Creative HEAD July 2020 by Alfol Publishing

£4.50 JULY 2020

In print•online•everywhere!

JULY 2020 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

STRONGER TOGETHER

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STRONGER TOGETHER During times of change, during times of hardship, during times of joy and of sorrow – we can overcome and conquer common challenges when we stand together. As an industry, it has never een more important to de ne and shape our agenda for the way forward. It will only be by working together and supporting each other that this will be achieved and L’Oréal Professionnel is dedicated to doing just that. Alongside the L’Oréal Professional Products Division portfolio of brands we have devised a variety of support packages and initiatives to the wider hairdressing industry and partnering with trade bodies such as the British Beauty Council and NHBF. We continue to work hand-in-hand with the beauty and creative communities and our salon partners. From practical support in the form of Back-toBusiness and Hygiene guides,* to freezing payments due from end of March for all independent salons while they remain closed, we are there to help as salons open their doors again. Standing alongside salons, a full programme of complimentary digital education has also been produced and is available on the virtual education platform Access. With more than 30,000 UK and Ireland Access users, L’Oréal Professional Products Division has ena led and offered a wealth of fundamental education, helping hairdressers at every level to continue their training, to be prepared and inspired for re-opening. s we enter a new world together, we not only need to re ect on previous achievements but also draw on our resilience and adaptability to embolden ourselves for the future. It will be this preparation of the highest safety and hygiene standards, together with our business agility, that will help us successfully navigate this new normality and continue to delight our devoted clients. The following pages will hopefully provide some inspiration, positivity and helpful information from the community as we all start a new chapter. What we do today will de ne our tomorrow L’Oréal Professionnel is with you, and the entire industry, every step of the way.”

Mоica Teod o, general manager, L ’Oréal Pr e iоnel UK & Ireland

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Charles Worthington MBE

Trevor Sorbie MBE

Jason and India MIller

UNITED BY #PROPOSITIVITY Sally Brooks

As lockdown became real, L’Oréal Professionnel wanted to show how it stood by salons, stylists and their beloved clientele. It delivered #PROPOSITIVITY, an online initiative to keep hairdressers connected with their community and clients. Spearheaded by industry icon Trevor Sorbie MBE, #PROPOSITIVITY became a place for advice, ideas and stories on how others navigate the issues presented by Covid-19.

Lorenzo Colangelo

“The L’Oréal Professionnel #PROPOSITIVITY campaign allowed us all to share and connect with our industry,” Trevor explains. “I’ve shared multiple ideas and strategies that have helped me to achieve my goals.” The campaign also saw, to name but a few examples, Lorenzo Colangelo, owner of The Gallery in Southborough, discuss the books that have guided his philosophy and positivity throughout his career. Jamie Stevens, director of Jamie Stevens Hair Salons, took the time to ruminate over how a career in hair provides a lifetime of useful skills and unleashes creative potential. Sally Brooks encapsulated her glass half-full approach to work and life that has seen Brooks & Brooks become one of the most successful salons in London.

Daniel Galvin OBE

Jamie Stevens

Sinéad Kelly

I the importance of refreshing skills and learning new ones.

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BACK TO BUSINESS YOUR SALON LOOKS AND FEELS QUITE DIFFERENT NOW YOU ARE BACK. L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION IS HERE TO HELP YOUR TRANSITION TO THE NEW NORMAL

Re-evaluate your service offerings to identify changes you need to make. Quick, effective colour services using Majirel and Dia or colour removal with Effasor from L’Oréal Professionnel are your key players for shorter appointments. Here are some salons that feel the need for speed…

DARREN FOWLER, FOWLER35

JENNIFER LINTON, LINTON & MAC

ANDREW WILLIAMS, WILLIAMS & RICE

ANGIE DROMGOOLE, ZEBA HAIRDRESSING

T T O

B LO

P O

LO T

O K

E D

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

THE FUTURE IS HERE

ONE OF THE FIRST COVID-ADAPTED SALONS, GATSBY & MILLER ILLUSTRATES HOW THE SALON CAN STUN AFTER LOCKDOWN John Roads, founder of super-salon Gatsby & Miller in Amersham, knew his salon needed to change post-lockdown, and the salon journey had to be updated. He set about clients and how to minimise exposure while still retaining the levels of service the salon is known for. LO P customers feel safe and supported. “We’ve really enjoyed working with the brand,” he told us. “The guidelines have been incredibly useful.” Sourcing protective equipment has been helped immensely through the salon’s partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel. “The brand has been a great source of comfort at a time when the supply chain is troubled,” John explains.

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ACCESS ALL AREAS

AS STYLISTS FOUND THEMSELVES LOCKED DOWN, ACCESS FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION PROVIDED A VIRTUAL WORLD OF PROGRAMMES AND CONTENT AVAILABLE TO ALL There’s so much to consider as salons re-open, it can be hard to know where to start. Sometimes it’s best to go back to basics and re-learn from the ground up. The fundamentals of hairdressing education are key at this time as we consider how to do business in the new normal. Knowing your essential skills inside-out means that you can A A LO P P D B UK I O T LO P K 1 2 were made free for six months at the beginning of lockdown, and the response has 1 994 T H A LO P

The Covid-19 crisis has changed things in so many ways, and we are about to see how this will impact our business. We care for our clients; it is crucial that they feel valued, listened to individually and have received a service that is value for money too. Our team is like a family - they matter, their opinions, their voices and their needs. It’s always been our ethos that they know and understand this, and so do our clients. So even more so now: what are their fears, what will reassure them and how do we get them back into doing what they love the most? Ultimately, returning to the salon is about connecting with each other, and the social aspect of visiting the salon again.”

Sara Holmes, direc r, S art Holmes

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1 000 £1 1 T

LO 1A

2020 UK L

P H £10 000 T G B

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Education is ALWAYS key, no matter what else is going on. But in these strange times education is more important than ever. It’s been able to give you something to activate your mind, an opportunity to brush up on skills that you have let slip, and an opportunity to look at planning your future education needs and desires. Whether that’s looking into a whole new skill set or setting your plans to achieve an upgrade to existing skills, L’Oréal Access has everything that you need, set out perfectly for you to achieve all of your education goals, whatever level you are.”

Adam Reed, ner, Adam Reed Lоdо

BY YOUR SIDE

HERE ARE JUST SOME OF THE SUPPORT MEASURES IN PLACE FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION:

•A Back to Business Salon Support Guide* to help salons prepare for a safe reopening.

•Hygiene & Safety Guidelines* created in collaboration with trade bodies the NHBF and British Beauty Council.

•The procurement of more than one

million masks and production of more than 100,000 hand sanitiser gels for UK and Irish salons.

•Since 26 March 2020, L’Oréal Professional Products Division has frozen payments due from all independent salons.

* Please note that through any information supplied within any guides, this article, any courses oﬀered or any other means, L’Oréal (UK) Limited is not providing legal or financial or other advice. This information is not a substitute for obtaining independent legal or financial or other advice from any relevant third party such as an appointed accountant, solicitor or bank. L’Oréal wanted to amass some information & resources in one easy place. You should, of course, not rely on any information, and ensure you have undertaken your own independent research alongside it. ** Please note that any certificates provided by L’Oréal (UK) Limited are not oﬃcial accreditation for any regulated course and are not formalised by any external third party.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

O A

Discover how L’Oréal Professionnel can support your salon’s return to business. T . . 0 00 030 4034

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Find us on

and

at Paul Mitchell UK

For 40 years Paul MitchellÂŽ has supported professionals like you. We will continue to support our salons, our stylists and our clients. Then, now and always. Our company was founded on the mission of creating something beautiful for all, every day. 40 years later our mission has not changed.

Peace, Love and Happiness.

Available exclusively from Salon Success - The Distributor of Choice To find out more visit salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011

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Talk to us: +44 20 3808 0465 gettimely.com

Editor’s letter

JOIN US!

Here’s to you, dear entrants, because this is how YOU do MWIT! Yes, thanks to you and your exceptional effort and BRITISH HAIRDRESSING AND BARBERING have never been awesome talent, entries to so valued and adored in the public eye as they are right now. Three Creative HEAD’s 2020 Most months (at least!) away from their salons, barbers and stylists means that Wanted and The It List the public has a fresh understanding of the important role you play in the Awards arrived en masse. fabric of life. You are a community advocate, a counsellor to so many, a purveyor And the wait is almost of self-esteem and confidence. For so long, the vast majority of the public and the over WIT ﬁnalists media just didn’t take this industry seriously. Well, now that they’re eager to get will be announced online back to the salon and government has seen first-hand the nation’s obsession with on Wednesday 8 July. hair, they’ll stop looking at it as an industry of school dropouts. Our Lockdown LiftGood luck, everybody! off special (from page 46) celebrates salons opening once again and is packed Meanwhile, we’ve with the practical, from PPE to express services to help your business revealed the shortlist for recover. Yet while we mark this return we also need to face some difficult the coveted Most Wanted realities. Apprentice numbers are down, Brexit threatens future Hair Icon award, see recruitment from EU countries because the Home Office deems page 16. Congratulations hairdressing as “lower skilled”, yet we have virtual queues for to all of our nominees. services. Now is the time to harness the love and appreciation of creativeheadmag.com/events your craft and your place in society and ensure it helps make a real difference.

VE YOUR SAY! SALON OWNERS: HA RATION

ILLS AND IMMIG TAKE PART IN OUR SK EADMAG.COM AND EH SURVEY AT CREATIV ANGE! SEE PAGE 58 CH E AK M LP YOU CAN HE

Amanda Nottage Editor

amanda@alfol.co.uk

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creativeheadmag.com

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

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CMY

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12:17

July WHAT’S INSIDE TIVE HEAD A E R

Si n c e 2 0 0 0

62 FASHION

ON THE COVER L’Oréal Professionnel

A LITTLE LONGER

Many men have changed their styles during lockdown – what does it mean for barbers now they’re back?

