A LITTLE LUXURY, A LOT OF LOYALTY
EVERY DAY CAN BE ONE OF INDULGENCE AND RICH COLOUR WITH iNOA FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS
Clients continue to invest in products and services that they see value in. That is the bottom line that has helped to keep the luxury market afloat through pandemics, recessions and more. It’s time to take a leaf out of the luxury market’s book and prove to clients that investing time and money in you reaps huge rewards…
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has an unrivalled ability to track consumers’ wants – and to deliver the right tools directly to you in the salon to deliver. You know better than anyone the power of a consultation too: of nailing a brief, of listening and learning how you can answer their needs… You know the power of the wow factor when a cut is perfectly paired with a stunning colour. And, most importantly, you know that clients will return when they see the value in what you’re able to do for them.
The great news is that not only are salon visits stabilising again after the turmoil of the pandemic, but they’re also increasing year-on-year. There has been renewed interest in professional colour, with a decrease in at-home colour use.*
While you possibly think that your clients aged 55 and over might be your target market with the most stable spending potential, ignore the 35 to 54 age bracket at your peril.
Similarly, don’t put all your eggs in the cool blonde basket, as brunettes and warmer tones have shown significant growth this past year. Branch out into bespoke finishes – the epitome of luxury – and you’ll delight a guest and keep them coming back for more…
However, there are barriers: despite wanting to colour, one in three clients have scalp concerns.** Damage, and worries about chemical ingredients, also appear in the top five reasons why a woman will not colour her hair.***
65 PER CENT WANT TO ENHANCE THEIR NATURAL SHADE/COLOUR
61 PER CENT COLOUR THEIR HAIR TO COVER GREYS
74 PER CENT ARE COLOURING THEIR HAIR TO MAKE IT LOOK SHINIER
76 PER CENT COLOUR TO MAKE THEIR HAIR LOOK HEALTHIER **
84 PER CENT AGREE THAT ‘HAVING MY HAIR DONE HAS A POSITIVE IMPACT ON MY HAPPINESS AND EMOTIONAL WELLBEING’*
80 PER CENT COLOUR TO FEEL CONFIDENT ***
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has everything you need to succeed: insight, business support, and tools to help you secure your colour business this year.
In fact, it’s taken one of its much-loved colour ranges and given it a fresh look and feel for 2023. With high-impact shine, care and an ammonia-free, vegan formula, it ticks all the boxes for what colour clients are looking for right now.
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS iNOA
IS HERE TO PROVIDE UNDENIABLE LUXURY FOR YOUR CLIENTS. JUST WAIT AND SEE…
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris created iNOA to give you the power to create luxuriously lucent hair with zero ammonia, in a uid formula that makes it so much easier to use, enabling you to create your art and deliver the naturallooking nish your clients crave. This fan-favourite permanent colour line has been revamped for 2023 with a new vegan formula and new shades – while retaining that signature iNOA sheen and feel.
And the experience for your guests is better than ever, as the next-generation technology ensures optimal scalp comfort while their colour develops. No tingles, no unpleasant aromas, the comfortable colour service is a huge business opportunity for salons in 2023 as clients prioritise their experience when in your chair. Comfort, luxury, amazing service and a dazzling nish, ammonia-free colour business can be boosted to deliver all that while helping add to your bottom line. From the luxurious iNOA experience to the perfectly toned nish with Dia Light, even with Blond Studio Lightening Clay Powder for the most beautiful balayages, ammonia-free colour gives you a golden opportunity to really grow your artistry and your pro ts. And the megawatt gleam that today’s clients are crazy for? You’ll get that dialled up to the max with iNOA, which is powered by oil for a high-shine nish. In fact, the new formulation is kicking things up a notch by offering up to 48 per cent more shine.*
Two new copper shades are also joining the mix, 7.4 and 4.45, to give you the exact tools to offer clients the trending russet hues that show no sign of abating.
NO AMMONIA POWERED
OPTIMAL SCALP COMFORT UP TO 100 PER CENT WHITE HAIR COVERAGE* HIGH SHINE HIGH-IMPACT COLOUR
UNIQUE OIL DELIVERY SYSTEM TECHNOLOGY WITH 60 PER CENT OIL NO AMMONIA FOR A PLEASANT SMELL OPTIMAL SCALP COMFORT
FASTER AND EASIER TO MIX
EASIER TO APPLY AND RINSE
UP TO 100 PER CENT WHITE HAIR COVERAGE FOR HIGH-IMPACT RESULTS*
UP TO 48 PER CENT MORE SHINE* NEW VEGAN FORMULA**
EASIER TO EXTEND TO THE LENGTHS
DEVELOPER?
Because of iNOA’s unique oil-based formula, it needs the corresponding iNOA developer to get the most out of your colour. There are three levels of developer to choose from –10vol for lengths and ends techniques; 20vol for up to two levels of lift, ideal for white hair coverage; and 30vol for a boost of up to three levels of lift.
“Every client wants their hair to be in the best condition possible, so the bene ts of iNOA –an ammonia-free permanent colour that can cover grey and create a brilliant shine –make it the obvious choice.”
“The biggest trend in hair is condition and shine, so iNOA is the go-to product. As it’s an ammonia-free colour it will not strip the hair of natural oils. Instead it will help to lock in moisture with its oil delivery technology, giving clients six weeks of intense hydration while depositing unique colour.”
“I encourage my clients to return to the salon more frequently for smaller maintenance services. A hairline refresh every three weeks and a complete root application every six weeks, alongside a glossing service using the iNOA clear and 10vol – maybe with a small amount of tone to neutralise – keeps the colour fantastic.”
“When colouring lengths and ends don’t forget the versatility of having a 10vol developer. The simplicity of colour choice when looking for 100 per cent coverage is so easy and mixing half the desired shade with the corresponding fundamental shade makes it effortless to get predictable coverage.”
“My top tip for using iNOA is to blend shades thoroughly before adding oxidant, and ensure you avoid a swiping motion when applying, for perfect colouration. For medium to thick textured hair where 100 per cent coverage is required, I opt for a natural deep shade to ensure that full coverage is achieved.”
“The results are amazing! It has lots of uses for unlimited results. The technology helps to respect the natural protective layer of the hair, resulting in sublime shine and feeling luxuriously soft. The multi-tonal results are more natural.”
New for 2023, you can sign up for FREE virtual education sessions to ask any burning colour questions you might have. These virtual sessions give you a chance to talk directly with a L’Oréal Professionnel Paris educator about any of the products and courses available. Each session lasts 20 minutes, and they’re open to anyone in the UK and Ireland.*
*Subject to availability. For hairdressers [16+ years] based in the UK/ROI only. Appointments available 24.01.23 until 12.30PM 29.11.23. One appointment redemption per person. Appointments subject to availability and change at the discretion of the promoter, L'Oréal Professionnel Paris. Full T&Cs available at lorealaccess.com.
Want to learn more about the new iNOA formula? Sign up for one of the FREE threehour iNOA sessions. Get hands-on with a team of skilled educators, with multiple dates and locations available.
You’ll get your questions answered and try the colour for yourself. Want to get hands-on with the other colour ranges? Book onto the Hands-on Colour Induction course and see how much is out there!
DEVELOP YOUR COLOUR SKILLS WITH iNOA AND OTHER BRANDS WITH NEW EDUCATION SESSIONS AVAILABLE ON L’ORÉAL ACCESS
If you have a few minutes to spare between clients, then you can hop online to check out the NEW Foundation Theory Colour course. It consists of 10 short online modules to help you reaf rm the fundamentals of hair colour theory in bite-sized segments. It’s available on demand, so tune in whenever suits you!
L’Oréal’s Colour Keys courses have been a mainstay for years, and an absolute must-do for all colourists. This year, Colour Keys 1 and 2 have both enjoyed a makeover to better re ect updated products and best industry practice.
Enrol now to enjoy access to a digital prelearning video series before you join top educators in the classroom for practical applications.
How do you incorporate iNOA into your colour consultation?
The consultation is key. I have a huge consultation sheet which goes into detail for every client, and one of the things I talk about is the percentage of white hair present and how they feel about it.
Are they looking for coverage, blending, or for an opaque feel which is the more traditional feel? Or for a more modern client, are they looking for something more luminous, so there are more re ects?
That is where iNOA comes into its own. We know you get 100 per cent coverage but a totally different nish to a traditional permanent colour.
How would you use iNOA to recruit a non-colour client? Look at their curl formation; iNOA is ammonia-free and that’s a great selling point for curly and coily clients as they can have a 100 per cent ammonia free colour service.
The most important question is where do they want to be? iNOA works beautifully for this more modern look – super shiny, not a heavy coverage, great for highlights, lowlights, all over colour… it just depends on the client.
What service offering do you create when using iNOA?
It’s wonderful to have the ammonia-free option as a service. It makes it stand out and I think with our service menus we need to really showcase what we do. Something like an ammoniafree service – where you’re doing a global application, highlights or lowlights – is a great marketing tool. There are so many people out there concerned about damage.
ADORED THE WORLD OVER FOR HIS COLOUR EXPERTISE, BALAYAGE KING JACK HOWARD SHARES HOW HE USES iNOA TO ENSURE HIS CLIENTS ARE ALWAYS DELIGHTED WITH THE RESULT
How do you drive rebooking?
Rebooking is always a dif cult one. That’s why offerings such as grey blending are a great service because there’s more longevity between the appointments, rather than going for an all-over tint.
A global tint is different. A client must understand that at the four-week mark they need to come back in to keep maintaining that colour. That all comes down to the consultation, talking about what their expectations are on their timings, because people can be both cashand time-poor. Find out where they sit before you start recommending speci c services.
What’s a big topic for education in the year ahead?
The big conversation this year will be around age and inclusivity. We’ve spent a lot of time perfecting our foil and balayage techniques, and with that we’re only speaking to a certain range of people who come into a salon.
What’s clear from Instagram and various education workshops is that it’s all about longer hair, which is going to be aimed at the 18 to 40-yearold age group. So we’re missing out on conversations with many other clients and we don’t want to ignore them.
AND RECEIVE A SELECTION OF BONACURE CLEAN PERFORMANCE FRIZZ AWAY PRODUCTS FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, WORTH
Be one of the rst 10 new subscribers to Creative HEAD and you’ll receive a shampoo, conditioner and treatment from the Bonacure Clean Performance Frizz Away range from Schwarzkopf Professional.
The new Frizz Away range comprises ve key products that contain babassu oil, which provides up to 72 hours of anti-frizz nish for all types of hair. Advanced technology, clean formulas and sustainable packaging are the fundamental pillars of the range, with no compromise on performance.
Already a Creative HEAD subscriber? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky subscriber will win the full Bonacure Clean Performance Frizz Away collection, as well as hero products from the other Bonacure Clean Performance ranges, worth more than £180. For more information, visit schwarzkopfpro.com/bonacure
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* For the rst 10 new subscribers to sign up between 1 and 28 February 2023. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.
Spotlighting the talent of our industry, ever evolving and growing, the competition welcomes thousands of competitors and guests from across the UK and Ireland every year.
The competition is open to any model, of any gender or any gender identity
New in 2023 we are launching yet another exciting new category - L’Oréal Colour Trophy Moving Image Award and for the first time ever this category is open to entrants working in a salon or as an independent stylist.
With 6 categories in the UK, 4 in Ireland and more opportunities than ever –is this your LCT X YOU year?
