Creative HEAD January 2018

£4.50 JANUARY 2018

In print•online•everywhere!

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– C I H C S UNIQUE I

E U Q I N H C E THINK T

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R I A H L L A NOT R IS CREATED U O L CO

L A U

CTOR E F R E P NIQUE H S C E T ESULT THE R .

T N S I E L K FOR ABY RED S Q T E S I S R SHADE COLOU T S I L Y IT USED B

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STAND OUT

WANT TO BANISH THAT BOX COLOUR FROM CLIENTS' BATHROOMS? REDKEN HAS THE FORMULA – TERRIFIC TECHNIQUES + GREAT COLOURISTS + SHADES EQ. IT’S SIMPLE – NO BOX CAN EVER BEAT THAT TRIPLE POWER OF PROFESSIONAL DIFFERENCE… In 2018, consumer awareness of techniques is set to grow. In the past, clients may have asked for highlights, when concepts such as balayage and contouring were but a twinkle in the colourist’s eye.

This is no longer the case.

IN 2017, THERE WERE OVER 1M GOOGLE SEARCHES FOR BALAYAGE* Professional techniques are now one of the biggest awareness drivers in the colour industry, fuelled by the increase in both consumers and professional influencers showcasing their techniques and looks on social media. This has arguably led to an increase in consumers becoming savvier than ever on what they demand from their colourist.

TECHNIQUES ARE ONE OF THE BIGGEST DRIVERS OF THE PROFESSIONAL COLOUR INDUSTRY Techniques in the hands of It-list colourists are what sets Redken apart from the competition. Combined with the unique finishing perfection of Shades EQ, you have the recipe for A-list results and colour success. So get ready to Shade the Nation and join the technique revolution with Redken.

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*Google Internal Search Data. During the period: Q3 2017 to Q4 2017, ‘Balayage’ was one of the top queries on search by volume for Haircolour, a category classified by Google. **Improvement in shine is shade dependent.

IT-LIST COLOURISTS WHO DEMAND THE BEST USE REDKEN SHADES EQ. NOW IT’S TIME YOU FOUND OUT WHY

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ONE OF A KIND

Redken Shades EQ offers demi-permanent colour without lifting hair. The formula is perfect to tone, refresh or correct, as well as blending up to 50 per cent white hair with a sheer result. With no ammonia, the gel formula respects the integrity of the hair and adds 100 per cent more shine** than before colouring for the glossiest A-list results. It’s time to elevate your colour technique to the next level with Shades EQ.

1.

2.

3.

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EVEN RESULTS, NO COMPROMISE no matter what hair you are working on

INCREDIBLE GLOSSY SHINE unlike anything in the market

ULTIMATE COLOUR FLEXIBILITY so you can personalise colour to each client with every service

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TECHNIQUE PERFECTION EVERY TECHNIQUE, EVERY COLOUR, EVERY CLIENT IS COVERED WITH SHADES EQ

Gracefully Grey

Millennial Mixer

CLIENTS KEEN TO GO GREY OR STUN IN SILVER?

CLIENTS BORED OF THEIR HAIR? New Shades EQ Pastel shades give ultimate colour flexibility for clients who want to keep changing their look.

Quick Fixer

CLIENTS SHORT ON TIME?

Celebrate and enhance naturally grey hair with new Shades EQ Silver shades.

With 20-minute development time, Shades EQ is perfect for clients who want a colour refresh in their lunch break.

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WHAT WAS I DOING BEFORE I USED REDKEN SHADES EQ? IT'S BEEN A GAME CHANGER FOR ME

JOSH WOOD, REDKEN GLOBAL COLOUR CREATIVE DIRECTOR AND MOST WANTED HAIR ICON 2016

SIMPLY THE TWO OF THE INDUSTRY’S WORLD-LEADING COLOURISTS REVEAL WHY THEY CAN'T LIVE WITHOUT SHADES EQ

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I HAVEN'T FOUND A GLOSS QUITE LIKE SHADES EQ. IT’S TRULY IN A CATEGORY OF ITS OWN. IT'S PERFECTION

’’

TRACEY CUNNINGHAM, CELEBRITY COLOURIST

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MAKE A STATEMENT

The power of Instagram is no secret, but did you know that Pinterest is fast becoming a growing search platform for consumers looking for professional colour techniques? Get inspired by Redken's Shades EQ pinboards on @REDKENUKI and discover the formulas you need to create the latest techniques. It’s the perfect place to start when chatting to clients about their colour goals, so get pinning today.

JOIN THE CONVERSATION!

Share your best Shades EQ techniques on Instagram using #SHOWUSYOURSHADES. Tag @REDKEN for a chance to be featured on Redken’s global Instagram page.

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#SHOWUSYOURSHADES

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#SHADESEQ

#REDKENTECHNIQUETIME

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ALWAYS ON

WITH THE LAUNCH OF ITS PASTEL AND SILVER SHADES, DISCOVER HO ON-TREND TECHNIQUES AND SHADES THAT C

Power Past els

POWER PASTELS Introducing four make-up-inspired shades, which caused an Instagram sensation, to create stylish pastel hues. Choose from Pastel Pink, Pastel Peach, Aqua Blue and Silver Green.

Silver Statements

SILVER STATEMENTS

Shades EQ has a range of eight silver, chrome and titanium shades that allow you to personalise natural grey hair and let clients unleash their #SilverHair.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ON TREND

COVER HOW SHADES EQ ELEVATES FOUR OF THE MOST POPULAR ES THAT CLIENTS CAN'T GET ENOUGH OF

Balaya

ge Blen ds

Get Glossed

BALAYAGE BLENDS

With a wide range of shades to perfectly tone and add incredible shine, no blonde or bronde should leave your salon without this service.

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GET GLOSSED

Make every service a colour service with Shades EQ Crystal Clear. Like a lip gloss for the hair, this will add stunning shine to any colour, including virgin hair.

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BE DIFFERENT. BE REDKEN. WANT TO BE PART OF A NEW-GENERATION COLOUR HOUSE? JOIN THE REVOLUTION AND CALL REDKEN FOR A BESPOKE COLOUR DEMONSTRATION

JOIN THE TRIBE TODAY – CALL 020 8762 4121 (UK) OR 01 6045918 (IRE) REDKEN.CO.UK

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REDKEN

REDKENUK

REDKENUKI

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CLUB club

.com/ g a m d a e h e iv t a cre The salon manager’s 2017 guide to business growth

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YOU’LL GET: • 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, Colour Forecast and Power Book – delivered to your door • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands

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Win a Guest Artist course, worth £255

AN OPPORTUNITY TO ATTEND A L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL COURSE, WORTH £255 To enter, simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD Club members will receive an email on 1 January 2018! If you win, you must book your course via L’Oréal Professionnel’s online learning hub, FOR E CREATIVUB Access, and attend the course by 30 April 2018.** D CL HEA MEMBERS ONLY

*For the first 25 new members to sign up between 1 January and 31 January 2018. **Subject to availability, no cash equivalent can be offered

YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N

RU N WAY

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W E LCOME TO THE ULTI MATE A M MONIA F REE HAI R COLOR EXPERI ENC E

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NEW OU R F I RST P E R MA N E N T H A I R CO LO R TH AT O F F E RS A S E L ECT IO N O F F RAG RA N C ES. TRANSFORM YOUR CLIENTS´SERVICE INTO AN EXCLUSIVE HAIR COLOR EXPERIENCE.

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ZEN MOMENT

TO TRA N S P O RT YOU TO A N E XOTIC SUN S E T.

TO TAK E YOU BACK TO YOU R SW E E T EST M E M O R I ES.

R E L AX AN D TAK E A D E E P B R E ATH

MORE THAN AN

AMMONIA FREE HAIR COLOR

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Tools that transform.

Reveal your strength with a female styling range designed by professionals for professionals.

Our Wahl Style Collection has been borne out of a desire to create a credible alternative for professional stylists.

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Editor’s letter It always struck me that for a man who played such an enormous role in changing the face of modern, high street hairdressing, Toni Mascolo was just so, well, nice. He was proud of his achievements with Toni&Guy, yes, but he wasn’t a proud man, there was no hint of ego. I would hear how even as he entered his 70s, he would still see clients, taking in his packed lunch for the day ahead. Toni’s death, just before Christmas, is heartbreaking, for his family, the Toni&Guy community and indeed the industry as a whole.

He will be missed, but his warmth and his impact will never be forgotten.

Thank you, Toni.

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JOIN US! EVERY NEW YEAR’S DAY we set unrealistic goals that often serve to make ourselves feel like failures when we invariably haven’t stuck to them. So, I’m going to make a resolution that I think is actually doable with a little effort and thought, and I urge you to join me in making it also: we won’t be mediocre. I resolve that Creative HEAD and its events and digital brands will not deliver anything dull, rehashed or average. I resolve that we will fill our pages with the practical and the inspirational, content that will serve to help elevate our industry at a time when it needs it most. We won’t run photographic collections that perpetuate a tired aesthetic and say nothing to the client that’s actually bringing money into a salon. We will help and support you to grow your business, to excite your team, to experiment and try new ideas.

Look out over 2018 for new launches from us and fresh initiatives that are laserfocused on making a real impact on this wonderful industry (check out page 53 for news of the British Beauty Council, by the way). Read our Review of 2017 and Preview of 2018, see what visionary names have done and are doing, and think about what YOU can do to make mediocrity a dirty word in your salon. If you don’t, January 2019 might look very bleak indeed...

Amanda Nottage Editor

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

WELCOME TO 2018, a busy and bumper year of Creative HEAD events! If you have a Most Wanted or It List trophy in your sights, there’s not long to wait – the competitions launch on 1 March. Want to take control of your business?

Book tickets NOW to Salon Smart! Our brilliant business networking event takes place 25 to 26 March and will feature our most stellar line-up EVER. The Coterie is back on Monday 29 January – get set for a fascinating debate on creative rituals, hosted by London College Fashion’s Tony Glenville.

And, while you’re online getting tickets, check out our Creative HEAD events movie showcase – featuring 2017’s coolest video moments. Visit creativeheadmag.com/events

@creativeheadmag

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January WHAT’S INSIDE REVIEW/PREVIEW

FASHION

Hair legend Paul Merritt reveals a new collection

44

ON THE COVER Hair by Redken

We showcase the highlights of 2017 and what to look forward to in 2018

FREE INS IDE 2 0 1 8

SPACE

SALON INTERIORS

78

Let’s reflect

FROM BRICK TO BRONZE, INTERIORS TO INSPIRE AND ADMIRE

SCENE

FREE INSIDE

The Syd Hayes circus spectacular comes to town

EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ANNA SAMSON

DEPUTY EDITOR

ADVERTISING

BETH DAVIE

LAURA TUCKER

ART DIRECTOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

NICK JABBAL

DAVID HAMMOND

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

ADAM WOOD

EVA VESTMANN

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR ALISON ROWLEY

creativeheadmag.com

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SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK

creativeheadmagofficial

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

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a

UNLEASH YOUR ARTISTRY WIT H INF INIT E COLOUR

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GROW YOUR ARTISTRY AS WELL AS YOUR BUSINESS WITH AVEDA COLOUR - CALL 0370 192 5650 *From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk.

The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

TONI MASCOLO OBE:

1942-2017

GIUSEPPE TONI MASCOLO, co-founder of Toni&Guy, has died at the age of 75. Toni founded the hairdressing group with his brother, the late Guy Mascolo, in South London in 1963. He became chief executive of Toni&Guy, alongside its sister brands essensuals and label.m, spending more than 50 years in the industry. Today, there are more than 475 Toni&Guy salons across 48 countries.

Originally from Southern Italy, he arrived with his mother and brothers in London in 1956 to join his father, who was working as a barber in Knightsbridge. Soon after, Toni went to work with his father in the West End. In 1963 he and Guy found a space in Clapham and opened the first Toni&Guy salon, revolutionising modern British hairdressing on the high street to what we know today.

In October 2006, Toni received an Italian Knighthood – the Cavaliere Ufficiale – and in October 2008 he was awarded an honorary OBE for his services to British hairdressing. In 2013 Toni received an AH+AIPP International Legend Award at the Alternative Hair Show, which was presented to him by his younger brother Anthony. In a statement, the Mascolo family said: “We all loved him in life as we will love him in death. He will be dearly missed.”

Toni is survived by his wife Pauline and children Sacha, Christian and Pierre.

Brooker cuts for Creative HEAD Club SASSOON LEGEND Christopher Brooker made a rare return to the hairdressing stage with a one-day workshop in creative skills and business thinking, held at the Stannard & Slingsby salon in Kensington.

The creator of the iconic Firefly, Brush and Thatch hairstyles demonstrated cutting techniques to an audience of enthralled stylists – including The It List 2017 winners Mike O’Gorman, Casey Coleman and Darcie Harvey – and also found time to sign a pair of scissors, donated by Joewell in aid of ACT charity.

“It was the most wonderful day,” said Dale Hollinshead of Birmingham salon Hazel & Haydn, who won a place at the workshop after joining the new Creative HEAD Club. r ome a membe “Christopher is such a passionate man.”

JOIN US! Bec

HEAD Club of the Creative to win more for the chance ch as this opportunities su giveaways. and exclusive r more details.

See page 3 fo

We all know that Most Wanted Session Stylist winner Syd Hayes is one cool customer. Now you and your clients can wear a little bit of his cool vibe with the Syd Hayes Hair Pin (RRP from £60). For the ultimate indulgence, opt for the diamond-studded one – it’s only £3,000… sydhayeshair.com SEE SYD IN ACTION at our first Featured Artist Live event on page 78

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OF N IO T A R E N E G T X THE NE SHES U R B IR A H D E T N E V

brush head contours to your scalp for maximum detangling

IntelliFlex® bristles detangle without breakage

AVAILABLE AT ALL LEADING DISTRIBUTORS please contact:

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MEET OUR JANUARY AHEAD What January FEATURED ARTIST! has in store for...

