Creative HEAD October 2016

£4.50 OCTOBER 2016

In print•online•everywhere!

OCTOBER 2016 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM

a s i d e e n u o y All

SPARK Rekindle your client’s love of colour

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20/09/2016 16:25

LET’S

STROBE!

Don’t let the make-up industry have all the fun – it’s time to bring this bespoke highlighting technique into the salon.

L’Oréal Professionnel reveals the must-have A/W16 trend – strobing

TOP TIP!

PROTECT YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR WHILE COLOURING WITH SMARTBOND FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

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CHAMPAGNE SHIMMER

The strobing technique looks to emphasise the client’s best features. It’s perfect for any client who has fine hair or craves the kind of volume nature hasn’t blessed them with. This is where you can get really clever – with strategically lightened pieces around the mid-band, this technique highlights the client’s cheekbones and adds the look of depth and volume to the hair.

Paired with an iridescent, champagne blonde, this is the look colour clients will be clamouring for this season.

How to

Apply INOA Blonde Resist 9.12 globally. For an anti-brassy blonde for up to 8.5 weeks**

Freehand strobing pieces with Blond Studio Freehand powder. Tone with Dia Light 10.21

21/09/2016 15:13

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

96 PER CENT OF WOMEN THAT TRIED INOA ARE SATISFIED*

NEW INOA BROWN RESIST

Nine rich durable shades – for a long-lasting brunette that’s resistant for up to 8.5 weeks**

MAHOGANY LIGHTS

Apply new INOA Brown Resist 5.25 throughout the hair.

*According to hairdressers in France, Germany, Italy, UK, 2013 INOA Call Back. **Instrumental test.

This gorgeous look has been updated with Dia Hi-Visibility from L’Oréal Professionnel, giving hair a pop of colour on the lengths and ends.

This fiery on-trend hue complements the model’s skin tone without changing her look completely. It’s a great way to customise colour for a brunette who wants something a little different this autumn/winter.

How to

Freehand strobing pieces with new DIA Richesse Hi-Visibility .64.

Get strobing! To find out more about the L’Oréal Professionnel It Looks, contact your account manager or call 0845 600 0122

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19/09/2016 16:51

METAL

Smartbond transformation by VAE Hair, Norfolk

FORGED IN Don’t let the A/W16 season get dark and dreary – shine a light on sparky hues and embrace the hottest trend this season: metallics

Metallics have been a key colour trend in numerous fashion shows and the rise of metallic hues is a true fusion of fashion and colour.

The UK’s top colour geniuses give us their hot takes on the Metallic Edit from L’Oréal Professionnel, all made possible using Smartbond – have you discovered the magic of metallics?

ROSE GOLD Rose gold is one of this year’s most fashion-forward shades. It’s a subtle yet sophisticated fusion of copper and gold. It’s everything you ever wished for to update your blonde clients in a flash!

How to

For a subtle rose gold shade, try 40ml of Dia Light 9.02 with 2cm of Dia Light 5.66.

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19/09/2016 16:52

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Smartbond transformation by The Gallery, Royal Tunbridge Wells

MIDNIGHT INK

How to

For a deep midnight ink, we love the formula mix of equal parts Luo P01 and Luo 2.10.

If the client wants an intense colour result, apply the formula on a base 10.

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Smartbond transformation by Black Amber, Gorey

A night sky shade for when the clock strikes 12 – it almost appears blue-black. Dressing hair in a dark, opulent tone, this shade works best on natural brunettes and graphic hairstyles that come alive thanks to the multi-dimensional effect it creates.

19/09/2016 16:55

Smartbond transformation by Brooks+Brooks, London Smartbond transformation by Andrew Mulvenna, Belfast

SILVER STEEL Following in the footsteps of the grey hair trend that took social media by storm, this luminous icy shade goes one step further to bring on the bright.

How to

Showcase your professional difference with a silver waterfall effect.

Try 8.21 Majirel on the root, Dia Light 9.11 on the midband and Dia Light 9.01 on the lengths.

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19/09/2016 16:53

Smartbond transformation by The Square Salon & Spa, Sevenoaks

This perfectly polished purple shade will make your more adventurous client’s hair pop in every light.

Effortlessly cool and edgy, it can be applied all over the hair or seamlessly blended on the lengths and ends for a modern balayage look.

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Smartbond transformation by Alan Edwards, Glasgow

LUMINOUS LILAC

How to

Play with the vibrancy by adding mix tone. Try 10ml of Majirel violet mix tone to 40ml of Majirel shade 10.

Follow the story on social media at #SMARTBOND #LOREALPRO #SMARTSQUAD Get SMARTBOND and join the #SMARTSQUAD today. Speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager or call 0845 600 0122 for more information

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19/09/2016 16:53

UNLEASH YOUR CREATIVITY WITH SMARTBOND

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05/08/2016 10:10

Co-developed with worldwide top colourists.

INNOVATION

THE NEW MUST-HAVE ADDITIVE FOR YOUR COLOUR SERVICES. PROTECT YOUR HAIR WHILE COLOURING FOR SOFTER, STRONGER, SHINIER HAIR.

SMARTBOND ADAPTS TO YOU, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND! Smartbond does not impact on your level of lift or colour result.

No need to change your oxydant or development time.

FOLLOW THE STORY @LOREALPROUK #SMARTBOND #SMARTSQUAD #LOREALPRO

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05/08/2016 10:10

JOIN THE

#SMARTSQUAD TODAY WITH SMARTBOND “SMARTBOND IS EASY TO USE, WITH GREAT RESULTS. I COULDN’T WORK WITHOUT IT!” SUZANNE ALPHONSE, HEADMASTERS

“IT MAINTAINS THE INTEGRITY OF THE HAIR DURING THE COLOUR PROCESS, HAIR FEELS AND LOOKS GREAT” NATHAN WALKER, TREVOR SORBIE

“PROTECT YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR AND ACHIEVE BEAUTIFUL, LONG LASTING AND EVEN RESULTS” JO O’NEILL, TONI&GUY

“YOU CAN NOW PRELIGHTEN KNOWING THE HAIR WILL REMAIN STRONG. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND IT” FIE KARAYIANNIS, JO HANSFORD

“FOR ANY SALON THAT HASN’T TRIED IT YET, DO – THE RESULTS SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES”

“THE SHINE YOU CAN NOW GET ON A BLONDE IS UNBELIEVABLE”

TEJ SAMI, DANIEL GALVIN

LAURA ROBERSTON, SALLY MONTAGUE

Follow the story on social media at #SMARTBOND #LOREALPRO #SMARTSQUAD Get SMARTBOND and join the #SMARTSQUAD today. Speak to your L’Oréal Professionnel account manager or call 0845 600 0122 for more information

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19/09/2016 16:53

CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE

EDUCATION

EVENTS

INSPIRATION

CREATIVE HEAD STORE

COMPETITIONS

EXCLUSIVE

100 salons. One big night… and one helluva party! See all the pics from the Big Hair Do 2016 FIRST on creativeheadmag.com Alexander Wang, courtesy of Redken

WIN!

Catch up with all the hottest S/S17 looks fresh from the runway

Oh, what a night! Relive #MWIT16 by watching our brilliant video

Creative HEAD Magazine

003_CHM October.indd 1

@creativeheadmag

Want to win a barbershop makeover with Aveda? Enter now – good luck!

@creativeheadmag

21/09/2016 15:26

INTRODUCING

HEAVY HOLD POMADE

Heavy hold with high shine Perfect for creating sleek, smooth styles, sculpting and styling.

For more details contact Customer Services UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com

SPEC:

SUPPLY PDF AS SEPERATE PAGES

For more details contact Customer Services UK: 020 7391 7440 / customerservice.uk@revlon.com Ireland: 01886 9300 / customerservice.ire@revlon.com

BE FABULOUS draws on all our expertise, innovation and passion

to help hairdressers reveal the beauty in every woman. Over 5 years of research, high potency ingredients and a patented process combine to create the ultimate hair care range.

Ultimate FINISHING HAIRBRUSH

HAIR UP. HAIR DOWN. whichever way you wear your hair, The Ultimate will be perfect for your style

A clever addition to your styling routine. Use to dry

extensions, creating

style for updos and putting the finishing touch

to any style.

TO RETAIL TANGLE TEEZER IN YOUR SALON PLEASE CALL 020 72746128 OR EMAIL SALES@TANGLETEEZER.COM #TheUltimateHairStyles tangleteezer.com

GET

UPCLOSE

RENOWNED INTERNATIONALLY FOR THEIR CREATIVITY AND FASHION-FORWARD APPROACH, THE MULTI-AWARD WINNING TONI&GUY ARTISTIC TEAM REPRESENTS ARTISTS OF EVERY CONCEIVABLE TALENT. FROM EXCEPTIONAL CUTTING AND COLOURING SKILLS, TO MALE GROOMING EXPERTS, TO ‘IN DEMAND’ SESSION AND EDITORIAL SPECIALISTS DUE TO THE BRAND’S UNIQUE ACCESS AT LONDON FASHION WEEK AND INNOVATIVE AVANT GARDE HAIRDRESSERS –

WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT TONI GUY EDUCATION IS OUR EXCEPTIONAL TEAM.

Come and see the team in action at Salon International!

CHIE SATO

WINNER

g Awards British Hairdressin r, irdresser of the Yea r, Avant Garde Ha irdresser of the Yea Ha rde Ga nt AIPP Ava phy AIPP - Grand Tro

SILJE VINCNEANLT EFI DAVIES ATIO INTERNIS WINNER T AR TIC DIRECTOR

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jon wilsTdon FINALIS

g Awards British Hairdressin the Year 2016 ser of res ird Ha st We North

FINALIST

g Awards British Hairdressin 16 ser of the Year 20 res ird Ha rde Ga Avant

JO O'NEILl

SIOBHAN GOLDEN

awarded

of Hairdressing, British Fellowship s.

Fellow with Honor g the initiative, celebratin L’ORÉAL 20/20 ourists UK’s most elite col

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WINNER

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FINALIST

g Awards British Hairdressin fessional Schwarzkopf Pro 2016 n Colour Technicia

SCO FRANNCTE FO ANA

NOMINEE

g Awards British Hairdressin r, five times for the n of the Yea Colour Technicia Wella Trend Vision phy and L’ORÉAL Colour Tro

georegries math FINALIST

g Awards British Hairdressin fessional Schwarzkopf Pro 2016 n Colour Technicia

13/09/2016 11:00

COS SAKKAS

WINNER

INDIRA KER SCHAUWEC

g Awards British Hairdressin e winner of Year and three tim Newcomer of the irdresser of the Year Ha n do Lon 2015 2008, 2014 and

ardedards aw Hairdressing Aw

WINNER

sing Awards of British Hairdres Two time winner Hairdresser of the Year, Avant Garde Year, Hairdresser of the AIPP Avant Garde Trophy Winner and Gr P AIP

IST FHaINirdAL ressing Awards -

British r 2016 irdresser of the Yea Avant Garde Ha

British 16 HALL OF FAME 20

G PHILIPp HCAAUD EMY LONDON A

R AALGISE MAN T FIN

g Awards British Hairdressin of the Year 2016 ser res ird Ha n do Lon

KEVIN LUCHMUN

WINNER g Awards British Hairdressin the Year of Men’s Hairdresser

FINALIST

g Awards British Hairdressin of the Year 2016 Men’s Hairdresser

DANIELELIS DE ANGEDEMY

sophiett ONDON ACA L springe MANAGER

WINNER g Awards British Hairdressin Year Newcomer of the

TIC TEAM, OUD OF MY ARTIS PR RE O M BE ES OUR T AK O M THAT “I COULD N T AND PASSION , IT IS THEIR TALENAL OFFERING TOTALLY UNIQUEST , BE E TH M EDUCATION LEARN FRO TO T AN W U YO SO IF GUIDE.” LET US BE YOUR

ARBUCK SACHA MASCOLO-T

ATIVE L CRE GLOBAIR D ECTOR

FINALIST

g Awards British Hairdressin of the Year 2016 London Hairdresser

AM ART TLE FINA IST ng Awards British Hairdressi Year 2016 the of am Te Artistic

AND

PERSONAL FOR A FULL COURSE LISTING OR TO BOOK YOUR EDUCATIONAL JOURNEY WITH TONI&GUY VISIT WWW.TONIANDGUY.COM OR CONTACT T : 44 (0) 20 7836 0606 E : COURSES@TONIANDGUY.CO.UK F : /TONIANDGUYLONDONACADEMY T : @TONIANDGUY_ ACAD I : @TONIANDGUYLONDONACADEMY

608.3 TONI&GUY Creative Head October ART TEAM DPS.indd 2

13/09/2016 11:03

Editor’s letter

24 115

104

JOIN US!

THE MOST WANTED and It List Awards Grand Final may be over for another year but you can relive all the action in our exclusive supplement, free with this issue! One of the most brilliant reactions of the night was from our first ever Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist, Chris Foster, who was flabbergasted when his name was called out!

We speak to him about pushing male grooming to new heights (page 94), while also offering an introduction to a new client you must be ready for – the Altamale. Discover all you need to know, from page 84. Another tear-jerking reaction from our Grand Final was from Hair Icon Josh Wood, who accepted his award not for himself but “for all the hair colourists out there”. And with Robert Eaton scooping up the Colour Expert title, it’s clear to see how being a fashion-forward technician is paying dividends. Could we have timed our latest installment of Colour Forecast any better? I think not… Catch up on all the season’s trends and and be inspired by colourist Christel Lundqvist’s approach to the modern colour client with her first salon, Stil. It’s an embarrassment of riches for you this month – I hope you enjoy it all!

