Creative HEAD July/August 2016

£4.50 JULY/AUGUST 2016

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JULY/AUGUST 2016 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

! s Ye

… g in n in g e b e h t st u j is g Winnin

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SPECIAL EDITION

ELVIS

™

PRODUCTS AVAILABLE NOW

@AMERICANCREW.COM ®

FOR MORE DETAILS CONTACT CUSTOMER SERVICES UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com IRELAND: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com ELVIS™ AND ELVIS PRESLEY™ ARE TRADEMARKS OF ABG EPE IP LLC RIGHTS OF PUBLICITY AND PERSONA RIGHTS: ELVIS PRESLEY ENTERPRISES, LLC © 2016 ABG EPE IP LLC ELVIS.COM

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“Thanks to all hairdressers and Revlon Professional for making women feel more beautiful” OLIVIA WILDE Revlon Brand Ambassador WWW.REVLONPROFESSIONAL.COM/REVLONISSIMO

NEW!

Introducing The most beautiful color in the world

“Revlonissimo Colorsmetique is like make-up for your hair. Clients love the soft, super shiny results.”

WITH HYALURONIC ACID & SOY PROTEIN

Anne Veck, Anne Veck Salons

“Beautiful high coverage colour with luxurious shine. It delivers amazing hair every time.”

Robert Masciave, Southern Hairdresser of the Year

“Healthy, rich colour, gentle on condition but completely flawless coverage.”

Michelle Griffin, Griffins Salons

For more details contact Customer Services UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com

A R A R E LU X U RY We f o u n d t h e s e c r e t t o t r a n s f o r m h a i r

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Free Beach Bag and 50ml Magical Potion with selected electrical products

For a limited period only.

6 1 0 2

Be part of the label.m success story... spanning over 7000 label.m salons in 66 countries worldwide.

Get unlimited access to one of the most dynamic and creative educators in the industry – TONI&GUY.

s t h g i l h g i h

NEW!

designer partnership Known for his humorous take on fashion – having originally found fame for his 80’s-inspired ‘catchphase’ T-shirts, label.m has been used as the official brand backstage for House of Holland men’s and women’s collections at London Fashion Week and London Collections Men.

MENS GROOMING RANGE Having debuted at LCM January 2015, followed by a global launch in March 2015, the nine piece collection has generated a huge amount of fan following whilst winning 4 leading industry awards to include the Shortlist ‘Best Styling Product’ for Deconstructor and GQ Grooming Awards for the ‘Best Shampoo’. New for this season is the exclusive label.men Card Wallet, inspired by the range’s design aesthetics and now available to clients globally with a purchase of any 2 label.men products.

LONDON COLLECTIONS MEN

Now in its ninth season – London Collections Men (LCM) showcases a host of menswear designers across the schedule.

For SS17 held in June, label.m and label.men was used behind the scenes at: Hardy Aimes, Chester Barrie, Matthew Miller, Jermyn Street St James’s and E. Tautz.

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BE THE FACE OF LABEL.M and star in our annual global brand campaign! After the overwhelming response to the first edition of the label-me competition, we are excited to announce the launch of the next contest ‘label-me: The Face of label.m 2017’!

We are calling all inspiring individuals to share your style with the world!

Get snapping!

R E N N I W 2016

.com

time to shine Introducing the finest formulas ever created by label.m!

The beautifying formula with hair-perfecting ingredients features: real black and white Diamond Dust particles, Champagne, Pearls and White Rose Petal Oil to transform the hair’s condition revealing sumptuous body, silkiness and shine. Luxurious Body Lotion will leave your skin smooth and glowing with a diamond-infused radiance.

BACKSTAGE @ Pioneering new haircare trends for 25 seasons and 40 shows per season; 2013 saw label.m become the ONLY London Fashion Week Official Haircare Product.

. . . s n o i t a r collabo summer gift

Enjoying unique relationships with top designers, label.m collaborations result in ‘sell-out’, luxurious clients gifts and promotions.

Launching this season

– a bold, super stylish Tote Bag in collaboration with master of prints Jean-Pierre Braganza.

The leading design from his SS16 ‘Whiplash’ collection evokes sounds of jazz greats with a lively array of graphics, ablaze with primary colour-pops in Cobalt Blues, Ruby Reds and Sunflower Yellows. Available to our clients globally with a purchase of any 2 label.m products.

TO FIND OUT MORE AND BE PART OF THE LABEL.M SUCCESS STORY CALL 01753 612040 WWW.LABELM.COM /labelmUK

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@ labelmUK

/labelmUK

/labelm

/UKlabelm

20/06/2016 15:49

Styled by Bb.Global Artistic Director Laurent Philippon.

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CRAFT,

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AND

COMMERCE

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M a ke h a i r d r e s s i n g h i s t o r y w i t h u s . To j o i n t h e B b. S a l o n N e t w o r k , c a l l 07 747. 6 4 8 .9 3 5 o r v i s i t b u m b l e a n d b u m b l e.c o.u k /s a l o n s .

HAIRDRESSING

Editor’s letter

65

26 40 JOIN US!

SETTLE IN GUYS; this is a bumper summer issue of passion!

We have the 95 names of our Most Wanted and It List Award UK finalists on page 34 who impressed our esteemed panel of judges. Our Grand Final is 5 September at Guildhall – and it’s already sold out! Then we have two incredible profiles illustrating how far passion can take you – our 2015 It List Fashionista, Cyndia Harvey, takes us on a journey that has seen her working with huge labels such as Gucci and Calvin Klein, while former Most Wanted Colour Expert, Jayson Gray, unveils his new Karbon Kyd Kollektion, a vision straight from his heart. Finally, we’re kicking off a campaign to ensure there’s an industry for us all to get passionate about for decades to come. This is our battle cry against the nightmare of red tape, our plea for salons to arm themselves with the knowledge they need to be fighting fit to flourish. This is Futureproof, and we need your help to make a difference. My email address is below – tell me the problems that your salon and team are facing today... and also the solutions we can share to ensure that all salons are futureproofed and fit for purpose.

Amanda Nottage Editor

Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year 2014 and 2015

amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine

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Raise a glass to the finalists of the 2016 Most Wanted and The It List Awards – turn to page 34 to find out who’s through! Our winners will be announced at the Grand Final on Monday 5 September at London’s historic Guildhall with comedian Rob Beckett as host and attended by hair and fashion VIPs. Have you signed up to the Big Hair Do? Brought to you by Layered in association with Creative HEAD, the biggest hairdressing party is back for a second year… and you’re invited!

On Wednesday 28 September, 100 salons across the UK will throw open their doors for a unique “experience” evening filled with fun, education, and stylist expertise – Hurry, places are limited. Go to page 92 for more information, or visit creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmag.com

@creativeheadmag

creativeheadmagofficial

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22/06/2016 14:42

©HIGH DEFINITION BEAUT Y GR OUP LIMITED 2016

BROWS

ALL EYES ON BROWS

Bring the UK’s #1 brow brand to your salon and increase your treatment and retail potential immediately.

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brow and make up training available exclusively at the high definition elite academies in leeds, milton keynes, glasgow and newry, n. ireland.

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July/August

WHAT’S INSIDE

84

FASHION

Charles Worthington goes on a ’70s inspired odyssey

70

CYNDIA HARVEY

The It List Fashionista talks us through her incredible rise

40 SCENE

ON THE COVER

Sinéad Kelly London – winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2016

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy wows in its 61st year

EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ANNA SAMSON

DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY

DEPUTY EDITOR

ADVERTISING

BETH DAVIE

LAURA TUCKER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

ART DIRECTOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

NICK JABBAL

DAVID HAMMOND

PUBLISHER

JOANNA ANDERSEN

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

creativeheadmag.com

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Creative HEAD Magazine

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

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STYLE YOUR CAREER Always looking for new talent, HEADMASTERS prides itself on developing new talent and bringing the best out in every hairdresser.

Call 0345 459 7782 or visit www.headmasters.com/jobs (standard call rates apply)

Most Wanted Legend Sam gets his own exhibition!

Somerset House is to host Hair by Sam McKnight, an exhibition of the session stylist’s remarkable 40-year career.

Opening on 2 November, the exhibition looks to unveil the creative process between hair and fashion.

CREATIVE HEAD

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Central Saint Martins Graduate Fashion Week

MORE THAN THREE-FIFTHS of women aged 16 to 24 and 50 per cent of all women who use haircare products, have limited their use of heat appliances in the past 12 months for fear of damaging their hair, according to new research by Mintel. A further 34 per cent of all women washed their hair less frequently for the same reason, and 22 per cent bought or used an electrical tool that claimed to be less damaging to hair.

The research also revealed women are showing increased interest in products that can limit damage, with 25 per cent of women investing in scalp protecting products.

Roshida Khanom, senior personal care analyst at Mintel, said: “Women are now showing awareness of the potentially negative impact of certain haircare routines and are taking measures. Innovations in these areas could encourage usage of haircare products among women.”

Rae Palmer, owner of WeLove Hair and Beauty, has found that more and more of her clients are interested in caring for their scalp.

She stocks Intragen by Revlon Professional in her salon and said clients are interested in products for a dry scalp and dandruff.

She added: “It’s so important for clients to feel their hair and scalp condition is cared for.

If you don’t provide the services that clients require then your competitors will.”

London College of Fashion

HAIR DAMAGE IS ‘KEY CONCERN’

Andrea Daley, Lisa Rhead and Luke Pluckrose at Graduate Fashion Week

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

John Vial at London College of Fashion

The edit

High fashion hair reıgns at Graduate Fashion Week GRADUATE FASHION WEEK is always a favourite of ours; it’s a place to not only get a glimpse of the designers everyone will be talking about, but also to see what the hair teams are creating to complement it all. At London College of Fashion’s BA show, John Vial and the Revlon Professional Backstage Team were on hand to create super-sleek ponytails with textured central sections.