With more than 20 years in hairdressing and a cover of The Sunday Times Magazine under his belt, Andrew Jose is a star stylist. He lets us into his world as this month’s Featured Artist – only on Creative HEAD Education!

Visit creativeheadmag.com/education

HAIRDRESSERS ‘LOVE TO MAKE PEOPLE HAPPY’

TREATWELL JOINS FORCES WITH THE PRINCE’S TRUST TREATWELL IS SUPPORTING young people setting up their own hair and beauty businesses by partnering with The Prince’s Trust Enterprise programme.

The charity’s programme offers training, mentoring and funding support to 18 to 30 year olds, and the online beauty bookings service is helping to fund young people who want to start a beauty business to participate in Enterprise.

Lopo Champalimaud, chief executive of Treatwell, said: “We are excited to be able to work with young people to help them realise their potential, and to help the hair and beauty industry discover the stars of tomorrow.”

Lopo has also helped to raise funds for The Prince’s Trust by joining the ‘Team Enterprise’ trek to the South Pole. Through this expedition, Lopo hopes to bring Treatwell’s fundraising efforts to a total of more than £1 million for the charity.

He joined a team of seven other business leaders (including Treatwell chairman, Klaus Nyengaard), on a trip that took them from Punta Arenas in Chile to the South Pole.

REFRESHING YOUR SALON? Get inspired with this Salon Ambience brochure, free with your issue of Creative HEAD!

THE BEST PART about working in the hairdressing industry is the chance to make people happy, according to a survey by Direct Line for Business.

The research by the insurance company revealed that 40 per cent of respondents said making people happy was why they loved hairdressing, followed by meeting new people (26 per cent) and creating inspiring styles (17 per cent).

The research comes at a time when it is becoming increasingly difficult to attract apprentices due to changes in funding, see page 24 for more information.

SKYLER MCDONALD SKYLER LONDON

We’re super-excited about the reception around our exclusive Silk Bath technique and, following this, the team and I will be working on creating new social content for the year. I’m also speaking at Salon Smart at the end of March, so I am busy prepping for this. It is an honour to talk at such an interesting networking event, discussing the concept of my salon.

AKIN KONIZI HOB SALONS

We’re making big changes to the HOB Academy; we’ve got the builders in to expand and refurbish the Academy building and we’re launching a new HOB Bespoke education concept and developing a new internal long hair teaching programme. Then there’s planning for our new commercial collections and the Wella TrendVision Award.

JANET MAITLAND INSPIRES NORTH EAST JANET MAITLAND HAS brought home a win at the North East Business Woman of the Year WIN Awards. The owner of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence in Durham was presented with the Inspire Me award for the success of her three salons, her work in the local community and her charitable work with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures initiative.

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Not sure where to look for business support in 2018?

Make joining the NHF your New Year resolution: as a Member you’ll have everything you need at your fingertips for less than 75p a day.

24/7 employment law helpline Commercial helpline Health & safety, tax and payroll advice Ready-made employment contracts Brilliant ideas for boosting your business

You’ll wonder what you did without us!

Call us on 01234 831965 or email us on enquires@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits NHF membership from £147

Join before 28 February and quote CHJ25 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Balayage bother no more!

New Rooted Strands from Great Lengths allows the flexibility to apply a less detectable darker bond while keeping lighter ends. Hurrah!

There are four shades to choose from.

Want Instagram-worthy tools in your kit bag… or to recommend to your selfie-loving clients? Then check out the limited edition Modern Marble collection of tools and brushes from Paul Mitchell.

RRP FROM £7.50 0845 6590013 salon-success.co.uk

IN-SALON SERVICE 0113 2781292 greatlengths.co.uk

Create your perfect shade of grey with new Dark Grey Colour Dynamics from ASP. For a subtler look, add ASP Colour Dynamics Pasteliser to mix up a stunning pastel finish.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 asphair.com

Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

There are some models who just exude effortless cool, a certain subtle, chic vibe that women crave. Alexa Chung has done that for the best part of a decade, and it’s why she’s the face (or hair) of L’Oréal Professionnel’s Parisian Nudes service. Ms Chung is rocking the #COLOURMEFRENCH technique, a pairing of two bespoke brunette shades from Majirel that will enhance your client’s colour to create an effortless, multi-dimensional nude finish. It’s a great way to show how brunettes can still enjoy tailored colour services that look natural… and keep them away from the DIY box!

IN-SALON SERVICE

0800 0304034 Which do we love more from R+Co – the bright and earthy RELATIVE PARADISE Fragrance Spray, or these round natural boar brushes designed by co-founder Garan? We’ll just take it all…

RRP £18.50 (SPRAY); FROM £65 (BRUSHES) 01442 248104

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Want that “Oh, I woke up like this” finish? Then reach for the OSiS+ Made to Be Real styling collection from Schwarzkopf Professional, featuring Sand Clay and Wind Touch.

RRP FROM £10.95 0800 526741

Aveda has unveiled three new aromas in its Pure-fume Hair Mists range, inspired

by Brazil (Marassona), the Middle East (Alanara) and Asia (Mihana).

RRP £30 EACH 0370 0342380 aveda.co.uk

You can now take out a kind-of colour insurance against your client’s hair colour with Celeb Luxury, which keeps hair colour looking fresh and healthy. Grab the bold care option, Viral.

RRP FROM £25.95 0845 6590011 salon-success.co.uk

We love new Matte Color, the latest addition to milk_ shake’s creative permanent colour range. Characterised by a predominant green tone, there are six cool matte shades.

IN-SALON SERVICE 01392 365177 milkshakehair.co.uk

With new technology that gives you true-to-tone fading, the 12 rainbow shades (and one clear) from Wella Professionals’ Color Fresh Create will have your clients crying unicorn tears of joy!

IN-SALON SERVICE 01202 595700 wella.co.uk

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

randco.com

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STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Redken has launched six on-trend shades across its Shades EQ portfolio, ensuring there’s something for every client. Whether it’s the millennial mixer who likes to change it up regularly, or the time-poor client that needs a quick colour refresh in their lunch hour, Redken has it covered. Going grey has never been so cool and this is encapsulated perfectly by Redken Shades EQ’s two new silver shades, as seen on Vogue fashion features director, Sarah Harris (pictured).

The polished Silver has beautiful metallic tones, while the Steel shade is a medium grey and provides a bright, silvery shine. For those keen to embrace the colourful hair trend, the new pastel shades by Shades EQ will keep them happy. The four new shades include Pastel Pink – a soft pink enhanced with violet hues and used

by Josh Wood, Redken global color creative director, at Alexander Wang S/S18; Pastel Peach – a pale orange balanced with pink tones; Aqua Blue – a radiant blue with subtle tones of warmth; and Silver Green – a grasslike green with metallic shimmer.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 6000815 redken.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT... BEATING BRASS Be a clean machine with Crazy Color’s new intense, sulphate-free Ultraviolet No Yellow Shampoo, perfect for grey, blonde or super-lightened hair. You can even use it as a gentle toner.

RRP £11.50

0141 8125000 crazycolor.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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Aha! Joico has delivered a silver bullet in the battle against brass – LumiShine Silver Blue series, an arsenal of silver-blue based demi-permanent liquid shades that deliver icy cool results every time.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 0712326

joico-lumishine.com

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*Source: 2015 Colourants Segmentation, Ipsos Base: Women aged 18-75.

R U YO ITH T S SW O BO INES S BU

£12,000

THAT’S HOW MUCH REDS HAIR AND BEAUTY IN SUNDERLAND HAS MADE IN SALES IN A YEAR FROM USING SMARTBOND, THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE TEAM HAS ALREADY SOLD 600 APPLICATIONS SINCE IT LAUNCHED A YEAR AGO – SO JUST IMAGINE WHAT SMARTBOND CAN DO FOR YOUR SALON’S BOTTOM LINE! ENCOURAGE CLIENTS TO USE IT WHEN THEY HAVE THEIR HAIR COLOURED AND THEY’LL ENJOY STRONG AND PROTECTED HAIR! WE SPOKE TO SALON MANAGER GREG TEMPLE TO FIND OUT HIS TOP SMARTBOND TIPS...

1 Train your staff to get them on board with the product so that it’s easier for them to convince clients about Smartbond. Invite models to try the service for free so staff and clients alike can see its benefits.

2 Incentivise your staff to sell Smartbond by offering an upgrade service to clients where they can take home a retail product; this helps staff with retail sales and increases their commissions.

3 Just trust the product! The more you use it, the more clients can see its benefits over other bonding products, how it maintains the integrity of the hair, and how it doesn’t affect the colour processing time.

THE FIX

Want to re-create a beautiful Parisian Brunette colour in your salon? Check out this stunning transformation created by @trevorsorbiesalon. Want it? Recreate it for your clients using the following steps: STEP 1 Apply Dia Richesse 5.8 + 9 vol to roots STEP 2 Apply Dia Richesse 6.8 + 9 vol to lengths and ends STEP 3 Use Smartbond throughout Don’t forget to share your own transformations using @lorealpro #lorealprouk #smartbond

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RETAIL REHAB Parisian brunettes are all about effortless glamour, so you need the ultimate multitasker – Mythic Oil by L’Oréal Professionnel.

It shines, nourishes and smooths without weighing hair down and provides heat protection.

CREATIVE HEAD

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

*Source: 2015 Colourants Segmentation, Ipsos Base: Women aged 18-75. **Kantar Worldpanel Usage: 52w/e June 2012-2016: GB: Females 17+

BCeOLaOUR ADDICT N DREAMERS, UNETTES TO UNICOR BR UL TIF AU BE ITH OM FR COLOUR IN 2018 W GET ADDICTED TO

FOR THOSE CLIENTS wanting to start 2018 as they mean to go on, and put their best foot forward, there’s a new trend that’s simply perfect. It’s all about Parisian Chic – subtle, sophisticated and seamless colour to refresh your clients’ look for the New Year. And who better to debut the Majirel palette than queen of laissez-faire luxury, Alexa Chung, L’Oréal Professionnel’s new ambassador. She wears Parisian Nudes with the #COLOURMEFRENCH technique, a pairing of two bespoke brunette shades that will enhance your client’s colour to create an effortless, multi-dimensional nude finish. Team it with a textured cut or French girl fringe, and let the tonal reflects enrich your clients’ colour, while still retaining an understated, stylish vibe.

BRUNETTES The number one hair colour in the UK is brunette, but only 13 per cent of brunettes colour their hair exclusively in salon.* At L’Oréal Professionnel, we know that 69 per cent want a natural look,** but as a colourist you know that ‘natural’ doesn’t mean just one bowl of colour or just using base shades. It’s an opportunity for you to showcase your professional difference, and that’s what the Parisian Nudes service is all about. Effortlessly natural isn’t effortless to achieve; it needs the specialist hands of a colourist.

DO THIS NOW

1) Make sure you’ve got the new Alexa Chung Parisian

Nudes imagery, featuring the #COLOURMEFRENCH technique, up in your salon and across your social media – get your clients asking for a little French fancy!

2) Ensure everyone knows about the new Parisian

Nudes trend and the services and techniques that are on offer so that they can chat about them with confidence during consultations.

3) Create a menu of services that pique your client’s

interest further, all to illustrate this je ne sais quoi chic; think textured cuts, scrappy bobs. Magnifique!

Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk or call 0800 0304034 CREATIVE HEAD

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THE BUSINESS EDIT

THE SECRET OF… ATTRACTING NEW CLIENTS IN JANUARY

DO YOU KNOW how software can help salons looking to attract new customers come the New Year? Let us tell you how… keeping in mind post-holiday budgets and the 30 per cent of the population resolving to ̒ save more and spend less ̓, you’ll need an intro offer with pricing that entices, rather than intimidates. It also needs to be simple to develop, manage and sell – and easy for your clients to buy. Here’s what to do: Make sure your salon software can facilitate new offers (i.e. multipleservice packages, discount pricing, pre-booking appointments) and that you can track and analyse your sales to determine their success.

Try a discounted, multiappointment package that brings in clients at a discounted price.

The aim is to create an amazing experience to help them see the value of returning at full price.

When designing this package, offer more than one appointment, giving you more opportunities to build a relationship – and have a clear expiration date. If you’re recommending a four-session blowdry package, have it expire in five, rather than 10, weeks.

Remove the pricing barrier by offering a discount, but don’t price too low or offer freebies as it will mean low retention. And avoid having too many pricing options, you’ll just confuse your clients.

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY, visit uk.mindbodyonline.com 20

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WHAT’S THE IMPACT OF APPRENTICESHIP CHANGES? DATA RELEASED BY the Department for Education shows a 61 per cent drop in the number of new apprentices starting their programmes since changes to apprenticeship funding were introduced last May. Small and micro businesses now have to pay 10 per cent of the cost of apprenticeship training, about £900 per apprentice for hairdressing and barbering, unless they are taking on 16 to 18 year olds. May also saw the introduction of new Trailblazer standards for hair. Are salons now staying away from investing in apprentices?

It’s something NHF chief executive Hilary Hall had warned might occur. “Worries about new standards will have contributed to the drop, but the NHF has consistently warned that changes to apprenticeship funding for small and micro businesses – who make up the vast majority of employers in our sector – would lead to a catastrophic fall in take-up of apprenticeships,” she says.

As the government has guaranteed a 35 per cent increase in apprentice numbers during this parliamentary term, Sanrizz hopes this will go some way to encourage candidates. “At present, the industry struggles to find the number of trainees necessary to generate the amount of future stylists needed to support salon businesses,” admits Sharon Cox, head of education at Sanrizz. “But this is not a reflection on new legislation, it’s a reflection on the culture within young people at school and being encouraged to continue further education

by schools, rather than being given an option of other career paths.” She adds that the pressure is on salons to “encourage and stimulate younger generations to stay on after the completion of the course, and develop their craft and careers”.

Michele Stewart, Contemporary’s education programme manager, feels this 10 per cent charge is penalising potential apprentices aged 19 and over: “Some employers don’t want to invest in their training if they can recruit a 16-year-old for the same job, no fee! It’s had a huge impact already on our recruitment.”