Amanda Nottage Editor

Winner, Trade/B2B Beauty/Grooming Journalist of the Year 2014 and 2015

amanda@alfol.co.uk Creative HEAD Magazine

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This time last year we declared right here that 2015 had been THE busiest year ever for Creative HEAD events. Surprise! 2016 has well and truly smashed that record – and we have a few more events to enjoy yet!

So, while we are still buzzing from the Most Wanted and It List Awards, we’re also busy getting set for our second ever Big Hair Do event, taking place in 100 salons all over the country. Search #bighairdo now to check out all the action. And for our final Coterie events of the year, we’re heading to Glasgow on 24 October where we’ll hear from session starson-the-rise, Anna Chapman and Richard Phillipart, and then back to London on 7 November – where we’ll be exploring and debating the notion that trends are so passé. Buy tickets at creativeheadmag.com/store

creativeheadmag.com

@creativeheadmag

creativeheadmagofficial

@creativeheadmag

21/09/2016 15:27

LEADING THE WAY IN STYLING INNOVATION

BaByliss PRO have been dedicated to innovation in the field of hair styling for over 50 years.

From session to salon and beyond, our tools are used by stylists to set new trends, designing the styles today that will be the must-have looks of tomorrow. As industry leaders, our passion for new and innovative technology is key to the success of our products, with our Auto Curl Technology™ in the BaByliss PRO Perfect Curl receiving the prestigious Queen’s Award for Enterprise in Innovation this year.

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19/09/2016 16:27

October

WHAT’S INSIDE 94

FASHION

Apothecary 87 looks to the ’20s for inspiration

96

ON THE COVER Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel

WINNING EDGES

Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist Chris Foster on how he got ahead

84

FREE INS IDE

Colour Forecast

GROOMING

How to get the Alta-male into your salon

INSIDDE FREEW ANTE

MOST E IT LIST AND TH SPECIAL AWARDS

EDITOR

STAFF WRITER

AMANDA NOTTAGE

ANNA SAMSON

DIGITAL PR & SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER ALISON ROWLEY

DEPUTY EDITOR

ADVERTISING

BETH DAVIE

LAURA TUCKER

SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER

ART DIRECTOR

CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE

NICK JABBAL

DAVID HAMMOND

PUBLISHER

JOANNA ANDERSEN

CATHERINE HANDCOCK

CHIEF SUB EDITOR ADAM WOOD

creativeheadmag.com

14_Contents October.indd 1

Creative HEAD Magazine

Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed

by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year.

WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk

@creativeheadmag

Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press.

Printing by Buxton Press

@creativeheadmag

20/09/2016 16:28

G CU ET ED T T H T G IN E E G E

R F O R PE P SU

S

S

IO

IG

H R L A TO N O M

H U

Q R R O T PE IP CL

E The new Super Motor Clipper from BaByliss PRO has a supercharged high-torque pivot motor for power and speed, Japanese steel blades for clean, precision cutting, and a sleek well balanced design for easy control; making it a match for all hair types and styles.

BAB00190_SMClipper CreativeHead_285x220.indd 1

20/06/2016 14:10

NEW

Basket

VID O STREAEM FROM S

£3

HOME HERITAGE Bundle options

ABOUT SASSOON COURSES Classic Cut

COLLECTIONS Classic Colour

SASSOON SALON EVENTS

SASSOON ACADEMY

MODELS WANTED

PRODUCTS

COLLECTIONS VIDEOS

TEAM

PRODUCTS NEWS

OFFERS

Location

Search

PARTNER SALON CONTACT

SOCIAL

Classic Men

STREAMING Sassoon Academy is world renowned in leading the way in professional education and our training videos are an essential choice for those who wish to develop their personal best.

Improve your hair cutting techniques with our hair cutting videos.

HOW IT WORKS

STREAMING 24/7

ON-LINE ON-DEMAND ON-THE-GO

ONLINE STREAMING HAIRCUTTING AND COLOURING TECHNIQUES.

THESE TRAINING VIDEOS ARE PERFECTLY SUITED FOR TODAY’S SALON NEEDS AND DELIVER ESSENTIAL EDUCATION FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF FUTURE GENERATIONS OF SUPERB HAIR PROFESSIONALS. VISIT: SASSOON-ACADEMY.COM

CLASSIC SERIES

COLLECTION SERIES

Each classic technique is demonstrated in its purest form

Salon Featuring contemporary cut and colour sequences in easy to follow stages.

CLASSIC CUT

CLASSIC COLOUR

CLASSIC MENS

Academy Demonstrating cut and colour or perm methods that unites modernist purity with creative experimentation

SEE MORE For all the action, check out our free Grand Final special!

CREATIVE HEAD

17-18_News/Joico October.indd 1

Sophia Webster Sam McKnight at Charlotte Olympia

Fashion Week images courtesy of Aveda, BaByliss PRO, Cloud Nine, ghd, KMS California, L’Oréal Professionnel, Revlon Professional, TIGI, Toni&Guy and Wella Professionals

JOSH WOOD is this year’s Most Wanted Hair Icon, and he earned a standing ovation as he dedicated his win to all of the industry’s colourists.

He said: “To be recognised as a colourist in this category is really great. It’s incredible to be nominated with everyone else and to win is amazing. I’m accepting this award for all colourists out there.”

Hosted at London’s Guildhall and compered by comedian Rob Beckett, Creative HEAD’s The It List and Most Wanted 2016 Awards welcomed more than 600 of the industry’s biggest names. Further winners included Eugene Souleiman, who scooped Session Stylist and Robert Eaton, who won Colour Expert. Errol Douglas MBE took home two awards, Hair Trend and Creative Talent, earning him a Most Wanted Legend title for 2017 in the process. For The It List, Amy Fish, from George Northwood, and Joshua Goldsworthy, from Goldsworthy’s, were crowned The It Girl and The It Guy for 2016 respectively.

Barbara Casasola

JOSH WOOD WINS HAIR ICON PRIZE

PPQ

Fyodor Golan

Liv Tyler at Belstaff

House of Holland

Bora Aksu

THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY

Erdem

The edit

Young, wild and free FOR S/S17 SEXY is back with passionate Romany travellers and sensual Spanish gypsies spotted at London Fashion Week. At PPQ, Darren Ambrose for Wella Professionals created face-framing textured waves inspired by both Linda Evangelista and Spanish fiestas. The House of Holland collection was also inspired by traditional styles worn by Romany gypsies, with Cos Sakkas for Toni&Guy creating loose, twisted ponytails. There was a free-spirited beauty to Aveda’s LFW debut, with Jon Reyman celebrating youthful femininity by dressing out defined curls at Barbara Casasola, while spiral curls made a comeback at Topshop Unique with Duffy for L’Oréal Professionnel. And it doesn’t come more sexy than ’40s screen sirens – the inspiration behind the waves created by Sam McKnight at Charlotte Olympia with Cloud Nine. At Liv Tyler’s collaboration with Belstaff we moved onto the ’60s, where rock ‘n’ roll met the English rose with John Vial for Revlon Professional doing messed up, but still oh-so beautiful blow-drys. The ’60s also featured at Sophia Webster, where a Birds of Paradise look was created by Maria Kovacs for TIGI. Braids will be back for S/S17 – James Pecis for KMS California at Bora Aksu was structured, while at Erdem, Anthony Turner for ghd and L’Oréal Professionnel created ‘shipwrecked’ braids – deconstructed pigtails secured around the nape.

At Fyodor Golan, Syd Hayes for BaByliss PRO took inspiration from Botticelli for his intricate braids, which featured ’90s metallic beads and silver leaf.

17

21/09/2016 15:29

#CHedit

STYLIST STARS THE KNOW-HOW IN BODY FIXERS THE INSIDE TRACK ON THE HOTTEST SALON IDEAS

Denis de Souza is the man to talk to when it comes to embracing colour and shine LOS ANGELES based celebrity colourist, Joico ambassador and ‘King of Colour’, Denis de Souza works with celebrities such as Mila Kunis, keeping their hair looking on trend and vibrant.

He wields the brush with expertise, creating celebrity colour trend Sombre and colour techniques Ronze and Caramelt. This season he’s predicting a focus on cooler tones and the launch of the Joico LumiShine Blue Ash series ties in perfectly with his A/W16 predictions! It’s a clever range of colours that cancel out unwanted red/orange tones and gives hair a beautifully cool tone without it looking overly ashy or dull – a dream for colourists as this can often be a worry when looking for the perfect hue for clients.

According to Denis, the benefit of LumiShine is that it adds a luxurious shine to the hair that really lasts and helps to make the colour really pop.

Oh, and the texture of the hair is improved using this colour, too – could clients ask for anything more?

THE OWNER of the 2016 Most Wanted Best New Salon has secured a slot on Channel 4 show Body Fixers. Daniel Granger of Daniel Granger Hairdressing in Northampton, has had to divide his time between a busy salon and appearing on the TV show.

“I knew it was going to be tough juggling a new salon and filming, as well as my wife having a baby in between, but I knew I needed to do it,” he said. The show had more than 2,000 people audition to be part of the team of six ‘fixers’ and Daniel joins fellow hair stylist Nathan Gooding.

See the action!

Check out the best braids, blow-drys and all of the buzz from our second Big Hair Do at creativeheadmag.com and in our next issue

Brainwerx to get radical with hair design SHAY DEMPSEY and Michael Polsinelli have created brainwerx, under their creative brand SM, in a bid to shift the focus of hair design away from a ‘pretty face’. Shay explained: “We want to be able to create without boundaries, using the purity of imagination and intuition. The thought of still life and using mannequins SEE MORE from brainwerx at [enables us to] focus on the design creativeheadmag/education itself and not be distracted.”

MY month

AHEAD

What October has in store for...

NEIL BARTON NEIL BARTON

I’m off to Stockholm with Goldwell for Global Zoom. I’m currently preparing a segment for the gala show and I will also be attending the live international competition. The prize is to join the Color Zoom Team and create a collection for 2018.

Last year’s winner will be presenting their collection, and I can’t wait for it.

GREG FORREST SLICKS BARBERS

I’ve got a really busy month travelling up and down the country with Osmo where we will be doing education workshops. Our days are going to be packed with energy and inspiration and we will be doing demonstrations on the latest styles, cutting, fading and styling techniques and trends.

PHILIP KINGSLEY: 1930 – 2016

INTERNATIONALLY RENOWNED trichologist Philip Kingsley has passed away at the age of 86.

He was regarded as one of the world’s leading authorities on hair and scalp health and was dubbed the ‘Hair Guru’ by the New York Times and a ‘Hair Wizard’ by Vogue. He treated countless celebrities during his career, including Sir Laurence Olivier, Cate Blanchett, Gwyneth Paltrow, Jane Fonda, Victoria Beckham, and many members of the royal family.

Philip Kingsley was perhaps best known for creating the world’s first pre-shampoo hair masque, Elasticizer, in 1976, which he formulated for one of his most famous clients, Audrey Hepburn. The product remains a bestseller, with one being sold every two minutes. He is survived by his wife Joan and four daughters.

18

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20/09/2016 14:46

MS Advert 220x285_Layout 1 15/08/2016 14:53 Page 1

www.milkshakehaircare.co.uk only available at professional hair salons.

Thanks to Salon Services, Kenra Professional is hitting the UK – one can of Volume Spray 25 is sold every two minutes in the US.

Goldwell has unveiled the revamped StyleSign range – choose from the line-ups for Ultra Volume, Just Smooth, Curly Twist, Creative Texture and Perfect Hold.

RRP FROM £12 020 3540 1200

SALON PRICE £9.99 0330 123 1907

goldwell.co.uk

salon-services.com

A firm consumer favourite, the Invisible Oil range from Bumble and bumble has two new additions – a Pre-Shampoo Masque and Dry Oil Finishing Spray.

RRP MASQUE £32, SPRAY £25 0808 281 0234 bumbleandbumble.co.uk

From Wet Brush’s Epic Professional range comes a Stylist Intro Kit that has a collection of terrific tools in a handy travel case.

SALON PRICE: £75.96 0161 477 2234

Ever since she emerged from the ocean in that bikini as one of the hottest Bond girls ever, Halle Berry has been celebrated as a true timeless beauty. Hair, make-up, wardrobe – the lot. Well, Berry is bringing that wow factor into salons with the launch of Be Fabulous, the new line-up of hair care wonders from Revlon Professional. It’s a range with specific textures for each type of hair: creamy consistencies for thicker hair and lighter gel formulas for fine hair. A little bit of Halle heaven in a bottle? Clients will need to form an orderly queue!

RRP FROM £11 020 7391 7440 revlonprofessional.com

alanhoward.co.uk

Something impressive here from Joico – in just one treatment, new K-Pak Color Therapy Luster Lock rescues even the most lifeless hair, leaving colourtreated locks nine-times stronger and super shiny.

RRP FROM £6.20 0845 071 2326 joicoeurope.com

Magic dust for must-have hair, the invisible formula of new Balmain Paris Hair Couture Styling Powder gives great root lift while keeping ends flexible.

RRP £26.95

01323 842288 balmainhair.com

Get texture to toe the line with the Curl Tamer Comb from Denman, with four colours to choose from.

There is a light that never goes out – it’s Light Shine, a killer radiance spray from Windle & Moodie!

