£4.50 FEBRUARY 2014
In print ● online ● everywhere!
FEBRUARY 2014 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Beyond reality Whatever their hearts’ desire, deliver and delight
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Colour reborn It’s time for a new dawn in colour. Clients expect outstanding colour performance, without compromising their health and wellbeing, so get ready for the age of INNOSENSE from Koleston Perfect by Wella Professionals
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Meet ME+, a revolutionary new dye molecule that offers a reduced risk of developing allergy* but with full colour performance – and the breakthrough technology in Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE by Wella Professionals We are all becoming increasingly concerned about colour technology breakthrough: ME+. Koleston Perfect the environment and what we use on our hair and skin. INNOSENSE is the first professional hair colour brand And this is especially true when it comes to colour. that’s been formulated with ME+. This breakthrough When getting a colour technology still contains service, allergies and the molecule part sensitivities are in a client’s responsible for colour top three concerns. vibrancy, longevity and It was this trend towards coverage, but has a better alternatives that led modified shape, reducing Wella scientists to start the risk of developing researching a solution. allergy.* It really is that Wella Professionals simple! In fact, it’s so wanted to be able to provide simple, it’s brilliant! Josh Wood, Wella Professionals a premium colour service “ME+ represents an global creative director for colour to its ingredients-conscious important step in reducing clients, but that would also risk of developing allergy* offer them a reduced risk of developing in hair colour formulation and a significant milestone in allergy.* After two decades, Wella Professionals has had its haircare,” explains dermatologist Dr Bianca Piraccini.
“Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE offers the same perfect results clients would expect from Wella Professionals, but with a reduced risk of developing allergy*”
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*Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. An allergy alert test must always be performed 48 hours before each colouration. ME+ is present in Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE brand. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult wella.com/innosense
It’s all about me…
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Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE is the ideal way to increase your colour business We’re used to making conscious choices about our lifestyle, and our health and wellbeing. So why should a client’s hair colour be decided upon any differently? With Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE, you can now offer your allergy and ingredient-conscious clients vibrant permanent colour that’s been specially formulated to reduce the risk of developing allergy* without compromising on performance. The Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE client is interested
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in the ingredients behind what they use, as well as taking an active interest in the latest innovations and techniques. After all, if it’s a new colour client, they want to make sure their colourist is using the most advanced technology out there at the moment. This client is willing to pay more for a service that meets their beauty ideals, which is why Wella Professionals recommends that you charge 15 per cent more for these services than your standard permanent colour service.**
*Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. An allergy alert test must always be performed 48 hours before each colouration. ME+ is present in Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE brand. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult wella.com/innosense. **Pricing is at the discretion of the salon
A conscious colour choice
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Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE by Wella Professionals – an industry breakthrough in permanent colour that Wella Professionals scientists have worked on for 20 years
Discover a new age with Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE. For more details, contact your Wella Professionals account manager, call 01202 595700 (UK), 01 416 0900 (Ireland) or visit wella.com
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Introducing
NEW Thickening Collection Instantly Thicker • Healthier Looking • Longer Lasting Body
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New label.m Thickening Collection for more beautiful, voluminous hair Designed to energise flat, fine and lacklustre hair, label.m – Official Haircare Product of London Fashion Week launches its latest addition to the 4C’s system – the label.m Thickening Collection. Created to enhance the overall thickness, density and abundance of hair, the range comprises four specific products with formulations which visibly aids weightless styling control with volume and lift from the very first use. As a key feature, the new label.m Thickening Shampoo and Conditioner are formulated with the exclusive NRG Complex – an intense combination of Framboise Stem Cells, Kona Red Coffee Berries and Qmilch Fibre ingredients plus Collagen and Elastin boosting properties designed to hydrate, nourish and strengthen hair to promote thickness whilst ensuring antioxidant protection. Optimal results are made possible with the Time Release Volume Delivery Shuttle – the technology created with Rose Stem Cells, with its ability to target where ingredients need to be ‘shuttled’ direct to the inner cortex and finer medulla layers in thinner hair textures. With continued use, the look of volume and lift is immediately improved, so that the results of styling are longer lasting in between shampooing and conditioning.
“
Sacha Mascolo-Tarbuck, Global Creative Director, says
Thicker, fuller hair has always been an issue close to my heart. To help create healthy looking locks, weightless volume and lift are key. This latest prescriptive range from label.m helps to add volume from root-to-tip and instantly gives visible thickness to any hair type whilst nourishing and protecting hair from damage.
”
Created by hairdressers for hairdressers To become part of the label.m success story, call 0870 770 8080 www.labelm.com
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/labelmUK
@ labelmUK
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14/01/2014 17:37
Editor’s letter
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hello...
JOIN US!
HUMANS ARE RARELY KNOWN for being satisfied with their lot in life; we want more, better, faster everything, and will often pay a premium to get our hands on whatever it is we feel is missing. Sometimes these desires are pure vanity – we want longer hair and we want it now! While for others, it’s a case of confidence, such as a need to boost hair that’s thinning or shedding, stealing with it a sense of self that can truly upset a client’s equilibrium. From behind the chair, you have extraordinary powers to build up their morale again, or to simply make your customer feel incredible by giving them what Mother Nature failed to. From extensions to texture services and hair thinning solutions, we ask the experts how salons can satisfy client cravings while boosting business, too. Never underestimate what a profound impact your expertise and skill can have on that resident in your chair, and take pride in every smile you see reflected back at you!
Amanda Nottage Editor
amanda@headmag.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine 6
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Got your Salon Smart tickets yet? Our two-day businessnetworking event returns to London on 27 and 28 April with a stellar lineup of speakers. From industry great Daniel Galvin OBE to X Factor’s go-to hair guru, Jamie Stevens, a throng of hair heroes will be sharing first-hand their success stories on the Salon Smart stage. Look forward to bite-sized seminars, live Q&A sessions, interactive workshops, a buzzing working lunch – and more, for only £189 per person, including overnight four-star accommodation. See the full programme from page 86, visit creativeheadmag.com/ salonsmart for ticket information, and call 01434 610944 to book. Do it now!
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February
WHAT’S INSIDE 82
VISION QUEST
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In print ● online ● everywhere! £4.50 FEBRUARY 2014
Jonathan De Francesco shares his award-winning vision
Beyond reality
DANIEL GALVIN We talk to the man behind the luxury brand and his plans for the future
Whatever their hearts’ desire, deliver and delight
ON THE COVER
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Hair by Wella Professionals using Koleston Perfect INNOSENSE
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YOU CAN’T ALWAYS GET WHAT YOU WANT... ...But salon services can help Mother Nature along!
EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
ADVERTISING MANAGER STEVE GOOD
DEPUTY EDITOR BETH DAVIE
ONLINE EDITOR AMY WOOD
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE DAVID HAMMOND
ART DIRECTOR NICK JABBAL
EDITORIAL INTERN YASMIN PLANCHON
PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ART GRAEME WHITE
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN
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Creative HEAD Magazine
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk
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‘I would never go back to the hassle and expense of laundering cotton towels when all I need to do is pick up a beautifully folded Easydry, confident it works better than a scruffy old cotton towel ever could. I use them in my new academy, in the salon, for backstage work and in my Sebastian seminars.’ Angelo Vallillo, Zullo & Holland Eastern Hairdresser of the Year ‘I love Easydry. It ticks all the boxes for salon owners. The pioneering disposable towels are eco-friendly, super hygienic, absorbent and beautiful. I tested everything on the market, and Easydry has gone much further than any other company in seeking out the greenest, most sustainable suppliers. In the end it was the only brand I felt I could trust.’ Anne Veck, Anne Veck Hair
Order now: 0845 300 7764
‘Offering clients a luxurious new Easydry towel every visit shows how much we value them. Comfort, hygiene and sustainability are crucial to the client experience. You simply can’t compromise with second best or outdated systems.’
Michelle Rooney, Hooker & Young North Eastern Hairdresser of the Year
info@easydry.com A
INNOVATION
www.easydry.com
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
‘WINTER BLUES’ CAUSES SALONS TO SUFFER
LOND ON COLL ECTIO NS: MEN
The leading men… LONG HAIR, CURTAINS AND CURLS are among the A/W14 trends coming out of London Collections: Men, the seasonal fashion showcase. Astrid Andersen brought long and flowing locks, where the Bumble and bumble team, led by Mari Ohashi, created long, clean hair with slight separation at the ends – natural and not too ‘done’ is key. Another ’90s comeback is curtains – Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel at the JW Anderson show, gave this look a modern, public schoolboy twist by flattening down the sides and twisting backwards to create a slightly slept-in feel. Following on from last season’s
glitterfest at the Christopher Shannon show, Fudge outdid itself by creating Lego heads for James Long. Fudge creative director John Vial covered models’ heads in clingfilm, before colouring it in navy. Other favourite looks included ruffled, playful curls created for the Xander Zhou show by Sassoon and the ‘70s volumised David Bowie ‘do for Baartmans and Siegel. Josh Gibson, Sassoon team leader, wanted the hair for the Xander Zhou show to exude a feeling of elegance and demeanour (which he nailed), while the ’70s look for Baartmans and Siegel, by the Toni&Guy Session Team, featured combed-back sides and a flicked-out finish.
Images courtesy of Bumble and bumble, Fudge, Sassoon, Toni&Guy, with JW Anderson image by Eeva Rine for L’Oréal Professionnel
ONE IN FIVE UK workers will take time off this year as a result of the ‘winter blues’, losing valuable manpower, new research has revealed. The report, carried out by Opinium on behalf of electronics firm Epson, found that on average, those employees calling in sick will have a total of four days off due to the winter weather. Fifty-nine per cent said that it led to them suffering ‘decreased levels of motivation,’ and 52 per cent said that the bad weather made them more likely to feel ill. Barrie Stephen, owner of Most Wanted BEST LOCAL SALON 2013 Barrie Stephen Hair, said: “A team member who frequently takes time off leads to cancelled appointments, puts pressure on other team members, causes disgruntled clients and can damage your reputation.” So how can salons combat this and start 2014 the right way? The research revealed that a third of survey respondents believed better lighting in the workplace could help, as well as more face-to-face communication with staff members, exercise and more greenery in the workplace. Barrie, who runs a fitness programme for staff in his salons, added: “From a business perspective, now is the time to get ahead and start 2014 in the best possible way – losing valuable manpower because of winter weather is not an option.” CATCH IT See all the trend reports from London Collections: Men creativeheadmag.com
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FO OD FO R TH OU GH T
NEW FACES FOR JOICO
Appetite for design ESSEX SALON OWNER Ian Marshall’s imagination was fed by dinner at Smith’s of Smithfield – not by what was on his plate, but by his surroundings. And so the interiors of new salon Spargo, which stocks products from Schwarzkopf Professional, boasts the use of plenty of raw materials, such as exposed brickwork and pale timber, that have an industrial edge in keeping with the cool vibe of the London eatery. However, Ian has ensured that the space remains warm and welcoming too, with oodles of floral arrangements and some grand chandeliers. Clients will no doubt find it a tasty offering…
The Joico European Design Team has three new members (pictured above, clockwise from left): Jason Welch, one of the four founders of Eleven Hair in London; Susanne Krapf, owner of Schnitstelle salon in Frankfurt, Germany; and Erik Eppinger, a national Joico trainer for Germany.
WELLA PROMISES COLOUR BREAKTHROUGH ‘INNOVATION’ IS A word that gets bandied about a lot in the hair industry, but Wella Professionals has created something that it claims will change the hair colour industry. ME+ is a new dye molecule that is formulated to reduce the risk of allergy without sacrificing on colour performance. It’s put the molecule into Koleston Perfect Innosense by Wella Professionals and it’s targeted at ingredients-conscious clients. Dermatologist Dr Bianca Piraccini, from the University of Bologna in Italy, said: “ME+ represents an important step in reducing risk of developing allergy in hair colour formulation and a significant milestone in haircare.” The breakthrough follows Wella Professionals’ Illumina Color in 2012, which features superior light reflection, and Color.id last year, which enables colourists to highlight hair without the use of foils.
To-do list the hottest happenings this month and beyond…
14 February
1. Be a fashionista It’s February and that means it’s London Fashion Week time again! Taking place between 14 and 18 February, we can’t wait for all the fantastic hair, fashion and FROW-spotting. Visit londonfashionweek.co.uk
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2. Get an insight Go straight from LFW to the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Insight event, which takes place on 18 and 19 February at Wella Studio London. To book, call 0845 601 8128
18 February
Book Now 3. Find harmony Clients’ stresses and problems getting you down? Discover Harmonic Power this summer with Keith Foster – it promises strength, happiness and even greater earnings! To book, call 0844 41 41 306
P.KAI ACADEMY STUDENT TAKES CHEYNES PRIZE Annalise Hunt from the P.Kai Academy has won the Cheynes Training Photographic Competition 2013, with this image (above).
❤ WE LOVE
OSiS+ Session Label Dust it flex, by Schwarzkopf Professional. Why? Because it’s infused with lava rock. Yes, lava! The formula gives hair a matte finish, while the glycerine keeps the dry consistency of the powder smooth. Positively volcanic!
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£1,755
The average amount men spend on hair and beauty products and clothes a year – catching up with women who spend £2,415 annually, according to freedelivery.co.uk.
Salon awards reward staff excellence
Awards season is in full swing, with annual awards taking place left, right and centre, and Marc Antoni and Ken Picton are leading the way, rewarding staff who have excelled in 2013. In Cardiff, Rachelle Simmonds scooped Employee of the Year at the Ken Picton Annual Awards, while Lara Champion took home the Customer Care Award, Nicole White won Assistant of the Year and Ashley Bryn Jones received the Christmas Cracker Award, which celebrates unsung heroes. South East salon chain Marc Antoni rewarded staff with a New York-themed party, held at the Crowne Plaza Hotel in Caversham, Reading. Woodley salon scooped MORE INSIDE See the Headmasters Salon of the Year, while Dan Spiller, from the Annual Awards on page 36 Fleet salon, won Stylist of the Year.
Congratulations to… Jennifer Cheyne, founder of the Cheynes Group, awarded an OBE for her services to hairdressing and charity in the Queen’s New Year 2014 Honours List.
Toni&Guy team breaks on through
Pictured above, back row from left to right: Dan Amis, Kevin Speck, Louis Maharaj, Stuart Matuska, Kieron Justin Fowles, Anna Carter. Middle row, from left to right: Rebecca Morris, Anastasia Kastia. Front row, from left to right: Anna-Maria Hynes, Dexter Johnson, Sylvestre Finold, Anastasia Tsetsou.
