£4.50 OCTOBER 2015
In print•online•everywhere!
OCTOBER 2015 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
TAILOR-MADE LUXURY BECAUSE ONE SIZE DOESN’T FIT ALL
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
THE NEW STANDARD OF LUXURY Visit the British high street and you will see that the consumer experience is evolving. Inspired by the bespoke touches once more common on Bond Street – the monograms, the cuts-to-fit, the personal blends – your client can find tailor-made experiences without the couture price tag closer to home. This is a new age where luxury, personalisation and tailored services are fast becoming the standard; this is a market where the emotional experience is as vital as the end result. Clients expect detailed consultations, advice and bespoke solutions. Engage their senses, connect with them emotionally and you will create a memory that lasts… and keeps them returning for even more. Hairdressers and salons should be at the vanguard of this new luxury standard – personalisation is imperative in winning the hearts and minds of clients who crave services, advice and products that are perfect for them. Your talents can deliver an experience that will thrill and delight – and with new Fusio-Dose from Kérastase, you and your team can make every client feel special at every visit with a truly bespoke experience…
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
THIS TIME,IT’S PERSONAL REINVENT YOUR HAIR SPA SERVICES AND PUSH THE LIMITS OF PERSONALISATION
To deliver truly bespoke services to your clientele, you have to enter the mindset of the customer in your chair. Ask yourself questions and think honestly about the answers – do you feel that your clients see their visit to the salon as a duty, rather than a pampering beauty essential? Do you offer a bespoke beauty consultation to every client? How can you and your team create an environment of pleasure and personalisation that will entice clients to return regularly? New Fusio-Dose from Kérastase could be the answer…
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BESPOKE STIR UP A STORM BY CREATING A PERFECT MATCH FOR EVERY CLIENT WITH NEW FUSIO-DOSE – THE PROFESSIONAL RITUAL TAILOR-MADE TO YOUR CLIENT’S NEEDS
1. DIAGNOSE To offer sublime hair transformation, your in-depth consultation will match your client's hair desires, as well as diagnose their hair condition. Rarely will the client only have one concern, but it is likely that you can only be able to target one of their needs with an in-salon treatment. Now, with Fusio-Dose, you can mix and match; there is no need to compromise. Simply discover your client’s concerns, and fuse their bespoke Fusio-Dose treatment.
BODY SHINE STRENGTH SOFTNESS SMOOTHNESS
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
EVERY TIME 2. MIX AND FUSE Bespoke and beautiful, now you can create up to 20 tailor-made blends for your client’s needs
+
TARGET THE PRIMARY NEED WITH A FUSIO-DOSE CONCENTRÉ
TARGET THE SECONDARY NEED WITH A POWERFUL FUSIO-DOSE BOOSTER SERUM
=
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FUSE. MIX THEIR FUSIO-DOSE AND SPRAY ONTO YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR FOR INSTANT SUBLIME LOOKING HAIR
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A PERFECT FUSION ONE SHOT IS ALL IT TAKES TO BEAUTIFULLY TRANSFORM YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
WHATEVER YOUR CLIENT’S MAIN CONCERN IS, KÉRASTASE CONCENTRÉ EMULSION FORMULAS WILL MEET THEIR HAIRCARE NEED INSTANTLY
THE CONCERN Dryness
THE CONCERN Dullness
THE CONCERN Damage
THE CONCERN Lack of hair body
THE SOLUTION
THE SOLUTION
THE SOLUTION
THE SOLUTION
Concentré Pixelist
Concentré Vita-Ciment
Concentré Densifique
NOW GO A STEP FURTHER IN OFFERING A TRULY INSTANT HAIR TRANSFORMATION BY MEETING YOUR CLIENT’S SECONDARY HAIR DESIRE. PICK THEIR BOOSTER...
THE DESIRE Shine
THE DESIRE Thickness
THE DESIRE Strength
THE DESIRE Suppleness
THE DESIRE Smoothness
BOOSTER Radiance
BOOSTER Densité
BOOSTER Reinforcing
BOOSTER Nourishment
BOOSTER Manageability
WITH NEW FUSIO-DOSE, YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR WILL BE STRONGER*, LOOK SHINIER, SMOOTHER AND FEEL THICKER AND SOFTER AS IF TRANSFORMED 01_Cover Kerastase October.indd 10
*Brushing test on bleached hair with classic shampoo, Booster Reinforcing and Concentré Vita-Ciment versus classic shampoo alone
Concentré Oléo-Fusion
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WELCOME TO THE SHOW INVITE YOUR CLIENT TO WITNESS THE FUSION AND MIX OF THEIR PERSONALISED FUSIO-DOSE – THEY’LL LOVE IT! New Fusio-Dose from Kérastase is a truly personalised service that’s based on a consultation with the client to gauge precisely what they want, and need. It injects a sense of drama onto the salon floor, whether at the hair spa or at the styling station, as your clients see their personal blend fused in front of their eyes. This is theatre, no longer a task hidden at the backwash. Fusio-Dose comes alive, engaging your client in a simple yet stunning instant service that can be added to any cut or colour. With up to 20 possible combinations to create, and a new formulation that will deliver instant results, hair appears as if metamorphosed, as if transformed. They talk, you listen… and then you perform, unveiling the intelligent mixing system of new Fusio-Dose: with a simple clip, twist and mix, their Fusio-Dose treatment is fused. The final act? Et voilà! An immediate, beautiful-looking hair transformation, presented to your client by you and Kérastase. It’s time to delight your audience…
Create a perfect haircare match for your clients with new Fusio-Dose by Kérastase. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit kerastase.co.uk
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ACHIEVE SOMETHING REMARKABLE Join the rest of the hairdressing community this November and help train the next generation of hairdressers in Uganda. SIGN UP TODAY
www.magicscissors.org MEDIA PARTNER
CONCEPT +44 (0) 208 483 6443 magicscissors@lessonsforlifefoundation.org
Registered Charity 1122320
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PREPARE
&
PERFECT
There’s a brush revolution going on right here… right now. Get strength, condition, glossiness and volume like you’ve never known before with the innovative teeth technology of the detangling and blow styling brushes. For sales enquiries please call: 020 7274 6128 www.tangleteezer.com
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The best thing about Direct colours are their versatility and ease to apply. You can use them directly on the hair (no developer required), mix them together to create your own bespoke look, or mix the colours with a RUSK conditioner to create softer pastel tones. Katie Mulcahy, Rusk UK Colour Ambassador
A bold palette of vibrant shades. Get creative with these incredible intermixable colours.
• Apply directly from tube, no developer required • Use with Deepshine Hydrate Conditioner to create pastel shades • Lasts up to 20 shampoos • Ammonia-free ®
Keep your hair colour looking beautiful with this perfect post-salon care collection.
• Specially formulated for lasting colour • 3 prescriptive ranges – Hydrate, Repair and Smooth • Available in backwash and retail sizes • Mix the conditioners with Deepshine Direct Colour to create pastel shades
Available exclusively at
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For further information visit www.salon-services.com
11/09/2015 18:18
Joico Laboratories Europe B.V. | Grasbeemd 4 5705 DG Helmond | The Netherlands. Hair & color by JOICO |
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the joi of healthy h Celebrate the joi of winning Congratulations to all the Most Wanted Winners!
JOICO haircare & color products are available in salons across the UK. For more information call 084
11/08/2015 08:13
y hair call 0845 071 2326.
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— BE YOU —
CREATE SHAPE FINISH BE YOU IS THE COMPLETE FINISHING AND STYLING LINE, LETTING YOU FULLY EXPRESS A PERSONAL AND DISTINCTIVE STYLE. FOR MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT ASTON & FINCHER ON 0870 240 2176
EXCLUSIVELY DISTRIBUTED BY
I LOVE TO STAND OUT FROM THE CROWD
COLOR CRAVING Keune Color Craving is a complete range of eight colours. All ready to use in an easy pre-mixable formula. Four soft pastels and four vivid vibrants that fade gradually and beautifully with nourishing silk proteins, giving hair the treatment it deserves.
Celebrate with Keune Color Craving.
search: keuneuk www.keune.uk.com 0333 123 4411
Editor’s letter
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40 JOIN US!
AS I TYPE, we’re all still walking on air following an absolutely awesome Most Wanted and It List Grand Final – an incredible illustration of talent and inspiration, everyone there agreed it was, quite simply, the best one yet. Grab your exclusive supplement, free with this issue, to be transported back to that night – it’s a brilliant showcase that will get you fired up for entering next year (make a note now – entries can be submitted from late February 2016). We love to celebrate those who have a can-do attitude and who live to innovate, which is why we have dedicated a section of the October issue to the little guys who dream big – the independent labels who can offer your salon something that’s unique and fresh. It might be the experience garnered working backstage at iconic fashion brands such as Burberry (thanks Windle & Moodie) or a fusion of Aussie confidence and sunshine with a dollop of pure luxury (stand up, Original & Mineral) that works for your brand and client base. See if one of them speaks your language…
Amanda Nottage Editor
Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year
amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine
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creativeheadmag.com Creative HEAD Magazine App
It’s official: 2015 is the busiest year for Creative HEAD events on record! No sooner had we crowned our Most Wanted and It List stars, we were hosting the UK’s biggest hair party with Layered’s Big Hair Do. Check out full coverage in next month’s issue, or head online now. Next up: The Coterie on 19 October. Come and hear from the awe-inspiring women operating at the top of their game. Then on 10 November, The Coterie heads north for it’s third Leeds pop-up – and just look who’s talking: session stylist Syd Hayes, make-up artist Lan NguyenGrealis and Mitchell Wilson, owner of awesome Sheffield salon, Laundry. For all Coterie tickets book online at creativeheadmag.com/ thecoterie or call 01434 610933.
@creativeheadmag @creativeheadmag
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FASHION COLOUR
CT PERFER FO SALOIN ! RETA L
8 INTERMIXABLE SHADES Unlimited possibilities
Botanically infused direct dye, formulated with a blend of botanical extracts including 8 shades that can stand alone or be intermixed to create an array of endless colour combinations!
ALSO INTRODUCING TO THE UK
J BEVERLY HILLS COLOUR REVOLUTIONARY SINGLE LINE CONCEPT
features temporary, semi and permanent colour options allowing translucent, opaque or matt all from the same tube
8 SHADES INCLUDE: | lemon | hot pink | fire | sangria | turquoise | cobalt | amethyst | emerald | no mixing | no ammonia | 118ml
lL owest ammonia content of less than 1% of any professional colour available arger 100ml lL tube size
4 intermixable l9 shades infused with argan oil, black pearl powder, acai berry and aloe vera
nmatched level lU of colour intensity, vibrancy and hair conditioning step formulation l5 guarantees predictable results
To find out more about J Beverly Hills Fashion Colour and Colour Line, contact us on
UK sole distributor for exclusive brands
Serving & protecting the professional UK salon industry with innovative brands.
p to 100% grey lU coverage
www.fbilondon.co.uk
01753 44 44 44 sales@fbilondon.co.uk
October
WHAT’S INSIDE 138
116
FASHION
Glimpse the future with the Rush Workshop
TOP SHELF
The key male grooming products for your salon
134
ON THE COVER Kérastase Fusio-Dose
FREE INS THIS ISSUIDE E
PROFILE
Ena and Allilon’s Johnny Athona reveals how he does things differently
EDITOR
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
AMANDA NOTTAGE
ADAM WOOD
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.
DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY
DEPUTY EDITOR
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
BETH DAVIE
ANNA SAMSON
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
ART DIRECTOR
ADVERTISING
NICK JABBAL
LAURA TUCKER LEWIS TUCKER
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
ART GRAEME WHITE
creativeheadmag.com
16_Contents October.indd 1
DAVID HAMMOND
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
Creative HEAD Magazine
WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@headmag.co.uk
@creativeheadmag
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
23/09/2015 12:29
GI V E YOU R CL I E N T S T H E BROW S T H E Y DE SERV E Charge from ÂŁ25 for every brow treatment and get access to the complementing Make Up by HD Brows retail range. Elite training academies in Buckinghamshire, Yorkshire, Scotland and Ireland.
084 4 801 30 63 | hdbrows.com
OTERIE C E H T / AG.COM33 M D A E H 9 REATIVE K 01434 610 C E N I L O N BOOK O CALL TO BO
GIRLS! HERE COME THE
SALON, FASHION, MUSIC, CELEBRITY – HEAR FROM THE INDUSTRYʼS FIERCEST FEMALE TALENTS, EACH WITH HER OWN DISCIPLINE – ALL FLYING THE FLAG FOR WOMEN IN BRITISH HAIRDRESSING Panel members include Anna Cofone, Johanna Cree Brown, Tracie Cant, Anna Chapman, Katya Davies and Kerri Ewart
DED! JUST AD
MONDAY 19 OCTOBER 2015 7PM UNTIL 10PM ONE ALFRED PLACE, LONDON
SUPERSTAR SESSION STYLIST ZOË IRWIN WILL CHAIR THE PANEL!
TICKETS £25 EACH
Includes drinks and canapés and a free gift from HD Brows Coterie members go free
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21/09/2015 17:01
It takes just 7 SECONDS to find your
match
#fallinlovein7SECONDS @unite_hair @UNITEHAIRUK Unite.indd 3
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Your heart beats faster‌
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…you know you’ve found the
one
It’s love at first try when clients use the UNITE 7SECONDS Condition Leave-In Detangler, and there’s a whole range out there for them to fall for
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22/09/2015 12:09
Fall in love
7SEC
Your clients will instantly adore this family of five – the U
The 7SECONDS SYSTEM by UNITE is already a much-loved range (we’ve yet to meet someone who has used the 7SECONDS Condition Leave-In Detangler and doesn’t adore it), but while the detangler will always be our first love, there’s a whole 7SECONDS family for them to fall head over heels about. We give them just seven seconds...
7SECONDS Shampoo MOISTURE SHINE PROTECT
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7SECONDS Conditioner MOISTURE SHINE PROTECT
22/09/2015 12:14
ve in
ECONDS
five – the UNITE 7SECONDS SYSTEM. Here’s why…
itioner
ECT
7SECONDS Condition LEAVE IN DETANGLER
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7SECONDS Refresher DRY SHAMPOO
7SECONDS Glossing DRY THERMAL SHINE
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION Unite.indd 8
22/09/2015 12:22
Is your pulse racing yet? By now you and your clients should be crushing hard on the whole 7SECONDS system. And you can turn that infatuation into lasting love with three new additions to the 7SECONDS range – for instant moisture, shine and protection
7SECONDS Shampoo
7SECONDS Conditioner
7SECONDS Glossing
This cleanser moisturises and protects for healthy, shiny, silky hair. Your colour clients will also adore it as it locks in and protects hair colour and adds lasting shine.
This weightless but moisture-enriched conditioner makes hair super-shiny, while providing UV and thermal protection. Both the shampoo and conditioner provide instant results and are for all hair types.
This spray achieves gorgeously glossy hair in just seven seconds. The dry shine spray fights frizz, protects from heat styling and smoothes hair, while providing weightless, healthy shine.
7seconds #fallinlovein on Twitter with UNITE RUK, @UNITEHAI /UniteUK Facebook m and Instagra r @unite_hai
#fallinlovein7SECONDS Let clients fall in love with the UNITE 7SECONDS system. To find out more, call 0845 034 0770 or visit unitehair.co.uk
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The edit THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
WANT EVEN MORE? Watch the Grand Final video now – visit creativeheadmag.com/mostwanted
ARE YOU READY for the new Consumer Rights Act 2015, effective 1 October in England and Wales? Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF, explained: “It’s now crucial to have a written complaints policy and a well-defined procedure you consistently follow, backed by signposting to a certified Alternative Dispute Resolution provider.” The NHF is offering guidance on how to handle complaints as well as a template complaints policy for salons, and negotiated a ‘pay as you go’ service from a certified ADR provider for members.
Treatments are an add-on that not all clients have time for. Now you can speed up luxury with the Heat Treat Thermal Conditioning Cap, which opens up the hair cuticle to allow treatments to work more quickly. Clever!
CREATIVE HEAD
19,20_News OCT.indd 1
Adam Reed wins Hair Icon at landmark Most Wanted & It List Awards BIG, BOLD AND BUZZING! Creative HEAD’s It List and Most Wanted Awards returned to the jaw-dropping surroundings of London’s Natural History Museum, with more than 600 of the industry’s most talented hairdressers gathering for a celebration like no other. Big winners included Adam Reed, this year’s Hair Icon; Kim Rance, The It Girl; D&J Ambrose’s Luke Benson won The It Guy, and Sam McKnight was crowned a Most Wanted Legend. The irrepressible Jack Whitehall returned as host and was in fine fettle (“Ugh! For the next few hours, I have a prime view of a dinosaur’s anus,” he quipped), while emotional speeches from this year’s champions were greeted with standing ovations. On the 15th anniversary of Most Wanted (and the sixth outing for The It List), the overarching theme of the night was gratitude. Mentors were overwhelmed with emotion as rising stars took to the stage, salon teams whooped with joy and humbled hairdressing greats praised the vibrant, compassionate and fun-loving family that is the hair industry. And #MWIT15 was the sixth most tweeted hashtag on Twitter in the UK that night! Glory all round – and you can relive the magic (or pretend you were there!) by grabbing our Most Wanted and It List Grand Final 2015 supplement, free with this issue.
See all the S/S16 hair looks straight from the catwalks at creativeheadmag.com
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#CHedit MY month
AHEAD
What October has in store for...
MATT STARK STARK
I will be on stage at UNITE Global Session and I have something special planned for my presentation! Working between Stark Suite at Harrods and Stark in Essex, I’ll make some time to be with both teams. And I’m waiting for a shoot I worked on for US Glamour and Red magazine to publish.
VICKY PANTING OUTCAST HAIR
I’ll be planning and hosting an evening to celebrate our chosen charity, ‘CoppaFeel!’ as part of Breast Cancer Awareness Month. We’ll have a nurse educating clients on the importance of checking themselves correctly, a Paul Mitchell stand full of limited edition products and we’ll end by colouring clients’ hair pink!
ESTHER LAYO
WE SPEAK
STYLE! SMILE! Meet the winners of our exclusive EIMI Twitter competition in partnership with Wella Professionals, pictured clockwise from top: Georgia Fielder (Francesco Group Newport), Courtney Cochrane (Medusa), Evangeline Barrett (Blondz), Luke Robinson (RCNQ) and Helen Tacy (KH Hair). These lucky few took to social media to #SpeakEIMI, scribbling their individual takes on style, on inspiration, on what excites them every day. They each scoop a stash of EIMI products to experiment with – we can’t wait to see the results!
RUSH LAUNCHES ‘LIFE’ CAMPAIGN
20
19,20_News OCT.indd 2
After popping up in France, Russia, China and Japan, Richard Ashforth’s NOISE goes to London on 10 October. Visit noiseevent.com
SALON BRAND RUSH is unveiling Rush for Life, a new recruitment and training initiative that was inspired by its Sunday Times 100 Best Companies to Work For award in 2011. The listing was the first time a hairdressing group had been included in the prestigious survey. The brand featured at number 60, gaining an ‘outstanding’ two star status and finishing in the top three in the My Manager, My Company and Personal Growth categories. Four years in the making, the aim of Rush for Life is to recruit, train and develop personnel so that “they excel in their current role, knowing that as they grow and their life circumstances change there will be opportunities for them at Rush,” explained Andy Phouli, chairman of Rush Hair. For details, call 020 3582 2909 SEE the inspirational imagery from Rush for Life on page 138
HARE & BONE
After winning gold at Goldwell’s Color Zoom UK finals in the Creative Category in July, I will be jetting off to Las Vegas to compete for the global title for the UK. When I return, I’ll hit the ground running as I take on the Goldwell Color Specialist programme, as well as style hair for the Tom Ford S/S16 sales campaign.
WILL YOU BE THERE?
TIGI wows Vegas MORE THAN 2,000 hairdressers from across the globe descended on The Aria Resort in Las Vegas for TIGI World Release 2015. The twoday event gave guests an opportunity to see everything new TIGI has to offer, including the new Joyride by Bed Head by TIGI. The finale culminated in a rousing ovation, before the audience went on to the TIGI Neon After Party.
