£4.50 MAY 2015
In print•online•everywhere!
MAY 2015 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Come a little closer
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rom covering greys to rejuvenating blondes, everyday services are now better than ever. Meet Goldwell’s new Perfect Beauty campaign that makes the mundane magnificent. It’s a menu of key services your clients ask for – perfected for them. It’s simple: perfect colour plus perfect condition equals perfectly happy clients
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
READY FOR BEAUTY PERFECTION? It’s time to establish yourself as the preferred client destination: become the salon for perfect beauty
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STILL THEM, ONLY BETTER Make clients love their natural colour even more with Goldwell’s Flawless Brunette Service
“I want an exciting brunette that feels healthy”
Before
LOOK CREATED USING GOLDWELL COLORANCE FOR BRILLIANT COLOUR AND SHINE
A multi-faceted brunette result – with the smooth, nourished hair clients have always wanted
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
PURE AND SIMPLE A natural-looking blonde without the brassiness? It’s every client’s dream and now possible with Goldwell’s Pure Blonde Service
“I want a breezy blonde without being brassy”
Before
LOOK CREATED USING GOLDWELL SILKLIFT CONTROL BEIGE FOR A CLEAR, BEAUTIFUL BLONDE
Are you ready to offer powerful lift, natural-looking blondes and amazing gentleness? Of course you are…
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MAKE THEM FEEL SPECIAL The Shimmering Ebony Service by Goldwell enables you to create special effects for beautiful hair
“I want a sophisticated and classy shade, yet close to my natural colour”
Before
LOOK TONED USING GOLDWELL ELUMEN FOR A LIVELY, GLOSSY FINISH
Silky and luxurious – enhance clients’ natural dark shades with seductive effects
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
GREY BE GONE! Don’t just cover grey. Nurture, smooth and rejuvenate with the Rejuvenating Blonde Service by Goldwell
“I want to look as young as I feel”
LOOK CREATED USING NECTAYA ENRICHED NATURALS FOR A MULTI-DIMENSIONAL SMOOTH RESULT
Before
Clients can now enjoy hair with natural shine, smoothness and manageability
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#NECTAYA
COLOUR SERVICES “Nectaya Enriched Naturals creates the dimensional reflective colour that my clients look for. It has the benefit of being super gentle, while still providing perfect coverage with multi-tones for fresh, younger-looking hair” LISA WHITEMAN, WEBSTERWHITEMAN, LONDON
NECTAYA ENRICHED NATURALS
Grey-haired clients often want what seems to be the impossible: perfect grey coverage that leaves hair smooth while still being gentle. But now you can offer your clients impeccable grey coverage and enrich their hair with a smooth, gentle and ‘young’ feeling with Nectaya Enriched Naturals by Goldwell. Nectaya Enriched Naturals is the first permanent hair colour from Goldwell that can meet all the needs of grey hair clients in one step. The colour cream with keratin and silk proteins works without ammonia and nurtures the hair, meaning stylists can provide up to 100 per cent grey coverage with vibrant colour results while also delivering a natural, smooth and manageable finish.
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BROUGHT TO LIFE Alongside these four services, Goldwell has introduced two new colour innovations to support you in the salon – Nectaya Enriched Naturals and SilkLift Control
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
#SILKLIFT
“I love the precision of SilkLift Control. It’s perfect for clients with dark hair who want highlights as it cuts through warm tones for an amazing cool-tone result” PAUL SCULLY, SCULLY SCULLY, GODALMING
SILKLIFT CONTROL
The business of being blonde is hard work. Clients love the colour but getting it right can be tricky. So how can you achieve perfect blonde results if your client isn’t a natural blonde? Goldwell’s latest innovation, SilkLift Control, enables stylists to easily meet the individual blonde needs of their clients. The high-performance lightener is enriched with a new generation of pigments that – for the first time – are stable during and after the lightening process. The result: a clear, neutral and durable blonde in just one step. So that’s powerful lift, less effort and predictable results all in one simple step. It also creates a perfect tone, even on pre-coloured hair and darker bases, such as on levels five to eight. With Goldwell SilkLift Control, you’ll notice a new brilliance in your blonde clients.
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#PERFECTBEAUTY
ow Goldwell is giving you the chance to make all your clients feel beautiful every day, because it’s only in your salon that beauty comes to life
“My stylist really gets me. He makes me feel beautiful every time”
For more information about Goldwell colour, visit goldwell.com or call 01323 432100
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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
NEWS
INSPIRATION
BUSINESS
RUNWAY
EVENTS
SHOP
COMPETITIONS
Hair by Sasson Academy
EXCLUSIVE
Giles A/W14: Hair by Tony&Guy
Meet the Hair Sisters in Jodie Austen’s ’60s meets ’70s shoot
The latest business-savvy insight with L’Oréal Professionnel
The deadlines are looming – enter Most Wanted and The It List now!
Creative HEAD Magazine
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@creativeheadmag
Shop ’til you drop with online deals from Aston & Fincher
@creativeheadmag
15/04/2015 10:16
“A ONE-STEP BLONDE THAT WILL BLOW YOU AWAY.” --
Paul Scully
GOLDWELL AMBASSADOR UNITED KINGDOM --
NEW SILKLIFT CONTROL Discover our breakthrough blonde innovation – powerful lift and tone control in just one step. For a predictable, clear and neutral blonde with up to 7 levels of lift plus controlling pigments, even on pre-colored hair and darker bases such as level 5–8. Find out more about the Perfect Beauty Service Collection: inspiring looks for your clients that will help you grow your business.
GOLDWELL.com
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BOOK your PLACE FOR THE HAIR EVENT OF 2015! Celebrating 60 years of British hairdressing! This captivating event promises to be the ‘must see’ show of the year.
grand FINAL 60th L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY
Monday 1st June 2015 London, Battersea Evolution For tickets call 020 8762 4555 £200 per person
Hair by TONI&GUY
HAIR INSPIRED
by
FA S H I O N
people’s Award Returns
NOW IT’S YOUR TURN. Vote for your favourite image at www.lorealcolourtrophy.com Closing date 26th May 2015
LOREALCOLOURTROPHY.COM /LOrealProfUK
/LOrealProfUK
#LCT15
NEW BLONDE IDOL #NOTABOXEDBLONDE
All rights reserved. 2014
Chiara Ferragni, Fashion Blogger
Contact your local Redken Sales Consultant or ring 0208 762 4121
BECOME A BLONDE AUTHORITY Customize perfect looking blondes for your clients with New Blonde Idol: › High Lift Shades. Cream haircolor in 8 shades, from icy platinum to balanced beige. › Blue Oil Lightening System. Oil booster and blue powder activator lifts up to 7 levels for perfectly customized results, on and off scalp. › Base Breakers. Perfect for root touchups—1 level of lift in just 10 minutes.
I M I E AK IDE
E WORLDW P S E L E SALONS Y T S V EATI R C SAY N I KEN SPO
THE NEW STYLING RANGE FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS FOR MORE INFORMATION, CONTACT YOUR WELLA PROFESSIONALS ACCOUNT MANAGER OR CALL 01202 595700
WELLA THE HEART OF HAIRDRESSING
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UNLEASH YOUR
CREATIVITY WITH
HEADPAINT DUAL SYSTEM COLOUR
LONG-LASTING, VIBRANT COLOUR RESULTS FROM HEADPAINT PROFESSIONAL COLOUR.
› › › › › ›
Economical dual system colour range for all colour results: permanent or demi permanent Simple and easy to use international colour code numbering system Essential botanicals deliver superb condition and shine Long lasting anti-fade results Superb 100% grey/white coverage Intermixable shades to cover all colouring needs
For more information call 020 7845 6333 or visit: Alan Howard - Scotland, the North and the Midlands T: 0845 345 8535 E: fudge@alanhoward.co.uk Laceys - London, South East, East Anglia, East Midlands T: 01189 302 338 E: info@laceys.biz Salon Concepts - South West T: 01934 623 129 E: enquiries@salonconcepts.co.uk
For more information call UK: 0844 8440 944 | IRE: 01890 812 022
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SALTY, SANDY, SWEATY, COOL D MITE EDIT LI
NEW & LIMITED EDITION NEW AN N • D IO
Defend your clients’ hair against damage this summer with the limited edition Totally Beachin’ range from Bed Head.
MITED EDIT LI
NEW AN N • D IO
Help your clients keep their cool from pool side to high tide - even when the heat is on! Available at cutting edge salons now.
/bedheadbytigi bedhead.com
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Editor’s letter
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34 JOIN US!
We have a fusion of the practical, the passionate and the profound in this issue, which seems to perfectly encapsulate this industry of ours. First up, dive into the nitty-gritty of finding the funds for your own salon in our Business Edit section (page 40), a tease of the support and real-life stories we have on offer in our new No Nonsense Guides, launching this month. Beginning with Start Your Own Salon, and extending to matters such as team-building, PR and marketing and customer experience, these really are handy how-tos for anyone looking to begin – or build up – their hair business. Then we have the passion of our It List It Girl, Ashleigh Hodges, as she illustrates why she won the judges’ hearts – and what she’s been up to since securing her crown (page 100). And finally, the profound, with the incredible photographic story from creative geniuses, Hooker & Young. Simply called Hotel, it’s a vision from which you won’t want to leave. Check in at page 74...
Amanda Nottage Editor
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year
amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine
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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App
It’s your last chance to enter Creative HEAD’s 2015 Most Wanted and The It List Awards! The entry deadlines are 18 May and 22 May respectively, so hurry online to enter! NEW EVENT! On 26 May, we’ll be giving you unprecedented access to celebrity and backstage trends at The Coterie: In Session – a live event in London starring two of the UK’s most exciting stylists: multiple It List winner Jonathan De Francesco, and Claire Rothstein, fashion and celebrity stylist and hair team lead at the 2015 Brit Awards. Hosted by Stylist magazine’s Joanna McGarry, tickets cost £40 and include a goody bag from sponsor BaByliss PRO. Visit creativeheadmag.com/events
@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag
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May
WHAT’S INSIDE 112
FASHION
Percy & Reed presents the beautiful ReLux
ON THE COVER Perfect Beauty from Goldwell
32
100
IN THE FRAME
IT GIRL
Let’s follow Electric Hairdressing’s Patrick Wilson
Step into the world of It List It Girl Ashleigh Hodges
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
AMANDA NOTTAGE
ADAM WOOD
DAVID HAMMOND
DEPUTY EDITOR
EDITORIAL INTERN
BETH DAVIE
ANNA SAMSON
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
ART DIRECTOR
ADVERTISING
NICK JABBAL
LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER
JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ART GRAEME WHITE
creativeheadmag.com
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Creative HEAD Magazine
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk
@creativeheadmag
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
14/04/2015 12:10
rush.co.uk
NOW RECRUITING FOR Stylists Assistants Front of House Salon Managers Apply today at Recruitment@rush.co.uk or call today on
020 3740 3724
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07/04/2015 13:35
WHY BLOW-STYLING IS YOUR NEW SALON HERO. INTRODUCING A DIFFERENT KIND OF PADDLE BRUSH FOR A QUICKER, SMOOTHER BLOW-DRY. Contoured edges guarantees a nice return. The brushstroke holds the ends of the hair right through to the very tips.
Bottled shaped teeth in an overlapping configuration. Extracts surface water for a quicker blow-dry as hair passes through.
Teeth designed to be more rigid, but in motion gives the gentlest blow-dry.
Rounded tips create a reliable and precise pick-up. Ideal for smoothing hairline waves and kinks.
Fixed based teeth delivers free-flowing tension. No pulling, stretching or thinning of the hair.
Separated cleaning grooves makes for easy removal of dead hair.
