£4.50 MAY 2017
In print•online•everywhere!
MAY 2017 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
Every day
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PERFECT, POWERFUL, PROFESSIONAL EVERY CLIENT DESERVES INCREDIBLE SALON HAIR EVERY DAY. SERIE EXPERT BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL HAS HELPED HAIRDRESSERS MAKE THIS A REALITY FOR ALMOST TWO DECADES. NOW, THE BRAND IS BRINGING YOU THE NEXT GENERATION OF INNOVATIVE BESPOKE TREATMENTS AND A FRESH NEW LOOK
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INNOVATIVE, INDIVIDUAL, INSTANTANEOUS AS MORE CLIENTS EXPECT BESPOKE TREATMENTS, SALONS HAVE TO MEET THEIR NEEDS OR RISK LOSING THEM. POWERMIX BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL SERIE EXPERT IS THE ANSWER
DID YOU KNOW?
WHAT IS POWERMIX?
Your treatment offering that is freshly and uniquely mixed for an instant custom-made hair transformation. So whether your client’s hair is in need of nourishment, smoothing, shine or repair, there is a Powermix for them.
PERSONALISATION IS ONE OF 2017'S TOP 10 GLOBAL CONSUMER TRENDS ACCORDING TO EUROMONITOR
WHAT IS THE TECHNOLOGY?
The power is in the mix. Micellar technology activates when the base, which is rich in conditioning agents and the additive that delivers active ingredients, are mixed together.
WHAT ARE THE RESULTS?
Noticeably more beautiful hair that feels softer and lighter. Clients get a personalised treatment, tailored to their needs.
DID YOU KNOW?
AMONG HIGH INCOME CONSUMERS, TWO-THIRDS FEEL THEY ‘SHOULD HAVE THE POSSIBILITY OF CUSTOMISING AND PERSONALISING A PRODUCT ESPECIALLY FOR ME’*
BASE
REPAIR
INSTANT RESURFACING
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NUTRI
INSTANT NOURISHMENT
FORCE
INSTANT STRENGTH
COLOR
LISS
INSTANT SHINE
INSTANT SMOOTHNESS
*Ipsos World Luxury Tracking: Luxury in 2016
INSTANT TRANSFORMATION SYSTEM FRESHLY MIXED FOR A CUSTOM-MADE TREATMENT
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ADVANCED, ATTRACTIVE, ACCESSIBLE
CREATED 17 YEARS AGO, SERIE EXPERT BY L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL – THE ORIGINAL AND BEST – IS GOING ONE STEP FURTHER
WHAT’S NEW?
More products, more value – SERIE EXPERT has increased in size and has a fresh new look with gorgeous, metalliccoloured products that are sure to catch your client’s eye, even from across the other side of the salon.
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ea uty o f b e h t e s a c Sh o w de o r lig ht blo n e it h w , y re g is co lou r h a ir wit h t h poo. It s am cla rify in g s h , e n rich ed s y st e m n e ut ra li s in g win g a g e nt s, llo wit h a nt i- y e a nt ed b ra ss y u nw cou nt e ra ct s t a n d s hin y f o s r o f s e n to loo kin g h a ir.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
“SERIE EXPERT’S INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGY OFFERS REAL RESULTS TO CLIENTS” ESTI CARTON, INTERNATIONAL ART DIRECTOR, HARINGTONS
This colour radian ce protect ing sha mpoo leaves coloured hair feeling instant ly soft. Enrich ed with an antiox idant complex and UV filters, client’s colour looks more vibrant, while colour radian ce is protect ed.
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s u rfa ce s a n d re o o p m a h s is Th g ed a n d o ve ra m a d s e t ra hyd n rich ed wit h e ’s t I . ir a h d e p roce ss nt t h at h e lp s e g a e iv ct a n e. li p idiu m, a n s of da ma g ig s e h t e c u d re
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STRENGTHEN, SOLVE AND MAKE A SERIOUS DIFFERENCE ONE-THIRD OF WOMEN SUFFER FROM HAIR DAMAGE.* NOW YOU CAN HELP STRENGTHEN THEIR HAIR WITH THE NEW RANGE BY SERIE EXPERT, INFORCER
DID YOU KNOW?
ONE IN 10 WOMEN SAY HAIR DAMAGE IS THEIR BIGGEST FRUSTRATION*
WHY YOU NEED INFORCER
• STYLING TOOLS, HEATING AND AIR POLLUTION ALL CONTRIBUTE TO HAIR DAMAGE. • WOMEN’S HAIR IS SIGNIFICANTLY LONGER THAN IT USED TO BE, WITH 51 PER CENT OF WOMEN CHOOSING TO WEAR THEIR HAIR LONG, UP FROM 40 PER CENT IN 2012.**
HOW INFORCER WORKS
• IT'S AIMED AT LONG HAIR THAT'S FRAGILE AND PRONE TO BREAKAGE AND SPLIT ENDS
*Source: 2017 Haircare U&A. **2016 Beauty Track
• LONG HAIR REQUIRES MORE CARE AS IT BREAKS MORE EASILY. INFORCER BY SERIE EXPERT TARGETS ANTI-BREAKAGE AND STRENGTHENS THANKS TO ADDED BIOTIN AND B6 – VITAMINS KNOWN FOR THEIR STRENGTHENING PROPERTIES.
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Photographer: Damon Baker.
Model: Taylor Hill for L'Oréal Professionnel.
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
FOR SALON PERFECT HAIR EVERY DAY TO FIND OUT MORE, CALL 0800 030 4034 (UK), 01 6045918 (IRELAND) OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK, KEEP UP-TO-DATE WITH THE BRAND ON SOCIAL MEDIA @LOREALPROUK #LOREALPRO #JUSTFORME
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CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION
education
" l o r r E "Hi, I'm
OUR FEATURED ARTIST IN MAY IS ERROL DOUGLAS MBE
S START 1 MAY
Most Wanted Legend Errol Douglas MBE talks shoots, shows, showmanship – and more!
education
HEAD ONLINE NOW! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION
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Taylor Hill for L’Oréal Professionnel
27078 CH Majirel Color Correction DPS v4.indd 1
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YOU ARE THE EXPERT. MASTER THE TECHNIQUES OF
#COLOR CORRECTION WITH
PERFECT TAILORED COLOUR. NO MORE BRASSINESS. NO MORE DULLNESS.
27078 CH Majirel Color Correction DPS v4.indd 2
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SPEC:
SUPPLY PDF AS SEPERATE PAGES
AUSTRALIA
BELGIUM
CANADA
FRANCE
GERMANY
Ben Kane
Christophe de gauquier
Hassan NassEr
Alexandre monteil
Sabine .. POsl
IRELAND
ITALY
MEXICO
NORWAY
PARAGUAY
' Ciaran O'Sullivan
Domenico Dimola
Perla Monjaras
Jorgen Bech
Stefano Gallitelli
RUSSIA
SPAIN
SWITZERLAND
UK
USA
Evgenia Brand
Roberto Dallo
Meli Selmani
Adam Mir
Jorge Buccio
2017 FINALISTS GOOD LUCK TO OUR UK & IRELAND WINNERS IN THE GLOBAL FINAL
For more information contact UK: 020 73917440 Ireland: 018869300 @americancrewuk Follow us
â„¢
SPEC:
SUPPLY PDF AS SEPERATE PAGES
For more details contact Customer Services UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com
BE FABULOUS draws on all our expertise, innovation and passion
to help hairdressers reveal the beauty in every woman. Over 5 years of research, high potency ingredients and a patented process combine to create the ultimate hair care range.
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D E D I C AT E D TO T H E
C R A F T,
C U LT U R E
A N D
CO M M E R C E
O F
H A I R D R E S S I N G
M a ke h a i r d r e s s i n g h i s t o r y w i t h u s . To j o i n t h e B b. S a l o n N e t w o r k , c a l l 07 747. 6 4 8 .9 3 5 o r v i s i t b u m b l e a n d b u m b l e.c o.u k /s a l o n s .
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S E S S I O N SALON TO
SINCE 1959
With BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range, you can create any look, from session to salon. Our 2400W Italia BRAVA dryer has ionic technology and a Ferrari-designed brushless motor to give a faster airflow, so it’s perfect for prepping any style. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
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Editor’s letter
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48 94
JOIN US!
It. Was. EPIC. This year’s Salon Smart was a real doozy, cramming in more speakers, ideas and debates than ever before – and even a liberal peppering of passionate stage-based swearing (thanks Ky and Matthew!). There was a palpable buzz at this year’s event, and it was fantastic to speak to so many attendees and hear how they had been moved by what the speakers had to share, such as Charles Worthington MBE, the Headmasters team and Most Wanted Business Thinker Mark Woolley from Electric. One guest admitted to me over dinner she got very teary-eyed during Sophia Hilton’s inspirational set! If you were there at the Park Plaza Riverbank this year, please let me know what you changed when you got back to your business – and what impact you’ve seen! But if you didn’t manage to get a ticket (it was sold out after all), simply turn to page 48 and see the action for yourself. Lots of this year’s speakers were there because of their success at the Most Wanted and The It List Awards, sharing details of what they do differently to stand out from the crowd. And there are but a couple of weeks left to get those entries in – who knows what a win could mean for you and your team! Perhaps a place on stage at Salon Smart 2018? Good luck!
Amanda Nottage Editor
It’s May – which means it’s Most Wanted and The It List Awards deadline month! If you haven’t already submitted your Most Wanted or It List entry, you’ve got until 15 and 22 May respectively – head online to read about the categories, what you need to enter. Fancy sipping wine with friends while watching session star Samantha Hillerby and The It List It Guy 2016 Joshua Goldsworthy whip up super-cool looks, while hearing all about the way they work and the techniques they rely on via conversation with Birchbox content and creative director Jessica Diner? Book your ticket now to The Coterie: Live In Session! Taking place in London on 23 May, we promise it’s going to be a stylish night. Visit creativeheadmag.com/events
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year 2014 and 2015
amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine
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creativeheadmag.com
@creativeheadmag
creativeheadmagofficial
@creativeheadmag
20/04/2017 12:22
ROSE QUARTZ T06
New Ash Infusions Smokey Toner Palette
SILVER LILAC T28
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Dual colour system for all colour results, permanent or demi-permanent
Find your stockist At:Fudgeprofessional.com
Fudgehair
May
WHAT’S INSIDE
90
76
SOPHIA HILTON
FASHION
ON THE COVER Taylor Hill for L’Oréal Professionnel. Photography by Damon Baker
The Not Another Salon supremo on what makes her salon work
Mint by Jamie Richards shows a fresh approach
FREE WITHE THIS ISSU
K POWERBOO
98 EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
AMANDA NOTTAGE
ANNA SAMSON
DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY
DEPUTY EDITOR
ADVERTISING
BETH DAVIE
LAURA TUCKER
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR
ART DIRECTOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
NICK JABBAL
DAVID HAMMOND
PUBLISHER
JOANNA ANDERSEN
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD
creativeheadmag.com
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Creative HEAD Magazine
SCENE
The L’Oréal Professionnel Backstage Tour comes to town
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
@creativeheadmag
ON THE COVER Hair by Paul Mitchell
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
20/04/2017 12:23
TANGLE TEEZER X
Compact Styler detangling hairbrush Two tier teeth technology gently detangles hair delivering soft, shiny & healthy looking hair. Great for travel and on-the-go styling. Available in two designs, the super summery prints bring a touch of Miami cool to yours and your clients’ hair.
Please email sales@tangleteezer.com or call 02077 384 458 to find out who your nearest distributor is.
