Creative HEAD March 2023

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BE A BLONDE auth y

TAKE YOUR BLONDE KNOWLEDGE –AND YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS – TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH NEW INNOVATIONS FROM BLONDME, THE ICONIC RANGE

BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

onde

BOND, AND BEYOND…

WANT TO SEE A BOOM IN YOUR BLONDE BUSINESS? CREATE BLONDES THAT ARE BEAUTIFUL, HEALTHY, AND STRONG USING TECHNIQUES THAT TODAY’S CLIENTS WILL LOVE, WITH BETTER-THAN-EVER BLONDME FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Blonde is big business; 60 per cent of a salon’s colour revenue is blonding related, in fact. Get your services and experience spot on, and the potential for your bottom line is clear. But they need extra TLC – all that lifting can play havoc with hair’s health. Deliver beautiful blonde that’s lifted with love, care and con dence? That’s the winning formula…

BLONDME from Schwarzkopf Professional is a haven of innovation, the rst to cleverly integrate bonding technologies into its formulas to create, protect, maintain and repair bonds. Now its high-performing bonding technology has moved into high gear! Introducing new Anti-Metal Bond Protection Technology for unbeatable performance, minimised breakage and ultimate con dence – we’re talking strong bonds for strong blondes! This next-level formula sees two technologies blended to save colourists and salons time and money, as you’ll need no bonding additives or anti-metal treatments. A new biodegradable chelating agent means any metal ions in the hair are enveloped to prevent damaging free radicals forming during lightening and colouring. In turn, this helps prevent hair breakage, always a concern for blondes. Add in highly effective succinic acid to penetrate hair, and you create a protective layer that boosts strong structural bonds, maintaining hair strength and elasticity. This is your chance to master the craft of creating exceptional blonde results, and become a true authority in blonde. Can you see the light?

LIGHTER TOUCH

NEW AND IMPROVED FOR BETTER BLONDE CONFIDENCE, MEET THE BLONDME INNOVATIONS SET TO BOOST YOUR BLONDE BRILLIANCE

PRECISION LIGHTENER

This lightener boasts a formula for minimal swelling, while offering up to seven levels of lift and minimised breakage. It’s perfect for precision, so use it on even the smallest regrowth applications.

PREMIUM LIGHTENER 9+

Featuring up to nine levels of lift and minimum hair breakage, this lightener has been reformulated for less swelling. Anti-yellow agents neutralise warm undertones, suitable for all hair bases.

CLAY LIGHTENER

Specially designed for creative, freehand techniques, this gives you up to seven levels of lift with minimised hair breakage. And thanks to the soft-to-solid formula, there’s no need for foils!

BLEACH & TONE

The perfect base in one step, this lightens and neutralises for amazingly even results. Use this additive with all BLONDME lighteners, it’s available in Violet, Ash and new Matt.

BLONDE LIFTING

The new 1:2 mixing ratio gives you an optimised performance with up to ve levels of lift. It’s available in six shades including new Biscuit, an enriching beige with a slight rose touch.

PASTEL TONING

Want intensi ed blonde tones or unwanted warm tones neutralised? This has you covered, alongside a new Clear shade to dilute the intensity of all Blonde Toning shades.

A BETTER BLONDE IN EVERY WAY

DEEP TONING

Ideal for lowlights and root transitions, this is designed for prelightened or natural hair bases levels 5 to 8. Now with a new Peach Sorbet shade for pastel Copper Cendré effects.

SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL IS COMMITTED TO REDUCING ITS ENVIRONMENTAL FOOTPRINT

•BLONDME features vegan colour formulas

•BLONDME colour tubes are made of 100 per cent recycled aluminium and plastic, 93 per cent recycled cardboard and fully recyclable

•BLONDME lighteners now have a fully recyclable container and no longer come with a plastic scoop, saving up to 50 tonnes of plastic per year. Instead, order the new reusable scoop that’s made of 100 per cent recycled material

LIFT & BLEND

For top blonde and white hair coverage, this lifts and tones in one. Mix with BLONDME Premium Developer for four levels of lift and great white blending results.

EIGHT

wonders

BECOME A TRUE AUTHORITY IN BLONDE AND OVERCOME ANY CHALLENGE, WITH INSPIRATION FROM BLONDME AND ITS EIGHT NEWEST KEY LOOKS AND TECHNIQUES

Platinum Purity

PERFECT FOR: Achieving the clearest blondes on even the darkest bases

TECHNIQUE: Back-to-back foils

HERO PRODUCT: Premium Lightener 9+

Melted Balayage

PERFECT FOR: Creating illuminated blondes

TECHNIQUE: Freehand

HERO PRODUCT: Clay Lightener

Platinum Bounce

PERFECT FOR: Achieving the clearest blondes while keeping even delicate hair healthy

TECHNIQUE: Back-to-back foils

HERO PRODUCT: Bleach & Tone

Lightener Additive

Regrowth Blonding

PERFECT FOR: Lightening the smallest regrowth for seamless blonde results

TECHNIQUE: Root application

HERO PRODUCT: Premium Lightener 9+

Grey Blonding

PERFECT FOR: Lifting natural blondes and blending white hair

TECHNIQUE: Root application

HERO PRODUCT: Lift & Blend

Pea B aya

PERFECT FOR: Bespoke colour results

TECHNIQUE: Freehand

HERO PRODUCT: Clay Lightener

Weaved-in Blonde

PERFECT FOR: Soft, natural blonde touches on light hair

TECHNIQUE: Classic highlights

HERO PRODUCT: Blonde Lifting

Pastel Blonde

PERFECT FOR: Spicing up any blondes

TECHNIQUE: Pastel toning

HERO PRODUCT: Pastel Toning

SCHOOL OF

blondes

BE AN AUTHORITY AT EVERY STEP OF THE BLONDE JOURNEY WITH EDUCATION AND DIGITAL SUPPORT FROM BLONDME FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BLENDED LEARNERS JOURNEY

Join the Authorities In Blonde in hands-on academy courses and online to transform yourself into a true master of blondes! Courses include:

•BLONDME ESSENTIAL

Explore BLONDME in this one-day course. You’ll deepdive into patented bonding technologies and learn how to create beautiful blondes.

•BLONDE EXPERT

A two-day course that will take you to the next level. Live demonstrations and practical workshops led by Schwarzkopf Professional ambassador Tim Scott-Wright will hone your technical skills and product proficiency.

DIGITAL SUPPORT

Give your business a boost by leveraging a tonne of fantastic aids to up your skills, your consultation technique and make your feed even more fabulous!

DIGITAL EDUCATION

Discover or refresh your BLONDME colour and care knowledge online through interactive activities. Learn more at eacademy. schwarzkopf-professional.com

•LET’S LEARN!

Explore a wealth of content, from dedicated service tutorials to tips and tricks. You’ll find specialised content to help you visualise your results and discover more about the technology behind BLONDME – how it works and why it delivers the best results for your clients.

•LET’S SHARE!

Get the chance to be featured on the brand’s channels. Boost your salon’s visibility by tagging @schwarzkopfprouk and show off your creations.

•LET’S TALK!

BUILD A BRILLIANT NEW WORLD OF LIGHTER LOOKS AND BECOME AN AUTHORITY ON BLONDE WITH BLONDME FROM SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL. DISCOVER MORE AT SCHWARZKOPFPRO.COM

The House of Color App is your digital assistant for on-thego consultation. Now with new BLONDME primed and ready! @SCHWARZKOPFPROUK

SUBSCRIBE NOW TO CREATIVE HEAD

AND RECEIVE A SHAMPOO AND MASQUE FROM KERACARE, WORTH

Be one of the rst 10 new subscribers to Creative HEAD and you’ll receive a KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo and Intensive Restorative Masque, worth £20. Providing luxury care for textured hair, KeraCare has a range of technologically advanced conditioning haircare products containing natural ingredients. The products help to maintain strong, soft and shiny hair, as well as a healthy scalp. KeraCare is formulated by Dr Ali N Syed, a leading authority on textured hair. Already a Creative HEAD subscriber? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky person will win a bumper hamper of KeraCare products, worth £150. For more information, visit avloneurope.co.uk

SIGN UP NOW FOR JUST £10 VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SUBSCRIBE

£20*

*For the rst 10 new subscribers to sign up between 1 March and 31 March 2023. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.

THE NEW LO-PROFX IS HERE.

The LO-PROFX collection features an ergonomically designed cordless clipper and trimmer. With ultra-low profile, heavy-metal housing for hard-working durability and graphite zero-gap adjustable blades for extremely smooth cutting. The high-torque brushless motor gives consistent fast blade speed for the ultimate barbering experience.

Available now babyliss.com

EDITOR’S LETTER

As Salon Smart lands once more in London, I’m itching to hear from our attendees just what is on their plates right now. There is so much uncertainty across the industry, especially for salon employers. One promising piece of news is the launch of the Employer Support Fund when the new T-Level for Hairdressing and Barbering finally arrive in September. These new qualifications are designed to pull in future talent, especially vital at a time when apprenticeship starts are plummeting. Yet salon employers have their serious doubts, and with 45 days of work placement necessary to qualify, there was little incentive for salons and barber shops to offer such placements and invest their efforts into these students. Perhaps this will make a real difference; if we must rely on T-Levels alongside apprenticeships for tomorrow’s teams, they need to truly work for all involved… It’s also warming to hear that the myriad trade bodies representing our industry are working together on a sizable survey to share with government to better understand the landscape. This kicks off immediately after the Spring Budget, so keep an eye on @salonemployersassociation for your chance to take part in this important project.

JOIN US!

MWIT’s time! Creative HEAD’s Most Wanted and It List Awards are back and open for entry, with an extensive range of categories honouring individual hair talents as well as salons, barber shops and business innovators across the UK and Ireland. Ready to claim one of 22 sought-after trophies? Turn to page 60 for details. And… final call for Salon Smart! We’re gearing up for a whole day of business networking, advice and inspiration, delivered by more than 20 motivational speakers, on Monday 20 March. Tackling topics such as workplace wellbeing, future talent, and finding drive and focus, and featuring a slap-up Working Lunch and Prosecco-filled finale, don’t miss out – see page 66 to book your place today.

creativeheadmag.com/events

the

K18 molecular repair service +

chelating treatment made for every client + every service

how to use K18 molecular repair service

PRO chelating hair complex reduces 7 of the most common types of metals + minerals found in tap and hard water for maximum molecular repair results, revived colour vibrancy, and restored smoothness + bounce.

The K18 molecular repair service brings client’s hair back up to: 91% virgin strength + 94% virgin elasticity*

*Results observed in a clinical study while using mist and mask as part of a bleaching treatment. Results may vary depending on hair type, quality, and history.

WHAT’S INSIDE

OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

AMANDA NOTTAGE

DEPUTY EDITOR

ANNIE MAY BYRNE NOONAN

ART DIRECTOR

NICK JABBAL

CHIEF SUB EDITOR

ADAM WOOD

GRACE DALGLEISH

Superstar colourist Grace talks about her creative process and her journey so far

ON

DIGITAL DESIGNER

EVA VESTMANN

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT AOIFE CONNELL

DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR

KELSEY DRING

COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR

LAURA TUCKER

COLOUR SPECIAL

This issue we dive deep into new colour, from trends and products to insight from elite colourists

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS ASSISTANT

JOY WONG

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER

JENNY BROOKS

CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR

JOANNA ANDERSEN

PUBLISHER

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

Hair styling by Nick Irwin. Colour by Lesley Jennison using BLONDME from Schwarzkopf Professional. Make-up by Helge Branscheidt. Clothes styling by Tim Tobias Zimmermann. Photography by Simon Emmett.