#trustthebrush Tel: 020 7274 6128
@tangleteezer
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tangle teezer
TangleTeezerUK
www.tangleteezer.com
12/03/2015 11:21
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
CONSUMERS TURN TO ORGANIC PRODUCTS SALES OF CERTIFIED organic health, hair and beauty products increased by 20 per cent last year, according to a study carried out by The Soil Association. Emma Reinhold, trade relations manager at the Soil Association, said: “More and more people are choosing organic hair and beauty products because they care about what they are putting in and on their bodies. Soil Association Certification is seeing new licensees in 2015 with new products as well as existing suppliers widening their ranges to include naturally caring shampoos, conditioners and hair products.” While consumer organic haircare brands are leading the way, many professionals in the hair industry have seen a rise in client awareness when it comes to choosing products that are either sustainable, eco-friendly or have fewer chemicals, too. Darren Potter, Aveda general manager for UK and Ireland, said: “In terms of current consumer behaviour, we’ve noticed that our clients are definitely more aware of ingredients, from taking greater care of what they put on their hair and skin, to the whole holistic concept of wellness and mindfulness.” Johnny Othona, director of Ena Salon in London, added: “Clients have become increasingly aware of products and what’s inside them.” Ena Salon stocks sustainable brand Davines, and Johnny said they’ve seen “a definite rise in product sales in recent years”. Mike Beauchamp, manager for Davines UK, agreed: “We are experiencing unprecedented growth. This is due to a number of factors, including an increased awareness and acceptance of environmentallyconscious products.” The overall UK organic market is predicted to break the £2 billion barrier in 2016, according to the Soil Association.
CREATIVE HEAD
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Headmasters in motion for fashion THREE MEMBERS of the Headmasters Pro Artistic Team created Motown erainspired hair looks for rising fashion star Grace Wales Bonner’s A/W15 Ebonics collection at the V&A Fashion in Motion series in London. Nicole Iroh, Renée Gordon and James Bickmore styled the looks behind the 12 all-male shows for L’Oréal Professionnel and Mizani. Nicole said: “It has been amazing to be working with such diverse textures of hair. The combination of Mizani and L’Oréal Professionnel products have been the perfect partners to tame, style and restyle hair, to not only control but to infuse shine and create stunning hair looks to complement Grace Wales Bonner’s creations. ”
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#CHedit
Q Hair and Beauty raising money for HABB
HABB NEEDS YOU! INDUSTRY CHARITY the Hair And Beauty Benevolent (HABB) is calling on salons nationwide to get involved and make 26 June a national day of fundraising for the organisation. Supporting UK stylists who find themselves facing challenging times – such as going through financial difficulties or dealing with a new disability – HABB helps hundreds of hairdressing professionals every year, but relies on the generosity of donors. In an effort to help raise the £150,000 the charity needs to continue providing assistance throughout 2015, it is encouraging stylists to donate their tips or do something out of the ordinary as part of Hairdressers Helping Hairdressers Day.
JOHN MICHAEL REWARDS APPRENTICES
More than 40 apprentices showcased their budding hairdressing skills as part of the John Michael Hairdressing Academy annual hairdressing competition in East Anglia. Split into three categories – first year, second year and third
year – Curtis Button, from John Michael in Ipswich, won the first year category, while Abbie Keefe, also from John Michael in Ipswich, scooped the second year category and Natalie Potter, from Moons in Diss, won first place for the third year. Each winner received £100 in cash and a bag of goodies from L’Oréal Professionnel. Adam Sloan, managing director of the Men’s Hairdressing Federation and a judge at the event, said: “The standard of work this year was out of this world. This is the third year in a row I’ve been a judge and each year the standard just gets better and better.”
To-do list Your planner for the month ahead...
12 May
FEEL THE HEAT
Taking in four cities, the Wella Professionals TrendVision Regional Heats are not only a chance for salon teams to cheer on the finalists, they’re also a great way to gain a bit of inspiration with the latest looks from some of the industry’s biggest names, such as Sassoon Academy.
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GO TREND SPOTTING
Taking place at The University of Westminster, the Westminster BA Runway Show kicks off the season of Graduate Fashion Shows. Sixteen designers will present their collections, with hair looks created by the Daniel Galvin team for L’Oréal Professionnel.
20 May
MARK LEESON GETS NEW GOLDWELL CREATIVE ROLE
Mark Leeson has been named the first global creative ambassador for Goldwell. The Most Wanted 2014 Colour Expert winner has been an ambassador for Goldwell for almost six years and his new role will see him work with Goldwell on the development of new products, service concepts and imagery.
LA BIO UK AWARDS OPEN
La Biosthétique Beauty Stylist Awards 2015 is now open for entries. The closing date is 5 June and the UK winner will be announced at an exclusive party in Birmingham on 28 June. They will then be invited to the International Final in Paris on 25 October. To enter, visit beautystylist.com
26 May
CATCH THE LATEST TREND
It’s still The Coterie, but with a difference! The Coterie: In Session will see winner of the 2014 It List Fashionista and Visionary awards, Jonathan De Francesco, and fashion and celebrity stylist, Claire Rothstein, present the latest looks direct from the runway and wearable interpretations clients will love back at the salon.
Get your guy clients gorgeous with new label.men (RRP from £9.95), a line-up of seven barbering products developed by the Toni&Guy International Artistic Team. These formulations have been ‘road-tested’ backstage at London Collections: Men shows, so they can take the pace. Get grooming…
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2015 15:34
The Versatility of
UNITEUK
@UNITE.HairUK
UNITE速 PROFESSIONAL SALON SYSTEM
@UNITE_Hair
+44(0)8450340770
UNITEHAIR.CO.UK
#CHedit MY month
AHEAD What May has in store for...
75%
The number of hair and beauty professionals who do not offer patch tests to their customers, according to a study commissioned by the British Association of Beauty Therapists and Cosmetology. Of the threequarters who failed to offer tests, 59 per cent were mobile technicians.
ANNE VECK
ANNE VECK SALONS
IAN MARSHALL
SPARGO HAIRDRESSING
We will be putting into place the creation of Spargoland, possibly the world’s first salon of its type, looking after children and adults with learning and additional difficulties. I also get to spend time with the amazing Spargoland patron, Anna Kennedy OBE.
KEITH ANDERSON
ANDERSON’S HAIR
We are focusing on Plan Bee, a project that helps the honeybee population recover and supports the honeybee-related initiatives around the UK. The salon is hosting a Bee Awareness Day, where clients will be invited to listen to a talk, view a demonstration on harvesting honey and encouraged to ‘adopt a bee’. All proceeds go towards funding a beehive for my children’s school.
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Tamara Ecclestone
I start the month shooting with Casting for its Summer Collection Book, which will be published across Europe. May sees the start of wedding season, and my Saturdays are booked with brides-tobe. I will also be teaching Hair Up at Aston & Fincher and shooting my own 2015 fashion collection.
TAMARA ECCLESTONE LAUNCHES SHOW DRY SOCIALITE TAMARA ECCLESTONE has launched SHOW Dry in Notting Hill, which aims to offer the exclusivity of a private members club with the service of a designer boutique. Drawing on the creative expertise of
session stylists, the salon offers a range of blowdry services in a state-of-the-art environment, starting from £20. Each station features an iPad and complimentary champagne or smoothies are on offer to every client.
Nioxin enters the world of styling NIOXIN HAS UNVEILED its first ever styling range, Nioxin 3D Styling. Much like the brand’s existing haircare line, the styling range promises to boost your clients’ confidence by giving them thicker, fuller-looking hair. Kay McIntyre, Nioxin education ambassador, and owner of McIntyres salons, said: “When clients have thinning hair, they need a range they can trust, giving them confidence to style without products feeling heavy.” The products tackle the three aspects of hair thinning – derma, density and diameter. Behind the range lies two technologies: Pro Thick and Light Plex. Pro Thick wraps the hair in thickening polymers that penetrate the hair shaft, plumping it without leaving a residue on the hair surface, while Light Plex achieves flexible, volumised styles without weighing hair down, according to the brand.
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2015 15:35
HAIR COLOR JUST GOT BETTER
STRENGTHENING ADDITIVE FOR COLOR colorpH lex is a revolutionary service that improves the strength and quality of hair from the inside out, ™
making hair up to 4x stronger and reducing hair breakage and damage during the color or bleaching process.
colorpH lex leaves your clients’ hair looking and feeling stronger and shinier, restoring it to its natural, ™
healthy condition. Available in the best salons worldwide, colorpH lex is distributed in the UK by ICON. For details or to become a stockist, contact +44 (0) 1282 613413 or enquiries@iconteam.co.uk
#CHedit
Just 13 products but infinite possibilities when cocktailed, new Style Link from Matrix includes clever Volume, Hold and Gloss Booster drops to add for your own unique formulations! Ban that brass with the newlook Cool Blonde Rescue Kit from Affinage, which includes revivers Affinage Cool Blonde Shampoo, Conditioner and Illuminator.
RRP FROM £4.99 0800 387608 matrixhaircare.co.uk
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
RRP £19 01794 527111
Fix hair with flexibility and an airy light touch with new ed power from chill*, the ultimate hold power spray for an oh-so natural look.
RRP £11.99 01535 658 499 chill.uk.com
affinage.com
Those Goldwell gurus really are clever – could anything sound more appealing to clients than Perfect Beauty? With four new services for stylists to show clients they really ‘get’ them – Rejuvenating Blonde, Flawless Brunette, Pure Blonde and Shimmering Ebony – and two new products (SilkLift Control and Nectaya Enriched Naturals), the campaign is a great way to make everyday services more special.
Clients can refresh their hair and their wardrobe with the Herra Protect Hair Perfume Clutch Gift Set, which features a full-size hair perfume and mini alongside a quilted clutch bag.
RRP £35
Herra.com
RRP FROM £12.95 0845 071 2326 joicoeurope.com
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RRP £20 0870 034 2380 aveda.co.uk
IN-SALON SERVICE 01323 432100
0845 313 0032
Tight corkscrew curls or loose waves, Joico’s new Curl range helps replenish moisture, target repair and enhance curl memory for full bounce.
Expand every strand with Aveda’s Thickening Tonic Styling Spray, dubbed by Antoinette Beenders as the ideal ‘invisible plumper’ to build mass.
goldwell.co.uk
Fashion-savvy clients will go crazy for this Bora Aksu scarf, designed exclusively for KMS California as part of its Session + Fashion campaign. Let’s go crazy with three new shades from Osmo Colour Psycho – Wild Green, Wild Teal and Wild Orange.
RRP £7.99
SALES@OSMO.UK.COM osmo.uk.com
RRP FREE WITH TWO PURCHASES (ONE FASHION FAVOURITE) 01323 432100 kmscalifornia.com
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2015 15:36
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
Blumarine A/W15, courtesy of Wella Professionals
FOR THOSE IN YOUR CHAIR who like to look a bit different, who love a unique approach, we think they’ll be head over heels for EIMI from Wella Professionals. The new styling line-up celebrates individual style and was put through its paces backstage at Fashion Week A/W15 shows such as Issey Miyake and Blumarine by Eugene Souleiman. By the way, his favourite is dry shampoo Dry Me, which he loves to use to give a little root lift. However, there are oodles to get excited about – grippy but shiny Sugar Lift is perfect for texture without heaviness, while Perfect Me smoothes and defines while protecting and repairing. Where to start?
RRP FROM £9.20 CALL 01202 595700 wellaprofessionals.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... CC CREAMS
CREATIVE HEAD
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Further proof that skincare is influencing haircare trends with antioxidant-packed Color Corrector Blondes from L’Oréal Professionnel’s série expert eradicates brassy tones, and a brunette version will follow later this year.
Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Color Freeze – now with pH 4.5 Balancer Technology for a longer-lasting colour – includes the protective and restorative CC Cream for fans of irons and heat styling.
RRP 12.49 0800 072 6699
RRP £13.25 01442 278000
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
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14/04/2015 12:15
FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...
£31
A GIFT WORTH
CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 THE THREE NEW COLOR PSYCHO SHADES FROM OSMO – WILD GREEN, WILD ORANGE AND WILD TEAL – AS WELL AS THE OSMO COLOR PSYCHO COLOR TAMER, WORTH £31.37. FIVE LUCKY SUBSCRIBERS WILL RECEIVE THE FULL OSMO COLOR PSYCHO RANGE, WORTH £87.30.
