£4.50 OCTOBER 2018
In print•online•everywhere!
CREATIV
E HEAD
OCTOBER 2018 CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM
D R WO E H T ON ET E R STST YLE STARTS HERE
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THE ETS E R ST T HE ORIGINAL FASHION HOUSE
CREATIVE HEAD’S ONGOING CRUSADE FOR KEEPING IT REAL HAS SEEN MANY STUNNING SHOOTS SPILL-OUT ACROSS ITS PAGES, BUT NEVER BEFORE HAVE WE OBSERVED SUCH REALNESS AS WE DO HERE AND NOW. IN A HAIR FASHION STORY THAT KICKS COUTURE TO THE KERB, THREE EXCEPTIONALLY TALENTED HAIR STYLISTS DELIVER SIX RAW AND READY LOOKS THAT ARE UNIQUE, EFFORTLESS AND FIT FOR GENERATION NOW. THIS IS EVERYDAY WEAR AND HAIR THAT COOL KIDS WANT. THE STREET’S WHERE IT’S AT…
PHOTOGRAPHY Jon Baker HAIR Joshua Goodwin, Paula McCash and Richard Phillipart for BaByliss PRO FASHION Mekel Bailey MAKE-UP Cat Partnell
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP 01_Oct cover2.indd 4
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E “STREET STYL A IS NOT ABOUT , CERTAIN LOOK VING IT’S ABOUT HA D A PURPOSE AN ” PERSONALITY
JACKET Markus Lupfer. DRESS Koché. EARRINGS Vickisarge
RICHARD PHILLIP ART
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JACKET Berthold. TOP Boo Pala (seen here) SKIRT 3.1 Phillip Lim at LAYERS LONDON. SHOES G-Star RAW. BAG Katie Ann McGuigan (seen later)
JOSHUA GOODWI N
CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
“I LOVE THAT PEOPLE ARE WEARING WHATEVER THEY WANT AND FEEL COMFORTABLE IN THEIR OWN SKIN”
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“PEOPLE ARE ACCEPTING THE NATURAL TEXTURE OF THEIR HAIR AND EMBRACING IT TO THE FULLEST”
PAULA MCCASH
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JUMPER DB Berdan. SKIRT Amy Lynn. BAG Melissa (seen here) SHOES Melissa. SOCKS Falke (seen later) CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
JACKET Paul & Joe Sister. TOP Sample-cm (seen here) JEANS MM6 by Maison Margiela at LAYERS LONDON. SHOES G-Star RAW (seen later) 01_Oct cover2.indd 9
“I REALLY LOVE THE FREEDOM PEOPLE ARE HAVING, AND THE RETURN OF THE GRUNGY ECCENTRIC”
JOSHUA GOODWIN
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JACKET DB Berdan. SHIRT Paul & Joe Sister. TROUSERS Berthold (seen here) SHOES Adidas (seen later)
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“EVERYTHING I S MOR E DISHEVELLED AND DIY. ON THE STREET ANYTHING GO E S ” P AULA MCCASH
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DRESS Boo Pala. SCARF Berthold. SHOES Melissa (seen here) EARRINGS Vickisarge (seen later)
CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
“I WANT MY IMAGES TO ENCOMPASS THE FEELING OF HAVING SOMETHING TO SAY” RICHARD PHILLIP ART
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HAI R S TO RY ONE Y G N U R G D N A L A R U T A N , E ON UNTHISDSTYLE MAY LOOK LAZY, BUT IT’S ACTUALLY HIGHLY DEFINED AND TEXTURED AND ENHANCES THE MODEL’S NATURAL HAIR WITH LOTS MORE VOLUME “I LOVE THE MARRIAGE BETW EEN SPORTSWEAR AND HIGH-END FASHION – WOMEN SEEM TO GET OUT OF BED, PUT ON THEIR FAVOURITE JEANS, THEIR MOST COMFORTABLE RUNNERS, A T-SHIRT, A NICE COAT AND THEN GARN ISH THE LOOK WITH A CHANEL HAND BAG”
KIT
BaByliss PRO Rapido Dryer BaByliss PRO Diffuser BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 38mm Curling Tong Bumble and bumble Prep Bumble and bumble Surf Spray TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen For A Day Thickening Spray
N B: “To create a natural, dry texture, I used a combination of prep products and then diffuse- dried hair upside down. To add a wave, I wrapped sections of hair around my BaByliss PRO 38mm tong – alternating in direction for a more authentic result. If you are working with very thick or straight hair, you may want to use a smaller tong and more product ”
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
“EVERYTHING IS EITHER OVERS IZED, CLASHES WIT H PATTERNS OR SHOULDN’T W ORK , B UT DO E S ”
KIT
BaByliss PRO Rapido Dry er Mason Pearson Hairbr ush Syd Pin Rose Gold
HAI R S TO RY T WO MODERN, SIMPLISTIC AND CHIC A QUICK CHANGE FROM DAY TO EVENING – HAIR’S SLEEKER BUT STILL EASY. THE SYD PIN GIVES IT A TOUCH OF ELEGANCE
N B: “To create a smooth hairline, hairdrye I used my r all arou nd the head, fo cu s direction ing the air in of the cro w n”
THE ARTIST: JOSHUA GOODWIN Josh began his career in 2005 at Daniel Galvin in London. With an ambition to work more in fashion he moved to Windle & Moodie in Covent Garden to conclude his training and gained masses of session experience, working alongside Neil Moodie. Now Josh has worked more than 25 Fashion Week seasons at high profile shows for major labels including Sibling, Julien Macdonald, Burberry and Pringle of Scotland. He has received hair credits in magazines such as Glass, Noctis, Notion, Wonderland and Cosmopolitan, while the likes of Ellie Goulding, Suki Waterhouse and Carey Mulligan are listed on his celebrity CV. Currently, Josh divides his time working in Syd Hayes’s core session team and at TINT salon in Leeds.
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“PEOPLE ARE W ORKING THE SAME HAIR STYLE FROM THE GYM T O TH E OFFICE AND T HE N ONTO THE CLU B”
HAI R S TO RY TH REE L A R U T A N , D A E H D E B , D E DISHEVELL CONTRASTING WAVY AND STRAIGHT TEXTURES
N B: “When curling you need a strong foundation – it’s all about prep! I dried thickening mousse into the hair using a diffuser, lifting at the roots to create volume and texture”
KIT
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BaByliss PRO Italia Brava Dryer BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 16mm Curling Tong BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression 13mm Curling Tong TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen For A Day Thickening Spray Kiehl’s Creme with Silk Groom 20/09/2018 11:40
CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
KIT
Mason Pearson brush Hair band Grips
N B: “I alr ea and foun d y had a good te d x brushed ation to work w it ture out the c h – so I u rl and pu into a low lled h pon two sec y tail, before tw is air tions into ti fastenin a k n ot a n n g g at the d top of th e po ny ”
“THIS KIND OF LOOK IS EVERYWHERE ON THE STREET RIGHT NOW”
HAI R STO RY FOU R SIMPLE, EFFORTLESS, RELAXED AN EASY, DIY TWIST-UP TEXTURED KNOT USING PREVIOUSLY CREATED TEXTURE AS A FOUNDATION
THE ARTIST: PAULA MCCASH Paula began her career at McIntyres in Scotland while she was still at school. Flourishing as a colourist, she went on to become the salon’s creative director. Her next move was to Alan Edwards, where she joined the artistic team and scooped the L'Oréal Colour Trophy. But London was beckoning, and with a passion for session work Paula was soon earning top spots assisting Sam McKnight and Anthony Turner and she's now Syd Hayes’ long-standing first assistant on the Fashion Week circuit. As such she has worked with high profile clients – think supermodels Kate Moss, Adriana Lima, Kendall Jenner and the Hadid sisters; photographers including Mert & Marcus and David Simms; and labels such as Schiaparelli, Vivienne Westwood and JW Anderson. Her work has been published in magazines like Flaunt, Love and Vogue. Paula is currently working as a senior stylist and technician at Salon 64 in London.
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RRENT “I WANT TO EMBODY THE CU POLITICAL AWAKENING THAT YOUNG PEOPLE HAVE HAD IN ING THE PAST FEW YEARS, LOOK AT ELEMENTS LIKE GENDER Y, NEUTRALITY, TR ANS VISIBILIT D FEMALE EMPOWERMENT AN THESE TS EC ACTIVISM AND THE EFF E” HAVE HAD ON STREET STYL
HAI R S TO RY F IV E Y R A IN B N O N D N A N A B R OL , U COPLAYING WITH ESSENCES OF MASCULINE AND FEMININE HAIR AND ATTITUDE
KIT
BaByliss PRO Rapido dryer Session Kit Super Single Curl Clip Pins Session Kit Japanese Hair Grips L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.ART Full Volume Extra Mousse Capilo Brillant Diamant Supremo Magic Move wax
n, N B: “To create a strong foundatio sse I saturated hair with volumising mou ser diffu a used then in, it d sage and mas r Afte dry. ly plete com to ensure it was nese randomly accessorising with Japa spray grips, I finished with lots of shine texture” to create the final damp-looking
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CR EATIV E HE AD PA RT NE RS HIP
HAI R STO RY SIX
ECCENTRIC, BOHEMIAN AND EMPOWERED ECHOES OF ’60S PROTEST MOVEMENTS, CLASHING WITH THE VIBE OF A MODERN, GLOBAL WOMAN
EY HOW “I WANT MY IMAGES TO CONV YLE IS A FASHION AND PERSONAL ST EXPRESS MEDIUM THROUGH WHICH TO TO BE” HOW YOU WISH THE WORLD
KIT
BaByliss PRO Rapido dryer BaByliss PRO Ceramic Crimping Iron Deep Waver BaByliss PRO Titanium Expression a Strong Hairspray L’Oréal Professionnel Infinium Extr e Texture Mist Sam McKnight Cool Girl Barely Ther
N B: “To get this full, friz zy texture, I tightly backcombed the hair then used my BaB yliss PRO Crimping Iron over the top. After brushing out , I used my Deep Waver (over the same backcomb ed sections), mak ing sure each section lined up. I used my hands to stretch out and loosen the waves, releasing the friz z and movement ”
THE ARTIST: RICHARD PHILLIPART Richard was 13 when he first took a Saturday job at his local salon. He produced his own artisan hair show aged just 16, and six years later opened The Boutique Atelier in Ellesmere Port. Now managing a staff of 25, Richard's business is hugely successful, while he – a passionate and sought-after educator and award-winning stylist in his own right – still manages to travel the world, working backstage and on set. In recent years he’s frequented Fashion Weeks in New York, London, Milan and Paris on the hair teams for Chanel, Balenciaga, Dior and Kenzo. His work has been featured in magazines such as iD and Vogue, and some of Richard’s major big-brand jobs include commercial campaigns for NARS, Balmain Paris, BaByliss PRO and Erdem.
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S O E D I V E V I S U L EXC S O T W O H R I HA
! W O N E N I L N O ToO GdO mag.c m/education
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For more information about BaByliss PRO products, visit babylisspro.co.uk 01_Oct cover2.indd 19
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CLUB club
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FOR JUST
SIGN UP NOW AND RECEIVE A BOX OF VIVISCAL PROFESSIONAL HAIR GROWTH SUPPLEMENTS, WORTH
£60*
£10 YOU’LL GET: • 10 issues of Creative HEAD magazine – and supplements including Runway, PAINT and Power Book – delivered to your door • Exclusive competitions and prizes • Free product samples from leading professional brands
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WIN a three-month supply of Viviscal Professional Hair Growth Supplements, worth £180! Already a Creative HEAD Club member? We’ve got something special for you, too! Club members have the chance to win a three-month supply of Viviscal Professional Hair Growth Supplements – the award-winning hair health supplements that nourish from within for healthier hair. To be in with a chance of winning, simply keep an eye on your inbox for your exclusive link to the competition entry form – all Creative HEAD members will receive an email on 1 October! FOR
E CREATIVUB L C D A E H MEMBERS ONLY
*For the first 25 new members to sign up between 1 October and 31 October 2018. Subject to availability and no cash equivalent will be offered.
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.com/ g a m d a e h e iv t a cre
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BaByliss PRO’s Titanium Expression range has been designed to help you create any look, whether it’s high-fashion session hair or beautifully finished salon styles. Find out more @BaBylissPROUK
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COLOUR IT. STYLE IT. OWN IT.
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03/09/2018 11:11
STYLE WITH CONFIDENCE
Introducing our new high performance styling range. A professional collection of products designed to give you the tools you need to create with confidence. From essential prep products to finishing creams and sprays, each product has been developed to protect and care for the hair, whilst giving you performance you can rely on. Whether it’s hold, definition or texture, we’ve got the product for you.
@Rusk_UK
Stay Stay inspired! inspired!
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THE ULTIMATE CUSTOMISED TREATMENTS N E W T I GI CO P Y R IGH T C AR E BO O ST ERS PE R F ECT YO UR C LIENT S’ H AIR R E PA I R . SH INE. SMO OT H
For further information on TIGI Copyright Care please contact TIGI on: 0344 844 0944 or email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com www.tigicopyright.com
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@tigicopyright
30/08/2018 16:09
Editor’s letter
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86
JOIN US!
This issue celebrates a rather punk attitude, the people and the brands who rip it up and start again. They are the Disruptors, and they are the ones generating the excitement, the noise, and arguably the customer loyalty that builds incredibly successful businesses. It’s an approach that’s helped iconic photographer Rankin make his name when breaking through in the ’90s – see how he captured our audience in an exclusive shoot event with long-time collaborator Nick Irwin (page 52). And we also shine a spotlight on the salons and creatives that go out of their way to be different – the winners of this year’s It List and Most Wanted Awards made it a night to remember under Hope the blue whale at the Natural History Museum. If you didn’t manage to grab a ticket (they sold out in fewer than five minutes!), then pour out your tipple of choice and settle in to enjoy our 72-page souvenir special, free with this issue. Yes, it might disrupt your usual routine, but that’s no bad thing. What are YOU going to do to disrupt the norm…?
Amanda Nottage Editor
amanda@alfol.co.uk
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creativeheadmag.com
creativeheadmagofficial
Most Wanted and The It List has wrapped for another year, but you can relive it all in our special magazine with this issue! Meet our winners, see our secret shoot (it took place among the dinosaurs) and peruse all the party pictures – you owned it! Extra copies are available in our web store. This month, The Coterie is Scotland-bound – mark 29 October in the diary and see page 51 for more. Coming next month… prepare to enter the world of Johanna Cree Brown at our next Featured Artist LIVE event in London on 19 November. Turn to page 31 and snap up a ticket now. Event info and tickets at creativeheadmag.com/events
@creativeheadmag
17/09/2018 15:13
October WHAT’S INSIDE 82
70
INNOVATORS
Most Wanted Award for Innovation winner Haircuts4Homeless on helping troubled lives
FASHION
Adam Reed, Paul Percival, Ellenora Dean and the Percy & Reed Art Team get playful
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SOUVENIR
CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED AND THE IT LIST AWARDS 2018, ALL WRAPPED UP!
