Creative HEAD UK January 2023

THE FUTURE IS

BARBERING AND HAIRDRESSING ARE CONVERGING

BLENDED IS A CAMPAIGN FROM WAHL THAT CELEBRATES AND PROMOTES THE NEW LANDSCAPE – A BLENDING OF THE ROLES OF BARBER AND STYLIST… AND A FRESH ATTITUDE TO HAIR. PROMOTING MODERN, MULTI-FUNCTIONAL BLENDED HAIRCUTS AND STYLES THAT ARE NOT DEFINED BY GENDER OR ETHNICITY, THIS IS A CAMPAIGN THAT ASTUTELY ILLUSTRATES THE WORLD IN WHICH WE WORK AND CREATE

CUSTOMER NEEDS ARE CHANGING

ALIKE ASPIRE TO

VERSION OF BEAUTY. CUSTOMER

VERSATILITY

WAHL PROFESSIONAL PORTFOLIO,

WHEN WORLDS COLLIDE, PURPOSE EMERGES

Sharing and showcasing modern barbering skills have exploded through social media, and the impact on our industry’s landscape is immense. Those barbering skills are blending into the salon hairdressing environment, while the new breed of barber shop is blending into a more hybrid environment too. Meanwhile, hairdressing, styling and cutting skills are integrating with traditional barber skills. The new age of the hair stylist is here…

Alan Beak

NEW ARTISTS FOR A NEW DIRECTION

A radical team was curated by WAHL’s global artistic director, Simon Shaw, to bring this new vision to life. Fresh to the WAHL family comes session stylist Nick Irwin, consultant hair artist for WAHL and with decades of high-end editorial and fashion experience. Through his work with the photographer Rankin and fashion bible Hunger, Nick understands the contemporary beauty landscape implicitly.

Alan Beak, WAHL’s creative consultant, is an award-winning barber trained in traditional Italian barbering, classic hairdressing and Afro-Caribbean textured work – the epitome of the hybrid barber/stylist.

Sam Campagna, WAHL UK's lead educator, excels at short hair education and is laser-focused on guiding the next generation to find their own path.

HAIR Nick Irwin, Alan Beak, Sam Campagna. STYLING Kim Howells.

MAKE-UP Marco Antonio. PHOTOGRAPHY Ben Cook.

CREATIVE HEAD ADVERTORIAL

Nick Irwin

Sam Campagna

A NEW VISION; A NEW WAY OF LEARNING

Read the shoot’s style notes, and you’ll see ‘90s-inspired sophisticated grunge with a dash of punk. Captured on large format 4K digital to allow the models’ personalities to shine through, this shoot used additional VHS, Super 8, and aerial urban shots via drone. Why? To acquire a breadth and variety of arresting imagery and content to encapsulate the new world order, and to deliver to every blended barber and stylist the key insight into how to translate these trends, these looks, these skills for themselves, their way. Always moving forward, WAHL has created a series of short Moments Films that deliver the vital nuances and tips of how to get the looks using the exceptional portfolio of WAHL Professional tools.

CHAMPIONING THE BEST HAIR STYLING, CUTTING AND DRESSING

WAHL supports artistic expression in all its current and emerging forms via engineering design, innovation, reliability, quality, trust and total creative expression.

The brand is passionate about enriching the lives of all hair artists – session stylists, barbers, salon stylists, business owners and their customers. You’ll see WAHL’s electrical engineering expertise, applied to hair with styling tools that empower you to create with freedom. What will your blend be?

EDITOR’S LETTER 28

62

I’M GOING TO cut to the chase; 2023 is looking incredibly challenging for businesses… frankly, for everybody in general. Living costs are rising, impacting your clients’ spend. The cost of running a salon is rocketing, especially those energy bills. It’s daunting, make no mistake – but this is where attitude wins the day. We’ve been through recessions before. Often beauty fares well as consumers fight to keep those treats that deliver the much-needed feelgood factor. It’s going to be a year of hard work, and we’re here to help every step of the way. First up, check out our Resolutions & Revolutions feature (page 36), packed with business-building education ideas, cost-cutting advice, ways to work smarter and new ideas to build into your business. Second, this January we are offering you a Creative HEAD subscription for FREE – a New Year gift from us (page 52). And third, we’re launching Salon Smart London, our day of brilliant business inspiration (page 56). Keep 20 March open to see salon owners sharing what they’re going through and how they’re growing. Let’s take 2023 by the horns and show it what this industry is made of –it won’t know what’s hit it!

Amanda Nottage Editorial director

JOIN US!

Happy 2023! We hope you’re ready for a new roster of Creative HEAD happenings because the calendar is fast filling up – and we want you with us along the way! So, what’s for the taking? First, we strongly recommend you book now for Salon Smart London (20 March) to save £15 on your ticket. This is business networking at its best, but our early bird rate expires end of the month! For details, see page 56 (and catch highlights from Salon Smart Dublin on page 62). SELF/STYLED Sunday is making a beeline for our freelance community on Sunday 29 January. Look forward to a colour masterclass from James Earnshaw and a trend forecasting panel featuring The Big Blow Out winner, Vicki Hoskin, turn to page 60. creativeheadmag.com/events

HAIR IS AN ART START WITH TOTAL CLARITY

The NEW OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment deeply cleanses hair to the cortex, creating a clean slate for optimal in-salon service results.

As professionals, we want our results in salon to be the best they possible can, whether that’s doing colour, perms, keratin or any other treatments. As with most things, so much of the success is in the preparation, so ensuring our clients’ hair is in the best possible condition to take these treatments is essential.

The OLAPLEX Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment is a powerful, high-potency professional product to remove cortex-level deposits of product buildup, oil, hard water minerals, chlorine, heavy metals, pollutants, medications, and discoloring iron and copper to create a clean slate for better results from any chemical service.

The non-stripping formula is boosted with Kakadu Plum Extract, which is rich in Vitamin C to help preserve essential proteins and moisture within the hair, so you can confidently remove the bad stuff from the hair you don’t want and retain the good stuff you do.

THE HAIR WHISPERER

Most Wanted Session Stylist 2022 Bjorn Kirscher talks about what it takes to work at the top

ON THE COVER

Hair by Nick Irwin, Alan Beak, and Sam Campagna for WAHL.

Styling by Kim Howells. Make-up by Marco Antonio. Photography by Ben Cook.

SCENE

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

LEAH HAYDEN-CASSIDY,

THE NEW LO-PROFX IS HERE.

The LO-PROFX collection features an ergonomically designed cordless clipper and trimmer. With ultra-low profile, heavy-metal housing for hard-working durability, and graphite zero-gap adjustable blades for extremely smooth cutting. The high-torque brushless motor gives consistent fast blade speed for the ultimate barbering experience.

Available now babyliss.com

A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS IN THE KNOW

FAME Team 2023 unveiled

Wonderland’s Stephanie Gallagher, Edd Moss from Headmasters Soho, Nashwhite’s James Parr, and Stacey Wright from McKoy Hair Company, are the new FAME Team of 2023. Revealed at the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s Luncheon and Hair Awards at The Londoner hotel, the FAME Team will be mentored in the year ahead by Sally Brooks of Brooks & Brooks.

Dom Capel from Lara Johnson Lifestyle scooped both Educator of the Year and Men’s Image Awards, while Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas also grabbed two titles, earning Image of the Year and Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year. Smith England was named Individual Salon of the Year, with The Chapel taking Salon Group of the Year. The Fellowship also unveiled three new projects for 2023 – Project Afro, headed up by Avlon’s Jacqui McIntosh; Project Extend with Michelle Grif n; and Project Sassoon with Damien Peers.

SLICK AND POLISH AT CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS

JACK MERRICK-THIRLWAY of Neville Hair & Beauty led a L’Oréal Professionnel Paris hair team styling more than 125 models for The White Show, Central Saint Martins’ annual tradition that challenges all fi rst-year BA Fashion Design students to construct garments using only white materials. Leading the hair for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, Jack and the team created several variations on style to suit each individual model and garment, with the key theme being slick, refi ned, and polished. Working with lots of product to create a high-shine, smooth fi nish from the neck up, only the lengths were left with body to create a contrast in texture. The hero product was quickdrying L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Tecni.ART Volume Lift Mousse, alongside Tecni.ART Fix Design for the ends. Other key styling features included space buns and sharp up-dos for designs with high necklines. This year’s show explored how we can fi nd a sixth sense in fashion, emphasising the process of play and how to achieve outcomes with sensory experimentation.

It’s January, so you’re likely looking at a healthier regime for the year ahead (see our nutrition guide on page 82 if so!). Do you know what most Brits are lacking when it comes to nutrients? It’s iodine, an essential mineral to make thyroid hormones. These hormones in turn control the body’s metabolism and are vital for health, energy, immunity, skin health and cognitive function. We have a little cheat to share: Doctor Seaweed’s Weed & Wonderful supplements. Yup, seaweed, a natural plantbased source of iodine that’s sustainable too. From £12.95, doctorseaweed.com

SIGN UP FREE TO CREATIVE HEAD

Jack Merrick-Thirlway

Jamie Stevens offers services for hard of hearing

CLIENTS WHO ARE deaf or hard of hearing are now able to opt for signed services using British Sign Language (BSL) at Jamie Stevens’ salon in Kensington, London. Senior stylist Jo Haywood is qualified in BSL, and bookings with Jo specifically can be made online or via Instagram DM in the salon’s latest efforts to expand its equality and inclusivity to clients.

“We know that the consultation stage of a haircut is a huge part of the overall service, and it must be so hard to have a consultation and feel at ease if you can’t communicate with your stylist,” said Jo. “I want deaf clients to know that they can come here and relax, and also able to take out any hearing aids and be comfortable at the basin.”

Everybody’s talking about…

SUNDAYS

SELF STYLED/ SUNDAYS

Our freelance-focused digital event series returns to a screen near you on Sunday 29 January. Offering exclusive education for freelancers, for free, SELF/STYLED Sunday is ready with a mix of business advice, brand new colour and texture service ideas, and an unmissable 2023 Trend Forecast Panel. Sign up for access now, at creativeheadmag.com/selfstyled-sundays

REVLON PROFESSIONAL SEARCHES FOR NEXT VISIONARIES

THE HUNT IS on for Revlon Professional as the brand announces the opening of its Visionaries programme for 2023. Successful applicants will enjoy a year-long mentoring experience directed by Revlon Professional global ambassador Mark Leeson. The programme covers a wide variety of skills, from conducting presentations to photoshoots and networking. Entries close on Friday 10 February, visit visionaries.site

GREEN LIGHT

SUSTAINABILITY STUDIES

Our Most Wanted Sustainability Heroes, Anne Veck and Keith Mellen, are taking part in an academic study on how SMEs can tackle climate change. Dr Katherine Sugar, a research associate at the University of Oxford and research fellow at the University of Edinburgh, spotted the winning pair through a local magazine article celebrating their MWIT victory. Keith said: “Entering awards does often require a little time, effort or cost, but the opportunities that can arise from the experience make it all worthwhile.” Want to try your luck at the Most Wanted and It List Awards 2023? The competition opens 1 March – sign up for updates at creativeheadmag.com

Jo Haywood

Jamie Stevens, Kensington

What contributes to staff turnover?

Employee wellbeing experts Loopin have highlighted the top six major factors in the workplace that could lead to a high staff turnover. Are you guilty of any of these?

• Little opportunity for growth. Do they feel stuck in their role?