“It was all about androgyny and contrasts: matte versus super shine,” said John. Meanwhile, we spotted the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Session Team backstage at the Central Saint Martins BA show. Celebrating its 15th anniversary supporting the BA show, L’Oréal Professionnel created three high fashion hair looks – scraped-back and textured, natural and messy, and elegant and sleek. This year, Graduate Fashion Week showcased the work of more than 1,000 graduates over four days, and culminated in a catwalk and awards show, supported by L’Oréal Professionnel. Led by Luke Pluckrose from Saks Hair & Beauty, and Lisa Rhead and Andrea Daley from Barbara Daley, the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Session Team created inverted braids, double ponytails, finger waves and textured wet looks.

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#CHedit MY months

THE KNOW-HOW THE INSIDE TRACK ON THE HOTTEST SALON IDEAS

How creative are you? Star colourist Casey Coleman wants to know!

CASEY COLEMAN, salon director at Ocean Hairdressing in Cardiff, is encouraging colourists to share their creative looks on social media using the hashtag #colorintensity.

The best of the bunch will make it on to the Joico Wall of Color online gallery at joico-colorintensity.com.

Recently appointed to the Joico European Colour Design Team, Casey is always pushing the boundaries within the creative world and is delighted to support the #colorintensity social media campaign. The Joico Color Intensity Mermaid Collection is the perfect range to create intense colour looks.

“I love using the new Joico Color Intensity Mermaid Collection as the range offers such a dazzling spectrum of bold, vibrant colours and the concentrated pigments are perfect for creating over-thetop vibrancy that lasts through 15 shampoos,” he explained.

“It is an easy way to channel your inner artist, because Color Intensity’s semi-permanent formulas can be applied straight from the tube, or mixed for endless possibilities, enabling your clients to always be up-to-date with the latest fashion trends.”

AHEAD

GHD 2015/16 STYLE SQUAD GOES OUT WITH A BANG THE 2015/16 ghd style squad celebrated the end of its yearlong programme with a presentation to friends and family at the ghd studio in central London. The squad consisted of: Mike Mahoney of HOB Academy; Charles Stanley of Anthony John Salon; Samuel Hankin of Headmasters; Jordan Cook of Michelle Griffin; Chloë Swift of Browns; Aliona Davy of Headmasters; Grace Dalgleish of Brooks+Brooks; Hattie Stokes of Theo Georgio; Grant Williams of Reed Hair; Tilly Penn of Not Another Salon; Jack Baker of Francesco Group; and Conor Cullen of Wonderland Hair and Beauty. A special prize was LOOK OUT for the new ghd 2016/17 style squad – to also presented to Student be announced soon!

What summer has in store for...

VICKY PANTING OUTCAST HAIR

July is filled with practising for the Paul Mitchell Gathering in August in Las Vegas, where I will be on stage for the handson style class, presenting with some amazing US stylists. I’m super excited about it! In-salon, we’re busy preparing for some VIP client evenings to launch two new Paul Mitchell lines.

NICOLA SMYTH

NICOLA SMYTH AWARD WINNING HAIR SALONS

CREATIVE HEAD LAUNCHES FUTUREPROOF CAMPAIGN CONFUSED ABOUT THE latest round of National Minimum Wage changes? Want to ensure your apprentices are a sound investment? Creative HEAD’s Futureproof campaign kicks off this month as we seek to help salons unravel the reams of red tape threatening to strangle them, covering everything from admin challenges and National Minimum and National Living Wages to chair renters and tax. The campaign will culminate in a themed session at Salon Smart 2017.

Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said: “Having a feel for what’s around the corner can only help salons and barbershops prepare for the future. Helping salons adapt to change is a key part of what we do, so that’s why we’re supporting Creative HEAD’s Futureproof campaign.”

We’re heading to Italy to do the hair for a client’s wedding.

It’s then on to the Color Zoom Summer Party, before we welcome Natalie Cara Jones, Goldwell Global Color Zoom 2015 winner, to the Nicola Smyth Leamington Spa team.

We fell for the clever Perfect Curl when it launched three years ago and now Her Majesty is a fan, too! Conair Group, the firm behind BaByliss PRO, has won The Queen’s Award, the UK’s highest accolade for business innovation, for its Auto Curl system.

FOR MORE Go to page 48 for our first Featureproof installment – this issue we tackle the biggest issues surrounding apprenticeships

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G CU ET ED T T H T G IN E E G E

R F O R PE P SU

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H R L A TO N O M

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Q R R O T PE IP CL

E The new Super Motor Clipper from BaByliss PRO has a supercharged high-torque pivot motor for power and speed, Japanese steel blades for clean, precision cutting, and a sleek well balanced design for easy control; making it a match for all hair types and styles.

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SLICK GEEZERS AT TOPMAN

Images courtesy of Fudge Professional

Images courtesy of Toni&Guy

RAVERS AT HENRY HOLLAND

CREATIVE HEAD

21/06/2016 15:51

Images courtesy of Bumble and bumble

#CHedit

BOYS WILL BE GIRLS AT CHARLES JEFFREY

CYBER GEEKS AT BOY LONDON

Images courtesy of Revlon Professional

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN S/S17

CREATIVE HEAD

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A WAVE OF STYLE tribes swept through the capital for London Collections: Men S/S17, as shows tailored boys into gangs, with haircuts for every subculture. It was Haçienda days at Henry Holland, where Kevin Luchmun for Toni&Guy transported models back to the dancefloor at Manchester’s most infamous club. With sharp lines and intricate patterns, Leigh Keates for Bumble and bumble at BOY London took inspiration from circuit boards and coding to create a group of hackers with a nerdy edge. The staycation reigned at Topman, where Matt Mulhall for Fudge Professional celebrated the Great British seaside and the boys who embrace it; from teddy boys to mods and ’80s lads. The only thing that Charles Jeffrey’s models had in common with each other was their individuality. John Vial for Revlon Professional used hairpieces to build androgynous styles.

Blunt, dark cuts were lined up alongside pink bobs and bleached out lengths – but the real showstoppers were the waist-length disco curls that screamed ‘anything goes’. If LC:M is anything to go by, men’s hair is now more than just a look – it’s a complete identity.

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WIN! We have six sets to give away – enter at creativeheadmag.com

Denman is launching Panasonic Professional Clippers and Trimmers in the UK. Say hello to the GP80 Clipper and GP21 Trimmer, with Japanese blades and long-lasting batteries.

For soft waves and C-shaped curls, the Curvy Double Effect with Titanium from Maximiliano Centini’s UKI range, designed and engineered in Italy in collaboration with Maletti, is perfect. It uses ceramic stones and chips inside for a longer life and makes it extra safe, too!

RRP £97

020 7384 1450 designedforhair.com

New from Osmo, Chromaplex is a three-step treatment for use with professional salon colours to help strengthen hair fibres, minimise breakage and improve condition.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0141 812 5000

RRP £84 (GP21), £210 (GP80) 0800 262509

osmo.uk.com

denmanpro.com

An adored part of the Eye&Brow Palette, High Definition has unveiled a Brow Wax compact, perfect to set brows in place all day long, or mixed with coloured eyebrow powders to recreate finer stroke effects.

It’s undone, it’s effortless, it’s oh-so blooming chic… and it's what many style conscious clients are always trying to achieve – that je ne sais quoi of French Girl Hair. Think Eva Green, Léa Seydoux, Charlotte Gainsbourg – there’s an insouciance that we just can’t get enough of. Well, help clients capture that French magic with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new Messy Cliché texture spray (it’s Cannes in a can) and pliable cream French Froissé, both from the Tecni.ART range. Bardot tops and Birkin bags at the ready!

RRP £12.50

0844 801 3217

beautyinhighdefinition.com

Give your colour range a makeover with new-look Ion, an extensive range of permanent, semi-permanent, pastel, colour flash and hi-lift hues in more than 120 shades.

0845 600122

RRP £14.99 EACH

RRP £15.95 0845 071 2326

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

joicoeurope.com

New from Electric Head Jog’s Titanium Gold range are the pencil wand, fab for tight but smooth coils, and the Boho Styler – perfect for that undone beachy wave so many clients crave.

Both available from Hair Tools.

IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 980 9961

RRP £19.95 EACH 01924 466999

salon-services.com

hairtools.co.uk

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Got clients keen to give co-wash a go? Tell them about whipped cleansing conditioner Co+Wash from Joico, available in Color, Moisture and Curl.

There’s a tasty new look for Ice Crème Ammonia-Free Powder Lightener from Affinage – it’s now available in aluminium foil bags that are re-sealable and has yummy fragrances like apple and mint!

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111 affinage.com

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:45

The Iconic Collection by Angelo Seminara, Davines artistic director, and Edoardo Paludo, Davines international colour creative ambassador. Photography: Jenny Hands. Make-up: Laura Dominique. Styling: Nicco Torelli

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

LAUNCH OF THE SUMMER

CONSUMERS MAY NOT always appreciate this, but the industry knows that a brilliant colourist is akin to a maths whizz fused with a modern artist.

From balancing ratios with surgical precision to painting freehand, technicians are terrific. And now, Davines has revamped its Mask colour line by adding Vibrachrom technology to make their lives that little bit easier. It’s ultra-conditioning, delivers extraordinary shine and the colour lasts longer and penetrates more uniformly. And, with only one mixing ratio and only one processing time, Mask with Vibrachrom is a technician’s dream, with 81 shades and activators at 5, 10, 20, 30 and 40 volumes to boot. Colourists rejoice!

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3301 5449 davines.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... DRYERS Have a need for speed?

The BaByliss PRO Rapido has a Ferrari-designed motor, for a high-speed airflow and smooth, fast styling.

… And the high speed fun doesn’t end there – the ItaliaBRAVA dryer from BaByliss PRO is powered by a MaxLife PRO brushless motor, designed in collaboration with Ferrari, too!