To enter the competition, visit lorealcolourtrophy.com or lorealcolourtrophy.ie
#LCT23 @lorealpro_education_uki @lorealpro #lorealprouk #lorealproire
*Entries closing date: 22:00 on 17/04/23. UK & ROI residents 16+ (and up to aged 25 for STAR award category) as of closing date. Upload entry to www.lorealcolourtrophy.com (UK) or www.lorealcolourtrophy.ie (ROI). Must be in a salon team except Future Talent or Moving Image. Entrants for the Moving Image category may be employed by a salon or work as an independent stylist. Salon must be trading. One entry per individual across all categories. Team members cannot change/swap once submitted. Entrants must only use L’Oréal Professionnel Paris colour & styling products on model. Applicable to UK: Colour Specialist entrants must be a Colour Specialist (passed 15-day Diploma course & final exam). Winning team (or Future Talent or Moving Image winner) receives 2023/24 Award & prize experiences including event(s) and/or trip dependent on category. Promoter may amend T&Cs in circumstances beyond its reasonable control. Full details and T&Cs: https://www.lorealcolourtrophy.com/competition-tcs/ (UK) or https://www.lorealcolourtrophy.ie/competition-tcs/ (ROI). Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.
Create your own customised Trimmer or Clipper.
With a choice of 10 colours and personalised engraving, you can customise your tools to suit your creativity, personality, and style.
BABYLISSPRO.COM
AS WE PREPARE for Salon Smart London next month, we’ve taken a two-pronged approach to investigating the business of, well, doing business in this issue. First up are stories from salon owners on how they have tackled their own business offerings and growth, some of whom you can catch on the Salon Smart London stage. Want a ticket? Turn to page 46 for details. Alongside that we’ve considered the lifeblood of the salon – your employees – and recruiting your next team to see you into the future. February marks National Apprenticeship Week (6 to 12 February), and we are all too aware of how the number of hairdressing apprentices starting in England has plummeted in recent years.
That’s why we asked those employers who relish providing apprenticeships to share how they are making them work for their businesses (page 32). Hopefully you’ll be inspired to find your next star. We also get to have a snoop around the new venture from Joe Mills as he departs Soho after 30 years and sets out his stall in London’s King’s Cross. It’s a salon, a home for independent stylists, a photography studio, a celebrity styling haven and HQ for his new agency. Read about his mission from page 52 and feel utterly lazy by comparison…
Amanda Nottage Editorial director
Calling all salon and barber shop owners and managers –Salon Smart wants YOU! First, at our business networking event in London, on 20 March. Tickets cost £95 plus VAT, giving you access to the all-day agenda, including a Working Lunch and a Prosecco-filled finale. Hear from inspiring speakers such as Adam Reed, Jo Dyer, Joe Hemmings and Nicholas Nicola, while panel sessions tackle big topics. Book now – turn to page 46.
Second, to have your say at our next On The Floor (virtual) meeting on 20 February, surveying salon and barber shop employers around the UK and open exclusively to Salon Smart HUB members. The HUB’s free to join and gives you a reduced Salon Smart ticket price. See page 50. creativeheadmag.com/events
EDITORAL DIRECTOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR
ANNIE MAY BYRNE NOONAN
CONTRIBUTOR
DEBORAH MURTHA
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
DIGITAL DESIGNER
EVA VESTMANN
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT
AOIFE CONNELL
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR
KELSEY DRING
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR
LAURA TUCKER
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT
JOY WONG
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER
JENNY BROOKS
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
8.222
The government has announced the introduction of an Energy Bills Discount Scheme from 01 April 2023 to March 2024, replacing the current support providing a discount on gas and electricity unit prices.
The new scheme will give businesses with an energy contract a discount on wholesale prices of up to £6.97 per megawatt hour for electricity and £19.61 per megawatt hour for gas. This is much less than the current discount as wholesale energy costs have fallen back to where they were just before Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, and have almost halved since the current scheme was announced.
Business will receive the discount automatically from suppliers. In its announcement, the government estimated that, for example, a typical pub will save £2,300 off their annual bill and a small retailer about £400.
Salon life is busy, making it challenging to keep on top of your own selfcare. Staying hydrated keeps up concentration, motivation and energy, but actually chugging down all that water can be a chore. Make it easier with Ocean Bottle, which uses plastic waste from the sea to create chic reusable bottles in a host of colours. £45 (onelitre size); oceanbottle.co
PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE’S Salon Owners Summit welcomed business owners back to Dublin for the fi rst time since 2020, and they got stuck into topics such as sustainability and leadership. Held at the Radisson Blu Royal hotel, the event included talks from Jill Ruone and Derek Anthony from business mentor Culture Curators, who discussed how to become a better leader. Jill shared how poor workplace culture led to a group walkout from her salon. “I thought what we did worked,” she said. “So, let’s just stick to it – then it stopped working because we stopped evolving.”
For green goals, Sustain Beauty Co’s Valorie Tate asked owners to question how sustainable their processes are. She advised looking at single-use biodegradable towels, which also save on washing labour, alternative energy options and implementing better salon tools, such as water-savvy shower heads. Sophia Hilton, founder of Not Another, tackled bosses perpetuating toxic behaviour. One remedy is learning not to gossip about colleagues. “Take a breath before speaking to the internal team,” she said. Another is considering your impact on team morale. “Imagine you’re a pebble in a pond; you walk through that door, and you drop the pebble in the pond. The way you walk, smile or don’t smile, they feel that energy.”
BECOME A FADE aficionado with shop floor-ready skills in this one-day course from hair education leader Allilon. Expect talks, demos, workshops and more that will see you right through to certification, upping your fading technique for 2023. WHEN 14 February, Allilon Academy, London VISIT shop.alliloneducation.com
Recruitment has become a charged topic across hairdressing, highlighted by an NHBF report that almost 60 per cent of hair and beauty salons had un lled vacancies, and empty roles taking an average of 16 weeks or more to ll. Common complaints include rival salons offering in ated salaries to lure away staff, a lack of access to school leavers who might be interested in a technical career, and limited success with established job sites.
How are you planning on nding your next team? Who are you looking for and where are you going to nd them? That’s the subject of our next On The Floor discussion, happening on Monday 20 February on Zoom… and we need YOUR help! We’re looking for Salon Smart HUB members to take part and share with us how they are tackling recruitment, and we’ll share the results on the HUB at a later date. Want to know more? Turn to page 50 or visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart/hub
KICK-STARTING 2023 with a celebration, the annual Headmasters Awards returned to Battersea Evolution to recognise its salons’ impressive achievements over the past year. Hosted by comedian Joel Dommett, the event saw more than 700 Headmasters team members come together to raise a glass (or two!) for its 40th anniversary.
A theatrical hair show directed by Headmasters creative ambassadors Sian Quinn, Clare Hansford, Danielle Louis, and Nicole Iroh, made for an energetic, feel-good introduction, while Headmasters Windsor celebrated winning the title of Salon of the Year.
L’Oréal Professional Products is partnering with Net Zero Now, a small business climate action platform, to develop a guide for all salons in the UK and Ireland to help them become Net Zero businesses. Open to all hair salons beyond L’Oréal salon partners, the Net Zero Salons Programme guides them through calculating, tracking and reducing greenhouse gas emissions through tailored carbon reduction plans.
Data from the initial pilot estimates that a single average salon appointment produces greenhouse gas emissions ranging from 2kg to 5kg. If all salons
in the UK achieved a reduction to 2kg per appointment, the industry could remove 420,000 tonnes of greenhouse gases from the atmosphere every year.
The announcement joins other sustainability projects from the iconic hair company, including its Hairstylists For The Future, a dedicated programme to support salons and stylists on their sustainable transformation. There’s a free e-learning plan on L’Oréal Access that’s open to every hairdresser, so in fewer than 30 minutes a salon can start its journey to positive change. There are three modules – carbon, water and waste – that each last no more than 10 minutes and can be completed wherever you are, even on the go, all for free. See lorealaccess.com
One of the most successful women in British hairdressing, Rita Rusk has died at the age of 75 following a long fight against kidney disease.
The Scottish legend was a multiaward winner and credited with designing what would become the fl at iron straighteners the industry recognises today. Celebrity clients included Greta Scaachi, the Duchess of Kent, and Texas singer Sharleen Spiteri, who was a trainee for Rita before turning to music. Many salon owners, including Alan Edwards, began their careers with Rusk.
PLANS TO CHANGE FLEXIBLE WORKING RULES HAVE BEEN REVEALED BY THE DEPARTMENT FOR BUSINESS, ENERGY AND INDUSTRIAL STRATEGY, AND JUNIOR MINISTER KEVIN HOLLINRAKE MP. IF THEY BECOME LAW THEY WILL REMOVE THE 26-WEEK QUALIFYING PERIOD BEFORE EMPLOYEES CAN REQUEST FLEXIBLE WORKING, MAKING IT A ‘DAY-ONE RIGHT’.
Philipp and Siobhan Haug are the newest ASK Education ambassadors, as the hairdressing power couple opens their new salon, Haug London Haus.
Salon Promotions is now the exclusive distributor of ALTERNA in the UK.
Davines has of cially opened its own UK house and academy in London’s Kings Cross.
Jamie Stevens has been revealed as UK creative style ambassador for Keune
The Fellowship for British Hairdressing has unveiled a new app to focus on accessible education, building a community to share and showcase work, and book event tickets. It’s available for both Apple and Android phones.
L’Oréal is launching a new Moving Image Award as part of its iconic L’Oréal Colour Trophy competition. Now open for entries, the fresh award category is for both salon and independent stylists, who will need to create an Instagram or TikTok-style Reel lasting 30 to 55 seconds, showcasing a before and after transformation. This will join fellow categories L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award, the UK-speci c Afro Award and Specialist Award, Star Award and the Future Talent Award. The competition invites entrants across all categories to create a colour look on any model by 17 April. Photographic judging takes place on 24 April, with grand nalists revealed on 28 April. The London Grand Final hits the capital on 10 July. lorealcolourtrophy.com
February celebrates National Apprentice Week and the NHBF has been working with government on the development of T-Levels, which launch in September 2023, to ensure that their content represents the needs of the hairdressing, beauty and barbering industries.
T-Levels are new technical quali cations that will be offered by schools and colleges for 16 to 19-yearolds. They are two-year programmes set at Level 3 and completion is equivalent to achieving three A-Levels. The T-Level for hairdressing, beauty and barbering starts in September. A Transitional Level is also being developed at Level 2, which has been designed for students who think they might like to do a T-Level but need more time to prepare and commit.
The NHBF’s skills report highlighted that 57 per cent of hair and beauty businesses have un lled vacancies. While salon and barber shop owners will prefer prospective employees enter via a ‘job ready’ route or quali cation, such as an occupational traineeship or apprenticeship, there isn’t the capacity for this to be the only route. Technical routes or quali cations are an accessible way to explore the fantastic and diverse range of career opportunities available. Every T-Level student must complete an industry placement of at least 315 hours (about 45 working days). This is to provide the opportunity to put knowledge and skills into practice in a real work environment. It also gives employers a unique opportunity to develop new talent and help young people prepare for work. Within T-Levels the NHBF recommends students try working in different workplaces as well as salons and barber shops to help them decide on the type of employment they feel best suited to.
Many students don’t realise the huge difference between hair and beauty, or the scope of opportunities available away from the salon oor such as education, retail, marketing, sales, and media. Employers supporting T-Levels are helping the next generation of hairdressers and barbers, which could provide part of the solution to our industry’s recruitment problem. For more, follow @nhbfsocial
Create the wow factor with Wella Professionals’ vibrant shades of Koleston Perfect Special Mix. UK & Ireland digital colour ambassador James Earnshaw has done just that with the new KP:POP collection!
In-salon service wella.com
The result of a four-year passion project from co-founders Sean Cassar and Tony Cripps, Mane Tribe’s goal is to offer a truly salon-exclusive brand that’s affordable, sustainable and delivers on the luxury side, too. Everything is vegan friendly, paraben- and cruelty-free, and housed in recyclable packaging.
RRP £17.95 each bluskybrands.co.uk
A whipped, ultra-light mousse that creates weightless body and texture, Redken’s new Touchable Texture is formulated with castor oil for natural shine and softness with zero crunch.