1 DETANGLE
STEP
STEP
BLOW-STYLE
FINISH
2
3
YOUR 3 STEPS TO FABULOUS HAIR
tangleteezer.com
#LetsGoFlamingo
Available exclusively from Salon Success – The Distributor of Choice
AD1300 Marula Creative Head DPS.indd 1
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LUXURY MEETS STYLE Infused with pure, cold-pressed marula oil for instant hydration, taming and softness, these new products transform hair as you style.
RARE OIL STYLE EXTENDING PRIMER Style. Condition. Treat. Primer spray creates an ideal foundation and extends the life of your style as it conditions and protects.
RARE OIL 3 - I N - 1 STYLING CREAM Style. Condition. Treat. Multitasking styling cream instantly smoothes, fights frizz and helps seal split ends as it styles.
R A R E O I L P E R F E C T I N G H A I R S P R AY Lightweight. Replenishing. Flexible. Flexible, layerable hairspray replenishes hair while it holds. Locks out frizz and humidity with a touchable finish.
To find out more visit www.salon-success.co.uk or call 0845 659 0011
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06/04/2017 15:58
W W W.DAVINES.COM W W W.FACEBOOK.COM/DAVINESOFFICIAL
What is art if not a state of being?
MASK WITH VIBRACHROMTM IS THE NEW COLOUR CONDITIONING SYSTEM THAT DELIVERS MORE SHINE AND LONG LASTING COLOUR THANKS TO THE INNOVATIVE SPIRIT OF DAVINES LABORATORIES TO COMBINE NATURE WITH THE LATEST TECHNOLOGIES IN COSMETICS AND TEXTILES.
Hair by Emmanuel Estaban
Hair by Adam Mir
The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
Emmanuel Estaban
Revlon and American Crew reveal UK winners EMMANUEL ESTABAN FROM Anne Veck Salons is the UK finalist for this year’s Revlon Professionals Style Masters contest. He will now compete at the Global Style Masters grand final in Brussels this month, joined there by Adam Mir from Taylor Taylor Barbershop. Adam was revealed as the UK finalist for the American Crew All-Star Challenge at the Tanner Warehouse in London Bridge (pictured below), and will now compete for the international All Star Challenge title. Revlon Professional Style Masters was created as a platform to give hairdressers the chance to express themselves as artists, and entrants have to create a collection of three looks with just one model. The global winner receives not only the coveted Style Masters Gold Trophy, but also a €10,000 (£8,500) cash prize. The American Crew All-Star Challenge is an annual global competition that highlights world-class talent in men’s grooming. The global AllStar winner receives a $10,000 (£8,000) cash prize and extensive press coverage. In 2016 the UK took home both global titles.
BROUGHT TO YOU
100 SALONS. ONE BIG NIGHT. Creative HEAD’s Big Hair Do is now open for salons to sign up. Taking place on Wednesday 27 September, the UK’s biggest hairdressing party will see 100 salons throw open their doors for a unique experience evening filled with fun, education, product testing, hair DIYs and stylist expertise. “There’s a lot of love for the Big Hair Do around the country, with savvy salons coming back time after time and using it as a key business building event,” said Joanna Andersen, special projects director at Alfol Publishing. “It creates a huge buzz on social media and with everyone who takes part.” Brought to you by Creative HEAD, in association with its sister consumer site Layered, Big Hair Do is all about getting people excited about your salon, your team and the services you offer. It’s just £75 to take part and you’ll receive a Big Hair Do pack containing an event planning guide, two posters, 10 team badges and 50 branded bags to fill with goodies. You’ll also be part of something that truly sticks in clients’ minds as the Big Hair Do has trended on Twitter for the past two years, reaching an audience of tens of thousands. Remember, only 100 salons can take part so sign up now to make sure you don’t miss out. Visit ED creativeheadmag.com/ ON LIN E.C OM store to sign up now!
Adam Mir
BIG HAIR DO IS BACK FOR 2017!
L BY
E AY
R
£38,000
The amount Brits spend on haircuts in their lifetime, a collective spend of £6bn Survey by OnePoll on behalf of SME Insurance Services
CONGRATULATIONS TO DANIEL MARTIN, THE NEW GLOBAL STYLING AMBASSADOR FOR GOLDWELL! AN EXPERIENCED SALON AND SESSION STYLIST, WHO HAS WORKED WITH THE LIKES OF GARREN AND EUGENE SOULEIMAN, DANIEL WILL NOW GUIDE THE COLOR ZOOM ’18 CREATIVE TEAM IN THE CREATION OF GOLDWELL’S ANNUAL FASHION COLLECTION
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Brin gin g you
THE WORLD’S TOP SALON BRANDS
Sign up for your Trade Card today in store or online SHOP YOUR WAY AT salon-services.com
0330 123 1907
in store
STRICTLY TRADE ONLY CreativeHEAD 2017 Ad_April 17_220x285mm_PRF2.indd 1
11/04/2017 10:02
Patrick Wilson
#CHedit
ghd hosts wanderlust party THE NEW WANDERLUST collection by ghd and the brand’s summer trends have been revealed to an audience of hairdressers, industry influencers and members of the press. Guest artist Patrick Wilson presented four trends created by global brand ambassador Adam Reed, and in the adventurous spirit that inspired the limited edition tools, ghd encouraged guests to reshape the looks and share their unique take on the trends on social media, using #GlobalHairDays. Dafydd Thomas, ghd global educator, said: “We want hairdressers to get inspired and inspire others as each trend comes alive, with people around the world sharing their style.”
SUSTAINABLE SALON CERTIFICATE LAUNCHES THE ECOHAIR and Beauty project has launched the Sustainable Salon Certificate. Run by Dr Denise Baden from the University of Southampton, in association with industry partners VTCT and Habia, and the All-Party Parliamentary Group on the Hair Industry, Ecohair and Beauty project shares information on sustainable hair practices. Ecohairandbeauty.com is an open access resource to enable hairdressers to adopt more sustainable practices. The culmination of the project is a virtual salon which is designed to show key aspects of sustainable hair care.
Anna Carter makes Davines World Style Contest final ANNA CARTER FROM The Lion & The Fox salon in London (pictured right) was named the UK & Ireland finalist in the Davines World Style Contest during the brand’s live spectacular, Hair on Stage. Held at the Hackney Empire in London, the contest saw five hopefuls compete for the chance to represent Britain and Ireland at the World Wide Hair Tour in Parma, Italy, next year. Anna’s look was inspired by rock-hopper penguins and punk icon Soo Catwoman, and featured close-cropped texture and vivid yellow wings of colour. Her cut, use of colour and overall presentation earned the top score from a panel of judges that included Davines artistic director Angelo Seminara, the Allilon Education team and Creative HEAD’s Alison Rowley.
MY month
AHEAD What May has in store for... GIANNI SCUMACI
SESSION STYLIST
I am looking forward to presenting ‘The Creative Process’ on the philosophy and approach to my work at Rich Mix in London this month, which will showcase GS Education. I’ll be in conversation with Glyn Fussell, the co-founder of Sink The Pink, and Creative HEAD’s Catherine Handcock.
JOSH GOLDSWORTHY GOLDSWORTHY’S
I’m BUSY! I’m teaching a course for Wella and judging its TrendVision Award, making an entry for this year’s It List Awards, and I’m presenting at The Coterie In Session alongside Samantha Hillerby. I’m also renovating a house and getting married in September in Formentera so we’re off to do a final check of the venue!
L’ORÉAL ID ARTISTS RUN TO THE SUN SUN, SEA and a sensational line-up of guest artists were in order when the L’Oréal Professionnel ID Artists enjoyed a three-day international education trip. The L’Oréal Academia Barcelona was the stunning venue for 63 ID Artists who were all there to prepare for the L’Oréal Colour Trophy Backstage Live Tour, which visited 10 cities in the UK and Ireland (see page 98).
After a glamorous reception in Barcelona, the ID Artists were educated on the S/S17 catwalk trends by Paola Fattorusso-Pinto, MJ Farmer and Jamie Benny of the Rush Artistic Team, as well as seeing a preview of L’Oréal Professionnel’s new #COLORFULHAIR.
CONGRATULATIONS TO the latest crop of L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Specialists, who graduated at a special ceremony held at London’s prestigious art and design school, Central Saint Martins. The Colour Specialists now have the opportunity to be part of the Colour SpeciA-List education programme. This programme offers a wide range of education and the chance to join the newlyformed Innovation Team.
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VITAPLEX_AD_CREATIVE_HEAD[RHP].pdf
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Through an exclusive collaboration with label.m, clients can get a free Mary Katrantzou scarf – perhaps suggest the new label.m Fashion Edition Wax Spray first?
RRP WAX SPRAY £13.95; MINIMUM SPEND £30 ON LABEL.M FOR SCARF 01753 612090
Whether your client loves Elsa or R2-D2, Tangle Teezer’s collaboration with Disney will thrill everyone’s favourite princess/space hero.
RRP £13.50 EACH 020 7738 4458 tangleteezer.com
Contour your client without the commitment with the easy Beauty Works Hair Contour tape-in extensions.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0161 485 3602 beautyworks.co.uk
labelm.com
Wet Brush has given its adored Detangler a floral makeover for S/S17! Don’t worry, the IntelliFlex bristles are still there…
RRP £12.99
INTERNATIONALSALES@ JDBEAUTY.COM
thewetbrush.com
Whatever the wave your client wants to ride, show them the new curling wand by Cloud Nine.
RRP £99
Now that summer is here, more clients will be shrugging their shoulders, embracing their natural texture and air drying to the max! And TIGI has this trend nailed with new launches to join its hearty texture line-up. Alongside the brilliantly named Calma Sutra Cleansing Conditioner is Screw It Curl Hydrating Jelly Oil, which delivers a delicious dose of intense moisture and shine. Need to help them fight the frizz? Get Twisted Anti-Frizz Finishing Spray is your go to, locking in waves and curls. Surfboards, Sex Wax and hanging 10 optional. RRP FROM £13.95 0844 844 0944
With non-slip rubber feet and a high gloss finish, this draw mat from Hair Rehab London is perfect for holding hair in place during applications.
hairrehablondon.com/ salon-professional
bumbleandbumble.co.uk
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Now you can condition as you style in luxury with the new styling range from Marula Oil.
RRP FROM £22.95 0845 659 0012
Thermal Protection Spray from Balmain Paris Hair Couture creates an ultra-fine invisible thermal shield.
SALON PRICE £72.21 SALONPROFESSIONAL@ HAIRREHABLONDON.COM
RRP £23 EACH 07747 648935
professional. cloudninehair.com
paul-mitchell .co.uk
bedhead.com
Already a fan of Bumble and bumble’s Sumo range? Then you’ll love new Sumoclay for matte texture, and the solid, crystal clear Sumogel for a structured, high shine look.
01943 811314
RRP £22.50
0800 781 0936
balmainhair.com
A clean healthy scalp is the first step to great hair – Aveda’s new Pramãsana range includes an exfoliating scalp brush to help tackle build-up and impurities.
Say hello to new pastel shades from Goldwell’s Colorance range, perfect for the festival season!
RRP FROM £14 0370 0342380
01323 432100
aveda.co.uk
goldwell.co.uk
IN-SALON SERVICE
CREATIVE HEAD
20/04/2017 12:26
#CHedit
STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS DAILY BLOW-DRYING, styling and even air pollution all contribute to hair damage so it’s no wonder more and more women are looking at ways to strengthen their hair. Inforcer by L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert is antibreakage (bye-bye, split-ends) and strengthens the hair thanks to added Biotin and B6 – vitamins known for their strengthening properties. Inforcer is part of the new-look Serie Expert, which includes the new in-salon Powermix treatments. Whether your client’s hair is in need of nourishment, smoothing, shine or repair, there is a Powermix for them.