RRP £90 0370 513 3191

RRP £120 0370 513 3191

babylisspro.co.uk

babylisspro.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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#CHedit

Inside story CURIOUS COMB BLACKHEATH, LONDON

WHEN SELENA PANG unveiled the original Curious Comb in 2009, her ’40s theatre interior was considered rather innovative and unique, but by 2015 was starting to look, in her words, “a little commonplace”. She was also looking for a larger space in a busier location, which meant the opportunity for a new look. This time the salon has a cleaner feel, still with a vintage vibe but with a modern twist. Selena’s father and mentor had owned a dry cleaning business and she was keen to incorporate an element of it in the design – hence the ’50s South Beach launderette theme! The reception, which is the focal point, was the result of months of research. Armstrong Commercial Laundry Systems was fascinated by Selena’s concept and supplied the machines, while the vintage irons and ironing boards were bought from online auction sites and the Takara Belmont chairs were customised to Selena’s specifications. The hard work is paying off already – revenue for the first six months of the year is up 35 per cent.

HOT BUYS

now open

BACK FOR GOOD

Takara Belmont has taken one of its bestselling styling chairs and transformed it into a backwash.

The RS Adria II is available in 14 colours and features a gel-filled neck cushion, a free-swivelling, ergonomic showerhead with retracting cord and thermostatic control.

Price: £2,600 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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LUKAS BARBERS EXETER This Devon barbershop promises beer, rum, gaming, clothes, music and the sharpest cut in town!

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:46

“

The best thing about Direct colours are their versatility and ease to apply. You can use them directly on the hair (no developer required), mix them together to create your own bespoke look, or mix the colours with a RUSK conditioner to create softer pastel tones.

”

Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador

A bold palette of vibrant shades.

Get creative with these incredible intermixable colours.

• Apply directly from tube, no developer required

Available exclusively at

• Use with Deepshine Hydrate Conditioner to create pastel shades ®

• Lasts up to 20 shampoos • Ammonia-free

BAB00189_Pro_CreativeHead_285x220.indd 1

For further information visit www.salon-services.com

20/06/2016 14:03

THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE

THE SALON LYNNE WARRINGTON MICHAELJOHN

Sometimes managing your self-employed stylists can be tricky as they are really operating their own business within yours.

Technically they should not work five days if they are self-employed and should have their own private clients as well.

Also, you have to be very careful that they don’t steal your existing clients.

When it comes to chair renters, it can be even more complicated as they take their own money for services, but pay rent out of that income. Chair renters must also pay their own VAT while working on VAT registered premises.

They are meant to have their own entrance and separate washbasin and are not allowed to use your staff so it’s important the terms and conditions for both the self-employed staff and chair renters are really clear to prevent issues or problems along the way.

IS YOUR CHAIR RENTER REALLY AN ‘EMPLOYEE’?

THERE’S ONGOING DISCOURSE on the question of chair renters – are they good for business, helping you keep overheads low by avoiding holiday pay and National Minimum Wage requirements? Or are they poor for team building and brand control? However, there’s now a bigger, and potentially expensive, issue to be concerned with.

HMRC is is taking an increasingly tough line with businesses found to be wrongly classifying individuals as being self-employed.

Research by accountancy firm UHY Hacker Young has found that HMRC collected an additional £737m in the past financial year through tax investigations, with payroll mistakes, especially around individuals wrongly declared to be self-employed, a major source of the problems. Small businesses were particularly hard-hit, accounting for more than half (£373.4m) of the additional money collected, despite being responsible for only 11 per cent of total UK payroll.

Roy Maugham, tax partner at UHY Hacker Young, admits: “SMEs are being chased for a disproportionate amount of underpaid payroll tax. But much of the underpaid tax is due to genuine errors. This strongly suggests the government needs to simplify its systems to help SMEs avoid mistakes.”

Chair renters are technically self-employed, but salons must be eagle-eyed, so that such freelancers don’t

inadvertently tip over into “employed” status.

“Chair renters are exactly who HMRC will be gunning for, although I guess many hairdressers also use casual people (such as students) on a fairly regular basis, so there will always be a problem if PAYE is not applied properly,” continues Roy. “The terms of the contract between the engager and the individual will be crucial, as will those between the customer and their payee, but HMRC will also look at several of the practicalities.”

These are, for example, terms or arrangements for holidays, sickness, telephone list, security passes, booking arrangements (including how the telephone is answered), but most particularly substitution or whether the freelancer also works elsewhere. “Substance in the arrangements could be key,” he warns.

“It’s all rather grey and something of a minefield – the face of our UK business seems to be changing and following the US model of ‘booth-rental’,” admits Richard Ashforth, owner at Saco. “We have several units in Canada and the US and we don’t do ‘booth-rental’, however some of the team are technically self-employed.

“To my mind, self-employed means a contract worker; someone we employ to carry out a job and they invoice us for their services. It certainly is important for the UK to fully understand the requirements of the changing employment market.”

See page 33 for more

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CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:47

!

R INIE H S AND HER T O SMO OKS O L HAIR

TO R E TA I L TA N G L E T E E Z E R I N YO U R SALON PLEASE CALL 020 7274 6128 OR E-MAIL SALES@TANGLETEEZER.COM

Gone Tomorrow Is your

business

craving more customers, a more motivated team, and more profits?

3·6·5

can help you.

“Headmasters has been involved with 3·6·5 since 1984, being one of its founder members.

Today we still find the industry specific education provided by 3·6·5 to be invaluable for both our managers and franchisees.”

John Sanders, Chairman of the Headmasters Salon Group

Providing powerful, results-focused education for salon owners, managers and their teams since 1982; 3·6·5 has helped salon owners including Lee Stafford and the Headmasters salon group to run more profitable businesses.

The Salon Management Masterclass

is your introduction to 3·6·5.

Unlock the potential of your business with this industry-leading education programme.

Successful Business Coaching for Salons

www.365hair.com 0845 659 0015

FIND YOUR TRUE PROFIT OWNERS NEED TO WORK

ON THEIR BUSINESS, TOO KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

THIS COULD BE the most thought-provoking article that I have ever written as I believe that we could be on the threshold of seeing many salons going out of business as costs increase and profits decline. I use the word ‘business’ carefully. A business is something that produces an income for its owner which is in excess of what they would earn if they were employed within their own ‘business’.

In my years of working with salon owners I have come across many who are the highest income producers in their salons and, quite often, with their names above the door.

They spend their lives working in their business instead of on their business and very often they earn less than if they paid themselves in exactly the same way that they paid their top income-producing stylists.

I always recommend a salon owner looks at the profits shown on their accounts and then deducts a theoretical salary that they would have had to pay themselves as a stylist. The remaining profit is what I refer to as the True Profit for the stresses and strains, the time and personal investment that they make into their business. This True Profit is where the real value in their business lies and where the value is if and when they want to sell. So why is this so important? There are currently around 40,000 salons in this country as well as all the mobile and freelance hairdressers, and the number appears to be growing. Yet often salons seem to be determined to win business on price and not quality. They place more value on the haircut than the client

CREATIVE HEAD

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THE ENDS To book

your place or to discover more about how 3·6·5 could help your business, call 0845 659 0015 or visit 365hair.com

experience. So what’s wrong with that, you might ask?

Well firstly, research shows us that clients assume they will get a good haircut otherwise they wouldn’t cross your threshold. They focus on the experience, advice and information they receive and how special they are made to feel. True value is in the experience, not simply the price.

Secondly, salon owners are in one of the toughest climates ever regarding the costs and obligations of running a business and employing people.

National Minimum Wage will climb in only one direction.

Living Wage is here to stay and, I believe, will eventually embrace more age groups. My money is on Workplace Pensions becoming obligatory as the current voluntary process eventually fails to solve the government’s ongoing pensions funding challenges. Yet many salon owners still fail to base their pricing on their costs and the profits that they need to generate, choosing to merely reflect the prices charged by their competitors. So what would any other retail business do? Well it’s simple really: the cost to source or create product + the cost to market and deliver product + the profit required + the VAT = retail price. If any of the components change, then so does the retail price.

If you start from the retail price and work backwards, then the most likely area to suffer is the profit. Many costs are out of your control, so unless you start cutting corners you must make your product worth what you need to charge. If I can get a great haircut in a barbershop for £15 then why should I pay £40? After all, I know what the haircut is worth to me. It’s worth £15 because that’s what I can get it for. So if you want me to pay more, the experience has to be worth the extra.

No one goes to the Ritz for the tea, cakes and sandwiches.

You can buy those anywhere or even make them yourself.

They happily pay for the experience of ‘Tea at the Ritz’.

3·6·5 provides a friendly, fun and encouraging learning environment where you will spend time with other, like-minded salon owners.

Over the course of a day and a half of education, our 3·6·5 coaches will focus on the three P’s within your business: people, productivity and profit.

We will share thought provoking ideas and introduce new systems enabling you to look at your business from a fresh and positive perspective.

Join us at a Salon Management Masterclass to discover: • How to understand when it is safe to raise your prices • How to increase your profitability • How to understand what truly motivates your team • How to develop your management mindset • How discounting could destroy your profits • How to create the perfect team culture.

Prices start at just £199+VAT per person.

PLEASE GIVE KEN FEEDBACK Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com

Successful Business Coaching for Salons

www.365hair.com 0845 659 0015 CREATIVE HEAD

30-31_Ken West JulAug.indd 2

22/06/2016 14:48

#BusinessEdit PAUL WINDLE

WINDLE & MOODIE

QA

TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES! WHY DID YOU CREATE A PRODUCT RANGE? Because in my opinion, a high-quality niche British brand didn’t exist. It’s an extension to our salon’s creative culture, originating from our curiosity, fascination with hair and pursuit for innovation – our salon is a lab where we experiment.

WHAT BENEFITS ARE THERE IN STOCKING YOUR RANGE? We offer a 100 per cent mark-up, which gives salons the opportunity to increase profitability. We offer salons exclusivity in their area and our products can’t be found cheaper online or elsewhere, since we have a strong control of distribution. We have a 24-hour guaranteed delivery time and our Retail Specialists help build sales.

HOW DOES YOUR EDUCATION OFFERING STAND OUT? It spans the full spectrum required by any truly independent-thinking salon: from conceptual dressing, cutting and colour, to motivating young talent, to brand and business building.

We also offer Harvard-like business training for salon owners and managers.

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ZOË IRWIN

What has been your career highlight so far?

@beautyjournoSJ I’ve had many, but winning Most Wanted’s Hair Icon in 2012 has to be one of the best! When they announced my name I was completely overwhelmed. I felt that my hard work and dedication had paid off, and the sacrifices I made along the way were all worth it in that moment.