• Lack of feedback opportunities – from both them and from you

• Micromanagement, limiting creativity and eroding trust

• Overworking employees leading to burnout and stress

• Lack of flexible working for a better work/life balance

• Feeling undervalued and unappreciated “High staff turnover not only affects the efficiency of a business, but also comes at a huge cost to businesses too,” said the team at Loopin. “It’s essential to understand the reasons why past employees have left to prepare for the foreseeable future and secure business success.”

CATCH-UP

The Hair & Beauty Charity’s annual Bike Ride raised a total of £7,265 from its 2022 event.

Andis’s charitable foundation has announced a new tranche of grants, having awarded $1.5 million (£1.2 million) since launching in 2015.

HAIRCARE SALES PROVE RESILIENT

Sales of prestige hair products continue to perform well, showcasing the professional sector’s resilience long after the effects of lockdowns. Sales increased by 67 per cent from January to the end of September 2022 compared with the same period in 2019, with a total of an 18 per cent increase in the market’s overall value, according to statistics by analytics rm NPD Group.

ENERGY MADE EASY

With energy prices at an all-time high and this being a traditionally quieter time of year, it’s a good time to check your tariff and make sure you are getting the best deal.

We are all fully aware that we need to make changes to save energy, both to save money and to help the environment, but a lot of advice is irrelevant in our industry where we rely heavily on power to provide our services – and at its worst the advice can be quite patronising.

The NHBF is committed to helping members and the industry to be the best and most successful that they can, campaigning at the highest levels on issues such as cost of doing business for the hair and beauty industry.

For the past 12 months the NHBF has been researching how it can help members with energy. It has led to a partnership with leading energy consultancy Direct Business Solutions. The partnership will help you manage the energy pricing crisis as simply as possible by nding the energy contract best suited to your business needs. This new service offers:

• Great prices – and deals on your utilities

• Choice – of like-for-like quotes, putting you rmly in control

• Simplicity – your dedicated account person will make this process hassle-free

Clarity

– on your energy pricing and broker

costs

Fit – match your needs with the best supplier

Switching energy is easy. It’s the same pipes, gas, meter and safety – you don’t lose supply. The only difference is price and customer service, and it can be done in a few weeks. It’s one of the simplest ways to save money on energy bills, but 1.3 million businesses may be missing out on better deals by sticking with the same provider. And as none of us know what will happen when the Energy Relief Fund ends in March, this should also provide some nancial stability and give you space to plan for future success. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk

To find out more information and how to join the NHBF, call 01234 831 965 or visit nhbf.co.uk

Tim Binnington, creator of the Manta brush, has won the Health & Beauty Entrepreneur of the Year Award at the Great British Entrepreneur Awards.

Simon Tuckwell has been unveiled as the UK creative director for Oway.

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES

Insight’s Melting Duos of shampoo and conditioner are highly concentrated, solid shampoos and conditioners designed to save water, space and reduce packaging. Mix a small scoop with water – a little goes a long way!

RRP £15 each insightprofessional.co.uk

New from Kemon is the Actyva Colore Brillante Anti-Yellow range – a shampoo and a colour booster that removes those dreaded yellow tones from blondes, keeping hues cool and protected, hydrated and shiny.

RRP £13.80 xpertprofessional.co.uk

It’s a styling double date as Neäl & Wølf teams up with DIVA Professional for a limited-edition collection of hot tools – the Atmos Atom, the Atmos Dry and the Atmos Dry+Style.

RRP from £179.99 nealandwolf.com

Pimp your kit with maximum gleam, thanks to the limited edition all-metal Wahl Cordless Senior’s sturdy aluminium housing, with a robust grip and weighted feel.

RRP £215.99 wahl.co.uk

Suede is the new six-strong colour family joining the Evolution of the color 3 range from ALFAPARF Milano Professional, with its new Senses collection introducing six looks and techniques from global creative director, Rudy Mostarda.

In-salon service xpertprofessional.co.uk

New Year, new vegan formula and new shades for iNOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. The ammonia-free permanent hair colour boasts 10 shades, powered by oil for high shine colour, a comfortable scalp and up to 48 per cent more shine. In-salon service lorealpartnershop.com/uk

COLOUR VISION

STUDY AND SAVE

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Forget the January blues – how about the January savings? The Wella Studios are once again running a January sale, offering a 20 per cent discount on all courses taking place within the month! You can check out the listings online at wella.co.uk/educationbook. Don’t worry if you miss the boat, there are still other opportunities to save. The Specialist Programmes are packages that bundle two to eight courses together, giving you a saving of 20 per cent on the individual prices, and can be booked for any time of year. No matter what you want to specialise in, there’s a programme for you. Get the Wella Education Book 2023 from your Wella Account Manager, pop into your nearest Wella Studio or download a digital copy from wella.co.uk/educationbook For more information on courses contact your nearest Wella Studio

“Clients often want the longevity of a permanent colour, but shy away from permanent colour for fear of blocky, obvious colour results. Wella Professionals Illumina Color offers the best of both worlds: up to 100 per cent grey coverage, up to three levels of lift, and its signature highshine, sheer finish that mimics the natural highs and lows in the hair. It’s definitely Wella’s most natural-looking permanent colour and is the best fit for clients who think they want semi-permanent colour with less of the upkeep.

“Illumina Color fits so well into balayage and root stretch services where coverage is needed, and pairs wonderfully with Shinefinity; you get the Illumina coverage mixed with that gorgeous high-shine finish on the ends. You can’t forget about the Opal Essence shades too; these five tones are ideal to add to your mixture when you’re looking to create the ultimate metallic finish.”

IT’S A NEW DAWN, IT’S A NEW DAY – AND A NEW YEAR TO MAKE YOUR MARK WITH THE HELP OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS! HERE’S WHAT’S ON THE CARDS FOR 2023

UNLIMITED POTENTIAL

YOUR FUTURE KNOWS NO BOUNDS WITH THE RIGHT SUPPORT. TRUST IN WELLA PROFESSIONALS’ EDUCATION OFFERINGS TO CHART A COURSE FOR YOUR MOST SUCCESSFUL YEAR YET

2023 is a blank page, full of possibility spread out ahead of you. What is your focus for the year? Improving your business know-how, or tackling gaps in your skill set? Whether you are looking to take your career to the next level, or steadily grow and develop, you need the right education to get you there. Enter Wella Professionals’ 2023 Education. With some fresh new courses joining trusted favourites, there is plenty to choose from.

THE NEW TO KNOW

HERE’S JUST A TASTE OF WHAT ELSE WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS IN STORE FOR 2023…

• Expect some fresh faces joining the Wella Artists line-up of iconic hairdressers delivering rst class education, including Nikki Clifford and Fergal Doyle

• Wella has expanded its most popular courses, allowing for more places and more opportunities to book balayage and Colour Craft courses

• There’s a new venue for the Edinburgh Studio, now hosted at Edinburgh College!

• A totally revamped set of business courses, giving modern and up-to-date guidance on growing your business in line with the current economic climate

SOCIAL STAR COLOUR

There are four brand new colour courses for 2023, but this combination course of colour and camera tips is set to be a winner. Learn how to create social colour trends and how to grow your following with the help of Insta-famous Wella Artists.

ADVANCED LEVEL, £235, one day

LIGHTS & TONE

Are you looking to dazzle clients with your blonding skills? Achieve the perfect blonde result every time with this masterclass in toning, so you can nail each trending shade. Toning will never feel like an afterthought again by the end of this course, as you learn how to utilise your whole toolkit for the most attering of nishes.

ADVANCED LEVEL, £185, one day

CURL CRAFT

If you’ve been wanting to expand your knowledge on different hair types, this is the course for you. Learn the key rules and practices in colouring and cutting curly, coily or textured hair with the help of talented Wella Artists.

EXPERT LEVEL, £280, one day, with a digital prep session

CUTTING TRILOGY

A TRIO OF COURSES FOR ALL LEVELS OF EXPERTISE THAT WILL HAVE YOU CONFIDENTLY AND COMPETENTLY CUTTING MORE PRECISE AND TECHNICAL LOOKS

CUTTING START is the rst step of this cutting trilogy, teaching you how to create one-length cuts, fringes and layers on long hair. ESSENTIAL LEVEL, £240, one day

Then move onto CUTTING PROGRESS for different graduation and short hair techniques. ADVANCED LEVEL, £380, two days

Finally, step up to ADVANCED CUTTING which teaches bespoke precision cutting skills to stylists who have more than ve-years’ experience. EXPERT LEVEL, £320, one day

IOT ADVANCED HAIR & SCALP

If you’ve been looking to add another string to your bow, this could be the course for you. The Institute of Trichology presents an advanced course in hair and scalp health science, including how to diagnose and treat client scalp issues with NIOXIN.

ADVANCED LEVEL, £275, three days

THE PRICE IS RIGHT

There are a whopping seven new business courses to choose from for 2023. All the referrals and team spirit can’t help you if your numbers don’t add up. Simon Harris presents a day focused on the numbers; how to price your services, retail, manage your spend and ensure success in your salon’s pro t margins.

ADVANCED LEVEL, £160, one day

THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS EDUCATION BOOK IS AVAILABLE IN JANUARY 2023! ASK YOUR WELLA ACCOUNT MANAGER FOR A COPY, SCAN THE QR CODE, OR DOWNLOAD FROM WELLA.COM/EDUCATIONBOOK

THE PLACES

NEW SPACES, FRESH LOOKS AND LOCATIONS TO HELP YOU WORK BETTER

BULLER & RICE, WANSTEAD @BULLERANDRICE

The third salon from design-led sustainable salon owners Stephen Buller and Anita Rice, this east London outpost has reworked an old Chinese restaurant to create a retail concept store that showcases the best nature has to offer. Walls are surfaced with husks of spelt from Organoid, and Danish designer Jonas Edvard has created bespoke lamps made of seaweed and recycled paper. Innovation is key to the concept of this open and inviting harvest yellow and terracotta accented space, say Stephen and Anita. “My favourite part of the new space is the incorporated lifestyle store, which has ethically-minded homeware, skincare, and haircare and organic wines. It allows the clients to do some fun shopping when they visit the salon,” adds Stephen. Independent and local artists have got in on the action at the salon too, contributing greeting cards, trays and a select book offering. Alongside all this you’ll nd organic hair products from Oway, with re ll options for all.

RUSH HAIR, BRIGHTON

@OFFICIALRUSHHAIRBEAUTY

Welcome to the candy shop – RUSH is embracing some serious sweetie vibes with this plush pink-infused interior at its Sussex seaside salon.

CRAB SALAD, HIGHBURY

@CRABSALAD.SALON

This second outpost of the sustainable colour-savvy salon heads up to north London, and is a vision of green hues and curved mirrors serving industrial chic.

TAKE A MOMENT

FIND TIME FOR YOUR MIND AND BODY

MY WELLBEING AND daily practices are constantly evolving, as life should. At the beginning of the year I sit back and reflect on where I am, what currently aligns with my goals and what does not. Self-awareness is the biggest thing I can recommend for your own wellbeing. As with everything knowledge is power, so the more you understand yourself the better. The way I’ve done this is through a lot of coaching and retreats. Our Hairdotcom Art Team wellbeing expert Vanessa Tucker runs some brilliant retreats and in-salon bespoke courses to help you understand yourself better.

I am constantly on the go, jumping from tubes to trains and planes, so I don’t have a daily routine in the normal sense, which could mean wellbeing practices are hard. But going from place to place is a practice in itself. Always having something new to occupy my mind, new cultures and people to meet, means fewer invasive thoughts from that pesky inner critic. It also means that while I’m on a plane or train I can give myself space to daydream –which is key for creativity.