SOPHIA HILTON, NOT ANOTHER LUKE HERSHESON, HERSHESONS

KAYE SOTOMI, CHOP CHOP LONDON

JORDANNA COBELLA, COBELLA

FRAZER WALLACE, HAUS STUDIO ASHLEIGH HODGES, HAIRDOTCOM

LUKE PLUCKROSE, SAKS CLAIRE MARTIN-KENNEDY, CLHAIR

LEAH HAYDEN-CASSIDY, UNIT8

ROB WHITE & LEE NASH-JONES, NASHWHITE

IN THE KNOW

A SELECTION OF THE ESSENTIALS

Trade bodies unite for key project

The various trade bodies representing hairdressing and barbering are working together on a landmark project to better understand the industry landscape and share results quickly with government.

The Hair and Barber Council, the NHBF, the British Beauty Council, the Freelance Hairdressers Association, the Fellowship for British Hairdressing, the Salon Employers Association, and the Men’s Hairdressing Federation, will unveil a survey from 20 March, following the Spring Budget. Topics will include nance and training and skills, and data from each of the participating bodies will be fed back and shared with government. The plan is that the industry snapshot will help decision makers better understand the industry and help all parties work together to protect it from current challenges, such as the economic crisis and recruitment shortage.

Check out @salonemployersassociation from 20 March to participate in the survey

THE INDUSTRY SHOWS LIFE IN HAIR AT CAREERS WEEK

THE INDUSTRY – a community interest company set up by Creative HEAD to raise awareness of the career opportunities within hairdressing – is hosting a virtual ‘booth’ at National Careers Week (6 to 11 March). Students, parents and educators will be able to access invaluable insight into hairdressing careers, including brilliant case studies, as spotlighted in the recent ad campaign “Not ‘Just’ A Hairdresser”. Are you looking for apprentices? Sign up now to The Industry database, which lists salon and barber shop employers across the UK looking for young talent. Register at creativeheadmag.com/not-just-a-hairdresser

YOUNG ARTISTIC TEAM REVEALED

The grind of heat, hot water, gloves and chemical styling can take its toll. Get your guard up with Sorted Skin’s Intensive Rescue Range of dermatologically approved, hypoallergenic, natural, vegan and cruelty-free skincare products. Intensive Rescue Moisturiser (RRP £17.99) is a winner, super-absorbable and mega-hydrating it reverses dry, cracked and damaged skin. sortedskin.com

Cat Cleland (November Collective), Harry Watson (Doo-Dah’s Hairdressing), Kaelee Carroll (Kroma Hair & Beauty), Lisha Roberts (Janet Maitland Hair Excellence), Riley Young (Hooker & Young) and Tommy Hardy (Tweedie & Marshall Hairdressing) have been unveiled as the new Schwarzkopf Professional Young Artistic Team for 2023. After an online entry, 14 nalists attended an in-person session where judges, including celebrity stylist and colourist Kris Barnes, assessed a live demo. The six will now enjoy a year-long mentoring programme to develop their talent.

T-Levels: salon funds unlocked

Salon employers who offer work placement to new T-Level students from September are now able to access money to help with their costs. The Department for Education has announced a package of additional funding to support T-Level providers, including the launch of a one-year Employer Support Fund to enable providers to reimburse employers for costs incurred in delivering industry placements in the 20232024 nancial year, worth about £12m in total.

Other initiatives include careers guidance funding for T-Level providers, a one-off grant to support the provision of additional careers guidance to ensure all students have a good understanding about T-Levels. The new T-Level for Hairdressing and Barbering will launch in September 2023.

Lee Staff ord in the “Not ‘Just’ A Hairdresser” campaign

Everybody’s talking about… Salon Smart 2023

Busy salon and barber shop days can leave owners and their teams feeling miles away from the support they need. Could 2023 be about improving client connections and securing talent? Whatever your goals, Salon Smart is back to deliver all the inspiration and guidance you need. Think expert advice from the likes of Lee Stafford, Adam Reed, Allertons’ Nicholas Nicola and Danielle Garner. Taking place on Monday 20 March at The Chain and Buoy Stores in London, the event also offers access to business innovators at the Working Lunch, and Prosecco to round off the day. For tickets and more information, turn to page 66 or visit creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart

CATCH-UP

Bruno-Marc Giamattei is the new creative director for JOICO UK & EMEA.

Keith Conniford is retiring as registrar of The Hair and Barber Council after seven years. He is replaced by ex- nance chairman Gareth Penn, managing director of The Good Salon Guide

Amanda Lodge-Stewart is the new NHBF president. She is joined by newly elected NHBF board members Samantha Cunningham (Shine), Joanne Johnson (Bliss Hair Design), Jamie Mettyear (Mettyear’s Day Spa), while Carolyn Sweeney (Creations) was re-elected for a second term.

cLHAIR Mantra, a new book on textured hair by The Big Blow Out’s Claire Martin-Kennedy, shares tips on managing and maintaining diverse hair types. Available on Amazon or Kindle.

ARE YOU AN EMPLOYER OF

You know that your team is the backbone of the salon, they are the face of your business. And while there’s no doubt you look after your staff well, we still have a recruitment crisis in salons and barber shops.

There’s a need to consistently promote what makes you a better employer than others. It’s what will make you an employer of choice.

It’s not just about pay. Other elements

BOOK IT!

MANAGE YOUR MOOD WITH WELLA EDUCATION

TRANSFORM INTO A high-vibe mood shaman with this one-day workshop led by business coach Hayley Jepson. Get culturepositive and seek out the good around you to elevate your mood. Get ready for a workplace change. WHEN 13 March, Manchester CONTACT

wellastudiomanchester@wella.com

include business culture, career development, employee experience, engagement with staff, and leadership styles. This all sounds obvious, but do you have an established, clear, positive culture that supports a positive employee experience? Can you demonstrate this to the stylists or other staff you want to attract?

It’s a well-known fact that when clients hear positive comments about your business from employees and other clients, they are more likely to stay with you than look elsewhere.

In a nutshell, the ability of your business to generate earnings and revenue is directly linked to your employee satisfaction. Increased productivity results in higher income – and that’s something everyone needs.

The NHBF is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses in the hair, beauty and barbering industries.

For more information on growing your business, join the NHBF before the end of March 2023 and quote CHM23 to get £25 off your membership fee.

Join the digital revolution+

We have taken our years of education experience and created an online platform that everyone can access. With an ever growing library of over 150 step-bystep videos covering Cutting, Colouring, Styling, and Barbering you’ll find essential new skills that can be used in the salon everyday.

Clients can nourish their way to better hair and an easier menopause with GLOWWA HAIR FOOD| MENO. The supplement shields hair follicles from hormonal changes to restore strand strength.

RRP £39.99 (30-day supply)

glowwa.com

The Andis Centennial beSPOKE Trimmer celebrates the brand’s 100 years in style with a clever wireless charging function. The Outliner Deep-Tooth GTX-Z Blade delivers crisp visibility for tight lines, slick fades and top-notch design work.

RRP £275

andis.com/centennial

Indola’s smart new colour offerings include an epic Color Transformer that substitutes an entire demi-permanent line –simply mix it into a permanent shade! For tailor-made results, reach for CREA-MIX for bespoke hues, and CREA-BOLD for braver clients.

In-salon service

indola.co.uk

American Crew has revamped its iconic styling range with 10 pucks to suit every hair style and type. From Pomade for curly hair to the ultra-smooth Grooming Cream, there’s a puck for everyone.

RRP £18.80 each

americancrew.com

A healthy scalp means healthier hair, and Revlon Professional’s new dual action Scalp Moisturizing Lotion, the latest addition to the RE/START HYDRATION range, protects the scalp microbiome and seals in moisture. It’s also free from silicones.

RRP £17.65

revlonproshop.com

Thanks to a clever blend of succulents such as cactus and prickly pear, R+Co’s Labyrinth 3-in-1 Texturizing Shampoo + Conditioner + Styler hydrates hair and delivers weightless, piecey volume.

RRP £29

xpertprofessional.co.uk

STOCK IT!

LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES

Bumble and bumble’s new Bond Building Repair Oil Serum builds stronger bonds and creates softer strands. It protects against heat styling too up to 232°C –a true hair guardian.

RRP £35

bumbleandbumble.co.uk

The Überliss Patented Bond Healing Spray offers bondbuilding work on the go. The leave-in spray strengthens, moisturises, and hydrates. It’s also a heat protector and detangler.

RRP £15.50

avloneurope.co.uk/uberliss

The new ghd duet style gives clients a salon-level nish at home – with no damage! An innovative new hot air styler that styles from wet to dry, it gives oodles more softness and shine. And there’s sleek talker too, a clever styling oil with heat protection that helps smooth, soften and replenish hair, while boosting frizz control.

This is a duet we’re on song with… RRP duet style RRP £379; RRP sleek talker £35 ghdhair.com

A favourite for strong and silky-smooth hair, KERASILK has been revamped with vegan formulas, sulphate-free shampoos, and climate neutral certi cation. Its new biomimetic silk replenishes lost amino acids and helps improve hair’s structure with continuous use.

RRP from £21 kerasilk.com

New from Neäl & Wølf comes a refreshing dry shampoo that boasts betaine, which optimises scalp moisture, increases shine and acts as a guardian to the hair cuticle and cortex.

RRP £12.75

salonpromotions.co.uk

Scalp sensitivity, oiliness, dandruff… Unhappy scalps suffer many things. Luckily, the L’Oréal Professionnel Paris Scalp Advanced range tackles it all for healthier heads all round.

RRP from £20.15

lorealpartnershop.com/uk

COLOUR VISION

SPRING IS THE PERFECT TIME FOR A REFRESH, SO HOW ABOUT UPSKILLING? FROM A NEW WELLA PROFESSIONALS

STUDIO TO TIPS ON CREATING MORE COMPLEX AND BEAUTIFUL BALAYAGE, THERE’S A LOT TO GET INSPIRED BY

WE LOVE COLLEGE

Scotland and Northern England’s hairdressers of tomorrow have a new training facility at the Granton campus of Edinburgh College. Wella Professionals’ new Scottish studio offers new skills in a first-class educational environment.

There’s a wide portfolio of education courses led by Wella’s experienced guest educators and education team, from basic, beginner level courses through to advanced level. With a goal to strengthen the links between the hairdressing industry and education – topics at the studio span every aspect of colour, cut and styling, from the fundamentals through to creative and advanced, and even courses on trichology. Expect a super-sleek design that’s fitted out with the latest furniture and equipment.

Wella’s Edinburgh studio caters not just for aspiring hairdressers but also to those in the industry seeking retraining and refresher courses for those already working. Part of the refurbishment includes a new meeting space to help visiting professionals study in style. Contact the Edinburgh studio at wellastudiomanchester@wella.com, or call 0161 834 2645.

THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…

EVERY ISSUE WE SPEAK TO A WELLA PROFESSIONALS COLOUR

“My favourite techniques for creating a soft dimensional balayage is to work in a brickwork pattern, working with V shapes. If the client requests a lighter, more natural blonde, I usually scatter teased babylights between sections. My top tip for creating a beautiful balance is to not over-blonde! Ensure you leave dimension by leaving natural depth between sections to make that blonde pop.