*TO SUBSCRIBE
AND FOR FULL TERMS AND CONDITIONS VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MAGAZINE OR CALL 01434 610935
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*For full terms and conditions, visit creativeheadmag.com. All product prices stated are RRP
FOR EVERY SUBSCRIBER* YOU’LL ENJOY...
15/04/2015 09:30
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WANT IT? SHOP IT! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM BRINGS YOU EXCLUSIVE BRANDS, THE BEST DEALS AND THE CAN’T-LIVE-WITHOUT ESSENTIALS. WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? POWERED BY
Tools of the trade
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EVO BRISTLE BRUSH KIT
KASHO IMPRESSION 5.5" OFFSET
A professional range of combs built to last – heat resistant to 220˚C and engineered with a gradually decreasing pitch to deliver even tension.
Designed by a hairdresser and all individually named to suit your personality, the evo natural bristle brush kit comes with a free bag.
These best-selling Japanese scissors feature variable tension and the new ratchet central adjustment system allows controllable tension setting.
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This mains-operated professional trimmer is perfect for edging and designs, with a cutting length of 0.2mm to 0.4mm.
A complete up-do pack contains bun rings, up-do roll and pad, Head Jog 50 brush and waved grips. Available in dark or light.
An innovative argan oil-infused range, Morrocanoil Smooth Collection transforms unruly hair into sleek, shiny and impossibly smooth locks.
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15/04/2015 15:38
Italian Designed, Italian Manufactured, Aston & Fincher Service. Ginevra Chair £379 + VAT
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#CHedit Spot the hea d cas es!
Behind the scen es from a Bea uty Wo rks tuto rial
Worki ng wit h g hd Victo ri a ’s Secret
My L’Oréa l Profess ionnel ID Artist pass
at
In the frame Electric Hairdressing’s Patrick Wilson snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
At London Fashion Week
The ghd art tea m tries a six strand fa mily braid
RISING STAR
A look I created at the Ha rvey Nichols fashion show
Why did you want to be a hairdresser? I knew school wasn’t for me: Maths was boring and PE? You have to be joking! I started doing my friends’ mum’s hair in plaits and I found it really enjoyable. When I joined a salon I realised I wanted to be colour creative and took to it much more than cutting.
50 shades of grey!
#BigH airDontCare Red Carpet Hair Up course for ghd
What have been your highlights so far? Winning the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Young Colourist Award. It has helped me grow in confidence and get recognised for a passion that I want to express every day. Competing doesn’t go unnoticed; new clients have
researched online, it’s publicity with a click of button and our clients can see just how amazing it is! Where do you see yourself in 10 years time? I would love to be able to win the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and to teach. I also want to start travelling with work and delivering education abroad.
What would be your dream hairdressing gig? I want to be a L’Oréal Professionnel Colour ID Artist. I’m going to push for that this year and audition in June. Demonstrating and presenting is something all young hairdressers are afraid of, but it’s key to take things on that you don’t feel as strong at doing!
NAME: GEORGIE MATHERS AGE: 23 SALON: TONI&GUY COVENT GARDEN
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
What they’re saying about… The new Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel. Find out what’s so good about the range and why it’s what you need for brilliant blondes this year
I love the new Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel. I recently applied the High Lift Ash on Twiggy, using my Brickwork technique to give her a naturallooking shimmering blonde result” DANIEL GALVIN OBE, DANIEL GALVIN
It helps leave the hair feeling silky soft and looks smooth and shiny from root to tip, which is a great benefit for a blonde service. I really recommend Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel” CHRIS WILLIAMS, RUSH HAIR
Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel really exceeded my expectations in terms of the cool, crisp blonde that it delivers. Clients are even more excited when they hear about its antibrassiness effect”
NATHAN WALKER, TREVOR SORBIE
I can achieve different blonde looks for my clients with the sophisticated palette of shades Majirel High Lift offers. Also, I was impressed by how easy it is to mix a number of the shades to deliver bespoke blondes”
ALAN EDWARDS, ALAN EDWARDS SALONS
It is so easy to use. The consistency is really creamy and smooth, and as a result mixing and application is really simple. We have been really happy with the results and look forward to using it more and more” LAURA CAPRIGLIA, MACK
The year of blonde
If there is any colour that sums up what 2015 is and will be all about, it’s blonde. The catwalk loves the crisp, clean colour, while celebrities are making blonde the coolest shade on the block. Make sure you’re ready to meet client demand for this cool shade with Majirel High Lift – L’Oréal Professionnel’s coolest, most neutralising blonde yet. It provides up to 4.5 levels of lift with a palette of intensely brightening shades for shimmering results. The new formulation is a blend of cooler reflects, precisely calibrated to deliver increased levels of neutralisation. It is also enriched with Majirel’s famous Ionéne G and Incell. Hair feels soft and looks smooth and shiny. To celebrate the year of the blonde, L’Oréal Professionnel has introduced a new service to complement its new Majirel High Lift range – The Shimmering Blonde Service, as seen on the brand’s new colour muse, Twiggy.
Make sure your salon is ready for the year of the blonde. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/haircolour CREATIVE HEAD
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#CHedit
Inside story JAMIE HILL, SWANSEA Already established on the exclusive Swansea Marina, the Jamie Hill salon has now tripled in size in a fresh location, offering an evolved salon concept. “Everything in the salon has been sketched and designed by us, even down to finding the unique design pieces, both vintage and reclaimed,” explains owner Jamie. Inside you’ll find his trademark custom graffiti wall alongside shelves stocked with Unite goodies. Some elements have carried across from the previous layout, such as the Mini trunk reception table and the chapel pew waiting area. While Aston & Fincher is behind some of the furniture such as the chairs and mirrors, key pieces including the Welsh dresser and oak dining table have been reclaimed, while the piano has been passed through generations of Jamie’s family. The lounge, with its open fire, affords stunning views of the Marina – client relaxation is guaranteed!
HOT BUYS
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Available in a choice of 47 different upholstery materials at no extra cost, and in one and two-tone variations, the best-selling Vanessa chair from Salon Ambience is a chic seat for any interior. RRP from £319 until the end of August (originally from £609) kris.dade@salonambience.com salonambience.com
BLUE TIT BROCKLEY SEE MORE summer deals from Salon Ambience in the free brochure with this issue of Creative HEAD! 34
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The latest addition to the Blue Tit family is a heavenly hive of modern touches and eco chic.
CREATIVE HEAD
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION SEE MORE Grow your business with L’Oréal Professionnel and Creative HEAD. Visit creativeheadmag.com for more
Better off blonde *Google Trends public tool data 2015. **Relish qualitative research data
Find out how you can grow your blonde business with L’Oréal Professionnel FROM ICONIC HOLLYWOOD platinum blonde locks to more natural, sun-kissed strands, there’s no doubt blonde is big business for S/S15. And it’s not taken long for this trend to filter down to consumers, with searches for ‘blonde hair’ on Google* up 26 per cent year-on-year. Ensure your blonde offering in the salon is the best it can possibly be and ask yourself this: what do your blonde clients want and are you offering them a tailor-made service? According to qualitative research,** it’s not about just any blonde – it’s got to be the right blonde, so make sure that your consultations with clients are thorough. They may want a champagne blonde, but it has to suit their individual skin tone – be confident you’ve identified
the right shade to complement their overall look with L’Oréal Professionnel. L’Oréal Professionnel Education offers a number of courses to help you deliver a quality experience to your clients every time. For S/S15, ‘natural’ is a strong trend for blonde women, so anything that looks fake, dull, bleached or brassy is a big no-no. Blonde clients are looking for a colour result that is a blend of tones that achieve a more subtle finish. To achieve this, your salon has got to have a suitable palette of colour shades. New Majirel High Lift by L’Oréal Professionnel, for instance, is ideal for creating cool, delicate blondes that shimmer in the sunlight. So make 2015 the year to perfect the blonde offering in your salon, with L’Oréal Professionnel.
Grow your colour business now with L’Oréal Professionnel. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/haircolour CREATIVE HEAD
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BIG IDEA
ANDREW BARTON
at Urban Retreat WITH 50 STAFF and an astonishing annual turnover of more than £3m, the Urban Retreat hair salon at Harrods is successful, but has never quite matched the prestige of its beauty sister. But that’s about to change with the appointment of celebrity favourite Andrew Barton as creative director, who has plans to make lots of noise about the brand both within the hair industry and with consumers. “The objective is clear,” explains Andrew. “We will lift our profile as a creative force through education, seminars, competitions and events. We’ll also be shooting a signature collection, BEautiful, that’s very client focused, talking through the ages of Urban Retreat.” It’s a strategic move by owner George Hammer and ties together hair and cosmetics. “Andrew will take Urban Retreat education a step further for our already talented team and add a new dimension to our salon by linking hair services to our new make-up department,” explains George. “This will define a new multi-dimensional image for Urban Retreat which will be elegant, sophisticated and on-trend.” The sad closure of the Andrew Barton salon in February means joining Andrew at Urban Retreat is technical director AJ Blackadder and artistic director Tracey Gallagher as a “ready-made dream team”. Initially, Andrew will be setting up a creative team, an assistant creative team and hitting the salon floor straight away. “The team needs to know I’m not just turning up once a month,” he stresses, “and I’ll be putting into place development plans for every single team member.” And with former manager Marcus Allen rejoining the salon this summer, we wouldn’t bet against the brand finally realising its potential and becoming a formidable force in the hair industry – and beyond.
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ANDREW BARTON
CREATIVE HEAD
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Image courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel
CLOSE-UP
JONATHAN SAUNDERS S/S15 ‘Tough, young and definitely not romantic’ was the brief Luke Hersheson for L’Oréal Professionnel received from Jonathan Saunders. Forget the beachy waves you’ve seen at so many previous S/S seasons, this has a whole new approach. Luke developed a new texture by baking Tecni.ART Constructor from L’Oréal Professionnel onto dry
hair before creating a zigzag wave with a few dexterous flicks of the irons. It’s still pretty but it has a new edge that fashion-savvy clients will adore. “This is the wave texture that you want to achieve when you braid your hair overnight but you never quite get,” muses Luke. We love it – baked, not fried.
WANT TO SEE the very latest hair looks from the catwalks? Download the Runway App now! Visit creativeheadmag.com for more 38
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CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 13:09
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14/11/14 12:12
THE BUSINESS EDIT YOU WANT YOUR OWN SALON – BUT HOW DO YOU FIND THE MONEY? BANKS ARE OFTEN CAUTIOUS BECAUSE THEY FEEL STYLISTS LACK BUSINESS NOUS AND ARE LESS LIKELY TO TAKE A RISK, NO MATTER HOW PASSIONATE YOU ARE
WHEN BANKS DON’T WANT to lend you the money to help you start your business, you need to think about other options. “Securing the money to start your own salon is very difficult at the moment, as most banks are reluctant to lend, no matter how good your business plan is,” admits Westrow director, Steve Rowbottom. “What you really need is equity, and if you have this in your home, there is more chance you will be able to secure a loan for your business.” Or indeed, use that equity to go it alone, as Darren Ambrose did when he co-founded D&J Ambrose. “When Jackie and I set up our salon we sold our house and moved into a caravan so we could fund it without borrowing any money,” he recalls. “Unless you really need to borrow, using your own funds means you’re always in control of your own destiny.” “We remortgaged our house to raise 65 per cent of the capital,” adds salon owner Karine Jackson. “For a few years I was then paying double repayments off the mortgage – then with house price increases I had great collateral to be able to remortgage.” Often it’s the Bank of Mum and Dad who may be helping out on that first big step, but it’s still a business arrangement, so plan accordingly. “If you borrow from family, be realistic about your repayments and don’t over-promise and under-deliver on any agreements,” advises Steve. A franchise might be the way forward, and if you are part of a franchise operation, such as Westrow, your product manufacturer will allow you to offset your discount on products purchased against a secured loan, via your franchisor, or family, for example. “As a result, there are no
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real repayments; instead you pay the list price on products rather than the discounted rate you would receive. The more you spend, the faster it’s paid back, which is a huge incentive,” explains Steve. “Another way to save money on your initial outlay is to lease or finance your furniture, so you don’t have to buy everything outright.” The Start Up Loans Company was set up to offer an alternative source of finance for those with a viable business idea but no access to finance, and following refusals from banks. The loans are paid back within one to five years, and set at six per cent annual interest. “Every loan application is considered according to the needs of the business, with an average loan size of about £5,000. The maximum we will lend is £25,000,” explains Maria Goodall, marketing communications manager at the Start-Up Loans Company, which has backed a number of new salons. “A Start-Up Loan is a personal loan for business purposes, so this means you are not required to secure the loan against any asset such as your property.” In addition to a five-year bank loan, Karine was lucky enough to get an investment loan from a friend, but warns to consider that move carefully. “I wouldn’t recommend borrowing from friends as they will want to have an input that you may not always agree with. They can feel it is their business and you need to manage this correctly,” she admits. “At the end of the day they want you to do well. I managed to pay this loan off in the first year.” The best piece of advice? “Don’t overborrow,” suggests Karine. “I aimed to have all loans paid off in the first five years, which was a great feeling.”
