LET’S BOND ON BLONDE
Going blonde is exciting, but it can also lead to fears of hair damage. Take the worry away with the revamped Blonde Life range from JOICO, packed with bond-building power
Creative direction by Bruno Marc Giamattei. Hair by Sevda Durukan, Alberto Di Domenico, Daniel Spiller. Photography by Jamie Blanshard. Products by JOICOClients going lighter want the good life – and glowing from within is what standout blondes are about. Without the right products, blondes can look bleached out, tired, and dull – even in experienced hands.
Ensure your finish is tip-top and your shared bond over blonde is stronger than ever with Blonde Life from JOICO, a revitalised range with new additions to create stellar blondes that keep clients smiling and coming back for more. We’re talking full-scale bond-building support through the entire journey!
Packed with essential fatty acids including monoi and tamanu oils, the Blonde Life line-up improves colour results and nourishes hair as it lifts, ensuring lighter creations are show-stopping, never dull. Bond-building arginine – found in all Blonde Life lighteners and toners – pack a punch, building strength and vitality back into the hair, right in the chair.
BRIGHT NEW THINGS
Before a lightening service, colourists often worry about lift and damage, but that's all a thing of the past with the new Blonde Life Balayage Lightener. Expect up to seven levels of fast-acting lift, packed with bond-building technology. Kaolin clay creates the perfect canvas for expressive balayage and freehand techniques. There’s no annoying transfer during processing time either!
Any kind of lightening can use a little help to get that lift over the line and looking luscious. Blonde Life’s new Coconut Oil Developer works with all Blonde Life lighteners and toners to deliver soft and hydrated hair into your client’s hands. Hair looks smoother and feels silkier while application is easy via a mixable, creamy, and spreadable consistency. Nourishment is a built-in fact with tamanu and monoi oils.
The best-looking blondes are curated with a salon-only finish, and you’ll always get them right with Blonde Life’s Demi Gloss. These new seven demi-permanent liquid toners scale up on shine, dial down on dullness, and neutralise brassy tones in one easy step. That’s a toner, glazer, and glosser combined! Ammonia free, shades can be intermixed, allowing you to create a bonded blonde masterpiece that’s unique to each client.
GREAT THINGS, GREATER PACKAGES…
JOICO doesn’t just make blondes better; it’s helping the environment with new sustainable packaging that uses 100 per cent recycled fibre paperboard. Stylist ease has also been considered and improved with its current 1lb and 2lb Powder Lighteners made into easy-open, stackable canisters.
Package clients the blonde dream to take home with Blonde Life’s Brighten, Care & Protect range. Armed with Blonde Life Brightening Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque, they can fight brassiness, breakage, and brittleness at home with brighter and more toned blondes for up to eight weeks. Better blondes, better bonds, better business. Summer’s looking hotter already...
Form the bonds that matter with the refreshed Blonde Life range from JOICO, visit joico.eu
“I have the freedom to create blondes from subtle sun-kissed hues to full-head bleach and toned global applications, without compromising hair health. Clients’ hair is never brassy but always luminous and shiny.”
Daniel Spiller, Marc Antoni Group
Create your own customised Trimmer, Clipper or Foil Shaver.
With a choice of 10 colours and personalised engraving, you can customise your tools to suit your creativity, personality, and style.
JACK MEAD X vagaro
EDITOR’S LETTER
70 itit it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it it LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST LIST 50
JOIN US!
May is here, which means the MWIT23 deadline is looming!
We’re celebrating the business brilliance we witnessed at Salon Smart in this issue, as mental health, wellbeing and workplace culture came to the fore. As host, I love sharing the lessons learnt from our carefully selected line up of speakers, but I also relish getting stuck in with our audience. Many talked about how Salon Smart makes them appreciate that, when the chips are down, they are not alone. Want to get the lowdown on all the excellence that was shared from the stage? Turn to page 60… and you’ll also hear from some of our delegates, too! I was also lucky enough to sit down with our Most Wanted Independent Stylist (and soon-to-be Legend) Anna Cofone in her Hackney studio (page 40). She’s another prime example of that generosity and thought, keen to give back to an industry that has offered her so much. Speaking of Most Wanted, don’t forget, the clock is now ticking on those MWIT award entries. The deadline is 22 May – I cannot wait to see what business (and creative) brilliance YOU have to share, too!
Time to proofread your PDFs, play back your videos and double check everything’s in order before submitting your Most Wanted and It List entries by midnight on 22 May. And if you haven’t yet chosen your categories, turn to page 50 for full lists. Recently Salon Smart delivered an inspiring day of business advice and real-life stories, read about it on page 60. And calling all freelancers!
Amanda Nottage Editorial directorCreative HEAD’s virtual event, SELF/STYLED Sundays, will be streaming to a screen near you, on Sunday 4 June. Tune in from 10am to watch artists including Claire Chell for Überliss, Daisy Goord for Wella Professionals, and Abbey Jarrold for Indola, showcase powerful products and signature techniques.
creativeheadmag.com/events
LIVE THE BLONDE LIFE NEW & ENHANCED
Our complete lightening and brightening system is just for blondes and those who want to be lifted to new heights without sacrificing hair’s shine or condition. FOR ALL YOUR BLONDE SALON SERVICES.
WHAT’S INSIDE
OUR CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
DEPUTY EDITOR
ANNIE MAY BYRNE NOONAN
ART DIRECTOR
NICK JABBAL
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
DIGITAL DESIGNER
EVA VESTMANN
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANT AOIFE CONNELL
DIGITAL AND SOCIAL MEDIA EDITOR
KELSEY DRING
Soon-to-be Most Wanted Legend Anna Cofone talks about giving back to the industry
SALON SMART
From recruitment and education to wellbeing and workplace culture, see what the stars of the stage had to share
COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR
LAURA TUCKER
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS MANAGER
JENNY BROOKS
CREATIVE PARTNERSHIPS DIRECTOR
JOANNA ANDERSEN PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
ON THE COVER
Creative
by Bruno Marc Giamattei. Hair by Sevda Durukan, Alberto Di Domenico, Daniel Spiller. Photography by Jamie Blanshard. Products by JOICO.
ALL THE BENEFITS OF A BOND BUILDER ON THE GO
Uberliss has a range of retail products to help support that core care for clients. This revolutionary leave-in spray includes a powerhouse of healthy hair ingredients, including our game changing patented submicron technology.
• Patented Bond Technology
• Betaine
• Smoothing Ceramides
• Vitamin E
The Uberliss Bond Healing Spray strengthens, moisturises, and hydrates all hair types, offering heat protection, detangling and reinforcing bonds.
STRONG, HEALTHY HAIR IS JUST A SPRAY AWAY!
IN THE KNOW
A SELECTION OF
THE ESSENTIALS
Quarter of salon owners ‘considering closing down’
More than a quarter of salon owners are considering closing (28 per cent) or downsizing their salon (29 per cent) as they struggle with high bills and fewer client visits, according to a survey by Uswitch for Business.
Energy bills now make up 40 per cent of the average hair and beauty salon’s total business costs, according to data from the comparison site.
Two- fths of salon owners said they were anxious about the future, and 24 per cent were struggling to pay their energy costs, with one in ve having to ask family and friends for nancial help.
Uswitch for Business estimated that salons currently out of contract on their energy bills could be paying up to 50 per cent more than those on negotiated deals. Nearly a third (32 per cent) of salons have raised their prices in response to energy costs.
Salons also told of clients selecting cheaper treatments (40 per cent), leaving longer between appointments (35 per cent) and leaving lower tips (29 per cent).
Great Lengths unveils new Masters
THE GREAT LENGTHS Masters
2023 extensions experts have been revealed at the Great Lengths GLammies Awards. They are Hadley Yates (Hadley Yates Salon, London), Linda Thornton (Lynda T Hairdressing, Dublin), Jade Hobster (Hair Extensions by Jade, Nottingham), and Katie Hemming (Love Hair, Broadway).
SEE IT!
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto @vamuseum
Fashion has long been a source of inspiration and collaboration for hair stylists, and this high-pro le exhibition coming to London’s iconic V&A is bound to cause excitement. It’s dedicated to the work of French couturière, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, charting the evolution of her legendary design style and the establishment of the House of Chanel, across more than 200 looks. The show spans the opening of her rst millinery boutique in Paris in 1910 to her nal collection in 1971, showcasing accessories, perfumes and jewellery, alongside the historic clothes. From 16 September 2023 to 25 February 2024; Tickets from £16. vam.ac.uk/chanel
BOOK IT!
NOW, NEW, NEXT: TREND CUT AND COLOUR
POLISH UP YOUR cut and colour skills with a new advanced programme from Schwarzkopf Professional’s freshest ambassadors, Siobhan and Philipp Haug (pictured), founders of the Haug London Haus.
WHEN: 26 June
WHERE: Hunter Collective, London
BOOK: askacademy.co.uk
Kao showcase shares gems
JACK & THE WOLFE’S Jack Mead and Lydia Wolfe, and Casey Coleman from CHAIR Salons, hit Space Studios at Wapping in London to share a fast-paced presentation of stunning looks with more than 350 guests as part of a showcase from Kao Salon Division.
The first of four regional events in the UK, guests were privy to new launches such as Goldwell Topchic Zero and the revamped KERASILK, alongside trends from KMS Hair and experiences from Goldwell’s Color Atelier project, which champions professional colour services.
London salon tops colour savers
The Karine Jackson Sustainable Hair team has scooped the top prize at the Vish Waste Warrior Awards for a third year in a row. The competition that ranks the top UK salons and stylists on colour waste saving found the team had an average of just 21p-worth of colour left over per service, saving them thousands.
Individual stylists were celebrated too, as Simon Hall, style director and colour specialist at Karine Jackson, kept his crown as Stylist Waste Warrior. Beating his own record, he had a colour waste average that was 3p lower than last year. Runner up Lisa Hauck Salon in London’s Haverstock Hill produced just 39p of average waste in its four-person team.
#SKPCollective announced
The stylists that will make up the next #SKPCollective – Schwarzkopf Professional’s digital influencer scheme – are, pictured from left: Joe Taylor (Edward & Co, Brighouse), Ed Mascarenhas (Ed’s Hair, Bramhall), Kat Cartwright (Farah Naz Hair, Prestwich), Amy O’Sullivan (Hair by Amy O’Sullivan, Drogheda, Ireland), Chris Donohue, (Billi Currie, London), and Layla Relf (Base Hairdressing, Warrington). See more at creativeheadmag.com
Everybody’s talking about… the #MWIT23 deadline!
