Creative HEAD Mr Q Volume 1

GU /AU LY JU

ST/SEPTEMBER 20 17

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NOBODY KNOWS MEN LIKE AMERICAN CREW

STYLING

HAIRCARE & BODYCARE

A wide variety of styling products to achieve any look and master every technique, including waxes, pomades, gels, creams, sprays and powders.

Paraben-free and water soluble formulas that wash out of the hair easily.

A complete range of hair & bodycare products that are designed especially for men’s skin, hair and scalps. Containing key ingredients that help to stimulate a healthy hair growth without weighing it down. Suitable for all hair types.

SHAVING & SKINCARE

COLOUR

A shaving and skincare range designed to suit every gentleman’s shaving regime.

Containing a range of essential oils and ingredients that ensure every product cares for even the most sensitive skin.

A bespoke in salon colour range that subtly blends grey from the hair to give a natural look without any element of brassiness.

Also available in back-bar formats for in salon services.

FRAGRANCE Unique, masculine fragrances that will take you from day to night.

@americancrewuk

TO STOCK AMERICAN CREW CONTACT UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com

THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS

Mr. Q

to his friends – the new Meet Mister Quarterly – Mr. Q d from Creative bran g men’s grooming and barberin ern and exciting mod very HEAD. We’re here to share a insight, trends, of full ed view on the groom boom, pack shops, the hottest er barb est debate, personalities, the cool exclusive and k wor ic boys’ toys, stunning photograph y quarter, in ever – ’s Men k access to London Fashion Wee y…

Enjo D. HEA e ativ its own magazine within Cre

GET SMART

1.

2.

3.

WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER See Dunkirk: Tom Hardy, Cillian Murphy and Harry Styles star in this Christopher Nolan-helmed WWII story of the allied evacuation from the French port in 1940.

In cinemas 21 July

Perfect your fades: London School of Barbering has a few spaces left for Clipper Fading Fundamentals, a one week course starting 24 July. londonschoolofbarbering.com

Visit Creative HEAD Education: Check out Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist, Chris Foster, as he becomes our Featured Artist for August! Throughout August, creativeheadmag.com/education

YO TO U NE ME ED ET…

welcomes you…

DAREN KENNY AKA Baldy of Baldy’s Barbers, UK lead educator for Andis

Describe yourself in five words.

Husband, father, friend, introvert, extrovert.

Why are you known as ‘Baldy’?

When I opened a new shop in 2000, I wanted to create a shop and a character. I was once handed a flyer in the late ‘80s and it said: “Who is Albert Turkey?” It made people curious so I did a similar thing: “Who is Baldy?” People then associated the name with me and Baldy was born!

What’s exciting you about British barbering right now?

I love the wave of young, talented barbers coming onto the scene.

They’ve started to push the boundaries and that makes everyone up their game. There’s a massive emphasis on styling as well as the cut.

The barber that inspired me is…

I hate to say this, because he’ll never let it go! Kieron Price, AKA Kieron

the Barber, because he taught me ‘don’t ask, don’t get’ and how to use social media to help me build my brand. I admire him greatly.

Who should we get to know?

Alan Beak has always been one of my favourite barbers, Ryan Cullen always puts a new spin on things, and I’ve always got to go classic with Frank Rimer.

If I could change one thing…

Now it’s become its own beast, I would love barbering to get the same respect and accolades as hairdressing. It’s no longer just male grooming, it’s grown into the barbering industry.

You might not know this about me… I still ride a BMX bike and I’m nearly 50 years old!

Say hello to me at… @baldysbarbers

ON THE COVER Hair by Denis Robinson, Ruffians creative director, and the Ruffians Art Team. Photography by Chris White

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54%

NEW GROOM ROOM 18Fourteen, Stanmore

of barbers’ clients aged 18 to 40 would prefer to book online or via a smartphone app, rising to 66 per cent in London SOURCE: A poll of 1,200 people by software firm Mojo and The Bluebeards Revenge

Wondering about that name? This male grooming haven uses the owners’ dates of birth to form its moniker. It prides itself on offering the solutions to men’s needs – barbering, facials, waxing, manicure, pedicure and body treatments, and clients can choose from a range of drinks including beer, coffee or even a nice single malt. Chaps can relax in luxurious Takara Belmont chairs, or on the REM couch, supplied by LSE.