Clients will crave the new tones and textures from Hazel & Haydn

RISING STAR

IN THE FRAME

Tweedie & Marshall’s Justine Weir shares her dreams and goals

Robert Eaton shares his lockdown life and salon safety upgrades

EDITOR

DIGITAL DESIGNER

DEPUTY EDITOR

ONLINE AND DIGITAL ASSISTANT

BELLA PETERS

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

ALISON ROWLEY

PUBLISHER

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA

STAFF WRITER

ANNA SAMSON

ART DIRECTOR

ADAM WOOD

EVA VESTMANN

KELSEY DRING

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JENNY BROOKS

JOANNA ANDERSEN

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

DAVID HAMMOND

creativeheadmag.com

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SPECIAL PROJECTS ASSISTANT

creativeheadmagofficial

Creative HEAD is printed on reative E is u lished a er certiﬁed as eing from times a ear lfol td sustaina le sources using onl reative E is a registered vegeta le ased in s rinted trademar o art of this u ton ress Environmental maga ine ma e re roduced rinter of the ear and rinting ithout rior ermission of the om an of the ear u lisher ll information correct at time of going to ress rinting u ton ress WRITE TO US AT: reative E The Tim er ard r sdale Street ondon 020 7324 7540 en uiries@alfol co u

@creativeheadmag

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A CHANGE.ORG PETITION has been started by a junior stylist at Blue Tit London to make Afro hair education mandatory at all levels of the NVQ syllabus as well as its soon-to-be introduced replacement qualification, the Trailblazer Apprenticeship standard. Jemima Bradley’s Texture Matters petition is gathering pace as the industry looks more closely at issues surrounding diversity following the recent Black Lives Matter protests in the UK and the US. She wants to help ensure all trainees are equipped with a working knowledge of Afro hair, so that they are able to give the best service to any individual who sits in their chair. Jemima said: “We need to get Afro hair out of the fringes of education and make it compulsory.” The petition’s goal is 25,000 signatures and at time of press it stood at more than 17,000. It has already received backing from names such as Lisa Farrall and Little Mix stylist Aaron Carlo, who said: “Hairstylists are suffering with this lack of training. They’re closing themselves off to a whole market of clients. I would have lost out on so much work if I wasn’t able to style textured hair.” WATCH Jemima, Lisa and model Soﬁa Elhaj discuss this further @creativeheadmag on Instagram TV

Colour the Cut Silver Creative Colour Silver

Creative Colour Bronze

Colour the Cut Gold

PETITION TO MAKE AFRO SKILLS PART OF SYLLABUS

Creative Colour Gold

R INDUSTRY THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOU

Colour the Cut Bronze

The edit

Wella announces XPOSURE winners WELLA PROFESSIONALS HAS revealed the winners of its 2020 XPOSURE competition. Hairdressing students across the UK and Ireland with fewer than five years’ experience submitted photographic entries showcasing their skills in either Creative Colour or Colour the Cut categories. The live regional heats were adapted into digital entries due to the Covid-19 crisis, including a short video explaining their entries, a written document detailing the look and drawings to fully illustrate the techniques used. “We have had a record number of entries this year which, under the current circumstances, is incredible. The standard throughout has been incredibly impressive. British hairdressing is clearly in safe hands if

this entry level standard is anything to go by,” said Allison Hargreaves, national education operations and events manager UK & Ireland.

Colour the Cut GOLD Lily Cumper, Reflections Training Academy

SILVER Roisin Moore, House of Colour BRONZE Chenise Johnson, Fife College

Creative Colour GOLD Siobhan Hearns, Rhona McCallum Hair

SILVER Skye Lewis, KH Hair BRONZE Hannah Millar, Frances Hunter

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#CHedit MY month

AHEAD What July has in store for...

NAOMI BROOKS

THE HAIR SANCTUARY SALLY BROOKS

NICOLA CLARKE

GARY GILL

SYD HAYES

ZOË IRWIN

This will be the busiest July we have ever seen. We’ll be using new express menus for our chemical services, with only one client per stylist in the salon at any time and some stations closed to keep stylists apart, as well as increased hygiene and PPE to protect both staﬀ and clients.

COLIN MCANDREW THE MEDUSA GROUP GUIDO PALAU

ADAM REED

EUGENE ANTHONY SOULEIMAN TURNER

JOSH WOOD

MOST WANTED

HAIR ICON

FINALISTS REVEALED

FOLLOWING NOMINATIONS FROM 95 influencers from the worlds of hair, beauty, fashion and the media, the shortlist of 10 names for Most Wanted’s Hair Icon award have been revealed for 2020. The category is to determine the most inspirational hairdresser, and is by nomination only. In the line-up are session stars Syd Hayes, Guido Palau, Adam Reed, Eugene Souleiman and Anthony Turner, who will be jostling for the trophy against colour legends Nicola Clarke, Zoë Irwin and Josh Wood, and industry doyenne Sally Brooks. Backstage favourite Gary Gill also scored his first ever shortlist place. In 2019, Sam McKnight scored his third Hair Icon win, ensuring he now receives a second Most Wanted Legend trophy, having already scooped one for winning three Most Wanted Session Stylist awards. Judging will take place on 6 July, when a second panel of experts will determine who takes home this most coveted trophy on 29 November – and in Most Wanted’s most fabulous 20th anniversary year, no less! For details on when the full list of Most Wanted and The It List 2020 finalists is revealed, turn to page 36

CREATIVE HEAD

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I’m overseeing a reﬁt and rebranding of our three new salons while we wait to open here in Edinburgh. We’re also staging the Medusa 2020 Awards online, due to social distancing, and running a No Judgement campaign to ensure clients return regardless of what they’ve done to their hair during lockdown.

SALON OWNERS: HAVE YOUR SAY!

HAIRDRESSING HAS NEVER BEEN MORE IMPORTANT TO THE PUBLIC THAN IT IS TODAY, BUT THERE IS A CRISIS IN RECRUITMENT TO OUR INDUSTRY THAT WILL BE AFFECTED BY NEW APPRENTICESHIPS AND NEW IMMIGRATION RULES. TAKE PART IN OUR SKILLS AND IMMIGRATION SURVEY AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM AND YOU CAN HELP BRING ABOUT CHANGE! SEE PAGE 58

03/07/2020 15:09

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS The Super Motor Skeleton Trimmer from BaByliss PRO is perfect for detail work, making the most of an exposed T-blade for edging and outlining. It has 120 minutes of continuous cordless run time, too. SALON PRICE £135 0370 513 3191 babylisspro.co.uk

Originally designed and formulated for use with Great Lengths extensions, the new Heat & Care Spray from Great Lengths is especially good for textured hair, with panthenol to fight against moisture loss.

Turn around your client’s lockdown hair in just three minutes with the Biolage Deep Treatment Pack, individual vegan hair masks in five variants, including the new Fiber Strong and Recovery versions.

RRP £15.95 0113 278 1292 greatlengths.com

RRP £14 EACH 0330 123 1907 salon-services.com

Get set for the post-lockdown rush with the latest XpressColor shades from Indola – chocolate/ mahogany, red, violet and copper. They come with a three-times faster guarantee and a 10-minute development time.

IN-SALON SERVICE AVAILABLE THROUGH WHOLESALERS indola.com

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Good things come in small packages, so the saying goes. And there’s plenty of goodness in these specially curated three-piece My Minis collections from ALFAPARF Milano, sporting designs from Dublin illustrator Emma Kenny, whose fans include Kardashians, Jenners and Hadids. We’re sold…

RRP £17.90 EACH 00353 458 56490 alfaparfmilano.com

Award-winning barber Mr Sam Wall has added Squeaky Klean, a melonfragranced hand sanitiser, to his Lets Ave It product range.

RRP £4.99 AVAILABLE ONLINE mrsamwall.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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Join our network of stylists Hassle-free Trade Accounts with access to a wide range of luxurious hair extensions and HABIA approved training for professionals.

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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? I’ve always been really creative with my own hair and style. I knew I just had to be a hairdresser! From a young age I watched my uncle doing hair and I couldn’t wait to have my own pair of scissors. I love making people feel beautiful and I love chatting, so I knew I wouldn’t last a minute in an office. The salon is the perfect home for me.

JUSTINE WEIR

AGE: 23 SALON: TWEEDIE & MARSHALL HAIRDRESSING WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? There have been so many! I was so grateful to make it to London to be part of the Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artist Team. It meant I’ve worked with so many amazing people and trained with the best in the business such as Lesley Jennison, and Tyler Johnston on the Inspire shoot. He’s the coolest guy ever; I still get a buzz when I see him liking my photos on Instagram.

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? It would be amazing to win a big award, that’s what I’m aiming for. I want to show the younger generation that coming from a small town – I’m from Falkirk – doesn’t hold you back. WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? I would love to be part of the London and Paris Fashion Week teams and to be one of the top hairstylists at events all around the world.

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THE BUSINESS EDIT

HAS COVID ALTERED YOUR BRAND VALUES? MARY PORTAS, QUEEN of consumer habits and high street hero, has predicted that release from lockdown will trigger changes in spending behaviour. Dubbed ‘The Kindness Economy’, it’s the idea of people committing to brands they identify with. Every pound spent is a message. RCNQ in Manchester has always been a place of acceptance, but the pandemic has changed the mindset of owner Rob Czlapka in surprising ways. “We built RCNQ based on creating connections with people. Operating under social distancing has given me an opportunity to look at connecting from a distance. Our social media strategy has changed dramatically. We used to treat it as a business, but recently we have shown vulnerability, which has gained a hugely positive response.” KH Hair invested in mental health

training for managers last year – a move managing director Darren Messias sees as invaluable. “Undoubtedly, these issues will be even more prevalent due to the anxiety that lockdown has caused to some people,” he explains. “We pride ourselves on being caring and compassionate, so our empathy and patience is going to be crucial in giving our clients and staff the support they need.” Jo Hardardt, manager of Elements Salon in Oxted, Surrey, is also looking at her team. “Our core values have not changed, but within them there is scope for change. Before lockdown we had started a self-leadership programme, ‘The Hero Advantage’, based on the premise that with more autonomy a team member will flourish, enjoy work more and be more engaged. Social distancing rules have increased autonomy, so why not go with it?”

H … NEED A LITTLE KNOW-HOW TO NAVIGATE AND GROW YOUR BUSINESS? FREDDIE BANKS, GENERAL MANAGER UK & IRELAND FOR KÉRASTASE AND SHU UEMURA ART OF HAIR, IS HERE TO SHARE SOME INSIDER KNOWLEDGE…

JOE HEMMINGS BLOGGS SALON, BRISTOL I’m looking at ways of giving my team more time off. It’s an idea that I have flirted with over the years but with my team having spent more time at home with loved ones and finding new interests, they will want to continue this and have re-evaluated their work/ life balance. By allowing the team to work longer hours but fewer days, it will enable them to spend more time to do those things. The Covid-19 crisis has made me re-evaluate what the business is and I want the overarching philosophy to be how you feel about yourself.

DELIVER A GREAT EXPERIENCE IN A POST COVID-19 WORLD

Before the crisis, customer experience was fast becoming the number one driver for business. Delighting customers on every step of the salon journey was a way to ensure loyalty. But how do you deliver great customer experience with restrictions and social distancing guidelines? First, what is deemed as a ‘good’ or ‘bad’ experience is usually judged on whether it lived up to expectations or not. Therefore, it’s important to make sure your clients are aware the experience they have been used to will be very different in the future. No magazines, perhaps no refreshments, the use of PPE such as visors, the list goes on. But this doesn’t mean it will be a ‘bad’ experience; you just need to manage expectations. Over the past six weeks I feel that we have seen a rapid acceleration of digital adoption that is probably equivalent to what we would have done in six years! Having a video call with my 98-yearold grandmother was something I would never have expected to do. So how are you optimising

digitalisation within your customer experience to ensure it’s as smooth as possible? Offering online bookings, pre-payment and digital consultations are all a great place to start. You could also think about offering ‘click and collect’ services for your retail business. Finally, when it comes to customer experience, remember that your clients are going through their own experiences and many could be craving human contact. So, balancing the need to get back to business alongside being even more sensitive to what your clients need from you is important. And after all, human connection is what you and your teams do best.