The murmurs around the 2023 Most Wanted and It List Awards are rising to a loud hum as the submission deadline of midnight on 22 May looms. The celebrated awards shine a light on inspirational salon and barber shop owners and employees, freelancers, session stylists, innovators and colourists, and has pared back its entry process this year, allowing for nominees to include more detail about the projects and career highlights they want to focus on. There’s also more scope for video submissions as well as written ones. It’s easier than ever to enter, via a simple upload form, so put yourself out there, have a go – or you’ll never know! Visit creativeheadmag.com/awards
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
CATCH-UP
Spotlight, a new digital competition from the Fellowship of British Hairdressing, is now open to nd future stars. The chosen will exhibit their work at Fellowship events.
Davines celebrated its 40th anniversary and the opening of its new UK House & Academy at an event at the brand’s Kings Cross HQ.
Fresha has nabbed the 59th spot on the Top 100 Global Marketplaces list from venture capital rm Andreessen Horowitz.
House of Sassoon is coming to London’s Greek Street. It will be a combined salon/ academy/studio space, members club and ambassador programme.
The NHBF’s director of quality and standards, Caroline Larissey, has been named on the Powerlist which celebrates inspirational women in Trade Associations.
COVER UP FOR A BRIGHTER FUTURE
Insurance isn’t the most glamorous of subjects, but like all the services the NHBF provides it’s essential for the safe running of your business – protecting you, your staff and your clients. It’s also a legal requirement, so despite rising costs this is one area that you can’t cut back on. Think about it: would your business survive nancially if a client took you to court, even if you won?
Public liability insurance will protect you if a member of the public is injured or has their
Salons are dominated by the patter of stylists’ feet, leaving many feeling sore and aching after a long day. These natural healing patches from Ross J. Barr help a variety of conditions from general in ammation and muscular skeletal issues to period pain. Small and discreet, it can be placed under clothes and worn for up to six hours, letting you get on with your day, each packet contains ve patches. RRP £15. rossbarr.com
property damaged at your hair or beauty salon or barber shop and/or as a result of your business activities.
Don’t forget that injury includes both physical harm and emotional stress, as well as trips, spills and accidents caused by salon equipment. You may also be faced with an additional claim for emotional trauma.
It’s important to understand that treatment liability cover is not included in most public liability insurance policies, so you need to make sure that you are covered for this; otherwise you could end up paying out of your own pocket.
The NHBF has spent the past year researching the market to ensure that member salons have access to the insurance best suited to our industry’s speci c needs, ensuring you receive comprehensive cover at a competitive price.
It has partnered with Jensten Insurance Brokers to offer specialist public liability insurance for salons and barber shops. Accidents will happen and you need reliable and effective protection if they happen to you. It’s just one of the many services the NHBF provides to look after your business while you look after your clients.
@nhbfsocial
To find out more information and how to join the NHBF, call 01234 831 965 or visit nhbf.co.uk
Great things come in compact packages with OSiS by Schwarzkopf Professional. Its select yet intuitive collection of styling products are gender-inclusive and for all hair textures, styles and expressions.
RRP from £12.90 schwarzkopfpro.com
Metal Detox Professional High Protection Cream has a lightweight texture and is easily absorbed, shielding against UV, oxidation, brushing and heat up to 230°C. It also delivers 72 hours of hydration while giving clients long-lasting control and de nition.
RRP £28
lorealpartnershop.com/uk
For clients keen to try OLAPLEX, the DISCOVERY KIT is packed with minitreats – just in time for the summer! You can get it via wholesalers including Xpert Professional, which has been appointed distributor in Scotland and the south-east of England.
RRP £64
xpertprofessional.co.uk uk.olaplex.com
Do you have colour clients begging to be a pearl girl this summer? No problem, there are ve new pearl shades from Dia Light by L’Oréal Professional Paris, and a French Balayage Pearl technique to boost your skills.
In-salon service
lorealpartnershop.com/uk
Part of the Serene Scalp family from Oribe, the Oil Control Collection has been developed to extend time between washes by reducing excess oil and sebum on those with oily scalps. We love the Oil Control Shampoo and Dry Shampoo Powder.
RRP from £45 oribe.com
Today’s clients want rituals and experiences. Give them that yearned-for wellbeing boost with Eksperience, a-packed-with-minerals range from Revlon Professional that nourishes scalps, heads and hearts.
In-salon
service;
revlonproshop.com
RRP from £22.80
Repair hair in a ash with the new Ultimate Repair range from Wella Professionals, which rebuilds bonds and offers 99 per less breakage and hair that’s 12-times smoother! The hero is the Miracle Hair Rescue Leave-in Mist, which works in just 90 seconds.
RRP from £22 uk.wella.professionalstore.com
Harness the lauded power of bond building – but take it to the lashes this time with LASHBOND Building Serum from OLAPLEX. Think stronger, thicker, and healthier lashes and a hard stop to shedding, a brilliant additional revenue idea.
RRP £64 salon-services.com astonand ncher.co.uk
STOCK IT!
LAUNCHES AND INNOVATIONS READY TO HIT YOUR SALON SHELVES
The limited-edition ghd Sunsthetic collection for S/S23 takes inspiration from beautiful sunsets fused with personal style, encouraging you to channel the mood of the golden hour. Think a palette of contemporary metallics: bold bronze, sunkissed gold, re ned rose and tonal taupe.
RRP from £169 ghdhair.com
Colour shouldn’t just cover; it should revitalise too, and Redken’s new Color Gels Oils range promises super-duper hair rejuvenation, better condition, built-in shine and 100 per cent grey coverage.
In-salon service
redken.co.uk
ALFAPARF Milano Professional is ramping up its commitment to sustainability by revamping the packaging and ensuring vegan and biodegradable formulas for its beloved Semi Di Lino range. It’s starting with Semi Di Lino Reconstruction, designed to strengthen the hair bre.
RRP from £14.50
xpertprofessional.co.uk
Welcome the newness with the Blonde Life collection from JOICO. There’s the new soft clay formula Balayage Lightener, Blonde Life Demi Gloss shades for luminous glazes and Coconut Oil Developers for soft, hydrated hair, alongside more sustainable packaging.
In-salon service
joico.eu
COLOUR VISION
Guess what’s back? It’s Wella TrendVision Award!
Open to salon-based stylists and independents across the UK and Ireland, Wella TrendVision Award is back and better than ever for 2023! Categories are open for entry and have received a shake-up, including the new Colour Visionary and Craft Visionary categories. Editorial Look has been updated, while up-and-coming talent will get a look-in via the student category XPOSURE Creative Colour. Stylists have until 9 June to submit their entries. Successful entrants will go straight through to the UK & Ireland Final, which takes place on 25 September at iconic London venue, Magazine. All categories will be represented and finalists will get the chance to show off their skills in a thrilling live setting. The clock is ticking, where’s your application?
To find out more about the Wella TrendVision Award, visit wella.co.uk/trendvision
THE COLOUR CLINIC IS OPEN…
“BlondorPlex Cream Toners are what we’ve been waiting for! With the use of a bottle applicator it is quick to apply, and the development time is only five minutes. In the salon it is an excellent and express way of creating an expensive, glossy-looking blonde. There are four beautiful shades and a booster for powerful neutralisation. When a client is in need of a quick refresh, this is an ideal product to use to just freshen up blondes and remove any unwanted warm tones, making it a great in-between service.”
Wella Professionals has much to shout about this summer; there’s a toning revolution and applications are open for its agenda-setting hairdressing competition...Hair by Robert Eaton
Every issue we speak to a Wella Professionals colour expert about a key challenge and how to overcome it. James Earnshaw, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland digital colour ambassador (@jhair_stylist) explains how you can offer fast refreshes in the salon with BlondorPlex
WHY I’M WELLA
My long-standing love affair with Wella Professionals began early in my career. I was immediately impressed by the quality and effectiveness of its products, and in a short space of time, I was completely converted. My trust in Wella Professionals has only grown stronger and stronger over the years.
“I really love the product innovation and education. It’s always developing and re ning its products to meet the evolving needs of our industry, and the education is top class! Speak to any member of the Wella family and the standard of education and support will be top of the list.
“I’m honoured that every day I get to be a part of the Wella family by educating, mentoring and guiding hairdressers from all around the world. I choose Wella because I believe it’s the greatest professional hair colour and care brand in the world.”
I love the new BlondorPlex Cream Toners because it is a compact shade range and works so fast. Being able to tone in just ve minutes is huge. For many stylists who are fully booked and busy, it’s a game-changer.”
DAISY GOORD, WELLA HAIR UKI DIGITAL CRAFT EXPERT @DAISY_GOORD
ANDREW DUNNE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS GLOBAL HAIR COMMUNITY AMBASSADOR @HAIRBYMANE
Blonde
AMBITIONS
Creating dazzling blondes is as easy as one, two, three with Wella Studio’s three new advanced level courses, powered by the best techniques in the game…
The golden halo and the ‘eyes-on-me’ client con dence that going blonde brings… The avalanche of bookings all begging to go lighter in time for summer… Blonde is big business for salons and freelancers alike, and makes up a third of all client colour appointments. But are you 100 per cent sure you meet your clients’ standards when it comes to lightening and brightening?
A hands-on attitude with a scalp bleach will only get you so far. These days, clients demand greater technical sophistication, whether that’s subtle colour effects or show-stopping nishes. Want help to ensure you can deliver all that and more, every time? You need Wella Studio Education!
There are three new blonde courses to guarantee you bring your A-game to every blonde challenge. And you know that rst-grade blondes require rst-rate colour products. In all three courses, you’ll get the chance to use Wella Professionals’ latest innovation, BlondorPlex Cream Toners, which build back stronger, cleaner blondes without unwanted warmth or brassiness in just ve minutes. Want to cover all blonde bases? Buy all three courses together as the specialist programme and save 20 per cent. It’s time to book out your diary and build your blonde knowledge.
Start strong Blonde Expert Part 1
Becoming a blonde master is a journey. Start by getting blonde-confident, achieving the perfect lift, and building an understanding of the right product for the job. A blonde is only as beautiful as its final tone; luckily this course includes an in-depth practical workshop to give you just that. You’ll also get to grips with when and how to use Wella Professionals’ premier blonde tools Blondor or Koleston Perfect Special Blonde.