“My favourite lightener to use is always Blondorplex, which offers great lift but less damage. Balayage isn’t a colour service that needs doing every six weeks, so to keep the consistency of my clients returning, I advise faceframing top-ups or balayage refreshes. Shinefinity is my go-to balayage toner. With zero root shift, it fades beautifully and adds so much shine.

“I also find it is great for smoothing naturally frizzy hair. The shades are wonderful intermixed or on their own, with a great range so it’s perfect if a client fancies a little change with no commitment.”

EXPERT ABOUT A KEY CHALLENGE AND HOW TO OVERCOME IT. KERRY BYWATER FROM @BELLAROSEHAIRDESIGN, SHARES ALL THINGS BALAYAGE, INCLUDING HOW TO GET CLIENTS BACK IN THE CHAIR MORE REGULARLY

SHELFIE TIME

Shine nity and Illumina Color are the perfect partners; naturalised colour directions are a growing trend and having these products on your shelves is key! Both will embrace the natural highs and lows resulting in a sheer nish and high shine. Use Illumina Color on regrowth for 100 per cent grey coverage and Shine nity through the lengths to balance tone and depth with zero damage.”

FORMULA FOR SUCCESS

BEX EMMETT, WELLA PROFESSIONALS TECHNICAL EDUCATOR, @BEXWELLALDN

Blondorplex and 6% is my go-to lightening formula for Ultra Balayage. I know I can get optimum lightening without compromising the condition of the hair.

“For a luminous result, I love Illumina Color to root shadow, here using 20g 6/ + 20g 6/19 + Pastel 1.9% in a 1:2 ratio for ve minutes.

“For the ends, I mixed Shine nity 45g 09/61 + 15g 09/36 + 60g Bottle Activator, applied at the basin for 15 minutes.

“The addition of gold to the formula maintains brightness within an ultra-cool nish. Gorgeous!”

JAMIE DORAN, WELLA PROFESSIONALS TECHNICAL EDUCATOR @JAMIEWELLAMCR

COLOUR

Prepare to be inspired by your hairdressing heroes and learn the secrets behind some of our industry’s most renowned colour images

SIGNATURE NATURALS

with Robert Eaton,  Russell Eaton

BLONDE ARTISTRY

with Christel Barron-Hough,  Stil

London Manchester

Monday, 3 April Wednesday, 5 April

Dublin

Monday, 17 April

Create the perfect Scandinavian blonde, incorporating hand-painting, freehand balayage and seamless blends.

Manchester

Monday, 24 April

Edinburgh

Tuesday, 7 November

London

Monday, 19 June

Dublin

Monday, 23 October

Inspired by Robert’s most recent ‘Signature Naturals’ photographic collection, learn how to utilise creative techniques within soft, natural looks and how this can benefit your colour business.

SEXY SOCIAL COLOUR

with James Earnshaw,  James Earnshaw Hair

Manchester London

Monday, 5 June

Monday, 24 July

A collaborative day working as a group to create the best social media content, with demonstrations on formulating the perfect pastel shades whilst also discussing fashion, make-up and photo editing to enhance the overall look.

ROBERT EATON

CHRISTEL BARRON-HOUGH

JAMES EARNSHAW

In this exciting one-day colour course at the Wella Studios, you will be inspired by some of the highest-profile Wella Artists. Each artist has created their very own colour seminar, reflective of their personal style and signature look, and together you will explore the world of hair colour and discover both the creative and technical process behind their work.

BLONDES MEAN BUSINESS

COLOUR ID

with Jayson Gray,  Karbon Kyd

London

Tuesday, 19 September

Manchester

Monday, 9 October

A day for those looking to think outside of the box! Take the fear out of freehand techniques and fashion-led trends, learning how to utilise both to create bespoke, fluid, yet commercial results and exploring new boundaries in colour.

with Jordanna Cobella,  Cobella

Dublin

Monday, 11 September

London

Monday, 13 November

Discover new commercial and salon-friendly lightening techniques, understand how to implement these into your colour service menu, and how to cleverly brand your services and boost your blonding business.

INFO & BOOKINGS

Each Signature Colour course is priced at £290 (UK) or €310 (Ireland). To book your place or gain more info, contact your chosen studio:

London 0203 650 4700

wellastudiolondon@wella.com

Dublin 01 416 0900

wellastudiodublin@wella.com.

Manchester & Edinburgh 0161 834 2645

wellastudiomanchester@wella.com.

JASON GRAY

For full details about these or any other Wella education courses, download the Education Book 2023

JORDANNA COBELLA

THE PLACES

DOUCE, CAMBRIDGE @DOUCEUK

When douce founder Phil Benton was crowned It List Entrepreneur in 2018, it was for his remodelled Airstream salon concept, which travelled everywhere from festivals to the City to deliver exceptional hair. Now he’s gone old school and opened an actual bricks and mortar salon… but with a difference, of course. “It was a challenge to move to a large space and still keep the integrity and unique look of the mobile Airstream salons, but I believe this salon has its own individual air,” says Phil. It sits alongside a cafe and bar lounge, and retail areas for fashion, beauty and local goods, reminiscent of a concept store. Phil describes douce today as an “evolving lifestyle brand”, and the space re ects its sustainable message too. Its interiors – rich with greenery, wood and tan leather – are illuminated by oor to ceiling windows. Douce has planted roots; let’s watch it blossom…

The New Collection 2023

A celebration of our senses in collaboration with Rudy Mostarda

The new cut and colour Collection is inspired by connection and by regaining all those actions that make us human. Exclusive shades for a palette that conveys balance, naturalness and harmony, suitable to any type of skintone. Discover the new collection designed in collaboration with Rudy Mostarda, Global Creative Director of ALFAPARF MILANO PROFESSIONAL.

alfaparfmilanopro.com

@alfaparfmilanopro_uki

THE FACES THE FACES THE

PEOPLE IN ACTION

What would Debbie Currie do?

The Most Wanted Best Salon Team winner and director of Billi Currie in London shares how she keeps her team happy

WE LOOK AT our salon as like a record label, home to lots of different artists with different ambitions. Many of the team travel internationally for different brands. When a team member says they want to work for a brand, as a salon owner you know they will be doing fewer clients, and this can be worrying. But our approach is to make it work for the team member and the salon; there’s always a way.

We are in a fortunate position because we’ve got about 25 team members. It would be more difficult with only eight, for example. We have monthly oneto-ones with each team member on their results. The numbers are as important as the creativity, and we communicate

this to our team so they understand. We create bespoke training plans and opportunities for them, because otherwise they’re going to leave us and go somewhere else. The initial inductions are important to get all your systems in place. You’re teaching them about the client’s salon journey so that they know their targets, their column, and how to run their own little business within Billi Currie.

You’ve got to manage the schedule. But if you’ve got lots of people out doing fashion week, or at different events at the same time, it can be tricky. Be flexible, be their mentor, find out what makes people tick. It takes managing, don’t get me wrong. It’s a lot of rotas but it means you can have a business that survives. We’ve got a front of house team member who wants to do marketing, so we’re going to get her an intern to cover her so she can start doing it. It’s important to say that we also have super stylists who are in high demand, salon-based and love looking after our guests. Not everyone who joins wants to be an international artist – some want to sing in-house!

WHAT MADE ME SIMON TOWNLEY Simon Townley Hair

I wouldn’t be where I am today – running a successful salon with a clientele of football stars – if I’d let my brittle bone condition de ne me. If anything, being born with it has been a driving force. From childhood I always tried to keep up with everyone else, playing football and bike riding. I was breaking bones four or ve times a year.

Hairdressing became my passion when I was 16 years old and I became an apprentice at a local Lancashire salon. But within three weeks of starting I broke my arm. Two

days after my arm had been operated on I was back in the salon. I worked on adapting my stance and posture, anything that would help counteract the effects of my condition. I refused to let it stop me progressing.

Running a business and being a busy stylist is a challenge, but one positive of being injured a lot is it gives me a week off here and there to re ect on business needs.

A big turning point was when a Burnley player asked for a haircut. From there I have travelled to France and Russia to do the hair for England players, and even manager Gareth Southgate.

Working with Matrix I have appeared on stage and travelled the UK as an educator. Every day is a challenge, but my love of hairdressing is what de nes me far more than brittle bones.

BUSINESS ESSENTIALS

RUNNING A SALON OR BARBERING BUSINESS IS HARD WORK, BUT AXA BUSINESS INSURANCE WANTS TO MAKE IT THAT LITTLE BIT EASIER…

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

ALLOWABLE EXPENSES

When you spend money on your hair salon business, costs can be written off against tax. Reporting your allowable expenses means keeping an accurate record of business incomings and outgoings. While it takes effort, you could see big savings on your tax bill.

WHAT CAN I CLAIM?

ADMIN MATERIAL – Salon Wi-Fi, landlines or mobile phones are all deductible expenses, as are postage and stationery costs used for business.

EQUIPMENT – Small products, including foils, small equipment such as scissors and dryers. Repairing or replacing can be included.

FINANCES – If opening and maintaining a business bank account comes with fees, you can claim those. You can also claim the interest on any loans or hire-purchase agreements and the costs of accounting or legal fees.

INSURANCE – Public Liability Insurance will protect you at your own premises and at others’, so it’s useful whether you work at the same salon daily or if you’re mobile. If home-based, you may look at business contents insurance as normal home insurance might not cover everything. No matter what insurance you choose, this can be claimed under allowable expenses and reduce your tax bill.

MARKETING – Any time a promotion costs you money, you can claim it as an allowable expense. That includes a website domain, security certificate, Facebook paid advertising, licences for salon signage and more can be deducted from your taxes.

PROFESSIONAL MEMBERSHIP – If your chosen professional body is approved by HMRC, then membership fees can be included in your expenses. Trade magazines, subscriptions and licences can also be included.

RENT AND CHAIR FEES – Salon costs such as rent or the interest on mortgage payments can be claimed back. If you’re renting just one chair, your chair fees are tax deductible.

TRAVEL – If you’re mobile, you can write-off travel costs including fuel, vehicle maintenance and more. Your vehicle is an essential business tool too, so consider getting van insurance in case of damage, accidents or breakdowns. Like other insurance, this would be an allowable expense. For salon-based hairdressers, you may have vehicle claims to make if you pick up business supplies by car.

UNIFORMS – Aprons or gloves when using colour or other chemicals can be a business expense. Uniforms that include a logo and are only used for the job might be claimed as an allowable expense. The laundry and cleaning of towels, protective clothing and uniforms used by hairdressers will also be deductible from your taxes.

WORKING FROM HOME – For at-home salons, you will want to calculate and claim the expenses that you have from working at your place of residence. Work out how much of your heating, electricity, water bills and other expenses go towards running your business, as you will be able to claim some of these costs back.

SIMPLIFIED EXPENSES

For mobile hairdressers or in-home salon owners, simplified expenses give flat rates you can calculate business expenses on. Simplified expenses flat rates are available for calculating vehicle costs and working from home allowances.

Abigail Butler of Strictly Xtended, AXA customer since 2015

A DAY OF WORK/ LIFE BALANCE FOR QUENTIN TAILLEPIED, STYLIST AT STAG EDINBURGH

I GET UP AT… 6:30am and have breakfast – eggs, toast, green tea, and vitamins to ght the seasonal blues. I like to read in the morning and grab coffee and pastries in town.

MY WARDROBE CONSISTS OF…

vintage like black pleated trousers and oversized thick tees, good leather boots.

MY JOB ENTAILS… Creative haircuts on some interesting people and some custom wigs for local drag queens. Also some shoots and sets in Scotland.