TOP TIPS FOR GREAT CUSTOMER EXPERIENCE

Manage the expectations of each client by communicating what is changing and why. Adopt digitalisation in the customer journey. Focus on the human connection and be sensitive to your client’s individual experiences.

WANT TO KNOW HOW YOU CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS WITH KéRASTASE? CALL 0800 085 4958 OR VISIT KERASTASE.CO.UK 22

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2020 12:40

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#BusinessEdit

KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION “As a new business there is me, my barber and my graduate stylist – we all muck in as a junior at the moment! I feel like my team would benefit from someone with experience (more of a senior role) and this would help with training also. In the current climate – we’ve been through a devastating flood as well as lockdown – would you entertain taking on someone new?” BROOKE EVANS, BE IRONBRIDGE

KEN’S DIAGNOSIS

This is an interesting question, especially when we were still considering the restrictions coming into play after lockdown as we went to press. At any time you should only take on new team members if you can justify them financially. We would normally look at the volume of work that you’re turning away to see if the business can provide enough work for a new team member, but post-lockdown all salons will be artificially busy. I know that you get involved with session work away from the salon and work with a major brand but, with the current size of your team, you need to be their mentor and role model. There is always a conflict between trying to build a business and taking time out for other ventures. Any work done outside your salon must bring added PR benefits to your salon and should be maximised as such. Another experienced person would come with a price tag and you need to be sure that you can absorb this cost during the initial period as they build a column. Nowadays this can take anywhere from 12 to 18 months, perhaps longer. Depending on what you would have to pay someone, you would need them to be generating about £1,500 net of VAT a week to be cost efficient in your salon. Were you all generating that in your salon before lockdown? If you’re going to involve

the new team member in training then you will need to compensate them for the time they are off the floor, but this will also reduce their income-producing ability. This is why the owner does most of the training in small salons or outsources it. After lockdown your key focus is generating income. After the initial tsunami of clients, it’s possible that business could slow down. Many customers will still be wary of visiting a salon, many will have learned new skills and may feel they no longer need us. We are going to need to inspire clients with new ideas and techniques to remind them of what makes a visit to a salon so valuable. Unless they perceive us as valuable, why would they spend the money that you need to charge to be profitable? Which brings me to my key post-lockdown focus for salon owners. If you haven’t spent lockdown totally understanding exactly how and where you generate profit, then you have missed a golden opportunity. Most salons make profit by accident and not by intentional planning. Most prices are set based upon the competition and not by understanding the true costs of delivering a service. Salons have lost a massive chunk of their annual income and many of their costs have still remained, albeit postponed temporarily. Many salons have needed to incur debt to survive but will now need to service that debt, albeit postponed temporarily. All salons will have the extra cost of complying with the operating restrictions placed upon them and the health and safety routines they will have to implement, let alone the added burden of increased National Minimum Wage. All of this may come at a heavy cost and, if a salon was not generating excess profit before lockdown, then where is the money going to come from to cover these costs? This may not sound the answer to your question, Brooke, but believe me it is. You need to consider all of it before you take the leap.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag 24

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2020 12:41

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10/10/2019 13:04

#BusinessEdit

TIPS FOR TIPPING A survey by Ask Traders suggests the hairdressing industry could miss out on £81m in tips as clients return and go cashless to reduce the risk of spreading coronavirus. The survey also found that 63 per cent of consumers would avoid tipping if they couldn’t use cash. “Ask clients to add tips to their contactless or card payment instead,” advises NHBF director Tina BeaumontGoddard. “But bear in mind that this will affect how tips have to be dealt with from a tax and National Insurance point of view.” If you do allow cash tips, Tina suggests providing a slotted container for each member of staff for clients to use. She says: “It should be regularly sanitised and, to be on the safe side, the money inside should be washed too. Hands should always be washed after handling the container or the money in it.” NHBF members can download a free fact sheet about this at nhbf.co.uk/tipping

RISK ASSESSMENTS: WHAT YOU NEED TO DO TO BE READY for reopening you will need to carry out a detailed risk assessment to ensure you’re taking every precaution you can to protect your employees and clients when you’re back in business. “As part of your risk assessment, consult with your employees,” says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “Make sure you act on any workable suggestions that will help everyone to manage their workload as safely as possible and reduce anxiety levels.” Be aware that failing to complete a risk assessment, or completing one but then failing to follow through on the safety measures required to manage the risk of coronavirus, could result in a breach of health and safety law. “Finally, when you write to your staff to tell them about plans for reopening, include a copy of the completed risk assessment and list the measures you are taking to help keep them safe,” adds Hilary. NHBF members can download free Covid-19 coronavirus resources including risk assessments

Law: leave can be carried over

Gear up your clean machine

SOME EMPLOYMENT LAW has changed during lockdown, reveals NHBF director Tina Beaumont-Goddard. “For example, employees can now carry over up to four weeks’ (20 days for those who are full time) paid statutory annual leave from their current leave year into the next two annual leave years.” This is to ensure that employees who could not take their statutory annual leave due to the Covid-19 coronavirus will not lose it. Other new employment laws have also come into force in 2020. Find out more at nhbf.co.uk/new-employment-law

MAKE SURE YOU have shared with your staff a schedule for cleaning, disinfection and sterilisation in the salon throughout the day and make sure they understand what is required, says NHBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “It’s also a good idea to put up posters around your salon or barber shop reminding staff of key actions they must take before and after each client’s appointment.” This will include, for example, washing hands, using single-use tools or cleaning/ sterilising reusable ones such as face visors, cleaning any furniture, equipment, door handles, payment machines and so on that the client may have touched, and changing towels, gowns and any PPE used on the client. “It’s also important to ensure clients understand what is required of them,” says Hilary. “Remind them verbally and via posters that they should touch as little as possible.” A free reopening guide can be downloaded at nhbf.co.uk/back-to-business-guide. Non-members will need to register on the NHBF website to download it: nhbf.co.uk/join

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24/06/2020 12:41

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

SOPHIA HILTON’S

(OF NOT ANOTHER SALON) POST CORONA COLOUR COURSE ONLINE! FIVE HOURS OF EDUCATION WITH SOPHIA HILTON COST: £100 WATCH AS MANY TIMES AS YOU LIKE!

“There is so much talk on the internet about life after reopening right now, but the one thing we weren’t talking about was what’s going to be the most challenging for our colourists, and that’s the colour itself. “Five months of roots, grown-out bleach and DIY disasters... This is the reality of what we will face, and there are lots of colourists out there feeling anxious about having such challenges in their chair once they get back. My favourite thing as an educator is to settle those feelings of anxiety. “It seems like a good idea to change this frightening time into an exciting time, and start to think about all the creative ways we can change our clients over to new looks, now we have the space to do it in. And remember this: so many of our clients have been doing their hair at home and it has never been more important to make sure that you are doing something special that they cannot replicate; our business depends on that.”

SOPHIA HILTON

OVER 1,000 COPIES SOLD ACROSS 15 COUNTRIES. THE UK’S BIGGEST SELLING COURSE IN LOCKDOWN!

INCLUDED IN THE COURSE:

Charging/price increases/PPE Long re-growths/colour corrections theory Safeguarding against complaints Demo highlight to balayage conversion – two techniques

AVAILABLE AT BIT.LY/POSTCORONACOLOUR @NOTANOTHERSALON @NOTANOTHERACADEMY @HILTONSOPHIA

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16/06/2020 09:15

#BusinessEdit

MISSION CONTROL

PUTTING YOU IN THE DRIVING SEAT OF YOUR SALON in association with Phorest Salon Software

DUE TO SALON closures because of the Covid-19 coronavirus crisis, this issue we explore how we can learn from our European counterparts about life after lockdown. We investigate the facts and figures behind Germany’s reopening and the tools that can help reopened salons stay safe and enjoy a boost to business.

30% OF GERMAN SALONS ARE OPEN ONE EXTRA DAY A WEEK POST-LOCKDOWN

WILLKOMMEN!

IN THE WEEKS AFTER REOPENING, GERMAN SALONS SAW…

+12% +23%

IN RETAIL REVENUE

IN SERVICES REVENUE

+€9(£8) AVERAGE TICKET PRICE

THE MISSION: BOOSTING RETAIL REVENUE ONLINE Salons looking for additional revenue streams that don’t require in-salon visits are turning to the new Online Store feature with Phorest

£3,016.92

average revenue of top 10 Online Stores in May

£60.52 average online sale

“In the ﬁrst 24 hours I had £530-worth of orders. That helped cover my full rent for the next month. I was over the moon! We’re appointment-only and encourage people not to be here unless we’re expecting them to be, so having the Online Store stops a lot of clients walking into the salon to buy products. It also looks more professional and will help us attract more clients in the future.” SOPHIE GRAHAM, SOPHIE GRAHAM HAIR

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DID YOU KNOW… SALONS SHOULD PREPARE TO MAKE MORE MONEY POST-LOCKDOWN

FIRST UP, let’s say this: you made it through lockdown, which makes you a hero. It has been a long few months of waiting and anticipating when salons might be able to open their doors again but finally the end is here! Reopening while the ‘new normal’ of the future is still being written is no easy task. While waiting has been tough, one benefit has been looking to urope to see how the first month of reopening has been for them. Thanks to an increasing client base in Germany, Phorest was able to analyse the stats of the first few weeks of reopening and discover that salons have been seeing more clients, working more hours and making more revenue than in their pre-lockdown life. It showed the importance of boosting retail revenue, opening extra hours and increasing service prices to allow for charges. Technology is also making safe, successful and long-term reopening easier in a postlockdown world. Phorest has launched a suite of new features that make contact tracing, pre-appointment digital consultations and essential messaging possible for every booking as well as a client specific I online booking functionality to let salons control their first bookings in the smartest way possible. The jewel in the crown is a new Online Store function, an easy to set-up way of introducing online retail that is already connected to your stock levels and client lists. For more information on the Phorest features that are helping salons, visit phorest.com. And for all salons, whatever software you use, go to phorest.com/back-in-business to access free tools, templates and calculators to help you as you reopen safely and successfully. Shauna O’Halloran is content & marketing manager at Phorest Salon Software. Find out more at phorest.com and @phorestsalonsoftware ATI

24/06/2020 12:42

AIRCurl NEW

An Industry First from Diva Pro Styling Heated barrel with cold air curl fixing system Lower heat required - kinder to hair for longer-lasting styles