LEVEL Advanced PRICE £185+VAT
LONDON 27 June, 21 August
MANCHESTER 25 July, 11 September
Take it next-level Blonde Expert Part 2
Going blonde isn’t easy. The second step in this trio of blonde courses helps you manage more challenging briefs with an easy confidence and a focus on clientcare. Get hands-on with more advanced lightening trends including platinum card foiling and learn how to avoid bleeding and shifting natural depth. There’s also a root melt workshop and a hands-on practical with a life model. Take the next step in your journey to blonde specialist.
LEVEL Advanced PRICE £185+VAT
LONDON 28 June, 22 August
MANCHESTER 26 July, 12 September
Live Lounge:
Ultra Blondes
Hungry for even more inspiration? Head to Live Lounge: Ultra Blondes, where you can meet the Wella Studio Education team and get up-close-and-personal with the new Ultra Blonde Collection and the fab four lightening techniques and formulas behind it. Expect live demonstrations, high-energy catwalk model shows, and a deeper introduction to the new BlondorPlex Cream Toners.
WHEN 6pm to 8.30pm, 22 May PRICE £50 LOCATION Wella Studio London
Third time’s a charm Lights & Tone
Take your skills multi-dimensional with the final course of the trilogy! Go beyond the surface to construct clever placements and perfect application of foil highlights. Wave away fears around tricky foiling and intricate babylights techniques. This course will also explore different toning scenarios, help you understand transformative toning, and get the inside scoop with Wella Professionals’ hero formulas to take your blondes to the big leagues.
LEVEL Advanced PRICE £185+VAT
LONDON 1 August, 2, November MANCHESTER 31 July, 3 October
For more on these and any Wella Studio education course, download the Wella Education Book 2023 at wella.co.uk/educationbook
For more information and to book via your nearest studio contact wellastudiolondon@wella.com, 020 3650 4700 or wellastudiomanchester@wella.com, 0161 834 2645
@wellaprofessionalsuki
BE AMONGST THE FIRST
ACHIEVE A CERTIFIED DEGREE-LEVEL QUALIFICATION IN HAIR COLOUR WITH THE NEW WELLA COLOUR HIGHER LEVEL DIPLOMA FROM WELLA PROFESSIONALS
You can now get a degree in hair colour thanks to Wella Education. Their brand new hybrid-format programme, launching this summer, is backed and accredited by Glasgow University – which means that yes, you’ll get a full graduation ceremony with cap and gown on completion!
KEY INFO
COURSE NAME: Wella Colour Higher Level Diploma
FORMAT: Hybrid
LOCATIONS: London or Manchester
ENTRY CRITERIA: Applicants must have completed the Wella Colour Expert (previously known as MCP)
DURATION: 18 months
PROGRAMME STARTS: September 2023
WHAT’S THE ENTRY CRITERIA?
The new programme is designed to continue your learning journey from the existing Wella Colour Expert, (formerly known as the Master Colour Programme), so you’ll need to have completed that course first. Attendees of the Wella Colour Expert usually have at least 5 years experience of hair colouring before they enrol.
WHAT’S A HYBRID PROGRAMME AND HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE?
The course format will be a mixture of days in the Wella Studio, self-study at home, virtual classrooms and both online and practical assignments. It will take around 18 months to complete.
WHERE CAN I GET MORE INFORMATION?
The Programme Leaders are hosting free digital sessions where you can gain all the key info and ask questions - see details on the right > Or, head to education.wella.com and search ‘Wella Colour Higher Level Diploma’.
WHEN DOES IT START AND HOW DO I BOOK?
After attending the digital ‘Step Up’ session, you will be sent an application pack to complete and return to the Wella Studio before 30th June. The programme begins in September 2023.
Book your free place on one of our ‘Step Up’ digital sessions to gain info on the Wella Colour Higher Level Diploma:
Weds 3rd May 10am – 12pm
Weds 31st May 10am – 12pm
Mon 19th June 10am – 12pm
To book contact your nearest Wella Studio (details below).
X Creative Collaboration, Edinburgh
@xcreativecollaboration
Tammy Neillings, founder of new exible co-working space X Creative Collaboration, previously headed up the private Seed Studio in Edinburgh, but was keen to work alongside others. “Everything here was very much either the typical employed salon or chair renting,” explains Tammy. “Nothing that gave you the exibility, like you see from places in London. So, I thought I would just give myself some time to re-establish myself.”
The idea was to create an unbranded, high spec yet neutral space that would suit anybody coming in to use it in terms of wellness. “I don’t really align myself with the term ‘hair and beauty’, because I feel like it’s quite gendered and old fashioned,” she adds. “I talk about a state of wellness, where you’re using your creative skills to make people feel good.”
The location has two basins and six chairs and an industrial vibe, but is also a neutral space, making it ideal for creatives to capture content against a clean backdrop. She’s also working as much as possible with local designers and artists, and used lots of sustainably sourced materials in the build. A mentee in the Creative HEAD Activator mentoring scheme in 2022, Tammy was paired with The Social’s Ky Wilson, and sees the launch of XCC as the “full circle of our relationship”. “He’s been such a great sounding board and he’s always available to help.” If this space takes off, her plan is to open a second venue in the city.
THE PLACES
Collinge & Co, Liverpool
@collingeandco
As part of the rebrand from Andrew Collinge – now that son Charlie is heading up the business – the company’s flagship salon on Castle Street has undergone a complete revamp, with a video wall and two private spaces.
Paint & Powder, Stafford
@paintandpowderhair
Katie Mulcahy’s Midlands marvel has enjoyed a refresh, with a pretty pastel, sugared almond vibe, featuring scattered greenery and lots of warm touches that make it feel like a home away from home.
ACCESS ALL AREAS:
Pearl Appeal with L’Oréal Professionnel Paris
The inside scoop on this season’s must-have colour technique, French Balayage, including ve sparkling new Dia Light pearl shades
BALAYAGE JUST GOT BETTER
Clients are ocking back to salons for the professional and emotional perks that can’t be replicated at home. Some clients want their hair to look healthier, some need to cover greys, others are simply seeking a summer mood booster. French Balayage, the ever-popular professional two-step blonding technique from L’Oréal Professionnel Paris, can do it all! As we edge closer into summer, one of the hottest hair colour trends of the season is ‘Pearl’, and it’s already blowing up on social with more than 110,000 posts under #pearlblonde so far!
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris has you covered, with a new twist on French Balayage – French Balayage Pearl! And by using its hero products Blond Studio and Dia Light you can meet your clients’ pearly balayage desires this season. Seven out 10 clients want to go blonde, and nearly half of them dream of shimmering, multi-tonal colour * It can only mean balayage, it can only mean L’Oréal Professionnel Paris. It’s time to go French!
LET’S BREAK IT DOWN
Clients love coming to the salon; help them achieve their pearly balayage dreams with French Balayage Pearl. In TWO EASY STEPS you can achieve a seamlessly blended and perfectly neutralised pearl look, ready for summer! Lighten with Blond Studio for STEP ONE; which boasts high performance, better hair condition and achieves personalised results across the blonde spectrum from caramel to platinum. For STEP TWO reach for Dia Light for a lift-free high-shine nish and UP TO 30 PER CENT MORE CONDITIONED HAIR ** Cuticles are sealed, hair bres are silky soft, leaving behind a seamless colour blend and balayage beautiful tone.
ASK THE EXPERT Harriet Stokes
“For a truly seamless and glossy result I always use Dia Light and Blond Studio. Together they are the perfect pair to personalise and enhance my French Balayage clients. The acidic technology of Dia Light ensures the best results for my client’s hair. For an even more beautiful and eye-catching look this season I’ll be using the new Dia Light Pearls.”
HARRIET STOKES, L’ORÉAL PRO GLOBAL ARTIST @HARRIET_STOKES
BALAYAGE EDUCATION BOOST
Get your balayage education fix at lorealaccess.com, your one stop resource full of free and in-person premium course options…
FRENCH BALAYAGE PEARL – HOW TO WITH HARRIET STOKES
L’Oréal Pro Global Artist Harriet Stokes shows how to create a French Balayage Pearl result, including placement when working with a fringe. Also learn about application choice and creating the best tonal result.
WHERE Online at L’Oréal Access COST Free
Scan the QR code for more details
ACADEMY: PAINT WITH PURPOSE WITH HARRIET STOKES
Paint in person with Harriet’s one day in-person balayage course. See Harriet display her freehand balayage technique and how to paint different hair types.
WHAT One-day practical course
WHERE London, Edinburgh COST £295
Scan the QR code for more details
Want to know more about the amazing L’Oréal Professionnel Paris education services and show-stopping colour ranges? Register for free at lorealaccess.com
@lorealpro
THE FACES THE FACES
THE PEOPLE IN ACTION
What would Yesmin O’Brien do?
an extra day must be booked out for long-haul travel. Photoshoots are easier as they run on a one- or two-day basis, and I try to do these on my days off. However, planning must come into this to make it all go smoothly.
ORGANISATION, FLEXIBILITY, INTEGRITY, respect, calmness, focus, timekeeping. These words cover myriad facets, and all are essential to marry being a salon stylist and a session worker.
Being in the salon is a different business to working on the session circuit, but the mindset shouldn’t change. Every person sitting in your chair should get the same treatment.
I try to plan my working diary so that there is as little disruption as possible. Fashion Week dates don’t normally change so that gets booked out a year in advance. The only minor adjustment may be the cruise shows, which can take place in more far-flung and exotic places, so
As for hair shows, I try to get a meeting in with the client sooner rather than later to allow me time to build any hairpieces and adjust them because they don’t always work.
From experience, model agencies must protect models from having any major adjustments to their hair as it is their business, and we must respect that.
My preferred working environment is quiet and calm, so I try to organise as much as I can before turning up for work. It allows me to focus and solve issues with a clear mind.
Timekeeping is another point I work on. It’s never great to turn up for a job late. Allowing time for minor travel disruptions such as a delayed train or traffic should be factored in. If someone has trusted you enough to give you that job, it’s respectful to be on time and with a clean kit.
@yesminobrien
WHAT MADE ME STACEY WHYTE Cheveux Salon @cheveuxsalonx
When I decided to open my salon, I was young. It was just me and my oldest son, with nothing but a whole lot of determination and a love for what I do. Within months of opening, my one-yearold son was thrown into the whirlwind of an autism diagnosis, and Zak will always need care 24/7. Navigating the years, we have been smashing any obstacles that come
our way. I have two boys now and I have the safe knowledge that my youngest will grow up to be independent and live the life we all want for our kids. With Zak, who’s now 12, I have the daily thought of: “let’s go”. I have to look to my future-self every day, taking the steps I need to, being smart. I work hard to build a life for my family, in particular Zak, that I can leave behind.