RRP INFORCER FROM £12; POWERMIX IN-SALON SERVICE 0800 030 4034 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
IT’S ALL ABOUT... BRIGHTS AND PASTELS There’s more to love from Paul Mitchell colour – POP XG now has pastels while The Demi has unveiled a matte and pearl ash series.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 659 0012 paul-mitchell.co.uk
Adored in bathrooms across the globe, creative colour force Manic Panic now has a semi-permanent line-up exclusively for salons. Our eye is on Smoke Screen…
IN-SALON SERVICE 01579 341913 manic-panic.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
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COLOUR CONSULTATION INSPIRATION, INNOVATION AND BUSINESS BOOSTING IDEAS TO MAKE COLOUR BIG IN YOUR SALON
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
{
NEW SERVICES
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WELCOME TO THE #COLORCORRECTION ERA!
With thousands of Google searches and more than 512,000 #colorcorrection Instagram posts recently, #colorcorrection has never been more on-trend! It’s no longer simply about fixing a colour that has gone wrong, it’s also about reviving hair that’s dull and uniform, and giving it a new radiance with touches of shine and light; the same way a make-up artist can make a woman’s skin tone appear more beautiful. Inspired by subtle make-up techniques, #colorcorrection is an ultra-personalised colour service aimed at answering the most desired hair needs. This is why your clients are going to love these three new #colorcorrection services from L’Oréal Professionnel!
TO FOLLOW
DULL HAIR? LACK OF SHINE?
BRASSY COLOUR? YELLOW REFLECTS?
HAIR THAT’S JUST TOO UNIFORM?
Try #MYFLASHLUMINIZER to bring an extra shot of shine to the hair, perfect for lifeless-looking colour.
Try #MYFLASHNEUTRALIZER to get rid of brassiness by neutralising with cool shades.
Try #MYCOLORSCULPTOR to create a multi-dimensional colour, by adding different elements of light and shadow.
{
GET THE LOOK
}
#We’reLoving
…This beautiful balayage Smartbond transformation by the #smartsquad at @guykremersalon. Want it? Recreate it for your clients using the following steps: STEP 1: Apply DIA RICHESSE 6.12 + 9 vol on the roots + Smartbond step 1 STEP 2: Pre-lighten the ends using Blond Studio Multi-Techniques + 30 vol + Smartbond step 1 STEP 3: Tone the lengths and ends with DIA LIGHT 10.32 + 9 vol + Smartbond step 1 STEP 4: Once all technical steps are complete, follow with Smartbond step 2
Go to @lorealprouk on Instagram to see more transformations. Share your own using @lorealprouk #lorealpro #smartbond 30
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CONSULTATION TIPS
}
{
SMARTBOND
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
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HEART OF THE SALON Did you know the over 45 age group are 49 per cent* of your salon’s clients? However, the frequency at which they colour their hair has dropped because the need for colouring has been affected as 51 per cent* of them are embracing grey. Also, with changes to their skin tone, they feel their hair colour no longer complements their look, and with the characteristics of the hair altering, they are worrying more about damage and condition. So what can you do to retain them and meet their needs? Our top tips for keeping your clients happy are:
*Kantar Wordpanel, Females GB, 2015
1. OFFER THE RIGHT EXPERIENCE to make their
INCREASE YOUR PROFITS WITH SMARTBOND
£28,000
colouring service as enjoyable and personalised as possible and make the client feel valued through the bespoke offers and loyalty schemes.
That’s how much turnover Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London made from Smartbond, the revolutionary new bonding agent from L’Oréal Professionnel, since August 2016. The team sells 28 applications a week on average – so just imagine what Smartbond can do to your salon’s bottom line! Gavin Hoare from the salon shares his top tips on how to sell Smartbond…
2. OFFER THE RIGHT CONSULTATION to identify the right
1. Explain to your clients how Smartbond differs to any other service available in-salon. It’s better to simply advise rather than be pushy or trying to sell them a service.
shade to suit their changing skin tone.
3. OFFER THE RIGHT SERVICES with colour products such as Majirel and INOA for up to 100 per cent grey coverage and add Smartbond to all colour services for protected and stronger hair.
2. Start all technical booking conversations by asking the client if they have time for a Smartbond service. 3. Incentivise your team on both in-salon service and retail sales. {
THE COURSE
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ACT YOUR SHADE! {
THE RETAIL
Help your clients find the right strengthening and anti-breakage solution for their fragile, prone to breakage hair with the new Inforcer range from Serie Expert!
CREATIVE HEAD
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Hair colouring at the moment is so focused around the younger clientele that the mature market often gets overlooked, but this shouldn’t be the case. Learn how to make your clients not just opt for maintenance colour services by attending John Clark’s Creative Colour course. The colour director at Brooks & Brooks identifies the latest exciting shades and colour placements for your clients, proving that it’s not grey hair, it’s a silver lining. No ‘mumsy’ colours here, just a busy column. Book your place now for his 26 June session in Maidstone in Kent. For more, visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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#CHedit
R I S I N G S TA R
WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? As a child, I went to the hair salon with my mum and was fascinated by the whole salon experience. Watching stylists cut and colour, transforming the whole look of their client, I found it so interesting and exciting. I left school at 16 with only my Art GCSE and undertook work experience in a local hair salon. I absolutely loved every minute and it made me realise hair was what I wanted to do!
WILL LAMB
AGE: 23 SALON: DANIEL GRANGER HAIRDRESSING
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I’ve worked at Daniel Granger for three years and watching him build his new salon has been an incredible experience. I was honoured to be his representative at the fantastic Most Wanted Awards and to collect the award for Best New Salon! It was an amazing experience knowing how hard he has worked on the salon. Our mutual belief in one another is an incredible feeling, I could not ask for a better boss! WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I’m looking forward to the next phase of my career, I have a huge passion for teaching hairdressing so to travel the world with my team to educate, motivate and inspire others across the globe would be phenomenal. That’s definitely something I look forward to! WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? To showcase the latest cut, colour and styling hair trends with some of the biggest celebrities in the world.
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/04/2017 12:29
COLOUR ME GOOD
Collection: Karine Jackson ‘Why Label It’ Hair: Karine Jackson for Organic Colour Systems, Photography: Andrew O’Toole, Styling: Leticia Dare, Make-Up: Margaret Aston, Assistant: Nichola Hand, Organic Colour Systems
THOU SHALT NOT COMPROMISE...
ColourSystems www.organiccoloursystems.com
#CHedit
Inside story BARN//IT MANCHESTER ANDREW TROTT-BARN, celebrity hair stylist from ITV’s Star Treatment, has unveiled a super-salon on Manchester’s John Dalton Street. Hosted across five floors, guests can visit the hairdressing section led by Andrew himself, plus visit the beauty area and select treatments ranging from an expert cut to a full reinvention. There’s a bar offering complimentary cocktails and a top floor space available for events and photography. “We’ve thought long and hard about what the ultimate salon experience would be and have left nothing to chance,” explained Andrew. “Every inch of the new salon is totally ‘Instagrammable’.” Fans of barn//it already include Faye Brookes, Helen Flanagan and Michelle Keegan.
HOT BUYS
now open
Make your salon feel like a home away from home for guests with the Sofa shampoo unit. It’s comfy, looks incredible and with the tap and shower head at the sides of the basin, you can freely lather away! Price from £1,138 (usually £2,149) 07554 990965 salonambience.com
ENERGY HAIR TOPSHAM
LOUNGE LOVER
SEE MORE deals from Salon Ambience in your free brochure with this issue of Creative HEAD! 34
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This salon has celebrated five years at its exclusive Darts Farm location by investing more than £100,000 into a luxurious redesign!
CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2017 13:41
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FROM INSIDE
THE SALON DOMENICO PANETTA MIGUELE EXPERIENCE
We operate a system called ‘Daily Reality’. Our frontline team identifies if complaints are ‘latent’ or ‘registered’. A registered complaint is when a client directly complains, and the facts are recorded. A latent complaint is when a stylist or support staff believe the client might not be totally happy and that perhaps it could result in a registered complaint. This is entered onto the Daily Reality sheet and the client is called within 24 to 48 hours. We have designed a flow chart which gives the necessary guidance enabling front liners to follow clear steps. Research has proven that if a complaint is successfully resolved and within a 24-hour period, the loyalty factor is increased and that client will tell more people about their experience. You should always consider the ‘lifetime value’ of a client. Sometimes they are hasty in their decision to walk away and we must make it easier to return.
THE BUSINESS EDIT
CAN YOU HANDLE COMPLAINTS? IT’S SOMETHING OF a cliché that Brits are too polite to complain with any real conviction, as a recent survey by SME Insurance illustrates, claiming 40 per cent of Brits wouldn’t complain about a bad haircut. However, what this also suggests is that too many clients are underwhelmed with their experience… and with 28 per cent saying they wouldn’t complain AND they wouldn’t return, there’s a real cost to your business and no opportunity for you to put things right. Ken West, director of 3•6•5, is encouraging 3•6•5 members to think about what they could do as salon owners and managers in the time it would take to do two fewer haircuts. One suggestion is to call clients that haven’t returned, as these are “your silent complainers”. He suggests picking up the phone and asking them: ‘We respect your decision to not return to our salon, please would you be kind enough to share what we could have done better?’ “Once they have answered your question, thank them for their time and hang up,” he adds. “Do not turn it into a sales call, do not beg them to return to you. You could follow up later with an offer by post or email, but the most important outcome is to receive their feedback about your business.” “Reception always asks the client if they are happy with the service they received today,
and our booking system is also set to email every client with a questionnaire after their appointment, giving them the opportunity to give us feedback on all aspects of our service,” says Jo Hardardt at Elements. “If a client has cause to complain about a situation we always encourage them to come back and let us look after them for free until the complaint is resolved. This again is overseen by a senior stylist and management.” As part of its consultation, the team at Fowler35 ask clients if there is one thing they could change about their hair, what would that be? “When we finish we will again reiterate, in front of the mirror, which areas they were unhappy with, and do a sense check,” says owner Darren Fowler. “As we know clients often don’t feel able to admit they are not happy, we are all trained to pick up on bodylanguage and energy, as this will often give us vital clues even if they client isn’t verbally expressing them.” “With those vocal, unhappy clients, we utilise empathy as much as possible, and aim to understand what their human needs are – some people might just want a bit of attention!” admits Darren. “Mostly we find that getting onto the client’s wavelength, asking what they need us to do to resolve their complaint and offering added value works better than anything.”
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/04/2017 12:31
#BusinessEdit
The Numbers Game THE STATS OF SALON LIFE – AND HOW YOU CAN IMPROVE YOUR FIGURES
While the majority of the panel planned on taking on apprentices, about a fifth stated that they didn’t know what was involved with the new Trailblazer apprenticeships. But salons were optimistic that this would mean more ‘salon ready’ stylists, as the current standard qualifying through colleges are disappointing. “We had to retrain for a year a member of staff who had an NVQ qualification,” said Tops Salon’s Victoria Stevens. “She could have set up a salon herself with the qualification but she could hardly cut – it’s scary!”
9.6%
56%
of apprentices are either full time in salon or have in-house training
of respondents believe college graduates meet their skills standards
82%
of salons will offer apprenticeships after Trailblazer standards start this month
All areas Cutti ng C onsultation/ communication
There’s a huge amount of ongoing training required to get newly-qualified recruits where you want them to be. Having the resources to provide this at a time when it’s harder than ever to recruit experienced staff is incredibly difficult RUBY MANE, RUBY MANE SALON
WAS THE AVERAGE RETAIL IN MARCH TURNOVER
£46.65
BUSINESS IN MARCH 2017 COMPARED WITH FEBRUARY 2017?
steady 10%
WAS THE AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (NET)
13.6%
22%
In which areas do you find apprentices to be lacking?