You’re known for your platform work at live events – do you still get nervous?

How do you prepare yourself for this kind of work?

Marcus King @hookerandyoung I’ve spent time with a voice coach, who has really helped my presentation and on-stage skills.

It’s taught me how to engage with the audience, how to look up around the room and how to project my words. I’ve also learned to think about my nerves as excitement and turn the fear into a positive experience. Breathing exercises are big for me too – you’ll often find me doing them on the floor 10 minutes before a show!

How can more women get to the top of the hair industry?

@beautyjournoSJ It’s all about determination. I’ve had career knockbacks but it’s important not to give up and understand that everyone’s journey is different and personal to them. Be yourself, don’t mimic others and play to your strengths. I think my ‘secret weapon’ and key to success has been to always stay fresh and relevant.

I never stop learning and have done many different courses over the years. From journalism to trend forecasting, all of which have helped my career in some way. For me, it’s not about being at the top. I’ve just always wanted to be great at what I do, work with inspiring people, continue to work for great brands like ghd and keep moving forward.

Next issue: Tim Hartley. Email Amanda@alfol.co.uk or tweet @creativeheadmag

A BREW FOR YOU

BUILDING BRAND LOYALTY isn’t always easy, but Most Wanted Best New Salon 2015 winners, Anderson’s Hair in Glasgow, has got a clever little plan in play.

Every week, co-owner Keith Anderson pops along to his local cafe, The Wee Guy’s, and gives them £20. In return, the baristas select caffeine-guzzling clients to receive a “free coffee, a gift from Anderson’s Hair”. It’s a lovely little surprise that starts a conversation about the brand and is proving popular with the latte-loving locals.

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:49

#BusinessEdit

HMRC GOES AFTER SMALL FIRMS SMALL FIRMS ARE being warned HM Revenue & Customs is taking an increasingly tough line with businesses found wrongly to be classifying individuals as being self-employed, in a move that could have ramifications for salon chair renters.

Research by accountancy firm UHY Hacker Young has concluded HMRC collected an additional £737m in the last financial year through tax investigations, with payroll mistakes, especially around individuals wrongly declared to be self-employed, a key focus of activity.

Small businesses were particularly hard-hit, accounting for more than half (£373.4m) of the additional money collected, despite being responsible for just 11 per cent (£96bn) of total UK payroll.

If HMRC decides an individual should be classified as an employee rather as self-employed, the firm becomes liable for that individual’s National Insurance payments as well as, often, higher tax charges.

Roy Maugham, tax partner at UHY Hacker Young, said: “SMEs are being chased for a disproportionate amount of underpaid payroll tax, compared with their larger counterparts. But much of the underpaid tax is due to genuine errors. This strongly suggests the government needs to simplify its systems to help SMEs avoid mistakes.”

The NHF Guide to Chair Renting is available free to members at nhf.info

ENTERPRISE HELP GETS GREEN LIGHT

The launch of a new government “Enterprise Allowance” to help those who are on benefits or out of work start up their own business has been welcomed by the NHF. Under the scheme, anyone aged 18 or over and in receipt of Jobseeker’s Allowance, Employment and Support Allowance, Income Support or Universal Credit will get help if they want to start up a business.

“A scheme such as this has the potential to offer support to people who might otherwise be unable to pursue their dream,” said NHF president Agnes Leonard. “If it helps people to start afresh and turn their circumstances around, that is positive.”

‘Workie’ of HMRC’s workplace pensions advertising campaign

BRITAIN’S BEST IS OPEN FOR ENTRIES

9 out of 10 joining pension schemes JUST 10 PER CENT of employees actively choose to opt out of being enrolled into a workplace pension, research from insurer Aviva has claimed.

The vast majority of small and micro salons are expected to begin offering pensions during 2016 and 2017, due to the introduction of obligatory workplace pensions. Not being able to afford the contributions was the most common reason given by employees who chose to opt out. Of these, nearly a quarter (24 per cent) also said they felt it was “too late” for them to start saving, even though 13 per cent were only aged 25 to 34.

Latest figures from The Pensions Regulator, meanwhile, have suggested some 96 per cent of “first wave” small employers have successfully gone through the pensions auto-enrolment process, with 160,000 employers now offering pensions to some six million staff.

THE NHF’S FLAGSHIP national competition, Britain’s Best, is open for 2016 entries.

The final will be held on 13 November at the British Motor Museum in Gaydon, Warwickshire. The categories are: l Blow-dry – Consumer Fashion Style (students and trainees) l Blow-dry – Consumer Fashion Style l Male Fashion Look – On Trend (students and trainees) l Male Fashion Look – On Trend l Hair-Up – Glamorous Night on the Town (students and trainees) l Hair-Up – Glamorous Night on the Town l Fantasy Total Look l Female Fashion Look – On Trend l Bridal Make-up l The Bride – Conventional or Non-Conventional l Colour of the Day

For further information and full details on how to enter, go to britainsbest.me

For more information and to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD

33_NHF JulyAug.indd 1

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SALON AWARDS BEST SALON TEAM SPONSORED BY

2016

KATIE PRESTON HAIR & BEAUTY FAREHAM MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR LEICESTER RCNQ MANCHESTER REVIEW PETERSFIELD THE GALLERY TUNBRIDGE WELLS

BEST LOCAL SALON SPONSORED BY

CHARLIE TAYLOR HAIR & BEAUTY PERTH GEORGE’S HAIRDRESSING LEICESTER LEAH DURRANT CHERTSEY SALLY MONTAGUE HAIR GROUP DUFFIELD SALON CENTRAL NOTTINGHAM

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE SPONSORED BY

6 0A1 2 S T S I L N FI

D E C N U O ANN H ANNUAL T 6 1 ’S D EA H E IV T EA ENTRIES TO CR EEN ASSESSED B E V A H S D R A W A ED MOST WANT S TO THE S LA G A E IS A R .

IN E R AND THE SCORES A LENTS FROM ACROSS THE UK EXTRAORDINARY TA S TO OUR 2016 FINALISTS! – CONGRATULATION

MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR LEICESTER NOT ANOTHER SALON LONDON PERCY & REED (EAST) LONDON RUFFIANS LONDON (COVENT GARDEN) SIXTH SENSE SALON SUTTON COLDFIELD

BEST NEW SALON SPONSORED BY

DANIEL GRANGER HAIRDRESSING NORTHAMPTON NASHWHITE LEAMINGTON SPA NOT ANOTHER SALON LONDON STIL LONDON THE BARBERSHIP SOUTHSEA

Follow the action! creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted 34-37_MWIT.indd 1

22/06/2016 10:26

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

HAIR TREND SPONSORED BY

SPONSORED BY

NEIL BARTON NEIL BARTON HAIRDRESSING JONATHAN ANDREW JAMIE STEVENS HAIR CHRIS FOSTER THE REFINERY MARCUS KING HOOKER & YOUNG DANIEL RYMER ROBINSON DANIEL RYMER MALE GROOMING KY WILSON THE SOCIAL

SAM BURNETT HARE & BONE ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ERROL DOUGLAS KEN PICTON KEN PICTON SALON CALLUM STANDEN-MAY THE EGG

AWARD FOR INNOVATION

THE

STARS WILL SHINE

HAIRDRESSING’S MOST SPECTACULAR NIGHT OUT

SPONSORED BY

CREATIVE TALENT SPONSORED BY

SAM BURNETT HARE & BONE ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ERROL DOUGLAS KEN PICTON KEN PICTON SALON LUKE PLUCKROSE SAKS COS SAKKAS TONI&GUY

BUSINESS THINKER SPONSORED BY

SOPHIA HILTON FOR NOT ANOTHER SALON PHIL JACKSON FOR BRAVO EMAIL MARKETING EMMA & CHRIS SIMMONS FOR INNOVATIVE INCENTIVE MATTHEW SOCKALINGUM FOR THE BLOW-DRY PASS TONY WOOD FOR MAGIC SCISSORS

SESSION STYLIST SPONSORED BY

LORENZO COLANGELO THE GALLERY JULIA GAUDIO ELAJÉ HAIR & BEAUTY SOPHIA HILTON NOT ANOTHER SALON JANE WILLIAMS REED HAIR MARK WOOLLEY ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

COLOUR EXPERT SPONSORED BY

SYD HAYES LUKE HERSHESON EUGENE SOULEIMAN ANTHONY TURNER ADAM REED

HAIR ICON SPONSORED BY

KATIE ALLAN CHARLES WORTHINGTON PAUL DENNISON KEN PICTON SALON ROBERT EATON RUSSELL EATON SOPHIA HILTON NOT ANOTHER SALON JOHN SPANTON TREVOR SORBIE

DUFFY DARREN AMBROSE ERROL DOUGLAS MBE ZOË IRWIN SAM MCKNIGHT GEORGE NORTHWOOD ANGELO SEMINARA EUGENE SOULEIMAN ADAM REED JOSH WOOD

05/09/2016 GUILDHALL LONDON

SOLD OUT! LIST ONLY WAITING 610940 01434 CALL 01434 610940 CALL TO BOOK TICKETS

event

2016

@creativeheadmag #MWIT16 34-37_MWIT.indd 2

22/06/2016 10:26

201 6

THE RISING STAR KIRSTEN BASSETT ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING

LOUISE FOARD TREVOR SORBIE SALONS

DARCIE HARVEY

ON IT!

AND AGED 30 GO-GETTING, TRENDSET TING THE SHORTLIST AND UNDER – LOOK WHO’S ON LIST AWARDS! FOR CREATIVE HEAD’S 2016 IT

om/theitlist creativeheadmag.c

BROOKS+BROOKS

CALLUM HEWETT KEN PICTON SALON

SOPHIA TSILIDIS HEADMASTERS

THE FASHIONISTA ISSEY HYDE LONDON HAIR HUB

PABLO KÜMIN EASTON REGAL

MICHAEL O’GORMAN TAYLOR TAYLOR LONDON

TOMMY TAYLOR ENA SALON

KIERAN TUDOR JOSH WOOD ATELIER

THE ENTREPRENEUR SAMANTHA CUSICK SAMANTHA CUSICK LONDON

ROB CZLAPKA RCNQ

SOPHIA HILTON NOT ANOTHER SALON

STUART WHITELAW MESART

KY WILSON THE SOCIAL

Follow the action!