FROM INSIDE
THE SALON TIM SCOTT WRIGHT THE HAIR SURGERY
I funded The Hair Surgery from personal savings and a government small business funding scheme called BCRS (Black Country Reinvestment Solutions). I had some savings but nowhere near enough, and three high street banks knocked me back. My accountants were very supportive and told me not to give up and helped me get the financial part of my business plan really up to scratch. They alerted me to the government scheme – I had to apply with a full business plan. I also had to accept certain terms of creating a certain number of jobs and also a certain number of apprenticeships. The scheme does have higher interest rates than a bank, so for our first year we’ve had large payments, which we knew we could afford. However, now we have a trading record, we’ve been able to go back to the bank and get a loan to pay off the government loan at a more favourable rate. READ MORE about Tim’s story and get loads of great ideas in our Start Your Own Salon guide (RRP £5), available at creativeheadmag.com/ store
CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 15:18
Drop Red Gorgeous
Reveal new radiance and colour intensity with ed red by chill* Created especially for red heads, this luxurious shampoo moisturises and protects natural or colour treated hair, as the conditioner infuses exclusive colour pigments to illuminate and enhance red tones ! Go on, be a vixen !
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#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
WHEN IS £35 BETTER VALUE THAN £25?
VALUE FOR MONEY CAN’T BE JUDGED SOLELY ON PRICE, IT’S THE ADDED EXTRAS THAT MAKE THE DIFFERENCE KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
CHARLES WORTHINGTON CHARLES WORTHINGTON SALONS
You get out of life what you put in. The achievement of success is a complex process but sheer ongoing hard graft and focus will do much to fulfil your ambitions. Each day is only as good as you make it. I wake up and remind myself how fortunate I am in so many ways. I take nothing for granted and try always to have a positive and realistic outlook. Don’t be overtaken by ego. There are many genuinely talented individuals in this world, but sadly I have seen potential unrealised and thwarted by selfimportance many times. Life and work can balance. I take as much pleasure from my career as I do for my enjoyment of sport, maintaining good health and wellbeing, and having fun with family and friends.
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I OFTEN HEAR people talk about great value but what does it actually mean? A bargain product that breaks quickly may have been cheap to buy but is poor value because it has to be replaced. A better quality product that costs more but lasts longer is often better value. You will all have heard about USPs – unique selling points that make your salon different from others – but have you heard about VAPs? Value Added Propositions, or extra content or features that make one product better value than another. Well what does this mean? Let’s travel back a few years to the days when you all had an MP3 player, and you had a phone, and you had a camera, and you spent hours in front of a PC. Four items, four purchases all solving different needs. Then someone built a music player into a phone, which gave one phone a VAP when compared with another. Then someone built a camera into a phone which already contained an MP3 player. Then someone built a camera and an MP3 player into a tablet on which you could watch movies and download other online content and answer phone calls and operate software and cook the dinner and iron the shirts and do the housework. Okay, maybe those last bits were just my wish list, but look at the extra value we get each
time another feature is added. The weird thing is that even though one piece of kit can now do the job of four or five older pieces of kit, it doesn’t cost four or five times the price – but it does cost more! We are happy to pay more because it offers better value. So here is the challenge. How can you give better value but still raise prices? Easy – create some VAPs. I will share with you just one idea that would appeal to me as someone who has a haircut every three to four weeks. The male grooming market is probably the fastest growing sector of our industry, but why should I pay £35 for a haircut in a salon when I could pay £25 in another? One salon gives me a good haircut. The other salon offers me a good haircut, product advice, skincare advice, possible ideas on how to change my style, and a complimentary neck tidy-up at any time within 14 days of my original haircut. Which offers me better value? More importantly, which one would I recommend to a colleague? One final thought. What percentage of clients would not actually bother to have the tidy-up even though it was complimentary? Probably about the same percentage that never use their Caffe Nero free coffee card, even though they bought a cup of coffee, collected a card and had it stamped. They will still go back to Caffe Nero though!
WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2015 15:40
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#BusinessEdit
DIGITAL VOUCHER PLAN FOR APPRENTICESHIPS
Salons could pay for apprenticeships through a system of digital vouchers, the government has announced. The NHF has given the latest move a cautious welcome, arguing that, in principle, this could be a solution to concerns about the potential burden on salons of having to take on the administration of complex training budgets. The government has made it clear it wants employers to take charge of apprenticeship funding, as well as make a cash contribution, when the new employer-developed ‘trailblazer’ apprenticeships launch, probably next year. Under the digital voucher scheme, an employer would register its details with the Skills Funding Agency. It would supply details of its business, the apprentice and the apprenticeship standard (in other words hair, beauty or barbering) it is signing up to. It would then be issued with a digital voucher, which would include any discounts or offsets to the cost of training, for example if the apprentice is aged 16 to 18 or it is a small or micro business. The employer would then pass the voucher to the training provider, which would reclaim its value back from the Skills Funding Agency.
PAYROLL PENALTIES Salons are being reminded that HM Revenue & Customs has introduced new monthly fines for small businesses that report payroll information late. Depending on their size, businesses now risk fines of between £100 and £400 a month for submitting their Full Payment Submission late, not sending in the expected number of submissions or failing to send an Employer Payment Summary. The new regime brings small businesses into line with larger employers, which have been subject to similar penalties since October last year.
HOLIDAY PAY RULING ‘COULD COST SALONS’ SALONS ARE BEING advised to review how they calculate holiday pay, following a tribunal ruling that businesses must include commission payments within holiday pay. The ruling revolves around the case of a salesman with British Gas, Mr Lock, who argued that because 60 per cent of his monthly salary had come from commissions, his holiday pay should reflect that. It’s now UK law that, if a worker’s pay usually includes commissions, then their holiday pay should include this too. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said the NHF has always advised salon owners to include commissions but the ruling would inevitably “push up wage bills” for salons that had previously failed to do this. She added: “We advise salons owners to look over the past three months and use the average to calculate a fair holiday pay rate for employees who receive commission.” One good piece of news is that it doesn’t look like salon owners are going to be inundated with backdated claims for holidays taken in previous years. Andrew Willis, head of litigation at Croner, operator of the NHF’s Legal Lifeline, said: “Any tribunal action alleging an underpayment of holiday pay must normally be brought within three months.” The NHF has produced a factsheet, which can be found at nhf.info
Photographic competition opens This year’s NHF Photographic Stylist of the Year competition is now up and running and open for entries. The competition is a fabulous opportunity for stylists to experiment and innovate to create high-impact, visually stunning photographic images. The cut-off for entries is 12pm on Friday 18 September. This year there are four categories: • Male and Female Fashion Look (students and trainees working towards Level 3). • Male and Female Fashion Look (open to all). • Male and Female Fashion Collection (open to all). • Male and Female Afro-Caribbean look (open to all). TO ENTER: Step one – Create your fashion look. Step two – Take your picture. Step three – Complete the entry form that can be found on the NHF website at nhf.info. Either upload your images or send them to the NHF on a disk. Entry costs between £10 and £30, depending on your chosen category, full competition rules and terms and conditions can be found at nhf.info
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 44
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#BusinessEdit BUSINESS
barometer
SEE YOU AGAIN SOON?
YOU’VE RUN THE ADVERTS, tweeted your news, and pushed some enticing introductory deals to get people through the doors – now how do you encourage that client to rebook? Our reader panel showed that loyal clients of five years or more made up between 30 to 80 per cent of customers (the majority stood at 70 per cent), with more than half of salons using a loyalty scheme to tempt customers back through the doors. Keeping in touch with clients across social media helps to keep them interested in the brand and what you’re up to, according to the majority of respondents. Across the board, word of mouth was seen as the most effective way of bringing in clients. “We have used word of mouth/recommend a friend for 30 years to good effect – better than anything else we have done,” admits Jeff Goodwin of Jeff Goodwin Hair in Exeter. “Rebooking varies tremendously. It’s partly to do with age: the over 40s tend to rebook, younger clients don’t.” Ensuring your receptionist is on the ball and asking clients to rebook can make a big difference. “We ask everyone, and about 75 to 80 per cent rebook on the day,” admits Jane Crane from TC2 in Maldon.
56%
44%
57%
USE OFFER A PROMOTIONS TO ENTICE CLIENT LOYALTY SCHEME CLIENTS
FIND WORD OF MOUTH TO BE THE MOST EFFECTIVE WAY OF REACHING NEW CLIENTS
HELP PROMOTE THEIR 25% OF RESPONDENTS USE PR TO SOCIAL MEDIA CHANNELS SALON, WHILE 75% REGULARLY USE
MARCH 2015 How was business in March 2015 compared with February 2015?
STEADY
6%
DECLINING
How was business in March 2015 compared with March 2014?
DECLINING
13%
18%
STEADY
13%
GROWING
82%
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GROWING
69%
Top tips KEEP THEM COMING BACK FOR MORE! DO YOU KNOW how many new clients visited your salon last year? If you do that’s fantastic… but do you know how many of those new clients returned? We know how hard it is to attract new clients; just to get them through the door at times can be a struggle. So once that new client has stepped into your salon, it’s down to you to ensure they never want to venture anywhere else. It is important that your client visits are monitored so you can keep track of those who are returning and, more importantly, those who aren’t. Your salon management software can help you to do just that and will allow you to discover what your client retention rate is. Once you know this, you can put systems in place to help get those first-timers back through the door and maintain a strong relationship with your regular clients. A great way to build lasting client relationships is by introducing a loyalty scheme. Try giving your clients a salonbranded loyalty tag for their keyring and reward them with points for each service or retail product they purchase (your software should track this for you). To keep the scheme fresh and exciting, change the services they can redeem their points for on a regular basis and consider running double point events during quieter periods. After all, client loyalty should always be rewarded.
Gregory Saunders, salon and spa consultant at Premier Software
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE
CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 15:20
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15/04/2015 11:36
REFLEX OMBRE
COLOUR
DECODED The ombre effect has never been more popular - but why stick to just blondes? This technique can incorporate any of the shades from the Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal colour range to allow every client to have on trend technique.
WA R M I T
This issue, Colour Decoded opens up these possibilities showing you how to create the easiest ombres with either warm or cool shades from the Igora High Power Browns collection. Exclusively in Creative HEAD, Colour Decoded is set to crack the colour code. The dynamic duo of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Global Colour Ambassador Lesley Jennison and Head of Education and Events Stephen McDowell are on hand to guide you through all things colour for 2015. With helpful hints and tips from our colour gurus in partnership with Schwarzkopf’s leading trend collections and product innovation, Colour Decoded is guaranteed to arm you with all the information you need to be on trend and deliver every client’s dream colour.
