. It’s so disappointing. Everyone’s come back thinking: ‘We need to get back to normal because we need to make some money’. But over time it will change.”

SAM ON MOSCHINO

“We did headpieces made from children’s inflatable armbands

It was a whole sort of inflatable/inflation concept. We put hair through and cut them into ponytails of different lengths. It was this swinging horse’s tail coming through the armband, really good fun.”

PALETTE OF POSSIBILITIES

WHAT’S YOUR COLOUR VIBE? FROM BOLD BRIGHTS TO SHIMMERING PASTELS, GOLDWELL COLORANCE GLOSS TONES ALLOW YOU TO PAINT YOUR VISION EFFORTLESSLY

Some colourists revel in perfecting a signature look, while for others variety is essential. The beauty of perception and taste means that no two artists will approach a look in exactly the same way. But the one thing that remains constant for top-tier colourists is a product palette that they can rely on.

Goldwell Colorance has been designed to appeal to everyone –the newbies and the masters, the bright-loving and the subtler

types. Its intermixable system gives you incredible variety underpinned with professional quality and performance. And its latest launch broadens colour horizons even further…

New for 2022, Colorance Gloss Tones has expanded the realm of possibility for clients in so many ways. These fast-acting shades take just 10 minutes to impart unbelievable shine and colour to any look, ideal for both colour newbies and chameleon clients.

The new 500ml bottle of Colorance Gloss Tones Clear should be a mainstay in any stylists’ repertoire, whether they’re a colourist or not. It delivers superior shine and touchably soft, healthy-looking lengths in minutes. Use alone for a quick glossing service or mix with other Colorance Gloss Tones to adjust the shade depth.

COLOUR AND CARE

Colorance delivers a double dose of colour and repair in one step. With incredible shine and tone, the ultra-conditioning formula gives damaged hair five times better combability.

LONG-LASTING RESULTS

Colorance lasts for up to 25 washes, and Gloss Tones have proven to last 41 per cent longer compared with a leading competitor brand.

DELIVER INTENSITY

Get vibrant colour results with incredible shine locked in with a wide variety of brown and red shades – ideal for the top A/W22 trends!

BLONDE BENEFITS

From super cool to perfectly natural tones – clients can enjoy shinier, more reliable, multidimensional blonde shades in just 10 minutes.

The ammonia-free liquid colours are available in 16 shades that can be easily mixed for a bespoke finish. They also pair brilliantly with the wider Goldwell colour systems, giving you near unlimited mixing possibilities. Featuring an exclusive IntraLipid Technology built in, Colorance Gloss Tones actually help to repair the structure of strands even as they colour, by regenerating up to 70 per cent of hair’s lost lipids with a unique pH-balanced formula.

“COLORANCE GLOSS TONES ARE IDEAL FOR CLIENTS WHO ARE LOOKING TO ADD A BOOST OF SUPER-SHINY COLOUR. THE CLEAR GLOSS OPTION IS PERFECT FOR CLIENTS WHO ARE MORE COLOUR-SHY, RETAINING THEIR NATURAL COLOUR WHILE INJECTING IT WITH A GLASS-LIKE SHINE AND LEAVING IT BEAUTIFULLY SOFT AND SILKY.”

MARTIN CREAN, SALON OWNER, MODE

PLAY WITH A PALETTE OF TRUE POTENTIAL WITH GOLDWELL COLORANCE GLOSS TONES. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 020 3540 1200, VISIT KAOSALONDIVISION.COM OR GOLDWELL.COM

It’s rare that you can tap into the success and support of a company as established as Keune. The family-owned business was born in Amsterdam in 1922 – celebrating its 100th anniversary earlier this year! In all that time it has stayed true to its roots: providing professional products and support to allow hairdressers to enjoy abundant growth. Keune hits the UK with a bang… and a flagship salon. The House of Keune by Bloom, now open in central London, is a hub from which the brand intends to unfurl its approach to hairdressing in the UK: marrying scientific heritage with a focus on a sustainable future, all while supporting salon owners and staying exclusively loyal to the professional hairdressing industry.