Toni&Guy has announced the members of its 2014 Breakthrough Team. Headed up by the Toni&Guy International Artistic Team and in association with L’Oréal Professionnel Artistic Team, the Breakthrough Team is a nationwide search to discover some of the most talented hairdressers for the chance to be selected for a year’s mentoring programme. This year’s programme includes exposing the team to high fashion events and shows, including participating in session work at London Fashion Week and an exclusive Breakthrough Team photoshoot mentored and directed by Sacha MascoloTarbuck, global creative director of Toni&Guy.
Martin Kolton, chairman of Central Training Group, gets an MBE for services to hairdressing and youth training. Lino Carbosiero, creative consultant director at Daniel Galvin and the Prime Minister’s stylist, received an MBE for his services to hairdressing.
Stop Press! The fine for
failing to offer eligible workers the National Minimum Wage has gone up from a total £5,000 to £20,000 for each affected worker.
My month ahead What does February have in store for…
Sheriff Mehmet Envy Barber
This month is a very exciting time for us as we are launching the second Envy Barber in Romford. I’m an educator for the British Barbering Association so I’ll be going to Edinburgh to lecture 60 students on the art of shaving and advanced barbering.
Nicola Smyth
Nicola Smyth Award-Winning Hair We’re taking part in the Goldwell Color Zoom Reallusion 2014 photoshoot, which is really exciting as it will be the first professional shoot the team has done together. We also have advanced Great Lengths education courses booked and we’re preparing for our St. Valentine’s Day promotions. Finally, we’re hosting an open evening for clients to unveil new Kerasilk from Goldwell.
Joe Mills
The Lounge Soho This month we are launching a salon loyalty scheme. Once a client has visited the salon more than twice, they will be eligible to join the The Lounge Soho+ programme. We’re also planning a staff night out where team members put the names of new Soho bar openings into a hat and we draw out one to check out.
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“The enhanced lift series is fantastic on both dark and light natural levels, helping to create unique blonde results to match the client’s vision.”
Anthony Mascolo Founder of Tigi
Nick Irwin Global Creative Director
Christel Lundqvist Tigi Global Technical Creative Director
the best shades are the ones you invent. Become a TIGI copyright©olour stockist: UK: 0844 844 0944 | Ireland: 01890 812 022 For more creative inspiration and information visit: www.tigicopyrightcolour.com
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By Hairdressers. For Hairdressers.
. t i n w o . t i . t t i n lift inve New improved lift series Developed by the TIGI Creative Team for express lift and neutralisation in 35 minutes.
35 min
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THE BUZZ F r o m i n the s a l o n t o o n the c a t w a l k a n d e v e r y th i n g i n - bet w ee n – w e ’ v e g o t a l l the l a te s t n e w s f r o m S c h w a r z k o p f P r o fe s s i o n a l
Prabal Gurung
3.1 Phillip Lim
OS i S + Se s s i o n L a be l i s c a t w a l k he r o
Last year saw Schwarzkopf Professional launch OSiS+ Session Label – and it’s proven to be a big hit backstage where it was spotted at Prabal Gurung and 3.1 Phillip Lim at New York Fashion Week S/S14. The Schwarzkopf Professional session stylist team, led by Paul Hanlon, created an ultra-sleek, almost artificial look, with a deep side-parting to complement the collection at Prabal Gurung, which combined couture and glamour without being overly feminine. For the styling of the models at 3.1 Phillip Lim’s show, Paul created a natural, savage and almost elementary look with a subtle hint of sophistication. Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS+ Session Label, with its modern black design, is perfect for both backstage and in the salon – and as of this month, a new product joins the OSiS+ Session Label range by Schwarzkopf Professional: OSiS+ Session Label Dust it flex. Turn over for our four-page special on the new product!
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Schwarzkopf helps shape futures in Bangalore Schwarzkopf Professional’s UK ambassador Janet Maitland has taken a team of three technicians and seven volunteers to an SOS Children’s Village in Bangalore, as part of the Shaping Futures initiative. The team spent six weeks training disadvantaged young people in India, enabling them to learn hairdressing skills in order to secure a job and earn a living.
O n the g r o u n d … We h i t s a l o n s t o f i n d o ut h o w OS i S + Se s s i o n L a be l i s g o i n g d o w n
“We are all crazy about OSiS+ Session Label – we have never sold so much hairspray!” John Gillespie, J o h n G i l l e s p i e H a i r , Pe r th
“OSiS+ Session Label is a huge hit. The sleek black packaging really has stand out” Louise Ashman, Hair E s s e n t i a l s , We s t Su s s e x
Creative Head
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team talk
“My favourite part of the recent Young Artistic Team shoot, entitled Tartan Youth (pictured), was standing on set and watching how different elements came together. I loved seeing how hair looks so different in a photo. The team decided that a mohawk should feature in the collection as the shoot’s theme was ’90s grunge/punk, but I wanted it to have a modern twist with lots of texture. I pulled the plait out in a butterfly effect to build texture and create a 3D effect” Paulin M
c
Cole of John Gillespie Hair
f o r t h e Sc h w a r z k o p f Y o u n g A r t i s t i c t e a m
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Fr o m c a t w a l k t o shoot to salon Recreate sleek angles and sharp cutting for your client this season
Step one Apply a small amount of OSiS+ Session Label Silk Shine Cream to toweldried hair.
Step two Work the product into the hair and blowdry into shape.
See it! Get more step-by-steps with OSiS+ Session Label by Schwarzkopf Professional at creativeheadmag.com
Step four Finish the look with OSiS+ Session Label Strong Hold Hairspray.
Step three Straighten hair with a straightener.
For all the latest news and reviews from Schwarzkopf Professional, visit facebook.com/SchwarzkopfProfessionalUnitedKingdom 18
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Flex appeal S h a k e i t l i k e a P o l a r o i d p i c t u r e … o r s i m p ly s p r i n k l e it onto the roots or lengths of the hair for instant f l e x i b l e v o l u m e – m e e t O S i S + S e ss i o n L a b e l D u s t i t f l e x
“OSiS+ Session Label Dust it flex by Schwarzkopf Professional offers hairdressers the ability to easily recreate sought-after styling trends in the salon. This product innovation by Schwarzkopf Professional stands for exciting consistencies, flexible volume looks and great styling benefits” T y l e r J o h n s t o n , S c h w a r z k o p f P r o f e ss i o n a l g l o b a l a m b a ss a d o r
You can’t go wrong by adding a little more height – after all, when was the last time you heard someone ask for their hair to be flatter? This is why Schwarzkopf Professional has introduced a new product to its OSiS+ Session Label range: Dust it flex. This dust is the first mattifying fragranced powder that is infused with lava rock. Yep, you heard us right – lava! This lava gives hair a matte finish, while glycerine keeps the dry consistency of the powder smooth, enabling the style to be
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remodelled at any time as well as ensuring that the powder washes out easily. Applied to the roots or the lengths of the hair, the powder provides instant flexible volume, making it possible to create the latest invisible catwalk styles without compromising on strong volume. The OSiS+ Session Label Dust it flex joins an already sleeklooking line up of power products, including two hairsprays, a moulding paste, a salt spray and a silk shine cream.
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ST hHa Ek e Bi U t Zu Zp W hethe r y o u ’ r e st y l i n g b a c k st a g e o r i n the s a l o n , f l e x y o u r f a sh i o n m us c l es w i th O S i S + S ess i o n L a be l D ust i t f l eX b y S c hw a r z k o p f P r o f ess i o n a l
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SESSION STARS
CREATED BY THE WORLD’S BEST SESSION STYLISTS, OSIS+ SESSION LABEL BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL WILL NEVER LET YOU DOWN
Get the new season’s looks in your salon now with Schwarzkopf Professional’s OSiS+ Session Label. Call 01296 314000, visit schwarzkopf-professional.com or search ‘Schwarzkopf Professional United Kingdom’ on Facebook
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#CHedit
BUSINESS
barometer
THINGS ARE LOOKING UP! For many, 2013 went out on an incredible high – the vast majority (84 per cent) reported their best Christmas trading in years. Consumer confidence played a major part, but so too did creative thinking in the salon. “For our male clients we put together product hampers aimed at their wives and girlfriends, and they just threw money at them,” says Paul Knights of Paul Knights Hair Spa. “We sold a huge amount of gift vouchers this year,” says Paul Davies of Top to Toe. “We had really worked on the quality of our offering, and people who aren’t regular salon users came in, too.”
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND IN FREQUENCY 100% DECEMBER 2013 WAS OF VISIT IS NOW OF OUR PANEL DOWN TO 7 WEEKS £44.27%, COMPARED WITH REPORTED BETTER AND 1 DAY – THIS £38.63% IN DECEMBER TRADING IN DECEMBER 2012. THAT’S A TIME LAST YEAR IT 2013 THAN IN
17%
WAS 7 WEEKS AND 5 DAYS
NOVEMBER 2013
INCREASE!
DECEMBER 2013
HOW WAS IT FOR YOU? HOW ARE THE FOLLOWING AREAS PERFORMING IN YOUR SALON?
COLOUR
DECLINING:
10%
RETAIL
STEADY:
33%
GROWING:
67%
DECLINING:
BACKWA TREATMENSH TS
24%
STEADY:
GROWING:
32%
58%
DECLINING:
14%
GROWING:
28%
GROWING: STEADY:
29%
CREATIVE HEAD
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47%
STEADY:
53%
OTHERAL CHEMIICCES SERV HING, (SMOOST, ETC) PERM
Top tips TIME TO GO PRO… EVER WONDERED what makes a good salon great? It’s the same things that makes all businesses great – consistency and service. Have an ‘average’ meal in a restaurant that gave exceptional service, and the chances are you will go back. In your salon, clients should have the same amazing experience every time they visit – but how often does this actually happen? Ensure clear guidelines are in place for staff to follow, to ensure they deliver the level of service that customers will notice. Simple extras like a free minimanicure, treatment or styling advice are easy and cost-effective to provide and make a big impact. Software can really help to add personal touches – such as recording a client’s favourite drink and magazine so you can give a personalised welcome; their appointment history, so you can see where they want to progress with their hair; and contact details so you can send them a thank you. Add a questionnaire to your thank you email, then use the feedback on your Facebook page to show other potential clients how well they’ll be looked after. You can even book a client’s next appointment from the comfort of their chair, rather than make them queue at reception. Let’s bring luxury and pampering back to salon visits and treat all our customers like the gems they are! Jessika Carrera Maybury, Head of Premier Salon
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SALON
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#CHedit
NO-ONE BUILDS ‘HOUSES’ ANYMORE
LIFE
LESSONS
IT’S TIME TO CHANGE PERCEPTIONS IF YOU WANT THIS YEAR TO BE DIFFERENT FROM THE LAST KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5 MAIN STAGE SPEAKER
28 APRIL 2014
AS YOU KNOW, I love to challenge you. So let me ask you: do you want this year to be the same as the last? And if not, then what are you going to change to make it different? Most people want their lives to improve in some way but few people like to actually change anything about themselves or what they do. They would rather the world magically changed around them. With the number of guest visits a year to salons shrinking and the competition for business increasing, you have to start thinking and behaving differently. What was unique and different last year is tired and old this year. So, just what are you going to do differently in 2014? If clients visit less often, then you have to get them to spend more on each visit. Do you know your current average salon bill? Did it increase last year? What is your current client frequency of visit and has that changed in the past 12 months? Without this information you cannot begin to format a plan for the year. For
clients to spend more, you have to give them more. More care, more ideas, more advice, more information, more services. Have a look on the web at salon price lists. Most salons offer the same ‘me too’ services that everyone offers. Full head, half head, root tint, whole head tint, cut and blow-dry, long or short and so on. For a creative industry we can sometimes be very boring. Have you noticed that no one is building ‘houses’ any more? They only build luxury homes or developments, executive apartments or lifestyle living. It’s far more appealing to vibrant people of all ages. Even though we know they are probably smaller with tiny gardens, they sound much more aspirational. Would you rather look forward to a cut and blow-dry at £35 or a luxury hairstyle personally designed for you at £40? More importantly, which one do you currently offer? Which one does your salon and team look like they offer? It’s all about perception and packaging. Make 2014 the year to be different!
Want to ask Ken a question? Tweet us @creativeheadmag or visit 365hair.com
STEVE ROWBOTTOM CO-DIRECTOR, WESTROW AND THE WESTROW ACADEMY, YORKSHIRE Trust your instincts. I went into business at 21. I had no academic qualifications but I knew in my heart it was what I wanted to do. I relied on my intuition and I still do now, 26 years later.
Be nice. Success is dependent upon how you are perceived. This industry is much more open now – get involved and share ideas. Go to events and make friends. One day you may need each other. You only get out what you put in. Working 9 to 5 will give you a salary, but not a lifestyle. There is really only one way to be truly successful in business. It’s called hard work.
Give opportunities to all.
Cut an blow-d dry £35
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•Ken West 2
Luxuryle hair styed design u for yo £40
It’s important to find out what drives your staff early on. If you don’t, somebody else will. Cherish your staff, as without them you have nothing. Find the diamonds and nurture them – they are your future.
LIVE SHOWCASE 27 APRIL 2014
CREATIVE HEAD
17/1/14 15:18:57
by switching to LED lighting TODAY Energy effecient & eco-friendly DIRECT replacements for old lights LED bulbs last over 20 YEARS
Save 90% off your lighting bill with LED lights
Creative Head Magazine b.indd 1
05/09/2013 11:48
The NHF has experienced huge demand from salon owners for its new colour record cards, with orders for more than 80,000 cards being taken in the first three months since launch. The Allergy Alert Consultation and Colour Record Card was unveiled in September and is a joint project between the NHF and the Freelance Hair & Beauty Federation in consultation with the Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association. It allows stylists to better gauge whether, when a client makes a colour appointment, they need an allergy test to be carried out beforehand.
Business rates reform welcome but a ‘missed opportunity’ The NHF welcomed the government’s move to cap increases in business rates, extend small business rate relief and offer a discount on rates for small businesses. Chancellor of the Exchequer George Osborne in his Autumn Statement announced a series of measures, described by the government as “the biggest package of business rates support in more than 20 years”. This included a promise to limit rises in business rates to 2 per cent, an extension of the small business rate relief scheme, a £1,000 discount on rates for small businesses with properties worth up to £50,000, a 50 per cent discount on rates for traders moving into vacant properties and allowing businesses to pay their bills over 12 months rather than 10. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said the announcements were “very welcome” but added the chancellor’s decision to defer wider reform of business rates until 2017 was “a missed opportunity”. She also expressed concern that changes announced to apprenticeship funding could be an extra administrative burden on small businesses.
