£4.50 FEBRUARY 2015
In print •online•everywhere!
FEBRUARY 2015 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Make history
Leave your mark with style
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The planet is my passion
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YEARS
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PHOTOGRAPHY Alexander Jordan. HAIR Nicole Hewitt and Josh Denholm for the Paul Mitchell Media Team using Paul Mitchell. MAKE-UP Rachel Fudge at New CID Cosmetics using New CID Cosmetics. STYLING Holly Ounstead at Frank Agency, with special thanks to Shao Yen, Yifang Wan and Edeline Lee. MODELS Daan at Milk Management and Holly Denny at Next Management
Thirty
The original choice
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1 0 2 Feel beautiful
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10 TO SEE MORE from the shoot and watch all the action backstage, download our iPad issue
Be amazing
1980 The first Paul Mitchell products hit the US
market. The packaging was black and white only because it was too costly to print in colour!
1987 launch: Freeze and Shine Super Spray
2002 launch: The Color and PM Shines
2001 launch: Tea Tree
2004 launch: global bestseller Super Skinny Serum
BEYOND THE BOTTLE 1987 Paul Mitchell products arrive in UK salons, and Paul’s visionary project to create a solar-electric vehicle was realized. The car was later donated to the Petersen Automotive Museum in Los Angeles. 2010 launch: Awapuhi Wild Ginger
IN 1980, HAIRDRESSER PAUL MITCHELL AND ENTREPRENEUR JOHN PAUL DEJORIA POOLED $700 TO FORM PAUL MITCHELL, LAUNCHING IN THE US PROFESSIONAL MARKET WITH A QUARTET OF PRODUCTS. SEVEN DIFFERENT SYSTEMS AND 130 PRODUCTS LATER, THE ICONIC GLOBAL BRAND IS CELEBRATING 35 YEARS ON THE PLANET. SO WHAT’S THE STORY?
2008 International campaign
1990 Paul Mitchell receives a Humanitarian
Award from People Magazine for the Ethical Treatment of Animals.
2012 launch: Mitch Style and Curls
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2005 Paul Mitchell begins working with American Forests Global ReLeaf campaign, assisting in the planting of trees in Europe and the US.
‘Head for Change’ launches – based on the ethic that if we all make small changes to the way we live and work then the world will be a better place for everyone.
2013 launch: Forever Blonde 2014 launch: Neuro 2014 Paul Mitchell is judged one of the UK’s coolest brands by CoolBrands – for the second year running!
2015 Happy birthday, Paul
Mitchell. Bring on tomorrow!
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
THE STORY OF MY LIFE BORN IN CARNWATH, Scotland, in 1936 and brought up in London, Paul Thompson Mitchell (actually, his name was Cyril, but he later changed it) was destined for a career in hairdressing – his mother was Carnwath’s very first hairdresser! He trained at the Morris School of Hairdressing in Piccadilly and by his 18th birthday had become a multi awardwinning stylist. Little wonder, then, that a few years later Paul connected with the legendary Vidal Sassoon, who saw “something terribly special” in him – first giving him a job at his Bond Street salon and then reassigning him to New York, where Paul took on the role of training Vidal’s entire American salon network. By the late ’60s, Paul’s star was in the ascendancy. With a successful NYC salon opening – Crimpers – under his belt, he was busy liberating women from lengthy appointments by creating easy-care cuts and no-fuss styles that were transforming their lives. It was Paul who created the revolutionary notion of ‘wash-and-wear hair’ – saving his female clients time and money by teaching them how to take care of their hair at home. During the early ’70s Paul opened Superhair, another smash hit New York salon, formed the Paul Mitchell Cutting Club (training 30 students every day), famously fashioned the ‘shag’ ’do and discovered Hawaiian wonder plant Awapuhi – now widely used within the Paul Mitchell ranges. In 1980 – with business partner John Paul DeJoria at his side – he brought his first professional hair products to the American market. Paul Mitchell was born… A true visionary, Paul’s creative talent helped to transform the face of hairdressing; Paul Mitchell products – now sold in more than 80 countries and trusted by hairdressers and consumers alike – are high-performing, cutting-edge and widely celebrated; an all-star artistic team travels the world to keep salon professionals at the top of their game; and Paul’s die-hard cruelty-free, eco-friendly ethics have earned the brand global respect and recognition. Sadly, Paul passed away in 1989 but his son, Angus, is paying it forward and his legacy lives on.
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NEW-LOOK WEBSITE! PAUL-MITCHELL.CO.UK FOR STOCKIST INFORMATION CALL 0845 659 0011
#GivingIsMyStyle – join the global Paul Mitchell family and tell the world why you think it’s important to give back, or how you’re making a difference on Instagram or Twitter with the above hashtag, and Paul Mitchell will donate $1 to one of the brand’s favorite charities on your behalf.
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Editor’s letter
62 72 19 JOIN US!
Looking through our pages this month, I was struck by a particular theme, that of maturity. This is an industry where artists, concepts and innovations grow and mature, constantly evolving to keep ideas fresh and minds inspired. Creative director Sam Burnett has taken that next step by launching his new brand and flagship salon, Hare & Bone; the march of progress is illustrated by the new BlowStyling brush from Tangle Teezer, a testament to the ever-whirring cogs of founder Shaun Pulfrey’s imagination. Perhaps it’s best seen in Lee Stafford – widely celebrated as the enfant terrible of hairdressing back in the ’90s, Lee is now one of the most popular and engaging stage presences in the land. He is driven by a passion to deliver the best education to young stylists and improve the standard of hairdressing originating in UK colleges. Discover his recipes for success in our fascinating interview on page 72, and book your tickets to see him in person at Salon Smart, where he’s promised to lift the lid on all the ups and downs of his incredible career. I cannot wait…
Amanda Nottage Editor
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year
amanda@headmag.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine
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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App
Tickets are disappearing fast for Creative HEAD’s annual business networking event, Salon Smart, taking place on 26 & 27 April 2015 at London’s Park Plaza Riverbank hotel. If you haven’t got yours, don’t hang about – the last two years have been sold out, and with 2015 set to deliver a mix of advice, ideas and non-stop networking, we bet you won’t want to miss it. Speakers include the Charlie Miller team, Hooker & Young and Lee Stafford – and the full line-up is positively electric. So book now! A Weekend Pass costs £189 per person (includes all meals and overnight 4-star accommodation), or you can buy a Day Pass (Monday only) for £99. Find out more from page 40.
@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag
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WHAT’S INSIDE I WANT IT ALL
Smoothing, curling, add-ons – the best ways to give clients what they want
CLOSE UP
Belstaff at London Collections: Men
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ON THE COVER
SCENE
52
An absolutely fabulous evening with Headmasters
EDITOR
ART
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
AMANDA NOTTAGE
GRAEME WHITE
DAVID HAMMOND
DEPUTY EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
BETH DAVIE
ADAM WOOD
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
ADVERTISING
NICK JABBAL
LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER
JOANNA ANDERSEN
creativeheadmag.com
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PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD Magazine
Hair Nicole Hewitt and Josh Denholm for the Paul Mitchell Media Team. Make-up Rachel Fudge at New CID Cosmetics. Styling Holly Ounstead at Frank Agency, with special thanks to Shao Yen, Yifang Wan and Edeline Lee. Photography Alexander Jordan.
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
14/01/2015 12:15
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Schwarzkopf Professional are recruiting
Technical Advisors in the UK (including Northern Ireland - border counties) DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES… TO BE A SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL…? Schwarzkopf Professional is one of the leading product companies in the international hairdressing market with a global presence in over 80 countries. World class hairdressers use our products to bring the latest fashion trends to their clients through our colour, styling, care and form product ranges. What do we do? • Develop innovative professional hair products and concepts • Deliver personal service and support to hairdressers and their clients • Provide a worldwide hairdressing education standard The Position The position of Technical Advisor is of the greatest strategic importance to our company internationally. This role requires both experience within the hairdressing industry, combined with a vision to implement new and exciting ideas. Is this you? We seek a candidate who is enthusiastic, driven, passionate and has the ability to inspire and motivate those around them. Someone who can deliver creative trend driven education to Schwarzkopf Professional customers and our own teams.
Schwarzkopf Essential Looks/ Modern Glamour Collection 2: 2014
Ideally you would: • Have a friendly enthusiastic outgoing personality • Have a minimum of 5 years’ experience in hairdressing • Be able to demonstrate creative core skills in colour, form and styling • Have a finger on the pulse for what is about to happen in our industry • Be able to bring concepts to life and deliver these into a competitive marketplace • Be highly organised and have good administrative and pc skills • Have an individual sense of style and a genuine interest in the fashion world • Have had experience in platform/stage work • Be willing to be flexible and adapt to the needs of the role • Have experience in training people, setting goals and objectives and monitoring progress on a regular basis INTERESTED? Please apply in writing enclosing your full curriculum vitae to: Gael Addington Schwarzkopf Professional Wood Lane End, Hemel Hempstead, Herts HP2 4RQ Closing date for applications is Friday 27th February 2015
Together. A passion for hair
www.schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
Images, clockwise from top: Christopher Shannon, Christopher Raeburn, Xander Zhou and Topman
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
GOV’T REJECTS STATE REGISTER FOR HAIRDRESSERS A REQUEST FOR ALL hairdressers to be placed on a compulsory state register has been rejected by the UK government, on the grounds that the move would not guarantee the quality of hairdressers. Nia Griffith, MP for Llanelli, raised the issue in a parliamentary debate last month. She said: “I was quite shocked to find out that in the UK a person does not need any qualifications to practice as a hairdresser.” While Griffith believed state registry would protect the consumer from the “unscrupulous” or “incompetent”, Richard Fuller, MP for Bedford, stated that he believed sufficient protections for the consumer were already in place. He said: “Supply and demand works. If someone is operating a salon and provides poor or risky service, they will go out of business because in most communities people know which barbers and hairdressers do not work effectively.” Jeff Goodwin, owner of Jeff Goodwin Hair in Exeter, shares this view. “There are too many questions unanswered about state registration,” he said. “What criteria is it based on? I’m also concerned about how a state registry would be monitored – who will go round and check all working hairdressers are registered? Who will pay for it? The industry will. We first need to pay better wages and tighten up training programmes to attract better people. Then we can look at a state registry.” However, Francesco Group’s managing director, Ben Dellicompagni, agreed with Nia Griffith’s request. He said: “Registration is a step towards ensuring the quality and professionalism of the hairdressing industry and safeguarding consumers against unqualified traders. Consumers need to trust that they are in the hands of professionals.”