INTENSO4000PRO NEW

Compact, lightweight and powerful for all-day styling

Visit divapro.co.uk or contact your local wholesaler

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03/07/2020 15:30

COLOUR VISION EDUCATION

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

WELCOME TO THE FAMILY

FOR A LIMITED TIME, WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS OFFERING FREE ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EDUCATION CONTENT FROM THE #WELLAFAMILY All salons can benefit from three ama ing online Wella seminars in the olor raft series for free. This limited time offer covers olor raft ssential olor raft ighlights and olor raft orrection. ach online seminar is minutes long and gives students the perfect start on their ourney to becoming truly confident in colour. This is usually a blended learning e perience bringing online and face to face education into one seminar. Wella has shaken things up so you can benefit from learning the theory when and where

you want with the benefit of specific bespoke hands on sessions with your ama ing Wella ducator. or a limited time only Wella has opened up the courses for all salons to begin working through allowing them to earn a certificate from home and for free The online training works in modules at the end of which there are uestions. ach module is designed to feature the technical background to the decisions that hairdressers need to make on a daily basis. o what are you waiting for

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

IONALS TECHNICAL DIRECTOR UK & IRELAND, HOW TO SATISFY CLIENTS WHILE KEEPING EVERYONE SAFE? ROBERT EATON, WELLA PROFESS KNOWS THAT EXPRESS COLOUR SERVICES NEED TO BE THE FUTURE OF SALON APPOINTMENTS “Time will be crucial for us all as we get back to the new normal in salons. We are working hard to look after our clients, and there will be huge demand for our services. One of the areas we have been focusing on with our team is a possible change in the kind of services and techniques we expect our clients to request. We’re anticipating a shift in trends towards colour placement, conscious colouring and techniques that ensure the perfect colour blend. A move towards a softer saturation of tone and glossing techniques seems on the cards. Glossing techniques and express colour will be an important tool for us to use on our return to salon life. It will enable us to create high-impact colour results with ease, and in timings that work well for post-lockdown appointments. Glossing services can offer great shine and condition while blending grey and white hairs, giving a more modern colour result and one that offers less maintenance to clients. One important tool is the virtual consultation; it helps us with time management and planning appointments. Hair aside, it will also help us establish if clients are conscious about how long they spend in the salon when there’s still anxiety around social distancing. Express lightening techniques, using Blondor Mèche Cream and heat application, also offer amazing results within salon-friendly appointment times.”

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CREATIVE HEAD

16/06/2020 09:06

SHELFIE TIME

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

#ColourVision

“I’m a massive fan of the Wella Professionals Blondor range and couldn’t be without it. Blondor Mèches is a really exciting product, especially if you’re a fan of freehand lightening like I am. You can create blonde highlights with up to 5 levels of lift in just 15 minutes with heat, as it has a genius way of automatically slowing down the lightening effect when the development time is complete. It gives perfect control over highlighting – what more could you want?” CHARLOTTE HICKEY, HAIR BY CHARLOTTE

WHY I’M WELLA

I’ve worked with Wella Professionals my whole career and I am proud of the incredible relationship we have together. I work closely with my partners Clive Collins and Paul Simbler, and Wella Professionals is our other partner. As much as they are a part of our business, we are part of theirs, with regular meetings and discussions to develop both companies. The opportunities we have had together – through international shows and platform education – have been amazing. We have worked together with Wella Professionals to push boundaries with colour, with education, with motivating hairdressers around the world and with the products and tools we use. Wella Professionals is conscious of the wellbeing and development of the industry, as well as the consumer, and the hairdresser is at the forefront of everything it does. Wella Professionals is truly a family that is there whenever we need it, through good times and bad.” AKIN KONIZI, INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, HOB ACADEMY

CONTINUING EDUCATION IS THE ONLY WAY TO KEEP YOUR SKILLS FRESH. TAKE THE EXPRESS HIGHLIGHTS WITH BLONDOR MÈCHES CREAM MASTERCLASS WITH ROBERT EATON TO FEEL CONFIDENT IN CREATING PERFECT HIGHLIGHTS IN NEXT TO NO TIME. AVAILABLE ONLINE AT EDUCATION.WELLA.COM NOW. @wellahairuk #MakeChange #WellaColour

Wella Professionals

CREATIVE HEAD

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@WellaUK 31

CONTINUING EDUCATION IS THE ONLY WAY TO KEEP YOUR SKILLS FRESH.

22/06/2020 12:04

express highlights natural looking, sunkissed hair

makechange Hair by Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals Technical Director UK&I

BLONDOR BLONDE MÃ&#x2C6;CHES YOUR FAVOURITE SALON LIGHTENER IN A NEW LIGHT, IN HALF THE TIME 5 LEVELS OF LIFT IN 15 MINS * Controlled and reliable lightening

REQUIRES HEAT

Up to 5 levels of lift in 15 minutes with the addition of heat Multi-tonal results when used alongside multiple colours

YOUR PERFECT PARTNER FOR REOPENING With the use of heat you are able to half the development time of your colour, maximising on column time enabling you to fit in one more colour client per working day.

FIND OUT MORE Talk to your Account Manager/Education Team or visit education.wella.com to find out more. uk.wellastore.com | @wellahairuk | #WellaColour

*When developed under heat.

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15/06/2020 12:56

SPRING/2019

FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS

CLUB

cH CREATIVE HEAD

FOR BUSINESS

NEW RULES: Have fun

Make lots of

Money

Be number one TH I

AS T

EE T

the

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ESTD

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18/02/2019 10:18

• ONE YEAR OF CREATIVE HEAD MAGAZINE DELIVERED TO YOUR DOOR • DISCOUNTED TICKETS TO SELECTED CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS • EXCLUSIVE COMPETITIONS AND PRIZES • FREE PRODUCT SAMPLES

The ﬁrst 20 readers to sign up in July will receive a Fudge Professional Luminizer Shampoo and Conditioner, Aqua Blow Dry Primer, Skyscraper and Matte Hed, worth £67.* One lucky Creative HEAD Club member will win a goodie bag of Fudge Professional products, worth £158.50

*For the ﬁrst 20 new members to sign up between 1 July and 31 July 2020. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered. **All prizes will be sent post-lockdown.

YOU WILL RECEIVE:

ALREADY A CLUB MEMBER? SEARCH THIS ISSUE FOR A PLATINUM TICKET. FIND ONE AND YOU’LL HAVE SCOOPED ONE OF THESE TWO INCREDIBLE PRIZES**

How about a gorgeous AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Glow gift set and a line-up of styling goodies to try, worth more than £120? It’s full of vegan goodness…

Get your virtual learn on with Kao Salon Division. You’ll get to enjoy a digital session worth £185 with KMS ambassador and current It List It Guy, Jamie Benny! Ooh, as seen on screen!

Join the Creative HEAD Club now for FREE! Visit creativeheadmag.com/club 034_ClubPlatinum.indd 1

18/06/2020 13:31

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ABC Cl

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Mas

THE AUTHENTIC ARTISANS

SALONS AND STYLISTS ACROSS THE COUNTRY HAVE EMBRACED THE NO-FILTER FORMULA OF TRUTH, INDIVIDUALITY AND REALITY OF AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, AND AS A COMMUNITY HAS SEEN THEIR BUSINESSES GROW. AS LOCKDOWN STRUCK, THAT COMMUNITY SPIRIT KICKED IN EVEN FURTHER AND, AS WE REOPEN, THEY’LL BE THERE ONCE AGAIN TO HELP CLIENTS DEALING WITH SO MUCH IN THEIR LIVES FIND A LITTLE PEACE, A MOMENT FOR THEMSELVES. LET’S FIND OUT HOW AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT IS A PARTNER THEY’RE PROUD OF

TEAM PLAYERS

The newly renovated Tim Scott Wright @ The Hair Surgery in Stourbridge also has a relatively new name on the shelves. It’s a big decision to change the products you work with every day, but it wasn’t a decision taken by founder Tim alone. He says: “The salon’s switch to AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT was initiated by the team, who were keen to find products that are forward-thinking, cruelty-free and vegan.” Being included in the decision making meant that the team was already committed to the brand, excited about using the products and motivated to tell their clients all about them, making retail sales easy.

FROM THE SALON, WITH LOVE When salons closed because of the Covid-19 pandemic, many loyal clients were keen to show their support in a very real way, knowing these valuable local businesses wouldn’t have any income for some time. One method of support was online shopping. At Mewies & Co in Leicester, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT UK ambassador Dan Mewies has been working hard to ensure every delivery is a hand-picked parcel of perfection. “It’s not just about selling products; it’s the concept of creating a generation of people who embrace a ‘no-filter’ and ‘be authentic’ attitude,” he says.

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KNOWLEDGE IS POWER

VEGAN = GREAT FOR HAIR

As part of the brand’s commitment to supporting the hairdressing community during lockdown, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT unveiled a free-to-use education hub, accessible from its UK website. Packed full of tutorials and podcasts, stylists could get to know the brand, learn more about how AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT products work and be inspired with demonstrations from some of the world’s top hairdessers including Adam Garland, Hester Wernert-Rijn and JeanPhilippe Beaupied. What’s more, there’s a comprehensive glossary of hair product vocabulary, providing a valuable tool for professionals keen to brush up on their product knowledge and information about the powerful ingredients found in AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT ranges, such as basil, mango, green tea, date and cinnamon extract. Every Wednesday an ‘ingredient of the week’ was shared on its Instagram Stories @authenticbeautyconceptuk too. Do you have a favourite?

The benefits to hair are actually pretty clear. Vegan haircare doesn’t contain any additives such as parabens, sulphates or silicones, which means hair’s natural oils are preserved and colour is prolonged – something clients certainly notice in between appointments. Because they’re packed with natural ingredients, vegan products are generally more hydrating and work to promote all-round healthier hair. At Mewies & Co, they’ve found that this moisture-rich quality can be particularly beneficial for clients experiencing hair loss. Founder Dan Mewies says: “Our clients appreciate the efforts we make as a salon to be ethical and environmentally friendly. The use of vegan products helps us to commit to a more ‘conscious’ culture in our salon.” We’ve all become more conscious of what we use and consume, which has a direct impact on what you decide to stock in the salon. Joseph Ferraro, owner of Joseph Ferraro Hair in Harrogate, says: “Knowing that our products are vegan and cruelty-free is peace of mind for us and our environmentally-conscious clientele.”

SE-REN-I-TY {NOUN}

THE STATE OR QUALITY OF BEING SERENE, CALM OR TRANQUIL; SERENENESS Illness, work stress, isolation from loved ones – there has been plenty in recent months to cause your clients anxiety and worry. How wonderful would it be if you could take all that away, just for a few precious moments… That’s where an AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Memento service can make a real difference. It allows the hairdresser to customise treatments and services to best suit their clients’ mood, schedule and hair needs. It’s a sensorial treat, with stylists mixing a carefully selected Essence with a chosen Mask from the range to create a bespoke care treatment. For an extended Memento service, a combination of massage gestures are incorporated to aid inner peace, reviving beauty from within. For a final moment of calm, special earplugs and a blindfold block out the outside world so clients can take a moment to pause and reconnect with themselves.