I take a travel yoga mat and my running trainers with me everywhere I go. Keeping my body healthy helps keep my mind healthy. As a colourist I can spend long hours bent over hair so I make sure I stretch every morning and every evening; it might be a full 45-minute Vinyasa yoga session, or just three sun salutations. Last year I ran the London Marathon (I know, I still don’t believe it either!) but one thing I realised I loved (it was not the running) was

everywhere I travelled I was able to see so much more because I was up early for a run. I make sure I do a few outside runs in whichever country I am in so I can see beautiful views I previously would have slept through. Snacks. Yes, you read that correctly, but I do mean healthy snacks. As the ’00s TV show claimed: “you are what you eat.” Your mind and your gut are intrinsically linked, so making sure you’re getting the right sustenance is of the highest importance. When you’re busy dashing about the salon between clients, or rushing about backstage prepping, it can be hard to keep yourself correctly fuelled. I always have a bag of snacks that come everywhere with me, to make sure I have a healthy pick-me-up. When I’m working on a project it encompasses my whole life, and when it’s finished I need some days in bed to recharge before the next one. I now actively book this into my calendar so I can have a few days recharging after each project before I jump into the salon to do clients, or move on to the next project. Make sure you know how you recharge and actively put it into your calendar. When I’m travelling around I use a lot of apps to keep me sane. The main ones are Kindle for iPhone, I always have to have a book on the go and having it on my phone means one less thing to carry; Calm, I’m a big fan of Matthew McConaughey’s bedtime story; Pinterest and Notes, so I can keep inspiration saved; and Forest, which is a focus app that grows a tree (and plants one for every use) as it switches off your notifications for a set period of time.

Ashleigh Hodges, co-founder of Hairdotcom, explains the importance of looking after yourself, even if you’re always on the go

BUSINESS ESSENTIALS

HOW TO REDUCE YOUR SALON COSTS

Every penny you save becomes profit when you run a salon or barber shop, and that’s especially important during your first few years when you need to show growth.

Which expenses spring to mind first? Probably salaries, renting and business rates. It’s likely the cost of tea bags doesn’t feature highly. However, small business owners often underestimate the financial impact of the little things.

Financial issues and the increase in underlying costs such as energy can make it hard for salons to make ends meet, let alone consider growth.

Here, AXA Business Insurance suggests seven surprising costs you can cut.

INVEST IN ENERGY-EFFICIENT EQUIPMENT

Salons guzzle energy, so consider some alternatives. Swapping your regular light bulbs for their energy-efficient counterparts can make a significant difference to your bill, especially during the darker months. LED bulbs can last up to 30 years, so they’re a great investment.

CALL TIME ON BIG PHONE BILLS

Failing to shop around for the most competitive tariff can leave small business owners with a nasty surprise. One way to keep bills down is to make use of services such as Skype, which allow you to make calls over the internet and offer business packages, enabling you to monitor and manage monthly spend.

COMPARE PROVIDERS REGULARLY

Sit down once a year (or every quarter, if you have time) to compare energy providers. Most suppliers launch new deals every six months. Switching might not help much while the energy crisis is ongoing, but it’s always worth checking.

REFRESH YOUR REFRESHMENTS

The tea and coffee supply may seem like a minor consideration, but it’s easy to waste money if you don’t buy in bulk and shop around for the best deal.

CLAIM YOUR ALLOWABLE EXPENSES

From stationery and phone bills to insurance and staff costs, many small business expenses are tax deductible. Make sure you know what expenses you can claim so that you don’t pay any more tax than you need to. If there’s an allowable expense you’ve been missing out on, claiming it in the future may enable you to save more money for your business.

KEEP AN EYE ON USAGE

Charging gadgets, making countless cups of tea for clients or having the heat on during cold afternoons – electricity bills can quickly add up. A smart meter can help you track how much you’re using throughout the working day, and many suppliers offer them for free. Once you know which appliances are using the most energy, you can either swap them for more energy-efficient models or cut down usage.

TAKE SMALL STEPS IF BIG ONES ARE OUT OF REACH

If you try to do everything at once, it’ll feel like an impossible task. So, take on some small changes first and gradually add on more until your business is as costefficient as possible. To start, consider an audit to identify where money is being wasted. You might be surprised how soon the savings can stack up.

AXA Insurance UK plc is authorised by the Prudential Regulation Authority and regulated by the Prudential Regulation Authority and Financial Conduct Authority

THE FACES THE FACES

THE PEOPLE IN ACTION

What Would

Colin McAndrew

Do?

The managing director of Medusa Hairdressing in Scotland reveals how he copes with Impostor Syndrome

IS IT POSSIBLE to have Impostor Syndrome about writing a feature on Impostor Syndrome?

Yes. Welcome. Impostor Syndrome can, and probably does, impact everyone in our industry. Nobody is untouchable. We all have moments of self-doubt, gaps in our knowledge, imperfect routines, bad habits and insecurities. It’s time that as an industry we are willing to be vulnerable enough to say these things out loud.

I’m Colin McAndrew and I’m not invincible. I’m flawed. And yes, I experience Impostor Syndrome. But, and this is a big but, it doesn’t define me. And it doesn’t stop me striving to be better. I’m also a salon owner, hairdresser, ambassador, award winner, husband, brother and son. I’m human. We are not meant to be perfect. In fact, the more comfortable I become with my flaws the more I see the beauty in imperfection. As my team and business grow it can feel even harder to show those insecurities. Leaders are meant to be strong, confident, in control, right? Perhaps in the past these have been typical characteristics but today, in our industry, we have to be real and honest. To connect and inspire. Not to pretend that success makes you untouchable. In my experience, external success can add to the inner critic.

So what do I do about Impostor Syndrome? I own it. I face it head on. Being honest and real builds better connections. I manage damaging habits. I cycle. I limit my alcohol intake. I share my failures and embrace my wins. I talk about it. The more I acknowledge it, the quieter it becomes. Together we can silence our inner critics.

@medusahairdressing

WHAT MADE ME DANIELLE

GARNER

Wild ower, Dublin

@wild ower.dublin

I wouldn’t be where I am today if I hadn’t listened to my intuition. My business wouldn’t be operating at 98 per cent capacity if I hadn’t allowed it to guide me. The rst time I really listened was in 2017, when I took the decision to leave a great job in a salon. I knew something wasn’t aligned with me, I needed to be free. From here, every decision I’ve

here, every decision I’ve

made comes from listening to my intuition. Three months later I opened my business with 564 clients and quickly learnt I needed a team in order to grow, but I had never interviewed before. By following my intuition I knew the people I made a connection with would be right for the business. Allowing my intuition to guide me continues to be my strategy. Recently, a large manufacturer offered a life-changing amount of money to become an ambassador. I knew the products weren’t genuinely as ethical as it was claimed, but the money would give my family security. As much as I tried to balance it in my head, my intuition was telling me to turn it down. So I did. I know something better aligned with my values will come my way. My intuition has never let me down.

STROKE OF GENIUS

The essence of the Edward James brand is the delivery of incredible results and an unforgettable experience for each and every client. And that’s why Edward James, owner of three salons in south-west London, decided to partner with Aveda – a shared commitment to ingredients, sensorial experiences and results.

What three words would you use to describe your brand?

Edward James: Personalised. Caring. Premium.

Why did you choose Aveda as your partner of choice?

EJ: The Aveda brand ethos parallels ours: quality haircare that delivers results primarily, but also is environmentally and socially responsible and cares for hair using naturally derived ingredients. It gives you the ability to personalise every single client’s hair colour, every time. Colour performance and delivery is not something we compromise on, and neither does Aveda Full Spectrum Colour.

What makes Aveda colour so special?

EJ: We can deliver bespoke colour for every client. The colour results are less dense and have more depth too, which clients love. What’s more Aveda colour gives your clients full grey coverage. The new colour formulations leave hair looking incredibly shiny, to the point that we’ve had new clients through simply because they loved the healthy, shiny appearance of other clients’ hair.

What is the biggest learning curve you’ve had to navigate?

EJ: Consistency is vital. We’ve worked hard to create a culture of sharing knowledge, and delivering a consistent guest experience.

FULL SPECTRUM

This Veganuary, are you thinking enough about what’s inside your products? Aveda’s Full Spectrum Permanent Vegan Treatment Hair Colour features 96 per cent naturally derived ingredients, along with a new exclusive alkaliser technology. This tech allows for enhanced colour penetration, processing 100 per cent grey coverage in just 30 minutes! Everything is covered – an expanded palette of customisable colour, a new aroma, and a 100 per cent recycled aluminium tube.

Edward James

24/7

A DAY OF WORK/ LIFE BALANCE FOR MAXWELL OAKLEY, CO-FOUNDER OF SUPPLY 91 @SUPPLY.91

I GET UP AT… 6.15AM most mornings. I make a protein shake, some porridge, I stretch out and then head to the gym. It’s the perfect place to clear my head and get in the right mindset for the rest of the day.

MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF… I generally wear variations of the same out t: trousers, T-shirt, overshirt. I swear by my Redwing boots, they’re sturdy and comfortable for a day on my feet.

MY JOB ENTAILS… At the moment it’s a bit crazy; I work six days a week across our agship Islington shop, and our residency at 180 The Strand’s Health Club. We’re very client-focused at Supply 91, and conversation always comes rst, so there’s a lot of chatting. Mostly my days consist of back-to-back appointments, but my business partner Luke Davies and I always take a few mornings a week for staff training and thinking up new ideas.

I GOT HERE BY… Consistently striving to develop and always learning.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… The Dyson Professional Supersonic Hair Dryer. It’s lightweight, super-powerful and most importantly it’s really quiet.

MY DAILY FUEL IS… Huel. It’s the quickest and easiest way to get nutrients in between clients and meetings.

I’M ALWAYS PLANNING… Content. Boosting social engagement is a priority and it’s something I’m always thinking about.

Instagram

I get a lot of inspiration from this; from looking at the work of other barbers to interior design ideas.

WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Take time to go for a walk, or spend some time with my girlfriend. It’s the simple things that really help.

WHEN I GET STUCK I… Lean on my business partner Luke. The beauty of having a partner is you share the highs and the lows.

THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Talking too much with clients; I’m often in danger of over-running when the conversation

I LOOK UP TO… My team. Seeing their passion and skill motivates me.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… “You’re better off with the stability of working for someone, rather than the risks and stress of running your own business”.

MY INBOX LOOKS

LIKE… It’s pretty wild since we were named one of the best barbers in London by GQ magazine!

I DECOMPRESS BY… Utilising our space at 180 Health Club. There are loads of mindfulness classes, yoga, and even fencing sessions to choose from.

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Food. I would de nitely classify myself as a big foodie, and I’m always looking for the next best meal.

AFTER WORK… Enjoying a cold beer with my team.

Adobe Lightroom

This is, in my opinion, the best app on the market for quickly editing photos to a high standard.

Calm

I use the Calm app pretty much every night; the stories put me straight to sleep.

BOUNDLESS CREATIVITY

IT’S HERE! ÜBERLISS HAS LANDED IN THE UK AND HAS GOT EVERYONE TALKING. FROM A BEST-SELLING BONDING TREATMENT TO A COLOURFUL CREATIVE SIDE, THIS IS A BRAND THAT’S SET TO MAKE WAVES

SIMPLE STEPS TO SUCCESS

DISCOVER HOW ÜBERLISS IS BREAKING THE MOULD WITH ITS PATENTED TECHNOLOGY AND THREESTEP BOND SYSTEM

BOND-BUILDING

TREATMENTS are the best insurance policy for your clients’ hair. From colour to intense heat styling, there are many ways hair can become damaged and fragile, but the right bond building treatment system can actually help leave hair looking better than before they set foot in the salon.