AVERAGE TOTAL CLIENTS WERE NEW CLIENTS
declining
6%
growing 84%
BUSINESS IN MARCH 2017 COMPARED WITH MARCH 2016?
declining
16%
steady 16%
growing 68%
“Apprentices are key to giving your salon a breath of fresh air, but they need the support of quality tools and effective management in order to maximise performance. Ikosoft proposes a real training tool with its suite of Merlin programmes. It gives you a thorough insight into each employee’s core skills, specialities and problem areas. Today, too many stylists imagine a computer system is not for them but young apprentices understand IT is the future and they encourage managers to adopt systems. “They bring a new vision and new qualifications. In just half a day an apprentice can master the basics of a programme like Merlin and can then show their colleagues how to use it, creating a fantastic team dynamic! In a salon with a management programme that gives each employee independence, each stylist can be his own enterprise. Watch as your salon turnover increases considerably!” Morgane Brosset is marketing director at software provider Ikosoft. Visit ikosoft.com
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Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
APPRENTICES AND QUALIFICATIONS
CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2017 13:44
It’s time for change
The Curling Wand
Your Hair, Your Heat, Your Style. For more information about availability to become a stockist, please call 01943 811314. Available until 31/05/17 For Terms and Conditions please visit: www.cloudninehair.com/terms-revolution
#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
KAREN BELL VINCENT BELL HAIRDRESSING
Timing is crucial. We learnt that when we rushed the decision to open a second salon. It quickly became apparent that the property wasn’t right for us and it didn’t feel like a good fit. If we had taken time to do the proper research, we would have realised it was not the right move for us. People often say it’s all about location. Take it from us, that’s the truth, but it is not necessarily the right location for your brand. Neighbours are hugely important. Our current salon is near brands that align with ours. These are not only inspiring but when grouped together create a lifestyle destination that is mutually beneficial for all businesses on the street. Don’t be afraid to admit when something isn’t working. We cut our losses when we realised our salon was in the wrong location. However, it is the right location for other brands and we quickly rented the properly out, as we had the foresight to buy our units.
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BIN THAT PRICE LIST
IT MIGHT SEEM SCARY, BUT KEN WEST IS SUGGESTING YOU RIP UP THAT PRICE LIST FOR YOUR BUSINESS TO BLOOM KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
THERE WAS QUITE an audible rumble across the Salon Smart audience when I stated: “I don’t believe that salons need to print out, or to place on their websites, a detailed salon price list.” I believe that if someone goes into every salon and builds up a collection of price lists, or visits a series of websites, then they will often purchase on price alone. However, when I suggest to salon owners that they should no longer give out price lists at reception, they always come up with the same statement: “But people coming in always ask for one”. I agree, but what else can a potential client ask when they walk into a new salon, when all they probably want to find out is what you are like? They certainly can’t ask: “Are you nice people?”, “Are you inspirational?” or “Can you treat me better than my existing salon?”. However, how you choose to deal with a price enquiry can tell a potential client that you are not just another “me too” salon… You need a price list for your team to refer
to, but let’s be frank here – most salon price lists only make sense to hairdressers. They are often full of factory language that only we understand and sometimes even terms that we have invented ourselves. What is a ‘half head of highlights’ in a customer’s mind? Half of their head; half of their hair or the half of the hair that is the only bit that needs recolouring? Oh no, we call that ‘roots’… or do we? There are two desired outcomes to any price enquiry. They want a price, you want a booking. So instead of handing out a price list, why don’t you encourage conversations? Explain that you want to create the perfect outcome for every client and invite them to have a coffee and tell you exactly what they want their hair to look like. Then you can give them a quote for the total service. Don’t break it down into colour, cut, treatments and so on. Give a total price for beautiful, fabulous hair and book them an appointment. After all, that’s what they really want.
PLEASE GIVE KEN FEEDBACK Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
20/04/2017 12:32
Can you afford NOT to be a member?
HELPING YOUR BUSINESS BE MORE SUCCESSFUL
GET YOUR VOICE HEARD •
•
Peace of mind with free 24/7 employment law advice
•
Save money with our free tax, VAT and payroll helpline
•
Protect your team with free health & safety advice
•
Cut through red tape with our NHF pension
•
Stay legal with free employment and chair rental contracts
•
Keep up to date on legislation changes
Fighting for you on the key issues affecting our industry
SAVE YOUR TIME AND MONEY •
Grow with our experienced business support
•
Safeguard your business with NHF discounts on insurance, music licences and many more
To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info/benefits
Quote CHM25 to receive £25 off your new membership* *before 31 May 2017
QA
#BusinessEdit
JENNIFER SAXTON MINDBODY
HOW DOES YOUR APP AND WEB SOLUTION DIFFER? Our software takes care of admin tasks such as scheduling, resourcing, booking, payment, payroll, staff and client management, and point of sale. Salon owners can get on with it while MINDBODY automates day-to-day tasks. They can get reports on performance and make adjustments. There’s a free consumer app people can use to find, book and pay for appointments.
HOW ELSE DO YOU SUPPORT SALON OWNERS? We have monthly webinars that give business owners the inside scoop on successful business management. Topics range from learning what’s critical for your business to how to market to new clients, and how to maximise the business during the holidays.
WHAT DO YOU HAVE PLANNED FOR THE FUTURE? We’re building branded web and mobile tools for salons to promote themselves to new and existing clients, including a salon’s visual identity into every online experience clients have with them.
TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES!
MARK HAYES, INTERNATIONAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF SASSOON Since geometrics, what has been the most influential introduction to cutting for you?
@Hair_Hour
In terms of scissor cutting I think the most significant addition to the repertoire of geometrics has been the introduction of freehand techniques, which were first initiated during the punk era of the ’70s. Ironically they started as a counterpoint to the sleek geometry of the styles that had gone before and served to create an aggressive or looser, romantic texture in hair. With development and experimentation, freehand cutting has become the fourth method and is a perfect complement to the finishing process of the classics of lines graduation and layering. What is your favourite iconic look or collection and why?
@CWhiskersHair
The rich heritage of Sassoon means that my inspiration and influences change at different times. The Nancy Kwan and the Five Point are the epitome of the geometric method as well as the finest pieces of work from Vidal himself. The layered geometrics, The Veil and The Mouche, are both by Roger Thompson, the first Sassoon international creative director. Graduated shapes, such as The Firefly by Henry Abel and The Box Bob by Fumio Kawashima, are still so relevant. All are perfect for the time in which they were created but, like all great design, transcend this to become timeless classics. What would you change about the hairdressing industry if you had a magic wand?
@RadiantHairC
I have been in this industry for 40 years now and have been fortunate to have been mentored, trained and surrounded by some incredibly intelligent, insightful and amazingly gifted people. I think that more emphasis should be on continuous training, as I have seen the significant difference it can make to both the individual and the craft as a whole. This is a great industry, full of creativity, excitement, innovation and opportunity. I would give more freedom to that spirit as I feel that this is when the industry is at its most compelling. Next issue: Angelo Seminara. Tweet us at @creativeheadmag
Insider Insight
54%
Supported by
is the percentage of beauty bookings that happen on a mobile phone. Searches for ‘near me’ are on the up, meaning more and more customers are looking for last minute appointments on the go. Make sure potential clients find you when they’re searching and let them see when you’re free. top tip! Make sure customers can book online and your availability is up to date. You’d be surprised how many haircuts get booked at 3am!
To learn how Treatwell tools and insights could help your business, visit treatwell.co.uk/business-info or call 0330 100 3515
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CREATIVE HEAD
19/04/2017 09:40
CONTOURING WITHOUT THE COMMITMENT HAIR CONTOURING IS HUGE, BUT NOT EVERY CLIENT WANTS THE PERMANENCY THAT COMES WITH IT. BEAUTY WORKS HAS THE ANSWER WITH A NEW TAPE-IN EXTENSION SERVICE
HAIR CONTOURING – with its ability to highlight, define and accentuate a client’s features – is a trend that’s only growing in popularity. Colour clients previously loyal to balayage are flocking to try it out, and colour-shy clients are giving it a go due to it being relatively low maintenance. But what about those clients worried about damage and the use of chemicals? No matter how hot a trend is, these clients won’t budge when it comes to trying a colour service. And now they don’t have to, with Beauty Works’ Hair Contour service. It not only enables you to contour your client’s hair without damaging it, you can also highlight and brighten by simply adding multi-dimensional pieces and placing them where you want to accentuate your client’s features. The tape-in extensions are small enough to be placed at the front of the hairline and can be used to add colour around the face. The high-quality cuticle Remy hair can be applied in seconds (so no more hours in the chair for busy clients) and each tape tab is folded into a strand of the client’s own hair, creating contoured colour instantly. It also stays fixed in place for weeks with its specially formulated medical grade adhesive. No chemicals, no more hours spent in-salon and no commitment – Beauty Works Hair Contour extensions are perfect for salons and clients on the go.
Contour your way to a whole new clientele with Beauty Works. To find out more, call 0161 485 3602, email customerservice@beautyworks.co.uk or visit beautyworks.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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#BusinessEdit
YOUR SALON CHECKLIST MAKING SURE YOUR BUSINESS IS READY FOR THE YEAR AHEAD
ALCOHOL LICENCES: A toughening up of the rules governing the sale of alcohol to businesses means salons that sell or provide alcohol should now check that their supplier has been properly approved by HMRC under its Alcohol Wholesaler Registration Scheme.
HAIRDRESSERS LOVE THEIR WORK NEARLY NINE OUT OF 10 NHF salon and barbershop owners – 87 per cent – describe themselves as being either ‘happy’ or ‘very happy’ in their work, an NHF members’ survey has revealed. The poll of nearly 150 members found that ‘making clients feel good’ was the most satisfying element about their work (45 per cent) followed by ‘working in or running a successful business’ (28 per cent). On the other hand, stress was the thing that made members most unhappy (35 per cent), followed by “not making enough money” (28 per cent). The survey suggested there was a clear link between a happy team and a happy, successful salon. If a salon had a happy, engaged team, that was more likely to feed through into a better client experience, excellent service and a more relaxed, pleasant atmosphere. “Hairdressing is a sociable job; we’re chatting and interacting with the clients all day long. Hairdressing is about making people feel good about themselves, feeling happy, and that comes through I think within the job,” agreed NHF member Sarah Turnbull, who runs Sublime Hairdressing in Stirling. When it came to what made members unhappy, responses included: “The amount of money I pay to HMRC, VAT, PAYE, tax, auto-enrolment and wondering what they are going to introduce next” and “stress caused by staffing issues and difficulty finding qualified staff that can actually do the job properly without the need to retrain”.
APPRENTICESHIP LEVY: The new apprenticeship levy came into force from April. Any employer with a pay bill of more than £3m will be charged 0.5 per cent of this (so a minimum of £15,000) to pay into a central pot to fund apprenticeship-based education. This will, however, only affect larger employers in the industry.