CHANGING SEASONS

Keune offers business consultancy support to all its salons, investing tonnes of time and energy into its partners’ businesses to ensure they feel strengthened by their collaboration. From planning to execution, the Keune salon network enjoys unparalleled assistance.

Upon joining the network, salon owners and managers meet with the Keune team to plan the future. You’ll receive help in designing a personalised growth plan, and the team walks beside you every step of the way to help implement the changes. This planning runs from technical support for staff through to designing a fully immersive experience for guests. Customer service, care, retail... nothing is overlooked. For example, Keune believes in creating a buying environment, akin to a luxury retailer, rather than a selling environment. The client is drawn to retail as a bee is to flowers.

Being able to take a step back and identify what needs to change can be difficult – but the team at Keune are experts at nailing down the key metrics and benchmarks which will see your profits grow.

PROFESSIONAL POTENTIAL

The needs of the professional hairdresser are at the heart of Keune. There is an unswerving loyalty to the profession, and a shared dream to elevate hairdressers without undercutting them. For the brand – and the wider industry – to grow they realise it takes time, and collaboration.

A healthy network of salons, all rooted to the same ideals, is what produces real evolution and demand for services. A partnership with Keune is one of mutual and sustainable progress, and of trust. If you are looking for a brand where you feel seen, heard and fully supported, then Keune is for you.

DO YOU WANT TO BLOOM AND GROW? FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT HOW KEUNE CAN HELP YOUR BUSINESS FLOURISH, VISIT KEUNE.COM

“KEUNE IS COMMITTED TO SUPPORTING THE PROFESSIONAL HAIRDRESSER. WE BELIEVE YOU NEED TO ‘BE HUMBLE, BE BRAVE, AND SHOW CHARACTER TO SUCCEED’. WE ARE HERE FOR EVERY SALON PROFESSIONAL WHO HAS A PASSION FOR SUSTAINABLE GROWTH”

DARREN POTTER, KEUNE UK GENERAL MANAGER

IF YOU DO ONE THING IN 2023…

WE HIT UP SOME OF OUR 2022 MOST WANTED AND IT LIST AWARD WINNERS TO EXTRACT SOME PERTINENT BUSINESS ADVICE FOR THE YEAR AHEAD. PLANNERS AT THE READY…

ANNE VECK AND KEITH MELLEN MOST WANTED SUSTAINABILITY HERO

DANIELLE GARNER, WILDFLOWER

THE IT LIST ENTREPRENEUR AND ONE TO WATCH; MOST WANTED BEST CLIENT EXPERIENCE

“…Introduce daily rituals into your business and appreciate how they can create a better quality of life. It’s not about having it all but about sharing what you do have. Our aim at Wildflower is to bring a more holistic and wellbeing-focused approach to hairdressing, and introducing rituals into our daily roles has been beneficial for all.

“When a client visits, make sure they always feel connected and safe. During the consultation they can choose from a menu of additional service styles. These include silent, minimal or relaxed. A silent treatment means that once the consultation has been completed, no speaking will occur during time in the studio. Minimal is when speaking is limited, and relaxed is when the client guides the conversation. Other rituals include gratitude practices, meditations, cacao ceremonies and Mindful Monday mornings. Our intention is to create a space to provide warmth and togetherness for all.”

“…Use less hot water! Energy bills will continue to be high in 2023 and energy use generates lots of climate-heating CO2, so the win/win is to reduce your energy consumption, and the biggie is hot water! Lower the temperature and use less. Wash your clients’ hair in warm rather than hot water, rinsing in cold (obviously explain and get the okay first!) and turn the tap off when you don’t need it any more. Same when washing up and doing the laundry too. Review everything you do in your salon, or hairdressing work if you aren’t salonbased, and think about how you can reduce the energy you use. Everything from hairdryers to lighting to insulating the salon.”

itit it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it

MOST WANTED BEST NEW SALON

“…Make your space modular, so that furniture can move to create an event space. Opening a salon in 2023 will require you to go above and beyond the aesthetics of a space. Of course they are important, and something that should be high on your list of priorities, but moving forward we know our clients will want more. They want to be part of something. Make them part of YOUR something. Making your space modular doesn’t just work for large spaces like The Heist House.