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EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
ADVERTISING
ART DIRECTOR
CONTRIBUTOR
CLASSIFIED EXECUTIVE
DIGITAL DESIGNER
DIGITAL ASSISTANT
EVA VESTMANN
KELSEY DRING
SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER
CHIEF SUB EDITOR
ONLINE AND DIGITAL EDITOR
ADAM WOOD
ANNA SAMSON DEBORAH MURTHA
ALISON ROWLEY
LAURA TUCKER DAVID HAMMOND JENNY BROOKS
SPECIAL PROJECTS DIRECTOR JOANNA ANDERSEN
PUBLISHER
CATHERINE HANDCOCK
creativeheadmag.com
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MW IT 18
A/W18
Interrupting the status quo can win you loyalty
NICK JABBAL
Hair by Joshua Goodwin, Paula McCash and Richard Phillipart for BaByliss PRO. Fashion by Mekel Bailey. Make-up by Cat Partnell. Photography by Jon Baker
FREE WITH THIS ISSUE DISRUPTORS
AMANDA NOTTAGE
ON THE COVER
creativeheadmagofficial
Creative HEAD is printed on paper certified as being from sustainable sources using only vegetable-based inks. Printed by Buxton Press, Environmental Printer of the Year and Printing Company of the Year. WRITE TO US AT: Creative HEAD, 21 The Timberyard, Drysdale Street, London, N1 6ND 020 7324 7540 enquiries@alfol.co.uk
Creative HEAD is published 10 times a year by Alfol Ltd. Creative HEAD is a registered trademark. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without prior permission of the publisher. All information correct at time of going to press. Printing by Buxton Press
@creativeheadmag
20/09/2018 14:53
FROM DINNER BENEATH Hope the blue whale to partying in Fossil Way, London’s Natural History Museum was the ideal location for hairdressers to raise trophies and make history at the 2018 Most Wanted and The It List Grand Final. It was a family affair for Sophia Hilton (who took home the Colour Expert and Business Thinker Most Wanted Awards) as her husband joined her onstage and her cousin, Grace Dalgleish, won the It List It Girl and Visionary titles. Jas Hair was crowned Best Local Salon Legend thanks to its three previous wins. Fashion Week regular Syd Hayes picked up the Session Stylist trophy and Eugene Souleiman was announced as 2018’s Hair Icon. Of course, we had a whale of a time! SOUVENIR See all the action from the night in the Most Wanted Souvenir supplement, free with this issue
MW IT 18
Alexa Chung
House of Holland
Preen
Victoria Beckham
Mary Katrantzou
MAKING HISTORY
Preen
From left: Sophia Hilton, Grace Dalgleish and Katherine Ryan
THE NEWS AND KNOW-HOW FROM YOUR INDUSTRY
Fashion Week images courtesy of BaByliss PRO, ghd, L’Oréal Professionnel, Redken, Revlon Professional, Wella Professionals
The edit
The LFW lowdown
THE FASHION WEEK circus resumed in London for S/S19, and Creative HEAD was there to see the trends as they were born. Most Wanted Hair Icon Eugene Souleiman for ghd and Wella Professionals styled a soft cobweb texture of beautiful imperfection at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, while Most Wanted Session Stylist Syd Hayes created a ‘fresh out of the pool’ style at House of Holland with BaByliss PRO. Alexa Chung’s LFW debut saw Bleach’s Alex Brownsell for L’Oréal Professionnel drying cowlicks and dents into models’ fuzzy hair with a Dyson, as if they had napped in the departure lounge. Modern-day nomads at JW Anderson wore hair loose and wavy, topped off with headbands courtesy of Anthony Turner for Dyson hair. Ben Muller led the Headmasters team at Emilia Wickstead, creating prim and proper ponytails topped off with a bow. A rare treat at LFW, Guido slicked it back with Redken at Victoria Beckham’s first London show, while James Pecis used KMS at Simone Rocha to create ‘Sunday best’ hair with a tomboy edge. Maria Kovacs for TIGI inflated hair at Mark Fast to create a massive silhouette worthy of a desert goddess. And to celebrate a decade of Mary Katrantzou prints, John Vial for Revlon Professional created multi-textured hair on 40 models.
AND CREATIVE HEAD’S MOST WANTED WRAPPED UP! THE IT LIST AWARDS 2018, ALL
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Schwarzkopf Professional has launched its first ever pigmented dry shampoo. OSiS+ Boho Rebel is perfect for refreshing styles and adding extra guts to up-dos, without white residue. Available in three colours, it comes in a full size and travel size, for styling on the go. RRP £13.15 CREATIVE HEAD
19/09/2018 15:14
#CHedit MY month
AHEAD
What October has in store for... MALCOLM MURPHY
MALCOLM MURPHY HAIR
WELLA SCOUTS YOUNG TALENT
Meet the eighth Wella Generation Now Team – five rising stars gearing up to make their mark on the industry. The hand-picked hairdressers are, pictured above from left, Roisin Hynes from Sarah Mason Professional, Rita Tuska from Joseph Ferraro, Richard Potts from Rage, Elizabeth Williams from KH Hair and Natasha Cameron from McIntyres. The team will undertake an 18-month programme beginning with an intensive boot camp, where they’ll be mentored by industry greats, learn about presentation work, media relations and products, before embarking on a schedule of events including the Wella TrendVision Award UK & Ireland final this month at London’s Roundhouse.
£19,000
The record amount raised by Shaping Futures this year, Schwarzkopf Professional’s initiative to help young people in developing countries.
ROYAL RECOGNITION FOR ANDREW COLLINGE GRADUATE TRAINING
Party time CREATIVE HEAD HOSTED its second ever Fash Bash, sponsored by BaByliss PRO, at Graphic in London’s Soho. Session stylists such as Syd Hayes, Richard Phillipart and Johanna Cree Brown (pictured) came to enjoy a cocktail or two during London Fashion Week. We’ll raise a glass to that!
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ANDREW COLLINGE GRADUATES Hairdressing has been commended by the 2018 Princess Royal Training Awards. The awards are delivered by the City & Guilds group and given to businesses who provide outstanding training and development programmes that result in commercial success. Salon owner Andrew Collinge, said: “More than 30 years ago my parents gave newly qualified stylists a standalone salon to further develop their skills before returning back to their original salon. Since then hundreds of our young employees have benefitted from working in the Graduates salons and are now our managers, stylists and tutors.”
Our senior stylist Darren will be completing a Great Lengths course which means we’ll have another qualified hair extensions stylist in our salon. We also have Ky Wilson coming to teach us tricks of the trade. And artistic director Natalia is joining Adam Reed’s team on The X Factor.
HEFFY WHEELER HX HAIR
October at HX Hair will be a month dedicated to training and sharing. Colour is our main focus and we want to keep evolving and improving our techniques to keep up with trends. We will share our work and our skills with the community, as we want to keep building our profile and get in contact with other experts.
MOVERS AND SHAKERS Antony Strianese has been announced as the new managing director for ghd in the UK and Ireland. Meanwhile, Kao Salon Division has promoted Mark Giannandrea to the role of vice-president of salon commercial for Europe, the Middle East and Africa. Brands in the portfolio include Goldwell, KMS and Oribe. At milk_shake, Andrew Smith of Andrew Smith salon group has been announced as a brand ambassador, and Zoë Irwin has been named brand ambassador for the Manta brush.
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Clever product alert! Hold.ME Three Ways allows you to choose your desired level of hold. Select light, medium or strong control, simply by twisting the dial. Genius!
SALON PRICE £8.99 0330 1231907
There’s so much new to coo over from RUSK – check out the Lusteriser for a shiny finish that will dazzle to the max. Let’s get personal with BC Fibre Clinix from Schwarzkopf Professional. Prep hair with the Tribond shampoo and treatment for improved resilience, then choose from a selection of boosters for skincare-inspired customisation.
IN-SALON TREATMENT 01442 278000 schwarzkopf-professional.com
salon-services.com
The new Redken Color Extend Graydiant shampoo and conditioner is here to neutralise those unwanted yellow undertones to give clients a sumptuous silver payoff and stronger, brighter hair, whether it’s for mums or millennials.
RRP FROM £15.50 0800 0854956
Irresistible products consumers will want to snap up, selected by the Layered team
The Structure range by JOICO is relaunching and boy, are we excited! This collection is all about embracing clients’ individual looks and making them into the best version of themselves. It’s unisex too, so no matter what haircut they have, they can use JOICO Structure products to celebrate who they are. The new packaging is bright and sleek, housing products that multi-task and can be reworked all day to keep styles looking fresh. This collection truly pushes the limits of styling possibilities. RRP FROM £14.90 0845 0712326 structurebyjoico.com
redken.co.uk
SALON PRICE £7.49 0330 1231907 salon-services.com
The Aveda Cherry Almond Softening shampoo and conditioner are 98 per cent naturally derived, siliconefree and vegan formulas which leave hair supersoft, bouncy and smelling so good.
RRP FROM £15.50 0800 054 2979 aveda.co.uk
Showcased at London Fashion Week by session star Anthony Turner, L’Oréal Professionnel’s hypoallergenic Infinium Pure has been formulated without fragrance or masking scents. Sweet!
RRP £11.65
0800 0304034
lorealprofessionnel.co.uk
Say hello to two new launches in the Kérastase Aura Botanica range – the waterless balm for hair and body Baume Miracle, and Masque Fondamental Riche for dry, sensitive hair.
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Wet Brush has stepped up its Epic Professional range’s game with three new tools. We love the spiralling design of the Helix Graphite collection.
RRP FROM £34 0845 6000122
RRP FROM £39.99 0800 0988040
kerastase.co.uk
prowetbrush.com
Dare to dairy – milk_shake’s Active Milk Mask and Active Yoghurt Mask have been shaken up with new ingredients such as avocado, rice oil, honey and vitamin E to condition the hair shaft. Delicious!
RRP FROM £17.99 01392 365177 milkshakehaircare.co.uk
CREATIVE HEAD
17/09/2018 09:33
#CHedit
STOCK OPTIONS
OUR PICK OF THE LAUNCHES TO STACK ON SHELVES, ADD TO MENUS AND SHARE WITH YOUR STYLISTS
LAUNCH OF THE MONTH
Loaded with Instagramworthy imagery, packaging, ingredients and attitude, the sassy makeover of Brooklyn-born Amika is social perfection. Available exclusively from Alan Howard, the line-up is impressively wide (give us haute mess texture gloss STAT!), but it’s the messaging that we think clients will tap into, especially your millennial audience. Amika is for ‘experimentation over perfection’, ‘individuality over conformity’ and ‘hair before clothes’. This is all about editorial and runway hair, yes, but with a decidedly fun and wearable approach. Style-savvy clients will want to join the #hairrebellion, too.
RRP FROM £14 0845 345 8535 alanhoward.co.uk
IT’S ALL ABOUT... CHRISTMAS GIFT SETS Trust ghd to offer the perfect gift collection with an array of luxe sets, including a limited edition Glacial Blue collection, inspired by NYC Fashion Week trends.
RRP FROM £99 01924 423400 ghdhair.com
CREATIVE HEAD
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Frankincense and myrrh are all well and good, but give us the gift of rose gold any day. These new limited edition gift sets from Cloud Nine are suitably shiny and covetable.
RRP FROM £125 0845 0267121 cloudninehair.com
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R U YO ITH T S SW O BO INES S BU
KENNADYS (INGATESTONE, ESSEX) LAUNCHED SMARTBOND, THE REVOLUTIONARY BONDING AGENT FROM L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, IN AUGUST 2016 AND HAS SINCE CARRIED OUT OVER 1,500 APPLICATIONS! HAVING SMARTBOND IN THE SALON HAS ENABLED THE TEAM TO PERFORM COLOUR SERVICES THAT IN THE PAST WOULD NOT HAVE BEEN POSSIBLE. “BEFORE SMARTBOND, IF WE BELIEVED A SERVICE WOULD CAUSE DAMAGE TO A CLIENT’S HAIR, WE WOULD STRONGLY ADVISE AGAINST IT,” SAYS KEN EASTWOOD, OWNER OF KENNADYS. HE SHARES HIS TOP TIPS ON HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF SMARTBOND IN THE SALON…
1 Describe to your client what Smartbond can do for them, that it will protect the hair. Clients care about condition, and hearing about how potential damage from a chemical process can be avoided is always the best way to sell Smartbond. 2 Introduce Smartbond to your clients early on. When a client first books their appointment and you provide a quote, explain to them the cost with and without a Smartbond treatment, and begin to discuss the benefits. This will require your reception team to be well versed in what Smartbond is and what it can do. Mentioning the product early on means that a client is less likely to feel blindsided in the consultation.
3 Class Smartbond as a service and use it as an income incentive for your team. With services having a higher rate of commission than
retail, stylists are able to make more per sale. This further motivates the team to recommend Smartbond as much as possible to clients.
THE FIX
Check out this cool colour transformation from @zarajane1985 at Umberto Giannini (@umbertogiannini) in Worcester, using Instant Highlights from L’Oréal Professionnel. To recreate the result in the salon, simply follow these steps: STEP 1: Section the hair from the crown to behind the ear. Take diagonal sections and lighten with up to 15 meches using new Instant Highlights STEP 2: Rinse and tone alternating between DIA Light 7.12 and 9.12 with 9Vol STEP 3: Use Smartbond throughout Don’t forget to share your own transformations using @lorealpro #instanthighlights #Smartbond #lorealprouk
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RETAIL REHAB
Keep it cool with L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Blondifier – a bespoke colour care solution to revive blonde hair. Enriched with acai polyphenols, an antioxidant found in the acai berry extract, Serie Expert Blondifier is perfect for any blonde who wants fresh colour, shine and radiance.
CREATIVE HEAD
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
a e B
COLOUR ADDICT EMBRACE THE COOL LOOK
IT’S OFFICIAL: summer is over. As we move away from the warmer months into autumn, clients will be looking for cooler colour results. Not only are consumers actively searching online for cooler ash blonde hair, but cooler colours work well with both warm and cooler skin tones. So now is the perfect opportunity to keep it cool. There are two different clients who are just the fit for these cool colour services: •The Blonde – she’s already a platinum blonde but she wants to keep it cool. • The Caramel Highlighter – she wants to tone it down for a cooler, tonal blend. And this is where the new shades in Majirel and DIA Light from L’Oréal Professionnel come in. The new Majirel range has a high resist technology for a truer-totone result to combat any brassiness. And, the three new DIA Light Milkshake shades are great additions to the ever growing toning palette. And don’t forget the signature ‘Colour Me French’ technique – the perfect way to achieve the cool multitonal blend you need. The technique combines two complementary shades to give extra depth and dimension to the hair – a great match for every complexion.