CCTV: Hair salons and barber shops are being warned that, if they have a CCTV security system to monitor their premises, they need to register it with the Information Commissioner’s Office. It costs £35 a year to do so, and you can do it at ico.org.uk/for-organisations/register/. Failure to register your system can put you at risk of being taken to court and fined up to £500,000, said CCTV.co.uk. EMPLOYMENT CHECKS: The NHF is reminding salons owners to carry out background checks on all new staff, after the government carried out a drive to crack down on illegal workers, which included targeting the beauty industry. The government outlines how to carry out right-to-employment checks on its gov.uk website. This includes making sure you see original, valid and in-date documents showing they have a right to work in the UK, and making and keeping copies. It is also important to ensure photographs and dates of birth match and the potential employee has permission to do the type of work you’re offering. The NHF also outlines how to carry out the checks in its employment guides, available online at nhf.info. GENDER PAY REPORTING: Since April, larger employers (employing 250 people or more), have been required to report publicly on any gender pay gap they may have, including any bonus payments they may make. MATERNITY, PATERNITY AND SICK PAY
Statutory pay rates for maternity, paternity, adoption and shared parental leave all rose from April, as did the rate for statutory sick pay. They are now:
PAY
SICK
WEEKLY RATE NOW £89.35
MATERNITY, PATERNITY, ADOPTION AND SHARED PARENTAL LEAVE
WEEKLY RATE PREVIOUSLY
£140.98
£88.45
£139.58
Workers on Living and Minimum Wage ‘unaware of rights’ MORE THAN HALF (57 per cent) of workers on the National Minimum Wage or National Living Wage do not realise it is illegal for their employer to deduct money from their wages to cover the cost of a uniform, if that then takes their pay below the legal minimum, government research has suggested. A study by the Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy ahead of April’s increases
in both wages found widespread ignorance among low-paid workers as to what they are entitled to. More than two thirds (69 per cent) of employees did not know they were entitled to be paid for travel time between work appointments. And nearly half (48 per cent) did not realise employers cannot use tips to “top up” pay to the legal minimum. The NHF’s ‘A Guide to the National Minimum Wage’ is available at nhf.info
The NHF has ed revised and simplifi ts, ac ntr co e ye plo its em d staff handbook an reements apprenticeship ag Wales d an nd gla En for p/ ho f-s nh fo/ nhf.in
To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 44
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2017 13:50
FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...
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FOR EVERY SUBSCRIBER*
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CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 THREE BED HEAD FOR MEN PRODUCTS, FEATURING CLEAN UP SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER AND BALM DOWN COOLING AFTERSHAVE, WORTH £33. FIVE LUCKY SUBSCRIBERS WILL RECEIVE A BED HEAD FOR MEN GOODIE BAG, FEATURING CLEAN UP SHAMPOO, CONDITIONER, MATTE SEPARATION WAX, BALM DOWN COOLING AFTERSHAVE, LION TAMER BEARD & HAIR BALM AND THE EXPENDABLE TRAVEL BAG, WORTH £75.75
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NT VE E E LIV ED BY E U T NIQ ESEN U A PR
nt
e ev
THE UK’S BIGGEST HAIR PARTY! SIGN UP FOR £75 What guests can expect New hair tricks Quick style fixes ● How-to tutorials ● Expert advice ● Goodie bags with free products
The benefits to you Increased client loyalty Exposure to new clients ● Retail sales on the night ● A chance to show off your skills ● Exposure on a national level
●
●
●
●
Sign-up your salon at creativeheadmag.com/store or call 01434 610416 You’ll be sent a Big Hair Do pack containing salon posters, badges for the team, goodie bags and a guide showing you how to organise and promote your Big Hair Do
creativeheadmag.com/events #bighairdo
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L BY BROUGHT TO YOU
E AY
RE
DO
BIG HAIR DO!
NL
INE
.CO
M
ONE BIG 100 SALONS NIGHT WEDNESDAY 27 SEPTEMBER 2017
Throw open your doors to the public for a unique experience evening ямБlled with fun, advice, hair DIYs, playtime with products, and stylist expertise
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SMARTER THAN YOUR AVERAGE In its revamped home at London’s Park Plaza Riverbank hotel, Salon Smart was a sellout yet again, providing a spring-into-action line-up of business nous with lashings of ideas, inspiration and motivation! In partnership with L’Oréal Professionnel, 3•6•5 and Paul Mitchell, there was a fresh energy fuelling the whole event, with more speakers, panel members, creative artists and delegates than ever before. Oh, and Charles Worthington MBE being flashed by Sharon Stone – you just HAD to be there…
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2017 15:53
#SalonSmart17
QUIZ AND FIZZ
OVER A GENEROUS serving of bubbles, various industry geniuses were on hand to answer the questions of 250 enquiring salon owners and managers – we’re talking Lee Stafford, Michael Van Clarke and Sophia Hilton, to name a few. From finding the next generation of apprentices to boosting staff loyalty and retention, no question was too small. And it got everyone mixed nicely for the evening ahead.
SEE MORE! There are loads of photos from Salon Smart to enjoy – check out our Facebook albums facebook.com/creativeheadmag
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Paul Dennison Katie Allan
Jack Howard
Daniel Oram
MJ Farmer
Ken Picton Paul Mitchell
Paul Mitchell
DINNER AND A SHOW
AFTER A DAY that took care of the business side of things, it was time to let creativity come to the fore. The Paul Mitchell artistic educators kicked off the evening’s entertainment with a model presentation, a stunning sequence that showcased the beauty and punch of the brand’s POP XG colour – and the audience could see the striking results at close hand. A sumptuous three-course dinner followed before the audience settled down to enjoy a further exploration of colour in our COLOUR. CREATIVITY. CONVERSATION. LIVE! segment. L’Oréal Professionnel artists Katie Allan (Charles Worthington salons), MJ Farmer (Rush Hair), Jack Howard (Paul Edmonds London) and Paul Dennison (Ken Picton Salon) took to the stage in turns to discuss the colour work on their chosen model, including the techniques and applications they’d used, all hosted by education director Darren Oram. Delectable!
CREATIVE HEAD
18/04/2017 15:53
#SalonSmart17
LET’S TALK ABOUT IT
A KEY PART of Salon Smart is the chance to see business experts enjoy a frank conversation over some of the day’s hot topics. Closing out Sunday was the live panel debating the youth of today, featuring Ken West; Headmasters’ Jon Sanders; The Gallery’s Lorenzo Colangelo; salon owner and NHF ambassador Wendy Cummins; hair icon and educator Lee Stafford; salon owner Ken Picton; and publicity director for Salon Success, Zoë Vears. Enticing 16-year-olds to leave school when those schools are financially incentivised to keep them on is a battle, although Ken Picton admitted: “I’m happy to take 18, 19, or 20-yearolds on to be apprentices. I’ll find the budget.” On the Monday, another A-list panel debated the pros and cons of chair rental – Ken West; Steve Rowbottom of Westrow; Toby Dicker from The Chapel; Ky Wilson of The Social; NHF legal expert Laura Chalkley; and Alice Kirby from Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing. “The example of Uber has shone a light on freelancers,” admitted Laura, “it’s about mutuality of obligation.”
WELCOME TO THE WILD WEST “LIDL SHELF STACKERS EARN MORE THAN A LOT OF HAIRDRESSERS AND THAT MAKES ME FEEL ASHAMED. WE HAVE TO CHANGE THIS” KEN WEST
DIRECTOR OF 3•6•5, Ken had started a focus on young talent at last year’s Salon Smart, asking salons where had all the 16 year olds gone… and did you actually need them? He implored salons to think differently and act differently – such as employing older apprentices and to consider what you want your apprentices doing – learning hands on with hair, or doing menial tasks like sweeping up.
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FEELS LIKE TEAM SPIRIT HEADMASTERS COMMERCIAL director Tim Binnington, brand strategist Laura Hinton and artistic ambassadors Jonathan Soons and Gareth Williams, provided a fascinating insight into the inner workings of the 65-strong salon group as it celebrates its 35th anniversary this year. Stating that everything comes back to the brand’s motto: ‘Beautiful, fashionable, confidence-boosting hair’, Tim began by saying that the past two years have seen the group focused on boosting its colour clients, and they are now at 39 per cent of clients (from 33 per cent two years ago). The group also focuses its attention on digital, creating collections specifically for social media. “Our aesthetic is attainable fashion,” said Jonathan.
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THE PROS AND CONS OF CHAIR RENTING
TO RENT OR NOT TO RENT – THIS IS WHAT WAS ASKED DURING A LIVE PANEL DEBATE AT SALON SMART AND IT DIVIDED PANEL AND AUDIENCE ALIKE. 3•6•5’S KEN WEST WAS ON THE PANEL AND SEEKS TO SHED SOME LIGHT ON THE SUBJECT AT 3•6•5 WE HAVE always believed employing your team is the best way to grow, motivate and create the right salon culture. Our programme and systems are designed to ensure that a salon’s business is built on a sound financial structure that supports this model. However, we know that our industry is going through a period of reinvention with some salons now considering various self-employment models. This is why 3•6•5 worked on a White Paper with the National Hairdressers’ Federation on the pros and cons of having stylists operate as self-employed ‘chair renters’ within your business. Here you will find a summary of the White Paper. First, do the numbers. Look at where you could save. If you have renters, you won’t have to pay employers National Insurance Contributions or pension contributions.
ASK YOURSELF IF THE VARIOUS MODELS WOULD WORK FOR YOU: l Licence fee: charge a fixed weekly or monthly rent. l Service charge: take a percentage of the chair renter’s takings to cover services provided. l A mix of both.
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LICENCE FEE MODEL
This will provide you with a steady income no matter how many clients your chair renter looks after. However, if they prove to be busy, you may feel you are losing out on extra income as you won’t receive a share of their takings.
SERVICE CHARGE MODEL
If your chair renter is not as busy as you’d hoped, takes long holidays or are taken ill, you could lose out as this is not a fixed income stream.
LICENCE AND SERVICE MODEL
This model guarantees a lower fixed income from the licence fee, but also provides you with a percentage of the chair renter’s service charge. As their takings contribute to the salon’s turnover, it encourages chair renters to work longer hours in order to keep a higher percentage of their turnover.
LOSS OF CONTROL
However appealing any savings and steady income streams may seem, you will be sacrificing an awful lot more within your business – namely control over the client experience and your brand. Chair renters run their own business and their clients are theirs, not yours. They are responsible not only for registering their business, but they must also have their own insurance as well as display a notice giving their name and registered company address. You also need to be crystal clear on how takings are collected and distributed. All money received from clients is the property of the chair renter, even if it is collected centrally. If money is collected centrally, it must be handed over to the chair renter or paid into the chair renter’s bank account. There is no right or wrong answer, but weigh up the pros and cons for your business before making an informed decision.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
RIGHT SIDE OF THE LAW
TO AVOID GETTING INTO HOT WATER WITH THE HMRC, YOU CAN’T ENFORCE THE FOLLOWING WITH A CHAIR RENTER:
l What hours they work l What they charge their clients l What uniform or clothing to wear l Which products to use or sell l Which services to provide l What marketing materials or special offers to provide l Which clients they take on or turn away l You can’t provide training and education l You can’t decide who will ‘cover’ their chair in the event of any absence
YOU MUST HAVE A CT! WATERTIGHT CONTRA LONG W HO E LUD INC IT MUST T, HOW LAS L WIL T THE AGREEMEN EITHER PARTY, BY D DE EN BE N CA IT INGS GO WRONG WHAT HAPPENS IF TH NEVER DRAW UP S. IOD AND NOTICE PER – THESE YOUR OWN CONTRACTS COURT, IN UP ND STA T NO WILL IONAL SS OFE PR K ALWAYS SEE LEGAL ADVICE
Discover how 3•6•5 can help your salon today. To find out more, call 0845 659 0015 or visit 365hair.com
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“IF YOU DON’T LOVE THE PLACE YOU GO EVERY DAY AND THE PEOPLE YOU SEE, YOU’LL GIVE UP ON THE INSIDE. IT WOULD BE LIKE BEING IN A PRISON THAT YOU BUILT” SOPHIA HILTON
THE FOUNDER of Not Another Salon and winner of 2016 Most Wanted Best Salon Experience, Sophia explained how everything was built on a foundation of trust, and that while that opened her up to potential hurt, she was ready for it. Two of her golden rules? To look after her own mental health (because if you don’t, there’s a trickledown effect on your staff) and to educate herself through reading and YouTube videos.