RRP £20.50
lorealpartnershop.com/uk
With two hair-enhancing, anti-ageing ranges focused on bringing back volume and bounce back, ALTERNA is encouraging ne haired clients to nd their ideal upLIFTING hair ritual. Choose from the Clinical Densifying and Multiplying Volume ranges, all available through Salon Promotions, the new exclusive UK distributor for ALTERNA.
RRP from £31.70
salonpromotions.co.uk
Small in stature but packing a powerful punch, INNOluxe’s Elixir V3 is now available in a 30ml bottle, perfect for handbags and holidays.
RRP £14.50
innoluxe.com
New from extensions brand Zen, Luxury Series+ is a serious upgrade, with increased weight thanks to the inclusion of healthier, younger cuticle hair as seen in the Zen Ultimate Series, for increased longevity.
In-salon service
zenhair.co
No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo from OLAPLEX promises scalp nourishment and hair repair while eradicating odour and pollutants –all without dusty product build-up.
RRP £28 astonand ncher.co.uk salon-services.com
A decade after its initial launch, ammonia-free colour icon iNOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris boasts a new vegan formula and new copper shades – while still delivering that signature iNOA sheen and feel.
lorealpartnershop.com/uk
R+Co Lost Treasure Apple Cider Vinegar is a weightless conditioning and nourishing rinse that instantly softens strands by closing damaged cuticles – making detangling a breeze.
RRP £29
xpertprofessional.co.uk
Fresh from extensions brand Gold Class comes Luxury Hair Perfume in two subtle scents, designed to add a veil of fragrance to the hair, while detangling, hydrating and enhancing shine. Clients can choose between the classic Pink Rose or zesty Green Valley.
RRP £25 inanch.com
Semi Di Lino Cristalli
Liquidi, the classic bestseller from ALFAPARF Milano Professional, is better than ever. Its upgraded formula means it now boasts added thermal protection from heat tools up to 230°C.
RRP £17.70
xpertprofessional.co.uk
The new Hair Alchemy Strengthening Masque from Oribe is a buttery soft treatment that deeply conditions while fortifying hair from the inside out.
from the inside out.
RRP £65 oribe.com
Schwarzkopf Professional created new IGORA Cools in response to client demand for cool tones, particularly on dark bases. There are ve new IGORA Royal permanent shades and three IGORA Vibrance demipermanent shades.
schwarzkopfpro.com
TICKLE YOUR CLIENTS PINK – OR WHATEVER SHADE THEY DESIRE!
– WITH THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS KP:POP COLLECTION
FROM PUNCHY BOLDS TO SUBTLE NUANCES, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
KOLESTON PERFECT CAN DELIVER THE STATEMENT YOUR CLIENTS DREAM OF
The Pop Art movement began as a revolt against the norm – the unapologetic boldness of the designs, the vivid colours... Wella Professionals has channelled that rebellious energy and thrilling embrace of colour to create a fresh new collection for 2023 – KP:POP!
Showcasing the power of Wella’s Koleston Perfect colour line, it’s a testament to what you can create with the tools you already have… all you need is that spark of inspiration. Feed your imagination with two new colour services, and a heap of inspiration to get you and your client excited to do things differently this year.
It’s safe to say that we could all do with a little brightness right now. This feelgood factor has spilled into fashion, the idea of ‘dopamine dressing’ resulting in bright swathes of colour showing up on the catwalk. People feel better and brighter in themselves when wearing bolder colours that bring them joy.
The S/S23 shows saw the likes of Marni, Issey Miyake, and Del Core turn the runway into a rainbow and it’s going to be a huge trend for 2023 through fashion, beauty and lifestyle. Wella Professionals selected the perfect partner to meet this trend: someone who could seamlessly combine feelgood dressing and Pop Art with the core colour line of Koleston Perfect. To excite, invigorate, and challenge Wella artists to try something new. It could only be James Earnshaw, Wella Professionals’ UK & Ireland digital colour ambassador. He knows exactly how to harness the power of joyful colour – just look at his Instagram @jhair_stylist! Along with the Wella Professionals Education team, he set out to create a collection that would challenge perceptions of what Koleston Perfect can do. Inspiring, creative and completely versatile. It’s safe to say this collection really pops!
Koleston Perfect is beloved the world over for its reliability. Wella Professionals’ ultra-pigmented permanent colour line is a mainstay for services thanks to its easy mixability, the fact it delivers up to 100 per cent grey coverage, and its patented ME+ technology that helps reduce the likelihood of allergic reactions. You might think of Koleston Perfect for root touch-ups, global colour and rich, natural shades. It is all those things, of course, and it’s also SO much more. Turn up the saturation with the Koleston Perfect Special Mix shades – 10 colours with that same beautiful, reliable finish, that same intensity of colour, plus some added fun.
HERE’S WHAT HAPPENED WHEN THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS TEAM DECIDED TO PLAY WITH KOLESTON PERFECT…
The beauty of Wella Professionals’ KP:POP collection is its simplicity. These looks are bold and exciting and would work just as well in shades of blonde, brunette and trending copper tones. You can dial the intensity up and down, while still getting clients excited about a totally new look.
“These are almost vintage techniques,” says Kelly Laurie, wholesale education lead for Wella Professionals and part of the team that helped to develop the techniques with James Earnshaw. “Wearable looks that work for every palette. It was good to get back to these sorts of sectioning techniques and update them.”
DISCOVER THE ENTICING IN-SALON SERVICES TO ADD THE POWER OF POP FOR YOUR CLIENTS
“I love being challenged; crafting the perfect green shade for this look was not easy… but Koleston Perfect delivered!”
JUST LIKE POP ART, KP:POP IS A REBELLIOUS, FUN TAKE ON THE NORM. ARE YOU READY?
“KP:POP IS A RETURN TO PLAYFUL, EXPRESSIVE HAIR COLOUR. BOLD PLACEMENT, INTENSE TONALITIES AND SHADES THAT REALLY POP. KOLESTON PERFECT IS THE PERFECT RANGE FOR THIS, THE PALETTE REALLY DOES HAVE IT ALL; I WAS ABLE TO CREATE THE BESPOKE SHADES I WANTED TO BRING THIS COLLECTION TO LIFE”
JAMES EARNSHAW
WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND DIGITAL COLOUR AMBASSADORRAINBOW LIGHTS: MULTI-TONE SERVICE JAMES EARNSHAW, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UKI DIGITAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR
3D COLOUR SERVICE
KELLY LAURIE, WHOLESALE EDUCATION LEAD
“Koleston Perfect means reliability and successful results”
3D COLOUR JAMES EARNSHAW
“I adore how Koleston Perfect allows you to formulate your own shades using Special Mix”
RAINBOW LIGHTS: FACE FRAME
KARAM RAI, WELLA EDUCATOR
“I love how Koleston Perfect achieves powerful and playful results”
3D COLOUR
DANIELLE CULVERWELL, WELLA EDUCATOR
“Koleston Perfect means absolute creative freedom”
RAINBOW LIGHTS: SHADOW ERYKA REID, WELLA EDUCATOR
“Koleston Perfect embodies all the things you need from a permanent colour – richness, coverage and vibrancy”
THE KP:POP COLLECTION HAS BEEN SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO GIVE YOU THE TEMPLATES FOR BRAND-NEW LOOKS THAT ARE ULTRA-VERSATILE. POP ’TIL YOU CAN’T STOP, OR DIAL THINGS DOWN FOR A GENTLE BURST OF TONAL SHIFTS
A new and exciting colour collection is all well and good for giving you and your colourists a fresh dose of creativity – but does it always transfer to clients?
This is where the KP:POP techniques really impress. They have been designed as quick and simple but high-impact, clients will be trans xed!
It’s not just the colours that you can switch around – the techniques work across all types of hair. Wella Professionals tested this by asking four salon stylists to put their own consumer-friendly spin on the techniques. Let’s see how they got on…
3D COLOUR
NIKKI CLIFFORD, OWNER OF NJUK HAIR SALON, took the technique for the vibrant spiced orange bob and used the same sectioning patterns to create this attering colour melt on her client.
“This technique was super-quick and easy, I love how it can be used to adapt striking looks into subtle results depending on your chosen colour palette.”
RAINBOW LIGHTS: MULTI-TONE
FERGAL DOYLE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS
COLOUR CONSULTANT AND OWNER OF FERGAL DOYLE HAIR, used the Rainbow Lights: Multi-Tone technique of peacock hues popping from beneath darker lengths, to add interest to a blonde client’s look.
“Rainbow Lights is a quick and effective technique for turning any colour into a creative colour service. Whether you’re working with bold, pastel or vivid shades; or soft, natural tones, it works.”
Face framing sections, money pieces – whatever you call them, their appeal shows no sign of diminishing. DANIEL COUCH, HEAD OF COLOUR AT RUSSELL EATON SALONS, transformed the vibrant magenta shade of the shoot.
“This is the perfect section pattern to add a high-end bespoke nish for clients. It was an easy and effective way to create a texture and tone.”
RAINBOW
How would you have gone about translating the bold scarlet hues of a stunning Afro look in the collection?
JORDANNA COBELLA, DIRECTOR OF COBELLA SALON, wanted to keep that energy while still being easy to wear, and opted for this gorgeous mix of copper shades.
“I found this technique easy to recreate. Working with it on a different texture gives the look a different edge but still provides a contoured feel for my client.”
HOW WILL YOU TRANSLATE THESE SUPER ADAPTABLE KP:POP TECHNIQUES? WE CAN’T WAIT TO SEE!
Tantalise clients and get them picturing new possibilities with KP:POP services. You can find a cornucopia of brilliant education from Wella Professionals on how to use KP:POP to the fullest.
• New fresh look, interactive step-by-step videos
• KP Look Book to get clients excited
• Guide on how to translate creative looks into commercial winners
• Colour mixtures to try
• In-salon and studio-based digital step-by-steps
• Account manager training on the new techniques
ARE YOU READY TO POP?
Capturing four unique looks on one model, ‘Chromatic Crush’ by Robbie Purves explores style, shape, and colour to showcase the versatility of textured hair
Want to build a better business? Then you need to be at Salon Smart on 20 March. Returning to The Chain and Buoy Stores in London, expect a whole day of insight and inspiration. Book now!
Stylist to the stars Jay Birmingham is in South Africa creating show-stopping looks for Love Island host Maya Jama. Get the inside scoop by reading his backstage diary
Digital Download Week is back to help you reassess your strategy and boost that bottom line. Keeping up with technology is key to a successful business – join us from 20 February to find out more
WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS PLENTY OF EXCITING NEWNESS TO LIFT YOUR SPIRITS AS WE LOOK FORWARD TO THE END OF WINTER! FROM COLOUR TO CURLS, HERE’S WHAT’S ON THE AGENDA...
If you’re looking to increase your clientele, it’s time to take stock of your capabilities. And if you’re nervous about colouring or cutting curly, coily or textured hair then it’s time to use this year to boost your skills and confidence!
Sign up for Curl Craft from Wella Professionals. You’ll spend half a day at home working on the theory side of things in a digital pre-learn session, before joining an expert Wella artist at the Wella Studio for a day to get hands-on with cutting and colouring different hair types.
£280; available from mid-March in Manchester, with more courses running throughout the year in London and Edinburgh.
EVERY ISSUE WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR EXPERT ABOUT A KEY CHALLENGE AND HOW TO OVERCOME IT. KELLY LAURIE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS KEY ACCOUNT EDUCATOR (@KELLYWELLA), EXPLAINS HOW THE NEW KP:POP 3D COLOUR SERVICE WILL OFFER FINE-HAIRED CLIENTS SOMETHING NEW
“For those clients who are bored of their look but don’t want high-maintenance colour or a dramatic change, Wella Professionals’ new 3D Colour service is ideal. It’s particularly suited for anyone describing their hair as thin or lacking volume. 3D Colour helps to create a push/ pull effect in the hair; darker areas are pushed back, while you pull attention with lighter sections to create shadows in the hair. This makes the hair appear thicker and more voluminous.