I GOT HERE BY… Working hard and saying yes to challenges.

MY DAY CONSISTS OF…

A fully booked column, some wig prep and messy sketches for future collections.

MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… A good razor, I love the freedom it gives.

MY DAILY FUEL IS…

Art and music. I take a lot of inspiration from musical subgenres and unconventional fashion. I also love sharing ideas with other creatives.

MY DAILY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES…

Moses Sumney, FKA twigs, Arca, Lykke Li, Wolf Alice, Florence Welch, Bjork… all these people are full,

complete artists. Their vision surpasses just music and meet many other art forms which I nd very inspirational. Oh, also Céline Dion, of course.

WHEN I GET STUCK I… Usually ask for help from my peers. Seeing from a different angle is alway bene cial.

THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS… Saying yes too much. It’s impossible to please everyone and hard to put in boundaries, but

THE MISTAKE I LEARNT FROM THE Leaving hairdressing. I wasn’t happy and I didn’t feel like I t in, so I decided to leave. It took a long time to nd what I wanted and decide to start again. Then I found Stag, which embraced me and made me ourish.

THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED IS… People trying to convince me to stay comfortable in France rather than go and get what I wanted. Listening to my intuition works better for me.

MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… I’d like to say it’s organised but no, it’s a total mess.

MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… I can’t say no to a good red wine and a great dinner.

AFTER WORK I… Usually enjoy a bit of silence and then put on a movie or meet friends in a pub.

I DECOMPRESS BY… Going solo and getting lost in the Scottish Highlands.

To see what’s been happening, most especially in fashion,

Patti Smith

I love her daily posts on Instagram @thisispattismith, she’s my biggest inspiration.

i-D

It always shares the most unique artists from across the world and I love watching its YouTube channel.

Instagram

lm, and music.

Image courtesy of Murray Orr

TAKE UP THE FIGHT

THE MENOPAUSE IS TOUGH, AFFECTING HAIR AND GENERAL

WELLBEING. WHAT IF ONE HAIR HEALTH SUPPLEMENT COULD IMPROVE BOTH? ENTER GLOWWA’S HAIR FOOD| MENO

Clever beauty launches today can work their magic from the inside – and brands fall over each other to say theirs do it better. Combatting the hair loss associated with menopause and experienced by 40 per cent of women is one thing, but how can you take care of the other symptoms?

GLOWWA, the home of hair-nourishing food supplements, is cutting the menopause down to size with HAIR FOOD| MENO. Hitting salon shelves this spring, it builds back better hair and wellbeing before, during and beyond the menopause. Approved by trichologists, it nurtures hair growth, pulls down the shutters on shedding, and shields hair follicles from hormonal changes to restore strand strength. Highly absorbable and fast-acting, benefits are seen in just 12 weeks.

IN THEIR CORNER

The menopause can leave women flummoxed when it comes to finding a solution to the more than 30 symptoms it creates; it’s easy to feel defeated. But HAIR FOOD| MENO features 14 active ingredients working in synergy to fight that battle on many fronts. Beyond boosting hair health, it confronts many undesirable symptoms naturally. It’s a white knight that tackles tiredness, energy drain, oxidative stress, and more. Its host of active ingredients such as zinc promote healthy hair and reduce shedding while supporting bone health, which can suffer during menopause. Vitamin E helps reduce hot sweats and boosts

I’M GOING TO SELL YOU A STORY…

IT’S TIME TO CHANGE THE WAY YOU APPROACH SERVICES

I AM A true believer in finding inspiration from outside your industry. It keeps your work unique and current while creating powerful stories. But resist the urge to look at your usual sources of inspiration, you’ll be surprised how refreshing it is. This is a powerful tool, particularly when you face a creative block. Some of the world’s best innovations were born out of trial and error.

The Chapel salon group has been charging by time rather than service for years, which changed the client journey at its salons altogether – genius! Agility should be at the heart of everything we do. In both business and creativity, we need more lightbulb moments.

Let’s take service menus. Have they evolved to be in-line with the current market and demand? When comparing hair colour menus from 1980 and 2023, I found like for like. There’s mention of root tints, grey hair coverage, highlights and chemical services, even though highlights have come a long way since the cap. With the innovative products that now exist, consumers are spoilt for choice. Look at Charlotte Tilbury in the world of make-up. The brand sells the ‘end result’ by characterising its services with storytelling. Consumers choose from a menu called ‘Who Will You Be?’, with sales-savvy names such as ‘The Rebel’ and ‘The Uptown Girl’. These types of menus currently exist for blow-drys and styling, but imagine if they existed for hair colour at every salon…

A colour change is an expression of who you are, how you would like to portray yourself. After all, most colour changes are symbolic of an emotional shift or behaviour change – a new mum, a new job, the end of an era, even embracing your uniqueness. Should

we still be using words such as ‘tint’ or the actual technique such as ‘highlights’? Could we not jazz it up by selling the end result – creating moodboards or flatlays to bring each visual to life? Could these menus change seasonally, with emerging consumer trends? Could we do the same for cuts? It would not only keep clients more engaged but also give hairdressers more excitement, fuelling creativity and allowing a deeper connection with clients. Advertising is a multi-billion pound industry for a reason. In lockdown, Amazon told the story of a ballerina whose show was cancelled. Their community created a makeshift concert with speakers and lights on a rooftop. This storytelling sparks activity in the limbic part of the brain, responsible for decision making, which happens to be emotionally activated. It’s rooted much deeper than just changing a service menu; it allows us to reconnect with the very reason we chose hairdressing in the first place – human connection! Explore the ideas you haven’t given time to; start brainstorming new ways of doing things. It is pivotal in keeping our work, our industry, and our business structures, fresh and innovative.

Jordanna Cobella understands the power of a story and creating the vision of an ideal result. She illustrates how the impact on colour menus can be life changing

This 3-in-1 product adds texture, volume and hydration to the hair

THE CULTURE OF HAIRDRESSING FORMULATED WITHOUT PARABENS + MINERAL OIL AND PETROLATUM + SULFATES (SLS OR SLES) VEGAN, CRUELTY + GLUTEN FREE + COLOUR-SAFE.

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THE CREW FOR YOU

AMERICAN CREW’S REDESIGNED HAIR PUCKS PROMISE THE SAME ICONIC HIGH-PERFORMANCE AND HOLD WITH LIMITLESS STYLING RESULTS – FOR ALL HAIR TYPES, STYLES, AND VIBES

The freedom of the open road and The Boss on the radio; sitting lakeside, the summer breeze in your hair and your worries far away. You can serve a slice of Americana in a heartbeat via a selection of handy round pucks, iconic in their own right in barber shops and salons across the globe. It’s about inspiring feelings of true liberty and expression, having the control to style it up or dial it down. American Crew’s redesigned range of hair pucks are the styling go-to that will deliver a nish authentic to your clients and their lifestyle. What will your puck say about you?

From the motorbike-riding Sons of Anarchy to the leatherclad T-Birds, the appeal of the rebel knows no sign of abating.

CREATE YOUR OWN CREW

American Crew has embraced this philosophy of rebellion, of knocking down the doors of convention and embracing a more inclusive mission. This is a crew, and the expanded 10-strong line up from American Crew ensures everyone can join. With its widest range yet for all hair textures, cuts, densities and lengths, barbers and stylists can help clients create a look that is theirs from root to tip. From light hold creams to heavier hold pomades, American Crew’s got all bases covered.

Whoever they are and whatever their essence – clients can rely on American Crew to nd the styles that suit them. Create your own hair gang, with all the attitude and freedom of the open road.

Coming up short on salon styling options? Look under American Crew’s bonnet to see how much more you could be offering – rev up that engine and style out!

POMADE

Works well with curly hair, offering medium hold and high shine.

FIBER

A rst-rate thickener and texturiser with a strong hold.

FORMING CREAM

For a client’s rst steps into styling – good for all haircuts and hair types.

WHIP

For medium to longer and from ne to course hair, it’s weightless with a texturising nish.

CREAM POMADE

Ideal for a lived-in look with added texture and movement. Suits short and medium styles.

MATTE CLAY

Keep groomed without losing texture; for a medium hold with matte shine. Good for medium to high hair densities.

MOLDING CLAY

Expect a high hold and medium shine to create a light to moderately textured nish. For short to medium hair.

HEAVY HOLD POMADE

A heavy hold and shine make for a more groomed style. Can be used on straight to curly hair.

DEFINING PASTE

Say hello to exible textured results with medium hold and low shine. Suitable for ne to dense hair.

GROOMING CREAM

For a seductively smooth and ultragroomed look with high hold and an eyecatching shine.

Scan

THE COLOUR TRENDS YOU NEED TO KNOW

POST-PANDEMIC FUN AND CREATIVE EXPRESSION FUEL EXPERIMENTATION THIS S/S23

2023 IS ABOUT happy colour contradictions and inclusive shades. While we’ll see trends of yesteryear return with an added twist, the walls are coming down on definitive colour. We’re not all emerging from the pandemic in the same way; plenty of your clientele are craving a brighter future…

VIVA MAGENTA

PANTONE’S 2023 colour of the year is Viva Magenta – and what a magenta it is. Think turning up the volume on last year’s more muted pink shades. Flexible and long-lasting, Viva Magenta is a shoo-in for 2023, suiting budget-conscious clients.

“Viva Magenta can be dark and muted on darker bases and more vibrant on lighter ones,” says Kayleigh Johnson, founder of Hex Hairdressing and an INNOluxe SuperStar colourist. Even when it starts to fade, Viva Magenta still looks good, she promises. “Clients will experience beautiful pinks and peaches along the way.”

Not everyone will go full-on magenta in 2023, but its influence will be seen among more subtle colour looks. Expect it to creep into blonde and brunette tones too, giving warmth as clients look for richer depth.

CHERRY POP

SAY HELLO TO Cherry Pop, Goldwell’s colour of the year. Red hair has seen many iterations before, but Cherry Pop is a braver, more ebullient red, with a shock of pink that creates a seductive undertone.

It has a mood-boosting quality that’s sure to put a swing in the step of anyone wanting to leave the pandemic behind in style, Cherry Pop is about glamour, creativity and experimentation. It has even won the seal of approval from global colour expert Jane Boddy, who says it “creates a visual vibration that ignites and excites the senses… and reinforces our connection to humanity”. There will certainly be no more social distancing for those taking on this shade.

Sophia Hilton for INNOluxe

SophiaHiltonforINNOluxe

SUNSET INSPIRED CLEAN, VEGAN

3 NEW VIBRANT RICH SHADES

TWO-TONE COLOUR

YOUR CLIENTS AREN’T one dimensional and neither is colour – or it shouldn’t be. As noted in the Pinterest Predicts 2023 trend report, two-tone shades, also known as Gemini Hair, is set to hit salons in a big way as clients look to mix vibrant tones with natural hues. Embracing perfectly imperfect contradictions and the dual-natured essence of the Gemini star sign, blondes won’t have to choose between going lavender or staying how they are, they can have both! The same goes for all kinds of natural/bright shade fusions, such as pairing black braids with shocks of blue.

Paco Latorre, creative director at Live True London Soho, explains why two-tone hair is back with renewed vigour and in-keeping with this year’s themes of innovation and experimentation. “From natural tones to vivid pinks and blues, anything goes! Any hair texture or length can achieve this look.”