Enter Überliss! Arriving on UK shores for 2023, it’s already made huge waves in the US and South America, winning thousands of fans with its uncomplicated and hugely effective treatments.

The Überliss Bond Treatment is a three-step process to help your clients to retain signi cant hair elasticity and condition, even when paired with intense colour work. Better yet, there’s no need to change developer, and there’s no change to the processing time. Discover the magic of the three-step Überliss Bond Treatment...

STEP ONE: BOND REGENERATOR

Überliss Bond Regenerator contains the highest concentration of Überliss’ patented* Sub-Micron Crosslinking Technology, which actively seeks out broken bonds to repair. Designed to regenerate bonds in damaged hair bres during lightening and colour services, it leaves hair in even better condition than before processing.

STEP THREE: BOND AMPLIFIER

Überliss Bond Ampli er is then used to reinforce the newly formed bonds after lightener or colour is rinsed out, helping to reduce hair porosity and eliminate damage from combing. This creambased conditioner contains the same active compound found in the Bond Regenerator, layering that protection.

WHAT MAKES ÜBERLISS SO

STEP TWO: BOND SHAMPOO

The sulphate-free Überliss Bond Shampoo preps the hair to help lock in the results of the Bond Regenerator. Where other sulphatefree shampoos may erase any colour protection bene ts, this is calibrated to leave hair vibrant and strong.

SPECIAL?

The active ingredient in the Überliss Bonding System is the Sub-Micron Crosslinking Technology – a patented, acid-free, liquid emulsion that doesn’t neutralise alkaline powder lighteners or colour ingredients, and instead quickly creates crosslinks to generate new bonds in damaged hair bres during the colouring and lightening process, and even adds a layer of insurance to help prevent future breakage.

This unique technology uses particles that are so incredibly small that they can easily penetrate the hair bre to actively repair them, adding unprecedented strength to lengths both during and after colour services. The nano-lipids – much smaller, more intense particles than most brands use – also add incredible moisture and smoothing properties to treated hair. It supercharges lighteners already containing ‘plex’ technology, increasing hair bre elasticity by 22 per cent, and by up to 30 per cent when added to permanent colour.

Not all hair and scalps present at the expected pH of 5 to 5.8, often due to lifestyle, health, or previous treatments. But the Überliss Bonding Treatment has a magical ability to bring both the hair and scalp back to the normal pH level, to help to improve the hair’s condition. From initial colour services to daily hair fatigue caused by combing, brushing and styling, the Überliss Bond System offers supreme protection and care.

TAKE IT UP A NOTCH

NOW THAT YOU’VE HAD A TASTE OF ÜBERLISS’ INCREDIBLE TECH, IT’S TIME TO TAKE THINGS TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH CREATIVE COLOUR AND FRESH RETAIL

The beauty of Überliss is how seamlessly the services and products link together. This is a brand that’s thought about the needs of hairdressers and created a streamlined system to cater for any and every need.

KEEP IT GOING

CONTINUE CARE AT HOME WITH THE ÜBERLISS BOND SUSTAINER  THE PERFECT TAKEHOME PRODUCT FOR YOUR CLIENTS

Offer a unique take-home opportunity for clients with the Überliss Bond Sustainer. It’s formulated with the patented Bond Regenerator technology, alongside moisturising coconut oil and aloe.

It’s a formula unlike anything you’ve seen before – a brous conditioner that looks almost like spider silk as you spread the product between your hands. It’s intensely moisturising, strengthening and helps to maintain clients’ hair bres between visits – giving them a reminder of that incredible Überliss nish between services.

COLOUR LIKE NO OTHER

DISCOVER BOND SUSTAINER COLOURS, MIXING SEMI PERMANENT COLOUR WITH CARE IN ONE FELL SWOOP

These three-in-one supercharged solutions are unlike any other colour product on the market. They combine direct dyes, conditioners AND the bond-building technology from the Bond Treatment system. This is a complete colour option in one handy bottle. As a semi-permanent colour option, colourists and clients just need to apply direct from the bottle before rinsing out – no developer required! They’re perfect for topping up salon colour at home as a brilliant retail offering, or as a gentle introduction to colour for salon clients who want to try something new. Choose from Pink Rose, Purple Iris, Platinum Jasmin, Lilac, or Red Flame, with more colours arriving soon!

PEACHY PERFECTION BY CLAIRE CHELL

Apply to clean, dry hair by sectioning into ve triangular sections:

One top section – centre top to recession area on both sides.

Two side sections – centre top to behind the ear on both sides.

Two back sections – centre top to nape.

• Starting with the back sections, split the hair into four equal sections diagonally. Apply Peach Hydrangea onto the bottom two sections at the back, root to tip. Then apply Utopia Yellow on the two back sections above the Peach sections.

• Moving onto the side sections, split in half vertically to create two sections on each side. On the sections closest to the face apply Pink Rose, root to tip, followed by Utopia Yellow on the remaining side sections.

• Apply Peach Hydrangea root to tip on the entire top section.

• Leave the colour on for 30 minutes, then rinse and style.

MAKE IT HAPPEN

WITH THE RIGHT TOOLS IN YOUR HANDS YOU CAN ACHIEVE ANYTHING YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS DREAM OF! TAP INTO BESPOKE SUPPORT FROM ÜBERLISS

If you’re looking for a brand that supports your team’s creativity and your clients’ needs then Überliss is for you. Ef ciency and ef cacy are key here, with the products working swiftly to help support your colour work and client care. There’s no downtime, no faff, just unbridled creativity and chemistry at its core. The Überliss education team is on-hand to help you achieve a higher standard of haircare with different education packages to suit you and your team.

“By bringing a level of continuous conditioning that is second to none and maintaining the integrity of the hair throughout chemical services, Überliss gives salons a level of con dence that exceeds client expectations by pushing the benchmark of the bonding experience.”

JACQUI MCINTOSH, ÜBERLISS EUROPEAN EDUCATION DIRECTOR

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

ÜBERLISS OFFERS A COMPLETE EDUCATION PROGRAMME

ÜBERLISS COMPLETE  THE WORKS

This training covers the full utilisation of Überliss within your chemical services, including lightening, colouring, toning, and keratin treatments.

BONDING ON THE MOVE

Marry conditioning with styling for high-impact nishes. Learn to protect hair as you cut and style with Überliss Express to signi cantly improve your styling outcome.

ÜBERLISS RECOVERY

Learn how to turn compromised hair into lengths ready for future technical services, with improvement visible from the rst application.

ÜBERLISS MAINTENANCE

Maintaining the template level of hair quality is paramount for success. This is all about teaching you how to produce a service for clients committed to chemical change, to ensure that your client’s hair is always ready no matter what they’re planning.

ÜBERLISS COLOUR SUSTAINED

Learn all about the game changing Überliss Bond Sustainer, your secret sales weapon. It’s not only ideal for maintaining colour, but also the hair’s condition to ensure that clients continue that salon care at home.

price.

Überliss

GRAHAM OAKES, ÜBERLISS GENERAL MANAGER

RETAIL MADE

EASY

ÜBERLISS HAS AN ARRAY OF STYLING TOOLS AND RETAIL PRODUCTS TO HELP SUPPORT THAT CORE CARE FOR CLIENTS

The patented nano technology that makes Überliss such a gamechanger is also built into its star styling product: the incredible Bond Healing Spray.

This revolutionary leave-in spray offers all the bene ts of a bond builder on the go. The treatment features a powerhouse of healthy hair ingredients, including the patented Bond Regenerator, betaine, smoothing ceramides, and vitamin E. This powerful cocktail allows the Bond Healing Spray to instantly strengthen, moisturise, and hydrate all hair types, but works especially well on frizzy and dry hair.

Strong, healthy hair is just a spray away! The Bond Healing Spray also offers heat protection, detangles hair, and assists with easier combing, all while helping to reinforce those all-important bonds within the hair.

“The Überliss Bond Healing Spray has the ease of a sprayable leave-in, but with all of the bene ts of our bond-building technology,” says Dr Ali N Syed, head chemist for Überliss. “Nothing like it exists in the market.”

“The Überliss philosophy centres on the science and chemistry of hair to produce high-performance products at a fair

The

Bond system is an ideal revenue booster as it is so exible. It’s a win-win – save money and make even more!”

creativeheadmag.com

Go behind the lens of Drag Race UK series four, as hairstylist Nathan Phoenix and drag artist Le Fil reflect on the fierce and fabulous wig looks that appeared on Ru Paul’s runway

SELF STYLED/SUNDAYS

As part of a new series, Karrie Fitzmaurice of Kit Studios will look at why being real right now is hot on social. Find your voice and become more aligned to your content

SELF/STYLED Sunday returns on 29 January. We’re bringing fresh education, inspiration, and business support for freelancers, for free. Sign up now!

From red-carpet glamour to high-fashion fun, look through the archives of 2022 Most Wanted Session Stylist Bjorn Krischker, as he reflects on his life in hair creativeheadmagofficial

REVOLUTIONS

IF THERE’S EVER BEEN A TIME TO ENSURE YOU’RE UP-TO-SCRATCH WITH YOUR SKILLS, IT’S NOW. PLUG ANY GAPS –CREATIVE OR BUSINESS – AND OPEN A WORLD OF NEW SERVICES AND POTENTIAL REVENUE STREAMS

TOTAL TEXTURE SEASON

2 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL Products Division has created an online series to help widen access to textured hair education with Total Texture. The recent drop of its second series is now available via L’Oréal Access for free, and zeroes in on the specific needs of 4A to 4C coily locks. “Don’t be afraid to say you don’t know, and be open and humble to learn new techniques,” says Claire Martin-Kennedy, one of the six talents featured. lorealaccess.com

Pictured, clockwise from above: Claire Martin-Kennedy, Abigail Butler, Charlotte Mensah, Subrina Kidd, Nicole Iroh, Lisa Farrall

WIG WITH DARREL STARKEY

DARREL STARKEY is launching his first wig-focused education course in January. The live, one-day workshop will see Darrel welcome a limited number of students to his Taylor’s salon and take them through the entire process of working with wigs.

At the end of the day, every individual will have made a wig to take home with them. “It’s a service that can open you up to so many different markets and clients, while giving you a unique selling point,” Darrel says. info@hairstudioskegness.co.uk

MATRIX COLOUR MASTERY

MATRIX HAS relaunched its Colour Mastery course – its highest level of colour qualification – for passionate and dedicated colourists to take their skills to another level. The prestigious colour course has been remastered for a new generation, with a combination of virtual and in-person learning. It involves three online days of education, followed by six face-to-face training days. lorealaccess.com

A BUSINESS SUITE BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS

WELLA PROFESSIONALS has introduced a brand-new slate of business courses for the coming year, refreshed for current and future needs.

From Squad Goals, the ultimate guide to a motivated and committed team; to Influence Your Colour Business, which teaches you how to master time management strategy, pricing and more to run a stellar colour column; there’s something for everyone. education.wella.com

ALL ABOUT… COLOURING AFRO HAIR

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL has tapped ambassador Randolph Gray to lead a oneday course designed to inspire confidence and empower colourists with the skills and know-how required to colour Afro hair. From classic to contemporary looks as well as product selection, the seminar consists of demonstrations and the chance to get hands-on. You’ll walk away with the confidence to achieve trending and timeless colour for both existing and potential clients. schwarzkopfpro.com

MOST WANTED EDUCATION EXPERT LEE STAFFORD SHARES HIS TOP THREE TIPS TO GET THE MOST OUT OF TRAINING

1 Don’t ever turn up not knowing who your educator is going to be. Carefully research the person you want to learn from and book them specifically.