NHF to help high street
Courtesy of New West End Company
Colour record cards flying off NHF shelves
The National Hairdressers’ Federation has been invited to join a government think-tank looking at ways to regenerate and revitalise Britain’s high streets. High streets minister Brandon Lewis asked the NHF to join the Future High Streets Forum as one of four new members. The move puts hairdressing and barbering – and small, independent retailers – right at the heart of the debate about how to stem the drift by shoppers away from town centres to online or out-of-town retailers. It is also recognition of the growing importance of hairdressing and barbering in keeping many local high streets alive, as well as the depth of knowledge and experience salon owners can bring to bear on this issue. The NHF is expected to bring an important service sector perspective to the forum as well as simply representing an industry that the government has recognised has a growing presence in town centres. Brandon Lewis said: “The way we use our high streets is changing and we need to ensure they are places people want to spend their leisure time as well as shop. Bringing representatives on board from such a variety of places will strengthen its community voice.” The forum was set up a year ago to examine ways to implement high street renewal, in the wake of the government’s response to retail entrepreneur Mary Portas’ review of the high street. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said: “Our members are right at the heart of every high street and, as such, can offer a deep insight into what it is local high streets and local communities need.”
Salons will get safety guide The NHF is working with the Institution of Occupational Safety and Health to develop a new co-branded health and safety guide specifically for hairdressers and barbers. The guide, which will be available later this year, will offer salons practical health and safety tips and guidance to ensure salons and barber shops stay within the law,
protect staff and clients and know who to turn to for help and advice. For example, it emphasises the legal requirement to have a written health and safety policy for your business, properly to manage risk and have plans for first aid and accidents, and to put in place effective facilities and training for staff.
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 0845 345 6500, 01234 831695 or visit nhf.info 22
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Creative head
15/1/14 13:36:33
WOW YOUR CLIENTS! INTRODUCING COLOR WOW ROOT COVER UP The breakthrough, must-have secret weapon for every client with colour-treated or highlighted hair. This innovative mineral powder formula instantly covers grey roots – and even dark regrowth in blonde and highlighted hair without peroxide!
HELP YOUR CLIENTS LOVE THEIR COLOUR LONGER!
BEFORE
AFTER
AFTER
BEFORE
Available in 6 shades (Platinum, Blonde, Light Brown, Medium Brown, Dark Brown, and Black)
"We carry the Color Wow range because there is nothing else like it in the professional market. It is the perfect root cover up for our clients in between their colour visits. We can offer it for them to take home, to take on holidays and can combine it with our services to offer the right shade. I'm quite certain that this will become a major professional brand because not only is it so unique but also because its performance is exceptional. It's a real winner and your clients will love it." – TONY RIZZO
FOR COLOUR TREATED HAIR
2013 BEAUTY HOT 100
BEST HAIR INNOVATION
TO BECOME A COLOR WOW STOCKIST OR FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THE ENTIRE RANGE PLEASE CONTACT ASTON & FINCHER Tel: 0870 240 2176 email: colorwow@astonandfincher.co.uk • www.colorwowhair.com
Kirsten Dunst’s new “chic & messy” look, exclusively from your hairdresser
Wild Stylers THE 1ST INVISIBLE TEXTURIZING-STYLERS. A “tousled, dishevelled” hair effect No rough touch Approved by more than 100 backstage stylists
For more information on how to become a stockist contact your L’Oreal Professionnel Account Manager or contact customer services on 08456 000 122.
Exclusively in salons
Shop The latest products, colours and services
Wild things
It’s a big year for tecni.ART – a reinvention of its products and packaging and a stunning L’Oréal Professionnel global spokesman in A-lister Kirsten Dunst helps it celebrate 20 years of fashion-led styling. First up is Wild Stylers, a range that promises to make the most experimental hairstyles come to life.
RRP £13 each Call 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Super club No limits OSMO has introduced Matte Clay Extreme into its extensive grooming range. With its distinctive red lid, Matte Clay Extreme is designed for men who want to achieve extreme hold.
Create extra long locks with Balmain Hair’s DoubleHair Length and Volume extra length. At 55cm, the hair is available in three application systems – bonds, soft rings and clips – and available in nine colours, enabling effortless blending.
In-salon service Call 0800 781 0936 balmainhair.com
RRP £8.95 Email sales@osmo.uk.com osmo.uk.com
In-salon service Call 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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Salons that offer beauty treatments need the Barbicide Spacide Complete. Designed for disinfecting the pedicure bowl, it’s simple to mix and will not stain.
RRP £49.99 Call 0116 260 1144 hairproducts.co.uk
Ravishing reds Finding the perfect red can brighten a client’s skin tone, make eyes ‘pop’ and leave your client feeling confident and radiant. INOA Carmilane by L’Oréal Professionnel promises to find the ravishing redhead in every client.
Nail it!
Smooth moves
BaByliss PRO has given its much-loved ionic thermal brushes, Airstylers, a new lease of life. What’s new? The Airstylers feature a ceramic coating on the thermal brush barrels for an even smoother finish, and use ionic technology to help to eliminate frizz.
RRP from £22.95 babylisspro.co.uk
Creative Head
17/1/14 15:19:41
Buy online Dazzling deals* this month at creativeheadmag.com
BE WOWED
GO ANOTHER DAY
THE MORNING AFTER
Dry shampoo is still big news and it’s set to get even bigger with the Volumizing Dry Shampoo by Macadamia Natural Oil. Designed for the woman on the go, it’s the ideal mid-day pick me up.
Clients love to effortlessly look good the day after, and now they can with HAIRPLAY messing creme by KMS California. It creates instant texture and grip so clients can embrace the mess!
RRP £19.50 Call 08448 403040 macadamiahair.com
RRP £16.50 Call 020 3540 1200 kmscalifornia.com
SMOOTH AS SIRiLK ch
me and with that salon feel at ho Clients love to get Keratin Care, red) and Ultra Rich Keratin Care (pictu ever before. an th ve easier to achie from Goldwell, it’s ooth and looking ep clients’ hair sm The two ranges ke w in-salon in hand with the ne good and goes hand Goldwell. by ice rv eatment Se Kerasilk Keratin Tr
RRP from £14
Call 01323 432100 goldwell.com
Science and nature
As environmental awareness grows, connecting with nature is set to become a mainstream consumer concern in 2014. To meet consumer demand for the ‘new natural’ Biolage by Matrix has reinvented the four pillars of its range with revolutionary Biomatch breakthroughs that mimic nature.
HOT BOD New Year is always about getting that perfect body, but now clients can get perfect body (for their hair at least) in just two minutes with Color Safe Volumizing Treatment from Big Sexy Hair, available at Alan Howard.
RRP £14.95 Call 0161 406 9360 sexyhair.co.uk
The next hand-held device to change your client’s life! Color Wow Root Cover Up covers dark and grey roots for perfect hair colour everyday! It’s a colourist in a compact… GRAB IT £14.25
*Online deals listed at salon price. Powered by Aston & Fincher
creativeheadmag.com/shop
TWIN POWER Available in a special size limited edition 500ml twin pack, Moroccanoil Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner is infused with protein to restructure and repair the hair’s cuticle. DOUBLE UP £21.72
MAKEOVER MAGIC NXT has been transformed with a new premium look and feel – and it packs a punch inside, too! TOP OFFER BUY 12 TUBES FOR £3.99 EACH
GO BIG A breakthrough solution for fine, limp and thinning hair, this Swell trial kit will show you immediate volume from day one! BIG DEAL BUY 3 FOR £30
RRP from £9.50 Call 0800 387608 matrixhaircare.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit Pre cious – my gra ndfat her’s an d fat her’s clippers
Ja pa n with m y big ka brot he r an d m ento r, Ta Caug ht in the act... back stage prepp ing
In the salo n at Sta nna rd & Slin gsby
In the frame
Tryi ng my han d at colour for Stru ctu re in Berlin
Session stylist and Joico vision director, Gianni Scumaci, snaps away SNAP AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
If th e hood drye r break s, ke ep ca lm an d giggle
Au cklan d an d down un de r… th e rad ar!
wit h Sh a ri n g th e bill a n d a Am Be ll a Fre u d a n d bu rg h H a rle ch in Edin
So lo sh ow an d fu ll hous e in Ca pe Town
Meal Of The Month… a vegan milk hot pot in Taipei
To discover what else Gianni has been up to, visit creativeheadmag.com
NAME: OLIVIA BUTT-FREER AGE: 23 SALON: LISA SHEPHERD BIRMINGHAM
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•In The Frame 1
What have been your highlights so far? In 2013, I was so excited to be a finalist for The It List RISING STAR within a year of coming to work for Lisa Shepherd. I have been blown away by how inclusive hairdressing is.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years? I would love to have a franchise to be able to get even more handson with accounts and figures, or be working towards being a high level colourist in the Birmingham salon.
What would be your dream hairdressing gig? To go on a full shoot with Lisa and Katie Mulcahy in an amazing location like New York, watching them doing the hair and being able to get involved with my own model. Hair by the Lisa Shepherd Art Team
RISING STAR
Why did you want to be a hairdresser? I graduated from my degree in 2011 and went to work as PA to Lorraine Kelly. It seemed like the dream job, but I soon found all I wanted to do was be around the session stylists!
15/1/14 13:41:07
Inside story Hair at 58 Bristol This charming salon in Bristol simply got too big for its boots, which prompted a rather stunning makeover by owner Sam Bell. “We were bursting at seams!” she admits, so she bought the entire building to allow the salon to extend from two to four floors, while bringing the Georgian space back to its original splendour and filling it with luxurious Pietranera furniture from LSE. “As an Aveda salon, I wanted to create a natural environment, incorporating stone and natural wood. With the living walls, I loved the idea of something that would grow with us. It all feels more organic.” We adore the stone reception desk, hand carved by Sam’s stonemason boyfriend. It’s a hard rock life!
Hot buys
now open
Just an illusion Clients can lie back in luxury with The Mirage backwash, featuring an anti-leak shower hose system and, available in 46 colours, there are hundreds of stunning combinations. Add in the introductory price from Salon Design Furniture that slashes 60 per cent off the price, and it’s even more tempting. RRP from £779 (was from £1,949) Mike.cooper@salon-furniture-design.com salon-furniture-design.com
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Hari’s, parsons green, london Adored for fashionable salons on the King’s Road and Brompton Road, Hari’s has now unveiled a third, in London’s Parsons Green. We love the exterior space for clients to unwind when the sun’s shining.
Creative Head
16/1/14 16:33:38
NEW
OSiS+ SESSION LABEL WITH LAVA ROCK DUST IT FLEX FIRST FLEXIBLE VOLUME POWDER FOR CATWALK STYLING PERFORMANCE
INSTANT FLEXIBLE VOLUME REMOULDABLE HOLD EASY TO WASH OUT
Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom
www.schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
t h e island d n u o R
cycle challenge Ibiza 2014 2–5 May
Hop in the saddle and join us on this exclusive cycling adventure in Ibiza! Take in all the wonderful scenery as you cycle round the White Isle in this unique challenge. Will you make it to the finish line party? Visit www.gosh.org/ibiza Call 020 7239 3164 Email challenges@gosh.org
Great Ormond Street Hospital Children’s Charity. Registered charity no. 235825.
Get into gear and sign up now!
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RAVISHING REDS AREN’T JUST FOR THE BRAVE. WITH NEW INOA CARMILANE BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, EVERY CLIENT CAN BECOME A RADIANT REDHEAD 2)_208mm 1
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RED IS THE NEW BLACK L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL INOA INTRODUCES A NEW RANGE OF FIERY REDS WITH FADE RESISTANCE AND SUBLIME SHINE, INOA CARMILANE
FEISTY, FIERY AND forever coveted, redheads have a long history of being admired, but this head-turning shade is set to be more in-demand than ever come S/S14. This is why INOA from L’Oréal Professionnel has launched a new range of fiery garnet reds, designed for those that want to make a statement but still maintain their sophistication. Anchoring the colourant deeply into the heart of the hair fibre, INOA Carmilane is a range of deep, intense reds with garnet accents that are vibrant and intense, while also elegant and luxurious. INOA Carmilane features ODS2 technology, with no ammonia and no odour, for superb softness and sublime shine. Over the following pages, you’ll discover just how rich and intense the INOA Carmilane range can be, thanks to award-winning salon Brooks & Brooks creating four on-trend techniques and looks to inspire you to take your colour clients to a whole new level.
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A NEW FLAME
MEET YOUR NEW COLOUR OBSESSION: INOA CARMILANE BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. BECAUSE LIFE IS NEVER BLACK AND WHITE...
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UNFINISHED EDGING PUT A TWIST ON THE TRADITIONAL REDHEAD WITH THIS DEEP, DARK SHADE
CREATE A BACKDROP OF A DEEP, DARK AUBERGINE REFLECT AND EMBELLISH THE EDGES USING INOA CARMILANE TO ADD VIBRANT AND LUSCIOUS COLOUR JOHN CLARK, COLOUR DIRECTOR OF BROOKS & BROOKS
•16 pp_L'Oreal 7
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INSIDE OUT BEAUTY THIS MULTI-TONAL EFFECT IS PERFECT FOR CREATING A SOFTER LOOK
WE WANTED TO CREATE A SPICED HAZELNUT RESULT WITH AN INSIDE OUT TECHNIQUE TO SHOW AN ARRAY OF COLOUR WITH A MULTI-TONAL EFFECT JOHN CLARK, COLOUR DIRECTOR OF BROOKS & BROOKS
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ROUGE MID-DYE GO FROM WINTER TO SPRING USING THIS TECHNIQUE
THIS IS A NEW TAKE ON MY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL COLOUR TROPHY-WINNING LOOK, USING A COMBINATION OF COOL AND WARM COLOURS. IT LOOKS ABSOLUTELY STUNNING SOPHIA HILTON, ART CO-ORDINATOR OF BROOKS & BROOKS
•16 pp_L'Oreal 10
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•16 pp_L'Oreal 11
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ANYONE CAN BECOME A REDHEAD, BUT IT’S THE PERSONAL TOUCH, TOGETHER WITH INOA CARMILANE, THAT WILL KEEP CLIENTS COMING BACK
CHOOSING THE RIGHT HUE comes down to more than whether or not your client wishes to have flame-haired locks. It’s about what actually suits them. Reds aren’t just for the bold and the brave anymore, but it’s important to choose the right shade – and this all comes down to the consultation. You’ve got the colour range to back you up; now it’s just about perfecting your colour consultation. Start by taking into account your client’s lifestyle, personality and wardrobe. Try asking whether they prefer to wear warmer or cooler tones. Finding the right red can brighten skin tone, make eye colour ‘pop’ and leave your client feeling confident and radiant, so it pays to spend as much time talking to your client as possible.