Wahl is unveiling Men’s Method, a unique college training programme that combines the history of men’s hairdressing with contemporary salon techniques, with a limited number of Wahl Men’s Method UK Training Academies approved each year.

To see more, visit mensmethod.co.uk

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ON THE SHELF

BOYS’ TOYS

THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP Redesigned and reformulated, label.m’s Texture Wax Stick is now softer on contact and perfect for those who hate mess. It’s totally flexible and can be built up as needed.

With tonnes of brands in one place, Basin St from Salon Services is your new destination for essentials.

RRP £11.50 01753 612090 labelm.com

It’s not just about hair… American Crew’s All-in-One Face Balm Broad Spectrum SPF 15 helps prevent irritation from shaving and fights the signs of ageing. Just use after shaving or as a daily moisturiser.

RRP FROM £16.50 020 7391 7440 americancrew.com

From £1.99 0330 123 1907 salon-services.com

New groomers from TIGI’s Bed Head for Men include Lion Tamer beard balm and Mo Rider moustache crafter.

Neal & Wolf has unveiled five new products designed exclusively for men and male stylists. Check outs its new Alpha Club too, a unique online society to give men style advice.

RRP £12.95 each 01282 444 900 nealandwolf. com

RRP from £9.95

£84.99+VAT

0844 844 0944 bedhead.com

Breathe new life into your interior with the Horizon barber styling unit from Salon Ambience.

PROMO PRICE £847 (RRP £1,599) 07554 990965 salon ambience. com

With XTR technology and a magnetic motor, this revolutionary ProAlloy clipper from Andis is powerful and quiet. An all-round star! andis.com

Use talc in the shop to reduce skin irritation? Try The Looking for the perfect Bluebeards Revenge’s chair for your grooming Talc for Men. retreat? Then cast your eyes over the smooth lines RRP £9.99 of the Pietranera OM-X 01752 898191 Unisex Optima chair. It can bluebeardsbe upholstered in a wide revenge. selection of finishes. co.uk

£1,500 + VAT 020 8903 0002 lsehair.com

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#TRENDING Anna Chapman

KTZ S/S18

London Fashion Week Men’s Session stylist Anna Chapman has been building her portfolio with incredible men’s work ever since she won the It List Fashionista title in 2013. For S/S18, she had the opportunity to lead her first show, working with KTZ. “It was amazing to work with the brand – it is young and cool so it was really exciting to be asked to collaborate,” she says. “The collection’s inspiration came from the designers’ interpretation of the Lord of the Flies and there was a rebellious, dirty punk vibe running throughout.” Using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Pli on damp hair before using Infinium hairspray with a dryer and finishing with Tecni.

ART Density Material Wax. Anna adds: “I was so excited to lead my first show – it was a proud moment. I hope it’s just the beginning…”

Images courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel Mister Quarterly 07

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HAVING FOUNDED AMERICAN CREW 23 YEARS AGO, DAVID RACCUGLIA IS A BARBERING LEGEND. AS CREATIVE HEAD LAUNCHES MR. Q, WE ENJOYED AN EXCLUSIVE AUDIENCE WITH HIM TO DISCOVER HIS INSIGHT ON CREATING AND NURTURING A BRILLIANT MEN’S BUSINESS…

HOUSE OF

DAVID Today’s world is about having a culture you can talk about with pride. That’s what makes somebody interested in you. You have to resonate with someone’s style.

It’s very saturated now – when I launched American Crew there were almost no products on the market for men, no professional products for sure. We’re the same company we were 23 years ago.

We don’t change, we adapt.

Launching something on a shoestring today is not only possible, it’s likely. But you have to speak for your consumer.

The world is waiting for the Next Big Thing. You can communicate through social media, set up a soapbox and see it go viral potentially for nothing. There’s a certain brilliance and understanding of getting your message out there. That opportunity didn’t exist when I started; that alone gives you a leg up in this world.