Although KH Hair has definitely noticed a drop in the number of young people applying to join its apprenticeship scheme, managing director Darren Messias believes this is in part due to advice being given to both school-leavers and their parents about the options available. “When pupils express an interest in hairdressing, many schools are pushing them towards further education in a college and not always telling them about the benefits of an apprenticeship.”

Alan D’s Edward Hemmings advises salon owners not to be scared of the new standards. “If your apprentice is under 19 and you’re a small business you will NOT have to contribute to the training. In fact, you can get a grant of £1,000,” he says. “You will need to contribute to the end-test, but you’ll still be quids in. If your provider is good at what they do, you will have a workready apprentice in about two years.”

From inside the salon KEITH MELLEN ANNE VECK SALONS

At Anne Veck Salons, we’ll continue to consider new apprentices aged 19 or older, but we’ll be even more thorough than before due to the triple-whammy of costs. However, the financial incentive for taking on 16 to 18 year olds is welcome and has already shifted our focus to this group. Employment models are changing at a bewildering speed and we need to compete with other creative industries for young talent. Two years of on-the-job training and salon drudgery disguised as salon experience is not sustainable. We’re looking to rebalance our apprenticeships so they offer more training and less assistant-type duties. If hairdressing is to survive, something must change.

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#BusinessEdit

TIMOTHY FOSTER WAHL

STYLING TOOLS FOR WOMEN – WHY LAUNCH THEM NOW? The Wahl Style Collection has been borne out of a desire to create a credible alternative for professional stylists.

We want to break through the veneer of the superficial by creating a range of products that put the substance back into style.

WHAT MAKES THE WAHL STYLE COLLECTION TOOLS DIFFERENT? Our Styling Iron and Dryer are the culmination of a rigorous and considered process. Co-designed with leading stylists Hooker & Young, the result is a set of tools that are built with a real understanding of the needs of today’s stylists; tools that are robust enough to live up to the demands of the busy salon environment and dynamic enough to create hair that lives up to life. The Iron features contoured ceramic plates that heat and cool in ultra-fast time, with variable heat settings and a three-metre swivel cord. Our perfectly balanced Dryer is quiet yet powerful, with Quick Dry Air Flow, a Whispertek silencer, three heat settings, two nozzles and the ability to switch on Turbo Heat or Cool Shot.

WHAT CAN WE EXPECT FROM WAHL IN 2018?

We’ll be exhibiting at various industry shows and launching our Wahl Style Collection UK roadshows with Hooker & Young to showcase our new range. Watch this space!

QA

TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!

SEE LARRY KING SPEAK AT 26 MARCH AT THE PARK PLAZA, LONDON

LARRY KING, LARRY KING SALON

You might seem like an overnight success, but I’m guessing it was a long journey. What was the tipping point?

@darrenfowlerhair Blimey, I wish it had been that easy. But no-one hands you success on a plate. It’s taken hard graft – working long days and never saying no to an opportunity. It’s meant missing out on special events with my kids at times, when all you want to do is stay home. At the end of the day it’s only you who can really make it happen.

The tipping point was asking my wife Laura to help. Laura’s been designing for years, she’s helped loads of my friends with their businesses and one day I said: “Right, now it’s time to help me.” She doesn’t mess about; within a few of weeks she’d designed the branding, created a business plan and started work on the website and salon interiors. She runs the business with me on a daily basis, which gives me more time to be creative.

What is your secret when it comes to working with curly hair?

@S3Kat I start wet and cut while it dries naturally, so you can see it taking shape. Always blunt cut and never use thinning scissors on curly hair. I love Redken’s Frizz Dismiss, then Full Effect 04 mousse, which adds body and volume without the dreaded crispiness and then a couple of pumps of Redken’s Curvaceous Ringlet and the Dyson Supersonic with the diffuser.

How have you used the relationships you’ve nurtured over the years to create a buzz about your brand?

@NasalHairSpray There has been an incredible buzz created by my friends posting and mentioning the salon.

But to be honest I rarely ask people to post, everything you see is organic. I’m so lucky to have an amazing friendship group. The launch party last January was a testament to this. Our PR company told us to invite 400 if we were hoping to have 250 turn up. We did – and 398 came!

Is the press important to you and your brand, or is it all about social media and influencers these days?

@BeautyJournoSJ Both are important. I think influencers are an incredible way to get customers through the door – you can’t beat real life recommendations. But the press is still key to building brand awareness and market positioning.

Next issue: Phil Smith. Tweet us your question @creativeheadmag

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#BusinessEdit

KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

I NEED ASSISTANCE WITH ASSISTANTS

In recent years we’ve had assistants who want instant fame but don’t have the passion and don’t want to put in the time or effort to master hairdressing. In the culture of instant gratification in which we now live, what should we do to help the next generation appreciate a craft that takes years to master?

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS Austen, the reality is that the generation we are training now is different from mine, yours, and those of recent years. I could spend hours explaining the differences but I suggest you watch some of the online content from business consultant Simon Sinek. Once you accept the challenges are different, you begin to realise that the solutions must also be different. Sadly, we continue to train in the same way that we have done for as long as I can remember. Yes, we have had improved syllabuses and changes to processes but, to put it simply, we pay as little as we can to trainees while taking as long as we can to train them because we need them to fulfil mundane roles in the salon. This does not appeal to the ‘now generation’.

Okay, many are screaming at me in defence of the system, but would a trainee doctor spend one day a week learning medicine and the other four changing beds and mopping the floors? Of course not, because they need to be treating patients as soon as possible.

Answer me this: if you trained someone in practical skills all day every day, how long do you think it would take them to become income producing?

There are many salons that invest their time and money on in-salon training, but there are also too many that send their trainees off to college for 30 days over three or four

AUSTEN THOMSON, CREATIVE DIRECTOR, AUSTEN THOMSON HAIR

years to achieve qualifications most salon owners would not accept as good enough.

So, what do I think the solution is? Well if the ‘true investment’ in any trainee is the cost of 90 days of training, then why not make this investment up front?

Trainees could be on the floor sooner and earning money for you (and themselves) much more quickly.

This now becomes far more appealing to the ‘now generation’, but why stop there? Surely this type of fasttrack training would appeal to anyone, of any age, who may be considering hairdressing as a career change?

During their training they could also be come ‘social trainees’ just as at 3•6•5 we train stylists to become ‘social stylists’, sharing their progress and the fun and exciting events and courses that they attend. This way they create interest among their friends, which may even lead them to want to go into hairdressing as a career.

Going back to your original question, you mentioned ‘a craft that takes years to master’. Master yes, but learn to an acceptable standard, no. Our industry has a shortage of stylists NOW. Salons that apply outside-the-box thinking to training will be the winners in the long term.

We need to provide fast and exciting training with a decent level of salary as this generation learns and provide opportunities to earn good salaries in the SEE future. This comes from charging higher prices, KEN WEST which comes from delivering a higher quality SPEAK AT service, which comes from truly valuing ourselves as professionals… if we don’t, then 25 MARCH AT THE PARK sadly, you and I will be having the same PLAZA, LONDON conversation for years to come.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag 22

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SELF-EMPLOYED IS THE NEW NORM CHAIR RENTERS AND self-employed hairdressers and barbers now outnumber those who are directly employed within the industry, latest figures published by the NHF have revealed.

A total of 57 per cent of hairdressers and barbers were self-employed in 2017, compared with 48 per cent the year before, the NHF statistics published in December showed. The percentage who were selfemployed within beauty went down slightly, to 54 per cent from 57 per cent, but was also still more than half.

The role of self-employed workers in the UK – how they can potentially be exploited but also the effect they can have on wages and competition – is being closely scrutinised by the government.

Last summer it published a Review of Modern Working Practices, which recommended the creation of a new form of worker, a “dependent contractor” who would be a halfway house between being employed and self-employed.

Budget hope for VAT Elsewhere in the Budget, the NHF has given a cautious welcome to the announcement that the government will consult on the possibility of changing the threshold for which businesses must become registered for VAT. The threshold currently stands at £85,000, but the NHF has campaigned for this to be reduced to £40,000 and the 20 per cent rate of VAT to BE READY! be reduced to 5 per Pensions autocent to create a more in April enrolment change ibution level playing field – employer’s contr nt; ce r pe 2 to e ris l wil between salons that tions employees’ contribu are VAT-registered and to 3 per cent those that are not.

Host Ed James, NHF president Agnes Leonard, Melissa Timperley and Unite’s Andrew Dale

#BusinessEdit

NHF CELEBRATES THE BEST MANCHESTER’S MELISSA TIMPERLEY SALONS was among those celebrating at the NHF’s Business Awards, Britain’s Best and Photographic Stylist of the Year competitions, walking away with two awards and one runner-up prize. More than 250 guests came together to see the winners of the NHF’s first ever Business Awards being crowned at the Vox Conference Centre in Birmingham. The awards, with 10 categories, were launched to celebrate the NHF’s 75th anniversary. Melissa won in the Best New Business category, plus the Male Fashion Look in Photographic Stylist of the Year. Her apprentice, 18-year-old salon Halle Whitehead, also came third in the Britain’s Best students and trainees Hair-up category. Full listings of the winners from all three events can be found online at nhf.info

Sharp increases set for wages DESPITE SALONS and barbershops already having to deal with rising prices and uncertain consumer confidence, chancellor Philip Hammond announced what he described as “the largest increase in youth rates in 10 years” in his Budget.

Mr Hammond said the increase in the National Living Wage would give a fulltime worker on this rate a £600 pay increase. The increase in minimum wage rates would give a pay boost to more than two million workers, he added.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall expressed dismay at the increases. “We are disappointed the government has seen fit to push ahead with such big minimum wage increases. These increases will cause real pain for many small business owners,” she said.

RATE

CURRENT

FROM APRIL 2018

National Living Wage (over 25s) Age 21 to 24 Age 18 to 20 Age 16 to 17 Apprentice*

£7.50 £7.05 £5.60 £4.05 £3.50

£7.83 (up 4.4 per cent) £7.38 (up 4.7 per cent) £5.90 (up 5.4 per cent) £4.20 (up 3.7 per cent) £3.70 (up 5.7 per cent)

*The apprentice rate applies to those aged 16 to 18 training on an apprenticeship and to those aged 19 or over who are in the first year of an apprenticeship

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 24

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n target

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

Your targeted toolbox to help build your salon business bigger and better, in association with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

THE TARGET

AVERAGE RETAIL TURNOVER

ARE YOU ON TARGET?

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND EXC. VAT

How was business in October compared with September?

9.21% £40.84

PROMOTIONS THAT PULL IN REVENUE You know the phrase – New Year, New You! – and without a doubt January is the month that many salons choose to target all those who have started New Year’s resolutions, want to turn over a new leaf and make changes with their hair. It can be a quiet month, so the more you can utilise your marketing tools, the more bums on seats you’ll get!

Do you use a specialist marketing agency?

YES 26% NO 74%

NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR

9.2% OF VISITS

STABLE 20%

GROWING 66%

(October 2017)

Do you employ an in-house PR or an allocated promotions person?

YES 46% NO 54%

Most important methods of promotion

1. INSTAGRAM 2. FACEBOOK 3. WORD OF MOUTH

“I cannot remember life before SMS marketing.

It shows we are serious about what we do and I believe it promotes our professionalism, and our clients have come to rely on it, too”

90%

were read within three minutes of being sent

How was business in October compared with October last year?

STABLE 13%

DECLINING 7%

GROWING 80%

KIMBERLEY LEVINE, GREAT HAIRDRESSING & BEAUTY

SNAPSHOT

Salon iQ sent 608,000 SMS in October 2017

DECLINING 14%

97% open rate

One Salon iQ client sent 5,129 SMS on 4 October

A PING OF A LITTLE SMS MESSAGE CAN HAVE A BIG IMPACT ON YOUR BOTTOM LINE

247

booked an appointment from this SMS blast

9.82% £537.04 generated

booked

(this doesn’t include future bookings)

The above figures from within six days of SMS being sent

WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL ON 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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ADDICTED TO

COLOUR

THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY, THE WORLD’S LONGEST RUNNING LIVE HAIR COMPETITION, OPENS FOR ENTRIES THIS MONTH AND IS YOUR CHANCE TO BECOME THE UNDISPUTED COLOUR CHAMPION OF THE WORLD IT’S A MOMENT THAT’S captured for ever – the tears, the smiles, the explosion of glitter and the all-important L’Oréal Colour Trophy in your hands – and it’s a moment you could experience come June this year if you enter the longestrunning live hairdressing competition in the world.

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy puts the focus on colour and fashion. Your challenge? To create an on-trend, beautiful look that you can show off in your salon window – and nationwide if you make it through the regional heats. To be a winner, you need to be fiercely passionate about the whole

colour spectrum, have inspiration practically oozing out of your pores and be able to colour with the best of them.

For those that want to show off their barbering skills, the Men’s Image Award is what they need, while the Afro Award shows off the talent behind textured hair. And for the hot young colourist setting hues ablaze there’s the STAR Award!

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2018 is open for entries on 8 January and you don’t even need to be a L’Oréal Professionnel salon to be able to enter.

So if you think you’re the best colourist out there, prove it!

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

WE WON!

LINTON & MAC, ABERDEEN SARAH BLACK, PRINCIPAL STYLIST

IS 2018 YOUR YEAR?

Visit hy.com lorealcolourtrop !

W NO r te en d an

“Winning L’Oréal Colour Trophy has been the most incredible experience of my career.

I joined Linton & Mac in January last year and the entry process meant I was able to work closely with my colour team. As an experience, it’s unrivalled. I feel like this award has made us all feel unstoppable as a brand. Linton & Mac is only two years old, so we’re all looking forward to what the future brings us. To anyone thinking about entering, go for it – and don’t hold back. Stay authentic to your vision and believe in yourself.”