In the plainest terms, I won’t be here forever and Zak is going to need the best full-time care when I’m gone. I need to know he is cared for, happy and in the best hands. To do that, I need to build now so that I know he’s always going to be okay. So really, he made me. He will always be my drive to succeed. If that isn’t a reason to keep going, I don’t know what is.
Being an in-demand session and salon stylist is the dream for many, Seanhanna’s artistic director explains how she keeps on top of workload
A DAY OF WORK/ LIFE BALANCE FOR SESSION STYLIST HALLEY BRISKER @HALLEYBRISKER
I GET UP AT… Whenever my kids get up, which tends to be as annoyingly early as possible, usually about 6.30am every day.
MY WORK WARDROBE CONSISTS OF…
A mixture of everything from tracksuits and hoodies to holiday vibe shirt and trousers. Think Michael Douglas in Romancing the Stone, depending on how I’m feeling!
MY JOB ENTAILS…
Making people look as good as humanly possible.
I GOT HERE BY…
Sheer hard work.
MY DAY CONSISTS OF…
My days can look very different. But they usually consist of looking after someone in some way, shape or form, whether it be family at home or talent I work with, I’m essentially looking after their needs.
MY FAVOURITE WORK TOOL IS… My hands.
MY DAILY FUEL IS… Seeing people.
MY SPOTIFY PLAYLIST INCLUDES… A lot of techno, and D-Bloc Europe.
I’M ALWAYS PLANNING… The next hair look.
WHEN I GET STRESSED I… Get quiet.
WHEN I GET STUCK I… Get stressed!
THE HABIT I NEED TO BREAK IS…
Using my phone too much. It’s a real crutch.
THE MISTAKE I LEARNT THE MOST FROM…
Don’t rush things in life. When you take your time, the best outcomes always happen.
THE ADVICE I’M GLAD I IGNORED… “Go get a job with a future”, because that looked like something “normal”. It was totally untrue.
MY INBOX LOOKS LIKE… A mess!
MY BIGGEST INDULGENCE IS… Workout gear.
AFTER WORK I… Like to be alone.
I DECOMPRESS BY… Being with my family.
F*%ked up – but fixed it!
THE F*%K-UP
We almost bankrupted the business by attempting to buy a space that was way too big, way too soon! There was a commercial premises that came up that was ridiculously large and fire damaged, so it needed a lot of work and money put into it. We were blinded by a couple of things, but one was that we knew a competitor was looking at it too. Fortunately around the same time we decided to try a business coach. They said if we went through with this, they wouldn’t work with us because it was such a stupid decision!
THE FIX
We learnt a lot out of that experience. First, focus on your own thing and ignore what your competitors are doing; they’re kind of irrelevant and you have the best knowledge of your own situation. Second, when looking for units, imagine your perfect premises –then go and find that unit. Don’t make your dreams fit into a shop, find a shop that fits your dreams. Finally, this almost massive mistake led us to working with a business coach, who completely changed the way we saw our business and helped us so much.
BUSINESS ESSENTIALS
RUNNING A SALON OR BARBERING BUSINESS IS HARD WORK, BUT AXA BUSINESS INSURANCE WANTS TO MAKE IT THAT LITTLE BIT EASIER…
EVENT AND SIDE-HUSTLE IDEAS FOR HAIRDRESSERS
Events can make customers feel appreciated by your salon and lead to more frequent visits. Here are a few event ideas that could help you get people into your salon…
Think about your event goals
• Raising awareness of your salon and services
• Boosting retail sales or appointments booked
• Creating stronger links between other local businesses or the community
• Getting media coverage and positive word-ofmouth chatter
• Thanking existing customers for their loyalty
Choose your event type
Select an event style that can help meet your goals. Here are a few event examples: Workshops. Virtually or in-person, hold workshops on simpler aspects of haircare to empower customers. Consider masterclasses on styling hair at home.
Charity events. See if there’s an organisation which uses hair donations to make wigs for children experiencing hair loss and offer a free haircut for anyone who is donating to charity. Art openings. Offer to hang an artist’s work in your salon for people to buy.
New product launches. Hold launch events for new products from the ranges you use. Promotion days. If a certain day of the week is slow, promotions can help drive footfall.
Plan your salon event
Set a budget. Make a list of expenses and research costs.
Organise your team. Speak to your team and clients to see what day and time works best.
Master plan. Your pre-event timeline should include when any permits/insurance policies need to be submitted, when event registration opens and closes, and when marketing campaigns go live.
Get the word out. Use social media and email lists to get the word out, post flyers. Confirm the details. As the event gets closer, confirm speakers, partners, and/or any outside vendors you are bringing in. Work the room. Speak to every person in the room and really connect. Post-event marketing. Get in touch with guests the following week to thank them for attending, and put event images on social media.
Insure your event – and your salon
Whatever your event plans, protect your partners and customers with business insurance from AXA. The main covers for hairdressing businesses include public liability insurance which protects you, staff and customers from accidental injury that occurs because of your business practices.
What about a side hustle?
Aside from working as a stylist or running a salon, you might consider a side hustle to earn extra money. These include brand sales, being a personal assistant, hair education, customer care, or work as a beautician. Before starting you’ll need to:
• Choose a structure – sole trader or limited company – and register with HMRC
• Check you’ve got the right business licences and certificates
• Get business insurance
Why you must tell HMRC about a side hustle
Even if you make little or no profit, HMRC won’t know that until you tell it. If you register for Self-Assessment but your side hustle hasn’t earned enough, you won’t pay any tax. If HMRC finds out you’re trading and you haven’t submitted a tax return, you could pay large fines.
SUBSCRIBE NOW TO CREATIVE HEAD
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Ultimate Repair from Wella Professionals repairs hair damage in 90 seconds. Thanks to the combination of Alpha Hydroxy Acid and Omega-9, Ultimate Repair rebuilds bonds inside the hair and replenishes hair outside for long-lasting shine, strength and smoothness.
Already a Creative HEAD subscriber? Then we’ve got something for you too! One lucky subscriber will win a full-sized Ultimate Repair set, including Shampoo, Conditioner, Miracle Hair Rescue and Protective LeaveIn Serum, worth more than £150. For more information visit wella.co.uk
*For the rst 10 new subscribers to sign up between 1 May and 31 May 2023. Subject to availability, no cash equivalent will be offered.
EXPRESS yourself
We all have a hair story, and a beauty attitude as unique as our DNA. From the rush of the salon floor to the busy streets; hair is a rainbow of colours and textures, but poor styling can let heads down and crush creative expression.
OSiS, the cleverly revamped range by Schwarzkopf Professional, brings an inclusive and intuitive styling experience
to the table. Innovations mean top-level results in salon and at home, with a reliable formula loved by stylists and clients for more than 20 years.
OSiS is about self-expression, curated styling and trusted performance. Whatever your hair type or texture, your unique style creation takes centre stage…
THE POWER of individuality
Heads shouldn’t be typecast; OSiS lets individual style and expression shine. Its new-look packaging also empowers, making styling a more inclusive experience for all
Clients are individuals, not numbers. Styling on a headby-head basis, the new OSiS assortment helps unleash an independent personality and free spirit. From rock‘n’roll messy to sartorially sleek; it does it all with a unique difference; the individual is the missing ingredient.
The same goes for the new-look fully recyclable packaging; everyone can easily choose the right product for them.
Contrasting colours differentiate between products and are relevant to all genders. Its pared-down look and modern matte finish is a sure-fire salon shelf conversation starter, expect a boost in sales from style and styling conscious clients too.
A product and packaging refresh ready to take salons by storm, clients will love the individual expression it offers, while stylists can rely on the same iconic performance.
A COLLECTION FOR EVERY EXPRESSION
An innovative formula that’s sure to please, in six ranges to suit diverse hair types and textures, the relaunched OSiS assortment means unique creations for unique heads. No person is a product; but these will surely help them tell their story
Smooth & Shine
The hero: OSiS Flatliner
This provides heat protection up to 230°C, and is designed for daily use of heated hair appliances.
Volume & Body
The hero: OSiS Grip
An extra stronghold mousse for use on damp hair, it keeps even coarse hair in its place.
Curls & Waves
The hero: OSiS Bounty Balm
This rich curl cream enhances curls by reducing frizz, while adding shine. It tames straight hair too.
Texture
The hero: OSiS Dust It
A mattifying hair powder, use Dust It on dry hair for invincible, natural-looking matt volume.
Hold
The hero: OSiS Elastic
This medium-hold hairspray for dry hair gives the right balance between workability and style maintenance.
2nd Day
The hero: OSiS Refresh Dust
A bodifying dry shampoo, Refresh Dust combats greasiness to give new life to any style.
LEARNING CURVE
Bound by a philosophy of education, OSiS by Schwarzkopf Professional promises successful styling –leaving clients happy in the chair and at home
Not just an inclusive brand with a proven track-record, OSiS believes in education and helping hairdressers become the best stylists they can be. Diversity, inclusivity, individuality, reliability, performance. The new OSiS assortment stands for it all, but a client’s desired hair style will only come to life in your trained hands. It’s not enough to stock for success, you must
style for it too. Luckily, OSiS offers both. Make your styling skills and techniques match up by turning to the ASK Education eAcademy, Schwarzkopf Professional's free online training solution portal schwarzkopfpro.com/eacademy
For a hands-on insight, visit schwarzkopfpro.com/askseminars to look for dedicated seminars that teach the latest looks.
The revamped OSiS assortment is available from May 2023. Visit schwarzkopfpro.com/osis to find out more
@schwarzkopfprouk
IT’S A SHOW DOWN IT’S A SHOW DOWN
HAS SOCIAL MEDIA DESTROYED THE HAIR SHOW?
Frazer Wallace cut his teeth on live hair platforms before social media took hold. He asks if the hair show is a thing of the past…
WHEN I WAS coming up in the industry, social media hadn’t yet taken root (it was on the cusp –I’m not that old!) and our inspiration came from the hair show. My first such show was the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award way back in 2010. I still remember the fluorescent yellow textures storming down the runway and realising THAT IS IT! That was where I wanted to be.
Since then Instagram, TikTok and all the future apps we’ve yet to become addicted to, have taken over. It’s made it so much easier to be seen and show our work in our own way. But has this new way of showcasing our work taken the drive and need to be on stage away? Maybe.
