£4.50 JUNE 2019
In print•online•everywhere!
JUNE 2019 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
AMP IT UP
TAKE WAVES AND CURLS TO THE NEXT LEVEL
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MICRO
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
MIGHTY MEET THE LATEST ADDITION TO CLOUD NINE’S AWARD-WINNING STYLING TOOLS: THE MICRO WAND EMBRACE THE INDIVIDUAL! Whether that’s poker-straight hair or super-kinky, tight curls, creating the right look for clients is all about having a variety of ideas to let their personality shine through. That includes the tools you use to help them achieve their individual style. So step forward the latest launch from Cloud Nine… The Micro Wand! The perfect partner for naturally curly and textured hair as well as stubbornly straight locks that refuse to hold looser curls, this tapered wand packs a serious styling punch. It’s ideal for going in and defining wayward curls for added natural volume, or creating a serious style statement with bold, springy curls. Offering a tighter curl than The Curling Wand and The Waving Wand from Cloud Nine, The Micro Wand adds precise definition when and where you need it. And don’t worry about those curls dropping any time soon – The Micro Wand, like all Cloud Nine Irons and Wands, emits negative ions that lock in moisture, helping to seal the cuticle layer and minimise damage to the hair’s natural structure that so often results in breakage. What sets Cloud Nine’s award-winning tools apart is the seriously clever tech that’s under the bonnet. Using exclusive technology from beauty hub South Korea, each product undergoes a 72-hour infusion process where vitamins and minerals are baked into the ceramic barrel and plates. The result? Oh-so smooth and efficient heat conduction, dramatically reducing the risk of damage from uneven heat application for beautifully glossy curls.
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S E O D SIZE …AND THE MICRO WAND FROM CLOUD NINE PROVES IT! DESIGNED TO ENHANCE AND DEFINE, THIS IS THE PERFECT WAND FOR NATURAL LOOKING, LONG-LASTING CURLS
THE TAPERED BARREL means The Micro Wand can be used for precision styling in any situation. Every head of hair is different, so The Micro Wand comes with three variable heat settings to choose the temperature best suited to your client’s hair type. Choose from low (125°C), medium (150°C) and high (175°C) for shiny, safe and longlasting styling without the worries of excessive heat damage.
“I love the versatility of The Micro Wand, it’s an essential part of my kit. Its adjustable temperature control allows me to create long-lasting results while keeping the hair in tip-top condition” RIKKI THOMAS, STYLE DIRECTOR, DANIEL GALVIN SELFRIDGES
“I absolutely love The Micro Wand! Its prescriptive temperature control allows me to consider hair integrity. The mineral-infused barrel adds shine, so it’s perfect for someone looking to define curls on naturally curly hair”
CASEY COLEMAN, FOUNDER, CHAIR SALONS
“The Micro Wand is my new go-to hair tool! With it I can enhance natural curls, create gorgeous mermaid waves and even make tight editorial curls. It’s definitely a must-have for my kitbag!” ASHLEIGH HODGES, DIRECTOR, @HAIRDOTCOM ART TEAM
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
MATTER…
Call your Cloud Nine account manager for salon-exclusive prices or find out how to become a Cloud Nine stockist, call 0845 2003563 or visit cloudninehair.com
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UP TO 9 LEVELS OF LIFT with fast take-off IMPROVED HAIR COSMETICITY* with oil-based developers MULTI-TECHNIQUES for foil, open-air & on-scalp techniques IDEAL FOR NATURAL OR COLOURED HAIR Optimal adherence & Optimal neutralisation
*vs hair before bleaching
DP - F. exé : 440 x 285 mm _ PP _QUADRI - PROFIL _ MASTER - 9 TONS _ Encrage total = 270 % _ V0 _ impression laser à 100% _ N° dossier : 43644
THE NEXT GENERATION OF BLONDE
UP TO 9 LEVELS OF LIFT. IMPROVED HAIR COSMETICITY*
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BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
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08/03/2019 16:07
ITALY’S NUMBER ONE PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE BRAND — NOW AVAILABLE IN TOP UK SALONS
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#ALFAPARFPEOPLE
ALFAPARFMILANO.COM
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Editor’s letter
69 36
58
#MWIT19 entrants, time’s up! It’s now over to the judges to decide our 2019 stars. Good luck to one and all! Want to CLIMATE CHANGE, plastic pollution and the decimation of know where our winners will wildlife and forests… it’s all become very scary. Perhaps it’s the be crowned and by whom? current political climate, but recently everything has seemed just a touch See pages 30-31. On more apocalyptic. Of course, often the argument made concerning both the 19 June, we hit the road, environment and politics is that one person can’t make any real difference, as Big Hair Do is back so why bother? Well, if we don’t all start reducing our consumption and waste, in exclusive partnership frankly we’re screwed. So, inside you’ll find our Sustainability Issue, in association with Schwarzkopf with Pureology. It’s packed full of first steps, those little swaps that your salon Professional, keep eyes business can make to effect a real, wider change. And if you’re still dubious, then on @creativeheadmag let me appeal to the cynic in you – this can win you a wider audience and make for live updates. On you money. Mintel cites 57 per cent of shoppers would buy – or boycott – a brand 15 July, session forces depending on its ethical values, a figure that’s up 20 per cent on 2018. Your clients Leigh Keates and Lisa will be increasingly influenced by your sustainability ethos, and if you’re left Farrall are uniting for this wanting, they’ll go elsewhere. So if you want to sustain your business in the year’s second serving of future, start making changes before it’s too late. The Coterie: In Session, see pages 32-33. Meanwhile, did you know Salon Smart is heading to Ireland for the first time? Learn more on pages 36-37. For news and tickets, visit Amanda Nottage creativeheadmag.com/events Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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#ALFAPARFPEOPLE
ITALY’S NUMBER ONE PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE BRAND — NOW AVAILABLE IN TOP UK SALONS
ALFAPARFMILANO.COM
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June WHAT’S INSIDE 38
62 FASHION
Leeds salon Tint is keeping it real with a collection based on honest cutting and colouring
ON THE COVER
Hair by James Earnshaw for Cloud Nine. Photography by Paul Whitfield
HARI SALEM
The West London hair legend opens up about why it’s finally time to retire (again!)
66 EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DEPUTY EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
DIGITAL DESIGNER
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE DEBORAH MURTHA NICK JABBAL EVA VESTMANN
ADAM WOOD
ANNA SAMSON KELSEY DRING
DAVID HAMMOND JENNY BROOKS
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ALISON ROWLEY
creativeheadmag.com
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SCENE
Boys will be boys at The Coterie: In Session
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
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285mm x 220mm Advert 17/04/2019 12:19 Page 3
NORDIC PRODUCT HARMONY are vegan. are vegan.
E
E
are vegan. E
STYLING
CARE
IdHAIR Elements Xclusive is beautiful and delicious hair in harmony with nature. With inspiration from the Danish coasts, we have created a Nordic design with focus on recycled plastic where we have added innovative products of very high quality to pamper your hair. Many of the ingredients are collected from nature and most of the products are produced at our own facilities in Sweden. And as an extra bonus, all care products are vegan. Even though the series is based on our Nordic heritage, we also searched around the world to find the best ingredients. Therefore a fusion of ingredients from all over the world is used in our products.
www.idhairuk.com
www.tradehairsupplies.co.uk
ths TRADE HAIR SUPPLIES
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
WHO WILL BE THE 2019 MOST WANTED HAIR ICON?
IT’S THE CATEGORY everyone wants to be in. Nominated by fellow stylists, colourists, business experts and industry VIPs, a place on the Most Wanted Hair Icon shortlist is the reward for a year of stellar work. These hair heavyweights have excelled across session and colour work, and picking a winner will be no easy feat. The winner from the below shortlist will be announced at the Most Wanted and The It List Awards on Monday 2 September.
THE 2019 NOMINEES ARE: SALLY BROOKS NICOLA CLARKE ERROL DOUGLAS MBE SOPHIA HILTON ZOË IRWIN SAM MCKNIGHT ADAM REED EUGENE SOULEIMAN ANTHONY TURNER JOSH WOOD Want to know who’s hosting and where we’ll be? Turn to page 30 for more information
2019
HAIR INDUSTRY MOURNS DEATH OF SEAN NOLAN Sean Nolan, head of technical at HOB Salons and Academy, has passed away suddenly after being struck by a fatal brain haemorrhage. He was just 37. Sean was taken ill while working in Scotland on the HOB Academy show as part of the #WellaCreativeRemix and TrendVision Award 2019 Regional Heats Tour. A brilliant colourist, Sean was dedicated to educating young hairdressers and sharing his love of colour and the world of opportunities it can open up. A tribute was held at the Southern heat of the TrendVision Awards in London, where his family and friends joined his HOB Salons and Wella families to remember his talent and his vibrant personality (see page 69). His vision will still be seen on the floor across the HOB Salons group as it rolls out a new colour menu, devised and perfected by Sean over the past two years.
The new Smoothing shampoo and conditioner duo from Monat gives an almost mirror-like shine thanks to Rejuvenique, a blend of plant and essential oils full of omega fatty acids. monatglobal.com
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Artist’s sketch of the planned Urban Retreat residence
#CHedit MY month
AHEAD What June has in store for...
JANET MAITLAND JANET MAITLAND HAIR EXCELLENCE
We’re getting ready to hold our Big Hair Do and we can’t wait. They’re always such fun and it’s lovely to see clients new and old popping by for a good old catch up! This year we’ll be raising money for Shaping Futures, Schwarzkopf Professional’s charity initiative.
Frédéric Fekkai to open first UK salon ICONIC FRENCH STYLIST Frédéric Fekkai will unveil the first international salon for the brand when Urban Retreat launches its new luxury beauty residence in London’s Knightsbridge. Frédéric Fekkai will take up the first floor, which will also host new product lines, The One and Bastide. A retail space of curated beauty brands takes up the ground floor, while the second and third floors will house more medical and traditional beauty services.
9am
is the busiest and most profitable hour, when salons see four-times more clients and earn nearly seven-times more than at 6pm and after office hours. Fridays and Saturdays are the busiest with 40.19 per cent of services scheduled, while Mondays are the least crowded (fewer than 9 per cent of bookings). The findings come from a report by Versum, based on data from more than 325,000 British and Irish beauty and hair salons.
PULP RIOT Peckham got a whole lot more colourful as Pulp Riot held its first ever Lab event on UK soil. Alongside founders Alexis and David Thurston, three of the brand’s guest artists from the US travelled to Cahoona’s Hair Hub in London, where a select group of creative colourists from across the country got to play with the semipermanent line for the first time. Following demos by Kasey O’Hara Skrobe, Ruby Devine and Sam Daly, who each showed off their Insta-famous techniques, the British painters got to go wild with the vivids palette.