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INOA Reds are one of our favourite colours in the salon. It’s exciting to work with shades that are going to last and give super shine Jamie Brooks, owner of Brooks & Brooks
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WE’VE SHOWN HOW VIVACIOUS REDS CAN BE BUT ALSO HOW ELEGANT AND LUXURIOUS THEY CAN LOOK. THE FOUR TECHNIQUES WORK FOR EVERY CLIENT SALLY BROOKS, OWNER OF BROOKS & BROOKS
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RED IS THE COLOUR OF RUBIES AND ROMANCE, FIRE AND PASSION. WHATEVER THE COLOUR RED MEANS TO YOU, IT’S TIME TO WORK WITH INOA CARMILANE – THE RANGE THAT KNOWS HOW TO BRING OUT THE BEST IN ALL SHADES OF RED Bring out the redhead in every client with INOA Carmilane. Receive your free Look Book and technique guide with every purchase by speaking to your L’Oréal Professionnel representative. For more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/inoa
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your name
in lights
the greatest accolade Creative HEAD’s 2014 Most Wanted Awards launch in March creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted
035_MW_promo RIGHT SIZE 1
15/1/14 13:43:05
Scene George Lamb
THe hottest events every month – get yourself scene!
shine
It’s the New Year and that means only one thing: the Headmasters Awards! More than 1,000 people gathered to celebrate and acknowledge the achievements and creativity of the Headmasters team internationally throughout 2013. Set in a winter wonderland at Battersea Evolution in London, people greeted each other after the Christmas break, keen to kick off 2014 in style. But amid the sparkling ball gowns, shirtless men (we never did figure out what they were up to!), dodgems, casino tables, and under a canopy of twinkling stars, people sat down for a scrumptious three-course dinner and, most importantly, the awards. Host George Lamb kept the audience riveted throughout, before staff danced the night away sipping wine and cocktails while the DJ pumped out highoctane floor-fillers into the small hours.
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Raju Raymond, chief executive of Headmasters
Time to
Creative Head
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Charlotte Mills, Wimbledon Village, with Headmasters chairman John Sanders
Emma Feeley and Headmasters artistic ambassador Ollie Blackaby Michelle Walker and Ida Askevold
Christine Sanders Future Stars Award Michael Tullio and Emma Feeley, Headmasters Senior Academy, Putney Men’s Image Award Jack Woolgar, Headmasters Brighton Headmasters Hammersmith
Headmasters Dorking
HEADMASTERS AWARD WINNERS CREATIVE PHOTOGRAPHIC AWARDS
Women’s Image Award Michelle Walker and Ida Askevold Gustavsen, Headmasters Lillestrom, Norway GHD Creative Award Kristy Morris and Maxine Carroll, Headmasters Paddington
BUSINESS & MANAGEMENT AWARDS Most Charitable Salon of the Year Headmasters Surbiton Retailer of the Year Alan Luckhurst, Headmasters Richmond Busiest Stylist of the Year Jimmy Woolman, Headmasters New Malden Management Team of the Year Headmasters Dorking B.E.S.T Reception Team Headmasters Wandsworth
Headmasters Surbiton
Salon of the Year Headmasters Hammersmith
Creative Head
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Oliver Cheshire, Pixie Lott and Christopher Kane
Fashion Fringe, the initiative set up to support emerging designers, celebrated its 10th anniversary late last year by inviting its nine winners – including Erdem, Basso & Brook and Fyodor Golan – to unveil a bespoke look in front of a hipster crowd that included singer Pixie Lott, presenter Jameela Jamil and designers Christopher Kane and Christopher Bailey. L’Oréal Professionnel, who’s sponsored Fashion Fringe since 2009, was on hand backstage – Johanna Cree Brown at Trevor Sorbie and Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer created stunning hair looks for the models – and front of house, with a pop-up L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Chalks bar that did a roaring trade all night long. The party had a bittersweet ending, as fashion writer Colin McDowell announced Fashion Fringe would be replaced with a new initiative, to be revealed in time.
Jonny Engstrom
Designer Bruno Basso and Johanna Cree BRown
On the FRINGE
Creative Head
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The C9 Touch heats up instantly to 195Ëš and temperature lowers to 165Ëš by touching the plates together 3 times
Mineral infused ceramic technology delivers highly polished healthy looking hair at lower temperatures
To become a stockist please call 0845 2003563
www.cloudninehair.com
CH_C9 Touch ad.indd 1
19/12/2013 15:35
Natural choice
MORE PEOPLE THAN EVER think about how eco-friendly a product is and how kind it is to skin and hair. In fact, European consumption of active natural ingredients in beauty products is set to grow by almost five per cent a year for the next five years.* But, like all trends, the green movement is evolving; people still want to go natural, but they want the science to back it up. “We’ve had hightech and we’ve had plain natural. These streams are coming together as women realise results come from nature but are used in scientific ways,” says beauty columnist Bella Blissett. Nowadays, women want it all: products that not only look great but really work while also being natural – and with an affordable price tag, too. This is the crux behind the relaunched and revamped Matrix Biolage range. Nearly 50 per cent of women say they have not found their ideal haircare range,** and that’s where Matrix Biolage comes in. Biolage offers everything that women want in a product, with a price that’s accessible for women everywhere. Matrix Biolage has tapped into the beauty of nature and unlocked the science behind it. Just as nature inspired the design of Velcro, where scientists saw how burrs used little hooks to attach themselves to passing animals, Matrix Biolage has also mimicked the properties of plants. Using natural ingredients, including cotton, orchid and aloe, it has created beautiful solutions to everyday hair concerns.
*Source: Kline & Co **2CV survey of 2,186 UK women
Nowadays, saying a product is green just isn’t enough – it’s got to have the science to back it up. Grow your green credentials with Matrix and its relaunched Biolage range
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Grow your green credentials with Matrix Biolage. Call 0800 387608 or visit matrixhaircare.co.uk 41
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Rev up
your retail Want to increase your retail revenue? If so, The Retail MOT by Matrix is the answer to kickstarting your retail growth
What is The Retail MOT? The Retail MOT is an initiative launched by Matrix in 2013. It’s aim? To improve retail in UK salons and to make recommending the right product a key part of your staff’s repertoire.
What does it involve? It’s a 21-day programme of inspiration. Once a salon has committed to it, Matrix will give staff a Product Knowledge Refresher so everyone is up-todate. The brand will also hold a Kick Off meeting, which is with the whole salon team. Then for 21 days the salon owner’s only commitment is to have a one-minute meeting with each team member each day to talk about their performance and to offer support. On top of this, the salon will be given a dedicated
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business consultant who will call the salon every week with the aim of keeping everyone focused and motivated on a single goal: massive growth in retail sales and added profit.
But does it work? With some salons reporting up to a 1,000 per cent increase in retail sales, it is clear the programme works! On average, participating salons have grown by 156 per cent nationally, according to Robert Smith, Matrix retail brand manager.
Why focus on retail? Matrix recognises that unlike other countries where retail traditionally represents a healthy proportion of a salon’s business, there is a huge opportunity to reinvent the way we look at professional haircare.
Creative Head
15/1/14 13:51:18
Talking
shop
Paul Falltrick, owner of Paul Falltrick Hairdressing and a Matrix Global Design Team member, talks retail and how Matrix can help How has Matrix helped boost your retail business? The Matrix MOT programme has really boosted my retail. It helps you to re-evaluate that area and build upon successful elements of your approach, as well as tweak any strategies that need work. If you stick with it, you’ll always see results.
Often stylists say they struggle to sell retail and that clients aren’t interested. How did you overcome these objections with your team? The retail journey starts from the consultation to the till. From assistants demonstrating shampoos and treatments at the backwash to stylists mentioning the products they’re applying and receptionists closing the deal, it’s all about the client’s hair and how the formula can work for them.
How do you consult with a client and encourage them to buy homecare? Step 1: Consultation. It’s simple: no consultations means no sales. Engage with the client and listen to their expectations. Then, analyse the scalp, colour depth and length of the hair and discuss what could be the best solution. Step 2: Experience. Use the backwash as a stage for the product experience. Talk about the
product’s properties. Let the client smell and touch their hair. Step 3. Styling. Discuss how the product will maintain a professional result at home until their next visit. Place the products on a table to showcase them. Step 4. Retail. Accompany your client to the products shelf, pick up the product and put it into the client’s hands to feel and smell it, but don’t push the sale.
What are your tips to retail success? Make sure products are well stocked and displayed in hot spots on the client’s journey around the salon.
What are the current trends in salon retail? Clients are looking for products that will leave their hair looking healthy and natural. We’ve seen clients seeking out retail shampoos, conditioners and finishing sprays that don’t have product build up and combine natural ingredients with technology that leave them with expensive-looking hair.
What do you think of the new-look Biolage? I love it! It’s sleek, professional and maintains the soft feel of the original line. My team was very excited about them and cannot wait to use them and advise their clients. It’s new look is also more eye-catching.
Kickstart your retail with Matrix. Call 0800 387608 or visit matrixhaircare.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Your VIP pass VIP to success LAST YEAR, ghd Spotlight gave stylists money-can’t-buy experiences within the industry. Prizes ranged from winning a place on the ghd Art Team and working with ghd creative director Zoë Irwin, to being backstage at London Fashion Week – and in 2014 the opportunities just keep on coming! Next, ghd is offering one lucky stylist a ghd VIP seminar experience at the brand’s flagship studio in London.
COMPETITION
Want an accessall-areas seminar experience with ghd? Enter the ghd Spotlight competition for a VIP-worthy prize you’ll never forget
The winner will... • Get an exclusive VIP experience at a ghd seminar of your choice. • Receive one-to-one time with a ghd expert educator. • Be given a bespoke goodie bag that includes all the essential tools from the seminar. • Have their winning entry professionally filmed and featured on the ghd YouTube channel.
The competition is open. Here’s how to enter:
1
Create a profile Visit creativeheadmag.com/ ghdshowcase to register your details if you haven’t done so already.
2
Get filming Create a how-to video of your favourite style. We want you to show your creativity, but it can’t be longer than four minutes.
3
Share your talent Upload your how-to video to your ghd Showcase profile and make sure it includes the tag #howtovideo.
WANT IT? Of course you do. Well, don’t let us stop you! See opposite to discover how to sign-up to ghd Showcase and how to enter this fabulous competition for your chance to make like a VIP for a day. Good luck!
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Need to know: • You can upload your video from an iPhone/iPad device or a computer • You must create the hairstyle without any assistance • Anyone can enter – your salon doesn’t need to be a ghd salon • Closing date is 14 March, after which a ghd judging panel will select the winners, who will be contacted via email
Don’t miss it! Closing date is 5pm, 14 March – register for your profile creativeheadmag.com/ghdshowcase
For more details about ghd Spotlight, visit ghdhair.com/spotlight or call 0845 330 1133
Creative Head
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THE BIG IDEA
CAROLINE SANDERSON
Hair Heroes
SAY HELLO to Hair Heroes, the new salon brand from Caroline Sanderson, founder of Ego Hair Design in Inverness and winner of Most Wanted BUSINESS THINKER 2013. Housed in the original Ego premises before that salon moved to somewhere larger, Hair Heroes is saving the style of locals in a flash. Part of the express service trend sweeping the UK, customers need no appointment – just grab a number, take a seat in the beach hut-inspired salon, grab a Kindle (or some crayons – it’s actively targeting kids too) and wait your turn. No service takes more than 30 minutes or costs more than £25. Guys can choose from signature services, gals can opt from the blow-dry menu or go for the “cut and blast”, where they receive a quality cut but dry their own hair. Even the nails are super quick, using Smart polish that needs no base or top coat. “Ladies come in and get pampered at Ego, but where do their husbands and kids go?” Caroline wondered. Hair Heroes is the answer, and also signals a new business model for Caroline as she looks to make Hair Heroes a franchise business, offering franchisees a salon that will bring in a solid income under the VAT threshold. She really is a hair superhero!
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I N N O VAT I O N
Farewell, dry spell Your clients’ dry spell is over with Aveda’s new Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil – part of the reformulated Aveda Dry Remedy range
GOT A CLIENT with hair drier than the Sahara? What they need is something that promises to hydrate their hair but not weight it down or leave it greasy. Let Aveda come to the rescue with its Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil. It’s our new favourite hair-quencher! This lightweight, luxurious oil can instantly improve dry hair by up to 66 per cent – talk about giving hair a good drenching! The oil is part of the recently reformulated Dry Remedy range, which includes: Moisturizing Shampoo, Moisturizing Conditioner and Moisturizing Masque – a system designed to drench dry, brittle hair. The range also features a fabulously fresh and lightly floral aroma, with extracts of organic lavender, bergamot and ginger lily. But what is the secret to Dry Remedy’s thirstquenching results? Its patented Deep-Moisture Complex, which features key ingredient organic buriti oil, as well as pomegranate and olive oils, leaving locks soft, supple and shiny.
THE STORY BEHIND THE OIL On a quest for hydrated hair, Aveda sought inspiration from the moisture-rich forests of Brazil. There, the ecoconscious brand found hair’s Holy Grail for parched, brittle locks – buriti oil. This richly moisturising oil is harvested from the fruit of the moriche palm – called the ‘tree of life’ by the locals – which flourishes in Brazil’s wettest areas. But the benefits of buriti oil span far beyond its moisturising properties: by sourcing organic buriti oil from rural riverside communities in Piaui, Brazil, Aveda is helping provide revenue to the surrounding areas, working with Brazilian company, Beraca, by buying buriti oil from the co-ops that produce it – helping rural communities to thrive.
For more information on Aveda and how to join the Aveda network call 0870 034 2380 or visit aveda.co.uk/grow. Join Aveda on Facebook at facebook.com/Aveda or follow Aveda on Twitter@AvedaUK
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ADVERTISE WITH
£4.50
ARY 2014 FEBRU
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Subscribe to Creative HEAD
nd Beyo reality e, s’ desir their heart ht Whatever r and delig delive
Our unique ‘wall of content’ allows salon professionals to browse exclusive features, shoots, videos, blogs and competitions quickly and easily, just like reading a magazine In print ● online ● everywhere! For creative ad solutions contact Ad Manager Steve Good on 020 7324 7540 / steve@headmag.co.uk
House Ad 1 2
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From frustrated…
•Goldwell 1
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More than
50 60
per cent of all consumers have unmanageable hair*
More than
*Qualitative Market Research 2011 in Germany and US
per cent of all consumers suffer from frizzy hair*
•Goldwell 2
Now...
discover the first customisable keratin treatment service for hair like silk for up to five months
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*Qualitative Market Research 2011 in Germany and US
Then…
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From frizzy and fuzzy to wiry and puffy – one in two women* have unmanageable, curly or frizzy hair. Most of these women spend a lot of time blow-drying and straightening, yet end up with hair so frizzy, it looks like a cloud floating above their heads. Let’s face it, unmanageable hair seems to have a life of its own. These clients covet smooth, manageable hair that’s as soft as silk – something that’s remained nothing more than a distant dream. Until now.
