Creative HEAD July/August 2018 by Alfol Publishing

£4.50 JULY/AUGUST 2018

In print•online•everywhere!

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208mm

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“This is the one we have been waiting for, for so many years. My two girls cracked it! We are so proud to have won this most prestigious award” TREVOR SORBIE MBE

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Editor’s letter

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

her team took a For this issue of Creative HEAD , editor Amanda and ressers, to take over. step back and invited us, the NEW generation of haird Foolish? Well... we’ll see! Brave? Most definitely, as this is an industry first. such a big part of this issue. But seriously, the five of us feel very privileged to be the big issues we feel are impacting Across its pages , we’ll be taking charge and discussing to answer for), putting questions to a hair our generation of stylists (social media has A LOT nce from business guru Ken West (legend), hero (OMG - Angelo Seminara!), getting career guida our own curated and edited pages . and trying to convey who we are to you lovely lot with we enjoyed working on them , and we’ll cross We hope you enjoy reading our efforts as much as lain about the young apprentices and stylists our fingers that this illustrates that while many comp onate, creative and hard-working coming into hairdressing today, we are actually a passi exist for previous generations . bunch who are dealing with challenges that just didn’t career to get stuck into... We also want to prove just why hairdressing is the best See you on the other side!

The Generation Z Team x The new editors of Creative HEAD (Quick! Someone lock Amanda in the beauty cupboard, we fancy doing this again next issue!)

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July/August

WHAT’S INSIDE 88

FASHION

GENERATION Z

Five up-and-coming stylists discuss the difficulties and delights of starting out

Casey Coleman and Jodie Austen explore avant-garde and editorial

ON THE COVER Hair by Percy & Reed at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. Photography by Ambra Vernuccio

FREE INS IDE

MISTER QUAR TER

SCENE

Revlon Professional Style Masters International Final hits Barcelona and Coterie: In Session returns to London

EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

DEPUTY EDITOR

CONTRIBUTOR

ALISON ROWLEY

ART DIRECTOR

ADVERTISING

JENNY LE

DIGITAL DESIGNER

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

JOANNA ANDERSEN

AMANDA NOTTAGE BETH DAVIE

NICK JABBAL EVA VESTMANN

ANNA SAMSON DEBORAH MURTHA LAURA TUCKER DAVID HAMMOND

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

ADAM WOOD

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Creative HEAD is printed on paper certiﬁed as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press

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25/06/2018 15:43

The Dyson Supersonic Professional edition. Re-engineered for you.

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A healthy return Blasting air at high temperatures towards hair is going to have an impact – that’s just a fact. You spray and smooth heat protectors over strands to shield as best you can, but the regular use of heated styling tools is going to mean heat-damaged hair. And that’s before any accidental mishaps, like hair being sucked into the filter. But what if your hair dryer, the piece of styling kit you rely on most, could actually help keep hair strong and healthy? That has to be something your client would love, right? The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition has been engineered to dry hair quickly while also minimising damage. It’s time for a science lesson... When hair is washed or wet, the hair strands absorb water and swell, increasing in diameter by up to 16 per cent. As this happens, the outer cuticle layer becomes slightly rougher, making it more susceptible to damage and breakage. To keep this at a minimum, it’s vital that hair is dried quickly yet gently, using the right combination of heat and air flow. Hair regains its dry strength and the cuticle can return to its normal shape. The engineers at Dyson examined healthy and damaged hair using electron microscopes and light chambers to understand how light reflects from the hair. Their research showed that with extreme heat, the structures within the hair become damaged. The result? Weaker hair that’s less shiny as light scatters off the hair rather than reflecting evenly. That’s why they created Intelligent Heat Control. While some hair dryers can reach very high temperatures and cause extreme heat damage to hair, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition has a glass bead thermistor that measures the temperature 20 times a second. Yes, 20. The microprocessor intelligently controls the patented double-stacked heating element, avoiding extreme heat. It also uses Dyson’s patented Air Multiplier technology. Sounds impressive, and it is – the volume of the air drawn into the motor is amplified by three, producing a high pressure, high velocity jet of air. That focused jet is angled at 20° to deliver controlled, precise drying and styling. For super-shiny hair, the Supersonic doesn’t work alone. It has three, super-strong magnetic attachments that control the air flow and help you keep frizz and flyaways at bay. You’ll love the re-engineered Dyson Professional concentrator with a wider and thinner nozzle, while the Smoothing Nozzle quickly removes excess water and dries hair smooth with a gentle touch. And with texture so on-trend right now, the Dyson Diffuser will be a firm favourite. Simulating natural drying, it helps to reduce frizz and deliver gorgeously defined curls. Science class dismissed. Now, choose your nozzle and get styling...

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Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week S/S18. Models styled using the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition

With the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition, you’ve got styling stealth to keep hair in its best health. Discover how...

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We’re feeling Supersonic You spoke, they listened. Say hello to the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition, re-engineered and ready for your salon

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“This little beauty packs such a punch. A big, big plus for me is the increased magnet strength – it’s twice as strong as before” Dylan Bradshaw Dylan Bradshaw, Dublin Most Wanted Exceptional Stylist winner 2016 and 2017 Dyson ambassador

“It’s a must-have for all professional stylists. The 3.3 metre cable gives me so much more mobility. Trust me. You need it in your kit” Larry King Larry King Salon, London Dyson ambassador

*tested against 20 bestselling hair dryers as at February 2017

You have exacting standards. As a professional hair stylist, your tools need to be perfect, extensions of your hands to enable you to craft, to thrill. With your client, perfection is an obsession – in your salon, backstage, on shoots. That’s something you have in common with a Dyson engineer… More than two years ago, teams of Dyson engineers worked with renowned hair stylists to develop a bespoke-designed hair dryer for professionals. As with any piece of technology, Dyson’s engineers are never satisfied. You spoke; they listened. Those teams absorbed all the feedback stylists had from the salon front line, and they set themselves a new task – making the Supersonic truly superb for the demands of everyday salon use. This is a premium hair dryer re-engineered for your needs, day in and day out. You’ll find an improved filter, built to handle all the super-hold hairspray your team can mist. And what makes this extra clever is that it’s magnetic, removable and washable (you even get a tailored cleaning brush to help you do the job – and your dryer has a little light to prompt you when it needs a clean). Magnetic attachments are now even stronger, so you won’t knock them off when blow-styling hair at 60mph. You also get a wider and thinner nozzle that focuses air flow for laser-focused precision styling and, with cool grip edges, you won’t burn your fingers either. Flexibility? Naturally – with an even longer cable (it’s now 3.3 metres) you can manoeuvre yourself around your client with ease. This is all on top of the fabulous fundamentals – inside each Dyson Supersonic is powerful Dyson digital motor V9 that’s six-times faster than other hair dryer motors,* and hidden in the handle for better balance. Fused with its clever Air Multiplier technology, the Supersonic produces a high-velocity jet of controlled air. Buckle up – this is faster drying combined with precision styling. But there’s no shouting over the din of your dryer – those Dyson engineers think of everything. Acoustically tuned and boasting a Quiet Mark, you can actually enjoy a conversation with your client and your team won’t be battling against a relentless wall of noise every hour of their working day. Oh, and let’s be totally honest here, it also looks really cool. Get the #dysonprohair hashtag ready, because you’ll want to share. Ultimately, we know you pride yourself on offering exceptional client experiences every time someone is in your chair. Let Dyson help you deliver exactly that…

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Stand up guys Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to keep all your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional editions in one place with the magnetic presentation stand. And just think what an impact it will have on clients when they see your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional editions all lined up. No wonder Larry King has one at each work station at his salon...

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Ready for take-off The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is the destination; behind it, there’s an incredible journey… Most hair dryers are, in the eyes of leading engineers, dumb things – noisy, heavy, non-ergonomic and delivering heat damage to hair. The team at Dyson, squirrelled away in its labs in the Cotswolds, were convinced there was a better, more intelligent way. And that way takes a lot of work – £56m was spent on building hair science labs and conducting painstaking research before a single hair dryer was sold. Over four years, 103 Dyson engineers, including scientists and stylists, looked at everything from air flow dynamics to hair’s cellular structure, completing tests using nearly 1,625km of hair. A total of £75m has been spent to craft and then reengineer the Dyson Supersonic and the Professional edition. Advanced scanning electron microscopes let Dyson scientists look at single strands of human hair in high definition after testing. Why? To understand the structure of hair and which elements cause splits, holes and other damage. Tensile tests measures the strength and elasticity of each hair strand before and after drying and styling, by stretching the strand until it breaks. Healthy hair remains strong and elastic while damaged hair is easier to break. Thermal cameras allow Dyson engineers to understand the temperature of the airflow coming out of the machine, ensuring it’s consistent throughout, even when pushed close to your client’s head or to a brush. The Real Imaging Test Algorithm machine – known as RITA by the Dyson techs – provides a range of image settings specifically designed to highlight key hair stress characteristics and features, such as strand alignment, flyaways and frizz. Particle Image Velocimetry allowed Dyson engineers to measure the speed of the jet and visualise its shape. Get a deeper understanding of the jet structure and turbulence, and you can optimise the airflow. Aero-acoustic engineers listened to the sound of the Supersonic. By refining the design, those engineers have created a tone that we humans can’t even hear. It took 582 prototypes until those Dyson perfectionists were satisfied. The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is number 583. Patience is a virtue...

“No gimmicks; this had to perform. The Supersonic was the most difficult project we’ve worked on – I thought this machine wasn’t going to make it at least eight times – but our technology level increases all the time. We’ve reinvented everything you’re used to seeing with a hair dryer” Stephen Courtney Concept director, Dyson

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Please take care of this hair (dryer) The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is a precisely-engineered machine that’s premium perfection. Please add a little TLC… Some stylists are obsessive when it comes to maintaining their kit bags. Everything has its place; some items have a history, being by your side at seminal moments. There are regular rituals to be observed to ensure prime performance from your most investment-heavy pieces. Just as you painstakingly oil your beloved scissors, and cleanse the hair and dust from your hard-bristled brushes, you can now add another little ritual to ensure your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition, an investment in itself, performs at its very best in the toughest of conditions – from broom cupboard-sized rooms backstage at Fashion Week to the busiest of Saturdays in a high street salon. We all need a moment of calm, and maintenance of your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition can provide you with a little retreat, a chance to think. This hair dryer is highly-tuned and its technology must be kept free from dust and the residue from the dozens of products used everyday. Invest in a Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition and in the box you’ll find everything you need; alongside those snappy magnetic attachments, you’ll see a spare filter cage, a C-shaped filter cleaning brush, a filter cage wrap and details on how best to tend to your new machine. A flashing white light even tells you when it needs a freshen-up if you forget. Once a week, take a moment to clean your filter. It snaps off in a second, and a little shower under a warm tap works wonders. When using that clever brush, slide it over the filter cage and rotate to dislodge any sticky residue or pesky hair clippings. Once clean, pop the cage back on and it’s ready to start all over again.

Perfect your filter know-how – see the video at dyson.co.uk/ professionalhaircare

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Endorsed by stylists Dyson wanted professional stylists to be frank. “Don’t be nice or we’ll never improve,” said the engineers. Dozens of hairdressers around the globe told them exactly what they thought… and Dyson took those comments on board, and re-engineered the Supersonic to deliver for you, every day

“It’s acoustically tuned so you have to be careful what you say now, because everyone can hear you! It’s so well balanced you can finally break up with your chiropractor. And we know hair stylists never clean their filters. Now we have no excuses. It’s removable and magnetic” Jen Atkin Celebrity stylist Dyson ambassador

“My clients deserve the best so it’s important we set the standards, so they know we’re giving proper thought to the hair they wear every day. Take a Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition for two weeks, and you’ll be converted” Dylan Bradshaw Dylan Bradshaw, Dublin Most Wanted Exceptional Stylist winner 2016 and 2017 Dyson ambassador

“Dyson engineers have made subtle improvements to what is already an incredible machine, making it the perfect tool for a professional stylist. Hair health is really important to me and I love knowing that I can trust it to protect my clients’ natural shine. It never leaves my side!” Larry King Larry King Salon, London Dyson ambassador

The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is available now. Are you ready to go Supersonic? For an exclusive stylist price (once you’ve been confirmed as a stylist) call Dyson on 0800 3457788 (UK) / 01 4757109 (IRL). To find out more, visit dyson.co.uk/professionalhaircare #dysonprohair

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CLUB club

.com/ g a m d a e h e iv t a cre

SPRING SUMMER 2 018 C RE ATIVEHE ADM AG.COM

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FOR JUST

£53.90

£10 YOU’LL GET: • 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and Power Book – delivered to your door • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands

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WIN a Celeb Luxury goody bag, worth £131.75! Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for you, too! Club members have the chance to win a Celeb Luxury goody bag that includes all of the above PLUS Celeb Luxury Gem Lites Colorwash in Ruby, Flawless Diamond and Brown Tahitian Pearl. To be in with a chance of winning, simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD members FOR E will receive an email on 1 July! CREATIVUB HEAD CLRS MEMBE ONLY

*For the ﬁrst 25 new members to sign up between 1 July and 31 July 2018. Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered.

YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N

RU N WAY

26/06/2018 15:59

The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

FIGURES REVEAL SHARP DROP IN APPRENTICESHIPS SINCE THE INTRODUCTION of the Trailblazer apprenticeships last May, there has been a decline in the number of new apprentices across all sectors. Overall, there has been a loss of more than 75,000 on those starting their programmes between August 2017 and January 2018, compared with the same period in the previous year. The data was released by the Department for Education and further revealed that there are currently just under 5,000 learners on hairdressing Trailblazer or framework apprenticeship programmes, compared with more than 8,000 hairdressing apprenticeship starts at NVQ Level 2 in the last academic year. Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, said: “It is difficult to tell whether hairdressing apprenticeships are also down compared with previous years because the drop has coincided with the changeover to the new Trailblazer standards, as well as changes to apprenticeship funding. However, there is a lot of ground to make up if the current number of starts are to reach last year’s levels.” Much has been made of the apprenticeship levy as the main reason for the drop in apprenticeship numbers, but Hellen Ward, chair of the hair professional Trailblazer, believes it’s more complicated than that as the levy only applies to businesses with a payroll bill of £3m or more a year – so very few salons would fall into the group. Keith Mellen, director at Anne Veck, has found the new hairdressing Trailblazer to be much better than the old standard of apprenticeships. He said: “The old framework didn’t work – for years salon owners had been saying it didn’t produce job-ready hairdressers, so it is a vast improvement. The old framework had become unpopular throughout the industry because of the fall in standards at NVQ Level 2.”

MEET THE FINALISTS!

Discover who made the Most Wanted and The It List Grand Final from page 44

Judgement day for Most Wanted and The It List YOU ENTERED in your hundreds, but only a select few made it onto the 2018 Most Wanted and The It List Awards shortlists. Each category was judged by its own panel of experts from inside and outside the industry, which saw a throng of names in hair, fashion, publishing and business– roll up to knuckle down and assess what was without doubt the toughest two days of judging – EVER. These included session stylists Nicola Clarke and Ken O’Rourke, The Daily Telegraph’s Sonia Haria and Vogue’s Jessica Diner, fashion designer Harry Evans and make-up artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis. The Grand Final takes places on 3 September at the Natural History Museum in Kensington. Tickets are sold out, but there’s a waiting list you can join. We hope to see you on the big night! See page 44 or visit creativeheadmag.com for more information

SHE Loves!

"Summer is in full swing, so we need to talk about leave-in conditioners, which are vital if clients are going to the beach as the sun and salt water will dry the hair. Not only does Innoluxe Elixir v2 work as a leave-in conditioner and a primer, it also acts as a top-up to the in-salon treatment"

Tegan Robertson, Not Another Salon, part of the generation z team

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#CHedit MY month

AHEAD

What JuLY/AUGUST has in store for...

SAM WILLIAM HILL CUT & GRIND

MAZELLA & PALMER HOSTS FIRST GOLDWELL EVENING MEMBERS OF THE Goldwell salon business networking club – The HUB – were treated to an up-close-and-personal evening with the Mazella & Palmer International Creative Team. Taking place at Soho Hotel in London, guests were given a unique insight into the inspiration behind the cutting and colouring techniques for some of Mazella & Palmer’s most iconic collections, featuring video concepts and live model demonstrations. The showcase was led by Dove Palmer, who until recently has been travelling the world to teach hairdressers more about Mazella & Palmer’s concept ‘Not just how to cut hair but why’.

CREATIVE HEAD EVENTS: JOIN US!

Every year, the Most Wanted and The It List entries raise the bar to new heights and 2018’s feats of creativity, business nous and pure skill left the judges in awe, we can’t wait for the Grand Final – see page 44 for more! We can barely contain our excitement for Featured Artist Live on 16 July, where super stylist Nick Irwin and photography powerhouse Rankin will be letting you into their world, turn to page 50. Have you heard the news? Big Hair Do is back – mark Wednesday 26 September in your diaries and if you haven’t registered to take part, what are you waiting for? Only 100 salons can do the Do, so head online to register pronto – the opportunity to make A LOT of retail sales, attract new clients and re-engage existing ones awaits, all wrapped up in one mega nationwide party – see pages 48-49!

I’m doing one-to-one classes in fading and I am also attending a Menspire course, as well as cutting hair at bike shows and car shows as it’s something I enjoy doing. I’m also trying to get some friends together for a shoot showcasing a variety of styles, from long to really short. I would love to look more into techniques with the guys from Slate as they’re doing courses at Cut & Grind.