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FRANCESCO GROUP ECCLESHALL
I’m still buzzing about getting through to the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Grand Final for the third time and cannot wait to compete. I’m also part of the Francesco Group’s Creative Team, and will be working backstage for the catwalk show at our annual awards evening and 50th birthday celebrations.
MOVERS AND SHAKERS
Kasey O’Hara Scrobe and Alexis Thurston
PASSES LAB TEST
DREW UDALL
Julie Winchester has been revealed as the new general manager of Kao Salon Division for the UK, Ireland and South Africa. US hair brand Amika has appointed Bad Apple’s James Earnshaw as UK artistic ambassador following its UK launch. Rosie Binns, manager of Ethos Manchester, has been announced as an ambassador for Alfa Italia.
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Hot on the heels of the colour range newly launched at Salon Services, Lômé Paris has unveiled Styling and Care ranges, too. Both contain a keratin complex to strengthen and protect the hair, while also nourishing.
The new formulation of Serie Expert Absolut Repair Gold from L’Oréal Professionnel now includes gold quinoa and protein. There are two new innovations to try – the shimmery Absolut Repair Gold Mask for fine/medium hair and the multi-tasking Absolut Repair Gold 10 in 1 Spray.
RRP FROM £12.90 0800 0304034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Revitalise blonde hair with milk_ shake’s Sweet Camomile collection, using honey and camomile to enhance lighter locks. And it’s paraben-free.
RRP FROM £14.69 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
SALON PRICE FROM £1.99 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
Perfect for refreshing colour, Color Revive Color Giving Conditioner from Goldwell delivers eight shades tailored to match the most popular Topchic and Colorance hues.
RRP £15.50 0330 1239530 Irresistible services consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
When bold vivid shades and pretty pastels started becoming a proper consumer trend, many turned up their noses and proclaimed it a passing fad. Well, here we are nearly a decade later and such shades are still regular requests in salons across the land. So, you’ll want to know about Pulp Riot’s Semi Permanent OGs. These are simple to apply, are conditioner based and they fade fabulously, often delivering a result a client loves even more, long after their appointment. There are 16 shades and a clear for pastelisation, and there’s lots more coming from the US brand later in the year that we know colour clients with an edge will love…
goldwell.co.uk
Inessence from System Professional uses up to 96 per cent natural origin ingredients avoids sulphates, silicones and parabens to deliver rejuvenated-looking hair.
RRP FROM £21.30 0203 9011163 systemprofessional.com
IN-SALON SERVICE 0844 8460111 salonsdirect.com
Steady yourself – Olaplex has unveiled No. 6 Bond Smoother, a leave-in styling crème that de-frizzes, hydrates, protects and restores all hair types – including coloured and chemically-treated hair – without weighing it down.
The Prima 3000 from BaByliss PRO boasts five settings, ionic boost technology to remove static and smooth the cuticle and true titanium floating plates to deliver great performance at a lower temperature.
RRP £120
SALON PRICE £17.95 0330 1231907
0370 5133191
salon-services.com
babylisspro.co.uk
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Color Excel by Revlonissimo is a new versatile tone-on-tone range with 58 ammonia-free shades to deliver reliable, high-wattage radiance and dazzling shine to ensure clients get their gloss fix!
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.co.uk
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STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS Coax out coils and tight curls with new The Micro Wand from Cloud Nine. An ultra-fine, tapered wand, this styler can be used to create perfect and even finishes in more textured, curly hair, or tighter curls in straight hair that drops curls quickly. The hightech gadgetry of Cloud Nine’s award-winning designs continues here as an exclusive mineral-infused, baked barrel create a supersmooth surface to leave hair looking incredibly shiny, and three temperature settings are available to suit each and every hair type.
RRP £109
0845 2003563 cloudninehair.com
ch... t a w o t O ne
IdHAIR
In Denmark in 1986, a salesman called Preben Munch Kjaergaard worked with a chemist to formulate a range of hair waxes, the very first IdHAIR product range. With a vision of doing things in a different way to help the stylist, he wanted to provide better hair products that would make their day a that little bit easier. Those little IdHAIR Original Waxes now sell more than one million pots a year and IdHAIR has become one of the biggest hair brands in Scandinavia. As it’s grown, it’s set up a research and manufacturing facility in Sweden, combining industry experts and the expertise of chemists to curate and develop exciting new products. The brand’s motto is based on innovation, commitment, cooperation and education and now there’s a team of IdHAIR educators supplying training courses alongside its ever-expanding product range. And what a line-up it’s becoming – there’s the 13-strong styling range, IdHAIR ME; the new
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generation of intensifying colour conditioners Colour Bomb; the strengthening system and the IdHAIR Elements Xclusive Care and Styling ranges, which focus on using recycled plastic for its packaging. All Elements Xclusive products are also sulphateand paraben-free, contain hypoallergenic perfume and some are also vegan and gluten-free, perfect for those interested in clean and sustainable living. In fact, what sets IdHAIR apart is its Green Salon certification in Denmark. The majority of IdHAIR’s hair products are Green Salon certified, meaning they have been inspected and approved, giving the brand a real USP for those who want to get environmentally friendly, cruelty-free and natural ranges on their shelves. Just check out the IdHAIR ingredients – you’ll spot items such as panthenol, amino acids, lactitol and xylitol, as well as a wide range of natural goodies including wheat, Nordic cotton, African pepper, macadamia seed oil, argan seed oil and watermelon seed oil to name a few.
RRP FROM £4.40
ADURNEY@TRADEHAIRSUPPLIES.COM idhairuk.com
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THE BUSINESS EDIT
LISA JACKSON
REVLON PROFESSIONAL UK & IRELAND WHAT EXACTLY IS MAGN±T BY REVLON PROFESSIONAL, AND WHY IS IT SO SPECIAL? Pollution is not only affecting hair health by making it weaker, rough and dull, it’s also affecting the colour result on your client’s hair. Magn±t is a patented, innovative line that removes pollution from the hair and protects it so particles cannot be absorbed. It’s designed to reveal the best colour result and a healthier hair fibre.
CAN COLOURISTS USE THIS IN THE SAME WAY AS BOND BUILDERS? Yes, Magn±t can be used with any hair colour and lightening brand to remove pollution from the hair shaft and then form a barrier so it can’t get back in. People are worried about the impact of pollution on their life, including on the appearance and quality of their hair.
WHAT ARE THE BENEFITS TO SALONS AND TO CLIENTS? Pollution is also affecting the colour result on your client’s hair – imprecise and unreliable results, loss of vibrancy, increased damage during technical services, reduced chromaticity and less shine. By using Magn±t on your clients’ hair, you keep them in love with their colour between appointments. Also, as it’s a professional salon service with take-home elements, it keeps clients loyal to their salon.
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HOW TO INCREASE YOUR SALON PRICES SELLING A GREAT product or service is no longer enough. It’s harder than ever to turn a profit, even if you feel like you’re doing everything right. So how can you ensure that you’ve got enough money coming in? One solution is to implement a price increase. It’s obvious why this can be seen as a controversial decision – why would you risk pushing away existing customers and making your salon seem less appealing? It’s a case of valuing your services correctly. “It is important to be aware of what is going on in the market,” says Yulia Rorstrom, founder of Duck & Dry blowdry salons. “When you find that similar competitors are charging more than you, that is the time to increase your prices so that they reflect what your competitors are charging. Then you increase in a way that you are able to justify – the new prices must be a reflection of your increased costs such as rent, wages, main costs of sales which could be haircare or styling products.” Janet Maitland of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence, suggests that even small increases can make a big difference. “Increase prices by £1,” she says. “This doesn’t sound like much but when multiplied across the number of appointments, you’ll see the benefits quickly. And most people don’t mind a pound increase.” And, she says, the timing is everything: “One of the best times to do this is in December. People want to get their
hair done for Christmas – meaning they are focused on keeping their appointment as well as the many other things going on at that time of year, so they are less likely to notice a small increase.” So you’ve kept your eye on competitors and decided on an increase that reflects the value of your services. The next challenge is communicating your decision to your team before they can pass on the news to their clients. The key, says Simon Hill, owner of Sesh Hairdressing, is to be transparent about the reasons behind the changes. “Once you have made the decision to increase your prices and have curated a new price list, you need to communicate with your team as they will have the responsibility of explaining this to the clients,” he advises. “Explain your reasoning and outline the time each service equates to, the stock required and relevant price increases from product suppliers. The better your explanation of this is to your team, the better the communication to clients is likely to be, so this step is crucial.” Last year, Linton & Mac in Aberdeen decided to include L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond as part of all of its colour services – which resulted in a price increase. “We made sure the whole team was on board with the decision, and we were clear on the reasons for adding Smartbond to all of our colour services so they could talk confidently with clients on the subject,” says brand coordinator Autumn Robinson.
REHAZ JEETOOA
URBAN EDGE HAIRDRESSING, LEIGH I introduce price increases twice a year and ensure they are raised selectively and not by a fixed percentage across the board. If the price of colour goes up, cutting and styling remains static and will increase later in the year, so no-one faces a large hike all at once. It’s important to consider all the angles when raising prices, and take into account the service mix of your clients, then make an informed decision. The key to making it work is keeping clients in the loop. We always give between four to six weeks’ notice before a price increase, have information at reception and we directly contact our clients to let them know. To make the most of the price rise, stylists’ targets are moved in line with the increase – so both stylists and the salon can see the financial benefit.
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EXTENSIONS ARE ALREADY the secret weapon of so many stylists, but the time commitment can be off-putting to many potential clients – which is where clip-in extensions come into their own. From adding volume and length for a bride’s big day, giving apprehensive first-timers confidence and even reassuring those whose lifestyle or medical conditions means that everyday extension wear is not recommended, clip-in extensions are what they’re looking for. In order to provide the best design and service to its customers possible, Remi Cachet has revamped its Clip-In Deluxe extensions, with a new design for added comfort and security. Victoria Lynch, founder of Remi Cachet, explained why the brand went back to the drawing board in order to make these Deluxe extensions the best yet. “We wanted to improve on the current design to make the most comfortable clip-in to wear,” she explains. “The strips are extremely slimline to fit to the head, soft against the scalp and securely hold the hair in place. We have also been able to introduce a higher grade of hair quality lasting for more than 12 months, in line with our brand ethos to have the best at an affordable price.” Each set of Clip-In Deluxe extensions include three pieces (2x 12" and 1x 5") to be placed exactly where they’re needed the most. There’s a whopping 34 colours and finishes to choose from, including root stretch finishes, meaning there are options to suit every colour and style – all made from 100 per cent luxury Chinese human hair, which is remy and double drawn. The gift box packaging doubles as the perfect place to store them between uses and the packaging is 100 per cent recyclable, as is the hair itself, thanks to Remi Cachet’s innovative Hair Recycling Scheme. The brand works in partnership with Matter of Trust, a company that turns old extensions turned into absorbent barriers used for everything from containing oil spills to filtering water at storm drains.