2 Even though it can be daunting sometimes, go for a front row seat. And if you still can’t see, stand up and stand right next to the educator for a bird’s eye view.

3 You’re investing time and money to be there so get the most out of it by asking question after question. Educators love this as it makes their job easier and the whole experience more entertaining and impactful for everybody.

as easier

REVOLUTIONS

SWAP SHOP

SKILL SWAPS MIGHT be the perfect solution to fill in any gaps in your knowledge. It worked for Frazer Wallace, owner of The Haus Studio and international educator for L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. After a couple of years of mentioning a skill swap with his own barber, Ryan Kinfolk, they finally nailed down a date and both came away with new skills.

“I wanted to learn how a barber looked at hair, how they used their tools – and to skin fade,” Frazer explains. “I taught Ryan how to create shape using his scissors and comb, perfect for the current trends of men with longer hair.”

Jo Dyer, owner of Yoke The Salon in Plymouth, also started up some skills swaps with other local salons and barbers they’d befriended after the Covid lockdowns. “Most of the other salons are self-employed and don’t do stuff like this, so our staff get a real buzz out of it,” she says. “The beauty of these more informal get-togethers is that everyone can get involved. We enjoy sharing ideas and just love the social side of it.”

BLUE TIT LONDON

BLUE TIT LONDON has been working hard over the past year, committing to upskilling its staff to cater to all hair types, and is rolling out new Afro and textured hair services across all 10 of its salons situated across London.

The team has worked closely with Blue Tit’s Afro and textured hair specialist Pashcan’el Mitchell, with the support of textured hair experts Avlon to bring the coaching to life.

“This is the start for Blue Tit to be more inclusive and represent the communities our salons are based in,” enthuses Blue Tit director Matt Gebbie. “We hope to diversify our clients and teams, who will make Blue Tit a more welcoming and vibrant place to be.”

Blue Tit London

Frazer Wallace

Frazer Wallace

Work smarter, NOT HARDER

TIME IS OF THE ESSENCE AND BUDGETS ARE TIGHT – WHAT CAN YOU DO TO MAXIMISE THE TIME YOU HAVE TO CREATE THE MOST STREAMLINED, SMOOTH-RUNNING DAY YOU CAN?

“We have moved our phone system supplier and have also managed to get better rates on our card transactions – there are some very competitive rates at the moment, so I would strongly suggest seeing if you can get a better deal.”

VALERIE MAINE, LIVE TRUE LONDON

SO MUCH NEW technology is geared towards making life easier, and it’s also helping to make life greener, too. In response to the high costs that businesses are facing, NatWest has created a free-to-use digital Carbon Planner tool designed to help UK businesses lower energy bills as they cut their carbon footprint. It’s available to all and provides information such as the potential savings of adopting sustainability measures, and the time it will take to earn a return on investments in environmentally-friendly changes.

LET THEM COME TO YOU

WHILE MANY software brands help you to keep on top of all your data, some also help you to cast a wider net for potential clients. The Fresha marketplace allows new and returning customers to find you and book into your empty slots with just a few clicks. Easy peasy! “The Fresha Marketplace is loved by salons and clients alike,” says Leith Matthews, Fresha’s head of PR, partnerships and events. “Salons on it attract new clients and drive greater revenues. Our seamless ‘confirm with card’ feature also means that no-shows are a thing of the past.”

all hair types, from straight to waves and curls to coils. It was designed to deliver solid, foundational skills needed to identify, care for, cut, style and colour all hair textures, but that was just the beginning. Total Texture Season 2 is designed to take those core skills further by building knowledge and confidence –specifically in coily hair types 4A to 4C.

CHARLOTTE MENSAH

ABIGAIL BUTLER

CLAIRE MARTIN-KENNEDY

LISA FARRALL

SUBRINA KIDD

NICOLE IROH

*Research carried out by Veloxx Insights, April 2021 on 402 UK&I hairdressers

No head of hair is ever the same, and every client expects – and deserves – your full ability. As a hairdresser it is so important to be able to welcome and work with all hair textures and never have to turn away a client.

Hair types 4A to 4C have been identi ed as one of the areas where stylists have the least con dence,* so why not take this next step to build knowledge, grow your skill set and welcome

new clients with this series of Total Texture. Available in three different formats including audio, video and hands-on in the L’Oréal Academy.

If you’re new to working with coily hair types 4A to 4C or you’re looking to hone your existing techniques, this addition to the Total Texture series is the next natural step on your journey to building your con dence and ability to cater to all clients.

WATCH AND LEARN

THIS TRIO OF VIDEOS, AVAILABLE VIA L’ORÉAL ACCESS, WILL SHOW YOU SOME OF THE KEY SKILLS YOU’LL NEED TO HONE WHEN WORKING WITH COILY HAIR

KNOWING YOUR TOOLS

Abigail Butler from Strictly Xtended takes you through the essential tools you’ll need in your kit when working with your coily hair clients.

EMBRACING THE NATURAL

Build your con dence with Claire Martin-Kennedy from GRO London as she shares her top tips and go-to techniques when ‘embracing the natural’, including the LOC method and the Wash & Go.

THE IMPORTANCE OF CONSULTATION

Join Abigail and Claire as they discuss the importance of conducting a consultation and the questions you should be asking your clients.

LISTEN IN

THESE AUDIO LEARNING SESSIONS WILL HELP TO DEVELOP AND BROADEN YOUR UNDERSTANDING OF COILY HAIR TYPES

BUILDING BUSINESS WITH TEXTURE: CHARLOTTE’S STORY

Listen to Charlotte Mensah from The Hair Lounge share her incredible journey to becoming a successful woman in business.

GROWING YOUR SKILLS WITH TEXTURE

Film and TV hairstylist Nicole Iroh explains how she has got to where she is today, recognising the need to have a wider skill set early in her career.

THE TRANSITION: LET’S TALK ABOUT THE CHOP

Build con dence in your conversations with clients and how to style a nished look with industry pro Subrina Kidd from Subrina Kidd Hair and her client, Lisa.

TEXTURE EQUALITY

Lisa Farrall – top stylist, campaigner and Most Wanted Texture Expert 2022 –discusses texture equality and how we can continue to diversify salon services.

ANSWER THE CALL

Total Texture has been designed to be as accessible as possible, for stylists across the UK and Ireland.

Start with the foundational skills provided in Season 1: The Science & Identi cation of All Hair Types. Then move on to Total Texture Season 2: Coily Hair Types 4A to 4C.

The series is suitable for all hairdressers who wish to expand their skills and knowledge with texture.

If you’re looking to diversify your salon services, open the door to more career opportunities and grow your client base, then what are you waiting for? It’s time to get started!

VISIT L’ORÉAL ACCESS TO DELVE INTO TOTAL TEXTURE SEASON 1 AND SEASON 2. SCAN THE QR CODE TO GET STARTED NOW

REVOLUTIONS

ADD A ‘BOOK NOW’ BUTTON

IN THE SAME WAY a smart watch helps you keep on top of your notifications, your steps, your time, there are new tech advances to keep you on top of your business. Let’s start with getting clients into the salon. “We meet so many owners who are drowning under DMs, spending their evenings on the sofa replying to everyone,” says Rob Smith, co-founder of Slick salon software.

Clients want to be able to book when it suits them, often outside of work hours – but this shouldn’t mean that you need to be available 24/7. “Every industry, from restaurants to hotels, use online booking to give clients the experience they want AND ensure the staff don’t burn out. Our ‘Book Now’ button, which you can add to your Instagram page, does the same thing,” Rob explains.

EXCITE THEM

IN-SALON TREATMENTS and services are an amazing way to boost the bill, and new to the UK is Überliss, a bond treatment system with brilliant backwash options that also includes a line up of Bond Sustainer colour treatments for salon and home use. The formula is revolutionary; the fibrous conditioner looks almost like spider silk when you spread it between your hands! And it makes for an exciting conversation starter with clients too…

THE FUTURE

HAIRDRESSING HOLD?

MAKE PAYING EASY

NAILING THE BEGINNING of the client journey and the completion at the till are two of the best areas to focus your energies. Smoother processes really help you to focus on the client experience and service. Phorest’s new PhorestPay Card Terminal is ideal; it seamlessly integrates in-salon payments together with the rest of the Phorest platform features. It’s accurate and its time-saving efficiency helps to eliminate human error and make the payment experience a breeze. “I am super-impressed at how it has made our end-of-day procedures so much easier!” says Pamela Curran of Renaissance Hair & Beauty Bar in Meath, Ireland. “All our payments are synced, and having a fully integrated system means there are no errors; everything is so straightforward.”

PAUL PHILLIPS, CHOPP HAIR

“We had a new app developed and ditched our previous provider. I was able to reduce our monthly costs by £375 a month without affecting any of our USPs, and actually improve on our customer experience with a beautiful, fully branded app.”

WHAT DOES

OF

HEAR WHAT OUR COTERIE AUDIENCE HAD TO SAY, HEAD TO @CREATIVEHEADMAGINSTAGRAM

RETHINK RETAIL

IF YOU’RE looking to supercharge your retail opportunities then take a peek at Hairstory. Its affiliate scheme means that you earn commission every time your clients purchase through the Hairstory website, meaning you don’t need to order in tonnes of stock yourself. Simply share a custom link with clients to cash in!

CALCULATE YOUR PRICES PROPERLY

IT ALL STARTED with a survey. Maddi Cook, owner of Boss Your Salon, asked her audience how they priced, and 80 per cent said by copying others, or pulling something out of thin air. “Seeing that figure made me realise that pricing in our industry is a huge challenge,” she says.

And so the Pricing Calculator was born. “It takes your current situation, long term goals and preferred way of working, and calculates the exact price you need to charge for every single service you do,” she explains. “You can even use it to plan your future pricing, for example if you’re aiming to drop hours, build a cabin, or invest in some training.”

Her online course modules guide you through aspects such as money mindset, how to know what you need to earn, and how to implement your new price structure. “We then have an online support group with more than 2,500 other users, so you should always feel supported to get your perfect pricing!”

Warrington-based hair and make-up artist Amy Asquith worked with Maddi to revamp her pricing and has been amazed by the results. “Prior to working with Maddi my pricing was derived through a combination of looking at other salons and considering location and my own experience level. But without a framework, we’re all just taking a stab in the dark.”

Amy adds that the calculator takes into account that its users are hairdressers, not accountants. Its simplicity makes it invaluable. She says: “By creating pricing based on the day-to-day expenses of running a salon, it instils confidence. Correct pricing creates stability essential to ensuring the longevity of your business.”

“We invested in Vish to measure our colour and track the waste, so that when we see our client next time we know the exact amount they need. I have also changed my accounting software, saving me 20 per cent per month, and I’m currently looking into saving by changing gas and electric suppliers to get the best deals.”

CALLY BORG, CALLY HAIR SALON

GET BLENDED

THE INDUSTRY LANDSCAPE is changing as the worlds of stylist and barber blend together, evolving the way we create. Check out snackable moments of creativity from WAHL’s new Blended collection featuring consultant hair artist Nick Irwin, working alongside WAHL ambassadors Alan Beak and Sam Campagna, at wahl.co.uk.

Maddi Cook

REVOLUTIONS

HELLEN WARD, RICHARD WARD HAIR & METROSPA

“NONE OF our trainee staff live in Chelsea, so they have to commute. Some of them are commuting from as far away as Brentwood in Essex – that’s about 70 minutes on the train – it’s long and expensive. I thought: ‘these train fares are killing these youngsters. What can I do to help?’.