KEEP IT COOL
• Keep your colour cupboards fully stocked with the complete cool palette of shades and offer a cool colour service package to your clients to help create the buzz. • Sign up to L’Oréal Professionnel’s Access education platform (lorealaccess.com/uk) for how-to videos on using the unique Colour Me French technique for the ultimate cool colour results. • Consultation is key – choose the right shade and technique to best suit your client’s complexion.
Get further addicted to colour with L’Oréal Professionnel – call 0800 0304034 or visit lorealprofessionnel.co.uk CREATIVE HEAD
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WHY DID YOU WANT TO BE A HAIRDRESSER? To emphasise my creative abilities; I felt this was the perfect job to truly show my artistic flair. I also love to socialise and it’s an incredible industry to network in, there are lots of open-minded people.
ISAAC VERRALL AGE: 23 SALON: PERCY & REED
WHAT HAVE BEEN YOUR HIGHLIGHTS SO FAR? I have experienced many amazing things on my journey so far, including assisting Adam Reed on shoots and shows, being a part of the ghd style squad working with Zoë Irwin, working on ITV’s This Morning with Paul Percival, and being on The X Factor and Britain’s Got Talent with the Percy & Reed team. But my latest highlight was finalising for The It List Rising Star Award. WHERE DO YOU SEE YOURSELF IN 10 YEARS’ TIME? I would like to see my achievements stack up to running my own shows, assisting some of my muses in the industry, such as Duffy, Eugene Souleiman and Sam McKnight. I want to be someone people look to for inspiration and I’ll do all in my power to help raise new stars.
WHAT WOULD BE YOUR DREAM HAIRDRESSING GIG? If I’m really honest I would love to travel around the world styling some of my favourite musicians, such as Jamiroquai and the Arctic Monkeys! Wherever life takes me, as long as I’m learning, inspiring and creating beautiful hair, then I’m already living my dream! I’m lucky to be where I am at this stage of my career, and I feel pumped and ready to embrace my future.
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19/09/2018 15:17
MAKE YOUR HAIR GROWTH THE LEAST OF YOUR WORRIES
You have over 100,000 hairs growing at any time... ...a healthy head of hair should therefore be a handful
60% of women in the UK experience hair growth disruptions leading to thin and wispy hair. Salon Formula Hair Growth+ by NourkrinÂŽ is a scientifically researched hair growth food supplement developed to help support the normal healthy hair growth.
AVAILABLE AT:
#CHedit
Inside story TREVOR SORBIE BRISTOL As you saunter through Bristol’s Clifton Triangle, you may not initially realise the building housing Trevor Sorbie Bristol is a hair salon. With its clean, contemporary and welcoming entrance and a fully functioning bar, complete with stools set at the front of the salon, you could easily mistake it for a super-chic bar. But look beyond the Scandi-inspired furniture, living plant wall and floods of natural light, and you spot the styling stations and backwashes. The design of the salon pays homage to the city’s past as an economic hub, using reclaimed wood, brick work and raw materials. In order to really embrace and become a part of the local community, the salon is also collaborating with local businesses. The walls of the courtyard have been left white in preparation for local artists to decorate them with their own artwork, and the bar serves gin from a local micro-distillery. The vibe is celebrating personal artistry both in and out of the salon – we’ll raise a gin and tonic to that!
HOT BUYS
now open
ON SONG
Look around some of the more esoteric new salons on the UK’s high streets, and you’ll spot furniture that helps clients feel like they’re relaxing in a home from home. Take a look at Melody Maison for inspiration – we adore its mix of shabby chic and elegant mirrors for a different reflection.
01303 741000 melodymaison.co.uk
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BULLER & RICE LONDON
Anita Rice, the co-founder of Ralph & Rice, has unveiled a new salon using sustainable materials including Smile Plastic, which is made from recycled yoghurt pots.
CREATIVE HEAD
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THE BUSINESS EDIT
HOW CAN SALONS OFFER MENTAL HEALTH SUPPORT? ACCORDING TO RESEARCH from mental health charity Mind, one in four people in the UK will experience a mental health problem this year. This means a significant number of people walking through your doors will be dealing with a mental health issue. And hairdressing professionals are in a unique position to help with this; a survey commissioned by the Lions Barber Collective and The Bluebeards Revenge revealed that more than half of the men in Britain now feel more comfortable discussing sensitive issues with their hairdresser than they do with a doctor. Because of this, more salons than ever are taking the time to learn about mental health and provide a better experience for clients. Lions Barber Collective founder Tom Chapman is focused on turning barber shops into safe spaces for men, using the opportunity of a regular haircut to start conversations about mental health. The group is having an enormous impact with men who traditional mental health services struggle to reach. “The aim is not to turn barbers into counsellors – rather we hope to give them the confidence to become a bridge between people and organisations,” he says. Q Hair and Beauty is the first firm in Chichester to become registered as a dementia-friendly business. “Every member
of Team Q is conscious of how important it is to be caring towards others, both colleagues and guests,” says director Dawn Lawrence. Vincent Bell Hairdressing in Edinburgh has embarked on a mental health campaign called In It Together. There are quiet areas for appointments that need to be taken at the client’s own pace, and the salon has been working with a life coach to learn how best to speak to clients that struggle with mental health concerns. At Headmasters, a Mental Health First Aid initiative has been launched to support staff. “If people feel healthy and positive at work they will naturally be happier and more productive,” explains Headmasters chief executive, Raju Raymond. “We have trained our managers to identify and support individual team members so they don’t feel isolated and alone.” Janet Maitland, owner of Janet Maitland Hair Excellence salons in County Durham, provides training to promote wellbeing in the salon, and there’s access to a free telephone counselling service. “We have great levels of staff retention and I like to think it’s because they feel supported with initiatives like this.” It’s a simple idea – look after your team and they’ll look after your business.
I have started an initiative in the salon called #cutoutthestigma. It started with me qualifying as a Mental Health First Aider and using new techniques to train our team in awareness and advanced listening skills. I’m working closely with one of our town councillors to promote this locally. We recently held an event for people in the hair and beauty industries to teach them how to understand mental health issues, deal with difficult situations and support staff and colleagues. We believe it could help to start a real change in the hair industry. CREATIVE HEAD
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THE SECRET TO… THE FRONT DESK
Running a salon is so important. Every day you’re tasked with helping people look and feel their best. Which is why MINDBODY suggests starting with the first point of contact, the place you work to perfect every day – the front desk. Here are the salon software expert’s top tips for a clean and functional front desk.
THE RIGHT POINT OF SALE (POS) SYSTEM: Payments are the crux of
your business. But it can be made difficult if you’re reaching between multiple devices – to swipe a card, take payment for a tip and print a receipt, all the while giving the client a smile and a fond farewell. It’s worth considering an all-in-one solution such as the Poynt Smart Terminal. The dual screen gives the customer their own interface and accepts chip and magstripe cards, and scans barcodes at checkout as well as reducing clutter at the reception desk. Poynt even prints receipts – phew!
A CALMING RETAIL AREA: Transitioning in and out of a salon can be jarring. The best way to invite clients to unwind is by offering a drink, a place to sit and relax with a fully stocked retail area. A WARM MEET AND GREET: However, none of the above matters if the person greeting them isn’t a reflection of the best version of your brand. The better they are, the more likely clients will come back… and maybe even tell their friends! IN ASSOCIATION WITH
For more salon-savvy secrets by MINDBODY, visit uk.mindbodyonline.com 27
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#BusinessEdit
LIFE LESSONS
KEN’S CLINIC GOT A BUSINESS HEADACHE?
LET KEN WEST, DIRECTOR OF BUSINESS EXPERTS 3•6•5, OFFER A PERSONAL PRESCRIPTION
How do we deal with splitting our time between clients and management?”
DAVID HYDE DAVID ANTONY HAIRDRESSING
Life is short, go for it! People put stuff off, waiting until they are at the right point in their life, but you never know when your time is up – so go for it, NOW!
Set goals. I wanted my own salon by the age of 21 and achieved it with two months to spare. I certainly didn’t know it all, it wasn’t the ideal time and I was far from comfortable but to move on in life we have to come out of our comfort zone sometimes. Trust people… until they show you that you can’t trust them! We are often let down by the most trusted people and loved by the most unexpected ones!
‘Don’t die before you are dead’. I love quotes and my family laugh about them but there’s always a quote to mull over and help you through the day. ‘Never sacrifice your family, your heart or your dignity.’ ‘Collect moments, not things.’ My current favourite? ‘There are two things that always speak the truth – children and cheap leggings!’
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JENNIFER LINTON AND JOANNA MACDONALD, LINTON & MAC
KEN’S DIAGNOSIS
The first thing to understand is whether you have a job or a business. If you have a job then you spend all of your time cutting hair and putting money into the till. You probably generate the most money in the salon but often pay yourself less than you pay your team. If you have a business then that should produce money for you when you are not cutting hair and this is when you can work on the business and not in the business. There is rarely a time when you switch from job to business overnight, but understanding you will never achieve success without management skills is vital. Salons rarely fail because of poor hairdressing, but many fail because of poor management. The next thing to understand is there are three clear management functions. Administration, business development and team development. All three are vital. Most salon owners spend too much time on the admin of their business because they don’t have the correct systems in place. The ‘paperwork’ of a salon should be reasonably simple and consume very little time. A computerised bookkeeping system, updated weekly, should take no more than an hour or so and will save time for you and your accountants in the long run. It is likely that HMRC will make this mandatory eventually so get on board early.
Many salon owners believe an hour spent cutting hair is more important than an hour spent promoting their business. This is short-term thinking and unless you spend time developing ideas and opportunities, others will take them and you will miss out. And finally, failing to focus on team development and creating a career path with long-term opportunities, is the major reason why salons lose team members. This should be a key priority of management. Regular one-to-ones where performance is reviewed, aims, ambitions and longterm goals are established and set, should be diarised and prioritised over anything else. Often these are overlooked or moved in the misguided belief that the needs of a customer for a haircut are more important. Nothing is more important than your team. Without them you won’t be able to serve clients anyway! Early in the life of a salon all of this can seem overwhelming but, as you grow, self-discipline, time management and prioritising what is best for business is vital. Slowly move from ‘working in’ to ‘working on’ and then cutting hair becomes a choice not a necessity, a pleasure not a chore!
DO YOU HAVE A BUSINESS HEADACHE YOU’D LIKE KEN TO HELP WITH?
Email KenW@365Hair.com or tweet @creativeheadmag CREATIVE HEAD
20/09/2018 15:50
#BusinessEdit
BUSINESS BUILDER Party season is almost upon us – can you believe it? While your top priority should be giving your clients a sparkling service, don’t forget to maximise on the retail opportunities. Start thinking about stocking up on gift sets and seasonal add-ons now...
Recommend the products you’ve used on a client’s hair or those designed to maintain their style after a treatment, as well as items they can give as presents like the Design. ME Volume Set (£15 exc. VAT).
TEACH ME!
ASK ME ANYTHING Looking to review and update your colouring techniques for the new season? Sally Salon Services’ Essential Colour Skills Refresher course (£76 exc. VAT) will give you full understanding of foundation and core colouring principles and the skills required to relate these to your practical work.
THE SERVICE STATION Innovative launches, expert advice and business boosting ideas – drop in and feel the buzz!
*Offer excludes mix-and-match between brands
ON RIGHT NOW WELL-GROOMED Throughout October, Salon Services customers — both online and in store — will receive a free Krups coffee machine when they spend £150 on one of a number of brands,* including: L’Oréal Professionnel, Wella Professionals, MyDentity, Kenra Professional, Proxelli, Schwarzkopf Professional, XP and Maria Nila. We think you’ll get a buzz from that…
BUYS FOR THE BOYS AT
Clients should feel supported and comfortable throughout their visit, allowing them to relax while in your stylist’s expert hands. Featuring hydraulic height adjustment, a reclining backrest and rising foot and leg supports, Salon Services’ Hampstead Barber’s Chair (£499 exc. VAT) is perfect for any barber shop.
THERE ARE EXPERTS INSIDE EVERY BRANCH OF SALON SERVICES WITH KNOWLEDGE TO SHARE, SO JUST ASK!
Jo Martin, marketing director at Sally Europe Q: How can I stay on top of fluctuating trends, and what’s hot for A/W18? A: Trends appear and disappear more quickly than ever, so it’s important to stay on top of the new skills and techniques in the industry and offer trendconscious customers the latest looks. An easy way to do this is by investing in training courses for your staff; after all, comprehensive education is essential for delivering the variety of styles today’s customer expects. At Salon Services, we love the yellow hair trend for A/W18 and expect it to gather a greater following over the coming months, especially with influential celebrities like Kim Kardashian sporting neon yellow lengths. Pink hair is also more popular than ever among all ages and we don’t expect this to change any time soon!
FOR ADVICE ON HOW TO BUILD YOUR BUSINESS, CALL 0330 1231907 OR VISIT SALON-SERVICES.COM CREATIVE HEAD
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n target
Methodology: survey conducted by Independent Survey Solutions in a poll of 50 salons employing four or more staff and spread geographically across the UK
Your targeted toolbox to help build your salon business bigger and better, in association with Salon iQ and the Creative HEAD Reader Panel
OUTSIDE OF THE BOX
For British consumers, there’s significantly more interest in hair colour than dramatic cuts right now, much of which is thanks to the constant stream of transformations seen on Instagram – from celebrities, from salons’ own feeds and from consumers’ friends and family. “Celebrity is a bigger influence than catwalk for my clients. Let’s face it, whatever Kim Kardashian does, we all do!” says Anne Pileggi at Hairworks. At The Retreat, Beverley Bates uses catwalk images for inspiration, guiding clients through the trends, “taking elements and tailoring a design bespoke to them”. The opportunity here, whatever the influence, is to use colour to deliver a personal service and finish that no box colour can provide.
83%
OF SALONS OFFER A BONDING TREATMENT
94%
OF SALON OWNERS BELIEVE CELEBRITY TRENDS HAVE A BIGGER IMPACT THAN CATWALK TRENDS ARE COLOUR CLIENTS MORE LIKELY TO HAVE BACKWASH TREATMENTS?
*SaloniQ figures for August 2018
59% YES
7%
51%
Business in August compared with July?
AVERAGE CLIENT SPEND (EX. VAT)
£47.72
DECLINING 8%
NEW CLIENTS ACCOUNT FOR
16% OF VISITS
STABLE 50%
(August 2018)
“For first-time colour clients a bonding treatment is optional, but once they have it, they want it every time. We encourage everyone to have one, especially for big colour changes, it’s a must!”
GROWING 42%
Business in August compared with August last year? DECLINING 16% STABLE 17%
GROWING 67%
IZAAK BRADING, MOD SALONS
SNAPSHOT The highest average of clients having colour alongside a cut is
ARE YOU ON TARGET?
AVERAGE RETAIL TURNOVER
46%
LET’S LOOK AT COLOUR BUSINESS...
The average amount of salon business attributed to colour work
29%
Average number of colour clients who also opt for a treatment
WANT SALON IQ TO HELP YOU STAY ON TARGET? CALL 01892 280123 OR VISIT SALONIQ.COM 30
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CREATIVE HEAD
19/09/2018 14:40
FEATURED ARTISTlive!