HAIRDRESSERS: LESSONS FOR LIFE NEEDS YOU! Lessons for Life Foundation has launched a new charity campaign, Magic Scissors, to help raise funds for a hair training programme in Uganda. Taking place in November, the campaign aims to raise £15,000. So far, Lee Stafford, Errol Douglas MBE, Trevor Sorbie MBE and Nicky Clarke OBE have signed up to the campaign, which will see hairdressers cut a client’s hair, donate their fee to Lessons for Life and then pass the scissors on to the next person. Salon owner Tony Wood, who came up with the idea, said: “Magic Scissors will help train kids in Uganda to do the thing I love.” Visit magicscissors.org
CREATIVE HEAD
23/09/2015 16:28
#CHedit WIN one of five kits on creativeheadmag.com
Structure Glamtex, provides serious height without the damage caused by backcombing.
RRP £12.95
0845 071 2326
structurehair.co.uk
Nature meets science with the new Kitoko Arte styling range, infused with African plant extracts to promote shine and health.
RRP FROM £9.95 01794 527111 asphair.com
COLOUR CLOSE-UP
Reduce the time you spend preparing foils with the 24*7 Foil Cutter Machine by Procare. It cuts and folds at the touch of a button.
SALON PRICE £99.99 0330 123 1907 Add moisture, shine and protection to hair with the new multi-tasking 7Seconds Shampoo and Conditioner from Unite.
RRP FROM £19.95 0845 034 0770 unitehair.com
Clients with uncoloured mature hair can now enhance their natural tones with the new Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Absolutes Silverwhite. The treatment delivers pure silver tones in four shades – silver, dove grey, slate grey and grey lilac – for a beautiful brightening effect that lasts for up to 25 washes.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01296 314000 schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk
salon-services.com
Elements Hair Strengthening Serum from Wella Professionals uses the natural power of plants to smooth and restore hair from the inside out.
RRP £21.99 01202 59500 wella.co.uk
Aveda Smooth Infusion Nourishing Styling Creme envelopes the hair in organic plant butters to form a barrier against humidity and fight against frizz.
RRP £22.50
0870 034 2380 aveda.co.uk
Turn up the brilliance of blonde hair with the milk_shake Sweet Camomile range, which includes a shampoo, conditioner and leave-in conditioner.
RRP FROM £12.99 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
22
22-23_Stock Options (Oct).indd 1
J beverly hills combats loss of elasticity and moisture with the Platinum styling and care collection, designed to boost and protect coloured hair.
RRP FROM £9 01753 444444 fbilondon.co.uk
La Biosthétique Classic Gel has been given a contemporary twist with sleek new packaging to match its smooth effects.
RRP £12.75
01269 611731 biosthetique.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
23/09/2015 15:32
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
STOCK
OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS EVERYONE LOVES something bespoke, so clients will adore new Kérastase Fusio-Dose. It allows you to target individual hair concerns, while delivering an express personalised service, with a generous dollop of luxury – it is Kérastase after all. Each blend is composed of a prescriptive concentrate and a booster – there are up to 20 different possible combinations to tackle everything from dullness and hair thinning to breakage and frizz, so you can be safe in the knowledge your clients are getting just what they need.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 600 0122 kerastase.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... STEAM Offer a kinder approach to heat styling with the latest edition of the L’Oréal Professionnel Steampod, which is lighter, more versatile and seals the hair cuticle for a smooth look.
RRP £170
0845 600 0122 lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
22-23_Stock Options (Oct).indd 2
This new version of the BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl uses steam to condition the hair as it sets for shiny curls that clients can reproduce again and again.
RRP £160 0370 513 3191 babylisspro.co.uk
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23/09/2015 15:32
creativeheadmag.com/shop
WANT IT? SHOP IT! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM BRINGS YOU EXCLUSIVE BRANDS, THE BEST DEALS AND THE CAN’T-LIVE-WITHOUT ESSENTIALS. WHAT’S IN YOUR BASKET? POWERED BY
EVO COLOUR FLUFFER
CORIOLISS C1 ROSE GOLD
Keep those Christmas blondes looking fabulous with this set, containing Fabuloso platinum blonde and evo water killer dry shampoo.
Straighteners are a great Christmas gift for clients – so stock the C1 Rose Gold straightener and matching brush.
For colour protection throughout Christmas! Includes Colorlast Shampoo, Conditioner and Shine Shake.
BUY IT! £11.50 SELL IT! £23
BUY IT! £39.99 SELL IT! £69.99
BUY IT! £14.25 SELL IT! £25.95
FRAMESI BY CURL
BEDHEAD BY TIGI GLOW UP
WAHL TRIMMER GIFT SET
For clients who want curl envy at the Christmas party, this set has Curl Elevator Cream and Wavy Spray.
Give clients mega volume and shine with this collection from Bedhead by TIGI, including Motor Mouth and Masterpiece.
A bumper pack to keep all your male clients’ hair in check, with a nasal trimmer, moustache comb and more!
BUY IT! FROM £8.99 SELL IT! £16.99
BUY IT! £11.50 SELL IT! £20.95
BUY IT! £16.66 SELL IT! £39.99
*Matrix is available in the following stores only: Barnstaple, Birmingham, Bristol, Cardiff, Coventry, Hall Green, Leicester, London, Newton Abbot, Plymouth, Swansea, Swindon, Truro, Wrexham and Yeovil. All prices exclude VAT
Hello, Christmas!
MATRIX* BIOLAGE COLORLAST
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/SHOP 24
24_Shop Online Oct.indd 1
CREATIVE HEAD
21/09/2015 16:22
#CHedit Sque ezing in a shoot for ShortList
Kit at the ready!
The paps outside Claridg e’s
Last minute Cara
In the frame Unite European art director, Daniel Jordan, styles up Jodie Kidd and goes on tour with Cara Delevingne SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your hair world? Tweet us @creativeheadmag
I’m on the MailOnline!
A warm welcome in Madrid from 20th Century Fox
Som e downtim e in Berlin Cara hits the red carpet! Why did you want to be a hairdresser? I took A-Levels in fashion and fine art, which are huge passions of mine, and discovered the fusion of hair, fashion, art and design.
RISING STAR
What have been your highlights so far? My biggest highlight has
to be our L’Oréal Colour Trophy win this summer, as I was the colourist for our team. It was such an achievement and showed hard work and commitment pays off. What would be your dream hairdressing gig? A Burberry campaign as I love its classic work
With Ellie Gouldi ng at Naked Heart Fund Fair
Styling Jodie Kidd for the Naked Heart Fund Fair
with an edge – modelled by Cara Delevingne, she’s so versatile – and photographed by Mario Testino, whose work and creativity I adore. Where do you see yourself in 10 years time? I want to be successful and working much more in session, campaign and
editorial work, as that’s where I get my biggest buzz. I would love my own business, to have the chance to train young, aspiring hairdressers and help them use their creativity to achieve their dreams by giving them exciting opportunities such as those I’ve enjoyed from my salon.
NAME: LUCY POTTER AGE: 23 SALON: ABACUS HAIR, BEWDLEY
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#CHedit
Inside story LINTON & MAC ABERDEEN
NORTH MEETS SOUTH at Linton & Mac, a new salon that brings the cool of the capital up to Scotland. Creative directors Jennifer Linton and Joanna Macdonald spent two months creating a space that would “bring the London style of hair salons to the city” and combine cool neutrals with colourful accents. Polaroid snapshots of the 11 staff members adorn the walls, Russian Babushka dolls perch on shelves and neon tube lights (spelling out the salon name) provide a touch of kitsch. With sleek wooden furniture custom-designed by Colin Parker and retro ’70s-style chairs, the eight-station styling bar provides a sociable space for gossiping while clients have a treatment. For thirsty clients who fancy a tipple with their cut, there is a refreshment list that includes craft beers and artisan gins.
HOT BUYS OUT OF THIS WORLD
A barbering staple for more than five decades, Apollo 2 is a true furniture icon. So meet Apollo Elite, built for modern hairdressing, male grooming and beauty salons. The timeless design principles are still there and there are two colour options to freshen up any salon. Price: £1,850+VAT 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk
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now open BLO BAR BUCKHURST HILL
Former Saks creative director, Alison Dace, goes for full-on glamour with this hair and beauty bar in the heart of Essex.
CREATIVE HEAD
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Perfection, refined. London Head Office / Showroom: T: +44 (0)20 7515 0333 E: hairdressing@takara.co.uk
#tbuk www.takarahairdressing.co.uk
Adria II
IT’S COMING! GREAT MINDS. BIG IDEAS. POWERFUL STORIES.
GROW YOUR SALON BUSINESS
1Ye0 ars
20-21 MARCH 2016 Park Plaza Riverbank Hotel, London
Book day passes online at creativeheadmag.com/store
BOOK NOW 01434 610944 creativeheadmag.com/salonsmart
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WEEKEND PASS £210
Sunday 20 and Monday 21 March Includes the full two-day business programme, three-course dinner with wine, live hair show, overnight 4-star accomodation, breakfast, lunch and all refreshments Based on two people sharing a twin/double room. £50 single room supplement applies
DAY PASS £99 Monday 21 March Includes the Monday business programme, lunch and all refreshments
Inspiring speakers Practical workshops Case studies Q&A sessions NEW! Showcase Non-stop networking
HEAR FROM THEM ALL Marcus Allen, Harrods Urban Retreat Nick Clark, 93ft Mitchell Wilson, Laundry Nicky Clarke OBE George’s Hairdressing Simon Harris, growth accelerator coach Percy & Reed Lee Stafford Ken West, 3•6•5 Education Abby and Karly Whittaker, Sarah Hodge Group More names to be announced
PRESENTED BY
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
SPONSORED BY
THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE
THE SALON
KAIN LAWRENCE Q HAIR AND BEAUTY
You have to cover every single base for booking. If you call a restaurant to book and there’s no answer, chances are you’ll move on. If you have one of those situations happen each day, every week for a year, this could be costing you more than £11,000 a year in lost bookings! Research your system, use it yourself and see how it makes you feel. Take notes, what did you like, did a selection seem confusing and how many clicks did it take from start to end? We have between three to five online bookings each day. There will be salons with more, but also some with less – it’s about how much money you could have been losing. We award 100 points (equivalent to £1) each time a guest books online. It’s a negligible loss per appointment, but for those booking online, they’re earning loyalty points to spend in salon. We then have fewer phone calls, which may give you extra time with a client.
WHY ARE SO FEW SALONS USING ONLINE BOOKINGS? IN A DIGITAL AGE, it might seem surprising to know that only 12 per cent of hair and beauty venues use salon management software to offer online bookings, according to Wahanda. Yet the site claims that salons joining it can see an average increase in bookings of around 25 per cent. So are digi-phobic salons missing out? “We usually have at least 10 online bookings per week, per salon, and they account for about £1,000 to £2,000 takings each,” says Debbie McMenamin, manager at KH Hair West Bridgford and Nottingham salons. “Clients love it because of the convenience; once you’ve done it your details and history are stored so it’s easy to book again. About 80 per cent of bookings are made out of hours.” Are guests who book online more likely to just not show up? The no-show rate for internet bookings is no worse than one made via phone according to i-Salon; however confirming the online appointment with a text can reduce no-shows by up to 55 per cent. Taking a deposit online can reduce noshows by another 15 per cent, and pushing last minute availability can reduce gaps by a further 15 per cent. Mova’s Giuseppe Vaccaro says 50 per cent of his salon’s appointments are now booked online. “We never have any issues with clients not turning up; the whole process is simplified as our booking software sends
automated reminders 24 hours prior to the appointment,” he says. “Pretty soon customers are going to want to book an appointment from their smart watch and for us it’s a case of how do we offer that service while still retaining our brand presence?” There’s no doubt a software system can be coolly efficient, but those resisting online booking are doing so because of a lack of control over the experience. The Chapel’s Toby Dicker, a tech-savvy salon brand, has “consistently rejected” using online bookings on the basis that the systems available do not offer a great customer experience. “Every time we implement any new technology, the first question we ask is ‘Would I like to use this?’” Caroline Sanderson, founder of Ego Hair Design and Most Wanted Business Thinker of 2015, has resisted online bookings so far, saying: “We have so many packages and deals that we fear front of house would spend more time cleaning up mistakes.” Idlewild Hair’s Mark Creed is about to go live with online booking. “Clients have been requesting it for two years; we have taken our time to research, load personal information onto the software and personalise our salon appointment system,” he explains. “It’s cloudbased software to enable us to access our appointment information from any device and we can still operate seamlessly even if our insalon hardware fails.”
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
Join the specialists Become a true colour master with L’Oréal Professionnel L’Oréal Professionnel Colour Specialist WHEN IS IT? Throughout the year HOW LONG IS IT? 15 days WHERE IS IT? Courses in Belfast, Edinburgh, Leeds, London and Manchester WHAT DOES IT COVER? It aims to create legendary colourists with all the skills and knowledge they need to overcome any colour challenge and client need, as well as create the confidence to gain new clients and upgrade services. Upon completion, your Colour Specialist will have a full understanding of hair pigment, a complete technical understanding of colour and how to communicate colour services to the client, making them the perfect colour ambassador for your salon.
“Having Colour Specialists in each salon has taken our colour services to a new level. It has proven to be one of the most rewarding educational programmes for our company. It has instilled more knowledge and confidence within the team to produce the perfect colour results to suit all our clients’ personal styles”
L’Oréal Professionnel Inspiration Colour Congress
ALAN EDWARDS, ALAN EDWARDS SALONS
L’Oréal Professionnel A-List WHEN IS IT? Throughout the year HOW LONG IS IT? One-day courses WHERE IS IT? London, Manchester, Leeds, Belfast, Edinburgh and Dublin WHAT DOES IT COVER? The A-list programme is designed to keep the Colour Specialist upto-date with new launches and innovations. This personalised programme covers artistic excellence and technical knowledge in a unique community of experts. All specialists need to do is register as soon as they finish their course and they will automatically join the programme.
WHO IS IT FOR? Colour Specialists that are part of the A-List WHEN IS IT? 8 and 9 November 2015 HOW LONG IS IT? Two days WHERE IS IT? Ace Hotel, London WHAT DOES IT COVER? New for 2015, attendees will gain first-hand knowledge from industry colour experts and icons. They will also witness trend predictions for the seasons ahead and be the first to find hear about education launches for 2016. An evening network reception and dinner will follow, making this a truly unforgettable two days.
Want to be an expert in colour? Become a Colour Specialist. Speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel technical consultant, call 0800 028 3448 or email intacademy@loreal.com CREATIVE HEAD
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LIFE LESSONS
WANTED: 1/2 A HAIRDRESSER WHY ARE SO MANY STYLISTS WARY OF DOING MEN’S HAIR, ASKS KEN WEST
KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5
TONY WOOD TONY WOOD HAIRDRESSING, HAMPSHIRE
Education is king. Training stylists and teachers has been my passion for more than a decade, and travelling the UK, it dawned on me how the inspiration we share here could be used further afield. There are people all over the world who could use our knowledge. There’s a time to give back. After hairdressing for more than 30 years and owning a salon for 25, it was time for me to step back from behind the chair. Magic Scissors asks hairdressers to cut someone’s hair and donate the fee to Lessons for Life Foundation. The money supports the training of stylists in Uganda. Look to the next generation. If we all pulled together, doing just a little of what we love, we could actually achieve something very special. To get involved, visit magicscissors.org
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EVEN THOUGH there seems to be a shortage of stylists at the moment, I don’t often see this advert being used by many salons. Correct me if I’m wrong, but many of the certificated training programmes in our industry are producing exactly that. They are taking trainees to the point where they are halfway ready to run a full service column and then patting them on the back, giving them a certificate and sending them off into a market where salons have to finish off the job. Imagine if trainee electricians were taught how to install wiring but not how to connect up fuse boards, or trainee plumbers were taught how to fix taps but not toilets – how bizarre would that be? So why am I discussing this? Because currently there is a fabulous opportunity that many stylists simply cannot grab. It’s one that many are scared of or simply do not have the skills required. Yet this is an opportunity to potentially grab half of the population. When I was trained, the world contained both men and women, and I don’t believe nature has changed that. So I learned to cut the hair of both; after all that seemed logical – why would I want to be half a hairdresser? When ‘unisex’ salons became commonplace – and I wish there was a better description
than the word ‘unisex’ – stylists cut the hair of every client, male and female. The fastest growing sector in our industry today is male grooming and yet many stylists have never learnt barbering. They can’t use clippers, they can’t scissor over comb without leaving lines that need to be blended away using texturising shears, and heaven forbid they should ever pick up a razor. Men are increasingly aware of their image and the current fashion is for beautiful, strong, masculine looks created using classic barbering techniques – skills the industry finds itself lacking in. While many salons heavily discount women’s cuts, to the point where they struggle to make a profit, there is a massive market of men willing to pay £40 and more for quality barbering. But when I say quality, I mean it. You can only charge these prices if your barbering skills are amazing. There is only one way to master these skills: learn from an expert and then practise until your arms ache. Then, and only then, will you be a complete hairdresser. And if you think there aren’t lots of men happy to pay over £40 then think again. I spent £40 today, not in central London but in Epsom in Surrey. But boy, was my stylist good at scissor over comb! TO SEE MORE on male grooming, turn to page 116
WANT TO ASK KEN A QUESTION? Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
23/09/2015 11:57
#BusinessEdit
‘APPRENTICESHIP’ TO BE PROTECTED
OWNERS PLAN TO IGNORE
SUNDAY TRADING BOOST MORE THAN EIGHT out of 10 salon owners plan to resist pressure on their high streets to open on Sundays, even if increased opening hours becomes more commonplace under government proposals. The government in September consulted on its plans, announced in the Budget, to extend Sunday trading hours in England and Wales. An NHF poll of members carried out as part of its submission to that consultation found more than 80 per cent of salon owners are adamant they were not considering opening on Sundays, although 13 per cent of salons currently did do so. However, salon owners by and large agreed that Sunday trading was on the increase in the hair and beauty industry. Of those that did open on a Sunday, the main reasons were to keep clients happy and to gain more business. For those who stayed shut, the primary reason seemed to be safeguarding a bit of personal or family time. Many respondents were sceptical how much extra business they would get from opening on a Sunday. “We experimented with Sunday trading, but we found it spread our Saturday clients over two days, so we suffered increased costs and no additional income,” said Steven Bannister from The Daisy Chain Hair & Beauty in Gillingham. But David Rae, from David Rae Salons in Orpington, added: “I first opened on a Sunday five years ago. I can’t express enough how Sundays have increased my sales. Sundays are the new Saturday.”
Warning of ‘death’ of the Saturday job FOR MANY SALON OWNERS, getting a Saturday job in their local salon was what first sparked their passion for the industry. But a government report has warned the number of teenagers now prepared to take on a Saturday or part-time job is plummeting. The UK Commission for Employment and Skills (UKCES) warned that the number of 16 to 17 year olds prepared to combine part-time work with school or college studies has more than halved in the past two decades. Whereas in 1996, 42 per cent of such youngsters were combining school with work, last year this had plummeted to 18 per cent, a decline of 57 per cent. The UKCES highlighted three key factors behind this. First, there has been a significant increase in the number of 16 to 17 year olds carrying on into full-time education and, second, schools, parents and children themselves are putting more emphasis on exams and testing, meaning many young people feel under greater pressure and therefore cannot afford the “distraction” of a Saturday job. Finally, there has been a decline in the number of job opportunities for young people.
TRAINING PROVIDERS will no longer be able to call in-house training courses apprenticeships unless that is what they actually are, as the government is protecting the term “apprenticeship” by law. The move, announced by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills, means if a training provider offers an “apprenticeship”, the training will have to last for at least one year, lead to a recognised qualification and the trainee must be paid either the apprentice wage or their appropriate age-based minimum wage rate. The decision is designed to ensure trainees and employers are not misled by poor quality courses marketed as apprenticeships that in fact are not, the government has said. Under the new Enterprise Bill the government will also gain extra powers to take action when the term is misused to promote low-quality courses, it has warned. The apprentice wage has risen to £3.30 an hour, but will still only apply to apprentices aged 16 to 18 or aged 19 or over and in an apprentice’s first year.