“STOP TRYING TO BE FUCKING FAMOUS. MAKE SURE THEY’RE GOOD AT A JOB FIRST AND THE REST FOLLOWS” KY WILSON
FOUNDER OF the The Social and 2016 It List Entrepreneur, Ky used his empty column time cutting people’s hair on the streets, so it’s no surprise he eschews complacency. His two salons – in revamped buildings in London and the Lake District – highlighted that there’s no longer just one right way to run a salon. In London, he roped friends into helping him design something different, such as custom-made mirrors he now retails to clients.
STAGE
Salon Smart 2017 was a cocktail of inspiration and knowledge, ranging from the innovative and unique to the experienced and practical. We couldn’t get enough!
“WE’VE TRIED TO BUILD A BRAND, NOT A PERSON” MARK WOOLLEY
WITH SIX SALONS, a studio, education and products, 2016 Most Wanted Business Thinker Mark showed how he has taken inspiration from brands such as Soho House and Virgin for his 10-year-old brand, Electric. With a new Electric Hub being built to house his HQ, lab, a studio and education, and with a new salon and academy set to launch in Asia this summer, Mark still has plenty of buzz powering his brand and team.
“IF YOU DIVERSIFY TOO MUCH YOU CAN LOSE YOUR WAY. INSTEAD BE THE BEST AT WHAT YOU’RE GOOD AT” STEVE ROWBOTTOM
WITH 10 SALONS in Yorkshire and a stunning training academy, Westrow’s co-owner Steve puts his company’s success down squarely to the focus on education. He’s inspired by his Vidal Sassoon background, and has helped create an academy where parents, colleges, brands and other salons are more than happy to send their youngsters, with an astonishing 98 per cent completion rate.
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#SalonSmart17
“I WANT TO CHANGE CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR. THE CLIENT ISN’T DRIVEN BY MONEY BUT BY EXPERIENCE” MATTHEW SOCKALINGUM
OWNER OF the salon chain, Matthew Luke Professional, Matthew opened with the insight that if 100 women were given £100 each to spend on beauty, they would choose make-up first and hair last. One way he has tried to change how clients spend in the salon is introduce the Blow Dry Pass (winner of the 2016 Most Wanted Award for Innovation), which sees clients commit to £40 a month for unlimited blow-drys. It increases retail and is regular income.
STARS
MOVE WITH THE TIMES
THE MANAGING DIRECTOR of Salon Success, Simon Tickler started the morning with everyone on their feet doing a little tai chi (and in the process patting everyone on the back!). “As the owners of your businesses, you probably don’t get told enough that you’re a genius leader, you need to congratulate yourself!” he said. But Simon also stressed that salons needed to be committed to what they do differently, and do it better. Monica Teodoro, general manager of L’Oréal Professionnel, provided some fascinating insights into changing consumer behaviours. “There are 34 billion selfies a year, making clients more aware and more discerning than ever,” she said. The decline in salon visits is mainly down to a fall in the 45+ age group of women and Monica argued these are your most valuable clients.
THE LAW AND YOU!
“WE’RE HUMAN BEINGS, NOT HUMAN DOINGS” TOBY DICKER
TURNING THE SPOTLIGHT onto retention, The Chapel’s Toby joked how he was making himself gradually unemployed by putting key tasks in the hands of his trusted staff, helping focus on employees’ creativity and satisfaction to encourage loyalty. The Chapel charges by time rather than service, meaning that staff can earn just as much seeing fewer people but for longer appointments, staying with them from consultation through to finish. It means better client as well as staff retention.
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IT’S CLEAR MANY are baffled by the National Minimum Wage (NMW) rules and regulations, and the NHF’s legal helpline expert, Laura Chalkley, was on hand to clarify. She warned against using tips to top up wages to hit the NMW, and against making deductions that would take wages below NMW. An astonishing 10 per cent of HMRC’s Named and Shamed list of employers failing to pay correctly were salons. She urged attendees to get back, check rates and agreements, and talk to HMRC first if you spot an issue – report the fault and make the assurance that you’re putting it right, otherwise you risk employees reporting you and facing subsequent fines.
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CHARLES
Celebrating three decades in business, hairdressing legend Charles Worthington MBE took us on an incredible trip down memory lane at Salon Smart
HAIRDRESSING WAS NEVER the plan. Young Charles would make his way over from his home city of York to the bright lights to Leeds, modelling on occasion for a young Tim Hartley of Vidal Sassoon, but the plan was architecture. But there was so much maths and all his hairdresser friends seemed to be having so much fun, had so much passion… And so Charles Worthington changed paths, starting at London’s Robert Fielding before moving to Stage Door, where he was one of the first stylists to start combining salon work with session styling for London Fashion Week, thanks to client Betty Jackson. Within a couple of years, Charles and partner Allan Peters set out to find the perfect location for Charles’s first salon – an old fish shop in Fitzrovia that had to be gutted to eliminate the pong! They had just £9,000 to make it work, and so embraced a minimal aesthetic. “You always want a wow factor when you walk in,” says Charles. “I would get up at 4am Monday and go to New Covent Garden Market to buy flowers and do the arrangements myself. We were serving
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trays with fresh biscuits and cafetiere coffee, which was unusual – back then you were lucky to get a mug of instant!” Two more London salons followed, as did the iconic product line with its elliptical bottles (a result of Charles doodling on a pad while thinking there was a gap in the haircare market), which at launch sold 10 times more than Boots had forecast. Then he opened the incredible New York salon to help push his product line in the US: “It doesn’t work if you just dip your toe into the US – they want to see you there,” he explains. “We were in THAT moment – the Sex and the City girls, Madonna, Britney.” He even won over American Vogue editor Anna Wintour in the process, and got a double page spread in the issue and an invitation to the Met Ball, where he was serenaded by Diana Ross! Academy Awards, Golden Globes and Bafta styling followed. Charles and the team would set up a Charles Worthington pamper zone in the Hollywood Hills or at The Savoy to style the stars. There are terrific tales of Cybill Shepherd and a roll bag of diamonds; a Thierry Mugler dress
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#SalonSmart17
IN CHARGE insured for £1m, but perhaps the most jaw dropping is his first meeting with Sharon Stone. “My assistant and I went to her suite at The Savoy, and she was just flawless, and so funny and clever. She didn’t mind what I did, and didn’t even look in the mirror. I was admiring her red Dior dress hanging on the back of the door, and mentioned how tiny it was.” ‘Darling, I’m ripped’, was Sharon’s response, at which point the Hollywood star dropped her robe to reveal her perfectly sculpted (and utterly naked) body! All this success he puts down to tenacity, doggedly getting his name out there to editors and TV producers, with Allan repeatedly calling the offices of Vogue and The Clothes Show, undeterred when the repeated reply would be “Charles who?”. His lucky break came when one of these calls chimed perfectly with The Clothes Show needing a hairstylist at the last minute and a TV career was born. As ever, the salon brand is synonymous with amazing service and beautiful hair, which Charles puts down to his twin track training that sees communications up there alongside the craft of hair. “The team are all-rounders, and the clients really enjoy going through the whole journey with one person,” he says. “It’s all about giving value for
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money, attention to detail.” This training and investment in people also means staff know there are opportunities ahead, and it entices them to stay for longer. It’s no wonder Charles was honoured with an MBE by the Queen. He’s very possibly the nicest gentleman in hairdressing, a characteristic that he says is an important one. “Be nice to people along the way – you never know who you’ll meet again,” he smiles.
CHARLES IN A FLASH GREATEST BUSINESS CHALLENGE? “Setting up that first salon” MOST IMPORTANT LESSON? “Live in the moment and enjoy the journey” A PIECE OF ADVICE? “Always remember the client is king, and don’t take anyone for granted”
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MacG regor Salon , Edin burgh
Backwash area before ...
... and after
Styling station before ...
... and after
REFRESH. RE-EXCITE. RE-CONNECT.
SALON EMOTION WILL RE-ENCHANT YOUR CLIENT’S EMOTIONAL JOURNEY THROUGH YOUR SALON WITH RESEARCH SHOWING that the number of salon business. The challenge is you need to engage women visiting a salon dropped from 14 million in them. Help is at hand. L’Oréal Professionnel is dedicated 2015 to 13.3 million last year,* it could be a good time to helping salons futureproof their business with the to re-dynamise your salon. Salon Emotion concept. Now, more than ever, it’s important to protect your This unique consultancy programme – designed to current clientele – and to look to the future, too. support salon staff and improve the client experience – Women aged 45+ have traditionally been our industry’s has already enjoyed huge success in salons throughout most faithful (not to mention valuable) customers, yet Europe, and could help you to grow your business by up since 2010 their annual visits to the salon have dropped to 15 per cent. from an average of 6.6 to 5.8. Salon Emotion identifies seven key touch points during Think about it: they’re worried about the signs of a consumer’s journey through the salon, helping salon ageing, including so-called ‘helmet head’ hair. As your owners and their teams understand what their clients most important current customer, you need to reassure think of the service they offer. them on how you can help with their future hair Then, through a combination of training and physical colour journey. refurbishment, whether that’s a simple re-decoration Women aged 17 to 30 – dubbed the Transformists – are or a complete refit in collaboration with L’Oréal driven by trends, and need to be engaged in new and Professionnel and a team of experts, your salon can exciting ways. The least likely age group to visit a salon, be transformed and your client’s emotional response they have to be convinced of the kind of results that can and experience reinvented. only be achieved through professional techniques. Salons who’ve signed up have seen a significant Finally, women aged 30 to 45 are so busy nowadays, increase in retail sales (up to 30 per cent in some they can feel they simply don’t have time to go the salon. cases) and in technical services, especially colour. But as they appreciate the difference a salon result can With promising results – more satisfied customers, a give and have money to spend, these women actually committed team and increased profits – isn’t it time you provide your biggest opportunity to grow your overall discovered Salon Emotion yourself?
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JANET NICOL, MACGREGOR SALON, EDINBURGH. REFIT: JULY 2016
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL Panel FY201 5
“MY NEW SALON IS MY DREAM COME TRUE”
*Sourc e: Kan tar Wo rld
MacG regor Salon , Edin burgh
Ken P icton, Cardif f
KEN PICTON, KEN PICTON SALON, CARDIFF BAY. REFIT: APRIL 2016
Ken P icton, Cardif f
“SALON EMOTION IS WHAT ALL SALONS SHOULD STRIVE FOR. IT HAS CERTAINLY HELPED MY BUSINESS MOVE FORWARD”
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Futureproof your business with Salon Emotion. Contact salonemotion@loreal.com to find out more CREATIVE HEAD
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LET’S WORKSHOP IT! ACT LIKE THE EXPERT YOU ARE
GAVIN HOARE, salon manager at Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa (which last year enjoyed a turnover of £5.5 million), looked at why customers leave and how to make sure they stay with you. He revealed that 78 per cent of clients who leave make that choice because they perceive an attitude of indifference in the service they receive within the salon. This clearly needs to change. The way to do this is through understanding and meeting their needs, Gavin argued. From making clients feel truly welcome to giving them a sense of indulgence and following up their appointments, offering a professional service and professional advice can make all the difference.
TURN UP THE VOLUME
THIS INTERACTIVE session with the Paul Mitchell retail team looked at maximising productivity in relation to stock, communication and merchandising. Led by (pictured above, from left to right): Salon Success business development manager John Hurine, business consultant Susan Nicol and regional sales manager Nickey Televantou, the workshop was designed to challenge the audience to make back in sales what they spent on their Salon Smart ticket and they walked away feeling satisfied as the team set out the goals they need to reach to make this happen (never forget that stock = profit!).