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COOL IT D
UP
OWN
Stephen McDowell As head of technical for Schwarzkopf Professional, Stephen is the creative force responsible for training, inspiring and educating stylists across the UK and Ireland. Lesley Jennison Her radical vision and flair for colour took her from Vidal Sassoon apprenticeship to global recognition and has made her the ‘go to’ name on every celebrity’s lips for unsurpassed colour genius.
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H OW TO C RE AT E T H E PERF ECT OM B RE LESLEY’S TIP:
look it’s best To achieve a soft ombre s within a ice cho de to keep your sha e different oos Ch up. gro al ton similar h other eac nt me depths that comple hs ngt stre per elo dev and choose ount of cleverly to achieve the am h shade. lift desired between eac
WARM IT UP WITH OMBRE The Ombre Kiss Colour Technique creates a soft colour blend, it allows you to merge your colours from a darker, richer colour at the root area, blending softly down through the mid-lengths, finishing with a lighter, softer colour result on the ends. This look is easy to achieve; here’s how to do it:
LESLEY’S GUIDE TO “WARM-IT-UP” • Identify where you want to place your ombre and divide the hair into four areas in a ‘hot cross bun’ sectioning pattern • Gently backcomb the sections you wish to lighten up to the line of demarcation. This method gives a soft, gentle ombre blending, so no harsh line is visible
• To create a soft caramel beige tone, apply HPB B-4 + Igora Royal developer 12% (40Vol.) to the mid-lengths and ends, merging up to your backcombed line • Use foil to protect your colour • Once your HPB B-4 ombre is completed, warm up the root area with Igora Vibrance Gloss & Tone 4-65 + Igora Vibrance Gloss & Tone 4% (13Vol.), gently merging down towards your backcombed demarcation line • Igora Vibrance Gloss & Tone has a shorter development time, making your colour technique a speedy, up-to-date colour service • Leave to process following manufacturer’s instruction
LESLEY’S HINTS AND TIPS • To create a multi tonal effect getting progressively lighter from roots to ends, 3 shades may be used • Remember, when lifting naturally darker hair types, the hair will always have a warmer end colour result. The addition of a cooler tone may neutralise some of this natural warmth
H P B CO O L- IT-D OWN If your client is naturally darker, take advantage and add some drama to those luscious, dark locks! Petrol blues and emerald greens are bang-on-trend and are now easy to achieve. Choose colours that complement each other but go for bolder tones.
LESLEY’S TIPS TO COOL IT DOWN • HPB 33 + Igora Royal developer 12% (40Vol.) adds perfectly cool and intense petrol tones to dark hair • Place your foils so as they are subtly veiled underneath any parting within the haircut. Take bolder, horizontal slices or weaves as this allows the colour to shimmer through on dark hair • Apply the colour HPB 33 through the length of hair, holding the tint brush vertically at the root area to create a softer, irregular line • Once your foils are in place apply a global colour to complement the slices of petrol blue • Igora Royal 5-1 (1 part) + 4-13 (2 parts) works perfectly to create a smokey cool hue. Mix these colours with Igora Royal developer 3% (10Vol.)
CO OL BR OW N V I S I T U S AT S K P - E L I T E . C O M / C O L O U R - D E C O D E D
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• Prelightening is not always necessary to create the perfect ombre... By using Igora Royal High Power Browns, the ombre effect can be achieved on depths 1-5 by mixing with 12% developer
BR OW N OM BR E LESLEY’S HINTS AND TIPS: • When using ash colours, always remember to consider the natural eye colour and skin tone. These daring shades perfectly complement a cool or neutral skin type. • Remember ash or cool tones used on a global colour can appear slightly heavier. To avoid this try using a lighter depth on the same tonal group. • Cooler ashen tones are ideal for neutralising underlying warmth in the hair, even when going darker. -1 Cendre, -2 Ash and -3 Matt will do this job perfectly
BENEFITS OF HPB Igora Royal High Power Browns (HPB) are specially designed for clients with naturally dark hair who want rich brown colour variations. These are a collection of brown shades with a hint of colour, ranging from cool browns to rich warm shades. The High Definition PowerLift-Technology lifts dark natural hair bases (natural depths 1-5) in one easy step, without the need to pre-lighten. These shades can be used directly on the scalp as well as off the scalp. All the High Power Browns are intermixable, allowing for endless creativity.
Lesley & Stephen
xX x 14/04/2015 17:48
COLOUR
DECODE D EDINBURGH MANCHESTER BRISTOL LONDON SUN 10 TH MAY
MON 11 TH MAY
SUN 5 TH JULY
MON 6 TH JULY
R O A D S H OW
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S
Come and join us at an exclusive evening of inspiration and education Together. A passion for hair
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Find us on Facebook: www.facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom
15/04/2015 11:09
INSPIRATIONAL PRESENTATION: LIGHTS, MUSIC, DANCERS, LATEST CATWALK TRENDS AND SO MUCH MORE...
PART 1
Stephen and Lesley will 'De Code’ the colour concept, training attendees not to be afraid of colour, to experiment with colour and ultimately, increase customer loyalty, and salon revenue.
We’ll show you the latest in quick colouring techniques your clients will adore!
Lesley & StephenxX x
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .................................................................. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
PART 2
Mod ern style
collection
spring/ summer Trend 2
Trend 2 Trend 2
Trend 2 Trend 2
2015
Trend 3
Trend 3 Trend 3
Trend 3 Trend 3
Pearlescent girls Mod ern style
Street influences, Individual quirky style, Oversizing, Baggy sweaters, Sandals & socks.
collection
spring/ summer
2015
Come and talk to our Ambassadors after the show, they’re here to offer advice and help!
Expensive, Expensive, Weightless sheers, Weightless sheers, ive, ative and daring, Expens ive, daring, Weightless sheers, Provoc and Expens ative Festival girl inspired, Weightless sheers, Provoc Festival girl inspired, and daring, , daring, Weightless ative glamour FestivalBright girl inspired, and, Modern ive, Provoc floral & patterns, Festival girlsheers, inspired, Expens Provoc glamour Modernative Bright floral & patterns, Festival girl inspired, Bright1970’s floral & patterns, , s, fabrics, daring, influences, and Bright floral & patterns, glamour ative , texture Modern glamour Provoc Black s,, fabrics Modern 1970’s influences, Black texture Brightinfluences, floral & patterns, 1970’s influences, Dreamy & romantic. Modern 1970’s ,lity. s, fabrics, texture s,, fabrics glamour Dreamy & romantic. Black Sensua Black lity. Sensuatexture 1970’s Dreamy & romantic. Federleicht und transparent, Dreamy romantic. Edel, , Edel, Federleicht influences, und& transparent, s, fabrics lity. texture Sensua lity. Black Sensua Provokativ und gewagt, Inspiriert von Hippie-/Beach-/Festivalmode, Provokativ und gewagt, Inspiriert Hippie-/Beach-/Festivalmode, Dreamy &transparent, romantic. Federleicht und transparent, Federleichtvon und Edel, Edel, Modern Glamour, Glamour, Modern Farbenfrohe Blumen und Muster, lity. Sensua Farbenfrohe und Muster, und gewagt, Inspiriert von Hippie-/Beach-/Festivalmode, Provokativ gewagt, und Strukturen und Stoffe, Inspiriert vonBlumen Hippie-/Beach-/Festivalmode, Provokativ Schwarze Stoffe, und Strukturen Schwarze Einflüsse aus den 70er-Jahren, Federleicht und Einflüsse aus dentransparent, 70er-Jahren, Farbenfrohe Blumen und Muster, Farbenfrohe Blumen und Muster, Verträumt und romantisch. Inspiriert von Hippie-/Beach-/Festivalmode, Verträumt und romantisch. Einflüsse aus den 70er-Jahren, Einflüsse aus den 70er-Jahren, Farbenfrohe Blumen und Muster, Verträumt und romantisch. Verträumt und romantisch. Einflüsse aus den 70er-Jahren, Verträumt und romantisch.
Versus–by Anthony – Louis Vuitton – Versus by Anthony Vaccarello – Tom Ford – Balmain – Givenchy Versus by Anthony Vaccarello – Louis Vuitton – Versus by Anthony Vaccarello Tom Ford – Vaccarello Balmain – Givenchy
by Anthony Vaccarello Louis–Vuitton by Anthony Vaccarello – Tom Ford – Balmain – Givenchy Versus by Anthony Vaccarello – Louis Vuitton – VersusVersus by Anthony Vaccarello – Tom–Ford Balmain– Versus – Givenchy
Versus by Anthony Vaccarello – Louis Vuitton – Versus by Anthony Vaccarello – Tom Ford – Balmain – Givenchy
Etro – Etro – Gucci – Valentino
Etro – Etro – Gucci – Valentino Etro – Etro – Gucci – Valentino
90 90
90 90
90
Modern Glamour, Edel, Glamour, Modern Sinnlichkeit. Sinnlichkeit. Stoffe, Strukturen und Stoffe, und gewagt, und Schwarze Provokativ Schwarze Strukturen Glamour, Sinnlichkeit. Modern Sinnlichkeit. Stoffe, und Strukturen Schwarze Sinnlichkeit.
Etro – Etro – Gucci – Valentino
91 Charlie Taylor
Etro – Etro – Gucci – Valentino
91
150
91
150 150
91 Andy Smith 150 91 150
Suzie McGill151 151
Dylan Brittain 151 151
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For more information or to book your ticket contact 0800 526741 or visit WWW.SKP-ELITE.COM/COLOUR-DECODED
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CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 13:18
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
GET CONNECTED
Manage your salon from your pocket with the Wahanda App and Connect Pro
You already run your life from your phone, but what about your business? Wahanda has released an app for its salon software, Connect, which enables you to take full control of your salon and bookings on the move. Upgrade to Connect Pro, your premium marketing partner and salon software, and take full advantage of the benefits. Key benefits of Connect Pro include: • Use as your main appointment diary or alongside your current system • Fill off-peak and empty appointments • Attract more clients • Take bookings 24/7 • Premium placement in Wahanda’s search results • Reduce no-shows with free SMS reminders • Get reviewed by your best clients and boost your bookings • Access salon reporting • Send bespoke marketing campaigns • Additional integrated marketing support from Wahanda It costs £30 a month to upgrade to Connect Pro, plus a 20 per cent commission on the bookings Wahanda sends you. There is no commission on your own bookings added into the Connect calendar. Discover how easy it is to manage your salon from your pocket.
Take your business mobile and download the Wahanda Connect app for free, available in iOS and Android. Sign up at wahanda.com/business or email join@wahanda.com CREATIVE HEAD
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HOME LOVE HOW-TO TEST FIX WATCH WIN SHOP
EXCLUSIVE EXPERT VIDEOS
TRENDS
New for May WEDDING INSPIRATION
The Daily Blo... YOUR STYLING TIPS
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HOW-TOs
14/04/2015 17:01
Have we met? Trends, exclusive videos, how-to helpers, the latest problem fixers – Layered is the one-stop shop for consumers who love hair. Introduce yourself to them for FREE in the Layered Salon Directory. To enhance your listing FREE OF CHARGE, visit layeredonline.com/mysalon and upgrade your details. Share your work, your brands, your hours, your services at the click of a button. And did we mention it’s FREE?
layeredonline.com/mysalon
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14/04/2015 17:01
B RO
UG
HT
TO
G I B AIR H DO!100 SALONS YO U
BY L
AYE RE
ONE BIG NIGHT THURSDAY
DONLINE.COM
24 SEPTEMBER
Throw open your salon doors to the public for a unique “experience” evening filled with fun, education, product testing, hair DIYs and stylist expertise. It’s the biggest hair party ever to take place in salons – and we want you to be part of it! What clients will expect:
The benefits to you:
● Learning new hair tricks
● Increased client loyalty
● Blow-dry tutorials
● Consumers excited about your salon
● Trialling new products ● Trend masterclasses ● Professional advice
● Goodie bags with free products
● Retail sales on the night
● A chance to show off your skills ● Local press profile
● Exposure on a national level
A UNIQUE LIVE EVENT BROUGHT TO YOU BY
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L BY BROUGHT TO YOU
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BIG HAIR DO!