VIRTUAL MAUVE BLONDE

IT TOOK INSIGHTS from 1,500 colour experts across 26 countries to land on Revlon Professional’s hair colour of the year for 2023: Virtual Mauve Blonde. This shade’s triple dimension reflect puts it in the same trend camp as multidimensional luxe. The very definition of bold and intense, Virtual Mauve Blonde brings virtual dimensions to the real world. Its triple-reflect colour gives off richness, vibrancy and multi-tonal expression in buckets – perfect for those after a show-stopping ‘who is that?’ effect.

MULTI-DIMENSIONAL LUXE

2023 IS ALSO about embracing what clients have, there are no cookie-cutter shades. So make room also for a more subtle trend: softer and healthylooking multi-dimensional tones.

Think of delicate blondes and brunettes where changes are more subtle yet still impactful, explains Fudge Professional global brand ambassador Jonathan Andrew. He says: “Softer tones will be on-trend particularly for those who usually opt for a bleached blonde look. Soft-light brunettes too; this elevates the usual all-over darker tones with soft highlights that are a few shades lighter than the overall brunette.”

Some clients may want to weave in magenta, but the multi-dimensional look is about giving hair richness and depth rather than a drastic change, he adds: “The tone really complements bigger, more dimensional hair.”

Increasing depth is key, explains Neil Moodie, founder of Neil Moodie Studio. “We’re taking some blonde clients deeper with bespoke toning services, adding more dimension with autumn leaf tints. The colours gaining popularity are natural, light coppers, strawberry blondes, and chai latte. These adjustments are less of a commitment and not as damaging to hair.”

Jonathan Andrew for Fudge Professional

Neil Moodie Studio

Revlon Professional Virtual Mauve Blonde

Victoria Alice Hairdressing

LUXE LOVE

WITH ITS NEW FLUID FORMULA,* LUXE FINISH AND EVEN MORE DIVERSE COLOUR RANGE, NEW-LOOK iNOA BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS IS SET TO REDEFINE COLOUR. SAY HELLO TO A HAIR COLOUR REFORMATION!

Life is about evolving – looking for the newer, the better. Without innovation and the beauty of new ideas, you get left behind…

Reborn for 2023, iNOA – the iconic ammonia-free colour from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris – is responding to the evolution of colour trends and needs, ensuring it’s the perfect partner for your artistry and your business in this new era.

Colour clients want more from their salon colour – more shine, more natural-looking results, more healthy-looking locks – and iNOA has answered. Free from ammonia, it swerves hair damage and doesn’t strip out natural oils, has optimal scalp comfort to combat irritation and tingling scalps, making iNOA a perfect choice for clients who are new to colour and nervous about any negative effects.

With up to 100 per cent white hair coverage,* great colour takes hold and lasts, thanks to its oil base that nourishes and softens. iNOA doesn’t just stem moisture loss, it locks it in with its oil delivery system.

Forget at hues and dense, opaque dark colour; this is a luxury line that shimmers with social media-worthy shine, along with natural-looking and nourished results that are mouth-wateringly luminescent. In fact, with new iNOA you’ll see 48 per cent more shine** – we’re talking mega-watt beams of re ective colour.

New look iNOA is also delivering what colour artists need, too. With a new, more uid consistency, iNOA’s formula means it’s faster and easier to mix, and easier to apply, extend to the ends of the hair and rinse, too.* High impact colour has never been so simple to achieve. Pair your iNOA developer with the perfect iNOA shades and your bowl and brush will be ready to create something beautiful.

ON TREND COPPER ALL THE RAGE? iNOA HAS YOU COVERED WITH TWO NEW SHADES – 7.4 AND 4.45 – TO KEEP YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS RED HOT!

As colour clients increasingly return to salons for that professional difference, ensure you have the colour that delivers precisely what they want. Want to know how to build more business and service opportunities with iNOA? Keep reading…

* Versus previous iNOA.

** Instrumental test, versus before colouration.

STRIKE IT RICH

COLOUR CLIENTS

ARE RETURNING TO THE SALON… BUT THEY WANT MORE.

ARE YOU READY? BUILD YOUR SERVICES, YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS AND YOUR REPUTATION WITH iNOA FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS

There’s a key lesson to learn in business; it’s not always about price, but it’s always about value. Illustrating the professional difference – the stunning results and the bespoke nish clients can’t get from a box – will encourage colour clients to come back to your salon time and time again. Yet the modern colour client is also looking for more...

Salon visits are increasing year-on-year following the pandemic, with a fresh love for professional colour and a dip in at-home colour use.* That’s a great start, but there are still barriers keeping some clients away from colour – worries about damage, scalp health, chemical ingredients and seeking a natural-looking nish also play their parts.** But where there are barriers, there are also opportunities...

“THANKS TO iNOA, I’M ABLE TO RECOMMEND A PRODUCT THAT’S KIND TO HAIR AND ELIMINATES THE IDEA THAT COLOUR PRODUCTS DAMAGE HAIR. I CAN COVER WHITE HAIR, LIFT NATURAL HAIR, CREATE TONE AND DELIVER AN ODOURLESS, COMFORTABLE CLIENT EXPERIENCE. IT HELPS ME CONFIDENTLY RECRUIT NON-COLOUR CLIENTS.”

MARLON HAWKINS, BROOKS & BROOKS

High-impact shine, a comfortable application and an ammoniafree, vegan formula*** means revamped iNOA ticks all the boxes for what colour clients are looking for right now... all wrapped up in a premium service that delivers on luxury experience. By introducing and cleverly promoting gentle colour services to clients concerned by the possibility of damage to their hair or tingly scalps, your salon can win a new audience... and entice them to try more to get the best, personalised results for them.

Within a L’Oréal Professionnel Paris salon, the experience for guests is better than ever. New generation technology ensures optimal scalp comfort while colour develops. No tingles, no unpleasant fragrance, this is a premium comfortable colour service with a bespoke, beautiful result. Choose from a vast portfolio of ammonia-free colour to bolster your ability to build a new revenue stream at your colour bar...

From the luxurious and premium experience of iNOA to the tailored tones of Dia Light and the clever Blond Studio Lightening Clay Powder to deliver brilliantly bespoke balayages, ammoniafree colour delivers an unparalleled opportunity to build on your creativity, curate a thoroughly modern menu and client experience, and see your colour income ascend, too.

These are high beam gleams that shimmer on social media, winning hearts for your clients AND for your salon, helping you convert the colour shy to the colour must-try! You can reach a new colour crowd with iNOA from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris… and keep them coming back for more!

WANT TO KNOW MORE ABOUT NEW iNOA?

SIGN UP FOR ONE OF THE FREE THREE-HOUR iNOA SESSIONS WITH A TEAM OF SKILLED EDUCATORS AND GET HANDS-ON AND TRY THE NEW FORMULA!

MULTIPLE DATES AND LOCATIONS AVAILABLE, VISIT LOREALACCESS.COM

“FROM GLOBAL TO PARTIAL COLOUR, iNOA IS A GO-TO FOR ANY SERVICE WHERE THE NEED IS TO CREATE LONG LASTING, FADE-RESISTANT RESULTS. IT MAKES EVERY COLOUR SERVICE THE MOST PREMIUM EXPERIENCE.”

NATHAN WALKER, TREVOR SORBIE

M Y CO L O U R ,

M Y CO L O U R ,

THREE COLOURISTS SHARE WHAT’S DRIVING THEIR PASSION

“ M Y C L I E N T S WA N T C H A N G E I N 2023”

“ M Y C L I E N T S WA N T C H A N G E I N 202

CHRISTEL BARRON-HOUGH, FOUNDER AND CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF STIL SALON BRAND IN CENTRAL LONDON

Christel Barron-Hough

M Y WO R L D M Y WO R L D

AND THEIR EARNING POTENTIAL IN 2023

“AS WE’RE A salon business that specialises in colour, it’s quite normal for our clients to have a good understanding of colour techniques. All our new clients are happy to have a separate appointment before their service, where we will do a patch test and talk about their lifestyle and what they want from their colour. But it’s very noticeable that there’s been a dramatic upswing of interest in colour and the possibilities of colour, and that clients are looking for change.

“After lockdown it was all about embracing your natural colour – so we went through a period of lots of highlights and balayage. But in the latter half of last year, people started taking a much braver approach and experimenting with a more playful palette. There was a time when we couldn’t do enough bright copper, and even our darker-haired clients were wanting to go a bit lighter – to more earthy tones and less bitter chocolate ones.

“Our new technique, New Age, reflects this shift, capturing the energy and desire for change that we’ve seen since the start of this year. The technique is about a colour ‘feeling’, rather than a specific shade, and it’s one borne out of optimism and excitement for something new. The shades we’re working with – oyster grey, rose quartz, jade green – are more muted and refined than those of a few years ago, and therefore very wearable.

“People come into the salon to escape the outside world – it’s such a lovely place to be. And with the news being all doom and gloom, it’s no wonder hair colour offers an opportunity to get an instant emotional uplift – it’s the new ‘lipstick effect’, if you like. One of my clients, a solicitor, now goes to work with a beautiful shade of peach pink, something that simply would not have been possible 10 years ago. But she actively wanted that change, and she’s making her statement in the most beautiful way!”

“ P R I C I N G A N D CO N S U LTAT I O N A R E T H E H OT TO P I C S ”

“ P R I C I N G A N D CO N S U LTAT I O N A R E T H E H OT TO P I C S ”

HARRIET STOKES, INDEPENDENT COLOURIST AND GLOBAL EDUCATOR

“I’VE BEEN EDUCATING for six years now, independently for the past three, and the students I look after tend to be qualified hairdressers looking for further education. New techniques are being created all the time and I love teaching those, but the three things I’m most commonly asked about are pricing, consultations and burnout. Here’s how I approach these topics:

“Pricing. As colour techniques have evolved, so has client demand and expectation – but how we price for our services has not kept pace. This is not only detrimental to business, it can also make us feel under-valued, too, impacting on our day-to-day enjoyment of our jobs. We need to charge what we’re worth – trust me, you’re going to have a nicer day as a result!

“To set pricing correctly, you first need to break down the actual cost of each colour service you deliver and understand what your profit margins currently are and where they need to be. Check out Maddi Cook’s Boss Your Salon (@bossyoursalon) – her pricing calculator is absolutely invaluable and really helps you through the process. Freelancers need to be especially conscious of costs, but salon-based colourists should also be aware of the actual cost of their services as it helps you realise where you can add extra elements and charge more.

“The consultation. Our whole industry is based on human connections and yet the art of consultation is rarely ever taught. As clients can often be unrealistic about what’s achievable in terms of time and budget –

and can get difficult as a result – I understand why my students are looking for guidance in this area.

“Clients may think they’re experts, but I encourage my students to always be in control of the conversation, in the most nurturing way possible, including using body language and facial expressions. I like to ask my clients to bring in three pictures of hair colour they like, and three they don’t like – giving us something to explore together. Even if their pictures are unrealistic, I never say no. Instead, I lead them through what I call ‘guided discovery’ to where they need to be – using folders of image references that I store on my Instagram, and always with a smile on my face!

“Burnout. As a global educator, I’m often travelling the world, and that can obviously take its toll. Like a lot of my students I’ve felt overworked and overstressed, and the fact is that as hairdressers we need to look after ourselves to be able to perform at our best.

“For the past two years I’ve been on what I call my ‘healing journey’, learning how to keep my mental and physical health in good shape and I touch on this in all my courses now –sharing what’s worked for me. Taking a more mindful approach to my work has not only allowed me to live a more balanced, conscious life and to make better decisions, it’s also kept my inspiration levels high and meant I’m performing at the top of my game.”