“At the end of the quarter, if they haven’t missed work, they get a percentage back on their train costs. It’s just such a small thing. We can write out a cheque in the end for about £2,000 or £3,000 and it stops trainees calling in sick, also their parents really like it. One of my students got a cheque from me for £600. It really works.”

TINA HOLLIS, TAKE 2 HAIR & BEAUTY

“WHEN I first opened I treated my salon as just a place where I worked; I was a busy stylist and my own salon was the next step, but I had no management skills or financial training. I used to stick my head in the sand, pop a bill I couldn’t afford into a drawer and pretend it wasn’t there!

“If the bills don’t get paid then there’s no salon, so I learnt to be open with my team, get them involved and let them be part of the reality check. Once that clicked, things became easier! Many salon owners pay themselves last, and if the money isn’t there, they go without.

“It’s so important to know your weekly/monthly break even, so I created ‘money pots’. From your main bank account you can create holding accounts (speak to your bank about this). Every week I transfer the amount I need into each to cover those bills – rent/mortgage, PAYE, VAT, wages, utilities, stock. No spending on new products or shiny tools until all these pots are full. I keep a pot for the nice-to-haves but pay the essentials first.

“For VAT, a good tip is to sit down at the end of each week and look at how much you have taken and then take off the VAT to leave you with the net takings. Transfer the VAT money straight into a money pot, then you aren’t tempted to use it! When your VAT return is done and you’ve claimed back what you can, you should have money left in that pot. My advice is to leave it in there and then you can use this towards your tax bill or for a rainy day.”

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AFTER 10 YEARS in business, Chopp Hair’s Paul Phillips (pictured, inset right) felt it was time for a rebrand more in-keeping with Chopp’s values, vibe and location in Leighon-Sea. He also decided to add handcrafted soap at £20 for 200g as an additional revenue stream and another way of encouraging customers to use natural products.

“I’m into surfing and am passionate about the ocean and sea life, and want to make sure that I’m having a positive impact on what’s going down the plug holes of Essex the best I can,” says Paul, who makes the soap with a local artisan.

Two fresh scents are on offer: Charred Petals and Bitter Orange Neroli & Yellow Clay. The soaps are natural, veganfriendly, palm oil-free and handmade using a cold process dating back more than 4,800 years. “We are keeping it sustainable, local and collection is in person, which helps with the carbon footprint. It really doesn’t get any greener.”

Tina Hollis

CHROMA POP

OVER AT TREVOR SORBIE’S Covent Garden salon, brand and education director Nathan Walker and creative director Giuseppe Stelitano have devised Chroma Pop, a technique that uses contrasting panel colouring. “It illustrates the simplicity of colour placement to accentuate a look. We created a menu of services around this and worked out how the idea deserves to be a premium colour technique that can be changeable and versatile,” explains Nathan. “Having a changeable part increases loyalty and offers an ‘only in-salon’ element, crucial to increasing client visit frequency.”

From fuchsia to blue using colours from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris and Pulp Riot, Chroma Pop and other colour revolutions at Trevor Sorbie are about clearly offering an easy-to-understand concept that starts conversations with clients and promotes new recruits to colour. “We regularly look at our offering and how to make this more relevant and relatable to the masses searching social media to find the colour inspiration they want,” adds Nathan.

Chroma

Pop: creative concept and hair by Giuseppe Stelitano, colour by Nathan Walker

QUENCHED HAIR

FROM BALMAIN to Dries Van Noten, the fashion week catwalks have been awash with drenched hair. “Wetlook hair was 100 per cent a vibe I saw a lot in the S/S23 shows,” says session stylist and Q Cut Hair & Beauty’s Syd Hayes. “It always looks amazing but hard to make relevant unless you’re on holiday.” It doesn’t have to be as extreme as what your clients see on the catwalk though: you can share tips on sculpted styles, such as ultra-sleek ponytails, using lashings of Hair By Sam McKnight Self Control Gel.

WABI-SABI

IN SOME OF the coolest new salon interiors, a particular phrase keeps appearing: WabiSabi. A traditional Japanese aesthetic, it centres on the acceptance of impermanence, imperfection, and the beauty and transience of nature. Wabi refers to the kind of beauty in asymmetrical or unbalanced things; while Sabi is the beauty of aged things, reflecting the concept of the impermanence of life and the passage of time.

Koop Studio in Battersea is one location that’s taken the concept to its core. The co-working space’s creative director Brice Boidin wanted to think beyond the surface finishes, materials and colours, and instead create “a more profound and experiential environment, as well as a unique sense of atmosphere”. He explains: “In striving to achieve this, we thought about the space as an environment that encapsulates all the senses in relation to sound, touch and smell, to create a more sensory experience and an atmosphere of calm and serenity.”

This concept went on to inspire the brand’s ethos and how they approach work as a whole. “We stripped back our interior to its shell, exposing its existing features and structure. Many of our materials have been left unfinished to age naturally over time.”

Koop

Studio

Imagery courtesy of Hair by Sam McKnight

BRAVE NEW WORLD

OFFER SOMETHING FRESH, EXCITING AND EFFECTIVE, WITH HAIRSTORY’S GAME-CHANGING NEW WASH

Don’t be afraid to explore outside the box; just because something is the ‘norm’ doesn’t mean it’s the best option. This curiosity is what fuels Hairstory, a brand that is laser-focused on offering the best products and experiences for its customers, providing what’s right for them rather than creating problems to be xed.

Hairstory was born from one simple question: is shampoo the best way to wash hair? While they certainly pull impurities from hair, they also contain detergents that remove a lot of goodness too. Detergents can leave the scalp vulnerable to irritation, and can cause dry lengths, static, and oily roots as the body tries to rehydrate the hair.

The answer, according to Hairstory, is cleansing creams. Its New Wash is detergent-free and cleans hair with a blend of essential oils and naturally-derived saturated cleansers. There’s no foam to be seen as excess oil, styling products, grime and impurities are all carried away, leaving natural oils untouched and the scalp’s ecosystem undisturbed.

“Using a conditioning cleansing cream like New Wash won’t require a separate conditioner, and it’s impossible to overuse New Wash. It also won’t strip away colour, which stays true longer,” says Jackie Gilbert Bauer, co-founder and head of product development.

RETHINK THE FUTURE

Not satis ed with simply reshaping the way we clean hair, Hairstory has big plans for the future and for sustainability. New Wash not only reduces the need for multiple products (and therefore plastics) but its recyclable pouches also weigh less than traditional bottles to transport. The cleansing cream is 100 per cent biodegradable and won’t harm marine life when rinsed away. As well as being detergent-free, New Wash is paraben-, phthalate- and sulphate-free.

Hairstory caters to salons and customers alike with its re llable aluminium dispensers and re ll pouches. Switching to New Wash right now will cut your salon’s packaging carbon footprint by 85 per cent, and there are further sustainability goals being met on an ongoing basis.

“NEW WASH REALLY HELPS US BRING OUT THE BEST IN OUR CUTS; IT’S LIKE A SECRETAGENT STYLING CREAM. IT HELPS DEFINE ALL THE SUBTLE LAYERS AND SHAPES THAT ARE A SIGNATURE PART OF OUR WORK”

NICK LATHAM AND SEAN PAUL NOTHER, THEHAIRBROS

CHANGE MAKERS

AN EASY-TO-USE SALON SOFTWARE SYSTEM WILL TRANSFORM YOUR DAY-TO-DAY LIFE AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. HERE’S WHAT IT’S DONE FOR THIS BARBER SHOP OWNER…

Q: What inspired you to start Pankhurst London?

Many years ago I was a creative director for Sassoon before I started doing session work for films and bands in the ’90s. We saw a gap in the market for something stylish – at that time there were only traditional men’s barbers around. We wanted to create a space for men focusing on quality and craftsmanship.

Q: Your London location is based just off Savile Row –what kind of clientele do you attract?

You must appeal to different tribes of men, be that magazine editors, bankers, hipsters or taxi drivers. What appeals to all men? The Aston Martin in a James Bond film, a beautiful whisky, a classic Rolex. It’s style over fashion and everybody is welcome. We’re like a gentleman’s club.

“YOU DON’T NEED TO HAVE 100 MORE CLIENTS, IT’S ABOUT HOW TO MAXIMISE YOUR EXISTING CLIENTELE” BRENT PANKHURST

Q: What have you focused on to always deliver a five-star appointment?

It’s like in Goodfellas, when Ray Liotta’s character takes his girlfriend on a date and they bring him out a table right by the stage at the club. That’s how you need to make your customer feel; like they’re the most special person. We keep notes about clients’ preferences in the Slick system. We have an amazing clientele; it’s ultimately about personal relationships.

Q: You’ve used both manual and digital systems – what prompted the move to Slick?

My sister, who is a hairdresser in Oxford, recommended Slick. What was instantly different was that you could easily get hold of them on the phone. It’s all about that personal touch. Slick had never worked in Dubai, but when we approached the team about our business, they bent over backwards for us to get it working.

Q: How does Slick help your business?

At the end of the month, when things are quieter, Slick contacts us with suggestions of who to target, and we send a reminder out – it always leads to sales. For me, as a non-techie person, it has been a gamechanger. It’s absolutely changed the way we run our business.

KAYE SOTOMI, CHOP CHOP LONDON SPEAKER COLIN

STEPH STEVENSON, HNB SALON & SPA SPEAKER

POSITIVE VIBES AT DUBLIN 2022

IRISH SALON AND BARBER SHOP OWNERS ARE RIDING A ROLLERCOASTER OF INDUSTRY CHANGE BUT RESPONDING WITH BOLD IDEAS, POSITIVE THINKING, AND PRAGMATIC VIEWS ON PRICING, AS SALON SMART DISCOVERED WHEN IT RETURNED TO DUBLIN AFTER A THREE-YEAR HIATUS

Salon Smart – Creative HEAD’s flagship business networking event presented in association with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris – returned to Dublin to discover a hairdressing landscape almost unrecognisable since our last visit in 2019.

Increased self-employment; a more focused eye on work/life balance; rising energy costs; changing consumer trends as many clients continue to work from home (Tuesday is the new Saturday); a boom in young entrepreneurship in hair and beauty but a battle to find the talent salons need…

Everything has changed and continues to change. But what a fantastic response from Irish hair business owners! From the presenters onstage we saw a focus on recruitment and retention, fresh thinking on team spirit and salon culture and a desire to improve and grow, whether by acquiring textured hair skills or embracing sustainable practices within the business.

And on the floor, an audience that was fully engaged, involved and sharing ideas of their own. It was impressive, grown-up, positive stuff, and here are all the best bits…

A DEEP APPRECIATION OF TEAM

The importance of teams and the need to keep them happy (and loyal) was a recurring theme. Post-Covid, employers are creating packages tailored to individual staff needs, whether that’s more flexible hours to achieve a better work/life balance, or financial packages that reinforce the positive aspects of employment. Hellen Ward’s Apprentice Travel Subsidy Scheme –where trainees are reimbursed a percentage of travel costs in return for good attendance – is proving popular among young workers and their parents.

At Carla Rose McQuillan’s The Space, team bonding events and Friday morning rituals –where everyone meets for breakfast and a chat ahead of the working day – ensure staff feel appreciated. But a word of caution came from Patrick Gildea of Patrick Gildea Hairdressing in Letterkenny: “People are frightened to say no to staff, but there is a line that shouldn’t be crossed. We’re running a business, after all. We need basic foundations in place, where we all agree that this is what we do – and beyond that, well, we can have a discussion.”