“Have enough space for six sections? Then you could hold a wellness talk for 30 clients. Only have three sections? Then get 15 clients in and teach them simple hair-ups. Think about what you can offer that creates a community around your space. Client events and workshops are a great way to start with this. Work with local businesses. Work with your team. Create in your space the ability to have the engagement and experience that your clients will expect.”

DEBBIE CURRIE, BILLI CURRIE MOST WANTED BEST SALON TEAM

“…Put as much effort into the team’s experience as you do for your guests’ experience. It’s about communication, honesty, openness and mentoring. We are clear in our vision; our approach is to work like a record label with many artists under the Billi Currie label. Educate your team as much as you can; develop individuals, mentor and guide them to reach their full potential. Try and have a team meeting every morning to set up for the day, talk openly about any errors made the day before – you can learn from everything. Our salon culture is open and honest. We want everyone to give ideas and opinions on the way the salon is run. If the team is part of the decisions, they’re invested in the salon. Have regular team-building days where you can look at your brand and where you want to go, set goals and make it happen!”

LEE NASH-JONES AND ROB WHITE, NASHWHITE

BROOKE EVANS, BE IRONBRIDGE

MOST WANTED BEST LOCAL SALON

“…Make yourself indispensable to your local community. Do this by building relationships with those around you, not just clients but also other local businesses. Our local community is at the heart of everything we do. We’ve had some really tough times, and many smaller local businesses are the ones that have been hit the hardest. Collaborating with those in your local area not only expands your reach but gives you a platform to speak to a wider audience. You can work together and use your voice for good, to better help the area in which you live and work. Be kind and help others to better the community, you never know when you might need their help.”

PETER JOHNSON, ITZI TOWELS & TURBANS

MOST WANTED AWARD FOR INNOVATION

“…Question the simplest tasks, seek out wasteful practices, then make positive change. During my 50 years in hairdressing I have experienced the three-day week, water shortages, power shortages, a few recessions and more recently the pandemic. What’s hitting us right now could be the biggest challenge our businesses have ever faced.

ITZI Towels & Turbans’ sole focus in this storm of ever-rising expenses is on cutting laundry costs to 1p per towel used.

“In the coming year be part of the expanding community of online forums run by hairdressers for hairdressers. Benefit from totally free, unbiased advice plus receive the invaluable moral support of fellow professionals in these testing times.”

RICK ROBERTS

MOST WANTED HAIR TREND

“…Take inspiration from hair artists and enter the Most Wanted Awards, as it could be you next picking up a trophy!

My advice to anyone looking to shoot an award entry? Make the hair big on set, as on camera it will look smaller. Also, shoot on-trend images that represent you and your brand.

“Put yourself in your clients’ or potential clients’ shoes and think ‘what would I like to see’? Salons can make their imagery work harder and smarter, improving their overall brand image by putting their all into it and making sure the team there on the day all understand the concept.”

MARK WOOLLEY, ELECTRIC MOST WANTED BUSINESS THINKER

“…Have clear goals that excite you. The next important step is communicating your vision and goals to your team as they’re the ones that are going to help you achieve them. The real thing that everyone has got to remember is that we’re in unprecedented times, so you’ll inevitably experience ups and downs in running not only a hair salon but any type of business. That being said, it’s how you react to these changes that matters. When things are declining you’ve got to remain as excited, motivated and focused on your goals as you would be when things are thriving. That is how you maintain an agile business.”

STARS OF 2022

THE POWER SOURCE

BACK IN A power surge for the professional, CLOUD NINE is delivering stylers that ensure you never lose a look and never feel restricted in movement or creativity… all while thrilling your client with what you can achieve with the power in your hands.