NL
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#BIGHAIRDO 100 SALONS. ONE BIG NIGHT THURSDAY 24 SEPTEMBER
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Get involved!
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You’ll be sent a Big Hair Do pack containing: 1 Big Hair Do guide – everything you need to know about how to organise and promote your Big Hair Do 2 Big Hair Do window stickers 10 Big Hair Do team badges 50 Big Hair Do goodie bags
Sign up now at creativeheadmag.com/store Only 100 salons can participate – first come, first served! LAYERED'S BIG HAIR DO IS SPONSORED BY
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15/04/2015 11:54
Life’s better bronde
What do you get when you mix brown with blonde? Bronde! Now you can provide your clients with the hottest trend out there, thanks to the new INOA and Dia Light mocha shades by L’Oréal Professionnel 58
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CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 13:22
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
DIDN’T YOU KNOW? Brunettes are so last season. Now it’s all about brondes – as seen on L’Oréal Professionnel’s ambassador, Eva Green. But what does it mean? Simply put, brown + blonde = bronde. It’s the ideal combination of brown and blonde tones that’s perfect for darker-haired women who want to get in on the blonde trend (well it is the year of the blonde after all). And this is great news for your salon and colour business as the bronde technique can only be truly created by a colourist in-salon. There are three steps to achieving a perfect-looking bronde: first you create a gradient between roots and lengths with the new INOA mocha shades by L’Oréal Professionnel. Then, carefully highlight thin lines of hair strands using new Blond Studio by L’Oréal Professionnel. Finally, tone the highlighted hair to add extra shine and sophistication with the new Dia Light Mochas by L’Oréal Profesisonnel.
All you need to know about bronde What is bronde? Traditionally, brown and blonde have been separated. On one side are women who favour rich, natural brunette tones in their hair and on the other, blonde women who prefer a lighter, brighter colour result. But the bronde hair colour trend means clients are no longer forced to choose between the two. Who is bronde right for? Bronde is ideally suited to warmer skin tones to enhance natural colouring and it can be good for older clients, too. With bronde, blondes can enjoy an elegant colour result with added depth and dimension, while brunettes have their look lifted and illuminated. How can I sell bronde to my clients? Bronde is perfect for the client who has never had colour before or is afraid of a drastic change. It gives a subtle, bright, natural result so it will enhance (rather than completely change) your client’s look. It’s also low maintenance, so an easy transition for your clients. How can the bronde technique help your salon’s colour business? Bronde is best done in the salon to achieve the perfect balance between brunette and blonde – it can’t be easily recreated at home. What are the colours behind bronde? The mocha range in L’Oréal Professionnel’s INOA gives rich, shiny-looking colour full of different tones and shades. The mocha molecule creates brunettes that are never too red or warm. Depending on the natural shade of the hair, INOA mochas will bring a different result and give a look that works and is unique for each client. How can it help the retail side of your salon’s business? Bronde hair needs professional care to help protect against fading. The new L’Oréal Professionnel range for coloured hair, Série Expert Vitamino Color A-Ox, helps maintain and protect the look of colour radiance.
For more information about the new mocha shades, visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk/haircolour. To stock INOA or Blond Studio, contact a L’Oréal Professionnel account manager or call 0845 600 0122
CREATIVE HEAD
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Scene
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
BLUE IS THE
colour
SALON GROUP Blue Tit celebrated its extension across south east London with an oh-so chic party to mark the launch of Blue Tit Brockley. The venue was packed, with family and friends, Blue Tit’s loyal clientele, staff, local businesses and press all in attendance. Guests drank chilli and raspberry daiquiris crafted by Blue Tit’s number one bartender, Richard Grewe, and local beer provided by Brockley Brewery – all while snacking on Propercorn. They then danced the night away with music provided by Dimensions Festival DJs – as Blue Tit is set to return to the festival in September once again.
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Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock with Nick Wood, president of Goldwell and KMS California
Bora Aksu and Sam Burnett
PARTNERS IN
A MONTH AFTER showing his critically acclaimed A/W15 show at London Fashion Week, designer Bora Aksu was reunited with lead hairstylist Sam Burnett at The Coterie, to discuss the creative and commercial challenges within their partnership. In a conversation expertly steered by the beauty director of InStyle, Cassie Steer, Bora revealed how his collections are inspired by intensely personal childhood memories and stories, which evolve into specific textures, colours and fabrics as ideas are gradually shared with the team. “I am not a designer that shuts out the hair stylist,” said Bora. “The hair completes the look that I am imagining, so Sam needs to understand my inspirations and feel the mood we are creating. This is his platform, and he has that touch I am looking for.” For Bora’s A/W15 show, inspired by Oscar Wilde’s The Nightingale and The Rose, Sam had been given model Margaux Hemingway in 1975 as a reference but ended up changing the look after the initial hair test. “There was something about the original technique that bothered me. Bora instantly got where I was coming from. When I’m working with him the nerves are there, but Bora doesn’t make me nervous,” he said. “I just want to do him justice.” Suitably inspired, Coterie members left with a goody bag containing Sam’s favourite KMS California hair products, and a silk scarf exclusively designed by Bora Aksu for KMS California, featuring his original illustrations for his A/W15 collection.
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Cassie Steer
fashion
CREATIVE HEAD
15/04/2015 15:43
0208 965 2500 www.hairaisersshop.com facebook.com/hairaisers.london @hairaisers
CELEBRITY REMY HA IR
C ELE B R I TY R E M Y H A I R
Our A-List hair is 100% Remy, double drawn human hair extensions and are of the highest quality, boasting the most luxurious silky and shiny hair. • Luxurious 100% Remy human hair • 120 grams of hair • Ultra thick, double drawn premium grade • Available as both weft and pre-tipped hair extensions • Available in several lengths & natural shades
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R Y T I R B 15/01/2015 17:18
Karen Harkin Sally and Jamie Brooks
Lilah Parsons
Andrew Mulvenna
ON THE
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Blondes Salon
EIGHT EVENTS, seven cities across two weeks in April – there’s no stopping the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Regional Tour once it hits the road! The fashion-fuelled event saw 450 salons from all over the UK compete to win one of 48 available places at the Grand Final on 1 June, the trophy’s big 60th birthday celebration. Hosted by MTV presenter and model Lilah Parsons, we caught up with the tour in Belfast where Sally and Jamie Brooks orchestrated a stunning show, while the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists demonstrated how to take those looks back to the salon. Then it was onto the competition, presided over by a judging panel that included some of the top names in British hairdressing – Guy Kremer, Rush’s Chris Williams, the Colour Room’s Sean Tetlow, seanhanna’s Yesmin O’Brien and Cutting Room Creative’s Charles Dodd. In Northern Ireland, the regional winners included Andrew Mulvenna, Atchison Hair, Barbers of BT45, Karen Harkin, Peter Mark and Blondes Salon. Will any of those names scoop the big one this summer? We can’t wait to find out!
The judges
road
CREATIVE HEAD
14/04/2015 16:04
Quote Creative Head to receive ÂŁ25 off your membership before 31st May 2015 *terms and conditions apply
To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info
And the winners are… ASSISTANT OF THE YEAR AWARD Summer Streather STYLIST AWARD Carrie Green SENIOR STYLIST AWARD Beckie Hohn DESIGNER AWARD Pixie Puszka SENIOR DESIGNER AWARD Ruby Lee LEADING DESIGNER AWARD Lizzie King STYLE DIRECTOR AWARD Helen Bale RECEPTIONIST AWARD Lisa Irving IT’S A JOURNEY AWARD Farrah King OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT AWARD Evie Kearney
MANHATTAN
love story
LEICESTER’S GEORGE’S HAIRDRESSING has had quite the 12 months. After fast-paced fashion weeks, reaching the finals of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy and accepting appointments to the L’Oréal Professionel ID Artists team, salon director Bianka Katon decided that her staff deserved a treat. To recognise their achievements, Katon threw her own awards ceremony at the city’s Manhattan 34 bar, complete with red carpet, champagne and specially designed ‘Feather Awards’ for selected stylists. Thanks to sponsorship from Kérastase, Shu Uemura Art of Hair and L’Oréal Professionnel, a number of staff also went home with cash and TVs as rewards for their hard work throughout 2014. Well done all!
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14/04/2015 16:04
BECAUSE YOU DESERVE EVEN MORE... GET A FREE SUBSCRIPTION TO THE CREATIVE HEAD IPAD EDITION. SIGN UP NOW FOR ALL YOUR FAVOURITE CONTENT, AS WELL AS VIDEOS AND LOTS OF EXCLUSIVE EXTRAS!
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BIG IDEA
ANDREW BARTON
at Urban Retreat WITH 50 STAFF and an astonishing annual turnover of more than £3m, the Urban Retreat hair salon at Harrods is successful, but has never quite matched the prestige of its beauty sister. But that’s about to change with the appointment of celebrity favourite Andrew Barton as creative director, who has plans to make lots of noise about the brand both within the hair industry and with consumers. “The objective is clear,” explains Andrew. “We will lift our profile as a creative force through education, seminars, competitions and events. We’ll also be shooting a signature collection, BEautiful, that’s very client focused, talking through the ages of Urban Retreat.” It’s a strategic move by owner Goerge Kammer and ties together hair and cosmetics. “Andrew will take Urban Retreat education a step further for our already talented team and add a new dimension to our salon by linking hair services to our new make-up department,” explains George. “This will define a new multi-dimensional image for Urban Retreat which will be elegant, sophisticated and on-trend.” The sad closure of the Andrew Barton salon in February means joining Andrew at Urban Retreat is technical director AJ Blackadder and artistic director Tracey Gallagher as a “ready-made dream team”. Initially, Andrew will be setting up a creative team, an assistant creative team and hitting the salon floor straight away. “The team needs to know I’m not just turning up once a month,” he stresses, “and I’ll be putting into place development plans for every single team member.” And with former manager Marcus Allen rejoining the salon this summer, we wouldn’t bet against the brand finally realising its potential and becoming a formidable force in the hair industry – and beyond.
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ANDREW BARTON
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14/04/2015 13:24
15 YEARS
THE ULTIMATE ACCOLADE
R E T N E O T E C N A H C T S YOUR LA
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14/04/2015 13:46
15 YEARS CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AWARDS ARE BACK AND OPEN FOR ENTRIES. EARNED YOUR STRIPES? GET YOUR TROPHY TEAM AWARDS
INDIVIDUAL AWARDS
BEST SALON TEAM For teamwork at its best Category sponsor
CREATIVE TALENT
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and ability
HAIR TREND
For the best on-trend image of the year Category sponsor
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BEST LOCAL SALON For a salon that best serves its local community
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business
BUSINESS THINKER
SESSION STYLIST
Category sponsor
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BY NOMINATION ONLY
For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion Category sponsor
BEST SALON EXPERIENCE
COLOUR EXPERT
For a salon that delivers top customer service Category sponsor
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and ability Category sponsor
HAIR ICON
For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2015
BY NOMINATION ONLY Category sponsor
BEST NEW SALON
For a new or revamped salon that turns heads Category sponsor
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proved successful, either for the salon business or for the industry at large
PRESENTED BY
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MOST WANTED 2015 IS OPEN TO UK-BASED HAIRDRESSERS AND SALONS COMPETITION CLOSES Monday 18 May 2015 ENTRY FORMS creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted TALK TO US 01434 610940 @creativeheadmag #MWIT15
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14/04/2015 13:47
WORK IT. LOVE IT. DON’T FORGET TO ENTER IT! GET ON THE IT LIST – CREATIVE HEAD’S COOLEST AND MOST CREDIBLE COMPETITION FOR GIFTED YOUNG STYLISTS Presented by
Sponsored by
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D E S A B K U L OPEN TO AL RS E S S E R D R I A H R E D N U R O 0 AGED 3 14/04/2015 13:49
SIX TITLES.