You have to have something that’s going to benefit others

in order to be successful. You need a good location, a good team, skills. People look for a quality of life when choosing something like a restaurant or a salon. We want to feel at home, and if you create a barber shop that gives your customers and employees an incredible quality of life, you’ll succeed. You have to be a decent businessman to stay in business – the key to that is making more money than you spend, and making enough to live off, it’s pretty simple. But that’s not enough to make your mark somewhere. Be really good, really authentic and give your employees a good quality of life, as well as yourself.

That sounds easy, but it’s not.

The two words that make everyone – consumers and staff – happy are ‘needed’ and ‘appreciated’. It’s a huge part of the culture to get right. And the product that you create has to be authentic, it has to cut hair properly, make it better, but it’s all about giving somebody something that they want and need. Timing and understanding, there’s a lot to it.

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Men want to go to a barber shop. Is that going to go away? I doubt it. When I started American Crew, you still had old men smoking in barber shops. You had the odd amazing place, but today it’s part of our culture.

Sometimes things just come back because they were needed and they were missed. Men want that barber shop culture now – they want to go somewhere and get their hair cut in an environment that makes them feel masculine, then get out of there and hit the road. The youth of today is being raised in that culture, walking to the barber shop holding hands with their father. That memory will resonate.

You have to have passion for your idea – although ‘passionate’ is an overused word. You can be blindly passionate and clueless. It takes research and love and an understanding of history. Like anyone on a mission, you need to go on tour. You have to spread your gospel.

One of the greatest things I had was a mentor – I thought Horst Rechelbacher, [founder of Aveda] was one of the most amazing men on the planet. I idolised his life – he loved art, he was smart, he read the Wall Street Journal and he was a hairdresser.

He had a lot of good things to offer to a young, ambitious guy.

You can’t be a perfectionist. If you are, you take it personally. You have to be someone who crashes and burns then gets up and does it better. You learn from your mistakes. Everything went wrong with American Crew: products were spoiled, packaging was ruined, money wasn’t there, but at the end of the day there was always something good to fall back on. Whatever the obstacle, it never made me want to stop.

Whatever your weaknesses are, you have to fill them with somebody else. You can’t do it all on your own. Every day I look for somebody better than me to be involved with – I like to learn from people. Business is about believing so much in what you want to do that you’re stupid with the idea! You’re evangelical!

And those are the people who usually succeed.

Barbers are underrated. The men’s category doesn’t get paid what it should. Women respect what a hairdresser does, and I think they’ll pay for it and feel that they’re getting good value. Men have a poor attitude: “I’m not going to pay that”, and barbers get stuck with it.

A good craftsman in this industry deserves double what they make. A man can have a great haircut and average clothes and still look good. But he can have brilliant clothes and a lousy haircut and he’ll look terrible.

DAVID RACCUGLIA’S LIFE LESSONS “Accept change and be part of it: if you don’t, you’re dead.”

“Give back: that’s everything. You won’t have a legacy otherwise. It’s a team, a collective, a community. If you’re not creating that then you have nothing.

Nobody will be at your funeral.”

“Enjoy the process: It’s about being fulfilled, happy and challenged every day, that’s what makes you successful.”

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ALL-STAR MAN MEET ADAM MIR, THE GLOBAL AMERICAN CREW ALL STAR CHALLENGE WINNER, AS HE SHARES HIS JOURNEY FROM WOULD-BE MECHANIC TO INTERNATIONAL BARBERING SUCCESS!

Adam Mir (right) with David Raccuglia

Taylor Taylor Barbers’ Adam Mir was buzzing when he arrived in Brussels. The chance to compete on a global scale with other top barbers from around the world put fire in his belly. Here he was, at the final of the American Crew All Star Challenge, and about to shoot with brand founder and barbering legend David Raccuglia. He couldn’t wait to get going!

Based in Sheffield, Adam has been a barber for 13 years now, yet in that time had only entered one other competition – the British Barbers’ Association Classic Master in 2013 (he won, by the way). He realised it was time to test himself again, to try and “get my name out there and show the industry what I can do”, and his boss was pointing him to one contest in particular – the All Star Challenge – using a shoot they had just done.