Let me be clear: I’m not here to tear down the stars of social media. It’s more a question of where our goals are set within this new age of hairdressing. For me, stage work is still where I feel like a pop star. Putting together a good stage show, casting models, doing hair in front of an audience has, and always will be, my passion and my main goal for my career.
Social media plays a huge part in this. It’s how we promote the show, how we get people to come and watch us. No longer do we need to be under huge brands to be seen. But does the follower count take over the desire to learn this valuable skill? In some respects, yes. Many hairdressers may lack this because they’re more concerned with the apps and the following. Approaching my idols, working with them and assisting them in creating the 20-minute slots to wow an audience… that’s what shaped me as a hairdresser. If any stylist gets the opportunity to do this, they should do it! It’s a feeling like no other, and I’ll let you in on a little secret: show hair is real, Instagram sometimes is not. An audience clapping and cheering is real, a ‘like’ is not.
We need to remember that these apps can disappear at any point. It might shut down, a new app fights to take its place (look at the battle between Instagram and TikTok) but the hair show is forever. I will fight to the end to keep it alive, and while we see some companies shifting to digital and focusing less on the real-life hair art performed on stage, we need to let them know that we still want that. We also want to see the incredible artists who put so much time, effort and creativity into their posts. They can live together but we can’t let the magic of the hair show die. Look at it this way: you can’t have macaroni without the cheese. I’ll let you decide which is which…
@frazerhairTAKEITTO THELASHES
Hairbondshavebeentakencareof;nowmakewayfor lasheswithLASHBONDBuildingSerumfromOLAPLEX
Bond-building has saved hair health; but what about building back beautiful elsewhere? As haircare advisers, salons and stylists must recommend clients products to excite and disrupt. Relationships you’ve nurtured means your opinion counts on subjects beyond hair. You’ll know other matters that are on their mind, from skin issues to beauty concerns. Maybe you have the answer on your shelf in the salon…
There’s no doubt that bond-building has wowed clients; but could a fresh innovation by the brand that started it all x another concern? You bet it could... If eyes are the windows to the soul; lashes are the drapes. Ensure they’re on top form with LASHBOND Building Serum, from the original bond-builder, OLAPLEX.
Short? Lagging on lift and curl? Feeling a bit ‘meh’ on volume? Dry and brittle to the touch?
OLAPLEX LASHBOND Building Serum tackles these top lash concerns head on. One gentle swipe to the lash line delivers longer, thicker, stronger, and healthier-looking lashes.
As with OLAPLEX’s other top-shelf bonding products, strength and vitality is built from the inside out – and it’s built to last. Inside, great bond-building work takes place; the ophthalmologist-tested formula
contains new OLAPLEX Peptide Complex Technology, OLAPLEX Bond Building Technology, hydrating hyaluronic acid and biotin, which combine to boost the natural lash growth cycle and retention. Lashes are left more nourished and less dry and brittle. But what about the aesthetics?
Expect fuller, denser, and longer-looking lashes – and all the gorgeous doe-eyed appeal that goes with them. Don’t just take our word for it – in a LASHBOND clinical study, 97 per cent of participants reported an improvement in appearance, with denser and longer-looking lashes; while a staggering 100 per cent said lashes looked thicker.*
A new, unique and results-driven offering, LASHBOND is not a product you’ll have to do the hard sell on. Client lashes will look healthier; and so will your revenue stream. It’s free from sulphates, phthalates, parabens, gluten, silicone, and it’s vegan to boot!
No surface level quick- x, LASHBOND
Building Serum is about noticeable, sustainable and healthy lash growth for the long-term. Are you ready to blink back beautiful?
PERFORMANCE ART
From a varied session life to a long collaboration with Lana Del Rey, Most Wanted Independent Stylist Anna Cofone brings a deeper understanding of performance to her sublime work. Now she shares what she’s learnt with Amanda Nottage
In a revamped transport hub in Hackney there’s a studio generously filled with hair products, wigs, hair pieces, scrapbooks and moodboards. This is where I find Anna Cofone, armed with a Henry vacuum cleaner. It’s a sight that says a great deal about the three-time winner of Most Wanted’s Independent Stylist Award, who will be crowned a Most Wanted Legend in September. She likes order, and things to be in their place. Years on the session circuit with Sam McKnight and Eugene Souleiman, as well as leading her own shows, have honed a disciplined work ethic that’s been there since the beginning – the influence of her Italian father. But more on that later…
Alongside Fashion Week shows and beautiful editorials, Anna has made her name creating stunning work with celebrities and talents such as Dua Lipa and Lana Del Rey. And she can trace a throughline from this back to her early years, when young Anna undertook a diploma in performing arts. “I loved singing and acting. I thought that was going to be my profession,” she explains. “It dived into all areas – production, hair, makeup, clothes, how to create characters.” She found herself doing the hair and make-up for end of term shows and loved it.
When the course was over, she sang with three different bands but realised that “I just wasn’t as good as the people I idolised”. She asked herself what she could learn that would enable her to remain in a creative field. On a night out, she got chatting with a trainee from salon chain Haringtons – “it was one of those Sliding Doors moments” – and later set up an interview with the one and only Eamonn Boreham.
“He was the catalyst,” she says. “What he did was sell
me a story and a vision of where hairdressing could take you. He didn’t focus on the boring stuff like sweeping, washing hair, and making teas and coffees. He sold the different parts, working on shows, shoots, rubbing shoulders with artists, travelling the world… I was hooked.” She sped through her training in one year and 10 months.
Those “different parts” spoke to Anna, the girl growing up in Maidenhead who had saved her pocket money to buy Vogue Italia, and obsessed over Fashion TV in the era of the original Supermodels. “I just loved the fashion stories – the ones that stood out were Paolo Roversi shoots with either Eugene or Julien D’Ys on hair, I loved the theatre of it.”
At Haringtons, she worked her way up to art director, while Eamonn was “good at keeping me hooked in” – assisting on his photoshoots, seminars, and doing L’Oréal Colour Trophy. In fact, it was another L’Oréal competition that altered Anna’s career in 2001, Talentspotting. “You had to present, master that idea of a concept, the production and, for me, it tied in with the performing arts background,” she recalls. The impact of winning was “pretty immediate”. The prize included a shoot for Sunday Times Style at the Royal Academy of Dance, shot on stage. “I remember it so vividly,” she smiles, “it was a moment where it just felt like everything came together.”
She left Haringtons in 2006 to go travelling, moving back to London in 2008 to work in the boutique Lost in Beauty, which offered hair and make-up in its basement. It was serendipitous; the owner was good friends with the late Premier Hair & Make-up agent Paul Lonergan, and knew hair legend Sam McKnight and make-up artist Mary Greenwell. She was introduced to Paul, and by September she was on Sam’s team for London Fashion Week. Building her skillset, she then took herself to Milan and Paris, finding a space on Eugene’s team. “I was naughty. I was on both Sam’s and Eugene’s teams,” she laughs. “But I worked really hard, so I think they were okay with it, and the shows never clashed.”
In those early seasons, she was “just passing up, cleaning up and showing up”. She explains: “The overriding element was discipline, punctuality, being organised, having my kit prepped, being ready to go as soon as we got there. Just not taking it lightly.”
It’s why that now she’s leading her own Fashion Week teams and working with stylists from Oribe salons (for whom she’s the UK and EMEA ambassador), she’s put in place a series of workshops to nurture the skills of assistants. “I want to make sure there was a cohesiveness
with the skillset and an understanding of etiquette,” she explains. Everything from identifying specialist equipment to simple styling techniques and roleplaying scenarios with models, is included.
Two weeks before Fashion Week started, she created a backstage setup at the Kao Academy, giving assistants a look to create against the clock. “I said: ‘Don’t think about yourself, how well you do the look, and get into your head. Think about what’s right for the team. And think about the end goal, which is that we get every model done on time’,” she recalls. “We saw how people showed up for each other. No ego, no tension or passive aggression. They’ve still got a long way to go but they all looked out for each other. It made a massive difference.”
Her time on Fashion Week shows is balanced with editorial work and collaborations with artists and celebrities, the longest of which is with Lana Del Rey. Stylist Johnny Blueeyes approached her about a test shoot at his house with an unsigned singer. “That’s how that all started,” she recalls. It’s now a 12-year relationship – she was on the phone with Lana the night before our interview, discussing an upcoming video shoot – and it’s clearly one that means a great deal. “I’m really lucky. Because we’re a team and we understand each other’s aesthetic and vision.”
It was a collaboration that initially tested her. “I did Fashion Week in September, in October we went to Versailles to shoot the iconic music video for her first single Born to Die, and then I was gone for two years, pretty much on the road full time with
her!” she says. “It’s the only time I felt exposed about whether I was doing a good job.”
She admits that she suffered “a bit of impostor syndrome”. She had been looking at becoming someone’s first assistant: “that seemed to be the norm, you’d earn your stripes. So, I felt very vulnerable choosing to go with Lana”. She recalls a conversation with Sam McKnight ahead of Lana’s first big editorial shoot, for Interview magazine. Indeed, the shoot itself – Lana with a bee placed on her lip – has become iconic. “That was my first shoot with major fashion photographers. We were going to advance her look from the Hollywood wave to this beehive, a huge ’60s shape… and I felt petrified. Sam said to me: ‘You’re gonna be fine. Don’t get caught up in what it is –just do the work’.”
It’s clear how rewarding Anna finds collaborating with an artist. “The idea of being able to harness what an artist wants, to represent them aesthetically, to take inspiration from their music is really exciting, because what you do for a music video is different to what you would do for the album cover and different to what you do for their red-carpet events.”
The experience has left a lasting impression. Every night of one tour, Anna walked into the audience. “What was interesting was those super fans. There were all versions of her, this whole community of fans who got to meet each other, become friends,” she says. It has also dovetailed with a personal project, Hair & Care, which offers haircare workshops for the visually impaired. The genesis was her father’s retinitis pigmentosa, which saw his sight deteriorate from his mid 20s. By 50, he was in complete darkness. Her father passed away in 2009, and Anna was keen to give back while finding a place where she could also keep his memory alive. “His disability impacted and
LFW: SINEAD O’DWYER A/W23
“It was empowering to do her show because she celebrates diversity and inclusivity. Her casting is predominantly of non-models. A great show as an introduction for the team, working on enhancing each person’s natural texture.”