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LondonCollections: Men takes a buffalo stance
RAVERS AND THE BUFFALO look of the ’80s were among the retro-inspired hair finishes seen at the A/W15 London Collections: Men shows. Across the board, teams cited inspiration from the ’70s and ’80s, with Topman sporting a ’70s voluminous blow-dried finish by Matt Mulhall for Bumble and bumble, Daniel Jordan for GO24.7 referencing “an old English gent from a ’70s western film” at Richard James, and Gary Gill for SP Men creating an ’80s buffalo look to contrast the designs at Christopher Raeburn. At Christopher Shannon, official hair partner Fudge Professional celebrated Haçienda mornings, with creative director John Vial styling up sweaty ravers. At Xander Zhou, the Sassoon team led by Bruce Masefield referenced the DON’T MISS IT! Entry deadline for the ’70s with Farrah Fawcett-inspired flicks. L’Oréal Colour Trophy is Friday 27 February. Enter now at lorealcolourtrophy.com
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#CHedit ghd ambassador Adam Reed with members of the curent Style Squad
MY month
AHEAD
What February has in store for...
PAUL ADAMCUK
CHEYNES HAIRDRESSING
“We’ve launched our first exclusive training in conjunction with Wella Professionals and the Cheynes pop-up salon in Edinburgh this month will see Cheynes Education running a two-day advanced cutting and a two-day refresher course. The Artistic Team is also travelling across the country with the Wella Professionals’ TrendVision Award Insight tour.”
ADAM BRYANT
ETHOS HAIRDRESSING
“Fresh from the Matrix Inspire Me tour, we’re now busy planning our events calendar as well as organising a trip to research our 2015 collections. We’re also making plans for our Most Wanted Awards entries. Finally, I’m hoping to fit in a cheeky glass of wine or two with my salon co-owner, Sharon Peake!”
ADELE SYLVESTER B.O.B SALONS
“It’s our second salon anniversary coming up and we’re celebrating by creating our very own photographic hair collection, Aurora. We have completed the winter collection and now preparing the moodboards and models for the spring/summer collection. Any spare moments I have will be spent studying and practising my presentation skills for the Paul Mitchell Art Team accreditation day.”
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HUNT BEGINS FOR NEW GHD STYLE SQUAD STYLING SUPERBRAND ghd is searching for new members of its latest Style Squad, the talent-nurturing initiative for young stylists comprising those aged between 18 and 21 from across the UK and Republic of Ireland who are keen to hone their finishing skills. Auditions are planned for 5 and 6 May and those who win a place on the team will enjoy a year of learning and networking under the mentorship of ghd’s lead educator, Lorna Baker. Opportunities include working at ghd
media events and London Fashion Week, giving Squad members the chance to learn the backstage tricks of catwalk hair, strengthen their skills and expand their portfolios. At the end of the year, each member will be invited to present at a graduation ceremony hosted at ghd’s London studio, where friends and family can share in the celebration. Think you’ve got it? Email ghdstylesquad@ghdhair.com by 10 April, and be ready for the live auditions in London in May.
Schwarzkopf unveils new members’ club
Fancy your chances at this year’s Wella Professionals TrendVision Awards? Then check SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL is launching a new members’ club to encourage salons to make the most out the Wella Professionals TrendVision of the opportunities the brand has to offer. The ELITE Insight events, taking place up and down Club will consist of platforms to help salons network, the UK this month. Teams from Cheynes, communicate better, perfect their artistic skills and gain Sanrizz and Marc Antoni will present the access to a host of gatherings. It will also offer career new trends, and you’ll find out more development opportunities with the Young Artistic Team about the reinvented Color Vision (for stylists aged under 25) and AHEAD (for over 25s). These category, too! To find your nearest yearlong programmes offer a variety of experiences such as event, call 0845 601 8128 stage work, session experience and assisting ambassadors. On the business front, there will be support from the Brand Guardian Programme, offering a toolbox of marketing material bespoke to salons to help create retail superstars. Networking events include Elite Summit and the Elite Performance Awards.
CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit An essential for colourists, Paul Mitchell’s new liquid formula Wipe Out gently and easily removes colour stains from the skin.
SALON PRICE £14.59 0845 659 0011 paul-mitchell.co.uk
Cure by Chiara works with hair’s natural texture to tame and restore, and a percentage of the proceeds support Cancer Research UK.
RRP £59.95 0113 278 1292
The new look TIGI Bed Head for Men is about streamlined, high-performance formulas for quiffs, layers and beyond.
RRP FROM £9.50 0844 844 0944 bedhead.com
louise.jenkins@icon-concept.co.uk
Want nourishment and strength in a featherweight mist? Then repair hair with Joico K-PAK Color Therapy Dry Oil Spray.
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
Got clients who want to get adventurous? Help them conduct an experiment with the Crazy Color starter pack.
RRP £16.50
0141 812 5000
crazycolor.co.uk
Give colour clients exactly what they want with Couture Colour from Wella Professionals. Each service is dedicated to delivering a personalised colour finish to the client, using brands such as Blondor, Koleston Perfect Innosense, Illumina and Color.id. It’s brilliant, bespoke business.
RRP £16.95 0845 071 2326 joicoeurope.com
IN-SALON SERVICE 01202 595700 wella.com
Help clients wake up to stronger hair with extra elasticity with Overnight Hair Repair from Sachajuan.
RRP £35
07743 285024 sachajuan.com
Fudge Professional favourites Dynamite and 1 Shot have had makeovers, with Dynamite now also available in a one litre backwash size.
Imported from Japan by Fashion Week favourite Anna Chapman, the array of grips from Session Kit are the bomb backstage for real hold.
RRP FROM £10.45 020 7845 6333
SALON PRICE FROM £7 INFO@SESSIONKIT.COM
fudge.com
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sessionkit.com
CREATIVE HEAD
15/01/2015 12:00
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
Oils made a huge impact on salons when they hit UK shores a few years ago, but many clients struggle with them – some complain they are too heavy for their locks to love. Well, they can now welcome the lighter side of oil life with the BC Oil Miracle Mist from Schwarzkopf Professional. Silicone-free, ultra-light and fastdrying, the mist kisses hair with luxurious care without weighing it down, transforming dull and dry hair in a heartbeat. And thanks to its Micro-Dispersion Technology, it allows the hair to dry faster than other hair oils, so it’s great for salon styling. For those with finer strands, opt for BC Oil Miracle Mist with Marula Oil; while BC Oil Miracle Mist with Argan Oil for thick hair is great for customers with plenty of locks. Spray and display!
RRP £19.95 EACH 01442 278000 schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... MOUSSE Forget the ’80s, it’s all about new age volume with Elevate Mousse from Unite. Thanks to the argan oil, hair won’t be crunchy but weightless, soft and moveable.
RRP £18.50
0845 034 0770
unitehair.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
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Made with ceramides and sunflower extract, Care & Style Froth from Affinage is a colour-safe mousse that locks in moisture and protein while guarding against heat damage.
RRP £8.90 01794 527111
affinage.com
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ADD TO BASKET
Clients go to the hairdresser to relax and unwind as much as they do to get their split-ends trimmed, but often, after a fabulous backwash massage and a precise cut, the boom of the blowdry can snap them out of their serene state. Well Valera has unveiled the Swiss Silent 8600 Jet – and on its 60th birthday, too! They’ve used modern fluid dynamics simulation software to develop Valera’s Smart Airflow Technology, which eliminates unwanted friction and dispersion. In plain speak, it guarantees maximum performance with minimum noise levels. And it comes with a tangle-free rotocord and a stay-cool nozzle, too! BUY IT! £64.99
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CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit Our tea m at The Crafts event in Spitalfields
A look from our Oka for colle ctio n at the Dav ines Wo rld Wid e Ha ir Tou r
New backwa sh ceili ng art tha nks to illustrat or Em ma Loftsro m
Quote of the day!
A pee k at our new clie nt goodie bag s!
In the frame Johnny Othona, director of Ena Salon and Allilon Education SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativehead
Supporting the Vital For Childre n charity
Models lining up at the Ena Apprentice Graduation show
RISING STAR
We’re very excited about the launch of our own brush and comb range
Som e of the tea m tak e a well-de served brea k on safa ri in South Africa
Why did you want to be a hairdresser? Hairdressing has fascinated me since I was little and I went to my uncle Alexander McQueen’s fashion shows. I’d run around backstage watching stylists and make-up artists transform models.
What have been your highlights so far? Assisting Anna Chapman. She has been a massive inspiration. Also, winning the men’s award at Headmasters Colour Heroes was a huge highlight!
Sponso ring the launch of Dash magazine Where do you see yourself in 10 years’ time? I see myself doing session work and styling for major fashion shows in London and Milan.
What would be your dream hairdressing gig? Heading up my own session team and creating hair for major fashion shows around the world.
NAME: ELIOT MCQUEEN AGE: 22 SALON: HEADMASTERS BRIGHTON
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#CHedit
Inside story HARE & BONE LONDON It’s been a long time coming, but it was worth the wait! Hare & Bone is the flagship launch from fashion and editorial favourite Sam Burnett, and he’s handpicked a team of talented stylists and colourists to man the two-floor location. With sleek Olymp furniture and shelves stocked with Goldwell and KMS California, there is a distinctly ultra-chic finish. Clients will adore the dedicated coffee bar and ‘time out’ table, as well as the services on offer, which include a breakfast blow-dry bar and the Hare Miles programme. Those racking up the points can aspire to join the Beehive Club, the elite cadre of clients who’ll gain access to special services and events, such as trend presentations and even tickets to Sam’s London Fashion Week shows. As UK ambassador for KMS California and with past shows including the likes of Bora Aksu, that’s a pretty big prize.
SEE the ‘before’ shots and read more about the makeover on our iPad issue
HOT BUYS
now open
A CERTAIN CACHET… This Pietranera Wen Prestige backwash unit certainly earns its title – not only does it look good, it now comes with quilted upholstered sides, too. From £1,835 + vat 020 8903 0002 lsehair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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BLO COVENT GARDEN
US blow dry bar brand Blo – partly backed by Gwyneth Paltrow – has landed in London and features Unite styling products at its eight stations.