020 3301 5449

RRP £15.60

RRP £5 EACH 0800 262509

RRP £22 07717 480649

davines.com

denmanbrush.com

It’s unisex, it doesn’t flake and it’s oh-so flexible – More Inside Forming Pomade from Davines is an extra moisturising styler that leaves a natural finish. Sold!

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windleandmoodie.com

CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2016 15:36

#CHedit

STOCK OPTIONS OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS

LAUNCH OF THE MONTH

INNOVATION IS THE name of the game at British firm PeRA|357, which this month is showing off with not one but two industry changing launches. This is big, people! First up is Re-Kolour, an absolute godsend for colourists whose clients love changing it up on the regular – this in-salon service removes up to 99 per cent of colour dye without damaging the hair. Just think how your really adventurous clients are going to react to that news! Get those mixing bowls ready… Then blow their minds even further with Triple Impact3 – an in-salon treatment that delivers three brilliant benefits. Applied before a shampoo, it creates va-va-voom volume, adds dazzling shine and cuts drying time way down.

Oh, and the more a client uses it, the better the benefits get, making it an excellent take home addition to boost your retail, too.

RRP RE-KOLOUR IN-SALON SERVICE; TRIPLE IMPACT3 £30 0330 088 5650 pera357.com

IT’S ALL ABOUT... SMOOTH

CREATIVE HEAD

20-21_Stock Options October.indd 2

Fight flyaways with Alterna Bamboo Smooth Anti-Frizz AM/PM System, which delivers 72 hours of frizz-free, humidity-proof hair. We love the Overnight Smoothing Treatment!

Need to deliver sexy and smooth hair? Structure Smoothshock is a scintillatingly scented styler that will give you tangle-free smooth hair without any flyaways.

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21/09/2016 15:35

#CHedit

R I S I N G S TA R

WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR CAREER HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? Being chosen for Wella Professionals Generation NOW and being part of the team was absolutely fantastic. It allows me to gain experience across many different areas of the industry and has also given me amazing opportunities. Another highlight was being part of the styling team for Britain and Ireland’s Next Top Model.

It’s something I will never forget – working on it was so exciting.

RUFUS GEARY AGE: 23 SALON: FRANCESCO GROUP, BOURNEMOUTH

WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? When I was younger I used to walk past hair salons and see just how happy clients were. To see them being transformed and the joy it brought them was amazing – and completely inspired me. I’ve enjoyed every moment of my career since I’ve started and look forward to seeing what the future brings!

WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS? I would love to have my own salon and hopefully become an award winner, too. I’d like to be in Bournemouth still – it’s close enough to get into London and my clients are incredible, such a mixed variety of people which makes every day so much fun.

WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? To work on London Collections: Men. Men’s hair and fashion as a whole has grown so much in the past few years – it’s fast forward, it’s an industry that’s so on trend.

Men’s hair styling is one of my favourite things to do in the salon, so I think that would be a big achievement for me!

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21/09/2016 15:37

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G our retail range wins awards. it’s coveted by beauty editors and celebrities - appearing in the beauty pages every month, and is a staple in make up artists’ kits. and now you can retail it in your salon.

JOIN US AS A STOCKIST AND SEE YOUR RETAIL PROFITS RISE beautyinhighdefinition.com

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Inside story SAMANTHA CUSICK LONDON

INSPIRED BY bloggers Zoella and Tanya Burr, it was vital for owner Samantha that everything was social media-friendly – ‘Instagrammable’ – and reminiscent of the dreamy images pinned to Pinterest accounts, so the interior and its accents had to be as beautiful as the hair being created within. The backdrop is that of Hollywood Regency, minimalist design contrasted with rich metallics, high-shine lacquer finishes and ornate trims to give this interior a vibrant luxury edge (and looks so chic in online!) – thanks to interiors specialists A-Cold. The salon has a photobooth where clients can post their pictures direct to their social media accounts, and the complimentary cocktail bar (we recommend the signature Mermaid Martini, derived from prosecco and glittery candy floss!) is another feature that helps the salon stand apart. The Tom Dixon copper and silver lights are divine, as is the living wall with plush greenery behind the backwash, with furniture from LSE alongside pieces sourced from Made.com, Biba, Oliver Bonas, H&M and Paul Smith. Picture perfect!

HOT BUYS

now open

BOX OF DELIGHTS

Say a bright hello with the Pandora reception desk, part of Takara Belmont’s Themis family that’s inspired by Greek mythology.

It’s softly lit with an LED light surround and has lots of builtin storage space. Choose from walnut natural, oak natural and oak dark brown.

Price: £1,170 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk

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SHANE BENNETT LISBURN

A chic new location for this Northern Irish favourite means a contemporary feel with a sense of space but still lashings of luxury.

CREATIVE HEAD

19/09/2016 13:33

THE BUSINESS EDIT FROM INSIDE

THE SALON

CAROLINE SANDERSON

EGO HAIR DESIGN

So many salon owners don’t think twice about creative training courses and investing thousands into how their salon looks, but that won’t pull clients in on a regular basis, they need to market. Marketing is not an expense: it’s an investment. I have studied for years online and in books but as I grew my business I increased my marketing budget. Last year I invested in two days of training with my non-industry mentors at Highclere Castle, at a cost of almost £6,000. I always track my return on investment and made this back in three months and went on to profit in many ways. I’m not saying go out and spend £6,000 on one course, but when you’re confident you will see a return on investment. But all you need to invest in the first instance is your time, as there are plenty of free, or almost free, resources out there.

HOW CAN CREATIVES GET GOOD AT BUSINESS?

LET’S FACE IT: hairdressers have a reputation of not always being the hottest business brains on the planet. “Many salon owners don’t dream of becoming a business owner, they just want to be their own boss,” admits Dominique Conseil, Aveda’s chief executive and president. “But with that comes leadership issues, systems issues, and many don’t have the expertise to deal with them, or they still work all day behind the chair. They’re then not in the best possible position to lead.”

It’s a sentiment echoed by Carey Faulkner at BOB Salons: “New owners have dreams and goals of what they want to get out of their salon but don’t realise that you have to be a specialist in HR, marketing, education, accountancy, social media, search engine optimisation and entrepreneurship – all rolled into one! The challenge most salon owners have is that they are far too busy on the shop floor doing hair and can’t give proper focus to all the elements to scale up their business.”

So how can a creative spirit, keen to go it alone, boost their business prowess? Many look to get advice externally. “The turning point in my business education came when I realised I could look outside the hair industry to learn business skills,” says Bravo’s Phil Jackson. “For retail education, I called in someone who used to train telesales teams. For online marketing, I flew to Silicon Valley for a three-day geek seminar! Limiting your options to what is on offer specifically for our industry is a mistake.”

Don’t underestimate what you can find with a quick look on Google. “A lot of digital marketing can be done by yourself for free, but you need time and some initial experience to get Adwords and so on working correctly,” says Carey.

Also a search on Amazon could yield some interesting results. “I relish the challenge of flexing and developing my business muscles and I do read a lot of books – but I do this by speaking to other people in business in all sorts of industries and find out what they are reading!” says Lorenzo Colangelo at The Gallery, who recommends the Jim Collins classic Good to Great. “It’s rare for me to read a business or self-development book and not end up implementing something into my business.”

Networking is also incredibly important.

Karine Jackson attended a Labour Party Business Organisation meeting on the advice of a client, and would recommend it to any salon owner: “I go along and listen to what is said.

It’s interesting just to be in that environment.”

But sometimes you need the help of someone with more business experience, a “fresh pair of eyes” to help you regularly. Elajé Hair & Beauty’s Julia Gaudio opted to try a business coach, Peter Lunn. “I needed a better financial balance, and this wasn’t an area that I’d been able to solve myself,” she admits. “I have a great accountant, but accountants don’t understand our day-to-day business. I knew I had to address some elements in order to grow and not just keep plodding along.”

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CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2016 15:41

#BusinessEdit

The Numbers Game THE STATS OF SALON LIFE – AND HOW YOU CAN IMPROVE YOUR FIGURES

This is the month many salon heads like to plan education for the year ahead. However, some are being stymied by a lack of timely brochures from manufacturer partners, and others now choose to assess needs throughout the year to keep training focused. “We’re closing the salon for a day’s training with a tools brand, but this will cost 12 stylists at £35 an hour each – in real terms, something like £1,300,” explains Paul Davies from Top to Toe in Wisbech. “These costs are substantial and I’m proud of that.

But I now wish I had more structure and had been measuring costs. It’s about doing a good job.”

10.7%

69% 3.5% 84% have a

structured education plan in place

use online resources

Manufacturer Online resources Wholesaler education

We review our education as we go along, which is hard – we used to plan the next year’s education and book by Christmas, but brands don’t release the information soon enough. We would do more education if the lead time was longer STEVE EVANS, THE HAIRDRESSERS, DROITWICH SPA

WAS THE AVERAGE PERCENTAGE OF RETAIL IN AUGUST TURNOVER

£48.35

WAS THE AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND

8.6%

average amount of budget focused on education

Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK

BOOK SMART

The top most popular types of courses:

OF AVERAGE TOTAL CLIENTS WERE NEW CLIENTS

HOW WAS BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2016 COMPARED WITH JULY 2016?

declining

40%

HOW WAS BUSINESS IN AUGUST 2016 COMPARED WITH AUGUST 2015?

declining

15% growing 30% steady steady 40%

15%

growing 70%

AT IKOSOFT WE are convinced that the desire for learning is born from the desire to create. In the ever-changing world of hairdressing, success depends on knowledge and expertise.

Education is vital for future stylists to fully realise their creative gifts. Today, a stylist must be a talented craftsman but also an excellent manager. Ikosoft Merlin blends cutting-edge software with a user-friendly interface to make the management aspect easy, allowing stylists to realise their creative potential without being burdened by paperwork.

We know how essential education is in the hairdressing sector, which is why we offer our software free of charge to hairdressing schools so students can hone their management skills at the same time as their core skillset.

Morgane Brosset is marketing director at software provider Ikosoft. Visit Ikosoft.com 28

28_Numbers Game Oct.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

19/09/2016 13:43

#BusinessEdit

LIFE LESSONS

ROBERT RIX THE COMPANY OF MASTER BARBERS

Be as good as you can be.

We all get days when we think we’re the best, and conversely, days when we think we’re downright rubbish. Deliver a product that is of a good professional standard, no matter how you feel.

Never forget that client has chosen you. When the client arrives with you for the first time, that arrival is not by chance. There are myriad ways that clients find their way to your door; so make absolutely sure that every way that might bring the client to you has a positive source.

Remember what it was like as a trainee. All those menial tasks you had to do, all the sweeping and tea making, before you became king of the hill.

Be a firm boss but don’t break their spirit.

Look after your feet. There are few trades where an operative stands for such prolonged periods. Wear comfortable shoes, get a pedicure now and again – it’ll put a spring in your step and smile on your face!

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RENT A CHAIR – TO DO OR NOT TO DO?

OWNERS NEED TO THINK BEYOND SHORT-TERM GAIN, SAYS KEN WEST

KEN WEST IS DIRECT0R OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5

IN THESE challenging times, many salons are the products they use, services they offer, the looking to save money and often consider rent- education they receive, the image they portray, a-chair as an option (see page 36). the clients they serve, when they go on holiday Initially it can appear to be beneficial to and who cuts their clients’ hair when they are the salon owner. Fewer people on the payroll, not there. which means less employers’ National These are just some of the things that you Insurance contributions, less holiday pay and really do have absolutely no control over if you fewer pensions to contribute to. Less time is have chair renters in your salon and you want spent on creating rosters and there’s no need to stay on the right side of the HMRC. to invest in education because that is the I am currently aware of more salons than responsibility or the chair renters. All of the ever being inspected by the HMRC. These above seem appealing if all you are focused on inspections are also far more in-depth than I is saving money in your salon. have ever seen and are often initially focused If life were that simple then why have on minimum wage, detailed hours worked, the biggest brands in our industry never travelling time, equipment costs, holiday and considered chair rental; surely they would bank holiday pay and entitlement. have the most to save?

HMRC is becoming more and more aware Maybe it’s because their goal is to build a of the issues surrounding self-employment brand and a business that has a long term in our industry value. I believe that success leaves clues and and are already that we can all learn from those, sometimes moving into even global, brands. The true focus of any this area. The salon owner who is trying to build a salon outcome will business with brand values with a long-term be interesting! value, is to build an amazing team.

I can’t see how you can create a true team with common goals and aims if they have PLEASE GIVE KEN FEEDBACK total freedom to choose the Email him directly on KenW@365Hair.com following: The hours they work, the prices they charge,

CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2016 15:43

#BusinessEdit VANESSA BOLAND OLAPLEX

QA

TAKE TO TWITTER AND QUIZ YOUR HAIR HEROES! WHAT HAS MADE OLAPLEX SO SUCCESSFUL? Simply the satisfaction from professional colourists and clients alike – it really works.

Founder Dean Christal considered how we can repair hair from the inside, not just cosmetically. Scientist Craig Hawker wrote the formula and it was tested in Dean’s garage! The rest is history...

A YEAR IN, WHAT HAS THE REACTION FROM SALONS AND CONSUMERS BEEN? The excitement generated by the results and personal experiences have been shared through social media and it’s meant growth has been organic. I love the excitement that Olaplex has brought to the salon, and there are wonderful benefits, both creative and financial, for stylists and salon owners.

As for the consumer, it’s a no-brainer: who wouldn’t prefer to have healthierlooking, stronger hair made possible by this science?