LAST CALL FOR BRITAIN’S BEST AWARDS! THE DEADLINE for this year’s NHF Britain’s Best competition, sponsored by qualifications body ITEC, is fast approaching, with a closing date on 6 November. The competition will be held at the Heritage Motor Centre in Gaydon, Warwickshire on Sunday 15 November Britain’s Best is open to hair and beauty professionals working at any level as well as students and trainees. NHF member salons and non-member salons can both enter across 12 categories. Want to know more? Download an application form at britainsbest.me
For more information and to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD
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BECAUSE YOU DESERVE EVEN MORE...
DOWNLOAD THE NEW IPAD ISSUE OF CREATIVE HEAD FREE AND EXCLUSIVE ON THE CREATIVE HEAD APP
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ZKOPF A SCHWAR LEX NAL FIBREP PROFESSIO 113! , WORTH £ STARTER KIT VISIT TO ENTER, EADMAG. CREATIVEH COM/IPAD
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WANT TO MAKE ALL WOMEN THIS HAPPY? NOW YOU CAN! SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S PORTFOLIO OF PRODUCTS IS DESIGNED TO PROVIDE A HOLISTIC APPROACH TO MATURE WOMEN’S HAIR. FIND OUT WHY YOU NEED TO BE THE DEDICATED HAIR EXPERT FOR THE OLDER HAIRCARE AND COLOUR MARKET
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
2020
By , they’ll be spending $13 trillion (£8.3 trillion) on consumer products
By
2050, there will be three billion of them worldwide
In the next decade, they will drive 65 per cent of the beauty industry’s growth
They already go to a hairdresser 10 times a year – 50 per cent more than any other demographic
And they don’t have their own dedicated hair experts – yet Who are they? They’re women aged 50 and over –
and they’re your best clients
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
THEY WANT… …TO LOOK LIKE THEY FEEL, WHETHER THAT’S NATURALLY BEAUTIFUL OR GROOMED AND CLASSY. WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S PORTFOLIO OF PRODUCTS YOU WILL HAVE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO MAKE A CLIENT’S DREAM COME TRUE
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FROM CÉLINE AND SAINT LAURENT campaigns to the red carpet looks of Helen Mirren and Meryl Streep, there’s an increased pride in embracing age. And with age comes buying power. But this group isn’t looking for just anything. Their expectations are higher and they demand the best. But in reality, all they get is coverage. Which is why Schwarzkopf Professional’s ranges of haircare and colour products are designed to provide a targeted and holistic approach to mature women’s hair needs. So what are you waiting for? Become the expert they are looking for and gain a whole new clientele – for life. Whether your mature clients wish to cover or embrace their grey, Schwarzkopf Professional brings your expertise in mature hair to a whole new level with holistic in-salon colour and care services based on high-performing technologies and tailor-made solutions.
22/09/2015 12:32
FOR GREY COVERAGE GIVE THEM IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES
These unique shades feature Pro-Age-Complex with Siliamine and collagen and provide absolute coverage and extra care for mature hair. IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES 100 per cent coverage with no compromise in intense fashion tones. IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES AGE BLEND 100 per cent coverage with softer, skin tone-matching shades for a flattering, natural-looking result.
CARE FOR COLOURED HAIR GIVE THEM BC EXCELLIUM
The first holistic haircare system powered by Q10+ is specially developed to fight signs of ageing and to deliver the most precise care solutions for coarse or thin, mature coloured hair. BC EXCELLIUM provides: • Colour protection and taming of coarse and wiry hair with Omega 3. • Colour protection and volumising of fine and thin hair with collagen.
CARE FOR COLOURED MATURE COARSE HAIR
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CARE FOR COLOURED MATURE FINE HAIR
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
EMBRACING THE GREY GIVE THEM IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES SILVERWHITE
Featuring Pro-Age-Complex with Siliamine and collagen, the four Tonal Refiners and one Brightening Spray enhance natural silver and white hair, with minimal commitment. The in-salon services provide: • Instant anti-yellow effect. • Ultimate brightening. • Pure silver tones with intense light reflection.
CARE FOR WHITE AND SILVER HAIR GIVE THEM BC EXCELLIUM
A complete haircare system powered by Q10+ and black pearl extract specially developed to: • Enhance and beautify stunning silver looks. • Answer the specific needs of fine and coarse silver white hair.
CARE FOR WHITE AND SILVER HAIR NEEDS
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THEY KNOW WHAT THEY WANT…
…MATURE CLIENTS EXPECT A TARGETED AND HOLISTIC APPROACH TO THEIR HAIR COLOUR NEEDS. AND YOU CAN BE THEIR NEW EXPERT, WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL’S COMPREHENSIVE PRODUCT RANGES For more details, call 01442 278000 (UK) or 01 661 0415 (ROI), visit schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk or facebook.com/schwarzkopfprofessionalunitedkingdom
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#BusinessEdit BUSINESS
barometer
Top tips
NEVER STOP LEARNING
EVERY DAY’S A SCHOOL DAY – hairdressing is an industry where there’s always something new to learn, but for some it’s on a more ad-hoc basis than a plan for the whole team. And of course, it costs money, and when things are tight, it’s often the education budget that is the first to be sacrificed. It was heart-warming, then, to see that all of those on our panel professed to having a structured education plan in place, with the vast majority attending courses hosted by manufacturers, too. It was also cheering to see that any education is filtered down to the whole team. “Our employees must share and demonstrate what they’ve learnt on the courses they’ve attended,” says Alison Wilkes of Francesco Group Wolverhampton, while John Oliver Hair’s Jason Ball, adds: “We have an evening where staff show what they’ve learned on a course to the other staff – the last one we had was bridal hair.” For some salon owners, education is an integral part of the brand’s strategy. “I’m in the process of setting up my own academy,” says Beverley Bates from The Retreat. “Education has always been my top priority and, as an educator myself, the teacher always learns the most. It’s the biggest motivator for a team and paramount to businesses gaining success in the fast-moving fashion industry.”
86%
ATTEND MANUFACTURERS’ EDUCATION COURSES
100% OF SALON OWNERS
55%
HAVE A STRUCTURED EDUCATION PLAN IN PLACE
ATTEND WHOLESALERS’ EDUCATION COURSES
CATION COURSES AND 100% OF RESPONDENTS BOOK EDU COURSES A YEAR OF THOSE, 82% BOOK FIVE OR MORE
AUGUST 2015
How was business in August compared with July 2015?
How was business in August 2015 compared with August 2014? DECLINING STEADY
GROWING
DECLINING
9%
9%
36%
36%
GROWING STEADY
28%
CREATIVE HEAD
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82%
IF ONLY...
Have you ever looked at your colour brand and thought ‘if only...?’ If only those reds were brighter, if only those browns were deeper, if only my brand did what this new brand does. The truth can often be that it does, you just don’t know it! Regular training, updating skills and keeping your team on the cutting edge is essential if you want to keep ahead of the game. However, some of us don’t consider refreshing our skills on a regular basis. Rather than the expense of replacing your colour brand, maintaining your knowledge base by undertaking regular training with your existing brand can pay dividends. It will ensure that you are up-todate with the latest products, techniques and trends. Help to refresh your existing skills and re-energise your staff. And the same goes for salon software. Are you getting the most from it and using it to its full potential? Rather than replacing one system for another, why not refresh your knowledge? Software is one of the most important tools in your salon and can improve your client’s experience tenfold when used correctly. It can open your mind to new techniques in marketing and in technology, so you don’t get left behind. Customers respond to energy, passion and excitement. Your enthusiasm is contagious, with clients feeling safe knowing that you are a master of your craft who loves what you do. With all this knowledge you can introduce new techniques, ideas or services and continue to wow your clients, never leaving them thinking: ‘if only...’
Gregory Saunders, salon and spa consultant at Premier Software
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
YOUR EXCLUSIVE SNAPSHOT INTO UK SALON PERFORMANCE, IN ASSOCIATION WITH PREMIER SOFTWARE
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COLOUR
! T I E C A R B M E
DECODE D This issue, we take a look at the latest Essential Looks collection from Schwarzkopf Professional – The Age of Beauty, devoted to the individual styling preferences of mature consumers and offering techniques and products that are especially adapted to the changing needs of their hair.
Exclusively in Creative HEAD, Colour Decoded is set to crack the colour code. The dynamic duo of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Global Colour Ambassador Lesley Jennison and Head of Education and Events Stephen McDowell are on hand to guide you through all things colour for 2015. With helpful hints and tips from our colour gurus in partnership with Schwarzkopf’s leading trend collections and product innovation, Colour Decoded is guaranteed to arm you with all the information you need to be on trend and deliver every client’s dream colour.
Stephen McDowell As head of technical for Schwarzkopf Professional, Stephen is the creative force responsible for training, inspiring and educating stylists across the UK and Ireland. Lesley Jennison Her radical vision and flair for colour took her from Vidal Sassoon apprenticeship to global recognition and has made her the ‘go to’ name on every celebrity’s lips for unsurpassed colour genius.
SILVER
Glory TREND 1: SILVER GLORY
The Silver Glory trend focuses on timeless classics that consumers love for their elegance and detail. Classic and timeless: these qualities are present throughout the trend. With IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES SILVERWHITE, Silver Glory celebrates mature, grey hair and emphasises the beauty of our natural hair colour. Refined with silver accents, grey tones take on a fresh, new shine - the result is colour perfection! Combined with classic cuts like an elegant bob or styled high, grey hair doesn’t have to stick to the rules – it can take on all shapes and nuances.
LES LEY ’S TIP Working with Colour Me Beautiful – the international leader in image consultation for over 30 years – we have developed an exclusive consultation tool to help you establish your client’s colour type and select the perfect Igora shade for them. Cross-reference with their white hair percentage to see which sub-ranges will work best.
V I S I T U S AT S K P - E L I T E . C O M / C O L O U R - D E C O D E D
Colour Consultation Tool
LAYERED
Chic
TREND 2: LAYERED CHIC Layered Chic is a bold, yet simple fashion statement. Whether it’s cool short styles or luxuriously long manes, a unique, expressive style is guaranteed. IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES shades offer maximum grey coverage and warm tones for the perfect colour accompaniment. Combinations of shades work in harmony together with lighter tones used at the front to create a face framing effect. Simple, pared down shapes, layered to achieve loose textures and a casual look on both shorter and longer hair. The look can also be blow-dried smooth for a high look that speaks expensive, luxe hair.
LES LEY ’S TIP
Use Igora Royal Absolutes shades in colour combinations of both richer and lighter tones working in harmony. Lighter tonal shades are used around the front to frame the face for a natural, stylish look.
HERITAGE
Blend
TREND 3: HERITAGE BLEND This is a style with a statement, without putting on an act. Alongside cool styles and modern, structured shapes, the right hair colour will also guarantee that sought-after natural look. Since hair loses its shine and youthful vigour as we age, IGORA ROYAL ABSOLUTES AGE BLEND restores mature hair’s natural glow. Confident, unique and style-conscious – that’s the new attitude to life for mature women! Casually tousled modern textures are styled for fullness and body. Designed for easy maintenance and maximum effect.
LES LEY ’S TIP Use Igora Royal Absolutes Age Blend on your clients natural hair colour to blend different shades and tones for a natural-looking radiance that complements both hair and skin. The 10 new shades blend in with the natural hair colour and leave it with a gorgeous shine. This natural look especially suits a more mature complexion, which often gets lighter with age.
Scene COME together
Robert Cromeans
THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!
IN THE SUN dappled locale of Madrid was a new first for Paul Mitchell – a Global Gathering event outside of the US. More than 1,000 attendees flew in from as far afield as Russia, South Africa and Mexico. Co-founder John Paul DeJoria welcomed everyone by further committing the brand’s promise to stay professionalonly for 350 years. What followed was a stunning opening show that saw the beauty of new launch Marula Oil (watch this space in early 2016) and Paul Mitchell’s new collection, Liquid Motion (see page 68), brought to life by its the color XG line. Missing was co-owner Angus Mitchell, but he was at home with his new baby, four-month-old Dylan, a new generation of Mitchells to carry on the famous hairdressing name. There followed two days of classes and inspiration with the likes of education head Stephanie Kocielski, colour genius Linda Yodice, cutting master Takashi and editorial director Lucie Doughty. Oh, and not to mention artistic director Robert Cromeans, the ever-present star of the Paul Mitchell world, heading up workshops and mesmerising in the finale show with equal aplomb. The latter brought us headless models in trench coats and blindingly innovative instant colour masterpieces. Chuck in the iconic Paul Mitchell White Party to boot, and we were in Spanish heaven. Its back to Las Vegas next summer, but who knows, Europe might just play host again in the future...
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Linda Yodice
Takashi
Stephanie Kocielski
John Paul DeJoria
Lucie Doughty
Angelo Seminara Silvio Hauke Edoardo Paludo
CENTRE stage
Johnny Athona of Allilon Education
Hair takes
WE CAN’T THINK OF A BETTER PLACE to hold a show as exhilarating as the 2015 Davines Hair on Stage than London’s Central Saint Martins. It’s ground zero for all things fashion and creativity and the venue played a key role in the event, as guests were given the opportunity to walk through The Crafts – an Allilon Education platform for the world of arts – before going on to enjoy the main event. Mike Beauchamp, Davines UK country manager, opened proceedings with a warm welcome, before the Allilon Education Art Team took to the stage to present its latest collection, Reverie, inspired by artist Emily Tan. Next up was the Blue Tit Art Team, led by directors Perry Patraszewski and Andi Hinteregger, with a show inspired by different senses. After that, Silvio Hauke from Blue Tit, Bec Sun from Pimps & Pin Ups and Francesca Amantis from Seed battled it out for their own show at next year’s Hair on Stage UK, with Silvio scooping the prize with his avant-garde colour look. Last – but by no means least – was Davines artistic director, Angelo Seminara, and international creative colour ambassador, Edoardo Paludo, who closed the show by revealing the Davines Goldess collection – which you can see in next month’s Creative HEAD!
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Jonathan Corby of Allilon Education
Pedro Inchenko and Madeleine Murphy of Allilon Education
Bradley Stratton of Blue Tit
Mike Beauchamp
Francesca Amantis
Andi Hinteregger
Allilon Education collection
Supporting hair & beauty professionals throughout the UK your
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ne | Mobile In Store | Online | Telepho salon-services.com
+44 (0) 800 980 9961
trade card information‌ traderd ca advantage of the exclusive benefits of being a Trade Card Take you r
holder and enjoy our trade prices, discounts and promotions. Ask in store for more details on how to apply or to pick up an application form* 21/02/2014 16:08
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• Everything you need – Over 5,000 carefully selected products, including leading suppliers and exclusive brands • Wherever you are – Over 250 stores nationwide, call 0845 601 4861 or shop online at salon-services.com • Offering you more – Offers and promotions including regular VAT free events
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LET’S TAKE YOU’VE GOT THE POWER TO TRANSFORM YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR
THEY WANT:
SMOOTHNESS
GIVE THEM: KERASILK CONTROL Smooth and soft hair that lasts was once hair’s Holy Grail, but now it’s a reality with Kerasilk Control. Thermal-activated KeraShape Technology interacts with the hair’s structure, reshaping and smoothing unmanageable and frizzy hair. Waves are reduced and your clients can enjoy smoothness for up to five months.* *In combination with Control Kerasilk Treatment
THEY WANT:
HEALTH AND VITALITY GIVE THEM: KERASILK RECONSTRUCT
Healthy-looking hair is a must-have as consumers look to radiate a sense of wellbeing. Using keratin and Hyaloveil, Kerasilk Reconstruct actively interacts with the hair’s structure to nourish and reconstruct stressed and damaged hair, repairing and softening hair for up to 10 washes.* *In combination with Reconstruct Intensive Repair Treatment
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
CONTROL WITH THESE FIVE NEW KERASILK SERVICES FROM GOLDWELL
THEY WANT:
THICKNESS
GIVE THEM: KERASILK ANTI-HAIRLOSS Offer your clients that suffer from hair loss Kerasilk Anti-Hairloss. This stimulating in-salon service strengthens and increases the density of hair using Procapil and t-Flavanone.* *In combination with regular use of Repower Intensive Anti-Hairloss Treatment
THEY WANT:
VOLUME
GIVE THEM: KERASILK REPOWER Hair with height and bountiful body will always be on a client’s wish list. Kerasilk Repower interacts with the hair to boost volume for up to 10 washes.* *In combination with Repower Intensive Volume Treatment
THEY WANT:
COLOUR REVITALISATION GIVE THEM: KERASILK COLOR
Beautiful colour deserves the very best care so that it can be prolonged and loved even longer by your clients. Kerasilk Color is a beautifying in-salon service that uses keratin and tamanu oil to keep coloured hair brilliantly shiny. The result? Hair colour is protected for up to six weeks.* *In combination with Color Finishing Cream Serum
Transform your clients’ hair with Kerasilk by Goldwell. To find out more, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com CREATIVE HEAD
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Hair to fall in love with
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Discover LONG-LASTING TRANSFORMATION for hair
KerasilK Premium hair carE
For the first time, five customizable salon services provide exceptional and long-lasting results. Speak to your Goldwell sales consultant or call 01323 432100 for further details.
www.goldwell.com/kerasilk
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09/09/2015 14:31
FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...
£44
A GIFT WORTH
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CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 WINDLE & MOODIE INTENSE TREATMENT MASQUE AND TEXTURE CREAM, WORTH £44 ONE LUCKY SUBSCRIBER WILL RECEIVE THE ENTIRE WINDLE & MOODIE RANGE, WORTH £400 *TO SUBSCRIBE
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*For full terms and conditions, visit creativeheadmag.com. All product prices stated are RRP
YOU’LL ENJOY...
21/09/2015 16:36
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
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WELCOME TO THE NEXT LEVEL FOR YOUR TEAM, YOUR CUSTOMERS AND YOUR BUSINESS
STATE OF INDEPENDENCE
Hair (this page and previous) by Neil Moodie for Windle & Moodie 94
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WHO’S DRIVING THE HAIR INDUSTRY NOW?
INDEPENDENT HAIR BRANDS ARE OFFERING SALON OWNERS REAL ALTERNATIVES FOR THEIR BUSINESS. ABOUT TIME, SAYS CREATIVE HEAD PUBLISHER, CATHERINE HANDCOCK
WE’RE ALL AGREED, your retail shelves are pretty much unrecognisable from the rather less than animated state they were in 15 years ago. Back then, the Big Four manufacturers dominated – these massive multinationals able to deploy huge marketing budgets to obtain the best and most visible distribution in the market. But fast forward to 2015 and things are changing. Just as Marks & Spencer
“THAT’S WHAT MAKES INDEPENDENT BRANDS SO EXCITING NOW – THEIR PRODUCTS LOOK AND FEEL NEW AND DIFFERENT AND SO MUCH MORE RELEVANT” is offering niche brands unprecedented exposure in its new-style beauty departments, and Selfridges champions new and previously unheard of brands in its Living Beauty space
CREATIVE HEAD
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right next to the main beauty hall, so professional salons are embracing a new wave of small, independent product lines offering exceptional ingredients, packaging and back stories. The young upstarts are giving their older, bigger siblings a run for their money. “There’s a heightened consumer interest in a more personalised approach to beauty and haircare and that’s affecting their choice of products,” says Oliver Fincher, managing director of Aston & Fincher, one of the UK’s most successful distributors (exclusive lines include Moroccanoil and Olaplex). “This is opening the door to brands that have a more specific, finetuned approach that major manufacturers often can’t match because they operate on a massive scale. That’s what makes independent brands so exciting now – their products look and feel new and different and so much more relevant.” “It was time to do my own thing,” says salon owner Paul Windle, whose innovative Windle &
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Moodie product line launched last year. Paul had previously gained experience as a product distributor (he built brands such as Phytologie and Bumble and bumble in the UK, along with business partner Irina Sadayo), giving him in-depth insight into the dynamics of the professional hairdressing market. “If you’re going to launch a product in the niche sector, then it’s got to be genuinely niche,” he says. “You can’t fake it with hairdressers. If you’re doing it for the wrong reasons, they see through you.” Paul developed his range in collaboration with his business partner – session stylist Neil Moodie, and the team that has worked at their Covent Garden salon for more than 20 years. They chose to work directly with chemists to create their bespoke formulations, rather than use a
“YOU JUST CAN’T FAKE IT WITH HAIRDRESSERS. IF YOU’RE DOING IT FOR THE WRONG REASONS, THEY SEE STRAIGHT THROUGH YOU” contract manufacturer – an expensive process that meant the range took more than five years to develop, with 40 to 50 rounds of testing. However, the resulting products look, feel and perform like nothing else on the market – the tea-infused shampoos are packaged in glass-effect bottles (“We think people like to see what they’re washing their hair with!”), while the Volcanic Ash Wax (inspired by the way a volcanic eruption transformed hair texture) not only grips in a way that is truly remarkable, but is the winner of product and design awards from Wallpaper* and ShortList. This is a range getting talked about in all the right places.