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18/06/2020 15:19

EVERYDAY EFFORTLESS

MANY HAVE EMBRACED A LOW MAINTENANCE VIBE WHEN IT COMES TO LOCKDOWN BEAUTY, SOMETHING THAT CHIMES PERFECTLY WITH AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT’S MISSION. AMBASSADORS DAN MEWIES, OWNER OF MEWIES & CO; AND JOSEPH FERRARO, OWNER OF JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR; ARE READY WITH TWO LOOKS THAT DEMONSTRATE CAREFREE CHIC – JUST WHAT CLIENTS NEED

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15/06/2020 16:52

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

A TOUSLED FINISH FROM DAN MEWIES

SOFT AND UNDONE FROM JOSEPH FERRARO

1. Start with AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Amplify

1. Apply AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Amplify Mousse

Mousse on damp hair. Tilt the hair forward and rough dry until all the moisture is removed. This will offer volume to soften the roots and enhance the lift.

and gently blow-dry the hair with a round brush.

2. If you feel the hair needs it, gently run a straightener through, though I recommend leaving the hair to form a more natural wave.

3. Use a hair bobble to gently pull the hair into a low ponytail but don’t apply this too close to the root and nape. Leave it loose so the hair hangs a little more.

4. Pull a small piece of hair away from the rest of the tail and wrap around the bobble, securing it with a small grip underneath. You could even use a small piece of ribbon to wrap around.

5. Finally, apply AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Working Hairspray and then tease pieces with your fingers to add height at the root, or add texture for a more organic finish.

2. For texture and hold, spritz AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Nymph Salt Spray on each section before tonging it to create a wave, not a curl. When wrapping the hair around the tong make sure you twist the hair and then run the tong up and down the hair shaft for a loose, beach wave effect.

3. Once it’s all tonged, loosely pick up the top half of the hair to create a messy knot that has a very undone feel. Try not to overdo it, and don’t play around too much. Let it take shape organically.

4. When you’re happy with the knot, pinch the top section of the hair and drag it forward to create a soft texture.

5. To finish, apply a touch more AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT Nymph Salt Spray while using your hands to scrunch it into the hair.

As a brand founded on collaboration, AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT firmly believes in co-creation. Discover more about the #authenticbeautymovement at authenticbeautyconcept.com @authenticbeautyconcept

#MyBelief

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# MYBELIEF

BEAUTY STARTS FROM WITHIN. Authentic beauty begins the very moment you decide to be yourself. When you’re present in the now that’s when you rebalance your mind and soul. Look within and bring out your inner beauty to truly express yourself. #AuthenticBeautyMovement.

ALIANA KING Model & Artist

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THE PUSH FOR CHANGE

The Black Lives Matter movement has forced the hair industry to confront its lack of representation and diversity. Catch up with discussions of the issues and the path to change on Instagram TV

Training issues and incoming immigration legislation is impacting recruitment – how is this going to affect you? Take our survey online now

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It’s time. Exclusively unveiled on 8 July, meet the super-talented #MWIT20 finalists battling it out for the 20 category crowns come 29 November

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THINGS

IN 40 YEARS, ALFAPARF MILANO HAS EVOLVED FROM HUMBLE ITALIAN BEGINNINGS TO MASSIVE WORLDWIDE DEMAND – A SUCCESS STORY BORN OUT OF A DESIRE TO CREATE BEAUTIFUL HAIR STORIES FROM BOTTLES OF SHAMPOO AND TUBES OF COLOUR. THIS IS A BRAND THAT EMBRACES CHANGE – AND IN 2020 IT’S STILL MOVING FORWARD

1980

ALFAPARF Milano is born in Italy. Then something amazing happened: demand for the products steadily grew, reaching South America, Asia, Australia and, eventually, all over the world.

CREATING

COLOUR

very second across ﬁve continents a woman leaves a hair salon wearing ALFAPARF Milano hair colour. It’s a colour that is superior; that exceeds expectations. A colour that’s formulated with the latest technology and the typically Italian approach to doing everything to perfection.

PROVIDING

CARE

Their colour may turn heads, but ALFAPARF Milano is an expert at treating hair as well. From thirsty to unruly to frizzy – no matter what the issue, it can solve it. Indulgent textures and incredible fragrances make ALFAPARF Milano care treatments the most luxurious experience.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

CHANGE! BUILDING

STYLE

DESIGNING

SHAPE

The high-performing Keratin Therapy Lisse Design shaping service respects the quality of hair.

elivering what holds ﬁ es and messes up – so that people can be true to themselves. Because whether it’s simplistic, chic or boldly unconventional styling helps e press personality and originality every day.

2020

ALFAPARF Milano is now the #1 Italian brand in the professional cosmetics channel worldwide – and still a family owned company A new ondon ofﬁce opened this year, offers even more opportunities to grow and to support the UK industry with advice, business-building projects and endless education. A Presto!

START YOUR JOURNEY WITH ALFAPARF MILANO. TO DISCOVER MORE, VISIT ALFAPARFMILANO.COM, EMAIL CUSTOMERSERVICEUK@ALFAPARF.COM OR CALL 020 7849 3251

CREATIVE HEAD

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15/06/2020 16:56

WE HAVE LIFT OFF!

After waiting more than three months, salons in England and Northern Ireland have opened their doors to a clamouring public, with Wales and Scotland welcoming clients back imminently. Everyone knows salon life won’t be the same; staff will be under enormous pressure in the hot summer, wearing visors while working to see as many clients as possible across longer days... all while regularly cleaning and keeping a safe distance. It’s a challenge, but we’re with you – ready to give you the fuel you need for a stratospheric relaunch

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CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2020 14:16

TO PROTECT AND SERVE

GATSBY & MILLER HAS BEEN REDESIGNED TO BE COVID-19 SAFE. FOUNDER JOHN ROADS TALKS US THROUGH THE CHANGES HE HAS MADE TO THE SALON EXPERIENCE L’Oréal Professionnel salon partner Gatsby & Miller in Amersham shared its new-look space with The Daily Telegraph, illustrating how lots of UK salons were preparing for life post-lockdown, even if at the time no government guidelines had been shared. With protective screens at reception and the backwash, and stylists wearing PPE, this was a detailed look at the client journey through the salon. Founder John Roads has a background in risk assessment and health and safety, so perhaps was a step ahead in pre-planning while waiting for government guidelines to be issued. But he also worked with L’Oréal Professional Product Division’s Back-to-Business support guide as well as keeping a close eye on salons reopening across Europe. It’s not been easy – the price of gloves has risen and protective screen prices tripled between en uiry and ﬁtting such is demand. He stresses that these are all precautionary measures taken following a diligent risk assessment. From a health questionnaire and hand sanitiser at the entrance to consultations via the mirror and a client PPE pack, there are control measures in place to minimise risk throughout. So what about clients feeling like their appointment is a treat, a luxurious experience? “It’s the biggest single challenge for the industry,” he admits. “It’s about rebuilding trust and a sense of balance between an experience and a safe environment.”

CREATIVE HEAD

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24/06/2020 12:43

IN YOUR DEFENCE

BOTH CLIENTS AND STAFF ARE CONCERNED ABOUT SAFETY, SO YOU NEED TO REASSURE THEM THAT YOU’RE ON TOP OF HYGIENE. HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

Face visors

Face visors are required PPE for all staff under the government guidelines. A visor should extend to below the chin, cover the ears and leave no exposed gap between the forehead and the headpiece. They are reusable and easy to clean, and help keep people from touching their own faces. Denman offers the HeroShield, a faceguard originally developed for use in the NHS.

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D isinfectant

Staff will need plenty of disinfectant to clean everything from chairs to tools. Remember that cleaning with a detergent-based liquid should precede disinfecting. As with handwashing, the detergent molecules break down the shell of the virus, and the disinfectant then kills anything that remains. You need to disinfect each piece of your kit after use with each client, and store them in an airtight container. When with a client, have a designated tray or space that you place used tools into so that you know what to clean, before storing away. Concentrated liquids, hand sanitiser, handy spray bottles and tool jars – Disicide from Hair Tools offers all manner of disinfectant solutions. hairtools.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2020 14:41

Perspex screens

Liquid soap

‘Mitigating actions’ in goverment guidelines to reduce risk include screens and barriers, which are suggested between clients where practical. It’s another large surface that will need cleaning regularly, however.

For both staff and clients to use, and plenty of it as regular handwashing remains one of the most effective precautions. Look into touch-free soap dispensers for the bathroom to reduce exposed touch-points.

Cling film

Once disinfected, you can wrap tools with cling ﬁlm if you don t have air tight storage for them. It’s another clear sign to clients that you’re taking their hygiene and safety seriously, so stock up and get into the habit.

Hand sanitiser

D isposables

Set up multiple hand sanitiser stations around the salon, including at the front door. isibly applying sanitiser at the station before beginning any service goes a long way to instilling trust.

Think gloves, aprons, capes and towels, most of which are available from your wholesaler. Consider disposable capes and neck guards and remember a fresh set of disposables should be used for each client.

Bin liners

With so many single-use items, you’ll be going through bin liners at an exceptional rate. You should dispose of each bin liner by carefully sealing them, wiping the bin down and then putting in a new liner.

GARY HOOKER AND MICHAEL YOUNG HOOKER & YOUNG We are missing a chair in between each station, which gives us more than two metres between each seated client. We have given each stylist their own zone of two seats which they work at exclusively. The idea is to try to minimise how long each client will be in the salon. We’re trying to keep it down to 90 minutes. We’ve decided to stop all blow-drying to give us more time to clean between client visits. The additional time, about 20 minutes, is used to fully sanitise each work station in preparation. It ensures that we are working within guidelines and giving each client the assurance that we are doing everything possible to create the safest environment for them and for our salon team.

Masks

Required now on public transport, face masks and coverings are not required for stylists or clients but many might still opt to wear them. Masks are ineffective when wet, so you’ll want spares at the backwash for those using them. A ﬁve layer ﬁlter system is built into these reathe and rotect protective facemasks, available in child and adult sizes, and you can even brand them with your salon logo. breatheandprotect.com

ELENA TAYLEUR LINNAEAN We are a Goldwell and Oribe ambassador salon and we’ve used the Kao Salon Recovery Guide to help get us back to work. In acknowledgment of our menu price range and appropriate client market we are hosting only four working hairdressers at any one time. The extra allowance is being communicated to all clients on booking our services in order to increase their conﬁdence. ur team wears including full-face screens and disposable aprons, while clients wear disposable gowns and disposable towels, and masks at their discretion. At the front desk there is a full protective screen. We no longer accept cash and have four machines that are sterilised after every use. We are still working from our original service menu but adding a e ible cover charge for materials.