WHAT NEXT FOR OLAPLEX? We’ll soon be launching more hair science unlike anything that has been seen before – we believe professional services will be forever changed. So watch this space!

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PAUL PERCIVAL, PERCY & REED What would you say to your 20-year-old self?

Kim Rance @kimmyrance Work with as many inspirational people as you can and ask them as many questions as you can.

Most importantly, don’t ever let fear stop you.

How do you and business partner Adam Reed divide the workload – do you ever feel that you are doing the lion’s share?!

Ceri Cushen, Metropolis @CeriCushen To be honest we are both always working so that would stop either of us feeling that one is doing the lion’s share. We talk about all things hair and brand pretty much 24/7. If I had to say how things are divided, I do a little more of the numbers side and Adam does more of the industry side.

With such a busy agenda, how do you keep an eye on your ‘quality control’ in regard to the service and care offered by your team?

Joseph Ferraro @JFerraroHair I know everyone says it but it’s true, we have a great team. Everyone of our guys only wants to give their client the best possible experience. When it comes to the very high standard of hairdressing that of course is always supported with hands on training, but I think what really sets our team apart is the sheer breadth of work that our team does. As a brand the team gets to work on everything from fashion week, music videos, fashion campaigns, ITV shows, with key product companies such as BaByliss PRO, as well of course as working in very busy salons. I’m not sure there is the same level of diversity for a stylist to learn from in any other salon. But of course I’m hugely biased!

Next issue: Most Wanted Hair Icon, Josh Wood. Tweet us @creativeheadmag

TIME IS MONEY Face it, you’re not always the best person for some tasks… and some are not the best use of your time. For example, if you come off the floor to handle social media, and you can be earning £50 an hour on the floor, then it’s costing you £50 an hour to do your social media. “If you outsourced it for £10 an hour, you’re saving £40 an hour as well as a big headache,” suggests Ego Hair Design’s Caroline Sanderson. Even with paying a wage to someone to cover your column for a day to allow you to get to grips with marketing plans, you’re more profitable. “If you usually earn £500 a day on the floor, pay someone else to earn that £500 for you, and you could create marketing plans to fill your stylists’ columns and attract new clients,” she adds.

CREATIVE HEAD

19/09/2016 13:46

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#BusinessEdit

TRAINING WIN FOR INDUSTRY

Small salons will not be forced to contribute to the cost of training young apprentices, the government has proposed, in a move the NHF has described as a victory for the industry and its work behind the scenes.

The Department for Education in August outlined its proposed new funding model for apprenticeships. Feedback to the proposals was then sought from employers between August and September. While most employers will be required to “co-invest” 10 per cent of the cost of training, businesses employing fewer than 50 will be exempt.

Employers taking on 16 to 18 year olds will also receive £1,000 to support the extra costs of training this age group.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall described this as potentially “great news”.

“This is vindication of all the hard work the NHF has done to get a better deal for small businesses from government,” she said.

But the changes do still leave a question mark over what this will mean for those who stay in school until the age of 18 and only then decide to do an apprenticeship.

“It will be important for more work to be done with schools and parents to emphasise the value of taking up an apprenticeship at the age of 16 rather than waiting until 18, and then potentially being disadvantaged as a result,” Hilary added.

RETHINK GCSE RESITS THE NHF has called on the government to rethink its policy of forcing young people to resit their English and maths GCSEs, after August’s results showed the biggest ever year-on-year decline of pupils achieving grades A* to C. The decline has been blamed on pupils in England now being required to resit if they have failed to get at least a C grade. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said: “These are key skills for the salon, but for many youngsters less academically minded, forcing them to repeat exams in this way is clearly not the answer.”

SALONS ARE ‘COPING WELL’ WITH LIVING WAGE EFFECTS

SIX MONTHS ON from the arrival of the National Living Wage, salons have by and large coped well, NHF research has found. But there are worries about what might happen next. The £7.20-an-hour National Living Wage (NLW) for over-25s was introduced in April.

The NHF surveyed members to feed in to its latest evidence to the Low Pay Commission, the body that recommends to government what next year’s rates should be. This discovered that, for nearly half (49 per cent) of those salons polled, the NLW has had little or no effect whatsoever. This is because their staff aged over 25 are experienced, have built up their columns and, as such, are already earning more than £7.20 an hour.

As the NHF’s evidence concluded: “Most salons provide bonuses or commissions linked to performance targets so stylists in this age bracket (25 or over) are likely to be earning more than the NLW. There is a direct correlation between the earnings of the stylist and the takings for the salon, so there were positive comments about the NLW and the principle of paying a decent salary.”

For some salons where this was not the case, however, there had been an impact, with some reporting it had led to them having to reduce their profits, cut hours or even lay off staff. As one member put it: “We have had to shut one of our two shops and merge into one. In doing so we have made two receptionists redundant and have not replaced staff that have left of their own accord.”

There were also worries about what impact future rises in the wage could have on salons, given that the government has said its ambition is for a £9 an hour wage by 2020. NHF chief executive Hilary Hall emphasised: “Salons are telling us that, if minimum and living wage rates continue to rise sharply, they may be forced to freeze recruitment, reduce staff hours, put expansion plans on ice or even lay off staff.”

Online errors are costing business

TWO-THIRDS of hairdressers are potentially losing out on customers because basic online information, such as the salon’s phone number or email address, is wrong.

The study by digital marketing firm Yell also found that, for 51 per cent of clients, a salon’s website was the deciding factor as to whether to make an appointment or not.

More than half (54 per cent) also looked for positive online reviews.

“If a company’s information online is wrong, it’s arguably worse than not being online at all,” said Yell marketing director Mark Clisby. “Not only is the company effectively invisible to customers, it can also seem careless or even untrustworthy.”

To find out more information and how to join the NHF, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info 34

034_NHF Oct.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2016 15:44

MUSICAL

CHAIRS STRUGGLING SALON OWNERS OFTEN LOOK TO CHAIR RENTING AS A WAY OF SAVING MONEY. BUT DO THE PROS OUTWEIGH THE CONS? OUR FUTUREPROOF CAMPAIGN INVESTIGATES THE PRACTICES AND PITFALLS BEHIND RENT-A-CHAIR SCHEMES 36

36-38_FutureProofOct.indd 1

CREATIVE HEAD

20/09/2016 10:17

#FutureProof

SELF-EMPLOYMENT IS higher than at any point over the past 40 years and the largest amount of self-employed workers are in skilled trades such as hairdressing, according to the Office for National Statistics. Combine this with expected increases in the National Minimum Wage and the National Living Wage and it’s no wonder many salons are looking at saving money with chair rental.

Initially it seems to be an ideal solution. “You don’t have to pay National Insurance contributions, holiday pay, sick pay, maternity or paternity pay or pension contributions,” explains Hilary Hall, chief executive of the NHF. Also, as freelance hairdressers are self-employed, they are not protected by UK employment law, so salon owners are not bound by unfair dismissal procedures. But it does mean you have less control of your business.

“On the surface, chair renting looks like an attractive option, but it’s not a ‘no-brainer’, which is why the NHF advises salon owners to think long and hard about giving up control over key aspects of their business,” adds Hilary.

Those renting a chair from you have the freedom to choose when they work, their prices, the products they use, their training, their clients, when they go on holiday and who cuts their clients’ hair when they’re away.

There is also the issue of standards and team morale.

Karine Jackson, owner of Karine Jackson Hair & Beauty, has had chair renters in the past, but stopped because she wanted to focus on building her brand. Ultimately, Karine says it was when she saw standards slipping in the salon that she stopped chair renting.

She explains: “When chair renters come in, they are a law unto themselves so the standards may not be the same as that of the salon they’re working out of. I also found that it made the atmosphere tense; employed staff don’t like chair renters coming in and taking a higher percentage for the same job – you don’t want tension on the salon floor.”

This is a key point – a salon must focus on its team if it wants to grow. “To grow, you need to train your team and training costs money – why would you invest in someone that could potentially leave tomorrow?” asks Matthew Luke Professional’s Matthew Sockalingum, winner of the 2016 Most Wanted Award for Innovation. “The self-employed stylist is often reluctant to invest in training days as they are mainly driven by money. The industry is all about engaging with clients so if your team is not engaged with what’s going on then you can forget about providing a consistent service.”

However, if saving money is your sole focus for now, there are ways of making it work for both the salon owner and chair renter. “Thousands of hairdressers manage to make chair rental work for them successfully. You just need to be aware of the pitfalls and take legal advice before taking this route,” advises Alice Kirby, director of Lockhart Meyer Salon Marketing. “Always go to your solicitor or get in touch with a body like the NHF, which offers contracts specifically for

CREATIVE HEAD

36-38_FutureProofOct.indd 2

this. It will cost money, but not as much money, heartache and hassle as sorting the mess out if it all ends in tears.”

Sallyanne Dexter, from Dexter Hairdressing & Training in Nottinghamshire, has used chair renters in her salon for the past five years and has found it works very well. “As soon as our stylists became self-employed, they became more motivated,” she says. “They also became more aware of the salon brand image and conscious of the salon as a business.”

The first thing you must decide is how to charge for your chair. There are three main routes: charge a fixed rent to the freelancer; take a percentage of the chair’s takings; or a combination of the two. However if you charge a percentage you need to trust the freelancer, says Alice Kirby.

She adds: “All invoices need to go through your salon till so you can calculate the percentage due to you. It can be all too tempting to ‘slip’ payments past the till.”

Alice also suggests drawing up a service contract. This will cover items such as what happens to their clients when the freelancer is on holiday or sick leave, whether they can use your receptionist, who provides products and equipment and so on. You must also make sure your chair renter is deemed a freelancer and not an employee in the eyes of HMRC. “The law and the taxman don’t care about the label you give your rent-a-chair, they will look beyond that to the true nature of the relationship. Stipulating hours and a uniform are just two of the things that the HMRC says points to employment,” Alice explains.

How to reduce the risks of rent-a-chair

Go through a rigorous selection process. Verify references, do interviews and do a trade test Go through your staff handbook with the freelancer so that they get a feel for the standards and culture of the salon Have a service contract Have a probation period

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22/09/2016 09:47

#FutureProof

CHAIR RENTAL SHOULD YOU DO IT? , W B O T T OM S T E V E RO O W, R T S E W F O NO DIRE C T OR T ING H A S N E CH A IR R S E DUS T R Y… V IN IE G L E IN B IRDRE SS A H E H T PL A CE IN

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“Chair rental can and does work; it’s all about attitude. Not only do I put money in the till, but I bring my knowledge and experience to the salon.

About 80 per cent of salons in the US operate a chair rental system, so it’s clearly a business model that works.”

CRAIG PURVES

O W NE R E HICK E Y, S CH A RL O T T E, BEL IE V E T CH A RL O T HE Y T B IN IR A E C H A OF AS A PL H G IN PS T N TE T S TA R U CH A IR R E CIA L LY A P S E – Y R INDUS T

“I rent chairs and take a percentage rather than a rent. If you can’t make a team work with self-employed staff then there’s no point trying to force a team with employed staff to work. I have found self-employed staff work for you and your brand more passionately, because they know the ball is in their court.”

e business know if th ’t n id d I was a good salon as opened my ightaway. It I ra st en e h at w ag t w chair ou to pay a e me feel th “I rented a It also mad . could afford d I ed if an er d v sy an co u f b e very gs were to take of ing, we wer my outgoin was going ed. en of y e lo op p m r m te so -e af ing sure months d one self w an fe s A ee y. y lo way of mak sk less ri ree emp lly insured y salon was they are fu now have th I at f. th af e d st u opening m e h the salon and to incl employ som ked throug is in place oo t b ld afford to ac u ts tr n n co ie I co ef EMILY MILNER at any cl n when it’s e sure a bri k for a salo d NI, also th or an w x n ta I would mak ca n g r ow the owner r rentin to pay thei portant for . I feel chai im on ’s it so and liable d w ro an you g rental, n clients ut I feel as With chair remain salo t income, b igher rent. se h ’s a it not or o as d t ed y as they emplo starting ou air rental to salon owner e ch th d ss r “We don’t rent chairs as we oo se fo g y as a , it to re sibil However less respon and so on. y feel the brand ethos is lost and it n er at there is also d ,m ner an for holiday the salon ow it’s difficult to manage someone have to pay ween both et b ip l.” sh ta is vi relation who works for themselves.” yed person self-emplo

DEAN ROBERTSON

NEXT

OWLY STRANGLED BY RED TA MONTH: ARE YOU BEING SL GEST ADMIN WHAT'S CAUSING YOU THE BIG Email amanda@alfol.co.uk

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ORK? PE? DROWNING IN PAPERW

HEADACHES? WE WANT TO

KNOW.

Tweet us @creativeheadmag

CREATIVE HEAD

21/09/2016 15:46

CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

NEVER COMPROMISE AGAIN

DRYNESS AND DAMAGE USED TO BE AN ACCEPTED PART OF LIGHTENING AND COLOURING THE HAIR BUT NOT ANYMORE, THANKS TO ASP VITAPLEX BIOMIMETIC HAIR TREATMENT WE DON’T BELIEVE you should have to accept hair damage when creating fabulous colour for your clients – and neither does ASP. ASP Vitaplex Biomimetic Hair Treatment allows you to lighten and colour without compromising the hair’s quality.

This next generation damage protection system uses biomimetic technology to rebuild damaged hair the way nature intended, whilst protecting it from harm during the colouring and lightening process.