Fresh in ’22 and just in time for Christmas is the new Original Cordless Iron with fullsized plates. No cables to wrap around seats and stools, no need to plug in to style up a storm, this new innovation from CLOUD NINE is a gamechanger. Whether you’re in the salon, an independent stylist racing from client to client, or a session stylist on location, the Original Cordless Iron gives you styling freedom.

Step into your styling power and be who you want to be, taking charge with its variable temperature control, as the innovative Kinder Styling Technology delivers healthier, shinier, stronger hair. The mineral-infused full-sized floating plates help strengthen hair and seal in that megawatt shine, while that lack of cord

leaves you and your artistry untethered, unrestricted, unleashed. Next level for clients too, the CLOUD NINE Original Cordless Iron is a gift for your retail business this season, putting your guests in charge of their style, whether at home, in the office, on holiday, at a festival… They can take it wherever they go, taming a flyaway, smoothing a kink or topping up a curl. Partnering with curator of cool labels, How High Brands, hair pros have better access than ever to the innovation and excellence of the CLOUD NINE everexpanding line-up. What’s going to recharge your styling power?

TAKE CHARGE WITH THE CLOUD NINE ORIGINAL CORDLESS IRON, AVAILABLE DIRECT AT CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM, OR CONTACT A CLOUD NINE REPRESENTATIVE AT HOW HIGH BRANDS FOR MORE INFORMATION ON 01332 342 475 OR VISIT HOWHIGHBRANDS.CO.UK

STARS OF 2022

THE ARTISANS

THESE COOL MATTE black bottles, tubes and tubs spotted on set and in-salon are precisely what are needed by hairdressers who want a little bit more. The relaunch of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Session Label line-up is laser-focused on helping you #craftthedifference.

The 12 high-performance professional stylers are inspired by the demands of session stylists – who need to be ready for anything, to have the agility to deliver a look with impact for the job at hand – and the range gives incredible results in the salon, too. With Session Label, it’s all about the details: crafting shape, enhancing texture, styling that might look effortless but has the character and personality that perfectly suits the wearer… delivered by you.

Session Label reflects how real hairdressers use products in salons and on set every single day. It’s about keeping them lightweight (you’ll find micro-dust particles in The Powder), versatile (berry wax and tapioca starch make The Paste eminently remouldable) and innovative (fastevaporating nebular droplets in The Strong and The Flexible hairsprays), always geared to help you create the art to best reflect your vision. Whether an undone shag or a precise bob, Session Label delivers the difference.

WANT TO #CRAFTTHEDIFFERENCE? FIND OUT MORE ABOUT SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL SESSION LABEL AT SCHWARZKOPFPRO.COM/ SESSIONLABEL

STARS OF 2022

THE SUPERSTAR

POWER IS IN your hands with the Futaria, the latest launch from Electric Head Jog and available through Hair Tools. This is a reimagining of a classic to create an innovative hairdryer that meets the demands of busy hairstylists – and exacting clients. It combines all the core characteristics of the celebrated British brand: quality, durability and high performance, paired with the latest in technological innovation for its best-ever dryer, a superstar for right now.

You can power through your column with a super-powerful 104,000 RPM motor without

overwhelming noise – less than 80dB. All this cutting-edge tech has been packed into a super-light, chic frame that won’t weigh you down. Attachments come included too: you can choose between two nozzle widths and a diffuser, so you’re ready for any occasion.

The practical elements are all ticked off –there’s a double filter to make sure it has longterm usability while still being easy to clean; three speed settings; three temperature settings to suit all hair types; and the allimportant cold shot to seal in the finished look. You can manoeuvre with ease too, thanks to a three-metre-long cable that has you feeling almost unplugged!