HOW TO ENTER LCT18 1. Head to lorealcolourtrophy.com 2. BUILD your personal profile 3. Choose your CATEGORY 4. COMPLETE your ENTRY FORM ONLINE and upload your photo (no more than one year old) 5. Please consult full L’Oréal Colour Trophy TERMS AND CONDITIONS before entering 6. SUBMIT your application before 26 February 2018 @lorealpro

@lorealprouk

/lorealprofessionnel.uk

#LorealproUK #LCT18

Call 020 8762 4617 or visit lorealcolourtrophy.com for more information

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2018 marks the 63rd year of the longest-running live hairdressing competition, The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Are you addicted to colour?

L’Oréal Professionnel is looking for the most creative amongst you to design the ultimate, forward thinking, inspirational, trend driven total look.

Share with us your colour addiction.

Entries open 8th January 2018, enter at* Lorealcolourtrophy.com Follow us @lorealpro #lorealprouk #LCT18

*Open to UK residents aged 16+ entering as part of a salon team of no more than 4 people. Entries must be uploaded onto www.lorealcolourtrophy.com by 26/02/18 and must use only L’Oréal Professionnel products. Entry photos must be in colour and no more than 1 year old at the date of entry. Winning team receives the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award 2018 and the chance to attend other events to include a 3-day European trip. See www.lorealcolourtrophy.com for full details and terms and conditions. Promoter: L’Oréal Professionnel, a trading division of L’Oréal (UK) Limited.

Grand Final 2017 Show, Hair by Sklyer McDonald at SEANHANNA

TO CELEBRATE THE TALENT ACROSS THE AVEDA SALON NETWORK, THE BRAND IS RUNNING A SERIES OF #AVEDAARTIST COMPETITIONS, WHERE ASPIRING STYLISTS ENTER CREATIVE IMAGES ON INSTAGRAM FOR A CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT DAY WITH THE AVEDA ARTISTIC TEAM. WINNERS FRANCESCA KING, DRUE MOCK, LEAH SMITH AND KENNY YUEN WERE INVITED TO DIRECT THEIR OWN SHOOT AT AVEDA LONDON, TASKED WITH THE THEME OF WARRIOR BRAIDS. WHAT WOULD THESE AVEDA ARTISTS CREATE?

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY DANIEL SIMS 30

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“WE’RE A NEW SALON IN A REALLY COOL LOCATION IN LANCASHIRE, AND I WANTED TO BRING A LONDON VIBE THERE, TO REALLY MAKE OUR MARK. THAT’S WHY I ENTERED THE #AVEDAARTIST COMPETITION” LEAH SMITH THE BLONDE & THE BEARS @LEAH3799

GO ONLINE to see all the competition entries by searching #avedaartist on Instagram, and visit @AvedaUK

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

KENNY YUEN GINA CONWAY @KENNY.Y__

HAIR Francesca King and Drue Mock, Daniel Rymer Male Grooming; Leah Smith, The Blonde & The Bears; Kenny Yuen, Gina Conway, assisted by Kirsty Dorling-Brown for Aveda. MAKE-UP Lucy Broggio

“THIS IS LIKE COMING TO JAM! WE’RE INSPIRED BY EACH OTHE R – THAT’S WHY I’M DOING THIS, AND IT’S WHY I ENTERED THE #AVEDAARTIST COMPETITION!”

“WE WANTED SOMETHING WITH ’RE GRIT, NOTHING TOO FEMININE. WE TH FREESTYLING HERE, PLAYING WI D GAME OF THRONES, VIKINGS AN FESTIVALS FOR INSPIRATION” DRUE MOCK AND FRANCESCA KING DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING @DRUEBOYBARBER, @FRANKING24

CREATIVE HEAD

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WORKSHOPS

FINDING STAFF PRESENTATIONS

SUCCESS LIVE DEBATE STOCK & SERVICES REAL EXPERIENCES

PRODUCTIVITY NEW CONNECTIONS KEEPING CLIENTS

NON-STOP NETWORKING

Associate sponsors

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13/12/2017 15:09

TAKE CONTROL OF YOUR BUSINESS

25-26 March 2018

Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London

CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944 WEEKEND PASS £245* plus VAT DOUBLE DEAL WEEKEND PASS £450** plus VAT MONDAY PASS £100 plus VAT For full event information visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart *£50 single room supplement applies

**Based on two sharing a double or twin room

In partnership with

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In partnership with

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Associate sponsors

13/12/2017 15:09

Zoë Vears, Salon Success

Sarah Guild, BrandSTAND Communications

Gavin Hoare, Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa

Simon Tickler, Salon Success

Jennifer Linton & Joanna MacDonald, Linton & Mac

Hari Efthymiades, Cut & Grind

Matt Robinson, Mr Robinson’s Barbershop

Carolyn Sweeney, Creations

Tom Chapman, Tom Chapman Hair Design

Alan Edwards, Alan Edwards

Dale Hollinshead, Hazel & Haydn

Andrew Mulvenna, Andrew Mulvenna

Jane Williams, Reed Hair

Ken West, 3•6•5 Hair

Monica Teodoro, L’Oréal Professionnel

Jonathan Andrew, Jamie Stevens

Sam McKnight

Skyler McDonald, Skyler London

Joanna Hansford, Jo Hansford

Larry King, Larry King Sally Montague, Sally Montague Hair Group

Brooks & Brooks

Simon Webster Hair

Andrew Cannon, Ruffians

Ky Wilson, The Social

25-26 MARCH 2018, LONDON BRIGHT IDEAS, REAL EXPERIENCES � TRIED, TESTED AND TALKED ABOUT BY REAL HAIRDRESSERS, JUST LIKE YOU. HEAR FROM THEM ALL!

CALL TO BOOK 01434 610944 More details creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart @creativeheadmag #salonsmart18

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13/12/2017 15:10

F O H T A E R B

FRESH AIR THE NEW YEAR IS THE PERFECT TIME TO TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT – AND CELEB LUXURY ISN’T JUST A NEW PRODUCT RANGE, IT’S A WHOLE NEW COLOUR CATEGORY WHAT IF WE SAID there was a kind of colour insurance you could take out against your client’s hair colour? Something that keeps colour fresh, vibrant and healthy between colour services that was so much more than your usual wash and go?

Celeb Luxury is that insurance. Available exclusively through Salon Success, it’s made up of Gem Lites for traditional colour shades and Viral for bolder hues. The ranges promise to: ● Fight colour fade ● Protect colour from the sun and environmental damage ● Protect from heat styling damage ● Stabilise peroxide-based colour from the first day hair is coloured

The cruelty-free and vegan-friendly lines feature a shampoo, conditioner and styler, but Colorwash with Colorposit technology is the centrepiece.

Designed to be used before or as a replacement to a client’s usual shampoo, Colorwash provides instant real rich or bold colour results that clients will love.

In fact, when using the entire Gem Lites or Viral systems, laboratory testing results revealed: ● Reduced breakage by up to 91 per cent ● 24-hour frizz and humidity control ● Reduction in static by 95 per cent ● Heat protection from styling tools up to 230°C ● Thermal damage was prevented

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

DES

THE SYSTEM INCLU

SH GEM LITES SHINEWA R NE ITIO ND GEM LITES BO FIX ET CR GEM LITES CELEB SE

A TRUE GEM

Gem Lites Colorwash is made up of 10 brilliant tones and three clear ones for traditional shades. Clients will enjoy real, rich colour and conditioned results with reduced colour fade, and should alternate the Shinewash with their chosen shade of Gem Lites Colorwash.

DES

THE SYSTEM INCLU

H VIRAL MOISTUREWAS ER ION DIT ON VIRAL BL YLER VIRAL SMOOTHING ST

GO VIRAL

For those who like to go bold, Viral Colorwash features seven extreme colours, three pastels and three clear tones. It creates bold colour on prelightened hair or jewel tones on deeper shades. Clients will enjoy a high-lather cleanse and conditioned results with reduced colour fade.

CELEB LUXURY IS AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY FROM SALON SUCCESS AND SALON SERVICES STRICTLY TRADE-ONLY STORES. FOR MORE DETAILS, CALL 0845 6590011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK

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SHOW OF FORCE

THE COLOR ZOOM ’18 COLLECTION FROM GOLDWELL FUSES OLD AND NEW, RAWNESS AND REFINEMENT, TECHNOLOGY AND SIMPLICITY. AT ITS CORE IS A DESIRE TO KNOW OUR ORIGINS AND A PRIMAL URGE TO CONNECT. IT’S ELEMENT∆L AMAZING FASHION meets stunning hair artistry – that’s Color Zoom. And at its heart is the Color Zoom Collection.

Designed by the global winners of the Color Zoom Challenge together with two of Goldwell’s international artists, it inspires stylists to push the limits of creativity.

This year, the Color Zoom ’18 Creative Team has crafted a collection with raw edges and rough textures that harks back to the beginnings of human life, combined with a look to the future, propelled by technology. A new energy is created, it’s visionary, it’s element∆l.

ELEMENTAL COLOURS

Muted pastels and rich earthy tones overlap and refine one another, creating a sense of translucency.

A weathered patina forms a muted shimmer where matte and unpolished tones appear beneath a luminous surface.

Moving beyond metallic into mineral tones reveals a variety of harmonious shades.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ELEMENTAL SHAPES

A minimalistic approach conveys sophistication with a sense of the elemental. The key to a precise but intuitive look is a primal foundation created by soft and jagged edges. The look is completed by handcrafted shapes that are subtly asymmetric with unexpected irregularities.

ELEMENTAL TEXTURE

The element∆l Collection is influenced by the balance created between raw and refined elements. Skilful texturing lends an airiness that flows into the styling to create a future-forward look.

CREATIVE HEAD

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ARE YOU READY TO BE A STAR?

THE COLOR ZOOM CHALLENGE IS THE OPPORTUNITY OF A LIFETIME. TAKE IT ON AND MAKE YOUR CREATIVITY COUNT. BECOME THE STAR YOU WERE BORN TO BE…

GET ORGANISED THE CLOSING DATE IS 31 MAY

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HOW TO ENTER

You’ve seen Goldwell’s latest hair fashion collection, element∆l, now use it for your inspiration and enter the category that applies to you. Each country will then reveal gold, silver and bronze winners in each of the three categories:

NEW TALENT – Junior stylists with less than five years of experience (excluding an apprenticeship) CREATIVE – Stylists with more than five years of

experience (excluding an apprenticeship)

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

You want to be the very best at what you do – and be recognised for it. So how can you achieve this? Enter the Color Zoom Challenge with Goldwell. It’s one of the most prestigious live competitions in the industry and it’s your chance to put yourself out there and be seen by your peers.

“I GOT TO MEET AND COMPETE AGAINST STYLISTS FROM AROUND THE WORLD, WHICH WAS INCREDIBLE. IT IS SOMETHING I’LL NEVER FORGET – IT’S REALLY BOOSTED MY CONFIDENCE AND HELPED TO INSPIRE ME FURTHER WHEN WORKING WITH CLIENTS IN THE SALON”

LYDIA WOLFE FROM TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING, THE STYLISTS’ FAVOURITE AWARD WINNER IN THE NEW TALENT CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17 “THE COLOR ZOOM EXPERIENCE HAS MADE ME MORE PASSIONATE ABOUT WHAT I DO AND I LOVE THAT I CAN BRING ELEMENTS OF WHAT I LEARNT BACK TO MY SALON. PEOPLE ARE ALSO MORE AWARE OF MY SALON AS A BRAND”

CAROLINE BRAND FROM ORACLE HAIR AND BEAUTY, BRONZE WINNER IN THE CREATIVE CATEGORY AT GLOBAL ZOOM ’17

PARTNER – For stylists who are currently working or have been working with Goldwell as a freelancer, trainer or active representative in the past two years

Lydia Wolfe with Goldwell’s John Moroney

All national gold winners qualify for the live final at Global Zoom, which this year is being held in Toronto, Canada. National winners can expect to raise their profile and take their career to the next level, with heaps of promotion in the press and online. The global winner announced at Global Zoom will get a career and image boost befitting a recognised top international stylist.

They’ll get publicity in national and global press and in an extensive social media campaign, as well as becoming part of the Color Zoom Creative Team that creates a future Color Zoom Collection.

TO ENTER DOWNLOAD YOUR BRIEFING KIT AT GOLDWELL.CO.UK/ COLOR-ZOOM-18

THE NEXT STEPS

• Download your briefing kit at goldwell.co.uk/color-zoom-18 • Check out the current collection, element∆l, and make it your own • Choose a model and the styling • Create your look and do a photoshoot • Fill out and send back the entry form by 31 May • National winners will be announced in July 2018 and Global Zoom takes place in Toronto on 30 September 2018

Keep up-to-date with the latest competition news by following @GoldwellUK #Takethechallenge, #Colorzoom on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook CREATIVE HEAD

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2017 THE END OF THE YEAR SHOW

WELCOME TO OUR REVIEW OF THE YEAR – WE’VE CONDENSED ALL THE MOST IMPORTANT ACTION OF THE PAST 12 MONTHS INTO BITE-SIZED SECTIONS SO THAT YOU CAN GET YOUR FIX OF THE TRENDS, BRANDS, PEOPLE, PRODUCTS AND MOMENTS THAT MADE A DIFFERENCE IN 2017

HEY, BIG SPENDERS! BIG BUSINESS MAKES MOVES

Coty Inc, which in 2016 bought Wella Professionals and 42 of P&G’s other hair, perfume and make-up businesses for $12.5bn (£9.7bn), doubled down with a £420m takeover of ghd, cementing its newfound presence in hair.

Meanwhile Henkel acquired Shiseido’s North American professional hair care business – adding brands such as Joico and Zotos Professional to its portfolio.

GREAT EXPECTATIONS SOPHIA HILTON – NOT ANOTHER SALON

When she went to get her hair done in West London she didn’t feel posh enough, and when she went to the East End she didn’t feel cool enough. So, at the age of 27, Sophia Hilton launched Not Another Salon on London’s Brick Lane, complete with Wagon Wheels, GameBoys and a ‘no judgement’ policy designed to take the fear out of going to the salon.

What happened next was remarkable.