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FOOD FOR THOUGHT
EVERY HARD-WORKING business head needs time to refuel, and at Salon Smart’s Working Lunch guests had the opportunity to fuel their bodies and their minds with a perfect combination of refreshments and business-building inspiration! There was education and coaching from 3•6•5; on-trend colour from Kenra Professional (we love Guy Tang’s Metallics!); digital design and marketing ideas thanks to Salon Guru and lots of technology updates to streamline your salon and give you the control you need with Salon iQ and Treatwell. Want some new ideas to add to your salon’s choice of services and boost that backwash experience? Guests could check out New CID Cosmetics, Remi Cachet, High Definition and New Era (those Ecoheads and HeadBeds for the backwash are genius!). There was brilliant retail to help boost that bill (and illustrate that you’re an expert in your field) with ColorProof, Paul Mitchell, Dafni straightening brushes, Oway and Viviscal Professional, while L’Oréal Professionnel had the client journey all mapped out. You could be sure this lunch was not for wimps.
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20/04/2017 14:35
#SalonSmart17
RUN VT! SIT BACK AND SOAK UP T HE HIGHLIGH T S – VISIT CREATIVE HEADMAG .COM/ SALONSM ART
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SOMETHING TO TALK ABOUT
Our Salon Smart stars showered us with wise words and savvy snippets – here’s just a taste... “THIS IS A CALL TO ARMS – THE AIM OF SALON SMART IS TO IDENTIFY WAYS TO FUTURE PROOF YOUR BUSINESS”
CATHERINE HANDCOCK, CREATIVE HEAD
“SELF-EMPLOYMENT IS A LOSS OF CONTROL FOR SALON OWNERS. YOUR BUSINESS IS IN SOMEBODY ELSE’S HANDS”
“95 PER CENT OF WOMEN WOULD LIKE MORE ADVICE FROM THEIR STYLIST – THINK ABOUT YOUR CONSULTATION” KEN WEST, 3•6•5
I LIVE BY THE SAYING I BORROWED FROM THE BAND WHILE SHE SLEEPS: ‘IF OPPORTUNITY DOESN’T KNOCK, BUILD A DOOR’
ALICE KIRBY, LOCKHART MEYER SALON MARKETING
KY WILSON, THE SOCIAL
“YOU’VE GOT TO HAVE MICHELIN STAR TRAINERS BEFORE WE CAN GET MICHELIN STAR STYLISTS”
“LOOK AT AA AS AN EXAMPLE – THE 12TH STEP IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. THAT IS THE STEP WHERE YOU HELP OTHERS”
LEE STAFFORD, LEE STAFFORD EDUCATION
“TAKE CARE OF RETENTION AND EVERYTHING ELSE TAKES CARE OF ITSELF” TOBY DICKER, THE CHAPEL
SOPHIA HILTON, NOT ANOTHER SALON
SEE YOU AT SALON SMART 2018! 25-26 MARCH
PARK PLAZA RIVERBANK HOTEL, LONDON Call to book tickets 01434 610944
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INDIVIDUAL AWARDS MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST
For a salon or session hairdresser demonstrating stand-out work in men’s hair Category sponsor
AWARD FOR INNOVATION
TEAM AWARDS BEST SALON TEAM For teamwork at its best
Rewarding an original hairdressing initiative that has proven successful, either for the salon business or the industry at large
Category sponsor
Category sponsor
BEST LOCAL SALON For a salon that best serves its local community
CREATIVE TALENT
HAIR TREND
For a creative director or senior stylist with exceptional artistic skill and commercial expertise
For the best on-trend image of the year
Category sponsor
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BEST SALON EXPERIENCE BUSINESS THINKER
SESSION STYLIST
Category sponsor
BY NOMINATION ONLY Category sponsor
For a salon owner or director who has built an outstanding salon business
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For the most exciting hairdresser working in fashion
BEST NEW SALON COLOUR EXPERT
For a colour director or senior colourist with exceptional technical skill and commercial expertise Category sponsor
HAIR ICON For the most inspirational hairdresser of 2017
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RIDE THE
WAVE
BEACH? POOL? FESTIVAL? NO MATTER WHAT YOUR CLIENTS ARE UP TO THIS SUMMER, MAKE SURE THEIR HAIR IS WAVED TO PERFECTION WITH THE CLOUD NINE CURLING WAND
THEY WANT BEACHY WAVES, they want relaxed waves, they want classic curls – clients like to change up their style frequently and you can adapt to their needs quickly and easily, thanks to the new curling wand by Cloud Nine. The new wand means you no longer have to carry around a variety of curling tools – Cloud Nine’s wand does it all! No matter where you are – backstage, in-salon or on a shoot,
this curling wand will create any and all kinds of curl, from pin curls to voluminous waves. The versatile wand features a 25mm super-smooth mineral barrel and an innovative temperature control – making it not only a soon-to-be stylist’s favourite but a must-have for clients as it’s incredibly easy to use and will help them create effortless waves just in time for their summer holidays.
“I now have the flexibility to create everything from classic curls to structured beach waves with high shine and smoothness thanks to the mineral-infused barrel, while the temperature control button gives me the heat I need”
“It’s such a versatile product, it can assist you in creating classic pin curls or a marcel wave and it can create waves in seconds and is so easy to use”
STACEY MCCORMACK, MODELLO HAIR SALON AND SPA
ANGEL MONTAGUE-SAYERS, SESSION STYLIST AND CLOUD NINE AMBASSADOR
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TODAY, SHE WANTS A NATURAL COPPER… 72
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
TOMORROW, SHE FEELS LIKE A SEXY BRONZE WHATEVER SHE’S IN THE MOOD FOR, MAKE IT EASY FOR HER TO CHANGE HER HAIR COLOUR WITH COLORANCE BY GOLDWELL
FASHIONABLE, TREND-LED SHADES are what’s driving the upsurge in clients wishing to change their hair colour more frequently. Salons are in the perfect position to align themselves as the only place to go for not only beautiful colour, but colour that will last longer and is kinder to client’s hair. But this all hangs on the fact that you need
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a colour range you can rely on. One that provides perfect, beautiful colour every time. Offer your clients an easy step into beautiful on-trend colour results with Colorance by Goldwell. Turn over to discover how Colorance can help your salon business and meet client demand for fashion colour…
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WHICH ONE WILL SHE BE IN THE MOOD FOR?
SUMMER IS ALMOST upon us! We’re sure you’re on point when it comes to your client’s styling needs (braids at the ready, people), but what about their colour needs? Pastel colours are practically a summer must-have, as are lighter, brighter blondes so make sure you’re able to add these onto your service menu by the end of the month. Goldwell’s Colorance range of shades enables you to reach a versatile group of clients, from the fashionista to the classic beauty, while you can also tap into the need for speed by offering a quick glaze to an expressive fashion shade. Plus, some of the new Colorance pastels process in just five to 10 minutes and create beautiful, fashionable
pastel colour effects that show soft, gradual fading. The new, ready-to-use pastel shades include rose, mint, peach, lavender and indigo. Meanwhile, the new and improved Colorance lowlights create natural-looking blonde shades and add dimension to over-highlighted hair. And no matter what mood your client wants to express, Colorance gives her shiny, healthy looking hair. It does this by perfectly colouring and repairing in one step, while the pH-balanced formula with integrated IntraLipid effectively repairs the hair structure by regenerating up to 70 per cent lost lipids.
THE BENEFITS FOR YOUR CLIENT ARE: • A perfect colour result • Brilliant shine – up to 90 per cent more on virgin hair* • Up to 30 per cent softer and smoother hair feel on damaged hair** • Up to 35 per cent more gentleness when Topchic is colour balanced with Colorance*** • No ammonia odour
Create the colours your clients can’t wait to show off this summer with Colorance by Goldwell. To find out more, call 01323 432100, visit goldwell.co.uk or download the Goldwell app CREATIVE HEAD
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*When using Colorance standard or Cover Plus assortment. **When using Colorance standard, compared with bleached hair. ***Compared with balancing with alkaline permanent hair colour.
SOFT COLOURS – STRONG STATEMENTS. MEET THE DEMAND FOR HIGH-FASHION SHADES AS SUMMER APPROACHES AND BOOST YOUR COLOUR BUSINESS AT THE SAME TIME WITH COLORANCE BY GOLDWELL
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HEAVEN is a place on
EARTH...
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...AND IT’S LOCATED RIGHT IN THE HEART OF EAST LONDON. SOPHIA HILTON’S NOT ANOTHER SALON IS THE 2016 MOST WANTED SALON EXPERIENCE WINNER. MEET THE YELLOW-HAIRED COLOUR QUEEN AND HER DREAM TEAM EVERY DAY, TOURISTS and locals line the streets of Brick Lane, peering through the windows for a glimpse into the colourful world created by Sophia Hilton. If they want to, they’re welcome to pop inside and take some pictures – the salon assistants are more than happy to show people around, with no strings attached. You might think it’s unusual for a salon to be offering guided tours – but this is Not Another Salon, and things are done a little differently here. Not Another Salon is making a name for itself thanks to its bright colours, loud music and No Judgement policy, but the ethos behind it comes from much humbler beginnings. “I grew up living above my mum’s salon, which was passed down from my nan,” Sophia remembers. “It was a simple, four-station village salon with two hood dryers and lots of gossip. After moving to London, I experienced the high-end city professionalism that salons offer, but my heart was back in that small, warm salon where I felt safe.” Since she opened her own salon late in 2015, Sophia has prided herself on making clients feel as comfortable and happy as possible, no matter who they are. “I realised that there was a huge opening for a salon to market itself on non-intimidation. I created Not Another Salon with its No Judgment policy and publicised the fact that everyone is welcome no matter what their style or walk of life.
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Our No Judgment policy is not just lip service – it’s real. We add to the experience by taking away intimidation.” And this happy-go-lucky vibe is reflected in the extraordinary décor, courtesy of Monk Stevens, who worked on the set of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, and Dominic Chinea. It’s bright, positive and there’s always something to look at. “I make sure the salon constantly changes. This makes for an incredibly exciting experience for clients as each time they come they see something new,” explains Sophia. “Behind the floor-to-ceiling colour shelves is a secret room! Our ’70s psychedelic colour development room has everything you need, from Game Boys to Play-Doh and a random book on serial killers. There’s cross-stitch, Connect 4 and even pom-pom making. It’s been named ‘happiness in a box’ by the clients, which makes me feel all fuzzy inside.” And the fun doesn’t stop there – clients who expect refreshment choice to be limited to ‘black or white coffee’ will be in awe of the treats at Not Another Salon. For a start, there are 32 types of tea on the menu. There’s even a selection of builder’s tea where the client can specifically choose between Tetley, Yorkshire and PG Tips. Why? “Because it’s comforting to have your home favourites – and it makes our clients laugh!” explains Sophia. You can also take a step back in time with the Taste From Your Childhood section of the menu, which includes Coke floats and pink lemonade. And you’ll never ever find a biscuit wrapped-up in cellophane – instead clients are invited to dig in to a jam-packed box full of Wagon Wheels, Party Rings and Jammie Dodgers. But although the quirky interiors and fabulous snacks are important, the hair still comes first. Sophia’s philosophy combines the growing interest in colour with luxury service. “My innovation is simple – to serve clients who want creative hair that also looks professional and
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polished. They can wear emerald green in the workplace if the finish is elegant and polished. Where once these colours marked defiance, they now speak confidence.” Thanks to these stunning creations, clients are clamouring to get a piece of the Not Another Salon action, from every corner of the globe. “Our Instagram following is now past 130k – we are the second most followed salon in the UK. We take our posts very seriously and use it as a tool to constantly inspire and educate our clients. I believe my dedication to the Not Another Salon account has given a platform for the clients to feel a continued connection to our salon that has led to fantastic client care and most importantly loyalty.” So where next? It’s no surprise that Sophia took to the stage to accept the Most Wanted Best Salon Experience 2016 Award. “Considering we are not a ‘fancy salon’ it was really cool to win Best Salon Experience,” she says. But it wasn’t just the boss who was in the limelight – her whole team was up there to accept the trophy, illustrating that Sophia’s vision of acceptance and individuality extends
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to her staff too. “They are easy to love and that’s because they feel secure and supported. If a person feels they can’t make mistakes and their creativity is stifled then they never come out of their comfort zone. Personal and creative growth comes from knowing it’s okay to try because there is a net to catch you.” And with every member of Not Another Salon’s staff fully booked three months in advance and Not Another Academy’s training courses going global, Sophia finally has time to reflect on where her brand is going next. “I don’t want a machine. What’s most important to me is the positive impact I can make in the industry. Who can I develop, what can I help with – the best things in life are not necessarily tangible.”