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RISING STARS
THE RISE AND SUCCESS of boutique style brands can be attributed at least in part to the online environment, which has provided them with a platform to tell their unique stories and engage with a meaningful base of consumers. But they are also using their agility to alter dynamics within the distribution sector and provide salon owners with new opportunities. “The big manufacturers encourage salon owners to enter into long-term product supply contracts, often in return for an upfront cash injection,” explains Oliver Fincher. “Independent brands can’t compete with that cheque book approach so they’re getting creative, working with salon owners on completely different levels that are both innovative and commercially attractive in different ways.” “We made a conscious decision not to have sales people on the road, instead ploughing the money into other values like education,” explains Paul. “I know from my own experience that reps take precious time out of your day as a working salon owner – I’d rather spend that time helping my salons build their profile in their local press.” “The real charm with Windle & Moodie is that they remain personal to you as a salon owner, both through contact with Neil and Paul, and with their ordering warehouse,” says salon owner Nelson Brown of Dumfries, Scotland, who’s been stocking Windle & Moodie for several months now. “There’s no hard push, they simply want people to stock their brand who believe in hair and what it does for the customer. It’s a very refreshing approach in what’s otherwise a very aggressive market.” Indeed, such is Paul’s belief in his salon stockists that he even offers them the opportunity to become a distributor – creating a new revenue stream for entrepreneurial salon owners. “Hairdressers know where the good salons are,” he smiles. “They’re good at recommending other outlets. And by having a say in who should stock our brand, they get to control what happens in their area.” One thing’s for sure, the digital revolution has transformed how and where people shop for their hair products. Mobile apps and social media have meant the consumer’s path to purchase has become unclear as offline and online shopping are more intertwined
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than ever before. Alternate shopping channels once touted by the major manufacturers as being “negligible” or “insignificant” have now emerged as “essential”, with online shopping now at the epicentre of their distribution strategy.
“THE DIGITAL REVOLUTION HAS TRANSFORMED HOW AND WHERE PEOPLE SHOP FOR THEIR HAIR PRODUCTS. MOBILE APPS AND SOCIAL MEDIA HAVE MEANT THE CONSUMER’S PATH TO PURCHASE HAS BECOME UNCLEAR AS OFFLINE AND ONLINE SHOPPING ARE MORE INTERTWINED THAN EVER BEFORE” This is causing consternation in salons, as professional products that previously could only be bought by consumers exclusively through salons, are increasingly showing up on ecommerce websites, and often at less than RRP. And again, while some independent brands see websites as essential to their distribution, there are others who are actively taking a stance in support of salons. “We believe that the cheap sale of hair products online is a major disservice to salons,” says Xavier Berrell, director of Red Hot Products, which distributes the milk_shake range. “We won’t supply any other online retailer and we use our own website to encourage consumers who buy a product to find their nearest salon and buy from them next time.” “Hairdressers have influence over the consumer, and this power seems to have been overlooked in recent times,” says Paul Windle. “That’s why we see our growth as coming via salons – if a consumer trusts a hairdresser with their appearance, then their product recommendation will count too. We believe wholeheartedly that the best people to sell professional hair products are hair professionals.” The dream for today’s smaller but rapidly climbing brands is of course to be one of tomorrow’s major global brands. Either that, or like Michael Gordon’s Bumble and bumble or John Frieda’s Frizz Ease, to be bought by one. Well, if you can’t build it, buy it!
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MILK_SHAKE
“We’re a young, vibrant company and we’re always looking at ways to support our salons. We offer subsidised trips to places like Spain and Italy where hairdressers can see brilliant shows and new product launches. And we have a website geared up to encourage consumers to find their nearest milk_shake salon, rather than buy online.”
CONTACT 01392 365177
WINDLE & MOODIE
“An extension to our acclaimed, award-winning salon in Covent Garden, meeting the exceptional standards of our hairdressers, dedicated to our clients who have been loyal to us for decades, inspired by our editorial and fashion heritage, combining innovative hair treatments and performance-driven styling.”
CONTACT 020 3326 8182
NICHE LITTLE EARNERS
EVO
Launched to market in 2000, this salon-only brand has huge personality. “We step outside the normal realm of truth-stretching invention in a ‘wake up and smell the coffee’ crusade of twisted honesty designed to make people think. Hence our catchphrase, ‘Saving ordinary humans from themselves’.”
CONTACT ASTON & FINCHER ON 0870 240 2176
INDEPENDENT BRANDS TO KEEP YOUR EYES ON
UNITE
Says founder Andrew Dale: “I knew the industry needed a brand that truly supported the hairdresser creatively and in business, and that delivered products that performed the way stylists wanted them to. At the time, I felt as though the marketplace was filled with brands whose products were based on ideas from their marketing departments, rather than what hairdressers really needed.” Unite launched in 2003.
CONTACT 0845 034 0770
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ORIGINAL & MINERAL
The Australian brand had its UK salon launch in April 2015, and can also be found in Selfridges, Space NK and net-a-porter. com. “We’re free from any nasty chemicals – we’re all about clean, natural formulations – and we’ve got the ability to offer salons luxury boutique haircare that’s not mass market,” says Dennis Kovalyov, director at Bespoke Haircare UK.
CONTACT 07577 637267 WIN the entire Original & Mineral range, worth a whopping £473! Enter at creativeheadmag.com
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RED ANCHOR SUPPLY CO.
A small but passionate company launched in 2015 delivering “great looking British-made products that we believe truly appeal to men”. The range of beard oils and face and beard cleansers are created and tested by UK barbers and feature stylish, bold, simple packaging.
CONTACT SALES@REDANCHOR-SUPPLYCOMPANY.COM
NEAL & WOLF
Founder Neil Capstick saw salons being sold large ranges with products they’d never use and never sell. He’s put his 30 years’ industry experience into this range offering luxury at affordable prices with sleek, tactile packaging and a signature fragrance of blossom, white thyme and ylang ylang. The brand offers a 100 per cent mark-up on every product.
CONTACT 01282 444 900
PURELY PERFECT
Michael Gordon’s follow-up to Bumble and bumble will never feature more than 10 products. “That means it’s vey clear and simple to explain to stylists and clients what the product does,” says Michael. “Many of the big brands now have so many SKUs, and it means that salon owners are spending money on a lot of products that generally don’t sell. Having one cleanser for all hair types makes it very easy and comfortable for a stylist to recommend/sell.”
DAVINES
Founded in Parma, Italy, in 1983 by the Bollati family, Davines previously produced high-end products for other cosmetics companies before launching its own brand in 1993. Guided by the principle of sustainable beauty, Davines is renowned for its eco-friendly stance, and seeks out like-minded salons to represent them. The brand ambassador is Angelo Seminara.
CONTACT 020 3301 5449
VISIT PURELYPERFECTPRODUCTS.COM
ELECTRIC
Founded by hairdresser Mark Woolley, the products are part of an expanding Electric empire that includes salons, a photographic studio and an electrical line. Available from Electric Hairdressing salons, various websites and selected stores such as Fortnum & Mason and Harvey Nichols, the product packaging features the work of British artists.
CONTACT 01273 775397
SACHAJUAN
Classic, timeless packaging and professional-grade, high-end formulations with a background in session styling make this perfect for premium salons. Currently stocked in Josh Wood’s Atelier, Daniel Galvin and Urban Retreat, as well as at SpaceNK and Cult Beauty, the Swedish founders Sacha Mitic and Juan Roselind have chosen to pursue a target end consumer, rather than a specific distribution channel.
CONTACT 020 3752 9447
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MODERN BEAUTY
THE NEW WINDLE & MOODIE HAIRCARE RANGE TICKS ALL THE RIGHT BOXES – INNOVATIVE PRODUCTS, INSPIRATIONAL IMAGERY AND EXCITING BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES THAT PUT YOU, THE SALON OWNER, IN CONTROL. ISN’T IT TIME TO TAKE A LOOK?
PAUL WINDLE AND NEIL MOODIE understand the power of good hair. Their Covent Garden salon, where Paul heads up a big team of great stylists, has been buzzing for nearly three decades (a feat that’s almost unheard of in central London), while Neil’s editorial work sees him doing some of the biggest manes in the fashion industry for Vogue. With such an incredible heritage and reputation behind them, it’s no wonder that launching their own product line would make people sit up and take notice. The 22-piece Windle & Moodie haircare collection, combining pioneering hair treatments and performance-driven styling products, not only meets Paul and Neil’s exceptional standards, but is already providing other salon owners with something new, exciting and different to work with. Developed by a handpicked team of independent UK chemists, the range features breakthrough technologies and unique ingredients you simply won’t find elsewhere. For example, Windle & Moodie shampoos and conditioners are infused with high-grade, food-quality teas
renowned for their antioxidant properties, protecting and strengthening hair and leaving it shiny and radiant. The styling range is all about performance and functionality that has passed the rigorous test of salon and editorial work – the Volcanic Ash Wax has also won awards from ShortList and Wallpaper* magazines. What’s more, the entire range is ecofriendly, containing no propylene glycol or parabens. This is innovative haircare at its healthiest. And there are extra benefits for salon owners, too, like high-quality educational courses, held in your salon or at Windle & Moodie HQ in London, with money-can’t-buy tuition from session genius Neil. Instead of pushy sales reps, you order from a friendly warehouse based near Paul’s hometown of Penrith in Cumbria. And there are even opportunities for stockists to become distributors, creating a new revenue stream for entrepreneurial salon owners, while at the same time giving them unprecedented control over what happens in their area. This is innovative haircare at its most supportive.
THE WINDLE & MOODIE RANGE
GREAT FOR: Independent salons looking for a new retail range USP: Unique formulations, session heritage, striking packaging and superb imagery associated with the brand RRPS: shampoos from £14.50; styling products from £12.50 ADDITIONAL SALON BENEFITS: High quality education; opportunities to become a distributor
try ressed ed etere ents, Unite
WANT TO WORK WITH A NEW AND SUPPORTIVE BRAND THAT BELIEVES IN YOU? WINDLE & MOODIE IS THE BRAND FOR YOU. FOR MORE INFORMATION CALL 07717 480 649, 020 3326 8182 OR VISIT WINDLEANDMOODIE.COM.
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CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
PAUL WINDLE & NEIL MOODIE INVITE YOU TO
WINDLE & MOODIE INSPIRATIONAL SEM THE INAR showcasing creative cut s, colour and conceptual editorial, plus introducing the Windle & Moodie pro duct line
MONDAY 26 OCTOBER, 11AM TO 5PM Windle & Moodie Salon 41-45 Shorts Gardens London WC2H 9AP RSVP to Taline Dadourian at taline@windlea ndmood Places strictly limited – first come,
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ie.com
first served
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NATURAL BORN HEROES
FOR MANY INDIE BRANDS THERE’S A STANDOUT, GOTTA-HAVE-IT CULT FAVOURITE THAT SALONS STRUGGLE TO KEEP IN STOCK, SUCH IS THE DEMAND. HERE ARE A FEW CLASSICS... AND SOME CLASSICS-IN-THE-MAKING!
THE PRODUCTS
INVISIBLE DAY AND NIGHT CREAM – WINDLE & MOODIE A brilliant example of skincare influencing haircare, this is a ‘behindthe-scenes’ moisturiser to protect against day or night abrasions, while including a UV shield.
RRP £18.50 01768 891394 WINDLEANDMOODIE.COM
ROOT COVER-UP – COLORWOW A real first-of-its-kind, this root camouflage palette can be found in many a handbag, a colour client’s BFF in-between colour appointments. All shades cover grey roots – seamlessly it even has a red version, and the blond shade covers dark re-growth in lightened/ highlighted hair.
RRP £28.50 0870 240 2176 ASTONANDFINCHER.CO.UK
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Clients crave crazy coloured hair on a Friday, but want a return to the sober strands come Monday morning. This little pot of colour shadow is ideal! There’s a choice of five colours and you can get a shimmer version, too!
RRP £14 01282 613413 ENQUIRIES@ICONTEAM.CO.UK
PROJECT SUKUROI – ORIGINAL & MINERAL Inspired by kintsugi, the Japanese art of fixing pottery with gold lacquer, Project Sukuroi is a water/ oil emulsion that’s luxurious and effective. It delivers a soft dose of smoothing, hydrating repair magic.
RRP £26 07577 637267 ORIGINALMINERAL.COM
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COLOR BUG – KEVIN MURPHY
DON’T BLOW IT (H)AIR STYLER – BUMBLE AND BUMBLE Obviously this won’t help your hairdryer sales, but for your low maintenance and overprocessed clients, Bumble and bumble’s Don’t Blow It (H)air Styler might just be a miracle in a tube!
RRP FROM £12 0870 851 2227 BUMBLEANDBUMBLE.CO.UK
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just enough heat. It’s a bit of an art because a couple of seconds too long, and the hair looks too ‘set’.
CH: Tell us why you’ve launched the Windle & Moodie product range. NM: Paul Windle and I wanted to create a range that was very high quality and of a very high standard, but not so vast that it becomes confusing. Our products are very specific, but together they enable us to do everything that we want to with hair – it’s like having those six or seven products in your kit bag that you always use. I’m very proud of it. CH: If you could go back in time and give yourself any words of advice, what would they be? NM: Listen to my gut instinct a lot more. It’s right 99.9 per cent of the time. If only I knew that before! CH: What does the future hold for you? NM: More of the same for now. I never like to plan too far ahead. I believe in fate and impulse.
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DISCOVER MORE AT
milkshakehaircare.co.uk
With certified organic and natural ingredients, milk_shake® is the product line that is loved worldwide. But don’t take our word for it, just ask the awards judges.
Find us on FACEBOOK Milk Shake Hair UK Follow us on TWITTER milkshakehairUK info 01392 365177
ADV MS Singola BESTE SELLER UK Xavier 220x285.indd 1
ONLY SOLD IN PROFESSIONAL SALONS
23/07/15 15:47
7SECONDS GLOSSING SPRAY – UNITE
ESPRAY – ELECTRIC HAIRDRESSING
Hailed by some beauty editors as a game-changer, this addition to the 7SECOND range is a glossing spray that’s actually super dry. You’ll get an injection of moisture and shine alongside UV and thermal protection.
On a recent shoot with layeredonline.com, Electric’s Mark Woolley used only this product! Two years in development and with session stylists in mind, the conditioning formula delivers an extra dry finish hairspray, and with a quick brush stroke, hair can be restyled. Impressive.
RRP £17.40 0845 034 0770 UNITEHAIR.CO.UK
RRP £17.50 01273 775397 ELECTRIC-HAIR.COM
SHEBANG-A-BANG – EVO This Aussie brand has a real gift when it comes to eye-catching names, and the products are memorable, too. This dry spray wax with an ultrafine mist is designed to create workable, pliable texture with a satin finish. It’s also a hair moisturiser that helps get the comb through tough tangles.
RRP £14.50 0870 240 2176 ASTONANDFINCHER.CO.UK
THE SERVICES TREATMENT COCKTAIL – MILK_SHAKE Bringing the backwash onto the salon floor, these cocktails are conditioning treatments mixed in front of the client for full theatrical impact. The Direct Colour Cocktail is particularly impressive, while the Argan Oil one is a real hit of intense moisture. They’re blended in a clear cocktail glass with milk_shake’s cult favourite Whipped Cream or mask with a cocktail stirrer. With naturally-derived ingredients such as milk, yogurt, cocoa and papaya, they smell great.
IN-SALON SERVICE 01392 365177 MILKSHAKEHAIRCARE.CO.UK
OLAPLEX You know someone has hit on a good idea when loads of other brands rush to bring out their version – such has been the impact of Olaplex since its US launch some 18 months ago. An additive that you mix in with colour and other technical services, it helps stop damage to the hair by chemical treatments. It’s a three-stage operation – Olaplex Bond Multiplier No.1 is added to lightener or colour, then you apply Bond Perfector No.2 after colour is rinsed. The Hair Perfector No.3 is a take-home treatment for your client to use once a week to strengthen their hair further. Particularly perfect for those who love lightening.
IN-SALON SERVICE 0845 077 3277 SARAH@STARQUALITIES.COM
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FLAMBOYAGE MECHE – DAVINES A practical, see-through adhesive strip, Flamboyage Meche offers a new spin on balayage. The special meche strip has a sticky side that grabs the hair in a spontaneous way, controlled by the natural movement of pulling the foil. You can isolate a casual amount of hair, enabling the technician to apply the colour in a practical way, check the development as it’s transparent, and it can be easily removed with warm water.
IN-SALON SERVICE 020 3301 5449 DAVINES.COM
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USE YOUR HEADTM HEALTHY HAIR BEGINS WHEN IT’S FREE FROM STRESS, COME CLEAN WITH O&M
GOLDEN SMOOTHING BALM
The Midas Tub. Gold of Pleasure Oil is the liquid star in this formula that raises the bar and sets a whole new styling standard. Delivering a smooth, glossy and feather-like softness to hair that you’re sure to love. The three key ingredients include; Hydrolysed Keratin, Gold of Pleasure Oil and Macadamia Oil which can be transported throughout the hair in a lighter and softer fashion.
HAIRCARE & STYLING PRODUCTS BY O&M
We’ve thought hard for hair and developed a haircare and styling range to suit every hair type. Leaving out harsh chemicals including Parabens, MIT and Triclosan, we’ve replaced them with natural native actives from O&M’s birthplace of Australia. Sourced from diverse geographical locations from the desert to the ocean, these Australian native actives deliver many benefits while nourishing and protecting the hair.
FOR FURTHER INFO CONTACT BESPOKE HAIR CARE LTD.
denis@bespokehaircare.co.uk lee@bespokehaircare.co.uk Call Denis on 07894069808 or call Lee on 07577637267 www.bespokehaircare.co.uk
/Bespoke-Hair-Care @BespokeHairUK
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THE CRAFT FROM GENTLY TEXTURED BLOW-DRYS TO SUMPTUOUS CURLS WITH INCREDIBLE VOLUME AND SHINE, THE WINDLE & MOODIE LINE HAS GOT AUTUMN’S LOOKS ALL SEWN UP HAIR BY NEIL MOODIE
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5 MINUTES WITH… NEIL MOODIE
WITH 30 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE, NEIL MOODIE IS ONE OF THE MOST POWERFUL MEN IN THE INDUSTRY AND ALSO ONE OF THE MOST TRUSTED, WITH A NATURAL ABILITY TO PUT PEOPLE AT EASE
CREATIVE HEAD: How did you get into fashion? NEIL MOODIE: I was working as a colour technician for Toni&Guy when the fashion photographer Corinne Day asked me to colour the hair of a new model for a shoot for The Face. I said yes thinking I was just helping out a friend… When the results were published, I got a call from Italian Vogue asking me to go to Milan to do a shoot. The rest is history! One thing I will add is that in one photograph I sprayed the ends of the model’s hair pink, then we did a picture of her with a mohawk. That particular image most definitely helped to launch my career in fashion.
CH: What’s cool in hair right now? NM: There’s a continuation of last season’s ’70s theme, but slightly loosened up – hair is not so lacquered or tonged, and the partings are slightly off-centre. People also want their hair to look gorgeous and shiny again; beach hair is gone.