@love_your_lox
THE REMI CACHET CLIP-IN DELUXE RANGE IS BACK AND BETTER THAN EVER
For more information about Remi Cachet’s extension options and recycling scheme, call 01642 867213 or visit remicachet.com 21
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#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?
LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
I’m looking at ways of restructuring apprentice training. How can you bring the NVQ completely in-house?
GEMMA AMURA
JOE HEMMINGS, BLOGGS SALONS
IT’S SCIENCE
Be nice and work superhard. My first hair event at the age of 18 opened my eyes to a bigger world of possibilities. I knew I wanted to one day be on that stage. I have worked, assisted and given my everything to this industry. I truly believe you get back what you put in.
Spread the glitter! My mum always said leave a little happiness wherever you go. I pride myself that my smile is my logo, my personality is my business card and how I leave people feeling is my trademark. Education is key. As an educator for 10 years before opening my salon, I value the importance of other educators visiting us. Booking out time for training allows the team to flourish, make mistakes and have fun in a role that can be extremely demanding. Have fun. It’s what’s it all about. I promised the team we will never be so booked up that we don’t have time to enjoy our creations and celebrate every guest. We photograph every client and build an Insta story of them. 22
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KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
I’m afraid I’m going to be controversial in my answer as I am not a fan of the NVQ process when it comes to creating qualified stylists. I realise it’s a process to gain a ‘qualification’, but I’m unaware of any salon owner who believes that a trainee is salon-ready just because they have passed their NVQ. With that in mind, I would leave the NVQ qualification to an outside body and focus on training, in the salon, the practical skills required by a stylist. Now, more controversy! If I was training to be an accountant I don’t think I would learn accountancy on a Monday and then spend the rest of the week sweeping floors, cleaning and making cups of tea. What is that teaching me? Forward-thinking salons need to consider how to get a trainee onto their salon floors in (preferably) under a year. To do that would require a totally different approach. Training would then have two clearly defined areas. NVQ training and practical skills training. As I said previously, I would leave the NVQ to a trusted outside partner and invest more of my time and resources into the practical training. In my perfect world a trainee would spend one day a week on their NVQ, two or even three days on practical training and the rest of the week shadowing and learning salon craft. I would employ support workers to do other salon duties but they would not be on a training programme. They would be people
of any age who want a job, not a career. I can hear many salon owners saying: “but this is impossible”, “I can’t afford it and I don’t have the time to provide the practical training”. Depending on your size I accept this may be true. But this is where we need to start thinking outside the box. Take three salons that are within travelling distance of one another and who are all of the appropriate standard. They form a training ‘co-operative’ and each provide a trainer for one day a week. All three salons allow their trainees to receive three days of practical training each week and one day of NVQ education a week. Currently, over a three-year apprenticeship a trainee might, if they are lucky, receive 144 days of practical skills training (excluding NVQ). If they did that training at the rate of three days a week, they could be trained in 48 weeks, not three years. There is no right or wrong, and this is purely my opinion. However, I believe now is the time for something radically different. And whomever offers fast-track training could have potential trainees queueing outside their door.
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD
20/05/2019 10:35
#BusinessEdit
HAIR AND BEAUTY INDUSTRY LEADING HIGH STREET GROWTH
PHOTOGRAPHIC IMAGE OF THE YEAR: ENTER NOW
SNAP UP THE chance to gain some valuable exposure for your creativity and skills with the NHF/NBF Photographic Image of the Year competition. Stylists, beauty therapists, barbers and make-up artists can enter a professionalstandard single image or collection of images that are good enough for publication in a quality magazine. The categories for 2019 are: Male fashion look (single image); Male fashion look (collection); Female fashion look (single image); and Female fashion look (collection). The competition closes on 6 September and the winners will be revealed on 17 November at the NHF/NBF Business Awards to be held at the St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, London. Discover more at nhf.info/photographic
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Head Gardener
RECENT NEWS THAT TSB has become the first UK bank to promise full refunds to fraud victims comes against a backdrop of rising cybercrime. Research carried out by insurer Hiscox found that 55 per cent of UK businesses have faced a cyberattack in 2019 so far, compared with 40 per cent in total last year. The insurer added that many businesses wrongly felt they were not at risk. “Some salons assume they’re too small to be targeted by cybercriminals, but small businesses can be seen as an easy target,” says NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “It’s vital to protect your business. For example, you must know how to fend off phishing attacks and make sure mobile devices are secure.” For more, visit nhf.info/cyber-threats
John Belfield International
CYBERCRIME CONTINUES TO CLIMB
THE HAIR AND BEAUTY industry is continuing to expand and play a key role in the health of the nation’s high streets, says the latest report from UK retail analyst the Local Data Company. The huge growth in barber shops continued in 2018 with a net increase of 813 shops compared with 624 in the previous year – meaning two barber shops are opening every day across the country. Beauty salons also saw continued expansion, with a net increase of 495 compared with 388 in 2017. Nail salon openings slowed slightly in 2018, dropping from 176 in 2017 to 166 in 2018. The report also found that 62.8 per cent of those planning a night out get their hair cut specially, 53.8 per cent buy new make-up or hair products and almost 39.1 per cent of men pay to have their beard trimmed. Health, beauty and wellbeing retailers continue to dominate the top 10 categories for growth, while beauty salons and barber shops increased their presence in shopping centres. But NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall added a word of warning: “Although the health and beauty sector is doing well, there is a real risk that the market is becoming saturated leading to too many salons and barber shops competing for the same customers.”
Community Award winners announced THE NHF/NBF’S first Community Awards winners were announced at a high-profile event held at the Houses of Parliament. The Awards aim to highlight the amazing and often unsung work that salons and barber shops do to support their local communities. This year’s winners are The Head Gardener in Inverness, who won the fundraising category; and John Belfield International in Stoke-on-Trent, who won the Community Impact category. The Head Gardener salon has raised an amazing £200,000 in aid of the Highland Hospice, while John Belfield International supports a hostel for victims of domestic violence. There were also four highly commended entries in each category. “Our Community Awards shine a spotlight on the achievements of our members in reaching out and making a real difference to people’s lives,” says NHF/NBF chief executive Hilary Hall. “We also hope they will inspire other salons and barber shops to work with their local community.” Find out more at nhf.info/community-awards
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#BusinessEdit
TEACH ME!
BUSINESS BUILDER With summer upon us, make sure you’re skilled in the latest must-have festival trends and showcase your work by sharing incredible images on your social channels. And don’t forget to refresh your retail area with all-important festival essentials like Beauty Boulevard’s Stardust Face, Body And Hair Glitter Kit (£7.99 exc. VAT), which customers can grab on their way out of the salon.
Wedding season is a lucrative time of year and salons that are at the top of their game can capture the hearts of a bride and her bridal party. So refresh your knowledge of timeless wedding styles with Training Solutions’ The Essential Bride Classical Bridal & Event Hair course (£95 exc. VAT).
THE SERVICE STATION In association with
ASK ME ANYTHING THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
JO MARTIN
Marketing director, Sally Europe Q: What are the main trends that I should be looking out for this summer? A: One of the things
Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
ON RIGHT NOW WELL-GROOMED Clients love the natural blended look of balayage. So to help stylists create this trend, pioneering colourist Guy Tang has released his new #Stroke7 goodies: a Rosé Balayage Lightener and two Thicc Balayage activators for up to seven levels of lift. Grab yours now!
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
Remember to make the most of Father’s Day by creating an eye-catching retail display. From male grooming essentials like Burban’s After-Shave Balm (£7.99 exc. VAT) to Proxelli’s slick ZANO clippers (£32.99 exc. VAT), be sure to highlight any specific offers and include prices clearly for easy purchasing.
I really love about summer is seeing the festival fashion trends, both new and old, that people embrace and celebrate as the sun comes out. With people on the lookout for ways to make their look more festivalready, this is a brilliant opportunity to up your retail game by stocking all things colourful, glitzy and glam – such as gems, glitter and sequins for hair and body, bright temporary hair colours, nail decals or temporary tattoos. And, for that extra personal touch, you could even give customers some tips on creative festival styles that they can re-create at home – or in a tent!
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM 24
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/05/2019 10:38
e z i r p e h t Eyes о L’ O R É A L COLOUR TROPHY
Hearts have been all a-flutter, beating that little faster… across eight regions and involving hundreds of hairdressers, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Semi-Finals have delivered on beautiful finishes and nail-biting drama. But now we have the lineup of looks that will be fighting it out in London on Monday 3 June at the Grand Final of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy, the longest running colour competition in the world. It’s going to be one heck of a night – we’ll discover winners of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award and L’Oréal Men’s Image Award, alongside the STAR Award and the Afro Award, too! Whether it’s a sundae of peach sorbets and strawberry gelatos that take the prizes, or richer balayage brondes, the results will dictate high street colour trends for months to come. Want to know which shades are successful as soon as they’re revealed? Simple – stay tuned to @creativeheadmag @lorealpro #LCT19 on Instagram to see all the action. We’ll be at Battersea Evolution on the day with all the finalists and the show team that’s delivering a kaleidoscopic colour stunner, art directed by Tim Hartley, Saks’ Luke Pluckrose and Trevor Sorbie’s Johanna Cree Brown. Follow us as we report live from backstage as well as throughout the Grand Final itself. But first, turn the page to see every look the Grand Final will serve – will your favourite win?
