Creative HEAD July/August 2015

£4.50 JULY/AUGUST 2015

In print•online•everywhere!

JULY/AUGUST 2015 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

Power trip

Recharge, refuel, re-energise your business

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*By using Pro Fiber at-home range and by applying the Pro Fiber Recharge once a week for up to six weeks

A NEW ERA OF PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

INTRODUCING THE RECHARGING HAIRCARE PROGRAMME THAT CAN BE PROLONGED FOR UP TO SIX WEEKS* L'Oreal_IFC+ 8pp Insert5.indd 2

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*By using Pro Fiber at-home range and by applying the Pro Fiber Recharge once a week for up to six weeks

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

REVEAL LONG-LASTING HAIR BEAUTY

BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

SAY HELLO TO APTYL 100 ● It all starts in the salon with a diagnosis from you ● The in-salon intense Renew treatment grips to the hair ● Prescribed Pro Fiber haircare range is specifically formulated

to help extend the effects for up to six weeks at home* ● Shiny, more beautiful hair, as if renewed PRO FIBER: Seven years of research, 15 patents pending

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*By using Pro Fiber at-home range and by applying the Pro Fiber Recharge once a week for up to six weeks

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

RECHARGE, TIME AFTER TIME ● ● ●

●

APTYL 100 is L’Oréal Professionnel’s exclusive technology Hair restoration starts in-salon with an indulgent treatment The three tiers of haircare mean there is a homecare solution for every client, whatever the condition and thickness of their hair Using the prescribed homecare, the salon treatment effects can be extended for up to six weeks* for soft, shiny, healthy looking hair, as if restored

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THE POWER TO ADVISE AND DELIVER LONG-LASTING, BEAUTIFUL HAIR

AN INNOVATION EXCLUSIVE TO HAIRDRESSERS Be part of L’Oréal Professionnel’s new era of haircare. To power-up your client loyalty and retail levels with Pro Fiber, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

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23/06/2015 11:00

SIMPLE, STRAIGHTFORWARD BUSINESS ADVICE

BECAUSE RUNNING A SALON IS COMPLICATED ENOUGH The no-nonsense guide to launching your business

Each 28-page guide is packed with fuss-free “how-to” advice on launching and running a salon business.

Buy individually, or grab the set as it grows…

The no-nonsense guide to team building

Start your own salon

Build a better team

Your name, your way – now take the first step

Educate and motivate your glamour squad

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02/04/2015 14:09

The no-nonsense guide to PR & marketing

02 BUILDATEAM.indd 1

02/04/2015 14:05

The no-nonsense guide to customer experience

Get noticed

The perfect client journey

Make sure everyone’s talking about your business

Ensure your clients enjoy the whole ride, not just the destination

ONLY £5 EACH!

BUY 3 AND GET 1 FREE!

03 prmarketingAW.indd 1

02/04/2015 14:04

04 customerjourneyaw.indd 1

02/04/2015 17:37

BUY ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL CREATIVE HEAD ON 01434 610416

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15/04/2015 11:36

Congratulations TO ALL OF OUR

WINNERS

2015 L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD

2ND PLACE

RMUK Leeds

3RD PLACE WINNER

ABACUS HAIR, Bewdley

TREVOR SORBIE

Manchester

2015 L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE AWARD RUNNER UP

STUART HOLMES SALON Cheltenham

WINNER

THE COLOUR ROOM, Stockport

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HAIR INSPIRED

by

FA S H I O N

2015 MIZANI AFRO LOOK AWARD

2015 L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY YOUNG COLOURIST AWARD

WINNER

WINNERS:

SIMON WEBSTER HAIR, Brighton

NORTHERN IRISH

2015 L’ORÉAL PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD

Riah Hair & Beauty, Belfast

EMMA REYNOLDS

SCOTTISH

KIRSTY MACBAIN

Alan Edwards Salon, Glasgow NORTH WESTERN

OLIVIA NEVILL WINNER LADIES

WINNER MEN’S

ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

MILK HAIRDRESSING

Liverpool

Livingston

Ashley Gamble Ltd, Shifnal NORTH EASTERN

SAMUEL JOHNSON

Harringtons, Hull

EASTERN

KATIE GROGAN

Headlines, Hertford WESTERN

RACHEL WHITE

A.K.A. Hairdressing, Bristol SOUTHERN

CHELSEA ROSNER

The Chair, Canterbury LONDON

CONNOR SCANLON

Headmasters Ham Academy, London

LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM /LOrealProfUK

22871_035 JO Colour Trophy 2015 June DPS 285x440_Creative Head.indd 2

/LOrealProfUK

#LCT15

18/06/2015 12:47

NEW BLONDE IDOL #NOTABOXEDBLONDE

All rights reserved. 2014

Chiara Ferragni, Fashion Blogger

Contact your local Redken Sales Consultant or ring 0208 762 4121

BECOME A BLONDE AUTHORITY Customize perfect looking blondes for your clients with New Blonde Idol: › High Lift Shades. Cream haircolor in 8 shades, from icy platinum to balanced beige. › Blue Oil Lightening System. Oil booster and blue powder activator lifts up to 7 levels for perfectly customized results, on and off scalp. › Base Breakers. Perfect for root touchups—1 level of lift in just 10 minutes.

DIAMOND SHINE

TECHNOLOGY

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18/06/2015 14:20

THE NEW WAY TO A

FLAWLESS FINISH

“

I’ve never used any ionic products before that deliver this level of instant shine and smoothing. It’s great when you see the science make such a huge difference. These are by far my favourite dryer and straighteners and a must-have in my everyday kit.”

Paul Percival Co-Founder Percy & Reed

The new Diamond range from BaByliss Pro combines diamond infused ceramic with active ionic conditioning that has 90% more ions* to transform the hair. The result? Fast styling that gives a super smooth finish with flawless shine. To find out more visit babylisspro.co.uk *Versus the best-selling BaByliss Pro AC Dryer

BAB00147_Pro Diamond_DPS_285x440_AW.indd 2

Available from

18/06/2015 14:21

TANGLE TEEZER’S TWO STEPS TO BEAUTIFUL HAIR...

DETANGLE

AT THE BACKWASH

AT THE STYLING STATION

DEFINES AND SHINES

www.tangleteezer.com

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22/05/2015 14:57

BLOW-STYLE

SMOOTHS AND VOLUMISES

Telephone: 020 7274 6128

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FROM ROOT TO TIPS HAIR STAYS FIRMLY IN THE BRUSH @tangleteezer

RESULTS YOU WOULDN’T EXPECT FROM A PADDLE BRUSH

tangle teezer

TangleTeezerUK

22/05/2015 14:58

T H E

M AG I C

TOUCH To become a stockist please call: 01943 811 310

Introducing the world’s first automatic Iron from Cloud Nine

/CLOUDNINEHAIR

@CLOUDNINEC9

@CLOUDNINEC9

/CLOUDNINEHAIR

WWW.CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM

Editor’s letter

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JOIN US!

It’s a tale of two cities this month as we celebrate the talents and salons of New York City (no mammoth Manhattan blow-drys here – we’re talking Williamsburg cool) and enjoy the buzz from the TIGI BedHead Space, in London’s edgiest neighbourhood, Shoreditch.

In NYC, we catch up with Englishman in New York, Paul Merritt, as he reveals how the Big Apple has rejuvenated his creativity, and peek inside the salons that are doing things a bit differently, from page 86. On the flipside, in our Business Edit on page 38 this month, we ask how salons in smaller rural locations can build their name and their clientele. Be inspired by Richard Phillipart, the It List It Guy of 2014, who has harnessed the power of social media to promote both his Boutique Atelier salon and his personal brand to pull in clients and make a real name for himself, from page 104. But who will be the It Guy of 2015? See who’s finalised in that category and the rest of The It List and Most Wanted Awards on page 52, and book your ticket for the Grand Final on 7 September.

Amanda Nottage Editor

Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year

amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine

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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App

One word: AWESOME. Entrants to Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted and It List Awards totally stepped it up this year, creating a huge job for our judges. Raise a glass to those in the running for a trophy, listed from page 52.

Then hit the phones fast! Tickets are flying for the 15th Most Wanted and It List Grand Final, taking place on Monday 7 September at London’s Natural History Museum.

Call 01434 610940 to book.

And in case you haven’t heard, hairdresser to the world’s most famous faces and long-standing collaborator with the biggest names in fashion, Sam McKnight will be talking exclusively at The Coterie in Edinburgh on 13 July. Go to creativeheadmag.com/store

@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag

22/06/2015 15:59

July/August

WHAT’S INSIDE 108 FASHION

ON THE COVER

Jane Littler at Andrew Collinge combines Victoriana with a cutting edge

Pro Fiber by L’Oréal Professionnel

64 SCENE

104

Loréal Colour Trophy turns 60, The Coterie goes session and Francesco Group celebrates

EDITOR

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ADAM WOOD

RICHARD PHILLIPART

Witness the impressive rise of our It List It Guy 2014

ALISON ROWLEY

DEPUTY EDITOR

EDITORIAL INTERN

BETH DAVIE

ANNA SAMSON

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

ART DIRECTOR

ADVERTISING

NICK JABBAL

LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

GRAEME WHITE

creativeheadmag.com

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DAVID HAMMOND

PUBLISHER

ART

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Creative HEAD Magazine

DOWNLOAD THE APP TO WIN!

We’ve five BaByliss PRO tongs, each worth £50, to give away – only on the free Creative HEAD App! To download, visit creativeheadmag.com/ipad

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

JOANNA ANDERSEN

WIN!

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk

@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

22/06/2015 15:02

0800 781 0936 www.balmainhair.com/ukwebshop @balmainhairuk

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THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

Anna-Marie Solowij

The edit

CREATIVE HEAD

19,20_News Jul/Aug.indd 1

Karly Whittaker

Johnnie Sapong

SALES OF HAIRCARE PRODUCTS for British men are projected to reach £68 million in 2019, proving the boom in male grooming is far from over.

According to research conducted by Mintel, sales have increased by two per cent in the past year to £60m, despite the number of product launches targeted at men declining by 46 per cent. This growth is up from £59 million in 2013.

Mintel cites a greater interest in trends as the source of the continued growth. The study comes right after London Collections: Men S/S16, which enjoyed one of its biggest seasons, as one in five men say that it’s important to follow the latest hair trends, rising to more than one-third among 16-to-24-year-olds.

Andrew Cannon, owner of barbershop brand Ruffians, said: “There is certainly a link between fashion trends, hair trends and grooming products – it has become common nature for a typical man to care about his appearance as much as a typical woman would.”

En Route Hair and Beauty in West Yorkshire has seen a massive growth in male grooming. Lauren Tudor, the salon’s senior stylist, said: “The beard trend kicked in and it really pushed men into hair salons.

We saw increased interest in haircare products and requests for advice on how to maintain beards.

Men’s hairstyles have also got more interesting with undercuts, wedges, topknots and the man-bun.”

Neil Moodie

MEN’S HAIRCARE SALES TO HIT £68M BY 2019

Judgment day CREATIVE HEAD received hundreds of entries to this year’s Most Wanted and It List competitions, but only a select few have gone on to secure a place at the finals. Over the course of two days, entries were pored over by dozens of judges, including stellar stylists Neil Moodie, Johnnie Sapong, Adam Reed, James Galvin and Abby and Karly Whittaker, ShortList’s Mandy Pang, BeautyMART’s Anna-Marie Solowij and Millie Kendall MBE, and co-founder of Handbag.com, Nancy Cruickshank.

The Most Wanted and It List Grand Final takes place on Monday 7 September at London’s Natural History Museum and will be hosted by Jack Whitehall.

For tickets, call 01434 610940.

IT SOLD OUT just three weeks after it was first released in 2014, now Cloud Nine’s The White Touch is back for one summer only. Clients have until end of August to scoop them up, so get them in your salon, quick!

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23/06/2015 10:34

THE ATELIER

This summer I’ll be back in LA to shoot Lana Del Rey’s new music video and I’ll be busy at Studio Society, a photographic studio I co-own, preparing for some exciting projects and experimenting with headpieces using different materials. I’m also hoping to squeeze in a holiday to Cuba!

JASON HALL

JASON HALL HAIRDRESSING

The team is gathering for a training day having been inspired by the LC:M runway looks. We’re shooting client videos in our own Creative Hub for our YouTube channel, and I’m continuing my work with photographer Lee Howell on an avant-garde concept that will feature as an art exhibit in Edinburgh.

CHARLOTTE MENSAH

HAIR LOUNGE

We’ll be hosting our first Curly Hair workshop to help clients manage their curls at home. As well as flying to Barbados for a hair assignment, I’ll be planning the looks for a forthcoming show in the US and shooting a collection for my product range, which is launching later this year.

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WHAT WE FOUND AT LC:M

“IF AIN’T BROKE, DON’T FIX IT” was the main message at London Collections: Men S/S16 as show after show revealed men’s hair that was left to do whatever it did naturally, only slightly tamed. Cos Sakkas for Toni&Guy created individual looks for each model at Henry Holland that suited their personality rather than a particular trend, while John Vial for Fudge Professional created effortless, glistening locks for James Long. The natural look was taken one step further

by Fudge at Belstaff and by Wella Professionals at Christopher Raeburn, both referencing explorers with hair mussed up while trekking the desert or jungle. Overall, while men’s hair is still on the longer side, it is getting shorter and messily mussed up, as seen at Richard James, where Anthony Rawlings for Unite created dishevelled, raffish hair.

MAKING WAVES AMBASSADORS REVEALED EVANGELINE BARRETT from Blondz Hair and Colin McAndrew from Medusa Hair (both pictured) are the new Wella UK & Ireland UNICEF Making Waves ambassadors. The pair will travel to Vietnam to teach hair and life skills to vulnerable young people aged between 14 and 17.

UPDATE: Toni&Guy East Grinstead’s David Ackroyd and Chopp’s Joe Kinnerman have also been selected as ambassadors for the charity.

They will travel to Romania in August.

GIVE BACK!

Incentivise staff with this exclusive designer bag, created by Wella Professionals and PPQ – there’s one for every Wella salon!