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22/06/2016 14:50

THE VISIONARY EMMANUEL ESTEBAN ANNE VECK

MARLON HAWKINS BROOKS+BROOKS

ASHLEIGH HODGES PAUL FALLTRICK CREATIVE

JESSICA NEIL KH HAIR

SOPHIE SPRINGETT TONI&GUY

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS GRAND FINAL 05/09/2016

GUILDHALL, LONDON

THE IT GIRL ROSIE BINNS ETHOS HAIRDRESSING

AMY FISH GEORGE NORTHWOOD

HARRIET MULDOON BLUE TIT LONDON

LEIGH-ANNE REGAN INDY HAIRDRESSING

MELISSA TIMPERLEY SASSOON SALON

THE IT GUY TOM GILLING TAYLOR TAYLOR LONDON

SOLD OUT!

WAITING LIST ONLY CALL 01434 610940 SINGLE TICKET £220 �PLUS VAT�

TABLE OF 12 £2,400 �PLUS VAT� VIP TABLE OF 12 £2,800 �PLUS VAT�

JOSHUA GOLDSWORTHY GOLDSWORTHY’S

PATRICK MCDOUGALL RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL

TOMMY TAYLOR ENA SALON

KY WILSON

HE’S HOSTING! BRIT-HOT COMIC ROB BECKETT! @robbeckettcomic

THE SOCIAL

#MWIT16 @creativeheadmag

34-37_MWIT.indd 4

event

2016

22/06/2016 10:27

MIRRORSMOOTH™

NEW MIRRORSMOOTH

®

FLAWLESSLY SMOOTH. BRILLIANT SHINE.

FLAWLESSLY SMOOTH, BRILLIANT SHINE.

A proven system that works from the outside in to smooth the cuticle, reduce frizz, add intense shine and protect against thermal damage.

91% 67% *

SMOOTHER HAIR

*

LESS FRIZZ FOR UP TO 24 HOURS

2X

*

MORE GLOSS

* When using the system of Awapuhi Wild Ginger® MirrorSmooth® Shampoo, Conditioner and High Gloss Primer, as compared to untreated hair. Products were tested by an established, independent third-party laboratory.

To discover Hawaiian heritage and transformative technology, call 0845 659 0011 or visit paul-mitchell.co.uk Find us on

and

at Paul Mitchell UK #AWAPUHI

Royston Blythe

Scene Romauld SA

Nick Grimshaw

Urban Retreat

FOR AN INCREDIBLE 61st year, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy celebrated the very best in UK professional colour skills and creativity, delivering a cornucopia of on-trend, fashion-forward looks that will delight technicians and clients alike.

This year’s Grand Final took place at The O2 Intercontinental Hotel in London, with more than 1,500 of the industry’s biggest names present. The two-pronged catwalk was a breathtaking focal point of lighting, stage effects, music and hair talent, all presided over by DJ and former X Factor judge, Nick Grimshaw (sporting a bleached barnet). He was joined onstage for prize-giving duties by industry A-listers including Michelle Thompson from the Francesco Group; Paul Dennison from Ken Picton; Fowler 35’s Darren Fowler, and Most Wanted Hair Icon 2015 Adam Reed from Percy & Reed. Once the winners were revealed, the party moved onto the dance floor, with DJ and blogger Zoe London on the decks.

But for those 2016 winners the fun is just starting – they’ll now embark on a year filled with once-in-a-lifetime projects such as creative photoshoots and coverage in a women’s glossy, as well as a wealth of invaluable PR support and opportunities along the way. We can’t wait to see more!

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Simon Webster Hair

Glory days

Zoe London

L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

Vae Hair

Sinéad Kelly

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:51

Urban Retreat

NashWhite

Sinéad Kelly

Simon Webster Hair

Sinéad Kelly

Peter Mark Lisburn Conrad Blandford

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD

Blushes Hairdressing

FIRST PLACE Sinéad Kelly London SECOND PLACE Simon Webster Hair, Brighton THIRD PLACE Blushes Hairdressing, Gloucester

Peter Mark Forest Side

NashWhite

And the winners are…

L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE AWARD FIRST PLACE: Urban Retreat, London SECOND PLACE: Laura Leigh Hair & Beauty, Cheltenham

MIZANI AFRO LOOK AWARD PETER MARK, Forest Side, Belfast

THE L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD – JUDGES’ FAVOURITE GRACE DALGLEISH, Brooks+Brooks

CREATIVE HEAD

40-47_Scene JulyAug.indd 2

Grace Dalgleish

Blushes Hairdressing

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY REGIONAL WINNERS NORTHERN IRELAND – Peter Mark, Lisburn SCOTLAND – Romuald SA, Elderslie NORTH EAST – Conrad Blandford, Sheffield NORTH WEST – Royston Blythe, Shrewsbury MIDLANDS – NashWhite, Warwick EASTERN – Vae Hair, Diss SOUTH WEST – Blushes Hairdressing, Gloucester SOUTHERN – Simon Webster Hair, Brighton LONDON – Sinéad Kelly London

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Brooks+Brooks L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

GREATEST SHOWS

on earth AS MUCH AS the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final is about the winning salons, it’s also a wonderful opportunity to feast your eyes on the imaginative and creative masterpieces crafted exclusively for this iconic event by L’Oréal Portfolio salons. This year, the Rush Art Team and Brooks+Brooks were in the spotlight to deliver the mesmerising shows… and neither crew disappointed! Rush opened the night with Virtual Circus, a jaw-dropping presentation of larger-than-life characters transposed from virtual images into reality, all showcasing the brand’s signature cut, colour and editorial styling.

A daring presentation from Brooks+Brooks eschewed conventions from the start. With the first models’ footsteps echoing across the darkened room in place of a musical soundtrack, the theme of pared back ‘reticence’ (through earthy dust, dramatic wind and clinical metallic spikiness) was stark, stirring and utterly compelling.

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CREATIVE HEAD

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Rush Art Team CREATIVE HEAD

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Richard Phillipart at The Boutique Atelier

Headmasters Headmasters

Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer

Haringtons Andrew Mulvenna

Headmasters

Electric London

L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

Captivated

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Haringtons

CELEBRATING THE BRAND’S French home alongside the edge of London, the L’Oréal Professionnel Collective was asked to expertly blend fashion, art and cultural references from two vibrant capitals in ‘Paris Meets London’.

The Collective comprised Richard Phillipart at The Boutique Atelier; Electric London; Headmasters; Haringtons; Andrew Mulvenna; and Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer, and it spoiled the audience with a true fusion of styles, tastes, takes and visions. Elements of punk, goth, cyber and couture were melded in a kaleidoscopic vision of the cities’ backstreets coming alive and – in the looks from Andrew Mulvenna, literally lighting up. Simply breathtaking.

Haringtons

BY THE COLLECTIVE

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 16:00

Andrew Mulvenna

Haringtons

Headmasters

Richard Phillipart at The Boutique Atelier

Haringtons CREATIVE HEAD

40-47_Scene JulyAug.indd 6

Richard Phillipart at The Boutique Atelier

Andrew Mulvenna

Jonny Engstrom at Guy Kremer

Electric London

The L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final in numbers…

37 HOURS OF PRODUCTION SET-UP 44 METRES OF CATWALK 60 CREW 80 MAKE-UP ARTISTS 123 PAIRS OF HIGH HEELS 162 HAIR PIECES 200 HAIRDRESSERS 480 BOTTLES OF CHAMPAGNE 750 BOTTLES OF TECNI.ART

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21/06/2016 16:28

Kim Rance, Cassie Steer and Syd Hayes

MODERN

marvels CREATIVE HEAD WELCOMED a throng of hair and fashion industry professionals for the second annual Coterie: In Session event in London. From learning how to prep a credible fake fringe to updating the beehive for the 21st century, The Coterie: In Session, in association with BaByliss PRO, was stuffed with celebrity, on-set and backstage trends, tips and techniques. Session stars Kim Rance and Syd Hayes delivered a two-hour masterclass in modern hair, hosted by InStyle beauty director Cassie Steer. A packed audience saw Syd update the ultra-long hair plait he’d created on Karlie Kloss for Glamour by adding day-glo hairpieces – inspired by Sophia Hilton’s colour work at Not Another Salon (good to see a session stylist cite a salon professional for inspiration!).

Kim showed how she “cuts hair like a session stylist”, razoring and chopping into her model’s locks to create a thoroughly wearable, “self-cut looking haircut” that is totally now. Cassie ended the evening by challenging both stylists to deliver her InStyle readers’ most popular request: wedding hair for cool girls. Suitably inspired, our audience dispersed into the night with a head full of ideas to take back to the salon and the must-have electrical tool du jour – a BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 32mm curling tong – under their arm.

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21/06/2016 16:28

WATCH our videos from Coterie: In Session at creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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YOUR BUSINESS IS UNDER THREAT.

YOUR SALON 48

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NOW

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21/06/2016 16:37

#FutureProof

WE’RE ON THE PRECIPICE OF MASSIVE CHANGES TO BRITISH HAIRDRESSING. AS NEW APPRENTICESHIP SCHEMES ARE INTRODUCED, MORE COMPLICATED TAX SYSTEMS COME INTO PLAY AND RISES TO BASIC WAGES ARE LEVIED, SALONS ARE STRUGGLING TO KEEP A GRIP ON THE RED TAPE... IT’S THREATENING TO OVERWHELM THEM AND POSSIBLY WIPE OUT MANY BUSINESSES FROM THE UK HIGH STREET. IT’S TIME TO TAKE ACTION AS THE LAST attendee left Creative HEAD’s business networking event, Salon Smart 2016, it was apparent that there was a growing sense of unease among owners and managers over the day-to-day running of their salons.