Damage already done? Not a problem as ASP Vitaplex can also be used as a standalone treatment to repair previously damaged hair. The RAV19 Complex reconstructs the damaged areas of the keratin structure by replicating and replacing, in exact sequence and quantity, the 19 amino acids that can be destroyed during chemical services – effectively restoring your client’s hair to its natural state.

ASP Vitaplex is also a great way to top up that colour bill. It is an ideal add-on service for colour clients as it intensifies colour and boosts lift without the need for a

stronger developer. It is compatible with all professional colour and lightening systems and is simply added to any mix, with no extra development time needed.

THERE ARE THREE STEPS TO THE ASP VITAPLEX SYSTEM: STEP 1: Bond Protector – simply add to any colour, bleach or lightening mix.

STEP 2: Bond Reconstructor – apply post-colouring or lightening to rebuild the hair structure. The fortifying formula with RAV19 Complex replaces lost amino acids, leaving the hair fibre strengthened and nourished, restoring health, suppleness and volume.

STEP 3: Bond Preserver – a take-home strengthening treatment for clients to maintain the significantly improved health and condition of their new hair.

With ASP Vitaplex you’ll never have to compromise your client’s hair colour again.

To find out more, call 01794 527111 or visit asphair.com CREATIVE HEAD

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FASHION FADES...

STYLE IS ETERNAL

STYLE ISN’T IN THE CLOTHES YOU WEAR BUT IN HOW YOU WEAR THEM. AND A GREAT CUT AND COLOUR IS NOTHING WITHOUT GREAT STYLING, WHICH IS WHY YOU NEED STYLESIGN BY GOLDWELL CREATIVE HEAD

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ANYTHING IS POSSIBLE 44

NEW DESIGN, IMPROVED PRODUCT INNOVATIONS AND UPGRADED TECHNOLOGY – STYLESIGN BY GOLDWELL MAKES ACHIEVING ANY STYLE A REALITY

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

STYLESIGN BY GOLDWELL is the outcome of three years of idea sharing, working and cocreating with thousands of stylists worldwide.

StyleSign’s five segments – Ultra Volume, Just Smooth, Curly Twist, Creative Texture and Perfect Hold – cater for every styling need with improved formulas based on state-of-the-art research from 2,000 scientists – and they look rather good, too. The aim of the range is to provide professional support to stylists around the globe, allowing them to express their creativity and craftsmanship by creating great looks that bring to life the individual style of every client.

THE TECHNOLOGY Each product contains innovative flexPROtec complex, which consists of two parts: first, product-specific styling polymers and bamboo proteins help to create any look and keep the style natural and flexible; second, a unique elastomer and UV filter helps protect the hair from premature colour fade and the damaging effects of heat styling and UV light so the hair is left feeling smooth and shiny.

CREATIVE HEAD

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“AT HOME, THE CLIENT IS THE STYLIST. WITH NEW STYLESIGN GREAT STYLE IS IN THEIR HANDS – THIS SET OF PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS WILL HELP CLIENTS EASILY RECREATE GREAT SALON LOOKS THEMSELVES” SHANE BENNETT, GOLDWELL UK GUEST ARTIST

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THIS IS HOW IT STARTS YOUR NEW STYLING SAVIOURS… JUST SMOOTH

FOR NORMAL TO COARSE HAIR SMOOTH CONTROL Smoothing Blow Dry Spray SOFT TAMER Taming Lotion FLAT MARVEL Straightening Balm SLEEK PERFECTION Thermal Spray Serum DIAMOND GLOSS Protect & Shine Spray

ULTRA VOLUME FOR FINE TO NORMAL HAIR

POWER WHIP Strengthening Mousse GLAMOUR WHIP Brilliance Styling Mousse DOUBLE BOOST Intense Root Lift Spray NATURALLY FULL Blow-Dry & Finish Bodifying Spray LAGOOM JAM Styling Gel

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PERFECT HOLD

FOR ALL YOUR HAIRSPRAY NEEDS MAGIC FINISH Non-Aerosol Hair Spray MAGIC FINISH Lustrous Hair Spray BIG FINISH Volumizing Hair Spray SPRAYER Powerful Hair Lacquer

CURLY TWIST

HYDRATE AND TAME CURLS OR CREATE CURLS ON STRAIGHT HAIR CURL CONTROL Moisturizing Curl Cream CURL SPLASH Hydrating Curl Gel TWIST AROUND Curl Styling Spray

CREATIVE TEXTURE FROM SHINY AND SLEEK TO ROUGH AND DISHEVELLED TEXTURIZER Texturizing Mineral Spray ROUGHMAN Matte Cream Paste CRYSTAL TURN High-Shine Gel Wax SHOWCASER Strong Mousse Wax MELLOGOO Modelling Paste UNLIMITOR Strong Spray Wax

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STYLESIGN

BY NUMBERS

23

PRODUCTS M AKE UP THE NEW STYLESIGN RA NGE

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6

BRAND NEW INNOVATIONS

3

THE NUMBER OF YEARS IT TOOK TO CREATE THE STYLESIGN RANGE

Great style is in your hands with StyleSign by Goldwell. To find out more, call 020 3540 1200 or visit goldwell.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD

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19/09/2016 15:35

FREE SUBSCRIBE TO CREATIVE HEAD AND RECEIVE...

£55

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CREATIVE HEAD AND ALL SUPPLEMENTS FOR 12 MONTHS FOR £33 THE BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE A/W16 COSMETIC BAG (WORTH £28.95) WITH SIGNATURE BALMAIN TASSEL, AS SEEN ON THE RUNWAY. THE LIMITED EDITION BAG CONTAINS A STYLING COMB AND TRAVEL SIZES OF THE BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE MOISTURIZING SHAMPOO AND MOISTURIZING CONDITIONER. YOU’LL ALSO RECEIVE THE NEW BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE STYLING POWDER (WORTH £26.95) – A MUST-HAVE MAGIC DUST FOR HAIR THAT GIVES MAXIMUM DEFINITION AND STRUCTURE. FIVE LUCKY SUBSCRIBERS WILL RECEIVE A BALMAIN PARIS HAIR COUTURE HALF WIG (WORTH £89.95) AS SEEN ON KIM KARDASHIAN, KENDALL JENNER AND GIGI HADID. WITH NINE MULTI-TONAL SHADES TO CHOOSE FROM, YOU CAN ENSURE A PERFECT MATCH AND ENVIABLE VOLUME, EVERY TIME.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

Rush Milton Keynes

Rush York

There’s no need to go it alone wh en opening a salon – become a Ru franchisee and be your own boss sh but enjoy the support of a big sa lon group

Rush Milton Keynes

Rush York

e e r f k a e Br

THERE’S NOTHING better than being your own boss – except regular updates for skills throughout the year, as well as creative being your own boss with the support of a nationally recognised opportunities you’ve previously only dreamt about. brand behind you. The 80-strong salon group Rush is currently For Jessica, the Rush York franchisee, it was the education looking to partner with passionate and ambitious individuals as offerings that really clinched the deal for her. it looks to expand the salon chain.

“The first thing that attracted me to Rush was how keen Joining the hair brand will the brand is on training and give you access to the support development for all of the and experience of a company that members of staff. The more I got has a proven business model and to know the brand, the more I more than 20 years of experience liked the idea of having a Rush in hair and beauty. salon and as soon as I had my ANDREW PAGE AND KELLY EGGLESTON, Going it alone can be daunting first meeting, I knew it was the RUSH MILTON KEYNES FRANCHISEES but if you become a Rush franchise for me,” she says. franchise partner, the brand will Rush is looking for be there for you through every step of the journey, from helping hairdressers with sound business acumen, fantastic people skills with funding, finding a location, store design and build and and determination to join its thriving programme. In return, staff recruitment, thanks to a dedicated team. you’ll join an award-winning company that’s readily recognised There’s also in-depth training programmes run by The Rush by clients nationwide. All you need is a minimum £15,000 Academy for every one of your stylists – both before opening and investment, passion, energy and drive.

“Rush is the perfect salon group to franchise with. We had an instant connection and a good feeling from the first meeting”

Get in touch to build a future with your own Rush Hair franchise today. To find out more, call 020 3740 6776, email franchising@rush.co.uk or visit careers.rush.co.uk/franchise CREATIVE HEAD

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TIME FOR A CHANGE

CLIENTS WHO SWITCH HAIR COLOUR FASTER THAN THEIR NAILS DON’T NEED TO WORRY ABOUT HAIR HEALTH ANYMORE, THANKS TO NEW BRITISH BRAND PERA|357 SEEING SOMEONE WITH rainbow hair or pink tips isn’t out of the ordinary anymore. Clients are becoming more adventurous with their hair colour, so the need to remove colour quickly and efficiently without damaging the hair is growing ever greater.

Clients and salons both want products that remove hair colour more safely and without resorting to the use of harsh chemicals. This is where PeRA|357 steps in.

Straight from the labs of Leeds University and with the backing of some of the best in the industry, the brand’s new PeRA|357 Re-Kolour is designed to make your life that little bit easier.

The in-salon service takes the fear out of hair colour removal by taking out up to 99 per cent of colour dye without damaging hair.

There’s no bleaching, no stripping, no oxidative damage and no orange hues left in the hair, just glorious, natural colour – allowing your client to change their hair colour as frequently as they change their nail colour.

Help your clients change their hair colour as often as they like with PeRA|357.

To find out more, call 0330 088 5650, email info@perachem.com or visit pera357.com 54

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BEFORE

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BEFORE

AFTER

KINDER | SAFER | FLEXIBLE

A D I F F E R E N T W AY O F T H I N K I N G !

RE–KOLOUR is a patented, scientific formula which allows removal of artificial hair colour, WITHOUT AFFECTING THE NATURAL PIGMENT, OR COMPROMISING THE CONDITION OF THE HAIR. This allows hair colour to be changed frequently, without the fear of damage… It’s a game changer!

To find out more visit pera357.com

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THE POWER OF THREE PERA|357 IS REVOLUTIONISING THE HAIR CARE SECTOR WITH TRIPLE IMPACT³ – A POWERFUL TREATMENT WITH THREE FABULOUS BENEFITS

GOOD THINGS COME in threes and Triple Impact³ by PeRA|357 is no exception. Containing three oils, this treatment has a three-fold effect: it creates volume, adds shine and significantly reduces drying time – all things clients would pay handsomely for.

We thought Re-Kolour – PeRA|357’s super-duper hair colour remover – would be a tough act to follow, but the new British brand is making itself known with another product – an amazing multi-benefit treatment.

One of the reasons Triple Impact³ is so effective is that it’s applied before a client shampoos or conditions their hair. Left on for five minutes, the treatment is then rinsed out before washing and conditioning the hair as normal (although clients may find they need less shampoo – another big benefit as they’ll find their shampoo lasts longer).

Available in three variations – for coloured, natural or white hair – the benefits of Triple Impact³ increases the more times a client uses it, so it is the perfect way to increase your retail revenue as it will soon develop a devoted following who will come back to your salon time and time again.

It’s guaranteed as the treatment is for salon distribution only and won’t be sold through internet companies, so once clients know you stock Triple Impact³, they’ll be knocking down your door to get it.

Find out why the best things come in threes today with Triple Impact³ by PeRA|357. To find out more, call 0330 088 5650, email info@perachem.com or visit pera357.com 58

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pera357.com

SHINE | VOLUME | SPEED

T R I P L E I M P A C T – A R E V O L U T I O N A R Y N E W P R E - S H A M P O O T R E AT M E N T Gives amazing shine & volume when used regularly, whilst significantly reducing drying time.

Specifically tailored for individual hair types… It’s a game changer!

To find out more visit pera357.com

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education

Gianni Scumaci worked for a decade at Sassoon and was its youngest-ever creative director. He then spent a further 10 years working in fashion with iconic photographers such as Tim Walker and David Bailey before travelling the world educating hairdressers in his salon and editorial techniques.

Gianni’s process is all about people first and then the hair.

He is either discovering a character within his salon or out on the streets, creating a character for an editorial or advertising campaign, or evolving a character by acquiring a deeper understanding of who they are as a person and celebrating them as an individual. Immerse yourself in Gianni’s work at creativeheadmag.com/ education

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OCTOBER’S FEATURED ARTIST: GIANNI SCUMACI

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CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION

INSPIRED BY “IT’S NOT THE HAIR THAT IS PRIMARY TO MY CREATIVE PROCESS, IT’S THE UNDERSTANDING OF THE CHARACTER THAT I’M INTERPRETING. “AS AN EXAMPLE OF THIS, I’D LIKE TO INTRODUCE MY LATEST WORK – A COLLABORATION WITH LBGT MOVEMENT, SINK THE PINK”

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“

cter a r a h c h c a e d n a t s r e I wanted to und o h w t c e fl e r o t l e v on a much deeper le e t a r b e l e c d n a n o s r e 'THEY' are as p y m o t e r o c 's it , y l l them individua rk o w o t h c a o r p p a y m philosophy and

”

“They call themselves “The World’s Biggest Gender Fuck Event”, and they’re not wrong. Since launching in 2008, Sink The Pink has transformed from a small, fun club night into a gigantic, genre-bending, expectationsmashing poly-sexual party, whose fans travel from across the globe to attend. Evoking the hedonism of the glorious Blitz club kids and the New Romantic age, Sink the Pink serves up bearded ladies, sword swallowers, fire eaters, and a huge middle finger to gender norms.