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Lоdо
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Sinead Kelly 1, London
Headmasters, Mayfair
N th West
Saks, Lytham
Not Another Salon, London
Headmasters Great Portland Street, London
Toni&Guy North Audley Street, London
Trevor Sorbie, London
Brooks & Brooks, London
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Francesco Group, Eccleshall
Francesco Group Salon & Academy, Stafford
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
The Colour Room, Stockport
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
Trevor Sorbie, Manchester
Francesco Group, Shrewsbury
Christopher Bennett, Fleetwood
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Francesco Group, Eccleshall
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Sc sh
#LCT19
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Milk, West Lothian
Alan Edwards, Glasgow
Linton & Mac, Aberdeen
N thern Irish
Peter Maud Hair Peace, Belfast
N th East
Contemporary, Stokesley
Saks 2, Doncaster
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Copperfields Hairdressing & Beauty, Perth
Chaplins, Falkirk
Peter Mark Forestside, Belfast
Barbers of BT45, Magherafelt
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Satchi Salons, Sunderland
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Peter Mark Arthur Street, Belfast
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
Hooker & Young 3, Wynyard, Teeside
Conrad Blandford, Sheffield
Salon 45, Magherafelt
Andrew Mulvenna, Belfast
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Bang Hair, York
Hays Salon, Hull
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Western
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Studio.B, Bridgwater
Nashwhite, Warwick
Eastern
FX Hair Studio, Leigh-on-Sea
Bloggs Salons Gloucester Road, Bristol
Laura Leigh Hair & Beauty, Cheltenham
Hair by Jones, Monmouth
Eden Hair, Cannock
Stuart Holmes Salon, Cheltenham
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
Renaissance 2, Ipswich
Gregory Dean Hair Salon, Leigh-on-Sea
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
Cream Hair Associates, Norwich
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Snip’etts, Ely
Malcolm Murphy Hair, Leicester
Snip’etts, Ely
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Maxwells, Biggleswade
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#LCT19
S thern
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY MEN’S IMAGE AWARD
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD
John Carne, Guildford
Simone Thomas, Wokingham
A o
Techniques, Bromley
Headmasters, Brighton
The Gallery Hairdressing, Tunbridge Wells
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY STAR AWARD
Mr Face, Brighton
Stone & Co Hair, Dartford
L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AFRO AWARD
Cutting Room Creative, Leeds
Hype Brixton, London
Francesco Group Knowle, Sollihull
Hairhouse, Sunderland
Headmasters Great Portland Street, London
3Thirty Salon, London
Nicholas James Hair, Leicester
Errol Douglas, London
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23/05/2019 16:10
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Win a hamper of Purelogy! Already a Creative HEAD Club member? Then we’ve got something special for you, too! One lucky member has the opportunity to win a hamper of all the Pureology shampoos and conditioners, worth more than £344. They’ll receive the shampoo and conditioner duo from the Clean Volume, FullFyl, Hydrate, Hydrate Sheer, Precious Oil, Purify, Smooth Perfection and Strengthening lines – all shampoos are sulphate-free and boast 100 per cent vegan formulas. Simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD Club members will receive an FOR E email on 1 June! CREATIV
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FOR SALON OWNERS & MANAGERS
YO U R E SS E N TI A L GU I D E TO T H E N E W S E A SO N
RU N WAY
21/05/2019 13:09
The
y t i l i b a n i a t s Su Issue
in association with 43
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All rights reserved. 2019 Pureology Research, LLC
GET YOUR BEST BLONDE YET! Keep your blonde at its best with Pureology’s NEW Strength Cure Best Blonde. Our new gentle cleansing Shampoo + Condition contain violet toning properties and our exclusive AstaRepair TM to color correct, fight brassiness and help rebuild damaged blonde hair. ANTIFADECOMPLEX® • 100% VEGAN • GENTLE CLEANSING #pureologylove #keepitcolourful
WE NEED TO DO BETTER The future is not looking as bright as it once did for our planet. Climate change is only the tip of the iceberg – or what’s left of it. Water, our most crucial component for life and one of the most used ingredients in cosmetics, is a global concern as demand begins to outstrip supply. Stats from the UN suggest two-thirds of the world will be living in water-stressed conditions by 2025. Plastics pollute our waterways, with the chemicals washed into them contaminating aquatic life and the wider ecosystem. Hair salons need to think about the impact they have. On a daily basis, chemicals are washed down the sink and into the water supply, while electricity, water and heating are consumed in vast quantities. Hairdressing as an industry needs to up its game, especially as eco-conscious consumers – particularly Millennials – apply pressure with their cash. According to Mintel, 57 per cent of shoppers would buy – or boycott – a brand depending on its ethical stance, a figure that’s up 20 per cent on 2018. From packaging to ingredients, customers are demanding products and experiences with less impact on the planet, but which still perform and are readily available. In this Sustainability special from Creative HEAD, in association with Pureology – printed on premium, sustainably sourced paper using alcoholfree printing procedures and vegetable-based ink – we look at ways salons can meet these important trends by behaving ethically and minimising their impact on the environment. Important decisions such as using biodegradable towels and recycling responsibly, reducing water and lights usage, harnessing renewable energy sources and – of course – partnering with green, planet-friendly brands. Be inspired, and make a difference.
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ETHICAL, SUSTAINABLE, COLOURFUL… WELCOME TO THE
bright & beautiful WORLD OF PUREOLOGY
There’s a simple but powerful idea behind Pureology: to create the very best care and styling products for colour-treated hair with absolutely no nasties. The brand was founded in California in 2001 and is committed to sustainability and reducing its carbon footprint, from the ingredients and the packaging to the effect its products have on the environment during and after use. With today’s everincreasing concern about our environmental future, it’s something your clients would love to get on board with! Taking the best that nature has to offer is the route to colourful hair and a bright future, and Pureology leads the way in creating products made with purity and good health in mind. It was vegan long before Instagram influencers made it cool, and all of its shampoos are sulphate-free. Its 100 per cent vegan formulas are made with sustainably-sourced natural plant extracts and without animal products or by-products.
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And it doesn’t stop there – what’s on the outside is just as important as what’s on the inside. Packaging matters, and its bottles are made of 50 per cent post-consumer recycled materials and are 100 per cent recyclable. Even its labels are printed with soy ink. And when it comes to the products, a little goes a long way. Since its formulas are so concentrated, you and your clients only need to use a 10 pence piece-sized amount! That means more than 70 shampoos from one bottle – that’s better value for money and less water is needed in its manufacturing process. Sustainability is the responsibility of everyone. In minimising its environmental impact across the entire lifecycle of its products, Pureology is taking that seriously. Oh, and the results are spectacular, with countless awards to prove how much consumers love it. How are you going to show your clients, and the world, the love?
23/05/2019 11:32
Seven steps to a sustainable future This is what Pureology has achieved so far… and there’s much more to come!
• Reduced the amount of water needed in its manufacturing process • Its bottles are made of 50 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials and are 100 per cent recyclable • Uses up to 50 per cent PCR materials and FSC paper stock for products and printed materials
What you can do in the salon… • Run only full loads in washing machines and choose an energy efficient model • Fix leaky taps and toilets
• Reduced its use of secondary packaging, with cartons made of 100 per cent recycled fibres
• Install high efficiency taps and toilets. Fitting low-flow devices to taps can reduce water usage by as much as 70 per cent!
• Reduced utility energy consumption per bottle
• Rinse out and recycle empty Pureology bottles to minimise waste in landfills
• Reduced waste during the filling and packaging process • Uses US FDA-approved plastics for safety and environmental sustainability
• Use energy-efficient lighting, washing machines, heating/ cooling systems and styling tools
WANT TO KNOW HOW PUREOLOGY CAN HELP YOUR SALON BE A MORE SUSTAINABLE OPTION FOR CLIENTS THAT CARE? CONTACT 0800 0304034 OR VISIT PUREOLOGY.COM
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21/05/2019 13:26
Masters of Craft
Ralph & Rice
Agents of
If we don’t start living sustainability we risk catastrophic impact on our environment. It’s easy to think you can’t affect much change as a small business, but that’s where you’re wrong…
Committing to becoming a more sustainable business isn’t just good for the environment. Ethical spending in the UK has doubled in the past 10 years, according to the Ethical Consumer Markets Report in 2018, and there has been a surge of interest in more clean, ethical and socially conscious brands to meet consumer demand. Sustainability is becoming expected, rather than a way to stand out. “When I moved to London from New Zealand in 2008, the lack of recycling was shocking,” says Anita Rice, co-owner of Ralph & Rice and Buller & Rice in London. “Our industry is notorious for producing excessive waste and our aim is to counteract this.” Dr Denise Baden of the Southampton Business School focuses on sustainability within the hairdressing industry – both the challenges we face and potential solutions. “The biggest issues are how to keep costs down and attract customers,” she believes. “Our research shows that the key cost for most salons is heating water, one of the most energy-intensive activities.” Dr Baden and her team have focused on how too much hot water and chemicals is bad for bills, hair and skin, and the planet. From advocating single shampooing rather than doubling up to the benefits of leave-in conditioner and dry shampoo, small changes can have a big impact.
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Jakeman & Green, Ripon
Jakeman & Green took advantage of a gap in its local market and created an oasis of vegan-friendly hair treatments and sustainable practices. “We decided it would be a beneficial aspect of our salon ethos,” explains co-owner Megan Green. “We have gained a clientele that travels to us based on the products we use and environment we create.” The brands found on the Jakeman & Green shelves reflect this philosophy. “When choosing a brand, it’s important to consider their entire process of manufacture – cruelty free, approved by the Soil Association, and using Fairtrade ingredients,” says Megan. “That’s why we decided on Oway, a dynamic brand that grows ingredients sustainably without the use of harsh chemicals.” Every part of the salon journey is considered to make it as green as possible; recycled wood furniture, exposed copper piping to help heat the room, eco-friendly showerheads and renewable energy providers. She’s also forged links with local businesses so supplies have a lower mileage.
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In collaboration with Habia and VTCT, Dr Baden has launched the Sustainable Stylist and Salon certifications. A visit to the ‘virtual salon’ at ecohairandbeauty.com will see you visiting the areas where the biggest changes can be made, and answer questions along the way to gain the certificate to show off to clients. About 100 salons and 1,500 stylists have been awarded so far, and sustainability practices is now one of the key compulsory teaching points of new apprenticeships. Anne Veck has committed to being green with gusto. She has achieved Carbon Footprint Standard CO2 Neutral certification and is now the UK’s first certified carbon-neutral hairdresser. So what does that actually mean? The Carbon Footprint Standard is an independent certification of a company’s energy use and greenhouse gas emissions. If you manage to achieve it, the certification demonstrates that your company has not only adopted best practice but has also shown real achievements in managing and reducing its carbon emissions and usage. The Anne Veck salons use BlueGEN ceramic fuel cell technology in Oxford to convert gas to electricity, which helps heat water and the building and reduces the salon’s energy consumption by more than 50 per cent. The salons also use infrared heaters made from recycled materials, designed to consume 60 per cent less energy than standard convection heaters and produce no CO2, all while supporting a tree planting project in Kenya. Heather Baker, co-owner of Masters of Craft in Leeds, admits she hasn’t hit ‘peak sustainability’
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Anne Veck
Anne Veck
change
yet but is working on it: “It’s a lifestyle for us, not just salon practice.” Her salon stocks sustainable products and colour with Davines, reuses paint on the walls from a local enterprise and had furniture custom-built from natural and recycled materials. Ecosanitary products are even stocked in the bathroom. They have paired with other businesses which align with their beliefs, including an ethical bank, host events with guest speakers and talks highlighting the hair industry’s sustainable responsibility.