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#BusinessEdit
PROTECT CLIENTS FROM ‘HAIR SALON STROKE SYNDROME’ ALTHOUGH EXTREMELY RARE, salons should protect their clients against ‘hair salon stroke syndrome’ (also known as beauty parlour syndrome), says Hilary Hall, NHF chief executive. Hair salon stroke syndrome can occur when the head is tilted too far back during hair washing restricting blood to the brain. “Because it’s difficult to know who may be most at risk, it’s best practice to take steps to protect all your clients as far as possible,” says Hilary. Don’t take too long over backwashing and avoid too many repeat washes. Use a cushion or neck pad and offer front-facing washing if it’s more comfortable for your client. “If you suspect your client may be suffering a stroke dial 999 immediately,” advises Hilary. “And check your insurance covers you in the unlikely event of a claim.”
OUTCRY AS APPRENTICE FUNDING IS CUT
One in 12 missing leave entitlement
MORE EVIDENCE NEEDED
MORE THAN TWO MILLION UK workers are missing out on their annual leave entitlement, according to research by the Trades Union Congress (TUC), with more than a million workers not getting any paid leave at all. “It’s vital for salons to understand employment law,” says NHF chief executive, Hilary Hall. “This includes annual leave regulations which say most employees are entitled to 5.6 weeks of paid leave.” Because salon teams often work irregular and part-time hours, it can be tricky to calculate annual leave accurately. Hilary adds: “This is reflected in the fact that the NHF receives hundreds of calls a year from members who need expert help to work out their employees’ annual entitlement.”
“We are only 13 months into the new standard and the end point assessment (EPA) outcomes for learners are as yet untested. The hair professional standard was approved for three years and should be left as it is in terms of the structure/ delivery costs until there is more empirical evidence to support a review based on costs and outcomes, including first-time pass rates for the EPA.”
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THE SURPRISE ANNOUNCEMENT that apprenticeship funding is to be cut by more than 20 per cent from £9,000 to £7,000 has caused outcry in the industry. The Institute for Apprenticeships rejected recommendations from the trailblazer steering group for an increase in funding to cover the additional costs of delivering the new qualification. The reduction is now likely to be confirmed by the Secretary of State for Education as a formality. There will then be two months’ notice before it takes effect for new starters. “I am totally shocked by this decision,” said Wendy Cummins, chair of the hair professional steering group and owner of Quiffys in Eastleigh, Hampshire. “The government’s aim was to have a flagship apprenticeship programme which cannot be achieved if there is insufficient funding. “The hair professional standards took two years for employers to develop, with constant policy changes that were both frustrating and time-consuming. Just as the industry is adopting the new style standards, this blow falls.”
“The hair professional standard was only approved for delivery in May 2017,” said Trevor Luker, Association of Employment and Learning Providers sector lead, training provider and steering group member.
NHF reveals Business Awards finalists THE 2018 NHF Business Awards finalists have now been revealed online at nhf.info/ nhfbusinessawards. Competition for a place in the final was fierce with judges having to choose between UK-wide entries of an extremely high calibre. The overall winners in eight separate categories will be announced at a glamorous awards event to be held in November at the Hilton Manchester Deansgate. The NHF Awards have quickly become a key industry event celebrating and rewarding the best in the business.
CREATIVE HEAD
17/09/2018 09:54
BACK TO BASICS OWN SALON? IN ALL THE EXCITEMENT ARE YOU THINKING OF OPENING YOUR ADVISES THE NHF AND BUZZ, DON’T FORGET THE BASICS,
THE DEVIL IS in the detail and this couldn’t be more true for a salon hoping to become a successful business. You know you can do great hair, but to truly make your salon great, you’ve got to know the basics. “There’s a lot to think about,” says NHF chief executive, Hilary Hall. “From finding premises and financing your start-up to registering with HMRC and dealing with tax and insurance.”
YOUR BUSINESS PLAN
“Your business plan should set out your goals and how you intend to achieve them, including how you will overcome potential problems,” advises Hilary. “You must include, for example, how your start-up and ongoing costs will be covered, how you will attract regular clients, where you’ll be based, your pricing strategy and how you will cope with the competition,” says Hilary.
GROW YOUR BUSINESS
“Marketing is key to growing your business, so take time out to develop a strong social media presence,” says Hilary. “Facebook, Twitter and Instagram are good places to start, and YouTube can be great to showcase your business.” Visit nhf.info/social-media for more ideas and advice.
SELF-EMPLOYED OPTION
CASH FLOW CONFIDENCE
Don’t ignore the ‘boring bits’. “Controlling cash flow is the most important issue for any business,” says Hilary, who advises visiting nhf.info/cashflow for more information.
BECOMING AN EMPLOYER
employment law,” says Hilary. “For example, you must pay the National Minimum Wage or correct apprenticeship rate and ensure the health and safety of your staff.” The NHF provides free employment contracts and apprenticeship agreements, in-depth guides, a free 24/7 helpline for employment issues and comprehensive health and safety packs. Find out more at nhf.info/benefits.
As your business starts to grow, you may want to take on an employee or apprentice. “It’s vital to understand and comply with
If you want to run your own business but aren’t yet ready to open your own salon, chair renting could be for you. “There are pros and cons,” says Hilary. “Being your own boss may suit you, but make sure you understand everything that’s involved. For example, you will have to sort out your own tax and insurance and will not get holiday pay or sick pay.” NHF Members can download free chair renting agreements at nhf.info/agreements.
To find out more, call 01234 831965 or visit nhf.info CREATIVE HEAD
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SUPPORT FOR YOUR NEW BUSINESS
Download the NHF’s free guide to starting a business at nhf.info/business-startup-guide. The NHF can help you every step of the way with a range of business support services. For less than 75p a day, member benefits include: • Free 24/7 legal helpline. • Membership helpline for everyday business advice. • Free employment and chair renting contracts. • Free health and safety advice. • Valuable discounts on industry-specific insurance.
JOIN THE NHF BEFORE THE END OF OCTOBER 2018 AND QUOTE CHO25 TO GET £25 OFF YOUR MEMBERSHIP FEE! 33
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18/09/2018 13:24
THE BIG IDEA
Luke Hersheson
GREAT HAIR DAYS & HOW TO HAVE THEM BY LUKE HERSHESON “My life in hair can be divided into two distinct eras: BH and AH – Before Hershesons and After Hershesons…” That’s one heck of an introduction from adored beauty editor Sali Hughes to Luke Hersheson’s new book, Great Hair Days & How to Have Them, but she has a valid point. There has been something defiantly modern, fresh and utterly wearable about the hair that the Hersheons brand creates, and it makes total sense that Luke has been trusted to deliver a hair handbook for today’s stylish woman. “There’s so much information out there, that it felt like the right time to distil it down to something tangible. And books are feeling special again now,” Luke explains. “We know that hair can really make your day or ruin it, that’s the power of hair. There are loads of tutorials on YouTube, but there’s very little out there about hair that talks to the fashion-conscious woman… “It’s also about empowering women to feel that they can handle their hair better,” he continues. “I get quite annoyed that a lot of product companies make women’s lives harder, with all the jargon and spin about products, over-promising and underdelivering. Let’s cut the crap, you don’t need a million products. If a hairdresser is confused, what about clients?” But with this book to hand, women will have the answers to what they need, such as nailing cool occasion hair or how to find the right hair colour (and colourist). And that’s all set against a backdrop of fresh, diverse and beautiful hair photography with a pinch of attitude that won’t be out-of-date in six months. It’s all housed in a satisfyingly chunky, but not unwieldy, hardback book that will make a perfect stocking filler, too. Oh, and there’s a forward from one Victoria Beckham, recalling the “differences of opinion” her and Luke have enjoyed along the years – but that’s also what’s so refreshing about their dynamic. “Through each process, I have learned a little bit more about what I do and don’t like for my hair,” she writes. It beautifully sums up the lesson Luke hopes that hairdressers will take from the book – to have (and share) an opinion on your client’s hair when they’re in your chair. “I’m very closed about people I work with, I’m not one of these stylists who’s got to get a selfie,” he explains. “But this foreword SEE an amazing moment, totally out of the blue. MORE FROM ON ES LUKE HERSHLY AT She was the cherry on top.” EXCLUSIVE art 2019! Great Hair Days & How to Have Them is published by Ebury Press, RRP £20
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17/09/2018 10:00
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
WHAT ABOUT ?
TIME TO GET SELFISH. THE NEW KOLESTON PERFECT WITH ME+ BY WELLA PROFESSIONALS LETS YOU CREATE THE COLOUR THAT YOU WANT – WITHOUT THE USUAL NEGATIVES WEIGHING UP THE potential for colour against the potential for damage is a daily problem for many stylists – not to mention the risk of allergic reactions. It’s an accepted scenario… but what if it didn’t have to be? New Koleston Perfect with ME+ contains an innovative formula that shakes up the conventions of hair colourants. The combination of two patented technological breakthroughs allows for vibrant, rich colour with less damage occurring use-on-use, as well as reducing the risk of developing new allergies to hair colour – perfect for sensitive souls. When hair colouring is such a balancing act, it’s nice to know that you have a formula that will help to stabilise the process as much as possible. Pure Balance Technology by Wella Professionals works to deactivate the impurities present in hair, minimising the formation of free radicals. With less of these getting in the way during the colour development, you can expect less hair damage and purer colour results, with great depth and shine. The revolution doesn’t end there. The ME+ Technology is a breakthrough in colour formulations and is designed to replace the PPD and PTD in traditional colourants that
cause the majority of allergic reactions to hair colour. Without sacrificing quality in colour or formulation, ME+ makes it 60-times LESS likely for your client to develop a new allergy to hair colour by removing these two nasties. With more than seven years of colour science research, 3,000 test formulations and 20 patents between them, Pure Balance Technology and ME+ have revolutionised Koleston Perfect – an already much-loved formula. The new formula offers a significantly more even and balanced tone, as well as control of depth across a full spectrum of colours. If you were a fan of the original then don’t fret – you can expect the same mixing ratio, same development time and same grey coverage, all enhanced for easier mixing and a more precise application. Andreas Kurkowitz, Wella Professionals’ global colour ambassador, can’t believe the difference these additions have made to a familiar favourite. “It creates a more luxurious experience for the client, and the colour professional can easily recognise the superior colour,” he says. “Results are significantly more even, balanced and true to tone from root to tip. This is major step-up in hair colour technology.”
Be part of one of the biggest colour breakthroughs with Koleston Perfect and ME+ by Wella Professionals. To find out more, call 01256 320202 or visit wella.co.uk WellaUK WellaHairUK #AskForWella CREATIVE HEAD
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CREATIVE HEAD
20/09/2018 09:58
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
A touch of
GOLD
WHO DOESN’T LOVE ROSE GOLD? AND WHO DOESN’T WANT GORGEOUS HAIR, NOT JUST AT CHRISTMAS, BUT ALL-YEAR ROUND? CLIENTS CAN GIVE THEIR LOVED ONES BOTH, WITH CLOUD NINE’S GIFT OF GOLD LIMITED EDITION GIFT SETS GLORIOUS GIFTS THAT shine with rose gold and tools that promise to protect the hair from heat and leave locks glossy and gorgeous – Cloud Nine has created the perfect alchemy with its limited-edition gift sets. Whether clients want to create smooth, wavy or curly hair, the limited edition Gift of Gold gift sets will appeal to all clients. And the gifts just keep on giving as all the sets include: irons in a rose gold finish, silicone heat guard, limited edition black and rose gold style case and a luxury texture comb.
CLOUD NINE ORIGINAL IRON GIFT SET
For the woman who’s not content with the ordinary, this limited-edition Original Iron has been given a festive makeover with rose gold features and finish. Suitable for all hair types, this hair straightener creates sleek and curly styles that hold through all party season eventualities. Developed with innovative temperature control and Cloud Nine’s signature mineral-infused plates, hair stays healthy and styles last longer.
CLOUD NINE WIDE IRON GIFT SET
The award-winning Wide Iron is what those with long, thick hair have been looking for. The gift set comes with limited edition rose gold touches. Developed with innovative temperature control and the brand’s signature mineral-infused plates, you can be sure they will lock in moisture, delivering lasting style and glossy, party perfect locks.
CLOUD NINE TOUCH IRON GIFT SET
Help clients achieve flawlessly smooth hair with the Touch Iron, available in a limited edition rose gold finish this Christmas. Developed with automatic heat technology and touch temperature control, it helps create stunning styles fast.
Give the gift of gold this Christmas with Cloud Nine. To find out more call 0845 2003563, email stylists@cloudninehair.com or visit cloudninehair.com CREATIVE HEAD
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THE GIFT OF GOLD
THE ALCHEMY COLLECTION LIMITED EDITION
#PROJECTALCHEMY Our award winning straighteners, now in a Limited Edition Rose Gold gift set. Featuring exclusive Kinder Heat Technolog y, our irons give you the CONFIDENCE to experiment and the POWER to TRANSFORM. Without compromising hair’s STRENGTH, softness or SHINE.
Professional enquiries: STYLISTS@CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM or 0845 200 35 63 WWW.CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM
t a e r T them
t h g i r
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AFTER
IT WAS A LONG, HOT SUMMER, AND NOW PARTY SEASON IS AROUND THE CORNER. HAS YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR RECOVERED FROM ALL THAT SUN AND FUN, OR DOES SHE NEED HELP TO CAPTURE THAT SHINE AND SPARKLE SHE NEEDS FOR THE SEASON AHEAD? WITH L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, YOU CAN OFFER YOUR CLIENTS A WIDE RANGE OF TREATMENT SERVICES, WHATEVER THEIR HAIR NEEDS
BEFORE
Get your clients smiling this season with better-than-ever hair, treat them to some extra TLC with L’Oréal Professionnel
REACH YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR GOALS WITH SMARTBOND Are you looking for new ways to excite your clients about their colour services? And we bet lots of them are concerned about the condition of their hair, too. Then tell them about Smartbond, the clever ingredient from L’Oréal Professionnel that’s added to colour to minimise potential damage and protect hair. The two-step in-salon service is designed to protect and strengthen the bonds deep within the hair during the colouring and lightening process, leaving hair stronger, touchably softer and shinier. But that’s not all. Your clients can enjoy Smartbond in between colour appointments to help restore hair health. For best results, prescribe Smartbond Step 3, a three-minute conditioner to use at home, designed to prolong salon results and strengthen the hair fibre. You know it’s the smart move…
CREATIVE HEAD
20/09/2018 15:53
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
GIVE CLIENTS A BOOST WITH POWERMIX Consumers look for products that can be customised to their needs and L’Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert has a solution for everyone with Powermix, its first in-salon bespoke treatment that’s rich in concentrated active ingredients. Simply mix and apply it at the backwash in front of your client. Hair is instantly magnified by a flash of shine and incredible softness as well as delivering what the hair really needs. Which super power will your client pick?