HEART IS SOMETIMES MORE IMPORTANT THAN HEAD

Achieving a better work/life balance is the new holy grail of hairdressing – and that applied to business owners, as well as their teams. Lockdown reminded multi awardwinning Wildflower owner Danielle Garner of what it means to be a human being; now she actively builds family time into her schedule, rather than filling gaps with extra tasks or creative projects. She also found that being supportive of her 23-strong workforce, rather than focusing always on working harder and longer, allows them to achieve greater results. “Our ‘why’ is the pursuit of happiness in the workplace,” she says.

Meanwhile, Michelle Grimes described creating her ‘heart-led’ business, the Maven Studio co-working space in Dublin, as a response to seeing talented stylists quit the industry due to burnout. She has no sense of ego about being a business owner herself; rather, she actively enjoys “being in service”, ensuring everyone who works in Maven is fully supported to run their own business well and successfully.

delegate pr file

“I’m busy building a team of textured hair specialists and the panel debate on Texture Equality was of particular interest to me. It’s great that these conversations are happening. People go to the salon to feel good, but clients with curly, coily or Afro hair often feel uncomfortable or unwelcome. I feel I need to do something about it.”

Patrick Gildea

Danielle Garner

Michelle Grimes

EMMA MARCEY, OWNER OF ODD, LIMERICK

THINK DIFFERENTLY ABOUT EDUCATION

“Hairdressers are stupid,” was the provocative slide in educator and three-time L’Oréal Colour Trophy winner Conor James Doyle’s fascinating presentation on why education needs to be approached through the lens of our industry’s specific (but largely overlooked) needs. Neurodiversity, an overarching term for learning difficulties or differences, is prevalent among hairdressers, resulting in various triggers that deter or hinder future learning and progression.

Doyle’s informal study of 1,343 hairdressers revealed that more than 55 per cent had either been diagnosed with, or related with, a neurodiversity such as dyslexia, autism or ADHD. While this often led to negative experiences at school (51 per cent) and anxiety around learning (also 51 per cent), neurodiversity is also closely linked to strengths such as problem-solving, crisis management and creative thinking – skills that emphasise the advantages of diversity and which should be celebrated.

Doyle argued that awareness of the obstacles around teaching hairdressers with neurodiversity can create a better structure for learning. What’s key is an injection of dopamine into lessons (“rocket fuel for focus”) – lots of practical tasks coupled with regular breaks – plus a ‘safe space’ approach, where students are encouraged to ask questions and share ideas, and teachers are not afraid to admit mistakes.

The presentation included some clever practical demonstrations in how this collaborative approach can improve learning. The audience was presented with some memory tests. When invited simply to observe, the success rate was just 10 per cent, but it rose to 90 per cent when shared learning techniques were involved.

Concluded Doyle: “We need to take more time to familiarise ourselves with the needs of our industry, and to create spaces for students to transition to ‘active contributors’ in their continued learning. Only then can we generate new spaces to allow true collaborative learning to take place.”

SPECIALISATION IS IMPERATIVE

Hellen Ward argued that focusing on a specific skill, rather than being a Jack-of-all-trades, is important for both staff and the business. Creating an area of expertise not only means team members can charge higher prices, but it also ensures clients see multiple team members on every visit – for cut, colour, nails and so on – meaning they’re more likely to stay loyal to the salon, even if their favourite stylist leaves.

Salons across Ireland are upskilling in textured and curly hair in order to grow their client base and, therefore, their business. An expert panel, including Marco Dias, cLHAIR founder Claire Martin-Kennedy, and owner of The Hair Space in Galway, Laura Murphy, delivered plenty of insight into timings and prices, and addressed the fear many feel about moving into this sector. “Be humble and open enough to shadow a texture specialist, and make sure you practise on blocks,” advised Claire.

RAFAEL MULLER DOS SANTOS, BARBER AT MEN’S GROOMING IRELAND, DUBLIN

“I want to improve my work and to understand the culture in Irish hairdressing a bit more. I’m from Brazil and the expansion in barbering has already happened back home, so I feel like I can really be of value here.

I’m loving Salon Smart Dublin –every session has been brilliant.”

Marco Dias

Claire Martin-Kennedy (centre)

Laura Murphy

Conor James Doyle

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“We love Salon Smart! We went to the London event before because chair renting was a big topic and we wanted to see what people thought about it. The whole thing was so useful, we were hooked and now we attend Salon Smart whenever we can. We just love the honesty of it all – it’s so real.”

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

Lockdown, it turns out, wasn’t all bad. For Maynooth salon owner Lorraine Naughton of OB1 Hair it was an opportunity to research sustainability practices and rethink the way she was going to run her salon business.

“The biggest threat to the world is that we think someone else is going to save it,” said Lorraine, whose commitment to sustainability has not only resulted in a healthier space for staff and clients, but also zero waste being sent to land ll. For Lorraine, sustainability is a commercial imperative too, arguing that green-minded clients of all ages are actively seeking out her business and happy to pay the €2 ‘green fee’ she adds to every bill – all proceeds being donated to charity.

Lorraine was part of a sustainability panel that discussed how the hairdressing industry is tackling the challenges posed by climate change. Belfast salon owner Andrew Mulvenna began his journey in 2021 with a ‘Green Commitment’ that includes renewable energy, biodegradable and compostable hair towels and capes, waterreducing policies and even bamboo toilet rolls. “It’s important to do your research but it’s also very easy to get overwhelmed or obsessed,” he said. “My advice is to make a list so that you can break it all down and tackle one thing at a time.” He’s also appointed a sustainability manager in his salon to research best options and ensure best practice.

PRICES WILL RISE IN 2023 ALONG WITH CLIENT EXPECTATIONS

Rising energy costs, the introduction of compulsory pensions and an impending hike in VAT mean prices are likely to rise across the board in Ireland. And although it was generally felt that there would be public sympathy for such a move, it was also agreed that clients would be looking for an incredible in-salon experience in return. Prior to social media, computers and even the humble typewriter, people told each other stories, said Monica Teodoro of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. Now is the time to tell your clients the story of what you, as a business, are all about. It’s about being real, authentic and focusing on what makes you unique.

Kevin Bodenham, owner of Moyo Hair & Beauty in Dublin, agreed that taking the rst step is often the most dif cult part of the journey to sustainability. “You have to do as much as you can, otherwise you’d never start,” he said, pointing to a slide about the Great Paci c Garbage Patch, an island of oating plastic rubbish three-times the size of France that kills thousands of marine animals every year. What an incentive to start dealing properly with your salon waste…

WATCH THE SALON SMART VIDEO AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM,OR SEARCH CREATIVEHEADMAG ON FACEBOOK FOR OUR EVENT PHOTO ALBUM

Pictured from left: Kevin Bodenham, Lorraine Naughton, and Andrew Mulvenna

Monica Teodoro

ANTHONY AND DEIDRE KILCOYNE, SALON 2, SLIGO

THE TALENT WHISPERER

Cocooned in the plush upholstery of a Soho private members club, away from the hustle and bustle of Dean Street’s morning rush, it’s hard not to feel like you’ve been let into a secret world where the outside is kept at arm’s length. Bjorn Krischker leads me into a quiet sitting room, and fiddles with a chrome button on the wall. The soundtrack is reduced to a whisper. His aquamarine eyes sparkle with mischief; he clearly feels at home here enough to start altering the venue’s carefully curated vibe…

It sums up his approach in a nutshell. Represented by the Wall Group, he won the Most Wanted Session Stylist Award in his first year of being finalised (nominated by beauty press, MUAs and photographers).

His own secret weapon when it comes to his incredible roster of red carpet clients is ensuring that, from the beginning, they feel a warm welcome and are utterly relaxed in his company.

His focus on my comfort is even more impressive when I discover he’s been working until midnight, operating on Los Angeles time for the star of a new Netflix series on a virtual press tour. He’ll be doing the same later;

if he’s exhausted, he shows no sign of it.

“It was so hard for me not to be at Most Wanted, because when you don’t experience the win in person, it feels a little abstract. Did I make it all up?!” He jokes when I ask him about his Most Wanted success over a restorative latte. Indeed, Bjorn was tending to actor Tessa Thompson at the Venice Film Festival as his name was called out at Tate Modern. He sent his partner of 22 years, Michael, to collect his trophy. “It feels a little strange, surreal. I’m still so overwhelmed by it. It’s phenomenal.”

Yet the win itself is anything but surreal when you look at his CV; couple that with

the fact that he had to restart his session career when he moved to London from his native Hamburg, and it’s even more notable. There’s no hairdressing lineage in the Krischker family. Dad was chief executive of a bank, although he admits his mum has a creative side. “They were always very supportive, but at the same time: ‘Why don’t you start with me in the bank,’” he grins. A schoolfriend turned to 14-year-old Bjorn following a disastrous haircut in a local salon.

“One of my majors in school was art. She said: ‘You’re good with shapes, I think you can cut my hair better.’ The result was okay… but it took hours!”

It was obvious early on that his interest in hair was no fad.

Grazia , January 2020, image by Nicolas Valois

Harper’s Bazaar , April 2019, image by Richard Phibbs

Bjorn Krischker

“She told others, then more people came. It was all happening in our house, and my dad said: ‘I should build you a little salon.’”

And so the Krischker basement was transformed for teenage Bjorn and his after-school clientele. “From a practical point, it got them out of the way – sometimes I had as many as five people coming after school,” he laughs. “And then my parents’ friends heard and suddenly I had them and family members coming too.”

A friend’s mum owned a salon that was closely affiliated with Sassoon where he would help out and, after completing school, he started in another Hamburg salon. Yet he had a further passion in dancing, having started ballet at the age of eight.

“Dancing and hair have a lot in common – it’s about movement. When you think of how the body moves and works, you can translate that into hair,” he says. In addition to styling

Hamburg locals, he was also helping to keep them toned, leading aerobics classes. In fact, it was how he met his partner Michael. A theatre director, Michael was set to start a production of the musical Cats and needed to get into shape, so signed up to a class Bjorn was leading.

His fitness obsession led to another life-changing introduction. A fellow trainer was a model and introduced Bjorn to a photographer, and from there he discovered the world of session styling. “It was scary, it’s very different to being in a salon,” he recalls. “Different things are expected from you. But you learn quickly how to read the room. With the talent or the model in the morning we are usually the ones who are prepping them, boosting their confidence before they go on set.” It’s a mood-setting that’s needed in a salon – “you have to give someone the confidence that you will be able to cut their hair – in session, its amplified because the exposure is on another level.”

Bitten by the session bug, Bjorn started to chafe against limits on his creativity. “At that time, German hair was more commercial, everything was a bit more on the safe side,” he remembers. “I knew a few other people from Germany who lived in Paris or London and came back with a different skill set. You’ve been exposed to different worlds, it broadens your horizons.”

Glass , June 2019, image by Paul Farrell

Glass , June 2019, image by Paul Farrell

Chanel Special for Glass , 2022, image by Rokas Darulius

He admits he always “had a thing” for London. “The buzz, I love the people. Brits are the friendliest people ever. Everyone gives you a chance.” That’s something Bjorn could relate to. “I’m always open and welcoming, mothering people and feeling responsible and making sure people feel good,” he smiles.

It crystallises why he’s so in-demand as a session stylist. “People feel seen when you work with them. And that doesn’t only mean the talent; it’s also the photo or studio assistant, someone who’s with you all day but who you maybe don’t work with so closely in that moment. But everyone is an important part of the team.”