CH: You’ve been associated with Burberry for many seasons, so what is ‘Burberry hair’? NM: Burberry girls wear their hair close to their eyes and face, like they’re peeping through it. It’s a very coquettish look. First, blow-dry the hair so it’s smooth, but not perfectly smooth, then wrap random sections around a large barrel tong very briefly, so the hair gets
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CREATIVE HEAD
21/09/2015 16:46
HOME LOVE HOW-TO TEST FIX WATCH WIN SHOP
The daily consumer hair magazine… on desktop, mobile and tablet ★ People We Love
The most exciting hair talents share their insider expertise
★ Salons We’ve Been To UK salons put to the test by the Layered team
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Want to shout about your salon, your experts and your services? Get in touch and let the Layered team know! Tweet @LayeredOnline or email enquiries@layeredonline.com
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22/09/2015 09:30
C O S M I C VERSATILITY, FLEXIBILITY, FREEDOM – THE LIQUID MOTION COLLECTION FROM PAUL MITCHELL PROFESSIONAL HAIR COLOR USES FLICKERS OF LIGHT AND DIFFUSED LINES TO EMBODY MOVEMENT AND MUTABILITY PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH SILVER
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HAIR The International Paul Mitchell Artistic Team: Robert Cromeans, Lucie Doughty, Stephanie Kocielski, Takashi, Julian Perlingiero, Mary Cuomo and Heather Kaanoi. STYLING Emma Trask. MAKE-UP Vincent Oquendo. NAILS Alex Jachno
Sibling S/S16
PROFILE
The fast lane
John Vial is a maverick, a maestro and a man that still has the passion and enthusiasm of an apprentice – after 30 years in the business – and he hasn’t got time to rest...
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Alan Howard Roadshow Indian Vogue
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realised that I had no idea how to cut hair.” But that didn’t slow him down. In 1990, he joined Sassoon in Leeds to learn how to cut hair from the very best. “Sassoon in Leeds produced some of the best hairdressers from Sassoon as a whole. I think that was because we all tried a lot harder. There was a sense of inferiority as everyone else was from London. “During that time I felt like life was never going to get better. For all the brilliant things I’ve done, that was my favourite time.” Just two years later, John was made art director. He moved to Cardiff for the role and spent two years there before his next big break: London Fashion Week. “It was around 1993 and Sassoon had just started sponsoring London Fashion Week, which was an unusual thing to do at the time,” explains John. “I was really lucky as Sassoon is all about the discipline of the craft, but it’s not about dressing hair. But suddenly we’ve got a sponsorship and they asked who could dress hair and I was able to say I could. So I instantly got onto the show scene.” By 1995, John had moved to London full time and opened a salon in the city. “It was at that point that I feel I got my next big break and I went to Taiwan to shoot a commercial for Sassoon. Leo Burnett was the advertising firm and they liked me and asked me to stay on and shoot another commercial in Hong Kong,” he says. So he spent the next few years in Asia, looking after the Vidal Sassoon haircare line. “This was also the first time I met Vidal properly and together we toured Asia. My life was
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“TO BE SUCCESSFUL, you’ve got to work hard,” says John Vial. And this is a man who has no moment to lose; when he talks it’s full-on and full-speed ahead – just like in his career. “Twice in a row at Sassoon I worked more than 40 days straight.” John made his reputation at Sassoon, but his hairdressing career could’ve gone down a very different path. “My uncle owned a barbershop in Ireland. I lived in England with my mum when I was growing up, but I would spend my summer holidays in Ireland and most of that at the barbershop. I was mesmerised.” John knew he wanted to be a hairdresser from a young age and he planned to open a women’s salon downstairs in his uncle’s barbershop, so the two could work together. But everything changed when John went to look for work. “I went for my first job interview aged 13 and had to wait until I was 14 until I could work. Then I worked in a salon in Derby on Tuesday evenings and on Saturdays,” he explains. As it happened, Tuesday evenings were also the salon’s training nights and so by the time John finished school at 16, he’d already got all his blow-drying and setting qualifications. Aged 16 he joined the salon full time. “To this day, after all the session work I’ve done, I’ve never seen anyone dress hair the way [the owner] René could,” says John. “He taught me how to do the pin curls and barrel curls, all of that. He used to have this metal tail comb and as you did curls he’d rap your fingers with it if you did it wrong.” After René, he joined a company called Mark Scott. “René was the antithesis of Mark Scott,” says John. “René was all about wealthy Derbyshire ladies with curls and couture chignons, while everyone who worked at Mark Scott looked like they’d just stepped out of a fashion magazine. It was the ’80s so it was all about short crops and I
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spent on planes as we still sponsored London Fashion Week and shows at Paris and New York.” But the party had to end eventually and around 2002 John left Sassoon to go and open Urban Retreat in Harrods with Lesley Jennison. “I’m not knocking it, but I found out that Sassoon was going to be acquired by Regis, and I thought it was my time to leave. I sat down with Vidal and said I didn’t know what to do with my life, and he said maybe now is the time to move, so I did.” However, after just nine months he was given another chance he couldn’t turn down. “I was at an event and I bumped into Josh Wood. He asked me to come and work for him at a salon he’d just opened, and I thought, why not?” The salon was Real Hair and for the next 10 years Josh and John worked together, sharing a clientele most hairdressers would kill for. “Of all the big brands that I’ve worked with, that was where I forged my most important relationships.” One of those was with Michelle Feeney. “I met this brilliant woman and I thought she really understood hair and fashion. We were chatting away and it transpired she was Michelle Feeney, the woman who helped build MAC Cosmetics,” he reveals. “She told me that she was about to become the chief executive of PZ Cussons and was looking to get a hair brand called Fudge and asked if I’d like to come work there.” That was in 2012 and since then John (as creative director for Fudge) has spent
most of his life back on a plane again. One of the things John really loves is that Fudge sponsored London Collections: Men (LC:M): “It’s quite a small company and so it can be quite agile. One of the pillars of Fudge is music, which is why we sponsored the Brit Awards and Mercury Prize, as well as fashion and men, which we combined at LC:M.” While Fudge is no longer the official hair sponsor of LC:M, it’s still doing shows as “we’ve built up the reputation, so we sort of don’t need to sponsor it anymore”, explains John. After 30 years in the industry, is there anything John feels he’s yet to accomplish? “There are still two things I want to do. I’ve never actually owned a salon, so I would love to do that now. It’s never appealed to me before, but now it’s something I’d like to do. I’d also like to launch my own product line – one of my best friends is architect Zaha Hadid and she’s said she’d like to design it for me.” But despite all the successes, John remains a Derby lad through and through. When he found himself getting slightly too fond of flying first class, he would take a train to Derbyshire to get a reality check. “My mum kept me grounded. I would tell her I was shooting with Annie Leibovitz for American Vogue and be incredibly excited and she would say: ‘did I tell you Colin was in the Derby Telegraph this week?’ If you weren’t in the local paper then you hadn’t made it for my mum.” And does he feel he’s made it? “One thing that really stands out is when Vidal Sassoon accepted an award at a big event, he mentioned some of the hairdressers he’d got to work with, like Tim Hartley and Mark Hayes, and then he mentioned me. That was a special moment.” John is a man who has always known what he wants, and failure just isn’t an option. “I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I’m a sore loser and I’m fiercely competitive. I can’t bear failure or mediocrity. It’s a wasted life.” And as he looks to celebrate his 30 years in the industry in January, we think we can firmly say that John’s life has not been a wasted one.
Fudge Professional
“I’m embarrassed to admit this, but I’m a sore loser and I’m fiercely competitive. I can’t bear failure or mediocrity. It’s a wasted life”
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23/09/2015 12:01
New Oz Rock Intense Reds
WARM COPPER GOLDS COOL CYCLAMENS INTENSE REDS Double intenisty of tone and a combination of purer pigments mean the colour appears richer and more vibrant with long-lasting results and a brilliant shine For more information call 020 7845 6333 or contact: Alan Howard - Scotland, the North and the Midlands T: 0845 345 8535 E: fudge@alanhoward.co.uk Laceys - London, South East, East Anglia, East Midlands T: 01189 302 338 E: info@laceys.biz Salon Concepts - South West T: 01934 623 129 E: enquiries@salonconcepts.co.uk
fudgehair fudgeprofessional.com
Mazella & Palmer Creative Team for Fudge Professional
creative to the core
y t u a e B boost Whether you’re an experienced beauty therapist or just starting out, HD Brows offers a variety of courses to help you boost your in-salon services
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22/09/2015 09:28
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
NEW LOOK!
exciting HD Brows has pipeline e changes in th g with a tin ar st , for 2016 igh Definition, rebrand into H mpass a en which will co g makerange of excitin training d an up, beauty der un l al , gs rin offe . of one ro BRANCHING INTO an additional beauty service is a good way to open a new revenue stream, offering stylists a fantastic new skill to add to their repertoire. Eyebrow and make-up treatments are easy to introduce into your salon and are a relatively low-cost option, with huge rewards. With this in mind, it makes sense to partner with the UK’s number one brow brand, HD Brows. Not only has it consistently created pioneering treatments and products that offer stunning, high-quality results, but also it’s diverse range of courses – including its two-day brow training or four-day Professional Artistry Course, taught by industry-leading professional make-up artists – make it simple to become a qualified stylist or accredited make-up artist to take your career to new heights. HD Brows training takes place every week of the year in the brand’s state-of-the-art training academies in Yorkshire, Milton Keynes and its newly launched academy in Glasgow, Scotland, as well as at its approved partner academy in Northern Ireland. HD Brows is revolutionising the beauty industry – what’s not to love?
Courses on offer... HD BROWS TRAINING This two-day course is open to all, with a Refresher Class available once qualified. It covers brand values, the concept, treatment, products, problems and solutions. After completion, stylists can progress to advanced classes. Cost: First stylist £1,395+VAT; second stylist £595+VAT; third stylist £495+VAT. Price includes a Brow Start-Up Kit worth more than £395, a Virtual Stockist Make Up kit worth £300, a HD Brows certificate, a place on the Refresher Class and product credit worth £25. PROFESSIONAL ARTISTRY COURSE Held at the Milton Keynes academy, this four-day course
is open to all and is taught by celebrity make-up artists. Tutors will showcase the professional techniques required to create flawless skin, perfectly blended eye make-up and beautiful contours. The final training dates for 2015 are 5-8 November and 19-22 November. Cost: £3,000+VAT. Includes a HD Brows Make Up Kit, worth £1,500. PROFESSIONAL ARTISTRY CONVERSION COURSE This recently launched one-day course is for qualified make-up artists. Attendees will be taught about the range of products and signature style, and will leave as a verified retailer of the range. Cost: £1,250+VAT. Includes a HD Brows Make Up Kit, worth £1,500.
For more information and to find out the course dates for the rest of the year, call 0844 801 3063
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BUSINESS HOW-TO GUIDES
BECAUSE RUNNING A SALON IS COMPLICATED ENOUGH The no-nonsense guide to launching your business
The no-nonsense guide to PR & marketing
The no-nonsense guide to team building
The no-nonsense guide to customer experience
Start your own salon
Build a better team
Get noticed
The perfect client journey
Your name, your way – now take the first step
Educate and motivate your glamour squad
Make sure everyone’s talking about your business
Ensure your clients enjoy the whole ride, not just the destination
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The no-nonsense guide to rules and regulations
The no-nonsense guide to expansion and franchising
Red tape and headaches
Branching out
All the xtras
Minimise the stress of running a salon
For salon owners who want more
A salon isn’t just about hair
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The no nonsense uide to retail and merchandising
The no-nonsense guide to additional services
Sell, sell, sell! Pump up the profits from your shelves
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Each 28-page guide is packed with “how-to” advice on retail, expansion, franchising and common business headaches. Buy individually, or grab the set!
11/08/2015 15:16
ONLY £5 !E EYA3 GCETH R 1F E
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BUY ONLINE AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL CREATIVE HEAD ON 01434 610416 p35 How_to_guides_GW1.indd 1
12/08/2015 11:28
Colour Forecast
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PROMOTION
MAKE A STATEMENT THIS SEASON L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TURNS CATWALK HAIR HUES INTO IN-SALON STATEMENT PIECES WITH ITS A/W15 IT LOOKS
EVERY SEASON there is a shade that dominates all others. For A/W15, black is back and proving why it’s a classic, featuring extensively on the catwalk in different shapes and forms. The season saw some designers favour dark and rebellious interpretations, while others showcased a more sophisticated and luxurious collection of black velvet, silhouette-hugging long gowns and black hues in high-shine
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wet-look finishes. Another shade that made a big impact this season was copper orange. Renowned fashion designers incorporated deep orange hues into key pieces or added earthy tones of copper in handbags and clothes – showing that orange really is the new black. Now discover how these hues will be your in-salon colour cues this season.
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AS ONE
SEASON ENDS...
...Another begins – so fall in love with this season’s colours and make them work for your client, with the It Looks by L’Oréal Professionnel
INSPIRED BY the catwalks, L’Oréal Professionnel introduces a palette of Autumn Brights that’s daring and bold while still feminine and sophisticated. And who better to showcase the looks than up-and-coming faces Joséphine de La Baume and Nicole Warne? Actress, singer and model Joséphine is becoming a fashion idol with her undeniable style and personality, while Nicole has won her place in the fashion world with her Gary Pepper blog and collaborations with international fashion houses. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Majirel Autumn Brights is the palette du jour, but the technique of the moment is hair contouring. You may have heard of make-up contouring, but now it’s all about hair. This colouring technique has been pioneered by some of the world’s leading colourists, including London’s Charles Worthington salon and creative director, Marc Trinder. The technique sees colourists place their hues in such a way as to enhance the look of facial features. French colour master Frédéric Mennetrier is the man who combined the Autumn Brights colour trend with this emerging hair contouring technique to create this season’s A/W15 It looks...
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WILD COPPER CONTOURING JOSÉPHINE DE LA BAUME
JOSÉPHINE’S LOOK is best flattered by rounding her rectangular face. For this, Frédéric applied the new L’Oréal Professionnel Majirouge 8.43 Rubilane, and to elongate the face he weaved in lighter pieces with L’Oréal Professionnel Blond Studio Freehand Powder. Lighter pieces were applied around the hairline to highlight her cheekbones and soften the corners of her face, resulting in a more oval appearance.
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PROMOTION
TREND ALERT: HAIR CONTOURING YOU MAY have heard of skin contouring before, but now it’s all about hair contouring. It uses a combination of freehand application and highlighting paired with the careful positioning of different tones and depths around the face to highlight areas. Darker tones create shadows to narrow face shape, while lighter tones lengthen by reflecting light. This clever placement of colour and complementary tones make your client’s face appear more defined. But contouring isn’t just about deciding what part of your client’s face you need to highlight, you need the right products, too. The Blond Studio range of prelighteners from L’Oréal Professionnel are ideal. In particular, Blond Studio Freehand Powder is perfect for freehand techniques, while the Sunkissed Lightening Oil is ideal for achieving lift in minutes or for freshening up ombre.
USE LEARN HOW TO OURING THE HAIR CONT TECHNIQUE AT MAG.COM CREATIVEHEAD
VIOLET WAVY BOB NICOLE WARNE
NICOLE’S WAVY bob is sleek and sophisticated, echoing this season’s fashion trend for strong, classic and feminine looks. On Nicole’s hair, Frédéric intensified the edginess of the look to reveal a high shine and vibrant violet reflection. He applied the new L’Oréal Professionnel Majirouge Carmilane 4.16 for deep colour and long-lasting results, perfect for Nicole’s darker hair.
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PROMOTION
MAKE LIKE A MODEL
LET CLIENTS DISCOVER WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO HAVE CATWALK-WORTHY HAIR WITH THE NEW MAJIROUGE SHADES FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
AS WE MOVE into autumn, we look forward to many things: new fashion trends; crisp, clear days; warm cider by a crackling fire; and the changing colour of the leaves. So celebrate the changing season with six new Majirouge shades by L’Oréal Professionnel. The ash reds, burning burgundies and black violets pay homage to the abundance of colour that autumn always brings and are the shades used in L’Oréal Professionnel’s A/W15 It Looks. These shades also deliver long-lasting results that resist fade. The formula penetrates into the heart of the hair fibre to illuminate it from the inside out. The result is a long-lasting copper or red with a neutralising effect. And not only that, these hues cover up to 100 per cent white hair without using a base shade.
Get the Autumn Brights palette from Majirel by L’Oréal Professionnel in your salon now. Contact your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
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Colour A/W15
Forecast
Welcome... It’s out with the old and in with the new this season for colour as we explore the latest catwalk trends and embrace the dazzling rose-golds, burnt sunsets and burnished bronzes that make up the A/W15 season.
Matthew Sutcliffe’s latest collection, inspired by the ’70s American punk era, is showcased on page 99, and we say congratulations to the 2015 Most Wanted Colour Expert, Katie Mulcahy, on page 92. The star colourist takes time out of her busy schedule to chat to us as we reveal her latest collection (from page 102); an edgy, cool and sexy take on the disco era. She discusses how she hopes her win will push her career as a colourist forward after she made the tough decision to move on from Lisa Shepherd salons. Thinking about your education for the next year? Pin down your colour courses now with our selection of the best of the year ahead on page 110. And make sure you’ve got your diary to hand as we reveal the not-to-be-missed colour events taking place over the next year, on page 108. Finally, keep your shelves fully stocked with our round-up of all the latest colour products on page 112. Beth Davie Editor, Colour Forecast
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Cover image: Majirouge from L’Oréal Professionnel
We also look at the newest phenomenon taking over the colour world – bonding additives – and ask if it really lives up to all the hype.
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ASHISH WHERE Topshop Show Space, Tate Britain, London. THE LOOK Party girls who make bad look great, with self-trimmed fringes and DIY mullets. THE STYLIST Ali Pirzadeh for L’Oréal Professionnel. THE COLOUR Choppy fauxfringes in contrasting colours were attached to create a punky look. The blacks, dirty blondes, lilacs and pinks contrasted with the models’ real hair for a rebellious vibe.
Colour THE HOTTEST HUES STRAIGHT FROM THE A/W15 CATWALKS
LIBERTINE WHERE Lincoln Center, New York. THE LOOK The brand delivered a suitably free-spirited look that saw graphic colours and lines collide with grungy texture. THE STYLIST Thomas Osborn for TIGI. THE COLOUR Centre-partings were centre-stage with a flash of pink that extended from the crown until it just touched the forehead. If the Libertine models are freedom fighters, then this is war paint.
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SIBLING WHERE BFC Courtyard Show Space, Somerset House, London. THE LOOK This broke all the rules we thought we knew about hair. Crimping? Neon? Gravity-defying? THE STYLIST Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO. THE COLOUR Jet-black hair was pulled into spikes and Mohicans and given flashes of orange and pink. The result was brash, bold and shouted as loud as the clothes themselves.
couture WHERE Freemasons’ Hall, London. THE LOOK Haunting and mysterious, this slicked-back look was reminiscent of twisted fairytales and dark magic. THE STYLIST Silje Vincent for Toni&Guy. THE COLOUR Most models had her hair sprayed black to match her skin and clothing – except for the final model, an all-white bride who closed the show.
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Images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, L’Oréal Professionnel, TIGI and Toni&Guy
MARKO MITANOVSKI
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Armed forces are on the move this season, but it’s less Dad’s Army and more Demi Moore in A Few Good Men – this girl is simply too busy to worry about her hair. It’s muted but modern; worn but definitely not tired…
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Wella Professionals
Trend #1 SEVEN NATION ARMY
Kanye West X Adidas Originals
“These khaki-inspired colours work well for everyone. Think about the colour placement – using ash undertones will warm up the roots so the colour doesn’t look too flat” SUZIE MCGILL, RAINBOW ROOM INTERNATIONAL
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Topshop Unique
GET IT IN THE SALON…
Alexis Mabille
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It’s the groupie’s time to take the spotlight. She’s eye-catching, but never obvious. Hair has a subtle shine and a brightness that cannot be dimmed.