Sophia’s Hidden Rainbow hair became an internet sensation, a 55-second video about the salon team went viral on Facebook, 184,000 Instagram followers have signed up to see more of Not Another Salon’s high-end bleeds, and there was a three-month waiting list for an appointment. This year Sophia led the charge on a “colour pandemic”, articulating a growing malaise among colourists that retouched images on Instagram create unrealistic expectations about what’s possible in a normal salon appointment. “Not only am I coming up against those challenges in the salon, but all over the world as I run a colour academy across six countries,” she says. “Everywhere I see the same issues: hairdressers struggling to keep their heads above water.”

By speaking out, Sophia hopes more colourists will feel empowered to raise their voices on the subject, too.

“I’d like to see more salons educating their clients as often as possible across social media,” she says. “I believe we have the power to create enough content to change this and teach clients about the realities of what is going on.”

Take that, world!

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SPLIT DECISIONS

PARTING WAYS IN 2017

Bruce Masefiield Hair

When Josh Wood moved to Redken in the spring of 2017 (exclusively revealed in Creative HEAD), he ended an official alliance with Wella that had lasted a decade. In his new role as Redken’s global color creative director, Wood has teamed up with session god Guido Palau to set trends that will influence looks worldwide. The new partnership was celebrated in a packed-out gathering of Creative HEAD’s The Coterie. In other moves, Bruce Masefield quit as European creative director at Sassoon to open his own salon in Edinburgh; Hereford’s Peter Prosser retired after 53 years in the industry; and Angelo Vallillo left Zullo & Holland to launch a salon/art space with former RUSH creative, Dale Hearne. More details to come…

SEE KY WILSON SPEAK AT 25 MARCH AT THE PARK PLAZA, LONDON

WUNDERKIND OF THE YEAR KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL

Is there anybody who hasn’t heard of Ky Wilson? The 28-yearold self-confessed loudmouth is setting the industry alight with his pop-up salons, creative collaborations and forthright opinions (social media being a particular favourite: “Stop trying to be so f**king famous”). It’s an approach that has seen his profile grow exponentially – as a blogger, barber, session stylist and creative thinker, culminating in him being named Creative HEAD’s It Guy of 2017. From cutting hair on the streets of London to Northern Soul dancing onstage – Ky’s done it all, with style. We can’t wait to see what’s next.

2017

2017 WINNER THE IT GUY

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2TH0E 1EN7D

Luke Benson

OF THE YEAR SHOW

JOBS FOR THE BOYS (AND GIRLS?) A GREAT BARBER DEBATE

We all know that male grooming is booming, with more barbershops opening on the British high street right now than any other kind of independent business. But when Creative HEAD’s Coterie club debated the changing needs of the male client, we had no idea we’d cause such a stir. Panellist Johnny Baba’s controversial approach to barbershop culture started it – throughout his five Barber Barber shops, he operates a ‘no women’ policy (including staff) so, he says, “men can feel comfortable being men.”

According to Johnny, many of his customers are still “traditional men”, with minimal interest in other grooming practices. Fellow panellist and male grooming expert Luke Benson disagreed. “Masculinity isn’t one thing,” he argued.

“Johnny, I bet loads of your ‘traditionally masculine’ clients shave their balls and you just don’t know it!”

“That mirror my dad looked into and knew he was ‘a man’ has shattered now,” said grooming journalist Lee Kynaston, citing Unilever’s marketing U-turn for mega-brand Lynx as an example of the mainstream rejecting ‘laddish’ stereotypes. “One of the best things I’ve read about modern masculinity is by artist Grayson Perry, who said: ‘We need to think of masculinity like a piece of equipment. Some men, like soldiers, need it all the time, others might need it at the weekend and others not at all.’”

PEOPLE POWER Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and… well-groomed stubble. In 2017 Manny Gutierrez became just the second man to be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement (the first being James Charles for Covergirl). “Make-up is genderLESS and has no rules,” Manny tells his millions of social media followers.

That men can be the face of a global make-up brand and that John Lewis can remove boy’s and girl’s labels from children’s clothing in a bid to reduce “gender stereotypes” underlines how diversity is seen as increasingly powerful. It’s making itself felt in our industry, too. Gender fluid model Sara Cummings was featured as a brand muse for Redken; Fudge Professional partnered with session stylist Lisa Farrall on work celebrating traditionally feminine-targeted mousse on a beautifully androgynous model, and KMS celebrated a ‘genderless grooming’ campaign.

Meanwhile, gender-neutral pricing in Not Another Salon (“I’ve got girls with skinheads and boys with hair down to their backsides, so to me, it’s clear. I should be pricing on the job – not what’s in their pants,” says owner Sophia Hilton) and RoCo in Derry may well make traditional pricing based on gender feel out out-dated.

Not Another Salon

GENDER FLUIDITY

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PURSUIT OF PERFECTION AWARDS

LARRY KING, SOUTH KENSINGTON

BARN//IT, MANCHESTER

AND THE WINNERS ARE…

RADIO LONDON HAIR SALON AND GALLERY, KINGS CROSS

SKYLER LONDON, WANDSWORTH

TINT, LEEDS

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU! Electric Hairdressing ghd

Tangle Teezer

Spirit Hair Company

Obsessions Salon and Spa Westrow

Charles Worthington

Crazy Color

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2 0 1 7 THE END

#COLORFULHAIR by L’Oréal Professionnel

OF THE YEAR SHOW

SPECTACULAR COLOUR FROM NATURAL TO SUPERNATURAL

Prismatic, electric, glow-in-the-dark… in 2017, colour trends shifted from natural to supernatural. From Bowie Blorange to dark denim; neon-brights to icy whites; shades of peach and salmon sushi through to balayage in every colour under the rainbow – 2017 was the year when non-natural hair colour came out of the DIY closet and hit the mainstream. Kenra ambassador and YouTube sensation Guy Tang even came up with UV hair colour – that’s right, colour that glows when it’s under black light (surely a must for any club kid).

Big brand names happily fuelled the trend – L’Oréal Professionnel’s #COLORFULHAIR in-salon semi-permanent colour service offered clients thousands of colour permutations, and City Beats from Redken delivered 12 vibrant shades inspired by the streets of NYC with model Chloe Nørgaard.

With fantasy shades in full swing, it wasn’t long before people turned to science-fiction. Metallic shades in cool silvers and iridescent purples gave us a glimpse of the future, with Majirel Metals by L’Oréal Professionnel, Color Intensity Metallic Muse collection by Joico and Crazy Color veered (slightly) away from its bold roots with its four high-shine metallic shades.

Even punk favourites Manic Panic unveiled a professional-only line of colour. It’s official – the unicorn is alive and well…

THE BIG ISSUES WORKING CONDITIONS

Hairdressing remains one of the most vibrant and creative industries in which to work. But there are key challenges that will continue to set the agenda.

The first is recruitment; An NHF survey revealed four out of every five hair and beauty employers were finding it ‘difficult’ or ‘very difficult’ to find and recruit qualified and experienced staff, especially in more rural locations.

Wage bills were also a worry: the biggest single cost for salons which were also hit with the additional costs of pension auto-enrolment, new compulsory contributions to apprenticeship training and increases to National Minimum and Living Wages.

Finally, self-employment continues to be a growing trend, with the NHF’s statistics showing 57 per cent of those working in hairdressing and barbering are now self-employed. Because staff carry so many additional employmentrelated costs, businesses are finding it increasingly hard to compete.

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THE YEAR OF

JOHNNY BABA LUKE BENSON JESSICA DINER ERROL DOUGLAS MBE JOSHUA GOLDSWORTHY SARAH GUILD SAMANTHA HILLERBY LEE KYNASTON CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST NICOLA MOULTON GUIDO PALAU LIZ PUGH MATT ROBINSON OLLY SMITH JODY TAYLOR KY WILSON JOSH WOOD With special thanks to our Coterie event sponsors: American Crew, BaByliss PRO, Redken and TIGI 49

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Tilda Swinton for Italian Vogue, by Craig McDean

Sam with Linda Evangelista, by Laspata Decaro

Kate Moss for Vogue, by Nick Knight

MY 2017, BY SAM MCKNIGHT

Sam with Vogue’s Edward Enninful

Kate Moss by Patrick Demarchelier

A YEAR IN THE LIFE OF AN ICON

“It has been such a momentous year for me. I had my ‘Hair by Sam McKnight’ exhibition at Somerset House – I was incredibly honoured that my work would be the subject of an exhibition. At first I was a little apprehensive – did I have enough content to warrant a full exhibition? Curator Shonagh Marshall was able to go through my archive and pull out some great pieces that told a story spanning 40 years. The look and immersive experience of the exhibition was designed by the brilliant Michael Howells, with whom I have worked for many years on numerous shoots for Vogue. I was overwhelmed by the generosity of the photographers, designers and magazines that I have work with whom contributed so much to the exhibition, including Chanel, Vivienne Westwood and other creatives.

“What became evident was how important hair can be in the making of creative images and I think the exhibition and the accompanying book, Hair by Sam McKnight, went some way to achieve this, and to elevate the hair industry as a whole. I’ve been blown away by the great response that I’ve had to the exhibition, especially from hairdressers; the messages of support have been incredibly humbling and very much appreciated.

“Meanwhile, at the same time as planning and executing the book and exhibition, I was working away behind the scenes on creating my own hair products. Again, this was an entirely new journey for me and I learnt so much in the process, from how to formulate a product to packaging, distribution and beyond. I decided to launch with four styling products and these hit the shelves in Liberty of London in June, and are now stocked on my own site and at Net-A-Porter. The range is a culmination of all my years in hairdressing, I think it was Vogue who called it ‘Sam in a can’, and these styling products are my go-to backstage favourites. I was determined to create a range that could help women to get the hair they want, that they can easily do themselves and from the feedback I’ve had so far, I think I’ve just about nailed it. When I was developing

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Pages from Hair by Sam McKnight, published by Rizzoli

Karlie Kloss for Vogue, by Patrick Demarchelier

Fendi S/S17

2TH0E 1EN7D OF THE YEAR SHOW

the range I was fortunate enough to work with an amazing perfumer, Lyn Harris, and she created a beautiful fragrance based on my garden in the rain, which I have used across the range. My team and I first used the products at Fashion Week – the signature scent fragranced the backstage area and everyone commented on how wonderful and fresh it was, which was a lovely bonus! Right now, I’m developing new products to add to the range...

“All of this has taken place against the backdrop of my day-to-day work as a session stylist and I am so lucky to work with such a remarkable bunch of talented people.

Fashion Week continues to inspire me and Team McKnight, my brilliant crew who work tirelessly supporting me through shoots and especially the shows. I’ve worked with Chanel now for nine years, and the genius that is Karl Lagerfeld always gives us fresh challenges in a new way each season at Chanel and Fendi, and I love the fact that after all these years, I’m still learning.

“I can’t end without talking about awards. This year, my Hair by Sam McKnight range has been nominated for and won six beauty awards including Tatler, Grazia, Powder, Glamour, Harper’s Bazaar and Marie Claire, which I find mind-boggling seeing as it was only launched in June. And then of course, receiving the Hair Icon award at this year’s Creative HEAD Most Wanted Awards was the icing on the cake. It’s such a wonderful feeling to be recognised by my peers and there was so much love, support and passion in evidence that night.

“It’s been a rollercoaster year for me, that’s for sure, but two key things have kept me strong. The wonderful Team McKnight, which has been behind me every step of the way and to whom I am enormously thankful. The other is my garden, and for those of you who follow me on Instagram (@sammcknight1), you’ll know that this is where you’ll find me when I’m not working. I get home, open the garden door and I am transported to a different world, where I can retreat, relax and spend time thinking about what I hope to achieve in 2018.”

SEE SAM MCKNIGHT AT Gisele Bündchen by Alexei Hay

25 MARCH AT THE PARK PLAZA, LONDON

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WELL HELLO,

2018!

LOOKING GOOD! HERE’S WHAT TO GET EXCITED ABOUT IN THE YEAR AHEAD

THE PERM IS BACK REHABILITATION OF A CLASSIC

The Maxi Perm by Hershesons

Thirty years is a long time for a style to suffer for crimes it committed back in the ’80s. Yes, there were some unfortunate moments – Kevin Keegan springs to mind – but Cher, Julia Roberts, Jennifer Beals and even Justin Timberlake proved that a perm can be cool and certainly no barrier to global megastar status. And now the perm is coming back, says the team at Hershesons.

The trick is to forget everything you already knew about perms. The new Maxi Perm – wound on long rubber rods rather than perm rollers and delivering full-on, unapologetically big and lively curls like Carrie Bradshaw in the first series of Sex and the City – looks great with a simple, longer shape and needs no mousse to style it – oils and creams help the hair feel softer and more believable.

And then there’s the braid perm. Designed by Hershesons technician Lily Bunting-Branch, the 2018 perm is for those with fine, lifeless, hard-to-manage hair. She says: “We use traditional perming lotions with high-grade organic formulations that are kinder to the hair – but apply them to braids versus rollers or rods. The result is super-soft loose waves that alter the texture of the hair, making it look fuller and thicker and easier to style.”

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HOB Salons

TAKING THE INDUSTRY SERIOUSLY…

A BETTER YOU GO BACK TO SCHOOL

Whether you choose education or a fresh opportunity with another salon, 2018 is the year to better yourself… and there are plenty of chances to do just that. No time to leave the salon and hit a classroom?

Head online to Access by L’Oréal Professionnel (lorealaccess.com/uk). Access is the brand’s all-new online learning hub that allows you to learn whenever you want, wherever you are. Access enables you to learn at a place and time that is convenient for you and it’s available to all salons!

If you do have time to leave the salon, you must visit the new RUSH Academy in London’s Covent Garden. And if you’re looking to open your horizons and experience new opportunities – from franchising to stage work – but you want the support of a successful group behind you, HOB Salons is on the look out for talented individuals.

Despite contributing a cool £17 billion a year to the British economy, there has been no comprehensive representation of the specific needs and voices of the beauty industry.