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#CHedit
Image courtesy of Fudge Professional
CLOSE-UP
BELSTAFF A/W15
There was a distinctly retro vibe at London Collections: Men for the A/W15 season, with Belstaff celebrating the ton-up biker boys of ’50s Britain – fearless and reckless, they lived for the moment. Fudge Professional’s creative director, John Vial, delivered a modern take on the rockabilly quiff to capture the essence of The Wild One, using new Fudge Professional Structure Wax, available in May. Each model received bespoke styling, so no two men looked the same. There were two discernable finishes – hair was either pushed back to create a rock ‘n’ roll, lived-in feel (almost as if the models had just pulled off their helmets), or styled forward across the face with a matte, textured finish. Don’t forget, you’ll also need plenty of attitude… WANT TO SEE more from the catwalks? Download Runway on your iPad this month, available from the App Store
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THEY WANT! what they REALLY, REALLY
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14/01/2015 14:01:27
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CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
BIG IDEA
TANGLE TEEZER
Blow-Styling Hairbrush IT’S PERHAPS THE MOST common complaint in the salon chair: clients despairing at the fact they cannot recreate that blow-dry brilliance at home. The answer to their prayers may have just arrived, courtesy of the man who’s revolutionised hairbrushes once already! Shaun P, inventor of the now iconic Tangle Teezer, has created a brush that can deliver faster drying, volume, shine and a professional smooth finish. “The technology is in the teeth,” reveals Shaun, allowing for free-flow tension and the removal of excess water, leaving the hair ready for the dryer. There’s no dragging, no pulling, and the teeth also help to smooth down the cuticle, encouraging sparkling shine. “This will be a talking point, a conversation starter,” he adds. “It doesn’t look like anything you’ve seen before.” Could this mean the end of those bicep-building stretch blow-drys for stylists? One thing’s for sure, the brush will be a boon for retail – the promise of a smooth, professional-style finish that clients can do for themselves, for under £20? Prepare that extra shelf space now… The Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling Hairbrush is available in a full paddle (£18 RRP) and a half paddle (£17 RRP). For more details, contact 020 7274 6128 or visit tangleteezer.com
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THE BUSINESS EDIT NATIONAL MINIMUM WAGE FINES ARE INCREASING – IS YOUR SALON SAFE? EMPLOYERS WHO FAIL to pay employees the right wage risk being publicly named and can face penalties of up to £20,000 per underpaid worker as early as this summer, rather than £20,000 in total as it currently stands. The increased fine follows the government’s tougher stance on businesses that don’t pay the right National Minimum Wage (NMW) rate, which also saw the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills ‘naming and shaming’ 25 employers, including several hair and beauty salons, for owing their workers thousands of pounds after failing to pay them the correct NMW. The 25 employers included a salon in Reading that failed to pay more than £5,000 to a worker, while another in Prestwick owed a worker more than £3,000. “There’s been so many changes to NMW that it can easily catch a salon out,” says Kay McIntrye of McIntyres Hairdressing in Dundee. “The regulation hasn’t been clear enough, but if we want to attract the best people salons have to get on board with this – we can’t keep being known as a low pay industry that’s seen as a last resort.” Hilary Hall, secretary general of the NHF, says: “I don’t think salon owners intend to pay their workers less than they are entitled to. After all, the NMW is a legal requirement and it was first introduced in 1999 – so it’s not new.” But Hilary believes the confusion for salon owners stems from the different rates for under 18s, 18 to 20-year-olds and 21-year-olds and over. And it becomes even more confusing when it comes to apprentices with a different rate again for them if they’re under 19. It also matters whether they are in the first year of an apprenticeship, because if they are over 19 and they’ve finished their first year of straining, they move onto the relevant rate (ages 18 to 20).
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FROM INSIDE
THE SALON
“It’s a perfect storm for salon owners because they typically take on young people aged 16 or 17, and often they’re doing an apprenticeship as well. It means owners have to know when their workers have birthdays, especially the birthdays that trigger a change in their payment rates,” she explains. Research by the TUC showed that seven out of 10 hairdressing apprentices were not paid at the right rate in 2012, putting the hairdressing industry firmly into the spotlight when it comes to NMW. “Is that the reputation we want for our industry?” asks Hilary. “How are we going to attract young people into hairdressing if they see it as a low-paid, dead end job?” The NMW rises in October last year were the first above-inflation increases since 2008, taking it up to £6.50 an hour. So what can salons do to ensure they’re not on the government’s next naming and shaming list and risk receiving a penalty fine? “At KH Hair we’ve taken the decision to invest in an external HR company, which ensures that we are always adhering to the latest legislation and guidelines when it comes to minimum wage,” says Darren Messias from the East Midlands hair group. “My payroll system has a flagging alert when employees hit a specific birthday, such as 19, a note comes up so we can change their wage. We also make the team aware of their rights and they’re the perfect back up – they know to tell us when they turn 19, 21 or 25 as they know it means more money for them,” adds Ken Picton, owner of Ken Picton salon in Cardiff. Download the NHF’s guide at nhf.info/nhf-guides
FOR MORE on the National Minimum Wage and changes to employment law that will affect salon owners, turn to page 26
MARC WESTERMAN DIRECTOR, WESTROW
If salons aren’t paying NMW, it is likely to be because the economic downturn made times a lot tougher for them. I’ve found that, due to the last recession, lots of hairdressing salons are making their stylists self-employed or renting chairs to stylists. “The regulation can be confusing if you haven’t read about it. There are so many minimum rates of pay, which differ according to age and whether the person is on an apprenticeship. “At Westrow, all pay is administered centrally through HR and they make sure every franchisee or salon manager knows about any change well in advance so that pay can be adjusted accordingly. “I don’t think that it’s particularly helpful to name and shame salons for not paying the right wages. I think that a more advantageous approach would be to highlight the employers or salon owners who are running a professional business and have a duty of care to the people they employ.”
CREATIVE HEAD
15/01/2015 12:07
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
Build a better future Keen to start or grow your salon business this year? Make it happen by opening a franchise salon with Rush Hair RUSH HAIR HAS MORE than 20 years of experience in making salons successful, so whether you’re keen to expand an already successful salon or are just starting out, Rush Hair can make it happen. It’s never been a better time to open your own Rush Hair franchise. The award-winning brand has more than 60 salons across the country and it’s looking to expand this year in a number of high-profile locations. What’s required of you? You’ll need a minimum personal investment of £15,000, be able to provide excellent customer service and build a great team. In return, you’ll get a dedicated Rush Hair franchise team
to support you every step of the way. The team will make sure everything goes smoothly in the creation of the right look and feel for your new franchise salon (if it works for you, it works for Rush Hair). They will advise you on the design of the space and your day-to-day salon management, as well as recruiting and training your team. Rush Hair wants people who are brimming with passion for the hairdressing industry, but that are also business savvy when it comes to the bottom line. If you have fantastic business skills and a desire to open your own salon, Rush Hair is the perfect fit. Get in touch today and make your dream of a better future come true.
Interested in owning a Rush Hair franchise? To find out more, email franchising@rush.co.uk, call 020 3740 6776 or visit rush.co.uk/franchise
CREATIVE HEAD
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15/01/2015 11:04
#BusinessEdit
CHANCELLOR SCRAPS ‘JOBS TAX’ ON APPRENTICESHIPS CALL TO MAKE 2015 ‘THE YEAR OF RETAIL’
SALONS ARE BEING urged to make 2015 the year they really focus on pushing retail sales. In a tough climate on the high street, retail sales can become an important secondary source of revenue for salons, according to Alice Kirby, director of new NHF affiliate member Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing. Salon owners too often fall into the trap of assuming retail is just about displaying a product and then encouraging stylists to open conversations. In fact, effective retail selling needs to be more sophisticated than this, Alice has argued. “It should be three steps: merchandising, selling and marketing. Introduce marketing and you’ll make it easier for your team to retail,” she advised. Retail displays should be placed on the right hand side of the salon, she recommended. “Retail research reveals most people head to the right as they first enter a shop. We do it unconsciously – it’s probably because most of us are right-handed.” Salons should encourage clients to write online reviews. Creating online step-by-step ‘how to’ guides, offering free gift wrapping or extra loyalty points could all also be valuable.
DEMAND FOR EXPRESS SERVICES IS ON THE RISE CLIENTS ARE INCREASINGLY demanding fast-in/fast-out express services that match their busy working lives, according to NHF members. Whether it’s offering blow-dry bars, express beauty and facial treatments or walk-in beard trimming, salons can capitalise on demand for fast, simple services. What’s more, developing this side of your business can be a valuable way to fast-track your juniors into making a greater contribution to the salon. Giovanni Perri, partner at Elizabeth & Giovanni’s in Kidderminster, said: “We’re offering express services with our juniors to get them motivated. It’s about £10 for a blow-dry.”
SALONS THAT TAKE ON apprentices aged under 25 will, from April 2016, no longer have to pay National Insurance Contributions (NICs) on their earnings, the government has announced. Chancellor George Osborne (pictured, inset) unveiled the move in his Autumn Statement, estimating that removing what he called a “jobs tax on young apprentices” from April 2016 would mean employers of around half a million apprentices would be exempt from paying NICs on earnings. “When a business is giving a young person a chance in life we’re going to support them not tax them,” he said. The move is in addition to the change coming in from this April, whereby employers will no longer have to pay NICs for any employee aged under 21. Both changes are only for employees below what is called the upper earnings limit, in other words those earning less than £805 a week. The change in NICs for under-21s from 6 April means it will become even more important salons hold the correct date of birth of all employees, HMRC has emphasised, something equally vital for ensuring a salon is paying the correct National Minimum Wage. The government will also be extending for another year 100 per cent Small Business Rate Relief (in other words not having to pay any business rates) for firms with properties with a rateable value of less than £6,000. Businesses valued up to £12,000 can get relief on a sliding scale. The relief will now be available until the end of March 2016 rather than coming to an end in March this year. A business rate discount for shops valued at £50,000 or lower will also be increased, to £1,500 from £1,000, from April, the chancellor said.
‘TRAILBLAZER’ STANDARDS GET GO AHEAD THE GOVERNMENT HAS finally agreed to the industry’s plans for new employer-led apprenticeship standards. The standards, covering hairdressing and beauty, were published in December, after the government initially told the industry to go back and take another look at plans it submitted last autumn. These have been hammered out between employers – led by the NHF and the sector skills body Habia – and the government since the summer through the creation of industry ‘trailblazer’ groups covering hair and beauty. The industry, again led by the NHF and Habia, will now work with awarding bodies and training providers to develop a new assessment framework. This will include a practical test carried out by independent examiners to check whether an apprentice is meeting the required standards. Because this next step is relatively complex, and because it will take time for training providers to adjust to the new standards, it is not expected they will go ‘live’ for hair and beauty apprentices before 2015/16. The full standards can be found at nhf.info/nhf-guides
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 26
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CREATIVE HEAD
15/01/2015 12:09
#BusinessEdit
HAVE YOU CAUGHT ‘CANUTITIS’?
LIFE LESSONS
WILL YOUR SALON BE ABLE TO DEAL WITH AN INCOMING TIDE OF HIGHER COSTS, WAGES AND OVERHEADS?
KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 365 MAIN STAGE SPEAKER
27 APRIL 2015
BRUNO MARC GIAMATTEI
I AM A LITTLE CONCERNED that a sizeable proportion of our industry is developing a disease which, if we fail to cure it, could lead to a lot of salons closing. Some might say that is a good thing, and that only the best will survive. But when you think of the massive number of people that our industry employs, I would love to see the disease cured and our industry become fitter and stronger. The disease is, as I like to call it, ‘Canutitis’. Canute was a Danish King of England who died in 1035, but he is best remembered for his legendary failure to prevent the tide from coming in. His servants placed his throne on a beach, where he sat and ordered the tide not to come in, but unsurprisingly it took no notice of him and he had to flee when the water was up to his ears. The tide that I refer to is the tide of higher overheads, higher costs, higher wages and burdensome government legislation. Combine this with the general belief that clients will not pay for excellent service and you have a recipe for disaster. Of course, clients will pay for great service, you only need to look at the number of quality cars on the road and the fact that brands that used to be budget, such as
Skoda and Hyundai, are now commanding prices that match premium competition. How they have achieved that is very simple: their products have got better and, in some cases, are now superior to those of their competition. So, business is straightforward, really. If you want to command a great price for your product – and let’s not mince words, a haircut, highlights and so on are simply products that you need to sell – then the process is simple. Establish a market for your product. Develop a great product and make it as good as the competition and then – and this is the real secret – make it better than the competition. But don’t stop there because the competition will catch you up, so what do you have to do? Make your product even better. And if the competition undercut your prices then make your product worth more. Learn from the masters. Every year BMW and Audi raise their prices but they also improve their specifications. You and I both know that as costs increase your prices have to rise as well, otherwise your margins get smaller and smaller and then, like King Canute, the waves will lap round your ears. So answer this question: “What is your improved spec for 2015?”
WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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MARC ANTONI
Embrace youth. Our industry is forever changing, so listen to your young team members! Their ideas and inspirations will keep you up to date. You’ll never achieve your dream without self belief and the ability to listen. If you don’t believe you are the best, neither will your clients, staff, family or business partners. Encourage people to give you honest feedback and act on it. You’ll never improve or achieve your dream on your own. Hairdressing is a lifelong career – I love it but you have to love who you share it with too. Have respect for everyone’s ideas and beliefs. We have to put a great deal of personal time into this industry, so having a family that supports you is so important. Some of my closest friends are those within the industry; not many jobs allow you to work with true friends.
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#BusinessEdit BUSINESS
barometer
GET AHEAD WITHOUT THE ACHE
RUNNING A BUSINESS can be hugely rewarding, but often the biggest managerial downside are the headaches that employing a team can bring, with staff retention and recruitment cited as the most common (41 per cent), ahead of holidays and absence (24 per cent) and PAYE and VAT (23 per cent). But when you do find a great employee, it’s like unearthing gold. “My longest serving staff member has been with me for 15 years,” says Ian Harrold, director of Attitude Men’s Hair in Liverpool. “Staff only ever leave to start up their own business, move to another town or emigrate.” Indeed, a major worry is investing in a valued team member, for them to leave and take clients with them. Jason Ball, managing director of John Oliver Hair in East Anglia, uses the NHF contract that includes a radius clause and one on poaching clients. “I have only once had to mention it,” he admits, “but the problem is, if staff leave and take clients and we go to court, the damage is usually already done. If I was going to contest a radius clause for example it would take nine months and it would be unlikely I’d get the client back.”
79%
87%
27%
OF SALONS OF SALONS HAVE CARRY OUT REGULAR TEAMBUILDING REGULAR TEAM ACTIVITIES AND MEETINGS EVENTS
OF SALONS PROVIDE STAFF WITH A PENSION
STAFF ARE EMPLOYED AS MANY AS 93 PER CENT OF SALON E, STAFF MEMBERS TEND TO USING A PAYE PAYROLL. ON AVERAG MORE THAN 11 YEARS REMAIN AT THE SAME SALON FOR
DECEMBER 2014 HOW WAS IT FOR YOU? How was business in December compared with November?
How was business in December compared with December 2013?
STEADY
15%
STEADY
22%
GROWING
85%
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GROWING
78%
Top tips DO YOU OWN YOUR CLIENTS? A CONVERSATION I frequently find myself engaged in revolves around stylists leaving a salon and taking clients with them. Often, stylists believe that their clients belong to them, while the salon believes the clients belong to the business. Whatever your stance is, the worry of stylists leaving with clients is a very real one. There are many things you can do to stop your staff accessing the salon’s client data, but quite honestly, in the age of social media it is easier than ever for staff members to contact clients directly. One way you can avoid, or at least minimise, the issue, is to foster a ‘roaming policy’ within the salon, encouraging clients to see different members of staff. Many clients feel awkward if they have to see another stylist, afraid they may upset their regular one. However, if they know the salon has a strong policy encouraging this, it can alleviate all of those worries. I had a conversation recently where one of my good friends mentioned she needed to find a new hairdresser as her usual stylist was going on maternity leave. My friend said it would be less awkward to go somewhere new than risk upsetting her stylist if she preferred her new one! I was surprised, but it this appears to be a common feeling among clients. If we could remove this concern and ensure they felt comfortable moving around our team, we would definitely retain more clients. We should all now rush off to write a roaming policy!
Jessika Carrera Maybury, Head of Premier Salon
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
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YOU HAVE NOTICED for a while now, but have tried to ignore it. You hoped it was just a lucky week or two and things would soon settle down. But there’s no denying it any longer – the salon down the road is getting busier. So just how are they doing it? The answer is Wahanda – Europe’s leading online and mobile booking platform for spa and beauty salons. There’s countless ways to improve your business, but one of the easiest and fastest options is to create a free account at Wahanda.com. Wahanda connects a customer with a salon every 15 seconds. In fact, more than 20 million people a year use Wahanda to book treatments and spa days, with 80 per cent booking a specific date using its real-time availability system.
On average, Wahanda drives a 35 per cent increase in salon revenue
By partnering with Wahanda you can grow your business by: • Gaining more clients by being found in more Google searches. • Filling your quiet times. • Building awareness. • Taking bookings 24/7. • Putting your service menu online – no need to discount. • Contacting your existing clients. • Controlling your pricing. • Reducing no-shows by sending SMS and email reminders. • Finding loyal, local clients – not one-offs looking for a bargain. Wahanda provides you with everything you need to make your salon successful, from marketing your venue and promoting your services to providing an easy-to-use diary management system that helps you to stay in touch with your clients. Sound good to you? Then make 2015 your most successful year yet and sign up for free with Wahanda now.
Get ready for a busy business – sign up for a free account at wahanda.com or email join@wahanda.com 30
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CREATIVE HEAD
15/01/2015 14:54
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION CREATIVE HEAD
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COLOUR
DECOD E D Colour Decoded is all set to crack the colour code, the dynamic duo of Schwarzkopf Professional’s global colour ambassador Lesley Jennison and Head of Education and Events Stephen McDowell are on hand to guide you through all things colour for 2015. With a united passion for colouring Stephen and Lesley are on a mission for all stylists to share their love of colour. This Colour Decoded series, exclusively in Creative HEAD, will take the fear out of colour and inspire you to offer the very best in techniques, trends and advice. With helpful hints and tips from our colour gurus in partnership with Schwarzkopf’s leading trend collections and product innovation, Colour Decoded is guaranteed to arm you with all the information you need to be on trend and deliver every client’s dream colour.
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L O CK IT IN!
Stephen McDowell As head of PPS for Schwarzkopf Professional, Stephen is the creative force responsible for training, inspiring and educating stylists across the UK and Ireland. Lesley Jennison Her radical vision and flair for colour took her from Vidal Sassoon apprenticeship to global recognition and has made her the ‘go to’ name on every celebrity’s lips for unsurpassed colour genius.
13/01/2015 17:02
LOCKING COLOUR INTO THE HAIR HAS NEVER BEEN EASIER… Schwarzkopf Professional can provide you with ultimate products that give the longest lasting colour even on the most porous of hair.
1) H AIR PRIOR TO COLOURING Colouring hair that is in ultimate condition will produce the most stunning of colour results. Lesley’s tip: “ To get the ultimate in hair condition prior to colouring encourage your client to use the best ‘in home care products’”. Using a shampoo, conditioner and/or treatment from the Schwarzkopf BC Repair range with C18 Cuticular Cell Perfector Technology & Amino Cell Rebuild Complex Cortex Cell Perfector. The C18 technology replicates the natural virgin hair and restores the outer surface of the hair, while the Amino Cell Rebuild Complex rebuilds the inside of the hair so the hair is as healthy on the inside as it is on the outside. Now you have the perfect canvas on which to create.
Schwarzkopf Professional recommends the following developers when working with Igora Royal; • 3% (10vol.) for going darker and toning • 6% (20vol.) for colouring on the same depth and 1-2 shades of lift • 9% (30vol.) when 2-3 shades of lift is required • 12% (40vol.) delivers up to 5 levels of lift Lesley’s tip: Developer strengths are crucial in obtaining an accurate result and helping to prolong the life of the colour. Always follow the manufacturer’s measurements and recommendations for colour and developer”.
3) PRODUCT CHOICE Schwarzkopf Igora Royal - The ultimate in permanent hair colour which achieves: • 100% coverage, even on resistant white hair. • 25% more colour vibrancy from fabulous ruby reds and stunning sunset coppers • 50% longer lasting colour • Pure and clean blondes from cool crystals to warm caramels • Warm and cool auburn chocolate shades, even on deeper depths
5) O N-GOING COLOUR TOP UPS FOR BLOW DRY CLIENTS OR HOME USE Lesley’s tip: “ In-between colour appointments Schwarzkopf Igora Expert Mousse is the ideal product to keep every client’s hair looking radiant. A semi-permanent colour that can be applied prior to blow-drying or used by the client at home, Expert Mousse deposits the desired tone into the client’s hair lasting up to 8 shampoos”.
6) COLOUR MAINTENANCE AT HOME
2) A DDITIONAL PROTECTION FOR THE HAIR PRIOR TO THE COLOUR APPLICATION Lesley’s tip: “ Using BC Hairtherapy Power Protector, mist the product lightly over all virgin hair and dry in. This quick and easy process will ensure the natural virgin quality of the hair is protected and preserved”.
If the hair is feeling dry and porous, spritz Schwarzkopf Igora Expert Kit Porosity Balancer through the hair prior to colouring to even out any porous areas and provide optimal colour results.
4) R EFRESHING MID-LENGTHS AND ENDS – GET CREATIVE On hair in excellent condition, Igora Royal mixed with 3% (10vol.) may be taken through to the ends of the hair to refresh and lock in the colour. Lesley’s tip: “ Dual Application – perfect for hair that has lost some tone throughout the lengths”. Apply Igora Royal to the regrowth area as normal. To refresh the mid-lengths and ends, use the same shade in Igora Vibrance (Schwarzkopf’s long lasting demi permanent hair colour). This colour is mixed with 1.9 % developer which replaces maximum tone into the hair giving that “just out of salon“ brilliance and shine.
Lesley’s tip: “ To ensure maximum longevity of every colour application we suggest using a treatment prior to applying the colour, try the BC Power Protector or the Igora Expert Kit Porosity Balancer. To maintain that perfect colour we suggest using the BC Colour Freeze Sulphate Free Shampoo or for coloured hair needing a bit of extra care try the BC Colour Freeze Rich Shampoo, always use a conditioner and/or treatment to really close down the cuticle, locking those colour pigments in the hair. Finally, try the BC Hairtherapy Power Sealer after using the shampoo, conditioner or treatment, as this helps seal those special care ingredients in to the hair, giving on-going protection and shine to the hair”. You see, locking colour in doesn’t need to be a worry. Try out some of our suggestions and have fun creating stunning new looks with longer lasting results.