YOUR LAST CHANCE TO WIN ONE THE RISING STAR FOR A YOUNG SALON ASSISTANT WHO’S ENTHUSIASTIC, HARD WORKING AND FAST IMPROVING – A NEW TEAM STAR! TO BE NOMINATED BY THE SALON OWNER OR MANAGER
THE FASHIONISTA FOR A YOUNG HAIRDRESSER WHO’S MAKING A NAME FOR THEMSELVES IN SESSION CIRCLES
THE ENTREPRENEUR FOR A YOUNG SALON OWNER WHO HAS CREATED AN EXCITING AND SUCCESSFUL NEW BUSINESS
THE VISIONARY FOR A STYLIST OR TECHNICIAN WHO IS PUSHING CREATIVE BOUNDARIES
THE IT GIRL & THE IT GUY TWO TROPHIES – ONE FOR A FEMALE WINNER, ONE FOR A MALE WINNER – EACH AWARDED TO SOMEONE EXCELLING IN ALL AREAS OF HAIRDRESSING AND DESTINED FOR GREATNESS
COMPETITION CLOSES Friday 22 May 2015 ENTRY FORMS creativeheadmag.com/theitlist ENQUIRIES 01434 610940 @creativeheadmag #MWIT15
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PRESENTED BY
SPONSORED BY
Creative HEAD presents an evening with…
CLAIRE ROTHSTEIN: INTERNATIONAL FASHION AND CELEBRITY STYLIST AND LEAD HAIRDRESSER AT THE 2015 BRIT AWARDS AND JONATHAN DE FRANCESCO: ON THE BACKSTAGE TEAMS AT THE BIGGEST RUNWAY SHOWS. HOSTED BY STYLIST MAGAZINEʼS JOANNA MCGARRY
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14/04/2015 13:28
LIVE!
WATCH THEM CREATE: ● THE LATEST LOOKS, HOT OFF THE RUNWAY
● EDITORIAL TRANSLATIONS AND WEARABLE INTERPRETATIONS YOUR CLIENTS WILL LOVE ● STYLING TECHNIQUES YOU WONʼT SEE ANYWHERE ELSE
PLUS! LIVE ON-SET INTERVIEWS AND POST-SESSION NETWORKING
THE COTERIE: IN SESSION Tuesday 26 May 2015 7pm until 10pm Hoxton Street Studios, Blossom Street, London E1 6PL
TICKETS £40
INCLUDES FOOD, DRINKS AND A BABYLISS PRO GOODY BAG COTERIE MEMBERS GO FREE BUT MUST RSVP
CALL TO BOOK 01434 610933
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BOOK ONLINE creativeheadmag.com/thecoterie
15/04/2015 15:27
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14/04/2015 13:38
HOTEL By Gary Hooker and Michael Young
Announcing a new partnership with Schwarzkopf Professional and a fresh chapter for their Hooker & Young brand, Gary Hooker and Michael Young unveil their most enigmatic collection to date. Inspired by new influences and marking a step change in creative direction, the international ambassadors are thrilled to embark on an exciting era of global travel, new opportunities and a soonto-be-released collaboration with Schwarzkopf Professional’s inimitable Essential Looks. Prepare to be amazed. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES
CREATIVE HEAD
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Open the doors to perception, to a different dimension and mystery. A feast for the eyes, lavished with exquisite trinkets and statues, and those dolls, with eyes gazing at you. What they must have heard and kept for themselves and all those secrets these walls could tell‌
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Gary Hooker and Michael Young, for Schwarzkopf Professional
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HAIR Gary Hooker and Michael Young at Hooker & Young for Schwarzkopf Professional. MAKE-UP Maddie Austin. STYLING Clare Frith
“For us, this shoot was about being completely free, with no agenda, just the two of us, on location, doing what we love. It’s a great representation of who we are now, and the kind of conceptual shoots we love – strong, high-fashion editorial looks, with great hair. We wanted to create something that would inspire others in the way that we like to be inspired.”
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CELEBRATING THE START OF A BRAND NEW COLLABORATION, GARY HOOKER & MICHAEL YOUNG TALK PASSION, PARTNERSHIPS AND THE EXCITING THINGS TO COME WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL... WHY WAS IT TIME FOR YOU TO CHANGE YOUR PRODUCT PARTNER? The Hooker & Young brand is constantly evolving, and therefore we always need new challenges and creative opportunities for the whole team. We felt it was time to move into a new chapter with our business.
WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO CHANGE TO SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL? Schwarzkopf Professional offers everything we are looking for in a brand. From a creative viewpoint, it’s fashion- and trend-focused; the product portfolio draws on an important heritage but is also full of innovation; and we could see amazing opportunities for our team to grow and develop through education and other initiatives, like shows and shoots.
WHAT DOES THE CHANGE MEAN FOR YOUR TEAM? WHICH NEW OPPORTUNITIES ARE EXCITING THEM THE MOST? At Hooker & Young we all share an enormous passion for colour – it’s an exciting and lucrative part of our business. Schwarzkopf Professional have an incredible colour portfolio that provides lots of creative opportunities for both our established art team members and our young art team.
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HOW WILL YOUR CLIENTS BENEFIT FROM THE CHANGE TO SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL? Firstly, they’re going to see a lot of new colour services in our salons that they couldn’t previously access, and of course the colour results are going to be amazing. We really think clients are going to notice the difference. Secondly, the back-up homecare is second to none – our clients are going to have access to an amazing choice of products, all boasting state-of-the-art formulations. The team is proud and excited to retail these lines in the salon.
YOU’RE WORKING WITH A NEW BRAND AND A NEW TEAM OF PEOPLE. IS THAT EXCITING? We have always loved collaborating with other artists on creative projects, but Schwarzkopf Professional is taking thing to a whole new level. There are already lots of things in the pipeline, including opportunities to help shape and develop the brand at a global level – things that will give us a profile like we’ve never experienced before. We feel like we are operating at the very heart of Schwarzkopf Professional; we are respected, we are listened to, and we are very much part of the action. It’s very exciting indeed.
YOU’RE WORKING WITH TYLER JOHNSTON AND LESLEY JENNISON ON ESSENTIAL LOOKS. WHAT WILL HOOKER & YOUNG BRING TO THE NEW SEASON COLLECTION? Hooker & Young style is all about creating hair with a feeling of luxury – it’s hair that looks expensive and is highly desirable. The Essential Looks collections always have such a strong directional feel, but we feel we can bring a new element of commercial freshness that will make them even more relevant and contemporary.
SUM UP WHAT THE SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BRAND MEANS TO YOUR BUSINESS… A brand that is synonymous with style, that has strong educational values and which forges great partnerships. It just feels right to be working together.
…AND TO YOU PERSONALLY. Opportunity. Excitement. The future.
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SUMMER GLOW THIS SUMMER IT’S ALL ABOUT MORE NATURAL BLONDE SHADES – SO OFFER CLIENTS SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL BLONDME WARM GOLD AND COOL ROSÉ SHADES
IF YOU DIDN’T KNOW already, blonde is back. But it’s not all-over platinum hues clients are craving. Instead, they want a more natural glow. Brunettes are lightening up their locks with caramel hues, while lighter blondes are going more golden. The new highlighting shades from Schwarzkopf Professional – BLONDME warm gold and BLONDME cool rosé – are perfect for the new trend in blondes as they provide up to five levels of lift and can be used on dark hair in a single-step application. And because Schwarzkopf Professional knows how important it is to provide blonde clients with not only the right shades but the right service, it has launched Shimmer Lights and Pastel Lights. Both services subtly blend different blonde tones, which melt into one another and create a refined golden glow. Shimmer Lights catches the light on darker base colours to create a dazzling effect, while Pastel Lights defines lighter blondes in soft gradients to give hair a new lease of life.
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MEET THE EXPERT
He loves blondes and blondes love him! LA-based Kim Vo is not only Schwarzkopf Professional global BLONDME ambassador, he is a celebrity colourist and an expert in creating state-of-the-art blondes. Here, he talks about why we all remain fascinated with blondes.
CREATIVE HEAD: Blonde is always fashionable – why hasn’t the trend lost any traction over the years?
KIM VO: Even though blondes have always been around, the colour became really popular through Marilyn Monroe. It really did convey a whole new different world. Sixty years later, we have perfected blonde and the trend has evolved. It is a great trend to have fun with. CH: In which direction is the new blonde trend? KV: What’s great is it’s not about being warm or cool anymore, it’s about being both! We see a lot of strong trends, varying between luxury and high street. There are many colours and palettes that we can choose from. That is why BLONDME is so successful – its toners are great. CH: Which clients should colourists and salons target for these shades? KV: Brunettes are the new blonde aficionados; these are women who want to dip their toe while showcasing beautiful caramel-coloured shades!
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CH: Why is blonde often seen as the supreme discipline for colourists? KV: I am an equal opportunity colourist – I also love brunettes and redheads – but blondes are incredibly hard! That’s why people have respect for it. I call it the blonde colour code. You have to break your clients’ colour code. You look at skin tone, eye colour, their personality. I always ask clients ‘Do you want to whisper, talk or shout?’ Blonde is not just a colour; it’s an attitude. CH: What challenges do hairdressers have to face when it comes to blonde services for mature hair? KV: In Los Angeles we don’t use the word ‘mature’. What is amazing, with BLONDME in particular, is that you can easily take 10 years off someone’s look. When colouring mature clients, you usually want to mimic youthful hair. It is all about the placement of the highlights and luscious, gorgeous shine.
Call 01442 278000, visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom
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FREEZE FRAME KEEPING THAT SALON-QUALITY COLOUR IS EVERY CLIENT’S DREAM, SO FREEZE IT IN TIME WITH BC COLOR FREEZE BY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
*After 12 washes according to 77 of 100 people tested on a red shade
THAT MOMENT WHEN a client looks in the mirror and realises their hair colour just isn’t as shiny or as vibrant as it used to be is inevitable – no matter how talented the colourist is, nothing lasts forever, right? Wrong. BC Color Freeze not only gives a rich colour, glossy shine and healthy glow, it provides zero fade* until the next colour appointment. This is because BC Color Freeze has been redeveloped to include pH 4.5 Technology. For optimal health, hair should have a pH level of 4.5, which coloured hair doesn’t have. During colouring, the outer and inner hair structure are loosened so that colour pigments can penetrate the hair, but are not held properly. The pH 4.5 Technology in BC Color Freeze reinforces the internal hair structure by bringing the hair to the optimal pH – meaning it essentially ‘freezes’ colour pigments in the hair. If used in combination with an IGORA Royal hair colourant, your client’s colour will continue to dazzle like new for 12 washes. Freeze Clients can further protect their hair with The BC Color ust as it m a is the BC Color Freeze take-home range, CC Cream ect from heat including three shampoos, two conditioners, helps to prot and styles and restores a treatment, a gloss serum and the range’s ed colour hair. new hero, CC Cream. So for cool colour that refuses to thaw, it’s got to be BC Color Freeze by Schwarzkopf Professional.
GOT TO HAVE IT!
Discover how you can make you client’s colour go on and on with BC Color Freeze. Call 01442 278000, visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or visit facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom
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BE THE NEXT
Wella Professionals Generation NOW is celebrating its fifth anniversary, and it wants you to become its newest member!
TO GET AHEAD and get noticed in hairdressing, you need a little helping hand. You need someone in your corner to champion you every step of the way – Wella Professionals can do this and more. Generation NOW is one of the brand’s incredible mentoring programmes and is designed to help launch up-andcoming hairdressing stars with offers of support, exposure and plenty of platform opportunities. Award-winning stylist Bruno Marc Giamattei from Marc Antoni is the lead mentor for the Generation NOW Team 2015/16, so you know you’re going to be in good hands – you’ll also enjoy a tailormade Generation NOW Bootcamp Week in August, worth £4,000.
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On top of this, you’ll experience a wide range of educational opportunities for you to build up your hairdressing knowledge and skills, enhance your confidence and onstage presentation work. You’ll also have the opportunity to be part of some aweinspiring events. All of this adds up to some great exposure for you and your salon – it’s media coverage that just can’t be bought. To make it to the top you’ll need armfuls of energy, creativity and enthusiasm. Generation NOW is a great launch pad; many ambitious team members have gone on to achieve incredible things and become key players in the competitive world of hair.