“The technique works well on one-length styles, looks great with natural shades for added dimension, or makes for an easy, creative look with more vibrant shades. It’s ideal for upselling your salon services; it requires the same amount of product and the same application time as a basic full head application – all that needs adding is a simple sectioning pattern. 3D Colour really cannot be recreated at home, so it gives you a professional edge.”
@michellethompsonhair
JAMES EARNSHAW, WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND DIGITAL COLOUR AMBASSADOR (@JHAIR_STYLIST)
This Rainbow Lights technique from the new KP:POP collection is amazing for clients who enjoy playful colour but want to be able to hide it too. Pre-lighten using Blondorplex then take horizontal sections and begin applying Mixture A on the section below the occipital bone. Move to the internal sections, starting with Mixture B; continue to work upwards, alternating between Mixtures B, C and D. Finish by applying Mixture A to the top. Develop for 30 to 40 minutes, rinse and remove using ColorMotion+ Post Treatment.”
Koleston Perfect Special Mix is phenomenal. It adds endless opportunities to formulate any shade and allows you to be really creative. We used it to create the new collection for Wella Professionals KP:POP!”ERYKA REID, WELLA PROFESSIONALS TECHNICAL EDUCATOR @ERYKA_WELLA
Time spent indoors during lockdowns has given many of us a hankering for nature – and Chopp Hair’s re t offers just that. Owner Paul Phillips has brought the outside in for this refurb, with a chic glass extension offering more natural light, three additional sections, and an extra wash point. Visitors can expect brilliant views and sounds of birdsong as the great outdoors takes centre-stage. Inside, sleek mirrors and parquet ooring complement the sandiness of the nearby beach. But Paul wanted to channel mindfulness too: “As much as we could, everything was sourced and bought in the UK, aiming to be sustainable as possible.” Yet the salon isn’t all sand and glass; its clapboard exterior is a gentle reminder that you’re in a shing port with bags of history. Chopp’s salon transformation is part of a wider journey for the business – including the sale of handcrafted, locally made soaps – one which is promoting a sustainable and welcoming environment for all, as well as style.
@GUSTAV_FOUCHE
A stunning refit for this west London colour favourite sees the elegance turned up to full throttle, featuring gold accents and clean lines.
@THEHUBHAIRSALON
This family-run north Devon eco salon offers a tranquil and inclusive oasis that’s fuelled by barista-style brews and a no-judgment policy.
MONEY EQUALS SUCCESS, right? Especially when paired with a gruelling, ‘I’ll prove them wrong’-shaped chip on your shoulder. The thing about hair professionals is that whether we accept it or not, we are conditioned for the ‘hustle’. Our industry connects and jokes over our absence of basic rights at work, normalising the behaviour: “Lunch on a Saturday? Are you mad?”. That sets the scene for why my own business and mental health imploded. We come from an industry that prioritises success far above our own welfare.
When Covid hit I was an educator, and found as lockdowns stretched on (and on, in my native Ireland), every email cost me money. After wallowing in what felt like an endless well of self-pity, I began moving my focus online, and I thrived. With all those eyes on what I was doing, I started a subscription Instagram account – which grew to just under 1,000 subscribers and at points pulled in almost €18,000 (£15,900) a month. But as restrictions lifted and the strain of everyday life slowly returned, I began to struggle. By prioritising my business, I did not prioritise myself. I did not plan for long-term project sustainability, or factor in time off or boundaries, or the restart of everyday activities, friends, or holidays. My phone became a constant source of anxiety. I became withdrawn, making business decisions in a reactive way.
One day, for no particular reason, it came crashing down. I just couldn’t do it anymore. This was the way I looked at it: I could be rid of all this worry overnight, but the catch was it would cost six figures. Would I take it? That day I decided I would.
It was incredibly difficult and it felt like the worst break up, but I regret nothing. It was as if I had built a skyscraper on top of matchsticks. Through psychiatric help I learned of my ADHD, and why the structure (or lack of it) I had created essentially imprisoned me. If you have the option of safely walking away from something and can guarantee your happiness as a result, do it. Prioritise self, wellness and health always. I’m now slowly understanding what I need for my own version of success.
Global creative director, TONI&GUY
“When I finished school I headed to college to study business and, to start with, I enjoyed it. But working in an office didn’t really appeal to me, so once I left I just hung around not really knowing what to do. My dad’s best friend was a barber and cut my hair and I loved the whole banter in the shop, so when a friend suggested a job at TONI&GUY I thought, ‘why not?’. I visited the TONI&GUY Academy and as soon as
I got there, I realised it was what I wanted to do. I was full of enthusiasm, I loved the precision, the elevations, the distribution –but my hands and mind just wouldn’t co-ordinate. It didn’t come naturally to me and I failed my first hair test.
The tutor suggested maybe I had chosen the wrong career – and I was devastated. I was all fingers and thumbs but I was determined to prove them wrong. I practised all weekend, retook the test and passed. From then on, I learnt all I could, wanting to be the best I could be. That feeling has never left me and it instilled life-long passion, determination and love for the craft. It also began my love of education; some of the best teachers in the industry spent time with me to make me who I am today, and it’s now my turn to help the next generation.”
RUNNING
Training a new staff member can require a large investment of time for a salon or barber shop owner, but adding to your team through an apprenticeship programme can create a lot of benefits. National Apprenticeship Week takes place 6 to 12 February, so now is the ideal time to consider whether taking on an apprentice could be right for you.
According to apprenticeships.gov.uk, 78 per cent of employers responded that apprenticeships helped them to improve productivity.* They also boost morale as apprentices are often young people who are happy just to get a foot in the door. In fact, 90 per cent of apprentices stay at their company after having completed their course.*
Bringing in new staff can always help develop new perspectives and teach existing staff new ways of working.
Nearly three-quarters of employers said apprenticeships helped them to improve the quality of their service.* Given that the cost of taking on an apprentice is usually quite low, hiring one is a wonderful way to diversify your team and bring extra resources into your salon for a limited outlay.
As a small salon owner, it’s possible that an apprentice will be your only employee, but they don’t need to be a full-time commitment either.
Some businesses often share an apprentice with another business. You can have all the benefit of the extra labour from an apprentice for part of the week, but don't have the full-time commitment of training them and would split the paying of wages as well. This may be a great compromise for small salon or barber shop owners looking to take on a first apprentice.
In exchange for spending 20 per cent of their employed time on training and study, the National Apprenticeship Wage rate tends to be lower than your usual employee. And the government will often help pay for apprenticeship training.
As a small salon or barber shop, it’s unlikely that you’ll need to pay the apprenticeship levy, which means you’ll pay just five per cent towards the cost of training and assessing an apprentice, and the government will pay the rest up to the funding band maximum.
There may be additional funding or grants depending on where your salon is based as Scotland, England, Wales and Northern Ireland will have different support available.
But don’t forget, if you do bring on an apprentice, you’ll need employers’ liability insurance. If they’re subject to your supervision and control, they’re considered employees for legal purposes.
A SALON OR BARBERING BUSINESS IS HARD WORK, BUT AXA BUSINESS INSURANCE WANTS TO MAKE IT THAT LITTLE BIT EASIER…
MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… like most stylists! I’ve also got into a habit of wearing more casual clothing wear since the pandemic. I collected my last award with a hoodie on! But I promise I’m going to smarten up again this year.
MY JOB ENTAILS… Making people look and feel their very best.
I GOT HERE BY… Being consistent and passionate. Cutting hair is the only thing in my life where I’ve ever been both of those things. If I’m being honest, I don’t think I would even still be here if I didn’t have cutting as a skill set. It allowed me to keep going when times weren’t so good.
MY DAY CONSISTS OF… Learning, living and loving.
MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… I’ve recently bought into the hype of the JRL clippers I’ve been seeing everywhere. They’re actually a bit of a game changer!
MY DAILY FUEL IS… Positivity.
MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… Anything from hip-hop to Somalian jazz. Right now I’m playing a lot of Baby Keem, SAULT and obviously a bit of Drake. We’ve got quite a few playlists on Spotify – type in BLACC + BLOND and I’m sure there’s of something for everyone.
I’M ALWAYS PLANNING… To evolve perspectives and elevate taste levels.
WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Don’t ever get stressed. My mantra is: “If it’s out of your control, don’t stress about it. If there’s something you can do to help, do it.”
WHEN I GET STUCK I… Stop, breathe, go away and then come back to it. I’m sure that’s a song lyric, but either way, it works.
THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Smoking. I’m down to about two a day when I don’t drink, which isn’t bad. But it’s the 10 I have when I do drink that I need to cut out.
THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE Letting other people
THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… ‘Don’t move out of London’. Don’t get me wrong, it’s one of the best cities in the world. But living there can be draining and somewhat unsustainable. I’ve got a lot more balance to my personal life now I live in Birmingham.
MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE…
Offers from my favourite clothing brands!
MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE… Is self belief.
BY…
Being silent for 30 minutes, or just having my own space.
Let’s face it, dry shampoo rarely wows. From a at-looking nish to dusty product residue, it might cover up grease between washes, but do clients really love the result? Well, it’s all about to change. Dry shampoo has evolved, and bond-building pioneer OLAPLEX is leading the charge.
No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo, OLAPLEX’s rstever dry shampoo, promotes a healthy scalp for healthier looking hair. Going deeper, it detoxi es the scalp while absorbing oil, odour, and sweat – ensuring a better result for all hair types and textures. And as scalp care is one of the fastest-growing client concerns, this innovation taps into exactly what they want right now – a brilliant opportunity to grow your business.
Like other OLAPLEX products, No.4D is about restoring hair health. Employing the brand’s iconic multi-patented OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology, which instantly repairs damage and strengthens hair on a molecular level, No.4D counteracts odourcausing pollutants without clogging pores. Actively combatting odour instead of covering it up, scalps that use No.4D are purer and more nourished. Flakiness, build-up, and irritation are gone.
No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo follows the OLAPLEX philosophy of being non-toxic, cruelty-free, and vegan. Free from
sulphates, phthalates, parabens, and gluten, the formula illustrates how hair health and care are priorities. Inside are powerful, naturally derived ingredients including rambutan seed extract, a source of antioxidants that detoxi es and neutralises odour and pollutants while calming the scalp.
There’s also ultra- ne micro starch from rice, which aids oil absorption and leaves hair cleaner and without the undesirable build-up of other dry shampoo products. Hair looks lighter, shinier, fresher, achieving weightless results with no dullness. It’s all about renewal and that just washed feeling. All scalps can bene t, with the product cleverly adapting to all colour shades with no dusty after-effect.
Now when clients talk about their greasy hair woes you can recommend a product that works, without any nasty powder or grit left behind. No.4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo has received two thumbs up in clinical consumer tests, with 100 per cent of consumers reporting no white residue, while 97 per cent said they saw oil reduction and hair looking clean.*
So, next time clients come calling for a dry shampoo that covers hair between washes while improving its health, be ready. With OLAPLEX, scalps are de nitely in the right hands.
OLAPLEX NO.4D CLEAN VOLUME DETOX DRY SHAMPOO, AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTOR: ASTON & FINCHER, CAPITAL HAIR & BEAUTY, SALLY BEAUTY, SALON CONCEPT, SALON PROMOTIONS, SALONS DIRECT, AND XPERT PROFESSIONAL, OR BUY ONLINE AT UK.OLAPLEX.COM
GIVE CLIENTS WHAT THEY WANT WITH
Whether you are aware of it or not, your emotional state will be impacting how you react to the daily trials and tribulations of being a business owner. My biggest lifesaving lesson has been learning how to pause between the action and my reaction.
THE LAUNCH OF a business is like the launch of a rocket ship. It needs a great deal of energy to get it off the ground and the odds are stacked against you. Every day you fear you will lose it all. You struggle with impostor syndrome most likely because you are, in fact, an impostor. With no business education or experience, you’re often making it up as you go along.