COLOR A:OX-enriched for colour radiance and shine
LISS Pro keratin-enriched for smoothing and control
REPAIR Lipidium-enriched to resurface and hydrate
FORCE Biotin-enriched for strengthening, antibreakage power
NUTRI Glycerol-enriched for hydration and shine
BETTER BLONDES, EVERY TIME It’s a common concern – blonde clients worry about dullness and losing colour radiance. Now you have what you need to #empoweryourblonde clients and protect their colour – new Serie Expert Blondifier. A bespoke colour care solution for all blondes, Blondifier provides in-salon solutions for photoready blondes to help clients keep their light shade looking lustrous all year long. For cool, light blondes, use the Cool Blonde Perfector, with purple pigments to neutralise any unwanted brassy tones. For warmer blondes, reach for Sun-Kissed Blonde Perfector, containing blue pigments to neutralise any copper undertones. Mix the pigment booster of choice with Blondifier Masque to create a silky smooth cream that is applied onto your client’s hair for three to five minutes. You can power up their blonde service with a personalised treatment using Powermix Colour for an instant boost of radiance, or Powermix Repair to help restore damaged hair.
TO FIND OUT MORE CALL 0800 030 4034 OR VISIT LOREALPROFESSIONNEL.CO.UK. KEEP UP-TO-DATE ON SOCIAL MEDIA @LOREALPRO #LOREALPROUK
CREATIVE HEAD
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20/09/2018 15:54
MORE
MORE
MORE! FROM CAREFUL CLEANSING TO FUN COLOUR LIKE NO OTHER, THE REVAMPED RUSK LINE-UP WANTS TO GIVE YOU AND YOUR CLIENTS ALL YOU NEED… AND MORE!
44
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CREATIVE HEAD
17/09/2018 10:23
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
HOLDING OUT FOR A HERO
KATIE MULCAHY KNOWS A SUPERHERO WHEN SHE SEES ONE. THE RUSK BRAND AMBASSADOR SHARES HER SUPERS AND THEIR HEROIC POWERS. X-RAY VISION NOT INCLUDED...
ADVANCED KERATIN DEEP TREATMENT
“My favourite thing to do with this is to treat it more as a ‘facial’ for clients’ hair. It’s perfect for over-processed hair that has seen better days”
BLOFOAM ROOT BOOST MOUSSE
“I like this for major root lift, volume and texture. I can keep the lengths and ends product-free and simply apply this where needed”
LUSTERISER
“Adding thickness and body strand by strand, Lusteriser makes any head of hair look fuller. It’s healthy hair in a bottle!”
MATTE CLAY
“This is a truly universal product, perfect for creating definition and an extra reworkable matte style for all kinds of cuts”
CREATIVE HEAD
044-047_Rusk 32.indd 2
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17/09/2018 10:24
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17/09/2018 10:24
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
COLOUR WITHOUT COMMITMENT YOUR CLIENTS WANT A QUICK STYLE CHANGE BUT THEY DON’T ALWAYS WANT TO MAKE A LONG-TERM COMMITMENT. SAY HELLO TO THE RUSK COLOUR MOUSSE COLLECTION AND OFFER TEMPORARY COLOUR LOOKS THAT WILL WOW... THEN WASH OUT!
COLOUR MOUSSE Available in pink, purple, blue and teal, using this mousse is simple – apply to wet hair as you would normally, blow-dry and style – no rinsing required. Not only does it create a colour statement, but because it is a styling mousse it also adds body, hold and volume to the hair. And a few washes later the colour’s gone. A great colour refresher or toner.
“There’s a constant demand for flawless vibrant shades and RUSK Colour Mousses are just what you need. These mousses are versatile and easy to use, so clients can have fun and experiment” KATIE MULCAHY, COLOUR AMBASSADOR FOR RUSK UK RUSK is available exclusively from Salon Services – to find your local store or to order online visit salon-services.com or call 0330 1231907. Follow RUSK UK CREATIVE HEAD
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17/09/2018 10:24
COPYRIGHT
YOUR SALON THE LAUNCH OF TIGI COPYRIGHT CARE EDUCATION IS YOUR TICKET TO GETTING AHEAD FOR 2019, GIVING YOU THE PRODUCTS AND THE TOOLS NECESSARY TO GROW YOUR BUSINESS
48
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CREATIVE HEAD
17/09/2018 10:26
• Product knowledge and service support • Creative demonstrations and workshops on how to Copyright your client’s style • Business development with a focus on ‘upselling’ to increase potential profit, with insights into goal setting and how to attain targets
CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
EDUCATION IS CONSTANTLY evolving – something Anthony Mascolo has always believed in. It’s fundamental to a salon’s success, which is why through TIGI Education, he and the TIGI Creative Team share everything they develop, adding new ideas into courses throughout the year. This ethos not only inspires and informs other hairdressers, but also pushes Anthony and the team to progress their own work. The launch of the TIGI Copyright Care range inspired the brand’s Education Team to look at new ways to not only share the latest cutting and colouring concepts, but also provide new ideas to help salons customise the services offered to clients. New courses launching for 2019 will run in-salon and at the TIGI Academy. You can look forward to courses on:
BOOK IT! I
For the latest TIG course information email uk.education @tigi.com
While a creative element will definitely be there in the new courses, it is also vital salons are profitable, with healthy client growth and client loyalty, and a happy, focused and ambitious team. This is why the new TIGI Copyright Education is providing an overall programme to ensure salons are equipped to grow their businesses artistically, creatively and commercially.
FOR YOUR CLIENTS COLOUR AND CARE care drives technical and artistic
TIGI copyright©olour and range of treatments. It expertise while providing a fantastic to provide the ultimate salon gives hairdressers the opportunity and treatments that will impress experience, with bespoke colours and experience level and, clients on a personalised service eve their own hair goals. importantly, will enable them to achi
TO FIND OUT HOW TIGI COPYRIGHT©OLOUR AND CARE CAN BOOST YOUR BUSINESS, EMAIL EU.CUSTOMERSERVICE@TIGI.COM OR CALL 0344 844 0944. STAY UP-TO-DATE ON INSTAGRAM AT @TIGICOPYRIGHT CREATIVE HEAD
048-049_TIGI.indd 2
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17/09/2018 10:27
BUSINESS NETWORKING FOR SALON OWNERS AND MANAGERS
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050_SalonSmart.indd 1
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Reserve your salon catalogue or our first exclusive Barber’s catalogue now by emailing sales@coolblades.co.uk with your name and address.
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941£
All information and prices are correct at time of printing and subject to change without notice.
Dozens of new products from a huge range of brands including:
CoolBladesQ.indd 1
19/09/2018 10:33
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£149
CRICKET RPM Precision designed to shape the perfect finish with double-return bristles with reinforced ball tips that won’t tangle, split or break hairs. 3 sizes: 8 Row, 12 Row or 12 Row XL.
AT
TAKARA BELMONT APOLLO 2
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One of the world’s most iconic barber chairs…
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• 360º (lockable) rotation • Synchronised reclining back rest and raising foot rest • Recline lever on both sides • Spring-loaded seat cushion • Adjustable and removable head rest • Japanese heat-pressed or stitch-sewn upholstery • Cast-iron metalwork • Upholstered padded arm rests • Integrated gown rail • Belmont-branded foot rest with stopper.
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From £1,849
KOBE BARBER WAX APRON
£3.89 each / £10.50 set of 3
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2 large waist pockets take clippers and water sprays, with riveted leather loops for clips. 2 chest pockets are ideal for combs and scissors. Adjustable leather straps with bronzed, heavy duty studs, rivets and buckles.
WAHL 5-STAR CORDLESS SENIOR
SEDASLEB. EVISUE
COOLBLADES EXCLUSIVE
3 colours: Sand, Chocolate or Maroon.
£39.95 each
Powerful American barber’s classic with lithium ion technology and a thin profile blade that can be zero overlapped via the taper lever for close cutting and precision fades. Run time: 70 mins Charge time: 70 mins Cutting length: 1–3.5 mm
BEST SELLER
REILRPEPILUPSPSULSOSOLTOGONTIDGANEIDLASE’LKUS’EKHUTEHT
PERFECT FOR BARBERING
Supplied with 10 of Wahl’s super-tough premium cutting guides (#1-8, #½ & #1½) and a flat top comb.
YS PARK 365
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Gradual narrowing of teeth pitch for control. Oval-shaped teeth for more effective colouring. White, Carbon Black.
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KOBE GALAXY
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The newest addition to the Professional range, the Kobe Galaxy is a long, black scissor with sword blades for those who like a bit more power in their cut.
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Razor sharp, convex blades are handmade from the highest quality Japanese 440C high carbon steel and feature ergonomic offset handles and finger-adjustable tension screw for ultimate control and comfort.
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The Kobe Galaxy comes with Kobe’s lifetime manufacturing warranty and free servicing for two years.
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£10.99
PARLUX ALYON
Lightweight and powerful with a built-in silencer and “Air Ionizer Tech” ionic technology.
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190 319980 3359281305210 KU.OKC£149U.S.OEDCA.SLEBDLAOLOBCLOOC Available in 6.5 or 7.0 inches.
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• Motor: 2250 watts • Airflow: 84 m3/hr • Soft switches • 2 speeds / 4 heat settings • Cold shot button • Colours: Matt Black, Matt Graphite, Bronze and Blue.
£108
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CoolBladesQ.indd 2
19/09/2018 10:41
THE FACES, THE PLACES, THE NEWS, THE VIEWS
Mr. Q
telling you, we have one Well hello there – I don’t mind rter. The reveal of the heck of an issue for you this qua ng Specialist? Yup, 2018 Most Wanted Male Groomi w with barbering rvie turn to page 8. A shoot and inte t Wanted Male Mos 7 201 icon Kevin Luchmun and the , exclusively for rew And n Grooming Specialist, Jonatha a sneaky little with and – 10 yours truly? Oh yes, on page tease on the cover! Do dive in…
GET SMART
1. 2. 3.
WHAT ALL BARBERS SHOULD DO THIS QUARTER See… who scoops the Men’s Grooming title at this year’s UK and Irish final of the Wella Trend Vision Award at the iconic Roundhouse in London. Follow @creativeheadmag on Instagram on 8 October for all the updates Watch… Ross Charles get to grips with rollers and a razor for a feather-finish long gents’ cut – see the steps on Creative HEAD Education! creativeheadmag.com/education Learn… to be a Master of Men’s Grooming with American Crew’s Shear course, covering core barbering and hairdressing concepts with precision. 16 October, Leeds, americancrew.com
YO TO U NE ME ED ET…
welcomes you…
CHRISTIAN WILES Christian Wiles Hairdressing, Northampton
Describe yourself in five words Unassuming, genuine, loyal, passionate, commercially-minded. What’s exciting you about British barbering right now? There is a surge in men’s hairdressing. Barriers are coming down and we’re beginning to bridge the gap between hairdressers and barbers. Suddenly this shared knowledge, energy and enthusiasm between the two worlds is amalgamating and it’s incredibly exciting. In the past, the two industries have isolated themselves, but no longer. Everything changed for me when… I went on school work experience to a hairdresser. I was 15 years old and at that time my focus was on art. I walked into a salon and experienced an electric energy – I enjoyed the social aspects of working in the salon environment
and witnessed and recognised creative hairdressing for the first time. Watching the guys creating beautiful shapes drew me in. Seeing clients leaving happy and energised convinced me hairdressing was the career path I wanted to follow. If I could change one thing… Historically, barbering is an art form. We need to refine it, keep it on a more professional level and develop it making it more gentlemanly. This will encourage longevity. The hairdresser that most inspired me is… Eugene Souleiman is on another level, he’s one of the most creative people on the planet alongside Mark Hayes, who is the most elegant, charming, articulate and aweinspiring hairdresser. Say hello to me… @chrisitanwilesmen
ON THE COVER Hair by Kevin Luchmun and Jonathan Andrew, assisted by Hayden Cassidy. Styling by Vix Adams. Photography by Kevin Luchmun
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NEW GROOM ROOM HOB Man, Brent Cross
FULL MARKS Say hello to Callum Marks, the manager at Luka’s Barbers in Plymouth – he’s the new member of The Bluebeards Revenge team, joining as a brand ambassador. In his new role, Callum will be involved with product development and testing, platform work, photoshoots and video tutorials for the brand’s YouTube channel.
HOB Man, the male grooming brand from HOB Salons, has unveiled a makeover of its Brent Cross shopping centre venue. Originally opened in 2012, the salon enjoys an incredibly high footfall rate and serves more than 400 clients a week. Innovare design company and Bridley Interiors shopfitters were enlisted to modernise the space, which now features eight barber stations, two backwash units, built-in retail and reception space and large illuminated visuals showcasing HOB’s men’s hair collections. Alongside the refurb, the HOB team has relaunched its services menu and has launched its very own range of men’s haircare and styling products, available exclusively on-site.
£106.6m
MICHAEL VAN CLARKE UNVEILS BARBERING SERVICE Marylebone salon Michael Van Clarke has introduced a new bespoke barbering service. Claudio Pizzo, previously at Gentlemen’s Tonic in Mayfair, will bring a range of high-end male barbering services alongside traditional haircutting. Claudio will also join the salon’s Bridal Team, offering the full barber service to grooms and their party on location.
PRIME NUMBERS
supported by
THAT’S THE VALUE of the male skincare market, according to retail bible The Grocer, an increase of 6.5 per cent. It’s proof there’s a world of opportunity for barber shops and grooming salons, if you take the time to boost your team’s retail skills to up the client’s bill with skincare products to take home. Retailing the products you use on your clients on a daily basis can add thousands of pounds to the bottom line.To improve your retailing capabilities invest in a display unit and ensure it’s located in a prominent area. Importantly, you need to talk to your customers about the products while you’re using them, explaining the benefits and USPs.
Want to be part of The Bluebeards Revenge crew? Visit bluebeards-revenge.co.uk Mister Quarterly 05
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ON THE SHELF
BOYS’ TOYS
THE HOTTEST STOCK, TOOLS AND FURNITURE FOR YOUR BARBER SHOP Fuss-free and high performance, the new men’s line from RUSK has the essentials every guy needs, including Fibre Paste, with web-like fibres to create mouldable hold.
£7.49+VAT 0330 1231907 salon-services. com
Want full-on boldness? Grab the Andis Nation Baxter’s special edition Beard Cordless USPro Oil contains Fade Li clipper, which squalene, avocado comes with nine oil and vitamin E comb attachments. to leave skin supple and hair hydrated. £93 £20 01635 279 824 andis.com baxterofcalifornia.com
The The Dark Stag DS1 Black & Gold stainless Wahl new Stop steel scissors are pure barber tools, with one Super & Grow range micro serrated blade ensuring a perfect, Taper is from Hairdreams trustworthy cut right to the tip. a barbering can help to re-boot essential, turning £38+VAT sluggish follicles, and 30 years old this 0330 123 1907 in turn boost hair growth year. Celebrate with salon-services.com by up to 30 per cent. Perfect for this limited edition Union clients worried about hair loss. Jack design.