Yet as much as he loved London when he arrived in 2010, he admits that breaking into the scene was hard. “You move to a different country, a really big city, and you have to start again from scratch. You bring the skill sets but obviously a very commercial, German portfolio. Back then I didn’t see the difference. But you must almost retrain your eyes, see things differently,” he says.

Meeting his first agent – Sarah Lynch from Frank Agency –was a turning point. She also represented hairstylist Peter Lux, who was on the books of the German agency Bjorn was signed to. “I owe Sarah a lot. She saw how hungry I was, how eager and willing to make it,” he says. “She introduced me to my first celebrities as well, she started to get me lots of different work and introduced me to new people, photographers.”

He began assisting on shows in London and Paris. “This is where you learn what creativity means,” he laughs, “and when you’re backstage its so stressful, you get shouted at. People are under so much pressure that they’re not themselves anymore.”

That’s influenced his tone of leadership now he’s the one leading shows. “It feels horrendous when you’re trying to do

Erin O’Connor for Vanity Fair , July 2022, image by Damian Fox

Tessa Thompson

Daisy Edgar Jones for Wonderland , A/W21, image by Buzz White

Emerald Fennell for the 2021Baftas, image by Zoe McConnell

your best but you get shouted at. I get it, but it’s old-fashioned, often a power game. I’ve experienced all of it. If someone’s not up to standard yet, then maybe don’t work with them. That is something you discuss afterwards, not on the day.”

What’s also changed backstage –whether on set or at the shows – is the prevalence of social media, something that Bjorn has cannily worked to his advantage; he’s often followed by a camera backstage to ensure brilliant content. “I love a Reel, you can show who you are, highlight your work. When you look at someone’s social media pro le, you really get an idea who they are. I have talent following my pro le, seeing what I’ve been doing, and they tell their publicist they’d like to work with me. Then new collaborations start.”

Obviously, there’s a ipside with social media. Does he read the comments? “You try not to!” he laughs. “It’s hard because what all these followers don’t know is the big plan that the talent has.” It’s something he’s experienced rst-hand. “When you do something to their hair that’s maybe not what they’re known for, their followers will tell you that this is not okay! ‘Bring the quiff back!’ Oh god, sorry – that was a line I had to deal with!

“There are trolls hiding behind accounts with no picture, no posts, no nothing, just to have a voice. They’re in love with a talent that you’re working with, and they think they’re entitled to express an opinion. I’m a strong person, I can handle it. But it’s your work being criticised, and you don’t know by whom.”

Indeed, no new hair look is simple with

such big names. “You come up with moodboards, stories, you’re basically art directing the look, which is one of my favourite parts of the job. If the talent loves it, we go for it.”

He points to his work with Tessa Thompson in Venice – a career highlight – as a perfect example.

“She is someone who will push me, very clear on what she wants but she always listens to the team. They have a starting point, they planned the out ts weeks or months in advance. This is what inspires the glam team as well. She’ll say: ‘Oh, I’m wearing this humongous Marc Jacobs dress,’ and you think about how to highlight that, how to make it work. There is always a lot to consider.

“Tessa always asks what you think, which is the famous question! Someone like her, you have carte blanche, but it can be the hardest thing at the same time! Because you can do literally anything. In the moment, it can be dif cult to nd the right thing.

‘What do I like? What is my inspiration? What have

Will Poulter for The Last Magazine , May 2019, image by Willow Williams

Asa Butter eld for The Laterals , A/W 2019, image by Luc Coiffait NR , November 2021, image by Paul Farrell

Working with model Baylee Winkel, March 2022

I done or not done previously? What do I want to show?’ You always want to explore new ground.”

Another favourite collaborator is Erin O’Connor, introduced to him through make-up artist Adam de Cruz. The rst job was prepping her for three FROW appearances at Fashion Week, three different looks needed in one day. He gets a little emotional: “It felt immediately like family. She’s open to anything, the perfect subject, but she also comes with an incredible fashion heritage. You meet this person who has worked with all the greats, and it puts a lot of pressure on you!” he laughs. “She’s had every hair colour, cut and wig on her head! You’re working with someone who can carry off any look – that’s the exciting part.”

He shares the impact of one such experimental styling session ahead of an event. Bjorn glued in lots of hair extensions – green against slicked back hair, creating a top knot on her famously short crop. Undoubtedly, a brave choice for stylist and model, but it paid off: “Next time I saw her, she said: ‘You should have been in the room! It was amazing, the way people were approaching me, asking me about my hair’.”

Immediately she had a starting point for people to talk to her. “And this is what people need because everyone I work with can also be nervous when they go to events,” he explains. “You don’t know who you’re going to meet. You must give them the con dence through hair, make-up and styling.”

It distils why he loves red carpet so much, it offers an “amazing outlet and exposure” for his work. “On a shoot if it’s not 100 per cent you can change it. The pressure is different

with red carpet. It must be right straight away. It must work from every angle. You have time constraints. There are other things happening – an interview, stylists running around trying shoes or earrings.”

There is nowhere to hide. Your skills are on full show, literally from all angles… “Also, it’s got to hold for at least the next few hours while she’s on the carpet, while she’s at the screening, the after party. And if you’re not in the car, you don’t know what’s happening on the way. What if she hits her head in the car? It has happened before!”

I can feel my blood pressure rising just listening to him list potential disasters. “It’s very stressful, and you’re absolutely knackered afterwards! You have given your all – physically, emotionally, creatively – but it is so ful lling,” he grins.

With so much already accomplished, is there anything left on his bucket list? “I feel like the next best thing is always around the corner,” he says, xing those piercing eyes on me. “It’s dif cult to talk about the highlights of a career because the next highlight hasn’t happened yet. You always think you can do better. When you’re a creative person, you always think: ‘Have I really done my best work yet? Probably not’.”

Glass , June 2019, image by Paul Farrell

Vogue Philippines , October 2022, image by Philip Papadis

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX BARRON-HOUGH

HAIR Adam Reed, Sarah Black and Holly Matheson at Adam Reed London. MAKE-UP Holly Treadgold. CLOTHING eBay UK.

HEAR MORE FROM ADAM REED AND SARAH BLACK ON BEYOND BEAUTY – FOLLOW

Groovy kind of love

TAKING INSPIRATION FROM ’60S POP CULTURE, THIS COLLECTION FROM FELLOWSHIP PROJECT X 2022, UNDER THE WATCHFUL EYE OF SAM BURNETT, PRESENTS A MODERN VISION WITH A RETROSPECTIVE EDGE. WELCOME BOLD SILHOUETTES AND ARTFULLY PLACED POPS OF MUTED PSYCHEDELIC COLOUR

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SQUARE CREATIVE

HAIR Fellowship Project X 2022. CREATIVE DIRECTION Sam Burnett. MAKE-UP Violet Veng. STYLING Magda Jacobs. SUPPORTED BY Goldwell and KMS.

SCENE

THE EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT

COTERIE LONDON

AS PEOPLE’S PERCEPTION and expectations of work and the workplace shift, so the industry must shift with them. In front of a packed-out audience in east London, Creative HEAD – in association with JOICO – assembled a panel of industry taste-shapers for the final Coterie gathering of the year to discuss what’s new, what’s coming next, and the opportunities we can create out of change. Expertly moderated by Creative HEAD’s editorial director, Amanda Nottage, the lively debate covered everything from how to attract new youngsters into hairdressing to how we must adapt our approach to training to suit Gen Z, with social media running as a thread through most of the discussions. One thing everyone agreed on: there is no longer a dictionary definition for hairdresser or barber – we’re far too multi-functional for that. Everyone left buzzing about the changes they could be making, and with a generous gift from JOICO, too.

Jay Birmingham

Karrie Fitzmaurice

THE PANEL

Jay Birmingham, session artist

Jack Mead and Lydia Wolfe, owners, Jack & The Wolfe

Karrie Fitzmaurice, owner, Kit Studios

Georgia Freeman, The It List Rising Star 2022 and senior stylist, Q Cut Hair & Beauty

Ky Wilson, owner, The Social

Mike O’Gorman and Lewis Stanford, founders, The Rubicon

Lydia Wolfe

Lewis

Stanford

Mike O’Gorman

Georgia Freeman

Jack Mead

Ky Wilson (left)

THE LAST WORD ON…

Nutrition

LUNCH HOURS? MANY HAIRDRESSERS DON’T KNOW THEM. SO HOW CAN WE ENSURE BUSY STYLISTS ARE GETTING THE RIGHT FUEL FOR THEIR WORKING DAY?

COFFEE. RED BULL. One famous salon owner kept a stash of Pot Noodles in her office… Hairdressers and barbers do not have the best reputation when it comes to looking after themselves. Lunch hours are often non-existent, and what stylists can grab to scarf down is likely processed to keep them going until the doors close. January will see lots of us embracing a healthier outlook on our diet… but if it’s to last beyond February, we need to be realistic.

It’s important to start the day right, so don’t skip breakfast. But if you’re rushing around juggling school runs or long commutes, then a little prep goes a long way. Carve out a some time at the start of your week to plan.

“Overnight oats last well in the fridge, plus you can have them on the go in the morning or as a mid-morning snack,” says Suzanne Cooper, a nutritionist and founder of GLOWWA Hair Food supplements. This will keep you fuelled for longer and is a healthier option than toast or cereals. Mix up the flavours with different fruits, and consider additions like cacao nibs and nut butters to make them feel a touch more indulgent.

“If you can start the day with a decent breakfast, such as eggs or a nutrientpacked smoothie, that’s great,” adds Simone Thomas, founder of Simone Thomas Salon and hair loss clinic in Bournemouth, and the brains behind Simone Thomas Wellness. “This is the time to also take your supplements to ensure you’re getting the vitamins and minerals you need for the day.”

Is your column stuffed to the gills? No problem, the right snacks can keep you going. Load up on healthier options like fruit, chopped veg, yoghurt, nuts, good quality dark chocolate and seeds. “This will help prevent you grabbing coffee, sugar and processed food which lead to a crash in energy later,” admits Suzanne.

A big – and easy – win is water. Keep hydrated and you’ll feel brighter, more alert and less hungry. Indeed, many of us mistake thirst for hunger. Grab that refillable water bottle; that way you can track what you’ve consumed much

more easily. You need at least two litres a day, perhaps perked up with cucumber or mint.

Now, let’s be real. Coffee is likely to make an appearance… “Coffee is fine in moderation,” says Suzanne, who suggests no more than two cups a day to prevent raising cortisol levels –our stress hormone – too high.

Another quick win? Simply eating 20 almonds a day. Those six grams of protein naturally keep you feeling fuller for longer, and the magnesium is brilliant for balancing out blood sugar to prevent cravings. They also contain phenylalanine, which supports cognitive function and improved memory, perfect for a busy day in the salon.

And for Pot Noodle fans, we’ve got you. A quick, nutritious lunch that you can prep in the staff room with a kettle is a Mason jar pot noodle. At home, break some noodles into your jar, and top with veg – tiny florets of broccoli or cauliflower, strips of pepper, ginger, onion, kale. Crumble in a low-salt stock cube, or a teaspoon of curry powder. There’s no water so nothing to leak en route and, when you’re ready, just pour on boiling water, close the lid and leave for a few minutes to soften. Top with seeds for extra nutrition points!

Dose Juice for Unsplash

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Shave time off bookings with Slick.

People don’t want to waste time queuing. It’s so easy for clients to book online through Slick, so we can focus on making them feel special from the moment they walk through the door.”

BRENT PANKHURST

Co-founder of Pankhurst London