New ghd platinum goes on tour HAIR TOOL BRAND ghd hit the road for a number of pop-up styling events across the UK to celebrate the launch of its new styler. The ghd platinum uncovered tour visited London, Edinburgh, Manchester and Birmingham, hosting almost 1,000 hairdressers at a series of styling sessions.

Each session saw 75 stylists style models using ghd platinum with mentoring by ghd UK education ambassador Ken Picton, who showed what the styler could do.

Images courtesy of Fudge Professional, Toni&Guy, Unite and Wella Professionals

ANNA COFONE

Richard James

What July and August have in store for...

Henry Holland

AHEAD

Belstaff

MY months

Christopher Raeburn

#CHedit

DANIEL JORDAN LANDS UNITE DIRECTOR ROLE Daniel Jordan has been unveiled as the new Unite European art director. The session stylist has been with the company since it launched in the UK, but his new role will see him aim to deliver the brand’s mission statement – ‘to make the hairdresser’s life easier’ – to Unite’s European partners.

WIN! A TICKET TO SEE DAVINES HAIR ON STAGE Taking place at Central Saint Martins in London’s Granary Square on Sunday 13 September, Hair on Stage is led by Davines’ artistic director, Angelo Seminara, the Allilon Education Team and the World Style Contest UK finalists. To be in with a chance of winning one of five tickets to the event, simply visit creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

23/06/2015 16:27

GI V E YOU R CL I E N T S T H E BROW S T H EY DE SERV E Charge from £25 for every brow treatment and get access to the complimenting Make Up by HD Brows retail range. Training starts from £995 + VAT

084 4 801 30 63 | hdbrows.com

B RO

UG

HT

TO

G I B AIR H DO!100 SALONS YO U

BY L

AYE RE

ONE BIG NIGHT THURSDAY

DONLINE.COM

24 SEPTEMBER

Throw open your salon doors to the public for a unique “experience” evening filled with fun, education, product testing, hair DIYs and stylist expertise.

It’s the biggest hair party ever to take place in salons – and we want you to be part of it!

What clients can expect:

The benefits to you:

● To learn new hair tricks

● Increased client loyalty

● Blow-dry tutorials

● Consumers excited about your salon

● To trial new products ● Trend masterclasses ● Professional advice

● Goody bags with free products

● Retail sales on the night

● A chance to show off your skills ● Local press profile

● Exposure on a national level

A UNIQUE LIVE EVENT BROUGHT TO YOU BY

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L BY BROUGHT TO YOU

E AY

RE

DO

BIG HAIR DO!

NL

INE

.CO

#BIGHAIRDO 100 SALONS. ONE BIG NIGHT THURSDAY 24 SEPTEMBER

M

Get involved!

Sign up now for £75

You’ll be sent a Big Hair Do pack containing: 1 Big Hair Do guide – everything you need to know about how to organise and promote your Big Hair Do 2 Big Hair Do window stickers 10 Big Hair Do team badges 50 Big Hair Do goody bags

Sign up now at creativeheadmag.com/store Only 100 salons can participate – first come, first served!

LAYERED'S BIG HAIR DO IS SPONSORED BY

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22/06/2015 14:57

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL is unveiling a new line-up that promises to have a huge impact on professional haircare. Meet Pro Fiber, a three-pronged, long-lasting attack on dull and needy hair that recharges a client’s in-salon treatment after every wash at home. L’Oréal scientists have created a repairing and recharging molecule called Aptyl 100, which combines Silane to strengthen and cationic polymers to work on the hair’s exterior to give it a shiny, healthy boost. Science bit over; now choose from Revive, Recover or Restore – each line-up contains a shampoo, conditioner, mask and a leave-in treatment. What starts at the backwash can now truly be reactivated at home – an exciting story for salon retail!

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

RRP FROM £12.99 0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

IT’S ALL ABOUT… CURLS Get curly-haired clients to join in with the co-cleansing trend with the sulphate-free and low lather formula Be Curly Co-Wash from Aveda.

Say so long to stickiness and wave goodbye to weight, this Curl Protect & Style thermo-active spray from La Biosthétique is the perfect styler for curls!

Surf’s up dude, with beach hair’s new BFF from Bumble and bumble, the salt-inoil Surf Infusion. Just shake it to wake it…

RRP £17.50 0870 034 2380

RRP £14.50 01296 611731

RRP £21.60 0808 281 0234

aveda.co.uk

biosthetique.co.uk

bumbleandbumble.co.uk

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CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2015 15:42

505003 OSMO Launch Creative Head FP 285x220mm OUTLINED.indd 1

15/06/2015 09:45

#CHedit With Joico’s Hair Shake, a liquid-topowder finishing texturiser, you’ll get versatile, rich-yetairy texture, grip and volume. Sold!

RRP £15.95

0845 071 2326

Beauty & Brains Volume Shampoo from Pimp resurrects dull hair – group it with the Conditioner and Volume Spray for added oomph.

RRP £16.50 EACH SALES@FBILONDON.CO.UK

joicoeurope.com

Summer blondes will thank you for suggesting Silverising Violet Protect and Tone Styler from revamped Osmo.

RRP £8.80 SALES@OSMO.UK.COM osmo.uk.com

fbilondon.co.uk COLOUR CLOSE-UP

Quinoa isn’t just healthy for your insides; it helps lock in colour for up to nine weeks.

Find it in Ultimate Color Repair from Paul Mitchell.

RRP FROM £7.75 0845 659 0011 paul-mitchell.co.uk

We’re all for a bit of cool rosé in summer, so imagine our delight when Schwarzkopf Professional unveiled the shade as part of its BlondMe range. You’ll find it alongside the Warm Gold tone in new services Shimmering Lights and Pastel Lights. Both subtly blend different blonde tones for a refined golden glow. Shimmer Lights catches the light on darker base colours for a dazzling effect, while Pastel Lights defines paler blondes in soft tones for a fresher take. Clients will love the lighter side of life…

IN-SALON SERVICE 01442 278000

IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 601 4861 salon-services.com

Satisfy your candy crush with the new limited edition candy floss-coloured Tangle Teezer.

RRP £11.60 020 7274 6128

schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk

Wholesaler Salon Services is unveiling premium own-label brand S Professional, with everything from grips to foil machines included.

A one-stop shop!

Want intense colour and glass-like shine without a commitment?

Opt for new Deepshine Demi from Rusk.

tangleteezer.com

Whether clients want explosive volume or sleek shine, Sebastian Professionals Eruptek and Resintek have got it covered.

RRP £26.50 EACH 01202 595700

New from Fudge Professional, offer polisher Structure Wax to the boys and reformulated blowdry bestie Gloss for the girls.

RRP WAX £12.45, GLOSS £12.95 020 7845 6333 fudge.com

wella.com

SALON PRICE FROM £2.99 0845 601 4861 salon-services.com

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2015 15:19

THE ART OF COLOURING EXPOSÉ with Max Eli, International Director of Colour Education at J Beverly Hills J Beverly Hills was created by Juan Juan, celebrity stylist and founder of the Juan Juan Salon, a Beverly Hills landmark in the USA. J Beverly Hills offers a complete range of products for professional salons and its clients that are paraben and sulphate free, which include cleansing, caring, styling & finishing products, a special line for men and a Colour Line featuring 88 intermixable shades. All products contain high quality ingredients infused with argan oil, black pearl, acai berry and aloe vera. Our Colour Line provides an unmatched level of colour intensity, vibrancy and hair condition. This single line concept features demi, semi, and permanent colour options, therefore allowing translucent, opaque or matte all from the same tube. This 5 step formulation guarantees predictable results with up to 100% grey coverage. Join us to learn more about this exciting Colour Line.

MONDAY 28 SEPTEMBER 2015

Macdonald Windsor Hotel

RECEPTION: 10am START: 10.30am ENDS: 4.30pm

23 High Street Windsor Berkshire SL4 1LH

Including: Drinks/snacks 3 course buffet lunch PLUS: FBI London Goody bag!

(Near to Heathrow)

Register online at www.fbilondon.co.uk. Hurry spaces limited!

Or call to book 01753 44 44 44

UK sole distributor for exclusive brands visit www.fbilondon.co.uk

Bringing you an innovative Retail & Colour Line to the UK market for the first time.

#CHedit

CLOSE-UP

JENNY PACKHAM 2016 A HUGE CHUNK of summer business in salons is bridal hair, but stiff chignons and bolt-on buns can get a little, well, same-y. That’s why we loved the Jenny Packham 2016 bridal show in New York, which was all about loose, long hair with a clever kick. The inspiration behind the show was Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. And in

Unite editorial director Kevin Ryan’s work on the hair, the referencing is spot on, bringing Hermia, Helena and Hippolyta to life with some Unite Elevate Mousse, GO365 Hairspray and a flat iron. “We created a halo that has a bit of an edge to it,” said Kevin. It’s a soft yet contemporary finish that will work just as well at a festival as it will down the aisle.

FOR MORE bridal inspiration for your clients, visit layeredonline.com 28

028_Close Up (Jul/Aug) NY.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

23/06/2015 14:23

creativeheadmag.com/shop

WANT IT? SHOP IT! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM BRINGS YOU EXCLUSIVE BRANDS, THE BEST DEALS AND THE CAN’T-LIVE-WITHOUT ESSENTIALS. WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? POWERED BY

EVO HAPPY CAMPERS

NXT POWER PACK

ARGAN PLUS+ UNIQUE 10

Clients can relax in the sun knowing their hair is protected from harmful UV rays with this hard-working, lightweight leave-in moisturiser.

This 1kg tub of high lift dust-free bleaching powder is ideal for busy salons that need to meet the demand for summer blondes.

Moisturise and detangle holiday hangover hair with this nourishing leave-in treatment and detangle spray.

BUY IT! £7.80 SELL IT! £15.65

BUY IT! £11.50

BUY IT! £6.99 SELL IT! £12.95

COLOR WOW ROOT COVER UP RED

HAIRBOND SHAPER HAIRSPRAY

Make sure no redhead has to deal with dreaded roots with this instant cover-up.

Get reinforced shape and structured styles with this extreme hold shaper in a spray.

BUY IT! £14.25 SELL IT! £28.50

BUY IT! £7.50 SELL IT! £14.49

PROCARE CUT AND FOLD FOIL DISPENSER This easy-to-use cut and fold machine is super handy – and for July and August you’ll get free foil, worth £9.99!

BUY IT! £21.95

All prices exclude VAT

Hot right now!

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SHOP CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2015 14:50

BIG IDEA

HAIR PAINTING BY

Hairstory Studio A COUPLE OF DECADES AGO balayage was the first attempt at painting hair to get sunny blonde looks. Today, it’s evolved into ‘hair painting’, putting hair colour exactly where it should be, and those innovative souls at Michael Gordon’s Hairstory Studio have turned it into quite the art form under the brush of colourist Roxie Darling. “It’s far more modern,” she explains. “It’s an entirely creative way of looking at hair and being able to place colour exactly where you want to. It grows out much better, and it more naturally simulates how hair lightens in the sun.” This way of colouring also suits the Hairstory Studio because of the high degree of personalisation. “I work with stylist Wes Sharpton. His method of cutting hair with scissors and a razor works in tandem with the way I paint – we have a certain choreography between us,” adds Roxie. Feeling inspired? Grab your brush and paint a picture.

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#CHedit

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Successful Business Coaching for Salons When you join 3·6·5, you become part of one of the original hairdressing education organisations in the country.

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NO CHANGE = NO CHANGE To make a positive change to your business, call our team on 0845 659 0015 or email us hello@365hair.com visit us www.365hair.com Find us on

at 365 Education

#CHedit Shooting a Mon drianinspi red colle ction with the Sally Montagu e Hair Grou p

Talking trends and Cloud Nine with Marie Claire

Dog in tow as tea m prep s for the 60t h L’O réal Colour Trop hy

Collabo rating with Cloud Nine

In the frame Angel Montague-Sayers lets us into her world as a busy freelance session stylist and art director of the Sally Montague Hair Group SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world?

Tweet us @creativeheadmag

#Alwa ysstylin g

Busy bloggin g

At Lon don Fashion We ek with Clou d Nin e Back to the salon floor

RISING STAR

Why did you want to be a hairdresser?

When I was much younger I was fascinated by imagery, from hair to photography. I came across Desmond Murray, who is one of my inspirations, creating hair and framed with a photographic eye.

Photography became a

Bloggin g brai nsto rm sess ion in Dubai hobby as hairdressing took over my life.

What have been your highlights so far?

Working with a strong group of young hairdressers at Graduate Fashion Week, along with Unite senior art director, Fletch. The experience was priceless.

At the L’Oréal Colour Trophy regional finals in Manchester

Where do you see yourself in 10 years time?

I would love to be respected in session, editorial and campaign styling. Errol Douglas MBE has inspired my career and I hope to one day be on a level with him, really mastering cutting, colouring and hair-up, working on campaigns

and my own projects across the board.

What would be your dream hairdressing gig?

Catwalk hair. I would love to work with Gareth Pugh.

He takes something simple and makes it extraordinary – it would be amazing to glimpse at how his mind works!

NAME: BETTY WESTERMAN AGE: 24 SALON: ENZOROSARIO HAIR DESIGN, GODALMING

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22/06/2015 14:43

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

THE EXPERTS LOVE IT

THE L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PRO FIBER RANGE CAN POWER UP CLIENTS’ HAIR IN-SALON AND AT HOME. BUT DOES IT WORK? THE PROS TELL US…

My clients “often worry

L’Oréal The new “Professionnel “Pro Fiber Pro Fiber results are amazing!

Our clients are always looking for a solution for damaged hair and this is truly going to wow them”

range gives us an opportunity to change the way that the industry talks about and promotes in-salon retail and treatments”

We hadn’t “been able to

“areNottheonly results

MARK WOOLLEY, ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

ALAN EDWARDS, ALAN EDWARDS SALONS

LISA RHEAD, BARBARA DALEY HAIR AND BEAUTY

NICK MALENKO AND ROYSTON BLYTHE, ROYSTON BLYTHE

DYLAN BRADSHAW, DYLAN BRADSHAW

intensive ranges will weigh the hair down.