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...now
Stylists can make clients’ dreams come true with the new Kerasilk Keratin Treatment from Goldwell. It differs from other keratin treatments in that it allows stylists to create a customisable, long-lasting service for each client. The Kerasilk Keratin Treatment offers every client 100 per cent perfect results, for hair like silk for up to five months.
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SOFTLY DOES IT
GOT A CLIENT FRUSTRATED WITH THEIR HAIR? MAKE THEM LOOK AND FEEL FABULOUS WITH THE KERASILK KERATIN TREATMENT FROM GOLDWELL There’s nothing like the feel of silk against bare skin. It’s smooth and soft to touch, and your fingers can’t help but glide over it. Now stylists can make hair just as soft with the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment from Goldwell. Stylists can use the two-component system that makes up the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment to perfectly tailor it to every client. Regardless of whether the clients’ hair is frizzy and unmanageable or very curly, damaged and wavy, with the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment, stylists can establish an entirely new salon smoothing service for both new and loyal clients.
LET’S GET TECHNICAL The Kerasilk Keratin Treatment service features KeraShape Technology, with smoothing glyoxylic acid and smoothing ingredients such as keratin and silk proteins. This penetrates into the hair where it creates new keratin bonds and stabilises the new hair shape for up to five months.
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Discover fabulous salon benefits with the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment from Goldwell Establish a new salon service Win new, loyal clients Expect sales to multiply beyond your investment Enhance your PR with the Kerasilk Marketing Kit
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To fabulous Discover the first customisable, long-lasting keratin treatment service from Goldwell
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HOME TIME
YOUR CLIENT HAS THE LOOK THEY’VE ALWAYS DESIRED, NOW THEY WANT TO MAKE IT LAST AND KEEP IT LOOKING GOOD FOR AS LONG AS POSSIBLE. ENTER KERASILK KERATIN HOME CARE, FROM GOLDWELL
Clients can maintain the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment effect at home with two aftercare ranges from Goldwell: Rich Keratin Care and Ultra Rich Keratin Care. These formulas contain silk and keratin proteins to keep hair smooth and silky soft for as long as possible.
SEE IT! Find out more about the new Kerasilk Keratin Treatment at youtube.com/goldwelluk For more information about Goldwell and the Kerasilk Keratin Treatment, contact your Goldwell sales consultant, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com
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It champions It influences It inspires
makes you a star
Aged 30 or under? Get on Creative HEAD’s It List, in association with ghd, launching in March creativeheadmag.com/theitlist
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a truly new drying & styling experience awaits you 31.01.14
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FA S H I O N
VISION QUEST
THE IT LIST VISIONARY 2013 OFFERS AN INSIGHT INTO HIS AWARD-WINNING COLLECTION SIMPLISTIC, IMAGINATIVE, HONEST – those are the three words Brooks & Brooks’ Jonathan De Francesco uses to describe his work. The It List judges would perhaps add a little more to that, having bestowed him with THE VISIONARY award for this dark, gothic-edged collection. “My inspiration was based on recurring patterns found all around us,” he explains. “Examples include Persian rugs, tapestries, sea sponges and ice. Shapes and forms that are so simple they can be created into a structure that boasts its beauty.” Citing hair stylists such as Angelo Seminara, Eugene Souleiman, Anthony Turner, Peter Gray, Paul Hanlon and Guido Palau as inspirations, alongside artists Francis Bacon and Salvador Dali, he knows the importance of having a vision. “There is beauty in all forms of life, and I feel it is up to the artist to draw this out and express it honestly in the most simple form. I believe my basic senses play a major role in assembling thoughts and ideas, and exploring the world helps flush the mind and fill it back up again.” And we expect to see many more breathtaking visions from Jonathan in years to come… 53
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Mrs Steven s
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Hair Jonathan De Francesco. Make-up Jennifer Mika Avins. Art Direction Jonathan De Francesco. Photography Takahito Sasaki
John Paul DeJoria and Angus Mitchell, ® co-owners of John Paul Mitchell Systems
Paul Mitchell® has been voted as one of the UK’s coolest brands by consumers and an expert panel. Joining other luxury brands such as Apple, Aston Martin, John Lewis and Tiffany and Co on this prestigious list,
• Truly professional • Cruelty free • Affordable luxury • Officially cool
we are celebrating all things cool, and being ethi-cool.
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HOW TO BE COOL WHAT MAKES PAUL MITCHELL SO COOL? ITS FOUNDERS? ITS ICONIC PACKAGING? OR ITS STANCE ON ANIMAL TESTING? JOIN US ON A MISSION TO DISCOVER ITS JE NE C’EST QUOI
•Paul Mitchell Insert 1
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John Anthony and John Paul DeJoria •Paul Mitchell Insert 2
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ITʼS OFFICIAL! IT’S THE BRAND THAT GAVE US THE ONEAPPLICATION SHAMPOO AND NO-RINSE CONDITIONER, THAT STOOD UP FOR ANIMALS WHEN NO OTHER COMPANY WOULD AND VOWED TO STAND BY THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY NO MATTER WHAT – NO WONDER PAUL MITCHELL HAS BEEN GIVEN OFFICIAL COOLBRAND STATUS
WHAT DO APPLE, Aston Martin, Stella McCartney and Paul Mitchell all have in common? They’re all CoolBrands! Now in its 12th year, the CoolBrands list is an influential initiative that aims to identify the UK’s coolest brands. Helping rate coolness for 2013 were the likes of TV chef Gizzi Erskine, musicians Laura Mvula and Charli XCX, Bestival founder Rob da Bank and model Daisy Lowe. The CoolBrands list was drawn from thousands of independently identified brands and whittled down to a shortlist of 1,136. A panel of 37 designers, style experts, media personalities and prominent figures from the worlds of TV, fashion and music then scored each brand, bearing in mind factors such as style, innovation, originality, authenticity, desirability and uniqueness, before 3,000 members of the British public gave their ratings. The views of both the panel and consumers were combined to produce a list of the brands most highly rated by both council and consumers – and Paul Mitchell was one of them. Stephen Cheliotis, chairman of the CoolBrands Expert Council, says: “The brand qualities we examine in the CoolBrands survey – such as authenticity and innovation – can be key influences on consumer purchasing, so performing well is not just a thumbs up for Paul Mitchell’s reputation, but an indication of its future success.”
•Paul Mitchell Insert 3
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So hot, it’s cool…
There’s more than one factor behind Paul Mitchell’s ‘coolness’. In fact there’s probably too many to count, but these are our favourites…
Cool cause #1: The founders
John Paul DeJoria and Paul Mitchell
Cast your mind back to 1980. The Empire Strikes Back hit cinemas, the average house cost £13,000, people got their groove on to Funkytown, shoulder pads were yet to make their indelible mark on fashion and two friends, Paul Mitchell and John Paul DeJoria, founded what would become one of the coolest brands in the world: John Paul Mitchell Systems.
•Paul Mitchell Insert 4
Cool cause #2: The vision Paul and John Paul had a vision: to found a company by hairdressers for hairdressers. A company that would provide tools of success for haircare professionals, their salons and the entire beauty industry. Today, John Paul, along with Paul’s son Angus, continue to steer the company according to the original vision.
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Cool cause #3: The products Instead of simply launching just another product line, Paul Mitchell was created to help stylists manage their time more effectively. In the ’60s and ’70s, shampoos were nearly always applied twice. Paul Mitchell, however, recommended that his shampoo could be used just once. Paul Mitchell The Conditioner also worked immediately and was designed not to be rinsed away. Not only that, the founders hated the idea of products being tested on animals and so have never, and will never, test their products on animals – now that’s cool!
Cool cause #4: The vow
Cool cause #5: The family Paul Mitchell chief executive John Paul DeJoria has included the company in his Nevada family trust, which dictates that none of the family members and generations to come are to sell the company under any circumstances.
•Paul Mitchell Insert 5
John Paul and his daughter Michaeline
Despite hugely lucrative offers from major corporations to purchase Paul Mitchell, the brand’s owners refuse to sell the company because of the vow Paul and John Paul took to stand by the professional beauty industry. Since no suitor ever guaranteed it will market Paul Mitchell products exclusively through salons, selling has never been an option.
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The ethi-cool choice Of course, there are more important things than simply being cool – you have to act with conviction, just as John Paul Mitchell Systems does
Always ahead of the curve, John Paul Mitchell Systems has made a point of giving back to the planet and its people. From no animal testing to fundraising for the Waterkeeper Alliance to protect our water from polluters, Paul Mitchell has been helping to protect the planet long before it became cool to do so. Nowadays, more and more consumers are caring about the products they use, the ingredients that go into them and the brand behind them all. Wouldn’t it be nice if you could turn around to your client and tell them all about your chosen hair brand’s environmental efforts with pride, rather than wariness? Perhaps you’re not sure what your chosen hair brand does when it comes to giving back, but Paul Mitchell makes it a point. It has a culture of giving, so when you choose to work with Paul Mitchell, you
•Paul Mitchell Insert 6
are supporting the efforts of many not-forprofit organisations around the globe. Living by the mantra that ‘success unshared is failure’, John Paul DeJoria is tireless in his efforts to support global charities, including his role as goodwill ambassador for the United Nations on behalf of hairdressers worldwide. On top of this, Paul Mitchell is, and always has been, cruelty-free. Endorsed by Cruelty Free International, the global organisation dedicated to ending animal testing for personal care and other consumer products, and has received the Leaping Bunny stamp of approval. Paul Mitchell also supports The Pink Ribbon Foundation, Invisible Children, Food 4 Africa, Habitat for Humanity, Amnesty International, Beauty Changes Lives, Conservation International and many more charities – need we say more?
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•Paul Mitchell Insert 7
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•Paul Mitchell Insert 8
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ITʼS
POKER-STRAIGHT LOCKS ARE PAST THEIR PRIME. CURLS ARE FAST BECOMING THE PROM QUEEN OF HAIR, WHICH IS WHY PAUL MITCHELL IS INVESTING IN ALL THINGS CURLY
TIME
TO
CURL
BEING PART OF the professional beauty industry for more than 30 years not only gives John Paul Mitchell Systems an amazing history, but helps the brand create more tools to help hairdressers with the latest technology. Last year saw the launch of a new power-packed Paul Mitchell system for all our curl friends across the globe. And, because curls are here to stay, this year Paul Mitchell is introducing a new curl sister to the family with the launch of rinse-out curl detangler, Spring Loaded Frizz-Fighting Conditioner. The conditioner joins Spring Loaded Frizz-Fighting Shampoo as well as Full Circle Leave-In Treatment, Twirl Around and Ultimate Wave.
•Paul Mitchell Insert 9
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WANNA BE IN OUR GANG? FIGHT THE GOOD FIGHT AND BECOME A PAUL MITCHELL STYLIST
JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS’ global network of stylists are some of the coolest people on the planet, fact! The brand nurtures and grows Future Professionals, not just trainees. It provides a variety of ‘look and learn’ and hands-on education, delivered by the Paul Mitchell Artistic Team. Internationally in demand, the team travels extensively through Europe and North America, educating stylists
•Paul Mitchell Insert 10
and future professionals, and creating collections for the brand. Paul Mitchell stylists are never expected to just stay in the salon; like the brand they also give back to the planet and to their local communities. The Paul Mitchell Schools in America has contributed an astonishing $11.2 million (£6.8 million) in the past 10 years to a variety of charities, setting a pretty cool example when it comes to giving back.
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“I LOVE BEING A PAUL MITCHELL STYLIST AS IT PROVIDES EVERY TOOL AND PRODUCT YOU COULD EVER NEED TO BE SUCCESSFUL. ITS EDUCATIONAL SUPPORT COVERS ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING, FROM CREATIVE FOR STYLISTS TO BUSINESS FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS” JOSH DENHOLM, MEMBER OF THE PAUL MITCHELL ARTISTIC TEAM
•Paul Mitchell Insert 11
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PURE PERFORMANCE
COOL CAN BE ANY COLOUR YOU WANT WITH THE COLOR XG AND SHINES XG
LIFE JUST GOT a lot more colourful with the launch of John Paul Mitchell Systems’ new shines XG and the color XG. Last year, not only did Paul Mitchell launch the next generation of hair colour, but also the next generation of your
•Paul Mitchell Insert 12
hair colour business. Going back to the building blocks of hair colour, the color XG and shines XG bring you the latest Dyesmart technology to create a cool new hue for your clients. Created from 12 fundamental dye pairs,
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shines XG intermixable shades provide performance, pure and simple. Paul Mitchell has combined XG Dyesmart innovation and beautiful translucency for a new generation in no-ammonia, demipermanent hair colour performance.
•Paul Mitchell Insert 13
The color XG was developed for the needs of today’s salon professional, fusing performance and reliability in an easyto-use system that achieves the results that you and your clients want, every single time.
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O
Man
Man Because what could be cooler than having the co-owner as the face of your brand?
•Paul Mitchell Insert 14
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•Paul Mitchell Insert 15
*Mintel International
He personifies the ideal of the John Paul Mitchell Systems man: classic cars, a jet-set lifestyle and always impeccably groomed. So there was no question the brand would want to keep it in the family and make Angus Mitchell the face of the MITCH product line. Launched in 2012, MITCH aims to satisfy the grooming needs of today’s urban gentleman. Paul Mitchell is already the number one salon brand purchased by men,* so it made perfect sense to launch a system just for them, including the first sulphate-free two-in-one shampoo and conditioner for guys, Double Hitter. The range also includes: Construction Paste, an elastic-hold mesh styler; Hardwired, a maximum-hold spiking glue; Steady Grip, a firm-hold natural shine gel; Clean Cut, a medium-hold semi-matte styling cream; Barber’s Classic, a moderate-hold high shine pomade; and Reformer, a strong-hold matte finish texturiser. With awards stacking up from Esquire, Launchpad and Men’s Health, MITCH is helping chaps the world over to man up.