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Charlotte Ronson
Trend #2 ALMOST FAMOUS
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Sass & Bide
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Dolce & Gabbana
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“These shades really complement blue or green eyes. The look can be created by adding soft copper tones throughout highlighted hair using highlighting or freehand techniques”
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Marc by Marc Jacobs
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HOB Salons
GET IT IN THE SALON… “To achieve this look in salon, opt for a sheer black semi-permanent full head colour or work with a cooler brunette shade for sleek, high-shine colour. Wella Professionals Illumina is great for achieving cooler brunettes that are dark and sultry with a gothic edge”
Allilon
“To recreate the shades as seen on the catwalks, we use our crescent lightning technique using cool caramel tones. On naturally brown hair, I use the L’Oréal Professionnel Majirel Studio Blond Sunkissed Lightening Oil”
Just Cavalli
GET IT IN THE SALON…
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Brown has only ever been a lukewarm trend at best, but this is a glossier take than in previous years. This cocoa hue is an altogether bolder, bronder and just plain better hue. Hot stuff!
Shrimps
Blumarine
AKIN KONIZI, HOB SALONS
Trend #4 HOT CHOCOLATE
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Jenny Packham
Francesco Group
Jacob Birge
C O A LO C O U R R N
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Alberta Ferretti
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CAROLYN NEWMAN, CHARLES WORTHINGTON
Jean-Pierre Braganza
TIGI, Toni&Guy, Unite, Wella Professionals
Images courtesy of Aveda, Davines, L’Oréal Professionnel, Moroccanoil, Redken,
L’Oréal Professionnel
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It’s back to black this season as we draw upon our inner Morticia Addams (there’s one in all of us) to reveal a new depth to the shade. Less gothic and more sexy, this shade can’t be vamped up enough…
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Trend #3 BLACK WIDOW
Zeynep Kartal
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#ColourForecast
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ROCK ON
Red rules this autumn so make sure you have a shade for everyone with the new Fudge Professional Headpaint Oz Rocks Intense Reds white coverage. Each of the Intense Reds contains pure pigments for vibrant and long-lasting results. Here’s how it works: molecules penetrate deeply into the hair structure, delivering superior light-reflective shine, longevity and clarity to all results. You can also reassure clients that their hair is being cared for throughout the colour process thanks to the natural botanical extracts and hydrolysed rice protein that ensure the hair remains in excellent condition. Tracy Hayes, global head of technical training for Fudge Professional, says: “I felt that the Fudge Professional Headpaint range was missing a few vital tones in the red family, so we added to our intense copper, introduced brand new violet pink reds (a must for A/W15) and three vibrant cherry reds. These colours all complement the existing mahogany tones and complete the red colour palette.” So let your redheaded clients know that this season, you’re ready to rock red no matter which shade turns their heads.
Image: Mazella & Palmer Creative Team for Fudge Professional
REDHEADS ALWAYS come into their own in autumn. Whether they’re a soft copper pixie or a scarlet siren, now you can keep up with all your redhead demands thanks to the new intense shades that are joining the Fudge Professional Headpaint family of reds. Versatile and economical, the Oz Rocks Intense Reds feature a dual colour system, enabling them to be used as a demi and a permanent colour. This is great for colour-shy clients and it also ensures tight stock levels in the salon, making the range a versatile and economical option. The shades are also extremely easy to use as they have been created with the colour specialist in mind who wants to see outstanding results, every time. And when used with the Fudge Professional Catalyst Developer, which gently regulates oxygen release to help ensure accurate lift, deposit and exact colour balancing, the colourist has a fully intermixable professional colour palette that provides 100 per cent grey/
RED-HOT!
Fudge We’ve got five Headpaint Professional nse Reds Oz Rock Inte give ks Intro Pac to visit r, te en To away. ag. creativeheadm com
Get ready to rock red with the new Fudge Professional Headpaint Oz Rocks Intense Reds. To find out more, call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudgeprofessional.com 88
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PROMOTION
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GLOW ON GET YOUR
Colour inevitably loses its shine over time, but you can help clients fight the fade with the new KC Professional Color Mask Shampoos
NO MATTER HOW good a client’s hue looks as they leave the salon, you know it can’t last. Frequent shampooing is one of the most common causes of hair colour fade as it can remove pigment from the hair and leave a dull tone. KC Professional has created a shampoo that aims to fight this and more. Color Mask Shampoo has been developed especially for colour-treated hair and contains plenty of pigment
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to maintain hair colour, while the gentle formula and conditioning agents strengthen locks, making them easier to manage. Now clients can keep the glow and shine of freshly coloured hair until their next colour appointment. KC Professional Color Mask Shampoo (RRP £11.95) is suitable for all of your colour-treated clients. With four versatile shades available, you know there is a product to suit each one.
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PROMOTION
RED
Maintains the radiance of red hair and prevents colour fade.
PEARL
Gives blonde hair pearly radiance while removing yellow hues.
BROWN
Maintains deep, intensive tones and prevents colour fade for brown hair.
BEIGE
Tones down yellow hues found in blonde and light brown looks.
MAINTAIN AND REPAIR
You’ve read all about the new KC Color Mask Shampoo, but do you know about the original KC Color Mask (RRP £12.95)? It’s an intensive treatment that maintains and deepens your client’s shade of coloured hair. Containing ProVitamin B5 and keratin derivatives, it effectively repairs and reconstructs chemically treated and damaged hair, ideal for clients who want to refresh their coloured hair in-between visits.
To discover what KC Professional could do for you, call Salon Success on 0845 659 0011 or visit salon-success.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Prime time
Most Wanted 2015 Colour Expert Katie Mulcahy is a superstar colourist; we find out what’s next for the girl who can do no wrong
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#ColourForecast
TURNING 30 CAN DO strange things to a girl; no longer able to get away with saying you’re twenty-something, you feel you’ve finally joined the grown-ups club. For Katie Mulcahy, it was odd to think she was now too old for awards like The It List. “I used to enter a lot of competitions that were all for under the age of 30 and it’s strange realising I can’t do them anymore,” she says. And it was Katie’s passion for entering competitions from a young age that has helped her become the success she is today. “I put in an entry to the Wella Professionals TrendVision Award in 2005 and I was finalised. I then entered L’Oréal Professionnel’s Talentspotting in 2006 and I won,” explains Katie. From a young age Katie was completely enamoured with the hairdressing industry, but it wasn’t that her family was in the business, she just used to love the salon experience and got a job as a Saturday girl. “It was in Stafford and it was a bit of a granny salon if I’m honest, but everyone was very friendly and when I left school, I was offered an apprenticeship with the salon.” Granny salon or not, the training Katie received was from the Francesco Group and once she qualified, she made the move permanently to the group. “I worked as a stylist at Francesco Group for five years,” explains Katie. Not a colourist, we ask the Most Wanted Colour Expert of 2015? She laughs and explains that while she received a qualification in colour at the Francesco Group, she had to specialise in one or the other when she moved to the group’s Church Lane salon. “I always knew I wanted to be more, but I didn’t colour at the time. However, I really missed doing colour work and hated having to hand my clients over to the colour technicians – the colour never looked exactly how I wanted it to.” It was around about this time that Katie got a taste for entering hair competitions. After winning L’Oréal Professionnel’s
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Talentspotting, Katie was given her first big break by yours truly. “Creative HEAD sponsored the shoot I won,” she says. “Seeing my work in print was amazing and I met so many people who have supported me. It opened a lot of doors.” Despite her success at Francesco, Katie knew she wanted to explore colour more. “I’m from the Midlands, so for me the best colourist around is Lisa Shepherd,” she says. “I did a trade test at her salon and I took a model from brown to blonde in one go – I think Lisa was quite impressed.” From that moment on, Katie worked side by side with Lisa. “She really ignited my passion for colour and made me much stronger. I began to do more colouring than cutting.” Katie was made creative director at Lisa Shepherd and spent seven happy years at the salon. But eventually she had to move on. “It took me about a year and a half to finally work up the courage to leave,” she reveals. “But I felt it was time for me to stand on my own two feet.” It was around this time that she got a second big break as she was asked to do a shoot at quite short notice for Rusk. “I did it and the brand was very happy and asked if I’d like to be a brand ambassador,” says Katie. While work with Rusk does take up a lot of Katie’s time, she’s also been able to keep doing salon work as she has a chair at boutique salon Dale Hairdressing in Birmingham. But it was winning the Most Wanted 2015 Colour Expert that showed she made the right decision to strike out on her own. “Winning feels incredible. I was so happy to be be there in the room with so many of my icons. It’s been a great thing to achieve after leaving as a few people were shocked,” she explains. The win has made Katie even more determined, but, she says, as long as she keeps doing what she’s doing – seeing clients and doing shoots – she’s happy.
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PROMOTION
ENJOY THE FINER THINGS
BEAUTIFUL, WEARABLE AND EXPENSIVE-LOOKING HAIR IS NOW POSSIBLE WITH THE NEW ROSE GOLD SHADES FROM TIGI COPYRIGHT©OLOUR – FOR THOSE WHO LIKE TO INDULGE THINK OF THE opulence of Chanel and the bejewelled models at Givenchy this season, throw in the exuberance found in an Arabic gold souk and a touch of indulgent silk, and you’ve got the latest antique, vintage rose gold and gorgeous chocolate suede shades from TIGI copyright©olour. Developed by the TIGI International Creative Team, the eight shades are perfect for those who like to add a little indulgence and stay on trend. “The colour palette for this autumn and winter is rich, deep and complex. I’m excited about these new shades because they’re completely on-trend,” says Christel Lundqvist, TIGI global technical creative director. There are three Creative shades and five ammoniafree Gloss shades to choose from. The creative colours are developed in a permanent base and offer four levels of lift. They’re ideal for blending non-pigmented hair and work well when you’re looking for increased coverage mixed with a quarter of the corresponding natural shades. The Gloss shades are developed in a demi-permanent base and are perfect for refreshing corresponding TIGI copyright©olour Creative shades through the lengths and ends, as well as toning prelightened hair. The Gloss shades can also lift up to one level when used with 20 vol/6% Activator, making them a great introduction to low-commitment colour.
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MAKE IT YOUR OWN LOVE THE NEW ANTIQUE AND VINTAGE SHADES BY TIGI COPYRIGHT©OLOUR? DISCOVER HOW TO MAKE THEM WORK FOR YOUR CLIENT WITH OUR HANDY STEP-BY-STEP
DIFFUSE THE SITUATION
THE DIFFUSED SILHOUETTE TECHNIQUE, CREATED BY CHRISTEL LUNDQVIST, TIGI GLOBAL TECHNICAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, GIVES THE FACE A FLATTERING CONTOURING EFFECT, CREATING LIFT AND BRIGHTENING THE COMPLEXION
Step one: Create a profile parting from the forehead to the top of the crown. Step two: Two inches back from the profile parting, create a circular section to the high recession. Take a larger circular section from the high recession to the back of the ear. Secure with TIGI PRO clips. Repeat on the opposite side. Step three: At the low crown, create a horizontal parting from radial to radial. Secure the two sections with TIGI PRO clips. Step four: Using protective gloves, take a horizontal parting and apply formula 1 to new growth through the lengths and
THE FORMULAS NATURAL LEVEL: 5/0 LIGHT BROWN FORMULA 1 RICH SUEDE 30G GLOSS 4/30 + 30G GLOSS 6/30 + 90G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55%
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ends. Place a TIGI copyright©olour meche strip at the nape. Continue through to low crown. Step five: Take a horizontal parting from the low crown. Apply formula 1 to new growth through to mid-lengths. With freehand blending, apply formula 2 to the lengths and ends. Isolate with a TIGI copyright©olour meche strip. Step six: On the side circular section, take a slight diagonal parting. Apply formula 1 to the new growth through to mid-lengths. With freehand blending, apply formula 3 to lengths and ends. Isolate and repeat on the opposite side.
Step seven: For last section, take fine slices and apply formula 1 to new growth through to mid-lengths. Use freehand blending to apply formula 3 to lengths and ends. Isolate section. Repeat on the opposite side. Step eight: Between each slice, apply formula 1 to new growth through to mid-lengths. Process colour for 20 minutes. Emulsify, rinse and remove using Catwalk by TIGI Oatmeal & Honey shampoo and conditioner. Tone pre-lightened sections with formula 4. Process for up to 20 minutes. Emulsify, rinse and remove.
FORMULA 2 LIGHT SUEDE 40G GLOSS 6/30 + 60G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55% FORMULA 3 40G TRUE LIGHT + 60G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55% FORMULA 4 (TONER) CAMEL 30G GLOSS 7/32 + 45G ACTIVATOR 8.5VOL/2.55%
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PROMOTION
Invent it. Own it. Indulge in it. For more information on TIGI copyright©olour’s vintage and antique rose gold shades, visit tigiprofessional.com/colour or call 0844 844 0944
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QUOTE CHOCT to receive
ÂŁ25 off your membership
before 31st October *terms and conditions apply
To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info www.nhf.info
&DESTROY
SEARCH
Inspired by the ’70s American punk era, Dystopia from Matthew Sutcliffe features edgy colour, aggressive disconnections and an undercurrent of modernism PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEVE GABBETT
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HAIR Matthew Sutcliffe MAKE-UP Alison Westaby STYLING Jemima Robinson
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love I feel
Take a slice of disco and fuse it with a youthful vibe inspired by today’s music. It’s edgy, cool and sexy from our 2015 Most Wanted Colour Expert, Katie Mulcahy for Rusk PHOTOGRAPHY BY PAUL SCALA
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HAIR Katie Mulcahy for RUSK UK MAKE-UP Jaimee Thomas STYLING Kim Howells
e v a H ou y rd? a e h r nge a h e-c am by the g new t goes is a s ’ Th di re r The wn an nding. ng hai ay o in t e of bo f treati e the w But nam way o chang rever. lly o o new ises t olour f s it rea m e pro ns do c nd do ? e a salo t is it he hyp wha up to t live
What is it? Essentially, bonding is all about repairing and strengthening the bonds in the hair that get damaged through the chemical process. “We all know that colouring hair causes damage,” says Elena Lavagni, from Neville Hair & Beauty. “This is because the colourist needs to ‘break’ the bonds in the hair.” But depending on which brand you opt for, each one works a bit differently. Rory Share, managing director of Michelle Griffin in Birmingham, has recently taken on Olaplex. He says: “Olaplex features a Bond Multiplying System, which acts as a reset button for the hair. This rebuilds the strength, structure and integrity of the hair.” Where Olaplex multiplies the bonds, Fibreplex, by Schwarzkopf Professional, acts as a ‘bodyguard’ for the hair bonds. Tai Walker, head of colour at Mahogany Hairdressing, says: “Fibreplex reinforces hair’s inner structure during a lightening or colouring service.” Other brands, such as Colorphlex, Kebelo Bondage, Keratin Complex’s Vitalshot and KeraStraight’s Innoluxe, use low-weight or vegetable protein molecules to penetrate the inner structure of the hair, reinforcing bonds.
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#ColourForecast
Image courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional
What does it mean for your clients? “Clients will love these new services,” says Paul Standen May, colour director at The Egg in Norwich. “It makes the previously unachievable achievable.” Where once a client had gone one bleach too many, these new additives make it a possibility that their hair can be restored. “The demand for ombre and balayage styles mean that salons are using bleach on the longer and weaker hair lengths, so having a product that repairs and gives greater freedom to achieve more is going to make a big difference to what salon’s can achieve, offering clients more varied creative options,” says Kerastraight’s managing director, Jez Barnett. However, Neville Hair & Beauty’s Elena points out that these new services aren’t ‘miracle workers’. “If your client’s hair is seriously compromised and you wouldn’t normally process their hair, don’t just because you now have one of these new bonding services,” she advises. “It’s not a magic wand.” But it does repair and strengthen. Fibreplex reports 94 per cent less hair breakage and Colorphlex claims that it makes hair up to four times stronger.
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How do you use it? Again, the process depends on which brand you use, but there are standard application techniques. The bonding additive is added into any colour or bleach product and processed as usual. Most colour additive brands say they can be mixed with any colour brand and with no higher level of developer needed, but the quantity of colour additive used depends on the amount of repair required. Most claim not to require a patch test, but check with the manufacturer before using, just to be sure. There then follows a step two, which acts like a treatment and is carried out at the backwash. This usually just needs a 10-minute processing time. Step three is at-home products – giving salons the chance to sell retail to their clients. “Step three is really important,” stresses Tai Walker. “I sometimes advise giving the third product, such as the Schwarzkopf Professional Fibreplex Bond Maintainer, as part of a package when recommending the service. So that if they pay for the bonding service in-salon, they get to take the aftercare product home for free. This ties them into your salon, too.”
What does it mean for your colour business? Ultimately, it means you can charge more money for the bonding service. “Olaplex is a premium service and it means you can charge more for a better service,” says The Egg’s Paul. Tai Walker argues that an additional 20 per cent could be added to the ticket price. But perhaps even more important than the bottom line is what the bonding services say about your salon. “It potentially provides us with a great hook to win back any at-home hair colour consumers,” says Mark Creed, technical director at Idlewild salon group in Oxfordshire. But check with your insurer to see if you’re covered. “We know that some colour brands have confirmed they accept no responsibility as the end mix is not solely theirs,” says Gary Crowder, from Just Hair Insurance. “Until insurers have confirmation that the third party companies accept the final mix and that it is their instructions to be followed, including a skin test if outside of the colour house testing system, it will fall to the salon/freelancer as the responsible person to handle the matter without recourse to their insurance policy.” INTERESTED BUT STILL WARY? Visit creativeheadmag.com for our in-depth report on bonding and what it means for salon insurance
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Wella Professionals TrendVision International Final 2014
MAKE IT HAPPEN GET YOURSELF OUT AND ABOUT AT THESE SPECTACULAR SHOWS!
GOLDWELL GLOBAL ZOOM ’15 Where Las Vegas, US When 4 October Colourists from around the globe fight for three Color Zoom crowns – Partner Colorist, Creative Colorist and New Talent Colorist – and a place on the Color Zoom Creative Team ’17. Call 020 7318 4000
TONI&GUY MAINSTAGE Where Copper Box Arena, Olympic Park, London When 4 October With special guest singer Jess Glynne and loads of artistic inspiration and fashion-forward looks from the guys behind dozens of LFW shows, this is a not-tobe-missed event. Visit toniandguy.com
WELLA PROFESSIONALS UK & IRELAND TRENDVISION AWARD FINAL Where Roundhouse, London When 5 October Hosted by TV presenter Claudia Winkleman, the evening will include collections from awardwinning art teams from
HOB Salons, Marc Antoni and Sanrizz and a show from Sebastian Professional. Call 0845 601 8128 DON’T MISS IT! The International TrendVision Award Final is in Berlin, Germany, on 22 November.
THE ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW Where Royal Albert Hall, London When 11 October This year’s theme is Aurora and it promises to be a colourful show. Teams such as Andrew Collinge, Saco and the TIGI Creative Team will be on stage, while competing stylists vie for the International Visionary Awards. Visit alternativehair.org
LA BIOSTHETIQUE BEAUTY STYLIST AWARDS Where Paris, France When 25 October Alex Walker of Torquay’s Kaboodles Hairdressing is representing the UK in the international final of La Biosthetique’s Beauty Stylist Awards – good luck! Visit beautystylist.com
AVEDA CONGRESS Where Minneapolis, US When 31 October to 4 November A great way to be among the first to see the hot new trends from Aveda, and be inspired by both business and creativity, with artists such as Ian Michael Black, Jo McKay and Lupe Voss hitting the stage. Visit avedacongress15.com
DAVINES WORLD WIDE HAIR TOUR Where Los Angeles, US When 17 to 19 January 2016 With Angelo Seminara and Allilon Education on stage,
you know you’re going to see some unique and innovative and colour and styling! Will also host the World Style Contest grand final. Call 020 3301 5449
THE COTERIE Where London When Four times a year min. Creative HEAD’s exclusive networking club offers a unique chance to mix with your peers and hear from the biggest names. Previous guests include colour king Josh Wood and session supremo Sam McKnight. Visit creativeheadmag.com/ events
PREP NOW!
L’OREAL COLOUR TROPHY 2016
The iconic colour competition kicks off in earnest come January, so start thinking 2016 colour trends. The site, lorealcolourtrophy.com, launches on 4 January 2016. Entries must be in by 26 February. Call 020 8762 555.