TOM DODD SPIRIT HAIR COMPANY It’s been a busy few months, what with planning my wedding and entering various competitions. I have been in contact with a really amazing hairdresser who is keen to produce a collection with me in August that’s going to help to build my hairdressing platform. I am also attending various schools to encourage young people to get into this incredible industry.

ON THE MOVE

Linton & Mac launches Future Talent programme THE AWARD-WINNING Scottish salon, Linton & Mac, has unveiled its Future Talent programme to champion young team members and help them to flourish. The programme aims to ensure all salon trainees and assistants receive the support and training they need to succeed in hairdressing. Jen Linton and Joanna MacDonald, codirectors of Linton & Mac, said: “From the moment we opened our doors, we were

dedicated to finding great assistants. Our aim is to keep them driven and passionate, as well as excited and motivated.” The younger members are initially matched to a ‘buddy’ – a trained stylist – for three months, where they shadow them to watch and learn everything that they do. Once the assistant is ready, they are given their own column on a Saturday where they can offer blow-dry and styling appointments.

Gary Halliday is the new creative director at Andrew Jose Salon. A regular at Dazed and Vogue and who recently worked on a Renee Zellweger biopic of Judy Garland, Judy, said: “As a session stylist it’s like I’ve been a solo artist for the past two decades and now I’ve joined a band!” Meanwhile, Andrew Barton has been named creative director at Headmasters. Andrew will lead, coach and inspire the existing Headmasters Artistic Team, as well as create signature looks and services for the group.

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26/06/2018 16:00

MAKE YOUR HAIR GROWTH THE LEAST OF YOUR WORRIES

You have over 100,000 hairs growing at any time... ...a healthy head of hair should therefore be a handful

60% of women in the UK experience hair growth disruptions leading to thin and wispy hair. Salon Formula Hair Growth+ by NourkrinÂŽ is a scientifically researched hair growth food supplement developed to help support the normal healthy hair growth.

AVAILABLE AT:

Styling continues to be made easy by ghd with the launch of its new Oval Dressing Brush. Years in the making, this has nylon bristles for a sleek finish with minimal static.

RRP £20 01924 423400 ghdhair.com

L’Oréal Professionnel has introduced the Série Expert Blondifier haircare range for extra hair TLC. Formulated with Açaí Polyphenol from the superfood açaí berry the range helps to revive blonde hair.

IN-SALON SERVICE; RRP FROM £12.50 0800 0304034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk

Let the sunlight in with new Colorsmetique Intense Blonde from Revlon Professional’s Revlonissimo. The formula lifts up to five levels for brighter blondes.

IN-SALON SERVICE 020 73917440 revlonprofessional.com

Irresistible products consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team

As blonde shades continuing to dominate in summer, the new Redken Blondage range is right on time. The shampoo and conditioner feature new ultra-violet pigments to combat brassiness.

RRP FROM £15.50 020 8762 4000 redken.co.uk

Colour-treated hair can suffer in the sun, but luckily you can help your clients bring it back to its former glory with the JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock. This one simple treatment provides a host of wonderful benefits for even the most lacklustre hair. Formulated with peptides, this advanced formula leaves hair feeling stronger and nine-times more resistant to breakage – even when wet. It also provides incredible shine, smoothness and a hit of volume too. Use it at the backwash as the ultimate add-on, then let clients take it home and keep up the good work.

Add a flush of blush tones to modernise blonde shades. Schwarzkopf Professional’s BLONDME Blush Wash comes in four romantic shades for minimal commitment in-salon toning, or to maintain delicate shades between salon visits.

RRP £17.25 0800 526741

schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk

RRP £17.45 0845 0712326 joicoeurope.com

Get ready for a colour revolution from Affinage. The Creative Colour Thickener allows you to customise the viscosity of your colouring and lightening products, without impacting on formula.

DON’T THROW AWAY OLD HAIR EXTENSIONS –

IN-SALON SERVICE 01794 527111

Remi Cachet has affinage.com teamed up with Matter of Trust to recycle them, whatever the brand! For details, visit remicachet.com

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Fight urban pollution with Alfaparf Milano’s newly-enhanced Semí Dí Lino line-up, featuring its new Urban Defence Pro complex, which shields hair from environmental pollutants for prolonged results.

RRP FROM £10.95 LISA.MARANGON@ ALFAPARFGROUP.IT

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RRP FROM £16 0344 8440944 tigicopyright.com

CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2018 13:08

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS

LAUNCH OF THE SUMMER

Building on the success of its groundbreaking entry into hair tools, Dyson has listened to feedback from real stylists across the globe and re-engineered its iconic Supersonic hair dryer to unveil a better-thanever Professional edition. Features include a removable, washable filter cage (with its very own brush!) to keep your finely-tuned machine hair and residue free; a professional concentrator nozzle that’s wider and thinner for precision styling (magnetic, of course – and with a hold that’s twice as strong – and now with cool grip edges) and a longer cable to freely move around your client as you need. That’s all on top of that revolutionary Dyson digital motor V9 in the handle, giving you a better balance, and Intelligent Heat Control that helps keep hair strong and healthy. Tested in salons and backstage at Fashion Week, the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition means business – treat your kit bag and invest, because the future of drying is here.

FOR ENQUIRIES AND PRICES CALL 0800 345 7788

dyson.co.uk/professionalhaircare

Christopher Kane at London Fashion Week S/S18. Models styled using the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition

OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

IT’S ALL ABOUT... SUMMER Beach towels at the ready! The new milk_shake Sun & More collection contains UV filters, Vitamin E and natural fruit oils to protect hair from being ravaged by the sun and sea.

RRP FROM £14.19 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk

CREATIVE HEAD

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Bumble and bumble’s much-loved Surf Spray has enjoyed a summery upgrade. It’s available in two new scents – Malibu Beach’s coconut vibes or Montauk Dunes for fresh florals. Now clients just need a beach to go with it...

RRP £23 0800 0884167 bumbleandbumble.co.uk

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R U YO ITH T S SW O BO INES S BU

£15,000

IS THE AMOUNT GALLAGHER & HORNER IN GLASGOW MADE IN ONE YEAR FROM SMARTBOND, THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL. THE SALON BELIEVES THE TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATION SMARTBOND OFFERS IS SECOND TO NONE AND, BY INTEGRATING THE SERVICE INTO EVERY COLOUR PRICE, IT HAS INCREASED SALON PROFITS. THE TEAM BELIEVES THAT SMARTBOND HAS REVOLUTIONISED THE SALON’S COLOURING METHODS AND THE OFFERING CONTINUES TO COMPLEMENT THE SALON’S CORE VALUES AND PRINCIPLES. CLIENTS ARE OVERWHELMINGLY POSITIVE, TOO. SALON OWNER BRIAN GALLAGHER SHARES SOME OF HIS TOP TIPS ON SELLING SMARTBOND IN-SALON…

1 Motivate your staff members and develop their understanding of the Smartbond technology and how it works by attending one of L’Oréal Professionnel’s seminars and having in-salon demonstrations. Then, why not organise workshops in-house to get your team fully onboard? 2 Use the standalone treatment in the salon continually. Why not use it as a preparatory treatment for new clients who have endured stress on their hair? The results we have seen are truly remarkable and it has quadrupled the number of standalone treatments in our salon, as well as our proﬁt. 3 Integrate the price of Smartbond into every colour service. We were honest with clients and we made them aware of this during their consultation. We believe that once a client experiences the beneﬁts of Smartbond, they are happy to pay an additional £10 for their colour service.

THE FIX

Need inspiration? Why not have a go at creating this summer look by @alﬁehair at @headmastersuk using new Instant Highlights: Step 1: Apply 15 meches using Instant Highlights in the #instalights technique. Step 2: Tone with DIA Richesse 7.31 at the roots blending into a mix of DIA Richesse .24 and clear throughout the lenths and ends. Step 3: Use Smartbond throughout. Don’t forget to share your Instant Highlights creations using @lorealpro #lorealprouk #instanthighlights #smartbond

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RETAIL REHAB Coming soon, L’Oréal Professionnel Série Expert Blondifier is a bespoke colour care solution to revive blonde hair. Enriched with Açaí Polyphenol, an antioxidant found in the açaí berry, Série Expert Blondifier is perfect for any blonde who wants fresh colour, shine and radiance. CREATIVE HEAD

22/06/2018 13:10

Be a

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

COLOUR ADDICT S FOR SUMMER SOLUTION IENTS CL UR ALL OF YO

With summer now in full swing, your clients will be looking to you to work your magic and give them the perfect summer-fresh hair – and that’s where L’Oréal Professionnel comes in. From the time-seeker to the loyal colour clients and the daring festival fanatics, there is a summer look for everyone. Offer your time-seeking clients new Instant Highlights, providing up to six levels of lift in as little as 30 seconds. Give your faithful coloured clients a summer boost they wish for with the INOA Suprême ammonia-free range. It creates multi-dimensional results to soften their features, enhance their skin tone and cover up to 100 per cent of white hair. Not forgetting those clients of yours who are more creative and daring. This summer, show off your creativity with #COLORFULHAIR Flash Pro Hair Make-Up giving you the perfect opportunity to create endless colour combinations instantaneously, whatever the occasion…

*May last longer depending on the porosity of the hair

FLASH

#COLORFULHAIR Flash is available in eight fun-ﬁlled shades and is compatible with all hair bases. Just like applying eyeshadow, the product coats the hair in pigmented colour and then washes out in just one shampoo.* Pre-lightening is not required either, it’s the ideal opportunity to express your creativity in salon and create a #COLORFULHAIR Flash look for every occasion! And don’t forget Tecni.ART – the perfect styling partner to keep the fabulous looks you create in check.

DO THIS

NOW

1) Create a summer service menu catering to all of your clients’ essential summer needs, such as Speedy Highlights, The Summer Boost, The Flash Touch… 2) Why not partner with local events such as fetes, festivals or barbecues and have a #COLORFULHAIR Flash bar? It’s a perfect way to promote your salon…

3) Get creative and share your finished looks across social media and with L’Oréal Professionnel, too, by including @lorealpro #lorealprouk

Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – call 0800 030 4034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2018 13:11

18 #LCT L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

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#LCT18

“I’ve been travelling the world with L’Oréal Professionnel for 16 years, and every country looks up to you – British stylists and colourists!” BEATRICE DAUTZENBERG, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS DIVISION, UK & IRELAND

British colourists showed how they’re shaping the future of the industry with a masterful display of skill and creativity at the 2018 L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final. This year’s competition drew to a spectacular close as salons from all over the UK showed off their techniques and creative vision for fashion-led looks. And what a display it was! From cherry-red hair stains to outfit-coordinating shades of deep purple, punchy peach and canary yellow, bright, bold, look-at-me colour absolutely rules 2018 – proof, as if it were needed, that colour is the most exciting element in hairdressing right now.

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L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY WINNER TREVOR SORBIE, MANCHESTER

L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

THE 2018 winners L’Oréal Professionnel has never wavered from delivering the Colour Trophy every year for 63 years (it’s the longest-running live hair competition in the world). It has been a driving force for gaining respect and recognition for British colourists and colour trends – a hallowed proving ground for the most seasoned colourists in the country, and also a great place for spotting red-hot new talent. This year’s winners prove that British colourists are the most creative, skilful and downright exciting in the world. The looks they created for men and women were superb and will set high street colour trends in 2018 and beyond. Bravo!

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#LCT18

L’ORÉAL STAR AWARD WINNER TAYLOR CLAYTON SPICER, PAUL EDMONDS

L’ORÉAL AFRO AWARD WINNER RICK ROBERTS SALON

L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE AWARD WINNER THE BOUTIQUE ATELIER

L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY THIRD PLACE JAMIE STEVENS, CLAPHAM L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY SECOND PLACE CHARLIE MILLER, STAFFORD STREET 31

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L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY

21ST CENTURY

image

Three exceptional hair teams in one spectacular show: L’Oréal Professionnel explored how we capture beauty within an ever-changing, media-driven world

THE MOVING IMAGE DARK | LIGHT BY PERCY & REED Inspired by hair in its moving form, the team played with scale as well as a variety of unusual materials. There were bursts of primary colours on ankle-length feathered headdresses, braids and dreadlocks wrapped in thread and bubble-wrap, and a McQueenesque antler creation that was dripping in crystals. The showstopping look was a giant globe of a wig, featuring candy-floss texture and wisps of neon snaking through pastel pink.

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#LCT18

THE INSTANT IMAGE BY KEN PICTON Inspired by the on-the-fly editing and trend-hungry tendencies of the selfie generation, the audience witnessed a millennial mermaid with emerald green lengths pose for aerial pictures in the centre of the runway, before being joined by a dreamy pastel afro that was proudly #nofilter. Social media techniques were exaggerated for the stage, with festival-ready braids supersized and tonal tuning recreated IRL with super-saturated colours.

THE EDITORIAL IMAGE BY BROOKS & BROOKS Taking the audience behind the lens, Brooks & Brooks emulated a live set, with sculptural, minimal looks emerging to the sound of shutters and camera flashes. Their palette was strictly pastel, composed of gentle mint greens, airy pinks and powder purples, with hair wrapped in elastic and contained within frayed muslin sheets blasted with hairspray. Each porcelain pose the models struck was accompanied by studio shots of the hair, taken prior to the presentation and blown up two storeys high on the dazzling video screens behind them. 33

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22/06/2018 13:14

Darcie and Olli

#CHedit

IT LIST RISING STAR AND GENERATION Z TEAM MEMBER, DARCIE HARVEY, QUIZZES COLLEAGUE OLLI HULL ON WHY HE EMBRACED A CAREER IN HAIRDRESSING!

Olli Hull Age: 24 Salon: Brooks & Brooks

DARCIE HARVEY: What got you started on the road to hair? OLLI HULL: I studied art at university but after graduating I was disheartened by the lack of career options. I wanted a job I could apply my creativity to. My mum is a hairdresser, and suggested I learn a trade. She said: “If you’re going to do it, do it properly.” So I moved to London, joined Brooks & Brooks and never looked back. DH: What have you loved about it so far? OH: It was scary just packing up my life and moving to London, I had no idea if I was making the right decision. But when I was up on that stage at Creative HEAD’s Salon Smart, presenting my own model and talking about what I’d created, it felt amazing – it’s something I never thought I’d have the confidence to do. I found a new medium for art – the hair replaced the canvas! DH: That’s pretty impressive! What’s your secret to accomplishing so much in such a short time?

OH: Staying humble and being able to take criticism on the chin. I’ve never come away from something think ‘that was perfect’ because there is always room for improvement. It’s important to listen to your peers and not take things too personally. DH: So what about the future? What are you doing in 10 years? OH: So much has happened in such a short period of time, I only started hairdressing 18 months ago! It’s hard to know what the future holds, but it’s exciting, and I’m enjoying the journey. Something I’d really be proud to achieve would be to create a collection that completely infused my art with hair. DH: Have you got a dream job you’d love to do? OH: Ooh, to hold an exhibition with the hair as the artwork. Each piece would be created with hair. My collection would be on the walls, while the models walk among the guests, displaying the hair for what it is – walking works of art.

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26/06/2018 16:01

NEW TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE

PROFESSIONAL.

PERSONAL.

PERFECT. CREATE BESPOKE HAIRCARE FOR YOUR CLIENTS FOR PERSONAL HAIR PERFECTION

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UNIQUE.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

EVERY CLIENT IS

SO IS THEIR

HAIR

AS CLIENTS BECOME MORE DEMANDING, IT’S MORE IMPORTANT THAN EVER TO PROVIDE A TRULY CUSTOMISED SALON EXPERIENCE TIGI Copyright Care is a new, 100 per cent professional, premium brand that delivers personalised, perfect results every time, with truly customised in-salon care services and revolutionary products that celebrate your artistry and copyright your client’s look. Designed to complement TIGI copyright©olour, new TIGI Copyright Care enables you to go beyond beautiful bespoke colour with hair diagnosis and a new customised care and create regime for professional, personal, perfect results every time. Developed by TIGI in close collaboration with International artistic director Anthony Mascolo and the TIGI Creative Team, TIGI Copyright Care is the result of extensive global research into emerging cultural trends and consumer preferences. The founding principle of TIGI is to inspire hairdressers, empowering them to progress their work, build their teams, develop client loyalty and ultimately grow their business. That’s why TIGI Copyright Care is supported by first-class education, social media, digital and visual assets and absolute commitment to the professional hairdresser.

“Just like TIGI copyright©olour range, we want you to excite and inspire your clients with personalised, perfect results every time. Each client’s hair is different. With TIGI Copyright Care you can go beyond the creation of beautiful, bespoke colours to also offer truly customised, in-salon care services to celebrate your artistry and ‘copyright’ every client’s look” ANTHONY MASCOLO

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INTRODUCING

GOING BEYOND BEAUTIFUL BESPOKE COLOUR WITH A NEW CUSTOMISED CARE AND CREATE RANGE FOR PROFESSIONAL, PERSONAL, PERFECT RESULTS EVERY TIME TIGI Copyright Care extends the colour consultation process to include hair diagnosis, enabling hairdressers to prescribe a personalised colour service and a customised care regime. And, because haircare starts in the salon, but continues in the client’s home, TIGI has created a personalised routine that clients can follow between salon visits – it's a personal touch that will make clients come back for more, ensuring their hair looks and feels sensational and in excellent condition all the time.

MEET SOME OF THE STAND-OUT PRODUCTS: Infused with marine protein complex, this professional only in-salon treatment penetrates hair fibre at the core for dramatic results, restoring your clients’ hair to virgin strength in just five minutes.*

IN-SALON TREATMENTS

Following your client hair diagnosis, boost your in-salon client treatment with an intense level of repair, smooth, or shine – you can offer 28 custom combinations from just four products! One scoop of the nourishing Treatment Base + six pumps of any combination of Shine, Smooth or Repair booster is a simple way to customise treatments for hair that is less damaged.