The Chapel, Marlow
“There’s much more awareness from consumers. They recognise brands such as Pureology, which are making strides in sustainability while delivering on performance,” explains Toby Dicker, co-founder of six-strong The Chapel salon group. Switching to a sustainable energy provider is the first of many changes taking place at The Chapel as it adapts to face global challenges to the environment. “It was the right thing to do, even if it is slightly more expensive. We’ve all got a part to play and a responsibility,” Toby argues. He went on to explain that the business used a broker in order to link up with a new energy supplier, Danish energy company Ørsted. Other initiatives offset increased costs, including investing in new gloves for salon use that are sturdy enough be reused for days, rather than going through multiple pairs on a daily basis. Established recycling efforts include separating cardboard, metals (including foils) and plastics, and investigating further initiatives such refilling.
21/05/2019 15:27
TRANSPARENCY IS AT THE CORE OF ITALIAN ORGANIC HAIRCARE BRAND OWAY. FROM FARM TO CHAIR, ITS AIM IS TO BRING CLARITY TO THE MURKY WATERS OF ‘CLEAN’ BEAUTY There’s no questioning Oway’s dedication to sustainable beauty and business practices. This family-owned company has been searching for truth and real value in its business since its inception nearly 80 years ago. Organic is all well and good, but Oway takes things one step further with biodynamic farming practices. Ingredients are grown in soil that has not been contaminated with chemicals and pesticides for the better part of a century, ever since the family bought the land nestled near Bologna in Italy. You can’t get a higher grade of ethical and eco-friendly farming than this. Ingredients are not manipulated during their growth, each crop is planted at the time of year it would naturally grow and they’re
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only harvested when they are ready. Every ingredient is treated this way, even down to the water, which is untouched by solvents. This transparency extends to the businesses that Oway pairs with – including other biodynamic farmers and Fairtrade-certified companies – and the salons that choose to stock its products. It understands that eco-conscious clients are educated and passionate about the choices that they make, including the salons they choose to visit, and expect the service to be equal to their expectations. And it’s not just the products – Oway’s colour charts are printed on sugar cane-derived paper, while the brushes and bowls are made from sturdy wood and straw components. The capes are crafted from maize, and regenerated cotton gowns give new life to excess cotton scraps in factories. But how do the products perform? Let clients see for themselves. Dedicated sampling stations within salons are handmade from wood in Bologna, all with purpose-fitted components, letting you create prescriptive samples for each client. Delivered in glass jars with aluminium lids, clients can bring these jars and product bottles back to the salon to recycle. Each product is created as cleanly and as greenly as possible. Glass and aluminium can both be recycled continually, and the products come with no additional wasteful packaging such as cardboard boxes or wrapped plastic. Oway’s dedication to sustainable practices goes further than most brands in the world can manage. From the point of origin through to the end of a clients’ experience in the salon, Oway is not interested in token labelling, it always chooses to go one step further. It has always invested in projects to make a real difference in the world, long before it became trendy to do so. For example, its existing plastic clean-up initiatives helped to provide ground level support for The Ocean Cleanup project. With very minimal and always recycled plastic currently used in its products, Oway is always innovating and adapting, currently on track to be completely plastic-free by 2021.
23/05/2019 11:34
PERRY PATRASZEWSKI, ANDI HINTEREGGER AND MATT GEBBIE, CO-FOUNDERS, BLUE TIT SALONS, LONDON
Model image: creative direction by BlueTit x Oway, styling by Sally Anne Bolton, make-up by Marco Antonio, photography by Danny Lowe.
“WE WANT TO MAKE A CONSCIOUS EFFORT TO HAVE LESS IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT AROUND US AND ON A GLOBAL SCALE, SO WE ARE PROUD TO BE PARTNERING WITH A COMPANY THAT SHARES OUR VISION AND VALUES”
FOR MORE INFORMATION ON HOW OWAY CAN HELP YOU STEP UP YOUR SUSTAINABILITY GAME, CALL 01283 586986 OR VISIT OWAY.CO.UK
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20/05/2019 11:40
steps to a sustainable salon experience Want to make a change but don’t know where to start? Here’s our guide to curating a sustainable salon experience for all
Rethink foil
Offer refill stations Encouraging consumers to turn their backs on the disposable life becomes much easier when you help them reuse what they have. For example, Electric Professional is launching glazed stoneware bottles this summer that clients can take to Electric salons to be refilled with shampoo and conditioner, while bottles of shampoo from Source Essentielle from L’Oréal Professionnel can be refilled at certain salons.
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Unless foil has been rinsed after use and is completely free from colour it can’t be recycled so will go into landfill with all other waste. So this is why Paper Not Foil is such a good idea – it works in the same way as any foil or meche – its chalk-like texture means it grips well to the hair and it’s made from ground down industrial waste from the construction industry, using 96 per cent less energy than making foil.
Donate hair
You’ll know how much hair you sweep up; wouldn’t it be great if some of that could be reused? Anyone cutting off a minimum of seven inches can donate it to The Little Princess Trust, which then uses it to make wigs for children suffering hair loss. Replacing loads of extensions? Recycle old wefts with Remi Cachet’s Hair Recycling Scheme. It works in partnership with Matter of Trust, a firm that turns old extensions into absorbent barriers that are used for filtering storm drains and containing oil spills.
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Monitor the wet and dry Water-saving showerheads such as ecoheads are a quick and easy change to make that will help to save you money as well as help prevent an emerging water crisis. Similarly, although it might sound counter intuitive, disposable but biodegradable towels can be a lot more efficient and save on electricity and water. “Knowing I’m doing my bit to help by using less electricity as we have no need for tumble dryers, less water as we don’t need washing machines, and a towel that breaks down in 100 days or less when thrown away, I’m a massive fan,” says Ricky Walters, owner of Salon64 in London.
Refresh your colour
When you need to kit out your salon with There are options, honestly! new furniture, there are two sustainable There are more naturally-derived choices routes to choose from – you can than ever – Organic Colour Systems, Oway, either buy new from eco-friendly Davines and Aveda can all provide professional retailers or opt for upcycled pieces. alternatives that deliver incredible results, or you The beauty of picking pre-loved can go fully vegan with henna-based alternatives furniture is that you’re giving a home from Oway and Botanēa from L’Oréal Professionnel. to a something that could have To keep colour looking fab at home, try Infuse ended up in landfill, and secondMy Colour shampoo from My Hair Care. The hand furniture can give your interiors ‘bespoke’ version MADE FOR ME is blended a cool, retro look. At Buller & Rice in by hairdressers in the salon, and clients Stoke Newington, shelving is made can get the vegan tone-perfecting from recycled yoghurt pots and shampoo refilled there, too. compressed hay.
Choose local or ethical business partners
Pairing with local businesses can help to lower your carbon footprint, as well as supporting your local community. Whether it’s refreshments or other suppliers, do some research to see what you might be missing out on. There are other partnerships you could be overlooking as well – did you know there are ethical banks and building societies whose business models are designed to make sure they have no negative impact on the environment or on society? Rest easy knowing you’re not contributing towards environmental or social damage, take a look at Ecology Building Society or Triodos Bank.
Get a little wild…
Take a look at your surroundings and consider what you could do to make a difference. At Rae Palmer’s WeLove salon in Petersfield they plan the garden for every season, thinking about how they can attract birds and the bees and grow herbs and plants that can be used in the salon, too.
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Upcycle furniture for your interiors
Get your light right
LED lighting takes up a fraction of the energy of older lighting options, and come in myriad shapes and styles to suit your aesthetic. And the power behind that lighting? You can opt for green energy suppliers. Just last month Britain’s entire electric grid managed to go coal-free for entire week. You can check what percentage of green energy your current provider uses, or switch to an entirely green provider.
Clean green
Make your salon clean AND green by opting for eco-friendly cleaning products. By avoiding harsh chemicals present in more traditional cleaning products, you can reduce irritation and make your space safer and less toxic for those with allergies. Eco-friendly cleaning products also have the added benefit of coming in recyclable packaging. And don’t forget the candles – soy-based candles are vegan and better for air quality than paraffin or beeswax.
23/05/2019 12:26
Inside story FOWLER35, LONDON
Sustainability was at the forefront of Darren Fowler’s mind when it was time to give Fowler35 a makeover and, having worked with eco-warrior Livia Firth on editorial shoots and red carpet events over the years, he knew who to turn to. “She’s instilled in me a belief that it’s the small things that count, and we can all make a difference by making both small and big changes,” he says. A survey of the space was completed by eco-specialists who looked at energy, water and heat, which all helped with the brief. The chairs are Eco Fun by Christophe Pillet for Maletti, which use recycled padding and recyclable aluminium for the frames and bases. Bamboo was selected for the units and shelving areas because it grows faster than hardwood trees making it more sustainable and environmentally friendly. Alongside an upcycled table, handheld mirrors and red chairs from a working men’s club dotted about, there are lots of small elements that help make a difference. All bulbs are LEDs, staff own reusable gloves for colouring, and retail products are sold to clients with reusable totes rather than plastic bags.
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fusion power THE NEW INESSENCE RANGE FROM SYSTEM PROFESSIONAL FUSES THE BEST OF SCIENCE WITH INSPIRATION FROM NATURE One in three clients admit to being ingredients-conscious – checking labels and looking to incorporate more natural ingredients into their routine – yet 90 per cent of clients are also using regular products as they’re concerned that natural will be ultimately less effective. But those consumers are wrong to think natural means weaker – let them revel in the power of nature with the new Inessence collection from System Professional. The entire range features up to 96 per cent natural origin ingredients and is free from sulphates, silicones and parabens for a fresh, professional finish. Created using acai stem cell extracts to return hair to a more manageable and healthy appearance, the range contains: INESSENCE SHAMPOO Improve manageability and smoothness with light moisturisation INESSENCE CONDITIONER Reduce frizz and internal hair fibre friction instantly
INESSENCE HAIR MASK Ideal for an intense weekly treatment for smoother, frizz-free hair INESSENCE HAIR SPRAY Use daily to protect from UV and reduce friction and frizz
Inessence is the perfect merging of natural ingredients and System Professional’s dedication to luxury and passion for transformative hair results. Its advanced biomimicry technology means Inessence emulates nature’s time-tested patterns for a perfect finish.
FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 020 3901 1163 OR VISIT SYSTEMPROFESSIONAL.COM
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t s i l o c e e Th
HEIR IENTS KEEP T L C P L E H D N ON A A GREEN SAL SOULMATE... R E E L B IV A L E IN D A T O S T U UR S RTNERS LET’S FIND YO . YOU NEED PA E M O H T A N CLEA CONSCIENCE
Got eco clients who want luminous shine and a little white hair camouflage? Check out Botanēa, the 100 per cent herbal professional colour from L’Oréal Professionnel.
In-salon service
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Get a little Cali-cool with the colourful world of Pureology – this is a “no nasties” line of zero-sulphate shampoos and 100 per cent vegan formulas all created to care for coloured hair.
Using up to 96 per cent natural origin ingredients, Inessence from System Professional avoids sulphates, silicones and parabens to deliver rejuvenated-looking hair.
pureology.com
systemprofessional.com
Say hello to Redken Natural + Science – 100 per cent vegan, sulphate-, silicone- and paraben-free versions of Redken cult favourites Extreme, Color Extend and All Soft.
OCS No Limits hair colour is a semi-permanent dye made from organic ingredients, making the colour process easier, less damaging and more natural for clients keen to change it up.
redken.co.uk
organiccoloursystems.com
RRP from £19.95
RRP from £18.50
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RRP from £21.30
RRP £15.95
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Oway has the lot – we’re talking luxurious and ethical professional haircare, styling and colour, perfect for clients keen to detoxify themselves from chemical agents.
RRP from £6.30 oway.co.uk
Combining nature, scientific expertise and professional performance, Source Essentielle from L’Oréal Professionnel lets clients refill shampoo bottles directly at the salon.
RRP from £18
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
IdHAIR Elements Xclusive Care and Styling ranges feature a Nordic design with a focus on recycled plastic. All Elements Xclusive products are sulphate- and paraben-free and contain nonallergen perfume.
One of the original green brands in hair, Aveda’s new launches include Rinseless Refresh, a micellar hair and scalp refresher, and new Heat Relief Thermal Protector & Conditioning Mist, which shields hair from heat up to 230˚C.
idhairuk.com
aveda.co.uk
RRP from £24
RRP from £4.40
Manchester-based Stranded Hair Group has unveiled Salon Exclusive Hair, a 100 per cent remy human hair extension brand that plans to send plant seeds with purchases to inspire salons to re-use packaging as plant pots.
The Tea Tree range is guaranteed not to be tested on animals. It also has incredible aromatic and natural extracts, and is committed to helping Reforest’Action plant 750,000 trees this year.
RRP from £8.95
In-salon service
salon-success.co.uk
strandedprofessional.com
PETA-certified cruelty-free and vegan, Infuse My Colour shampoos infuse hair with colour pigment as your client washes at home, keeping your colour work looking wonderful.
RRP £15.95
my-haircare.com
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It’s really tough to recycle foil that’s used for colour, so why not try Paper Not Foil? It’s made from recycled materials from the construction industry that’s turned into paper to be used in the same way as any foil or meche!
Salon price from £36 papernotfoil.co.uk
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NEW! LETS GET PERSONAL! #INFUSEMYCOLOUR
Infuse My Colourâ„¢ Made For Me Service For truly unique & Personalized salon experience! Infinite mixing possibilities , colour enhancing shampoos and conditioners for most creative colourists! IG: @My.Haircareofficial #infusemycolour E: info@my-haircare.com
www.my-haircare.com/professional
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
EDUCATION
EVENTS
INSPIRATION
CREATIVE HEAD STORE
COMPETITIONS
EXCLUSIVE
Juicy rainbow hues for a summer of love. ‘Daydreamer’ by Slunks combines wavy textures with gorgeous colour blends to embody a modern flower-child spirit
2019
In conversation with… Siobhan Golden. Press play on the latest of our video series, where we talk tones with the Wella Professionals Colour Creative
creativeheadmag.com
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Find out who’s made it through – the Most Wanted shortlist will be unveiled EXCLUSIVELY online on 11 June and The It List finalists follow on 12 June
creativeheadmagofficial
The Coterie: In Session saw men take centre stage, with Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor (pictured) and barber Liam Campbell
@creativeheadmag
21/05/2019 13:11
CREATIVE HEAD’S BUSINESS NETWORKING EVENT FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS
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BRILLIANT BUSINESS NETWORKING
DUBLIN SUNDAY 3 NOVEMBER 2019
09.00-17.00 Radisson Blu Royal Hotel, Golden Lane, Dublin 8
Tickets €100 plus VAT*
BOOKING NOW
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SALONSMART OR CALL +44 (0)1434 610944 *VAT at UK rate of 20 per cent
@CREATIVEHEADMAG #SALONSMARTIRE Image Skillnet offers part-funding for education and networking events in the hair and beauty sector in the Republic of Ireland. To benefit from a 25 per cent saving on the cost of your Salon Smart ticket, sign up for FREE membership and purchase your ticket either over the phone on 071 964 0438, or online at imageskillnet.ie/event-category/events
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Photography by Andy Lane for the #WeAreLorealPro campaign November 2018
#HariSalem
KING OF THE
KING’S
ROAD
AND FULHAM ROAD …AND LEDBURY ROAD …AND DON’T FORGET PARSONS GREEN! LADIES OF LONDON WHO LIKE THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE HAVE BEEN FLOCKING TO HARI’S SALONS FOR 40 YEARS. BUT NOW HARI SALEM IS LOOKING TO FIND A SLOWER PACE OF LIFE. HE TALKS TO CREATIVE HEAD EDITOR AMANDA NOTTAGE ABOUT HAIR LEGENDS, THE JOYS OF BEING ALONE, AND, ERM, BULL SEMEN BY HIS OWN ADMISSION, Hari Salem is a bit of a loner. He’s not pally with other industry types, doesn’t do social media and has renovated a house in the middle of a forest to escape to every weekend. But that escape is set to become a more permanent retreat as Hari, the mastermind behind the iconic west London Hari’s salon group, is retiring. Again. “You’re either in the fast lane or on the hard shoulder – you can’t choose your speed anymore. For decades I’ve been with people all the time. Right now, we’ve got nearly 200 staff. Every day there’s something to deal with and it’s quite draining. So the idea of actually going there and not talking to anybody…” he trails off, grinning at the prospect. It’s a world away from the ultra-modern townhouse in South Kensington where we sit chatting over coffee and pastries. Hari is a consummate host, as you would expect from someone who’s been delivering five-star customer service to an exacting clientele for so long. He’s attempted retirement before, and it didn’t quite work
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out. “At that point the salons were heaving, packed on a Saturday, sometimes with clients standing against the wall. And then I retired and just went and disappeared. But the business didn’t like that so I had to come back in to work and concentrate on staff training.” He’ll certainly be missed once he retires again – while you might not see him regularly in the press, he is held in high affection. Lucia Van Der Post of the FT’s How To Spend It magazine has said: “Hari doesn’t strut and grab the limelight, but in his understated way he’s as cool and hip as they come.” His absolute lack of ego is striking; whether that’s just down to his shyness is hard to say, but it’s impressive considering his salon brand is as relevant as ever. This introversion is something that’s dogged him since his family emigrated to the UK from Iran, and proved crucial when he came to choosing his vocation in life. He considered carpentry, but thought that this would fail to pull him out
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of his insular ways, so the other option was hairdressing, a job that would force him to talk and interact, often with beautiful women. He started at the top, assisting the legendary Leonard in his Mayfair salon back in the late ’60s, where stars such as Twiggy and Jean Shrimpton were customers. He must have learned a lot, right? He laughs and shakes his head. “I worked there for four years and I didn’t get any training.” When he decided to go it alone, the first Hari’s on London’s Sydney Street opened with a decidedly Gothic feel, featuring the contents of a closed church – the reception desk was a pulpit. He lived above it and, working with friends, the party often continued upstairs when the salon doors were closed. It was a favourite time of his: “It was new. I was young, I was ignorant. I mean, I made so many mistakes!” Whatever he was doing, he was doing something right – clients included Bianca Jagger, the Rolling Stones and Debbie Harry. However, he’s frank about the challenges he faced. “We were really busy, but I just didn’t make any money, ” he laughs. “We had a receptionist going away with his boyfriend every weekend to Paris; somebody else bought a flat. And I was just working, so busy, and thinking ‘well, I’m surviving’. It wasn’t until I met my wife that it was all sorted. I owed so much money left, right and centre and I was really shocked. And then she went on the reception and within a year I’d paid it all back!”