Harriet Stokes

“ I P O S T TO AT T R AC T N E W C L I E N T S , N OT TO

“ I P O S T TO AT T R AC T N E W C L I E N T S , N OT TO

I M P R E S S OT H E R

I M P R E S S OT H E R

H A I R D R E S S E R S ”

H A I R D R E S S E R S ”

SARAH BLACK, COLOUR DIRECTOR AT ADAM REED LONDON

“I’VE ALWAYS HAD strong opinions on aesthetics – on how things should look. It’s why I got into hairdressing because I was always changing my own look and spent so much time in the salon. And that continued when I became a colourist and found myself bringing my own ideas to life, even if that meant breaking the rules.

“Some people might call me bossy or stubborn, but staying true to myself has served me well in my career. A lot of my work, particularly in the early years, was pretty explosive and divided opinion. But I’d rather make my own mistakes than try to second-guess someone else’s taste and not get the result I want.

“That being said, when I moved from Aberdeen to join Adam Reed London, I was prepared to shift my thinking to fit in with what was required of me. So I was completely shocked when I was working with Adam on a shoot and he asked my opinion on a look he was creating – I just didn’t see it as my place to critique his work. But Adam is so anti-ego and it soon became clear that he valued me and my ideas. Now, at any shoots, shows or presentations we do together, I’m in charge of making the colour choices, alongside Adam.

“In the salon, our youngsters are taught all the fundamentals of technical work brilliantly, and then I come in and challenge them to think beyond the rules. I encourage them to try and personalise their work, whether that’s something simple, like where they place their foils, or really pushing their sense of adventure. Not everyone thinks like me, of course. It’s about finding a way of working that’s comfortable.

“I feel that an over-saturation of ‘trend alert’ influence kills genuine creative inspiration. All too often we can allow ourselves to be influenced by what we think will look good on Instagram or what we think will shock or cause controversy. I prefer to stay true to what I genuinely feel is an authentic creative representation of me as a colourist, channelled through my use of colour and techniques in styling.

“Nowadays I rarely post work for other hairdressers to look at – all my energy is focused on using Instagram to grow my clientele in London, and I’m finding it quite successful!”

FOR TRUE COLOUR LOVERS, INDOLA’S REFRESHED COMPACT COLOUR ASSORTMENT IS SMALL BUT MIGHTY… WITH A FEW PLOT TWISTS

NEW RANGE, SAME HIGH PERFORMANCE

Drawers stuffed to bursting… cupboards spilling over… bulging kit bags… has your love of colour become obsessive? Stylists want to offer all colour services to their clients, and need to be ready for anything. But keeping every colour possibility to hand can suck up space and spend. You dream of a spring clean…

Now you can embrace your love of colour and streamline your stock with Indola’s refreshed

colour range, complemented by new creative colour additives and service essentials. Featuring the same high-performance vegan formula, Indola’s relaunched PCC range is streamlined yet intermixable, proving that great things come in smaller packages. The formulas are easy to identify, and package information is clear, giving you reliable permanent and demi-permanent colour results.

A REAL HERO

Offer loads of service opportunities without multiple products, thanks to an innovation that – wait for it –substitutes an entire demi-permanent line with just one hero product!

Color Transformer is a minimalist marvel you simply mix into Indola’s iconic PCC permanent range. Suitable for dual application with easy 1:1 mixing, this gentle formula converts more than 80 shades into demipermanent splendour for spectacular root-to-tip results.

Inside, mineral oil evens out colour, making hair feel fabulous to the touch while the pH balancer adjusts colour penetration. And with low peroxide, it’s also reducing potential damage too. Perfect for tempting colour-cautious clients to shorter-term shade solutions.

But that’s not all the clever Color Transformer can do. Use it to refresh colours that are prone to fading such as reds, coppers and purples. Dial down on further clutter with Indola’s compact line of cream developers in four strengths. Used in perfect harmony with all Indola’s permanent colours, expect peak performance, stellar shine and long-lasting, beautiful hues.

GET CREATIVE!

Colour possibilities are endless – and Indola’s Smart Creatives range also helps stylists offer bespoke colour services with CREA-MIX in six intermixable shades to intensify or neutralise tones.

Using these six stellar shades, including clear, fashion your own colour creations or remove warmth. Add the Color Transformer to scale up or cool down. You’re in charge! For the more experimental clients, reach for the brand new CREA-BOLD line. There are eight shades for vibrance seekers, intermixable semi-permanent direct dyes that can deliver the full colour spectrum, from bright rainbow radiance to pastel perfection.

UPDATE YOUR ESSENTIALS

You can also provide extra protection against two of the most unwanted colour results, with Indola’s Service Essentials. Got clients prone to discomfort and irritation? Indola has your back. Its NN2 NO STAIN, NO PAIN hydrates, strengthens and helps hair shine while acting as a barrier against scalp irritation and colour staining. Simply mix it in with your PCC shades, and your sensitive clients will feel the comfort.

There’s also CC2 COLOR CONDITIONING SPRAY, which prepares porous hair for colouring and can be used afterwards on all hair types to smooth and show off new shades. This is a new chapter in your love story with colour, and guaranteed to be a happy ever after!

YOUR STOCK,

BE A TRUE

READY TO STREAMLINE

SAVE MONEY AND OFFER CLIENTS THE FULL RAINBOW OF COLOUR SERVICES?

COLOUR LOVER; VISIT INDOLA.CO.UK

THE COLOURNEWMIX

THE FORMULAS,TECHNIQUES, SPACES, PLACES, LAUNCHES, INNOVATIONS… EVERYTHING NEW FOR THIS SEASON OF COLOUR TO ENSURE YOU’RE AT THE TOP OF YOUR GAME!

THE BLONDE BUILDER

JUST IN TIME for the spring/summer blonde stampede, Schwarzkopf Professional has launched its better-than-ever BLONDME range. Boasting a new formula, its AntiMetal Bond Protection Technology helps lighten and lift with limited damage, producing higher-grade and wellprotected blondes. New additions include Precision Lightener, which offers up to seven lift levels and minimised breakage, while Blonde

Lifting has a new 1:2 mixing ratio giving up to five levels of light-bright lift. There’s also a handy menu of eight techniques to make the most of the revamped BLONDME portfolio, so there’s genuinely something for every blonde. schwarzkopfpro.com

WELLA UNVEILS DEGREE-LEVEL DIPLOMA

COLOUR IS A serious business, and Wella is helping to give it (and hairdressing in general) the kudos it deserves. It’s launching a degree-level colour qualification with Glasgow Clyde College in what it’s heralding as the first of its kind.

The Wella Colour Higher Level Diploma will cover practical skills alongside modules including academic writing, how the economy impacts colour business, and study subjects such as leadership, psychology, and client protection. The course takes 18 months to complete and students will graduate at Glasgow University in a formal ceremony to celebrate (get those mortar boards ready!). The first intake of students will enrol in the summer, and there are plans for colourists that hold the existing Wella Colour Expert certificate to be able to add to that qualification to gain the new diploma. education.wella.com

A drop in time

Vish software cuts down on time and product waste for busy colourists, powering the best colour results for happier clients and less-stressed colour creators

What grinds your gears as a colourist? The pressure to mix the right amount for each service and stressing over surplus? Stepping away to mix more – just when you’re getting into the groove? Hoping you won’t forget to bill an extra service? What about that hair mask that made a client’s colour pop last time – it’s on the tip of your tongue, right?

Take a deep, cleansing breath because Vish has got your back. Not just a colour waste-killer and salon revenue booster – although both make the innovative colour management software a lifesaver – Vish loves the stylist too! With Vish at your fingertips you’ll feel more in control, more confident in your colouring… and you’ll have more satisfied, happy colour clients!

Paint-by-numbers

Vish helps stylists craft colour creations that get clients beaming. Got a regular who wants the same colour? Easy-to-use Vish can recreate the exact shade they loved last time. It also lets stylists change hues subtly, putting a stop to stagnation. Think of Vish as your back-up memory, storing the vital details so you don’t have to, whether it’s that perfect candlelit brunette formula or a super-shiny toning service. Just watch the teardrop graphic fill as colour is added to the bowl. Right on the money, it measures the exact quantities needed.

Better services and boosted profits

Inevitability, a handful of clients won’t always be enamoured with their colour – and that’s life. But Vish lets stylists review the formula to investigate, keeping you service-focused, always. Using Vish also means stylists won’t over-apply colour, which can undermine the result. If a service requires more, it alerts the front desk to add the extra charge, keeping services profitable.

Having Vish in your salon can help create a dream team of colourists, creating better customer experiences. Vish isn’t just about reducing colour waste, it prevents wasted time for colourists, who can get on with creating colour results that thrill.

READY TO SEE YOUR COLOURISTS WORK BETTER AND SMARTER? TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT HOW VISH WILL TRANSFORM YOUR SALON’S SERVICES AND IMPROVE CLIENT FEEDBACK, VISIT GETVISH.COM

HOW TO… CURATE A COLOUR HEADQUARTERS

“BRINGING TO LIFE the Limoz Logli personality, our colour HQ is contemporary, artful and sensorial. We specifically worked with a wonderful interior designer (Emma from Design & That Studio) with no prior experience of designing a hair salon. We worked collectively to create noteworthy interiors that defied the traditional hair salon setting. Our goal from the outset was to create a unique and inspiring space that people are drawn to, and captivated by, immediately.

“Each moment of the experience has been tailored to be a sensory haven. We have played with contrasting colours over our two floors to build an ambience that is approachable, stylish, and memorable.

“Calling upon timeless marbles and other materials we aim to reflect the seamless and refined colour expertise of our brand. We now work with numerous artists to rotate artwork and installations to ensure our space is forever evolving and inspiring.”

Limoz Logli, Limoz Logli Chelsea

COPPER GLORY

RICHER HUES ARE raging in 2023 and L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’s new-look iNOA colour selection has two sizzling copper shades in 7.4 and 4.45. Part of its freshly launched and extra fluid ammonia-free range, colour goes further while keeping up shine and locking natural oils firmly within the hair and scalp. Colour is bold but natural-looking with reliably sensual results. Client after a classy copper? Reach for this colour expert toolkit and venture deeper… lorealpartnershop.com

There’s something new coming to Redken, so make a note to keep an eye on @redken on 9 March. Michelle Marshall, Redken artist and founder of Michelle Marshall salon, has had a sneak peek… “Redken’s Color Gel Oils are not to be missed. The permanent colour results on grey and non-grey hair are phenomenal, saturated with a glass-like shine. A liquid colour that flows through the hair, but at the same time stays where you put it. It adheres to the hairs so well with none of those pesky white hairs popping back out and zero staining on the hairline!”

ALL HAIL THE BALAYAGE MASTER!

IF YOU’RE KEEN to nail all things balayage, check out new Balayage Masters from Salon Promotions. Split into two sessions, this colour course will arm you with all you need to know about, well, everything balayage! salonpromotions.co.uk/ education

AT-TEN-SHUN!

WANT TO BE an elite colourist? Take a look at the new JOICO Color Excellence Program, a 10-day bootcamp that will make you a JOICO Color Expert. From advanced theory to colour correction and creativity, you’ll cover the lot. Find out more at joico.eu

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THE COLOURNEWMIX

IT’S A GOLD RUSH

RUSH HAIR is back in business with Goldwell with jointchief executive Stell Andrew teasing a host of creative events planned for the year. “Goldwell is well known to both the Rush Creative Team and our salons as we had previously partnered with them. We are very excited about starting 2023 with a new colour partner as we have a huge focus on colour throughout 2023 in our salons.”