In-salon service
£89.99+VAT
stopandgrow.com
01227 740066 wahl.co.uk
American Crew has unveiled ACUMEN, a regime-focused line including Shower, Shave, Care and Style.
From £18 020 7391 7440 americancrew. com
Ever evolving, the iconic Apollo 2 grooming chair now offers an optional heel rest.
From £2,036 for chair; heel rest £275 020 7515 0333 takarahairdressing.co.uk
Stimulate your client’s scalp and refresh their hair with The Bluebeards Revenge range of hair tonics, in Classic and Cuban scents.
£9.99 bluebeardsrevenge. co.uk
06 Mister Quarterly
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TAKE CONTROL Create thicker, fuller looking styles that won’t flop with new Bed Head For Men style builders. Introducing Dense Up™ Style Building Shampoo, with styling power for easy style creation and retention. Shape and create with Press Up™ Styling Foam for 24 hour fuller looking hair, and Thick-Up Line™ Grooming Cream for long-lasting texture without the weight. Take control of your men’s business. Email: eu.customerservice@tigi.com or phone 0344 844 0944
www.tigi.com
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BEDHEHADBYTIGI #cutstylegroom
13/08/2018 10:11
#TRENDING
JODY TAYLOR Most Wanted Male Grooming Specialist 2018
2018
When his name was revealed on the stage at the 2018 Most Wanted Awards in the Natural History Museum, the crowd erupted in celebration. To say Jody Taylor is a popular winner of the Male Grooming Specialist trophy would be an understatement. Self-effacing, laser-focused on his work and supportive of others in the industry, Jody has, in the few years since he left Toni&Guy and gone out on his own, cultivated a dedicated following – there’s no ego, just talent. Signed to Premier Hair & Make-Up, Jody has worked with brands such as Dior, Louis Vuitton, Hackett London and Pretty Green, and has editorial cuttings in his portfolio of the likes of V, GQ and Interview. Now, for those who want a touch of that chilled Jody vibe, there’s product range Taylored London, a collection of three stylers that capture his aesthetic. But don’t mistake his laid-back demeanour for a lack of passion. “In my experience, you’re more respected if you trust your own opinions,” he says. “You won’t be remembered if all you do is say yes.”
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ESSENTIAL MR. Q DOES THE HARD WORK FOR YOU, DELIVERING WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Say hello to American Crew ACUMEN, the new skincare and grooming four-step regime-focused brand. It covers all a man could want from Shower, Shave, Care through to Style, and this assembly of awesomeness was created to inspire excellence in men. It’s more than a regime; the hope is to instil a ritual among men to help elevate their look and impart a little self-assurance. Anchored by a professional heritage, American Crew ACUMEN is a prestige line formulated exclusively for men and their needs. Prices start at £18
There are some moments captured that just distil every little aspect perfectly… and this is a brilliant example. Step forward Chris O’Riordan from ST4Men, part of Irish salon group Sean Taaffe – the Irish American Crew All Star Challenge winner. Want a little of Mr O’Riordan’s style? Apply American Crew Boost Powder to roots to add texture and volume, layering in Fiber Cream for hold and shine.
#MrQCrewCloseUp
ONE FOR THE ROAD… Get your motor running… did you spot American Crew founder David Raccuglia on his tour of the UK? His visit kick-started the Harley Davidson and American Crew #stylefortheroad campaign. Bikes and barbers gathered in London, Leeds and Glasgow with a roadshow that embraced beautiful bikes, live model catwalks and interviews with David by American Crew Elite members Alan Beak and Colin Petrie. As revealed in our last issue, American Crew has teamed up with Harley-Davidson Motorcycles to
craft unique experiences and events for consumers worldwide. David, also an editorial photographer, shot the upcoming advertising campaign, Style for the Road, in Marfa, Texas. The images will now appear in advertising in salons and barber shops around the world. “This collaboration with HarleyDavidson is a milestone in the life of American Crew, which is very close to its 25th anniversary,” said David. “We’re looking forward to connecting the brands through our shared values of freedom and self-expression.”
Want to know more about how American Crew can boost your barbering? Call 020 7391 7440 or visit americancrew.com
AmericanCrewUK Mister Quarterly 09
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LET’S BE HONEST, THERE’S A LITTLE TENSION BETWEEN THE WORLD OF THE BARBER, AND THAT OF THE MALE GROOMER. THAT’S WHY FORMER MOST WANTED MALE GROOMING SPECIALIST JONATHAN ANDREW WAS KEEN TO COLLABORATE WITH ADORED BARBER KEVIN LUCHMUN TO ILLUSTRATE THAT BOTH APPROACHES CAN WORK IN HARMONY. WITH AN EXCLUSIVE SHOOT FOR MR Q, THE DUO SHOW US WHAT THEY’RE MADE OF… AND TALK ABOUT THEIR APPROACH TO MODERN MEN’S HAIR
PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN LUCHMUN 10 Mister Quarterly
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Mr Q: Why did you want to work on a shoot together? Kevin Luchmun: I’ve known Jonathan for many years and we’ve always admired each other’s work. We really wanted to collaborate together and make art. There was no real guideline; we wanted to create something cool and bounce ideas off each other. Jonathan Andrew: I’ve always been a big fan of Kevin’s work and it was last year, when we were both up against each other in the Most Wanted Awards, that I really thought about it. Something you never really see is hairdressers or barbers just getting together and sharing their respective skills. With this
shoot I wanted to work alongside Kevin doing what I do and, in turn, get to see how he works and collaborate together to come up with something fun and different. Mr Q: What have you learned from working together? JA: It’s always great to see someone so passionate about their craft and to soak up all their energy. I learned so much about photography and getting the image outside of a studio, which was great. Also that we can come together in a crisis! Everything that could have gone wrong with this shoot did, and we pulled it all together. Mister Quarterly 11
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HAIR Kevin Luchmun and Jonathan Andrew. ASSISTANT Hayden Cassidy. STYLIST Vix Adams KL: We work well together, and we’re pretty chilled. We loved sharing our ideas, even though we had a bit of a ’mare in the runup! But with everything that happens in life, it’s always subject to change and we pulled it off with work that we both can be proud of. We also had a helping hand from Hayden Cassidy, who is an amazing barber and helped us with the prep.” Mr Q: What would you like our audience to take away from this collaboration? KL: Work together and share ideas. You shouldn’t be in
competition against people, only yourself. It’s about creating cool work and content that you can learn and share ideas from. JA: Talk to someone you admire in the industry and see what happens. I’m so grateful and fortunate that Kevin saw what I saw and wanted to do something. It speaks volumes about his character. I hope we inspire people to push themselves, but, ultimately, it’s just to see people get away from the ‘competition’ label and collaborate. We all have so much to share – I always want to keep learning and for me this is an incredible way to do it.
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PROMO
LOSING IT LOTS OF MEN LOSE SLEEP WORRYING ABOUT HAIR LOSS. OFFER THEM HOPE WITH STOP & GROW BY HAIRDREAMS Your male clients don’t want to live with hair loss, but the stats show they’re highly likely to have to. According to research, 40 per cent of men will have noticeable hair loss by the age of 35, rising to 65 per cent by the age of 60, and 80 per cent by the age of 80 – and to give you an idea of what it will mean to them, 60 per cent say they would rather have more hair than money or friends. Well, there’s good news for your male hair loss sufferers: Hairdreams has made giant strides towards finding an answer for their troubles. The Stop & Grow anti-hair loss system is formulated with PHT-Complex, a scientifically proven active ingredient made from plant-based phytohormones and Tetra G-Collagen. It is an astonishing seven-times more effective at combatting
hair loss than the current world’s best-selling ingredient. Stop & Grow is more than just a product – it’s a full system capable of increasing the productivity of hair roots by up to 23 per cent over 90 days; that’s the equivalent of 14,000 additional hairs. Here’s how it works. As a Stop Stop & Grow & Grow salon, you use your offers hope to men Hairdreams Microscanner to suffering from hair loss. analyse your client’s hair loss Make your clients’ dreams situation and prescribe the best come true by becoming treatment to counter it. There a Stop & Grow salon are three different products and stockist now. treatments in the system for three different kinds of hair loss:
PHT ELIXIR
PHT CONCENTRATE
PHT TONIC
The most powerful treatment with the highest concentration of PHT Complex. It reactivates roots and provides nutrients the follicle needs to generate new hair.
The ‘little brother’ of the Elixir, it contains 50 per cent of the PHT Complex, making it perfect as a followup treatment to the Elixir.
This tonic is perfect for helping to prevent genetic hair loss, it also helps maintain the results of the Elixir and Concentrate.
To find out more, call +43 664 8485979 or visit stopandgrow.com Mister Quarterly 13
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SHOP TALK
POLE POSITION RUFFIANS Ruffians may sound like it houses a scary bunch, but rest assured it’s actually home to an artistic and client-focused gang of barbers and groomers. With a strategy to create a true men’s lifestyle destination, the attention to detail is what sets these shops apart from your everyday barbers. Under the sharp guiding eye of creative director Denis Robinson, the group has seen its quality cuts and services achieve huge acclaim. Launched in Edinburgh back in 2012, Ruffians now has five locations (including one in Liberty London) and a veritable trophy cabinet of awards, including Most Wanted Best Salon Team and Best Salon Experience. Co-founder Andrew Cannon’s attention to detail stems from his background in branding, and has created an environment that elevates a simple cut to the next level. Barbers are allocated extra time to make sure they give a proper consultation, and the stores have an integrated vacuum system to whisk away those pesky stray hairs. Bit parky outside? Clients need not worry, as coat warmers are nestled inside the shops’ lockers. And its Scottish heritage comes through loud and proud in its whisky bars and Scottish oak cutting desks (not to mention the Tunnock’s tea cakes available). “I entered the world of hairdressing as a customer, rather than as a hairdresser,” says Andrew. “I was incredibly frustrated with the lack of barber shops offering truly exceptional levels of service. So, from day one, the greatest driver behind everything we do has always been our customers.” And of those little touches that illustrate the brand’s attention to detail, its the Ruffians Pale Ale created by an Edinburghbased craft brewery that Andrew has the softest spot for. “We wanted to create something completely bespoke to us from taste to design. It’s very popular, too!”
Ruffians Covent Garden
Ruffians Liberty
A SHARP ATTENTION TO DETAIL HAS HELPED PUT RUFFIANS AT THE FOREFRONT OF THE GROOMING WAVE
14 Mister Quarterly
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CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM MAGAZINE
EDUCATION
EVENTS
INSPIRATION
CREATIVE HEAD STORE
COMPETITIONS
EXCLUSIVE
WAVE HELLO TO ROSS CHARLES AND HIS ROLLERS AS HE SHARES THIS MEN’S LONG HAIR TECHNIQUE, EXCLUSIVELY ON CREATIVE HEAD EDUCATION
Book your tickets now for Salon Smart 2019!
creativeheadmag.com
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Think ink as Tom Chapman styles up a storm with The Bluebeards Revenge
creativeheadmagofficial
Watch the action from the Most Wanted Awards 2018 in our exclusive video
@creativeheadmag
19/09/2018 13:03
CORDLESS DETAILER
Introducing the NEW Cordless Detailer as part of the Wahl 5 Star Series - the specialist range of powerful, dynamic clippers and trimmers created to bring state of the art technology right to your barbershop or salon. EXTENDED WIDE RANGE DETAILING
UNIQUE ADJUSTABLE TAPER LEVER ENABLES TRIMMING, BLENDING AND TAPERING OF THE HAIRLINE
EXTRA WIDE TSHAPED BLADES
PRODUCE FASTER CUTTING RESULTS THAN STANDARD TRIMMER BLADES ENABLING SUPER CLOSE TRIMMING, OUTLINES AND ACCURATE DETAIL WORK
CORDLESS
TO PROVIDE FLEXIBILITY AND FREEDOM OF USE WHEREVER YOU ARE
THE COLLABORATORS
JOIN CREATIVE HEAD FOR AN EVENING OF CONVERSATION AND INSPIRATION AS THE COTERIE RETURNS TO SCOTLAND
JENNIFER LINTON AND JOANNA MACDONALD A contemporary image, a killer Instagram feed and a cool mix of modern salon concepts – we talk to the co-creators of Aberdeen salon Linton & Mac about mastering their market
PAUL PERCIVAL
Meet the music man! Frequently booked to work with pop royalty including Rita Ora, Ellie Goulding and best mate Will Young, Paul is also co-founder of London’s Percy & Reed salons
MONDAY 29 OCTOBER 2018 7PM UNTIL 10PM, EDINBURGH
D NUMBER AVAIL £15 EARLY BIRD TICKET (LIMITE
BER)
ABLE – BOOK BEFORE 15 OCTO
BUY TICKETS AT CREATIVEHEADMAG.COM/STORE OR CALL 01434 610416 SINGLE TICKET £25 / TICKET BUNDLE (FIVE) £100
Price includes canapés on arrival, drinks all evening and a gift from BaByliss PRO
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19/09/2018 15:15
DALE HOLLINSHEAD, HAZEL & HAYDN
OUR FRIENDS
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CREATIVE HEAD
18/09/2018 13:30
CHRISTIAN WILES, CHRISTIAN WILES HAIRDRESSING
E L E C T R I C
AT AN EXCLUSIVE EVENT IN COLLABORATION WITH LEGENDARY PHOTOGRAPHER RANKIN AND ICONIC SESSION STYLIST NICK IRWIN AND SPONSORED BY BABYLISS PRO, CREATIVE HEAD CELEBRATED ITS INCREDIBLE AUDIENCE BY RANDOMLY SELECTING A FEW LUCKY READERS TO HAVE THEIR PORTRAITS TAKEN, DURING AN ELECTRIC NIGHT AT RANKIN’S STUDIO. HERE’S SOME OF THE ACTION…
PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANKIN
KERI J HUNT, CATO HAIR SALON
CREATIVE HEAD
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MITCHELL WILSON, LAUNDRY EMMA SIMMONDS, SALON 54 54
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CREATIVE HEAD
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PHOTOGRAPHY RANKIN. HAIR NICK IRWIN, ASSISTED BY ELLIE BOND, PADDY MCDOUGALL, PETER MELLON AND KATIE PRESCOTT USING BABYLISS PRO. MAKE-UP MARCO ANTONIO
TOM FREAR, SPIRIT HAIR DESIGN
TO SEE more coverage from the night, visit creativeheadmag.com/events
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COOL AS ICE NEW YORK FASHION WEEK HAS SPOKEN AND BLUE RULES THIS A/W18 – SO RELAX, YOUR CLIENTS’ CHRISTMAS SHOPPING IS SORTED, THANKS TO THE GLISTENING GHD GLACIAL BLUE COLLECTION
Jeremy Scott A/W18
TAKE INSPIRATION FROM the Jeremy Scott A/W18 show from New York Fashion Week and go bold and blue this winter! Embrace icy hues with the limited edition ghd glacial blue collection, featuring the new ghd platinum+ styler, iconic ghd gold styler and ghd air hairdryer, all dusted in a frosty hue straight from the catwalk. With this sparkling capsule collection, your clients (and who they’re shopping for!) can create a multitude of styles and enjoy healthier* and shinier** hair. Because good hair days are for life with ghd, not just for Christmas.