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PROMOTION
Banish grey days for good Discover why the new Hair Touch Up blending product for grey roots from L’Oréal Professionnel will keep your clients confident about their colour
The salon has had Hair Touch Up for nearly two months now. Clients love it and sales are flying through the roof. Quick, simple and easy to use. I don’t know how we managed without it!” CHARLES DODDS, CUTTING ROOM CREATIVE, LEEDS
Hair Touch Up gives immediate coverage and it’s also a fabulous add-on, with no skin test required. We’re already seeing repurchases and clients buying on recommendation.” CLAIRE DENYER, SAKS, KINGS HILL
My clients are prepared for any occasion with Hair Touch Up. The compact size and the precise application makes it perfect for clients to use on-the-go. It’s what we’ve been waiting for.” IVAN KOSTADINOV, PETER MARK, ARKLOW
Hair Touch Up by L’Oréal Professionnel is an absolute life saver for my clients with grey hair. It hides their roots in just a few seconds and it’s great value for money too. It sells itself.”
PAUL COX, ATHERTON COX, LONDON
It’s easy to use and banishes grey hairs instantly – perfect for those emergency occasions in-between salon appointments. It’s value for money and gives you another chance to talk colour with clients.” SIMON REZA ASHTARI, HEADMASTERS, BROMLEY MARKET SQUARE
What’s all the fuss about? L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL Hair Touch Up is kind of a big deal – it’s what women need to cover greys between appointments and banishes grey roots in seconds. And with the On The Day Grey Away service, salons can offer a quickfix to new clients who don’t have an up-to-date allergy alert test or time for a full colour treatment. Women will feel happy, confident and loyal to the salon that helped them banish their greys.
Make sure your salon is ready to banish your client’s grey roots from one colour appointment to another. To find out more, call 0845 600 0122 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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Image courtesy of Goldwell
IN THE ZONE
DISCOVER THE LATEST COURSES FROM THE BIGGEST COLOUR BRANDS
AVEDA HAIR COLOUR SYSTEMS
JOICO VERO K-PAK COLOR ESSENTIALS
JOICO
L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL
Join Aveda’s colouring pros for an introductory workshop that will boost your confidence in using Aveda Full Spectrum Colour. WHEN 2 November WHERE London BOOK 0870 428 6382
On this course, you will gain a thorough and deep understanding of the Joico colour portfolio. This is a perfect opportunity to ask questions and receive answers on all your key colour concerns. WHEN 3 and 23 November WHERE Alan Howard Crewe and Wolverhampton BOOK 01270 581307 (Crewe), 01902 351111 (Wolverhampton)
The freehand approach to applying colour has never been more popular, so perfecting your approach will allow you to create these popular celebrity looks and get great results every time. WHEN Monthly WHERE London BOOK 0800 028 3448
LA BIOSTHÉTIQUE
Become the resident blonde expert in your salon! This includes BlondMe live demos and practical workshops designed to deepen your understanding and refine your techniques. WHEN 26 October WHERE London BOOK 020 7724 7931
AVEDA
DAVINES
COLLECTION WORKSHOP Discover the looks and techniques behind the latest Davines collection, created by artistic director, Angelo Seminara. This seminar is taught alongside Edoardo Paludo, international creative colour ambassador. WHEN 19 October WHERE London BOOK 020 3301 5449
GOLDWELL
ADVANCED FASHION COLORING Explore the unlimited possibilities of fashion colouring and create statements for clients. WHEN 11, 25 November WHERE London BOOK 020 3540 1200
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COLOUR INNOVATE Join an expert member of the La Biosthétique Colour Team for this truly inspirational one-day course. You will be guided through the very latest fashion and trend colouring techniques, allowing delegates to unleash their own creative processes and develop bespoke signature colour work. WHEN 12 October WHERE Aylesbury and Dundee, Scotland BOOK 01296 611 731/info@ biosthetique.co.uk
BALAYAGE, OMBRE AND FREEHAND TECHNIQUES
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
BLONDME PERFECTION (ZENITH)
TIGI
CREATIVE CONSULTATION The ultimate consultation tool for all colourists, Christel Lundqvist and her Global Technical Creative Team take an original and
individual approach to growing your colour business via new creative thinking and enhanced fashion knowledge. WHEN 2–3 November WHERE London BOOK 0844 800 9121
TONI&GUY
FUTURE FOUNDATION: COLOUR With the emphasis firmly on upgrading, strengthening and perfecting colouring techniques, this empowering and motivating three-day course focuses on building confidence and knowledge. WHEN Every Monday WHERE London/Manchester BOOK 020 7836 0606
WELLA PROFESSIONALS ILLUMINA COLOUR BOUTIQUE
Perfect for creative and inspired colourists who want to build on creating a complete image, you’ll master couture colour services that deliver a bespoke finish. WHEN 23 November WHERE London BOOK 020 7637 7172
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PROMOTION
Lip service
No serious trendsetter should be without La Biosthétique’s Glossing service – it’s lip gloss for the hair SHINY HAIR IS associated with health and vibrancy – we can get over most of our hair horrors if the shine is still there. The new Glossing colouring service by La Biosthétique enhances every hair colour and is for all hair types. It maintains natural colour play within the hair, without changing the shade permanently, so is ideal for those who are new to colour or who do not want to get their hair coloured permanently. Clients with over-processed, dull and stressed hair will also love the service as it enhances every hair colour, illuminating every single hair strand to create a magnificent, healthy and spectacular shine.
THE LA BIOSTHÉTIQUE GLOSSING SERVICE • Enhances colour results with radiant shine and optimum protection • Pigments directly penetrate hair with a physical tint for temporary colour results • Provides 100 per cent protection without chemically changing, weighing down or lightening the hair • Gives great temporary colour results that completely and evenly wash out • Gives the hair bounce and lasting moisture thanks to its gentle formula
Get your gloss on with the La Biosthétique Glossing service. To find out more, call 01296 611731 or visit biosthetique.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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T I K R U O COL
WITH E V O L SOME HE MARKET S T N R CLIE UCTS ON T U O Y SHOW TEST PROD OT THE H
1.
3. FALL IN LOVE Give your clients an autumnal makeover for the new season with the new range of coppers and reds that are joining the Fudge Professional Headpaint range. In-salon service. 020 7845 6333, fudgeprofessional.com
5.
STAY BRIGHT KC Professional Color Mask Shampoo, in four shades, combats fading and gently cleanses. RRP £12.95. 0845 659 0011, salon-success.co.uk
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SILVER SHADES Banish brassiness with the latest additions to the OSMO Colour Mission Silverising Collection – the new mask and styler protect and nourish. RRP from £7.95. 0141 812 5000, osmo.uk.com
1. ROSE TINTED The five new shades from TIGI copyright©olour give clients a warm glow to refresh and update their look. In-salon service. 0844 844 0944, uk.tigiprofessional.com/colour
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NEW NATURAL The cool, mineral-inspired colours from Wella Professional’s Koleston Perfect Innosense brings colour back to Earth. In-salon service. 01202 595700, wella.com
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COOL COLOUR Let clients embrace their creativity and change their colour as often as their clothes with Keune’s Color Craving – eight fashionable shades for vibrant, temporary results. In-salon service. 0333 123 4411, keune.uk.com
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7.
8.
SOFT TONES La Biosthetique’s new paddle and brush enable colourists to provide a wash of colour in a whole range of sorbet shades. In-salon service. 01296 611731, labiosthetique.co.uk
COVER UP Clients can say goodbye to stray greys or cover their roots between appointments with the L’Oréal Professionnel Hair Touch Up. RRP £12.99. 0845 600 0122, lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
9.
PLANT POWER J beverly hills colour contains blends of natural ingredients, such as aloe vera and acai berry for spectacular shades. In-salon service. 01753 444444, fbilondon.co.uk TOOLS OF THE TRADE 24*7 Foils by Procare are robust and durable, helping you to give clients high-quality colour. RRP £18.95. 0330 123 1907, salon-services.com
12.
PURE WHITE Make mature hair sparkle with pearl extracts thanks to the BC Excellium Q10+ Pearl Beautifying aftercare range for silver and white hair. RRP from £11.75. 01296 314000, schwarzkopfprofessional.co.uk
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10. 11.
13.
RUBY RED Create durable, on-trend looks with the fiery new shades of coppers and reds from Goldwell Topchic. In-salon service. 01323 432100, goldwell.co.uk
BRILLIANT BLONDE Conquer Blonde Shampoo from Original & Mineral uses cool tones to keep your client’s highlights looking sharp and super shiny. RRP £27. 07894 069808, originalmineral.com
14.
SWEET TREATS Joico Vero K-Pak Color DuoLight is available in two intermixable shades – caramel and butterscotch – for a truly delicious colour. In-salon service. 0845 071 2326, joico.com
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PLATINUM BLONDES ON THE WAeNE is
de styl The once popular platinum blon ular shade pop t mos th four the waning – it was de and ash after honey blonde, golden blon retail experts blonde, in a study carried out by essionnel. Prof Kantar Worldpanel for L’Oréal ‘as look to t Half of all blondes now wan n per cent seve just nst natural as possible’ agai The be’. can as de blon who wanted to be ‘as I Am el’s onn essi Prof al ’Oré L of research is part n. paig cam My Blonde
Colour on the fly
The blow-dry bar Duck & Dry is aiming to extend the fast beauty trend to hair colour with the launch of its Premium Express Colour Lounge. In collaboration with Elena Lavagni, director of Neville Hair & Beauty, Duck & Dry aims to have the best colour training in order to create premium colour touch-ups. Services will take a maximum of one hour and prices start from £45.
DKNY
Spectrum
PSST!
REDKEN has opened its first ever Redken Blonde Bar in Lulu Blonde in Wimbledon. Keep your eyes peeled for more details
Keep up-to-date with all the colour and beauty trends, techniques and too-good-to-leave-out news
Metal guru
COLOUR IN BEAUTY
When it comes to beauty this seas on, it’s all about the eyes. “The standout make-up trend for A/W15 is ‘floating eyeliner’, a look that’s made quite a presence at fashion capitals across the glob e,” says Nilam Patel, founder of HD Brows. To get the look for clients, Nilam suggests adding a line of eyeliner, such as HD Brows Make Up Duo Gel Eyeliner, away from the actual eyeline, in the socket, just above the eyelid crease or beneath the eye.
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When it comes to nails, the catwalk’s penchant for metallic, glittering shades follow through to beauty with essie’s latest collection, featuring a stunning bronze and dark gunmetal duo, inspired by the ’70s music scene. “The effortless beauty and edgy elegance of the female rockers and rock star muses were the driving force behind my collection for essie,” says essie global colour designer, Rebecca Minkoff. “No women made more of their trendsetting style than the ladies who infiltrated the ranks of rock ‘n’ roll in the ’70s.”
A FINE VINTAGE
The autumn palette is full of wine and plum hues to create classic beauty with a touch of drama. Aveda’s Sublime Spirit beauty collection captures the A/W15 vibe with its Nourish-Mint Smoothing Lip Colour in Blackberry, NourishMint Lip Liner in Purple Sage and Petal Essence Single Eye Colour in Blue Pais.
CREATIVE HEAD
23/09/2015 15:40
semi-permanent hair color cream
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17/09/2015 11:18
505387 Silverising Creative Head FP 285x220mm v3 OUTLINED.indd 1
21/09/2015 11:47
CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM NEWS
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Hair by Sasson Academy
Oxygen
MAGAZINE
Giles A/W14: Hair by Tony&Guy
Win an exclusive salon makeover courtesy of Aveda and Creative HEAD
Monique Lhuillier S/S16 courtesy of Moroccanoil
Get your tickets for Salon Smart 2016 – book now!
Catch up with all the hottest S/S16 looks fresh off the runway
Creative HEAD Magazine
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@creativeheadmag
Lose yourself in Christophe Gaillet’s striking new collection, Timeless
@creativeheadmag
23/09/2015 12:21
T OP SH EL F
MALE GROOMING Katie Eary
THE DEATH OF THE HIPSTER HAS BEEN GREATLY EXAGGERATED. WITH BEARDS, QUIFFS AND MAN-BUNS STILL ALL THE RAGE, WHAT ARE THE KEY PRODUCTS AND INNOVATIONS IN MALE GROOMING?
AS A BACKSTAGE regular at London Collections: Men, Fudge Professional has created looks for fashion heavyweights including Belstaff, Katie Eary and Craig Green. Backstage at the LC:M S/S16 shows, Fudge stylists were road-testing the new Fudge Professional Xpander Jelly to create the full-bodied looks trending this season – think heavy fringes, rockabilly quiffs and voluminous curls. The formula contains wheat proteins and keratin to provide thickness and bulk, while maintaining the hair’s natural texture. John Vial, creative director at Fudge Professional, says: “It’s the miracle product men have been waiting for – not only is it going to reignite their hair, it will reignite their confidence, too”. Everyone from models to clients and even finehaired girls can benefit from it.
RRP £12.95
fudgeprofessional.com
TIGI Bedhead for Men Slick Trick Pomade delivers a firm hold without a greasy finish. It is perfect for long-lasting styles.
Get stuck in with Aveda Men Pure-formance Grooming Clay, which adds definition and texture while remaining workable.
Goldwell’s Dualsenses For Men has three shampoos for targeted cleansing and a varied styling range.
aveda.co.uk
goldwell. co.uk
RRP FROM £21
RRP FROM £13.95
RRP FROM £10
bedhead.com
Become a sculptor with Original & Mineral K Gravel Texture Clay with beeswax and pumice stone.
bumbleandbumble.co.uk
originalmineral.com
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RRP £20
windleandmoodie.com
Sumotech by Bumble and bumble has the attributes of a wax, paste and crème, but doesn’t overload fine hair.
RRP £22
Windle & Moodie Volcanic Ash Wax was inspired by a trip to Iceland – the unusual ingredient gives a gritty, lived-in texture.
RRP £22.50
THE ALLROUNDER
Prep hair for styling with label. men Scalp Tonic, a multitasking lotion that soothes irritation, increases density and adds a boost of hydration.
RRP £10.95
labelm.com/uk
CREATIVE HEAD
23/09/2015 15:41
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
What a man
OSMO – already the go-to hair brand for men – has two new additions for the man who knows what he wants
STRAIGHT FROM THE success of its redesigned range, OSMO is introducing two new grooming products, Fibre Sculpt and Pomade Hold. The new high-shine OSMO Pomade Hold is formulated with pure beeswax to sculpt anything from the traditional groomed looks to the more trend-led styles. But for a little more flexibility, OSMO Fibre Sculpt is the answer. The lightweight fibrous sculptor allows clients to personalise and define any style, while offering a good amount of hold. So whichever kind of man your client is, you can be sure OSMO has a product for him.
More for the man Men are far more loyal to a brand than women. Offer OSMO grooming products and male clients will keep coming back.
Matt Salt Spray A matt texturising sea salt spray for gritty and messed up hair.
Extreme Extra Firm Gel Spray This creates and holds all hairstyles, while adding a glossy shine.
Matte Clay Extreme An extreme hold wax that creates superior definition and stops flyaways.
Join the OSMO revolution in male grooming today. For more details, email sales@osmo.uk.com or visit osmo.uk.com
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Richard James S/S16. Hair styled by Anthony Rawlings and the GO24•7 Styling team
#MaleGrooming
FIGHT MALE HAIR THINNING NOT SURPRISINGLY, A MAJOR HAIR WORRY among men is hair loss – but you can boost your client’s growth and confidence by recommending a thickening shampoo. GO24•7’s Mint Thickening Shampoo is packed with honey and menthol to rejuvenate cells on the scalp and stimulate blood flow, while Schwarzkopf Professional [3D]MEN Root Activator Shampoo is packed with taurine to activate the follicles and increase hair production. L’Oréal Professionnel L’ORÉAL Homme Fiberboost Densifying Shampoo, featuring natural PROFESSIONNEL guarana, gives thinning hair a visible boost and to make hair HOMME feel fuller without weighing it down, Kérastase Homme FIBERBOOST Capital Force Densifying Shampoo does the job. DENSIFYING Nioxin Cleanser 1 declogs the follicles to allow SHAMPOO greater growth.
RRP £10.99
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
NIOXIN CLEANSER 1
RRP £18.10
nioxin.com
KÉRASTASE HOMME CAPITAL FORCE DENSIFYING SHAMPOO
RRP £16
kerastase.co.uk
GO24•7 MINT THICKENING SHAMPOO
£10.95
go247men.com
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL [3D]MEN ROOT ACTIVATOR SHAMPOO
RRP £10.20
schwarzkopf-professional.co.uk
Get rid of buildup from gels, pomades and waxes with the Mitch Heavy Hitter Deep Cleansing Shampoo for a serious detox that gives way to shiny and healthy hair.
RRP £10.95
The beard isn’t going anywhere, so stock up on stubbly products. The Jason Shankey Beard Oil reduces itchiness, tangling and dryness.
RRP £4.99
salon-services.com
paul-mitchell.co.uk
T H E T O OL BOX American brand Andis has been making clippers since 1922 and remains a favourite – the Brios Cordless Trimmer is a precise and versatile addition to your kit.
RRP £64.99
Available throughout Movember, the limited edition Kent Brushes Mo Comb will keep whiskers looking neat and tidy.
RRP £4.50
kentbrushes.com
Get rid of the guesswork – the new Li+ Pro² from Wahl comes with a smart display to inform you when to oil, clean or charge and is available in a mini size, too.
RRP FROM £131.99 wahl.com
andis.com
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23/09/2015 15:41
®
RAISING EXCELLENCE
Offering a first class professional education program, with a variety of courses to select from. Our Education Team have been specially trained in Italy to offer you innovation and excellence in the world of hair extensions, providing education beyond expectations. • Hairaisers Professional Dual System Our advanced bonding techniques gives you the freedom to transform client’s hair and create a natural long-lasting result every time. • Mini Micro Ring Technique Gain the knowledge of a simple long lasting application method. Free from heat, glue and sewing. • A-List Weave The A list weave has been brought to you as an express hair extension application method - minimising fitting time to 1 hour with extensions that can be worn for up to 10 weeks with no in-salon maintenance. • Braid Base/Braid Connect Technique Producing fabulous results which blends in perfectly with any hair type and free from glue and heat.
For further information on Hairaisers Training, or if you would like to know more about our Hairaisers products please email info@hairaisers.com 0208 965 2500 www.hairaisersshop.com facebook.com/hairaisers.london @hairaisers
#MaleGrooming
ONE FOR ALL
YOU CAN BET that Osmo’s male styling range has something to win over even the most adamantly anti-product client. With sleek, masculine packaging, innovative blends and subtle scents, there’s a tub out there to suit every grooming need. The latest additions to the range are the Fibre Sculpt and the Pomade Hold, which cover both sides of the grooming coin. Fibre Sculpt offers an impressive matte hold and lived-in texture, for clients who favour a laid back approach, while Pomade Hold makes quiffs and partings sleek to help create retro looks with modern shine. Stock up and watch your clients be converted.
RRP FROM £8.45
osmo.uk.com
S I LV E R L I N I N G
Redken for Men Silver Charge is perfect for silver foxes as it neutralises brassy tones, while protecting against UV damage.
Men can be reluctant to turn to colour, but SP Men Gradual Tone covers greys while maintaining a natural look, so nobody need know they’ve hit the dye.
Be You Silver Gel from Framesi deposits violet pigment to enhance and brighten white or grey hair, but washes out easily with shampoo.
redken.com
wella.com
astonandfincher.co.uk
RRP £9.99
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IN-SALON SERVICE
RRP £9.95
CREATIVE HEAD
22/09/2015 09:43
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
Because we’re happy JOICO brings the ‘Joi’ back into haircare with its new campaign that celebrates healthy, beautiful hair GOOD, HEALTHY HAIR equals happy clients, right? Now JOICO is taking this one step further and putting this at the heart of its latest campaign – The Joi of Healthy Hair. Healthy hair is happy hair, radiating vitality, colour and shine. But over the years, hair can get stripped of this joy as hair becomes weakened due to environmental damage, colouring, styling and more, losing its health, vigour and shine. As JOICO celebrates its 40th anniversary this year, the brand is using its considerable experience in developing world-class hair products to
spread the Joi of Healthy Hair. JOICO is launching a new look and feel along with groundbreaking products and treatments, all focused on restoring hair to its happiest state – healthy, strong and gorgeously glossy. “There’s nothing in the world like the beauty of healthy hair,” says Eric Kater, vice president of JOICO Europe. “The Joi of Healthy Hair movement is dedicated to spreading the joy that both professionals and consumers experience when their hair is happy, healthy, radiant and beautiful.”