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Cool moments in history There are many factors behind John Paul Mitchell Systems’ coolness. In fact, there’s probably too many to count, but these are our favourites…
1970 Paul Mitchell
1977 Paul creates
creates the ‘shag’, embracing the lifestyles of the hippie movement.
the solar-powered Awapuhi Farm in Pa’auilo, Hawaii.
1987
1987 Freeze and Shine
Salon Success launches Paul Mitchell Luxury Hair Care to the UK market.
Sculpting Spray is first launched to the UK and remains at the top of the UK Paul Mitchell bestsellers list to this day.
1990 Paul Mitchell receives a Humanitarian Award from People magazine for the brand’s ethical treatment of animals.
1980 The first Paul Mitchell product range is launched.
2007 2001 Paul Mitchell adds a range based around the properties of Australian tea tree oil called Tea Tree, which is its first product line to be carbon offset.
Chief executive John Paul DeJoria signs a legally binding document saying the brand cannot be sold off for 360 years.
To find out more on how to be cool and Paul Mitchell, visit paul-mitchell.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011
•Paul Mitchell Insert 16
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Officially Cool
All of this, and still privately owned and steered with the original values and hippy ‘peace, love and happiness’ roots by co-founder John Paul and Paul Mitchell’s son Angus. What could be cooler than that? To discover what a cool brand could do for your business call us on 0845 659 0011 www.paul-mitchell.co.uk
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Find us
and
at Paul Mitchell UK
08/01/2014 11:01
Creative HEAD presents the
salon directory Enhance your listing now, it’s easy and it’s completely FREE! Visit layeredonline.com/mysalon and create your account.
Update your basic salon listing with details of the services you offer, the brands you stock, your opening hours, examples of your work – and more!
Your salon can now be linked to fresh, exciting editorial on the Layered website – and is ready to be searched by thousands of consumers!
Got a question?
Call the Layered team on 020 7183 5866 or email enquiries@layeredonline.com layered_dps_promo_jan.indd 4
16/1/14 12:17:10
free
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100’s of salons have already enhanced their listing. Make sure you do too! layered_dps_promo_jan.indd 5
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timelin e Color Z oom 62
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ct
2. Choose your ideal model and sele complementary styling
llusion trend 1. FEBRUARY: Be inspired by the Rea tation and develop your own interpre
3. MARCH: You should be prepping your model and taking photos
CREATIVE HEAD
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Stretch your boundaries Go further than you ever thought possible with the Color Zoom Challenge 2014 by Goldwell FROM YOUR CREATIVITY and passion to your dedication to colour perfection, your individuality is what makes you you. Goldwell’s Color Zoom Challenge is all about bringing your uniqueness to the table and seeing what you can create using the Color Zoom 2014 trend, Reallusion, as your inspiration. The competition is there to push you harder and further than ever before as you create new looks that have the potential to become the next international trends. Whether you go on to become a national or international winner, the Goldwell Color Zoom Challenge is the perfect way to make a name for yourself. The national winners will receive extensive publicity and be the centre of attention at many high-profile events, while an international winner will join the Color Zoom Creative Team and work on designing the next Goldwell Color Zoom Collection. The winner’s work within the Color Zoom Creative Team will become part of Goldwell’s Color Zoom ’16 campaign. On top of this, the winner will be profiled as an international top stylist with an array of prime opportunities to boost their image, their profile and their career! See opposite to discover the three categories and pick the one that best applies to you. Then it’s time to get to work on creating your interpretation of Goldwell’s Reallusion trend, before sending a picture of your finished look.
and 4. MAY: The deadline to enter photos May 31 is ts men docu t relevan
The three categories are: • GLOBAL CREATIVE COLORIST: this category is open to all Goldwell stylists who have more than five years of professional experience. • GLOBAL NEW TALENT COLORIST: this category is open to all Goldwell junior stylists who have fewer than five years of professional experience. • GLOBAL PARTNER COLORIST: this category is open to all stylists who have worked for Goldwell as a freelancer, trainer or guest artist. In each category, three national winners will be announced (Bronze, Silver and Gold), with the national Gold award winners going on to compete in the International Live Competition in Berlin in October.
Event takes place in will compete in a live hands-on Berlin where national winners in each of the three categories competition for the global title
6. OCTOBER: The Color Zoom Global
5. JULY: The national winners are announced
MORE INSIDE Turn over for all the details you need to know about Reallusion
Get it! Download your Color Zoom Challenge briefing kit at colorzoom.com CREATIVE HEAD
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Go on a journey of discovery with Goldwell’s Color Zoom ’14 trend, Reallusion
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Learn the latest trends
ster team
Goldwell supports and educates hairdressers in more than 40 countries, and the Color Zoom seminars are an important part of the company’s education portfolio. With seminars at the Academy London and in-salon training starting this year, stylists can choose among a large number of education opportunities. With the launch of Reallusion, stylists have the opportunity to use additional education channels to extend their knowledge, such as QR codes inside the Hairstylist Guide, enabling stylists to continue learning the new techniques online and discover how the trends can be learnt quickly and on the go.
The Color Zoom Ma
Reality or illusion? Real or fake? Natural or artificial? Playing with people’s perceptions is fun because we all want to believe in the magical. Nothing is as it seems and it is this idea that’s at the heart of Goldwell’s Color Zoom ’14 trend, Reallusion. Created by the Global Color Zoom ’14 Creative Team – which is made up of the three International Color Zoom Challenge winners of 2012 and the Color Zoom Master Team including the UK’s Lisa Whiteman – Reallusion follows the trend concept of artificial reality with the introduction of The Kaleidoscope Effect. This technique utilises strong triangular shapes in both the cut and the colour technique to achieve an element of optical illusion within the finished look. The Kaleidoscope Effect is complemented by two new iridescent shades – 5BV Sparkling Brown and 10BB Peachy Beige – which are available in Goldwell’s Topchic and Colorance ranges. “Reallusion is going to thrill stylists and inspire their creativity, but their clients are going to love this trend as well,” said John Moroney, vice-president of Global Education for Goldwell. “The techniques are simple and easy to learn, and they will suit a wide spectrum of clients.” It’s not reality and it’s not an illusion. It’s Reallusion.
Creative Head
16/1/14 16:38:52
For more information on the Reallusion Education Seminars, call 020 3540 1200, email academyuk.reception@kao.com or visit colorzoom.com/education Creative Head
•62-65_Goldwell promo 5
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You can’t always get what you
want* *but with the help of the salon professional, you can help Mother Nature along!
Longer hair, thicker strands, straighter locks, wavy curls – offer clients whatever their hearts’ desire (within reason, of course!) and have them returning time and again. turn the page to explore how you can delight those clients with cravings and boost your bottom line through a wealth of targeted services and innovations. It all adds up…
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Creative Head
15/1/14 14:04:17
Viviscal Professional Creative Head
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Hair by Laetitia Guenaou for Balmain Hair. Photography by Richard Monsieurs HELPING MOTHER N AT U R E
Extended benefits
Every little helps, which is why extensions have soared in popularity in recent years. Discover how your client – and your business – can enjoy something extra FORGET WAGS; TODAY’S EXTENSIONS are aimed at anyone who wants to improve the look of their hair – not just for added length, but also for volume, texture or colour without chemicals, offering genuine solutions to everyday problems in the salon. Extensions brand Sleek has carried out extensive research to better know clients who love extensions and ensure there are products to meet their needs. “When asked to rate hair, clothing and make-up in order of importance, the Sleek customer never puts hair last,” says Yanike Palmer, product brand manager for Sleek. “Demand for our products continues to increase despite price increases. Our research shows women will reorganise their finances for extensions, so while Sleek hair is affordable, affordability is not necessarily a factor.”
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Transformations can offer the wow factor in a flash – from quick clip-ins to a full head of extensions in super-quick time (Balmain Hair’s DoubleHair can be applied in 35 minutes), it’s no wonder that the market is now worth an estimated £65m in the UK. Fashion trends play a huge part in client desires, and extensions manufacturers have worked hard to offer products that tap into the latest lust-haves. “The ombre look is still strong and hair extensions are a safe and versatile way to achieve it, without the need to add chemicals to your own hair,” says Jas Sahney, managing director of American Dream, which currently offers 11 different ombre shades. We are working in a world where celebrity (and often the reality kind rather than full-on A-list wattage) has a massive influence on the style ambitions of clients through the doors.
CREATIVE HEAD
15/1/14 14:05:01
SUPERIOR quality re m y h a ir Hairaisers have sourced the finest hair from Southern Indian temples to create an exceptional product range; The Remy Collection by Hairaisers. Each strand of authentic human hair is individually selected for its health, shine and natural elasticity to deliver optimum quality each and every time. Both clip-in and weft options are available in a 16”, 18” and 20” and with 26 natural shades to choose from.
B Y HA I R A I S E R S
For more information visit www.hairaisers.com or call 0208 965 2500 facebook.com/hairaisers.london @hairaisers
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16/12/2013 10:01
Great Lengths
Balmain Hair
#HelpingMotherNature
Hairaisers
It’s perhaps seen best in the hair extensions industry; women want to mirror what they see on their screens and in magazines. “Most of our wigs are style replicas of today’s fashion icons and always sports the name of their muse; the Beyoncé is our best selling wig!” says Sleek’s Yanike. ”Women are also now bolder than ever with their fashion choices and are more willing to experiment in bringing their style dreams to life.” “Its not all about length, the majority of clients coming in to the salon are after extra volume,” explains Richard Phillipart, owner of The Boutique and the new American Dream ambassador. “Clients are trying to achieve that healthy, expensive-looking hair they see on the runways and in magazines, and extensions are perfect for creating that.” It doesn’t have to be expensive to ensure that you have an extensions specialist in the salon – for example, American Dream offers courses from £250 that includes deluxe application kits to take away – and once you consider the prices your business will be able to charge for their time and new skills, it’s an investment that can be quickly recouped. Packaging a service as a full enhancement experience is a great way to attract new and existing clients. From older women who are looking to add subtle thickness, to men who want to benefit from extra volume, or who would like to experiment with a longer cut. Nicky Marcar, of Salon Ten in Shropshire, has seen extensions become an ever-increasing part of her business since taking on Great Lengths. “In the past three years hair extensions and enhancements have formed a growing percentage of my turnover – 2011 was 4.5 per cent, 2012 up to 7.2 per cent and
Goldsworthy’s Marlborough
Problem solvers
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At Goldsworthy’s, stylists emphasise that extensions can be the answer to any hair problem, particularly volume. “Wet volume products promise so much, but with extensions we can guarantee 60 per cent more volume in less than 15 minutes,” explains owner Steven Goldsworthy. “We offer real solutions for every day hair problems.” About 30 per cent of Steven’s group’s clients now have some kind of extensions, and he is continually try to increase this by offering new products and regular client education evenings. He adds: “Most of our female stylists wear added hair from Balmain Hair. Some wear the Ready to Wear, which they change every day. This is perfect for promoting our service and getting clients asking questions.”
Creative Head
17/1/14 15:20:56
Hair: Danielle Branton for Balmain Hair
The only leading hair extension brand with true fashion heritage the professional partner of choice Free HABIA Certified Education • 6 Month Quailty Guarantee • Extensive Product Portfolio Shop Online www.balmainhair.com/ukwebshop www.balmainhair.com • 0800 781 0936 • BalmainHairUK
CH Advert Dec_final.indd 1
15/01/2014 15:04
The spice of life Extensions expert Dianne Marshall, who has worked with clients such as Kate Winslet and Gwyneth Paltrow, shares a quick guide to the market
Remy – although the meaning of this word is about
Great Lengths
Hair by Richard Phillipart using American Dream
#HelpingMotherNature
2013 at 9.9 per cent,” she says proudly. “For a hair and beauty business with an extensive range of treatments, seeing extensions stand at 10 per cent with only two members of staff trained to apply them is a fantastic result.” “Making sure your team is well equipped and trained is essential to maximise the potential of having extensions as part of your business, with time-saving techniques now available its a great add-on service for your clients,” says Richard Phillipart. “Investing and specialising in hair extensions has allowed me to really drive forward that side of my business. Extensions are one of the most profitable areas of our industry.” The personal touch is key – offer a bespoke service and you’re more likely to win loyalty. “It’s all about seeing the client and understanding their needs in order to give them the best service and keep them coming back,” says salon owner Jade-Lois Richardson from Rumours in Morpeth, Northumberland. “Since converting to Foxy Hair Extensions four years ago, my overall turnover has increased by 75 per cent, and 75 per cent of my yearly profit comes from extensions.” And because the majority of extensions need a professional touch, clients are often back in your chair for additional services, customer loyalty is not hard to achieve. Jade explains: “I’m always fully booked. I have a huge portfolio of fittings and that really helps me gain new clients.” “When offering extensions in the salon it’s really important to think about the full package. Training your team, marketing the products, right through to after care products,” advises Gary Hooker and Michael Young, owners of the Hooker & Young group in the North East. “There has been a move away from permanent extensions and good quality clip in extensions are leading the way. Hairaisers Pink Label extensions offer high quality human hair and can quickly be applied for instant results.” Sleek’s Yanike adds that working with hair extensions is multi-faceted when it comes to money-making opportunities. “Re-selling offers great margins, clients are likely to require other services and a happy client will change many a thing before changing her hairstylist,” she smiles. “Hair extensions are quite simply a gold mine.”
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cuticle correct hair, it is mostly used and known to the consumer as higher quality, cuticle correct prepackaged Asian hair. Full cuticle hair – very rare and is never sold prepackaged. It tends to be sold from hair merchants and specialised hair suppliers. Virgin Russian hair – the very best. It can last two years and cost up to £2,000 for a full head. Indian and Western European hair – this is thicker and has more of a wave pattern. A full head will set you back between £500 and £1,400 and will last about a year. Single and double-drawn hair – these refer to the thickness of the hair. Double-drawn means every hair from root to tip is exactly the same length, so the thickness is consistent. Single-drawn means hair starts from the root as the same thickness, but then tapers. The weave – between one and three small cornrow braids are created from the client’s own hair in sections that run from ear to and then wefts or strips of hair are attached by sewing the hair with a needle and thread. It’s then blended in to create a style. Clip-ins – hair sold as clip-ins is pre-cut and shaped into several strips with clips sewn on. Clients can then attach and remove them themselves for a night out. Locks/micro rings/cylinders/beads – these are all basically the same apart from the size of the lock. Micro rings tend to be larger in size than a lock so the smaller, the more discreet. Bonded and pre-bonded – this is an individual bonding system where the extension strands have a pre-bond on the tip that’s then sealed with heat onto the client’s hair, or loose hair is dipped into hot keratin and applied to the client’s hair. Taped hair – this method uses two-inch strips that are pre-sealed like double-sided tape. The client’s own hair is sandwiched in between two strips and each strip is sectioned in a brick-style pattern. The effect is totally flat extensions. The strips can be removed and re-used. Shrinkies – this is similar to locking but instead of using a cylinder to pull the hair through and clamp, it uses a small plastic tube that is then sealed around the extension hair and client’s hair with heat to bond. Toppers and integrations – integrations have been mostly used for women who have thin hair on the top or on the crown of the head. This has always been a specialised field and not often available. Toppers, on the other hand, are now becoming more available and are clipped in for extra volume on the top of the head.