TAKE-HOME TREATMENTS

Copyright Treatment Boosters offer an added intense level of repair, smooth or shine to your clients' hair. Use in the salon as a backbar treatment and retail to your clients for at-home usage, helping them to maintain their colour and condition between salon visits and for you to increase retail sales.

SHAMPOOS & CONDITIONERS

All shampoos and conditioners are infused with TIGI’s Colour Care Complex – a unique blend of coconut oil, 18 MEA lipids and keratin.

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*When used as a system, reduction in breakage versus non-conditioning shampoo

SOS RECOVERY TREATMENT

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SHOWCASE YOUR

EXPERTISE TIGI Copyright Care has been created to inspire you and your clients, making you the expert you want to be. Bespoke in-salon services have been created to drive your business and support your retail sales with individually created aftercare packages to encourage your clients to invest in their hair. In addition, TIGI wants to help you to create a dialogue with your clients with a suite of Copyright Care digital assets that will make life easier for you and the team, so you can continue to service your clients while meeting your marketing objectives. You should also check out the TIGI Copyright Digital Consultation Tool, developed exclusively for stylists. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a web-based consultation tool that will provide you and the salon team with the most personal consultation service, allowing you to recommend the perfect colour and care for your clients. For further information about any of the digital assets, including the TIGI Copyright Digital Consultation Tool, call 0344 8440944 or email eu.customerservice@tigi.com

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL 8pp_Tigi 2.indd 7

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TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE PROFESSIONAL. PERSONAL. PERFECT.

FIND OUT MORE tigicopyright.com

TIGICOPYRIGHT

TIGIPROFESSIONAL

/TIGIPROFESSIONAL

Call 0344 8440944 to arrange a meeting with a TIGI account manager

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#CHedit

Inside story ANNE VECK BICESTER

It was while on a trip to Namibia that Anne Veck discovered Ilana’s Hair Gallery, all built from recycled, reconstituted materials, furniture and iron work. A year later, and Anne is unveiling her new Bicester salon, inspired by Ilana’s and with a commitment to being green. The result is an industrial, stripped-back warehouse feel, while still airy, well-lit and welcoming. And it’s been a family affair, with everything built by Anne, her two brothers Eric and Sylvain, partner Keith and nephew Phil. Got a wreck? Turn to Veck – Anne and her brothers made the reception desk, styling stations, the colour table, retail display, colour bar, cupboards… you name it! Coffee table, magazine racks and selfie wall – all from recycled pallets and cable drums. Elsewhere, the new interior walls, plumbing and electricals are by 100% Salons, while Revlon Professional contributed to the branding. The focal feature is the round colour table in the centre of the salon, made from a huge old cable drum. It’s a space for clients to sit and read, work and chat. “Clients love it and it’s become the communal hub of the salon,” says Anne.

HOT BUYS LOUNGE LOVER

Do you have a habit of changing your mind, keen to keep things mixed up? Then the Lounge waiting seats from Salon Ambience are perfect. Available in single, double and triple place seats, they can be combined to create a number of different scenarios. PROMOTIONAL PRICE FROM £259 (RRP £499) UNTIL 31 AUGUST 07554 990965 salonambience.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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now open PAUL EDMONDS LONDON BATTERSEA POWER STATION Part of an exciting new development, the salon has eschewed a reception desk in favour of a drinks bar, alongside a blow-dry bar for express hair and nails services.

26/06/2018 16:02

THE SECRET OF… ADJUSTING YOUR USP IN AN EVOLVING LANDSCAPE

SOCIAL MEDIA DISTRACTION OR BUSINESS DRIVER?

CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR IS CHANGING. BUSINESSES NEED TO ENSURE WHAT THEY ARE OFFERING IS INTERESTING AND UNIQUE TO STAY AHEAD OF THE COMPETITION. THE EXPERTS AT MINDBODY SHARE THREE WAYS TO DEVELOP YOUR OFFERING…

YOUR TICKET TO THE FUTURE

Technology is integrated into the way people live. Recent research by MINDBODY found that more than three-quarters of those aged between 18 to 24 use technology as part of their daily wellness routines. Getting to grips with technology and incorporating the latest advances into your business is a great way of keeping things fresh.

BYE-BYE 9 TO 5

Flexible working is on the rise and tweaking your offering to reﬂect this change in clients’ schedules could have a huge impact on your business. MINDBODY revealed almost half of respondents said they have no preferred time to get treatments, suggesting peak times are becoming a thing of the past.

THINK OUTSIDE THE BOX

There are thousands of salons across the UK, so make yours different to drive footfall. Get creative and think about services or offerings that can really add value, in addition to your standard cut and colour. IN ASSOCIATION WITH

For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY, visit uk.mindbodyonline.com

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WHEN IT COMES to followers on social media, is less really more? Young stylists are facing unprecedented pressure to cultivate an impressive online portfolio, from the very beginning of their training. With less time to spare, and their attention pulled in multiple directions, where should their focus be? “Social media plays havoc with young hairdressers,” asserts Tom Dodd, hair stylist at Spirit Hair Design and one of the Generation Z team that’s taken over this issue of Creative HEAD. “Everyone sees these amazing hairstyles and think they can get a look so easily. When something isn’t possible it gives you a bad name or implies that you’re not a good hairdresser.” “I find younger hairdressers feel the pressure because they’re not only trying to learn how to run a column, they’re learning how to adapt themselves to different situations with different types of people,” says Dale Hollinshead, owner of Hazel & Haydn. “They also feel the pressure to showcase their work on Instagram to gain new clients. Of course they feel it takes time away from their actual job, but it’s now, in a way, part of their job.” It’s not just unrealistic expectations that young stylists have to tackle nowadays, but time. When building a column, how much of this precious commodity should be spent on social media? Andy Heasman, international creative director for Rush, detailed the brand’s approach to posting: “Our team members are allowed to take before and

after images or progress pictures of their clients’ hair, but cannot post until they are on their break or finished for the day. We are all-for showcasing the incredible work of our younger team, however, being active on social media during working hours on the salon floor is prohibited. The clients are our number one priority.” Mathew Watt, owner and director of Mathew Watt Hair, takes a similar view. “The experience is always the number one priority,” he says. “When we have clients booked in that are looking for a big change, or someone whose look we know is going to create a good image, I book out an extra 10 minutes at the end of the appointment so the team can get that image.” The pressure on established salons is high as it is, but the impetus on emerging artists to race ahead in a crowded market, vying for attention and followers, concerns some salon directors. “It is a great tool for attracting staff and showcasing our work, but I feel that many users are prioritising followers and likes as a tool for recognition and we will never insist our team use it this way,” notes Sally Brooks, co-owner of Brooks & Brooks. Social media is becoming something of a necessary evil – to not have a strong presence online is a real problem to any business. But in salons, where time is very much money and hands are always occupied, snapping away can be more of a hindrance than a help. Is it possible to strike a balance?

Darcie Harvey, Brooks & Brooks Instagram is a gift and a curse for hairdressers. Yes, it is an easy way to build your platform and connect with other creatives, however it is no longer a fun app that you use for your own pleasure. We are now expected to constantly keep everyone updated – which can be hard when you are running a fully-booked day of clients. For example, I had a beautiful client with a classic one length bob come in late (halfway through her appointment) but she still wanted to leave on time. So, tight for time, I put my head down and did a haircut I was proud of. It would have been the perfect content for social media and I felt the “Insta-pressure”. What do I put ﬁrst? My client or Instagram? The answer is obvious; if the client enjoys her experience, she will come back and that will be the appropriate opportunity to take a picture.

22/06/2018 17:05

VIVISCAL

â&#x201E;¢

GROWTH SUPPLEMENTS PROUD SPONSORS OF

Viviscal Pro Creative Head ad.indd 1

09/05/2018 15:20

#BusinessEdit

LISA MARANGON ALFAPARF MILANO WHAT MAKES ALFAPARF MILANO UNIQUE? It’s a brand that’s true to its word. Born in the fashion capital of Milan, it offers amazing creativity, blended with technical innovation. With beautiful packaging that is very Italian, everything is supported by a purpose-built cut and colour programme. Also, we offer one of the largest professional colour ranges in the world – every second a woman leaves a hair salon wearing our colour.

ANYTHING NEW ON THE WAY? Yes, we’ve just launched Detoxifying Mud with activated carbon, designed to remove toxic substances caused by pollution. It transforms hair after just one application and is excellent for people living in major cities. Every year, we have no fewer than six major launches supported by strong marketing materials and point of sale items to help explain the technology and drive sales.

WHAT’S THE INNOVATION YOU’RE MOST PROUD OF? Our three patents-pending and award-winning Pigments line. Think of a pure colour pigment line of ultra-concentrated colours that can be used to create colour by adding it to any alkaline and acidic hair product! Pigments enhances any colour, turn styling mousse into a copper mousse for example, or simply add it to a conditioner.

038_QAJuly.indd 1

THe generation z team quiz a hair hero!

Angelo Seminara Tom Dodd Where do you turn for inspiration when you're struggling for ideas? I have to be honest, the answer to this question is simple but I don’t want this to sound arrogant at all. I have a high level of curiosity and so I don’t run out of ideas – it’s just the way my brain works. Having too many ideas can in itself be a problem. It’s a bit like having an external hard drive that collects information all day long. The hard part is letting go of the wrong ideas. I can’t sleep at night for them all. It’s very important to test out ideas and develop them for their own sake, though, and this way they can become a base for something better.

Darcie Harvey Can you give an example of a moment in your career that changed the way you approached things? I like this question! Yes, it was probably during a really difficult time when I was sure that I was completely right but was actually very wrong. This has happened at many moments during my career, from managing a team to packing my session bags, and each time it’s a lesson that helps you become better, and each time it changes my view on how I approach things. Really there are lots of these moments. You have to be very open-minded and go with the flow. When you see a change, instead of worrying about it, just try it – that is what changes your view. This can be exciting and it certainly benefits you in the future.

Sam william Hill Who has been the biggest influence on your career? In hairdressing, Trevor Sorbie MBE has been my mentor, and I look up to the incredible Leonard of Mayfair – but Generation Z might not know who he is!

Tegan Robertson What has been your biggest mistake and how did you recover from it? This is difﬁcult. Oh, I worked on a book once and it nearly killed me! I worked for three months – literally day and night. I was creating content, shooting many leading models like Lara Stone and working at that high level of concentration and output meant that I just didn’t switch off, 24/7 for 12 weeks. That sort of thing really messes you up psychologically as it was so exhausting. I wasn’t alone as the photographer literally collapsed on the couch at the end of the shoot! It was a constant challenge every minute to make the book – it was a great experience but I’m not sure I’ll ever quite recover from it!

Harry Wiffen If you could change one thing in the hair industry, what would it be? I would probably start thinking much more in ecological terms, such as being more sustainable. I would like us to think twice about what we use, how we use it, even how we get to work and basically to reuse more things. On the products side, I want to see more coming out that are truly organic and that don’t affect our health. Also, I would like hairdressers to share enivronmentally-friendly ideas to help spread them across the industry. The UK is the best country for sharing ideas and it would be good to see this happen, for the environment and for the industry.

CREATIVE HEAD

26/06/2018 16:03

#BusinessEdit

Protect your salon from cyberattacks IS YOUR SALON safe from cyberattacks? Recent government figures show that 43 per cent of UK businesses were victims of a cyberattack in the past 12 months, rising to 72 per cent for larger companies. “Cybercriminals can damage, destroy or breach your salon computer system, often to commit financial fraud,” explains Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF. “Take a backup of your data on a regular basis,” says Hilary. “Make sure your virus software is up-to-date and your firewall is switched on.” Look out for fake emails (a type of attack called phishing) that ask for bank details and so on. Warning signs include poor spelling, dodgy logos and suspicious email addresses. “Password protect all your data and make sure remote devices can be locked or tracked if stolen. And ensure all your salon staff know how to guard against cyberattacks,” says Hilary.

SALONS STRUGGLING TO ATTRACT THE BEST STAFF Recent government figures show that record numbers of people aged 16-64 are now in work – the highest number since records began in 1971. “This means there are 116,000 fewer people looking for work than a year ago,” says NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. “And salons are telling us that it is becoming more of a struggle to recruit qualified staff and apprentices.” To find out more about an initiative to fight the recruitment crisis in the hair industry, visit choosehair.co.uk

NHF BACKS CALL FOR VAT REFORM A NEW NHF survey about VAT has attracted a huge response from salon owners who say reforms are needed to ensure fairness. “A common complaint is that salons that employ staff are far more likely to have to pay VAT than those who have chair renters,” says Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF. “This is because salons with employees are treated as a single business and are far more likely to reach the £85,000 threshold than salons with self-employed chair renters who pay their tax individually. A further bugbear is that salons who pay VAT also have to charge their clients VAT.” The results of the NHF survey will be passed to government, which is currently looking into thresholds. “There will be no changes until 2020,” explains Hilary, “but in the meantime, the NHF is making strong recommendations to the government, with our preferred solution being to significantly raise the VAT threshold to £500,000, which would benefit most salons. “We also believe the VAT rate should be reduced for labour-intensive industries such as hairdressing which have high staff costs and little scope for claiming back VAT on product sales. This system is already used in some EU member states.”

THE NHF’S RECOMMENDATIONS ALSO INCLUDE:

• Tiered rates of VAT: for example, 10 per cent for turnover of £85,000 to £100,000; 13 per cent for £100,000 to £150,000 and so on • Making better use of the existing flat rate VAT scheme, with VAT paid at 13 per cent on a turnover of less than £150,000 • VAT at 20 per cent for labour-intensive industries once they reach £85,000 turnover – but only on the portion above £85,000, not the full amount

PARENTAL LEAVE – DON’T GET CAUGHT OUT A RECENT SURVEY carried out for the government found that many parents don’t really understand shared parental leave (SPL) and don’t know that it’s a legal right. SPL allows eligible couples to share up to 52 weeks’ leave after the baby’s birth. “It’s good salon practice to have clear maternity, paternity and SPL leave policies in place,” says NHF chief executive Hilary Hall. “But be careful, you may face a discrimination claim if you pay an employee more than the statutory minimum maternity pay but stick to the statutory rates for SPL. To stay on the safe side, treat all your staff the same.”

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2018 13:17

n target

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

Your targeted toolbox to help build your salon business bigger and better, in association with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel

RETAIL REGENERATION

It can be difﬁcult to get retail sales to improve in the salon – stylists often say they’re not comfortable ‘selling’ products to the client in the chair. But our reader panel reported higher monthly retail growth compared with the annual trend, so how are salons working to boost ﬁgures? Anne Pileggi at Hairworks noted that her salon incentivised staff on retail “at certain times of the year, when we have new things in such as summer and Christmas promotions”, and this has had a positive effect. Fiona Bell at Clinton James, like all of our panel, sends staff on training courses and adds: “We offer commission-based incentives and competitions as well. Staff like the ‘random’ incentives as it’s not the big retail sellers who win all the time.” Reader panel salons report retail as a percentage of annual turnover as:

7.29%

Has retail grown in past year?

YES 29% STABLE 22% NO 49%

Most popular retail products

*SaloniQ ﬁgures for May 2017 to May 2018

1. CARE 2. STYLING 3. SPECIALIST (ie thinning)

AVERAGE MONTHLY RETAIL TURNOVER

11.9% £45.83

AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (EX. VAT)

Business in May compared with April?

NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR

9.5% OF BUSINESS (May 2018)

“We are trying a new system – everyone gets £500 commission as long as they hit targets. If they go under by £100 we reduce it by £10 and so on – the details go up on a white board and it seems to motivate more”

GROWING 100%

Business in May compared with May last year? DECLINING 7% STABLE 7%

GROWING 86%

PAUL DAVIES, TOP TO TOE

SNAPSHOT

There has been an increase in the average retail bill for the month of May in 2017 and 2018:

ARE YOU ON TARGET?

The average retail bill in May 2018 was

£3.21,

an increase of 23 per cent on last year.

HOW HEALTHY HAS SALON RETAIL LOOKED IN THE PAST YEAR*?

The Average Care Factor – which measures how many clients purchase products in salon – for 2018 is

8.6

0.3 lower than last year

Retail percentage compared with services is

5.7%

WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM 40

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CREATIVE HEAD

25/06/2018 12:44

TEACH ME!

BUSINESS BUILDER

#BusinessEdit

Sun, chlorinated water and styling for occasions can all dry out hair and fade colour over the summer months, so make sure you’re equipped to offer clients rejuvenating services and treatments to restore luscious locks. Sally Salon Services’ Express Colour Correct & Restore course (£100) will give you complete understanding of the practical and theoretical aspects of colour correction, as well as the skills required to correct common colour issues.

Retail sales have the potential to significantly boost your bottom line, so make it a priority for your business this summer. Holiday season is a great time to sell handy travel-sized add-ons to clients to generate some extra revenue, such as Osmo’s brand new 100ml Super Silver No Yellow Mask (£2.99 ex VAT), which is exclusive to Salon Services. It’s the perfect conditioning treatment for ash blondes. It’s also a great trial size for anyone new to the Osmo range.

THE SERVICE STATION In association with

Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!

ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!