Salon owners will know where I’m coming from, because that, my dears, is what they call ‘entrepreneurship’.
It’s hard to imagine doing something out of character when you are of sound mind. But the launch of a business puts you through sleep deprivation, high anxiety and being unable to ‘turn off ’; soon enough you feel like your personality is no longer ‘you’. And it’s not just the launch that can be emotionally and physically traumatising. Things can go south at any time and leave you living in a constantly anxious state of fight or flight.
How does a leader in such a state operate? Are they making good decisions that their team members all support? Are they reacting in a fair and reasonable way – one that creates a culture of safety? Or are they in the grip of pure exhaustion and not thinking as their rational self?
When you work from such a mentally precarious state you simply can’t react in a measured way. But a measured way is the key to success of your business. High stress pushes you further into your unconscious emotional state. Sudden emotions such as hurt, anger, disappointment can cloud your judgment. But you need to remember that you have no responsibility to answer anyone in the moment that it comes up. It is with a little extra time that you can separate yourself from first responses to a fully considered answer.
So, give this a try, my ‘Ask, Acknowledge, Pause and Get Out’ technique.
Let’s say you are in a team meeting and someone throws you a curveball by saying they want you to change something immediately – for example moving the reception –which feels really unreasonable to you.
Your mind is filled with the unhelpful chatter of ‘are you kidding me? After I just gave her a raise? Where will the money come from? Does she even know how much that will cost and how hard I’m already working?’.
A not-so-good leader would say what first comes to their mind: “Are you kidding? We don’t have money for changes like that now.”
An okay leader may say what’s on their mind in a polite and appropriate way:
“I’m sorry, there really is no budget for big changes like that.”
A good leader would:
Ask: “Okay, can you tell me more about this?”
Acknowledge: Thank them for the feedback and find out more; focus not on the request, but on the problem behind it.
Pause: “I’m going to take some time to think this through and we can chat again next week. If anyone has and thoughts on this my office door will be open.”
Get Out: End the conversation.
Colour waste is a financial black hole for salons – as are missed services. Vish’s stellar software tackles both, helping salons get the profits they priced for… and more!
They say you can’t rush art – and colour is one of the salon’s greatest art forms. Stylists armed with brushes are the artists, and clients are their canvas. But art can come with a hefty price tag. Stocking colour is expensive, and stylists can waste both product and money by failing to accurately measure colour amounts per service. With salons pouring away some 40 per cent of the colour they’ve paid for, it’s time to get colour waste under control – and get salons the pro ts they deserve.
What are salon owners doing about colour waste? Some may hope their stylists will mix the right amount next time but smarter ones use Vish, the innovative colour management software that dials down on waste, stems lost costs and raises salon revenue. If your colour costs are starting to run, let Vish’s smart technology do the heavy lifting. It tells salons how much colour stylists are using and what is wasted per session. The formula is then recalibrated, so the stylist uses the correct amount next time, helping salons become more sustainable as well as saving money. Sounds a bit technical? The Vish app is anything but. Built in a user-friendly format, it features a teardrop that lls as colour is added to the bowl – ideal for technophobes and visual learners.
Colour waste isn’t the only thing affecting salon pro ts. Missed services, such as forgetting to add a toner or conditioning treatment to a client bill, also leave salon owners out of pocket and stressing over margins. But if you look after the pennies, the pounds look after themselves. Vish found that recording all missed salon services boosts revenue by 15 per cent. Luckily, Vish adds all services automatically to its front desk app, so there’s no headache tracing them. Vish is all about helping salons price their offerings correctly – if a service needs an additional bowl of colour, Vish captures this. Without Vish it often fails to make the bill, leaving salons down on stock and pro ts.
A day in the salon can feel like a whirlwind with stylists jumping from client to client. Salons should always be busy, but pro ts should never suffer. Vish is more than a measuring scale; it takes the pressure off stylists, letting them create their art without worrying about the bill or wasting colour, so salons can run a tighter control on stock and deliver even better customer service. Beyond stopping colour waste and tracking bills, Vish’s whipsmart software ensures salons charge the right price for the work delivered, generating pro ts that are yours, by right.
READY TO STEM YOUR COLOUR CRISIS? VISIT GETVISH.CO.UK
@VISHSALONSUK
FEWER PEOPLE ARE TAKING UP HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING APPRENTICESHIPS – AND WITH THE RISING COSTS OF DOING BUSINESS, SALONS ARE STRUGGLING TO JUSTIFY THE EXPENSE OF TAKING THEM ON. AS NATIONAL APPRENTICESHIP WEEK COMES AROUND (6 TO 12 FEBRUARY), CREATIVE HEAD SPEAKS TO BUSINESS OWNERS WHO ARE MAKING THEM WORK
APPRENTICESHIPS – THE WORD may produce groans from salon and barber shop owners who already have enough on their plates. Energy prices, talent shortages as stylists go freelance, and high rates for VAT-registered businesses may make them seem an expense too far.
But fewer apprentices could cost the industry dearly. According to a 2022 NHBF report entitled ‘Careers at the Cutting Edge’, if the drop continues as projected then
by 2025, there’ll be fewer than 3,400 hair and beauty apprentices starting in England. Salons and barber shops have traditionally offered training centres for future talent and stand as a bulwark against crash courses that aren’t producing the same quality of candidates. Apprenticeships also benefit the apprentice as a route into hairdressing; helping them learn on-the-floor skills that can’t be gained in a classroom, in limited work experience, or as a freelancer.
ENA, A PEOPLE-FOCUSED SUSTAINABLE SALON, IS LOOKING FOR ESTABLISHED STYLISTS TO JOIN ITS DYNAMIC AND INCLUSIVE TEAM. COULD YOU BE THE NEXT STAR TO JOIN ITS CARING CREW?
What gives off the warm, fuzzy feels in the salon? Happiness can look like different things to different stylists, but there are some essentials most of us want. How about a friendly close-knit team or a vibrant learning culture? Ful lment on the oor shouldn’t be a pipe dream; at Ena in London’s Holborn it’s a reality… and Ena is on the hunt for senior stylists to help the salon keep to its high standards.
Focusing back to the fundamentals of hair, Ena seeks experienced hair creators with established success to boost its team. Diversity runs through the brand’s ethos, like a home where everyone is warmly welcome, including stylists looking for full-time employment as well as more exible arrangements. Ena’s sustainable message is genuine; hair products are free from harmful chemicals, with no pushy sales agenda when it comes to retail. As the UK agship salon for Davines, a hair brand encouraging people to take care of themselves and the environment, Ena stylists work with products that have real impact. The salon vibe is natural, laid-back luxe, making it a haven of relaxation and exceptional services for guests, and a safe space for stylists to deliver stellar work.
A career with Ena is for those searching for the essence of hair styling. But Ena is also for the mindful, for talent that respects real teamwork and caring for colleagues, while always learning and making a difference to clients… and do it all with an eye on being pro-planet. As with any great salon, your work takes centre stage. Could this be your new home?
ENA’S FIVE PILLARS MAKE IT AN INCLUSIVE AND INSPIRING PLACE TO WORK. IS IT WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING FOR? ENA IS…
• A safe space to feel appreciated
• All about growth – and internal education opportunities
• Supportive – with access to therapists for personal needs
• A workplace that values exibility and freedom – it offers employment security and individual work/life balance
• Great for career opportunities – Ena and sister brand, innovative education platform Allilon, offer more variety in roles
WHETHER IT’S A sign in the shop window or via word of mouth, don’t rely on a single way to find apprentices, says Anderson Boyce, founder of barber shop Hairforce1. “We use social media, online recruitment sites, and school recruitment fairs. But the most successful is word of mouth,” he explains.
Young people could get inspired by a social media post that shouts about your salon and what it can offer them. “We have an engaged Instagram, and have used this platform to advertise successfully,” explains Jo Barker, co-owner of YOKE The Salon.
Schools aren’t massive advocates of hairdressing or barbering careers, but they are still a source of talent, says salon owner Brian Leo McCallum: “We make ourselves known to local schools, so if there are leavers wanting to join a salon as an apprentice, they know where to look.”
Want to find committed apprentices? Mike Taylor, founder of Bonds Barbershops and chief executive at Mike Taylor Education, says keeping the recruitment process professional weeds out the less determined. He recommends using the government website, apprenticeships.gov.uk/employers, as “it matches you up with possible apprentices in your area”. He likes that the onus is on the apprentice to reach out, by sending an email and CV.
As part of its ‘Not Just A Hairdresser’ campaign, which included TV advertising during E4’s The Big Blow Out, The Industry also offers a listing that salons wanting apprentices can sign up to – find out how at creativeheadmag.com/not-just-a-hairdresser. The campaign highlights the incredible careers on offer, prompting anyone interested to search out more information and local salons and barber shops wanting apprentices.
MANY ARE WATCHING the pennies and cost increases are biting. However, apprentices’ wages are usually lower than your average employee. If they’re aged 16 to 18 or aged 19 and over in their first year, they’ll be on the National Minimum Wage rate for apprentices, which was £4.81 as of April 2022. From April this year, the rate increases to £5.28. If they are 19 or over and have completed their first year, they’ll be entitled to NMW for their age group.
Apprentices can put money in the till earlier. Brian says speeding up training helps. “We offer in-house training alongside their NVQ qualifications. Instead of waiting until they have completed their Level 3, we get them on the floor following their Level 2. Then they are qualified stylists and work on the salon floor while completing our graduate stylist programme and working towards their Level 3. They can take on their own clients and begin to generate revenue.”
NAHID MORTUZA, HEAD OF HAIR AND BEAUTY AT INSTITUTE FOR APPRENTICESHIPS AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION, EXPLAINS WHY APPRENTICESHIPS REMAIN A VALUABLE RESOURCE
“IN HAIRDRESSING, there’s a strong culture of professionals being taught by highly skilled experts who hand down skills and experience. That’s how apprenticeships work, so they’re in keeping with how the sector has always trained people. By the end of their apprenticeship, each apprentice is fully occupationally competent, and not just in cutting and styling, but in interpersonal skills too. Also, compared with the wider labour market, apprentices are far more loyal to employers, as they have that personal affinity to the organisation that trained them.
“Apprenticeship standards will be far more inclusive, covering all the different hair types. Future hairdressers will be equipped to better promote their salon and themselves via social media channels too – it’s a holistic package. There’s a strong adult learner cohort that comes into it too. Older apprentices already have work experience even if it’s in other sectors, both older and younger apprentices have different skillsets to offer.”
A POOR JOB FIT IS LIKE A BAD DATE – AND ONE THAT CAN LAST FAR TOO LONG. COULD SALON SCOUT, AN INNOVATIVE NEW JOBS SERVICE BY HAIRDRESSERS FOR HAIRDRESSERS,
Hair stylists lead with their hearts – who else can say that with conviction? But the creative flame that burns brightly on the salon floor can fizzle out when scrolling through the same old job sites, as you search for a new artistic home.
For salon owners after talent, and job-hunting stylists alike, traditional job boards just don't cut it. They’re bland, they’re boring – and they fail to find the right matches.
Salon Scout offers a new, better way – and one that’s more in-line with the creativity and passion of the hairdressing industry. Do you want to know more?
As salon owners themselves, Salon Scout founders Charlotte Barker and Kirsty Hildreth know that good relationships can make a salon blissful. Because choosing the right fit is essential, its super-visual platform helps salon owners easily find applicants that match their requirements. Not everyone is an IT whizz, so everything is clear and friendly to use.
Bank account looking a little depleted from over-spending on rubbish job sites? The good news is that Salon Scout’s subscription service is more affordable than other sites.
Don’t worry about getting sucked into longterm payments – you can subscribe for as long as you’re looking!