Lesley & Stephen
xX x
V I S I T U S AT S K P - E L I T E . C O M / C O L O U R - D E C O D E D
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13/01/2015 17:02
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
NEWS
INSPIRATION
RUNWAY
EVENTS
SHOP
COMPETITIONS
We’ve been busy working on a new-look creativeheadmag.com for ages, and we’re pleased as punch to finally share it with one of the greatest inspirations behind it all – YOU NEW LOOK
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There are creative profiles aplenty, fresh cuts from the catwalk, oodles of inspiration for your delectation and all the hottest news on the coolest dates on the hairdressing calendar – The Coterie, Salon Smart, Most Wanted and The It List. Boom! You’re welcome. We think you’re worth it. Just pop on over and take a peek – you won’t regret it, we promise you.
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
INTRODUCING A
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Are you in? Want to be inspired by top talent and gain a world-class education? Get on the list at Schwarzkopf Professional’s all-new membership club, ELITE
Stephen McDowell and Pedro Roche
MOST HAIRDRESSERS WILL tell you they’re a people person. They thrive off the interaction with others and love to share and be inspired by their contemporaries, surrounding themselves with exciting, creative people. Schwarzkopf Professional knows this, which is why it’s putting hairdressing and networking right at the heart of its exciting new initiative, ELITE. Say goodbye to stuffy gentlemen-only clubs, ELITE – which stands for Excellence, Leadership, Inspiration, Talent and Education – is the only thing worth joining this year. Created by Schwarzkopf Professional’s Pedro Roche and Stephen McDowell, ELITE is a platform that thrives on relationships and connections. It aims to meet your needs as a business leader, enabling you to offer your team the chance to truly fulfil their potential and, most
importantly, provide many opportunities for success, laughter and sharing. ELITE’s six pillars of support deliver everything a modern salon business could need, they are: MASTERS – full of opportunities in advanced technical and creative mastery. PERFORMANCE – partner up with experts to step up your business. SUMMIT – inspirational people and places at national and international gatherings. SOCIAL – unashamedly mixing business with pleasure. CONNECT – keeping lines of communication instant and accessible. LINK – you’ll be the first to read all about it in Schwarzkopf Professional’s monthly e-newsletter. So become a member of ELITE today and make sure you’re never left standing on the other side of the ropes again.
“ELITE Club is about boosting business and careers and delivering the kind of information and experiences that make a difference” PEDRO ROCHE, HEAD OF KEY ACCOUNTS FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Discover how the Schwarzkopf Professional’s ELITE club can unlock you and your team’s potential. To become a member, visit skp-elite.com, call 01442 278321 or email skp.eliteclub@henkel.com
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CREATIVE HEAD
14/01/2015 10:27
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION Hair by Tim Scott-Wright CREATIVE HEAD
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TWO DAYS. ALL THIS! Sunday 26 April
16.15 Karen Wharton
14.00 Hotel check-in opens 15.30 Welcome by Creative HEAD publisher, Catherine Handcock 15.40 Abby and Karly Whittaker
Founder and director of Obsession Salon and Spa in Branston and Lichfield, Karen Wharton’s story is one of triumph over adversity. In 2006, a fire destroyed what was then her third salon in Birmingham and a legal battle ensued, resulting in 27 hearings and five trials, a potential £2 million legal bill, and a period of intense instability. Hear Karen’s full account.
16.50 Free time
@creativeheadmag
Chat with Sam Burnett, owner of newly opened salon Hare & Bone, Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon, HOB Salons’ Sean Dawson, salon owner and organic colour advocate Karine Jackson, and the director of 365 Hair, Ken West.
19.30 Three-course dinner with wine
21.00 Showtime with Hooker & Young
18.00 Meet & Mix Sisters Abby and Karly Whittaker run Sarah Hodge Hairdressing, a five-strong familyowned salon group in the South West. Dedicated to delivering a premium service to clients, the pair works hard to maintain a top-notch team, pouring time, money and ingenuity into creating morale- and productivity-boosting initiatives. Hear why keeping it in the family is good for business!
Sip a glass of bubbly and talk shop with creative and business innovators at this scintillating Salon Smart session.
Exclusive creative inspiration and stimulating after-dinner conversation with Gary Hooker and Michael Young.
22.00 And so, to bed (or the bar!)
BOOK NOW 01434 610944 Weekend pass £189 * Day pass £99
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Monday 27 April 09.15 Welcome from Creative HEAD publisher, Catherine Handcock 09.25 Nick Wood
10.10 Laura Caudery
Award-winning director of events venue Fetcham Park, Laura Caudery has harnessed the power of social media and made it an integral part of her business. Look forward to a real insight into how, when and why social media really does its job.
The president of Goldwell and KMS California in the UK and Ireland reveals the smart moves your business should be making in 2015.
10.30 Salon Smart Masterclasses
09.45 Angelo Vallillo
11.25 Ken West
No doubt about it, Angelo Vallillo – partner and creative director at Nottingham’s Zullo & Holland – has guts and gumption in spades. Following a revival of his languishing salon and the opening of a new education academy, business is thriving. Hear how he achieved it all – and a Most Wanted trophy to boot!
Focused workshop sessions delivering money-spinning ideas for the salon.
The director of coaching organisation 365 Hair will reveal how to turn positive client chat into more takings at the till.
California, 365 Hair, American Dream, Diva Professional Styling, Herra, National Hairdressers’ Federation, Maletti and Millennium. Lunch is served!
14.15 Team Talk with Charlie Miller
Sit in on a conversation with joint managing director Josh Miller and international creative and artistic directors Jason and India Miller and enjoy a unique insight into the workings of a Scottish salon super brand.
15:00 Salon Smart Masterclasses The workshops resume!
16.00 Lee Stafford
11.45 Think Tank
Salon Smart’s expert panel solves your real-life business dilemmas in this riveting Q&A session.
12.45 The Working Lunch
Tap into businessboosting innovation from Goldwell, KMS
This Morning, Celebrity Scissorhands, The Secret Millionaire… Lee Stafford is one of hairdressing’s most recognisable faces. He’s also crafted an international product range, opened (and closed) salons, and pioneered a revolutionary new education programme. Get the scoop.
16.30 Close
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YOUR WHOLE BUSINESS PACKAGE ÂŁ189 @creativeheadmag fresh thinking on business #salonsmart15
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
@creativeheadmag
Weekend pass
*
Sunday 26 and Monday 27 April 2015
*Based on two people sharing a twin or double room. Single room supplement of ÂŁ55 applies. Ticket terms and conditions apply; visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/tickets
Your ticket includes: l All main stage sessions l Meet & Mix reception l Three-course dinner with wine l After-dinner hair presentation l Overnight stay (Sunday) with breakfast l Practical workshops l Live Q&A session l The Working Lunch l Prize draw entry l Non-stop networking l Goodie bag Sponsored by
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MONDAY ONLY SCHEDULE £99 Day pass
Monday 27 April 2015
Your ticket includes: l Monday’s main stage sessions l Practical workshops l Live Q&A session l The Working Lunch l Prize draw entry l Non-stop networking l Goodie bag Ticket terms and conditions apply; visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/tickets
26-27 April 2015 Park Plaza Riverbank, London
BOOK NOW 01434 610944
In association with
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BLONDE
IT’S W NEW
#teamblonde
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Ready to wear hair 08/01/2015 14:29
BRUNETTE WAR! With a new Fashionista Violet mask and a whole new Fashionista Brunette range, the gloves are off in the war of the colours.
NEW
Now available for cool blondes and bold brunettes in all Catwalk salons. For more information call 0844 844 0944 www.catwalkbytigi.com /catwalkbytigi
#teambrunette
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SHOW US DON’T FORGET! The deadline for entries is Friday 27 March. To request an entry pack call 0845 601 8128
WHY ENTER?
celess Finalists receive pri press coverage. rtunity to join They also get the oppo stage. on e liv l de their mo mentoring a joy en ers nn wi National ry icon. ust day with a leading ind penses -ex all an Gold winners get the to trip d en ek paid we ion International TrendVis . rlin Award final in Be
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YOUR VISION WANT TO SHOW THE WORLD WHAT YOU’RE MADE OF? THEN ENTER THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD
WHETHER YOU’RE A SALON OWNER looking for a way to motivate, inspire and excite your team, or you’re a stylist or colourist keen to show off your skills on a global scale, the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award offers a truly spectacular platform. The competition takes place over four stages – photographic, regionals, UK & Ireland Final and International Final – and hopefuls can enter one of two categories: Young Talent Category and Color Vision Category. The first stage of the competition is photographic and is open for entries now! The deadline is Friday 27 March and we have compiled a list of top tips from Wella icons and judges to help you make your entry the best it can be…
GET AHEAD WITH OUR INSIDER TIPS CHOOSING YOUR MODEL – Arrange a model call and pick the most appropriate model available, although they don’t have to be a professional. Consider height and dress size as they will be on stage against other models who may be professionals. If choosing a professional model, bear in mind that you can be limited with hair options. The condition of your model’s hair is very important. THE HAIR IS YOUR CANVAS – You must base your look around the person wearing it. If your model doesn’t like the overall look, this will show in their facial expressions. Your colour work should reflect the model’s skin, eyes and face shape. A MOODBOARD WILL HELP YOU COLLATE YOUR IDEAS – Start creating one as soon as you’ve seen the Wella Professionals trends. MAKE YOUR ENTRY UNIQUE – Use the trends as your starting point, but use other sources of inspiration to create your own vision. GET THE MOST FROM YOUR MAKE-UP ARTIST – You may have specific ideas about what you’d like, but be open-minded to suggestions from the make-up artist, too. CHOOSE YOUR COLOUR – Think about suitability. A great colour on the wrong model or haircut could create an average look. Judges will be looking for the cut, colour and style to work in harmony with each other. Make sure you consider all elements of your colour, the background colour focal point
and any special features that you might want to highlight. THE CUT – Make sure it suits the model and is precisely executed and fashionable. STYLING THE LOOK – Work with the hair texture; let the hair talk to you and guide you. Check for balance and synergy. FINISH THE STYLE – This is critical. Whatever you do, the hair must be beautiful and shiny. Don’t overload the hair with too many products. THE COMPLETE LOOK – It must be beautiful. Don’t overcomplicate the look and execute your work to the highest possible standard.
YOUR PHOTO ENTRY
• Professional photos are not necessary • All photos must be 20 x 25cm (8”x10”) • Overuse of Photoshop will result in disqualification. It is permitted to be used to even out skin tone, tidy up clothing or remove errant hairs, but it should not be used to create, enhance or manipulate the hair. • All entrants must submit a before and after photo so the judges can see the transformation. The deadline for all photographic entries is 27 March
Keep up to date with the latest TrendVision Award news @wellapro #tva and facebook.com/WellaUK. To request your Wella Professionals TrendVision Award entry pack, speak to your Wella account manager or contact the Events Team on 0845 601 8128
CREATIVE HEAD
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#LetItRain Free Umbrella with selected electrical products www.cloudninehair.com/behind-the-scenes Stockists call 0845 2003563
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Scene evening WE’RE NOT OFTEN starstruck at Creative HEAD (we’d like to think we’re used to mixing in the highest circles) but when Joanna Lumley walked onto the stage to host the Headmasters Awards, we don’t mind admitting we were a little bit awed. “Long before most of you were born, I was a fashion model,” said the Absolutely Fabulous star. “I spent my life in hair salons. Then I became Purdey [in The New Avengers] and hairdressers loved me because of all the cuts I inspired. And then I was Patsy, darling, and I used more hairspray than any of you.” Hosted at Battersea Evolution and attended by more than 1,000 of the Headmasters team, the night only got bigger and better as the three-course dinner got underway and the award winners were revealed. Once all the victors were announced, attendees enjoyed a variety of entertainment including dodgems, casino tables and, of course, the obligatory dance floor. All in all it was a fabulous night, darling.