Meet Sheree Rankin, store manager at Salon Services’ Oswald Street store in Glasgow Q: With summer now in full swing, more and more clients want to know how to get perfect beach waves, but what is the best way to show them how to do this? A: “Relaxed, flattering and

All prices listed are exclusive of VAT

ON RIGHT NOW Throughout the month of July, Sally Salon Services customers – both online and in store – will receive a free Action Camera when they spend £100 on one of the following brands: ASP, BaByliss PRO, Barnum, Gellish, L’Oréal Professionnel, Maria Nila, OPI, Salon Systems, Schwarzkopf Professional, TIGI, Wella Professionals or XP. The offer excludes mix and match between brands and is limited to one camera per customer/ transaction.

WELL-GROOMED BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT

COMING SOON to a Salon Services near you: new Oster clippers. Sally Salon Services is excited to be adding two new Oster clippers to its website this July – the Pro Power Clipper and the mXpro Clipper. Both products have high-powered motors to provide efficient and top-tier trims on both wet and dry hair.

easy to maintain beach waves are a summer staple. I keep a mannequin head in the store, with a range of curling tools and wands on hand so that I can demonstrate the best way to use each tool to create different looks. Wands are client-friendly and tend to be the best for achieving flowing waves, using a downward motion, but you can also use straighteners to achieve the same effect, by holding them vertically and twisting. “Also, don’t forget to stock up on heat protector sprays to counter the drying effects of the sun for in-salon retail.”

FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2018 13:20

#BusinessEdit

GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE? LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION

How can we be clear about our goals with our bosses and gain mutual respect and support, without them getting worried and thinking we're going to fly the nest? The Generation Z team

KEN'S DIAGNOSIS AS PART OF THE culture of 3•6•5 we have a code of behaviour called Guidelines to Greatness. One of these is “Find out what people want and help them to achieve it.” We also believe in balance and that “what works for both will last, and what works for one will end as soon as there is a viable alternative.” I understand that as a young person with long-term goals, these may not involve your current salon or current employer, but sharing these goals should not necessarily affect your current position. Okay, if someone came and told me that they planned to move to Australia in three months’ time, I might be reticent to invest in an expensive course. But if a stylist shared that their long-term goal was to have their own salon, I would think about how this passion could be harnessed to benefit us both while that stylist was part of my team. I would also think how this passion could be part of my own long-term vision to grow my brand with the best possible people. A salon has to be

owned or managed by people with a similar set of ideals and a desire for success. As I said earlier, if part of my role as a salon owner is to “find out what people want and help them to achieve it”, why can’t this be done together? I remember the mistakes I made as a young salon owner and wish I could have found the right mentor to work with. Often people want to take a more creative path and get involved with session work or platform work. Again, this passion can be used to benefit any salon. Imagery is an important part of marketing for any salon and imagery produced ‘in house’ says far more about the creativity of a salon than library or manufacturer supplied imagery. Talking of manufacturers, most of them have art teams nowadays. These can be used to promote brands at events such as trade shows, or to promote brands in salons. If you get involved with high-quality brands, for example one of the brands that my own company distributes is Paul Mitchell, it is often looking for talented, creative people, and provides education and opportunities to benefit both parties. The only thing I would add is that stylists often love to be involved with this type of work because it can be fun and exciting. However, at the end of the day, such involvement must be used to benefit and grow their own columns, to educate and grow their salon colleagues and to enhance the marketing of the salon in which they work. Share your dreams and goals, often they can become the dreams and goals of others. Together everyone achieves more.

DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU'D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com or tweet us at @creativeheadmag

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CREATIVE HEAD

26/06/2018 16:04

18 20

TEAM AWARDS 2018 FINALISTS BEST SALON TEAM Category sponsor

Blue Tit, London Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester Review, Hampshire Sixth Sense Salon, Birmingham SJ Forbes, Surrey

BEST LOCAL SALON Category sponsor

R A T S L AL L L A C L ROL RIES WAS T N E ’S R A E Y IS H JUDGING T S THE T U C O H W O S , H CRAZY-TOUG MUSTARD? LADIES MOST WANTED E’S WHO’S HOT… AND GENTS, HER ag #MWIT18 @creativeheadm d .com/mostwante creativeheadmag

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George’s Hairdressing, Leicester Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester Porters Barbers, London Pure Hair, Surrey Saks, Aberdeen

BEST SALON EXPERIENCE Category sponsor

Cut & Grind, Covent Garden Hare & Bone, London Not Another Salon, London Radio, Kings Cross Stil, London

BEST NEW SALON Category sponsor

Nashwhite, Stratford-upon-Avon Nicola Clarke at John Frieda, London Radio, Kings Cross Skyler London, London The Social, London

26/06/2018 10:08

INDIVIDUAL AWARDS 2018 FINALISTS MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST

HAIR TREND Category sponsor

Category sponsor

Michael Francos, D&J Ambrose Matthew Gavin, Ruﬃans Kevin Luchmun, Kevin Luchmun Jody Taylor Christian Wiles, Christian Wiles

CREATIVE TALENT

Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone Eﬁ Davies, Toni&Guy Stephanie Gamble, Ashley Gamble Kevin Kahan, Kevin Kahan Ken Picton, Ken Picton Salon

AWARD FOR INNOVATION Category sponsor

IT’S ON

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL

Category sponsor

Andrew Barton Sam Burnett, Hare & Bone Zoë Irwin, Taylor Taylor London Adam Reed, Percy & Reed Angelo Vallillo, DNA Artspace

Tim Binnington for The Manta Syd Hayes for #SydPin Robert Masciave for eBlade scissors Steve McManus for Hairtribe Stewart Roberts for Haircuts 4 Homeless

BUSINESS THINKER

SESSION STYLIST

Category sponsor

Katy Grimshaw, Spectrum One Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon Skyler McDonald, Skyler London Sally Montague, Sally Montague Hair Group Caroline Sanderson, Ego Hair Design

Syd Hayes Larry King James Pecis Adam Reed Eugene Souleiman

COLOUR EXPERT

HAIR ICON

Category sponsor

Clayde Baumann, D&J Ambrose Sarah Black, Linton & Mac Claire Bonney, Radio Casey Coleman, CHAIR Sophia Hilton, Not Another Salon

044-047_MWIT.indd 2

Duﬀ y Sally Brooks Nicola Clarke Syd Hayes Sophia Hilton Sam McKnight Adam Reed Angelo Seminara Eugene Souleiman Josh Wood

UT4 610940 DO SOT L 01 ONLY CALL 43

WAITING LIS

03.09.18 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

LONDON 2018

event

26/06/2018 16:06

2018 THE RISING STAR ELLIOT FORBES BARBERBARBER THOMAS FORDE CUT & GRIND

THIS S U S I D 100 PER N A Y R A N O TI U L O V E R , S U AMBITIO CREDIBLY IN E TH T E E M â&#x20AC;&#x201C; S S E L R A E F CENT IST! TL R O H S 8 1 0 2 T IS L IT D TE N TALE event ag #MWIT18 @creativeheadm .com/theitlist creativeheadmag

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OLIVER HULL BROOKS & BROOKS JORDAN MASSARELLA NASHWHITE ISAAC VERRALL PERCY & REED

THE FASHIONISTA JODIE AUSTEN THE PEACHY STUDIO JACK BAKER BAD APPLE HAIR KIERON FOWLES REGIS UK MADS SUNE LUND CHRISTENSEN JOSH WOOD ATELIER CHAD MAXWELL

THE ENTREPRENEUR PHIL BENTON DOUCE ROB CZLAPKA RCNQ JENNIFER LINTON LINTON & MAC RICKY WALTERS SALON 64 STUART WHITELAW MESART

26/06/2018 10:09

FINALISTS THE VISIONARY JAMIE BENNY

HARE & BONE

GRACE DALGLEISH BROOKS & BROOKS RIA KULIK THE HAIRBANK JESSICA NEIL KH HAIR JAKE UNGER HOB SALONS

THE IT GUY JAMES EARNSHAW BAD APPLE HAIR MARLON HAWKINS BROOKS & BROOKS PADDY MCDOUGALL RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL JAMIE RICHARDS RICHARDS HAIRDRESSING JAKE UNGER HOB SALONS

THE IT GIRL SARAH BLACK LINTON & MAC JORDANNA COBELLA COBELLA GRACE DALGLEISH BROOKS & BROOKS HARRIET MULDOON LARRY KING HARRIET ROSE STOKES NOT ANOTHER SALON

044-047_MWIT.indd 4

SHEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BACK KATHERINE RYAN RETURNS AS HOST

MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST GRAND FINAL UT4 610940 DO SOT L 01 ONLY CALL 43

WAITING LIS

03.09.18 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM

LONDON 2018

event

26/06/2018 10:09

100

SALONS ONE BIG

NIGHT

ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COMING...

26.09.18 048-049_BHD2.indd 1

22/06/2018 13:23

event

READY TO PARTY? GAIN NEW CLIENTS SELL LOTS OF PRODUCTS BOOST CLIENT LOYALTY HOST A BIG HAIR DO!

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22/06/2018 13:24

FEATURED ARTISTlive!

WITH NICK IRWIN AND RANKIN

7-10PM MONDAY 16 JULY 2018 RANKIN PHOTOGRAPHY STUDIOS, LONDON TICKETS Â£50 BUY ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE #cheducation @creativeheadmag @nickirwinhair @rankinarchive @babylissprouk

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JU LY

U UG /A EMBER 2018 SEPT ST/

MISTER QUARTERLY 01_Cover MRQ2.indd 1

22/06/2018 16:33

LEFT PAGE

IN COLLABORATION WITH

XPANDER JELLY

FULLER DENSER HAIR

LIGHT HOLD

Style former with Fibre Dense Technology to amplify and bulk up sparse, skinny hair, leaving it denser and fuller with a natural feel.

RIGHT PAGE

MINERAL PASTEty RAW GRit texture MEDIUM Hold

Ocean salt texture paste infused with Japanese Sea Kelp to create remouldable texture, moisturising volume and all day shine. FIND YOUR STOCKIST AT FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM

THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

of this year’s Salon One of the most popular sections with Matt Robinson, on Smart was the barbers’ discussi Jonathan Andrew and Tom Chapman, Andrew Cannon modern men’s of on about the business and percepti longer look – even an grooming. So we decided to take roundup from a e hav also turn to page 14 for more. We new collection a as well as London Fashion Week Men’s, the summer… ugh thro you from Joey Power. Plenty to see

GET SMART

1. 2. 3.

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER Party… at the Most Wanted Awards Grand Final on 3 September with host Katherine Ryan, where we reveal our Male Grooming Specialist. Turn to page 44 of Creative HEAD for more! creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted Book a course… at the new academy in Manchester from London School of Barbering. We recommend the NVQ 3 Masters advanced course, where you’ll cut up to six haircuts daily on clients. londonschoolofbarbering.com Be inspired… by reliving all of the action from The Coterie’s Evolution of Man, sponsored by American Crew and with insight from Robin James (left), Bora Esen, Colin Petrie, Mark Maciver and journalist Jessica Bumpus. creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie

YO TO U NE ME ED ET…

welcomes you…

LIAM HAMILTON

Hamilton’s Elite Barbershop, Redruth; founder, Armour to Barber

Describe yourself in five words: Loyal, determined, ambitious, adaptable, passionate. What’s exciting you about British barbering and male grooming right now? The fact that most people in the industry will go out of their way to help others, whether it be to help with a charity, organisation or to pass on their skills and knowledge. Everything changed for me… When I was at secondary school I never really bothered with my hair until I changed barbers and I was told there were all sorts of possibilities and styles available. I rocked a flat top for a few months – but we don’t need to dwell on that! The barber who inspired me is… There are many barbers who have inspired me over the years but one sticks out. He’s a hairdresser, stylist,

barber, educator, businessman and a lovely bloke too. Adam Sloan does so much work for charity and the future of barbering. Who else should we get to know… James Williams for his amazing work with his autism awareness campaigns. Tom Chapman for his tireless effort with male mental health awareness – all while flying all over the world to educate barbers. You might not know this about me… I served with the Coldstream Guards for 21 years and left just before my full 22 years due to a mental illness and injury. Say hello to me… on Instagram @armourtobarber, @hamiltonsbarbers, or on Facebook at Armour To Barber and Hamilton’s Elite Barber Shop.

ON THE COVER Hair by Joey Power. Colour by Andrea Reiss, assisted by Dammy Ogunleye courtesy of Ena Salon. Photography by Andrew Gilbert.

04 Mister Quarterly

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26/06/2018 16:44

NEW GROOM ROOM Eighty8, Rayleigh

MEET THE ELITE Alan Beak from Ruger (above, left) and Hard Grind’s Colin Petrie (above, right) are the new members of the American Crew Elite 2018 for the UK and Ireland. The title recognises individuals who contribute to the brand as inﬂuencers, session and stage stylists, educators and creatives, as well as ‘best practice’ barbers and represents exceptional practice in men’s grooming. Colin and Alan join a line-up that includes Baldy (Baldy’s Barbers), Matt Robinson (Mr Robinson’s Barbershop), Bora Esen (Porters Barbers), Sam Wall (Hidden Heights Studio), Dan Rix (The Master Barber’s Shop) and Paul Meekin (Paul Meekin Hair).

BBA CROWNS BARBER OF THE YEAR

A freshly renovated space across two ﬂoors, Essex barber shop Eighty8 is housed in a vibrant, contemporary space designed by Art by H. There’s a real gallery vibe, with the shop hosting abstract art against black-tiled frames, neon signage and MC Escher-inspired tiled walls. Against the simple and modernist black surfaces you’ll ﬁnd Takara Belmont furniture – and Eighty8 will also be home to a bespoke training facility.

56%

Jay Kizito Byrne of Dog House Barbers in Birmingham (pictured) is the BBA British Barber of the Year, following a live ﬁnal held in a boxing ring at Barber UK at the NEC. He wins the BBA belt and takes away prize money of £2,000 as well as £500-worth of BBA grooming products. “I felt a sense of relief after coming so close last year,” said Jay. “I wasn’t leaving without that belt!”

PRIME NUMBERS

supported by

OF UK WOMEN have visited a barber shop at some point in the past two years, compared with 32 per cent of women admitting to visiting a barber shop in the previous two years. New research carried out by The Bluebeards Revenge has discovered that more women are visiting barber shops than ever before. Demands for much shorter, sharper hair styles is one of the reasons given for this rise, with 81 per cent of women who visited a barber shop in the past 24 months citing edgier cuts as reasons for their regular appointments. Meanwhile, a whopping 61 per cent stated the excessive costs of a hair salon as a key reason for switching to a barber.

Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk Mister Quarterly 05

004-005_MrQ The Measure.indd 2

22/06/2018 16:36

HAIR / SKIN / SHAVE #LIFELIVEDTRUE BAXTEROFCALIFORNIA.COM @BAXTEROFCA

MY SO CAL LIFE EMPOWER YOUR CLIENTS TO MAKE THEIR UNIQUE MARK ON THE WORLD WITH BAXTER OF CALIFORNIA – THE LIFESTYLE BRAND YOU NEED TO TAP INTO THE GROWING MILLENNIAL MARKET

Los Angeles is a place for dreamers – people whose identities have been formed by their instincts, their journeys and the city they call home. The City of Angels offers a way of life few would turn down: sun-baked days riding the waves and balmy nights relaxing on rooftop terraces while the city twinkles below you. What if you could bring some of that So Cal vibe into your salon or barber shop? Baxter of California is the epitome of living the LA dream and the brand is bringing the city’s spirit and culture straight to the UK so that you can brighten up your clients’ days

with a range of hair, shave, skin, body and lifestyle products. When it comes to purchasing power, millennials hold the key and Baxter of California is your way to appeal to this group, who are more likely to buy into a lifestyle than a one-dimensional brand. But we don’t just want to tell you what Baxter of California is all about, we want to show you. The ‘Life Lived True’ campaign showcases the spirit of Baxter of California, and the men it portrays are true Angelenos who have incorporated Baxter’s grooming essentials into their daily lives.

MEET TODD Todd lives in Venice Beach where he teaches surf lessons and fire dancing. His day starts with a morning surf session and some beard maintenance, combing through Grooming Cream to keep it smooth and soft. After his day in the ocean, Todd uses Grooming Cream on his tapered undercut to add moisture back in and to keep his waves weightless. He also uses Clay Effect Style Spray to add hold, texture and definition to his long hairstyle.

MEET HENRY Henry lives in Korea Town and teaches skate school. His other hobbies include painting and fishing. Already a selfprofessed ‘boss’, he is working to one day become a chief executive. For his Dreaded Pompadour hairstyle, Henry uses his own dreads to tie up the top and smooths both the dreads and his hairline with Soft Water Pomade. This controls frizz and adds shine. He uses Hydro Salve Hand Cream throughout the day to keep his hard-working hands soft and supple. 08 Mister Quarterly

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22/06/2018 16:37

PROMO

MEET AUSTIN Austin is into extreme sports, including surfing, skating and snowboarding, and is a huge fan of chick flicks. Like Austin, his hard part fade is anything but boring. To style this haircut he uses Clay Pomade when his hair is towel dried and combs it into place. Austin also uses the revitalising Shave Tonic to help maintain healthy skin and freshens up with the Alcohol and Aluminium Free Deodorant. The formula tackles odour as it detoxifies and conditions the skin.

MEET GIL Gilâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s morning ritual starts with a shower and hot tea. He loves food, fashion and women. His Viking hairstyle shows he isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t a man-bun sort of guy. In the shower, Gil uses the moisturising Italian Lime & Pomegranate Cleansing Bar and washes his hair using Daily Fortifying Shampoo. After towel-drying his hair, Gil applies Hard Water Pomade for shine and all-day control.