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L VE TO COLOUR?
WHETHER YOU LOVE BALAYAGE, THINK FOILS ARE IRREPLACEABLE OR BELIEVE IT’S ALL ABOUT BESPOKE HUES, MAKE SURE YOU’RE ALWAYS IN THE KNOW WITH WELLA EDUCATION Can’t get enough of colour and its infinite possibilities? Colour is at the core of what Wella does and, like you, it knows you need constant training and the latest trend knowledge to stay ahead. Enter Wella’s world of colour and discover a variety of courses that will take your knowledge to the next level and enable you to recreate the most up-to-date trends while helping you to grow the number of services in your salon.
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
OUR FAVOURITE ONE-DAY COLOUR COURSES FROM WELLA EDUCATION CREATIVE TECHNIQUES
For stylists who are competent with highlighting and who wish to develop creative colour skills.
WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
l The latest trends in fashion and up-to-date creative techniques.
HOW TO BOOK ld
CLASSIC FOILING
For stylists with a basic working knowledge of colour theory.
or Call the Wella W 0 02 on nd Lo io ud St ella Studio 3650 4700 or W ella Pop W d an r Mancheste burgh Up Studio Edin 0161 834 2645
WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
l The fundamental skills required for successful foiling. l Increasing your confidence in the placement of foil or colour wrap methods. l Essential consultation skills to ensure the correct client hair diagnosis.
l Increase the colour services you offer in the salon by learning advanced techniques. l Improve your client consultations and client retention.
CREATIVE FREEHAND
For hairdressers who want to develop their expertise in freehand colour application in order to create bespoke colour services in the salon.
WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
l A variety of freehand colouring methods, correct colour choice and placement. l How to tailor your colour service and complement your client’s face shape.
GREYS
CREATIVE MIXTURES
WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
WHAT YOU’LL LEARN
l Colour equations to create a unique grey for every client.
l How to advertise your skills in the salon to grow your business.
For hairdressers who want to develop their expertise in creating a truly bespoke colour service, celebrating the beauty of grey hair. l How to overcome barriers to grey.
l You will also explore a contemporary, fashion-focused approach to grey and white hair.
For stylists who are competent with Creative Colour techniques and wish to develop their skills in mixtures and palettes. l You’ll discover the Wella Professionals trend palettes.
l New mixtures to personalise colour.
#STYLISTSDOITBETTER
Stylists, you can work your way around a colour chart with your eyes closed and you’re armed with inspiration, but is your talent being shouted about? You need to get on board Wella Professionals’ latest advertising campaign #StylistsDoItBetter. Designed to champion salon superstars, it’s the perfect platform to show off your skills and give clients and potential new clients a sneak peek at your work. To get involved, all you need to do is take a selfie with your client, tag #StylistsDoItBetter and post it on social media. You can be as creative as you like; before and after pics, Instagram stories of the consultation, flagging up colours and products… before you know it, you’ll have earned yourself new bookings and followers! GET INVOLVED! Follow @wellahair on Instagram, take a selfie with your client, tag #StylistsDoItBetter and upload to social media.
To find out more about Wella Education, visit wella.co.uk/education or contact your nearest Wella Studio CREATIVE HEAD
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MATCH FIT
IN THIS LATEST COLLECTION, BED HEAD BY TIGI FIGHTS FRIZZ AND GIVES US A RINGSIDE VIEW OF THE DIFFERENT SHAPES, SIZES AND SHEER BEAUTY OF COILS AND CURLS
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COILS
1. Prep with BEDHEAD BY TIGI SCREW IT JELLY OIL and comb through for an even application. 2. Style with BEDHEAD BY TIGI ON THE REBOUND. Split and twist sections of hair to enhance natural shape and coil and clip to the head. 3. Diffuse and separate out coils. 4. Finish the look with BEDHEAD BY TIGI GET TWISTED. CREATIVE HEAD
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CURLS
1. Section hair and prep with BEDHEAD BY TIGI ON THE REBOUND. 2. Style by twisting smal ler sections around finger to define curl, working upwards fro m the nape. 3. Diffuse hair. Separate curls and blast to create volume. 4. Finish with BEDHEAD BY TIGI GET TWISTED. 84
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WAVES
D BY TIGI 1. Style hair with BEDHEA EAM, FOXY CURLS CONTOUR CR combing through for thorough application. te shape.
2. Push in waves to crea 3. Diffuse hair and blast for volume.
the roots
TIGI GET 4. Finish with BEDHEAD BY e. TWISTED to lock in shap CREATIVE HEAD
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AND THE WINNER IS… WHEN IT COMES TO FIGHTING FRIZZ, NO ONE DOES IT BETTER THAN BED HEAD BY TIGI’S NEW WAVE AND CURL RANGE While more and more clients are embracing their natural texture and curls, they still want their hair to look shiny, frizz-free and have definition. The world’s number one professional styling brand, Bed Head by TIGI recognises this, which is why it’s created a new arsenal of weapons so that you’re armed with everything you need to create gorgeous curls and defined waves.
NEW! CALMA SUTRA Cleansing Conditioner for Waves and Curls
This moisturising, sulphate-free, no-foam formulation cleanses, conditions and detangles in one wash. Hair is left soft, shiny and ready to style.
NEW! SCREW IT Curl Hydrating Jelly Oil This transformative jelly oil is a leave-in ‘styling treat’ to help add intense moisture and shine to curls. Use it on its own or cocktail with your favourite curl styler for an extra dose of moisture and shine.
NEW AND IMPROVED! FOXY CURLS Contour Cream
NEW! Get Twisted Anti-Frizz Finishing Spray
Fight frizz with this contour cream. The updated formula now includes TIGI’s latest curl technology to provide waves and curls with improved definition.
This spray locks in waves and curls. It’s lightweight and fast-drying and helps protect from frizz while providing long-lasting shape without adding weight.
HELP STYLES LIVE TO FIGHT ANOTHER DAY WITH THE NEW BED HEAD BY TIGI WAVE AND CURL RANGE. CALL 0844 844 0944 OR VISIT BEDHEAD.COM. FOLLOW @BEDHEADBYTIGI AND #YOURHAIRYOURWAY ON INSTAGRAM, FACEBOOK AND SNAPCHAT
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HAIR Anthony Mascolo, Akos Bodi, Philip Downing. MAKE-UP Amy Barrington. PHOTOGRAPHY Anthony Mascolo and Alex Barron-Hough
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FRESH PERSPECTIVE
WITH CONTRASTING TEXTURES AND LIVED-IN PASTELS, MINT FROM JAMIE RICHARDS ILLUSTRATES A FRESH APPROACH TO CURRENT HAIR MOVEMENTS, WITH HAIR THROWN INTO PLACE IN A FUSION OF HIGH FASHION EDITORIAL AND STREET-STYLE VIBES PHOTOGRAPHY BY MARC HAYDEN CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Jamie Richards. MAKE-UP Kristiana Zaula and Tamara Tott. ASSISTANTS Kym Richards and Liberty Barnham. PRODUCTS Wella Professionals
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What we do in the
shadows
In Graphite, KAM Hair & Body Spa’s Karen Thomson focuses on precision, shape, texture and a balance between the dark and the light PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Karen Thomson, KAM Hair & Body Spa. MAKE- UP Maddie Austin. STYLING Clare Frith
Scene THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
BACKSTAGE
access
TRAVELLING AROUND AN incredible nine UK cities, the L’Oréal Professionnel Backstage Tour is an amazing celebration of creativity and colour, discovering those regional talents who will compete at the L’Oréal Colour Trophy 2017 Grand Final in June at Battersea Evolution in London. Going head to head over not only the main prize, but also the Men’s Image Award and the STAR Award, the contestants and their supporters ensured the atmosphere was electric on every stop of the tour (we caught up with the Scottish, North Western, North-Eastern and Midlands heats). Judges including Most Wanted winner Sophia Hilton from Not Another Salon, Trevor Sorbie MBE and Headmasters’ Siobhan Jones had the tough task of selecting the grand finalists, who will join those also duking it out for the Afro Look Award, in association Mizani. Will it be a pretty pastel taking home the top L’Oréal Colour Trophy prize this year, or a bold and beautiful brunette perhaps? We can’t wait to find out…
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Richard Phillipart
MAN Fashionable
BABYLISS PRO’S FIRST-EVER Session to Salon education event saw Richard Phillipart take to the stage in Manchester to share insight and techniques from his work backstage at Fashion Week shows in London, Paris, Milan and New York. As a salon owner himself, Richard also explained how catwalk looks can be commercialised in the salon, especially for brides and bridesmaids. “The more clients see things in magazines, the more they’ll be willing to try them. You just need to spur them on!” he said. Working with BaByliss PRO electricals, Richard shared tips on tongs: “Always start at the root, and let the hair feed around the tong to achieve a perfectly even curl,” and drying: “Blast-dry without a nozzle to get a matte finish,” before helping out at a hands-on product trial session after the show.
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IN THE
raw
THE MATRIX TEAM jetted off to the sunny island of Tenerife in the Canaries for its annual conference. The Hard Rock Hotel was the base for the three-day event and the conference began with an overview of the previous year’s success, and targets for the future. Then it was time to unveil the new RAW range, a luxurious collection of three premium shampoos and conditioners inspired by nature. Guests were treated to a poolside dinner to unwind and enjoy the gorgeous setting as the sun went down. The next day delegates gathered to learn about the “Hair Colour is the New Make-up” initiative, get to know the RAW range in more depth and the #LIVERAW challenge, which encourages salons to go green and get healthy. After taking a trip on a catamaran to watch whales, it was time to suit up for the James Bond-themed gala dinner. Awards were handed out to celebrate Matrix artists, key team members and distributors before partying long into the night.
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The stage is set for @rawhairsalon s
@headroman ce all set for Salon Smart @lis aha uck (wit h prop s from @sa lons uccessu k) won a bott le of bub bles for her #SalonSm art17 self ie!
In the
@mattsockalin gu m mea sures up nicely
frame
@cwhis kersha ir loves a goodie bag!
Salon Smart is a very social affair – here are a few of our favourite #SalonSmart17 snaps from this year’s sell out event SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
@barrie ste ph en an d pa ls are lit up wit h ideas!
@sophierose993 enjoying some Salon Smart freebies!
Oh what a night! Wit h @aj.t v and frie nds Brain sto rm ing wit h @s pirith airco 102
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Sophia Hilton at the Meet and Mix, with @ta mmymwn
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DETANGLE. STYLE. MAINTAIN. AN ELITE LINE OF PROFESSIONAL TOOLS.
A truly elite line of hair brushes for the professional stylist. Innovative in both appearance and performance, the EPIC™ line gives the stylist the best-in-class tools. EPIC™ isn’t just a name… it’s an acronym for the line’s key attributes: Elite, Professional, Inspired, Creative.
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