Pro Fiber can be tailored to their hair and leave it with amazing shine and movement”

say clients can prolong salon treatment effects at home before now. This is a true innovation on the market”

instant, they will also last – that is the innovative part of the L’Oréal Professionnel Pro Fiber range that I am most excited about”

To find out more about the L’Oréal Professionnel Pro Fiber range, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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#CHedit

Inside story THE LOUNGE, TRURO

Celebrating its 10th birthday, Cornish salon The Lounge has undergone something of a reinvention under the watchful eye of owner Marc Sampson. A noticeable source of inspiration is artist Ben Allen, who has created work for Vans, Jamie Oliver and Sir Richard Branson. “It gave me a great starting point and really everything else worked around the art,” explains Marc.

Salon basins, styling units and chairs are by Olymp, and the reception area is a real head turner, with a desk from Poland and an amazing oversized light bulb feature. If you’re feeling peckish, fresh popcorn is served to clients while colours are processed.

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EGO HAIR DESIGN INVERNESS

A new ‘preening pod’ is the highlight of this Scottish salon’s makeover!

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THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE

THE SALON

CHRIS GUNBY

CRÈME HAIR AND BEAUTY Facebook is such an important tool for rural salons (we’re in Rutland), the more personal and engaging you make your content, the more people will relate to it. We love posting before and after images and product and beauty offers as it’s a way of reaching out to potential customers around you and making your services feel more available to them. We showcase everything we do on social media to make our customers feel like they can get to know our team and stay involved with us. We also love to connect with charities – it’s the perfect way to organise something fun and get the community involved with the salon in some way while helping a great cause! We have some great relationships with other local businesses in the town and we get them involved with charity work by selling tickets and donating raffle prizes.

We also sponsor our local under-14s football team.

YOU’VE GOT A BRILLIANT SALON, BUT YOU’RE BASED IN A RURAL OR QUIET LOCATION. HOW DO YOU EFFECTIVELY PROMOTE YOUR BRAND AND ENTICE NEW CLIENTS?

KH HAIR IN the Midlands has a mix of both town centre locations and salons in more rural villages. Managing director Darren Messias is aware that some salons are in areas that have populations of only one or two thousand where footfall is minimal.

“Holding in-salon events and open evenings are a great way to not only maintain contact with existing customers but also provide an opportunity to engage with new clients,” he says. “These evenings have become part of the fabric of the local community. We have also had great success working with groups such as local slimming groups, the Women’s Institute and so on, who can introduce salons to their members and even invite stylists to their meetings for events and styling workshops, exposing the brand to a new audience.”

As many will be aware, the traditional small town high street is still facing a challenging time. Sharon Bridgen, who runs SLB PR, recommends working with other businesses to help cross-promote your salon and services to new clients. “For example, you could team up with a local florist or wedding/event venue to offer a special discount in return for offering a promotion for them to your clients,” she says.

If you feel isolated, using social media to promote your services can help create that wider sense of community. “Upload images of the great styles you create in the salon and

tie in advice with seasonal events,” advises Sharon. “Recommend retail products for summer holidays and suggest a few easy styles to take your client from beach to bar.”

If your salon is located in a rural area then you need to make yourself stand out to retain loyal local clients while attracting clients from adjoining areas. “Create a unique service,” says Gary Taylor from Edward and Co in Brighouse, West Yorkshire. “Encourage strong local connections or play to your strengths through direct advertising and marketing.”

“I run a bespoke service called Hair Peace for women with medical hair loss. Creating this locally unique service has attracted more clients from surrounding areas,” he adds.

“It’s important to ensure that every penny spent has a return. Spending money on payand-pray methods, such as local newspaper advertising, isn’t necessary,” argues Steven Gunnip, director at training consultancy Salon Evolution. “Focus instead on building your word-of-mouth reputation, keeping the salon team inspired and paying attention to the little details, as this will all go towards insuring your destination salon has the reputation of being the best in the Get noticed area, all while being profitable.”

The no-nonsense guide to PR & marketing

Make sure everyone’s talking about

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THE BIG THREE

THERE IS A TRIO OF INCENTIVES TO PROMOTE YOUR BUSINESS – WHICH IS BEST FOR YOU, ASKS KEN WEST KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

LAST MONTH I asked you to consider the way you use the most expensive area of your salon to promote your business. Zone A, the area behind your windows, should be your primary weapon in drawing in new business.

But what other tools do you have to entice new clients through your door, and what can you also offer to those wonderful clients that already love you? ‘Special offers’ is the phrase that immediately springs into most minds, but what should you offer and when and to whom?

Let’s get one thing clear straight away –

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there is no perfect solution. Any form of offer has to be part of an overall marketing strategy.

“What’s that?” some of you may ask. “I just need more bums on seats,” I hear you say. Life is never that simple, as any old bum may not be the answer.

I can remember in the early days of coupon culture, salons were heavily discounting bigticket items such as highlights to entice people in, but many of them never returned. Not because the salons involved and the highlights weren’t good, but because the clients attracted were the wrong type of client. I could be wrong, but a client that is looking to pay £40 for a set of highlights is not the same type of client that will happily pay £100 or more for them. Neither client is ‘bad’, but which one have you designed your business for? Aldi and Waitrose are both great businesses but their marketing strategies are totally different.

Neither is right or wrong… just different.

So, once you have decided on your target market, you can then start thinking about your strategy. Let’s get back to where we started: special offers. These tend to fall into two basic categories – price or added value – but there is a sneaky third category that is often overlooked – exclusivity.

Price: This is fairly obvious; you are offering something cheaper than someone else, which

CREATIVE HEAD

23/06/2015 16:29

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Step back. Take a minute to think and give yourself the best possible chance of making the right decision. could work for you until someone else offers the same thing cheaper than you. Then what do you do? The real challenge is that you must never lose sight of the cost to you of what you are discounting. It costs the same to deliver a £40 set of highlights as it does to deliver a £100 set, so be careful. You also have to consider what I talked about earlier. Are you attracting your target market and what is the perception of your salon in the market?

Added value: Often people confuse the words ‘value’ and ‘cheap’. Some would consider an expensive handbag as great value because of its quality, its individual style, the way it makes its owner feel and the message that it sends out. Some would say that cheap washing up liquid was poor value because of the amount that you have to use. Most people would consider the expression ‘added value’ to mean getting more for your money. So how can you add value to grow your business?

The simplest way is to give people something that they don’t already use for free or minimal extra charge. Buy product X and we will also give you Y, or, buy X and you can have Y as

well for just a few extra pounds. This could be done with services or products, so think outside of the box. It’s a fabulous way of getting clients to try something that hopefully they will love and repurchase.

Exclusivity: This is a type of offer that appeals to a specific and often less priceconscious client. Some people love to be able to attend, buy, or receive something that only a few can have. Invitation-only events, limited edition items or special one-off gifts, all appeal to a certain type of client.

All of these strategies can also be tied to seasons or local events just as we discussed last month when considering your window displays. Imagine having your hair done during Wimbledon fortnight and being given a beautiful small dish with perfect strawberries and a swirl of whipped cream on the top.

Finally, but probably most importantly, never do anything unless you consider these questions: Why are you doing it? Exactly how much will it cost you? And then when your offer is over, exactly what did you achieve?

What did it actually cost? Is it worth repeating?

If you don’t try anything, nothing will happen! However, with determination, vision and hard work, almost anything can happen.

If you are going to do something, do it to the best of your ability.

If you can’t do it to a high standard, then get someone who can!

Be comfortable with yourself and be aware of your actions, your strengths and your weaknesses. I’ve found with this comes a natural confidence and inner contentment. If you can’t laugh at yourself, you shouldn’t laugh at all.

WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com

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#BusinessEdit BUSINESS

barometer

IF YOUR NAME’S NOT DOWN…

AT THE START OF 2015, the UK government rejected a request for all hairdressers to be placed on a compulsory state register, arguing that the move would not guarantee the quality of stylists in the industry. It’s a divisive subject – and one that shows no signs of abating. “Hairdressers should be state registered,” argues Victoria Stevens from Tops Hair Salon & Beauty in Melksham. ”It’s scary that people can qualify to NVQ standard and can’t even hold scissors correctly. If it becomes law, people will take notice.” Any registration comes with a cost: “You have to bear in mind the younger stylists may struggle to afford it,” says Sara Holmes from Cheltenham’s Stuart Holmes.

“It’s just another cost for something that doesn’t mean much,” argues Gary Farr from Anthony James All About Hair in Halifax. And at the end of the day, how much pressure is there from concerned clients? “We’re not registered yet, but not one of my clients has asked me so I don’t know what difference it would make,” admits Asti Martin, from Martini’s Pamper Parlour in Braintree.

“Clients are only interested in professional staff and good feedback,” adds Laura Bull from Lowestoft’s Code Hair Consultants. “People can tell between good and bad salons as they can with, say, a good or bad restaurant.”

6% 64% REGISTRATION THINK STATE

BELIEVE STATE REGISTRATION IS A GOOD IDEA

HAS IMPROVED STANDARDS SO FAR

0%

OF RESPONDENTS BELIEVE CLIENTS CARE ABOUT REGISTRATION

HAD AT LEAST ONE A TOTAL OF 24% OF RESPONDENTS ONLY 6% HAD ALL MEMBER OF STAFF REGISTERED, BUT OF THEIR STAFF ON THE REGISTER

MAY 2015

How was business in May 2015 compared with April 2015?

How was business in May 2015 compared with May 2014?

DECLINING STEADY

12%

DECLINING

24%

12%

STEADY GROWING

76%

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12%

GROWING

64%

Top tips FOR THE RECORD? REGISTRATION HAS BEEN a point of discussion for many years, but now some are calling to create a compulsory state register for practising hairdressers in the UK. In the salon, some of you have had to correct mistakes made because the client put their faith in someone who wasn’t quite up to the job. But is government regulation the way to raise standards and eradicate poor practices that can leave customers with damaged hair?

Several large industries have some type of register – by putting stylists on a state register, proponents hope there will be a guaranteed standard of competency across the industry. However, there is a huge difference between being a competent hairdresser and a great hairdresser.

If a hairdresser was found to be incompetent then they could in theory be struck off the register – preventing them from continuing their career.

How a register would work and be enforced remains to be seen – what qualifies someone to become registered and how would it be verified? Comparisons can also be drawn with other regulated industries that still struggle with rogue traders and ineffective complaints procedures, despite government regulation.

Whatever the outcome may be and whether you are for or against it, we can all agree that we want to provide the best service possible to our clients ensuring that we are the best that we can be.

Gregory Saunders, salon and spa consultant at Premier Software

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE

CREATIVE HEAD

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David Cameron after Tories’ election victory

#BusinessEdit

DRINKS LAW CHANGES

Salons are being warned that the government is tightening up the laws for businesses that sell or serve alcohol.

From this autumn all alcohol suppliers or wholesalers will have to ensure they are properly accredited with HM Revenue & Customs, which is bringing in a new online accreditation system. Then, from April 2017, any business selling alcohol will need to ensure it is only buying stock from a properly registered wholesaler.

Hairdressers are also being reminded a salon will need two licences to sell alcohol, which can be obtained from your local council. These are a premises licence, which ensures the premises is safe and suitable for the consumption of alcohol, and a personal licence, which ensures there is a “designated premises supervisor” for alcohol sales. This is the case even if the drink is included within a client’s overall service rather than sold separately. The government has more detailed guidance available at gov.uk/alcohol-licensing

SALONS SECRETS SAFE Nearly two-thirds of female clients would be happy to share a secret with their hairdresser, research has revealed.

A survey of more than 2,600 women by the British Association of Beauty Therapy and Cosmetology (Babtac) found 62 per cent agreed they would be prepare to divulge a secret to their stylist.

The research also questioned 1,366 hair stylists and beauty therapists. It found 84 per cent of respondents had been told about an affair by a client, while three-quarters had experienced clients telling them about work-related subjects such as dismissals.

TORIES LAUNCH SMALL BUSINESS ‘MANIFESTO’ FRESH FROM THEIR General Election victory, the Conservatives in May unveiled a small business ‘manifesto’ designed to highlight the key priorities it will be promoting over the next five years.

With chancellor George Osborne also due to be presenting the first Budget of the new majority Tory administration on 8 July, the government has been moving quickly to outline to businesses – and to the hairdressing industry – what they can expect between now and 2020. The centrepiece for small businesses, at least so far, was the inclusion of a new Enterprise Bill within the Queen’s Speech in May. The government has set a target of reducing red tape by £10bn during the next Parliament and to set up a new Small Business Conciliation Service to help settle disputes over late payments.

Other government pledges within the manifesto included the retention of the Employment Allowance, which allows employers to reduce the National Insurance contributions they pay employees, and a pledge to press on with its review of business rates, which is due to report next March. Ministers have also committed themselves to creating three million new apprenticeships over the next five years. More importantly, the government has said it will push on with its “trailblazer” reforms of training, which are creating employer-developed standards and assessment for apprenticeships. Within hairdressing and beauty these standards are set to be introduced either in 2016 or, more probably, in 2017.

Warning over fake beauty products SALONS ARE BEING encouraged to alert clients to the dangers of buying electrical hair stylers, straighteners, make up, perfumes and sun screens over the internet, as they could be fake and potentially highly dangerous.

The City of London Police in May launched an awareness-raising campaign called “Wake Up – Don’t Fake Up” designed to warn the public about the dangers of purchasing fake products over the internet or elsewhere. It has highlighted that counterfeit beauty products in particular are becoming increasingly common and easily available on auction sites, online markets, rogue websites and social media. City of London Police detective superintendent Maria Woodall said: “Many people don’t know about the real dangers counterfeit beauty products pose to their health.”

BRITAIN’S BEST IS BACK! The National Hairdressers’ Federation’s landmark artistic competition is returning for 2015 – and entries are now open! There are 12 categories and the deadline for applications is 6 November. The competition is being held at the Heritage Motor Centre in Gaydon, Warwickshire on 15 November. Full details can be found at britainsbest.me

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 44

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22/06/2015 14:29

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12/06/2015 17:19:32

COLOUR THIS ISSUE, STEPHEN AND LESLEY TALK COLOUR CORRECTION; LIGHTENING, DARKENING AND CHANGING TONE FOR ALL CLIENTS. Exclusively in Creative HEAD, Colour Decoded is set to crack the colour code. The dynamic duo of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Global Colour Ambassador Lesley Jennison and Head of Education and Events Stephen McDowell are on hand to guide you through all things colour for 2015. With helpful hints and tips from our colour gurus in partnership with Schwarzkopf’s leading trend collections and product innovation, Colour Decoded is guaranteed to arm you with all the information you need to be on trend and deliver every client’s dream colour.