As a result, we are an industry that is still not taken seriously, and which is facing the biggest recruitment crisis in its history.

Now a team of high-profile industry figures has established the British Beauty Council, with the aim of ensuring the beauty industry and its innovation, reputation and education can be recognised and valued at all levels: in government, through the wider economy and by consumers.

Spearheaded by BeautyMART’s Millie Kendall MBE and Anna-Marie Solowij, alongside beauty journalist Kate Shapland, the British Beauty Council board includes Talk PR chief executive Jane Boardman, Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock and This Works founder Kathy Phillips, supported by expert-led groups representing all sectors.

“Our priority in 2018 is to improve the reputation of the beauty industry as a profession, ensuring we attract a steady stream of high-quality candidates in the future,” says Catherine Handcock.

See more at britishbeautycouncil.com

ONE TO WATCH… ProStyles – the extensions brand that hails from the original and iconic Antenna salon in Kensington – is throwing down the gauntlet in 2018, with new owners, a new logo and a new campaign. And we love it! Creative HEAD favourite (and former It List double winner) Leigh Keates teamed up with extensions expert Stephanie Stevenson to create these brilliant images that showcase the range of colours and the natural movement that you can expect from ProStyles’ synthetic and real hair. Already stocked in more than 400 salons across the UK and Ireland, expect lots more from this exciting brand… check out Creative HEAD’s February issue to see more from Leigh and Stephanie’s fantastic shoot!

ProStyles

PROSTYLES HAIR EXTENSIONS

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ve s

2018!

Co o

lG

irl

Wa

WELL HELLO,

UNDER THE INFLUENCE ZOË IRWIN LIFTS THE LID ON HER NEW PROJECT

“I first developed The Influence Project to educate stylists on references, style tribes, eras and trend movements, and it’s a concept that I’ve been teaching for the ghd Style Squad teams.

“The more I realised how little was understood by hairdressers about trends, such as early ’90s hip-hop (which was being referenced constantly in magazines they aspired to shoot with), the more it spurred me on to create fresh education to enable them to work with the references that are given in the fashion world.

“This is a collaboration with Helen CharltonJones and Lauren Smith from That Girl That Edits, and we've brought the project to life by creating a series of films that show a fun, youthful look at different styles and trends. Each film takes a different influence and explores it visually with a ‘how to’, and slips into the world of the character.

The videos were shot simply and in bare studios.

“Each look is chosen by its different influence.

There are looks that have influenced a decade of

editorial like Cali Skate Girl in my Cool Girl Waves film. We’re always talking about ‘undone surfy waves’ in fashion, so we brought in a skater girl and looked at the influence of the hair in detail.

“Cross Braiding shows influence from the session stylist greats… it’s about one hairdresser being influenced by another. This is the hair from a Maison Margiela show by Eugene Souleiman, possibly one of the most copied and influential hairdressers of my time. It was one of the most reposted images from the shows, and I thought I bet hundreds of hairdressers would love to know how to attempt this!

“There are new ideas like Punk Stitching, influenced directly by fashion. We were sewing words onto our T-shirts, why not customise our hair? So you see the punk girl and we sew the words “not dead” into her hair.

“Then there are session tricks, like adding fringes to hair, that I knew would be fun to film.

For example, the Gucci fringe in upcoming Retro Mundane finds its heritage in ’80s American high school hair. I hope this project excites hairdressers to look further into the references of a style.”

g n i itch

t S k Pun 54

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Cross

Braid

ing

KEEP IT FRESH

ZOË’S TIPS ON LOOKING FOR INFLUENCES TO UPDATE YOUR WORK

1.

Know what’s going on around you – it’s easy these days with so much information available. You can sign up for daily emails from sites such as Refinery29, Broadly, WGSN, Business of Fashion, and you will then get a daily feed of concepts and ideas.

2.

Exhibitions create huge influence in trends, so make sure you go to all of the key ones – take your team and build a project around it. Or get together a great film list and turn it into an art team project – this is when exciting things happen.

3.

At the end of the day it’s about opening up the minds of others. Artist Jean-Michel Basquiat said: “Influence is not influence, it is simply someone’s idea going through my new mind”. The more you look at influences, the more your mind will be creative. Change your daily social feed and go out and view as much as possible.

l e d o m r e p u S s

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SEE MORE from Zoe Irwin and The Influence Project online at creativeheadmag.com/education

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WELL HELLO,

2018!

LAUNCH PAD

FIRE UP THE INNOVATION ROCKETS – THESE ARE THE NINE NEW RETAIL AND SERVICE IDEAS THAT HAVE US ALL HOT UNDER THE COLLAR

Promising unicorn colours that fade true to tone, Color Fresh Create from Wella Professionals delivers 12 shades (and one clear) of direct dyes that coat the hair and last up to 20 washes. The rainbow is real…

In-salon service; wella.com

Schwarzkopf Professional has got three A-list colourists and three hair influencers to create six IGORA ROYAL colours as part of a #RoyalTakeOver.

The UK’s Lesley Jennison and Brazilian colour specialist Jean Philippe Santos are up first…

In-salon service, schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

Take inspiration from skin care’s ‘multi-masking’ trend is The Circle Chronicles from Davines, a line of five scalp and hair masks designed to solve specific needs. Detoxify the scalp, but moisturise the lengths? It can all be done with these cute sachets.

RRP £7.90 each, davines.com

New to the UK, Celeb Luxury is a two-strong ‘colour insurance’, with Gem Lites for traditional colour shades and Viral for bolder hues. Colorwash with Colorposit technology is the centrepiece, for bold colour results.

RRP from £16.95, salon-success.co.uk

Redken is a busy bee – Shades EQ has four new pastel shades and two new silver shades fronted

by Vogue’s Sarah Harris.

With technique driving the market, Redken is also launching a Shades EQ Blending Bar in salons nationwide, to offer trending techniques.

In-salon service, redken.co.uk

Coming this spring, Pure Pigments from Goldwell will help you build a brilliant glow for your colour clients, delivering an almost holographic effect. It’s lots of fun and really tests your creativity.

In-salon service, goldwell.com

Skincare continues to influence the world of hair, and we’re here for it! In February, Redken is unveiling a world first in professional hair care – the All Soft Mega Recovery Sheet Mask, perfect for women who struggle with dry, puffy and fluffy hair!

RRP £12, redken.co.uk

Offer tailor-made highlights in half the time with new Instant Highlights from L’Oréal Professionnel, its first professional heat-boosted lightening system that will halve service time, out in February.

In-salon service, lorealprofessionnel.

The boffins at Affinage have created something for control freaks – enter Colour Your Way in either powder or liquid to thicken with no impact on lift or pH. In-salon service, affinage.com

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

YOUR FUTURE AWAITS HOB SALONS IS DEDICATED TO HELPING YOU ACHIEVE YOUR CAREER GOALS. WHETHER YOU WANT TO WIN AWARDS, OWN A SALON OR TRY YOUR HAND AT STAGE WORK, JOINING HOB WILL GET YOU THERE

THOSE OF US that are lucky enough to work in this amazing industry know that hairdressing is not just a job; it’s a doorway to some of the best career opportunities and experiences in the world.

But whether you’ve got a goal in mind or you need some inspiration as to where your hairdressing career could take you, where do you start? HOB Salons is the perfect springboard. It has a solid track record of encouraging and developing its staff to become the very best that they can be – and now the salon group wants you!

WHAT ARE YOUR CAREER GOALS?

Perhaps you want to own your own salon? ● Be an in-demand salon star? ● Travel the world? ● Win awards? ● Educate future talent? ●

JOIN HOB!

HOB SALONS WOULD LOVE TO HEAR FROM ANY NEW OR ESTABLISHED TALENT, EMAIL JOBS@HOBSALONS.COM

Developing talent and helping people to achieve their goals is part of the HOB Salons company ethos – so whatever you’re aiming for, you know that HOB can help you achieve it.

WE ACHIEVED OUR GOALS!

THE MANAGERS

SIMON BARKER & LAURA GLEN, SALON MANAGERS

Simon joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 1999 Laura joined as a receptionist in 2004

“Although we joined at different times, we both had the goal of achieving manager status and, with the support of HOB, we’ve worked our way to managing one of the largest and busiest salons in the group, which we’re very proud of.”

THE COLOUR CREATIVE THE AWARD WINNER

THE SALON STAR

SEAN NOLAN, HEAD OF TECHNICAL

JAKE UNGER, SENIOR EDUCATOR

AMELIA EVANS, STYLE DIRECTOR

Joined HOB as a senior colour tech in 2012

Joined HOB Salons as an apprentice in 2008

Joined HOB Salons as a stylist in 2015

“I started my career with another salon, but HOB had the opportunities for development I wanted.

Through the HOB Jamm training programme, I grew my portfolio and am now head of technical for all the collections, shows and stage work.”

“After working my way up from apprentice to senior educator at HOB, I’ve been given the opportunity to win international trophies, teach at the Academy and present on stages all over the world. It’s been hard work, but 100 per cent worth it.”

“Soon after joining, I attended a HOB Build Your Column course, which helped me to become one of the most in-demand stylists here. I also enjoy teaching in the Academy, but get my main buzz from making clients feel fabulous.”

Achieve your career goals with HOB Salons. To find out more, visit hobsalons.com CREATIVE HEAD

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S S E R P !

EX RSELF U O Y ’S TO T I , ING R HAIR H T Y AN H THEI S T ESH N R T I E F I CL T W COLOR EY R N H E T U O M HT Y EXPERI OF NEW S MEANS LL G U FU AL 7 TA AID TO AUNCH Y N 1 O O 0 J I 2 SS HEY EN FR THE L IF E T A D F S N E O A A B R NOT UR. NOW ELLA P RENT – HANGE – E W COLO E FROM BE DIFF OM TO C YEAR O T W ED CREA N DARE T ND FRE THE NE Y A P INTO CA T I V I T JUM CREA

FUTURE YELLOW, HYPER CORAL, NEVERSEEN GREEN. MEET THE GATEWAY SHADES OF THE NEW HAIR COLOUR SPECTRUM. UNTIL RECENTLY, SALON COLOURISTS HAD TO CUSTOM-CREATE SHADES LIKE THESE, BUT AS DEMAND HAS GROWN, SO HAS INNOVATION. NEW COLOR FRESH CREATE FROM COTY’S WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS A SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR RANGE THAT NOT ONLY DELIVERS BOLD SHADES RIGHT OUT OF THE TUBE, BUT THEY FADE TRUE TO TONE, SO YOU CAN GET REALLY, REALLY CREATIVE WITH YOUR SALON COLOUR. CASE IN POINT: OPAL BALAYAGE, HOLOGRAPHIC FADES, AND, WELL, YOU NAME IT. JUST LOOK AT THE COLOUR MAGIC FROM THESE FIVE #COLORCREATORS! 58

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Pre-lightened with Blondor freelights + 12% & Wellaplex. Color Fresh Create: All neat: High Magenta, Ultra Purple, Super Petrol, Hyper Coral.

Before

#colorcreators

CLAYDE BAUMANN

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER If I could work with one person, it would be…

Karl Lagerfeld. He’s my fashion hero. I love his taste and style and I admire the way he has extended everything he does to his personal life.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a young colourist…

On the one hand, make sure you stay true to everything you have learned. But in remembering it all don’t let anyone mould you into something you are not.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t about hair…

The power of observation and the ability to stay aware of your surroundings. So many people walk down the road and never look above their immediate eye line.

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Fun, innovative and colourful!”

CLAYDE BAUMANN

The most colourful place I’ve been to is…

My home country – South Africa. It has every possible climate and natural setting you can imagine. We have forest, jungle, beaches, deserts, farmland, cornfields… it’s so diverse.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Yellow. I identify yellow as an energetic, positive colour that gives energy and happiness. It’s a very good carrier of those emotions and I am drawn to that.

CREATIVE HEAD

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Freehand painted Blondor Freelights +9% & Wellaplex. Illumina Color 6/16, 5/02, 5/81.

Color Fresh Create: All neat: Super Petrol, Never Seen Green, New Blue.

#colorcreators

JAYSON GRAY

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER Three places that are guaranteed sources of inspiration…

1. I am always very happy browsing in old book shops.

2. My partner’s sewing box. He’s a menswear designer and when he’s placing layers of fabric together it’s great to watch.

3. Kitchen shops! I’ve got an obsession with crockery, pots and pans, and I love chrome and glass and anything that has a dispensary vibe.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a young colourist…

Always look under the door mat. Don’t be afraid of who you are and always be the maverick, never the victim.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t about hair…

Mathematics. When you really think about it, maths and science dominate colour.

The formula to my colour career so far…

Free expression + strategy + mathematics = me!

COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Bold, beautiful and brilliant!”

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Grey, of course! Any shade of grey. If you are born with a colour as your name, you must embrace it.

JAYSON GRAY

Before

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL Pre-lightened with Blondor Cream & 6% + Wellaplex. Toner 10/16, 9/16 Koleston Perfect & Pastel. Color Fresh Create: Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink. Mixed 1:30 with Tomorrow Clear – Next Red & High Magenta.

Before

#colorcreators

ROBERT EATON

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER My wish at the end of the rainbow…

Honestly, it’s very simple – just happiness with my family.

Three places that are guaranteed sources of inspiration…

1. My salon. My team are so creative and never fail to inspire me.

2. Travel is a great way to boost my energy and generate new fresh ideas – there isn’t one country that particularly inspires me, just anywhere new and interesting!

3. From a business perspective, I love being in amazing hotels and restaurants because we can really learn from the way other industries treat their customers.

If I could work with one person, it would be…

Trevor Sorbie MBE. He’s a legend.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t about hair…

Communication. In salon work, getting a clients’ hair colour completely bespoke and right for them is a case of talking the same language and understanding exactly what they want from their visit. One person’s interpretation of ‘light blonde’ is will be completely different to the next person’s.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Blue. It’s a strong but calm colour, and I like that.

CREATIVE HEAD

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EATE IS… COLOR FRESH CR

e l b i x e fl , e v i t a e r C “ and exciting!”