Thank heavens, as Adam scooped the UK title and was then selected to compete at the global final in Brussels. This is an

incredible opportunity for any barber, as you are treated to a week-long masterclass on men’s grooming and photography with the American Crew senior team, including a shoot to create your competition image with David Raccuglia.

“From the moment you arrive on the shoot the atmosphere is amazing. Being surrounded by these top industry names is overwhelming,” smiles Adam. “The competition itself is very strict and professional, everything is done on a time limit. We were all very nervous but it also made it very fair for everyone.”

So how do you choose the image that will be your calling card under such time pressure? “In 10 minutes I had to get 160 images down to one, so I started by going through and marking my favourite shots,” he explains. “Eventually I got it down to three images. There were two that I couldn’t decide on. In the end I selected the image that had the better overall look… and luckily

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I was right to do so!”

Indeed, while David is there to shoot, he cannot offer any guidance or advice on that final choice. “If you’re entering All Star Challenge, the photo you submit has to show technical excellence, it can’t just be cool,” states David, the man behind the brand and the camera. “Men’s hair is getting a little longer, more textured; the shape of Adam’s model was more editorial. Everyone felt it had a nice modern balance yet still looked technically excellent.”

Adam describes the reaction to his win as “incredible”. “Just on social media alone the response has been brilliant. I’ve had people from all over the world following me, sending me messages of congratulations! I can’t thank people enough,” he says. It’s also meant stage appearances and now seeing his work published around the world.

But he’s honestly rather flummoxed on how he ended up in barbering, enjoying this level of success. “I still don’t really know, it kind of just happened,” he laughs. “All the way through school I wanted to be a mechanic until I did my work experience in a garage and realised working out in the cold wasn’t really for me, but I still didn’t know what I wanted to do! I started cutting my friends’ and family’s hair at home as a bit of a hobby and soon saw how much I enjoyed it.”

Enrolling at his local college to do barbering, he says, is the best decision he ever made. “I like every type of work, that’s the beauty of this job. No two cuts or clients are the same, every person you get in your chair is like a blank canvas waiting to be made into a masterpiece,” he says. “Early in my career I mainly did afro hair, a lot of fades and short work, but in the past few years I’ve started to enjoy working with longer, textured cuts.”

With this win he’s hoping to get into more stage work and show people what he can do. “I’ve also taken on the role of training director for Taylor Taylor Barbers and I’m really enjoying it, being able to pass on the knowledge I’ve gained.

Hopefully education is another path I can venture down. And I’d love to be an American Crew All Star educator!”

Any tips for barbers keen to make a name for themselves?

“Social media plays a massive part in the industry and it’s something I struggle with, but just take as many photos as you can and post them on social media to showcase your work,” he advises.

“Hard work and determination always pays off.”

And if you work hard, you need to play hard too! Adam is currently in the process of organising a lads’ holiday to Australia to meet up with some of his fellow All Star Challenge contestants, most of whom he’s in touch with daily, thanks to a group WhatsApp. You guys deserve it!

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LET THE GAMES BEGIN S/S18 IS PROOF THAT LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S IS AT THE FOREFRONT OF SESSION STYLING

It could once have been argued that the men’s shows were eclipsed by the women, but that is no longer the case; the past few seasons have seen the boys hold their own. London Fashion Week Men’s (formerly known as London Collections: Men) has become a hub for creative hairstyling. Gone are the days when a touch of gel was enough for the men – this season hair teams took inspiration from every corner of culture to create styles that shouted as loudly as the clothes. We picked six stand-out shows from LFWM S/S18…

PRONOUNCE

TOPMAN

BODYBOUND

Sculpture and photography were heavily referenced in this collection, so naturally hair followed suit with a graphic edge. Schwarzkopf Professional OSIS+ G.Force was run through the hair before finger waves were moulded in. Once they had set in a hair clamp, the wave was broken up using OSIS+ Soft Glam Smoothing Elixir. To seal, hair was blasted with OSIS+ Session Extreme Hold Hairspray.

A gang of ’80s club kids put on their glad rags for the Topman presentation, their hair damp with sweat as if they had spent hours dancing. Matt Mulhall began with wet hair and applied Fudge Professional Hair Gum all over. He then blow-dried and moulded the shape using more Hair Gum. Some of these New Romantics had their hair covered in glitter, and the styles were secured with Fudge Professional Skyscraper Extra.