Don’t forget L’Oréal Professionnel’s free 30-minute Hygiene & Safety e-learning module, available to all hairdressers For each completed course and certiﬁcate issued, it’s donating 1 to beauty charities, up to a total of 10,000. emember to clearly display your certiﬁcate in the salon so clients know you’ve done it! Visit uk.lorealaccess.com for more information

ATI

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24/06/2020 12:44

Melissa Timperley

ad Apple air

Slidercuts ut

SOMETHING TO SHOUT ABOUT

YOU’VE SPENT TIME, EFFORT AND HARD CASH GETTING THE SALON AS SAFE AND CLEAN AS POSSIBLE – BUT YOU NEED CLIENTS TO DO THEIR BIT, TOO. HOW DO YOU GET THEM ONSIDE? Having planned for the day that you’d be back in the salon you’re aware it’s a different place to the one you knew before. You’ll have been through training days to make sure the team is up to speed, but clients have a role to play here – they need to be active participants in the new protocols, and it’s best to share all the details so that they come to the salon fully prepped. Melissa Timperley, founder of the eponymous salon in Manchester, has implemented temperature checks into her ‘house rules’, which also include no waiting in reception. “Unfortunately, our costs have gone up signiﬁcantly since introducing stringent hygiene measures,” says Melissa. “So, we’re telling everyone up front that to survive as a business we need to temporarily increase our prices to cover these costs.”

Action plan

EGO HAIR DESIGN IN SCOTLAND REOPENS IN MID JULY. OWNER CAROLINE SANDERSON SHARES HER GOALS o Have our hygiene action plan on our website, pin it to the top of social media and when clients book send an SMS with a link to the information o Share the Barbicide hygiene course staff have completed o Place instructions around the salon so clients know what they can and can t do with guides on the oor o lients who need patch tests will be invited in for the patch test appointment a day or two prior to opening o Use a private room for our more vulnerable clients

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ELENA LAVAGNI NEVILLE HAIR & BEAUTY We are following strict guidelines in order to protect the safety of clients and employees. Each client has their temperature taken using an infrared thermometer if it s above . they’re sent home immediately. Before any services, all clients entering the salon are asked questions about symptoms, too. To practice social distancing we accept clients by appointment only, through telephone or online scheduling. We recommend clients wait outside the salon until the stylist is ready. There is no kitchen service, so clients are asked to bring their own food and beverages. To limit the risk of infection there is no cloakroom service either. We have shared our client protocols on our website and social media to prepare guests and our automatic SMS appointment reminders contain a link to them too.

ATI

24/06/2020 14:17

BACK TO BUSINESS WITH THE NHBF Information. Inspiration.

Join us today!

www.nhbf.co.uk

AS YOU OPEN YOUR DOORS TO YOUR CLIENTS YOU’LL BE FEELING A SPECTRUM OF EMOTIONS – EXCITEMENT, TREPIDATION, CONFUSION, ANXIETY AND EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN. LET KAO SALON DIVISION SUPPORT YOU DURING THESE UNPRECEDENTED TIMES AND ENABLE YOU TO THRIVE

WELCOME BACK HOME OF SALON favourites Goldwell, KMS and Oribe, Kao Salon Division is on the side of salons around the globe, helping them to navigate every stage of this crisis. It has launched a Salon Recovery Guide designed to help salon owners, their teams and their clients as they reopen and work through the stages of recovery. And it has mapped out a ﬁve point plan to get you on that road immediately! “From the moment the salon doors closed our priority has been to walk hand in hand with our salon partners and stylists. Bringing the salon community together, listening to them and learning with them to develop plans to get the industry back to recovery as quickly as possible,” says Julie Winchester, general manager of Kao Salon Division, UK, Ireland and South Africa. “We believe in the power of the collective and know that together we will be resilient and come out of this stronger than ever.”

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CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2020 12:10

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

REDESIGN YOUR SALON ENVIRONMENT

Government regulations linked to social distancing mean you will need to look again at the environment within your salon to ensure that you’re operating in a safe space. From distance between chairs to going cashless, you need to ensure your clients feel safe and comfortable and will be able to relax and enjoy their service. It will also help give your stylists conﬁdence in how they need to operate. roﬁt is the biggest focus for salon owners, so with the increase of costs due to hygiene measures, protective equipment and disposable items, it’s vital that you’re staying on top of these extras and not losing money. Now is the perfect time to press the reset button and make changes – don’t be afraid to increase your prices. The client experience is so important to ensure rebookings are made, retail is purchased and the whole feelgood factor is created during the appointment time. Yes, everyone might be behind PPE and things look a little different, but you can ensure that behind any mask is still a smile that you’ve created through your service!

LOOK AFTER YOUR TEAM

FILLING YOUR COLUMNS

It s essential that the team is conﬁdent in how they need to operate and prioritise the care of themselves and their clients. The better your team is trained, the fewer questions will arise when you need all the time you have for your clients. This will create a positive mentality within the salon and will ensure stylists feel safe and that will ow through to their clients. And don’t forget allergy alert testing – it’s another way to illustrate how you’re protecting everyone’s safety, just in case a client has used products since their last visit that could potentially cause a reaction.

ou need to be driving the most profitable services while ensuring columns are running at maximum capacity with the new ways of working. Being on top of your appointments and prioritising them will be invaluable making you as profitable as possible across this recovery period. Evaluate your colour services versus your cut and style to find a way that fits your stylists rotas and brings the greatest value to you. And we’re all used to video calls now, so why not include virtual consultations? This will help you save time and reach out to clients before they visit the salon, enabling you to anticipate their needs.

MAXIMISING PROFITABILITY

SUPPORTING YOUR CLIENTS

With high demand but lower capacity, you need to consider the quick wins you can make, with new service and package concepts and upgrading services. The Goldwell portfolio gives you the tools to offer uick five minute colour services and free up valuable time. From olorance press Toning to refine and the Soft Colour Service using foam, New Blonde services to soften harsh contrasts (including regrowth) and a men’s Reshade service, you can do a lot in five minutes And it s not ust colour – recommend treatments including BondPro+ and Dualsenses Serums, which will help improve hair condition instantly.

Be positive when communicating with clients; it will help them feel safe. And now is also the time to go that extra mile. You can target lost clients and use your salon windows to attract new ones and make people aware that you’re back! A good experience will also inspire world of mouth, too. Take the time to connect with them and deliver a great experience. Another good way to increase your cash ow is retail so why not include products as part of the service?

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT KAO SALON DIVISION, AND REQUEST A COPY OF ITS SALON RECOVERY GUIDE? CALL 03301 239 530 OR EMAIL KAOSALONDIVISIONUK@KAO.COM #STRONGERTOGETHER CREATIVE HEAD

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24/06/2020 12:46

QUICK QUICK GLOW

WITH REDUCED CAPACITY FROM SOCIAL DISTANCING BUT INCREASED DEMAND, YOU NEED EXPRESS SERVICES THAT OPTIMISE YOUR TIME TO ENSURE YOU DELIGHT AS MANY CLIENTS AS POSSIBLE. WHAT’S OUT THERE TO QUICKLY REBUILD YOUR BUSINESS?

Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Color 10 develops in just 10 minutes – perfect for postlockdown express services. schwarzkopfpro.com

Personalised to each client, Fusio-Dose from rastase immediately transforms hair at the backwash for lasting results. kerastase.co.uk

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Blondes are begging to be brighter, to be rid of brass and to banish any roots – londor ches from Wella Professionals are your BFF. uk.wellastore.com

Whatever colour correction you’re faced with, you can be conﬁdent with a irel from r al Professionnel’s 100+ shade portfolio. And don’t forget Smartbond for an instant boost. lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

We know you’re facing a tonne of colour corrections, so ensure you have plenty of Zalon Colour Remover from Hair Tools ready to strip away any box dye remainders. hairtools.co.uk

Offer a beautiful (and speedy) boost to colour and shine with a glossing of Elumen from Goldwell, for a fast and fabulous tone. goldwell.com

CREATIVE HEAD

15/06/2020 16:43

When you need a swift lift, try Fudge Professional Clean Blonde Speed+, a pioneering violet luxe lightener that is the brand’s most conditioning bleach yet. It’s tingle- and fume-free too!

You’ve got some dark roots to deal with and time’s ticking. You need TIGI Copyright Colour’s True Light White for brilliant lightening power while respecting the hair’s health.

An in-salon essence mixed with an AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT mask will bring clients’ hair back to life while delivering a sensorial experience.

Use The Demi from Paul Mitchell rofessional air are for a ﬁve minute service or process up to 20 minutes on dry or towel-dried hair.

fudgeprofessional.com

authenticbeautyconcept.co.uk

tigi.com

With 46 shades, Color Wear from ALFAPARF Milano is perfect for toning and glossing, giving you a long-lasting result to keep clients’ hair shiny with reduced colour fade. alfaparfmilano.com

JOICO is helping salons prepare clients with a new consultation guide, which can be used for both virtual and in-salon consultations. “It makes it easier to get all the information out of clients without having to have those ‘awkward moments’,” admits Paul Watts, founder of Paul Watts Hair.

salon-success.co.uk

Part of the revamped ASP INFINITI permanent colour range, b:Red delivers intense vibrant results on natural and coloured hair with no need to prelighten. So that’s time saved right there! asphair.com

GINA CONWAY GINA CONWAY AVEDA LIFESTYLE SALONS & SPAS “In June we launched Customized Colour Care Kits, take-away kits sold from the salon for clients to use at home, and we’re doing salon consultations just for tints. We are a huge colour salon so our waiting list was mainly colour, but if we could manage some of the regrowth with the kits, then we could focus on blondes ﬁrst. I feared there would be a large amount of colour correction, so by offering our own colour and instructions we’ve nipped that in the bud. Otherwise some people will have just chosen a product from the supermarket with no real clue if it was suitable or how to apply it. We’ve also launched a new service called Shadow Root, which is a simple application that can stretch the natural roots over the regrowth and then blend into the blonde so that it looks more like a balayage. This will ease the rush for tints. Our new menus include Tint and Depart, meaning that local guests can go home after tinting to shampoo their own hair. Many salons are doing this with great success in Australia. We include a goodie bag with two towels, gloves, travel-sized Aveda Color Conserve shampoo and conditioner and an Aveda tea bag. We’ve launched an express colour menu for reduced colour services such as Aveda Demi+, which processes in fewer than 30 minutes for those clients who don’t need 100 per cent grey coverage. We’re encouraging all our clients to pre-pay so that we can be cashless and we’ve launched a new app where they can pay from their own phones. We’ve also moved from one checkout to mobile checkouts for ease and to reduce congestion in the retail area.” 2019

CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2020 12:07

Treatwell

VIRTUAL REALITY TECHNOLOGY HAS BEEN LIKE ROCKET FUEL, POWERING SALONS TO STAY IN TOUCH AND TO PLAN FOR THE FUTURE. HERE’S HOW THOSE SYSTEMS ARE HELPING POST-LOCKDOWN

From Zoom staff meetings to FaceTime client consultations, technology has powered hairdressing businesses during lockdown. And the industry will use digital tools more than ever, now that it’s been illustrated just how valuable they are. Salon software brands can also share what the new normal looks like when it comes to booking hair specifically thanks to data from European countries that have reopened ahead of the UK. Treatwell shared details of a landscape where more is moving online. Across Europe, there is an increase in online bookings from customers who used to book via phone or walk-in. Treatwell is now seeing fewer peak-hour bookings, with morning demand especially am increasing significantly. And because customers are eager to get services, they’re happy to pay more, so there has been a decrease in usage of discounts. And as you’ve been closed for months with little (if any) income, Phorest Salon Software has developed a revenue calculator to help you work out just what you need to regain revenue. It’s one of a wealth of new back-to-work tools from the company, as well as Covid-19 banners for online booking, GDPR-compliant contract tracing and social distancing friendly check in notifications.