It’s something the National Hairdressers’ Federation is witnessing too: rising wages and pension contributions will affect profitability unless salons adjust their prices and reduce costs elsewhere. Independent salons face increasing competition from chains and franchises, similar to what we’ve seen with high street coffee shops. And, perhaps most importantly, all salons are facing difficulties in recruiting high quality apprentices.

Recruitment is proving to be a particular headache for salon owners – where did all the eager, bright-as-a-button 16-year-olds go? And then, when a salon does take on an apprentice, the lack of financial commitment on their part means getting them to not only be motivated but to stay on at your salon, can be a battle in itself.

With all this to contend with, is it any wonder that half of all new businesses don’t survive beyond five years? The UK tax system, business rates and too much red tape are all reasons business owners give for their operations failing.

And the reams of red tape are only going to get longer as the government aims to increase the National Living Wage to £9 per hour by 2020 and introduce a new tax system that could see small businesses forced to file tax returns four times a year, instead of just once every 12 months. Salons are being strangled, profits are plummeting and changes to apprenticeship funding mean salons keen to invest in the

CREATIVE HEAD

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younger generation don’t actually know how much they could end up spending on them.

According to Habia, there are currently 40,000 hair and beauty salons in Britain – but how many will there be in five or 10 years’ time? It is this question that prompted Creative HEAD to say ‘enough is enough’. The issues affecting the future of UK salon businesses need to be addressed right now, which is why we’re launching Futureproof. This campaign is a call to arms to try to tackle the key issues affecting salon owners and managers today. By identifying all the ways you can ‘Futureproof’ your salon, we hope that when we next ask what will the industry look like in five years’ time, you can answer with confidence that the future is bright.

In each issue between now and Salon Smart 2017, we will tackle a different subject head on. We begin with recruitment, specifically apprenticeships, as without the younger generation’s input there will be no future for the British hairdressing industry. This is a campaign to help you, and we want to hear from you – your questions, your @easydryintl experiences, your solutions – so together we can build that brighter future. Let’s get started...

I don’t think people see the success, fun & passion in this industry

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APPRENTICESHIPS – INVESTING IN THE FUTURE OR PART OF THE PROBLEM? 50

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CREATIVE HEAD

21/06/2016 16:38

#FutureProof “I teach at a hairdressing college and I think schools see hairdressing as a way of removing students with behavioural issues and few academic skills. We teach 14- to 16-year-olds who have no interest in hairdressing but see it as an easy option and want to get out of school for a day!”

ALISON GOUGH

IT USED TO BE straightforward. Apprenticeships were a way for young people to enter work by learning a trade on the job. Employers weren’t expected to contribute anything towards them, other than paying their wages at their choice of rate. Then a National Minimum Apprenticeship Wage was introduced, and the government began an overhaul of apprenticeships with employers expected to contribute to the apprenticeship training costs at the rate of £2 from government for every £1 contributed by an employer.

We don’t yet know how much salons could end up paying towards apprenticeship fees as the funding bands that will determine the maximum amount an employer pays have yet to be decided, but we do know that the new levy is set to be introduced in April next year.

“The issue for employers is not just the cost, but also the administration involved – most would prefer to leave funding with the training providers,” argues Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF. Further issues affecting apprenticeships are the recent hikes in age for compulsory education and the quality of apprentices that join the industry. School leavers now need to be 18; for them to leave before this age they have to be in some kind of vocational training, but schools are incentivised to keep students in education.

For Richard Phillipart, owner of The Boutique Atelier in Cheshire, there has been a direct correlation between more students staying in school and the amount of young people applying for apprenticeships in his salon. “We have seen a huge drop in applications since the law was changed. Three years ago we had 17 applications a year, two years ago it was nine, last year it was five and so far this year we’ve had none,” he says. “The kids due to leave this year have never known anything else so I’m not surprised.”

Richard suspects that schools are no longer promoting apprenticeships as an option – something Angelo Vallillo, creative director of Zullo & Holland and head of the Angelo Vallillo Hair Academy, agrees with. “The problem I’m finding is that there’s more funding being put into keeping students in school rather than into apprenticeships and academies,” he says.

It has made Richard decide to approach apprenticeships differently. “I’m focusing on talking to the parents, I want them to realise what a fantastic opportunity hairdressing is.”

Angelo believes the conversation with young people

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@haringtonshx

Hairdressing is still seen as a last resort needs to happen a lot sooner; not during their careers meeting aged 16, but when they are 14. “This is when they’re deciding what sort of career they want. They then have two years to research and find the right path for them,” he says.

“We need to spread the word and get our industry the right recognition.” Career fairs, open days and after-school clubs are all great ways to spread the word.

HOB Salons regularly sends representatives to school careers fairs and has found its Academy apprenticeship numbers increase from 43 in November 2014 to more than 130 now. Yet the quality of apprentices isn’t always up to scratch. “We find some apprentices who join us, especially on the younger end of the spectrum, choose hairdressing as a career without understanding how much work goes into it.

Many also struggle to adjust to the work environment,” says Claire Ensor, HOB Apprenticeship Academy manager.

Then there is the issue of dropouts; once you have an apprentice and have invested in them, how do you ensure they stay? Some salons have suggested that apprentices should front the cost of some of their training with the aim that with a financial incentive, the emotional incentive follows. However, as the NHF’s Hilary points out, at present this does not form any part of the government’s plans.

One approach is recruiting older, more mature students, rather than from when they’re 16. “Often the more mature apprentices are keen to learn, progress more quickly, are easier to manage and reach ‘salon-ready’ standard earlier, justifying the additional cost,” admits Hilary.

Caroline Sanderson, owner of Ego Hair Design and Most Wanted Business Thinker 2015, recently trained and then hired Rhona, a mother of four who is in her 30s. “We wanted to open up the opportunity to train as a hairdresser to anyone who has passion,” explains Caroline. “Age shouldn’t be a restriction, but there are many older people who don’t have the chance to become hairdressers due to a lack of funding. We were unable to get traditional funding where they work at the salon full time and go to college one day a week, so instead Rhona was funded to do a fast-track course at the college over one year, and we employed her at the salon on the other days.”

Caroline found Rhona’s commitment outstanding; she never even took a sick day. She advises: “Look for passion regardless of age and find a way of to make it work. In the long term, you’re more likely to see a return on investment.”

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#FutureProof

“At the moment thereʼs no let up on VAT, but minimum wage keeps rising, along with rent and business rates. I would love to pay our trainees more, but where do we find it? I feel there should be a two-year training wage for 16- to 25-year-olds, giving smaller businesses more opportunity to home grow skilled employees. If something doesnʼt happen, our Great British standards will be lost.”

MIKAELA MARTIN, SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY

Richard Ashforth, owner of Saco, has also started hiring older apprentices. “I used to have my head firmly stuck in the good old days when our industry was inundated with committed young people wanting to learn our craft, but this is no more,” he says. “It’s a huge struggle to recruit UK school leavers, especially in London where the cost of living is astronomical. The younger generation doesn’t necessarily see employment in the same way as employers.

Their perspective seems to reflect a transient approach where, rather than ‘toughing’ things out to get through their training, they would rather move or change careers if things become too difficult.”

This has led Richard to start employing older trainees who have a “more mature approach to their careers and feel and act in a more committed way”. He adds: “It’s a huge cost to pay the National Living Wage for someone in their mid to late 20s, but I would rather have a stable and committed team than a revolving door of youngsters who haven’t the foresight to invest in themselves at an early stage.”

But let’s talk numbers for a second.

Just how much more would you spend on training an older apprentice? Ken @Head_Romance West, director of 3•6•5, We’re inundated with CVs has done the sums: and job applications, but finding train a 16-year-old for people who’ll make the cut is a three years, at £3.30 per

WHOLE different story

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hour, the cost is £20,592. Train a 21-year-old for a year at £3.30 per hour and a year at £6.70 per hour National Minimum Wage, the cost is £20,800 (based on a 40-hour week). It’s only a couple hundred pounds more to train an older apprentice and, although it means qualifying in two years, an older but committed student should be able to achieve this.

But if the extra costs really aren’t an option for you, there is another way: traineeships. “It takes away the struggle from finding the right apprentice and helps the younger generation who may lack the level of skills and knowledge required to work in your salon,” says Abby Whittaker, director of Hair Academy South West. She describes the traineeship as a quality work experience placement, which can last up to six months. “The advantage is that the trainee will achieve a City & Guilds Level 1 certificate in Employability Skills, and all training costs are covered by the government,” she explains. “This gives the salon owner the opportunity to work with a trainee without having to pay or commit to long-term recruitment costs, avoiding early employment complications. The traineeship then simply ends or the trainee goes on to do an apprenticeship.”

Whether you home-grow your talent or get them from college, it’s clear that the current apprenticeship model has massive issues. And there’s a very real fear that the next round of changes to apprenticeships by the government will only increase salons’ workload, with no certainty that the quality of apprentices will rise with it.

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:54

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#FutureProof

DO IT DIFFERENTLY YOU NEED TO THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX WHEN IT COMES TO RECRUITING APPRENTICES

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ADULTS ONLY

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Mahogany Hairdressing in Oxford decided to target young people looking for a job and work experience, rather than a specific career in hairdressing.

This led to them recruiting ‘general helpers’ who tended to be university students keen to work somewhere that was a little bit different to a shop or bar. “Our ‘general helpers’ focus on keeping the salon tidy, ensuring fresh towels are available for the stylists and to serve refreshments to clients,” explains operations director RussellJohn Barker. With the helpers doing everyday salon tasks, it frees up the apprentices to concentrate on what matters most: hairdressing.

Mitchell Wilson, co-owner of Laundry in Sheffield, has found that age is a big issue as “with age comes experience, but many get overlooked due to financial reasons”. To pay an apprentice an apprenticeship wage only until they’re 19 often means older and potentially better candidates get overlooked. But Laundry has found a way around this conundrum. “The average age of our five apprentices is 21, so to justify their increase in salary they work part time as a receptionist or barista in our coffee shop – jobs that I’d pay National Minimum Wage for that they can do while continuing their training,” he says.

Jayne Prigent, owner of Most Wanted 2015 Best Local Salon, Jas Hair Group, runs a ‘give it a go’ hair scheme for potential apprentices every March.