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“The aim was to get the hair to look as glossy and shiny as possible, so the ghd gold styler created that intense smoothness and shine. The bold colour and sharp finish created hyper-real perfection that was almost space-age” EUGENE SOULEIMAN, GHD FASHION WEEK AMBASSADOR
CREATIVE HEAD
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL *Reduced breakage and two-times less colour fade versus a styler working at 230°C. **Versus naturally dried hair.
GHD PLATINUM+ STYLER GLACIAL BLUE COLLECTION Sparkling with a glistening blue makeover, the new ghd platinum+ styler is the world’s first smart styler that predicts hair’s needs and adapts accordingly to maintain the optimum styling temperature on all hair types. By recognising the thickness of hair and the speed at which you’re styling, this styler delivers unbeatable results faster than ever before… and personalised each and every time!
70% STRONGER HAIR* 20% MORE SHINE** TWO-TIMES MORE COLOUR INTEGRITY* FASTEST EVER HEAT UP TIME
GHD GOLD STYLER GLACIAL BLUE COLLECTION
The best-selling ghd gold styler features dual-zone technology for premium performance, a modernised design for smooth, snag-free styling, and delivers unparalleled results. No wonder one is sold every four minutes! With the frosty blue makeover, it’s cooler than ever.
GHD AIR HAIRDRYER GLACIAL BLUE COLLECTION
The ghd air hairdryer prides itself on precision, and this limited edition dryer is accented in the coolest shade of the season. With its professional-strength motor and advanced ionic technology, ghd air delivers exceptionally fast drying and styling, while reducing frizz, leaving hair soft and silky.
Give Christmas added sparkle with the ghd glacial blue collection, the coolest way to fill those stockings. For more information and to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400 #ghdglacialblue CREATIVE HEAD
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FIT FOR A QUEEN HELP YOUR CLIENTS REIGN SUPREME THIS CHRISTMAS WITH A SELECTION OF LUXURIOUS GHD GIFT SETS
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
GHD LUXURY GIFT SETS
Perfect for... the girl who wants it all
Perfect for... the girl whose hair is her crowning glory
The perfect double act for party season or a surprise under the tree, this features the classic ghd gold styler with dual-zone technology and a ghd air hairdryer, as well as a heat mat.
The world’s first smart styler, ghd platinum+ features predictive technology that adapts to hair needs. Oh, and you also get a paddle brush, clips and a heat-resistant roll bag.
DRY & STYLE GIFT SET
HEALTHIER STYLING GIFT SET
GHD CLASSIC GIFT SETS
Perfect for... the girl who craves perfection
SMOOTH STYLING GIFT SET
Achieve sleeker, smoother and healthier hair thanks to the ghd gold styler, which comes with a paddle brush, sectioning clips and a heat-resistant bag. Santa, you spoil us…
Perfect for... the curl queen
LONG-LASTING CURL GIFT SETS
For curls that last as long as you do, choose the ghd creative curl wand or the ghd soft curl tong gift set, each with an oval dressing brush, sectioning clips, styling glove and heat mat.
GHD STOCKING FILLERS
Perfect for… the girl who’s always on the move
TRAVEL BRUSH & COMB GIFT SET
This style duo of ghd paddle brush and tail comb are handbag essentials.
Perfect for... the ultimate jet-setter
FLIGHT TRAVEL HAIRDRYER GIFT SET Does the queen of travelling frequent your salon? Look no further than the ghd flight travel hairdryer.
For more information and to become a stockist, contact your ghd account manager or call 01924 423400 #ghdunderthetree CREATIVE HEAD
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REIGN SUPREME THIS CHRISTMAS
#longlivethequeens #ghdglacialblue
Do Adjust your sets DISRUPTORS
g in m m ra og pr r la gu re r u yo t up W e interr es s es in us b om fr on ti ra pi s in u to bring yo that are anything but average 62
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20/09/2018 16:19
In association with
THESE BRANDS ARE DISRUPTORS – of the norm, of the expected, of the status quo. They have managed to circumnavigate the customer’s expectations to produce something that you can’t believe you ever lived without. The beauty space has seen a lot of brands change how people shop, seemingly forever. We’re looking at you Birchbox, with your trybefore-you-buy appeal; at Deciem, for going straight to source; at Glossier for building a brand out of an editorial audience, rather than trying to attract one. Here’s how to interrupt the normal…
Glossier showroom
REMEM BER LIFE BEFORE AMAZO N? BEFORE NETFLIX, ASOS, AIRBN B AND UBER ? OF COURSE YOU CAN – IT WASN’T THAT LONG AGO – BUT COU LD YOU IMAGINE GOING BACK?
OF COURSE, YOU’VE GOT TO GET SOCIAL
Having a touch of social savvy about your salon is crucial. Capitalising on new media methods and messaging can make all the difference when shouting about your brand. Breakout beauty brand Glossier’s showroom in NYC is designed as much for selfies as it is sales, but the numbers don’t lie – up to 70 per cent of Glossier’s sales come from peer referrals, driven hugely by those Insta-worthy images. A level of retail entertainment, or ‘retailment’, is imperative when setting yourself apart from other salons. Think about what aspects of online shopping consistently disappoint – clunky interfaces, a lack of space for questions and answers. A genuine human element in retail will always beat a digital void. There is no space, or excuse, for a ‘one-size-fits-all’ approach in our modern consumer landscape anymore.
NOT QUITE A DISRUPTOR? MAYBE YOU’RE A CHALLENGER It’s understandable that having this almost punk attitude might just be a bit too strong for many businesses, and that’s okay, you can still find inspiration and perhaps be a Challenger brand. They have a strong story, ingredient or message, and aren’t afraid to champion them. They’re working faster and smarter but still function, produce or retail in the same sort of way as traditional brands, albeit with clever marketing, strong branding or media. Think Christophe Robin, and his in-the-know experience feeding directly into their formulations, or evo and its new show-stopping ‘Don’t Buy It’ campaign, encouraging
CREATIVE HEAD
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consumers NOT to consume and purchase products unnecessarily, or to buy in to marketing guff. Challenger brands keep things interesting, pushing forward. True disruptors, on the other hand, are busy forging new ground. It’s often hard to compare them to other brands, because they’re playing by different rules to everyone else. They’re often tech-led, with a focus on product development rather than marketing. Take Tangle Teezer, which stripped down a hairbrush and created something new. Whether you’re a challenger or a disruptor at heart, thinking outside the box is the best way to stand out.
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BLOWN AWAY… DISRUPTORS CREATE FOR THE SAKE OF LIFE-CHANGING INNOVATION. THAT’S WHY DYSON CREATED THE NEW SUPERSONIC HAIR DRYER PROFESSIONAL EDITION – A DRYER THAT’S TRULY SUPERB FOR YOU, YOUR CLIENTS AND FOR THE HAIR HEALTH OF THE NATION DISRUPTORS CHANGE THE game and play by new rules – they enter a marketplace and set heads spinning. Dyson is the perfect example of this – having transformed UK homes and offices with bagless cleaners, bladeless fans and efficient hand dryers, it has now performed the same miracle on your most essential piece of kit – the hair dryer. Before Dyson, most hair dryers were – in the eyes of leading engineers – dumb things: noisy, heavy, non-ergonomic and delivering blasts of excessive heat damage to hair. The team at Dyson was convinced there was a better, more intelligent way. The company spent £56 million building specialist hair labs at its Cotswolds HQ and four years conducting painstaking research to look at everything from air flow dynamics to hair’s cellular structure. It took 582 prototypes before those Dyson perfectionists were satisfied. The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition is version number 583. And it’s worth the wait: a premium hair dryer that’s been engineered exactly to your needs – and delivering a whole new blow-dry experience. We know that you pride yourself on offering exceptional client service every time someone sits in your chair. Now let your Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition make you a game-changer all over again.
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“Dyson engineers have created the perfect tool for a professional stylist. Hair health is really important to me and I love knowing that I can trust this dryer to protect my clients’ natural shine. It never leaves my side!”
“My clients deserve the best, so it’s important we set the standard and give proper thought to the hair they wear every day. Take a Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition for two weeks and you’ll be converted”
LARRY KING, LARRY KING SALON, LONDON
DYLAN BRADSHAW, DYLAN BRADSHAW SALON, DUBLIN MOST WANTED EXCEPTIONAL STYLIST 2016, 2017 AND 2018
CREATIVE HEAD
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Intelligent Heat Control measures the temperature 20 times a second, intelligently controlling the heating element to avoid extreme heat. Hair is left shinier and less susceptible to damage and breakage.
Patented Air Multiplier Technology amplifies the volume of air drawn into the motor by three to produce a high-pressure, high-velocity jet of air that’s angled at 20 degrees for perfectly controlled precision styling.
Three precise speed settings (Fast, Regular and Styling) and four precise heat settings, ranging from 28˚C constant cold to 100˚C mean you can deliver a personalised blow-dry every time.
A Quiet Mark means you can actually enjoy a conversation with your client and you won’t battle against a wall of noise every hour of your working day.
Three rotating, super-strong magnetic attachments control the airflow and help you keep frizz and flyaways at bay: The Styling concentrator with its wide, thin nozzle; the Smoothing nozzle that quickly removes excess water and dries hair smooth with a gentle touch; and the Diffuser, which simulates natural air-drying to produce gorgeously defined curls.
The digital V9 motor is sixtimes faster than other hair dryer motors and it’s hidden in the handle to provide better balance when you’re working.
The Supersonic filter can handle all the super-hold hairspray you and your colleagues can muster, and it’s removable and washable to extend the life of your dryer. A little light tells you when it’s time for a clean.
ARE YOU READY TO GO SUPERSONIC? FOR AN EXCLUSIVE STYLIST PRICE CALL DYSON ON 0800 3457788. TO FIND OUT MORE, VISIT DYSON.CO.UK/PROFESSIONALHAIRCARE #DYSONPROHAIR CREATIVE HEAD
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#Disruptors
d n a p Rip it u n i a g a start bebop salon
Wh what are you waiting for?
YOU’D BE WRONG to think that it’s only millennials who are interested in Disruptor brands. Consumers can be grouped into five categories, according to analysts ResearchLive. The image-conscious Too Cool For School group are the trendwatchers likely to cause a buzz. Then there are the Go-getters, who are outgoing and always keen for something new, while the Nonchalants enjoy investing in brands that really fit with their lifestyle. In each of these disruptor-receptive groups, a fifth of them are aged 55+. Many millennials actually fall in the Mainstreamers group, clustered around averages for value and convenience, or the cautious Tried & Tested group. To tease away customer loyalty from rival brands, Disruptors have to amplify the competition, innovate with purpose and meet a real need.
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A REBELLIOUS HEART
“A new generation of entrepreneurs and stylists are coming through that doesn’t accept that the hierarchy of salons is set in stone,” says PELO Hairdressing’s Denise McLean. At bebop salon, it’s challenged traditional salon concepts by embracing gender neutral pricing and cruelty-free and vegan products, opting for R+Co. “In an age of brand saturation, we wanted to update and change the idea of what a salon is,” explains co-owner Pont Smith. “It took a while for guys to come into the salon as some were intimidated by the price, but when we explained our concept, a lot of them gave us a go.” Indeed, you have to keep pace with the team and your clients, and often that means reassessing your business model and your partnerships. Take Hairstory as an example – not only disrupting the very concept of how salons and clients cleanse hair with its New Wash single solution strategy, it also sells its capsule collection online but rewards its salons 25 per cent for each sale, so that they’re not losing out to beauty etailers elsewhere. From Sophia Hilton’s revolutionary Not Another Salon (and its emerging sub-brands) to multi-concept salon spaces (looking at you Radio, Laundry, TINT…), today’s hairdresser needs to challenge the idea of ‘salon’ and the services they offer to win customer loyalty on a high street packed with rivals, all vying for the same audience and the same pound. It’s time to think again…
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SKYLER LONDON
The colour salon causing a stir… In the hair industry it’s colour that’s causing most of the disruption right now. With colour-only salon Skyler London, Skyler McDonald is pioneering the next generation of salon services, reacting to that gap in the market when she noticed consumer interest was more focused on colouring hair than a cut. “I’ve seen a huge shift in how clients think about their hair,” she says. “Many people want their colour done more frequently than a cut. So I spent the last two years talking to as many people as I could about what would make the perfect colour salon – the result is Skyler London.” It features The Kaleidoscope Club payment option, offering guests colour services as often as they need through fixed monthly payments, the Self-Dry Zone for blowdrying and the Blast Zone, which features powerful wall dryers, perfect for anyone in a rush. There’s also the 360-degree Reveal Zone, a mirrored room with the ability to change the light and see your colour from every angle. She admits that, along with colour director Lloyd Court, she has taken a risk, but that the concept and execution has become “a real game changer”. And we didn’t even mention the salon’s slide…
From left: Larry King, David Gandy, James Dyson and (inset) Dylan Bradshaw
DYSON Blowing away boring The launch of Dyson’s Supersonic hair dryer sent shockwaves throughout the beauty industry. Over four years, a team of 103 engineers, stylists and scientists covered everything from airflow dynamics to hair’s cellular structure – running tests on nearly 1,625km of hair. Loved by many, the brand could have sat back and relaxed. might have launched limited editions and called it a day. But Dyson wasn’t satisfied. Taking feedback from hair stylists across the world, including Larry King, Most Wanted Exceptional Stylist Dylan Bradshaw and Instagram legend Jen Atkin, Dyson’s engineers headed straight back to the lab. The result? The Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition. After countless prototypes the engineers settled on a balanced weight that feels natural and light in hand, and an even more powerful motor that doesn’t drown out conversation. Most importantly, the detachable, washable
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filter was re-designed to better handle the daily challenges of the salon. Tom Crawford, global research and development director of personal care for Dyson, says: “To design a hair dryer for professionals, our engineers first had to understand the working habits and environments of hair stylists globally.” And with the Dyson Supersonic hair dryer Professional edition, they got it just right.
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Re-engineered for professionals.
The new Professional edition
Pulse-width modulation Air Multiplier™ technology
Enables precise control of heating element.
Annular element construction Annular double-stack heating element allows a compact barrel without compromising heat generation.
The volume of the air drawn in is amplified by three times, producing a high-pressure, high-velocity jet of air.
Re-engineered Professional concentrator Wider and thinner for precision styling, with cool grip edges.
LED indicators Increased magnetic strength
Clearly shows selected settings, and filter cleaning prompt.
2x stronger magnetic attachments, for secure 360° hold.1
Protects hair from extreme heat damage
Compared to consumer model.