A cut for Europe

TREATWELL RECEIVED A RECORD NUMBER OF BOOKINGS AS HAIR SALONS AND BARBERS REOPENED ACROSS EUROPE Germany – When news broke in April about reopening on 4 May, bookings increased by more than 2,000 per cent. A men’s cut was the first booking made five minutes after the announcement. The Netherlands – bookings were up more than 4,500 per cent the day after reopenings were announced. France – Treatwell saw a more than 3,100 per cent boost in bookings after the decision hair businesses could reopen from ay. The first customer had a am haircut and beard trim in a salon that had e tended its opening hours to am to pm.

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ROB CZLAPKA RCNQ We signed up with Timely at the start of the year as we needed a booking system that was online based, could integrate with other apps like Mailchimp and had a simple interface for clients to use that didn’t look dated. When the Covid-19 crisis started it could have been overwhelming having to ensure you were able to ‘pause’ after having the entire business on fast forward. But Timely set up a little pop-up checklist that was genius! I followed it and within 30 minutes everything was sorted. With the Timely Consult app there’s a Covid-19 form to help us stay safe, and the brand has a new partnership with Laybuy, meaning that clients can visit the salon and pay for their service over six weeks. The salon receives the full appointment value at the point of sale and Laybuy deals with the rest. It was ideal for us as we know that people s ﬁnances are up in the air. There s also a waiting list feature that we posted on Instagram – we had sign ups in hours on top of the clients we already had rebooked. It was such a relief when you’ve been uncertain of what the future holds.

CREATIVE HEAD

24/06/2020 12:45

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

BACK TO BUSINESS SALONS HAVE RE-OPENED. WHAT LIES AHEAD? LISTEN IN TO WHAT FUDGE PROFESSIONAL GLOBAL AMBASSADORS JONATHAN ANDREW AND TRACY HAYES HAVE TO SAY… Hey, Tracy! Long time, no see! It was called lockdown, Jonathan! So how was it for you? Bitter-sweet. It was difficult dealing with all the anxiety and negativity, but I loved the time at home with my family and I taught myself new skills to push my creativity – photography and video-making, mainly. Awesome!

Jonathan Andrew and daughter Lily

“I’ve been teaching myself photography so I can push my creative boundaries when I’m back at work. These are some of my favourite shots I’ve taken”

And wasn’t it great to see hairdressing making all those headlines – to feel like our profession was finally being valued? It was clear people really missed their trip to the salon – it’s all everyone talked about. And it wasn’t just about how we can make clients look, it was about how we make them feel. Waking up to those roots every morning – not an uplifting start to the day. When we’re past fixing crazy haircuts and botched box dye jobs, it’s going to be so exciting having the opportunity to do something new with clients’ hair. Whether that’s allowing them to experiment more with their new length, or helping them grow out that bad clipper job and planning out nine new looks between now and Christmas!

Tracy Hayes “I created these looks for a tutorial during lockdown. Both were created using exactly the same technique – but what a difference the two colour palettes make!”

Agreed. It’s such a great opportunity to talk about changing colour, too. Everyone’s been living by the rules for so long, this is a time to cut loose and have some fun! Let’s put some blonde through those dark roots, let’s add a section of hot pink that’s only visible when the client ties her hair up… I think the timescales of how we work will be different too. Before, it was all about speed, now we’ll be able to give 100 per cent to each client… I’m really looking forward to the creative journey ahead. Definitely! I loved those rainbow pictures kids painted in support of the NHS. What brilliant inspiration to put new colour into your hair! This will be perfect for younger clients whose previous fun colours will be all washed out by now… There’s no need to feel daunted. Our clients come to us for a reason – and it’s something that simply cannot be replicated by switching to another salon. I’ve known lots of my clients for 10 years or more. The bond I have with them is even stronger now that lockdown has taught us to appreciate each other more. We need to keep those appointments special – a treat for our clients, and for us too. I just can’t wait to get working again and to get back to chatting. I want banter! I want trivia! I can’t wait to talk about nice things again!

CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2020 12:11

RECRUITMENT

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s push for change

VISITING THE HAIRDRESSER WAS ONE OF THE TOP THREE THINGS THE PUBLIC WANTED TO DO ONCE LOCKDOWN WAS LIFTED. WILL THAT TRANSLATE INTO MORE PEOPLE WANTING TO JOIN THE PROFESSION IN FUTURE? 58

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15/06/2020 16:35

The nation’s 41,000 salons were closed, but all the talk during lockdown was about hairdressing. After more than three months of no cutting, no colouring and no blowdrying, everyone realised that while they could (just about) handle having grey roots, going without a trip to the hairdresser was generally bad for morale. Having been overlooked and undervalued for decades, all of a sudden hairdressing was making headlines for all the right reasons. But what happens now? Will all that yearning for “the chatter of the salon” (Rhys Thomas, The Guardian), “the warm glow on your neck after a cut” (Adam Parsons, Sky News), and “how a regular visit makes us feel” (Shane Watson, The Daily Telegraph), translate into renewed enthusiasm for a career in hairdressing? As Allison Hargreaves, education operations, events and marketing manager at Coty Professional, puts it: “Hopefully, there will be many parents wishing they had a hairdresser in the family who will now encourage their children to look into it as a viable career.” Certainly, hairdressing needs that boost: since 2015 there’s been a steady decline in the total number of people working in hair (down to 250,000, according to 2019 NHBF statistics), and more worryingly a sharp fall in the number of apprenticeship starts in England – from 11,500 in 2017/2018 to just 9,932 in 2018/2019. So what’s been behind the lack of interest in hairdressing as a career? Misconceptions about the profession abound – 51 per cent of people think hairdressing is low skilled, and 32 per cent that it oﬀers little in the way of career progression, according to a poll earlier this year by L’Oréal Professional Products Division (LPPD). And of course, there’s that infamous blind spot school careers advisers seem to have for the hair industry – in the LPPD poll 75 per cent of respondents said they didn’t learn about hairdressing as a career option in school. And let’s hold that thought about low skills for a moment… On 1 January 2021 the Government’s Immigration Bill is set to replace free movement between the UK and with European Economic Area states with a new points-based system for workers coming to the UK. Hairdressers have been deemed lower skilled by the Home ce, meaning the Bill will almost certainly spell an end to the ﬂow of foreign hairdressers into the UK market that some London

WHY THE NEW IMMIGRATION BILL AFFECTS UK HAIRDRESSING

The Immigration and Social Security Co-ordination (EU Withdrawal) Bill 2020 puts an end to free movement of EU citizens to the UK, with a new pointsbased immigration system to be introduced in January 2021. ome ecretary riti atel has called it a “firmer fairer and simpler system adding: “This historic piece of legislation gives the UK full control of our immigration system for the first time in decades and the power to determine who comes to this country. Potential incomers need to have at least 70 points before they can enter the country to work with a confirmed ob offer and the ability to speak nglish a requirement. Points are also awarded for things such as earning at least working a “skilled ob working in a profession that the has a shortage of, and having a relevant PhD. There isn t actually a definition of what the government classes as a “lower skilled worker. owever since the points system is based on salary lower paid obs fall into the low skill category. This puts hairdressing at risk with average salaries falling below the £25,600 threshold. The new system will apply to anyone coming from any country in the world from January 2021. Previously, EU citizens didn’t need a visa to work in the UK under European law.

REQUIRED

POINTS

Offer of job by approved sponsor

Yes

Job at appropriate skill level

Yes

Speaks English at the required level

Yes

Salary of £20,480 (minimum) to £23,099

Salary of £23,040 to £25,599

Salary of £25,600 or above

Job in shortage occupation

PhD in subject relevant to job

Relevant PhD in STEM subject (Science, Technology, Engineering, Maths)

London and South East-based Headmasters group claims the Immigration ill will impact heavily on its business. ays chief e ecutive a u aymond “Since the announcement of Brexit we’ve faced an active decline in the numbers of candidates applying from Europe. About 10 per cent of our workforce is from the EU and we are not fully staffed currently as there is not enough skilled hair labour in the UK. It means we cannot open new salons or staff existing salons effectively, which has a direct impact on our bottom line. The way the Immigration ill is udged discriminates against hairdressers and hairdressing businesses. The basic wage is lower than the £25,600 threshold for skilled labour; however, most hairdressers take home more than that as it’s a commission-based industry. Please take into consideration the average wage, rather than the basic. Also, to say this is lower skilled work SALON OWNERS – HAVE is insulting. Cutting and colouring takes years of specialist YOUR SAY. Head to training. Let’s look to other countries who successfully tiveheadmag.com and crea import labour. For example, in Canada they have express plete our Recruitment com entry for hairdressers as the country has a national and Immigration survey. shortage of them. We need a similar dispensation here.

You can help bring about change!

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#Recruitment salons and bigger national salon chains rely on. “When we asked salons: ‘what can we do to help with this recruitment challenge?’ They shared two things,” says Beatrice Dautzenberg, managing director of LPPD. “First, working at grass roots level and helping to accelerate the number of people joining the industry. Second, continuing to be able to recruit as they do today from other countries, including those in Europe. The current Immigration Bill would have a significant impact on salons having access to talent – and people and talent is what makes this industry thrive and grow.” LPPD is currently campaigning at government level to reclassify hairdressing as high-skilled, with Dautzenberg listing “the years of learning and commitment, complicated colour chemistry, cutting precision and articulate aptitude, not to mention the emotional intelligence, communication and excellence in customer care and wellbeing”. She can also point to the recent industry overhaul of its education programmes, bringing hairdressing training in line with academic qualifications. For example, the new Trailblazer Level 2 apprenticeship is transforming how the industry trains and tests its new recruits, resulting in a qualification equivalent to GCSEs at grades 9 to 4 (A* to C). And from 2023, students aged 16 to 18 will be able to study a T-Level in hair, beauty and aesthetics, equivalent to three A-Levels. Industry efforts need to re-double now to ensure hairdressing truly leverages that moment in the lockdown spotlight. Forge close working relationships with external partners such as local schools and colleges. Put your efforts into inspiring your clients – your potential new recruits’ parents – that this is an amazing career; 16-year-olds do very little without their parents’ approval so let them know your salon will give their children a future. Make sure your clients know everything you do with your apprentices. Be loud on social media about their training, the shows and events you take them to. That way, when someone hears of a young person who wants to enter the industry, everyone will tell them they must come to learn from you. With perfect timing (if we do say so ourselves), Creative HEAD has just launched The Industry (the-industry.co.uk), a new digital hub showcasing everything young people (and their parents) need to know about a career in hairdressing, from how and where to train, through to the incredible opportunities that wait them once they’re qualified. There’s also a 50-minute documentary following the lives of seven different hair professionals – including Anthony Turner, Anna Cofone and Ky Wilson – made not only to smash stigmas but also to inform, surprise and inspire a wider audience. Let’s hope that hairdressing’s new elevated status continues after lockdown: that the media recognises hair professionals for the trained experts they are and that schools and careers advisers – and parents – stop regarding a career in hairdressing as unattractive. The opportunities are endless in this hugely supportive, flexible, diverse and inclusive industry, and it’s our duty to inform and inspire the public about them.