“The event is for school leavers who want to try their hand at hairdressing.

We open it up to 14- to 17-year-olds and they come along to one of our salons for a few hours after school,” she says.

“We do also ask for them to bring along a chaperone who is over 18 and doubles up as their hair model. They get to apply colour, wash hair, carry out a relaxing treatment and blow-dry the hair. It’s a fun but informative after-school session.” And after the events, they usually find at least one apprentice.

NEXT MONTH: NATIONAL MINIMUM AND LIVING WAGE

WHAT PROBLEMS ARE YOU FACING… AND WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO FUTUREPROOF

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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@creativeheadmag

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CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:54

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The Company of Master Barbers in Southport, photographed by David Brown

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

WE’VE OFTEN WONDERED what women want, but what about men? They want power, adventure and to look good doing it. This is where you come in. Now is the perfect time to become the expert men are looking for to help them look good, with American Crew and the iconic Elvis Presley.

“Elvis is one of the most influential style icons of our time,” says Johnny BaBa, owner of BarberBarber. When Johnny heard about American Crew’s Elvis campaign, he knew he had to be a part of it. “We’ve got an Elvis display in-salon and it’s such an easy sell,” he says.

“People buy into an image and a lifestyle, and they all want a bit of Elvis to take home. We don’t even have to push it. That’s the beauty of it.”

Dan Rix, director of The Company of Master Barbers, agrees: “Elvis is one of the greats, so we decided to invest heavily into the campaign by creating an eye-catching window display featuring Elvis mementos and even a replica of his motorbike.”

Dan predicts his in-salon Elvis display will substantially increase the salon’s retail revenue.

He says: “Along with the displays around the shop, we play songs by Elvis, so if the customer has missed the main display, then we will at least get our message into their heads subliminally during their grooming experience. And from there the seed is planted and the upselling in the salon can begin.”

Creating such an eye-catching display is hard work, but Dan found the process was a little bit easier with the support he received from American Crew.

“The brand’s attention to detail on this campaign has been remarkable and it has backed us in all of our efforts. American Crew has even gone as far as couriering over items for our display,” he adds.

With American Crew, you’ve got the King of Men’s Grooming to entice men into your salon, and the high-quality products to back it all up – it’s a win-win.

Give men what they want; give them American Crew. To find out more, call 020 7391 7440, email customerservice.uk@revlon.com or visit americancrew.com

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21/06/2016 16:45

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

BUILD YOUR BUSINESS Top tips from Matt Robinson of Mr Robinson’s Barber Shop

Dan Rix from The Company of Master Barbers

1. Choose a men’s brand that clients can connect with; something relatable and recognisable to the man on the street.

2. Men want a place to hang out.

Our waiting area is like a living room with sofas, a coffee machine and a big screen TV.

3. Have an ethos men can relate to.

Ours is love and acceptance.

4. It’s important to incentivise your team to sell products, but don’t be too target driven.

5. Choose a brand that can help your business. We chose American Crew because of the security and support the brand gives us.

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profiles

galleries

education

LAUNCHES 01.09.16 backstage

galleries

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profiles

insight

trends

inspiration

galleries

interviews

tutorials

techniques

ideas

22/06/2016 13:37

AFRESH EYE

JAYSON GRAY HAS ALWAYS BEEN SOMETHING OF A MAVERICK. HIS TECHNICOLOR SPECTRUM WAS A DRIVING FORCE AT TONI&GUY FOR MORE THAN TWO DECADES. NOW, HE IS STRIKING OUT ALONE, METAMORPHOSING INTO THE KARBON KYD. “I WANTED TO CREATE A BRAND,” HE SAYS OF HIS NEW PERSONA, “ONE THAT SCREAMS ‘UNDERGROUND’ AND ‘IMPERFECTION’, WITH A SENSE OF A DIY PROCESS

THAT IS ACCESSIBLE AND LED BY STREET CULTURE.” ALL THE LOOKS ARE CREATED AND STYLED WITH AN EDITORIAL OVERVIEW, SOMETHING HE FEELS IS MORE RELEVANT TODAY. AND YOU TOO CAN BECOME PART OF HIS KOLLEKTIVE, AS HE BEGINS OFFERING BESPOKE EDUCATION FOR SALONS AND COLOURISTS. HERE, WE SHOWCASE HIS FIRST REVOLUTIONARY KOLLEKTION. ENTER THE WORLD OF THE KARBON KYD…

PHOTOGRAPHY BY REGINALD STEPHEN BROOKER CREATIVE HEAD

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SEE MORE from the Karbon Kyd on creativeheadmag.com

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#KarbonKyd

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#KarbonKyd

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21/06/2016 16:50

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HAIR STYLING AND COLOUR, ART DIRECTION AND CONCEPT Jayson Gray, assisted by his crew.

MAKE-UP Giada Venturini. MODEL Christie Leigh at Nevs London. VENUE Shot on location at Tollington Park Studios

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21/06/2016 16:52

F A S H I O N I S TA

From helping out in her mum’s salon in the West Indies to international Vogue covers as Sam McKnight’s first assistant, Cyndia Harvey’s journey has taken her around the world and back again. The 2015 It List Fashionista tells us about styling, success and why there’s no such thing as a bad idea…

a pose CREATIVE HEAD

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Sean Turkish Vogue, photography by

Dazed, photography by Theo Sion

and Seng

#Fashionista

“I FIRST FELL in love with hairdressing in Mandeville, Jamaica,” says It List Fashionista Cyndia Harvey, remembering the hours she spent in her mother’s salon, transfixed by the transformative power of hair styling. “I was fascinated by the practical work, I started to pick up some hair skills and taking part in her training sessions. It felt very natural and I would often get lost in that world.”

Cyndia briefly abandoned hairdressing when she moved to London in 1997 aged 10, but it wasn’t long before she found her way back. “I studied Fine

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Art and although I loved it, I quickly realised it was not the career I wanted to pursue, so I started a hairdressing course.”

Having honed her skills, Cyndia decided to focus her talents on cracking the world of fashion and landed a top position, despite being a relative novice. “I assisted on editorials and shows, and this opened my eyes to the vast career opportunities available. “Some time after I got the opportunity to assist Sam McKnight on a Chanel show in Paris. I was chosen to be his first assistant, a position I held for five years,” she explains. “Session made sense because it allowed me to combine my love for great fashion images with my love for hairdressing.”

Working with one of the most indemand session stylists in the world

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 15:01

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not only opened doors for Cyndia, it meant she was constantly learning and refining her skills. “Working for Sam allowed me to be around some of the most influential people in the industry and travel the world working on shows and campaigns with labels such as Chanel, Fendi, Tom Ford and Vivienne Westwood,” she says.

“It was the best training I could have received – you really learn to think on your feet during those crazy backstage moments! Working as part of a team is vital, and you have to know how to make anyone sitting in your chair feel comfortable, so that when they walk out onto the runway or in front of the camera they feel amazing!”

Since 2014, Cyndia has struck out alone and made a name for herself in her own right. “I’m now represented

by Streeters, and that’s led to work with Vogue, i-D, W and GQ Style, as well as brands such as Tod’s, Fendi, Gucci, Majes, Hermès and Hugo Boss. I have collaborated with photographers like Harley Weir, Tyrone Lebon and Sean and Seng. And I’ve worked with models Kate Moss, Lara Stone,

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Selfridges, photography by Sarah Piantadosi

German Interview

Photography by Ricky Saiz

German Interview

#Fashionista

Jourdan Dunn, Bella Hadid and Alessandra Ambrosio, as well as musicians Paloma Faith and Charli XCX.” It’s all pretty impressive stuff.

And since her Fashionista win at The It List Awards 2015, Cyndia has continued soar, having recently worked on a cover story with photographer Tim Walker for Italian Vogue and styled hair for a new Calvin Klein campaign. “Working on Calvin Klein, which is such an iconic brand, has been one of my career highlights,” Cyndia says. “In my work, I always try to create something fresh. I want to look at an image and for it to feel rich with a sense of youth, effortlessness and have a believable story. I take inspiration from everything around me – because even the worst ideas will always have a small part you can take away with you.”

She adds: “My ambition is to continue to nurture the relationships I have with the people I work with. I want to create great fashion images that will last and be remembered for a long time. I have an amazing project I’m cooking up but you’ll have to watch this space for more…”

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 15:01

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WHY YOU SHOULD BECOME

BECOME A MEMBER IN 2016 MAKE SURE YOUR BUSINESS IS WATERTIGHT • Free employment law advice around the clock • Free employment contracts, apprenticeship and chair renting agreements • NHF pension scheme

HELP YOU GROW YOUR BUSINESS • Business training courses • Free business advice guides • Competitions and demonstrations

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SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY • We are your one stop shop for your businesses needs • Discounts on salon insurance and music licences plus many more To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

gloss Into the

Alexis Mabille S/S16, hair by Odile Gilbert for Moroccanoil

Every client wants beautiful, healthylooking hair... and oils promise to deliver.

From runway looks to celeb ambassadors and expanding ranges, we chart the evolution of those slick drops of delight

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FROM THE AMAZON RAINFOREST to the souks of Morocco, oils have long been considered precious components of luxurious beauty regimes.

For centuries, women harnessed the nourishing benefits of nut, argan and coconut oils to add fragrance and strength to their hair.

But it wasn’t until 2009 that oils found their place in the salon, with the launch of Moroccanoil Treatment, a rich elixir that answered every hair prayer. Stronger hair, incredible shine and amazing smoothness were suddenly available in one single product, and its distinctive brown and blue bottle became synonymous with beautiful hair.

The ripple effect of this landmark launch is still being felt – in the seven years since, hairdressers and clients alike have developed a serious craving for oils, and it’s a go-to product backstage at fashion week shows across the globe. Indeed, Moroccanoil is now a staple at a number of big designer shows in all four main fashion capitals. The reason for this? It’s a combination of oils’ universal appeal, alongside the rise in interest of products with a high-end feel.