ROBERT EATON

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COLOR FRESH CREATES

THE LOWDOWN

A TRUE CREATIVE SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR CREAM, WHICH FADES TRUE TO TONE OVER TIME AND PASTELISES DURING EACH WASH, WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOR FRESH CREATE LASTS UP TO 20 WASHES, GRADUALLY FADING INTO BEAUTIFUL SOFT PASTEL HUES THANKS TO CAREFULLY SELECTED DYES THAT AVOID AN OFF-TONE FADE. ITS AMMONIA-, FRAGRANCEAND PEROXIDE-FREE PRECISION CREAM FORMULA ENABLES CONTROLLED APPLICATION AND UNLIMITED COLOURING TECHNIQUES, MEANING YOU CAN MAKE YOUR CLIENTS FEEL AS UNIQUE AS YOUR LATEST CREATION!

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Pre-lightened with Blondor Soft Blonde Cream + 6% and Wellaplex.

Toned with Color Touch Instamatics Muted Mauve 1.9%. Color Fresh Create: Mixed 1:1 with Tomorrow Clear – Ultra Purple & Pure Violet.

er

Before

#colorcreators COLOR FRESH CREATE IS…

“Cool, playful and dynamic!”

CLAIRE CHELL

CLAIRE CHELL

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER Three places that are guaranteed sources of inspiration…

1. Africa – it is so colourful in so many ways.

2. A colour run. I love running and a colour run is when you run through an explosion of colour powders. By the end of the run you are completely covered!

3. Milan Fashion Week. They don’t play it safe in Milan and are more likely to deliver the shock factor. It’s definitely a place to predict trends.

I couldn’t work without…

Wella Professionals Illumina Color. It is the core product for my classic clientele.

If I could work with one person, it would be…

It would honestly be all of the Colour Club. I am so lucky that I get the luxury of working with my icons – they are all incredible colourists.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a young colourist…

Never lose your colour identity.

Be true to yourself.

The most colourful place I’ve been to is…

Sri Lanka. There was a big festival when I was there last with costumes, flames and elephants – the vibe was incredible.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Freehand painted Blondor Freelights and 12% + Wellaplex.

Roots: 7/43, 6/37, 8/05 combined with 6. Color Fresh Create: Mixed 1:20 with Tomorrow Clear – Nu-Dist Pink, Next Red & Hyper Coral.

#colorcreators

SEAN NOLAN

WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER Three places that are guaranteed sources of inspiration…

1. Southbank in London. I go there all the time and on each visit I take inspiration from something different. It is so exciting and vibrant.

2. Berlin. There’s a real sense of the past meets the future in Berlin, and I think that’s really important at the moment.

3. Fader magazine and website. I feel like young urban multiculturalism is where it’s at right now.

The one piece of advice I would pass on to a young colourist…

Being a good colourist means learning from the mistakes that you make.

The skill colourists should learn that isn’t about hair…

An insight into cultural history, because it gives you a reference. It is something a lot of people don’t have: the ability to delve deeper into a concept or idea and develop it.

COLOR FRE SH CREATE IS…

“Fresh, inn ovative and free!”

SEAN NOLA N

The most colourful place I’ve been to is…

Grenada. The people there are such colourful characters – in a very understated way.

The colour that best encapsulates me is…

Right now at this stage of my life – pink! It’s a colour that you either love or hate, and it’s very transient. Pink can be all out and very bold, or soft and subtle.

Before For more about Wella Professionals Color Fresh CREATE, call 0845 7045775 or visit wella.com 65

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13/12/2017 15:43

Zoë Irwin

Adam Slama

Johanna Cree-Brown

Casey Coleman

HAPPY NEW YEAR! JOIN CREATIVE HEAD AND AN ALL-STAR LINE-UP ON MONDAY 29 JANUARY AS THE COTERIE DEBATES THE POWER AND INFLUENCE OF CREATIVE RITUALS IN HAIR, PHOTOGRAPHY, FILM, FASHION, AND BEYOND

FEATURING:

CASEY COLEMAN JOHANNA CREE-BROWN HARRY EVANS ZOË IRWIN LAN NGUYEN-GREALIS ADAM SLAMA & ROGER SPY 66-67_Coterie.indd 1

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JA

N ARY/MARCH 2018 BRU FE Y/ AR U

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THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

opportunities to groom …to a New Year, and plenty of ial. While we have spec your 2018 into something very from the legendary hes finis some stunningly raw and real community the on t ligh Paul Merritt, we also shine a Lions Barber the with king work of modern barbers, spea n’s inso Rob ter Mis Collective’s Tom Chapman and gents will e thes of Both n.

Barbershop hero, Matt Robinso too.

8, be on stage at Salon Smart 201

GET SMART

1.

2.

3.

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER See: Barber Shop Chronicles, a dynamic play at the National Theatre that leaps from a barber shop in Peckham to Ghana, Uganda, Nigeria, Zimbabwe and South Africa. Be quick, the show finishes on 9 January! nationaltheatre.org.uk Get creative: The Master of Men’s Grooming Multi-Tool course from American Crew teaches you to create with a shear, clipper and razor. 27 February, Leeds, americancrew.com Visit: Salon Smart to see a quartet of experts discuss the booming men’s market, including Most Wanted Male Grooming Expert, Jonathan Andrew, and Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon (pictured). 25 to 26 March, creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

YO TO U NE ME ED ET…

welcomes you…

JOE MILLS Joe and Co, Soho

Describe yourself in five words: Driven, busy, creative, adhoc, dad.

What’s exciting you about British barbering right now?

That hair is getting longer again and it’s becoming all about the texture and movement.

The man was an amazing cutter and made me look at shape and form. To think of hair as a moving, living thing… he had an almost architectural view of hair.

If I could change one thing…

It would be how the NVQ process works, with funding and apprenticeship length, for people coming into the industry. The amount of time given to complete the qualifications against the length of contract we can offer.

Who else should we get to know…

Jody Taylor, Ross Parlane and Charlie Cullen. They are pushing men’s hair in new directions. I like their work ethic and their creativity. It’s not about skin fades for these guys, and they’re really mixing it up with texture and unstructured work. Ross has two stores now in Manchester and is really at the top of his game.

Everything changed for me when…

I called Fish Hairdressing in 1991 and asked for a job, which started me on my career journey. Soho in the ’90s was amazing and scary.

You might not know this about me…

I grew up in Margate in Kent, which at the time wasn’t cool. It’s now having an amazing rebirth.

The barber who inspired me the most is…

My first boss, Guert Renzenbrink.

Say hello to me at… @joemillshair @joeandcosoho

ON THE COVER Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC

02 Mister Quarterly

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NEW GROOM ROOM Ted’s Grooming Room, Tower 42, London

Congratulations to Kyle Ross, founder of the Aberdeen barber shop Huntsman, who scooped the title of Best UK Barber 2017 at the grand final of the International Barber Awards in Germany. Quite the first anniversary for the Huntsman shop!

WHAT MAKES A GREAT BARBER?

Patience (85%)

Good communication (75%)

Discipline (67%) Passion (66%) Respect (64%) Source: Armour to Barber and The Bluebeards Revenge

BBA UNVEILS STEERING GROUP Located in the bustle of the city of London, in the iconic Tower 42, this is Ted’s 12th store and has four barber chairs available to keep all those city gents looking spick-and-span.

Of course, there are the traditional Turkish shaves that the brand is well-known for, but it also offers something of a retreat from the daily grind of financial shenanigans, and its own range of grooming products is there to take home, too.

63%

The British Barbers’ Association is launching a steering group to help guide its policy and interaction with government and its agencies. The idea is to ensure that a broader range of members’ views are represented. Chaired by barbering educator Erik Lander, the group will offer insight on long-term strategies to help the industry, including pushing education to fill skills gaps.

PRIME NUMBERS

supported by

OF BARBERS believe there’s not currently enough quality talent to cope with the rising demand from consumers, according to research by Armour to Barber and The Bluebeards Revenge. About 83 per cent of those working in the industry think the barbering sector will continue to flourish, but that a ‘conveyor belt’ system is putting pressure on barbers to complete cuts quickly (dubbed the ‘10-minute haircut’) without taking the time to consult with the client. Two-thirds of barbershop owners said they are finding it difficult to hire a quality barber.

Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk Mister Quarterly 03

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ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP Bluebeards Revenge Sea Salt Spray gives hair a hold that’s tighter than the grip of Davy Jones’s Locker, without any of the sinking feeling for hold, volume and texture.

RRP £9.99 01752 989191 bluebeardsrevenge.co.uk

Shabby mud from Oway is a soft-hold clay wax to define and separate with a weathered effect.

The Dark Stag premium straight razor is perfect for shaving, tidying beards, facial hair and the nape of the neck.

01903 209409 darkstag.com

RRP £18.90 01283 586986 oway.co.uk

Fine Fettle is a range of Blue unique, all natural beard Cedar conditioners, beard oils from V76 by and natural waxes Vaughn specifically designed has a woody for facial hair. Neat! aroma with notes of coconut RRP from £6.99 and leather.

020 3608 6178 RRP £35 finefettlegrooming. com 01442 248104 v76.com

SMOOTH MOVER Rich Shave Cream from TIGI’s Bed Head for Men will calm and soften the roughest of chins.

Salon price £16+VAT

The Dover wash station is a classic and there’s the option to integrate hot towels for traditional shaving services.

KMS Hybrid FINISHers are perfect for genderless grooming.

RRP £21.50 01323 432100 kmshair.com

American Crew’s new Firm Hold Styling Cream is a multipurpose marvel to nurture, sculpt and tame.

RRP £10.95

From £2,150

RRP £12.90

0844 8440944 bedhead.com

020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

020 7391 7440 americancrew. com

04 Mister Quarterly

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ESSENTIAL MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH

MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN CREW PRODUCT IS BOOST POWDER – I CAN USE IT ON ALL SORTS OF STYLES FROM DRY POMPS TO SHORTER MESSY CROPS; ONCE I HAVE BLOW-DRIED THE STYLE INTO THE SHAPE I WANT, I APPLY BOOST POWDER. I WORK IT FROM ROOT TO LENGTH AND IT MAKES HAIR BENDY AND PLIABLE SO I CAN COMB, TWIST OR SEPARATE INTO THE FINAL SHAPE. IT’S EASY AND REALLY VERSATILE. I ALWAYS HAVE IT ON ME FOR STAGE WORK

David Raccuglia with 2017 All Star winner Adam Mir

BALDY, BALDY’S BARBER SHOPS

We love the texture being served here by American Crew Elite Team member Sam Wall (@mrsamwall), using the new American Crew Tech Series Boost Spray.

No wonder it’s our Instagram cut of the quarter! Want to put forward a cut to be considered for the next issue of Mr Q? Post it on Instagram, tag in @americancrewuk and @creativeheadmag and use #MrQCrewCloseUp. Good luck!

#MrQCrewCloseUp

ACCEPT THE CHALLENGE The model. The cut. The photograph. Bring all those ingredients together to create your interpretation of the American Crew man. This is the All Star Challenge, the A-list global competition for barbers and men’s hairdressers that recognises the very best of the best. The Challenge is now open – and the prize is perfect, too! All 15 finalists will spend

a week with top grooming experts including American Crew founder David Raccuglia, to perfect the American Crew Menswork method of styling, and then they go head to head in a fierce battle with the best groomers on the globe for the All Star trophy… and a cool $10,000! Find out more at americancrew.com/ allstarchallenge

As any good barber knows, it’s important to share what you love – and we’re doing exactly that this month with American Crew’s Fiber Cream! We have five to give away to anyone who wants to have a play with this fibrous cream that offers medium hold and natural shine. It’s great on medium to long hair! All you need to do is follow @americancrewuk on Instagram and use the hashtag #MrQFiberCompetition on any post. Easy!

Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com

AmericanCrewUK Mister Quarterly 05

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Suicide is the single biggest killer of UK men under the age of 45. It’s a destructive force that can be felt in communities all around the country. Yet very little is being done to address why young men are struggling to the point where some take their own lives – and so some of the nation’s leading barbers are taking matters into their own hands, launching projects designed to challenge preconceptions about men.

Tom Chapman, owner of Tom Chapman Hair Design in Torquay, was devastated when his friend Alex committed suicide. “I spoke to him days before he took his own life and I knew nothing. I didn’t pick up on it and he didn’t share anything with me,” said Tom. “How can this happen? Is it because of stigma and taboo? Or because of the stereotype of men as strong? I spoke to our friends and said we needed to do something. A year later it had manifested as the Lions Barber Collective.”

SEE TOM CHAPMAN AND MATT ROBINSON AT 26 MARCH AT THE PARK PLAZA, LONDON

06 Mister Quarterly

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The Lions Barber Collective is a mission in two parts. The first is to raise awareness for mental wellbeing and suicide prevention.

“We have a presence at many events where there may be a high male percentage attending, such as hair shows, live music and sporting events,” Tom explains. The second part is BarberTalk – a bespoke mental health and suicide awareness course condensed into one day especially for the hair industry.

“The aim is not to turn barbers into counsellors – rather we hope to give them the confidence to become that bridge between people and the organisations that are available,” adds Tom. Matt Robinson, founder of Mister Robinson’s Barbershop in Rugby, knows what it’s like to experience difficulty as a young man – during his teenage years he was homeless for a time.

Getting through it inspired him to provide help for men who need it. “I was a local lad with a darker past, but I had turned the corner and was walking a straighter path thanks to my faith,” Matt explains. “I worked in a local barber shop, but I couldn’t do everything I needed to do for my community. That’s how Mister Robinson’s started – as a place where people could hang out, be safe, not feel judged and also get a good haircut. We opened our doors in 2013 to support our local homeless shelter Hope4, which was above the shop.”

Matt created The Beard Club to celebrate the men who are doing great things in their communities, who work to raise money for charity and to unify men who hold these values from around the world – it now has more than 5,000 active members.