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Chairman John Sanders
A PURDEY PERFECT
Headmasters chief executive, Raju Raymond
Joanna Lumley with Emma Freeman
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
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And the winners are… CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC AWARDS 1 Christine Sanders Future Stars winner: Madeline Rooney, Headmasters Brighton 8
2 Men’s Image winner: Nico Bouquet, Headmasters Walton 3 Women’s Image winner: Veronica Ramos-Olivo, Headmasters West Hampstead 4 ghd Creative Award winners: Nicky Draper and Maria Kitipos, Headmasters Kingston CLOSE-UP
BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT AWARDS 5 Most Charitable Salon of the Year: Headmasters Surbiton 6 Retailer of the Year: Alan Luckhurst, Headmasters Richmond 7 Busiest Stylist of the Year: Emily Streek, Headmasters Farnham 8 Management Team of the Year: Headmasters Dorking 9 B.E.S.T Reception Team: Headmasters Wandsworth 10 Salon of the Year: Headmasters Bromley High Street 9
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BREAK FREE The Goldwell Color Zoom Master Team
DON’T BE CONFINED OR SETTLE FOR ANYTHING LESS THAN YOUR DREAMS. ENTER THE GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE NOW AND EXPERIENCE TRUE CREATIVE FREEDOM WHILE ELEVATING YOUR CAREER IN A WHOLE NEW WAY
AMAZING FASHION MEETS STUNNING HAIR – that’s Color Zoom. At its heart is the Color Zoom Collection, designed by the Color Zoom Master Team and the global winners of the Color Zoom Challenge. Each year, the collection inspires stylists from all over the world to enter the Color Zoom Challenge. Why? It’s the only competition around that pushes individuality as much as creativity. The competition aims to discover those ambitious stylists who always seem to know what’s trending the following season and have the talent to create it. This year’s Color Zoom
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Collection, Traditional Rebels, manifests in three distinct directions: Elegant Edge, Style Clash and Reinvented Tribal. Each of the three moods feature monochromatic colours disrupted by bands of deeply saturated and heavily pigmented shades, ranging from warm to cool neutrals. The results are beautiful looks that will inspire your clients and excite your stylists. Have we piqued your interest yet? Then turn over to discover the inspiration behind each of the three moods that make up the Color Zoom Collection and how you can enter the 2015 Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge.
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Hair by the Goldwell Color Zoom Creative Team
#COLORZOOM
CREATIVE HEAD
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START WITH AN IDEA – THEN DECONSTRUCT IT
THE GOLDWELL 2015 COLOR ZOOM COLLECTION, TRADITIONAL REBELS, PUSHES THE LIMITS WITH TRIBAL TWISTS AND UNEXPECTED COLOUR COMBINATIONS – GRAB ELEMENTS FROM EACH TO CREATE YOUR OWN INTERPRETATION THAT COULD SEE YOU TAKE CENTRE STAGE AT THE COLOR ZOOM FINALE IN LAS VEGAS
ELEGANT EDGE
Perfect elegance alone is not enough – take it to the edge and get an exciting new look. It’s the raw, undone element that turns a fashion statement into a great act of self-expression.
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STYLE CLASH
It’s bold, it’s brave and it’s completely unexpected. Let the combination of different styles clash and discover harmony within chaos. Classic looks have never been more intriguing and exciting.
“WORKING ON AN INTERNATIONAL TREND COLLECTION IS FANTASTIC. IT’S GREAT TO SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND SEE YOUR IMAGES IN THE WORLD’S MEDIA”
M NEIL BARTON, 2010 GLOBAL COLOR ZOO M ZOO OR COL THE OF BER MEM WINNER AND MASTER TEAM
REINVENTED TRIBAL
Hairdressing and fashion come together to transcend cultural barriers. Inspired by different cultures, tribal elements hit urban cool areas as references and symbols are added together and reinvented.
TO DISCOVER THE TECHNIQUES AND COLOUR COMBOS BEHIND TRADITIONAL REBELS, VISIT COLORZOOM.COM
#COLORZOOM CREATIVE HEAD
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THE EDGE OF GLORY
YOU’VE BRUSHED UP ON THIS YEAR’S COLOR ZOOM TRADITIONAL REBELS COLLECTION, NOW IT’S TIME TO STEP UP AND SEIZE EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED BY ENTERING THE GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE
YOU COULD BE the next international trendsetter, fact! Each Color Zoom winner is given a place on the Color Zoom Creative Team and plays a vital role in developing the next trend-led collection that will be rolled out globally the following year. Want to have a hand in 2017’s Color Zoom Collection? Then enter the Goldwell 2015 Color Zoom Challenge now. The three categories that you can enter are: • Creative Colorist – for Goldwell stylists who have more than five years of professional experience. • New Talent Colorist – for Goldwell junior stylists who have less than five years of experience. • Partner Colorist – for stylists who have worked for Goldwell as a freelancer, trainer or guest artist.
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY
FEBRUARY Color Zoom
Challenge opens for entries
31 MAY Deadline for entries JUNE: National judging takes place
AUGUST UK Winners
announced at the Color Zoom Summer Party 3-5 OCTOBER UK Winners travel to Global Zoom in Las Vegas to compete at the Color Zoom finale
All you have to do is create your own interpretation of the Traditional Rebels Collection and enter it into the photographic stage of the competition for one of the above categories by 31 May. If you’re a national winner you will have the chance to participate in the grand finale at Global Zoom in Las Vegas, Nevada. And as a global winner you will create the next Color Zoom Collection together with Goldwell.
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R “WINNING COLO STANT ZOOM WAS AN IN AND CAREER BOOST ROUS I CREATED NUME INTERNATIONAL RELATIONSHIPS. IT’S A FANTASTIC OPPORTUNITY”
OM GLOBAL COLOR ZO NEIL BARTON, 2010 R LO CO E TH BER OF WINNER AND MEM ZOOM MASTER TEAM
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
#COLORZOOM
“BEING A GLOBAL FIN ALIST HAS BEEN THE BIGGES T HIGHLIGHT OF MY CA REER SO FAR. IT’S RAISED M Y CONFIDENCE AS A ST YLIST AND HAS ALSO RAISED MY SALON PROFILE” MARK LEESON, INTERNATIONAL COLOR ZOOM JUDGE 2014, REVEALS WHAT HE LOOKS FOR IN A WINNING ENTRY
JESSICA HAY, 2014 GLOB AL UK FINALIST, NEW TALENT CATEGORY
• Think about the total look, not just hair colour and style. If you get to the finals, you will be judged on your entry from head to toe. • When creating your photographic entry, make sure you can bring the look to life again at the live finals. • Choose a model that has the ability to wear the finished look with confidence. • The main thing judges will be looking for is your ability to adapt a trend, but also create individuality within your total look.
DON’T MISS IT! The Color Zoom Challenge deadline is 31 May. Get your Color Zoom Briefing Kit at colorzoom.com
Set yourself free and enter the Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge today. To find out more, call 01323 432100 or visit colorzoom.com CREATIVE HEAD
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“A PLAY OF HISTORY AND HERTIAGE – ELEGANT, RAW AND EDGY.” --
Neil Barton
GOLDWELL COLOR ZOOM MASTER, UK --
traditional rebels Goldwell’s new Hair Fashion Collection BE INSPIRED. Try the new Reconstructed Colors and the Bandeau Technique to create the hottest fashion looks.
www.COLORZOOM.com
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Fall at your feet From the ultra-modern to the breathtakingly decadent, fashion week favourite James Pecis is on form in his new collection for BaByliss PRO PHOTOGRAPHY BY TAKAHITO SASAKI
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READ our exclusive profile with backstage star James Pecis in Runway S/S15 – available on the Creative HEAD App
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HAIR James Pecis for BaByliss PRO using the Titanium Expression range. STYLING Jonathan Ailwood. MAKE-UP Jaimee Thomas GO BEHIND THE SCENES of the shoot and watch James in action, exclusively on our iPad issue
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Dinner with five-star friends
The Most Wanted and It List Grand Final may be the biggest and most exciting night in the Creative HEAD calendar, but the Winners’ SoirÉe is surely the most special – a spectacular gathering of the UK’s most creative, innovative and forward-thinking hairdressers. And that’s official! For the 2014 trophy holders, it was a unique opportunity to kick back together over a laid-back supper in Shoreditch, and to chat about work, life and future plans. All topics were on the table – from women in hairdressing and the virtues (and otherwise) of social media, to the difference between a good stylist and an award-winning one – not to mention Hair Icon and Session Stylist Legend Sam McKnight’s advice to Rising Star Olivia Butt-Freer. The awesome conversation flowed as freely as the bubbly! Will you be receiving an invitation to the 2015 Winners’ Soirée? While the celebrations continue for our reigning stars, the hunt for this year’s champions gets set to commence...
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Want to know what we overheard that night? Head online to creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted and hit the News feed
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As well as learning a whole load from all the talent and industry geniuses sat around the table, it was just a wonderful, fun and relaxing evening, spent in great company
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Andrew Cannon, owner of Ruffians, Most Wanted Best Salon Experience 2014
LAUNCHING
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Most Wanted and The It List – back and open for entry! MW_IT_promo_jan15_v2.indd 3
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TAP IT. SCROLL I SWIPE IT. PLAY I DOWNLOAD THE NEW IPAD ISSUE OF CREATIVE HEAD FREE AND EXCLUSIVE ON THE CREATIVE HEAD APP IPAD EXCLUSIVE
SCROLL DOWN
FIGHT THE POWER FURTHER THE AGENDA WITH THE PROPAGANDA COLLECTION FROM RADIO LONDON
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JC VERONA
VISIT THE APP STORE NOW AND SEARCH ‘CREATIVE HEAD’ 70-71_Digital.indd 2
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L IT. PINCH IT. Y IT. LOVE IT.