FIX IT!

Stephen McDowell As head of technical for Schwarzkopf Professional, Stephen is the creative force responsible for training, inspiring and educating stylists across the UK and Ireland.

Lesley Jennison Her radical vision and flair for colour took her from Vidal Sassoon apprenticeship to global recognition and has made her the ‘go to’ name on every celebrity’s lips for unsurpassed colour genius.

THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO BE AWARE OF IS THE UNDERLYING TONE WITHIN THE NATURAL HAIR. DARKER HAIR MAY CONTAIN A WARMER/RED UNDERTONE WHILST LIGHTER HAIR MAY CONTAIN A MORE GOLDEN/YELLOW UNDERTONE.

LIGHTENING An orange undertone may be present in a natural base 6.0 (dark blonde). Should a light, cool, Nordic blonde be required you would need to use a blue ash tone when lightening to neutralise this warmth.

Remember that opposite tones on the colour wheel neutralise each other. Therefore if a warm honey blonde is required, any orange undertone in the hair can be used to achieve this shade whilst working with a more neutral colour.

HOW TO TACKLE LIGHTENING YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR: VIRGIN HAIR • Bleach and tone: Pre-lightening the hair to achieve maximum lift and then adding a tone of your choice will allow you to personalise many blonde possibilities

DARKENING • On previously lightened hair the undertone has been removed. Prior to darkening the hair this undertone will need to be replaced.

• Schwarzkopf IGORA expert mousse is an excellent way to replace lost undertone or pre-pigment the hair. Use this easy guide to decide whether you need to add a yellow, orange or red undertone:

for your clients, whether working with a conventional ash to achieve cool tones or brightening things up with a pearlescent shade such as Pastel Lavender, Pastel Mint or Pastel Amber, a multitude of colour possibilities can be achieved.

• Highlifting Tint: From a natural base of 6-0 dark blonde highlifting tints from IGORA royal can be used. Highlifting tints lift and deposit tone in one single application. A selection of warm, neutral and cool tones can be found within the IGORA royal highlifting 12 line. Using the colour wheel and the target shade, choose the appropriate colour to meet your needs.

PRE-COLOURED HAIR • A gentle cleanse will remove unwanted tone from the hair. Mix 1 scoop of Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond bleaching powder + 2 scoops

of a Schwarzkopf BC gentle shampoo of your choice.

• When depth and tone needs to be removed from the hair a more intense mixture may be used. Simply mix 1 scoop of Schwarzkopf Igora Vario Blond bleaching powder + 1 scoop of 6% developer + 1 scoop of water + 1 scoop of Schwarzkopf BC shampoo of your choice.

NB. Both cleansing procedures have a visual development time. Remove thoroughly from the hair when desired result is achieved. sable to LES LEY ’S TIP : It is advi prior to lightening

perform a strand test be to demonstrate how much lift can the show also will test d achieved. A stran underlying warmth within the hair.

> When darkening to a base 8 to 9, use -55 gold extra to replace lost warmth. > Going darker on bases 5 to 7; -77 copper extra can be used to replace an orange undertone. > When darkening on bases 1 to 4 where a red undertone is required -88 red extra should be used.

CHANGING TONE When a client wishes to change the tonal direction of her hair, first identify the unwanted tone. Using your colour wheel, identify which tone will neutralise the offending shade.

For example too much red in the hair can be neutralised by applying a shade on top of the existing colour which contains a matt green tone.

If the unwanted tone is particularly strong it can be removed from the hair by using the gentle cleansing technique mentioned previously.

V I S I T U S AT S K P - E L I T E . C O M / C O L O U R - D E C O D E D

er the hair may be porous, LES LEY ’S TIP : Rememb ing a cleansing technique especially after perform can be evened out mixed with pre lightener. Porosity using an equaliser by hair the of rest throughout the shade try going 1 et spray. When choosing a final targ will ensure that this red, desi than er to 2 shades light the final shade is not too dark.

Lesley & StephxenX x

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

Fast track to

fabulous IGORA COLOR10 from Schwarzkopf Professional makes express colour services easy for your time-starved clients

FROM DAWN TO DUSK, we are constantly on the move. Whether it’s commuting, rushing to a meeting, socialising with friends or heading to the gym, our time is precious. Clients want to look good but they want to look good in a hurry. So what if you could offer your clients a quick colour service that fits both their lifestyle and their expectations of quality?

Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA COLOR10 delivers all the vibrancy and shine of a traditional permanent colour, but only takes 10 minutes to develop.

Its six new fashion shades are perfect for anyone looking for an instant update, while four extra coverage shades are ideal for mature clients who are keen to get a quick touch up.

So how can you take advantage of the new IGORA COLOR10 express colour service? Well it’s a great way to upgrade clients that have just come in for a cut but clearly need a colour refresh. Who could say no to a quick root touch-up in just 10 minutes? You can also promote the services as a lunchtime treat for busy, working women, as well as for clients that arrive too late for their appointment or just before closing. And let’s not forget the men: the IGORA COLOR10 Secret Service provides quick, soft grey blended results that takes just five to 10 minutes at the backwash.

Different and efficient, IGORA COLOR10 offers you a new and flexible way to maximise your salon and client time with no compromise on quality – and about time, too.

For more details, call 01442 278000, visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom

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COOL AS ICE

CLIENTS CAN COOL DOWN THIS SUMMER WITH PRETTY ICE CREAM SHADES FROM THE RUSK DEEPSHINE DIRECT RANGE festivals as flowery headbands, PRETTY, PASTEL-HUED hair is now as much a part of music was spotted at Coachella with a denim shorts and Florence and the Machine. Jourdan Dunn and we’re hooked on Hilary beautiful lilac hue, Kylie Jenner rocked a turquoise blue ombre .

Duff’s Instagram feed as she swaps one pastel hue for another cream cool mint bob. Doing ice J’s Jessie is t But one of our favourite looks of the momen hair colour of the summer – the us given away with her signature dark locks, the singer has and clients will be coveting it. jewelled tones, offer them For clients that want to try this pistachio shade and other muted, last up to 20 washes, colours RUSK Deepshine Direct. Available in eight vibrant shades that ed with one can also be mixed together to create bespoke effects or combin so you can of RUSK’s Deepshine Colour Conditioners to soften the tone, achieve the exact look your clients want.

KATIE’S TIP! RUSK ambassador Katie Mulcahy, says: “The best thing about “RUSK Deepshine to RUSK Deepshine Direct colours are their versatility and ease Direct colours are so right colours two apply even can you intense that when I want apply. No developer required, to like I bleed. won’t they and to achieve a softer next to each other on a strand of hair finish.” cooler tone, I apply it to smudge colours together for a more muted and

damp hair”

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION HAIR RUSK UK ambassador Katie Mulcahy. MAKE-UP Jaimee Thomas. STYLING Kim Howells. PHOTOGRAPHY Paul Scala

MAKE IT MINT!

KATIE MULCAHY REVEALS HOW TO CREATE THE COOL MINT HUE FOR YOUR CLIENTS‌ STEP ONE Prelighten hair if required.

STEP TWO Mix together RUSK Deepshine Direct Teal with RUSK Deepshine Direct Icy White and RUSK Deepshine Colour Care Hydrate Conditioner to create the mint colour. The more conditioner you add, the lighter the tone.

STEP THREE Apply colour around the hairline first.

STEP FOUR Divide hair into two sections, working fast as the colour develops quickly.

STEP FIVE Comb through to the ends and then leave to develop .

Keep checking until you are happy with the colour.

STEP SIX Wash out using your preferred RUSK Shampoo and Conditioner then style as required.

RUSK is available exclusively from Salon Services. For

more details, call 0845 601 4861 or visit salon-services.com 51

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15

YEARS

TEAM AWARDS BEST SALON TEAM SPONSORED BY

ALISON STEWART HAIRDRESSING Kirkcaldy THE CHAPEL Tunbridge Wells EN ROUTE HAIR & BEAUTY Wakefield RUFFIANS London SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY Wallingford

BEST LOCAL SALON SPONSORED BY

BARBARA DALEY HAIR & BEAUTY Liverpool EMMA BROWN HAIR Leicester GEORGEʼS HAIRDRESSING Leicester JAS HAIR GROUP Salisbury LARA JOHNSON LIFESTYLE Swansea

MEET THE MOST WANTED FINALISTS ENTRIES TO CREATIVE HEAD’S 15TH ANNUAL MOST WANTED AWARDS HAVE BEEN ASSESSED AND THE JUDGES HAVE SPOKEN. HERE ARE THE 60 RED-HOT NAMES RAISING THE BAR IN UK HAIRDRESSING. CONGRATULATIONS TO THE 2015 FINALISTS! creativeheadmag.com

@creativeheadmag #MWIT15

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE SPONSORED BY

THE CHAPEL Tunbridge Wells HEADFIRST Leeds MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR Leicester PAUL EDMONDS, London TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING Portsmouth

BEST NEW SALON SPONSORED BY

ANDERSONʼS HAIR Glasgow DUCK & DRY London HARE & BONE London MYLA AND DAVIS London (Brixton) TIM SCOTT WRIGHT @ THE HAIR SURGERY Stourbridge

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS CREATIVE TALENT

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

JAMIE AND SALLY BROOKS Brooks & Brooks CRAIG CHAPMAN Craig Chapman

ALISON ASBURY for Salon Central Nottingham LEE BROWN for #HAIRHOUR

JOHANNA CREE BROWN Trevor Sorbie

PHIL JACKSON for Club Bravo

SPONSORED BY

SPONSORED BY

RICHARD PHILLIPART The Boutique Atelier

LEE STAFFORD for Lee Stafford Education

ANGELO VALLILLO Zullo & Holland

MARK WOOLLEY for The Electric Dispensary

BUSINESS THINKER

SESSION STYLIST

SPONSORED BY

KATYA DAVIES Myla and Davis

ADAM REED ANTHONY TURNER

CAROLINE SANDERSON Ego Hair Design

GUIDO

JOHNNY SECKINGTON Seckingtons

JAMES PECIS

TONY WOOD Tony Wood Hairdressing

SYD HAYES

COLOUR EXPERT

HAIR ICON

JAYSON GRAY Toni&Guy

DARREN AMBROSE

SIOBHAN JONES Headmasters KATIE MULCAHY Dale Hairdressing ABBY SMITH D&J Ambrose JOHN SPANTON Trevor Sorbie

SPONSORED BY

ERROL DOUGLAS MBE MARK HAYES MARK LEESON SAM MCKNIGHT GEORGE NORTHWOOD ADAM REED

HAIR TREND SPONSORED BY

ANGELO SEMINARA EUGENE SOULEIMAN JAMIE STEVENS

ADRIANO DʼASTOLO

MAI HA Trevor Sorbie GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG Hooker & Young KARINE JACKSON Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty

07/09/2015 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM LONDON

CALL TO BOOK TICKETS

Radio Hair Salon and Gallery ERROL DOUGLAS MBE Errol Douglas

Hairdressing’s most stylish gathering

SPONSORED BY

JULIA GAUDIO Elajé Hair & Beauty

SPONSORED BY

STYLE Celebration STARS

PRESENTED BY

01434 610940

THE RISING STAR DANIEL ADAMS George’s Hairdressing TOMMY CUNLIFFE Ruffians JESS GARTLAND Myla and Davis GIANNA POULLOU Ena Salon NATASA STYLIANOU George’s Hairdressing

WHO’S ON THE SHORTLIST? Talented, go-getting, aged 30 and under and now, with a trophy in their sights.

It’s time… Meet the finalists of Creative HEAD’s 2015 It List Awards!

Presented by

THE FASHIONISTA MATTHEW CURTIS Matthew Curtis Hair Design CYNDIA HARVEY Freelance hair stylist GIAP LE Toni&Guy JONATHAN TURNER Hooker & Young KIM RANCE Freelance hair stylist

THE VISIONARY MIKIO AIZAWA Brooks & Brooks KAYLEIGH DEVRIES Craig Chapman Hair Design

Sponsored by

CASEY COLEMAN Ocean Hairdressing MARLON HAWKINS Brooks & Brooks JONATHAN TURNER Hooker & Young

creativeheadmag.com

@creativeheadmag #MWIT15

THE ENTREPRENEUR SOPHIE LAIDLAW Wonderland LEE NASH-JONES NashWhite Hairdressing TONY WALMSLEY Anthony John Salons PAUL WATTS Paul Watts Hairdressing KY WILSON The Social

THE IT GIRL ROSIE BINNS Ethos Hairdressing FREYA HAINES Electric Hairdressing SOPHIE LAIDLAW Wonderland KIM RANCE Freelance hair stylist

Grand Final

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST 07/09/2015

NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM LONDON

CALL TO BOOK TICKETS

01434 610940 SINGLE TICKET £240 TABLE OF 10 £2,200 LIMITED NUMBER OF VIP TABLES AVAILABLE

LEIGHANNE REGAN Indy Hairdressing

THE IT GUY LUKE BENSON D&J Ambrose TOM GILLING Taylor Taylor London DAFYDD RHYS THOMAS Ken Picton Salon JONATHAN TURNER Hooker & Young KY WILSON Percy & Reed

JACK’S BACK! YOUR HOST, JACK WHITEHALL @JACKWHITEHALL

FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...

£52

A GIFT WORTH MORE THAN

FOR EVERY SUBSCRIBER*

CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 FROM THE LA BIOSTHÉTIQUE CHEVEUX LONGS RANGE, YOU’LL RECEIVE A LUXURY SPA OIL AND SILKY SPA SHAMPOO, ALONGSIDE A LA BIOSTHÉTIQUE BEAUTY BAG, WORTH £52.75 ONE LUCKY SUBSCRIBER WILL RECEIVE A LUXURY LA BIOSTHÉTIQUE SET, INCLUDING BAIN DE LUXE AND MASQUE DE LUXE IN A BEAUTIFUL BLACK GIFT BOX, WORTH £97.75

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AND FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MAGAZINE OR CALL 01434 610935

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*For full terms and conditions, visit creativeheadmag.com. All product prices stated are RRP

YOU’LL ENJOY...