Help clients to lead a life lived true with Baxter of California. To find out more and to become a stockist, visit baxterofcalifornia.com/contact Mister Quarterly 09

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22/06/2018 16:38

ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP R+Co’s new Waterfall Moisture + Shine lotion delivers hydration without excess weight, ideal for ﬁne hair. Use on wet or dry hair to tame ﬂyaways and moisturise ends.

RRP £25 01442 248104 randco.com

The Bluebeards Revenge Hair Gel is a multipurpose wonder and 50p from each tub sold is donated to The Lions Barber Collective.

The new Supra ZR II clipper from Andis now has a removable battery pack and 50 per cent more run time.

£255 01635 279824 andis.com

RRP £9.99 bluebeards-revenge.co.uk

TIGI Bed Head for Men has three new products, Dense Up Style Building Shampoo, Press Up Body Building Styling Foam and Thick-Up Line Grooming Cream.

RRP £12.95 020 7845 6333 fudgeprofessional. com

RRP £10.50

September brings the BaByliss PRO cordless Super Motor Clipper, with Japanese steel blades and a high torque pivot motor.

£135

RRP £12.99 01392 365177 reuzel.co.uk

bedheadformen.com

0370 5133191 babylisspro .co.uk

Tone and tighten shaved skin with Astringent Foam from Reuzel. It blends witch hazel, rosemary and aloe vera to moisturise and soothe.

From short, sculpted styles to messy mid-lengths, the new Fudge Professional Mineral Paste has a salt-infused formula for a tactile, hydrated hold that lasts all day.

Love that So Cal vibe? Engineered in the US, the WAHL Now’s your chance to Limited Edition Cordless Magic bring a bit of it to your shop Clip features a ‘stagger with Baxter of California. The tooth’ blade for a Los Angeles brand does it all, from smoother cut. hair and shaving to skin, body £104.99 and lifestyle. wahl.co.uk

RRP from £9 baxterofcalifornia. com

10 Mister Quarterly

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22/06/2018 16:39

PROMO

STRONG STUFF IT’S TIME TO TAKE CONTROL, WITH TIGI BED HEAD FOR MEN

Male grooming habits are changing. Men are becoming more experimental with their style, customising longer looks to suit their daily activities, whether that’s going to the gym or a day at the ofﬁce. TIGI Bed Head for Men has three new products that are perfect for the creation of fuller-looking styles and ideal for men with ﬁne hair needing texture and control without weight. The clever ingredient in these three products is caffeine, known for its stimulating properties, as well as key vitamins, biotin and niacin for healthy hair.

DENSE UP STYLE BUILDING SHAMPOO

PRESS UP BODY BUILDING STYLING FOAM

THICK-UP LINE GROOMING CREAM

This shampoo is powered by Bed Head for Men Uploader Technology to create lift, texture and control without the ‘fluffiness’ men hate about freshly washed hair. The technology creates flexible bonds between hair fibres to style as it’s washed. If hair starts to flop, clients just push it back and bonds are reactivated.

Men’s ranges don’t often include a foam or mousse, but the experts at TIGI predict that this will soon become an essential for men with ﬁne hair. This styling foam helps build body, lasting up to 24 hours. Providing texture, control and a weightless hold, it makes even freshly washed hair easy to style.

This cream gives flexible hold with a natural finish, helping build body, texture and control without adding weight. It features Bed Head for Men Uploader Technology to create flexible bonds between the hair fibres, guaranteeing great lift and longevity – perfect for men with curly or wavy hair.

To achieve the best results with the new Bed Head for Men products, connect with TIGI Education support for new courses on the cuts and products, as well as step-by-steps for you and your client. Download the TIGI App 24/7 for always-on education

For more information, visit bedheadformen.com. Follow on Twitter @tigipro, Instagram @tigiprofessional, @bedheadbytigi, and Facebook TigiProfessional and BedHeadbyTIGI Mister Quarterly 11

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22/06/2018 16:41

#TRENDING

DRIVING FORCE

FROM THE GREAT OUTDOORS TO ITALO DISCO AND ICONIC MULLETS, MR Q REPORTS BACK FROM SOME OF THE STANDOUT SHOWS AT LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S S/S19

CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN Brendan O’Sullivan for British Hair Images courtesy of American Crew, British Hair, Fudge Professional and R+Co

Raeburn’s React Now collection was a call to action to pay attention to our changing society and environment. In keeping with this theme, Brendan O’Sullivan for British Hair and his creative team kept the hair clean and back from the face, then gelled to achieve a wet look. Coloured stripes were added in silver, white and red, tying into tones within the collection.

WOOD WOOD

Jan Przemyk for AOFM using R+Co

ICEBERG

John Vial for American Crew John Vial is making mullets mainstream once more with his take on the iconic ’80s look for Iceberg. The collection fused a love of Formula One and Italo disco with dance, football and London attitude – quite the mix. It was also an ode to the past with one eye on the future; something the hair summed up nicely in its mix of ’80s skinheads and point cut, disconnected mullets. To help him create the looks, John Vial had on hand American Crew’s Alternator, Spray Gel and Tech Series Flexible Hold Mousse. Stay cool.

‘The Outside’ was the title of the latest show from the Danish design duo. “We created a hair texture that reflected being caught in the rain and leaving your hair to dry without touching it, so there was a lot of movement but little volume,” said Jan Przemyk. Hair was dampened with R+Co One Prep Spray, then a misting of R+Co Rockaway Salt Spray or Spiritualized Dry Shampoo Mist. Looks were finished with the R+Co Trophy Shine + Texture Spray.

LIAM HODGES

Matt Mulhall for Fudge Professional Tattooed hillbillies had made it in Sin City at Liam Hodges, where models were given a messed-up mullet and a flash-trash attitude. To make the men look like they’d just emerged after a heavy night in Vegas, lead stylist Matt Mulhall misted hair then applied a generous amount of Fudge Professional Vinyl Pomade from the roots through to the ends. Next, he pulled the hair back using palms to flatten. Sides were secured with barrettes and Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra hairspray.

12 Mister Quarterly

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26/06/2018 16:45

ESSENTIAL MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH

PICKING MY FAVOURITE AMERICAN CREW PRODUCTS FROM SUCH AN EXTENSIVE RANGE IS ALWAYS DIFFICULT, BUT I MUST SAY MY WINNING COMBO RIGHT NOW IS THE BOOST POWDER TEAMED WITH THE CREAM POMADE. I FEEL THE BOOST POWDER IS FAR MORE DIVERSE THAN OTHER POWDERS AND CAN BE WORKED INTO THE ROOT FOR STYLING, BUT ALSO FOR FINISHING LOOKS. THE NEW CREAM POMADE IS A GREAT ALTERNATIVE TO CLASSIC WATER OR GREASE-BASED POMADES

COLIN PETRIE, HARD GRIND

Get the look Sam Wall (@mrsamwall), UK winner of American Crew’s AllStar Challenge, created and shot with brand founder David Raccuglia. Sam used American Crew Light Hold Texture Lotion to wet hair before cutting the sides and back, and connecting the top using a feathered razor. Hair was blow-dried using Control Foam, before applying Boost Spray into the roots and ﬁnishing with Grooming Cream.

#MrQCrewCloseUp

AMERICAN CREW ON THE ROAD WITH HARLEY-DAVIDSON AND THE WINNER IS… The global winner of the American Crew AllStar Challenge is Vitaly Pimenov from Russia! He was chosen from 15 ﬁnalists in the annual competition that recognises the best men’s hair stylists. The award and prize of $10,000 was presented by David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew, pictured above left with Vitaly.

It’s a match made in heaven – an iconic motorcycle brand and a world-renowned men’s hair brand have come together to celebrate their shared heritage. American Crew has announced it’s working with Harley-Davidson to craft unique experiences and events for consumers worldwide. “This collaboration with Harley-Davidson is a milestone in the life

of American Crew,” said David Raccuglia, founder of American Crew. “We’re looking forward to connecting the brands through our shared values of freedom and selfexpression.” To kick-start the partnership, American Crew and Harley-Davidson shot an advertising campaign, Style for the Road, in Marfa, an art hub in Texas. A short ﬁlm has also been produced.

Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com

AmericanCrewUK Mister Quarterly 13

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Y T I L A QU ANTITY

not QU

MMON E SECOND MOST CO TH E AR S OP SH ER ION? BOOMING AND BARB USE FOR CELEBRAT CA A MALE GROOMING IS L AL IT IS T BU INGS – HIGH STREET OPEN

Ruffians’ Andrew Cannon. The difference between the pre-boom landscape and the current high street is enormous – “It’s not much of a comparison at all. We’ve left our comfort zone,” Matt noted. “But where is the standard?” According to research conducted by Armour to Barber (a skills organisation for ex-servicemen) and grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge, 83 per cent of those working in the industry believe that the sector will continue to flourish. However, 63 per cent of the 1,001 respondents did not believe that the industry currently has enough quality barbers to cope with rising consumer demand. A mixture of reasons as to this squeeze were identified, such as the ‘conveyor belt’ system of too much pressure to complete cuts quickly (64 per cent of respondents) and inadequate training by colleges (33 per cent). This worries Tom Chapman the most. “There are independent barbering academies where you can train 12 weeks to the shop floor,” he says. Mark adds: “It’s not necessarily a lack of talent, but maybe they’re not focusing on barbering as a craft. They’re just looking at it solely as a business opportunity.

On the plus side there are more people coming into the industry, talented people, who are taking it seriously. On the other there are those who are just looking to capitalise on a trend and make a quick buck.” When it comes to something as personal as barbering, why is there this ‘conveyor belt’ approach? At what point did ‘under 10 minutes’ become the right amount of time for a personalised cut or style? Looking to make real change to the situation is the British Barbers’ Association, which announced in April that it had been chosen SliderCuts (inset) and with boxer Anthony Joshua

With an influx of new barber shops opening on high streets up and down the country, there have been rumblings of dissent in the barber community. Not, as you might imagine, about the hike in competition. Instead, the artists and craftsmen of the trade are worried about a dilution of key skills and talents, resulting in more dissatisfied customers and a distrust for the profession. “There are a lot more shops popping up, you see it all the time,” says Mark Maciver, AKA SliderCuts. “It’s safe to assume the quality of work is not consistent.” It’s a topic that sparked real debate during the men’s grooming panel at Salon Smart. The panel, featuring Most Wanted 2017 Male Grooming Specialist Jonathan Andrew, Matt Robinson of Mister Robinson’s Barbershop, the Lions Barber Collective’s founder Tom Chapman and

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Jim Shaw

Ruffians Jonny Long

SliderCuts (inset) and with boxer Anthony Joshua

to lead the global alliance for Barbering and Men’s Grooming standards. The Men’s Global Grooming Alliance is a mix of barbering associations and leading male grooming companies from countries such as Australia, Canada, India, New Zealand, South Korea and the US – a move which implies that these concerns are widespread. The initiative aims to encourage the sharing of standards, updates on grooming trends, the latest technical guidance and codes of good practice. While many shops have their own niche and appeal, for the uninitiated it might be hard to discern what constitutes a quality establishment – especially if a customer is new to the area and hasn’t yet found ‘The One’. Jim Shaw from essensuals is realistic: “I don’t think this is something we can change, but what we can do is make sure we

continue to offer an experience instead of just a haircut, that we always have the latest and most professional products to help our clients recreate their style at home, and to ensure stylists are trained to the highest standards.” Barber shops are more than just a place to get a haircut. They are a meeting place, a space for sharing ideas and thoughts that will maybe never go beyond the chair. “Boosting confidence and competence in our barbers and creating a space where our clients feel welcome, relaxed and genuinely valued has been really important to us,” Natalie Angold at Ruffians Shoreditch explains. “We believe that you should build a clientele that grows organically rather than churning out the cuts like a conveyer belt and relying

on walk-ins. Otherwise it suppresses the morale and creativity of our barbers, but these small changes mean having happy customers and happy barbers.” The past decade has seen an unprecedented rise in men’s grooming, with no sign of slowing down – in 2017, barbering was the fastestgrowing profession in the US, according to Forbes. So how should barbers be staying ahead of the curve? The answer, inevitably, comes down to training and recruitment. Finding those who have the drive, the potential and – importantly – the patience to make an excellent barber proves to be the biggest challenge. Jonny Long from Lockonego, is cautiously optimistic: “I feel that once things settle down the cream will rise and the rest will fall. Regulation is something that has been spoken about for years and I feel that the industry does well in regulating itself, so natural order will take place,” he says. “Education is out there; it’s a case of the salon owners and the barbers themselves getting the training to master the trade that can make you a good living if done right.” Corrado Tevere at Radio Hair, which includes a men’s grooming branch called Manifesto, agrees that it’s down to the owners: “They should keep the quality control, and make sure staff are consistently trained.” There has been enormous growth and exposure of barbering recently, and new challenges to face up to. It’s now a fashionable career choice, but those in it for the lifestyle alone will soon find themselves staring down the barrel of uncompromising standards from their peers. Mister Quarterly 15

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T O T A L U T I L I T Y BEGINNING A NEW CHAPTER AS CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF EIGHTY8, JOEY POWER LAUDS SUITABILITY, EXPRESSION AND INDIVIDUALITY WITH HIS NEW COLLECTION ‘UTILITY’ PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW GILBERT

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Mister Quarterly 17

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Hair by Joey Power. Colour by Andrea Reiss, assisted by Dammy Ogunleye courtesy of Ena Salon. Make-up by Ciara McCarthy. Clothing by Kervin Marc. Styling by Joey Power, assisted by Georgina Gilbert. Production by AKAcreate

SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION HARD GRIND

HAIRCUTS, COFFEE AND APPAREL – THESE SCOTTISH BARBERS OFFER SO MUCH MORE THAN A SHORT BACK AND SIDES Barbering wasn’t always on the cards for Colin Petrie but, luckily for us, he discovered his natural flair for the profession while travelling the world as a musician. “When we were on tour in Canada and Japan we were away from home for a long time and didn’t know any salons so I started cutting hair,” he explains. Fusing together his new-found talent with experience in streetwear retail, he opened Hard Grind in Dundee. “I created a lifestyle store where you could shop for apparel, get coffee or a milkshake and get a haircut. It’s like a little shopping mall experience but honed for a certain kind of style.” And within just six months, Colin had opened a second shop in Aberdeen. Hard Grind’s appeal is down to its authenticity and unique voice, which resonates with customers. “We are very real,” says Colin. “The art is from my own collection. The jukebox is from my house and there are a couple of things here from my old kitchen. If I was going to live and breathe the shop, I wanted it to be my home from home.” And despite phenomenal popularity, Colin is conscious that he needs to hold on to the personal feel that resonates with Hard Grind’s customers. “Big investors came in very quickly and wanted to franchise. I wouldn’t say I am a control freak but I’m very passionate about the brand and I don’t chase money, it’s not what drives me. I think if you build something real and true, people will respond to that.” Now Colin has been announced as a member of American Crew’s Elite Team, a partnership that couldn’t be more perfect. “American Crew blew my mind. It’s at the forefront of barbering and has just announced a big campaign with Harley-Davidson, which is so up my street,” he laughs. 18 Mister Quarterly

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"It's me!"

OUR FEATURED ARTIST IN JULY IS ASHLEIGH HODGES

The former It List It Girl on her love of music and books, how she’s pushing her avant-garde skills and who’s joining her for a dinner party…

". . and thuenrn!" it's our t

OUR FEATURED ARTISTS IN AUGUST ARE RANKIN AND NICK IRWIN Rankin, the legendary photographer, shares his insight on how to take a perfect portrait, and we explore his enduring creative relationship with session stylist, Nick Irwin

HEAD ONLINE NOW! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION MrQOBC.indd 1

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THE BIG IDEA

GHD X LULU GUINNESS

BRITISH STYLE ICONS Lulu Guinness and ghd have teamed up to battle breast cancer. Adding to the brand’s timehonoured tradition of support, the ghd x Lulu Guinness collection features Lulu’s iconic lip print on the ghd gold styler and ghd air hairdryer, with £10 from every purchase going straight to Breast Cancer Now. In the past 14 years ghd collaborations with global breast cancer charities have raised more than £10 million. “I spent a lot of time looking at different pink effects,” Lulu told Creative HEAD exclusively. “I just wanted something subtle – not what I’m usually known for! – and pretty. Making something hard, like a styler, into something soft was the challenge. This way you can own something pretty and still give back to Breast Cancer Now. Everyone does their own bit – I just want to bring something which distracts you if you’re going through a hard time, to bring a moment of joy when you need it.” And for every pouting selfie posted on Instagram with #KissThisCancer, tagging @ghdhair and @breastcancernow, ghd will donate an additional £1. Pucker up!

CREATIVE HEAD

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26/06/2018 16:06

Ready for your close-up? Empower your clients and protect their tresses for picture-perfect blonde results with new Série Expert Blondifier by L’Oréal Professionnel

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

SUMMER IS WHEN blondes reign supreme. Whether it is golden, sun-kissed highlights, ash tones or a cool platinum, blondes come into their own as the weather heats up. However, the sun can dry out lighter strands faster than a British heatwave disappears. Throughout summer, blondes need to keep their hair well-maintained to prevent colour fading, dryness and lack of shine (not to mention the dreaded brassy tone blondes are prone to). If your blonde clients have concerns about losing colour radiance and dullness, L’Oréal Professionnel has a solution to help your clients empower and protect their blonde: new Série Expert Blondifier. A bespoke colour care solution for all blondes that launches in August, Blondifier provides in-salon solutions for photo-ready blondes and an aftercare range to help clients keep their blonde looking great all summer long.