LFW: SUSAN FANG A/W23
“We went for waist-length hair with these shiny fringes, some with beautiful accessories, 3D-printed clear flowers, black ribbons and clips. It was very theatrical.”
inspired my sisters and me with how we went at life, being very deliberate and focused on what we wanted to achieve.”
She has vivid memories of his attention to his look. Her grandfather had been a barber in rural southern Italy, visiting houses to cut men’s hair (and flirt with their wives –“I love that story,” grins Anna). In turn her father was always well dressed, and meticulous about his hair. Using clippers, he placed an envelope at the back and sides of his head to get the line perfect.
“He was passionate about how you present yourself, how you’re perceived, how you dress, your hair, how you take care of yourself – how it impacts identity, confidence. I saw the impact when his hair was freshly done, when he was in a suit… he felt good, he was cheeky. He was empowered,” she smiles. “That was the first seed of Hair & Care.”
By 2019, the seed had bloomed. She reached out to the Royal Society for Blind Children, presenting the idea of monthly workshops, teaching the basics but with the hope that there would be a ripple effect on confidence. Then the pandemic hit. “I started the sessions online, which was hard,” she admits. In the end, they became a get together. “They’d each tell me about their hair texture, their scalp issues, how they wanted to look. There was a lot of talking and then simple things – how do you get a middle parting?”
LFW: CHET LOW A/W23
“A huge highlight, and a real milestone for me careerwise, because we had Patti Wilson doing the styling –an absolute fashion icon legend. Very nerve-wracking.”
In August 2021, they finally hosted their first in-person workshop. It’s since been opened to additional charities, with workshop for all ages (Anna found mixing age groups became “a really interesting dynamic”, teaching students aged 12 to 75).
BOOK YOUR SPACE ON ANNA’S MASTERCLASS!
Anna will be running a masterclass across two days in London in October, showcasing key looks from her career working with music artists and celebrities, the latest fashion campaigns and essential session kit tools and skills. All profits will go to Hair & Care to support a photobook project featuring portraits and stories of people with visual impairment and the impact self care has on their confidence and identity. Want to book? Contact studio@annacofone.com. To volunteer your time for Hair & Care, contact hairandcareproject@gmail.com. Visit hairandcareproject.com
“What I’ve noticed with people who have a disability – physical or mental or emotional – is a fear that they’re not good enough nor work in a creative industry,” she says. “The workshops are about the bigger impact, helping people realise that through self care, learning how to care and style their hair can lead to a stronger sense of identity, confidence and even aspire to a career within the creative world.”
Hair & Care is now a registered CIC, and the idea is to continue building the workshops, reach out to more visually impaired people in more parts of the UK, and identify sources for funding. Volunteers come from salons, some are her Fashion Week assistants, but she’s always looking for more.
It’s a busy life. Her hope is to continue leading shows at Fashion Week in London, Milan and Paris shows, balanced with her editorial fashion shoots, advertising campaigns and continuing work with Lana Del Rey (a new album means possibly a tour and festivals later this year) and others.
When you are a deliberate and focused person, how tricky is it to live in these worlds of lastminute confirmations?
She pauses to consider. “It’s to do with my upbringing. Despite Dad being blind, he was the pillar of our family but that also meant he had to be very controlled in all aspects of his life and family life on a daily basis. I learnt the importance of being thorough, organised,” she says. “If I wasn’t diligent, there’s just no way it could work.”
In Anna’s hands, you can’t help but feel safe.
For more from Anna, check out creativeheadmag.com and @creativeheadmag
MODERN LOVE
Today’s colour client is looking for more than ever before from their professional appointment. You can tick everything on their list with new Topchic Zero from Goldwell
Your clients are more demanding, but in a good way; they know they want a great result, with exceptional but natural-looking coverage, and they want a more sustainable choice. Clean beauty is more than a passing trend; it’s what many consumers expect as standard. For professional colour, this translates to ammonia-free, natural ingredients and little to no aroma.*
As colour innovation delivers brilliant tools to your fingertips, are you making the most of what ammonia-free colour can do for your business? First, identify the key clients that your business needs to thrill. Do these three client types ring any bells?
• Hair perfectionists who want the best performing and conditioning product, and are willing to pay more for it**
• Clients consciously looking for a sustainable solution and who care about the environment**
• Clients who are health-nervous, looking to pay for the purest and kindest-to-skin products
You can give these vital three client types precisely what they want, thanks to a new launch that’s bold, innovative and already iconic: Topchic Zero.
Care. Colour. Coverage. Shine.
• Up to 94 per cent naturallyderived ingredients***
• Free-from ammonia, silicones, animal-derived ingredients (vegan) and ethanol
• Incredibly natural, reliable grey coverage – up to 100 per cent
• Smooth and beautifully shiny hair with up to twice more shine, versus untreated hair
• A gentle fragrance, tailor-made for Topchic Zero – a fresh, oral and woody composition
• Hair that looks and feels healthy
• Enriched with natural ingredients such as white tea essence, known for intensi ed conditioning effects and natural moisture; and acai extract, a powerful antioxidant and nature‘s remedy against hair breakage
• Designed with 27 compact yet versatile shade options that allow maximum creativity
• Works with Goldwell’s System Developer Lotion – no need for additional developers
• Intermixable with Goldwell
@Pure Pigment to expand creative opportunities
That’s only half the story. Discover why Topchic Zero is today’s colour choice for so many colourists…
THE RESPONSIBLE CHOICE
Salons and stylists are increasingly aware of their impact on the world around them. Want to make a more responsible choice? Then Topchic Zero is your new go-to. From the drain safe formula that’s up to 98 per cent biodegradable* to the sustainably and responsibly sourced packaging that’s made from up to 100 per cent recycled and recyclable materials.
CAN FORMAT
• Recyclable, unique depot can system
TUBE FORMAT
• 100 per cent recycled and recyclable tube
• Saving up to 6.6 tonnes of aluminium per year*
Develop your skills, grow your business
Ammonia-free colour opens new business and creative opportunities… and heralds an entirely new experience for colourists and their clients. There’s plenty of education support and virtual seminars to help you get even more from this new generation of colour. Want to know how? Learn all there is to know about Topchic Zero with the Confidence Class – scan the QR code to book your place!
RECYCLABLE, WEIGHT REDUCED CARDBOARD FOLDING BOX
• Usage instructions printed inside the folding box, replacing the leaflet and saving up to 7.8 tonnes of wood a year
• From certified sustainable sources**
99 PER CENT RECYCLED TUBE CAP
• Saving up to 1.4 tonnes of virgin plastic per year***
“The best of both worlds”
You know the ingredients, you know its sustainability credentials. Now discover why leading UK colourists love Topchic Zero from Goldwell
“More and more, we’re looking to make better sustainable choices. This is why I love new Topchic Zero. Ammoniafree, it provides intensified conditioning and natural moisture which is more caring on the hair and still enables us to offer our clients multi-tonal, natural looking shades. What’s not to love?”
CASEY COLEMAN, CHAIR SALONS“I love Topchic Zero. The cans ensure we use less and achieve more for our clients. It offers a multitude of business and creative colour benefits that sets it apart from other brands. I can’t recommend it enough.”
JOHN SPANTON, ANGELO SEMINARA SALON“Topchic Zero offers the best of both worlds: a caring formula that doesn’t compromise on performance while offering a more sustainable colour product and a service that meets the needs of our environmentally conscious clients.”
LYDIA WOLFE, GOLDWELL COLOUR AMBASSADOR, JACK & THE WOLFE“Being climate neutral and vegan, new Topchic Zero is the perfect choice for our environmentally conscious clients, which means we can continue to make sustainable choices for our business and our planet.”
“Our clients want the best colour performance and more sustainable products and services. New Topchic Zero is the perfect solution: ammonia-free, the perfect balance of highend colour performance with an incredible selection of shades that leave hair with maximum coverage and a luxurious shine.”
RICHARD MUNSLOW, TONI&GUYBoost your colour business with Topchic Zero from Goldwell. Book a virtual education seminar to discover the range, and visit goldwell.co.uk to learn more
@goldwelluki #iamgoldwell #topchiczero
ERNIE MAZONAITE, HARE & BONE
OPEN TO THE OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES OF SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS, AS WELL AS FREELANCE HAIR PROFESSIONALS, ALL WORKING IN THE UK AND IRELAND
2023 CATEGORIES
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FOR ENTRIES
MONDAY 22 MAY
FINALISTS ANNOUNCED FRIDAY 16 JUNE
GRAND FINAL MONDAY 4 SEPTEMBER
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FOR HOW TO ENTER VISIT
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/MOSTWANTED
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OPEN TO THE OWNERS AND EMPLOYEES OF SALONS AND BARBER SHOPS, AS WELL AS FREELANCE HAIR PROFESSIONALS, ALL AGED 30 OR UNDER AND WORKING IN THE UK AND IRELAND
THE BUSINESS BUILDER
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THE NEXT SELF/STYLED SUNDAY IS COMING, OFFERING FREELANCERS EXPERT ADVICE AND EDUCATION, FREE OF CHARGE
NEXT EVENT: SUNDAY 4 JUNE LOCATION: ONLINE VIA ZOOM COST: FREE!
Soak up the professional advice of our masterclass speakers and ask them your burning questions at the next SELF/STYLED Sunday on 4 June. There are three juicy sessions to sink your teeth into…
CLAIRE
CHELL
Überliss ambassador Claire Chell dives deep into supercharging client services while ensuring hair looks and feels incredible
DAISY
GOORD
Blonde boss Daisy Goord shares the hot summer colour trends including Ultra Balayage and fast toning with BlondorPlex Cream Toners from Wella Professionals
ABBEY JARROLD
Indola’s UK ambassador Abbey Jarrold spills the tea on what the new CREA-Bold range can do for your business and your clients
FOR MORE INFORMATION, SCAN THE QR CODE
GET BACK TO SCHOOL!
Did you know that since the beginning of this year, secondary schools have a statutory duty to give all pupils in years 8 to 13 at least six opportunities to meet with a range of providers of technical education? If you offer apprenticeships in your business, that could mean you!
The change in legislation is a move to beef up the Baker Clause, introduced in 2018 to help overcome funding incentives in the system and ensure that young people are aware of all the options available to them – including through technical education. A 2019 study* found that two-thirds of secondary schools were still flouting the Baker Clause a year after it was introduced.