22/06/2015 16:04

EDIN

BURG

H EV

ENT!

Creative HEAD in conversation with…

SAM MCKNIGHT THE COTERIE IN EDINBURGH MONDAY 13 JULY 2015 7pm until 10pm Dovecot Studios, 10 Infirmary Street, Edinburgh EH1 1LT

TICKETS £30 EACH

INCLUDING DRINKS, CANAPÉS AND A BABYLISS PRO GOODY BAG (COTERIE MEMBERS GO FREE) BOOK ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie CALL TO BOOK 01434 610933

Layered is looking for its next salon star!

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Images courtesy of Aveda, Cloud Nine, Davines, L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI and Toni&Guy

HOME LOVE HOW-TO TEST FIX WATCH WIN SHOP

23/06/2015 09:53

Win a place with the

Layered Style Stars

Calling all hair stylists! Do you love talking hair?

Are you passionate about styling it? Then we need you…

Who are Layered Style Stars?

How to enter:

What do you win?

Send your video file via WeTransfer to enquiries@layeredonline.com or post the file on a USB memory stick to:

Our sister title Layered is launching Layered Style Stars, a group of vibrant and passionate stylists who love being in front of the camera and showing people how to style their hair. The chosen Style Stars will share video blogs, tips, tricks and behind the scenes action from life as an expert stylist. Sound like something you want to be part of? Then enter immediately!

An exclusive opportunity to share your expertise with consumers across the UK! We’ll keep you busy with hair missions backstage, on shoots and in the salon, which will be shared with Layered’s readers. It’s great publicity for you and your salon.

It’s simple! Just send us a one-minute video using your smartphone or tablet showing us why you should be in the Layered Style Stars. Your video should include footage of you doing hair and talking to the camera.

This is your time to shine!

Layered, Alfol Ltd, 21 Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London N1 6ND Don’t forget to include your name, salon (if relevant) email and social media handles!

The deadline is 13 July – hurry, get your entry in now!

For more details, visit creativeheadmag.com/style-stars

What are you waiting for?

layeredonline.com @layeredonline #StyleSquad

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23/06/2015 09:53

ILLUSTRATE YOUR INDIVIDUAL CREATIVITY – IT’S TIME TO SAY STYLE, SPEAK EIMI WITH WELLA PROFESSIONALS YOU’RE NOT PART of the ‘curl up and dye’ set; you stand apart. You scour diverse cultures, eclectic styles, engaging personalities and urban trends for endless inspiration. This shapes you, your style, your work, your YOU, unique and magnificent.

The new EIMI styling range from Wella Professionals wants you to share your style through a language of individuality, enabling you to express yourself and your art through the line-up of 26 style essentials, adored by session stylist extraordinaire Eugene Souleiman.

And we want you to share with us and EIMI what makes you, well, you – what’s your mission? What excites you?

What drives your creativity? Say it, speak it, style it on the page opposite. Write an inspirational quote or thought, maybe even a dream-worthy doodle, and tweet a photo of you holding your answer to @creativeheadmag and @wellapro with the hashtag #SpeakEIMI. Show us your individual style, teach us your take on life, shout out what makes your heart beat faster.

Our favourite five will win a stash of EIMI products and feature on creativeheadmag.com and in a future issue of Creative HEAD. There are no wrong answers, just do it before 31 July.

Come on, let’s go and have some fun…

Want to be one of the creative salons that speak EIMI? Call Wella Professionals on 01202 595700 or visit wella.com

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

#SpeakEIMI CREATIVE HEAD

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Fancy an upgrade?

You can offer clients an upgrade that will help them look and feel better than ever and still grow your colour business, with Wella Professionals’ Couture Colour Service. Here’s how…

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The display Your window display is a prime opportunity to shout about your new Couture Colour Service. Wella Professionals provides beautiful Couture Colour display materials to signal that you are a Couture Colour salon. Keep your display fresh and current, changing it every six to eight weeks to maintain interest, with the focus on Couture Colour.

The call As the first point of contact for your clients, it is essential your receptionist/front of house knows everything about the Couture Colour Service and can introduce this to clients over the phone. When a client calls to book a regular appointment, ask if they have been told about your new Couture Colour Service and explain what this includes and what makes it worth the extra money. From an in-depth, personalised consultation and use of superior products to a free treatment and a luxury salon experience – your clients wont be able to resist.

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

LET’S BE HONEST, if we could, our wardrobes would be full of haute couture clothes. Bespoke style is always going to be better than off-the-rack, but often the price tag makes it a distant dream. While it can’t help you with your wardrobe, Wella Professionals can help you bring a personalised service to your clients’ hair colour. The Couture Colour Service from Wella Professionals is inspired by the bespoke craftsmanship of couture fashion – it’s about offering a tailored and personalised colour for that client.

But how do you persuade your client to upgrade to the service?

The brand has four key areas that you should focus on:

“A client is always going to be happy to pay extra for something that is bespoke, so make sure you exceed their expectations during their visit. A complimentary treatment, serving their favourite drink and really understanding their life through an in-depth consultation will make the service deserving of a higher price tag” DANNY DOWIE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR CLUB MEMBER, CHEYNES HAIRDRESSING

FOR YOUR CLIENTS To celebrate Couture Colour, Wella Professionals has teamed up with fashion designer PPQ to create an exclusive PPQ designer care bag that’s full of Wella Professionals care products. They’re the perfect gift to give to clients as part of the Couture Colour Service, and will see them not only walk out with bespoke hair colour, but a unique bag, too!

The consultation To start your clients on their Couture Colour Journey, offer them an in-depth consultation to demonstrate what their Couture Colour can achieve. Take time to understand what your client needs, their likes, dislikes and hair goals. Create a long-term plan personalised to them and explain how the Couture Colour Service can help achieve their goals. Wella Professionals offers a range of consultation tools to help you create a professional, bespoke consultation, enabling you to craft exquisite colour results tailored to your clients’ hair, skin tone, image and lifestyle.

The event Everyone loves a freebie, especially when food and drinks are thrown into the mix, so why not throw a Colour Couture event? Hold a Couture Colour launch event in your salon for one month and your clients can discover the luxury experience and personalised colour results for themselves.

This will create awareness and excitement for the new service and once your clients have tried it, they won’t want to go back.

U FOR YO

portant ws how im o n k e ls a fession moting th Wella Pro mes to pro o c d it n n ra e hy the b rist is wh hich is w w the colou , a e te ic a rv e to cre Colour S label PPQ n n Couture io lo sh sa fa h h . Eac ed up wit fessionals ro n p a has team e c h th r ic h fo ags, w bag – just clusive b x e designer se e th of ered one will be off ze for ri p a s a d be offere ies who carr the stylist re tu u ost Co out the m s e ervic in Colour S a month.

Upgrade your clients today to the Couture Colour Service and see your colour business take off.

Contact your Wella Professionals account manager, call 01202 595700 or visit wellaprofessionals.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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Scene

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Twiggy

ABACUS HAIR STUDIO of Bewdley, Worcestershire, won the 2015 L’Oreal Colour Trophy at a amazing ceremony marking the event’s 60th anniversary, hosted by TV and radio personality, Lauren Laverne. A series of high-octane hair shows from top names including Adam Reed, Charlie Miller and the 20:20 Colour Collective created a party atmosphere that reverberated through the 1,600-strong audience. Hair colour was presented as never before, in every shade from futuristic ice-blues and mauves to blondes and every hue imaginable. But the highlight of the night was the Trevor Sorbie Art Team presentation, which cleverly showed how ‘ordinary’ references – the lights on an escalator, the reflective strips on a cycling jacket – can be transformed into the extraordinary in the mind of the hairdresser. In this case, the stunning results included latex-clad models resembling sex shop mannequins, beautiful, fierce-looking urban Samurais and futuristic human holograms. What a triumph!

Trevor Sorbie Art Team

GLITTERS

20:20 Colour Collective

All that

Trevor Sorbie Art Team

Trevor Sorbie Art Team

20:20 Colour Collective

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2015 16:17

Adam Reed Electric Hair

Abacus Hair

Adam Reed

Charlie Miller Simon Webster Hair

And the winners are…

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD 2015 First place: Abacus Hair, Bewdley Second place: RMUK, Leeds Third place: Trevor Sorbie, Manchester

The Colour Room

L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE AWARD 2015 The Colour Room, Stockport MIZANI AFRO LOOK AWARD 2015 Simon Webster Hair, Brighton L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY REGIONAL WINNERS 2015 NORTHERN IRELAND: Andrew Mulvenna, Belfast SCOTTISH: Lesley McDonald Hair & Beauty, Troon NORTH WESTERN: Trevor Sorbie, Manchester NORTH EASTERN: RMUK, Leeds EASTERN: Maples of Stamford, Stamford WESTERN: Abacus Hair, Bewdley SOUTHERN: Toni&Guy, Guildford LONDON: Rush, The Strand PEOPLE’S CHOICE AWARD 2015 COLOUR TROPHY: Electric Hair, Liverpool MEN’S IMAGE: Milk Hairdressing, Livingstone

CREATIVE HEAD

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Claire Rothstein

Jonathan De Francesco

SESSION

stars

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WANT TO CATCH Sam McKnight at our Coterie pop-up in Edinburgh? Turn to page 57 to find out more

Joanna McGarry

A THRONG OF GUESTS descended on Hoxton Street Studios in London for Creative HEAD’s very first Coterie: In Session event, a merger of high fashion inspiration and client-friendly styling, sponsored by BaByliss PRO. Associate editor (beauty) of Stylist, Joanna McGarry, was hosting, welcoming session stylist Jonathan De Francesco, who recreated the elegant ponytail he styled as part of Guido’s team for Christian Dior.

Next, celebrity and editorial stylist Claire Rothstein created a glamorous no-heat wave, and told of her ‘less is more’ ethos.

After Jonathan demonstrated his wig cutting techniques to create a shattered silver page boy inspired by Akris, it was back to Claire to work on a Burberry finish. The two stylists then went head-to-head in a wet look challenge set by Joanna, before answering a few questions from Creative HEAD editor, Amanda Nottage. And if that wasn’t enough, each guest had one final treat – a BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression Tong.

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2015 16:18

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

CUTTING-EDGE

CONTRAST YOU HAVE THE POWER to help your client be at the forefront of hair fashion, and Sebastian Professional’s two new products can help. The duo draw on the changing states of nature and form part of the brand’s Metamorphik collection.

“We really wanted to bring something to life that felt true to Sebastian’s DNA, products that allow for creativity to shine through,” says Michael Polsinelli, Sebastian global artistic director. “ERUPTEK and RESINTEK enables the stylist and consumer to push boundaries.”

A lava-like paste, ERUPTEK compounds the heat and energy of a volcano for explosive texture and expansive volume. When worked into hair, ERUPTEK morphs and transforms hair, allowing the stylist to twist and turn hair into new shapes and experiment like never before.

For the client who needs hold with hyper-shine, RESINTEK is the answer. The durable wax provides shine and hold, but hair can be remoulded, allowing you, the stylist, to be flexible.

“RESINTEK challenges perceptions from the moment it comes out of the bottle. It is almost sap-like and flows easily into the palm of your hand, while providing unexpected hold and hyper-shine,” adds Shay Dempsey, Sebastian global artistic director.

FANCY STYLING BACKSTAGE AT THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD UK & IRELAND FINAL? To celebrate the launch of ERUPTEK and RESINTEK, Sebastian Professional is on the hunt for the best #sebastianartist. The winner will receive an exclusive backstage styling opportunity at this year’s Wella Professional’s TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final. To be in with a chance of winning, you need to simply upload your boldest Metamorphik hair look to Twitter (@sebastianpro), Instagram (@Sebastianpro_official), or post to the Sebastian Professional official Facebook page using #sebastianartist. The competition opens 27 July, so you’ve got plenty of time to prepare, but make sure you’ve entered by 8 September.*

*Terms and conditions apply, visit sebastianprofessional.co.uk

MEET ERUPTEK AND RESINTEK BY SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL – ONE CREATES EXPLOSIVE VOLUME AND ONE GIVES SLEEK SHINE. BOTH WILL TAKE YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR TO NEW HEIGHTS

To find out more, contact your Wella account manager or call 01202 595700 CREATIVE HEAD

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And the winners are…

Sean Kenna with Mia and Anya Dellicompagni

EDUCATION YEAR 1 STYLE & FINISH – Jusdeep Singh, Wolverhampton College EDUCATION YEAR 2 COMMERCIAL CUT & COLOUR – Lucy Reed, Stafford College EDUCATION YEAR 3 CREATIVE CUT & COLOUR – Thomas Doyle, Walsall College SALONS YEAR 1 STYLE & FINISH – Sianie-Leigh Guest, Francesco Group Lichfield SALONS YEAR 2 COMMERCIAL CUT & COLOUR – Jess Davies, Francesco Group Birmingham SALONS YEAR 3 – CREATIVE CUT & COLOUR – Sian Draper, Scissors Bournemouth EDUCATORS EDITORIAL COLLECTION – Francesco Group Work-Based Learning Educators MEN’S IMAGE – Shaun McVay, Francesco Group Cheltenham AFRO IMAGE – Alicia McLaughlin, Francesco Group Birmingham COLOUR IMAGE – Emma Fearn, Scissors Bournemouth HAIR TREND IMAGE OF THE YEAR – Sean Kenna, Francesco Group Hanley

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Jess Davies

Shaun McVay

Sian Draper

BIRMINGHAM TOWN HALL is a pretty spectacular venue for a hairdressing event, and we felt like royalty as we watched proceedings from the box up on high! The occasion? The 2015 Francesco Group Photographic Awards, where stylists from all 36 Francesco Group salons, along with stylists from sister group, Scissors, gathered to celebrate young and more established team members alike in a truly creative outpouring of talent. Kicked off by an incredible show from the Francesco Group Creative Team, led by directors of hairdressing Anya and Mia Dellicompagni, it showcased the trends and techniques from its Raw Erosion collection. Mia and Anya were kept busy, taking on hosting duties to present the night’s prizes, with a little help from training manager, Craig Davies. The night finished with drinks and a live band for lashings of fun in Brum – and why not!