#EMPOWERYOURBLONDE

IN THE SALON

AT HOME

The Blondifier range is set to become every blonde’s new best friend. Featuring new pigment boosters, it enables you to give your clients the shade of blonde they’ve been dreaming about. For the cool, light blonde, use the Cool Blonde Perfector, which contains purple pigments to neutralise undesired yellow undertones. For the warmer blonde client, use the Sun-Kissed Blonde Perfector, which contains blue pigments to neutralise undesired copper undertones.

Formulated with Açaí Polyphenol, a superfood antioxidant present in the açaí berry, the targeted formulation helps revive blonde hair and add shine. The new Série Expert Blondifier haircare range is perfect for those who need to give their hair that extra TLC (so all blondes, then!). The Cool Shampoo is enriched with violet brightening pigments to neutralise yellow tones and leave hair radiant. It is best for cool blondes to help their colour last longer. The Gloss Shampoo is for all blondes and gently cleanses the hair, emphasising blonde hair’s multi-dimensional shine. It also provides nourishment and helps smooth damaged strands. For extra conditioning and nourishment, recommend that clients with fine hair use the conditioner at every wash and the masque as a once-a-week treatment, the masque is also the perfect conditioner for clients with thick hair.

GIVE YOUR CLIENT THE PERFECT BLONDE

GIVE CLIENTS A BLONDE POWER SERVICE For a regular, affordable service, use a Blondifier booster with Blondifier masque. Make it bespoke by mixing the booster with Powermix Vitamino for an instant boost of colour radiance, or mix with Powermix Repair to help repair damaged hair.

DISCOVER THE CARE AT HOME RANGE

For more information, speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0800 0304034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk. #EMPOWERYOURBLONDE CREATIVE HEAD

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ALL YOU NEED FOR HEALTHY HAIR IT BEGINS WITH A BLOW-DRY AND ENDS WITH HEALTHY HAIR – EVERY TIME. HOW? IT’S ALL IN THE HAIRBRUSH…

WHEN THE PRESSURE’S ON and you’ve got to deliver a fabulous blow-dry, there’s only one brush you’ll ever need – Tangle Teezer. The secret to a good blow-dry lies in the hairbrush you use. Tangle Teezer’s founder, Shaun Pulfrey, has spent years working in busy salons, so he knows exactly what stylists are up against every day. This is why he created a range of blow-drying tools to help you master any look, quickly and effortlessly. Designed to work with low-heat hairdryers, Tangle Teezer brushes will not only leave clients with fabulouslooking hair, but their strands will be in much better condition, too – guaranteeing they will come back time and again. There are two types of Blow-Styling Tools you need in your kit bag arsenal: The Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool, for a sleek finish with natural volume, movement and shine; and The Blow-Styling Round Tool, for volume and root lift, with bounce and shine. Tangle Teezer Blow-Styling tools will help you to: • Increase the speed of your blow-dry as the tools help you take hair from wet to dry faster than ever, thanks to the bottle-shaped teeth that extract water quickly. • Give clients a healthier blow-dry as you use the hairbrushes with your hairdryer on a lower heat setting and lower speed, so the hair isn’t heat damaged. • Become an expert in blow-drying. Tangle Teezer blow-drys are like haircuts and the brand’s salon masterclasses teach you all the techniques to ace it. • Build confidence. No matter what client walks through the door, you’ll feel confident tackling all hair types.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

YOUR STEPS TO SMOOTHER HAIR

STEP 1: DETANGLING

STEP 2: SECTIONING

STEP 3: PICK UP AT THE ROOT

STEP 4: DRYING ROOTS TO MID-LENGTHS

Gently towel-dry the hair, blotting rather than rubbing. Use the Tangle Teezer Salon Elite brush at the ends and work your way up to the roots.

Place the Blow-Styling Tool at the root and pick up the section of hair, distributing it evenly through the tool.

Start at the nape and create horseshoe blow-drying sections, which measure the width of the Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool.

Hold a hairdryer a few inches away from the hair and follow it as it’s drawn through the teeth of the brush.

N’S SHAUTIP! blast TOnPo need teoat and ill

yw ull h re’s The hair at f blow-dr leeker r e u h r, s if t o e Y h t . d air oo speeuch sm to the h ed e r p m e s d e b kin the and lower heat you nd the a

STEP 5: DRYING THE ENDS

Continue to follow the hair with the Blow-Styling Smoothing Tool through to the ends, creating some tension to smooth flyaways.

STEP 6: VOLUMISING CROWN For smooth, sleek hair with root lift, pick the hair up at the crown at a 45-degree angle and follow the shape of the head.

THE FINISHED LOOK! Big, bouncy and voluminous hair with plenty of movement.

For more styling masterclasses from Tangle Teezer, call 020 7738 4458 or email sales@tangleteezer.com

CREATIVE HEAD

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22/06/2018 13:30

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Millennials? SO last century. Meet Generation Z' These techsavvy, super-stimulated individualists represent the latest generation of stylists. Born in the mid-1990s and having lived the bulk of their lives online, we cut through the stereotypes to talk to the people behind the label - young hairdressers forging their own unique paths...

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G E N E R AT I O N Z

CREATIVE HEAD MEETS Gen Z

In a quiet corner of East London we caught up with five Gen Z-ers - Darcie Harvey (Brooks & Brooks), Harry Wiffen (Trevor Sorbie), Sam william Hill (Cut & Grind), Tegan Robertson (Not Another Salon) and Tom Dodd (Spirit Hair Design) - to discuss their careers, the attitudes of older stylists and their thoughts about what it takes to make it today CREATIVE HEAD: How did you get into hairdressing? TEGAN ROBERTSON: I never really thought of hairdressing as a career. I think when you’re a creative type you’re pushed down certain paths at school – I was pushed into art, but then I found my way into fashion. I ended up going to university, hated it, got kicked out, and was like ‘what do I do with my life now?!’ But then I was watching my favourite film, The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, and noticed something. The reason I wanted to get into fashion was because my dream, from the age of about 10 years old, was to design drag queen costumes – but this time I started looking at the wigs and thought “Oh my gosh, their wigs are just as amazing… maybe I could do that?” It was a lightbulb moment. So, the next day I called up my favourite salon in London and got a job there the next week! My parents were just happy that I had a job and a potential career at this point. They are both very hands-on people – I’m from Zimbabwe and I think it’s a very African thing – and so they’ve always respected people who have a trade and work hard. HARRY WIFFEN: When I left school I didn’t have a clue what I wanted to do. I don’t feel like they really give you the option of doing hairdressing or really talk about it as much as other careers. Luckily, my brother was doing a hairdressing course at the time and he said I should give it a go. I went to college, hated it, quit (well, got kicked out, too!) and eventually moved to London. I finally got into a good salon where they are creative and I found my feet. SAM WILLIAM HILL: I used to hate getting my hair cut as a

CREATIVE HEAD

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kid. I always kicked off! One day, as a teen, I passed this barber shop in Brighton where people were skating outside and playing cool music. I went inside and had a haircut and it was a really nice experience. So I thought: ‘Right, they’re wearing what they want, doing what they want, listening to what they want, I’ll give it a go.’ So I started looking into classic haircuts and decided that I wanted to do that. DARCIE HARVEY: With school I did really well grades-wise, so my mum wanted me to go to university. She was always saying ‘You can’t do hairdressing,’ even though I really wanted to. I’d read a newspaper article about how hairdressers were the happiest employees, and I just wanted to be happy in my career. So my mum said to me: ‘If you go to sixth form, work on your days off for a year, then I’ll let you do hairdressing.’ I went to school three days a week and then every day off and after school, I worked at a salon. I didn’t actually have a very nice experience there, so it did make me wonder if I actually wanted to be a hairdresser. Then my own hairstylist, one of the creative directors at a Toni&Guy salon, told me that I should go to a salon in central London, where it’s cooler and edgier, as I would enjoy it a lot more. If I’d have gone to university, I was looking at sociology, but hairdressing is people-focused and you can work your way up the ladder and get rewarded, which makes you happy. And my goal was always just to be happy. TOM DODD: I actually started out as a dog groomer – which is no reflection of my clients now! I got good grades at school too, but decided to go to animal college and

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study animal care, behaviour, and grooming. But I wasn’t obsessed with it, and I began second-guessing myself. I did work as a dog groomer for about a year and a half once I’d got the qualifications, but I wasn’t enthusiastic. I’d had enough of being pooed on, scratched and bitten, so I just quit. I was probably unemployed for about a month and a half and I was really stuck. It was my mum who said that I could be good at hairdressing because I’m very social; I love talking to people and making them feel good. So I went to a salon for a trial to see if I’d like it. I absolutely fell in love with it – completely head over heels for hairdressing. CH: Many of you did not enjoy college, is there anything the industry can do to improve this? TR: I feel we really need to modernise the training process. There’s still a huge hierarchy in salons and far too often assistants are seen simply as cleaners. It’s a really oldfashioned way of training, and I think people need to see assistants for what they are: trainee hairdressers.

HW: While there are a few people who have made it through being self-taught, it’s so frustrating to see people who think they can just teach themselves and be okay at it too. Education about hair needs to be better. People work hard to get what they want, pushing themselves and constantly working to be where they want to be. It’s frustrating to feel like people look down on you, to think that hair’s just a basic career. There should be more young people teaching hairdressing as well. Sometimes at colleges, there are old people who are completely stuck in their ways. It would be worth bringing in new people who are actually doing new things. It’s an innovative industry and things are changing all the time. DH: It’s more of a social thing. I still have to explain what I do to people. When I say ‘I’m a hairdresser,’ they sort of go ‘Oh, alright’ because they think you just cut hair, when actually I do shoots, I do shows, I write articles, I work with celebrities. There’s just so much more to it.

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CH: Have you had any regrets about choosing to become a hairdresser? TD: In the first salon I worked at it was very homely and I made friends for life. But then I went to another, less friendly salon. I got so distraught it almost made me want to give up. I wasn’t sure if I wanted to be in a job that made me feel that bad! I had to take myself out of there and take a couple of months off to decide if this was really what I wanted to do, but when I came back it all clicked again. It gave me the confidence to feel good about my goals. It’s important to build people up rather than drag them down or pit them against each other. DH: My only regret would be the age I started – I wish I’d started at 16, straight from school. From a money perspective, you can be paid an apprentice’s salary at 16 and you can survive on that for four years, but when you’re in your twenties and you’re training for that long and not getting paid much money, it can be quite difficult! SWH: I don’t have any regrets really. I once went into a shop where it was obvious they felt they could get away with

paying people next to nothing while they were training. Some salons can take advantage of you because you want to be there. HW: I would say it would be going to college at 16. I feel like it was a waste of time and I didn’t know that I could just go straight into a salon – a good salon – and be trained by them. I could have started sooner and been a stylist by

Sophia Hilton once told me she always knew she'd be a successful hairdresser because she put the same amount of effort into scrubbing the skirting boards as she did a blow-dry" Darcie harvey

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#GenerationZ

now, but instead I’m just coming to the end of my training. I wasted time being in a place where I wasn’t taught properly, or listened to or understood. CH: Now that you’re on the shop floor, what has been the most difficult part of the journey to becoming a trainee? TR: There’s a lot of things that can be difficult to deal with. It’s slow, you work like a dog and you can get paid terribly. However, if you stick with it long enough, a whole lot of amazing opportunities will come your way. DH: I think you have to do those more menial jobs to be a good stylist. There’s always going to be a day where you don’t want to do something, or have an awful client, or someone will be really rude to you backstage at a show – you have to go through that to be able to handle anything. It’s a mentality thing, too; you have to do rubbish jobs to make you a hard worker. Sophia Hilton once told me she always knew she’d be a successful hairdresser because she put the same amount of effort into scrubbing the skirting boards as she did a blow-dry.

CH: Have you seen other young staﬀ lose faith in hairdressing, and do you feel like there’s quite a high turnover at the moment? SWH: All day long people come into the barber shop and say ‘I want to do this!’ because it’s cool; but you soon see those people leave the industry because they don’t actually like what they do. HW: I’ve been at Trevor Sorbie for two-and-a-half years and there’s only three of us who made it all the way through, out of about 30 people. A lot of them came into hairdressing thinking it would be an easy career, but if you’re in the right place then it is hard and there is a lot of pressure. People last maybe six to eight months, until they realise how long it’s actually going to take; it’s not something you can do in a few weeks. TH: Deﬁnitely. Some people just look at the industry and think it’s easy, that it’ll be a sweet ride, just a 9 to 5 and that’s it. It’s not like that at all.

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All day long people come into the barber shop and say 'I want to do this!' because it's cool; but you soon see those people leave the industry because they don't actually like what they do" sam william hill TR: I think it’s also really hard to stay motivated and inspired when so often you’re not always treated in the best way. DH: Part of it is that people can’t take criticism on the chin. You do get knocked down quite a lot, particularly if you’re in a good salon – you’ll be told your work is no good. When you start your apprenticeship, you’re quite naïve so you’re going to make a lot of mistakes, but it moulds you as a person. People always say your salon is your second family because they bring you up so much and make you better – not just as a hairdresser, but personally.

SWH: In barbering, It’s more an issue of money making people leave. When you start out you’re probably only earning about £600 a month. CH: What advice would you give to managers and salon owners reading this? TD: Just be nice. It’s good to be strict, to have boundaries and high standards, but at the same time you need to nurture. I think a lot of people just remain uninvolved and give orders, but if you’ve got the time, spend it going through things with younger staff and help them to feel conﬁdent. Obviously, you don’t want them to become big-headed, but you want them to be conﬁdent enough to do their job well and enjoy it. TR: Make sure your staff are expressing themselves. Never limit their creativity and always treat them with respect.

now gen z-ers, it's your turn...

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#GenerationZ

DARCIE HARVEY

NAMED THE RISING STAR AT THE IT LIST AWARDS 2017, DARCIE HARVEY LIVES AND BREATHES HAIRDRESSING. THE BROOKS & BROOKS ASSISTANT STYLIST IS DETERMINED TO MAKE HER MARK IN THE INDUSTRY “WHEN I STARTED hairdressing I wanted to do everything before knowing how to do it. And unfortunately, that is exactly what I did. I was always running before I could walk – or even crawl for that matter. I wanted to assist on all the shoots, help out at all the shows, but I had zero experience. So I knew I had to gain it. “Only a couple of months into training I gained contacts with photographers, make-up artists, stylists and models and started test shooting… before even knowing how to blow-dry. You can imagine just how those pictures turned out! It was a huge learning curve each time. With no knowledge, just hunger, I gradually gained experience, which then gave me knowledge, and led to me eventually getting the assisting opportunities I craved. I am privileged enough to work for Brooks & Brooks, where the opportunities for creative work are endless, but the best advice I have been given is to ‘rein it in’. I cannot tell you how many times in my career so far I’ve been told that! I’ve now learned that less is more, simple is stunning, and if your work is well executed it will speak for itself. “I love being surrounded by such a diverse team, where no matter the job, there will always be someone to ask for help. The highlight of my career so far? The show work! I’ll never get tired of that buzz of adrenaline you get when you are onstage, showcasing something you have put your blood, sweat and tears into. And just the whole process – finding a model, working out a technique, practising, sticking with it, making it your own and creating something you are really proud of. Of course, every time I do a job, I look back and think of all the things I would do differently, but we are all our own worst critics. The most important part of this is learning, and every time you do something, the next time it will be better.”

2017

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HARRY WIFFEN

After nearly abandoning hairdressing at the age of 17, Essex boy Harry made a last ditch move to London and fell back in love with the industry thanks to an apprenticeship at Trevor Sorbie. Here's how he's working to make his boundary-breaking dreams a reality... “I WAS BORN and raised in Essex, and started a hairdressing apprenticeship at the age of 16 at a local hair salon. I then moved to London at 21 to fulfil my dream and train as a professional hair stylist – and I’ve literally just passed the vardering programme at Trevor Sorbie! Trust me when I say being an assistant is far from easy. It has lots of challenges as well as rewards. I was fortunate enough to assist at London Fashion Week, to travel to Madrid with Tom Connell to assist at Show Positivo, and to be the hair stylist for Quiz Clothing’s campaign shoot in Morocco. “Working in fast-paced environments like Fashion Week and at shows, it gets very intense. This is when the skills you’ve learnt throughout your training really come to practice. And the feeling you get when it’s over – seeing your team’s work presented live in front of an audience – is breath-taking. I have also worked alongside session stylist Adam Szabo for magazines such as Pop and Under The Influence. Experiences, opportunities and projects like these are the reason I love what I do. Getting to meet other industry professionals, travelling to new places and bringing new ideas to life is what really inspires me as a stylist. “Although the hair industry involves a lot of creativity,

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I still feel like there are a lot of stigmas that need to be broken. As a young, open-minded creative, I want to smash gender norms, mix cultures, break boundaries and change the industry’s idea of beauty standards. “One particular look I created that really shows these ambitions was for Trevor Sorbie’s Assistant competition back in November 2016. I decided to produce a 1920s finger wave with a twist. Instead of your classic wave on a female model, I decided to create the look on a young teenage boy who was wearing a black latex skirt, had black painted nails and was sporting classic eye make-up. My aim was to break every rule, and challenge stigma around gender non-conformity. I’m really inspired by London’s diverse street style. People who challenge societal norms in the way they present themselves have always intrigued me. Most of my inspiration comes from outside of the hair industry really, including varied types of music, photography and fashion. “My aim is to work with other young creatives who are less known and make images that cause a rift. I want to shake up the industry. I also want to inspire others to be more open-minded in their work. Oh, and to take over the world!”