“I first met Sink the Pink co-founder Glyn Fussell in early 2014, when I cut his hair on a shoot with the photographer David Bailey. The connection between us was strong and over the following two years I worked closely with Glyn and the Sink The Pink movement to get to know the unique characters involved, gain their acceptance, and allow me to interpret their individual looks. The results – which formed an exhibition at the Edinburgh International Fashion Festival and are now published here exclusively in Creative HEAD – show the Sink the Pink performers in a vulnerable new light. Stripped naked both emotionally and physically, each character has their own story that inspired me to create and capture them in this way.”

education

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19/09/2016 15:54

CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION

”

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THE HEART OF THE MATTER

GIANNI OPENED THIS YEAR’S EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAL FASHION FESTIVAL BY GIVING AN INSIGHT INTO THE PHILOSOPHY BEHIND HIS WORK AND CREATIVE PROCESS. CREATIVE HEAD PUBLISHER CATHERINE HANDCOCK ASKED THE QUESTIONS…

CATHERINE HANDCOCK: So, Gianni, British hairdressing – about 36,000 salons bursting with young creative people and contributing £7billion a year to the UK economy. Yet so often we hear, “I’m just a hairdresser” or “It’s just a haircut”. Why is that?

GIANNI SCUMACI: I think it stems from our education system. In general, the hierarchy of subjects places maths and sciences at the top, and right down at the bottom are the arts. So creativity isn’t valued in the same way as literacy, and if you’re a young, creative teenager you may not be able to process the information given to you in class because it’s too didactic or maybe you are more visual in the way you accept information. It’s important to not make mistakes in literacy, yet mistakes are an essential part of the creative process and the exams given are more a test of memory than intelligence. When I left school, you had two options if you hadn’t done so well – you either became a bricklayer or a hairdresser. That really hasn’t changed today. I strongly believe that the school experience has created low self-esteem within our industry and most hairdressers – not to mention

education

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creatives in other fields – come away with a sense of failure. This is why a hairdresser will say, “I’m just a hairdresser” or “It’s just a haircut”. It makes my blood run cold to hear this. My hope is that as an industry we wake up and realise that academia is only part of the story, and the importance of our social function is very much on an equal with many others.

CH: As consumers, our relationship with our hairdresser is unique. There aren’t many people we happily visit regularly, confide our deepest secrets in and trust enough to alter our physical appearance, sometimes radically. But what about the other way round – how do hairdressers value their clients?

GS: Hairdressers place an incredible value on their clients. I think the issue is that hairdressers don’t value themselves. I don’t think they recognise the power and importance they have in the context of their client’s life. If hairdressers could value themselves as much as their clients do, the industry would be in a very different place.

HEAD ONLINE NOW! CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�EDUCATION

19/09/2016 15:55

CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION

CH: You say that people are more important than hair – and that you became aware of the importance of people at an early age in your father’s salon. What exactly was it about that salon environment that sparked this?

GS: My father is celebrating 50 years behind the same chair in the same barbershop that my grandfather built, there is no better example of dedication to the craft than this. So the barbershop is actually where I’m from.

It’s in me, where I started and it’s really my first love.

Barbershop intimacy is a much stronger culture than any salon environment I have ever worked in. As an eight-year-old working for pocket money on a Saturday and watching my father, it was his way with people that I was absorbing, not just the hair. I was exposed to conversations I wouldn’t normally have heard and I learned to use my ears as well as my eyes, which was an invaluable lesson in understanding people at such a young age. It became apparent to me that there was a lot more to people than just their hair.

CH: You are a third-generation hairdresser and you trained at Vidal Sassoon, which is known for its highly technical approach to cutting hair. How do you think these elements – the emotion of family, the discipline of Sassoon – have affected your approach to your craft?

GS: Vidal Sassoon gave me structure, which allowed me to articulate my work and creativity from a technical perspective. But once I had gone through that process, I found myself rebelling against it. I felt I was so far away from expressing the emotions and feelings I had with hair in a wider context – with an Irish-Italian upbringing, emotion is never far from the surface! I was approached to go into session work, where there are no rules – it was the polar opposite of where I had been. My collaborations over the years with photographer Tim Walker, who gave me almost complete creative autonomy, have matured me visually and creatively.

I approach my work with feeling first, and then I apply technique.

CH: You’ve worked in the advertising and session worlds where incredible amounts of time, money and people power go into creating a single image that’s designed to sell a dream. In essence, isn’t this what the hairdresser does every day, and eight or nine times every day, in a salon?

GS: I disagree. I don’t think hairdressers sell dreams, and I don’t think they should sell dreams. Hairdressers should sell the clients back to themselves and celebrate who they really are, possibly from a different perspective but one that’s in tune and connected. Hair is an extension of who we are and it’s the hairdresser’s responsibility to gain a deeper understanding of their client to interpret that correctly.

CH: What difference could it make if hairdressers had more self-belief in their power to transform people’s lives? How would that impact the profession, and what could it mean for us as consumers?

GS: It would be seismic. I think having the respect for ourselves as individuals and as a profession would change us dramatically and command respect from outside the salon walls. The way hairdressing is seen today in a wider social context is a reflection of how we see ourselves. The respect for this profession has to come from within. It’s the power, not just the hair, which is in our hands, and now is the time to start believing it.

TO SEE A VIDEO OF THIS INTERVIEW, VISIT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM�EDUCATION

CREATIVE HEAD

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DISCOVER

The Social Function Of A Hairdresser

THIS IS ABOUT CONNECTION AND UNDERSTANDING SOMEONE’S BOUNDARIES

“The social function of a hairdresser is truly to understand how someone feels and, from this, celebrate their identity.

“Understanding the importance of this role is paramount to commanding the respect this industry so strongly deserves.”

“I do a lot of streetcasting, and I found this guy working in a bar. At first, he was unsure about me cutting his hair as he’d cut his own hair for years and didn’t like the thought of anyone else touching it. However, I persuaded him to come to my studio as we spoke I discovered he was shy and quite reclusive. The cut I gave him was as if he’d cut his own hair – I was interpreting him as he is, not how I wanted him to be. The shoot was published in i-D magazine.”

discover

“I have just launched GS EDUCATION, and these three elements are core to its philosophy and my approach to teaching: we DISCOVER area of individual needs, CREATE techniques to support those needs, and EVOLVE people through technical knowledge and skill truly to fulfil their potential.

“GS EDUCATION is a simple, understandable approach to cutting hair that will empower stylists with a deeper understanding of their work.

My online Step By Step technical cutting videos from the Foundation series cover in-depth the key elements of shape and technique in cutting hair.”

free!

The videos are available to stream now at gianniscumaci.com.

From 8 to 14 October, Round Layer Technique is free for Creative HEAD readers, just quote CHUK at the checkout.

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21/09/2016 15:50

EVOLVE

THIS IS ABOUT RE-FRAMING SOMEONE AND TAKING THEM BEYOND THEIR BOUNDARIES “Fanni was an unknown model when she came to me in the salon, and I sensed that she saw herself in a particular way – she was quite tomboyish, a bit of a skater. I saw that way too, but I also saw what I could do with her. I gave her a haircut that she could wear down for a softer, feminine look, but beneath it was a severe undercut that she could display to reveal her more androgynous side. Within two hours of leaving the salon she’d been booked for a highprofile ad campaign, and ‘The Fanni’ became an iconic look used in shows and campaigns for Gap, Gucci and Jil Sander – it even became a question in Trivial Pursuit! The reason why this haircut was so successful is because it wasn’t done to a brief for a shoot – I did it because I had identified who Fanni was inside, which is far more powerful than working from a physical aesthetic.”

CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION

evolve

CREATE

THIS IS ABOUT INTRODUCING SOMETHING NEW AND NOT RELATED TO THE PERSON

create

“We were on a shoot in Russia for Vogue. The stylist was Kate Phelan, the photographer was Tim Walker, and the model was Sasha Pivovarova. We’d already spent five weeks brainstorming references, and I’d arrived with a full awareness of what was required from the hair. However, Sasha missed her flight and suddenly we just had one day to shoot everything. I’d originally had an idea for a wig that Tim hadn’t liked, but I’d packed it anyway.

As soon as we started shooting, I knew in my gut that the wig was the right way to go, so when Sasha had a quick tea break I put it on her and cut in a fringe. Everyone was looking for Sasha and Kate saw me with her and ran over, shouting. Then she put a cheap plastic gold hat on Sasha and started shouting for Tim to come over and take a look, and he started shooting her with that cup of tea and everyone knew Sasha’s whole character had suddenly come alive. That shot almost made the front cover, except there were no clothes in it – that’s my cutting gown around Sasha’s shoulders!”

GIANNI SCUMACI is our Featured Artist at Creative HEAD Education this month, which is complete with tutorials, techniques and hundreds of new ideas.

Come and be inspired at CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/EDUCATION 62-69_Gianni.indd 9

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event

GLASGOW EVENT MONDAY 24 OCTOBER 2016 7pm until 10pm

Sponsored by

EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEWS WITH TWO GLOBETROTTING GO-GETTERS ON THEIR CAREERS IN THE FASHION SPHERE, AND INSIGHT INTO THE EVOLUTION OF SCOTLAND’S ACCLAIMED FASHION FESTIVAL

ANNA CHAPMAN SESSION STYLIST AND FOUNDER OF SESSION KIT

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ANNA FREEMANTLE-ZEE FOUNDER OF THE EDINBURGH INTERNATIONAL FASHION FESTIVAL

NLINE BUY TICKETSOMO /THECOTERIE CREATIVEHEADMAG.C OR CALL 01434 610944

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19/09/2016 15:58

LONDON EVENT MONDAY 7 NOVEMBER 2016 7pm until 10pm

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UNIQUE CONVERSATION ABOUT THE CHANGING FACE OF TRENDS, EXPLORING A NEW LANDSCAPE FOR FASHION – AND ITS NEW INFLUENCERS. WHAT’S TRENDING NOW AND WHO’S CALLING THE SHOTS?

JAYSON GRAY HAIRDRESSER AND FOUNDER OF ONLINE MAGAZINE AND CREATIVE HUB, KARBON KYD

MAGGIE NORDEN BROADCASTER, PRODUCER AND COMMUNICATION DIRECTOR AT THE LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION

FOR £40 O TW R O H C EA 5 2 £ ST O C S ET TICK ES AND A GOODIE BAG INCLUDES DRINKS,CANAP

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19/09/2016 15:59

Help is at hand

When you need to support clients who are dealing with the effects of breast cancer treatment, the ‘You are not defined by your hair’ campaign is here ACCORDING TO THE World Health Organisation, 1.7 million women across the world will be told they have breast cancer this year. The prospect of a woman losing her hair through chemotherapy only adds to this lifechanging and daunting diagnosis as her selfesteem and confidence take another knock.

Partnering with the biggest names in the fashion and beauty industry, ghd is supporting Breast Cancer Now, the UK’s largest breast cancer charity, with the launch of its ‘You are not defined by your hair’ campaign and an online resource hub.

Hosted at ghdhair.com/pink, the site features four tutorials, including advice on how to style a wig by Zoë Irwin, how to style hair once it starts growing back by Adam Reed, as well as expert advice from breast clinical nurse specialist, Denise Flett.

“Having worked in the field of breast cancer for more than 15 years, I have witnessed the difficulties patients face,” says Denise. “Often the most significant anxiety regarding treatment is loss of hair. A resource that can offer practical and expert tips in an empowering way is something we would direct patients and colleagues to.”

‘YOU ARE NOT DEFINED BY YOUR HAIR’

Let’s make it to £10m!

The annual ghd pink limited editions have raised £9 million so far for breast cancer charities across the globe and this year ghd wants to increase that number to £10 million with you and your clients’ support. For every purchase of a ghd limited edition electric pink styling product, the brand will make a donation to Breast Cancer Now.

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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL

INK #NOTDEFINED TUTORIALS ARE NOW LIVE ON GHDHAIR.COM/P

Limited edition ghd platinum electric pink styler and roll bag, £165

Limited edition ghd V electric pink styler and roll bag, £135

Limited edition ghd air electric pink hairdryer and dust bag, £99

£10 Breast Cancer Now donation.

With ghd’s tri-zone technology, this platinum styler comes in electric pink, is proven to be safer for hair* and achieves shinier results** in just one stroke.

£10 Breast Cancer Now donation.

The classic ghd V styler comes clad in electric pink and features advanced ceramic heat technology and smooth, contoured plates for effortless styling.

£10 Breast Cancer Now donation.

The classic ghd hairdryer has had a makeover with the addition of pink accents to its ergonomic shape – perfect for creating a sleek blow-dry with bouncy volume.

*Versus a styler operating at 230˚C. **Versus untreated hair

R’

Make a difference during Breast Cancer Awareness Month with ghd.

For more information, contact your ghd account manager, call 0845 330 1133 or visit ghdhair.com/pink 73 83

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HEAVEN SCENT

MAKE BEAUTIFUL HAIR SMELL DIVINE WITH FOUR NEW HAIR FRAGRANCES

BY KERASILK, THE PREMIUM HAIRCARE RANGE FROM GOLDWELL

CONTROL

Oriental notes combine with a soft, woody scent for a warming, nuanced fragrance.

RECONSTRUCT

A blend of magnolia, jasmine and patchouli make for a multi-faceted, feminine scent.

REPOWER

Delicate hints of freesia and lilies and light citrus notes conjure up a lively, fresh aroma.