BLAST YOUR WAY INTO 2023 WITH THE ELECTRIC HEAD JOG FUTARIA. CONTACT YOUR LOCAL WHOLESALER OR VISIT HAIRTOOLS.CO.UK

STARS OF 2022

THE ESSENTIALS

YES, IT’S BEEN a year of colour innovation and impressive styling launches, but what stylists value most often are the everyday essential tools that help make their job that much easier. Extensions of a stylist’s own fingers, your hairbrush needs to deliver precisely what you want, and leave clients thrilled with the results. That’s exactly where Hair Made Easi enters the fray…

Designed to help you save time when your column’s stacked, and create revenue to see your business (and reputation) skyrocket, Hair Made Easi’s Professional Blowdry and Paddle Brush ranges have illustrated how the brand has your back. Available in 25mm, 32mm and 45mm barrel sizes, the Professional Blowdry Brush has been designed by professionals for the ultimate stylist and client experience. The extra-long barrel, made with antistatic smoothing technology to easily create shine and volume, holds more hair than standard blow dry brushes. This means quicker drying time, reduced service times and increased revenue. Boom!

With a non-slip, super-soft grip handle, the ergonomic design lets you create amazing looks without compromising comfort. Finished with a sectioning and cleaning tool, this clever little extra thought makes blow-drys quicker and brush maintenance easy.

Flexible and soft, the Professional Paddle Brush is also there to help detangle even the most unruly hair, including extensions. Suitable for both wet and dry hair, the non-slip, soft grip handle and curved design will suit all head shapes while ensuring a smooth, gentle detangling experience every time. This is brushing made beautifully Easi.

STARS OF 2022

THE INSIDER’S SECRET

LOCKDOWN SAW A huge swing towards self-care, with consumers embracing wellbeing like never before. From postpartum to menopause, illness to stress, hair loss has become high on the agenda for many of your clients. That’s precisely why Hair Food from GLOWWA is such a prescient innovation for salons up and down the land, offering a natural way to support healthy hair growth from the inside out.

It delivers hairdressers a fantastic opportunity to illustrate their expertise and recommend something that can offer incredible results, helping you win their loyalty, trust and their spend in return.

Packed with ingredients such as niacin, biotin, zinc, coconut water and vitamins B5, B6, B12 and C, the blend includes MSM and L-Lysine, both real hero ingredients for naturally blocking the hormone DHT. DHT causes hair loss, so this marvellous mixture reduces shedding and supports hair growth. The vegan formula is also

free from dairy, gluten, sugar, colourings, sweeteners, bulking agents and flavourings. Taken daily, GLOWWA Hair Food is a secret weapon when it comes to improved hair growth, better overall condition, less shedding, a more balanced scalp and recovery from postpartum- and stressrelated hair loss. And results can start to be seen in as little as 12 weeks, meaning you can make a real difference to your client’s confidence in just a couple of visits.

From poor diets to digestive problems, poor sleep and outside pollutants, so many of us can benefit from a little extra help. Created with wellness in mind, Hair Food supports not only the hair growth cycle but better general health and wellbeing too – for as little as a pound a day. Is it time to give your guests a real glow up? Ready, set, GLOWWA!

GLOWWA HAIR FOOD IS AVAILABLE IN 30 AND 90 DAYS’ SUPPLY – DISCOVER HOW YOU CAN GET THE GLOW AND BECOME AN APPROVED STOCKIST – VISIT GLOWWA.COM

inside and

CARING FOR CURLS, KINKS AND COILS

SYD HAYES: TURNING POINTS

DIMENSIONAL

NATURALS

BY MARTÍN FOX

HAIR SWAT (Strangeways Art Team). CREATIVE DIRECTION Martyn Holmes. STYLING Models’ Own, Left Bank Six and

Latham Street Leigh on Sea. MAKE-UP Sophie Mash. PHOTOGRAPHY Martín Fox (@the.photodome)

EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT

THE COTERIE: IN SESSION

FOR THE FIRST time ever we took Coterie: In Session on the road, setting up in Manchester’s fivefourstudios for an evening of live session styling, sponsored by BaByliss PRO. Guests were treated to the talents of Carlo Avena, Jody Taylor, Louis Byrne and Tariq Howes, each finishing a look in just 20 minutes. Host George Driver, digital beauty editor at Elle, was on hand to take guests through her top trends from the recent S/S23 shows, too.