HERE ARE THE CREDENTIALS JUST TWO FORMER MEMBERS HAVE RACKED UP: DANIEL SPILLER, MARC ANTONI (2010/11 Generation NOW Member) • The It List Visionary Award winner • Wella Professionals TrendVision Award Young Talent Gold winner • Artistic Team of the Year member • Wella Professionals Colour Club member TOM WRIGHT, SOUL HAIR (2011/12 Generation NOW Member) • Wella Professionals TrendVision Award 2012 UK Young Talent Bronze winner • Wella Professionals Making Waves 2013 mentor • Wella guest artist and EIMI Style Team member
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
GENERATION “There have been so many positive things that have come from being on the Generation NOW Team. I have built strong relationships with hairdressers and Wella, which has helped me to catapult my career!” W AMELIA EVANS, RUSSELL EATON, 2013/14 GENERATION NOW MEMBER
HO TO ENTEtRof what
tle bi This is just a lit r of Generation be em being a m r you and your NOW can do fo e entering for th career. So get t si now! Vi 2015/16 Team g.co.uk/ tin ke ar ym wellam to ow generationn e! lin on enter
For more about Generation NOW, call the Wella Events Hotline on 0845 601 8128 or email wellaevents.im@pg.com CREATIVE HEAD
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PROFILE
GEEK Photography: Jon Baker
OUT!
MEET ASHLEIGH HODGES, SELF-PROCLAIMED ‘HAIR GEEK’ AND IT LIST IT GIRL 2014 WINNER
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#ItGirl
MUM
DAD
BROTHER
“I was born to be a hairdresser. When I was young I’d sit on the back of the sofa backcombing, plaiting and putting hair accessories on any willing victim, it was my first passion. I come from a long line of hairdressers – my great-nan, great-aunt and my mum all worked in the industry. My mum is one of my best friends and we work sideby-side every day. I truly value her opinions and she taught me everything I know, from how to deal with people to my love of fashion.”
“I’m lucky that my partner Matt is also a hairdresser, so he completely understands that I normally work six or even seven days a week. We can bat ideas around and he’s always honest with me, which is what I need.”
“Flame Hair Studios is my second home – I was there before the paint was even dry. I started working at the salon on Saturdays when I was 11 and now I’m creative director. Part of my responsibility is to set out the training plans for our junior of staff. I like them to try out different aspects re they’ hing somet not it’s if the industry, even specifically thinking of going into, it opens their eyes to possibilities.”
“We British are very patriotic, so to be able to travel the world and showcase our talent is a dream come true. Travel broadens the mind. I love international audiences and you always leave having learnt something new.”
“But while Brits are recogn ised as the best hairdressers in the world, it a nnoys me that we don’t get the sa me respect in our own cou ntry. I did well at schoo l a nd I wa nted to be a hairdresser. My teach ers a nd peers could n’t u ndersta nd it, think ing I was going to ‘waste ’ my education a nd go into a profession they thoug ht was for dropo uts, which really got my back up. My goal is to really showcase what great talent this industry has.”
“Girl Power ruled when I was growing up. We work in a femaledominated industry, but all the people at the top are men – I really want to change this.”
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Photography: Jon Baker
“Errol Douglas MBE is my mentor and a good friend. I saw a show of his when I was 14 and just knew I had to work with him. I plucked up enough courage to phone his salon and ask about assisting him – I had to ring a few times to be remembered, but I’m very persistent. He took me under his wing and I’m proud to be his right-hand woman.”
ghd at House of Holland
“I’m never without my camera, taking shots of the texture of a distressed wall or the soft colours of a flower. I love art, nature and architecture. There’s a big, wide world out there to explore and be inspired by – sometimes we just need to remember to look around us.”
“Perseverance pays off. I entered Matrix Destination.Fame for five years, so when I was announced as a finalist I knew I just had to win it! Then, last year I was awarded Artistic Recognition at the Matrix National Conference in Iceland (pictured above). I wasn’t expecting an award, but it was a lovely feeling standing on stage with other winners.”
“Session styling isn’t the direction I want to go in, but I do love fashion – so I like to dip my toe into that side of the profession every so often. I enjoy the buzz of fashion week and always leave having learnt something new. It’s fantastic to see the latest trends as they hit the catwalk, through assisting backstage at shows such as PPQ, David Koma and House of Holland.”
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FEBRUARY 2013
£4.50
head c r e a t i v e
C R E AT I V E H E A D February 2013 creativeheadmag.com
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“Since winning the It List, I haven’t stopped. I worked at London Fashion Week for Kenna and Adam Reed for ghd, at the Matrix World Tour in Spain, and then a huge social event in Venice before jumping off the plane back in London for the Alternative Hair Show at the Royal Albert Hall. Just a week later I was in New York working on the next Matrix Global Trend Shoot. I have lots of exciting things planned for my Matrix House of Talent team, and will be working on several editorial shoots. And, of course, there’s still lots for me to do in the family salon!”
#ItGirl
Photography: Lel Burnett
“My first front cover! This editorial shoot will always be one of my favourites for that reason alone. I was shoot ing as a Matrix Destination.Fame winner in Creative HEAD. We were all given two buzzwords to use as our inspiration – ours were ‘famous’ and ‘iconic’. We wanted the ‘Famous’ models to look as though they were stumbling out of a club and hiding from the paparazzi. For the ‘Iconic’ look, I took inspiration from Betty Page and cut in a short, rolled fringe then created finger waves . I’m really proud of the collection and it was such an amazi ng feeling seeing my work on the front cover of Creative HEAD.”
“The fabulously weird Tim Burton has always been a huge inspiration of mine; I grew up with his films and fell in love with his quirky, dark style. He inspired my ‘Wonderland’ collection (above). I wanted to push all elements of hair – colour, dressing and precision cuts – to create a look that was weird but elegant. The coverage was fantastic, including pages in Creative HEAD, and Twitter went mad for it – I even got messages about how inspiring it was!”
“I wa nt to inspire others a nd show that you really don’t have to be from a big city to achie ve recogn ition. I’m proud that I’m from a small salon in the quaint mark et town of Towce ster in North a nts. With enoug h passio n a nythin g is possible!” 103
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#ItGirl
ONCE BITTEN COMMISSIONED FOR DEVOUR MAGAZINE IN LOS ANGELES, THIS FUSION OF QUIRK AND COUTURE BY 2014 IT LIST IT GIRL ASHLEIGH HODGES IS INSPIRED BY PHOTOGRAPHER TIM WALKER PHOTOGRAPHY BY BARRY JEFFERY
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HAIR Ashleigh Hodges. STYLING Kate Jeffery. MAKE UP Gemma Kimmings. ASSISTANT Jade Hewitt
This is 40
SINCE 1975, JOICO HAS BEEN PIONEERING THE ART OF HEALTHY HAIR. FORTY YEARS LATER, JOICO IS SUPPORTING AND INSPIRING STYLISTS IN MORE THAN 65 COUNTRIES. WE SHARE SOME OF THE KEY MOMENTS...
1975
Frustrated by under-performing products, Los Angeles hairdresser Steve Stefano decided to make his own products that would continually push the limits of science and technology and world-renowned haircare brand JOICO was born with the launch of the award winning JOICO K-Pak DeepPenetrating Reconstructor.
1990
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A breakthrough year for JOICO, which has become known for its unprecedented technology when it comes to advanced haircare. During this year JOICO transforms haircare with the launch of the Triamine Complex formula – offering total reconstruction by mimicking the exact percentages of all 19 amino acids found within the hair’s natural structure.
JOICO celebrates the launch of its first oxidative colour line, JOICO VeroColor
1992 1993 JOICO’s dedicated scientists discover that ‘if you can control the cuticle, you can control the integrity of the hair’. The findings resulted in the creation of the further advanced Cationic Triamine Complex.
1984
JOICO established itself as an international brand with the opening of a distribution centre in the Netherlands to support and supply its market, stretching from Europe, to Africa and the Middle East.
2002 JOICO joins the Shiseido family.
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JOICO introduces the next generation of its Triamine Complex; the Quadramine Complex, the most technologically advanced complex that JOICO has created to date.
2009
2007
JOICO transforms its Vero Color System into the revolutionary Vero K-Pak Color System with the addition of the newest K-Pak technology creating an advanced colour system.
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
2006
2008
The JOICO DESIGN COLLECTION is launched, featuring Total Defense Complex, which dramatically influences the movement and condition of the hair.
JOICO launches Vero K-Pak Color AGE DEFY, a revolutionary hair colour product that reverses the signs of ageing hair with its unique 3-defense technology.
2015
JOICO celebrates 40 years at the forefront of healthy hair with the launch of the revolutionary new Curl range, which hopes to transform the way we view all types of curly hair.
Along with the 40th anniversary of the brand, the iconic colour range JOICO Vero K-Pak Color System celebrates 25 years successfully transforming colour. To join in JOICO’s 40th celebrations and become a JOICO stockist, call 0845 071 2326 or visit joicoeurope.com. To get all the latest JOICO news, follow @JOICOUK on Twitter #40yearsofJOICO CREATIVE HEAD
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ALL IS CALM ADAM REED SAYS RELAX WITH RELUX, THE PERCY & REED CREATIVE COUNCIL’S OH-SO EDITORIAL TAKE ON THIS SEASON’S RELAXED LUXURY TREND PHOTOGRAPHY BY CAMERON MCNEE
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SEE MORE and watch the action from the shoot. Visit creativeheadmag.com
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HAIR Percy & Reed Creative Council. MAKE-UP Kristina Vidic. STYLING Holly Rebecca
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HAIR Christian Backman, Anna Källsen Samuelsson, Marlene Nilsson and Peter Hägelstam from the Björn Axén Artistic Team. MAKE-UP Jenny Karlsson. STYLING Gorjan Lauseger
LAST WORD
REALITY DOESN’T BITE
LAUREN POPE, FOUNDER OF EXTENSIONS BRAND HAIR REHAB LONDON AND STAR OF THE ONLY WAY IS ESSEX, EXPLAINS THE POTENTIAL POWER OF REALITY TV ON YOUR SALON BUSINESS I’VE BEEN PART of the reality TV world for the past five years and in that time I’ve seen a rapid rise in interest from the general public in what we do and how we look. As each episode of TOWIE airs, my Twitter feed is full of viewers eagerly asking where my top is from, how I curled my hair, what colour my lip gloss is; and they then discuss the results with one another. I watch reality TV myself, so I can understand this excitement and eagerness to know everything about the stars – people can relate to us, and by watching our every move they feel a bond with us as if we’re one of their friends. As a reality TV personality, it’s vital to be an avid social media user, so that we are all easily accessible by the viewers – they can now follow my Instagram and see for themselves what my latest hairstyle or outfit is, and where to get it from. I do the same myself with the likes of Kim Kardashian and Kendall Jenner, whom I have watched and loved in the past few years. I created Hair Rehab London to provide quality and affordable clip-in hair extensions and hairpieces long before TOWIE became part of my life. In the past few years my
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company has grown into a credible brand I’m hugely proud of today, and continued positive feedback from editorials and session stylists made the move into the professional world and launching my Salon Professional collection, a no-brainer. Customers regularly tweet me photos of themselves wearing something from Hair Rehab London, and the excitement from them is contagious – it’s a great feeling to know someone has followed my story and has now become a part of it. This brand is my pride and joy, and so it’s a must that anything I offer is of the highest quality possible. I know some people look down at reality TV, but millions of people watch it and take in what they see, and that means the potential for your business to supply services is palpable. The fact hairdressers have more requests to recreate clients’ favourite reality star looks rather than the ‘supermodel-of-themoment’ shows the power we now have in the beauty world. Lauren Pope is the founder of Hair Rehab London (hairrehablondon.com) and star of The Only Way is Essex
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