AVAILABLE TO DOWNLOAD THIS MONTH – RUNWAY S/S15 FREE AND EXCLUSIVE ON THE CREATIVE HEAD APP
G N I M O C ! N O O S
VISIT THE APP STORE NOW AND SEARCH ‘CREATIVE HEAD’ 70-71_Digital.indd 3
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PROFILE
“I want to leave a legacy. I’m in this to make a difference, to create a revolution…” Once the bad boy of British hairdressing, Lee Stafford reveals his new mission – to educate tomorrow’s talent and create ‘Michelin-starred’ stylists – but is it a recipe for success? BRIGHT PINK BOTTLES adorned with a silver staffie dog, Oasis-esque swagger, The Secret Millionaire, Celebrity Scissorhands, Hello magazine spreads… Lee Stafford is a tour de force in British hairdressing and a celebrity in his own right. He’s the archetypal bad boy made good, with stratospheric highs and bitter lows across an incredible career that spans more than 30 years. Now, a father and happily married, he has committed himself to a new passion: revolutionising hairdressing education. This is Lee Stafford 2.0. About two years ago, Lee unveiled the first Lee Stafford Academy, at Chelmsford College in his home county of Essex. In partnership with education consultancy Tenon Education Training and Skills, he wants his academy programme to help drive large numbers of learners, to offer consistent training and to redesign the curriculum to reflect modern commercial salons. The facilities are impressive and the training is innovative and ambitious. But why, when he could be kicking back and enjoying the
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fruits of his labour, did he feel the need to introduce a new model of education? It’s all the more interesting when you consider Lee’s own start in hairdressing – facing a long commute from Essex to a West End salon that was swallowing up his wages, Lee left with no formal hairdressing qualification (he was also expelled from school at 15) and set up shop in his mum’s dining room, where he built up a loyal clientele over six years. At the age of 22, he made the decision to open a salon and threw himself into every course and Sassoon seminar he could attend – and during which time he was exposed to the vast differences in the ways companies educate. Everything he learnt he took back and shared with his staff. “When I first got into hairdressing I would attend as many seminars as I possibly could and I was always the guy down the front asking 1,000 questions,” he recalls. “I didn’t get any education at school – I loved it, but I was too busy chasing birds and playing football. When I left, everything was relevant to me – hair, management, motivation – I just became an addict.” But he could see that there was a chasm between training and the day-to-day needs of a salon business. He hated all that he had heard from his staff about what they were taught at college, with many of them finishing their courses yet still lacking so much practical knowledge and skills. “When I started researching the public side to education, I found a massive flaw that I knew we could easily fix. So I’ve been setting up the systems that I believe are revolutionising the public side of education.” This revolution of his is all based on eggs – just hear him out… “Imagine you’re going to college to learn how to be a chef. There are certain recipes on the curriculum as standard, and one of them is how to cook an omelette. The problem with the current system is that all these trainers and colleges have their own ways to cook one, 100 different ways to cook an omelette that’s not very good,” he explains. “No wonder kids can’t get jobs when they’ve left college. I’m not saying that trainers at the colleges aren’t any good – the problem is they are all using different recipes, there’s no consistency. Nobody had given the trainers the time and training they need so they can all sing from the same hymn sheet. Imagine if all the trainers in all the colleges were working together and helping one another on the same quick and effective Michelin-starred omelette.” Welcome then, Lee Stafford Education. “Our philosophy is simple – we don’t want to show you 100 ways to cook an average omelette, we want to show you one Michelin-starred way,” he says. “The rules of Lee Stafford Education are simple – follow the rules of our recipes until you can perfect it, then break every rule in the book. When technique becomes second nature, that’s when creativity can come through.” For him, that essential book of everyday ‘recipes’ is key. There are 26 in total, with coaching on both NVQ2 and NVQ3 levels. “I’m not saying I’m the best but I’ve worked with the best, and I strive to be the best. For example pre-sectioning is everything to creating a great result,” he explains. “Some hairdressers pick up hair willy-nilly and cut it. You’re never going to create something great like that – you’ll please Auntie Jane perhaps – but these young kids are sectioning hair like architects. You know that’s the foundation of something great. And we’ve devised our recipes so that they’re so simple, just
This image and above: Lee Stafford Academy, Chelmsford College
#LeeStafford
HEAR MORE about the life and times of a true hairdressing icon! See Lee Stafford at Salon Smart 2015
like a food recipe would be, so you get a great result. You can’t argue with that.” There are three academies up and running and he’s speaking to 10 more colleges. The Lee Stafford method might just be the answer to so many salon managers’ woes, with countless complaints of the current skills levels of college graduates. However, those salon managers need to play their part, too. “I’ve never had a problem getting trainees in my Staffords salons because we had a reputation for training and it was fierce in my area,” adds Lee. “I hear people complaining that young people aren’t like they used to be, but in my salon, they were bashing my door down, hugely motivated – and if they weren’t, they left,” he says matter-of-factly. “I had a great young workforce, and I believe it’s all down to training. If you put that amount of energy into education, you’ll create the desire for young people to want to come and work for MAIN STAGE SPEAKER you. If you don’t do that, then guess what? They won’t be knocking down your door…”
27 APRIL 2015
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THE UNISEX QUESTION SALON CONCEPT
PINK IS FOR GIRLS, BLUE IS FOR BOYS – AND SLEEK MONOCHROME HAS TRADITIONALLY BEEN THE UNISEX ANSWER FOR SALONS LOOKING TO APPEAL TO BOTH. BUT WITH THE RESURGENCE IN BARBERS AND THE TREND FOR PERSONALISATION, CAN A ‘UNISEX’ APPROACH TRULY PLEASE EVERYONE?
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A REVOLUTIONARY SALON CONCEPT
BUILDING BUSINESS TOGETHER The I.C.O.N. concept is to add value to each of our partner salons. The aim is for clients to be taken on a journey and to experience the ultimate in service standards from their salon. I.C.O.N.’s goal is to increase individual salon revenue by 30% within the first 12 months by working as part of the salon team to educate, motivate and inspire stylists. With this unique method, we can increase salon retail sales from an average of 5% of turnover to 15%.
For more information contact louise.jenkins@icon-concept.co.uk or call 0113 278 1292 WWW.ICON-CONCEPT.CO.UK
Stag Barber Co
Pierre Alexandre (and above)
#Unisex
FIRST COINED IN THE ’60s, the term ‘unisex’ started becoming common when the likes of Pierre Alexandre in Manchester started launching salons for both genders. “I opened my first salon for women in March 1965,” says salon owner Pierre. “Many of my clients’ husbands wanted me to cut their hair, which I did, and we soon had female clients complaining that they did not want to sit next to a man. But by the late ’60s everything changed; people rebelled from what had been traditionally accepted and by the end of 1966 I suddenly thought ‘why separate the men from the women?’” By the early ’90s, national chains such as Rush, Headmasters and Toni&Guy, were also creating salon spaces designed to appeal to all. “At Headmasters, we don’t want to alienate so we intentionally keep branding and salons unisex with the focus on giving fashionable, confidence boosting-hair,” says Tim Binnington, commercial director at Headmasters. However, the turn of century saw the rise of the ‘metrosexual’ male and as a result an embrace of gender-specific spaces coupled with a male desire for luxurious services. “I opened my barbershop because not only do I feel unisex salons and their stylists aren’t trained in how to utilise popular and effective barbering techniques, men don’t always feel comfortable at unisex salons as they tend to be more directed at women and they want a place of their own,” says Sheriff Mehmet, director of Envy Barbers. Murray McRae, owner of Stag Barber Co in
Edinburgh, agrees: “The general consensus among clients is that they feel more comfortable in a male-oriented enivronment.” With so many hair products, trend forecasts and collections now tailored just for men, you’d be forgiven for thinking the unisex salon was long past its sell-by date. But Bruno Marc Giamattei, creative director at Marc Antoni salons, argues that by focusing on just one group, you risk alienating everyone else. “It’s important to offer services and products that appeal to every type of customer,” he says. “From a male perspective, the hairdressing salon is no longer the alien place it once was as personal grooming becomes more commonplace for men,” says Albert Ewan, owner of salon furniture design company, Albert Ewan Design. “A salon can be a shared destination – home to the needs of males and females equally.” “All Headmasters salons have neutral colours and a contemporary aesthetic to create a tranquil atmosphere that appeals to both men and women,” explains Tim Binnington. The salon also makes sure men and women can identify with branding. But while remaining neutral works well, Headromance salon in Hampshire believes you can create a different environment. “We had a unisex salon in mind when we designed the space two years ago,” says director Emily Warne. “We went for an eclectic industrial vibe, where both men and women would feel comfortable. We find male clients are the ones who comment most on our ‘cool’ interior.”
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Emily also doesn’t feel it’s necessary to separate services as she feels that makes some services feel “unavailable to others”. “For example, if we only had thinning hair services for men, we’d be alienating a host of women who suffer from thinning hair as well,” she explains. Thinning hair is a service that crosses the gender divide and is the one that unisex salons can embrace as a way of offering both sexes solutions. Brands such as Nioxin, Aveda’s Invati and L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serioxyl all specialise in hair thinning and are popular with both male and female clients. George Phouli, operations director at Rush Hair, agrees: “You can confuse the market and the consumer by over-complicating services. Traditionally the woman comes to the salon for a cut and colour, but today gender roles are more loosely defined and we are seeing an increase in men visiting the salon for colour services – an opportunity that all salons should be maximising.” So as men feel more comfortable enjoying services previously considered to be for women, perhaps separate spaces aren’t necessary? Westrow in Yorkshire found this when it opened a high-end gent’s salon about 20 years ago. “We found men preferred a more informal salon environment not totally geared towards them,” says director Steve Rowbottom. The group now has a range of services across its salons that appeal to men and women. Paul Simbler, director of HOB Salons, adds: “There is room for both unisex and specific salons in the hair world today. They cater to different types of clients.”
Headmasters in association with MITCH
Headmasters 2015 collection
Barrie Stephen Hair
#Unisex
Darren Messias, owner of KH Hair in the East Midlands, says he is seeing younger men opt for barber services, while older males with higher disposable incomes are going to unisex salons. “Most of our barber clients wouldn’t dream of stepping foot into one of our unisex salons; they are seeking not only the bespoke services of a barber, but also an environment that’s just for them,” he explains. So what can unisex salons do to try and grab back some of the clients that may have gone to high-end barbershops? Leicester salon owner Barrie Stephen recently launched a men’s room at his Barrie Stephen Hair unisex salon, complete with reclining red snakeskin leather chairs and a fully stocked fridge of beer. While the main salon still offers a full men’s service, the zone provides express, informal treatments, helping capture a different part of the market. Headmasters is also tapping into this group. “We introduced our first ever men’s collection last September, in conjunction with MITCH products, and this increased our male footfall by nearly 500 clients in just two months,” says Headmasters’ Tim Binnington. So, high-end barbershops continue to pop-up nationwide, but this isn’t necessarily a bad thing for unisex salons. Instead, maybe it’s an opportunity for these salons to prove to clients that they really can be all things to all people.