“Without apprentices, there is no development, no support network, no growth and no culture”

Sarah Seaman

Academy principal, Westrow House Academy, Yorkshire “We’ve always seen apprentices as the future for our business and the industry at large. Without apprentices, there is no development, no support network, no growth and no culture. “We are constantly recruiting apprentices. Alongside marketing our academy to salons in the local area, we make sure we have a presence at the Leeds City Apprenticeship Fair, obtaining contact information for any students interested in a career in hairdressing. “We also contact all our afﬁliated salons to see if they are looking to recruit a new apprentice for the upcoming summer/winter periods, and from this a list of salon vacancies is collated, ready to share with prospective students. “We hold an open day once a year, which we advertise by social media and through contact with school career leads, who share the information among their Year 11 and 12 students. Prospective students have the chance to look around and talk to staff and students, and we also provide them with the list of vacancies in salons that are well suited to them.”

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“A few years ago it was very worrying”

Melenie Tudor

owner of En Route Hair & Beauty, West Yorkshire “About five years ago I realised that trying to recruit young team members was becoming more and more difficult. The government had introduced a policy that required all school leavers to attain a certain level in Maths and English, and I discovered that many pupils thought they had stay on in a school environment to achieve this. At one local school not one pupil had left to go onto an apprenticeship that year. I really felt I needed to do something about it. “I approached various secondary schools in my area to ask them if my team and I could talk to some of their pupils about hairdressing apprenticeships. It took me quite a while to get a response, but eventually I was invited to speak to some Year 10 students and as a result my name got passed on to Leeds Enterprise Partnership and I was assigned as an enterprise adviser to a school in Wakefield. It involves me going into the school every term, and recently I’ve been able to start pushing hairdressing. The last workshop I did saw 20 students turn up. We chatted about hairdressing as a career, the lifestyle, the opportunities. Then we had a practical session, which they loved. “When I speak to training providers they do say things are improving and they are getting more applicants now. But a few years ago it was very worrying.”

“College students think they can work in a salon, be mobile or work on cruise ships. That’s it! Three things!”

Richard Phillipart

owner of The Boutique Atelier, Cheshire “Education and inspiration are things all hairdressers should be exposed to, not just us lucky lot in great salons. Because of this I spend a few days each year at my local college giving talks to new students, teaching older students and hopefully inspiring them with what someone who once went to their college has achieved – and what they can too. “The students in college are simply not aware of everything hairdressing can offer. They tend to think they can work in a salon, be mobile or work on cruise ships. That’s it! Three things! So I talk to them about working on red carpets, photoshoots and fashion shows, as well as all the opportunities to travel the world. I want to inspire them to be better, to aim higher. “There’s a lot more that the colleges can do to engage with young people and draw them into a career in hair – such as taking students to trade shows. But also brands should connect more with colleges – send teams in to teach new techniques and so on. Brands need to wake up to the fact these college students are a huge part of their future custom and they can get in early and blow their minds.”

“We have so many students with the potential to become great stylists”

Julie Allen

curriculum leader in hair and beauty, Barnsley College “Barnsley College fosters great connections with salons in the area, based on a commitment to provide suitable apprentices to work in those salons, and an open dialogue between the apprentice team and the salon. We invite salons to college open days to see what we can offer their apprentices, and we’ve had several special events with [Barnsley College-trained] Andrew Barton, where salons have had a great experience. “The salons we work with can see that we have so many students with the potential to become great stylists and they can choose someone suitable to enhance their business. Communication is vital between the salon and the apprentice team and the success of apprentices within the salons. “I thoroughly recommend that salon owners attend an open day at their local college to speak to tutors about what they are looking for in an apprentice. Taking on students to do work experience is also a good way to see the potential they have and if they would be a suitable apprentice. It also helps the student to decide if they prefer full time education as opposed to working in the salon and doing one day a week in college.”

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24/06/2020 14:18

e l t t i Al

r e g lon

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CREATIVE HEAD

15/06/2020 16:33

Clar k otography: Jack Hair : Callum M

ayden Cassidy, cDonald and H

ë Moore. Ph itch. Make-up: Zo Ruffians Shored CREATIVE HEAD

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BACK IN THEIR SHOPS, BARBERS FACE CHANGES TO THE WAY THEY WORK, THE SERVICES THEY CAN OFFER AND THE IMPACT OF LOCKDOWN ON THE ATTITUDE TO MEN’S HAIR NOW. MR Q INVESTIGATES… THERE’S CERTAINLY A lockdown look being sported by plenty of guys around the UK (heavier beard? Check! Longer lengths? Check!), but what will the long-term impact of this be on men’s hair trends and barbering in general? Which services do barbers need to reassess now that clients are back in the chair? “Barber shops are going to have one of the toughest times adapting after the lockdown, because of the way that they are used to working,” admits Fudge Professional ambassador Jonathan Andrew, pointing to busy shops full of customers simply walking in and waiting for their cut – the buzzy vibe that many barber shops thrive on and clients love. “This may mean a few more rules to abide by, and hopefully won’t have a detrimental effect to the shop in general. But I think the way we have always worked will be quite different for a while.” Following UK government guidelines for England and with social distancing in place, many have axed the walk-in-and-wait culture for hygiene and safety reasons. And those guidelines also specify that you can only cut/treat hair on the head, which affects the services you can offer. “It could be a while before we can carry out full beard services,” adds Denis Robinson at Ruffians. “It makes sense, even as we reopen and come out of lockdown, that barbers aren’t working up close. Haircuts can be carried out wearing visors and with consideration, but working around the face in such a close and intimate manner as shaving won’t be an option for a while yet.” Mark Maciver, AKA Slidercuts, understands that people are going to be more conscious about hygiene and safety. “They are such close-knit spaces, barbers are using their tools on one client and then another. There will be a worry about it,” he admits. He shares a simple yet effective method to reassure clients about the cleanliness of clippers being used: “We all know you’re meant to clean your clippers after every client, but I’ve seen plenty of barbers who don’t. I always clean my clippers before every hair cut, because that way the client sees it. If you do it afterwards, they have to take your word for it. But I always do it while they’re in the chair.” Someone who’s role is to assess and interpret the changing landscape of men’s hair trends is John Vial, co-founder of Salon Sloane and a regular backstage at London Fashion Week Men’s, where most recently the Revlon Professional global influencer styled the Charles Jeffrey Loverboy A/W20 show. Due to social media, trends are not what they once were – everything moves so quickly – so part of John’s job is to identify gaps in the market and where he sees ‘movements’ rather than trends happening. He identified two types of men during lockdown: one happy to turn to his partner and say ‘let’s try cutting it. If it doesn’t work, I’ll just clipper it off’. The other, more conscious of his appearance, wouldn’t let anyone but a barber cut his hair. John explains: “He’ll have lots of products and, in that period, he’s gone through the pain of growing it and he’s not going to go back to the fade. So organically I think we’re going to see a big shift in a large percentage of men’s hair. It’s not been in vogue for men to have long hair since the ’90s, and we are definitely moving towards that.” Plenty of male celebrities took to Instagram to share their home-based shearings which, Hayden Cassidy, a rising barber talent with a chair at Ruffians, admits had an impact, influencing about 10 per cent of her clients to give themselves a buzz cut. “At least that will grow back evenly,” she smiles. She used her social media to share styling tips and product recommendations to help clients cope with their shut-in length. “A lot of guys come in with the same haircut for 10 years and when you ask them if they’ve though about changing, 50 per cent will say ‘yes, I’d love to change I just don’t know what to do’. You build up this trust with clients, so I used that time to say to experiment, to give them some help.” 2019 Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist and founder of Fowler35, Darren Fowler, agrees that the lockdown presented the opportunity for some to test out something new. “The grow-out period people can’t usually go through because they’re at work and they need to look sharp… they didn’t have that and they are actually trying something different,” he explains. “Guys’ hair tends to grow sideways or out from those corners, and they’ve already gone through that now so there will be room for manoeuvre. But I guarantee there will be those who can’t wait to get that fade back in!” 63

03/07/2020 15:08

R OS C OE

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15/06/2020 16:30

C LA UD I A

ZACH

THE BRIGHTON CONTINGENT Shot in March during the rising anxiety of the Covid-19 pandemic and just days before UK lockdown, Simon Webster Hair captured the last blow-out before this group of musicians, artists and agitators went their separate ways. This collection was inspired by The Bromley Contingent: a crew of creative teens that included Billy Idol, Siouxsie Sioux and Soo Catwoman who became the entourage that followed the Sex Pistols in the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;70s and helped to popularise the fashion of the UK punk movement. They customised their clothes, ripping up and remaking, crafting a beautiful/ugly aesthetic that dominated the era. Times of unrest and upheaval resonate through art, music and fashion. They provoke reinvention and innovation, defiance and energy, creativity and change. This is The Brighton Contingentâ&#x20AC;Ś

Photography by Chris Bulezuik CREATIVE HEAD

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LOUiE

KID ZERO

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CREATIVE HEAD

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MAKE-UP Xoë Kingsley. STYLING models’ own

HAIR Simon Webster Hair Art Team. CONCEPT AND LEAD Simon Webster.

KI D D O

FAYE

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The Bright Forever

PACKED WITH COMMERCIAL, WEARABLE LOOKS THAT CLIENTS WILL CRAVE, THIS NEW COLLECTION FROM BIRMINGHAMâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S HAZEL & HAYDN PLAYS WITH COLOUR, TEXTURE AND FINISH TO HELP LIFT THOSE LOCKDOWN BLUES PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARAZI CREATIVE HEAD

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CREATIVE HEAD

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CREATIVE HEAD

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CREATIVE HEAD

15/06/2020 16:32

HAIR Hazel & Haydn Art Team. MAKE-UP Meg Lindow. STYLING ZoÃ« Kozlik SEE MORE of this shoot online at creativeheadmag.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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Z ooming with my daughter Pearl and the Russell Eaton Salons tea m

Ha d the BES T 40t h soci al dist ancing birt hda y!

With my brillia nt wife Libby on my birthd ay

In the

Installing safety screens ready for reopeni ng

frame Robert Eaton (@robertjeaton), Wella Professionals UK & Ireland technical director and creative director of Russell Eaton Salons, snaps away

A virtual consult ation with a client as her husban d attempts to help... think my job’s safe though!

Proud to support @thein dustrys quad. Let’s get more young people excited about hairdre ssing! 74

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Promot ing virtual consult ations ahead of reopeni ng

We’re excited early for Christmas…

Pearl’s rainbow to support the NHS

Going the distance at Russell Eaton Salons CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2020 12:19

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08/06/2020 15:55 12/11/19 09:46