HOW TO… GET THE BEST RESULTS WITH SEMI-PERMANENT COLOURS

“BEFORE DOING a vivid colour we need to have the perfect colour base. Choosing the correct level and undertone will get the best results. It’s also important that the hair is hydrated and in good condition so the colour will last longer.

“One of the more vital steps is the application itself. To achieve the best result, apply on washed hair that’s been moisture treated to regulate the porosity. Then respect the development time! To finish, rinse with medium-to-cold water so the colours don’t mix and spoil.”

Paco Latorre, Live True London and Directions ambassador

HOW TO… RESPOND TO RISING COSTS

“NORMALLY WE increase prices by promoting our stylists, but this year we introduced a 15 per cent increase for all services before the run-up to Christmas. I used data from our colour management technology to inform if, how, and when we would respond to rising costs. We are seeing increases across the board from rent to supplies to energy. Everyone’s in the same boat.

“Our supplier announced a price rise for January, but even before that we’d decided to up our prices. My focus is on usage and waste. If we can keep colour costs down to around six to eight per cent of sales then I’m happy with that. I watch my Vish data in real-time, and if someone’s usage is creeping up, I can swoop in and deal with it swiftly.”

SUEDEHEAD 2.0

IT’S NOT GOING to be Viva Magenta for everyone, and that’s okay. From ALFAPARF Milano Professional, the focus is on celebrating the “return to experiencing all our senses after living through a time of a global absence of human contact”. Its SENSES collection encapsulates that, alongside its new Evolution of the Color³ Suedes palette, designed to match and enhance any type of skin tone. xpertprofessional.co.uk

Toby Dicker, The Chapel

The Chapel Vish

Putting colours, textures, and finishes at your fingertip with Goldwell. Goldwell’s Color Atelier programme offers a wide-range of services and education to give you, the artist, the space needed to create and grow your business.

#COLORATELIER

SCAN TO WATCH OUR EXCLUSIVE COLOR ATELIER FILM

THE COLOURNEWMIX

POP ART

YOU’VE KNOWN Koleston Perfect for years, it’s iconic. But have you had a proper play with it recently? That’s the thinking behind the KP:POP Collection from Wella Professionals, showcasing the playful, experimental and just blooming fun side of an OG classic. There are techniques and templates to get to grips with too (hello Rainbow Lights!), that work just as well in the salon for tonal shifts and hints of playful shades. Pop it open and have a play… wella.co.uk/educationbook

CLEVER COLOUR

NEW OFTEN means more, adding to what you already have. But what if ‘new’ actually meant less? Take a look at what Indola is up to with the revamp of its colour portfolio. With one new product – Color Transformer – you can convert permanent Indola shades into demipermanent colours. Boom, just like that. For independent colourists and salons with an eye on costs right now, that is the kind of colour innovation that matters. With the capsule collections of new CREA-MIX shades and CREA-BOLD direct dyes too, it’s a clever and practical line-up that will win plenty of fans. indola.co.uk

BONDED IN LOVE

WHEN ÜBERLISS LANDED, you could feel the impact, not least because of this line-up of supercharged colour solutions. They combine direct dyes, conditioners AND the bond-building technology from the brand’s Bond Treatment system. It’s a complete colour option in one handy bottle, no developer required. Perfect for topping up salon colour at home as a brilliant retail offering, or as a gentle introduction to colour for salon clients who want to try something new. Choose from Pink Rose, Purple Iris, Platinum Jasmine, Lilac, or Red Flame. avloneurope.co.uk/uberliss

PALM SPRINGS PINK

AS THE ‘BARBIECORE’ movement continues to reign supreme (influenced by Greta Gerwig’s upcoming Barbie film), we’re going to see more clients embrace pink tones, says Jordanna Cobella, Wella Professionals digital craft expert. However, instead of brilliant hot pinks, she’s expecting clients will experiment and embrace more romantic nurturing neutral tones such as pastel pinks and marshmallows.

“Palm Springs Pink (pictured, left) is a great way for clients to express their confidence and sensuality. What I particularly love about the Palm Springs Pink is that clients can experiment without the worry about longterm commitment, as the Wella Professionals Shinefinity service doesn’t lift your natural base colour,” she says.

J ames Earnshaw and the Wella Professionals Education team

CHANGE MAKERS

AN EASY-TO-USE SALON SOFTWARE SYSTEM WILL TRANSFORM YOUR DAY-TO-DAY LIFE AND BOOST YOUR BUSINESS. HERE’S WHAT IT’S DONE FOR THIS SALON OWNER…

ANDREW FEVE

OWNER, ANTI.DOTE, YORK

@ANTI.DOTESALON

OPENED: 2020

STAFF: TWO EMPLOYED, TWO SELF-EMPLOYED

SALON VIBE: RELAXED, OPEN, FUN!

BRANDS USED: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL PARIS

Q: Was there a eureka moment that led to the creation of ANTI.dote?

A friend put the idea in my head, I went to the bank and asked for money and within three days I had it and I was like: ‘wow I’ve got to open the salon now’! I also wanted to make a change to the way people are treated in the industry, especially younger people. The attitude of ‘you’re down here and we’re up here’. I wanted to create a better environment.

“PEOPLE ALWAYS TALK ABOUT THE CLIENT JOURNEY, BUT WHAT ABOUT YOUR STAFF? IF YOU DON’T HAVE HAPPY STAFF, YOU’VE NOT GOT A HAPPY SALON” ANDREW FEVE, ANTI.DOTE

Q: What does a safe space look like to you?

Removing unnecessary barriers, such as the reception desk. I was surprised to find how many clients dislike it and see it as a gate that says you can’t come through. We also offer mirrorless and quiet services. You can create a safe space that way and by making sure that everybody’s attitudes and the energy you’re putting out are safe and happy.

90% CLIENT REBOOKING RATE

5 STAR GOOGLE CUSTOMER RATING

1,922 COLOUR SERVICES BOOKED THROUGH SLICK IN 2022

Q: What makes you most proud about your salon colour offering?

I’m a L’Oréal Colour Specialist, and because of the knowledge we share as a team, our colour knowledge is the same too. We offer bespoke timings to clients to make sure they get the result they want. We have face-to-face consultations to ensure the booking is tailored to them.

Q: Has using Slick freed-up time?

The biggest thing about Slick is the reports. It’s so easy to download reports for my accountant and pass that data on or talk through it quickly without him having to trawl through it manually. You can compare with this time last year to see where you’re at with ease, and there are future predictions. Slick also saves time on cashing up at the end of the day. Being cashless, Slick helps tally up straight away.

Q: How does Slick help you offer clients a five-star experience?

You’ve got everything in one place, it helps us offer a better experience by streamlining everything so we’re not fumbling around. Some salons might still have clients on paper and need to go through caller history to find them. Also, clients love Slick’s digital appointment cards and text reminders.

Q: Has Slick helped you become more inclusive of client needs?

Slick’s new client tags feature, which you can add on to client files, is great for this. It highlights information about the client you need to remember. When clients have specific needs, such as when someone has changed their pronouns or has neck restraints which might affect usual basin use, the entire team is aware.

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LEARN HOW TO WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER, WITH SLICK. SCAN THE QR CODE OR VISIT GETSLICK.COM/CREATIVE-HEAD FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO BOOK A DEMO

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CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND IT LIST AWARDS ARE SEARCHING FOR THE UK AND IRELAND’S MOST EXCITING HAIR TALENTS, ARE YOU ONE OF THEM?

OPEN TO THE OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES OF SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS, AS WELL AS FREELANCE HAIR PROFESSIONALS, ALL WORKING IN THE UK AND IRELAND

2023 CATEGORIES

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BUILD A BETTER BUSINESS IN ONE MOTIVATIONAL DAY

Monday 20 March 2023

9.15am-5.15pm

The Chain and Buoy Stores, London

Tickets £95 plus VAT*

Salon Smart HUB members pay £80 plus VAT

Book now at creativeheadmag.com/store

*Ticket price includes access to the full business agenda, all-day refreshments, lunch, Prosecco at the closing session, and a goody bag to take home. And you’ll get 24/7 access to our online, members-only business resource, the Salon Smart HUB. Terms and conditions apply

NICHOLAS NICOLA, ATHERTONS SPEAKER

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SPEAKER SPEAKER

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STRENGTHEN THE BOND

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We all love experimenting with hair – but while bleaching, colouring, and straightening may deliver looks we love, they can leave hair looking and feeling less than fabulous.

Stressed tresses need renewal, and Bumble and bumble is set to get clients styling fearlessly again with new Bond-Building Repair Oil Serum. This innovative wonder offers sweet revenge for hair that feels cheated by hardcore styling and colouring,

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“I’m not very rock and roll... I’m in bed by 9pm”

In just a handful of years Grace Dalgleish has gone from being a wide-eyed young stylist newly arrived in London and knowing nobody, to the 2022 Most Wanted Colour Expert and industry darling of gorgeous colour process. She talks over tea with Amanda Nottage about her nan’s salon, the fear of going independent, and eye-wateringly spicy food

IF THERE ARE more than half-a-dozen women across three generations in your family who are all hairdressers, well, there’s a pretty good chance your life is going to be hair, too. It’s all young Grace Dalgleish had ever known, running around her Nan’s Blackpool salon.

Her first mannequin head was a Christmas gift at the age of four. Her first set of highlights? She was eight (with conditioner). “I naturally gravitated towards hair. It is, I guess, just part of my DNA,” she grins, over a cup of tea in London’s Holmes Hotel.

Her mum and auntie run the salon now (nan retired just before lockdown at the age of 80). “My nan lived at the back of the shop and would look after me. I’d spend most of my days in the salon just watching her and my mum. It’s the kind of environment where everyone knows each other, everyone’s chatting.” Even now, the team there are always checking in on how she’s doing. “It’s like a home-from-home,” she smiles.

For anyone who’s seen Grace’s work and follows her beautiful process porn imagery on social media (@gracedalgleishx), knowing that hairdressing is in her bones will come as no surprise. Having won two It List Awards in 2018, then graduating to the Most Wanted Colour Expert title in 2022, she makes brilliantly artistic yet commercial colour look positively effortless… and all at only 27 years old.

The family salon in Blackpool

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

It’s no wonder that she’s become one of the hottest colour educators not just in the UK but globally (she mentions trips to South Africa, Italy and Germany all in the space of one month). But make no mistake, she’s a grafter. Her mum told 15-year-old Grace that she had to get her own experience outside of the family salon, so she started an apprenticeship with her local Saks. She qualified in just a year – she would spend hours and hours working on extra models for assessment – and was fully booked with clients at the age of 17.

Was there a moment where she considered an alternative career? She looks aghast. “Never,” she shakes her head. Really, not ever? “Never, never, NEVER,” she emphasises. “I wanted to be a hairdresser from the day I was born. I never, ever considered anything else.”

Deciding to up sticks for London at 19 was the start of an adventure. Arriving in the capital, she didn’t know anyone, but she was keen to experiment, to get creative. She found herself in a flat share with some Central Saint Martins students, an artistic home hub that couldn’t have been more perfect. “I felt really lucky,” she admits, “like everything was just meant to be. They were incredibly creative, doing everything that I wanted to do and be around. I’d never met people like this either.”