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Harry Wiffen

#GenerationZ

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Sam William Hill

#GenerationZ

SAM william HILL SAM WILLIAM HILL IS A GLOWING EXAMPLE OF UP-ANDCOMING BARBERING TALENT. AFTER FINDING HIS FEET AT CUT & GRIND, THE MOST WANTED BEST NEW SALON OF 2017, HIS DILIGENCE AND DEDICATION THROUGHOUT HIS TRAINING AND BEYOND HAS SEEN HIM EARMARKED AS A FUTURE STAR “You’ve really got to love what you do to make it in barbering. It’s long hours and it kills your shoulders, and you’re always learning new skills along the way. For me, the beginning was hard as I was completely new to the industry and young, having just turned 17. No-one seemed to want to give me a chance to help out and cut hair in their shop. It took travelling from Cambridge to London every day on the train and working for free to get my skills and passion across to any potential employers. I met Hari Efthymiades [founder of Cut & Grind] and he gave me the opportunity to be who I am today; a barber doing a job I really enjoy. “One thing I quickly learned is customer service is everything in this industry. You need to give the best you can. I get to meet so many different customers – having conversations about their hair in a relaxed atmosphere, sharing a beer – and then providing a service they will come back for. It’s a great feeling when you see your customers out and about, and seeing them with a haircut you’ve gave them is my favourite part by far. Since I started working in the industry, I’ve got to know so many people that support each other in what we do, going to barbering events and meeting up to watch each other work. I’ve also been asked by a few new barbers to train them – it’s great to think that they like my work enough to want to learn from me. I have a few people that inspire me: my boss Hari, of course; Instagram sensation @andrewdoeshair; Shane Nesbitt, which goes without saying; and Josh Lamonaca. Other people that inspire me outside of the hair world are tattooists Chris O’Day, @louis.loveless and @traphousetattooer, and the artist Matt McCormick. Some I know quite well, and I have the utmost respect for all of them. “In the distant future I’d love to have my own barber shop. Travelling and working in new countries has to come first though, as there’s so much I want to experience. Social media really helps as I’m able to reach out to other barbers around the world, to see how they work and learn from them, too. I am very happy in my job and it’s great being able to earn money doing something I love. I feel I have earned respect working at Cut & Grind from the very beginning of the shop’s life to where it is today. Hari gave me the chance to prove what I could do when I was very young, and I really appreciate the opportunities that have come my way as a result of him seeing my potential.”

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#GenerationZ

TEGAN ROBERTSON

Green hair, a wild laugh and infectious enthusiasm... Tegan Robertson has all three. This stylist found her second home at Not Another Salon “NOT A LOT of people realise this but I’m originally from Zimbabwe. I moved here at the awkward age of 14. Looking at my picture, most of you probably can’t imagine someone like me growing up in an environment like that and let me tell you, it wasn’t easy. I’ve always been wildly creative and to say ‘eccentric’ is probably an understatement. I stood out, no-one really knew what to do with me and I didn’t really know what to do with myself. However, my parents have always been progressive and accepting, so they always encouraged me to be myself and be an individual. I grew up with the understanding that my uniqueness and my character made me special. I may not be good at spelling or running – or good at many things at all for that matter – but I always knew I was meant for great things. “The sad thing is that education on the whole is a one-size-fits-all system and for the most part, people like me get lost or pushed into corners. Having a wild imagination and, thanks to ADHD, an horrific attention-span, you can imagine I wasn’t top of the class. It’s much easier letting kids rot in the bottom set than it is to understand them. Not only that, but creative people like me have very few options at school or college. We’re pushed into an art class and if we can’t paint we’re pretty much useless. “This is how I fell into fashion. It was the only artistic

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alternative offered to people like me. To cut a long story short, I ended up being pushed into university and after two years I found myself kicked out, living at my parents’ house and at a loss with what to do. “One of the reasons I got into fashion was because I always wanted to make fabulous, over-the-top drag queen costumes. I applied to the coolest salon I could find and in two weeks I was working there. “All of a sudden I was an apprentice. The only thing I could liken it to is a tough fashion internship, similar to ones you see on TV shows. A modern apprenticeship in a good salon in London, for the most part, means a LOT of hard work. However, it is the most exciting and rewarding thing you can do. If there’s one word of advice I’d give to any young person in the industry, it would be not to wait around for opportunities. Most of the chances I’ve got have been by going to events and meeting people, even making friends on Instagram. “My dream would be to become a sort of hair personality, inspiring others with my passion. I think my big personality is one of my greatest gifts and I’d love to use it for something hair-related. I’m still not sure what that may be but I’m sure it’ll be fantastic.”

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TOM DODD

Spirit Hairdressing's Tom Dodd has music running through his veins, and hair at his very heart. With a clear focus on creating possibilities for the next generation of hairdressers, he outlines his plans to affect change with social media and a touch of Stevie Nicks... “I FEEL SO PROUD to be a part of this creative industry, where people can unleash their ideas. I have always been experimenting with creative ideas across fashion, music, art and hair. It really drives me to generate a vision, draw inspiration from everywhere, and finally create it. Experiencing that and seeing the results of that process from other people is what I love so much about hairdressing. “I also feel lucky to be building my career in the era of social media. There are so many platforms available to launch everyone’s work and it’s a great way for me to show my creations for the whole world to see. “I want to be an idol – for someone to look up to me and feel inspired when they see my work, that is my ultimate goal. I want to go into this industry with a fresh, new approach for the younger generations. To create innovative techniques and ideas that we can share and create from. I will not stop striving for this and pushing myself until the next generation are a powerhouse of talent and skill! “My role models are from all areas of the creative world, from hair to fashion and music. If I ever have a creative block or an issue with my visions, I’ll sit in a room, stick on some Lana Del Rey, Lady Gaga or Florence Welch and just immerse myself in their art. It really gives so much inspiration that I can bring into my own work. Another huge role model for me is John Galliano; his artistry in the fashion world is second

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to none and pushes me to think outside the box, to change things I wouldn’t dream of changing normally. “During my time in the ghd style squad, I worked on an incredible array of influence projects. These were created by the amazing Zoë Irwin, specifically to challenge our thinking and creative flow. Zoë has really broadened my thought processes when it comes to creating these different ideas for the projects; and has really built my confidence to go out and try things that I wouldn’t before. I managed to bag myself Fashion Week, platform work and much more; all thanks to ghd. I feel that the ghd style squad has really elevated me to a new level that I can take into my career. “Thanks to my love of music, it has always been a dream of mine to work with one of my many musical muses – Gaga, Lana, Florence, Marina Diamandis, or Stevie Nicks. To do their hair and create something based on our joint vision… well, I would I die a happy human!”

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#GenerationZ

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26/06/2018 15:29

SQUAD GOALS TIME TO SAY ‘SO LONG’ TO THE 2017/18 GHD STYLE SQUAD, BUT BEFORE THEY MOVE ON WE TAKE A LOOK AT ALL THEY’VE ACHIEVED IN THE PAST YEAR

IN AN INDUSTRY that’s all about new and next, a place on the ghd style squad is a sure-fire way of catapulting your career and making a name for yourself. The year-long programme for emerging hairdressing talent aims to help young stylists grow their skills in all aspects of the industry – from styling and product know-how to social media mastery and fashion history. The 2017/18 squad is currently preparing to don

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graduation gowns and head back out into the world, equipped with 12 months of experience, education and inspiration. Led by ghd education manager, Lorna Baker, and mentored by ghd UK brand ambassador, Zoë Irwin, the team has travelled the country, taken on new challenges and learned more than they could ever have dreamt possible. Highlights of the year have included furthering their knowledge with Zoë and being encouraged to

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

develop their creative processes through projects designed to help them research, study and dig deep into fashion influences. The team studied JeanMichel Basquiat and Patti Smith through books, movies, exhibitions and more. Work from these projects – and the rest of the team’s year – will be presented in an end-of-year exhibition at ghd HQ, where press and industry players will check out their creations and have the chance to chat with the squad members about their time with the programme. “We’re so proud of our style squad,” says team leader, Lorna Baker. “Every year, we’re excited to hunt out the most talented young hairdressers in the country and help them grow. This year’s team have been incredible. They’ve risen to every creative challenge and produced work that’s pushed boundaries and made them think – we can’t wait to see where they go next.”

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CONGRATULATIONS TO THE CLASS OF 2017/18… Jemma Clemas, Seckingtons, Northampton Essi Karjalainen, D&J Ambrose, London Isaac Verrall, Percy & Reed, London Nicholas Campbell, Taylor Taylor London Tom Dodd, Spirit Hair Design, Dorset Amy Russell, Russell & Brown, Liverpool Molly Gibson, Richards Hairdressing, Great Wyrley Kerry September, freelance MUA, London Sophie Jones, Charles Worthington, London Daniele de Santis, Headmasters, Wandsworth Nicole Meer, Rush, Horsham Emma Mason, The Gallery Hair Cutters, Norwich

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TALENT MEETS OPPORTUNITY STEP INTO THE SPOTLIGHT 2018/19 GHD STYLE SQUAD â&#x20AC;&#x201C; NOW IS YOUR MOMENT!

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AS ONE ghd style squad says goodbye, it’s time to welcome in a new team and get started on another year of education and opportunity. This year’s team was recruited through open auditions in Manchester and London, with hundreds of budding hair heroes heading through the doors to present their models. Each was tasked with producing a signature look that said something about their personal aesthetic. Judges included ghd brand ambassador Zoë Irwin; 2017 Fame Team member and ghd brand warrior, Ria Kulik; and ghd global head of education Jo Robertson; as well as members of the ghd education

team, Jordan Thomas; Amy Sontae; Dafydd Thomas; and Lorna Baker. Following the auditions, shortlisted stylists were asked to post an Instagram video of themselves recreating their favourite fashion week look, in order to check out their chops as camera-ready creatives and their industry know-how. So what’s in store for the new team? A year of money-can’t-buy opportunities, including priceless mentoring and training from Zoë Irwin and other industry leaders, opportunities to try new ghd products, fashion-led projects and many more amazing industry experiences.

SAY HELLO TO TEAM 2018/19 Claire McGowen, B-Fierce Hair and Makeup Studio, Glasgow Emma Collins, Melo Yelo, Hugh Campbell Hair Group, Limerick Izzy Twombley, H2O Hairdressing, Barrow Upon Soar Bekki Mooney, Star Salon, Liverpool Bradley Szekeres, Contemporary, Stokesley, Tom Beale-Burchell, Francesco Group, Knowle Bea Friend, Clipso, St Albans Pamela Cooney, Toni&Guy, Birmingham Conor Mclaughlin, HOB Salons, Loughton Katy Burgess, Headquarters Hair, Leatherhead George Waterfield, Georges, Leicester Rachel Gulliver, Watkins-Wright, Thirsk Karen Bradshaw, Headmasters, Soho Liberty Clark, Francesco Group, Cheltenham Yazz Nuttall, The Boutique Atelier, Ellesmere Port Mason Brock, Pkai Hair, Market Deeping

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N I L L A IT’S

x i m e h t Halcyon days spent lounging in the sunshine is our idea of heaven, but dry, summerscorched hair is not. Luckily, JOICO has designed the perfect summer cocktail for every hair type

A PERFECTLY BALANCED cocktail can be the best way to wind up a perfect summer’s day, and the balance is all in the ingredients. It’s the same for hair; the right mix of ingredients can keep hair looking healthy and vibrant for happy hair days, all summer long. Scorching summer days (fingers crossed) are when clients’ hair needs a little extra TLC to stop hair becoming dry and dehydrated, so make sure you’re on hand to steer them in the right direction. Help clients discover their perfect combination of moisturising, colour care and style and finishing products with a little help from JOICO.

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Colour care

HELP CLIENTS PREVENT COLOUR FROM FADING AND KEEP THEIR HAIR SOFT, SMOOTH AND SHINY WITH THESE TIPS:

1. Hats – not only protect your locks, but beautiful straw, floppy hats never go out of style. 2. Hair needs protecting just like skin – advise clients to cover up with UV-protecting JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock Multi-Perfector or JOICO Blonde Life Brightening Veil. 3. Treat your clients – encourage them to care for their coloured hair using JOICO K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock treatment or JOICO Blonde Life Brightening Masque for a daily dose of protection.

Moisturise

KEEP HAIR HYDRATED IN THE HEAT BY FOLLOWING THESE RULES:

1. Drink up – advise clients to think of their hair like their skin. When they’re dehydrated, skin becomes dry and cracked, and the same goes for their hair. 2. Nourish and nurture – help clients find their perfect hydrating match within the JOICO Moisture Recovery range and K-Pak Revitaluxe from the K-Pak range.

Style and ﬁnish

ONCE HAIR IS LOOKING HEALTHY, IT’S TIME FOR CLIENTS TO MAKE SURE THEIR STYLE DOESN’T LET THEM DOWN

1. Hair Shake – this liquid-to-powder texturising finisher provides volume to any hair type. Its mouldable yet dry texture is perfect for adding definition and lift. 2. Beach Shake – glamorous, beachy texture that won’t dry out hair the way some salt sprays can, it works best on medium to thick hair. 3. Body Shake – provides perfectly imperfect volume and body for the hair – without any visits to the gym. It delivers a velvety matte finish. Get mixing the perfect summer hair cocktail for your clients with JOICO. To find out more, call 0845 0712326 or visit joicoeurope.com/joicosummer CREATIVE HEAD

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*When using Neuro Prime. **When using Neuro Repair. ***When using Neuro Protect or Finish. Products were tested by an established, independent third-party laboratory. Results may vary. ®

GUILT- FREE HEAT ST YLING Introducing NeuroÂ® Liquid Intelligent Styling Â®

LIQUID Experience the advanced thermal protection of NeuroÂ® HeatCTRLÂ® technology, scientifically proven to lock in moisture and help prevent damage.

UP TO

X MORE

CONDITION**

BLOCKS HUMIDITY FOR UP TO

HOURS

***

PREVENTS THERMAL DAMAGE UP TO

Available exclusively from Salon Success Salon-success.co.uk/neuro-liquid 0845 659 0011

“

BECAUSE WHEN YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE, YOU HAVE THE COURAGE TO DO ANYTHING YOU DREAM OF 78

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”

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y t i t n e d y m # g Guy Tan Evolve Together

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Now available in the UK, exclusively from Salon Success and Salon Services

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AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY IN THE UK FROM SALON SUCCESS AND SALON SERVICES 79

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05/07/2018 14:40

“I’ve struggled with my identity. Overcoming these challenges has made me stronger” Guy Tang

With the launch of #mydentity in the UK, Guy Tang hopes to not only provide colourists with in-demand shades, but also empower them to create the colours they’ve always dreamed of

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Scroll through Guy Tang’s Instagram feed and you wouldn’t think he’d ever suffered from an identity crisis. With 2.3 million Instagram followers, he’s a social media sensation. But growing up it was a different story. He didn’t know who he was, what he wanted to do in life, or what his purpose was. Then he found hair and he found direction. “I found my purpose. It was to make a difference; change the world by doing hair,” says Guy. “But more than that it was to be a friend, a #hairbestie, and inspire other stylists just like me to find their identity, because I had such a hard time finding mine.” From this grew #mydentity. “I created #mydentity because I wanted to customise colours that we all dream of – hues that are missing from today’s hair colour,” explains Guy. He wanted to create a range that brings back the fun and excitement in our industry. Most of all, he wanted to create a community that empowers the #hairbestie family, and enables all colourists and stylists to find their #mydentity, because “when you know who you are, you have the courage to do anything you dream”. With the support of millions of #hairbesties around the world, you can now create the most demanding hair shades of the season with Guy Tang’s #mydentity. It’s the first influencer brand created by the biggest social media superstar in the professional hair industry worldwide. And now it’s arrived on UK shores, with nearly 50 new shades set to join the collection this summer!

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#mydentity

customised colours we all dream of The Guy Tang #mydentity collection features an assortment of pre-blended, completely customised colours designed with ultimate creativity in mind. These are shades that will enable you easily to recreate the hottest hair colour trends of the season, as well as natural, wearable, salon-sellable looks. Formulated using advanced Vibrariche Technology, #mydentity delivers vibrant, intense colour with double the shine – well, nobody wants dull hair,

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right? And because achieving fashion colours means pre-lightening, often to a pale level 10, #mydentity includes an exclusive keratin and argan seed oil blend – to ensure clients’ hair is protected and conditioned. But the special ingredient that gets Guy so excited is Miru-Style X-HP. It delivers extreme heat protection from thermal styling – up to 230˚C – helping to protect the beautiful colours you create from fading.

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Clients should experience more than just another hair colour service. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why #mydentity is infused with Guy Tangâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite lavender fragrance. It smells so good!