In real terms, the government’s Skills and Post-16 Education Act (aka the Skills Bill) means that schools and colleges now have a legal obligation to act impartially and not show any bias towards any route, be that academic or technical. Furthermore, colleges
and other providers must work with employers to develop skills plans, so that the training on offer meets the needs of local areas, and people no longer have to leave their home towns to find great jobs.
At Creative HEAD we’ve listened to you tell us how you’ve been prevented from talking to pupils about apprenticeships within your salon.
Well, now you have a legal right to access those pupils, so make the most of this opportunity to promote the value of a career in hairdressing.
You’ll find some incredible assets to support your arguments in a special Careers Pack – including industry stats, a 50-minute filmed documentary, information on the different ways to train, 12 real-life case studies demonstrating the wealth of opportunity available within a career in hair – on The Industry website at the-industry.co.uk/ not-just-a-hairdresser
We hope it helps with your search for your next new apprentice!
* By the Institute for Public Policy Research
1.TAKE AN APPRENTICESHIP
45% HAIRDRESSING HAS SHOWN GROWTH IN LAST FIVE YEARS*
IN 2019/20*
99%
SALONS ARE INDEPENDENTLY OWNED***; 82% OF SALON OWNERS ARE
SIX-FIGURE SALARIES ARE NOT UNCOMMON
2. STUDY AT COLLEGE the-industry.co.uk | @theindustrysquad
Exaucé Imbo, also known as Ex the Barber, first picked up his clippers at age 14 and never looked back.
NEW ON SITE
There’s no getting around it, anxiety can strike anybody at any time, and it can be debilitating. Read the HUB guide to anxiety management and support in the workplace
Steph Stephenson thought a new hire would work wonders for her salon’s image, but it backfired. Find out how she turned things around in the HUB’s latest tale of business blunders resolved…
MORE TO EXPLORE ON THE SALON SMART HUB…
MINDFUL LEADERSHIP AND HAPPY TEAMS – THAT’S SALON SMART
Happy and motivated staff who stick around, setting the right prices and satisfied clients; it all hinges on mind-positive leadership. Success comes top-down, argued Salon Smart’s spectacular speakers…
What does a successful business owner look like? And what’s on their plate every day? Inflation, rising mental health challenges, recruitment; staff and clients alike are feeling the burden, and salon and barber shop bosses need to lead by example for wellbeing and success. Creating a culture that team members want to be a part of is key; bosses must offer greater empathy, a flexible attitude, and more care for their career progression. But leaders have a responsibility to themselves too; many on the stage at this year’s Salon Smart believed that a mentally healthy boss makes for a mentally healthier team.
Self-respect was another much-mentioned theme, including knowing your salon’s financial worth. Great salons, our speakers agreed, extend the philosophy of wellbeing to client services including consultations, which one speaker uses to weed out bad customers and keep the ones they want.
Today’s successful salons are led by motivational, supportive and intuitive owners who know the value of their stylists and services. In tune with the mood on the streets, they understand that clients need a mental escape as well as a great service. Let’s see what they have to share…
RETHINK CONSULTATIONS
Consultations can be rushed. Instead, use them to give clients the services they want, as they might not have the knowledge to know themselves. They are also a great way to offload clients who aren’t a culture fit, which could keep your reviews sky-high.
It’s not down to the client to understand what services they need, it’s ours, said Allertons’ Nicholas Nicola, whose group includes sites within John Lewis. “It’s our job to understand and empathise with the client, even if they can’t articulate what that is. Just because something isn’t new to you doesn’t mean it isn’t new to your client.”
Consultations can also be used to get rid of the undesirables, explained Subrina Kidd of SKH. “Previously, I didn’t have a say in who my clients were, and I often spent hours with people I didn’t really like. Now I’ve started doing in-person consultations to see if we fit, and if we don’t I tell them I’m fully booked for the next six months.”
REMEMBER, YOU’RE RESPONSIBLE!
A successful salon owner is a responsible one. Neither distant nor a micromanager. But sometimes bosses need to learn things the hard way, as Chop Chop London founder Kaye Sotomi did when he lost his entire team during Covid because he failed to build a good salon culture. He explained: “Create a culture where people come to work and connect to what they do. If you’re not sharing your mission, you have a poor culture.”
Joe Hemmings, founder of Bloggs Salons, agreed that leaders have a responsibility to make their salons a happier place for staff. He asked his stylists to draw up their ‘dream week’, including what hours they wanted to work. “I then structured the business around that,” he said. “The team now take holidays whenever they want, providing there aren’t pre-booked appointments on those days.”
Being a responsible boss also means letting stylists take the reins in key areas of the business. Fowler Hair Group’s Darren Fowler lets his team help cultivate the brand identity: “they set the values and beliefs, and they are the ones that hire and train others,” he said.
So that’s what a leader can do to help their workforce prosper, but what about what’s going on inside their own heads? Naomi Brooks, business coach and founder of The Hair Sanctuary, has an answer. “Your mindset and business are connected,” she said. “Create healthy habits like not using your phone after 9pm. Work on yourself.”
DELEGATE PROFILE
MARCO DIAS, THE STUDIO, DUBLIN
“This is my third Salon Smart – I’ve attended twice in Dublin and now I’m here in London. It’s clear that the industry is going through some serious challenges, yet the connections and camaraderie at Salon Smart reassures me that we’re all in this together. Being a salon owner can be such a lonely business, so it’s important to attend events like this and remind yourself that you’re not alone. The biggest message I’ve taken from today is the one around mental health. It’s clear that this is not a fluffy subject, it’s real and it’s difficult and we need to take responsibility for the wellbeing of our teams, as well as ourselves.”
DIVE DEEPER WITH CUSTOMER SERVICE
Women are on the front line of the cost-of-living crisis, according to Monica Teodoro, general manager of education and professional development at L’Oréal Professional Products UK and Ireland, who said that a staggering 49 per cent find it hugely concerning. But there is good news – women are unlikely to stop coming to your salon. “When asked to choose what they must drop, out of 16 choices hairdressing is the 14th,” said Monica. Referencing the financial crisis of 2008 when women bought lipstick to make themselves feel better, she told the audience: “You are the lipstick effect of the costof-living crisis. Women would rather trade clothes, make-up, and other luxury items to keep their hair appointments.”
Clients want a healthy dose of wellbeing and good vibes along with their cut and colour. Today, they value their hair appointments beyond the core service. To elevate the customer experience, think about the senses, explained Fresha’s head of brand and content, Nina Giglio. “Customers want services that make them feel good emotionally. They want to be transported from the mundane; they want rituals that enrich the mind. Offer them micro-moments of joy and embed it into your customer service.”
CAROLYN SWEENEY, CREATIONS, CHICHESTER
“I’ve been coming to Salon Smart forever – it’s fast-paced and it covers such a broad spectrum of subjects. I don’t know where else I could go to network with and meet such a wide range of people that I’ve got so much in common with. I have 28 staff members and the biggest issue I face is rising costs. I have no shortage of clients coming to my salon but they’re reducing the frequency of their visits, because everyone’s watching their purse strings. I liked what Maddi Cook had to say on pricing, and I was inspired by Nicholas Nicola talking about the consultation.”
SIMPLE SUSTAINABILITY STEPS
Good for the planet and your salon margins; sustainability can generate PR buzz around your salon and coax in new staff and clients. But it doesn’t have to cost the earth, explained BLACC + BLOND’s Anil Salhan “We’ve saved about 100,000 litres of water so far by using Ecohead showerheads. For refreshments, we stock glass bottles of water from One Water. On the client side, we gave away 10 per cent of all new client fees in our first year to plant trees. Word spreads and we have a good reputation locally. I’ve also found that stylists want to work for responsible businesses.”
TEAMWORK MEANS FAMILY AND RESPECT IN 2023
Once upon a time, teamwork meant bagging a seat with an elite crew and beating the competition. Today it’s a family affair, agreed Adam Reed and his company director Michelle Hale, as they were joined by salon team members Sam Bickle, Ash Johnson and Holly Matheson
“For a long time, the elitism of being within a team caused negative effects. If you wanted to be in an art team, for example, you often had to work longer hours and were pitched against other hairdressers,” Adam explained. But thankfully competition has been exchanged for mutually beneficial teamwork, he added: “Good teamwork is now about being open and authentic with each other. That includes having people to celebrate with and cry with!”
For Michelle, good teamwork is about respect. “We respect everybody and their individual goals and aspirations, as well as their insecurities and where they’re lacking and want to learn. You’ve got to understand that and learn how to help each other and celebrate each member of the team.”
SAMANTHA CUSICK, SAMANTHA CUSICK SALONS, LONDON
“I’ve got two salons in London and will open a third in the summer that will take my business in a whole new direction. Recruitment is the biggest challenge I’m facing – getting the right talent into my business and ensuring I have a steady stream of apprentices coming through.
“This is my first time at Salon Smart and it’s all been incredibly impressive. The amount of insight it gives into what it takes to run a hairdressing business is completely unique – I’ve been a salon owner for many years, but I’ve learnt so much today.”
CUT YOUR CARBON FOOTPRINT
As clients’ sustainability expectations grow, could it be time to take steps to reduce your salon’s carbon footprint with the Net Zero Salon Initiative?
Hair salons are hives of activity and, like all businesses up and down the high street, each one has its own carbon footprint.
Enter the solution – the Net Zero Salon Initiative, a partnership from L’Oréal Professional Products UK&I, and climate change action platform Net Zero Now. Research shows that the average salon appointment produces a whopping 3.2kg of greenhouse gas emissions.* Pause and let that sink in before you schedule your next client service.
Becoming a sustainable salon is a good moral and business decision. Recent L’Oréal research found that nearly half of British women made more sustainable choices in 2022 and 43 per cent wanted to see their hair salon become sustainable.**
What’s more, 23 per cent expect a beauty or wellness provider to commit to reducing their environmental footprint.***
An industry-first, the Net Zero Salon Initiative recommends that salons aim to reduce their carbon output to 2kg per appointment. Why? Because with more than 35,000 salons across the UKI, each salon has the power to actively make changes to positively transform our high streets.
Professional Products
This is not just talk, the Net Zero Salon Initiative is about action. Salons are in the driving seat with a salon-specific roadmap and tool for measuring, tracking, reporting, and reducing greenhouse gas emissions. It features personalised and actionable recommendations, from becoming more energy efficient to improving waste treatment and management, reducing water consumption and heating to promoting alternative transport options for staff.
In addition to the full programme, salons can access a complimentary playbook offering expert advice and guidance to support every salon – no matter where they are on their sustainability journey.