Now with four salons in iconic locations such as the Kings Road, Ledbury Road, Fulham Road and Parsons Green, Hari’s manages to blend a cool edge with the more conservative, traditional blow dry-driven beauty of local luxe lovers. Each salon has its own vibe and is decorated with careful thought and a little humour. The most recent, Fulham Road, is a blooming testament to the move to sustainable beauty, and with a leaf-laden interior perfect for Instagram, while the King’s Road salon once used refurbished telephone boxes and dismembered mannequins as furnishings and had a resident DJ. Services have always been innovative, too, and have garnered huge swathes of positive press. Treatments have proved esoteric over the years, featuring ingredients from beluga caviar to nightingale droppings. Hari caused quite the kerfuffle in 2007 with the introduction of a protein-rich treatment that boasted a surprising ingredient. “I was having dinner with my kids and my son’s best friend was with us, and his dad was a farmer. I was talking about how we needed something in the salon, a treatment, because hair needs protein. I jokingly said, ‘well, it’s like sperm’. My son’s friend said: ‘My dad has bull sperm because we breed cows’, so his dad supplied us with the stuff!” The bull sperm treatment got plenty of attention. “I was getting calls from all over the world from people wanting to get their hands on it, and I
“You’re either in the fast lane or on the hard shoulder – you can’t choose your speed anymore”
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#HariSalem
The changing face of Hari’s over four decades
never followed it up. I could have retired!” Today, a CBD oil treatment is winning over the beauty editors, so it’s clear that he still knows the power of a gossip-worthy ingredient. He must have got such a tickle from it all, creating all that PR rumpus? He looks surprised at the suggestion. “You have no idea how shy I am, to the point where it is embarrassing,” he admits. “I was offered the chance to go on TV so many times. But I just couldn’t sleep. Three, four weeks prior to the day I was getting freaked out, I wanted to have a breakdown, forget all about it. So I cancelled. I just couldn’t do it.” But despite his selfprofessed wish to spend time alone, what radiates from Hari is a love for the people around him. So it makes sense that it’s training his team that has occupied Hari’s time most in recent years. “You have to have a lot of patience and care, and that’s why I never passed the role on, you need somebody who’s nurturing all the time,” he explains. What’s surprising is that everyone on the floor at Hari’s is self-employed, yet his commitment and investment in training his staff is unwavering. Isn’t he worried that employees will soak up all that education, that knowledge, and take it elsewhere? “Because I trained them from early on, you get loyalty and you can’t buy that,” he says. And the
thing is, he admits, not many salon owners spend two, three days a week training people. “I do, and I was taking £1,500 to £1,800 a day on the floor. I mean who would do that? It’s bonkers. But for me it’s the best investment ever,” he grins. Now, he offers select long-serving staff a chance to buy-in to make the business more of a co-op, giving them a reason to be even more invested in what’s going on day to day. A cursory glance at Hari’s price list might raise the eyebrows of those outside of West London, but with the property prices he admits it’s tough. “Overheads are phenomenal,” he sighs. “My rent in Brompton Road [his previous flagship salon] went from £132,000 to £301,000. There’s only so much you can charge, and you need to give more and more in terms of service to justify the price.” And Hari can point to his loyal client base for justification – he speaks of cutting the hair of four generations of one family – and the business is looking at more sites. But it’s clear that he feels the salon’s 40th anniversary is the right time to move on. Both his son Lucan and daughter Tassie are now involved in running the business and there’s also Ellie Freeman, who will head up staff training (Hari describes her as “just perfect”). He’s confident that his salons will be in safe hands, leaving him free to finally relax. A job well done, Hari.
“You have no idea how shy I am, to the point where it is embarrassing. I was offered the chance to go on TV so many times. But I just couldn’t sleep”
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IT’S ALL CHANGE FOR THE TRENDVISION AWARD 2019! WELLA PROFESSIONALS IS SHAKING IT UP FOR THE DECISIVE REGIONAL HEATS. WELCOME TO…
#WELLACREATIVE #WELLACREATIVE PART INTERACTIVE SHOW, part competition, the #WellaCreativeRemix has thrown together some of the most creative minds in the industry with the hottest colour talents! Eagle-eyed judges looked on as competitors recreated their looks live before the catwalk event and reveal of those who made it through to the TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Final, which will take place at London’s iconic Roundhouse on 30 September. With a brand-new look and feel, the regional heats presented a brilliantly buzzy atmosphere with a live DJ and demos from show teams D&J Ambrose and HOB Academy and special appearances from Medusa, KH Hair, DNA Artspace, P.Kai Hair and more to entertain and inspire the crowd.
REMIXED AND REMASTERED
The looks created during each heat showcased the incredible talent and hair wizardry from some of the country’s star stylists. With two new categories for 2019 – Color Artist of the Year and Creative Artist of the Year – the stakes were high; no-one wanted to let the chance of showing their work at the UK & Ireland Final slip through their fingers. Alongside the winners of the Male Grooming and Runway categories, the four finalists in each heat Join us at the nal will meet in London for that all-important final. UK & Ireland Fi ing’s ss re Joined by the winners of the Ireland heat, which for one of haird g and takes place on 19th August, they will compete at most exhilaratin the year. ghts of the TrendVision Award 2019 UK & Ireland Final entertaining ni r shows from la cu ta ec sp for the chance to be crowned the Gold winner in With tworking, a full ne s, on ic ir ha a spectacular evening show at the Roundhouse creativity, hair programme of in Camden. Congratulations to all the UK d more, it’s an and fashion TrendVision Award Regional Winners! to be missed
not
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
E REMIX SCOTLAND & NORTH-EAST
NORTH
MIDLANDS
SOUTH
UT om K Omag.c C E CH head list of e ll ativr the fulists! e r c fo ďŹ na Tickets will be on sale in July at wellaeducationuk.com. For more information, call 0845 6018128 or email wellaevents@cotyinc.com CREATIVE HEAD
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daze
School
LEARNING HOW TO BECOME A GREAT EDUCATOR TAKES YEARS OF PRACTICE, BUT EVERYONE STARTS SOMEWHERE – AND ALLILON EDUCATION’S TEACHER TRAINING COURSE IS A FANTASTIC PLACE TO BEGIN YOUR JOURNEY AS AN EDUCATOR WE’VE ALL HAD a moment like it, sat in an audience or classroom feeling so inspired you’re practically fizzing with excitement, desperate to start creating… all thanks to a talented teacher. If you’ve always wanted to become one of those sources of inspiration, with the audience hanging on to your every word and returning to their salons full of excitement, then investing in a course specifically for educators is the best place to start. Allilon Education’s Teacher Training course, running from 23 September, helps to develop stylists’ abilities to become excellent educators. Whether you’re an experienced stylist who is new to teaching or you’re looking to develop members of your team into in-house educators, this four-day course will leave participants ready to pass on their skills. Covering demonstration training, presentation skills and how to teach within a workshop setting, Allilon educators
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are on-hand to pass on useful hints and structures to clearly convey information, while advising on how to be thoroughly engaging for your audience. Thanks to a maximum teacher/student ratio of one to six, participants get crucial hands-on education and attention from some of Allilon’s top educators. Located at the bright and airy Allilon Education Academy above the Ena salon in London’s Holborn, students can enjoy complimentary refreshments and lunches at local restaurants with their educators for excellent value-for-money. Not everyone has the knack for teaching – a mediocre teacher will simply pass on a technique – but truly great teachers will inspire, energise and challenge their students. By developing yourself and your team, you’re investing in sustainable development and independence to help train and grow the next generation of stylists in your salon.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
The facts in a
flash!
ALLILON EDUCATION TEACHER TRAINING COURSE
23 September Four-day course
£1,400 (exc. VAT) Teacher to student ratio of 1 to 6 To book your place, or for more information, call 020 3301 5451 or visit alliloneducation.com/hair-courses 45
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R A T S K C O R BLONDES DON’T LET ANYTHING STAND IN YOUR CLIENTS’ WAY – LEAST OF ALL WISHY-WASHY COLOURS. ROCK ON WITH THE LATEST BOLD TECHNIQUES AND PRODUCTS FROM REVLON PROFESSIONAL
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
THE SATISFACTION THAT comes from nailing the perfect hair colour is equal parts the final look and how the client feels. Revlon Professionals is dedicated to creating hair colours and techniques that give you – and your client – the world at your fingertips. We’re living in an era of empowerment, where women and men alike can be whoever they want to be. Take the current ’90s revival – the killer comeback of bold, unapologetic attitudes and individuality is reaching a whole new generation. This is today’s blonde – a mix of choppy layers and multi-dimensional shades that can be personalised to
allow every woman to reinvent herself and go full-on blonde without fear or reservation. For this look (pictured opposite), gold and strawberry blondes were subtly shaped in irregular sections to achieve a distinctive, iconic look. Revlon Professional’s colour products have been designed to work together intrinsically and effortlessly, so you can create colours to suit every personality. From Revlonissimo Colorsmetique Intense Blonde colours with delicate reflects to the Nutri Color Crème 3-in-1 cocktails of colour, care and shine that clients can take home with them, you’re ready to rock every shade.
For more information on how to rock blondes, call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.com @revlonprofessionaluk #RevlonProfessional #Blonde #CreateBoldly #LiveBoldly CREATIVE HEAD
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Deflect Add an extra layer of defence against colour fade. The new MAGN±T line-up from Revlon Professional is here to repel those external factors that ruin your hard work WITH SO MUCH talk about sustainability, the environment and the damage we’re causing the planet, we can’t ignore the effects that pollution has on our hair. It’s something that more and more clients are raising as a concern and being prepared for their questions can give you the edge. Skin cells may regenerate but hair shafts don’t. Colour precision also takes a hit from pollutants, with imprecise and unreliable results because of damage to the cuticle, along with dulled vibrancy and exposure to more damage during colouring. Which is where the MAGN±T collection from Revlon Professional comes in – a new and innovative line that works seamlessly alongside your existing products, MAGN±T follows years of research into how to offset the effects of pollution. The innovative Pollupl±x System is a clever combination of antioxidants, keratin reinforcers and shielding ingredients that all work together with one goal: neutralising and repelling the pollutant particles from hair, reducing the effects of compromised water quality, reinforcing and shielding the hair fibre to reveal the best version of your colour results. So what is it you need to be aware of on a daily basis? Poor water quality can interfere with colour precision and performance, and high concentrations of mineral salts leave hair dull and rough. Microscopic solid pollution particles also deposit straight from the air onto the hair, damaging the cuticle and even the internal hair shaft. And, of course, there’s also the effects of sun radiation – UV degrades hair colour and damages the hair protein structure, inducing premature hair ageing. MAGN±T acts like a magnetic field around the hair to repel further damage from pollutants while protecting the hair fibre, allowing your true colour creations to shine through.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
and protect
Colour and lightening
Care services
STEP ONE: De-pollute with MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Neutralizer to fight free radical formation and neutralise the negative effects of metals on hair.
STEP ONE: Cleanse with MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Micellar Cleanser to remove external pollutants from hair and scalp and neutralise poor water effects.
STEP TWO: Cleanse with MAGN±T Color Lock Repairing Shampoo to reduce metallic deposits and build-up, neutralise the negative effects of poor water quality, and help the inner hair structure recover.
STEP TWO: Moisturise with MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Restoring Mask, reducing particle deposits and free radical formation.
STEP THREE: Protect with MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Daily Shield, a lightweight daily shield against environmental aggressors and UV damage until their next wash.
STEP THREE: Protect with MAGN±T Anti-Pollution Daily Shield, a lightweight daily shield against environmental aggressors and UV damage.