Creative Head
17/1/14 15:21:12
#HelpingMotherNature
A little fine-tuning More than 50 per cent of all clients have thinning hair* – and they want you to do something about it! Discover how you can thicken both their locks and your profits… professional range of topical solutions to address the causes of hair loss and offers clients a 100 per cent effectiveness guarantee, as long as they’ve applied the products correctly. “This inspires stylist and client confidence,” explains Mark Shorrock, UK sales manager for DS Laboratories. Nioxin promises users thicker, fuller-looking hair in 30 days, guaranteed – a tempting offer that forms the backbone of the brand’s #30DayChallenge for Thinning Hair Awareness Week in early March. Salons that stock Nioxin, which include Sassoon, HOB Salons and Headmasters, will be running a series of 30 Day Challenge events, where clients can access tips and advice to help boost their locks. Customers who see hair thicken quickly will be won over sooner – a reaction that is fuelling the uptake of a new product range distributed exclusively by Aston & Fincher, Swell. Co-founder Andrew Bidwell, based at London salon Atherton Cox, argues that many solutions don’t offer immediate results, making it more difficult to excite clients. “With Swell, hair feels denser straight away, and that’s the hook. You win over clients right there and then.” While there have been plenty of innovations in services and products for hair, it’s vital to inform clients that diet plays a huge part in hair health – what goes in will have an effect on what grows out! It means there’s a real opportunity in retailing supplements in the salon. Philip Kingsley’s PK4Hair contains soya protein, a source of essential amino acids that are the building blocks of keratin, the protein hair is made of. Viviscal Professional offers a six-month growth programme of supplements, and it’s launched an e-learning tool so stylists can access advice from the expert panel. And at Gloucestershire salon chain Blushes, clients now enjoy their own in-house professional trichologist, cofounder Mark Blake, who’s seen a huge boost in profits as a result. “In the first half of my business year, I saw more than 180 clients with an average of three to five referrals a week from my three salons,” he explains.
*Global Hair Consumer Segmentation Study #WW06D630, 11,349 respondents
FOR MANY CLIENTS in your chair, their vision of perfect hair involves thicker, plentiful locks that feel luxurious. Yet for half of all males and females, the reality is thinning, limp strands, perhaps even with patches of scalp peeking through. It’s a sensitive subject. “I have guests complain daily that their hair is thinning or that due to a diet or traumatic experience, their hair has taken a hit and they need professional advice to get themselves back on track,” admits Gina Conway, who has four Aveda Lifestyle Salons across London. “First, I run through an extensive consultation, going over health history, stress levels, diet, home maintenance, and any hair loss patterns and determine if it is genetic or hormonal. This usually gives me a clearer understanding of where to begin my advice.” Many of her clients have seen results with Aveda’s Invati range, which exfoliates the scalp, supports regeneration of hair and reduces hair loss by 33 per cent. What often helps clients tackling thinning hair is a form of ‘guarantee’ to encourage clients to try a new regimen. For example, DS Laboratories has developed a
CREATIVE HEAD
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17/1/14 15:21:36
THIS CHANGES EVERYTHING
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Colchester
Basildon 01268 525 187 14/01/2014 17:46
#HelpingMotherNature
The new wave KeraStraight
Nanokeratin System
Got poker-straight hair? They crave a wave. Got kinky curls? Oh, to be smooth! Whatever texture your client desires, ensure your salon is a miracle worker!
Keratin services – dubbed the ‘Brazilian blow-dry’ or ‘permanent blow-dry’ by beauty writers – attracted a huge amount of press a few years ago, not all of it positive. Scare stories of toxic fumes and formaldehyde ingredients terrified clients and encouraged manufacturers to reformulate products. The result has been a new generation of services that can transform the hair woes of a good chunk of your clientele. It’s no longer just about straightening – these services pledge to make hair better than it has ever been. KS Ultimate from KeraStraight is quicker, easier and much more powerful, promising to transform dry, damaged and unruly hair into repaired, strengthened and straightened hair that is both easy to manage, soft to touch and lasts for up to four months. For clients who want smoother hair that’s manageable day in, day out, such a service is a game-changer. “KeraStraight has become a
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Creative Head
16/1/14 16:40:41
Creative Head
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Goldwell Kerasilk
staple treatment within our salon menu,” admits Andrew Barton, owner of Andrew Barton Salons. “Whether it’s for the semi-permanent or the backwash treatment, we find that it really does open up financial opportunities for the salon.” With one out of two women having unmanageable, curly or frizzy hair, according to research, Goldwell seized the day to unveil its new Kerasilk Keratin Treatment. The key to this service is the fact that it can be customised to every client – the KeraShape Technology contains glyoxylic acid and ingredients such as keratin and silk proteins, which penetrate the hair, creating new keratin bonds and stabilising the new hair shape up to five months. Whatever the client requests in terms of shape and level of smoothness, stylists can then tailor a result to improve the manageability of the hair while establishing a new salon service to attract new clients, and build the spend of existing ones. “The team feels confident with the service, and loves that it can offer a bespoke treatment to every client, depending on their hair type,” enthuses Lisa Whiteman, co-owner of Webster Whiteman. “Training is important to me as a salon owner, so the fact that this is 100 per cent professional and team members are given education by Goldwell before they can use the products, is a big plus.” Enhanced with biomimetic ingredients, the new formula for Nanokeratin System now focuses on long-term repair for different hair types, and with this image revamp and extended range comes a new opportunity for salons. For Stephen Nurse, operations director at Daniel Galvin, Nanokeratin System is now a significant part of the menu and turnover, with a dedicated team of four people who do between 20 and 40 applications a week. “We have four price points depending upon the life of the hair,” he explains. “We sell it as a complete package with no hidden extras as this is really what works for us and ensures the best results.” “Currently, we see an average of 10 clients a week for the Nanokeratin System Smoothing Treatment, with prices ranging from £250 to £350,” adds Russell McGrath, operations director at London’s Michael Van Clarke. “About 99 per cent of clients who have the treatment return two to three times a year to have the service again, as well as their regular services in-between, because they realise how much easier it is for them to manage their hair at home after the professional treatment.” For those clients who like a straight effect that really lasts, there are permanent solutions out there offering a brilliant business boosting strategy for your salon. Japanese system Yuko has been around for years, and while it’s a lengthy treatment to break down the hair’s bonds to straighten (usually between three and four hours), clients will see a straight result that would need refresher treatments every four to nine months. It has also unveiled new generation
services to offer a wider choice, such as Anti-Frizz for better manageability, and Nourishment for intensive conditioning. “Salons can purchase the necessary products for one application for just £17.50 including VAT, then charge an average service charge of £350, which gives them a profit of £332.50 for three to four hours of work,” explains Yuko technician Jenny Liu. Momoko hair shaping treatments offer a permanent result also, either poker straight or naturally straight, with just the regrowth requiring a retouch. But in an exciting twist (quite literally), it’s also revamping the image of the perm with the Digital Curl, offering clients a variety of curls and waves that last three to six months of fuss-free styling. “Surprisingly were getting many clients who are aged over 30 requesting the Digital Curl. This innovative service has reignited their interest after perhaps being put off by dodgy perms of the past,” says Adrian Hanlon, owner of One Step Ahead in Essex. “Younger clients are also really interested in the service as they have no preconceptions of perming; they weren’t around in the perm’s frizzy heyday. It’s great to be able to promote it to a new audience.” For salon owners, the profit margins are enticing. The cost of the consumable products per client (including all supporting treatments, softening solution and neutraliser) is about £10 to £12; the Digital Curl service retails between £180 to £250, while the straightening service retails between £200 and £300. “We’re seeing excellent profits from it,” adds Adrian. “There’s a sizable amount of clients and potential clients, out there who are bored of their current style and don’t always have the time to spend styling their hair in the mornings. It’s a no-brainer really!”
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COMPETITION
STEP UP!
Go beyond the expected and challenge yourself more than ever before with Wella Professionals TrendVision Award
DO YOU KNOW the trends even before they’ve hit the catwalks? Or maybe you have an almost preternatural sense of what’s ‘cool’ and what’s not, knowing what’s stylish and always on-trend? If so, then it’s time you entered the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award. The competition is the perfect platform to showcase your vision, enabling you to go further than you’ve ever thought possible. Not only will taking part allow you to join and mix with the best in the industry, but can also help boost your salon business, delight clients, raise you and your team’s profile and drive staff motivation and morale! The creative competition is broken down into four stages – Photographic, Regional Heats, UK & Ireland Final and International Final. Within these stages are two categories for you to enter: Young Talent category, where you must be aged 30
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or under; or the Color Category, which has no age restriction. Wella Professionals is looking for stylists that celebrate craftsmanship and share their vision of what’s new, cool and inspiring, using one of the Wella Professionals’ trends for 2014 as their inspiration. To enter, submit your personal vision as a photographic entry before Friday 28 March. This year, you need to submit a before and an after photo so that the judges can see the transformation you have created. Sixteen Color Category and 20 Young Talent entries from each region are then selected by a panel of judges to go through and compete in the Regional Heats in May. The shortlisted competitors will battle it out for a place at the UK & Ireland Final in October to take home Gold and go on to compete in the International Final. On your marks, get set, go!
CREATIVE HEAD
15/1/14 14:08:47
▲
“It has been an amazing experience. Seeing my model up on stage was a very proud moment. The competition has pushed my creative boundaries and I know this is the start of a fantastic career” SEAN NOLAN OF HOB SALONS ON WINNING TRENDVISION AWARD 2013 UK COLOR GOLD
▲
“It’s been my dream to win this award for many years, so to hear my name called out made it all worth it. People’s careers really take off after winning – I’m excited for the future” LUCY TUCK OF MARC ANTONI ON WINNING TRENDVISION AWARD 2013 UK YOUNG TALENT GOLD
DATES FOR YOUR DIARY • Photographic entry deadline is 28 March • Photographic judging takes place on 8 April • Regional Heats are: Tues 13 May – Corn Exchange, Edinburgh Wed 14 May – Hilton Deansgate, Manchester Mon 19 May – East Midlands Conference Centre, Nottingham Tues 20 May – Grand Connaught Rooms, London • UK & Ireland Final is 6 October – The Roundhouse, London
THE TWO TRENDS
URBAN NATIVE S/S14
This breed of tech-savvy, nature-connected people are as at home in the city as they are in the countryside, feeling at one among the urban cityscape as they are with nature. Their attitude towards nature and the environment is easy and authentic. Laundered, faded colours dominate, which create natural subtlety. It is sun-filtered and with an airy freshness.
DON’T FORGET! Get your TrendVision
BORDERLINE BEAUTY A/W14
Award entry pack now. Call 0845 601 8128 or email wellaevents.im@pg.com
A contrast between muted natural shades and vibrant colour. A new persepctive on beauty will come to the fore as trailblazers venture beyond the boundaries of age, colour and shape. There’s depth with an element of rebellion.
For more information on the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award, call 0845 601 8128 or email wellaevents.im@pg.com
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502495 Matte Clay Creative Head FP_Layout 1 18/12/2013 17:14 Page 1
E M E R T X E
Model: Jamie at Esca Rose Agency, Styling: Greg Milne, Hair: Lou Clavé
Take style to the
where there’s Follow Us:
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Tweet Us: @OsmoUK www.osmo.uk.com
One for the boys The new Matte Clay Extreme joins a line of products by OSMO that are fast becoming men’s go-to grooming items
WE ALL KNOW MEN can spend just as much time on their hair as women, so isn’t it time they had a range completely devoted to their grooming needs? OSMO thinks so, which is why it’s created a range of slick, stylish and seriously cool products designed to add texture and definition to any man’s hair. The latest edition to the acclaimed OSMO grooming line, which includes the ever popular Clay Wax, Shaper Maker and Corruptor among others, is Matte Clay
Extreme. New for 2014, this extreme hold texture wax is the perfect solution for barbers and stylists looking to provide their clients with the very best in defined style with supreme hold. With its distinctive red lid, Matte Clay Extreme makes a welcome addition to any salon environment.
For more information on Matte Clay Extreme and the OSMO range, email sales@osmo.co.uk or visit osmo.uk.com CREATIVE HEAD
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PROFILE
“SOMEONE ONCE ASKED ME ‘HOW DO YOU TREAT ROYALTY?’ IT’S SIMPLE, I REPLIED. WE TREAT THEM EXACTLY THE SAME AS THE OFFICE GIRL WHO HAS SPENT SIX MONTHS SAVING TO GET HER HAIR CUT. EVERYONE IS TREATED LIKE ROYALTY” A MAN ON A MISSION TO TRANSFORM THE HAIRDRESSING INDUSTRY, WITH A FAMILY FIRM THAT’S EXPANDING ACROSS THE CAPITAL, WE MEET DANIEL GALVIN OBE AND HIS TEAM TAKING A QUICK GLANCE around the Daniel Galvin salon in central London, we’re surprised by the relative quiet. At almost 9,000 sq ft, you’d think the sound of hairdryers would’ve been almost overwhelming, but they’re not. Instead, the gentle sounds of a walllong waterfall can be heard. One of Europe’s first super-salons, Daniel Galvin runs like a well-oiled machine. The entire ground floor is dedicated to colour, while the basement is for cutting, styling and blow-drying. When the salon first opened 10 years ago, many in the industry were skeptical of anything that size being a success, but a success it most definitely is. So much so, Daniel and the two men behind him – style director and son James Galvin, and operations director Stephen Nurse, can’t wait for the next 10 years.
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15/1/14 14:18:04
Creative Head
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The Marylebone salon
Daniel Galvin OBE
vens
Main stage speaker
28 April 2014
Creative HEAD: Lovely to see you all! With three of you heading up parts of Daniel Galvin, what are your roles? Stephen Nurse: I started out as a hairdresser, but now I make sure projects happen and get delivered. James is in control of the artistic side and will also be overseeing the new salon, while Daniel is the chairman and so makes the big decisions.