Francesco Group Creative Team

Absolutely BLINDING

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2015 16:18

SHEER LUXURIOUS COLOUR THAT‘S LUMINOUS IN EVERY KIND OF LIGHT 8 out of 10 stylists agree that ILLUMINA COLOR gives them the most natural-looking colour results they’ve ever seen.* For more information, contact your Wella Professionals Account Manager, call 01202 595700 or visit www.wella.com

* Based on survey with 218 hairdressers using ILLUMINA COLOR in Europe, fielded in January 2013.

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22/06/2015 17:36

TRENDVISION AWARD

DON’T MISS OUT!

MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT JUST FOLLOWING THE FUN ON TWITTER, BUT ARE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WELLA PROFESSIONALS TRENDVISION AWARD 2015 UK & IRELAND FINAL

EVERYONE LIKES BEING INSPIRED, RIGHT? And perhaps even the odd night out? Well add on a three-course dinner, inspirational shows, DJ and a glittering awards ceremony and you’ve got one huge night out.

The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2015 UK & Ireland Final is always a must-attend event, but this year the brand has really upped the ante. Taking place on 5 October at the magnificent Roundhouse in Camden, the evening will start with a cocktail reception, before guests sit down for a delicious three-course dinner. But that’s not all. Guests are in for a real treat this year. They’ll also see: • A new host – Claudia Winkleman – take the helm • Sanrizz, HOB Salons and Marc Antoni present their collections • An exclusive surprise show from an iconic Wella ambassador • Sebastian Professional UK Creative Style Artists and the Cult Team wow the audience with a sensational show Get a ticket for the night and you’ll also be among the first to find out who will be going to the Wella Professionals International TrendVision Award 2015 International Final.

So what are you waiting for? Make sure you’ve got your ticket to the TrendVision Award 2015 UK & Ireland Final today!

TICKETS NOW ON SALE!

OID BOOK TODAY TO AV DISAPPOINTMENT. C. VAT) TICKETS: £195 (EX PER PERSON. CALL 0845 601 8128

For the latest TrendVision Award news, visit facebook.com/WellaUK or follow the conversation on Twitter @wellapro #tva 70

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

“WITH STUNNING SHOWS, GREAT NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES AND THE CHANCE TO FIND OUT FIRST WHO HAS WON, THE TRENDVISION AWARD UK & IRELAND FINAL IS ONE OF THE MUST-ATTEND EVENTS OF YEAR! WE ARE COUNTING DOWN TO 5 OCTOBER – WE CAN’T WAIT!”

NEW FOR 2015!

D TRENDVISION AWAR RE GOES ONLINE WHE THE R FO TE YOU CAN VO .

CE OI PEOPLE’S CH S MORE DETAIL COMING SOON

PAUL ADAMCZUK, CHEYNES HAIRDRESSING

CREATIVE HEAD

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A LOOK BACK ON A YEAR OF CHANGE

IN SEPTEMBER, GOLDWELL WILL CELEBRATE ONE YEAR SINCE ITS REBRAND, SO WE THOUGHT WE’D TAKE A LOOK AT ITS SUCCESS SO FAR AND WHAT THE FUTURE HOLDS FOR THE BRAND

GOLDWELL’S BIG REBRAND was bold in its simplicity and brilliant in its statement.

Reaffirming its relationship with stylists, Goldwell’s new philosophy was this:

WE EMBRACE YOUR PASSION FOR BEAUTIFUL HAIR. WE BELIEVE THAT ONLY TOGETHER WE CAN REACH NEW HEIGHTS

BY ACHIEVING CREATIVE EXCELLENCE, OUTSTANDING CLIENT SATISFACTION AND SALON SUCCESS. WE DO MORE THAN JUST UNDERSTAND YOU. WE THINK LIKE YOU. WE THINK STYLIST. This is the essence of Goldwell and it is supported with a fresh new editorial look and attitude. The brand is focusing on what it has always done best: supporting the stylist to grow their business and creative artistry by delivering holistic, service-oriented campaigns that are relevant for stylists and clients’ needs. It’s been almost a year since the rebrand, so we decided now would be an opportune time to delve into just how Goldwell still thinks stylist, and how its people live and breathe this philosophy…

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POWER PLAYERS LOVE THE NEW GOLDWELL LOOK AND FEEL? MEET THE PEOPLE RESPONSIBLE FOR IT ALL AND FIND OUT THE PART THEY PLAYED IN GOLDWELL’S REBRAND

NICK WOOD, UK & IRELAND PRESIDENT OF GOLDWELL PARENT COMPANY KAO SALON, ON WHAT HE SEES FOR THE FUTURE OF THE BRAND CREATIVE HEAD: Why was the rebrand needed?

NICK WOOD: All brands need to be reinvented from time to time to stay sharp and focused, while recognising changes in the behaviour of their target audience. As a brand in the hairdressing world, which is essentially a fashion environment, it is critical we recognise trends and adjust our strategy and approach accordingly. We also wanted to create excitement for those that already love Goldwell and engage a new audience.

CH: What impact has the rebrand had on the industry’s perception of Goldwell in the UK? NW: We want our brand to be beautiful and aspirational.

Consequently, we have become more sophisticated, but with an edge. It seems to have worked as almost one year on I am still receiving wonderful feedback on what we have done.

CH: How will Goldwell keep ‘We Think Stylist’ going?

NW: We were determined that this relaunch would not be forgotten about. We are keeping it alive by a strong internal culture where we continually check ourselves against the ‘We think Stylist’ mantra. It is also a priority with our salons so there is a true connection and a desire for us to understand what it takes to be a salon owner, a colourist or a stylist.

CH: What makes Goldwell the best choice for stylists?

NW: To be a great partner to salons it is no longer enough to only make great products. Manufacturers must look at ways to provide greater support in everything from education to commercial work, business skills to inspirational ideas and beyond. What is also important is that we have worked really hard to bring into our teams people who truly care, are passionate about what they do and want to make a difference.

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CREATIVE HEAD

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

MICHELLE COX, BRAND MARKETING MANAGER OF KAO SALON DIVISION UK, EXPLAINS THE THINKING BEHIND GOLDWELL’S PHILOSOPHY CREATIVE HEAD: What was your role in the rebrand?

MICHELLE COX: Our global team had been working, testing and researching the rebrand for more than two years before it launched and, as the UK is such an important market for the brand, I had the opportunity to be involved from an early stage. I led a UK rebrand team that consisted of experts from many parts of the business, to collectively bring the new Goldwell look to life and ensure the new image really appealed to our stylists.

CH: How has the Goldwell rebrand been received?

MC: We have had an incredible response, from colleagues and stylists, from salon partners, in the press and among industry greats.

CH: What steps did you take to ensure that the rebrand was communicated effectively in the UK? MC: First, it was so important to communicate to our internal teams to really build the passion and support for the rebrand from within. Our education team was also involved early on as education is such a fundamental part of Goldwell’s philosophy. Second, we showcased the new Goldwell to the industry by hosting a series of events. Our networking club for elite customers, The HUB, held an exclusive launch event. This was a unique opportunity for these customers to experience Goldwell and know that we are putting stylists at the forefront of our thinking.

CH: What was the highlight of the rebrand project for you?

MC: Launch day! When all that hard work finally comes together, seeing stylists’ reactions and hearing such positive comments makes it all worthwhile.

CREATIVE HEAD

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JOHN MORONEY, VICE PRESIDENT OF KAO SALON DIVISION GLOBAL, REVEALS WHY HE FELT THE GOLDWELL REBRAND WAS NEEDED AND HOW THE NEW LOOK WILL INSPIRE STYLISTS WORLDWIDE CREATIVE HEAD: How long did the Goldwell rebrand project take from concept to launch?

JOHN MORONEY: We started working on the project in late 2012. Goldwell is constantly conducting research with stylists and consumers about how our brand is perceived and it was during one of these research cycles that we came to the realisation it was time to update the look, tone and feel of the brand.

CH: Why was this rebrand so significant for Goldwell on a global level?

JM: The launch of the new Goldwell image has become a rallying point for our salon businesses around the world. By launching the new look and message of Goldwell worldwide, we were able to make a global statement to the salon industry about our commitment to stylists and our goal of helping salons grow their business through inspiration, education and partnership.

CH: What has the response been to the rebrand from stylists around the world?

JM: It’s been amazing. Stylists love the ‘We Think Stylist’ message. We’ve also found that the rebrand is catching the attention of stylists who are not Goldwell users.

CH: Has this rebrand affected Goldwell’s brand positioning?

JM: Absolutely! In addition to the incredible visual statement we have made, we are attracting the attention of stylists for more than just the ‘look’ of Goldwell. The new bold look and confidence of the brand is drawing more people to us.

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THE EVOLUTION DISCOVER HOW GOLDWELL KEPT THE EXCITEMENT GOING THROUGHOUT THE YEAR, ENSURING EVERYONE KNEW WHAT THE BRAND IS ALL ABOUT

OCTOBER 2014

JANUARY 2015

l Goldwell.com goes live in 29 countries. l Goldwell launches GLOBAL ZOOM at the Color Zoom Global event in Berlin. An epic annual event that hosts the Color Zoom global finale, inspiring education seminars, stunning shows and business networking.

l The new-look Color Zoom collection is revealed to stylists worldwide. ‘Traditional Rebels’ is edgier and more editorial than previous collections.

FEBRUARY 2015

SEPTEMBER 2014 l Goldwell’s rebrand is unveiled and the ‘We Think Stylist’ philosophy comes to life. l Goldwell’s launches its first service campaign, ‘Grey to Gorgeous’. It encompasses education, highimpact visuals, marketing, product innovation and supports every part of the stylist and client journey.

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l Goldwell’s business networking club – The HUB – goes on tour. Stylists are invited to join business seminars around the UK and meet like-minded salon owners. The HUB encourages salon owners to help shape Goldwell, with opportunities to voice what stylists like and don’t like about the brand and share ideas for the future.

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2015 16:29

CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

OF A BRAND SEPTEMBER 2015

l Goldwell celebrates its one-year anniversary since its global rebrand l Watch this space for more breakthrough service innovations – coming soon!

MARCH 2015 l The ‘Perfect Beauty’ service campaign is launched, taking everyday salon services up a notch to ensure your salon menu is the best it can be. l Mark Leeson is announced as the first global creative ambassador for Goldwell.

JULY 2015 l The Color Zoom Summer Party takes place at the Freemasons’ Hall in London, where the Color Zoom UK Winners are revealed to more than 350 stylists.

MAY 2015

Global Team

Mark Leeson

Jay Mahmood

l Goldwell announces Jay Mahmood as global artistic director for hair cutting as its Global Team of elite stylists continues to grow.

Discover how Goldwell’s philosophy can help you today. To find out more, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com CREATIVE HEAD

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EAST IS

EAST

CAST ON THE STREETS OF SHOREDITCH AND ITS LOCALE, MEET A RENEGADE ROSTER OF TIGI CLIENTS FROM THE BED HEAD HAIR SPACE AT BOXPARK PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY MASCOLO AND MAURO CARRARO

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TO WATCH the film of the shoot, visit creativeheadmag.com

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HAIR Gen Itoh, Norimitsu Goto, Salma Sirkala, Emma Dodge, Kerrie O’Reilly, John Harte and Josh Mascolo. MAKE-UP Natalie Piacun. STYLING Jiv D

THINK INSIDE THE BOX!

AN EXCITING HAIR BRAND NEEDS THE RIGHT SANDBOX TO EXPERIMENT – ENTER THE TIGI BED HEAD HAIR SPACE IN LONDON’S BOXPARK TIGI HAS ALWAYS done things a little differently. Creative, artistic, experimental, it’s a brand that has broken down barriers, banishing the dull with its fashion sense and spirit.

International creative director Anthony Mascolo loves all things London and draws inspiration from its street culture.

And right now, Shoreditch is unique; a microcosm of individual fashion, art and culture that you just can’t find anywhere else.

It makes perfect sense for TIGI to find a home in Shoreditch – welcome to the Bed Head Hair Space, a salon, studio, gallery, events and retail space in two old shipping containers at the iconic Boxpark, led by creative director Gen Itoh. The space may be limited but the possibilities are endless – this is a creative and inspirational location to evolve and transform.

An experimental playground, Boxpark allows TIGI

artists from the Bed Head Academy to see clients in a salon environment and to trend-source from one of London’s most relevant areas, to show the power of branding, and a chance to illustrate to visiting salons from across the UK how a small but targeted retail concept can reap rewards. A year on from launch, Bed Head Hair Space is running as a successful business, with an astonishing 30 per cent of its revenue from retail. Photo walls, touch screens, video content all bring product displays – and the brand – to life.

It also offers TIGI the chance to see how consumers relate to products first hand, helping develop new formulations and launches. And as Boxpark explores the possibility of global expansion, who’s to say that there might not be a Bed Head Hair Space in LA or Stockholm – a set of experimental hubs?

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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION

GEN X

MEET GEN ITOH, THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR BEHIND THE BED HEAD HAIR SPACE FOR TIGI

WHY BOXPARK?

WANT TO READ our interview with TIGI legend Anthony Mascolo? Head to creativeheadmag.com or download our iPad issue

“I’ve always lived in East on London and taken my inspirati ressive styling of the people prog and vibe ic rget ene the from TIGI, street fashion has At living and working in the area. haircuts. It was a very our of t been key to the developmen be experimental and to ce Spa the natural step. We wanted eptual ideas we could motivational, but also provide conc particularly in retailing.” share with other salon owners,

WHAT’S THE STORY WITH THE SHOOT? “Since we opened we’ve created some great cuts and colours on the many stylish and interesting people walking past Boxpark, and have shared lots of the looks on social media. The shoot was the next step.

Anthony Mascolo was really excited about the project and we got the whole salon team and the TIGI International Creative Team involved. It was an amazing day and we’re so happy with the results!”