Hairdressers don’t see in black and white – and Salon Scout knows that. What it offers is a more visual moodboard, where stylists after jobs can build an eye-catching portfolio of their best work, meaning they save time by swerving trade tests, which speeds up the process.
For stylists looking for that romantic job connection, there’s a real breadth of roles available on Salon Scout, from hair stylist to barber, salon manager, and front-of-house positions. Apprentices, the industry’s future showrunners, can also find the best salon fit to start their journey with a tailored subscription. Salons – the busy beautiful places they are – often need feet on the floor ASAP. And with many salons facing stylist shortages today, this is even more vital. Here, Salon Scout works as it ensures that job posters find their matches fast, and get the hiring ball rolling. By building a vibrant profile, stylists can also fast-track their employment by really getting across who they are and what they’re capable of, helping salon owners decide if they’re ‘the one’. There’s no messing around.
Hiring shouldn’t be so difficult. Through a more holistic approach, Salon Scout offers great matches that create better long-term unions. A recruitment platform that really has its finger on the pulse of the industry, neither salon owners nor stylists will be swiping left on this one.
IS HEADACHE-INDUCING HIRING BREAKING YOUR HEART? VISIT SALONSCOUT.UK OR CONTACT INFO@SALONSCOUT.UK TO SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THE PERFECT MATCH
YOUNG TALENT IS in short supply. Some are taking brief courses and going straight into freelance careers, while others are being put off hairdressing and barbering due to negative views about the industry as a ‘last resort’. The dial has shifted towards older apprentices.
Candidates on their second or third career help bring transferable skills and experience. “I don’t want to take apprenticeships away from kids,” says Mike. “But older apprentices are better at customer service. I’ve taken on a 42-year-old and their customer service and life skills are already there.” Older apprentices might face a salary cut compared with what they used to earn, so pay transparency matters. “They might Google something about barbers making £70,000 a year in London, and that’s just not the case.”
Mike’s 42-year-old apprentice had set savings aside to start the apprenticeship, showing how ideal a realistic and committed older apprentice is. The commitment they can bring by being willing to switch careers in the first place could be a game changer, and their greater workplace experience means they’re likely to complete training faster.
OFFER APPRENTICES EXPERIENCE in a supportive environment, and they will be a boon. Leave them unattended and they’ll become a burden. At Laura Ott’s Hair Ott salons, mentorship matters. “We regularly hold oneto-ones with apprentices, and they have a mentor to go for coffee with once a month. The mentor supports them and everything they discuss is confidential.”
Giving apprentices responsibility is powerful. Show trust by putting them on the floor, says YOKE The Salon’s Jo. “We offer apprentices ad-hoc experience with clients, making them an important part of our services. The key is giving them a happy and hierarchy-free environment so that they can interact and form relationships with clients.” Including apprentices in training helps Jo and her team ensure they build their skillset. “We host training with industry creatives, and we include apprentices the same way as we do with the stylists – so they have models and are hands on.”
Apprentices can become loyal employees grateful for the skills investment they’ve received. They can also be that extra pair of hands to boost your customer service and their costs can be redeemed by upping their training – getting them ready to offer paid services faster.
An apprentice trained within your business will also align with your branding, culture and mission, making them the sort of team member every business owner wants – no matter the sector.
It’s all about adding talent to your team, long term. If managed properly, they will stick around, agrees Mike – one of his own has risen through the ranks to become a senior barber in his Bournemouth shop. “It’s better to train your own staff and have your own team working in your own brand the way you want it to be run.”
Hair is a busy business. Despite the hurdles in this rocky economic landscape, when recruited and managed properly apprentices can be the route to a more prosperous future –filled with loyal, upskilled staff who are in it with you for the long haul.
DREW UDALL HAS been cutting hair since he left school; being a hairdresser was all he ever wanted to be. “But I was unsure if I would be able to do it,” he admits. Because in an industry that’s about communication and relationships, Drew was concerned that being deaf would stymie his chances of doing what he loved successfully.
“I slowly built my clientele over a long period of time and I have never let my deafness stop me. I just had to believe I could do it,” he says. And done it he most certainly has; Drew is now the proud founder of Drew Udall & Co in Newport, a thriving salon that boasts a strong client base.
It’s not easy, but nothing worthwhile ever is. “Sometimes it can be challenging for my customers to understand me, but I’ve learnt so many communication skills over the years that I can usually find a way to express myself well,” he says.
“My first language is British Sign Language, which uses signs, facial expressions and lip reading. Working one-to-one with my clients, I’m very visual in my communication and able to use my lip-reading skills well.”
Creating his salon was the realisation of a vision, one of an amazingly spacious and peaceful environment for customers to feel comfortable and relaxed, with a
calming atmosphere. That goes for the team, too. “It’s important for me that all the stylists here have the same ethos and aim for our clients,” explains Drew. “Working in a busy salon as an employee can feel like working in a factory at times. Loud music, clients booked in back-toback and little control over a diary can all be sources of anxiety. I decided to create a different kind of space, more like a lounge at home, where clients can relax.”
The salon concept is for guests to be in a space that feels tranquil and undisturbed, enabling stylists to dedicate their full attention to appointments. There’s no salon phone, and walk-ins are politely discouraged where possible. A bold move, but it’s working.
Now that the salon is established, Drew’s ambitions for the year ahead include education and giving back to an industry that he has so much passion for. “I’d love the salon to become a centre of excellence for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris colour and cutting skills, used as a venue for hosting high-quality training courses that advance skills and knowledge in current trends,” he says.
It’s a dream come true for that doubt-ridden school leaver, and a testament to the power of positive thinking and true grit.
It’s looking tough out there in 2023: inflation running high, a cost of living crisis and still we can’t find enough hairdressers to join our industry. But when the going gets tough, the tough take a laser focus to their business. Meet five entrepreneurs who’ve taken risks to keep themselves ahead of the game
As a profoundly deaf hairdresser, Drew Udall knew his choice of career wouldn’t be easy, but his passion fuelled him to succeed @drewudallhair
Turning to Instagram to promote her curl specialist salon has transformed Nuala Morey’s business
@nualamoreysalon
NUALA MOREY NEVER SET out for her eponymous Bristol salon to specialise in curls. That happened organically as, having witnessed too much damage from the use of straighteners over the years, she gradually persuaded clients to work with their natural waves and curls and adapted her college-taught cutting techniques to create the results she wanted. Pretty soon, people started coming because they wanted her curly haircuts. She trained the team, “and now that’s pretty much all we do”.
Initially, new clients came through word-of-mouth recommendations, but it was when Nuala started posting some of her work on Instagram that she noticed how clients were coming from further afield. “Every week, people would arrive with their suitcases,” she says. “I suddenly realised the power of Instagram and started planning out my content to show before-and-afters of natural curls, talking about products and demonstrating looks on myself.” The results were astonishing. Without any advertising spend whatsoever, Nuala’s Instagram grew from 40,000 followers in January 2021
to 104,000 currently, attracting a global audience looking for curly hair knowledge – mostly women in the UK and US aged between 25 and 44. And they are happy to spend: having set up an online shop during lockdown to keep her business afloat, retail sales grew from £55,259 in 2020/21 to £242,931 in 2021/22, with £102,255-worth of retail sold through Instagram alone.
“Because of Instagram, before clients even come to the salon they feel they know me,” says Nuala. “Some treat me like a proper celebrity, jumping up and down, clapping and asking for pictures. It’s overwhelming but it shows how passionate people are about their hair and it’s really rewarding to see how happy they are.”
Although she readily admits she’s no Instagram pro, Nuala has worked out where her bread gets buttered on social media. “Instagram Live is my main content,” she explains. “I promote beforehand via a Post and Story to get people excited and a few hundred join from all over the world. An hour doesn’t give me enough time to get through all the questions they ask, and when I promote products my online shop blows up.”
Despite this success, Nuala, like many others, isn’t entirely comfortable being in front of the camera. “I don’t like the way I look and sound, but I know that the information I deliver is clear and concise and people enjoy it – so I just get on with it. I haven’t done presentation training, I’m just me.”
1. Sundays are a good time to post.
“Either at 10am when people are still in their pyjamas, or at 4pm when they’re back in from the dog walk and settling down for the rest of the day”
2. Think about what’s in people’s pockets.
“To boost retail sales, post just after pay day – it really drives online sales”
3. Make the most of the professional difference.
“I’m successful on Instagram because my content is organic and relatable; as a hairdresser I know what I’m doing and how to teach those skills”
Nicholas Nicola is reimagining the department store hair salon with his luxurious, full-service Allertons brand @allertonsonline
YOU MIGHT EXPECT the man who’s taken his Allertons brand from a single tiny salon to a rapidly growing empire within the John Lewis group to have business qualifications aplenty. But Nicholas Nicola learnt everything he needed to know selling luxury beauty to customers in department stores such as Harvey Nichols, Debenhams and Selfridges.
He maxed out three credit cards and worked two other jobs to fund his first salon – tucked away in a Victorian arcade in the centre of Leeds that, as it turned out, was too small to make a profit. But thanks to his beauty connections, he filled his business with luxury brands such as Anna Sui, Caudalie and Shu Uemura Art of Hair – ranges that no other stores in Leeds had at the time – and it quickly became Treatwell’s highest rated salon outside of London.
So, when Nicky Clarke’s Leeds salon closed in 2016, Nicholas pounced. Here was a premises that charged exactly the same rent as his existing salon – but was 11-times the size. At last, he could fill it with staff and provide the kind of hair and beauty services that would leave clients feeling truly pampered. From hairdressing and make-up to massages and skincare, within three years this new Allertons full-service salon experience had exploded.
And then lockdown hit. “Covid was good for me,” says Nicholas. “I’d gone from five chairs in my first salon to 13 in my current one and at the time of the first lockdown I was looking to expand again. So, when I heard the news that Regis had gone into administration, I emailed John Lewis to enquire
about the salon in its Leeds store. It took months for them to get back in touch but when they did, they were interested.”
Six months of intense negotiations followed, complete with covert meetings instore as Regis was still operating at the time. When an agreement was eventually reached, John Lewis gave Nicholas just six days to move into the salon, which featured eight sections, three backwashes, three manicure stations, three treatment rooms, a shower and a relaxation room, prompting frantic shopping trips to the wholesalers. In its last week of trading in John Lewis Leeds, Regis took £500. At the end of the first week at the same site, Allertons had taken £8,000.
So, what’s the secret to his success? “You’ve got to give people experiences, services and reasons to want to come in,” says Nicholas. “The Allertons client is a department store client – someone who’s willing to pay for quality. But the overriding factor is that they should feel comfortable. We’re not trendy on purpose – you won’t see famous faces on our Instagram or avant-garde styles in our salons. We’re premium, but we’re approachable.”
At Allertons you’ll never find more than one person behind the reception desk (too many people is intimidating when clients walk in); there’s a free consultation for every service on offer; and staff will never assume the customer’s concerns or budget. “It’s about truly listening and empathising with the client, then adapting our recommendations and applying our skills to deliver the solution,” says Nicholas.
‘The Allertons Way’ is partly down to Nicholas’ impeccable training at Estée Lauder all those years ago, but also a response to how salons have made him feel in the past – and it’s been key to the brand’s enormous growth and the productivity of the team. He built his website and app so that the client feels like they’re being taken by the hand and guided through the experience. All incoming calls across the group are handled by a team of three, ensuring a friendly, recognisable voice every time.
“Nicholas’s entire brand and operations are driven by emotional intelligence and the power of human connection,” says brand creator and beauty expert Tracey Woodward, who’s been working with Allertons since the summer of last year. “At a time when people feel lonely and isolated, Allertons offers a feeling of safety and community.”
Unsurprisingly, John Lewis wants more. A second Allertons is already in place at its Nottingham branch (fittingly slap-bang on the shop floor of the beauty department, in between Nars, Elemis and Tom Ford), and there are discussions about another eight to follow. “John Lewis has recognised that the glamour of hair and beauty services is integral to the growth of its own business,” says Tracey.