*Mintel Scent Trends/Lightspeed GMI 2015

THE SLIGHTEST aroma of perfume can trigger memories of long summer days and romantic nights – it’s why we wear scents and change them to suit our moods and the seasons.

Sixty per cent of women who wear a fragrance would also opt for a hair fragrance with additional hair care properties if they had the chance.* Seeing the opportunity to develop the already much-loved Kerasilk line, Goldwell is maximising on people’s love of fragrance with four luxurious new offerings:

COLOR

A touch of rose perfectly rounded with white musk provides a light, appealing scent.

Not only will a spritz of any of these fragrances have clients’ hair smelling gorgeous, each one will help give hair that freshly washed feeling and leave it looking shiny and silky to the touch, without weighing it down.

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Gorgeous hair that smells as good as it looks is now possible with Kerasilk’s new hair fragrances. To find out more, call 020 3540 1200 or visit goldwell.co.uk

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! e m i a t ’ J When the winners were revealed at the glittering final of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy, a magical journey was only just beginning. Yes, there’s the ticker tape, the champagne, the flowers… then all the attention from the stars of the industry, as well as local and national press. But a heavenly highlight of being crowned winner is the chance to grab that passport, be whisked across to Paris, the fashion capital of the globe, and work on a stunning shoot to bring your victorious visions back to life. Here, in an exclusive with Creative HEAD, the L’Oréal Colour Trophy winners recall the moment their names were called out - and what victory has meant for them so far...

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JACK EAMES

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#LCT16

L’Oréal C olour Trophy W inner, Sinéad Ke lly London

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“Instantly our profile in Peter Mark skyrocketed.

Our image has been on so many websites, social media pages and in local press. We are so in demand, it really is a dream come true!”

ALANDA PATRICK & THOMAS HILLAN, PETER MARK, FOREST SIDE MIZANI AFRO LOOK AWARD WINNER

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#LCT16

get to o t y k c u l o s s “I wa of the e m o s h it w k r o w in the s r e s s e r d ir a h best was it , is r a P in y industr curve g in n r a e l t a e r a g g seeing in ir p s in o s d n a e their t a e r c e r e n o y r eve emory m A . s k o o l g winnin rget!”

I will never fo LEISH, GRACE DALG OOKS BROOKS+BR RITE DGES’ FAVOU JU – D R A W A STAR

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“The whole team has been on cloud nine ever since the win and it has motivated them to enter the competition themselves next year. When your name is called out it’s thrilling! The trip to Paris for this shoot was a great way to celebrate and start a great winning year!”

TRACEY GALLAGHER, URBAN RETREAT L’ORÉAL MEN’S IMAGE AWARD WINNER

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“The moment we won was surreal and overwhelming followed by an intense adrenaline rush - an emotional rollercoaster! It’s been an unforgettable journey to showcase our skills and talent on a national scale. It’s been a thrilling and careerchanging opportunity” VAS MIKELLIDES (COLOURIST) AND SARA BEGANTINI (STYLIST) SINÉAD KELLY LONDON L’ORÉAL COLOUR TROPHY AWARD WINNER

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HAIR UK L’Oreal Colour Trophy winners – L’Oréal Colour Trophy Award: Sara Begantini and Vas Mikellides, Sinéad Kelly London; L’Oréal Men’s Image Award: Tracey Gallagher, Urban Retreat; Mizani Afro Look Award: Thomas Hillan and Alanda Patrick, Peter Mark, Forest Side; STAR Award – Judges’ Favourite: Grace Dalgleish, Brooks+Brooks. MAKE-UP Lauren Kay.

#LCT16

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NOT JUST HOT AIR…

RENOWNED HAIR TOOL EXPERT CLOUD NINE HAS UPPED THE STAKES AGAIN WITH THE LAUNCH OF THE BRAND’S FIRST-EVER HAIRDRYER, THE AIRSHOT YOU WANT A hairdryer that’s light and easy to use. One that doesn’t give you arm ache after hours of use and that you know you can rely on to keep going and going and going.

Your client wants a hairdryer that helps them create any style they want with ease, while also caring for their hair. One that diminishes frizz while adding shine would also be pretty special. The Cloud Nine Airshot does it all. It’s the result of rigorous testing and took two years to perfect. A sleek 2,000W styling powerhouse, the dryer features tourmaline and

vitamin-infused ceramic heating elements that help care for the hair during styling, while anti-static technology reduces the amount of negatively charged particles, diminishing frizz and flyaways and adding silkiness and shine.

And there’s more: three heat settings with an LED temperature indicator and a balanced weight distribution means you can create a multitude of styles with ease. Finally, a cool shot button allows for rapid cooling of the hair to set your style in place and help it last.

Light and powerful motor Two different-sized nozzles

Tourmaline and vitamin-infused ceramic heating elements Balanced weight distribution Cool air shot button

Powerful airflow with multi-speed air control Three heat settings

Storage hook

Three-metre cord

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COLD OUTSIDE?

HEAT THINGS UP IN YOUR SALON WITH CLOUD NINE AS THE BRAND REVEALS TWO LIMITED EDITION GIFT SETS FOR CLIENTS TO CHOOSE FROM THIS CHRISTMAS

THE ORIGINAL IRON GIFT SET

THE WIDE IRON GIFT SET

Cloud Nine’s award-winning Original Iron will never go out of fashion and can be used to create a variety of styles quickly and easily.

Its unique mineral-infused ceramic floating plates and curved body will allow clients to achieve anything from glamorous curls to sleek locks.

Ideal for clients with thicker hair, the Wide Iron features mineral-coated ceramic plates designed to smooth the most troublesome kinks, as well as locking in moisture. It can be used to create large, bouncy curls or perfectly straight hair with minimum effort – whatever your client fancies.

Discover how the Cloud Nine Airshot can help create the styles you want today.

For more information, call 01943 811310 or visit professional.cloudninehair.com CREATIVE HEAD

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IN ASSOCIATION WITH

GH TO U O N E DENT R SALON I F N U CO HE’S ING TO YO D N A NTS, MAN COM A W E HAT H THE NEW W S OW EET HE KN FOR IT – M

MANKIND IS EVOLVING – all you have to do is look around to notice that in 2016, traditional masculinity has morphed into something much more happy and confident. So what, or who, is replacing it?

According to research conducted by men’s lifestyle magazine Coach, 82 per cent of guys agreed that “there is no set path in front of me for life” and only 10 per cent of men feel pressured to dress in a certain way now. Enter the ‘Alta-male’ – the new breed of man.

“We’ve called this person the Alta-male – ‘Alta’ as in higher – a step further up the evolutionary mountain,” says Coach editor Ed Needham. The Alta-male is content with his own sense of individuality and feels free and confident to be himself. He sees the traditional limits of ‘maleness’ as outdated, and age is no barrier to doing the things that make him happy.

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ASK

This has great implications for salons and barbershops – if men are increasingly shunning the status quo and instead coming up with their own ideas of what they want, then you have to know how to give it to them. So how can you ensure you get this new breed of man through your doors?

“The very concept of masculinity has evolved dramatically in recent years, therefore communications in barbers and salons need to move with this,” says Sue Lever, education specialist and events coordinator at Fudge Professional.

“The Alta-male is increasingly confident in his own identity, being fitter, healthier and happier. He’s looking to experience an increased feel-good factor, rather than a one-fits-all experience. The initial consultation is essential – stylists need to consider the client’s lifestyle, hair type suitability and individual likes and dislikes to deliver a bespoke in salon experience.”

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London School of Barbering for Fudge Professional

#Grooming

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Dan Rix at The Company of Master Barbers 86

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Dan Rix at The Company of Master Barbers

makeover with Aveda? Head to creativeheadmag.com to enter

experience, where we hang out together and it feels like they are just coming for a beer, but they leave with a haircut.”

So you’ve got chatting – but what does the Alta-male want in terms of styling? “The days of just following a trend have gone,” reveals Daniel Davies, general manager at Pall Mall Barbers. “When I first started out everyone came to a barber to get the latest David Beckham haircut but now it’s become about personal wellbeing. Salons and barbershops need to stop thinking that there are only five haircuts.”

“Guys in particular find it difficult to express what they are trying to achieve,” he continues. “Encourage them to use platforms such as Instagram to show you what styles they like – we have iPads available rather than dated barbershop images, so the client can ensure they are giving the barber the right inspiration for the look they want.”

Pall Mall Barbers

WANT TO WIN a barbershop

Aveda Grooming Station

“The ideal salon would have clean lines and be light and bright – but not too minimalist as it still has to be relaxed,” says Ian Harrold, director at Attitude Mens Hair and American Crew All Star team member. “Family is important to the Alta-male, so offer special deals for families and good loyalty schemes. Something to keep the kids entertained while he gets his hair cut would be a bonus, and he’d appreciate a coffee made just the way he likes it.”

Ky Wilson, founder of The Social and It List Entrepreneur 2016 winner, agrees that the experience has to feel authentic, with an emphasis on making your clients know they are welcome to be themselves. “The way I approach my clients is exactly how I would like to be treated. First, ask all the questions. Second, just listen to them and, third, give them a killer haircut! I like to create a professional but unpretentious

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of styling and finishing products which help to enhance natural textures – they are most likely to be snapped up.”

“Include wet shaves, nose hair trimming and other grooming services,” says Daniel Davies. “Use extra touches to please the senses – we use our signature sandalwood and clove scent around the shops to evoke the nostalgic ambience of old-school barbershops. This guy is not looking for an inand-out service – he is looking for a full experience.”

“As far as retention goes, the Alta-male will be with us for the long term, whereas dominant Alpha male types quickly move on to what he believes is the next best thing,” believes Dan Rix from The Company of Master Barbers, which stocks hundreds of brands, including American Crew. “From a purely commercial point of view, there are far more Alta-males than Alphas, so we as service providers will be quids in.”

Dan Rix at The Company of Master Barbers

Osmo CREATIVE HEAD

Osmo

Dan Rix at The Company of Master Barbers

Pall Mall Barbers

It’s worth remembering that the communication you invested time in will pay off, as you can use what you know about your guy to advise him on his style. “We need to take into consideration the alta-male’s lifestyle,” says Eric Begg, Osmo brand ambassador and co-owner of Slicks Barbers in Glasgow. “If he likes to spend time grooming he is more likely to go for a high maintenance style, whereas a busy, active guy will be looking for something like a messy, textured crop.”

And once you’ve mastered cutting, you can offer additional salon services and professional products – because the Alta-male is often willing to go the extra mile. “You could offer hair and scalp consultations, and offering a full range of shampoos and conditioners allows more bespoke recommendations for improvement on every hair type,” suggests Sue Lever. “And make sure you stock a wide variety

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ESSENTIAL PRODUCTS TO STOCK FOR YOUR MALE CLIENTELE

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WIN! One of 10 Hair Shaper gravity feed retail dispensers, visit creativeheadmag.com

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1. Reach for the new American Crew Heavy Hold Pomade to create strong, bold styles – it provides tonnes of hold with amazing shine. RRP £14.50, americancrew.com 2. Enriched with zesty mint and ginseng, L’Oréal Professionnel Homme Energic Shampoo is a real wake-up call. RRP £10.49, lorealprofessionnel.co.uk 3. Style it up with Fudge Professional Matte Head texturising paste. RRP £12.45, fudgeprofessional.com 4. Kérastase Bain Densité Homme is a daily shampoo that scrubs the scalp clean and leaves hair feeling fuller. RRP £17.90, kerastse.co.uk 5. Men-ü offers a range of duo gift sets – choose from clays, definers and the innovative cream-to-liquid Liquiflex. RRP £8.95 each, men-u.co.uk 6. The Super Motor Clipper from BaByliss PRO offers precision on hair of every thickness – it’s fast, balanced and powerful, for a smooth, clean finish. RRP £112.50, babylisspro.co.uk 7. Mitch Clean Cut is a classic styling cream that provides a semi-matte finish and can be reshaped throughout the day.

RRP £14.95 salon-success.co.uk 8. Hair Shaper is Fudge Professional’s best-selling product, and no wonder as it provides strong hold and a messy feel. RRP £12.45, fudgeprofessional.com 88

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Hair by London School of Barbering for Fudge Professional

SHAPE SHIFTER SCULPT YOUR GROOMING PROWESS WITH FUDGE PROFESSIONAL’S NUMBER ONE PEOPLE PLEASER – HAIR SHAPER YOU HAVE THE power to shape your future – you can shape your body in the gym, you can shape your career with education, you can shape your hair with the right product in your hands. And with one unit sold every two minutes worldwide, there’s no more powerful shaper to rely on than the iconic Hair Shaper, the first product ever launched

by Fudge Professional.

Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Hair Shaper is a strong hold, semi-matte, reworkable texturising crème designed to thicken, control, mould and define hair into lived-in looks that your male clients will adore.

What gives Hair Shaper its knockout power? It’s a winning blend of natural waxes that work to improve the hair’s

condition while styling, and the delicious caramel fragrance makes it that little bit sweeter. Resistance is futile!

Shapes need to be flexible, and this styler has a reworkable consistency that keeps your guy looking good all day, with special film formers delivering help against humidity, making it resilient, whatever the day throws at him. You’ll find hydrolised wheat protein that strengthens the hair, while a blend of natural lanolin and carnauba wax provides extreme texture and definition.

Yet Hair Shaper is water soluble to allow your guys to wash it out in a flash and start shaping all over again.

Be in control, shape your client’s style, shape your salon’s barbering business – with Hair Shaper at your fingertips.