FEEL THE JOY Put a little ‘Joi’ into your clients’ lives with the K-Pak range from JOICO. Containing a high concentration of Quadramine Complex and Bio-Advanced Peptide Complex, the K-Pak range radically transforms the quality, look and feel of distressed hair. And that’s not all – the range also features the Hair Protection System. Much like when skin develops blotchy, dry patches and needs repair product, this system restores hair’s stress management abilities, bringing hydration and balancing porosity levels.
Celebrate #JOICO40Years and put the ‘Joi’ back into your clients’ hair with JOICO. For more information, call 0845 071 2326 or visit joicoeurope.com CREATIVE HEAD
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Hair at 58
Competition need to know
Baroque
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CREATIVE HEAD
22/09/2015 10:48
CR EATIV E HE AD PR OM OT ION
Amanda Marsden Baroque
COMPETITION
Win a salon makeover! AVEDA IS ON A MISSION. In partnership with Creative HEAD, the brand is looking to partner with salon professionals who share its vision for the future, are passionate about their salon and want to grow and develop a profitable, sustainable business. Maybe you’ve been meaning to implement changes to your business for a while now? Well, Aveda is here to help. As a holistic haircare brand, Aveda can give your salon the opportunity to offer guests a truly unforgettable experience that is more than just a haircut, it’s a remarkable selling point few others can offer. You will have a dedicated Salon Development Partner to create a unique business support programme that will help you to accelerate growth, alongside complimentary educational courses at the Aveda Academy; it’s like having a management consultant with industry expertise, but for free!
But enough about business, what can Aveda offer your creative staff? Colourists can colour outside the lines and break boundaries with Aveda’s up to 99 per cent naturally derived* full spectrum range, which allows you to create any and every possible hue, giving you and your clients endless choices. Aveda also empowers colourists with tailored education, support and guidance. And let’s not forget the feel-good factor of partnering with Aveda. Aveda cares for the world, from the products it makes to the ways in which it gives back to society, partnering with non-profit organisations whose work supports their commitment to social and environmental improvement. So go online and enter for your chance to win a partnership with a brand dedicated to building a visionary future for your salon.
*From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water
Edward James
Aveda, in conjunction with Creative HEAD, is giving one lucky salon owner the chance to win an exclusive salon makeover and become part of the Aveda family
ENTER NOW! The closing date for the competition is 31 October 2015, apply now at creativeheadmag.com/aveda-makeover To find out how your business can grow with Aveda, call 0870 192 5650 or visit aveda.co.uk/grow CREATIVE HEAD
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Aveda Creative Head Ad - Left Hand Side Page Trim size: 220mmx285mm (width x height)
UNLEASH YOUR ARTISTRY with infinite colour aveda full spectrum hair color ™
Up to 99% naturally derived* customised colour. Call Aveda at 0870 192 5650. *From plants, non-petroleum minerals or water. Learn more at aveda.co.uk
Aveda Creative Head Ad - Right Hand Side Page Trim size: 220mmx285mm (width x height)
a
ŠAveda Corp.
GET SMOOTH
S IN AL SI O D N ER
KMS California has launched the Play It Smooth campaign, featuring five sleek, inspirational styles for a variety of personalities. From Smooth Waves to Classic Straight, these versatile looks are customisable, encouraging stylists to demonstrate how their customers can recreate them. Turn to page 130 to find out how to get the campaign looks.
In the know Bora Aksu
Keep up-to-date on all the latest happenings from Goldwell and KMS California
DON’T MISS IT!
discover Now you can es on what really go ndon Lo backstage at KMS ith w Fashion Week, com e. ub ut California at yo uk ia /kmscaliforn 126
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CREATIVE HEAD
22/09/2015 10:31
S IN AL SI O D N ER
MARK LEESON IS GOLDWELL’S FIRST GLOBAL CREATIVE AMBASSADOR MARK LEESON HAS BEEN appointed global creative ambassador for Goldwell and brand ambassador for Kerasilk. The brand celebrated the announcement at an afternoon tea at the W Hotel in Leicester Square. The highlight of the event saw Nick Wood, UK president of Goldwell parent company Kao Salon Division, and John Moroney, global vice-president and creative director for Kao Salon Division, host a Q&A session with Mark. Mark’s role at Goldwell will see him involved in a series of shows worldwide, educating and demonstrating amazing hairdressing. “When I have a show, I look at the country that I am going to and see what they are doing hair-wise. Then I turn it upside down and give them something that they are not used to seeing,” says Mark. “I like to break the mould and deliver fresh and exciting shows so that guests leave with genuinely new ideas.”
Global Zoom ’14 winners
CATCH ALL THE ACTION
YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE at Global Zoom ’15 in person to enjoy it all. In fact, you can now get a front row seat with Goldwell’s on-demand service. Taking place on 4 and 5 October, you can cheer on the Color Zoom UK winners as they battle it out on a global stage, from the comfort of your own home with live online streaming. The two-day event will also feature the world premiere of the Color Zoom ’16 collection, as well as bucket-loads of inspiration. The show begins Sunday 4th 8.30pm PDT (4.30am Monday BST) and on Monday from 11am PDT (7pm BST). For all this and to see who will be crowned Color Zoom ’15 Global Winners, register at goldwelllive.com/registration.
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Deep Violet Service
Fiery Red Service
Like what you see?
So will your clients when they discover how the new Red Services from Goldwell can transform their look this season – discover how you can get the shades in your salon now, call 01323 432100 or visit goldwell.com 128
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22/09/2015 10:32
S IN AL SI O D N ER
Shimmering Copper Service Glowing Mahogany Service
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SMOOTH WAVES
Beautifully suited for longer styles, Smooth Waves is perfect for the transition from summer festival to relaxed evening style. Start by reducing hair’s natural frizz with TAMEFRIZZ shampoo and conditioner. Apply TAMEFRIZZ taming creme to control hard-totame frizz with light hold. Finish by applying TAMEFRIZZ de-frizz oil for up to three days of humidity protection.
START
+
STYLE
+
FINISH
Real smooth
There’s smooth and then there’s the new Play It Smooth campaign by KMS California. Find out how to achieve these looks so that the next time your client asks for a smooth style, you’ll nail it
RETRO SLICK
This smart slick style is easy to create and looks divinely dapper. Start with MOISTREPAIR shampoo and conditioner to restore the moisture in the hair and reduce breakage. Style with HAIRSTAY styling gel on towel-dried hair. Then create a low side-parting and comb to one side. Once dry, apply a small amount of HAIRSTAY styling gel and comb over the hair.
START
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+
STYLE
+
FINISH
CREATIVE HEAD
22/09/2015 10:34
S IN AL SI O D N ER
SLEEK SHINE
This super-sleek style needs to have a good foundation. Start with SILKSHEEN shampoo and conditioner, then apply TAMEFRIZZ smoothing lotion for instant frizz reduction. Blow-dry the hair using a paddle brush and use hot tools for a smoother body where necessary. Finally, lightly spray HAIRSTAY anti-humidity seal to block humidity for 24 hours.
START
+
STYLE
+
FINISH
NATURAL SHINE
Like skin, hair looks better when it glows. Use COLORVITALITY shampoo and conditioner to protect colour-treated hair and restore radiance. Follow this by styling with MOISTREPAIR revival creme into towel-dried hair to improve manageability, before blow-drying hair with a paddle brush. Finish with FREESHAPE 2-in-1 styling + finishing for light hold and shine.
START
+
STYLE
+
FINISH
CLASSIC STRAIGHT
Nothing says luxurious sophistication more than neat, groomed hair. Use COLORVITALITY blonde shampoo and treatment to enhance blonde tones and spray FREESHAPE hot flex spray into towel-dried hair for long-lasting heat-activated shaping. Blow-dry the hair using a vented brush and flat iron hair smooth. Finally, spray HAIRSTAY antihumidity seal to protect from humidity for a shiny, weightless finish.
START
CREATIVE HEAD
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+
STYLE
+
FINISH
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22/09/2015 10:41
Yasmin Swann Lorna Andrews
FEEL THE LOVE
KMS California had a love-in at Lovebox festival, teaming up with influential bloggers for the ultimate #festivalobsessions weekend
e KMS session at th early styling an rnia ith ifo w al n C ga S be sing the KM The weekend ting is in London. U ns y m co – de ca am A enu, the te California m g in yl st n N io at FASHIO of educ FESTIVAL+ Burnett; head m Sa or ad ss of er, co-owner of KMS amba Darren Webst Irene Meikl; d KMS an ; teman Webster Whi er – lm Pa e ir Educator Cla ’ ts es gu styled hair.
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CREATIVE HEAD
22/09/2015 10:40
S IN AL SI O D N ER Emma Woodley
Laila Swann
The special gu ests were blog gers Lorna A (LornaLuxe), ndrews Kate Johnso n (Gh0stpart Laila Swann ie s), (Laila Loves ) Yasmin Sw (yasminswan an n n) and Emm a Woodley (Milkteef), w ho provided the #festivalobse ssions
ox was Loveb e r e h w ggers ark, the blo toria P d ic n V a ’s m on tea f the t Lond some o lifornia e a e C s Once a S o t ing tage he KM includ main s held, t ne-up, to the li d e e h d t a he are acts on essie W hottest Mac, J p Annie oo and Sn Dogg.
To find out about becoming a KMS California stockist, call 01323 432100. Join the conversation with KMS California on Twitter, Instagram and YouTube @kmscaliforniauk #PlayItSmooth CREATIVE HEAD
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“ENA IS MODERN GREEK FOR ‘ONE’. WE DON’T MEAN ‘WE’RE NUMBER ONE’. WE MEAN IT AS A CULTURE – ONE TEAM, ONE VISION, ONE GOAL, ONE PASSION. THE WORD ‘ALLILON’ IS ANCIENT GREEK FOR THE WORDS ‘ONE TO ANOTHER’, THE IDEA OF SHARING”
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22/09/2015 11:32
INSPIRED
ANCIENT AND MODERN USING THE GREEK LANGUAGE AS AN INSPIRATION FOR A HAIRDRESSING BRAND? JUST ONE ILLUSTRATION OF HOW JOHNNY OTHONA, CO-FOUNDER OF ENA SALON AND ALLILON EDUCATION, LIKES TO DO THINGS DIFFERENTLY… JOHNNY OTHONA IS AT HOME with his family on a day off when we talk, but this is a rare treat for him. He’s between trips. As part of the Allilon Education team, in a four-month period, they’ll be heading out to the Philippines, San Francisco, Canada, South Africa, Vietnam, São Paulo, Italy, Greece, Sweden, Norway and Lithuania. It’s a work ethic that was instilled in young Master Othona living in ’80s North London by his parents. He admits that he “wasn’t as academic as I could have been” in school, and that as a kid he always had a Saturday job: one week a butcher’s assistant, the next an assistant to a carpenter. A grocery store after that, then a fish and chip shop, a builder’s assistant… he would go to school and then go to work. “I’m a very visual person so I loved watching adult conversations and seeing them do things with their hands that I could maybe try and practise,” he says. As a kid, he thought about being an architect (“and I also wanted to be a cartoonist, so I knew that it had to be something to do with drawing”) but mathematics were involved so “that went out the window”. On one of his vocational rotations, he helped out at a small barbershop in Archway called The Junction Barbers (it’s still there, “run by a really nice guy called Peter”). “I loved the atmosphere, the banter, the energy and the idea of guys
CREATIVE HEAD
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having a joke,” recalls Johnny. “So I worked there for about a month and said ‘that’s it, I want to be a barber’.” Not so fast young Johnny; in stepped Mrs Othona, who as a young woman had harboured her own ambitions of being a hairdresser, but her strict Greek father wouldn’t let her. (“In those days, in the Greek community, hairdressers were more... free-spirited, shall we say,” grins Johnny.) Her response to Johnny’s barbershop dream was simple: no, you’re going to be a ladies hairdresser. “She also told me I had to do colour, because there’s good money in colour,” he adds. But where to start? Again, leave it to Mrs Othona, who got a little creative on the phone to Selfridges… “She told them that I was devastated that the Glenby salon had never responded to me and that I was just a little kid, so passionate about hairdressing. It was a complete lie, but then they gave me an interview and I got the job there and then!” He was at Selfridges for about six months and “can honestly say I didn’t learn one thing. It was shocking, the education system”. It was the early ’90s and there was no funding in place for formal training, just the unpaid dedication of one of his colleagues, Anna. “All I did was shampooing, folding towels and one diffuser dry, in six months. It was a question of getting people in, behind the chairs and getting them blow-
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drying then that’s it, rock and roll, they’re on the floor,” he says. “But I think what’s amazing about these things is how they mould you. I think I know what’s bad and what’s good now. So we’re able to grow on the basis of our negative experiences.” Indeed, you can see where the germ of Allilon Education was born. A 14 year stint followed at Vidal Sassoon (“an amazing experience and I met some really amazing people”), where he learned the rights and wrongs of hairdressing. “I learned how to lead people, how to motivate people, how to mechanically do the work,” he says. He cites an incredible roll call of names who inspired him there: Sarah Astley (“an amazing barber”), Mark Hayes (“without a doubt one of the most mechanical technicians I could copy from”), Tim Hartley (“he moves hair with his hands in ways I don’t think anyone else can”), Stacey Broughton (“I was his assistant for a year and I remember him saying: ‘Just whack it off, it’s only hair’. That really stuck with me”), Debbie G (“an amazing person, so understanding and passionate”) and Neil Atkinson (“really kind and very flexible”). During his initial staff training aged 16, he singled out another young starter, a “really arrogant” kid that he just didn’t like and actively avoided for about five months. “One day he seemed down, so I asked what was the matter, was he okay? He had issues with a girl, so I gave him some advice – I told him to dump her... and he did!” That was the first real interaction with Pedro Inchenko – the person who would become his best
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friend and business partner in Ena and Allilon Education some 13 years later. “We ended up having mutual desires. We did at some points say ‘I would love to have a salon’, but if Vidal Sassoon hadn’t changed direction, we wouldn’t have changed direction,” he says. ‘Our choice was to change, to create an environment where people could grow.” There are now two brands: Ena is for the consumer, the Georgian London townhouse salon that’s full of childhood photos of the staff, cacti and plants in every available nook, hand-painted designs on the ceiling to catch the eye during a shampoo, and a damn fine cup of coffee, often with a rather yummy homemade sweet treat. Allilon is the industry brand, the education arm that’s either teaching in the academy on the top floor of the salon, or on a stage somewhere around the world. Johnny describes their vision of Ena and Allilon as “two different sides of the hairdressing coin”. He added: “Ena is modern Greek for the word ‘one’. When we say ‘one’, we don’t mean ‘we’re number one’. We mean it as a culture – one team, one vision, one goal, one passion.” The logo is based on the Fibonacci sequence, which symbolises growth and nature. The colour scheme and the salon itself is soft greys and organic woods, with a signature lime green. “The word ‘allilon’ is ancient Greek for the words ‘one to another’, the idea of sharing. So we have education first, before you go into Ena. It’s a support system to prove education works.” Did that experience at Selfridges long ago
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influence the shape of Allilon? “Definitely. Many salon groups use education to support the salons, and to feed the salons with staff. Whereas Allilon is a different animal. It’s trying to model itself as a support mechanism. People anywhere in the world who want to receive education don’t have to work for us to receive it. Sassoon, Toni&Guy, Pivot Point, they are institutions… and I see Allilon becoming the next institution. That’s our goal.” Allilon has evolved to become a prolifically creative beast, with constant photographic work and stage shows. “Our team is our biggest inspiration as the members constantly impress me and motivate me to aim to be stronger. They challenge my thoughts, ambitions and give me a reason to keep developing,” he says. “When people come to us for education, they leave feeling they’re part of the team. I believe that’s the key to education. If people leave feeling like you care about their journey and not just getting paid to do a job then there’s no way you won’t be successful.” It’s also inspired them to create an innovative event, The Crafts, which was staged with the Davines Worldwide Hair Tour in 2014 and with the Davines Hair on Stage event in September this year. It’s a labour of love for Johnny in particular. “What we do isn’t just hairdressing, it’s a craft. Hair is our material. When I Googled craftsmanship, the results showed sculpture, carpentry, ice sculpture, but not one hair image and that frustrated me. So again you either complain about it or get on and do something about it.” So get on with it they did, ploughing the
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firm’s own cash into a creative environment where visiting stylists could see hairdressing next to something such as wood carving, with lots of social media attention from its base at Central Saint Martins. It was an “amazing experience” he says. Its relationship with Italian eco-conscious hair care brand Davines has been instrumental since Ena’s launch. “I don’t like the idea of not standing for anything,” he says with conviction. “If you align yourself with a brand you think represents you and they think you represent them, and there’s a mutual organic growth, then you win.” People and community are recurring themes in our discussion, and he admits that he and Pedro have a “very unusual way of interviewing people”. “Firstly we do quite a formal one, in the salon. We look at their CVs, the presentation of them. If we think they’re good then we invite them back. We’ll go to a coffee shop and one of us will swear and bitch about something. If the person joins in with the negative banter, that’s not the person for us. If they’re offended that we’re talking like that, then that’s the kind of person you want to hire.” There’s also one very important question that’ll get thrown in for good measure: “How do you feel about cleaning a toilet?”. “You can instantly see their response – you don’t have to hear what they say,” he smiles. “If you can see genuinely that for them it wouldn’t even be a debate then that’s the person to hire because me and Ped will clean toilets, vacuum the stairs, clean the front of the shop… Ena means one. If we can do it, you can do it.”
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FOR
LIFE CELEBRATING THE LAUNCH OF THE RUSH FOR LIFE CAMPAIGN, THIS VISUALLY DYNAMIC TAKE ON THE FUTURE IS BOTH CHALLENGING AND INSPIRATIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOHN RAWSON CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Rush Workshop Team STYLING Bernard Connolly MAKE-UP Tamara Tott. PRODUCTS Racoon International
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BLOW UP WITH A NOD TO ICONIC ’60S PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID BAILEY, MARK WOOLLEY AND THE ELECTRIC ART TEAM GET SHADY WITH MONOCHROMIC
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES
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HAIR Mark Woolley and the Electric Art Team STYLING Clare Frith MAKE-UP Maddie Austin. Shot in the Electric Studio
LAST WORD
HOW TO PULL A MAN
ANDREW CANNON OF BARBER BRAND RUFFIANS ILLUSTRATES HOW HE ATTRACTS – AND KEEPS – MALE CLIENTS OF ALL AGES GROOMING IS BOOMING, but it’s important to appeal to every age demographic in order to fill chairs. So, how do you entice all age groups in without alienating anyone? Connect yourself to social media: younger guys are constantly taking in words from Twitter, images from Instagram and both from online publications. We produce up-to-date, quality imagery and content to keep our audience stimulated. Conveying our brand’s personality creates the best engagement and response. Our younger clients want to feel like they have something in common with us, so we interact with them in a friendly way. However, it takes a lot more to impress the older demographic, who may be less willing to travel for their haircuts. Word of mouth and being a local business is key to keeping the chairs full. We work really hard on being part of our community, to make Ruffians a well-known neighbourhood personality. We update our window displays regularly. The shop frontage catches the eye of passers-by, and those who work in the area – some of whom have ended up being our most valuable clients. By changing every couple of weeks, it brings in extra clientele who get to know our brand’s personality and what we like to celebrate. Ultimately though, it’s about customer experience. Once you’ve got them to walk through your doors you need to tailor the service and experience to them and their individual needs. We want to make our clients feel at home and relaxed. Craft beers are always popular, while keeping a whisky bar stocked can be a perfect treat for a gent; for caffeine-heads we offer delicious Scottish roasted drip-cup coffee – and we make sure to put a lid on all the drinks so there is no chance of little hairs interrupting your tipple. We encourage a trusting and friendly relationship between the barber and client. If this is successful, this gives more scope to nurture the client’s needs. We want him to walk out feeling confident, happy and remembering his positive experience for weeks to come; after all, his recommendation could mean an endless list of new customers. Andrew Cannon is managing director of Ruffians, which has barbershops in Covent Garden and Edinburgh
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