1
Intelligent heat control measures air temperature 20 times a second. Precise settings 3 speed settings and 4 heat settings, including cool shot.
Acoustically tuned One inaudible frequency. Quiet Mark accredited.
Light in the hand The 27mm diameter motor is uniquely positioned in the handle, for balance.
Airflow exit Aperture design reduces air rush noise. Constructed from liquid crystal polymer to ensure thermal stability.
Negative ions Charged particles in the air reduce static in the hair.
Fast drying Dyson digital motor V9 spins at up to 110,000rpm. Vibration sound reduction mount A rubber isolation mount prevents the motor from vibrating against the inside of the handle, reducing the transfer of noise between the motor and the case.
Improved filter, built for salons Magnetic, removable and washable, with filter cleaning brush.
Longer cable 3.3 metres, for freer movement.
Only at dyson.co.uk/professionalhaircare #dysonprohair
#MWIT18
HELPING HANDS
MOST WANTED AWARD FOR INNOVATION 2018 WINNER STEWART ROBERTS AND HIS TEAM THOROUGHLY IMPRESSED THE JUDGES WITH THEIR MISSION TO DELIVER WHAT COULD BE A LIFE-CHANGING SERVICE, HAIRCUTS4HOMELESS A TRUE TESTAMENT to the power of the ripple effect, Haircuts4Homeless’s inauspicious beginnings have grown into a multi-national organisation. With more than 40 projects in the UK and Ireland now in operation, hairdresser Stewart Roberts, owner of Stewart Roberts in Stanford-le-Hope in Essex, had a humble dream to support vulnerable people that has now influenced thousands of lives. With the help of 300 volunteers, the Haircuts4Homeless team members have given more than 35,000 haircuts to those affected by homelessness – a worthy winner of the 2018 Most Wanted Award for Innovation. Started almost three years ago following his volunteer work with addicts, Stewart’s inspiration came from a fellow hairdresser in the US who was offering haircuts on the streets. Stewart teamed up with The Salvation Army, donating his time and tools to give haircuts to the drug and alcohol dependent. From a simple Facebook group word soon spread, and before he knew it they were popping up in three or four locations across the south-east, with the help of fellow hairdressers. While there have been other stylists offering their skills, Stewart’s Haircuts4Homeless team is trying to unite everyone into a reputable, safe service, working with shelters up and down the country. 70
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The number of rough sleepers across England has more than doubled since 2010 – and beyond that there are thousands more in statutory or ‘hidden’ homelessness. By trying to promote awareness and intervention at the earliest possible stage, Haircuts4Homeless is attempting to turn the tide on these rising trends. While it may seem small, the simple message that a haircut can change a life clearly resonated with Most Wanted judges. The charity is looking to reignite a flame that has gone out in clients with a simple haircut, a catalyst to unleash a person’s potential and empower them to change their circumstances. Whether it’s smartening up for a job interview, bolstering self-esteem or easing the crushing loneliness and isolation that many feel as forgotten members of society, Haircuts4Homeless volunteers create a noticeable difference in the attitudes of their patrons – both in themselves and from others. It’s not just hairdressers who are volunteering their time and effort, the consistency and welcoming attitude of the volunteers has helped to build up a level of trust which has been lacking in the lives of homeless people. Stewart Roberts’ team provide a friendly ear and a comforting voice to the problems of this marginalised group. Stewart sought to grow his project by reaching out to CREATIVE HEAD
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2018
homelessness services in Romford, Ilford, Leeds, Portsmouth and Clacton-on-Sea, urging an integrated approach with their own initiatives. The blend of these beneficial services has helped the enterprise expand across the country, with more locations expected to launch in the coming year. “I’ve been hairdressing for 40 years, and to be frank about five years ago, as a salon owner I’d fallen out of love with the industry, I was beat,” says Stewart. “Four years ago I did my first haircut in a homeless shelter. It’s been a personal journey as much for me as for the people whose hair I’m cutting and it’s made me fall back in love with hairdressing. There’s something so pure about doing something for someone else for no reward. They have lives you can’t imagine. This is only the beginning...” What this initiative has achieved is exemplary, and it’s great to see it recognised for its efforts – although we know an award pales in comparison with the visible lift its clients get. CREATIVE HEAD
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TO CELEBRATE TALENT ACROSS THE AVEDA SALON NETWORK, THE BRAND IS RUNNING A SERIES OF #AVEDAARTIST COMPETITIONS, WHERE STYLISTS ENTER CREATIVE IMAGES ON SOCIAL MEDIA WITH A CHANCE TO WIN A SHOOT DAY MENTORED BY ONE OF THE AVEDA ARTISTIC TEAM. WINNERS EMMA ENGLISH FROM JOSHUA TREE AVEDA CONCEPT SALON & SPA; MIA MOYERS FROM HAIR AT 58; AND BECKY TZ OF BUTCHERS SALON WERE INVITED TO DIRECT THEIR OWN SHOOT AT AVEDA IN CENTRAL LONDON. AND TO MAKE IT EVEN MORE FUN, THE THEME WAS THE ’70S AND A CHANCE TO RECOGNISE AND CELEBRATE THE 40TH BIRTHDAY OF AVEDA ITSELF. WHAT WOULD THE AVEDA ARTISTS CREATE?
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LOVE LOVE
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SIMS 73
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"I ENJOYED MY FIRST #AVEDAARTIST EXPERIENCE SO MUCH THAT I ENTERED AGAIN… BUT NEVER EXPECTED TO WIN! I LOVE BEING BACK ON SET AND THE CREATIVE FREEDOM OF TAKING A LOOK FROM INSPIRATION TO FINISHED SHOT” EMMA ENGLISH, JOSHUA TREE AVEDA CONCEPT SALON & SPA @EMMAENGLISHHAIR @AVEDAJOSHUATREE
“WE WENT WITH BIG, HIPPY HAIR REFERENCES. NATURAL TEXTURE, TEASED OUT CURLS AND BRUSHED-THROUGH AIRY VOLUME, ALL HELD IN PLACE WITH AVEDA AIR CONTROL HAIRSPRAY. THIS IS MY FIRST SHOOT AND I WAS SO NERVOUS! IT’S BEEN BRILLIANT THOUGH, IT’S REALLY ALLOWED ME TO BE CREATIVE IN A DIFFERENT WAY OUTSIDE THE SALON AND I CAN’T WAIT TO DO MORE. MY WHOLE SALON IS EXCITED ABOUT ME BEING HERE – THEY’RE ALL SHARING IT ON INSTAGRAM!” MIA MOYERS, HAIR AT 58 @MIAMOYERS_HAIR @HAIRAT58
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CR EATIV E HE AD AD VE RT OR IAL
HAIR: EMMA ENGLISH, JOSHUA TREE AVEDA CONCEPT SALON & SPA; MIA MOYERS, HAIR AT 58; AND BECKY TZ, BUTCHERS SALON. AVEDA CREATIVE DIRECTION: JACK CUNNINGHAM-ROSE (@MISTERHAIRCOLOUR) AND LUKE CASTILLO (@LUKECCASTILLO). MAKE-UP BY LUCY BROGGIO (@LUCY.BROGGIO_MUA). PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SIMS (@SIMSNOTEBOOK)
“RATHER THAN THE TYPICAL FARRAH FAWCETT FLICKS, I WANTED TO GO FOR SOMETHING MORE CURRENT. I USED A LOT OF AVEDA PURE ABUNDANCE ON THE ROOTS AND DRIED IN BEFORE ADDING PLENTY OF DRY SHAMPOO. THIS IS MY FIRST SHOOT EXPERIENCE SO I WAS A BIT APPREHENSIVE, BUT I'VE ABSOLUTELY LOVED IT – IT’S SO EXCITING” BECKY TZ, BUTCHERS SALON @HOLOGLAMHAIR @BUTCHERSSALON
GO ONLINE to see all the competition entries, search #avedaartist on Instagram, or visit @AvedaUK
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19/09/2018 10:32
The K man two
Avai
£149
91 UK
CRICKET RPMCRICKET RPM Precision designed to shapedesigned to shape Precision the perfect finish with double-return the perfect finish with double-return bristles with reinforced ball tipsreinforced that bristles with ball tips that won’t tangle, split won’t or break hairs. tangle, split or break hairs.
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3 sizes: 8 Row, 123Row or 812Row, Row12 XL. sizes: Row or 12 Row XL.
KOBE BARBERKOBE WAXBARBER APRON WAX APRON
£3.89 each / £10.50 of 3/ £10.50 set of 3 £3.89set each
TAKARA BELMONT APOLLO 2 APOLLO 2 TAKARA BELMONT
SEDArLeB.t EVISU2 .srorest
2 large waist pockets takewaist clippers and water 2 large pockets take clippers and water sprays, with riveted leather loops for clips. 2 loops for clips. 2 sprays, with riveted leather chest pockets arechest ideal for combs scissors. pockets areand ideal for combs and scissors.
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• 360º (lockable) rotation • 360º (lockable) rotation • Synchronised reclining back restreclining and raising • Synchronised back rest and raising Adjustable leatherAdjustable straps withleather straps with COOLBLADES COOLBLADES foot rest foot rest bronzed, heavy duty studs, heavy duty bronzed, studs, EXCLUSIVE • Recline lever on •both sides Recline lever on both sides rivets and buckles.rivets and buckles.EXCLUSIVE • Spring-loaded seat cushion • Spring-loaded seat cushion • Adjustable and removable head • Adjustable andrest removable head rest 3 colours: Sand, Chocolate Maroon. 3 colours:or Sand, Chocolate or Maroon. • Japanese heat-pressed or stitch-sewn • Japanese heat-pressed or stitch-sewn £39.95 each £39.95 each upholstery upholstery • Cast-iron metalwork • Cast-iron metalwork Powerful American barber’sAmerican classic with lithium Powerful barber’s classic with lithium • Upholstered padded arm restspadded arm rests • Upholstered ion technology and a thin profile blade ion technology and athat thin can profile blade that can • Integrated gown•rail Integrated gown rail be zero overlapped theoverlapped taper lever via for the close bevia zero taper lever for close • Belmont-branded foot rest with stopper. • Belmont-branded foot rest with stopper. cutting and precision fades. cutting and precision fades.
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YS PARK 365YS PARK 365 Gradual narrowingGradual of teethnarrowing pitch for of teeth pitch for control. Oval-shaped teethOval-shaped for more control. teeth for more effective colouring. effective colouring. White, Carbon Black. White, Carbon Black.
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The newest addition the addition to the Thetonewest Professional range, the Kobe Galaxy a long, Professional range,isthe Kobe Galaxy is a long, black scissor withblack swordscissor bladeswith for those swordwho blades for those who Lightweight and Lightweight and like a bit more power their cut.power in their cut. like in a bit more powerful with a powerful with a built-in built-in silencer and Razor sharp, convex blades areconvex handmade from Razor sharp, blades are handmade fromsilencer and “Air Ionizer Tech” ionic “Air Ionizer Tech” ionic the highest quality the Japanese high carbon 440C high carbon highest440C quality Japanese technology. technology. steel and feature ergonomic offset ergonomic handles andoffset handles steel and feature and finger-adjustable tension screw for tension ultimatescrew for ultimate finger-adjustable • Motor: 2250 watts • Motor: 2250 watts control and comfort. control and comfort. • Airflow: 84 m3/hr• Airflow: 84 m3/hr • Soft switches • Soft switches The Kobe Galaxy comes withGalaxy Kobe’scomes lifetimewith Kobe’s lifetime The Kobe • 2 speeds / 4 heat• settings 2 speeds / 4 heat settings manufacturing warranty and free warranty servicingand for free servicing manufacturing for • Cold shot button• Cold shot button two years. two years. • Colours: Matt Black, Matt Graphite, • Colours: Matt Black, Matt Graphite, Bronze and Blue. Bronze and Blue. Available in 6.5 orAvailable 7.0 inches. in 6.5 or 7.0 inches.
£149
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Tie me up, tie me down
DESIGNERS SUCH AS TOM FORD, ASHISH AND SIMONE ROCHA EMBELLISHED AND ADORNED HAIR TO STUNNING EFFECT ON THE CATWALKS THIS SEASON. SO TO CELEBRATE THE LAUNCH OF THE NEW TAYLOR TAYLOR LONDON SALON AT LIBERTY, LEAD CREATIVE STYLIST AND COLOUR DIRECTOR ZOË IRWIN – THE NEW 2018 MOST WANTED CREATIVE TALENT – HAS UNVEILED A CHIC COLLECTION OF DISTINCTIVE LOOKS THAT WEAVE IN ICONIC LIBERTY PRINTS AND SCARVES. TOTALLY PRINTS CHARMING… PHOTOGR APHY BY LIBERT Y PHOTOGR APHY TE AM CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR CREATIVE DIRECTION Zoë Irwin, Taylor Taylor London. STYLING Jenny Persson and Chie Sato. MAKE-UP Eoin Whelan. CLOTHES STYLING Octavia Coates using pieces from the current Liberty collection. MODELS Zoë from Named Models, Weini Haile, Annoushka Reger-Claremont, Jasmine Cleo, Sophie Ellen-Young
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THE GIRLS
YOUTHFUL AND FRESH, GIRL BY ADAM REED, PAUL PERCIVAL, ELLENORA DEAN AND THE PERCY & REED ART TEAM GETS PLAYFUL WITH COLOUR, PRECISION CUTTING AND RAZOR WORK
PHOTOGR APHY BY CAMERON MCNEE CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Adam Reed, Paul Percival, Ellenora Dean and the Percy & Reed Art Team. MAKE-UP Katie Moore
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L E A R N I N G C U R V E A STO R Y O F R E P E T I T I V E PAT T E R N S A N D F O R M S I N S P I R E D B Y SY M B I O S I S F O U N D I N N AT U R E, F R ACTA LS B Y S W E D E N ’ S A N N I E A N K E R V I K I S A C E L E B R AT I O N O F B R A I D I N G A LO N G S I D E S C I S S O R- OV E R- C O M B W O R K PHOTOGRAPHY BY LINDA ANDERSSON CREATIVE HEAD
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HAIR Annie Ankervik. MAKE-UP Lina Hasselgren. STYLING Sandra Ekenstam
Like a fine wine! Here’s to hoping we mature as well as this #gentleman has!
Out side the Nat ural Hist ory Mu seu m for #MWIT18
It List The Entrepreneur 2018! Can I put this next to my under- 9s player of the year trophy? #winn er #MW IT18
In the
Celebrating inside the Airstrea m #MW IT18
frame
Wit h Mo st Wa nted Best New Salo n win ner, @ky cutwilson
Phil Benton, founder of douce (@douceuk) and winner of The It List Entrepreneur 2018, snaps away SHOOT AND SEND Want to give us a snapshot of your world? Tweet us at @creativeheadmag now!
On IT V Ne ws ta lki ng about douce an d Th e It List!
Waves of envy about these locks
The #Prou dParents
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Meet the ultim ate mobile hair salon #dou ce
With brilliant barber @kevinluchm un
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