She also found a “home away from home” at Brooks & Brooks, a salon legendary for its nurturing of young talent. “It was that family environment from day one. There were about 40 or 50 people working there, lots of personalities to bounce off and people to take you under their wing. I’ve never felt alone ever, and I feel quite lucky to be able to say that.”

One of those personalities belonged to Marlon Hawkins, a young stylist who’d been there for a year before her arrival. Suddenly, she had a partner in crime… “Our passion for hair really connected us. We were both on the same page, both very dedicated to the craft. We didn’t mind giving up free time. We’d stay late together, have jamming sessions,” she grins. “We grew up together because we assisted Sally and Jamie Brooks on every international job.”

They shared incredible experiences, together for the ‘sink or swim’ moments when mentor Sally would throw them in at the deep end, putting them on stage in front of hundreds of people. “Me and Marlon had each other’s backs. We’d come off stage and straight away we’d be asking each other: ‘how can we improve that? How can we make it better?’. Or if I was having a down day, Marlon would pick me up. We’d always be each other’s rocks. There was never any competition. We knew what we wanted to do, and we’d help each other. I think that’s so rare to find.”

When Grace was named 2022 Most Wanted Colour Expert, Marlon was there to cheer her on… and moments later his name was called out, as winner of the Creative Talent award. It felt like kismet. Even though she describes moving on from that daily partnership as akin to “losing my left arm”, they’re still in constant contact (“I’m meeting him for dinner tomorrow!”).

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

It was also at Brooks & Brooks that her career really began to take shape. Tempted into competition work, she found that the opportunity to experiment suited her, to get out of her comfort zone. “You’re doing something more creative. You’re learning about suitability, how to bring a concept to life, it’s the whole trend together and bringing everything to life,” she recalls. “And you’re looking at what everyone else is doing and learning from your peers and the people around you.”

This helped her hone in on her true vocation. “It wasn’t until I started doing competition work that I realised colour was my journey, it was what I gravitated towards,” she admits. Winning the STAR Award Judges Favourite at L’Oréal Colour Trophy in 2014 cemented that, and she identifies it as the moment her career moved up a gear. “I started getting recognition from competition work, and that work allowed me to find my style with colour

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

and figure out what I was into, what I liked. From there I started to create a brand aesthetic.”

Simply distilled, that brand aesthetic is beautiful, commercially creative work that always has a trend-focused edge. “I like things to be perfectly imperfect, but still relatable,” she explains. “The techniques behind it are always very simple and commercial.”

Combined, it gave her the confidence to strike out on her own last year, a move that she describes as terrifying. “I was ready for my next challenge, to Be Grace, stand on my own two feet, and see what was out there. It was probably the hardest decision I’ve ever made. Being freelance for me was never on the cards,” she says, wide eyed. “I really enjoyed working within a company – having those values and the team environment.”

She’s candid that she didn’t plan any of it. She found quickly that she missed having a mentor figure. “No matter how far you get in your career, it’s always good to have people around you, to support you, to bounce off.”

She worked first with Kit Studios, and then found a home at Billi Currie, the 2022 Most Wanted Best Salon Team winner. That match-up occurred thanks to colour superstar Lesley Jennison (“She’s an absolutely incredible woman”) whom Grace had assisted on session work, and who sees clients there. “I feel part of a team there,” she smiles. “I turn up for the morning meeting, whether I have a client first thing or not. It’s important because then all colleagues have a mutual respect.”

She’s also made the most of the potential collaborations that independence has afforded, with past projects including work with 2022 It List winners Danielle Garner and Lauren Bell. One link-up that has her incredibly excited is with Swedish colourist Sofia Geideby (“The queen of process!”).

Winning at Most Wanted has made a real impact, in more ways than one. “Going freelance, and then to have that recognition… I never expected that in a million years. For me, that was: ‘Okay, I’m on the right page’.”

Her session work has steadily increased, too (“The recognition has been phenomenal”). A Hunger shoot with Rankin, where she assisted Nick Irwin and Lesley Jennison, really whetted her appetite for that world (“It was insane talent in one room!”). Working with the global team at Schwarzkopf Professional, she’s recently shot the Essential Looks collection, again working with Nick, Lesley and Tyler Johnston, among others.

And as a colourist, she recognises the beauty of the process, not just the result. This has been captured in a shoot with photographer Aris Akritidis that nailed both the creative and the colourful. “It was about bringing the whole process to life,” she explains. “We wanted to look at that because I say that I paint hair. It’s always painting, hair is a canvas.”

All this has helped Grace grow in confidence: “I feel like I know my vision and what I’m setting out to do”, something that she needs as she increasingly takes the lead on set. “I was out in Italy shooting a collection that was full-on creative direction. I had to lead the meeting, talk with the

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

photographer about lighting, work with the make-up artist, understand how to direct the team to make sure everyone feels part of it but also understand there’s a job to be done and a brief to meet. There was no-one else to fall back on.”

Her love of education sees her helping colourists to find their own aesthetic, and to pare back. “I like to teach hairdressers that there’s not one single way of doing things, to show how they can find their fingerprint and take my techniques but make them their own,” she explains. “A lot of my students say: ‘You make it so easy. I’d have done a million steps to get that when actually it’s very simple’. We love to overcomplicate things. Sally taught me to simplify, simplify, and if you think you’ve simplified it, simplify some more!”

Her education bookings, alongside shoots and editorials, means there’s rarely a routine or schedule, and there’s constant travel. “I’m living out of a suitcase at the moment, but I know there will be quieter times. It’s exciting, but I need to make time for myself. I take my running shoes, thinking I’m gonna work out every morning because I’m in a lovely hotel, but it never happens because I end up working till 1am!”

When she does get the chance to unwind, it’s hiking with her Bristol-based boyfriend. “We go on lots of walks, the usual nature stuff. I’m quite a wholesome person. I’m very boring, I’m not a party animal and I’m in bed before 9pm,” she laughs. “My work is super creative. I’m not rock and roll. If I’ve got a job on, I’m very much in the zone. I could probably let my hair down a bit more though…”

But she does admit she needs a break soon to refuel. What would be her dream escape? She ponders for a moment. “Somewhere in Asia with loads of spicy food and gorgeous sunsets and sunrises and just beach time,” she answers wistfully. “I love a spicy Vietnamese pho. I like it extra hot, to the point where I cry. I put chilli on everything, Amanda…” True to her word, adding an extra dash of colour to everything in life.

TRUE BLUE

“I met Blue at London Fashion Week when I was assisting Nick Irwin. The whole cast was very individual; it was very much about the character and the person. Blue had this incredible colour going on, almost this kind of tie-dyed burned brunette shade. So I went up to him and I said: ‘Who colours your hair?’. And he was like: ‘I do.’ I said: ‘I have to get you in the salon!’. I wanted to enhance it and bring it to life more. We ended up shooting a whole editorial on Blue and who he is.”

Photography by Aris Akritidis for INFRINGE magazine

Promised land

VIRTUAL EDEN – ONE OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S 1:2023 TRENDS –TAPS INTO MODERN SOCIETY’S QUEST FOR PERFECTION AND THE RISE OF THE METAVERSE. THIS IS LIFE AS A DREAM, A UTOPIAN GARDEN, WHERE BEAUTY AND THE IDEAL OF PERFECTION WIN OVERALL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SIMON EMMETT

SCENE

THE EVENTS AND PARTIES TO BE SEEN AT

WELLA RED BUSINESS NETWORK LIVE

CELEBRATING 25 YEARS, the Wella RED Business Network

Live event welcomed more than 200 guests – Wella RED members, salon managers and owners – to The Belfry Hotel & Resort in the West Midlands for two days of motivational speakers, networking and business building.

From entrepreneurs to a professional poker player, a wannabe pirate to an Olympic icon (Sir Steve Redgrave!), the mix of speakers had something for everyone. The takeaway from the event? This is a time to take calculated risks…

“As a business owner you only ever feel two things: euphoria and terror,” said Priya Lakhani OBE, founder of Masala Masala and Century Tech. “Either disrupt or be disrupted.”

Be More Pirate author Sam Conniff Allende echoed the sentiment: “There are only two things that stop people in business. Fear and admin. Rule breaking is not the risky way to act, it’s the responsible way.”

A panel session found salon owners Collette Osborne, Salv Mule and Anya Dellicompagni discussing the realities of salon life, alongside Clientwave’s Carole Taylor and business expert Liz McKeon. There was also plenty to gain from Linda Moir, who led customer service at Virgin Atlantic and at the London 2012 Olympics. “When crew satisfaction goes up, customer satisfaction goes up. Create the culture inside the team that you want customers to see.”

There was also plenty of fun, with an evening party game that included plenty of (Wella branded!) cocktails, poker, a 360-degree photo booth, dance simulator, close-up magic and music into the early hours.

Priya Lakhani OBE

Caspar Berry

Richard Newman

Linda Moir

Sir Steve Redgrave

Tatiana Suvorova

Oli France

Sam Conniff Allende

THE LAST WORD ON…

Troublemakers

A TEAM NEEDS UNITY – BUT WHAT CAN YOU DO WHEN THERE’S AN AGITATOR IN YOUR MIDST?

THERE ARE PLENTY of elements that make a good team. People working together towards a common goal helps, as does supporting each other through the good times and bad. But this happy equation can be broken by a bad apple in your business. Enter, the troublemaker.

Troublemakers come in many different forms. They can hamper productivity and morale, with their bad attitude filtering through a team and bringing down the positive energy. They might be spreading rumours about colleagues, delivering below-standard work, or relying on others to pick up the slack. Troublemakers aren’t good for business; as other team members might leave your business due to the toxic environment.

Before diving in and confronting the troublemaker, make sure there are procedures in place so everyone knows what will happen if there’s alleged misconduct, explains David Plotkin from HR consultancy, Plotkin & Chandler. “Having a consistent approach ensures fairness, reduces allegations of favouritism, and indicates that inappropriate behaviour will be taken seriously.”

But it’s not enough to have these procedures in place, you must communicate them to your team and remind them. This should help you avoid allegations of unfair treatment when confronting a suspected troublemaker. Alongside this, set up workplace expectations, adds Plotkin.

By setting clear workplace standards and expectations, any deviant behaviours will be seen as such. Make the demarcations clear, leaving no grey areas that allow for troublemaking. But you must inspire as well as discipline. “Spell out and communicate your values, and lead by example,” adds Nick Staab, founder of sales coaching network, Elite Sales Academy. “Carry out regular team meetings, one-to-ones, and invest in team training and wellbeing to show that you care and see them as valued members of your business. Then you will create an environment full of good apples.”

When it comes to sitting down and chatting with the troublemaker, it should be about setting and maintaining expectations, says Plotkin, not “preparing for battle”. With the right procedures in place, the discussion should be less combative, as the company rules are clear on behaviour. The next thing is setting up regular performance management reviews, which should help you nip bad habits in the bud before they worsen. Regular catch ups also help track improvements.

“Most troublemaker situations aren’t built from someone being nasty or wanting to cause issues,” says Nick Ede, chief executive of PR agency, East of Eden. “It’s usually down to a misunderstanding, or management not clearly delineating roles and responsibilities.”

Like David, Nick Ede is a fan of painless confrontation when dealing with troublemakers. He believes that a simple discussion could uncover the reasons for the troublemaking and find solutions quicker. “Most troublemaking comes from insecurity, so it’s best to sit down, work out the problem, find a solution, and move on. The main priority is to treat your colleagues with respect and work out differences and issues quickly and efficiently.”