New for Hair Shaper’s 25th anniversary – this limited edition Hair Shaper gravity feed retail dispenser – stu ffed full of the iconic styler. And we have 10 to give away – go to creativeheadmag.com Also new this month, the ! travelsized Hair Shaper ensure s any man can groom on the go!

Shape your men’s retail for success with Fudge Professional’s iconic Hair Shaper.

Call 020 7845 6333 or visit fudgeprofessional.com CREATIVE HEAD

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9. Aim for perfection and remodel as

many times as you like with the Hungarian mud-infused Deconstructor from label.men. RRP £11.50 labelm.com 10. Use Goldwell’s StyleSign Roughman Matte Cream Paste to create rugged styles. RRP £12 goldwell.co.uk 11. Apothecary87 has launched the Muskoka Beard Balm, which has a delicious maple fragrance, sweet!

RRP £16, apothecary87.co.uk 12. Men will love the zingy feeling of Fudge Professional Cool Mint Purify Shampoo and Conditioner. RRP £9.95 each, fudgeprofessional.com 13. This Tangle Teezer has a sleek metallic finish, and can easily be carried around for quick tidy-ups. RRP £12.50, tangleteezer.com 14. Osmo’s Extreme Volume Mega Styling Foam reduces frizz and adds body. RRP £10.50, osmo.uk.com 15. Aveda’s Invati Men is a two-step system designed for guys to tackle hair thinning head on. RRP from £22.50, aveda.co.uk

Show guys they’re number one with the Boss barber chair from Salon Ambience (inset left) – it boasts a beautiful old–school style, with artisan stitching and upholstery. And it’s on offer until the end of the year for £1,319 rather than the usual £2,499; 07554 990965, salonambience.com.

Got a classic Takara Belmont barber chair? Pimp it up with the new MTR2 motorised base (below) £POA; 020 7515 0333, takarahairdressing.co.uk.

The base offers marvellous manoeuvrability while being quicker than a traditional hydraulic base and it’s available in three colour options: black, silver and white.

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Hair by London School of Barbering for Fudge Professional

PERFECT PARTNERS FUDGE PROFESSIONAL HAS TEAMED UP WITH LONDON SCHOOL OF BARBERING TO HELP LEAD THE NEXT GENERATION OF BARBERS. IT’S THE START OF SOMETHING SPECIAL… BARBERING HAS COME into its own in recent years and more and more hair professionals are choosing to go down the barbering route. As client expectation grows, it’s more important than ever to be able to offer a quality education and training for those that wish to offer high-end barbering services. So Fudge Professional has joined forces with the UK’s leader in barbering education, London School of Barbering. The new collaboration is centred on a shared commitment to delivering excellence in education and driving the barbering industry forwards.

Students can look forward to being trained using the Fudge Professional product portfolio and its educators will also use the products within their own creative barbering projects. In exchange, the school, as experts in barbering education, will support Fudge Professional with tailored education and create

hair shows for the brand’s global hairdressers. Based in central London, the London School of Barbering courses are designed for those starting their career as well as those already in the industry wishing to grow their skillset.

Its training approach is hands-on, simple but structured, and combines traditional barbering with modern male hairdressing.

Graduates leave highly skilled and knowledgeable about cutting and styling men’s hair.

Sue Lever, education specialist at Fudge Professional, said: “As a brand for the professional hairdresser, we are keen to progress our collaborations with companies who are excelling in their field. Male grooming is a key focus for us, and the London School of Barbering is constantly striving in education and creativity; it’s a strong association for us to be aligned alongside.”

For more information on new London School of Barbering Discovery Events, in association with Fudge Professional, visit londonschoolofbarbering.com or email info@londonschoolofbarbering CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR BY LONDON SCHOOL OF BARBERING | LONDONSCHOOLOFBARBERING.COM | FIND YOUR STOCKIST ON FUDGEPROFESSIONAL.COM

HAIR SHAPER THE ORIGINAL. 25 YEARS AND STILL GOING STRONG

#Grooming

MALE GROOMING

WINNING EDGES

TELEVISION, TECHNOLOGY AND THE BIGGEST MENSWEAR SHOW AROUND – THE MOST WANTED MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST GIVES US THE LOWDOWN ON HOW HE IS RESHAPING BARBERING WITH THE STREETS full of sharp cuts, beards and man buns, it’s no secret that barbering is enjoying a renaissance. Male grooming is a creative and luxurious industry that men want to invest in and be part of. And at the forefront of this revolution is Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist, Chris Foster.

“I like to incorporate traditional barbering with a modern flair, I’m trying to deliver fresh and innovative ideas to mens’ hairdressing,” says Chris. You can see his distinctive approach in his work as creative director at The Refinery in Mayfair, as well as the Harrods Barbershop in Knightsbridge.

Chris has combined salon work with session styling to give him a wide range of skills, earning a Master Craftsman award and leading up global creative teams in Moscow, Paris, New York and London. He explains: “I headed up the team for Ozwald Boateng in 2010 where we had to style an incredible 105 male models.”

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This keen ability to identify trends has not gone unnoticed, and Chris is often asked to give his take on the hottest looks for consumers, translating fashion trends and issues in men’s grooming to the general public. His recent appearances include Daybreak, The Alan Titchmarsh Show and MTV’s Beauty School Cop Outs.

And Chris has shared this expertise with fellow professionals, too. In 2008 he launched the Foss Academy, an education programme designed to “challenge conventional barbering techniques”. He adds: “The Foss Academy was born out of my passion to cultivate stylists to offer elite services and push creative boundaries.”

“I wanted to package years of knowledge and share it in a digestible format. My YouTube channel introduces people to the Academy and hopefully will take them to the next step – the app.” The Foss Academy app provides tutorials on the fundamentals of barbering, professional wet shaving, cutting techniques and razor hair design.

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Chris sees his place in the industry as a mentor, helping to teach and inspire future generations. “I am very passionate about giving back to my industry and feel that we need to inspire young barbers and help them take their passion for hair forward,” he says. That’s why, as style director for the British Barber Association, he developed the MenSpire mentoring programme, “to help, find and coach the best of the next generation of elite barbers”.

So it’s no wonder that he was crowned Male Grooming Specialist at the 2016 Most Wanted Awards. “Next year I celebrate 25 years in the hairdressing industry, and what a way to start the celebrations!” he says. “I always wanted to win a Most Wanted award, because I’ve always seen these awards as the ultimate creative accolade, but in the past there’s never been a category that quite fit my skillset… until now! I’ll continue to champion the art of men’s grooming, and hope that in doing so I might be able to inspire others to look into this industry.”

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IT AIN’T NEC 96

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BRUSHING SHOULDERS WITH ITS ’20S HERITAGE, ROBERT BRAID FOR APOTHECARY 87 BLENDS A MODERN VIBE WITH THE TEMPERANCE OF THE PROHIBITION ERA

E S S A R I LY S O PHOTOGRAPHY BY LIAM OAKES

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HAIR: Robert Braid for Apothecary 87.

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S T R E T C H A PLAY ON SILHOUETTE AND STRUCTURAL COMBINATIONS, TIM HARTLEY CELEBRATES NATURAL HAIR TEXTURE AND DIVERSITY. FORGET ABOUT CONTROL; THIS IS ABOUT SHAPE AND FLUIDITY PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANDREW GILBERT CREATIVE HEAD

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HAIR Tim Hartley. MAKE-UP Melissa Bourne. PRODUCTION AKAcreate.

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SECOND

SKIN Breathtaking complexity on a pared-down canvas, Lucie Doughty for Paul Mitchell evokes an Elizabethan vibe fused with a modern sensibility in Statuesque PHOTOGRAPHY BY ALBERT SANCHEZ 104

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HAIR Lucie Doughty, global editorial director for Paul Mitchell. ART DIRECTION Pedro Zalba. MAKE-UP John Stapleton @AIM Artists using MAC Cosmetics. MODELS Annie Montgomery @Photogenics, Dallas Hernandez @Ford Models.

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Scene Host Rob Beckett

THE HOTTEST EVENTS EVERY MONTH – GET YOURSELF SCENE!

Extra!

Extra!

YOU’RE GOING TO need to mark some time out of your column to fully enjoy and digest the special 64-page Most Wanted and It List Awards 2016 Grand Final supplement, totally free with this issue. There’s all the action from both the Great Hall and the atmospheric crypts, as well as an exclusive shoot with photographer Jon Baker that captures some of the most stylish and best-known names at their most candid! So, grab it now and enjoy – then pencil March 2017 into your diary, when the Most Wanted and It List Awards open for entries again. Perhaps you’ll be in next year’s supplement, holding a trophy aloft?

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TO SEE LOTS MORE look out for our special Most Wanted and It List Awards supplement, free with this issue!

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John Paul DeJoria

THIS IS HOW WE Vegas TAKE 3,000 US hairstylists. Add a bevy of business gurus, Kanye West’s life coach, a major new product launch, 150 models and dancers and a 100-foot stage complete with enormous video screens. Mix together in the luxurious Aria Resort & Casino, Las Vegas, and what do you get?

Welcome to Paul Mitchell’s The Gathering – a three-day educational motivational (and simply sensational!) experience combining stage presentations, business coaching, hands-on workshops and networking that gives delegates a unique preview into everything the Paul Mitchell brand has in store for salons and their customers over the next 12 months. The Gathering was hosted by philanthropist and Paul Mitchell co-founder John Paul DeJoria alongside the charming global artistic director Robert Cromeans and artistic director of education Angus Mitchell, son of Paul. We were introduced to new teen range NEON; semi-permanent hair colour The Demi; Pop XG – 13 intermixable vibrant shades that give a long-lasting pop of colour; a collection of male grooming techniques and classes in everything from retail to team performance. And there was partying too, of course. Every delegate was invited to the Black Tie Affair where they could mingle with fellow Paul Mitchell pros while enjoying signature Patron cocktails (John Paul is a founder of the premium tequila brand), hors d’oeuvres and dancing. Somehow, however, the UK PR team managed to top even this with a trip in a stretch Hummer to Fremont Street in downtown Vegas, where the UK delegation enjoyed live music, zip line tours and people-watching like never before.

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TURN THE PAGE to see even more from Paul Mitchell’s The Gathering in Las Vegas

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Robert Cromeans

Live

“THERE’S A TRUE family spirit at Paul Mitchell,” says Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock, who attended this year’s The Gathering. “I was impressed by how much emphasis was placed on sharing – whether that’s giving back to the community through charitable initiatives, or teaching new techniques and ideas to delegates, ensuring everyone went back to their salon fired up to improve their own client offering.” New to Paul Mitchell’s educational line-up, Business rEvolution brought together salon owners and stylists to talk exclusively about business, finance, entrepreneurship and team development in a series of well-organised workshops and seminars delivered by top educators including Jason Yates, Antony Whitaker and Carol Phillips. There was also an inspirational General Session featuring world-renowned motivational speaker Tim Storey, which had everybody high-fiving in the aisles. Attendees could also choose to enjoy a host of hands-on classes focused on haircutting and colour, as well as four artistic Look & Learn segments including Mitch Men’s Grooming and NEON styles for the younger clientele. “Successful people do all of the things that unsuccessful people do not want to do,” John Paul DeJoria told his audience, giving everyone an exciting sense of determination.

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Angus Mitchell

BEAUTIFULLY

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Catherine Handcock

Gianni Scumaci Gianni with EIFF founder Anna Freemantle-Zee and Sink the Pink founder Glyn Fussell (centre)

GENDER

agenda WHEN Gianni Scumaci was given the honour of opening the Edinburgh International Fashion Festival this summer, he rose to the occasion with a thought-provoking interview with Creative HEAD publisher Catherine Handcock on the social roles and responsibilities of the hairdresser, addressing the need to incorporate emotion and feeling alongside the technique of hairdressing in order to bring out the best in clients. Gianni also discussed his most recent project – a collaboration with Sink the Pink, the people behind one of London’s best polysexual party nights and a major force behind dissolving gender stereotypes. The story behind Gianni’s stunning hair looks for Sink the Pink performers was discussed onstage with Sink the Pink founder Glyn Fussell – and can now be found exclusively in Creative HEAD on page 62.

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WHY YOU SHOULD BECOME

BECOME A MEMBER IN 2016 MAKE SURE YOUR BUSINESS IS WATERTIGHT • Free employment law advice around the clock • Free employment contracts, apprenticeship and chair renting agreements • NHF pension scheme

HELP YOU GROW YOUR BUSINESS • Business training courses • Free business advice guides • Competitions and demonstrations

GET YOUR VOICE HEARD • Campaigning - we fight for you on key issues that affect our industry

SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY • We are your one stop shop for your businesses needs • Discounts on salon insurance and music licences plus many more To find out why it pays to join the NHF Call us on: 01234 831965 or email us: enquiries@nhf.info

www.nhf.info/why

On stage selfie with Paul Mitchell's Noogie Thai

My style class atten dees try out the new NEO N produ cts

Using the new NEON styling system on stage

In the

The tea m prepp ing a gran d finale look

frame

Ass istin g Noogie with his Prin ce-i nsp ired fina le

Vicki Panting from Outcast salon snaps away in Las Vegas at Paul Mitchell’s The Gathering SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!

POP XG model before… …POP XG model after

Lucie Doughty handpainting a POP XG model

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My style class mod els with the one and only Jea n Bra a

Prepping with Noogie and Severine Papin POP XG models post-show

Tea m style at The Gathering!

Incredible henna work for The Demi launch show

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18/08/2016 14:37