With a collection that looked to the ‘peace and love’ movement of the ’60s, it seemed only right that the hair at Bodybound would take inspiration from a young Mick Jagger. Philipp Haug applied label.m Volume Mousse and wrap dried hair from side to side with the label.m cushion brush and tourmaline dryer. Fringes were brushed forward and separated slightly with label.m Matt Paste for just the right amount of undone rebelliousness.

TEIJI UTSUMI FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

MATT MULHALL FOR FUDGE PROFESSIONAL

PHILIPP HAUG FOR LABEL.M

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BOBBY ABLEY

CHRISTOPHER SHANNON

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

As unexpected muses go, nobody saw Teletubbies coming – and yet the ’90s retrospective at Bobby Abley felt modern and, well, cool. Yumi Nakada-Dingle prepped hair with Bb. Thickening Hairspray and blasted it dry. He then sectioned it and tied in place with elastics. Mini straighteners smoothed each section, tips were painted with Bb. Color Sticks and finished with Bb. Strong Finish Hairspray.

Christopher Shannon looked back to his teenage years, with models wearing Converse and playing video games in a make-shift living room. John Vial softened their moodiness with pastel hair colours created using Nutri Color Creme from Revlon Professional, while their just-rolled-out-of-bed styles were curated thanks to a cocktail of Revlon Professional Style Masters Hairspray and American Crew Grooming Spray.

Hearts, diamonds, clubs and spades – Vivienne Westwood’s eclectic show was based around playing card suits. The gravity-defying ‘conehead’ look started with a tight high ponytail, which was then blow-dried upwards with EIMI Perfect Setting Blow Dry Lotion. The hair was moulded into shape using plumber’s pipe, hair doughnut rings and adhesive bandages. It was finished with EIMI Texture Touch to smooth and shine.

YUMI NAKADA-DINGLE FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE

JOHN VIAL FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL

GARY GILL FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS

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SHOP TALK

POLE POSITION JACKS OF LONDON

FROM LIVE SPORTS TO A COMPLIMENTARY BAR, THIS GROUP IS A REAL PEOPLE PLEASER

Guildford Southampton

Southampton

Now with four shops in the south of England and three more on the way, as well as a training academy and its Jacks True Gent range, Jacks of London has blossomed impressively over the past two decades and shows no signs of slowing down. There’s a distinctly modern approach to the stores, the cuts and the business: you’ll find a complimentary bar, live sports and big leather sofas in all its stores. For regular clients there’s a Jacks of London Loyalty Scheme in-store (get £10 off any Jacks service after four visits), while the Jacks image card gives clients based at local businesses access to an exclusive 20 per cent discount Monday to Friday and VIP privileges. They’ve also got weddings covered with a variety of Grooming the Groom packages, and the American Crew shaving line is now at hand (the team even designed its John Lewis Oxford Street window this summer).

The staff at Jacks of London has some real gems, too – take Master Barber, Steven Gasparetto, from the Guildford shop.

Trained at Vidal Sassoon, he’s recently been nominated as a Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist and was also a finalist in the American Crew All Star Challenge.

You’ll find him on the Jacks of London Art Team, as well as heading up the training academy. No two days are the same for Jack – he could be at Milan Fashion Week one minute then taking care of tennis stars at The Queen’s Club the next!

Steven Gasparetto

WWW.BARBERSPOLE.COM

British Handmade & Bespoke Barbers Poles, Repairs & Renovations, Parts Available, Revolving & Non-Revolving, Flag Poles, Window Stickers, Neck Wool Urns, All UV Stabilized facebook.com/pages/Barberspolecom/107557662684789 twitter.com/barberspole Tel/Fax/Ans. 0121 744 3224. Mobile anytime 07973 410175 Shipping UK and Worldwide

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HM_BEARD_215X275SP_JULY17_MRQ_V1 SIZE: W 215MM X H 290MM BLEED: 5MM PRINTS: CMYK Colour Process SPEC: PDFX/1A

TO STOCK AMERICAN CREW CONTACT UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com