Adds Nicholas: “And no matter what the business climate is right now, I believe it’s time to step up, not step out.”
“There is great brand alignment with Allertons, and the salons are fantastic additions to our Nottingham and Leeds branches, with sta who provide excellent service to customers, and a range of treatments that continue to be really popular”
LUCY HOOPER, SERVICES LEAD
JOHN LEWISThe Allertons salon in John Lewis, Leeds
1. Embrace exible working and a healthy work/life balance for the individual. “This has to be created by openly discussing not only the needs of the business, but also the needs of the individual.”
2. Offer higher wages to make the individual feel their skills are valued, with uncapped commission allowing them to earn whatever they would like. “It’s crucial to control the company’s wage structure, but we must pay higher wages to compete with other sectors.”
3. Understand the career stages that staff go through, from apprentices to the most senior roles. “The individual may need more time, money, exibility, time off and then a career push again. This needs to be an open dialogue between you and the team member.”
Joe Hemmings’ ‘people before pro ts’ approach at Bloggs Salons is paying dividends for his business – and his mental health
FOR THE FIRST few years, as he was building his two Bloggs Salons in Bristol and the business started to become successful, Joe Hemmings admits he was “chasing the money”. As the boss, he believed the money in the business was there to provide him with a certain lifestyle – a new car, a new home, holidays, and so on. But he was working 12-hour days, constantly having to deal with staff issues, and life was stressful.
Having kids was a turning point: “Our eldest daughter has learning difficulties and we were constantly being told what she wasn’t able to do, while at the same time we knew what happiness she was giving us,” says Joe. “That made me start to appreciate people more for who they are, and I began to see my team in a different light – as people who could make a real contribution to the business.”
Joe redefined his role to that of a modern business leader/ coach, rather than someone who just looked at numbers and spreadsheets. “How you treat your team is as important as how much profit you make,” he says. “In fact, if you get the right people in the right places, then the profit will naturally be there, but for far longer.”
Joe’s investment in his team is all-encompassing. Twice a year he meets with every member of staff to discuss life and career goals, resulting in a tailored career path for each individual. Staff rotas are painstakingly constructed around people’s personal lifestyle choices – for some it’s a two-hour lunch break so they can go to the gym; for others it’s an early start or a late finish to fit in with family life; Bloggs has been closed on Saturdays for years. And the pay structure has changed too: now Joe shares the money around the team, meaning they get paid more – many team members are now on £35,000 or more a year while he gets paid less than before. But he’s reaping the rewards in more ways than one.
“We are inundated with people wanting to train with us as apprentices, and our senior management, education and artistic roles have all been filled through in-house promotions,” he says proudly. “By listening to the team we have the right people who are respected and trusted to carry out certain roles, whether that’s specialising in extensions or keeping an eye on stock levels. Playing to people’s strengths and giving them responsibilities they actually want has kept the team engaged with Bloggs and accelerated our business performance.”
As for Joe, he only cuts hair two days a week now, spending the other three days with his team. “Talking and listening to your team is so important,” he says. “It could be just a chat as the kettle boils or a more in-depth conversation in a nearby coffee shop, but that dialogue is vital and your business will be better for it. My team has ideas that are way better than mine on how things should be done. The business is in great shape and on a personal level I’m the happiest I’ve ever been.”
SALON64’s Ricky Walters offers the freedom of freelancing with the listening ear of a manager. Welcome to the world of ‘freeployment’
@salon64london
RICKY WALTERS IS a born entrepreneur. His unique SALON64 concept –a social hub where patrons can meet, retreat, work and enjoy a range of pampering services – was conceived walking round London and feeling bored with the traditional salon concept. Instead, inspired by the organised gatherings of the original French salon, SALON64 focuses on the art of conversation, with stunning interiors complete with fire pits and cocktail bars offering a home from home to some of the capital’s busiest socialites.
Now Ricky’s turning his eye to the needs of his 25-strong workforce – a mix of employed and self-employed stylists, colourists and extension specialists who want something different from their careers.
“The industry has changed so much,” says Ricky. “When I was an assistant, it was automatically assumed that I would become employed and spend my days trying to earn the best commission that I could. Then freelancing came along and I was able to take advantage of that with SALON64 and new opportunities we could offer our team. But during lockdown people reflected, and they have returned to work motivated less by money and more by wanting to find personal happiness and wellbeing.
“Obviously, co-working spaces provide a functional space for freelancers to work, but as they’re surrounded by other stylists who are effectively their competition, they have no-one to bounce ideas off or seek advice from. That’s where we spotted the gap. Freelancers don’t want to be managed, but they do
miss the mentorship that they used to get from their salon owner or manager when they were employed.”
Ricky’s new offering is Creative Consultancy, whereby he and his senior management team – experts in PR, management and social media – offer a structured brand strategy programme to staff members, designed to help each individual navigate their working life and grow their business. An initial meeting comprises an open conversation around goal-setting, assessing where the individual is right now and where they want to be. Everything is written down, with clear targets set by the mentor – Ricky calls it a ‘success strategy’. The individual is fully accountable for the recommendations, with a follow-up review held a few months later.
“What people want from life and from their business is changing all the time,” says Ricky. “I’m an entrepreneur who’s launched several businesses and my experience speaks for itself. Our Creative Consultancy blends the best bits of freelancing with the best bits of employment – it’s why we talk about ‘freeployment’ or ‘me-lancing’ because nothing is black or white anymore.”
AN EASY-TO-USE SALON SOFTWARE SYSTEM WILL TRANSFORM YOUR DAY-TO-DAY LIFE AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. HERE’S WHAT IT’S DONE FOR THIS SALON OWNER…
@YIEBYOU
OPENED: 2020
LOCATION: YORK
FORMER SYSTEM: PEN AND PAPER
VIBE: RELAXING, WELCOMING, NON-JUDGMENTAL
Q: What pushed you to start yie.b.you?
I’m a Black stylist and, in my area, there aren’t enough people who know how to take care of Afro hair. I thought that if I had my own space people could feel more comfortable. When you’re dealing with braids or the odd relaxer, clients can feel surrounded with people looking at them. I thought that with my own salon, I can show that this is not abnormal, it’s part of Afro hair culture.
Q: What are you best known for?
I am known for textured hair, but I work with everybody as far as race and culture is concerned. Anybody can walk through my door. The thing is I’m not a stylist who has pigeon-holed herself, I take care of everybody. And I’m not shy to do that.
“THE VIBE OF MY SALON IS VERY RELAXING AND DEFINITELY WELCOMING. IT HAS A GOOD COMMUNITY FEEL TO IT AND IS NON-JUDGMENTAL”
SADIE BELLEH
Q: What would you say is one of the most positive changes to your life since embracing Slick?
It’s put a barrier between my work and free time. But it’s helped in other ways too; it offers great business support including education sessions, which I regularly attend. It’s about continuing to evolve as a salon and business owner, and Slick helps with that.
61% OF BOOKINGS TAKEN ONLINE 150 NEW CLIENTS FROM SOCIAL MEDIA AND GOOGLE MORE THAN £1K GENERATED A MONTH FROM ONLINE BOOKINGS ALONE
Q: How did you cope with booking pressures in the past?
Before I used Slick, I felt that there was no cut-off point with clients. People would contact me anytime they wanted. I was carrying my pen and paper diary with me everywhere. During days off when I was out with my family I had clients contacting me and I couldn’t look at my diary, so would have to get back in contact later. Now they can book online.
Q: What would you say to salon owners who are still using pen and paper?
If you value your personal time, then you need to move on to something more up-todate than a paper diary. Using Slick saves so much time and effort. Instead of going back and forth with messages and things like that, clients can go online and take care of their own appointments.
LEARN HOW TO WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER, WITH SLICK. SCAN THE QR CODE OR VISIT GETSLICK.COM/CREATIVE-HEAD FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK A DEMO
CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON AND BARBER SHOP OWNERS AND MANAGERS
“Salon Smart 2022 was a breath of fresh air – great quality speakers, thought-provoking content, and what an amazing venue!”
Monday 20 March 2023
9.15am-5.15pm
The Chain and Buoy Stores, London
Tickets £95 plus VAT*
Salon Smart HUB members pay £80 plus VAT
Book now at creativeheadmag.com/store
*Ticket price includes access to the full business agenda, all-day refreshments, lunch, Prosecco at the closing session, and a goody bag to take home. And you’ll get 24/7 access to our online, members-only business resource, the Salon Smart HUB. Terms and conditions apply
Solo talks
Panel debates
Interactive sessions
Problem-solving Q&A
Working Lunch
Non-stop networking
Prosecco + goody bag
MADDI COOK, BOSS YOUR SALON SPEAKER
COLIN MCANDREW, MEDUSA SPEAKER
ADAM REED, ADAM REED LONDON
SPEAKER
AFTER 30 YEARS WORKING IN SOHO, JOE MILLS IS TRANSPLANTING HIMSELF TO LONDON’S KING’S CROSS WITH A NEW CONCEPT, A NEW AGENCY, AND RENEWED PASSION… AND HE’S DONE IT ALL IN THREE MONTHS. CREATIVE HEAD’S AMANDA NOTTAGE STRUGGLES TO KEEP UP
“I’M EXPERIENCED IN doing refurbs. This ain’t my first rodeo,” chuckles Joe Mills from his new Woolf Kings X space, four days ahead of its official opening. Nope, this might not be his first time at setting up a new salon space, but this project forms an ambitious (and all-consuming) wider package of activity, and it’s had a punishing timeframe to match. The day before saw him leaving the building site and grabbing his kit bag to attend to Jamie Dornan for his appearance on The Graham Norton Show, and he’s been regularly working 16 hours or more a day to hit his launch date.
Situated in the Somers Town district in King’s Cross, the Woolf name alludes to the area’s association with literary great Virginia Woolf and the Bloomsbury Set. “They were mavericks, they pushed boundaries,” he explains, “it added up to the kind of values that we want to have here.”
Joe admits the location “adds to an energy”, with Coal Drops Yard, plush hotels and the tech quarter nearby, “but this area is still a bit edgy and has its moments, which reminds me of Soho in ’98”, he grins. There’s also a big community of residents too. “There’s such a diverse cultural melting pot around us. It feels far more vibrant and authentic.”
Known for his stellar session work with names such as musician James Bay, and actors Paul Mescal and Paul Dano, Joe has, for decades, balanced a phenomenally successful session career with his Soho based businesses The Lounge, Joe and Co barber shop and his own private studio. Then, last summer, Joe took a much-needed twomonth break. Suddenly he had time to think…
Covid had been brutal on Soho and its businesses. During the lockdowns Joe mentored other salon owners and stylists, helping them deal with the challenges they faced. Then The Lounge was hit by a catastrophic flood which saw it close for nine months.
“I sat there thinking: ‘Do I really want the stress at the shops anymore? Do I focus on session? What do I want to do? I can be quite
“I’M QUITE A RESTLESS CHARACTER. I’M ALWAYS PUSHING NEW PROJECTS OR LOOKING FOR NEW THINGS”
polarised in my thinking sometimes. And it’s obviously quite an extreme thing to do, to just go and shut down two successful businesses…”
But that’s precisely what he’s done. The Lounge needed a refurb that would require an investment of time and money. Would he benefit from doing that? Joe wasn’t convinced. “How much more can we eke out of that as a business? I looked at it coldly, and with all the other issues – landlords, utility bills and so on.”
Then fate dealt him a curveball. The ground floor and basement space underneath Joe’s King’s Cross home became available. He couldn’t shake what he’d read years ago about legendary ’60s hairdresser Leonard of Mayfair and his House of Hair. “I kept thinking I just want one space where I could do everything. Is that what I’m missing?” And so, once the decision was made to take on the space in September, there was no holding back. “I said if I’m going do it, it’s got to open in January, start the New Year with a new thing. And then we hit go.”