“Clients love how versatile oils can be and they work for every hair type in a different way,” explains Alison Stewart, owner and director of Alison Stewart Hairdressing. “Hair oils are now viewed as a luxury and a ‘hair treat’ by clients because the end results leave them with a super shine.

The best hair oils are multi-tasking miracle products that can do the job of a leave-in conditioner, styling cream, frizz serum, and shine spray in one. We now see them more as styling products as well as treatments.”

But, as with all new and unfamiliar products, some clients are a little reticent about using oils. “The main concerns are that oils might make hair feel heavy and affect a client’s colour,” says Natalie Allen, owner of Harvey Luke salon group. According to Chandler Wright, of Chandler Wright Hair: “Clients assume that oils are greasy – but are surprised when they realise how lightweight today’s formulations are.”

These worries can be overcome with the correct approach. It’s important to show clients that they don’t need to fear oils, and one way of putting their concerns to rest is by remaining mindful of the language you use when introducing the idea. “One of the things we focus on when communicating with clients about oils is the key words we are using,”

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 14:12

ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY

E V E RY G R E AT H A I R STORY S TA R T S H E R E MOROC C ANOIL T R E AT M E NT AND MOROCCA N OIL TREATMEN T L IGH T: THE U LT I M AT E F OU NDAT I ON F O R A L L H A I R C A R E A N D S T Y L I N G INFUSED WITH NOURISHING ARGAN OIL

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Jason Wu A/W16, hair by Paul Hanlon

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Jason Wu A/W16

Temperley London S/S16, hair by Antonio Corral Calero

Jason Wu A/W16

OsmanS/S16, hair by Antonio Corral Calero

Ken Picton, owner of Ken Picton Salon, explains.

“We talk about dry oils to move away from those with a heavy serum base they may think of. This helps the client understand that ‘oil’ isn’t a nasty word at all but can be incredibly beneficial to their routine.”

Matthew Whiting at Unique in East Riding, agrees that this kind of education can convince clients oils are a quick route to beautiful hair, especially if you can provide tips and tricks so they can maximise their product’s potential. “Oils are amazing for wet or dry hair, and there’s one out there for every hair type,” he says. “They are also very versatile. Weak ends feel better immediately, something that clients love. You can teach them to add one or two pumps to their favourite conditioner to make it more luxurious in-between using weekly masque treatments. And there are now full ranges of oil products to choose from.”

And by introducing a client to oil, you can create a stepping stone to an entire oil-based collection – so there’s good reason to fill your shelves. “Oils retail incredibly well in-salon,” says Ken Picton.

“Traditionally, clients would just buy the individual oil, but the strength of a product creates brand loyalty so clients are much more open to trying out other products in the ranges.”

As more and more clients are converted to the modern versions of these ancient treatments, we can look forward to a dazzling future where oils shine bright. As Jamie Stevens, owner of Jamie Stevens Hair, says: “The results speak for themselves. The benefits for clients and stylists are limitless and we’ve been able to achieve incredible results. There are so many ways this product can have an impact on hair.”

So it’s not surprising that oils have had such a meteoric rise – all it took was a little brown bottle to kick start a revolution. It’s a touch of liquid gold for your salon’s retail.

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2016 15:03

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Great hair, do care

Hair that shines with health and vitality takes time, but now you can offer clients better hair instantly with the award-winning Moroccanoil Treatment

CARED-FOR HAIR normally needs a lot of time and attention, but now clients can achieve luminous shine, silky smoothness and better manageability in an instant, with Moroccanoil Treatment.

The conditioning, styling and finishing tool fortifies hair, improves elasticity and shields against harmful environmental factors with a blend of powerful ingredients, including the brand’s signature argan oil. With Moroccanoil Treatment, hair will be:  Fortified and protected against daily hazards such as pollution and heat from styling tools  Luxurious, with a noticeable shine and no residue  Revitalised as the treatment works to help renew hair’s cellular structure  Nourished and easier to manage And if you’re still not convinced, the treatment has some heavy backers, winning a hoard of awards, including Best Hair Oil in InStyle’s Best Beauty Buys 2016, Best Summer Product in The Telegraph’s Stella Summer Beauty Awards 2016 and voted one of Vogue’s 100 products of all time.

VOTED ONE OF VOGUE’S 100 GREATEST PRODUCTS OF ALL TIME!

Help your clients achieve better hair instantly with the Moroccanoil Treatment.

To find out more, call 0800 310 1133 or visit moroccanoil.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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#Oils

Shine a light It started with oils… now there’s so much more for clients to love

WHAT STARTED OFF as one product has now flourished into an extensive hair and body care range. The original Moroccanoil Treatment is a versatile must-have that adds a burst of hydration along with incredible shine and detangling – use it before shampooing, before a blow-dry or as a finishing touch. This luxurious vibe continues throughout the rest of the collection. Recent additions include the innovative dry shampoo duo for lighter and for darker hair (pictured), while the new Treatbox is a bundle containing everything a client needs to create dreamy hair at home – there’s the Moisture Repair Shampoo and Conditioner and a bottle of the Moroccanoil Treatment. Because these days, no bathroom is complete without one.

MOROCCANOIL TEATMENT RRP £31.85 DRY SHAMPOO RRP £14.85, TREAT BOX RRP £31.85

RRP £31

bumbleandbumble.co.uk

The African marula oil in the MarulaOil collection is a treatment that softens hair and provides a sustainable income for local people, with Paul Mitchell supporting fair prices for crops.

RRP FROM £21.95

paul-mitchell.co.uk

Revlon Professional’s Orofluido Asia range takes an exotic blend of tsubaki oil, bamboo oil and rice oil, to help transform everyday routine into indulgent ritual.

RRP FROM £16.95 orofluido.com

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RRP £23.50

goldwell.co.uk

Aveda Dry Remedy Oil is perfect for all hair types, and provides a burst of moisture using natural botanical oils for a sleek, smooth finish.

RRP £20.50 aveda.co.uk

moroccanoil.co.uk

Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil by Bumble and bumble is perfect for clients who are worried that oil might weigh down their fine hair – it’s a light formula that gives gloss without stickiness.

It doesn’t get much more luxurious than the Kerasilk Rich Protective Oil by Goldwell, which contains liquid silk to tame frizz and fight against humidity.

The Davines OI range has been given a makeover – chic new monochrome packaging is wrapped around the luxurious collection, which is infused with roucou oil.

RRP FROM £15.10 davines.com

The Therapy Rejuvenating Radiance Oil from label.m transforms dull and dry hair in seconds, providing softness and shine that makes locks look gorgeously healthy and young.

RRP £26.95 labelm.com

L’Oréal Professional has relaunched the Mythic Oil collection, containing innovative products such as the Brume Sublimatrice Dry Conditioner for a blast of hydration between washes.

Bring tired hair back to health with the vitamin E rich Osmo Berber Oil, which nourishes strands and protects them against further damage from the sun and heat styling.

lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

osmo.uk.com

RRP FROM £10.49

Indulgence meets strength in the Kérastase Elixir Ultime, which increases suppleness, resilience and moisture without weighing the hair down.

RRP £37

kerastase.co.uk

RRP £23.35

The trio of argan, manketti and evening primrose oils makes Joico K-Pak Color Therapy Restorative Styling Oil the perfect choice for coloured hair that craves a little care.

RRP £16.95 joico.com

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ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY

THE L ATEST I N N OVAT I O N IN D RY S H A M P O O ULTRA - FI N E RI C E S TA R C HE S A B S O R B O IL A N D LE AV E H A IR R EFRES HED — W IT H N O DU LL R E S IDU E AVAILABLE FOR LIGHT AND DARK HAIR TONES

ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y #ArganEveryDay | Learn more at Moroccanoil.co.uk

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PAYING HOMAGE TO A LATE ’70S MUSICAL ODYSSEY, CHARLES WORTHINGTON MBE, KATIE ALLAN AND THE CHARLES WORTHINGTON CREATIVE TEAM HIT THE RIGHT NOTE WITH BEAT

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SEE MORE of the collection online, visit creativeheadmag.com

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HAIR Charles Worthington MBE, Katie Allan and the Charles Worthington Creative Team. MAKE-UP Cassie Steward. VIDEOGRAPHY Rob Nixon.

Suit up With tailored styling that celebrates femininity, Ellenora Dean excels in her presentation of a thoroughly modern woman PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANNY BALDWIN 88

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HAIR Ellenora Dean. MAKE-UP Katie Moore. HAIR ASSISTANT Cane Kilshaw.

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JOIN THE PARTY! SIGN UP NOW FOR £75 What guests can expect New hair tricks Quick style fixes ● How-to tutorials ● Expert advice ● Goodie bags with free products

The benefits to you Increased client loyalty Exposure to new clients ● Retail sales on the night ● A chance to show off your skills ● Exposure on a national level

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Register your salon at creativeheadmag.com/store You’ll be sent a Big Hair Do pack containing window stickers, badges for the team, goodie bags and a guide showing you how to organise and promote your Big Hair Do SPONSORED BY

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ONE BIG 100 SALONS NIGHT WEDNESDAY 28 SEPTEMBER 2016 Throw open your doors to the public for a unique experience evening ямБlled with fun, education, product testing, hair DIYs and stylist expertise FASHION PARTNER

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My Style Masters looks on the big scree n

The Veck fa mily portrait Against the clock at the Revlon Profess ional Global Style Maste rs final in Paris

In the

Prepping hair piece s for a phot oshoot

frame

Wh oop! I won!

Anne Veck, Revlon Professional ambassador and Global Style Masters winner, snaps away

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

Runnin g the Blenhe im Palace 10k with daught er Chloe and best friend Domin ique

Training with my hair guru, Sharon Blain

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The Anne Veck tea m knows how to party!

Working on John Vial's #RevlonProBackstage session tea m at London College of Fashion's BA show (left) and Charles Jeffrey at London Collections: Men

Working for Revlon Professional at a soiree

F inding inspiration from an Oxford Street window display

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WARM UP YOUR SALES FOR SUMMER

Exclusive IntelliFlex® bristles gently detangle hair. No snags, pulls or pain.

Just healthier more beautiful hair.

BEAUTIFUL STARTS HERE. thewetbrush.com

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