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How to smooth, how to curl, how to add! Salons are boosting revenue through tools, products and services that give clients the hair they want, not the hair they’ve got THE PHRASE ‘FAKE IT UNTIL YOU MAKE IT’ has long been a favourite of ours and it seems to be catching on as salons see an increase in clients looking for immediate solutions to everything from lank locks and full-blown frizz to uncontrollable curls. And it seems whatever your client desires, there’s a product or service for them. “A client achieving the hair they want, not the hair they’ve got, is paramount,” says Neil Atkinson, senior creative director at Mahogany Hairdressing in Oxford and London. “We want to maximise that client’s hair potential.” Mel Tudor, owner of En Route, Wakefield, decided to create a hair spa within the salon to help her clients achieve the hair they want. “It’s where we offer all the additional hair treatments, such as the Schwarzkopf Professional express treatments,” she says. While En Route makes most of its money through treatments, there are other add-ons salons can utilise, such as extensions. After shedding their slightly tacky reputation, extensions are now synonymous with A-listers and glorious-looking hair. “I think clients are looking at this service not only for length, but
also to provide fuller, more versatile hair,” says Lesley Charles, salon director of Hooker & Young Darlington. For salons interested in adding an extensions service, it’s best to either hire someone fully trained or send one person on a training course initially, advises Richard Phillipart, It List It Guy 2014 and owner of The Boutique Salon & Spa in Cheshire. “I decided to appoint an American Dream extensions expert,” he says. “Although you can teach anyone to apply extensions; a dedicated specialist can provide a superior service.” Victoria Lynch, founder of Remi Cachet extensions, advises finding out “what other stylists’ feedback about the brand is and what level of support you will get”. Raphelle Saint-Marshall, an extensions specialist for Matthew Curtis Hair Design, chose to invest in Great Lengths extensions. “They are the most natural and reliable extensions I have come across,” he explains. “For a transformation in just 30 minutes, I use Beauty Works Hair Extensions, they create thick, luxurious hair,” says Jack Howard of Jack Howard at Paul Edmonds in London.
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To smooth or not to smooth? Just as you think you’re on top of the straight trend, your clients do a U-turn right and want curls, curls, curls! So, which is right for your salon? “Clients prefer to maintain their natural body nowadays,” says John Paul Wyndham, owner of Wyndham Hair in Essex. “Clients with unmanageable hair are turning to taming treatments to cut their overall styling time.” Cue a slew of keratin smoothing services for salons to offer, such as Kerasilk by Goldwell, the first customisable keratin treatment service that lasts up to five months. At Clay Hair Salon and Spa in Surrey, 30 per cent of clientele receive smoothing
treatments and it’s increasing all the time, according to frontof-house manager, Jo Berry. “The vast majority of our clients will add blow-drys and keratin services to their treatments,” she says. KeraStraight has developed KS Ultimate, a formaldehydefree semi-permanent straightening and repair system, as another way of attracting new clients. “KeraStraight has been in our salons for more than eight months and the effect of this service on our sales has been amazing,” says Charles Dodd, coowner of Cutting Room Creative in Leeds. In a bid to give clients the hair they want, M Hair salon in Nottingham took on the India range from newly launched salon concept, I.C.O.N. “India 24K is a smoothing miracle in a tub,” says owner James Henderson.
The tools behind it all Electrical tools have grown in stature over the years, mainly due to the consumer becoming much more style-savvy. “Clients have realised the potential of using the tools that hairdressers use everyday, such as tongs, hairdryers and heated rollers, and product manufacturers are making them more accessible to the consumer,” says Steve Rowbottom, director of Westrow salons in Yorkshire. At the Sally Montague Hair Group in Derbyshire, Cloud Nine is the chosen manufacturer for electrical hair tools. “The Cloud Nine Waving Wand is my favourite for creating cool, tousled waves. It’s our best-selling electrical item across our six salons,” says owner Sally Montague. Cloud Nine also runs Salon Sessions, which sees Cloud Nine UK creative ambassador, Angel Montague-Sayers, visiting salons to educate stylists on how to create the latest trends for clients using the Cloud Nine range of tools, adding value for clients as salons can offer this as a top-up styling service. And if you needed further proof that straight was out and curls are in, straightening brand ghd launched four curling tools last year. The curve range is designed to give clients 24-hour curls, from beachy, relaxed waves to full-on glamour. BaByliss PRO’s Perfect Curl is another bestseller as clients love the automated curler, which does all the hard work for them, as is Diva’s Beach Curls Wand. With its bobbles and dips, clients can easily create loose, random waves.
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Taking it all back home
HOW BENEFICIAL ARE MULTI-PURPOSE PRODUCTS? FROM REDKEN’S Colour Extend Radiant 10 to Sexy Hair’s Soya Want It All, the rise in products that claim to fulfil all of your client’s styling desires in one bottle is making waves in retail. As more and more brands launch these multi-benefit products, we ask: are they a boon to the industry or do they have a negative impact on the sales of additional products in salons? Gary Taylor, from Edward & Co, has found that stocking Clynol Wonder 10 has helped target clients who weren’t previously buying their hair care in-salon. “Giving the client the ability to purchase a product that tackles the top 10 things women want for their hair made a huge difference. After targeting those clients who did not purchase products from us, we began to see a boost in sales,” explains Gary. “As a result, the percentage of non-purchasing clients dropped and after a time these same clients began to be interested in shampoos and conditioners.”
This page and previous, images courtesy of Hooker & Young
As stylists get savvy in the salon, those really setting themselves apart are the ones offering clients that much-yearned-for dream: to get the look at home. “Textured looks continue to dominate in our salons and helping clients achieve this look using the latest techniques is critical, as is maximising the use of products, which are launching all the time,” says Darren Messias, owner of KH Hair in the East Midlands. Fortunately, as every good stylist knows, the more natural we want the end look to appear, the more work it takes, giving salons the perfect opportunity to upsell its retail. “To create a naturallooking beach hair textured wave style, we use conical wands and the Wella Professionals Texture Maker,” says Darren. Texture is a long way off from falling out of favour with clients, so now is the ideal time to change-up your retail shelves to push the products that will give them that undone, dishevelled look they love so much. Unite Texturiza spray is one of Pearson Clark Hairdressing’s top sellers. “Clients love it because it’s a finishing spray that gives hair extra volume,” says Natasha Pearson, owner of the Essex-based salon. So, whether you choose to go for treatments, extensions, tools or products (or all of the above!), there’s no reason why you can’t give your clients the hair they want, right now.
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A woman of substance Saks pays homage to hair heroines from across the decades – Brigitte Bardot, Marilyn Monroe, Twiggy and Jackie O – in its Iconic collection PHOTOGRAPHY BY ZAC FRACKELTON CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Alison Dace and the Saks Art Team. STYLING Candice Bailey. MAKE-UP Lan Nguyen-Grealis.
LINE OF 90
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VISION
INTRICATE STYLING WITH PLAYFUL TOUCHES USING THREAD AND BAMBOO ILLUSTRATE THE EXCEPTIONAL SKILL OF JOHANNA CREE BROWN FROM TREVOR SORBIE, AS SHE FINDS INSPIRATION IN THE ANCIENT AND MODERN PHOTOGRAPHY BY OLI KEARON
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HAIR Johanna Cree Brown, assisted by Hanna Lee Pledger. COLOUR Fanoulla Demetriou. STYLING Kieran Partise. MAKE-UP Marina Keri. NAILS Sabrina Gayle at LMC Worldwide. With thanks to Wai Yin Mok, Travis Gavin and Sarah Begley at Trevor Sorbie
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CAPTURING AN EFFORTLESS BEAUTY, THE OPULENCE COLLECTION FROM TRACEY DEVINE FOR AFFINAGE IS RICH IN WINTRY TONES
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STRIKE IT RICH
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HAIR Tracey Devine for Affinage. STYLING Desiree Lederer. MAKE-UP Maddie Austin
LAST WORD
A SLICE OF LUXURY IF YOU’RE SERIOUS ABOUT GROWING YOUR COLOUR CLIENTELE, YOU MUST DELIVER THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE, ARGUES JOSH WOOD
AS COLOUR IS MY PASSION, driving colour in my Atelier is of paramount importance. I see my clients want more choice, for example, I have seen the organic segment boom, and in fact it’s grown by 18 per cent. More people want products that are ‘free-from’. With the luxury beauty market growing by seven per cent and six out of 10 women agreeing it’s worth paying extra for better quality hair colour the time is now for salons to act and do it quickly. The ability to find information at a touch of the fingertips means clients are more educated than ever before so its the ideal time to ensure you are able to offer services that answer that need. A survey carried out by Wella Professionals found that three out of four women said they were more likely to return to hairdressers who offer premium colour services. However, only one out of five clients regularly received bespoke blended colour. The study revealed more than one in five consider their hair colour the most important investment in their appearance and for 45 per cent, having perfect hair every day is more important than owning luxury items such as a designer gown. It’s clear from what we see in fashion that personalised products are everywhere, from Burberry’s monogrammed shawls to Apple’s iPod engravings. However, limited availability and high price tags mean that for the vast majority of women, this is not a feasible option for everyday life. With the launch of Couture Colour from Wella Professionals, it is possible for clients to indulge in a slice of the couture lifestyle every day. I need to react to these wide sweeping trends in my business to stay on top of where the industry is going, which means I can capitalise on new services. I’ve been working with Wella on the launch of its Couture Colour Services. The Couture Colour consultation materials from Wella Professionals provide colourists with the tools to enable them to create amazing results while driving loyalty and encouraging WANT clients to upgrade their services. TO WIN... By upgrading your client experience you can make ...an exclusive day with Josh Wood? Wella clients feel valued and then they’ll be more likely to fessionals is offering 10 Pro want to spend – increasing your colour business. visit his colourists the chance to and Atelier and get up close el pan a and him with al person Josh Wood is Wella Professionals global creative experts. For more, email of director for colour, owner of the Atelier and co-founder wellacomms.im@ of Cheeky Hair by Josh Wood pg.com 98
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MIRACLES DO HAPPEN How has Schwarzkopf Professional created a miracle? It’s launched the world’s first silicone-free oil mists that promise to evaporate 50 per cent faster than other oil products. Meet the new BC Oil Miracle Mists OILS MAY NOT be the newest kids on the block but they’re definitely here to stay – recent research revealed that fans of oils are now looking for a more targeted approach that better suits their needs. Clients want oil that provides glamorous shine but doesn’t weigh hair down – exactly what the new BC Oil Miracle Mists by Schwarzkopf Professional can offer. Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Oil Miracle Mist with marula oil for fine hair and BC Oil Miracle Mist with argan oil for thick hair are silicone-free, ultra-light and fast drying, pampering the hair without weighing it down – even on the finest hair! Just a touch of BC Oil Miracle Mist is enough to instantly
transform dry, dull hair and give it a soft, shiny and healthy-looking shine. The secret behind the new BC Oil Miracle Mists lies in their formulations, specifically the Micro-Dispersion Technology, which provides an ultra-fine distribution of oil throughout the hair – for great, weightless shine and an instant dry hair feeling! The BC Oil Miracle Mists join Schwarzkopf Professional’s already fantastic range of hair oils, including BC Oil Miracle Barbary Fig Oil & Keratin for dry and brittle hair and BC Oil Miracle Rose Oil for stressed hair and scalp. The whole range by Schwarzkopf Professional allows you to pamper clients with fine oils that can be combined to meet their every need.
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