In the space of three months Joe has been juggling his session work and overseeing the build of Woolf Kings X, alongside a long-germinating idea to set up an agency for creatives. Both launched in January, while The Lounge and Joe and Co were closed on New Year’s Eve.
A Woolf product range is set for a March launch, with more than 30 items in the line-up. Mr Mills does not do things by halves…
The ventures are also informed by lessons learnt through his collaboration with Primark, which saw him partner on a co-branded barber space in a handful of its largest stores for a time, as well as introducing a MILLS x Primark product line. On the latter, he was part of every decision-making process, which in part feeds into what he’s now doing with his own planned Woolf range.
Joe describes it as “one of the most amazing learning experiences I’ve had in business”, and it made him realise what he had achieved, and what he was capable of. “I used to downplay some of my own abilities, as in to actually be able to sit at the table with Primark at a board level and talk about expansion. Being listened to made me acknowledge my own strengths and weaknesses,” he says. “It gives you
an understanding of where you fit in that world. It was transformative and made me realise that I can do a lot more than just cut hair.”
But why do everything all at once right now? “When you’ve been in the industry as long as I have – I’m 54 this year – you look around at your peers and you go: ‘Okay, what am I doing?’ I’m quite a restless character, I’m always pushing new projects or looking for new things,” he admits. He’s also honest about the effect the lockdowns and the flood had on his outlook. “I don’t think I realised the impact all that and the pandemic had on me, the amount of stress and drama, and just the uphill battle it was to get back on track,” he sighs.
Considering he’d been Soho based since joining the iconic Fish salon as a stylist in 1991, has it been a wrench to leave? “My working life has only ever been in Soho,” he says shaking his head at the realisation (although young Joe got his start as a Saturday boy in Margate). “I think it’s common for anyone invested in a brand or with their name above the door to feel identified by the space they inhabit. To almost become part of the furniture. And initially there was a fear of stepping out of that comfort zone.”
Joe also needed to be sure on an emotional level that he was ready to walk away. “When we closed the shops up for Covid, I cried, because I didn’t know what was coming,” he recalls. “You locked the door, you walked away, and you didn’t know when or if you were going to reopen.
“But this has been very different. On Christmas Eve I woke up early, drove into Soho on my own and spent time among the shuttered spaces and absorbed the energy. You can compartmentalise the good times, the bad times. And then I thought about King’s Cross, the new space, the opportunity that it’s giving me and lots of other people. I sat there and I found my peace.”
Indeed, the new space offers a creative hub for independent collaborative working that brings together all the elements of the industry Joe epitomises, while giving him the chance to do things different now that he has a blank slate. The two-floor space includes a courtyard and a private studio with its own entrance for celebrity clients. With a variety of rooms there are different zones for different services such as colour, alongside a photographic studio.
A key driver behind the hub is ensuring it’s a truly inclusive space. Joe introduced gender-free pricing at his businesses a few years ago, and he’s taking it to the next level. “As an industry, we’re meant to be pushing boundaries. We create, we move forward, we look for new inspiration, new ideas, yet a lot of the brands that sit alongside us don’t seem to be leading that conversation; big campaigns are still very gender specific. That’s a real shame,” he sighs. “I wanted to create my own narrative of what we’re doing and why. Having a 13-year-old son talk about stuff they’re learning, this is where the world is heading and it should be embraced.”
He points to a change in law in New York City, known as the ‘pink tax ban’ that outlaws prices that discriminate by gender. “A haircut’s a haircut. You’re charging by time, not by gender.” The team has spent a long time debating the correct vocabulary for Woolf and considering the skill sets
in use. He cringes at the term ‘male groomer’, even though it’s a label regularly used to describe him (“I can’t stand it,” he winces). “Barbering is a skill set, it’s not about the gender of the work you do. We use the terms lead barber, lead hairstylist and lead technician, because each of those denote a skill set. You may have someone who identifies as female, for example, who wants a barber-style haircut,” he says.
The Woolf space is also home to the HQ for his new Joe Mills Agency. At launch, it has just shy of 40 creatives on its books, including Charlie Cullen (who’s also Joe’s first if he’s unable to attend to any of his big-name clients), Ky Wilson, James Parr, and Andy Smith. It’s been an idea percolating for the best part of a decade (“I don’t like the way traditional agencies work, and I’ve never had one,” he says). His agency represents hair, make-up, fashion, styling, photography, video, creative directors and more.
Why has this been such a mission? He mulls over the question. “Sometimes when you talk to session stylists and freelancers, they feel that they don’t belong, almost a bit adrift,” he says. “When you’re in a team, working for a big brand or whatever, you know your role, where your place is and you’ve got people you can bounce ideas off. When I started talking about the agency, all these people wanted that kind of association.”
With the agency under the same roof as the salon and
studio, he envisions “an internal network of creatives that can feed off each other, and have support”. “We’ve got 22 stylists, barbers and colourists. And there’ll be high-end photographers, directors, fashion contacts coming in and out of the building where we can work and shoot,” he says excitedly. He’s already considering the possibility of an office in Los Angeles in the future, such is the breadth of his contacts book.
“The reason I never had an agent was, why would I give you the percentage of work that I’ve already got? The clients I’ve already built relationships with?” he asks. “We are going to completely disrupt the industry…”
This is where the Joe Mills Agency differs. It takes 20 per cent commission only on work the agency brings to the creative. It doesn’t manage their day-to-day, but it manages their portfolio, and hunts out work for them. Most agencies also charge a booking fee to the client as well as to the artist. “So, they’re charging you 30 per cent and 20 per cent on the other end – we don’t do that,” explains Joe. “It means that we can push creatives’ fees higher, because there’s no agency fee being carried across.”
He is repeatedly asked by young session stylists about the fee they should be charging. “It’s because people lose that guidance. I started mentoring because when you’re a business owner you’re often on your own, you carry your
burden alone. I’m fortunate in that I’ve got a great team who support me, and I support them as well.”
Part of the offering is also practical learning – when we speak, Joe is planning a skin workshop with James Parr. “I’m giving out more than traditional agencies. I’m going to sit down with you and go: ‘Okay, let’s work on your grooming skills or on skin, or I’ve got a couple of make-up artists who want to learn more about hair.’” It’s about delivering that elevated level of support, with an office team that also has experience working with magazines, PRs, publicists, photography libraries. It’s rethinking what an agency looks like for today’s freelance artists.
How does Joe keep all of those plates spinning, especially when he’s required to slot into the schedules of his big-name clients? Joe and his PA work closely with his top talents’ publicists to access rough schedules of film launches and press tours so he can plan when he might be needed for travel for concentrated periods. Alongside that, all the big events – think Baftas, the Met Gala – are diarised too.
He also heaps praise on his “super-supportive partner” and “amazing team”. “There’s a lot of trust,” he admits, “and we brainstorm about worst-case scenarios. What’s the exposure? How do we resolve it? Everything has always got a plan B and C. Now that doesn’t mean it always works! But everyone knows what their role is and is accountable.”
Is that the secret to a long and successful session career? No, it’s patience, he says – he’s been using #ItTakesMoreThan12Weeks on social media for years. “When I first started doing Instagram, that hashtag was based around getting a barbering NVQ in 12 weeks. But I think it’s become a motto for life. Everything takes time,” he muses.
He circles back to the idea of venturing outside his comfort zone. “I only ever did hair, then I had to learn how to do skin. That was completely alien to me. Now I can get my client ready in 15 or 20 minutes if I have to,” he says. “The first time I worked with Ben Affleck, I was bricking it. And then, it’s fine! It’s just like when I was 17 or 18, doing my first paying client on the shop floor, that same feeling of dread and the impostor syndrome. But you have to push past that.”
Commitment also plays its role. “Back in the ’90s, as well as hair I was DJing and running clubs – Saturday nights in Bagley’s and The Cross. If you spread yourself too thinly, are not focused on one goal, and if you don’t do it in the right way, it can bite you in the arse because you never really get the best out of anything,” he laughs.
“If I’m going to do it, I think: ‘How big can I get it?’ And then I map it out. I’m good at painting the big mural.”
FOR A VIRTUAL TOUR OF WOOLF KINGS X AND TO DISCOVER JOE’S FAVOURITE HAIR LOOKS FROM HIS CAREER, VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COMPaul Mescal
Flexing their fashion-forward editorial skills under the creative direction of Nick Irwin, the 2022 Schwarzkopf Pro UK&I Young Artistic Team showcases raw fi nishes and street-infused styling with a fresh take on wearable and authentic hair
PHOTOGRAPHY BY CHARLIE CUMMINGS
HAIR 2022 Schwarzkopf Pro UK&I Young Artistic Team (@skpyat): Max Andrea (@maxandreahair), Rhys Chiwara (@rhyschiwarahair_), Mark Hammond (@farahnazhairmarky), Zack Hammond (@zack_hammond_hair), Caitlin Trenholme (@caitlintrenholme_hair), Rebecca Niamh Watkins (@hairbyrebeccaniamh).
CREATIVE DIRECTION Nick Irwin (@nickirwinhair).
PHOTOGRAPHY Charlie Cummings (@charliecummings), assisted by Doma (@doma_dovgialo) and Chelsea (@cnawanga).
HAIR ASSISTANT Alastair Jubbs (@mrjubbs).
MODELS Hugh, Osob, Anya, Ralf, Nudumba (@antiagencyldn), and Mei (@bodylondon).
MAKE-UP Marco Antonio (@marcoantoniolondon).
SEE MORE OF THE SCHWARZKOPF PRO YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM SHOOT ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
A SALON TEAM IS OFTEN LIKE A FAMILY – ARE YOU READY FOR HOW THINGS WILL CHANGE WHEN YOU’RE IN CHARGE?
OPENING A SALON is a big career moment. But becoming the authority figure when once you were in the trenches with everyone else is a tricky transition. Taking control from the front requires a change in behaviour. Leaders will need to pull up their socks on business strategy and people management, including motivating their team and supporting their wellbeing.
Effective leadership is a balancing act. To achieve it, reach out to your team, says Katya Kim, leadership development consultant at WhizzMind, an organisation that helps leaders develop and retain talent. “Talk to them and be open,” she says. “What makes them excited at work? What is their favourite part of the day? What would they dislike in a manager’s behaviour? Why work for this company in the first place? What do they expect from your leadership?”
She adds that leaders need to think about how stylists of different ages might prefer feedback in different ways, and have diverse sets of goals which need to be listened to and incorporated into performance reviews.
Once you’ve spoken to your people, it’s time to look in the mirror and think about
what kind of a leader you want to be. Kim says: “What goals do you want to achieve? What are your strengths and what do you need to learn more about?”
When you’re working on the salon floor, you’re part of the gang. But you need to land on the correct behaviour for a senior role. Tina Hollis, who opened her first hairdressing business aged 25, says striking the boss/friend balance is key. The Lonely Boss Lady once feared rocking the boat with her staff, until she realised this wasn’t helping anyone, much less her business.
“Because I hadn’t got my leader game in order, staff issues were sorted with an informal chat in the hope it would plaster over everything,” she admits. “I was too scared to upset my team in case they went elsewhere, so I used to fill them with positivity and training on things I thought they’d like and avoid the things I really needed to discuss.”
Leading from the front is a two-way street, and top-down management won’t cut it. Ask your team to get involved. “Start a conversation about the ways of working and ask them to bring their ideas too. When teams have an impact on building culture, they feel valued and happier at work,” concludes Kim. “Have frequent catch ups, or one-to-ones – explain where you want to be as a business, and what you expect from your team to achieve that.”
Great leadership is no easy feat. It requires investment in you and your team, but once you’ve taken those crucial steps you’ll be leading with flying colours. Take it from Tina: “Leadership is about vision, you have the goal that you want to achieve for your business, but that’s a vision only you can see, so you have to persuade others to believe in your vision.”
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