* Data from the initial Net Zero Salons Programme pilot estimates that the average salon appointment produces 3.2kg of greenhouse gas emissions. ** 2021 Salon Emotion Customer Journey, n=1004 British women and L’Oréal Net Zero Salons, You Gov, January 2023, n=1077 British women. *** L’Oréal Net Zero Salons, YouGov, January 2023, 1077 British women.
@lorealpro
“As a salon we are fully committed to sustainability and believe we all have a responsibility to care for our planet. Being part of the Net Zero Salon Initiative has provided the next step for us as a business in terms of being sustainable. We’ve gained a deeper understanding of our carbon emissions and the impact we are having as a salon, so that we can act and have a greater positive impact on our planet.”
JENNIFER LINTON, LINTON & MAC
SECURING FUTURE TALENT
Plugging the talent gap is crucial to the future of the hair industry. Edward Hemmings, creative director and director of education at Alan d Hairdressing, believes the route to your next great hire could be right in front of you. “Your future recruitment drive could be in your chair. Clients may be able to recommend people.”
“I’ve invited parents to come to the salon to talk about opportunities, and I’ve gone on local radio and led seminars,” explained Sally Montague of Sally Montague Hair Group. “I once had 500 people apply for apprenticeships from that outreach.” Steph Stevenson, founder of Kaikura and HNB Salon & Spa, is similarly proactive with recruitment, in particular for new mothers, and tries to make her workplace inviting. “We bend over backwards to accommodate mums who want to return to work, they can choose their own hours to suit them.”
For salons outside London, it could be worth asking around your local community to see what talent might be moving to the area, suggested YOKE THE SALON co-owner, Jo Dyer. “For recruiting experienced stylists, we use word-of-mouth and reach out via local businesses. We sometimes hear about stylists who are moving for a change of scene.”
When celebrity hairdresser and educator Lee Stafford took to the stage, he tackled the T Levels issue, citing them as potentially a “huge opportunity for our industry if we play it right”. He advised salon owners not to discredit T Level candidates as they could be more skilled than college leavers as it involves two years of training instead of one. They also give salons “45 days of work placement at no cost to your salon as it’s funded by the government”.
For Lee, there’s strength in numbers, and he encouraged the audience to have T Level students and apprentices on the salon floor. “Think about what assets they could all be,” he beamed. “All trained by you to be competent and confident!”
MONEY MATTERS
Times are tough; but saving on energy usage alone won’t make you profitable. To make those bills fly, price yourself right. The Boss Your Salon coach, Maddi Cook, told the audience that salons were getting it wrong with the most fundamental aspect of all – pricing. She said: “We don’t price properly in the first place, so we’ve got to start there. About 80 per cent of salons base their pricing on copying others or guesswork, it’s the blind leading the blind.”
LOOK AFTER YOURSELF FIRST
Leaders, stylists, and the wellbeing of clients is the golden triangle of a successful salon. But to run a business that prioritises wellbeing for all you must lead from the front, said wellness coach Beth Fuller. “Your team can’t be okay if you’re not okay. Look out for yourself then you can look after the rest of the team. If you’re putting your needs after everyone else, that’s called burnout.”
While Bloggs Salons’ Joe Hemmings lets his stylists create their ideal working weeks, Wildflower’s Danielle Garner does it for herself. “It’s hard to find the balance between business owner and person. Create a calendar for your dream week for your personal life, it’s not just about your job.”
For SKH’s Subrina Kidd, she takes time to speak to a therapist, which helps her remain organised and relaxed. “Remember, your team members aren’t all the same. Be open-minded and empathetic,” she said.
Once salon owners look after their own wellbeing, they can turn to the needs of their workforce. Colin McAndrew, managing director of Medusa, is doing this with flying colours. His almost inexhaustible list of team wellbeing initiatives includes paid IVF leave, financial planning advice, and raising awareness about the menopause. “It’s really created a fantastic culture,” he confirmed.
Stylists are certainly calling out for more mental health support. In fact, 40 per cent of online stylist conversations are about this, explained the general manager at L’Oréal Professionnel Paris UK and Ireland, Ann Marie Humphreys. Stylists could be bringing in extra mental health issues that need support from bosses, and they often take on the mental health burdens of their clients, too.
L’Oréal Professionnel Paris’ new mental health campaign ‘Heads Up’ will launch later this year to help.
MATTHEW SOCKALINGUM, SALON OWNER TO-BE
“After five years out I’m about to open a new salon, so I’m here to reconnect with the industry and talk to the brands that are here. Salon Smart really is the number one business event for hairdressers and an opportunity to network with people at the forefront of the industry. My new business will follow the employed model – hairdressers wanting only to be self-employed has been the biggest challenge I’ve faced so far, so I loved hearing what Lee Stafford had to say about T Levels.”
STATIONS FOR INNOVATION
At the centre of the day’s Working Lunch were the stellar brands offering delegates expert advice on running their businesses more sustainably and efficiently, alongside a showcase of some of the exciting innovations that could supercharge revenue.
Sustainability is a key concern for the industry, and Vish illustrated why its highly visual and easy-to-use app is a brilliant tool to promote mindfulness around waste. It helps stylists minimise excess colour and cuts costs, too.
Taking the pressure off the planet was a big theme on the day and L’Oréal Professionnel Paris was on hand to share its net zero mission with delegates via advice on how to measure and reduce their carbon footprint, thanks to a partnership with Net Zero Now.
Are you confident you’re prepared for whatever life might throw at your salon?
AXA talked guests through the importance of comprehensive business insurance (20 per cent off new policies was a nice treat as well!). For those looking deeper into team management and running a business during tough times, the NHBF showcased how it offers stellar support to its members.
Consumers are obsessed with K18 (just look at social media and you’ll see there are already thousands of fans!), so it was no surprise the brand’s hair science had tongues wagging at Salon Smart, too. Incredible results for hair? Yes, but the team also shared how it can be incredible for profits as well.
SPOT TRENDS, GET BOOKED
The beauty industry is booming, and hair salons are the heroes of the high street. They navigated the challenges posed by Covid, came out stronger, and grew by an awe-inspiring six per cent between March 2020 and 2022, according to a survey by the BBC.
But to maintain themselves as the winning champions, they have another challenge to crack – trends. Before you start worrying about how you’re going to track those changing customer behaviours and identify the key future trends, take a breath. Fresha’s got your back!
Fresha, the leading booking software for ambitious salons, has partnered with WGSN, the world’s leading trend forecaster. Together, they’ve gone all-in on the future of hair and beauty to offer you emerging trends knowledge in a fascinating and potentially profit-boosting report... completely free of charge!
Just think:
✓ Top-notch insights from Fresha’s booking data
✓ Leading consumer and industry trend insights from WGSN
✓ Reports about the wider economy
✓ Social media data analysis from WGSN, backed up by interviews with leading industry experts
✓ All translated into actionable takeaways
This dynamic duo has the lowdown on industry trends data and intel, so salons big and small can understand what it means for their businesses today and in the future. You don’t have to do the hard work, just reap the rewards.
Ready to become a trend mastermind and pack your calendar with bookings? Keep your eyes peeled for the report launch, coming in summer 2023!
BUILT TO GET YOU BOOKED
Along with its value-packed report, Fresha is here to empower entrepreneurs, small businesses, and single operators with its best-in-class, subscription-free booking software.
The platform is built with salons and barber shops in mind, and offers everything from smart payment processing, appointment scheduling, to marketing in just one click… and is subscription-free! Fresha means flexibility. The platform is packed with powerful free features, and you can turn its paid features on and off as you like. Free from the constraints of a subscription model, you only pay for what you use. That’s a trend we can get behind. A staggering 600 million appointments have been booked through Fresha so far. Isn’t it time your salon became a trend-setter that runs better too?
The In Crowd
Heavily inspired by the northern soul movement, alongside musical icons such as Mick Jagger and Jim Morrison, Soulboy from James Parr and Nashwhite plays on individual hair texture. Nothing feels too perfect or too done, with a slight rebellious energy to the editorial finishes
PHOTOGRAPHY BY LEE NASH-JONESTHE LAST WORD ON…
MODEL CASTING
CASTING MODELS CAN THROW UP MANY QUESTIONS. WHO SHOULD YOU BE LOOKING FOR?
Their portfolio may be stunning, but will they perform on the day? Don’t take to the streets armed with a megaphone just yet; when looking for a model think about what you’re casting for rst, explains Daniele de Angelis, TONI&GUY’s international artistic director and academy manager: “Consider whether you are casting for a show or a shoot. For a shoot, look at the model’s portfolio and their poses and looks. If they’ve been photographed from the same angle over and over, chances are that’s the same angle you will get on your shoot. If they have a variety of poses and expressions, you know they are versatile.”
Before you go full throttle into nding the perfect models, remember your brief and budget, advises Jenny Brooks, Creative HEAD’s creative partnerships manager. “Rates can vary wildly depending on whether you’re just styling or if you need to cut or colour a model’s hair, as it will impact the options open to you. If it’s the latter, be as detailed as you can, include reference pictures, and make sure any updates to the brief are communicated to the agent.”
Also, don’t forget about the extra costs, she adds. “Agencies usually add 20 per cent for their fee, so factor that into your budget per model. If you’re tighter on spend, consider new faces who are less experienced as they tend to have lower day rates. If you’re not doing an in-person casting, you can always request a video to get a gauge of con dence and personality.”
What about casting for shows? It isn’t all about looks, explains Seanhanna’s colour director Lloyd Court. “In a live show, the attitude of the model can often trump the rst-glance looks.”
Remember to also check out a model’s stomp game, advises Daniele. “At a casting ask them to bring a pair of heels and watch them walk around the room. If they can walk in heels, they are good for a catwalk show. Also consider the model’s proportions as the hair will have to be bigger than usual to be appreciated by an audience at a distance.”
It may sound obvious, but consider style suitability, advises HOB Academy’s education head, Jake Unger. “Don’t choose the haircut rst and then use any model who is willing to have it. The wow factor is all about suitability, execution and being fashionable. Ensuring all three elements are achieved will take your work to the next level.”
Once you know what you’re using models for and your vision is in place, remember the magic word – usage! “De ne where you need to use any imagery or video captured, for example print, online, social and whether you require editorial or commercial usage,” adds Jenny. “Do this in advance as it’s more costeffective. If booking through an agency, always check the terms and conditions of any model contracts, as they often state usage is for a single image unless otherwise agreed, so you’ll want to be speci c on this too.”