CH: Yes, we heard you’re opening a new salon – what can you tell us about it?
James Galvin: We’re actually opening two this year! One is in the Mulberry spa in Beaconsfield, which opens in March, and we have a new salon in Kensington, which is opening in June.
“We’re looking to create smaller, more boutique salons in different pockets of London”
CH: Will it look like the flagship salon? SN: Not at all – it will be about a fifth of the size of this salon and will have a different feel as it’s in a neighbourhood, so our plan is to design it in keeping with the area – almost like you’re walking into a private members’ club. Daniel Galvin: The new salon is in an old regency-style building, so it’s really lovely. It’s also freehold so we bought
•82-85_Daniel Galvin 2 4
CH: What made you decide to branch out? SN: Our best asset is our human resource, so it seems crazy that the people we train for three to four years and leave because we have nowhere to put stylists then another business gets the benefit of that training. I think the other reason is having James back in the business. He came back from Los Angeles two years ago and he’s been instrumental.
Daniel Galvin, owner, Daniel Galvin
CH: Isn’t that quite close to your Marylebone salon? SN: It’s off Kensington High Street, but I see it like New York and Central Park. Certain clients won’t come this side of Hyde Park – it’s the dividing line. It enables us to tap into that Kensington/Knightsbridge market.
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it outright as landlords can be a nightmare. The flagship is a super salon and fantastic, but you don’t want too many that size. Now we’re looking to create smaller, more boutique salons in different pockets of London. SN: Everyone says boutique nowadays. I prefer to say a neighbourhood satellite! JG: I like that as no-one is saying that! It’s a residential area and we want it to be like a home from home. We’ll probably get the odd client coming from our Marylebone salon but we’re mainly looking to attract a new clientele from that side of London. It’s the first of what we envisage to be of many.
CH: What brought you back to the UK from California? DG: Tell the truth, you missed me! JG: Yes that’s it! I missed the family business. SN: You missed fish and chips. JG: Yeah, and pubs and Guinness. It was actually the logistics of being in LA. It was an experience and a steep learning curve for me. LA taught me a lot about business
Creative Head
17/1/14 15:22:22
Stephen Nurse The new Kensington salon
James Galvin
and I came back with a whole different appreciation for this salon and what Dad’s achieved because these kinds of businesses don’t happen overnight. I could then also see the potential that Daniel Galvin still has. DG: It just needs the right people to spearhead it. For James to be involved in the business is great.
JG: We’re mainly on the same wavelength. Every now and again we have different opinions and we’ll talk them through, and it’ll generally end with Daniel getting his way, which is fine. SN: Yes, I’d agree with that. DG: I’m the name above the door but everyone makes it work. I’m just one of the workers – I’m only the boss if something goes wrong.
CH: You’re already opening two new salons. What else are you up to? DG: We’re launching a new CH: Daniel, you’ve been in consumer product line this hairdressing for 50 years. year as well. It’s taken about What keeps you motivated? DG: I’m so lucky. I adore a year but we’re almost there. hairdressing and so love It’s about the quality, not the working. When I see a woman sales – a lot of people bring out Daniel Galvin, come upstairs with a smile on something and it’s no good. owner, Daniel Galvin her face and a twinkle in her The name is on the outside, eye it makes me so happy. but the inside is rubbish. SN: It’s about finding a niche and owning it. John Frieda and CH: You were away from the business for a few months last Frizz Ease is the best example of this. Our strength is colour, year for health reasons. Did you not think then about taking particularly highlights, and that’s what we want to own. We want people to think that if they’ve got highlighted hair, they things more slowly? DG: I was away for quite a long time as I had a slipped disc can’t be without this product. and had three operations, but it was lovely to be able to come CH: Where are you planning on selling the product range? right back. It actually gave me a new lease of life. SN: We’re still deciding that. All energy has been focused on CH: So no retirement plans yet, Daniel? the performance of the product – we’ll be able to say a lot DG: I will never retire. more about it at Salon Smart in April. SN: No, that word doesn’t exist in his dictionary – he’s torn CH: There can be disagreements in any business, but in a the page out. DG: I don’t know what I’d do with myself, I don’t play golf… family does it ever get personal?
“I’m the name above the door but everyone makes it work... I’m only the boss if something goes wrong”
Creative Head
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fresh thinking on business
Want new BUSINESS IDEAS?
Get to Salon Smart!
27-28 April 2014 Park Plaza Riverbank, London BOOK NOW 01434 610944 ss_promo_dec_final.indd 2
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Tickets cost
£189 per person
Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.
Includes: l Full two-day business programme l Three-course dinner with wine l Four-star overnight accommodation l Breakfast, lunch and all refreshments l Bumper goodie bag
Motivational speakers Practical workshops Live Q&A sessions Non-stop networking
Come and be inspired at Creative HEAD’s two-day business networking event! creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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Look who’s talking
@creativeheadmag #salonsmart14
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15/1/14 14:24:03
fresh thinking on business
ONE ticket. TWO Sunday 27 April
18.00 Meet & Mix
09.40 Andrew Cannon
Enjoy a glass of fizz and the chance to talk shop one-on-one with your hairdressing heroes.
14.00 Check-in opens
19.30 Three-course dinner with wine
15.30 Nancy Cruickshank and Kate Shapland
21.00 Westrow Artistic Team
Awarded the Most Wanted BEST NEW SALON 2013 Award for his beautifully crafted barbershop, Ruffians, Andrew can wax lyrical about style. But the cool design ethic is a smart business strategy – find out from the man himself why the details really do matter.
Hear how the digital guru behind Handbag.com and the Telegraph Magazine’s beauty editor launched MyShowcase – the beauty-retailing concept that’s got everybody talking.
16.20 Caroline Sanderson Turning around an ailing salon business, launching an online academy, implementing a brand-transforming marketing campaign… All this and more earned Caroline the BUSINESS THINKER title at the 2013 Most Wanted Awards. Hear her inspiring story.
17.00 Free time
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Live onstage – an exclusive hair presentation and intimate after-dinner conversation with Westrow’s Steve Rowbottom and Matthew Sutcliffe.
22.00 The bar is open
Monday 28 April 09.20 Nicholas Wood The president of Goldwell and KMS California in the UK and Ireland shares his latest business insight.
10.00 Sean Dawson The general manager at HOB Salons oversees the smooth running of the group’s 24 salons – developing teams and nurturing talent and implementing structures and work practices that ensure tip-top standards are always met. And he’ll be revealing how he does it…
10.20 Salon Smart Creates Learn how to perfect the client experience in a specially devised masterclass, delivering expert advice on the serious business of customer services.
11.20 Ken West Whether you’re concerned about underperforming stylists or the implications of the minimum wage, the director of 3.6.5 Education is back to discuss money matters.
15/1/14 14:24:41
DAYS. all this! 11.45 Daniel Galvin Team Legendary hairdresser Daniel Galvin OBE, his stylist son, James, and operations director, Stephen Nurse, will come together on stage for the first time at Salon Smart. Come and listen as the trio reveals all about building a brand, family dynamics, big decision-making, and how even one of the UK’s most famous salons is still working hard to keep evolving.
12.30 Working Lunch Enjoy 90 minutes of networking with leading hairdressing and business brands. Learn about new products and services, discuss your own business needs, enjoy exclusive offers – and tuck into a delicious lunch!
14.00 Think Tank Have your real-life business dilemmas solved live on stage by an expert panel in this riveting Q&A session.
15.00 Salon Smart Creates Enjoy the second part of your customer service masterclass.
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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16.00 Jamie Stevens He is the go-to hair guru for mega TV shows including X Factor and Gok’s Fashion Fix, owns two thriving salons, is a global ambassador for Matrix, and travels the world educating and inspiring others. No doubt about it, Jamie Stevens has achieved more than your average 30-something – and this is your chance to hear all about his sensational journey.
Tickets cost
£189 per person
Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.
BOOK NOW 01434 610944 LAP IT UP IN LUXURY @creativeheadmag #salonsmart14
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15/1/14 14:25:00
fresh thinking on business
Your whole business package 27-28 April 2014 BOOK NOW 01434 610944 Sponsored by
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15/1/14 14:25:17
Tickets cost
£189
DO BUSINESS IN STYLE
per person
Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £75 single room supplement applies.
Includes: ● Full two-day business programme ● Three-course dinner with wine ● Four-star overnight accommodation ● Breakfast, lunch and all refreshments ● Bumper goodie bag
The four-star Park Plaza Riverbank provides a luxurious setting for Salon Smart guests. With stunning views over the River Thames, hotel amenities include a fitness centre, an award-winning restaurant and free Wi-Fi, while the city’s key attractions, such as the London Eye and the Houses of Parliament, are within easy walking distance.
Smart is so unique in the industry – “Salon a brilliant way for people to get together, share their ideas and experiences and really learn from each other
“
ANDREW BARTON, ANDREW BARTON HAIR GROUP
In association with
ECO-FRIENDLY SINGLE USE SALON TOWELS
Hair Growth Programme
creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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@creativeheadmag #salonsmart14
facebook.com/creativeheadmagazine ECO-FRIENDLY SINGLE USE SALON TOWELS
15/1/14 14:25:35
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Gone girl A monochromatic palette offers a sense of drama in this stunning collection from Richard Mannah Photography by David Mannah
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Hair Richard Mannah for label.m NYC. Make-up Nicole Thompson for MAC. Styling Hayley Smith.
Candy says With bubblegum ombres and high vinyl shine, the look from Ashleigh Hodges is distinctly daring PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEL BURNETT
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Love IT See more of the shoot
from Ashleigh Hodges online creativeheadmag.com
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Hair Ashleigh Hodges, Flame Hair Studios. Assisted by Sophie Hughes. Make-Up Gemma Kimmings. Styling Angharad Merrey.
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Cross my heart
Contemporary and commercial while remaining effortlessly cool, Headmasters illustrates high street chic to perfection Photography by Paul Farrell
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watch IT See all the action
from the shoot online creativeheadmag.com
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16/1/14 16:44:33
Hair Headmasters Pro Artistic Team using tecni.ART from L’Oréal Professionnel. Make-Up Andriani Vasilou. Creative Direction and Styling Sophie Beresiner.
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In print ● online ● everywhere!
Beyond reality Whatever their hearts’ desire, deliver and delight
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Creative Head
17/1/14 15:23:21
Classified
BOOKMARKS!
COSHH
For help with
Tired of surfing the net to find what you need? Here’s a nifty directory of websites that are worth bookmarking for future reference wella.com
Risk Assessment
in Salons
The booklet “A Guide to the Health and Safety of Salon Products” is available at Alan Howard, Aston & Fincher, Capital Hair & Beauty, Sally Hair & Beauty and other good wholesalers. Or send your address and 4 unused first class stamps to:
Discover more about the exciting new launch Color.id, and keep up-to-date with all the latest happenings from the TrendVision competition, too. A wealth of education is available to access, alongside blogs, inspiration from top Wella stylists and a host of trend collections.
The HBSA, Greenleaf House, 128 Darkes Lane, Potters Bar, Hertfordshire EN6 1AE
clynol.com
A sleek and easy-to-use guide to the products and services of this haircare giant, including stunning imagery, a complete overview of the product ranges available and information on how you, too, can benefit from Clynol’s experience.
As a hairdresser you naturally listen to your clients’ problems and confidences. You take on a lot of their stress in that way and risk damaging your own health. Follow The wisdom Way and learn to protect yourself (and earn more money). Go to www.harmonicpower.co.uk or call 0844 4141 306
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
The L’Oréal Professionnel website offers you instant access to the world of e-learning. As well as Inspire TV, you can browse the Inspiration Gallery of latest looks, meet the ID Artists, get detailed information on all products or update yourself on the latest trends with IT Looks A/W13.
schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk
Explore the inspirational new hair trends, see the latest catwalk shows and discover the high-performance professional products as used by stylists and session teams all over the
hairdressing world.
HAIR BEAUTY FURNITURE
15% OFF* QUOTE: CHLOVE
0844 875 7775 salonsdirect.com 10,000 PRODUCTS ONLINE
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Ŕ
NEXT DAY DELIVERY
*on orders over £100. See website for full terms.
16/1/14 10:27:55
STYLE SYMBIOSIS AGENCY BOSS NIGEL BARNES WAS ONCE FORCED TO CHOOSE BETWEEN THE SALON AND SESSION WORK. BUT HE EXPLAINS WHY THOSE TWO WORLDS CAN NOW CO-EXIST THERE ARE HUGE BENEFITS to working in an evertransforming industry such as hairdressing. Many years ago, after working in some of the most amazing high-profile salons in the country, I was forced to make the choice between my burgeoning passion for session work and the salon. In those days, the two worlds were seen to be unable to work in tandem. Salon owners from the older generation didn’t recognise the creative and financial benefits of having a stylist that both looked after guests in the salon and also produced photographic or show work externally. This meant that many salons lost their most talented team members to the session world, and missed out on an amazing opportunity for extra revenue and publicity for their business. After trying to balance my work between the two, eventually I had to part ways with the salon, and they lost a high-billing stylist. You need honesty in any employee/employer relationship, and their lack of flexibility
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unfortunately led to this relationship breaking down. Thankfully, most salon owners and managers have now changed the way they think about session work and no longer have the desire to squash their team’s creativity or dampen their enthusiasm. Offering your team the flexibility to seek session work once or twice a week allows the salon to bill out for their time and helps to create a steady income. It also creates a fantastic buzz in the salon among the team and your guests when you can share examples of your stylists work featured in print, online or even gracing the pages of the nation’s glossy magazines. Forward-thinking salon owners, allowing their top talent to work in session and in salon, illustrate that the pressure of being forced to choose between the two worlds is no more; they can happily co-exist. So embrace the creativity, nurture it and turn it into another string on your business bow! Nigel Barnes is director at the HMS Creative agency
CREATIVE HEAD
15/1/14 14:33:21
DISCOVER NEW KOLESTON PERFECT
INNOSENSE A brand for vibrant permanent colour formulated to reduce the risk of developing allergy, with revolutionary ME+ molecule.*
For more information, contact your Wella Professionals Account Manager, call 01202 595700 or visit www.wella.com
* Althoughtheriskofdevelopingnewallergyisreduced,thereremainsariskofallergicreactionthatcanbesevere.AlwaysperformanAllergyAlertTest48 hoursbeforeeachcolouration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.com/innosense. If your client has ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colourants, you should not colour. ME+ is present in Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect Innosense brand.
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