Want to see what TIGI can do for your retail? Think outside the box and call 0844 844 0944 or visit bedheadbytigi.com 85

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BILLION THE US HAIR SALON INDUSTRY IS A $20 CHAINS (£12.7 BILLION) MARKET DOMINATED BY PREMIER SUCH AS REGIS, RATNER COMPANIES, UNISEX AND SALONS AND SPORT CLIPS, WITH 82,000 AGE SALON IS 4,000 BARBERSHOPS IN TOTAL. AN AVER UP TO 1,500 SQ FT IN SIZE, LOCATED IN A SHOPPING MALL AND PAYING STAFF A SALARY OF $45,000 (£28,600). IT WILL DELIVER A RANGE OF ‘SAFE’ CUT AND COLOUR SERVICES TO THE CELEBRITY-OBSESSED, RISK-AVERSE POPULATION OF THE US. EXCEPT IN NEW YORK CITY – THAT’S WHERE THINGS GET INTERESTING…

NEW YORK STORIES FRINGE

BROOME STREET, FRINGENY.COM ATMOSPHERE Relaxed ’50s soda stand CULT PRODUCTS Fringe & Friends HAIRCUT PRICE From $65 (£43) Bouncy blow-drys are hardly de rigueur here, as owner Amy Schiappa believes a haircut should look just as good wet as it does dry. Moreover, she says: “A lot of our clients are on the go. They don’t have time. They seem to be entrepreneurs or people that make a statement in the world. You won’t look like everyone else in the room.”

One client, Toni Hess, executive creative director of a digital advertising agency, used to get her hair cut at more conventional salons. “I had gone to a couple of the uptown New York salons, paid $400 for a haircut and I thought it wasn’t really worth it,” she says. “The thing I love about Fringe is it’s kind of an old-fashioned beauty-shop feel: ladies get together and there’s a lot of talking among the customers.”

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#NewYork

WHITTEMORE HOUSE SALON GROVE STREET, WHITTEMOREHOUSESALON.COM ATMOSPHERE Run-down mansion chic CULT PRODUCTS Sachajuan HAIRCUT PRICE From $95 (£62) Situated on the ground floor of a former West Village boarding house, this stand-out salon features intentionally distressed walls and furniture from an antiques store in Rochester, New York. “We wanted to have the feeling that you’re going into a friend’s house,” says Victoria Hunter, who co-owns the salon with Larry Raspanti. “We did a TV show with [model] Karolina Kurkova, she walked in and said ‘I feel like I’m home.’”

Larry and Victoria are former creative directors at Bumble and bumble and, like many independent salon owners, they wanted their space, now three years old, to be the opposite of the larger chains. “It really is about intimacy,” explains Victoria.

“That’s what people want to feel.”

Known for ‘hair painting’, a technique that involves brushing on colour without foils, clients have included actresses Gwyneth Paltrow, Mandy Moore and Kate Bosworth. Larry has also been doing hair for a U2 tour. “He had a great time,” says Victoria. “He has to come back to reality now.”

TOSLER DAVIS

5TH AVENUE, TOSLERDAVIS.COM ATMOSPHERE Airy, artsy loft space CULT PRODUCTS Magic Move, Davines, René Furterer HAIRCUT PRICE From $95 (£62) “We don’t give people the same attitude you get from a celebrity stylist,” says Sean Davis, the colourist who founded this salon in 1999 with British stylist Alan Tosler. “You know, an ‘I do soand-so, I know so-and-so’ attitude.”

And while Sean and Alan have their own bold art-world clients such as Cecily Brown, Jessica Craig-Martin and Yvonne Force Villareal, Sean says the difference is that his salon listens to what clients want more than most other places do. “If you go to the latest mega-salon,” he explains, “you’re likely to hear, ‘this is hot, this is our look’, they have a brand to push. We don’t have a signature look, so we have more flexibility.”

Works of art from clients adorn the walls of the salon, which has Eames chairs and lighting from Restoration Hardware.

“You feel like you’re hanging out in your cool friend’s loft,” adds Sean. “It doesn’t feel corporate.”

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GUILLAUME DUEZ

AVP GLOBAL MARKETING, REDKEN, MATRIX ORIGINALLY FROM… France I LIVE IN… Nolita, Manhattan MY COMMUTE TO WORK… Is very short, just 20 minutes. I take the subway and jump on the F or 6 trains, which both run smoothly.

MY FAVOURITE BOOKSHOP… I love McNally Jackson Books on the corner of Prince Street and Mulberry Street. You can have a coffee there to hang out and read and buy all the latest international magazines.

THE PLACE WHERE I GET MY FRESH AIR… Is along the Hudson river which has been renovated for pedestrians. You can walk all the way along Manhattan.

MY FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP… Whole Foods! It’s amazing and organic. If I am uptown I go to Eli’s Manhattan, which imports lots of cheese from Europe.

ON THE TOWN

ON MY DAYS OFF… I love to relax in the city and explore neighbourhoods with my wife.

THE MAJORITY OF PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN THE CITY WERE NOT BORN THERE – NEW YO RKERS ARE PEOPLE WHO LEFT THEIR HOME TO COME LOOKING FOR SOMETHING, GIVING THE CITY ITS ENERGY AND AMBITION...

GUIDO

SESSION STYLIST

ORIGINALLY FROM… Bournemouth, UK THE STUDIO WHERE I WORK… I share a studio with photographer Steven Meisel on 15th Street. It’s just a few blocks from my apartment, so it’s an easy commute.

THE BOOKSHOP I LOVE… Dashwood Books, it’s great for photography books. I also like 192 as it’s round the corner from where I live and is a civilised and relaxed place to hang out.

THE COFFEE SHOP WHERE I GET MY FIX… Intelligentsia in the Highline Hotel. It’s from LA, and has great staff making great coffee. It’s all very slow and relaxing.

THE RESTAURANT WHERE I MEET FRIENDS… Cookshop.

It does great seasonal fare.

THE PLACE WHERE I GET MY FRESH AIR… My apartment has a large terrace, which I’ve planted like an overgrown English garden. I love that I can open the French doors and just step out into it. I meditate there twice a day.

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#NewYork

EZEL

INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, SACHAJUAN ORIGINALLY FROM… London, UK I LIVE IN… Long Island THE RESTAURANT WHERE I MEET FRIENDS… Masa – it’s a Japanese restaurant in the Time Warner building. You’re going to part with a couple of hundred bucks just by walking through the drapes, but the food is incredible.

THE PLACE WHERE I GET MY FRESH AIR… Central Park. It’s so iconic.

MY FAVOURITE CLOTHES SHOP… The Buffalo Exchange store. It’s a shop where clothes and accessories are bought, sold and traded with local people. I got a Yohji Yamamoto coat there for under $100.

THE LATEST THING IN NEW YORK IS... Real estate is so expensive here that everything’s going underground. It’s all about warehouse parties, street carts and pop-ups, and the newest restaurants are ones where you go and eat at a random person’s house.

“Celebrity is such a big driver here. Ted Gibson can charge $1,500 for a haircut because his clients feel like they’re just one step from Angelina Jolie”

MISCHA G HOUSE OF BUMBLE

ORIGINALLY FROM… Buffalo, New York I LIVE IN… The East Village, although my girlfriend lives in Brooklyn so I spend a lot of time there.

ON A TYPICAL DAY… I’ll start at 10am and finish at 7.30pm. My appointment times are 45 minutes, and I can get through 12 to 15 clients a day, five days a week – in heels, let me add!

THE RESTAURANT WHERE I MEET FRIENDS… Miss Lily’s, Avenue A. It’s a Jamaican restaurant decked out like an island beach shack. Everyone who works there looks like a model.

THE PLACE WHERE I GET MY FRESH AIR… Prospect Park in Brooklyn.

It’s a beautiful woodland oasis in the heart of Brooklyn – you can really lose yourself there.

MY FAVOURITE CLOTHES SHOP… L Train Vintage – it’s a vintage store where you can find amazing bargains. There are seven or eight of them in New York.

MY FAVOURITE GROCERY SHOP… I don’t do grocery stores. The kitchen in my apartment is tiny and covered with wigs that I’ve dyed in my pots, so I wouldn’t want to cook there!

MY NIGHTLIFE… Right now I hang out with Susanne Bartsch and Amanda Lepore, and I go to Ladyfag’s parties – they’re supermixed: gay and straight, male and female, old and young, suits and drag queens!

“I get a tattoo on every Bumble and bumble trip I go on” 89

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BRIGHT LIGHTS,

BIG CITY

PAUL MERRITT WAS ONCE THE BAD BOY OF BRITISH HAIRDRESSING – A PRECOCIOUSLY TALENTED STYLIST WHO SHOOK UP THE INDUSTRY WITH AUDACIOUS SHOOTS, ROCK ‘N’ ROLL BEHAVIOUR AND AN IRREVERENT ATTITUDE TO SOME OF HAIR’S MOST VENERABLE INSTITUTIONS. A STARRING ROLE IN REALITY TV SERIES THE SALON MADE HIM A HOUSEHOLD NAME AND LED TO THE LAUNCH OF HIS CELEBRITY-FILLED SUPER-SALON, BLOWW. BUT THE RELENTLESS GLARE OF PUBLICITY SOON TOOK ITS TOLL, AND WITH CREATIVE FALL-OUTS, FIST FIGHTS AND FINANCIAL SCANDALS, IT WAS TIME TO REASSESS. HAVING TASTED SUCCESS WITH THE JED ROOT AGENCY IN LONDON, THREE YEARS AGO PAUL UPROOTED TO THE BIG APPLE AND PUT HIS TALENTS TO USE AS AN IN-DEMAND SESSION STYLIST. CREATIVE HEAD WENT TO MEET HIM TO TALK ABOUT OLD TIMES AND BEING AN ENGLISHMAN IN NEW YORK…

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NAME PAUL MERRITT YEARS IN HAIRDRESSING 23 PLACE OF RESIDENCE TRIBECA, NEW YORK CITY

#PaulMerritt

HOW I GOT STARTED: I trained at Vidal Sassoon on Brook

HOW I MADE MY MARK: I would say I truly arrived on the

Street in London and got my first job with a company called Hair Associates in 1995. I was there for three years until I was offered £75,000 to move to Nicky Clarke and I thought ‘why not’? I was hired to help Nicky launch his Manchester salon, and it was a great success. There’s a certain type of woman who likes the Nicky Clarke look, and we made sure we catered to her – clients were getting all dressed up just to come into the salon. It was incredible to work with one of the biggest names in hairdressing and all the flamboyance that surrounded that. [Nicky’s then wife] Lesley was so determined – it was incredible to see her operate. And Nicky is a really good guy.

THREE WORDS THAT SUM YOU UP: OCD, patient and happy.

People often make judgments about me that are completely wrong.

THREE WORDS THAT SUM UP HAIRDRESSING: Underrated – this industry does not command the respect it deserves. Two-faced – hairdressers often seem to find it difficult to be honest about themselves, although I have met some genuine and inspirational people, such as Umberto Giannini. Enjoyable – it’s a career that I’ve loved and that has opened doors for me.

HOW I GOT INTO SESSION HAIRDRESSING: I was introduced to the Jed Root agency in London about three years ago – I looked it up and saw it had every big name on its books. Even though I didn’t have much session experience, the agency signed me because it spotted something in me commercially. My first job was a week in St Petersburg for Russian Vogue. I was bricking it as I thought ‘I’m bound to be found out’!

hairdressing scene in 2000, alongside Lee Stafford and Adee Phelan. There were drugs, we acted like we were in a band, we got into fights… We were rebelling against the way the industry was at the time, and I think we made a point. Hairdressing did change after that – the hair looks that were being created started to look a bit more editorial.

MY BEST JOB: Has got to be working with Bryan Ferry – I’ve cut his hair for years. Also, going to Claudia Schiffer’s house was pretty special. I never thought she was that sexy until I met her in the flesh…

MY CAREER LOW: Taking on the role of salon manager in [Channel 4 reality TV series] The Salon throughout 2003 and 2004 made me a household name, but in other ways it was the worst thing I ever did. [Viewers were given an insight into life in a professional salon with Paul and his team of trainees and employees].

At the end of the day, Channel 4 didn’t care about hairdressing or the reputation of hairdressers – it just wanted to create TV that was going to appeal to the masses, and I fought really, really hard for it to be more grounded. Lots of people would say it wasn’t grounded but it could have been so much worse and, overall, it was a positive thing for hairdressing at the time. We took it from 800,000 viewers to more than 3 million, and more importantly it inspired many young men to want to be hairdressers. But for me, it meant getting physical abuse on the street from people who felt they knew me, and it made me realise I didn’t want to be a celebrity, unlike some of the people around me at the time.

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MY LIFE IN NEW YORK CITY

I first fell in love with New York on my 30th birthday, when I woke up with an $18,000 (£11,800) bar bill from The Royalton hotel. I moved here in 2012 – after I left Bloww in 2008 and being taken on by Jed Root, I felt like I needed to change my environment.

I didn’t want to be in the session world in London – it’s snobby and can be difficult to get in with the right crowd.

I wanted to draw a line and do something on my own.

So Jed Root parachuted me into New York, and that really opened doors for me. The international market likes to shoot here, and from the start I was working with the likes of Elle, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, as well as doing lots of commercial work and getting flown down to Miami to shoot in the winter. Three years down the line and I’m with a different agency, De Facto, and I feel I’m getting nicely established here.

MY LANDMARK MOMENTS – TIMES IN MY LIFE THAT TOOK ME PLACES NUMBER ONE A trip to Bali in 1989. I was brought up in East London and by my early 20s I was getting into a bit of trouble. Things could have ended up very differently, but I took this trip and was away for about two years and thankfully it kept me out of temptation’s way.

NUMBER TWO Telling my dad I wanted to be a hairdresser, and him telling me, “Well, in that case you’d better go to Vidal Sassoon…”

NUMBER THREE Setting up my salon, Bloww, in 2005 with [fellow The Salon star] Adee Phelan and the whole extravagant lifestyle that went with it – one of my favourite memories is of sitting in a strip club

with Lemmy from Motorhead and Axl Rose from Guns N’ Roses. But Bloww was a costly experience – emotionally as well as financially – and it really tested me as a person.

The salon took nine months to build, and just two years later I was gone.

MY FAVOURITE POSSESSION: A 1968 Omega Flightmaster watch.

MY BIGGEST PASSION: Tennis. I play at Midtown Tennis Club in NYC – I go on court just after [American Vogue editor] Anna Wintour; we pass each other in the corridor.

MY IDOLS ARE: Luigi Murenu – I like that he has his own little gang and they create their own body of work; and Orlando Pita – he’s such

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QUICK-FIRE QUESTIONS

a nice guy and the work he does is incredibly beautiful.