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Liam Hamilton

Thanks to their communication skills and sensitivity, barbers are well equipped to encourage men to open up about how they feel. Research conducted by the Lions Barber Collective, together with male grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, has found that of the 1,908 men asked, 53 per cent admitted they were more likely to discuss private issues such as depression with their barbers than with a health professional.

The study also found that 78 per cent of men make a conscious effort to regularly visit the same barber, demonstrating the strength of this bond. “Barbers and hairstylists have a unique position of trust from which we can build strong relationships with our clients,” says Tom. “People tell us things they wouldn’t tell their closest friends and family. As barbers we have an incredibly privileged position of intimacy.”

Tom Chapman also holds Lions Den meetings once a month in the salon, where a volunteer support worker will share information and support in a non-clinical environment, and Walking As Lions events, where they gather at the seafront.

“We encourage those with mental health issues or those struggling with anything to attend and get to know others with similar issues and understandings,” Tom says.

These meetings are fuelled by Domino’s Pizza, which provides sustenance for free. “The best bit about teaming up with Domino’s is that it has agreed to put our leaflets with its boxes,” says Tom. “People with states of depression and other mental illness can become isolated and might tend to order delivery food. With our leaflets on the box, we are reaching the unreachable.”

08 Mister Quarterly

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The Bluebeards Revenge is helping The Lions Barber Collective to get the message out further – the inside of the product cartons will be covered with advice, statistics and contact details for The Samaritans – and this year will see The Bluebeards Revenge launch a new styling gel which will donate a percentage of profits to The Lions Barber Collective.

The male grooming brand also supports Armour to Barber, an organisation that helps ex-service men and women into the barbering industry. Research has shown that 83 per cent of those in the barbering sector believe their industry will continue to flourish, but 63 per cent think there are not enough quality barbers to cope with rising demand.

Founder of Armour to Barber and former British Army officer, Liam Hamilton, believes that this gap can be filled by ex-military personnel: “Ex-servicemen and women have all the attributes to take the trade by storm: patience, people skills, an attention to detail and the ability to stand on their feet all day without complaint,” he says.

Meanwhile, fragrance brand TABAC has launched “Shave The Day”, a campaign in aid of Age UK that encourages barbershops to open their doors and welcome in older men who may feel isolated. Luke Dolan, owner of Luke’s Barbershop in Ruislip, says: “Barber shops have community spirit at their very heart and that’s why I wanted to play my part in bringing back community values and get people talking to each other, young or old.”

Matt Robinson has also been working hard to find more ways to support his community. The barber shop has sponsored live stages at Rugby’s Bike Festival and also works with Thaibo, a local kickboxing group that helps encourage children to take up sport. Mister Robinson’s helps support fighters and has even bought a boxing ring. And the soup kitchen above the shop continues to feed those who need it, with staff regularly working shifts.

This is the new definition of “manning up” – the toughest guys are using their strength to help their brothers in times of need.

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10 Mister Quarterly

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C O N T R O L WITH THE IDEA OF MOVING AWAY FROM THE PERCEIVED ‘CLASSIC MAN’, PAUL MERRITT STREET-CAST GUYS WHO WERE HAPPY FOR HIM DO WHAT HE LIKED; “THIS WAS US WANTING TO DO SOMETHING STRIPPED BACK…” PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID SCHULZE Mister Quarterly 11

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Hair by Paul Merritt for ARROJO NYC. Casting by Cheeky Mister Quarterly 13

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#TRENDING

London Fashion Week Men’s ‘New Romantic Club Kid’ was the name of the game at Topman S/S18, with the show conjuring up images of ’80s boys enjoying a long night in the club… Matt Mulhall for Fudge Professional was tasked with creating hair that’s left with that post-night energy. Fudge Professional Hair Gum was liberally applied from root to ends, before blow-drying with a brush created volume and wet-look texture. To mould the shape, Hair Gum was added to the temples, while lashings of Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra held everything in place. To evoke the New Romantic era in all its vibrant glory, a generous dose of glitter was applied all over the head and set in place with Skyscraper Extra.

We just can’t get enough…

Images courtesy of Fudge Professional

TOPMAN S/S18

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SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION PORTERS

Bora Esen

East Dulwich

Clients who walk into a Porters barber shop are always made to feel right at home with a complimentary drink – anything from coffee and tea infusions to a cold beer or a scotch. It’s a name that’s developed from a single barber shop in Dulwich Village seven years ago to a lifestyle brand with four South London locations. Exposed brickwork, vintage barber chairs, Edison filament bulbs… it all adds to the eclectic and intimate atmosphere.

There are old-school techniques in play, as sinks at each work station have chairs that can rotate so clients experience the ‘front dunk’. It also has the 350 Club, a men’s grooming club (limited to 350 members) that for £20 a week offers two weekly treatments, priority appointments and exclusive invitations to Porter events.

What founder Bora Esen believes sets Porters apart is its ability to quickly become the hub of any community its locate in. The focus is on giving back: from apprenticeship programmes in the shops to working with and sponsoring local schools and charities.

Inside, it’s all about Crew and a brew – American Crew has been stocked by Bora since it first landed in the UK, and all the shops include baristas trained in-house, just like its barbers. “We have always served coffee, but never this specialised and we felt like it was the right time to crank things up,” explains Bora.

If the setting looks familiar, it’s because its shops are regular destinations for filming and photography – the BBC, ITV, MTV and Sky Sports are just a few of who’ve set up shoots within its doors. Its most recent opening was Brixton, a base Bora says is “like nowhere else in London.

It’s a total melting pot, so you never know who’s going to walk through the door, or which style they’ll want”.

Brixton

Dulwich Village

WITH FOUR SHOPS ACROSS LONDON, THIS BRAND HAS OPTED FOR AN UNASHAMEDLY MASCULINE APPROACH

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DON’T LOSE FACE NEW A high performance hair and grooming range created by hairdressers and barbers to get your hair & face on the same page.

To find out how Bed Head for Men can grow your grooming business call: 08448 440 944.

WWW.BEDHEAD.COM www.tigiprofessional.com

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Tony Glenville

Lan Nguyen-Grealis

Roger Spy

Harry Evans

HAPPY NEW COTERIE! 29.01.18 LIVE PANEL DEBATE! LIVE PANEL DEBATE! HOSTED BY TONY GLENVILLE

THE COTERIE: CREATIVE RITUALS 7-10PM. LONDON

TICKETS £25 EACH OR TWO FOR £40 Includes canapes, drinks all evening and a gift from L’Oréal Professionnel BUY ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/THECOTERIE OR CALL 01434 610416

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E S YOUR A E L RE POTENTIAL

ARE YOU READY TO PUSH YOURSELF FURTHER AND ENTER THE WELLA TRENDVISION AWARD 2018?

BUT HOW CAN YOU MAKE SURE YOUR ENTRY STANDS OUT? IT’S ALL IN THE PREP… WHETHER YOU WANT to drive your career forward by achieving your goals or entering the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award, Wella has got a course for you. Providing the best education around and inspiring the hairdressing industry is what drives Wella Professionals, and its 2018 education programme is where you’ll find the perfect solution for every member of your team.

You can start planning your education by downloading the Wella Education Book 2018.

Here is our round-up of the courses to attend if you’re looking to push yourself further this year...

COLOUR CREATE

This is an advanced course to help you stay on trend – perfect for those who want to get their Color Vision entry right. Learn how to create new and daring mixtures, and inspire your clients.

TVA 2018 CREATE YOUR LOOK

BOOK IT! To book a course, contact your Wella Studio

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This is a must if you’re entering TrendVision Award 2018! Join the inspirational Wella Professionals team and industry photographers across the Wella studio network and capture the perfect look to enter the photographic heat of TrendVision Award.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

ARE YOU READY?

You’ve found your inspiration to enter Wella TrendVision Award 2018, now choose your category…

• Color Vision • Creative Vision • Male Grooming • Runway

HOW TO ENTER TVA 2018

FOR THOSE LOOKING FOR EXTRA INSPIRATION FOR THEIR ENTRY, FOLLOW @WELLAHAIR ON INSTAGRAM FOR HOT TIPS AND EXCITING IMAGERY FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS’ AMAZING PORTFOLIO OF TOP MENTORS

Image courtesy of Toni&Guy

To enter, request your entry pack by speaking to your Wella account manager, contact the Wella Events Team on 0845 6018128 or email wellaevents@cotyinc.com.

Or download an entry form from wella.co.uk/trendvision

Wella supports you every step of the way so see how the brand can help you today.

To get started, download your copy of the Wella Education Book 2018 at education.wella.com CREATIVE HEAD

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STATEMENT OF INTENT FRESH FROM DENIS ROBINSON AND RICHARD TUCKER AT RUFFIANS, ‘CREDO’ WAS BORN FROM THE BRAND’S PHILOSOPHY TO EMBRACE BOTH PURE BARBERING AND HAIRDRESSING WHILE ALWAYS PUSHING BOUNDARIES PHOTOGRAPHY BY MATT HOLYOAK CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Denis Robinson and Richard Tucker at Ruffians. STYLING Callum Vincent. GROOMING Paul Haskell SEE MORE from this shoot, including a behind-the-scenes video at creativeheadmag.com

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s s e l h t a e r B be a u t i f u l a n d Fresh , he alth , the gle aming witeh He adm aste rs hair in th Dry colle ction 2018 Blowclie nts , he arts will m ake tle bit faste r be at a lit PHOTOGRAPHY BY JAMES KEMMENOE 74

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HAIR Headmasters Pro Artistic Team – Jonathan Soons, Siobhan Jones, Nicole Iroh, Clare Hansford and Gareth Williams using L’Oréal Professionnel. CREATIVE DIRECTION AND STYLING Laura Hinton. MAKE-UP Andriani Vasiliou

Scene Cirque de SYD HAYES

Syd Hayes

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

FULL OF DAZZLING SPECTACLES, daring interactive experiences and deftly coiffed creations, the first ever Featured Artist LIVE event left attendees awestruck. Dreamed up by the night’s ringmaster, Most Wanted 2017 Session Stylist Syd Hayes, the new Creative HEAD Education evening (held in association with BaByliss PRO) had a twisted circus theme.

Blending laughter and learning, it saw guests pushing creative boundaries while playing with hair in fun and fascinating new ways. Through Syd’s lens, the process of transforming a look with hair pieces and wefts became a warped game of pin the ponytail (or fringe) on the donkey. Against a neon-lit backdrop of Syd’s tear-sheets, guests undertook a nearly-nude life-drawing class using hair colour as ink. A shooting gallery featured paint-filled balloons suspended above pieces from Syd’s wig wardrobe, with attendees queuing up to take aim with darts. And another row of mannequin heads, each with 16 wigs hand-sewn together, allowed participants to sculpt shapes using suspended sets of clippers. At the end of the night, when guests had tried each activity, Syd took to the mic to conduct an impromptu Q&A session. He also doled out boxes of his new styling accessory, the Syd Pin, to audience members who had impressed in each of the tasks. Thanks to event sponsors BaByliss PRO, everyone also went home with a goodie bag featuring one of the brand’s top electrical tools. What a finale!

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Catherine Handcock with Samantha Hillerby

Catherine Handcock with Ky Wilson

SEE KY WILSON SPEAK AT

LARGER

25 MARCH AT THE PARK PLAZA, LONDON

than life THE COTERIE POPPED up at Lambert’s Yard in Leeds for tales of session, styling, salons and success from two very different hairdressers.

First up was Samantha Hillerby, a local girl done very good – and by good, we mean landing front covers of Vogue and tending to the tresses of Victoria Beckham and Cara Delevingne, among others. Interviewed

by Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, Samantha spoke about moving to London and working with Guido and Nicky Clarke, and discussed her studio in Swanland, near Hull. She revealed the best advice she ever received was from Mark Hill, who told her to ‘Milk it, girl!’ From style maven to style maverick, The It List It Guy 2017, Ky Wilson, started out in hairdressing “because I needed a job”, opening his own spaces in warehouses. In true Ky style, he had a refreshing take on social media: “I’d rather get a ‘like’ in person, from someone saying ‘I liked that’. You see hairdressers who are in the right place at the right time, doing a cool band’s hair and having fun, but they can’t cut hair. They just want to be famous because of Instagram.” And the product he can’t live without?

“A hairdryer… and my mouth.” Guests left feeling inspired and with a lucky dip goodie bag, courtesy of BaByliss PRO.

2017

2017 WINNER THE IT GUY

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TIGI’s Anthony and Pat Mascolo

A night on

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THE TOWN

THE GREAT AND THE GOOD have been entertained at Café de Paris and, for one night only, we were invited to enjoy an evening at the famous London nightclub with the TIGI Inspirational Youth Team. The event began with the nine team members presenting their looks to a packed-out audience. Each team member cut and finished their model live on stage, explaining where they got their inspiration from, the TIGI products they used to create the look and the colours created using TIGI copyright©olour.

Punk, Bowie, cyber and sci-fi were all referenced. The evening ended with a recreation by the TIGI International Creative Team of its show, Utopia, which it originally performed for the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall.

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Stylists @franking24 and @drueboybarber enjoyin g V Festival

Tea mwork in action!

Looking after @chefluketho mas backstage at @vfestival

In the

Ou r new barber shop in @creative hea dm ag

frame

We are two years old!

Daniel Rymer, founder of Bristol’s Daniel Rymer Male Grooming (@danielrymerhair) and an #avedaartist competition winner, snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

Fellow #avedaartist winner @kenny.y-- with his awesome model

Fran busy backst age at V Festival

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Drue and Fran get busy on the #avedaartist shoot

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STR I V E TO BE U N R I VA L L E D TAKE YOUR PLACE AMONGST THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME. BECOME A GREAT LENGTHS EXTENSIONIST TO UNLOCK LIMITLESS LOOKS AND CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES. Our extensions are 100% human hair. We have a global reputation for excellence and an inspiring team of expert educators.

Great Lengths is in a class of its own. Don’t you want to be a part of it? Find out how you can become a Great Lengths certified stylist.

GREATLENGTHSHAIR.CO.UK/BECOME-A-CERTIFIED-STYLIST

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