Make a stand against the effects of pollution with Revlon Professional. Call 020 7391 7440 or visit revlonprofessional.com @revlonprofessionaluk #RevlonProfessional #magnetRP #CreateBoldly #LiveBoldly CREATIVE HEAD
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LET THE RIGHT
IN e d n o bl CREATE AND CELEBRATE BEAUTIFUL BLONDES FOR YOUR CLIENTS WITH THE COMPLETE PAUL MITCHELL PLATINUM BLONDE COLLECTION
The best innovations come from a need – and we needed to see more of Paul Mitchell’s excellent Platinum Blonde Shampoo. Already one of the brand’s bestsellers, clearly someone over there has been listening as it has unveiled its latest launch for summer – the Platinum Blonde Conditioner and Platinum Blonde Toning Spray – to form a full blonde-perfecting system. Now blonde clients can enjoy incredible quality at-home care from start to finish. Paul Mitchell’s commitment to products that deliver a true blonde with clarity starts with its innovative lifting products… 50
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HIGHER g n i l l ca
WITH FOUR FAST-ACTING LIGHTENERS TO CHOOSE FROM, PAUL MITCHELL IS ON-HAND TO GIVE YOUR CLIENTS THE LIFT THEY’RE LOOKING FOR
SKYLIGHT
HAND-PAINTING CLAY LIGHTENER • Ideal for precise, freehand application techniques including balayage and highlights • Rice flour and kaolin clay help by forming an outer shell during processing that doesn’t completely dry-out or flake, allowing for zero transfer and eliminating the need for foil or non-transfer plastic • Mixes easily with Paul Mitchell Cream Developer for up to seven levels of lift • 100 per cent vegan
LIGHTEN UP
ON- AND OFF-SCALP BLONDING PASTE • Quick and gentle lift of up to five levels • Suitable for both on- and off-scalp techniques, especially on more fine and fragile hair • The light and fluffy texture resists drying and ensures an easy application
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DUAL-PURPOSE LIGHTENER
AN ON- AND OFF-SCALP POWDER LIGHTENER • Lifts up to seven levels quickly and evenly • Natural conditioning agents and oils, including jojoba oil and castor bean, help to retain moisture • The dust-free encapsulation process helps to buffer the lightening process to reduce damage • 100 per cent vegan
SYNCHROLIFT
AN ULTRA-QUICK BLUE POWDER LIGHTENER • Exclusive balanced bleach technology gives up to seven levels of lift both quickly and gently • Mixes to a creamy consistency that resists swelling when applied • A dust-free, blue-tinted formula which features zero fragrance for a pleasant colouring experience • 100 per cent vegan 53
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FOR THE love OF BLONDE
THE NEW PAUL MITCHELL PLATINUM ADDITIONS KEEP YOUR BLONDE WORK LOOKING CLEAN AND SERENE FOR LONGER, THANKS TO SOPHISTICATED FORMULATIONS There are few things more satisfying than creating a perfectly lifted, bright and brass-free blonde. Clean, neutral and cool blondes remain hugely popular for 2019, but maintaining such pure tones are a daily challenge. Protect your colour work between sessions by encouraging your clients to invest in the right athome colour care system for their look. Paul Mitchell’s Platinum Blonde Shampoo has been a winner for many stylists since its
introduction – but why should its powerful platinum toning power stop there? Complete care comes in the form of the new Platinum Blonde Conditioner and Platinum Blonde Toning Spray. Forming a simplified and perfected three-step system to banish unwanted brassiness, usher in a new era of blonde care. The violet formula and pigments cool off brassy tones while ensuring hair is radiantly shiny and deeply conditioned.
PLATINUM BLONDE SHAMPOO
PLATINUM BLONDE CONDITIONER
This violet-tinted, colour-enhancing formula brings out the best in blonde, white and silver hair while softening and adding shine. 100 per cent vegan, gluten-free, no animal testing
Hydrate ends and keep cool tones shining through with this shine-boosting, colour-enhancing formula. Gluten-free, no animal testing
PLATINUM BLONDE TONING SPRAY Add shine and refine your blonde work with this conditioning spray, featuring shimmery violenttinted pigments. 100 per cent vegan, gluten-free, no animal testing
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y r e v o c e R
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
E M I T
G TENIN H G I L D TAINE TECT AND S U S RO AT LE TH . AIM TO P HELL B A T I EV ITC OLL IT’S IN TAKE ITS T ITH PAUL M IC REPAIR CAN ERFECT W E DRAMAT P LOND B R E FOREV
Whether it’s honey-hued highlights or pure, icy silver, there’s an unavoidable change to hair texture once lightened. You can use all the bond-protecting products you like within the salon, but once your client leaves your chair your work is at the mercy of their at-home care. Make the transition that much smoother with Paul Mitchell Forever Blonde Dramatic Repair. From weakened strands to dull and lifeless reflects, this intensive nourishing spray helps to bring life back to hair. It's packed with KerActive protein to restore weak and depleted hair, while safflower oleosomes penetrate deeply into the hair fibre to replace lost nutrients and suppleness. Macadamia nut oil also provides a welcome boost of hydration for parched hair. This multi-tasking spray treatment helps with smoothing, strengthening and replenishing blondes which look past their best. Colour safe and paraben free, it’s a simple addition to clients’ post-wash routine; simply spray throughout damp hair and dry or style as normal, and let its anti-static formula give a soft, smooth finish that’s frizz and tangle-free.
WHATEVER BLONDE AMBITIONS YOUR CLIENTS HAVE, HELP THEM ACHIEVE MORE. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 0845 659 0011 OR VISIT SALON-SUCCESS.CO.UK 57
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/05/2019 11:33
IN ‘POWER TO THE YOUTH’, THE TEAM FROM RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL GEORGE SQUARE – INCLUDING 2018 IT LIST IT GUY PADDY MCDOUGALL – GETS PLAYFUL WITH COLOUR AND TEXTURE PHOTOGR APHY BY ALEKSANDR A MODRZEJEWSK A CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Rainbow Room International George Square. MAKE-UP Allana McTrusty. STYLING Rebecca Donaldson
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THE INNOCENTS IT’S ALL ABOUT KEEPING IT REAL FOR LEEDS SALON TINT, WITH A COLLECTION CENTRED ON TAKING AN HONEST APPROACH TO CUTTING, COLOUR AND STYLING. URBAN AND ANDROGYNOUS, IT CELEBRATES INDIVIDUALITY. JUST BE YOURSELF PHOTOGR APHY BY X ANTHE HUTCHINSON CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR The TINT Creative Team. MAKE-UP Abi Hylton CREATIVE HEAD
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Scene THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
League of
GENTLEMEN CLIPPERS WERE POISED at The Coterie: In Session’s first men’s hair event at RIDA Studios in East London, where Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist Jody Taylor and supremely skilled barber Liam Campbell brought fresh grooming takes to a captivated audience. Leading style journalist Lee Kynaston played host, enticing insights and funny snapshots from the pair’s careers. Jody’s work included a ‘suggestion’ of a mullet, showing how the much-maligned hairstyle can be reinvented for 2019, alongside grown out, curly curtains. Liam, who started cutting hair in the British Army, showed off his prowess while creating a loosely contoured look reminiscent of past footballers and an Indie wave. To round off the night, Lee set the famous In Session challenge: both Jody and Liam were given just three minutes to style up a storm and present their translation of a ‘modern bed head’. Jody’s sweaty, worn-in style was a catwalk-worthy look, but it was Liam’s dented, pushed-back interpretation that won the audience vote. And after all that it was time for guests to pick up their free gift – a silver cordless Super Motor clipper or trimmer generously provided by sponsor BaByliss PRO.
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Lee Kynaston Jody Taylor and Liam Campbell CREATIVE HEAD
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Ed Stafford
Simon Clarkson Julie Winchester
Steven Bartlett
Claudia Merkle Irene Meikle and Trisha Buller
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Industry panel
THE GOLDWELL AND KMS HUB Network headed to Sicily and the stunning Verdura resort, where the Kao Salon Division annual event saw 170 networking business club members enjoy a variety of inspirational, eclectic speakers and presentations. Julie Winchester, the new general manager of Kao Salon Division UK, Ireland and South Africa, introduced trichologist Trisha Buller and Goldwell’s head of education, Irene Meikle, who discussed scalp care and the new Kerasilk Revitalize treatments. Steven Bartlett, co-founder of Social Change, spoke about disrupting and updating your social media, while Simon Clarkson’s workshop on creating high-performance, winning teams drew on performance psychology principles. The NHF/ NBF’s Hilary Hall spoke about T-level qualifications; art historian Claudia Merkle made a triumphant return to the event, before explorer Ed Stafford’s tales of resilience got everyone fired up. David Drew espoused the importance of charging the right amount for services, ahead of the industry panel – featuring Irene Meikle, Beverly C MBE, Shane Bennett, Martin Crean and Sam Burnett – brought the weekend to a fruitful conclusion, with added wine tasting!
Mark Giannandrea of Kao Salon Division
PLUGGED IN
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Wella Education DNA Artspace
DNA Artspace
THE ARRIVAL OF the #WellaCreativeRemix featuring the TrendVision Award Regional Heats at London’s Grand Connaught Rooms was tinged with sadness following the tragic loss of HOB Salon’s Sean Nolan only days before. Sean’s family were in the audience, seeing his work at a hair show for the very first time, and able to witness the incredible reaction to his vibrant colour vision for the HOB Academy looks. The new interactive format of the show was embraced wholeheartedly by the guests, who darted between the sections dedicated to Wella Education, D&J Ambrose, HOB Academy and DNA Artspace, with a stop to admire Robert Eaton’s incredible wig and weft work from last year’s Final as well. Models stepped off the runway and strutted amongst the crowd, with the opportunity to get up close and personal and ask questions of the competitors and stylists. We can’t wait to see who will triumph at the UK & Ireland Final in September!
Wella’s Jerome Toulza
Remastered
FOR A FULL LIST of TrendVision finalists, visit creativeheadmag.com
D&J Ambrose
D&J Ambrose
HOB Academy Sean Nolan
REMIXED,
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#l ux evibe #Esse ntia lLooks #s chwarz kop fpro
I loved creatin g this incredible texture #Blon dMe At a sect ion of the Great Wa ll of Chin a rest ored by Hen kel, on the fogg iest day!
In the
#TBT winning the Hair Trend trophy at #MWIT18
frame
Oh, the gla mour of it all #behindthescenes
Kevin Kahan, Most Wanted Hair Trend 2018 winner (@allaboutkevinkahan) and founder of Kevin Kahan in Belfast, snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
Enjoying the sunshine Th an k you @Denm anBrus h I love my bru sh eve n mo re
It must be 7a m! Train ing with the main man @neilmct 70
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At the fanta stic #Essenti alLooks Frankfurt with my buddy @dyl anbrittain hair
Anthon y Cragg exhibit ion at the Istanbul Modern 2018
CREATIVE HEAD
20/05/2019 11:37
Don’t try to make it on your own … WE’LL MAKE IT SO MUCH BETTER TOGETHER! Join us today to get these fantastic benefits: Free everyday business and HR advice from our
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