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#mydentity

The Collection

PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

DEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR

Breakthrough Miru-Style X-HP delivering extreme heat protection – up to 230˚C – to radically reduce the damaging eﬀects of thermal styling

Advanced Vibrariche technology for hair colour with 2x the shine

Formulated with Guy’s favourite lavender fragrance

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE

Mixing ratio 1:1. Processing time: 30 minutes. For resistant greys, process up to 40 minutes

Mixing ratio 1:2. Processing time: 25 minutes. When looking for more opaque coverage, mix 1:1

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DEMI-PERMANENT CRYSTAL CLEAR

PERMANENT DARK SHADOWS

Use for a colour glossing treatment or to dilute or lessen deposit

Formulated with the lowest ammonia possible, it’s best for a shadow rootagé. Use it to smoke out permanent shades

“The most versatile shade in my portfolio!” INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE COLOUR GLOSSING TREATMENT:

Mixing ratio – 1:2. Processing time: 5 to 25 minutes DILUTE OR LESSEN DEPOSIT:

Incorporate desired amount – up to 50 per cent – into any demi-permanent formulation. Processing time: 5 to 25 minutes

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“For impactful colour and shadow rootagé” INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE DIRECT APPLICATION:

Can be mixed with permanent or demipermanent developer (6v – 20v) for desired consistency. Processing time: 20 minutes ENHANCE ANY PERMANENT SHADE:

Add into permanent formulation, no extra developer needed. Process according to permanent formulation

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#mydentity

The Collection

X-PRESS TONERS

#MAGNUM8 POWDER LIGHTENER

Breakthrough Miru-Style X-HP delivering extreme heat protection – up to 230˚C – to radically reduce the damaging eﬀects of thermal styling

Dust-free, violet powder that lifts up to 8 levels

Advanced Vibrariche Technology for hair colour with 2x the shine Tone out any unwanted pigments in up to 5 minutes A range of toning results that deliver the most control, with a depth of a level 8 deposit

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE 1:2 ratio with 6vol developer for 5 minutes on damp hair

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Fast-acting on-and-oﬀ scalp lift that delivers maximum control Provides superior condition during lifting process Formulated with Guy Tang’s favourite lavender fragrance

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE Mix 1:1 up to 1:3 with #mydentity Permanent Developer for desired consistency. On-scalp application up to 20vol. Oﬀ-scalp application up to 40vol. Apply to dry unwashed hair. Processing time: 20 to 45 minutes

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#BIG9 CRÈME LIGHTENER

DEVELOPER COLLECTION

Lifts up to 9 levels in a single application – no heat required

Formulated with Guy Tang’s favourite lavender fragrance

Versatile formula for precise and global application techniques

Available in a range of: 6v Demi-Permanent Developer 10v – 40v Permanent Developer For all your #mydentity colour needs

Delivers superior conditioning during the lifting process Protective crème base soothes the scalp and reduces sensitivity

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE Mix 1:1 for global consistency, mix 1:1.5 for precision foil or root retouch application. On-scalp up to 20 vol. Oﬀ-scalp application up to 40 vol. Processing time: 20 to 45 minutes

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SEDUCTION #Magnum8 + Permanent 20V Developer (1:2) on the roots #Magnum8 + Permanent 30V Developer (1:2) on the mid-lengths and ends 58g Demi-Permanent Naked + Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) on the roots 58g Demi-Permanent Naked 10 + Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) on the mid-lengths and ends

LETâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S. GET. NAKED. Introducing the Naked Collection from #mydentity. A new collection of three demi-permanent shades that deliver cool tones with a warm reflection, giving a soft, powder-like reflection

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TEMPTATION Backcomb balayage with #Magnum8 + Permanent 30V Developer (1:2) 110g Demi-Permanent 6A + DemiPermanent 6IG + 2g Demi-Permanent 6A + Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) applied to backcombed areas Demi-Permanent Naked 8 + Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) on mid-lengths Demi-Permanent Naked 10 + Demi-Permanent 6V Developer (1:2) on mid-lengths 58g Demi-Permanent Naked 10 + 55g Demi-Permanent Crystal Clear + DemiPermanent 6V Developer (1:2) on the ends

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Naked tones! Mix them wit h Rose Gold or Dusty Lavender and Sil ver Smoke to create beautiful Blush, Mau ve and Taupe Naked tones, and customise them to make wearable shades for your clientâ&#x20AC;? Guy Tang

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MIDNIGHT ROSE

ate s to cre e i r e s e t Ros t for Midnigh colour. Grea rose he t e red and “I lov eep cool sty Lavender d , ch i ct ion ar it h Du creat ive dire w g n i x intermi or a different ” f ity colour s in tonal

Permanent 6MR (58g) mixed 1:1 with Permanent Developer 20V at the rootagé Permanent 6MR (58g) mixed 1:1 with equal parts of Permanent Developer 20V (29g) & Permanent Developer 30V (29g) on the mid-lengths and through the ends

ng Guy Ta

BLUSH #Big9 Crème Lightener (50g) + #Magnum8 Powder Lightener (50g) mixed 1:2 with Permanent Developer 30V to pre-lighten Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner Misty Mauve (58g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V at the rootagé Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner Blush (58g) mixed 1:2 with DemiPermanent Developer 6V on the mid-lengths Demi-Permanent X-PRESS Toner Blush (58g) + Demi-Permanent Crystal Clear (58g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V through the ends

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“#HairBest ies, I lov e mixing the X-PRESS toners toge ther to get different variations of tones” Guy Tang

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es! ” st i ne be to air ld #h ce go ng i MG n y Ta “O e a Gu lov I

ICE GOLD The ice gold series gives a hybrid tonality that adds an iridescent cool reﬂection to a soft gold tonality. Great for toning blondes and lowlighting #Magnum8 mixed 1:2 with Permanent Developer 30V to pre-lighten. #Hairbesties, I used the Stardust Technique with backcombing placement Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) + Demi-Permanent 6IG (29g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V at the rootagé Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V on mid-lengths Demi-Permanent 9IG (58g) + Demi-Permanent Crystal Clear (58g) mixed 1:2 with DemiPermanent Developer 6V through the ends

SILVER SMOKE Demi-Permanent 6SS (58 g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V at the rootagé

tity love the #myden “#HairBest ies I mbo. co er nd usty Lave D d an e ok Sm r S il ve h wit h smoky, icy finis I t gives you this ent!” em ov m so much n, sio en m di uch so m Guy Tang

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Demi-Permanent 8DL (58 g) & DemiPermanent 10DL (58 g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V on the mid-lengths Demi-Permanent 10SS (58 g) mixed 1:2 with Demi-Permanent Developer 6V through the ends

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"We asked ourselves; what do people not like about getting their hair done? And we've tried to tackle each of those things, one by one" The new Hershesons salon in Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Fitzrovia turns the traditional salon concept on its head. Creative HEAD gets an exclusive look

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#Hershesons

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#Hershesons AFTER 26 YEARS in Conduit Street, Hershesons has moved. The new flagship in nearby Berners Street looks, feels and behaves like nothing you’ve ever seen before: a 5,000sq ft multi-functional, stylish space (‘salon’ no longer seems the right word) that combines hair shop and blow-dry bar with ‘best in class’ beauty services, as well as hangout cafe, work and social space. Once inside, why would anyone ever want to leave? “The old salon model is dead,” says creative director Luke Hersheson, who spent 12 months working on the concept alongside design house gpstudio and architect Racheline Michaels. “Salons are no longer in tune with how people live their lives. So this is not a traditional salon – it’s a beauty space, a work space and a social space, wrapped into one. Customers can pick the services they want according to their needs and their time frame. Or she can just hang out and have a coffee. She can nip in for express services and work at the same time, or plant herself with us all day and have every treatment we offer, back-to-back. It’s a space that is built around our customer. It’s all about her and fitting in with her life.” Hair is, of course, what Hershesons is known for, and the cut, colour and styling services on offer are world-class, but even here there are details that break with the norm. The mirrors are retractable, for example, so clients don’t have to look at themselves while their colour processes; gowns, styled like dressing gowns, aren’t put on at reception – the stylist greets the client first so they can see what they’re wearing and make an informed judgment on lifestyle and personality. Not only that, clients get to sit where they want, like in a restaurant, rather than seats being arranged into cutting and colour sections. Speaking of restaurants, the new food and drink offering at Hershesons is another tour de force – a sunny cafe space at the front of the salon run by East London eatery Sans Pere offers a menu of healthy, wholesome treats alongside some seriously good coffee. The addition of Sans Pere elevates Hershesons into a day trip destination – a place where you can while away an afternoon with a freshly baked croissant after a blow-dry. “No-one ‘needs’ a handmade tartelette or a freshly filled matcha choux,” says Sans Pere founder Barney Goff. “But then, Sans Pere at Hershesons is not about necessity, nor is it about hedonism. It’s a place where you can enjoy life’s pleasures.”

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Detail-obsessed Luke’s thoughtful touches mean that hanging out at Hershesons is positively encouraged: there are little nooks in which to chill or spend time on your laptop; power points to charge your phone are everywhere; there’s an abundance of plants (great for relaxation) and also ceramics from young, up-and-coming designers (great for inspiration); and an entire wall covered in Luke’s tear sheets (great for gazing at in awe). The new Hershesons is so much more than a place to go and get your hair cut. In a ground-breaking move, Luke has paired up with some stand-out independent beauty brands – Sunday Riley offers facials (a global coup); there’s a DryBy nail bar, the people for subtle nail art and long-lasting manicures and pedicures; Ministry of Waxing; Dr Barbara Sturm, for non-surgical cosmetic treatments; light therapy by The Light Salon; and brows by Suman Brows – to offer customers a 360-degree approach to their salon experience. “We wanted to bring in other brands that are really great at what they do,” explains Luke. “It was about finding other owner-run businesses to host that clients will want to visit in their own right, not just as add-ons.” The result feels like a wonderfully fresh and modern creative collaboration that buzzes with activity and positivity. “The vibe is of fun, interesting things going on all the time,” says Luke. “It’s not lots of people working in rows like in a traditional salon. By mixing things up and putting things in different and unexpected places, it completely changes the client experience. It’s interesting and it totally removes the intimidation factor.” Staff adore the new-look Hershesons, too. “They love that every chair has a full set of equipment, so they can work anywhere and everywhere – and they particularly love that it’s all on one floor,” says Luke. “Now colourists and stylists work together collaboratively, which creates a fantastic energy around the space.” Even the assistants’ uniforms have had an upgrade – gone are the old black uniforms; in come Reebok trainers and stripy J Brand tops, with denim jumpsuits on order. “If we were going to make a move, then it had to be to something considerably different,” says Luke. “When we found the space with this impressive glass frontage and everything on one floor, we just thought, let’s start from scratch.” Job done.

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#Hershesons

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Take a . . . r u o t

are out on the Beauty brands the hair team floor alongside

Plants and ceramic pieces create a restful atmosphere

Bat hroom wallpaper by House of Hackney

Good, strong coffee by Sans Pere

A stunning blue in the backwash area. Wherever you go, there are litt le surprises â&#x20AC;&#x201C; like walking around your home, from room to room

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The mirror s, ever-so-slightly tilted for a more flattering reflection, are retractable

#Hershesons

The office – situated at the rear of the space

team The assistant now dresses in Reebok J B rand and

n t he o k or w t of o le l a ab d i mm d i d We s hing’ t y r e ev – light ing via an app The new logo – designed by ACNE spaces Relax ing ay aw to while t he day CREATIVE HEAD

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TWO 88

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TRIBES AFTER A MEETING OF MINDS AT THE COTERIE YEARS AGO, IT LIST VISIONARY 2017 WINNER, CASEY COLEMAN, AND 2018 IT LIST FASHIONISTA FINALIST, JODIE AUSTEN, HAVE COLLABORATED TO EXPLORE CLASSIC STYLES AND THE CONTRAST BETWEEN EDITORIAL AND AVANT-GARDE, EXCLUSIVELY FOR CREATIVE HEAD. WELCOME TO NICE TO NICHE YOU PHOTOGR APHY BY LEL BURNETT CREATIVE HEAD

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2017

THE VISIONARY

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2017 WINNER

TO SEE more from this shoot, visit creativeheadmag.com

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AVANT-GARDE HAIR Casey Coleman. EDITORIAL HAIR Jodie Austen. MAKE-UP Gemma Howell. STYLING Claire Younger. MODELS Niamh Gray at Profile Models, Sophie Fisher at Established Models, Ceci Zhang at Mosaic Models, Marketa Figeczka. CONTRIBUTING BRAND Evo Hair at Dowal Walker PR. LOCATION Haus of Brooks in Bexhill. CREATIVE DIRECTION Jodie Austen. ART DIRECTION Lel Burnett. EXECUTIVE PRODUCER Joseph Taylor.

A new England With a fashion-forward and genderfree approach, Simon Webster Hair focuses on accessibility and its Brighton community, using clients as models. This technical collection is inspired by Simon’s interest in subcultures and the brand’s tagline – style-music-fashion PHOTOGRAPHY BY KENNY MCCRACKEN 92

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HAIR SWH Team, Simon Webster Hair. MAKE-UP XoÃ« Kingsley. STYLING Greg Bailey. STUDIO The Brighton Studio SEE the shoot come alive at creativeheadmag.com

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Scene Sophie Qureshi

Rebecca Chang

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Smash

&GRAB

FRESH, RELEVANT and different – a genius onstage pairing of current It List It Girl Rebecca Chang and Most Wanted Hair Trend winner Sam Burnett delivered a creative tour de force at our 2018 Coterie: In Session event. The two stylists shared not only techniques and inspirational insight from their experiences at shoots and shows, but also perfectly demonstrated today’s easy fluidity between the salon and session worlds. Hosted by journalist and beauty expert Sophie Qureshi and taking place in an East London photographic studio, the event had a real on-set feel, with a packed-out audience able to see every detail. The crowd watched closely as Sam and Rebecca demonstrated everything from ’70s-inspired volume and texture to braiding techniques picked up from Eugene Souleiman, while Sophie fired questions about the opportunities and challenges of life backstage. They even rose to an on-the-spot challenge, with just six minutes to whip up a look, and the audience voted for their favourite creation with a show of hands. Both artists smashed it! And everyone left with a goody bag from sponsor BaByliss PRO, containing the tool-of-the-moment – a 38mm Titanium Expression tong.

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Sam Burnett CREATIVE HEAD

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START

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Debra Perelman, chief executive of Revlon

WITH ITS GAUDÍ-DESIGNED buildings and long, tree-lined streets that lead down to the sea, Barcelona is a hub of artistic expression. So it’s no surprise that the city was picked to host the 10th annual Style Masters International Awards. Thousands of hairdressers gathered to support their countries at the event, which was hosted by Miquel García, global executive vice-president for artistic and education at Revlon Professional. The show saw live styling from finalists, with David Rae representing the UK and Maria Montes Campal of Spain taking home the trophy. Sam Wall flew the flag for the UK in the American Crew All-Star Challenge, but was pipped to the post by Vitaly Pimenov of Russia. And there was no shortage of inspiration too – from the aquatic beauty of the Eksperience segment and the launch of Glamsquad to the raw power and sharp barbering of the American Crew show, these hairdressers proved that they are truly masters of their craft.

UK finalist David Rae

YOUR engines… CREATIVE HEAD

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And the winners areâ&#x20AC;¦ AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE: Vitaly Pimenov, Russia GLOBAL STYLE MASTERS AWARD: Maria Montes Campal, Spain THE MOST BEAUTIFUL COLOR AWARD: Natalya Zheglova, Russia BEST STAGE PERFORMANCE AWARD: Mandy Lau Hoi Man, Hong Kong

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Natalya Zheglova

Mandy Lau Hoi Man

Maria Montes Campal

David Raccuglia (left) and Vitaly Pimenov

YOUNG TALENT AWARD: Jeneta Shekhovich, Russia

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Jessica Bumpus

Robin James

From left: Bora Esen, Colin Petrie and Mark Maciver

COTERIE

crew

WITH AN ELECTRIC atmosphere and packed-out room, The Coterie returned to London to deliberate on the ever-evolving male market and boy, was it an interesting evening. Freelance journalist and digital editor Jessica Bumpus, fresh from London Fashion Week Men’s, kicked off proceedings outlining the key trends from the S/S19 shows as well as shifts in the male aesthetic over the 12 seasons since the event’s inception. It was then time to get up close and personal with Robin James, founder of men’s style blog Man for Himself. Recently undertaking a barbering course himself, Robin spoke of plans to offer a studio space to barbers to give them a platform on his channel. Wrapping up proceedings was a trio of expert barbers; Mark Maciver AKA SliderCuts, Colin Petrie of Hard Grind, and Bora Esen, founder of Porters Barbers. A clear take home from the panel was offering ‘more’ and how barber shops aren’t only focused on the haircut, but also the experience and how the person sitting in their chair feels. Everyone left armed with goodies from sponsor, American Crew. Sorted!

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I love that everything I need to run my business is in Timely

Kathryn Dartnell

DARIO COTRONEO Dario Salon, Sydney

THE

young ones

FOR THE PAST 18 years, L’Oréal Professionnel has partnered with Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design to nurture new talent and celebrate the key links between fashion and hairdressing. This year, the L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Session Team, led by Kathryn Dartnell of Haringtons, returned to Granary Square to style the hair for the BA Fashion Show. The show saw graduates’ collections complemented by slick wet looks and intricate mini buns, as the future of fashion unfolded on the catwalk. Saloni Chotai, L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio manager, presented the L’Oréal Professionnel Designer of the Year Award to Paolina Russo; while Simon Valer Decef, René Scheibenbauer and Matilda Soderberg were runners up. The judging panel was made up of some of fashion’s great minds, including designer Richard Quinn, stylist Ibrahim Kamara and Central Saint Martins’ BA Fashion course leader, Sarah Gresty. It’s a brave new world out there.

Find out why over 32,000 stylists and therapists worldwide love Timely.

gettimely.com

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#LCT18 model @loreal pro #lorea lprouk

Wa ving up a storm on stag e

#Behi ndTheScenes preppin g for our Trevor Sorbie brand shoot

In the

My dot-to-dot look

frame Trevor Sorbie’s Vera Mai Ha (@mai_ha2) – the new L’Oréal Colour Trophy joint winner – snaps away

Creatin g a look with tracing paper, inspired by design er Iris Van Herpen

SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

On stag e in Z urich creat ing dot- to-d ot

One of my favourit e looks from our Unified collection

Our winn ing #LCT18 look

The right angle

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That winning feeling! #LCT18 CREATIVE HEAD

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