Jody’s modern punk look was inspired by his S/S23 fashion work at the Vetements and Fred Perry shows. He went in with a freehand razor and the BaByliss PRO CustomFX Trimmer to create serious Sid Vicious vibes. Louis Byrne tapped into George’s mermaid trend with his model, featuring undone texture on long lengths using a BaByliss PRO Deep Waver and a 25mm Curling Tong.

There was the clash of subcultures for Carlo Avena’s look, merging late punk and new romantic vibes with futurism on a coloured, crimped and texturised wig. Finally Tariq Howes stepped up to create a modern Mohawk shape, drawing on elements of its punk rock iteration and its early ’00s, highly groomed footballer comeback, using his BaByliss PRO CustomFX Clipper and Trimmer duo.

The styling fun didn’t end there, next came the classic Coterie: In Session five-minute styling challenge! As the clock counted down, the four stylists raced to adapt their looks for the challenge of an ‘avant-garde look with an editorial twist’, using everything from spray colour to wig-fringes. Guests left stuffed with inspiration, and a goody bag containing a BaByliss PRO Super Motor Clipper and Trimmer duo, to start playing with their own session creations.

George Driver

Jody Taylor

Tariq Howes

Louis Byrne

Carlo Avena

WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2022 FINAL

THERE WAS A palpable rush of excitement when entering Magazine London, the Thames-side new location of the Wella TrendVision Award Final. After years at The Roundhouse, guests now found themselves overlooking an incredible view of the city skyline, and experiencing this legendary Wella competition in an entirely fresh way.

Some things are too iconic to change (hello, Patrick Cameron!), but the hair display on the impressive catwalk was distinctly moving more towards the editorial, with oodles of longer looks to get salon clients excited. There was still plenty of precision, of experimentation, but all delivered with a new sense of maturity.

The shows were next level, with Viper from HOB Academy

keeping things dark and edgy, while Kaleidoscope from a Wella collaboration team (featuring Stil, Charlie Taylor, House of Colour, Medusa, James Earnshaw, Karbon Kyd, Sarah Mason Professional and Cobella) was a blend of glam, chic, minimal and avant-garde. Robert Eaton and the Russell Eaton Creative Team stunned with colour blocking, textured knots in neon thread, and disco-worthy levels of glitter and sequins. It was all delicious.

The winners, when revealed, were a brilliant reflection of salon, college and independent stylist artistry and imagination, and more than one was moved to tears as they accepted their trophy. That said it all really – this was absolutely something special to be part of.

HOB Academy

Wella Collaboration Team

Wella Collaboration Team Robert Eaton

Robert Eaton

Denise

and Patrick

KAO SALON GLOBAL EXPERIENCE

COLOUR AND CREATIVITY lit up the stage in Amsterdam as almost 2,300 hairdressers came together for the first in-person Kao Salon Global Experience since 2019. Those who couldn’t join in the festivities tuned in from home to see the global winners of the hybrid competition named.

There was so much to see and do over the two-day event, including the live competitions of the Global Creative Awards. The Technical Categories got underway bright and early, comprising of New Talent Colorist of the Year, Creative Colorist of the Year and – new for 2022 – Creative Haircutter of the Year. Meanwhile the arena buzzed with live artist sessions from Kao salon partners across the globe, while attendees could also check out the latest innovations from Goldwell, KMS, Varis and Oribe.

The Global Creative Awards Gala Evening began with a vivid dance display from the host nation, full of energy for the evening ahead. We saw hair shows from Mario Krankl, inspired by Goldwell’s rich history ahead of its 75th anniversary next year, as well as global Goldwell ambassador Angelo Seminara. Seminara blew away the crowd with the reveal of his new hair collection, and film, for Hair Every Wear 2.0. We were also treated to a sneak peek at the upcoming relaunch of Kerasilk, and four salons from across Asia, North America, Australia and Europe were recognised as top-tier sustainable salons. But what about those all-important awards? The UK grabbed its best-ever haul on the global stage, winning six awards – including a clean sweep in the Editorial Colorist of the Year category!