BACK IN THE UK I’VE GOT MY EYE ON:

Sam Burnett’s new salon, Hare & Bone. I really like the branding and it’s in a great spot [in Marylebone, London]. I also like Radio London in Shoreditch. If I did a salon now it would be something like that.

Corrado Tevere, the salon director, has created something where everything from the decor to the cuts and the prices is defined by his clientele. Nothing is out of place.

MY CAREER IN HAIRDRESSING: Has lasted 23 years so far and only three of those have been in session, but the content I’ve created in those

past three years is what will define me in the end – I don’t want to be remembered as a ’90s gobshite.

What I love about session is that when you go on set everyone is in the same boat – everyone’s worried about getting their bit right, just as you are, so you’re not on your own.

My only regret is that I left it so late.

In session, people build tight little clubs – Guido and [photographer] David Sims, for example – and I’ve always operated pretty much on my own; even when I was growing up as a hairdresser I never had a mentor.

Now I’m in my more mature years, it feels like being part of a close-knit team would be a good thing.

My earliest memory of doing hair is…

Giving myself a skinhead with clippers in 1980 while listening to Madness.

My work ethic is… Getting there! In 10 years’ time I’ll be a good hairdresser!

Sometimes I feel like… I’m just starting.

I’m a huge fan of… Balance.

I moved to New York... Because I wanted a new challenge.

I wish I could have… Picked up a tennis racket at the age of 16, and had a mentor in my career as a hairdresser.

The reality of working in fashion is…

Being myself and growing within it. I’m being true to myself.

Today, the hairdressing industry is…

An amazing journey, and one that I never expected to happen.

The main difference between working in London and New York is… In New York, if someone says they’re going to do something, they do it. In London they just say it.

If money were no object I would…

Money has never been my object.

If someone gave me £10 million... I’d buy a big house and carry on doing this.

My greatest career influence… Was Yan, my booker at Jed Root.

This year I hope to be… Healthy.

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SHADOWLANDS STRIKING IN ITS SIMPLICITY, THIS MONOCHROME MARVEL FROM PAUL MERRITT IS A POWERFUL ILLUSTRATION OF BEAUTY PHOTOGRAPHY BY CODY LIDTKE

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HAIR Paul Merritt. MAKE-UP Dana Rae. PRODUCTS Arrojo

AD1100 DPS Creative Head PM Trade Ad Final .indd 1

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T OP SH EL F Kristian Aadnevik S/S15, image courtesy of Moroccanoil

OILS

FROM A TREATMENT AND STYLING TOOL TO A KEY INGREDIENT FOR COMPLETE PRODUCT RANGES, WE CELEBRATE THE RETAIL POSSIBILITIES OF OIL

Who knew a small brown bottle would start a revolution? In the six years since its launch, Moroccanoil has extended its brand to include not only hair and styling but also body care – a true holistic retail offering for your salon. You’ll find the brand backstage at Fashion Week, too, giving it a chic edge. But that brown bottle is still the big head-turner: “Moroccanoil is the ideal foundation for hair styling. It’s lightweight and instantly absorbs into the hair,” says Antonio Corral Calero, its global creative ambassador.

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goldwell.com

The luxurious formula of Unite U-Oil repairs hair cuticles, adds weightless shine and enhances the vibrancy of colour.

Joico’s Restorative Styling Oil protects from UV rays and heat styling, while sealing in colour.

Great for holidays!

unitehair.co.uk

joicoeurope.com

RRP £30

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Containing argan and tamanu oils, Goldwell Elixir protects from damage caused by blow-drying, and it enhances colour brilliance.

Paraben-free, Paul Mitchell’s dry touch Awapuhi Wild Ginger Styling Treatment Oil absorbs easily as awapuhi extract hydrates locks.

RRP £12.95

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ASP’s Kitoko Oil Treatment is an indulgent blend of karité and argan oils, rich in antioxidants and omega oils.

Charged with shine-boosting Abyssinian and argan oils, Fudge Professional Light Hed-ed Hair Oil fights frizz and humidity.

RRP £16.95

BEYOND THE OIL

The L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil range now includes Sérum De Force. This leave-in nourishing scalp treatment helps to combat hair fibre breakage.

RRP £16.99

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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O U TSH I N E T H E REST M O R O C C A N O I L T R E A T M E N T: T H E A R G A N O I L - I N F U S E D I N N O VAT I O N T H AT R E VO L U T I O N I S E D H A I R C A R E

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y

Available in salons worldwide | 0800 310 1133 | Moroccanoil.co.uk

Alexander McQueen S/S15, image courtesy of Redken

CHILL* RRP £14.99 chill.uk.com

OSMO BERBER OIL RRP FROM £10.20 osmo.uk.com

KÉRASTASE RRP £35.50 kerastase.co.uk

The new generation of oils not only fuse several different versions (we’re beyond simply argan oil now!) but are evolving into hybrid products that are SP LUXE OIL big news for retail business. Redken’s Diamond RRP £19.20 wella.com Oil Shatterproof Shine (as spotted at Alexander McQueen) offers serious strength, while LABEL M RRP £24.95 Elixir Ultime is Kérastase’s first oil enriched with a labelm.com complex of four precious oils (pracaxi, argan, maize, camellia) to help smooth hair fibre. Argan Moisturizing Elixir by Balmain Hair gives hair an instant boost for a smooth look and Osmo’s Berber Oil helps protect from UV rays and reduces drying time. Can oil make hair look younger?

New label.m Therapy Rejuvenating Oil Mist with Rejuven-8 Complex promises to address the key signs of hair ageing. Fusions are in vogue right now – oil/serum ed lush by chill* promises to transform dull, lifeless hair, while SP LuxeOil BALMAIN HAIR Keratin Conditioning Cream is a daily REDKEN RRP £22.95 RRP £31.99 saviour that doesn’t weigh hair down. balmainhair.com redken.co.uk

NEW INNOVATION

Schwarzkopf Professional has unveiled two luxurious innovations: BC Oil Miracle Mist with marula oil for fine hair and BC Oil Miracle Mist with argan oil for thick hair. Silicone-free, these oils promise to make hair silkysoft and aid drying time.

Featuring organic sunflower oil to nourish hair and skin, Aveda Shampure Composition can be used in the bath, on the body, massaged into the scalp, to condition cuticles, soften feet and calm the mind before sleep – phew!

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

aveda.co.uk

RRP £19.95 EACH

MULTITASKER

RRP £22

M E E T T H E FA M I LY

Perfect for summer heat, I.C.O.N’s India Oil range contains restoring moringa and shine-enhancing argan oils to deliver health and shine.

Freshly relaunched to include a pampering body wash, Davines OI range looks incredible on the salon shelf – and the shower shelf at home.

Bumble and bumble’s Bb.Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil range – Sulfate Free Shampoo, Conditioner, Oil and Primer – features a blend of oils to soften like silk.

louise.jenkins@icon-concept.co.uk

davines.com

bumbleandbumble.co.uk

RRP FROM £17.50

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RRP FROM £20.95

RRP FROM £16

CREATIVE HEAD

23/06/2015 10:16

Quote CHAUG to receive ÂŁ25 off your membership before 31st August 2015 *terms and conditions apply

Just can’t get enough!

PROFILE

Winning the It List It Guy 2014 crown wasn’t Richard Phillipart’s first Creative HEAD award – the Boutique Atelier owner was named It List Entrepreneur in 2012 – but this time it’s all about his creative mind.

He tells us all about his hectic career, from working at John Galliano to going back to his roots 104

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Photography by Matt Stansfield

#Profile

Give something back “Once a year I go back into my old college, West Cheshire, to give a talk to the students. I take in some of the hair pieces from the shows we’ve done and explain to them how they’re made, taking them apart and showing them on a model. I like to explain to them what they can achieve if they work really hard. I also set a challenge for the advanced students. They have to pick their favourite look from Fashion Week, recreate it on one of the mannequin heads and explain why they liked it. Then I select two or three of them to spend a day with me backstage at the SVE fashion show in Manchester. It’s good experience because there are so many avenues in hairdressing but you can’t learn them all at college.”

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“Gareth Pugh celebrated his 10th year in fashion by returning to London for a show at the V&A. The backstage area was really small – there wasn’t a proper dressing room at all! It was a fast turnaround because the clothes were so intricate for the girls to get into, so we didn’t have very long to create the hair. Anthony Turner for L’Oréal Professionnel led the team and we were split into sections to do three different looks. It was organised chaos – we looked like we were just running around, but we knew exactly what we were supposed to be doing! The show opened with an incredible video by filmmaker Ruth Hogben, where a model with beautiful long blonde hair cut it all off and smeared red paint across her face. It was a perfect return to London, the models wore amazing headpieces and carried huge flags.”

Gareth Pugh images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel

Gareth Pugh A/W15 with Anthony Turner

American Dream

L’Oréal Professionnel

American Dream

Teacher, teacher “I’ve done educational courses for L’Oréal Professionnel for about five years now. My course is called Catwalk to Client and it’s taught across the UK and Ireland. It’s about teaching stylists how to read magazines properly, distilling and dissecting the trends to decide what’s relevant and how to make it work in the salon. The biggest piece of advice I give to students is to be aware of what’s coming along – high street and high fashion used to be so separate, but it’s almost one now. Clients are more educated than they’ve ever been, so in turn we in the industry have to be more educated, too. You need to know the trends before your clients come in and tell you. I also teach social media at ghd, which is something everyone needs to work hard at as it’s relentless. You have to keep going and don’t let yourself get disheartened when people don’t pick up on stuff – just keep talking until they start to listen. As well as my teaching I have been an ambassador for American Dream since 2013, where I’m involved with product development and shooting product catalogues, showcasing the brand’s youthful, fashion-led look.”

A Boutique experience “We’re about to open our new Boutique Atelier salon, which will see the number of stations increase from 11 to 23! We needed to relocate because we’ve been getting some great CVs but we don’t have the space to put the stylists in. We’re also running apprenticeships at the salon and want to be able to give them jobs at the end of their training. The new salon will have the same feel that our current salon has, but slightly evolved. It’s going to be a little more industrial with polished concrete on the floor, as well as gold mirrors hanging on reclaimed timber. We’re also expanding some of our services and have created a colour bar that offers quick and easy root touch-ups.”

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Images: invisibobble

#Profile

In the loop

“Invisibobble started off as just a hair tie, but people realised they could create hair-ups with it without pins or grips. Then I got on board as global ambassador to create some fashion-conscious styles using it and I’ve been travelling to Canada, Dubai and beyond to help expand the brand internationally. I realised I was using it a lot in the salon for sectioning and blow-drying, so I started playing around with it when colouring. I developed an ombre technique using invisibobble where I space out a couple of bobbles going down the hair and then push them up to bring the hair together – so when you colour you end up with merged tones.”

John Galliano for Maison Margiela S/S15 Couture with Eugene Souleiman “This really was one of my standout events. I was booked for the whole job, which included two test days when we just got to play around with hair. Eugene Souleiman was trying out looks and Pat McGrath was at the other end of the room doing make-up – it was amazing to be surrounded by these two incredible artists. On the second day we were there from 10am until 4am the next day while they were doing fittings. Eugene had to decide which looks were going on which girl and it was a really exciting process. The models took turns to stand on a pedestal while John Galliano sewed clothes onto them and classical music played – it was everything you’d imagine fashion to be. The day after the show Craig McDean shot the looks for American Vogue. The set was beautiful and the venue was amazing – it was on another level.”

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POSSESSION UNDERSTATED, STRAIGHT-LACED VICTORIANA COLLIDES WITH MODERNITY IN HEROINES, BY JAYNE LITTLER AT ANDREW COLLINGE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALEX BARRON-HOUGH

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HAIR Jayne Littler at Andrew Collinge, shot at Bed Head Studio with TIGI. COLOUR Warren Boodghians using TIGI CopyrightŠolour. MAKE-UP Liz Collinge. STYLING Jiv D

LAST WORD

OPEN FOR ALL

HAIRDRESSERS HAVE A DUTY OF CARE TO MAKE GOING TO THE SALON LESS TRAUMATIC FOR PEOPLE WITH DISABILITIES, ARGUES IAN MARSHALL, OWNER OF SPARGO HAIRDRESSING MANY SALONS up and down the country, including my own Spargo salon, pride themselves on offering a relaxing service where clients get pampered and leave the salon feeling confident inside and out – but this isn’t the case for one particular segment of the population. Many children and adults with learning, physical and additional needs often have an extremely confusing, painful and distressing experience at the hairdressers. This is a large client base that the hairdressing industry is not catering for.

I’d never really thought about what it’s like for people with disabilities to visit the salon. That was until my nephew was born with cerebral palsy and a loyal client and good friend of mine, Nicola Rodriguez-Holmes [pictured above with Ian], explained the horrendous and traumatic experience that her four-year-old autistic son endures when getting his hair cut. I realised that the hairdressing industry was not accommodating

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to all types of consumers and this prompted the creation of SpargoLand – I feel it’s my responsibility to provide for as many people as possible.

SpargoLand aims to offer a fun and enjoyable hairdressing experience in a safe environment for children and adults with all forms of disabilities, as well as families and carers who are looking for support. We believe it’s the first of its kind in the world and we’re extremely excited to be opening its doors later this year. This safe haven is not run as a business, but as a nonprofit salon as we want all proceeds to support the running of it and any SpargoLands we may open in the future.

As hairdressers it’s our responsibility and obligation to adjust our services to make them accessible and enjoyable for all, so I hope you’ll all join me in making this a reality.

Ian Marshall is owner of Spargo Hairdressing in Brentwood

CREATIVE HEAD

23/06/2015 10:32

colors to brighten tame your tangles your summer The full size Ombré Wet Brush® features our exclusive IntelliFlex® bristles gently detangle hair. No snags, pulls or pain. Just healthier more beautiful hair.

Our Ombré Midi Shine features Mongolian Boar™ and IntelliFlex® bristles to gently detangle while it spreads your hairs natural oils for luster and shine. Works great with dry shampoos and conditioners.

BEAUTIFUL STARTS HERE.

Prowetbrush.com

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THE METAMORPHIK COLLECTION ERUPTEK

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RESINTEK

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WHAT’S NEXT 11/06/2015 14:46