Neil Barton

Opening show

AND THE WINNERS ARE…

EDITORIAL COLORIST OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Ben Driscoll-Price, UK

SILVER – Amy Wardley, UK BRONZE – Jack Mead & Lydia Wolfe, UK

AVANT-GARDE STYLIST OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Tom Yek Teng Siong, Malaysia

SILVER – Manou Grijsen, Netherlands BRONZE – Abbie Jackson, Australia

SALON TEAM OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Siew Thiam Kui, Malaysia

SILVER – Rafa Monzó López, Spain BRONZE – Donna Page, UK

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Andrew Plester, UK SILVER – Jeffrey Den Dikkenboer, Netherlands BRONZE – Jos Verzijlberg, Netherlands

NEW TALENT COLORIST OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Tiew Pei Yu, Malaysia

SILVER – Emily Kooistra, Canada BRONZE – Lucia McEvoy, UK

CREATIVE COLORIST OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Junz Loke, Singapore

SILVER – Ian Lee Jia Pei, Malaysia BRONZE – Tasha Yip, Hong Kong

CREATIVE HAIRCUTTER OF THE YEAR

GOLD – Daniela Farzetti, Italy SILVER – Rafael Monzó López, Spain BRONZE – Alex Tant, USA

Mario Krankl

Angelo Seminara

Technical category winners

UK winners

THE LAST WORD ON…

Seasonal burnout

WHEN CHRISTMAS EVE rolls around, are you ready to enjoy the festivities? Or are you often face down in your pillow, exhausted from the month of 12-hour days and back-to-back clients?

“Burnout symptoms can include loss of motivation with the things you normally love, feelings of self-doubt and failure with your work, feeling exhausted, angry, or annoyed at the slightest things, and losing your creative drive,” explains John Anthoney, Matrix artist ambassador. “As a manager it’s important to recognise these signs with your team and understand why they are feeling stressed.”

We know it’s coming each year, so how can we be better prepared? Psychologist Jess Baker, author of The Super-Helper Syndrome, advises you to protect your psychological boundaries. “Does working in a lively salon energise you or drain you? Avoid psychological exhaustion by recharging your batteries in a way that is healthier for you,” she says. “If you’re an introvert, this means spending time alone after work to recover from the overload on your senses. If you’re an extrovert, you’d benefit from spending time with others.”

Overestimate how long tasks will take – that’s the advice from Pulp Riot artist Ewan Fraser. “Instead of cramming clients in, make time for each guest so they have your full attention, and leave enough time for food breaks and toilet breaks for yourself before you move onto the next person, to ensure they can receive the same premium treatment.”

Denman ambassador Alan Beak from Ruger Barber stresses how vital healthy habits are in avoiding burnout and prioritising your wellbeing. “Before I start work I plan out my jobs in order of importance. I set out my intentions for the day and briefly reflect of the previous day. This type of processing really helps with stress and pressure,” he says.

During the Christmas season, he ring-fences some time to reflect. “I’ll book

time out daily, even if it’s just 30 minutes to go for a short walk or eat away from the salon. When I feel burnout is near and I feel overwhelmed then I need to take more extreme measures, which might include cold water therapy or a phone ban.”

Wellness coach Beth Fuller urges you to assess what you can and cannot control.

“In service-based businesses, it can feel like you need to be in control of everything and everyone, but that’s the fastest road to burnout,” she admits. “A great exercise is to complete a table of what’s in and out of your control and what you can do about it.”

Be tough and say ‘no’, advises nutritionist Rosie Millen. “You get burnout when your plate is already full but you keep on adding to it, so try to delegate where you can.” Practical efforts help too, including watching your alcohol intake and taking a probiotic such as Bio-Kult to help with any rushed or unhealthy eating. She also suggests scheduling ‘green’ time: “This is healing time that allows your body and adrenal glands to relax. Book a massage, have a bath, or read a book – essentially, do anything that will stop the stress response.”

CHRISTMAS CAN SEE YOU WORKING LONG HOURS OVER LONG WEEKS WITH LITTLE DOWNTIME. HOW CAN WE AVOID SEASONAL EXHAUSTION?

Claudia Schwarz for Unsplash